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Re: [TR] Original Paint

To: "'Brian Kemp'" <bk13@earthlink.net>, "'Jeff Scarbrough'" <fishplate@gmail.com>, "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Original Paint
From: "John Macartney" <john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk>
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2018 12:56:10 +0100
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Until about 1972, the paint used by Standard-Triumph was what the factory 
called a "High Bake Cellulose" and this was different to the conventional 
cellulose used in the late 1940's to early 1960's. From about 1972 onwards, the 
paint formula changed to a "High Bake Synthetic" (factory name) and was 
essentially water based. Pinchin and Johnson who made the stuff tried very hard 
to improve it over the next few years but this coincided with major industrial 
relations issues in the UK steel industry that affected supplies of raw 
materials to the car makers. German and French steel was too expensive and the 
bean counters opted for Italian steel that was significantly cheaper and soon 
manifested its poor quality and tendency for premature rusting. Although I no 
longer have a classic car myself, if I was in the market for one, it would be 
pre-1972 manufacture and with High Bake Cellulose paint and my former Triumph 
2000 saloon and 2.5PI saloon both came into that category.
As for cleaning, I'd recommend a typical cleaner to lift off the accumulated 
filth and wax, then use a claybar to shift the rest and finally follow up with 
a high quality carnauba wax. Just be careful with the vigour you use with the 
cleaner and claybar as that paint top coat is very thin and you might suddenly 
encounter a piece of shiny steel with FIAT written on itð???

Jonmac

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Brian Kemp
Sent: 18 September 2018 06:28
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>; Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net) 
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Original Paint

I used a three step process from cleaner, polish, then wax from Meguiars.  I 
didn't see the product on their website, so maybe it is gone.  The cleaner was 
lots of work.  A few years later, I discovered clay bars to remove some over 
spray.  The clay process made the finish like glass.  I highly recommend a clay 
bar as part of the process.

Brian

On 9/17/2018 3:51 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> So, I'm the proud owner of a 1975 TR6 and a 1976 Spitfire that have 
> the original paint.  (I'm sure of the TR6, and if the Spitfire's had a 
> respray, it was as good as the factory).
>
> I'd like to preserve the finish as best I can.  The TR6 is in pretty 
> good shape, but the Spitfire (with an alleged 35,000 miles) was well 
> taken care of until it was parked (indoors, I'm sure), maybe ten or 
> fifteen years ago.
>
> Thus, the questions:
>
> 1.  What kind of paint was used on these cars when new?
>
> 2.  What's the best way to clean off the old wax, schmutz, etc., and 
> start from scratch to put a good protective coat on them?
>
> 3.  What's the best kind of paint to use for minor touch-ups, or for 
> selected areas (the top of the scuttle on the Spitfire, for instance 
> [if scuttle is the right word for the panel on which the brake and 
> clutch cylinders sit])
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga. -- now with less corrosion!
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