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Quick recap: TR3 was running smooth, then fluttering for several runs, then
the fluttering turned into stalling, but all intermittent. Couple of times
during the trouble-shooting, attempts to start the engine met with a solid
clunk and nothing more.
What I found:
1) Couple of years ago, the carburetor linkage dropped and shorted the starter
hot cable to ground. Completely melted through the linkage rod. After
replacing just the linkage, car started and ran fine. Looking deeper this
week, though, I saw that the insulator between the positive cable and the
starter had cooked. I don't think that it was malfunctioning because there
were no sparks or battery drain, but I did put a thick rubber washer under the
cable to the starter.
2) The ground wire on the distributor plate had frayed so just a few strands
were holding it on. Replaced that. I'm assuming it affected the strength of
spark.
3) I've never encountered this and can't explain it. My carbs are brand new
rebuilds from a famous company. Doesn't matter who. I'd had them do that
several years ago, then simply stored the carbs in the garage without opening
the box because I wanted a replacement set ready for when the ones I ran
started sucking air at the throttle shafts. I'd put these on the car because
the originals were leaking. When I was diagnosing the intermittent engine
failure, per Randall's suggestion and others I sprayed carburetor cleaner into
the intake ports and the car started (briefly). I could now rule out spark.
And I tested and knew I was getting gas.
I took the rebuilt carbs apart, checked float levels and all that. All good.
Then, with the float bowls completely off the carb, I blew through the fuel
inlets. The second carb closest to the firewall tested good, with air going
through. The initial carb, though, has some kind of blockage. Nothing was
getting through. With the float chamber lid off, the same test came out good,
so the float needle valve was working. The issue, then was some blockage in
the float bowl mounting bolt, the one with the hole that lets gas feed the jet
assembly (remember, the bowl is off the carb). I tried taking the float bowl
mounting bolt out, but it's froze solid (again, this was a professional
rebuild). I haven't taken the time to seriously break it down yet.
In the end, I simply replaced the whole float bowl with one from the original
carb, reinstalled everything, and the car is back on the road running again
smoothly and with power. What I can't figure out is how a bowl mounting bolt
could get blockage when the orifice for the float needle valve is so much
smaller, unless some detritus was left behind in the float bowl during the
professional rebuild.
No knock on the rebuilder, though. They did some heroics for me in the past.
Thanks, everyone, for your help with all this.
Terry
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<html><head>
<meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sa=
ns-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Quick recap:  TR3 was running smoot=
h, then fluttering for several runs, then the fluttering turned into stalli=
ng, but all intermittent.  Couple of times during the trouble-shooting=
, attempts to start the engine met with a solid clunk and nothing more.=
0; </p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, san=
s-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font=
-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">What I foun=
d:</p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-seri=
f; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-famil=
y: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">1)  Couple o=
f years ago, the carburetor linkage dropped and shorted the starter hot cab=
le to ground.  Completely melted through the linkage rod.  After =
replacing just the linkage, car started and ran fine.  Looking deeper =
this week, though, I saw that the insulator between the positive cable and =
the starter had cooked.  I don't think that it was malfunctioning =
because there were no sparks or battery drain, but I did put a thick rubber=
washer under the cable to the starter.  </p><p style=3D"font-siz=
e: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);=
"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-=
serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">2)  The ground wire on the distributor=
plate had frayed so just a few strands were holding it on.  Replaced =
that.  I'm assuming it affected the strength of spark.</p><p style=
=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(=
51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, =
arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">3)  I've never encount=
ered this and can't explain it.  My carbs are brand new rebuilds f=
rom a famous company.  Doesn't matter who.  I'd had them =
do that several years ago, then simply stored the carbs in the garage witho=
ut opening the box because I wanted a replacement set ready for when the on=
es I ran started sucking air at the throttle shafts.  I'd put thes=
e on the car because the originals were leaking.  When I was diagnosin=
g the intermittent engine failure, per Randall's suggestion and others =
I sprayed carburetor cleaner into the intake ports and the car started (bri=
efly).  I could now rule out spark.  And I tested and knew I was =
getting gas.  </p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,=
arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size:=
12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">=
I took the rebuilt carbs apart, checked float levels and all that.  Al=
l good.  Then, with the float bowls completely off the carb, I blew th=
rough the fuel inlets.  The second carb closest to the firewall tested=
good, with air going through.  The initial carb, though, has some kin=
d of blockage.  Nothing was getting through.  With the float cham=
ber lid off, the same test came out good, so the float needle valve was wor=
king.  The issue, then was some blockage in the float bowl mounting bo=
lt, the one with the hole that lets gas feed the jet assembly (remember, th=
e bowl is off the carb).  I tried taking the float bowl mounting bolt =
out, but it's froze solid (again, this was a professional rebuild).=
0; I haven't taken the time to seriously break it down yet.  =
</p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;=
color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family:=
helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">In the end, I simpl=
y replaced the whole float bowl with one from the original carb, reinstalle=
d everything, and the car is back on the road running again smoothly and wi=
th power.   What I can't figure out is how a bowl mounting bo=
lt could get blockage when the orifice for the float needle valve is so muc=
h smaller, unless some detritus was left behind in the float bowl during th=
e professional rebuild.  </p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-fa=
mily: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p sty=
le=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rg=
b(51, 51, 51);">No knock on the rebuilder, though.  They did some hero=
ics for me in the past.  </p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-fa=
mily: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p sty=
le=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rg=
b(51, 51, 51);">Thanks, everyone, for your help with all this.</p><p style=
=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(=
51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, =
arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Terry</p></body></html>
=20
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