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Which springs are you talking about? There's a compression spring on the je=
t housing that just keeps the mixture but from moving=2E And an extension s=
pring to the side that returns the jets to the non-choke position after usi=
ng the choke=2E
People use the term "vapor lock" to cover a lot of different actual proble=
ms=2E True vapor lock (IMO) is when the fuel boils before reaching the fuel=
pump (or inside the pump)=2E The pump is not effective at moving vapor (he=
nce quits pumping and becomes vapor locked)=2E
I've never seen that on a TR=2E And rerouting the line after the pump woul=
dn't help if that was the problem=2E
Your problem sounds more like percolation, where fuel boils in the jets an=
d pushes liquid fuel out into the carb throats=2E (Like an old fashioned co=
ffee percolator=2E) If so, anything that helps keep the jets cooler will he=
lp=2E
I might try rerouting the fuel line to the stock location, under the therm=
ostat housing (where its cooler); and adding more insulation to the heat sh=
ield=2E
Not sure why the fan is "cheating"; the problem is caused because we can't=
buy " summer" gas any more=2E Any method to adapt to available fuel seems =
valid to me=2E (My intention, if I ever get back to that point, is to make =
the electric fan keep running for 5 or 10 minutes after shutdown=2E)
A vacuum leak would make it start easier with the choke=2E Have you tried =
that?
-- Randall
On 5 July 2019 16:43:31 GMT-05:00, TERRY SMITH <terryrs@comcast=2Enet> wro=
te:
>Spark issue is solved (bad electronic ignition)=2E Resulting overheating
>problem is solved (timing/mixture issue)=2E Yet driving an hour in
>today's heat, the temp needle stayed normal, but the car was a trifle
>slow to start when I got back to it=2E Put the pedal all the way down
>and it fired up, but engine fluttered at low RPM's until I'd reved it
>for a short time=2E Sounds like classic vapor lock=2E Afterwards, the c=
ar
>runs smooth and with great power and acceleration, except idle moves a
>bit up and down and engine stumbles sometimes at low RPM=2E When I got
>home I pulled the plugs and found no black, so apparently I'm not
>running too rich=2E Two questions:
>
>
>One: the obvious=2E Pulling the air cleaners off, I found I'd forgotten
>to put the springs back on that hold the jet assembly to the carb=2E=20
>Duh=2E So what are the symptoms of that, other than low scores on IQ
>tests?
>
>
>Two: the probably obvious=2E I'd rerouted the fuel lines under the
>hood=2E They now go over the thermostat area=2E I've encased the tubing
>in slitted fuel line to give them some insulation, but it hasn't solved
>what seems to be vapor lock=2E I do have the aftermarket insulative
>plate under the carbs to bank heat off the manifold=2E I have a fan I
>could install that might bring the temp down after engine shutdown but
>that seems a cheating type fix=2E
>
>
>Three: the awful=2E It could be a vacuum leak, I suppose=2E Please,
>nobody suggest it is because then it might be true=2E=2E=2E=2Eugh=2E
>
>
>Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>
>New Hampshire
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<!doctype html><html><head>
<meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body>Which springs are you talking about? There's a compression sp=
ring on the jet housing that just keeps the mixture but from moving=2E And =
an extension spring to the side that returns the jets to the non-choke posi=
tion after using the choke=2E<br><br>People use the term "vapor lock" to co=
ver a lot of different actual problems=2E True vapor lock (IMO) is when the=
fuel boils before reaching the fuel pump (or inside the pump)=2E The pump =
is not effective at moving vapor (hence quits pumping and becomes vapor loc=
ked)=2E<br>I've never seen that on a TR=2E And rerouting the line after the=
pump wouldn't help if that was the problem=2E<br><br>Your problem sounds m=
ore like percolation, where fuel boils in the jets and pushes liquid fuel o=
ut into the carb throats=2E (Like an old fashioned coffee percolator=2E) If=
so, anything that helps keep the jets cooler will help=2E<br><br>I might t=
ry rerouting the fuel line to the stock location, under the thermostat hous=
ing (where its cooler); and adding more insulation to the heat shield=2E<br=
><br>Not sure why the fan is "cheating"; the problem is caused because we c=
an't buy " summer" gas any more=2E Any method to adapt to available fuel se=
ems valid to me=2E (My intention, if I ever get back to that point, is to m=
ake the electric fan keep running for 5 or 10 minutes after shutdown=2E)<br=
><br>A vacuum leak would make it start easier with the choke=2E Have you tr=
ied that?<br>-- Randall<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On 5 July 2019 16=
:43:31 GMT-05:00, TERRY SMITH <terryrs@comcast=2Enet> wrote:<blockquo=
te class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0=2E8ex; border-left:=
1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;">
<p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; colo=
r: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Spark issue is solved (bad electronic ignition)=2E&nbs=
p; Resulting overheating problem is solved (timing/mixture issue)=2E =
Yet driving an hour in today's heat, the temp needle stayed normal, but the=
car was a trifle slow to start when I got back to it=2E Put the peda=
l all the way down and it fired up, but engine fluttered at low RPM's until=
I'd reved it for a short time=2E Sounds like classic vapor lock=2E&n=
bsp; Afterwards, the car runs smooth and with great power and acceleration,=
except idle moves a bit up and down and engine stumbles sometimes at low R=
PM=2E When I got home I pulled the plugs and found no black, so appar=
ently I'm not running too rich=2E Two questions:</p><p style=3D"font-=
size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51)=
;"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-s=
erif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">One: the obvious=2E Pulling the =
air cleaners off, I found I'd forgotten to put the springs back on that hol=
d the jet assembly to the carb=2E Duh=2E So what are the sympto=
ms of that, other than low scores on IQ tests?<br></p><p style=3D"font-size=
: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><=
br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif=
; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Two: the probably obvious=2E I'd rer=
outed the fuel lines under the hood=2E They now go over the thermosta=
t area=2E I've encased the tubing in slitted fuel line to give them s=
ome insulation, but it hasn't solved what seems to be vapor lock=2E I=
do have the aftermarket insulative plate under the carbs to bank heat off =
the manifold=2E I have a fan I could install that might bring the tem=
p down after engine shutdown but that seems a cheating type fix=2E<br></p><=
p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color:=
rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvet=
ica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Three: the awful=2E&nb=
sp; It could be a vacuum leak, I suppose=2E Please, nobody suggest it=
is because then it might be true=2E=2E=2E=2Eugh=2E<br></p><p style=3D"font=
-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51=
);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-=
serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Terry Smith, '59 TR3A<br></p><p style=3D"fo=
nt-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, =
51);">New Hampshire<br></p>
</blockquote></div></body></html>
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