Just a note: I have made the mistake during earlier rebuilds of not using a
succession of half-inch sockets bolted down over the sleeves to ensure each
side of the cylinder has compressed the figure 8 gasket to allow the sleeve to
be .003 proud of the head surface. Invariably I blew head gaskets (okay,
partially because I drive in what Listers describe as a "spirited" fashion).
Since learning my lesson, I've blown nary a one.
Since you're at this point, just thought I'd mention.
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667
> On 07/21/2020 6:05 PM Tony Drews <email@example.com> wrote:
> Smooth side goes up.
> It's better if the gasket doesn't protrude, hard to do if the head has
> been milled at all.
> I've not messed with the water holes, no firm answer on that one.Â If
> the edge of those is rolled over I'd leave alone, if it exposes the
> composite part of the gasket it's OK to open up a bit.
> On 7/21/2020 4:57 PM, bill beecher wrote:
> > Reassembling the TR3 motor for the old Morgan and I am dry fitting the head
> > gasket. Two questions:
> > 1. Which side goes up, smooth or the rolled over side?
> > 2. On a couple cylinders the gasket protrudes into the bore by about 1mm,
> > is this OK?
> > 3. At the front the holes in the gasket do not match exactly with the water
> > passage, is it OK to open those up just a bit? (The back aligns perfectly)
> > Thanks,
> > Bill B
> > TS74313E
> > #dontkillgrandma
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