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I just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison, =
Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the shocks. You can specify if you w=
ant the original dampening, or several levels of higher dampening. Plus, th=
ey always machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then install a=
lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I sent them my shocks and=
it took two weeks to get them back. I think that I paid $130 per shock.=C2=
=A0
=C2=A0AlexL=C2=A0=C2=A0
In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, gene@garriso=
n-grafixx.com writes:=C2=A0
Ouch!=C2=A0Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I wan=
t to recommend what I (eventually) did.=C2=A0Back in the 80s, I had a probl=
em with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".=C2=A0 I=
put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see any cracks.=C2=A0=
But it always worried me.=C2=A0 Then, a few years back, I started hearing =
about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?=C2=
=A0 Could look it up when I get home.)=C2=A0 And I figured I'd give it a tr=
y.=C2=A0 And I'm very, very happy with the results.=C2=A0Just a thought for=
when you get to that point.=C2=A0- GeneG=C2=A0On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37=
PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 =
TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to so=
rt it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the sp=
are tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finall=
y gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the t=
ire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market sh=
ock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog=
and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if thi=
s shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of =
decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member.=
It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone throu=
gh this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.=C2=A0That crack=
shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. =
I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig =
welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the=
proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder w=
ould be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed =
that way?=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
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=C2=A0**=C2=A0triumphs@autox.team.net **=C2=A0Donate:=C2=A0http://www.team.=
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x.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gene@garrison-grafixx.com=C2=A0=C2=A0At=
tachments: =20
- TR6 broken support.JPG
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
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<div>
<div class="userEdit" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);
font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;">I just had my TR3A rear shocks
rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job
on the shocks. You can specify if you want the original dampening, or several
levels of higher dampening. Plus, they always machine the opening for the shock
lever shaft, and then install a lip seal that will keep the shocks from
leaking. I sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them back. I think
that I paid $130 per shock. <br></span></div>
<div class="userEdit" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"> </div>
<div class="userEdit" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);
font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;">AlexL</span></div>
<div class="userEdit" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"> </div>
<div class="userEdit" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"> </div>
<br>In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
gene@garrison-grafixx.com writes:
<div> </div>
<div class="quotedReply">
<blockquote style="padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; border-left: blue 2px
solid;">
<div id="yiv4969733073">
<div>
<div>Ouch!</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to
recommend what I (eventually) did.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear
shocks not "shocking". I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to
never see any cracks. But it always worried me. Then, a few years
back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks
(Apple Hydraulics? Could look it up when I get home.) And I figured
I'd give it a try. And I'm very, very happy with the results.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Just a thought for when you get to that point.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>- GeneG</div>
<div> </div>
<div id="yiv4969733073yqtfd14763" class="yiv4969733073yqt9886534496">
<div>On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:</div>
<blockquote id="yiv4969733073qt">
<div>I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974
TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort
it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare
tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave
up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw
that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount
adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that
cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount
replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a
bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that
there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me
just how a fix should be attempted.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>
<div>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the
cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I
have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't
like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro
welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be
fixed that way?</div>
<div> </div>
<div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="yiv4969733073qt-DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
<div> </div>
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<div><strong>Attachments:</strong></div>
<ul>
<li>TR6 broken support.JPG</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<div> </div>
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