Subject: [6pack] Engine Rebuild Guidelines.

From: Glenn Franco <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2013 12:30:06 -0500

Bob
I'll keep it simple
I have had much success with the 150hp new cam from British Parts 
Northwest. I have rebuilt 4 of these in the last 18 months and they 
perform well with that cam and the Zenith Stromberg Carbs.
You will find that the cam lobes are wiped on your original cam anyways 
and the lifters will be junk.
Of course you need to replace the lifters.
An added benefit is to have .100 milled off of the head which will get 
you close to ~ 9:1 compression ratio.
If you do that you will need a bit shorter push rods that you can get 
from the same source.
No need for cam bearings unless you have money to burn.
Make sure you have a reputable source bore and hone the cylinders at 
least .020" over and check your ring gaps and piston clearance before 
assembly.
Use Rotella 15w40 for your break in.
Inspect your new parts carefully as I have had bad pistons and bearings 
come in from County. Even the Tri metals were bad.
Have fun
Glenn

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Message: 1 Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 22:08:26 +0000 From: Bob Rochlin 
<[email-masked]> To: "[email-masked]" 
<[email-masked]>, Truiumphs <[email-masked]> Subject: 
[6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild Message-ID: 
<[email-masked]> Content-Type: text/plain; 
charset="us-ascii" Hi List, I'm contemplating rebuilding the engine of 
my 72' TR6 this winter. I am hoping the collective experience of the 
list can give me some guidance as to some of the decisions I'll have to 
make. I'm thinking of getting a cam just a little hotter then stock and 
shaving the head just a bit. I've been very happy with the performance 
of the original ZS carburetors and wonder of they are able to supply the 
increased fuel demands of the new set up. As far as I understand the 
jets are fixed. Speaking of cams, how necessary are cam bearings? Should 
I have them installed while I'm doing the rebuild? The engine runs very 
well, but bit doggie. I don't think that it's ever had any machine shop 
work done. I did a compression test about a year ago. The results were 
low of 85, hight of 120. A leak down test confirmed that almost all the 
lost compression was through the rings. The car burns almost no oil (it 
just leaks out a little) what other components should I replace as a 
matter of course during the rebuild? Anything I should look out for? I 
am long forward to hearing your advice. Take care. Bob

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From: "Dave" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 12:51:56 -0600

probably a good idea to have the block magnafluxed to look for cracks

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From: "Dave" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 12:51:56 -0600

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From: "Greg Lemon" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 18:41:37 -0600

And magnaflux the head, I had started the build on my  "factory experimental 
test head" that I had ported out (really my first experiment with hogging 
out the ports on my head) and when I took it to the machine shop they found 
cracks in a couple places between the exhaust and intake valves, I guess a 
somewhat common occurrence.  Greg Lemon

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From: "Dave" <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, November 4, 2013 12:51 PM
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine Rebuild Guidelines.

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