Subject: [6pack] Carb tuning

From: James_ <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 10:36:24 -0700

Update. 
Finally found time to play with the carbs. 
They stall out when lifting the damper. So I my the needle richer. 
(1976 carbs)
The sync tool measures very different between the carbs. High number on the rear and lower on the front. 
That has always been an issue to get a proper reading exact between the two. 
The idle screw is very close to being out on the rear to help decrease the sync number. 
I have replaced throttle shafts and bushings on the carbs but I wonder if I have an air leak somewhere. 
Should I spray carb cleaner in spots to check for leaks. I seem to recall something like that to check. 

Idle is actually quite high. About 1300. Otherwise it feels like it wants to stall out. Ugh. 
Maybe I just find a place in Portland to have someone check this thing out. And tune it up for me. 
Going mad chasing the demons. 

bSent from my Atari 2600b
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2014 09:43:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] totally off topic   well, sort of

can anyone recommend a camera that I can mount easily, move from one car to
another, that I can set to take a pictures say every 10 minutes, and how hard
is it to put those pictures together into a bfilmb chronicling a car
trip?

in october I'm going to the 6 pack event in mississippi.  Ibd like to
mount it in the tow beast, then move it to the triumph.  then have a film of
my adventure.  and right now my son is on his way to yellowstone.  Ibd love
to have a film of his adventure.

>From [email-masked]
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2014 12:42:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] totally off topic   well, sort of

>From [email-masked]
From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2014 12:53:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A grab handle

I am working on a TR4A project.  The passenger lower crash pad did not come
with the car.  So I bought one.  I went to fit it up and it looks like there
is a grab handle under the glove box on a TR4A.  I don't have that grab
handle.  Would anybody have one they would be willing to sell?

Creig Houghtaling
St. Louis, MO 
314 401 7817

>From [email-masked]
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2014 13:01:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] totally off topic   well, sort of
References: <[email-masked]>

Grr.  Let my try that again copy / pasting
through notepad to avoid any extra formatting...

Go-pro.  Does exactly what you're describing,
many mounting options, not horribly expensive.

One of my coworkers made this video on a day trip:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22mjF222qv0
How it was made
About 1600 pictures
4 video recordings
2 GoPro cameras (1 mounted inside the Mini, 1
mounted to the outside of the Mini)

Tony Drews

At 09:43 AM 8/2/2014, dave n wrote:
>can anyone recommend a camera that I can mount easily, move from one car to
>another, that I can set to take a pictures say every 10 minutes, and how
hard
>is it to put those pictures together into a bfilmbchronicling a car
>trip?
>
>in october Ibm going to the 6 pack event in mississippi.  Ibd like to
>mount it in the tow beast, then move it to the triumph.  then have a film of
>my adventure.  and right now my son is on his way to yellowstone.  Ibd love
>to have a film of his adventure.

>From [email-masked]
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2014 18:59:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Stock Valve Guide clearance?

What is the stock valve guide clearance for cast iron valve guides for a 1296
Spitfire? My manual seems to forgotten that detail. Goggle didnt help.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

>From [email-masked]
From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 13:49:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A grab handle metal substructure needed

I talked to a friend who can fabricate a replacement metal substructure for
me.  But if anyone on this list would know where I can find a used one to
buy, that would probably be much easier.

From: Will Daehler [mailto:will.daehler at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2014 9:07 PM
To: creig555 at live.com
Subject: TR4A grab handle

Creig

There is a piece of complex and curved sheet metal that is screwed onto
inside the padded and vinyl portion of that grab handle.

It is NLS.

Look for a TR4 that is being parted out, take the donor handle and remove
the sheet metal piece and transfer it to the newer grab handle. 

Will Daehler

63 TR4 

>From [email-masked]
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 15:59:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] More OD (electrical?) Woes

     So I have the trans tunnel off of the TR3A. When you throw the OD switch,
nothing happens. I put a test light at the bullet connector to the solenoid
and get a light. My multimeter is dead and I am heading into town now to get a
9V battery to get it going again so I can measure voltage going to the
solenoid.
     I tried a battery charger on the solenoid on the workbench and
it seemed to actuate well.
     I tried the battery charger test on the
solenoid installed in the car and it didn't move.
     The circuit to the
solenoid has a fuse that blew somewhere in my testing. I changed out the 20
amp fuse. It worked with the old solenoid as installed for about 15 years.
   
 The car has had a dead battery several times in the last month. Coincidence?
Not sure what is going on there.
     My TRF repro OD switch is a little
finicky and I have had to wiggle it side to side to get the OD to engage in
the past. It is still that way.
     The trans and OD are topped off with oil.
     I tried the solenoid that came with the professionally rebuilt trans. It
worked for about 500 miles and then the OD didn't engage anymore. I tried the
solenoid that was in my last trans (that I changed out because it was
rattling). It was working when I took it out, but now it doesn't work in the
car.

      It is almost like the solenoid grounding path isn't complete. I
have a woven grounding strap from the engine front plate to the frame. That
should be good enough. Maybe I am not getting enough voltage to the solenoid
when installed in the car, although my battery test should have taken care of
that.

     Any ideas?

     Bill Brewer - Tehachapi

>From [email-masked]
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 19:46:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] More OD (electrical?) Woes
References: <[email-masked]>

Bill,

You need to eliminate the relay as the problem. Did you do the Dan Masters
check list?

Bypass the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly the
yellow/purple on the relay to see if the solenoid engages. If it does then the
relay is most likely bad.

Burned contacts on a relay will allow the right voltage to the bullet on the
solenoid and all seems well but burned contacts dont send enough current
(amps) to the solenoid to energize the pulling coil in the solenoid.

Steve Yott (see below) explained it to me when I had a bad solenoid. Also
check the wires on the OD switch, the wires can appear to be attached but see
if they wiggle, hence

> This is normally caused by a bad relay.  When the contacts as burned you
> will see the voltage appearing on the wire you are talking about but not
> enough current can pass through the contacts to supply the 20 amps needed
to
> induce the solenoid to engage, once actuated it should then drop to a 2 amp
> current draw.
>
> What it boils down to is that resistance (burned contact) will read the
> voltage through the connection but not allow enough current to pass.
>
> Steve Yott

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 08:35:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] More OD (electrical?) Woes

>      So I have the trans tunnel off of the TR3A. When you 
> throw the OD switch,
> nothing happens. I put a test light at the bullet connector 
> to the solenoid
> and get a light.

Was that with the solenoid still connected?

>      I tried a battery charger on the solenoid on the workbench and
> it seemed to actuate well.
>      I tried the battery charger test on the
> solenoid installed in the car and it didn't move.

Sounds like a classic case of the pull-in coil not working.  The holding coil will move the plunger, as long as it isn't connected
to anything.

>      The circuit to the
> solenoid has a fuse that blew somewhere in my testing. I 
> changed out the 20
> amp fuse. 

However, that sounds like the opposite problem; the solenoid wasn't able to move for some mechanical reason and the pull-in coil
blew the fuse.  Have you checked that it moves by hand when installed?

>  The car has had a dead battery several times in the last 
> month. Coincidence?

Most likely; but I suppose it could indicate a relay problem.  I'd tackle the OD problem first though, then check for leaks once
that it solved.

>      Any ideas?

Now that you've got your DMM going, check the voltage right at the solenoid, with the solenoid still connected.  Press on the
'adjustment' lever on the opposite side, to make sure the solenoid can move.  If it has 12v applied and doesn't move (but can move),
then the solenoid is bad even if it was good before.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner)
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2014 19:48:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] early TR door pull finisher
References: <[email-masked]>

I have a '56 small mouth TR and am looking for two of the door pull 
finishers.  None of the big 3 have it available.  Does anyone have a source 
for one or a similar item that could be used?  Not going for concours but 
would like to stay close to original.
TIA
Pete 

>From [email-masked]
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 17:01:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] early TR door pull finisher
References: <[email-masked]>
 <anpM1o0020NyJgq01npN4P>

Home depot sells some sort of 'sash cord' that is a dead ringer for the TR
pull cable. 

 I got some in a bag with one of my project cars.  I believe that they have
little chrome finishing ends for it.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

>From [email-masked]
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 20:20:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] early TR door pull finisher

I have a  '56 small mouth TR and am looking for two of the door pull  
finishers.

Pete:
Send a note to Mark Macy.  He just might have a pair for  you or he will 
send you in the right direction.  _mark at macysgarage.com_ 
(mailto:mark at macysgarage.com) 
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

>From [email-masked]
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2014 05:21:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] early TR door pull finisher
References: <[email-masked]>
 <15F339EF5EE440638EBE48A2FFD52A6F@HomePC>

Macy's web site lists the door strap kit:

http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/other_tr2_3_parts.htm#TR2/3%20Door%20Latch%20Pull%20Straps

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

1957 Triumph TR3
1961 Jaguar Mark 2
1975 Triumph TR6
1997 Land Rover Discovery

>From [email-masked]
From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2014 07:19:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] early TR door pull finisher
References: <[email-masked]>
 <15F339EF5EE440638EBE48A2FFD52A6F@HomePC> <[email-masked]>

Thanks all for the link to Macys Garage.
Pete

>From [email-masked]
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 10:21:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR6 front suspension

I'm trying to do an analysis of the front suspension dimensional
differences between the early TR4 cars and the TR4A and later cars.

Below are some assumptions that I've made:

The lower a-arms are the same from tr4 thru tr6. The upper a-arms are the
same from later tr4 thru tr6. The vertical links are dimensionally the same
except for camber/castor angle changes. I'm pretty sure the lower spring
pans are the same with probably only slight differences but I believe the
basic dimensions are the same. The upper fulcrums are the same just the
orientation changes between tr4 and later tr4 thru tr6.

Since the vertical links are the same overall length that should mean the
distance between the upper fulcrum pivot point and the lower a-arm pivot
point (on the frame) should be the same for all models. With all of that
being said that tells me the installed spring height from the lower spring
pan seat to the upper spring seat should be the same for all models.

I'm betting the overall front end weight is pretty close between the 4 and
6 cylinder cars as I've read that the stock spring rate between 4s and 250s
is only about 2 pounds (310 vs 312)

So my unless I'm missing something then springs that are 10.1 inches tall
from a tr250 should fit in a tr4 that originally had 9-3/4" springs and a
1-1/4" packing piece. In other words the 10.1" springs (and no packing
piece) should be a direct swap for the 9-3/4" spring it its associated
1-1/4" packing piece.

Anyone see any holes in my logic?

Thanks!

Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2014 12:11:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR6 front suspension
 mail.com>
References: <CADm3DLF6+pfaG14bBjA9+cFxqHkb+QzsMdHW65=[email-masked]>

Lower A-Arms changed between the TR-4 (with 3 degrees of castor) and 
the TR-6 (with 3 degrees of castor), possibly when they went to the 
TR-4A IRS with the adjustable lower A-arm brackets.  Vertical link 
changed between the TR-4 and TR-250 / TR-6 - went from studs sticking 
out of the lower trunnion to one with a bolt through the lower 
trunnion.  The lower trunnion width changed with that, the "screw" 
that goes into the trunnion is larger diameter and shorter in the 
TR-6, and the location of the bolt / pivot changed in a way that 
lowers the car.

Spring pans are the same.

http://www.tonydrews.com/Front_Suspension/tr4_front_suspension_upgrade.htm

But, the springs will fit, but will be a bit shorter than the 
original if I'm doing my math right:
9.75 + 1.25 = 11"
vs
10.1"

Tony

At 09:21 AM 8/5/2014, Brad Kahler wrote:
>I'm trying to do an analysis of the front suspension dimensional
>differences between the early TR4 cars and the TR4A and later cars.
>
>Below are some assumptions that I've made:
>
>The lower a-arms are the same from tr4 thru tr6. The upper a-arms are the
>same from later tr4 thru tr6. The vertical links are dimensionally the same
>except for camber/castor angle changes. I'm pretty sure the lower spring
>pans are the same with probably only slight differences but I believe the
>basic dimensions are the same. The upper fulcrums are the same just the
>orientation changes between tr4 and later tr4 thru tr6.
>
>Since the vertical links are the same overall length that should mean the
>distance between the upper fulcrum pivot point and the lower a-arm pivot
>point (on the frame) should be the same for all models. With all of that
>being said that tells me the installed spring height from the lower spring
>pan seat to the upper spring seat should be the same for all models.
>
>I'm betting the overall front end weight is pretty close between the 4 and
>6 cylinder cars as I've read that the stock spring rate between 4s and 250s
>is only about 2 pounds (310 vs 312)
>
>So my unless I'm missing something then springs that are 10.1 inches tall
>from a tr250 should fit in a tr4 that originally had 9-3/4" springs and a
>1-1/4" packing piece. In other words the 10.1" springs (and no packing
>piece) should be a direct swap for the 9-3/4" spring it its associated
>1-1/4" packing piece.
>
>Anyone see any holes in my logic?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Brad
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

>From [email-masked]
From: wbrazinski at hotmail.com (Wayne Brazinski)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 12:34:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update

Hi all!,Some of you might remember me from way, way back when I announced
that I was planning a to work on a V8 conversion of my TR3.  Well - after a
decade (life got in the way!) I finally have a working vehicle and you can see
a high level overview on YouTube at the link below.  I know that I have
modified the car and that this goes against some of your beliefs. I really
apologize for this - the car did not have matching engine and chassis numbers
so I didn't alter an as-is vehicle, and hope that makes things a little
better.
I have 500 miles on the car in all sorts of weather - so far no overheats with
the 302.
If any of you are interested in a bolt by bolt description I'll happily put
one together for you.

http://youtu.be/MYk4eFVzY9I
Regards,
Wayne

>From [email-masked]
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 16:08:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update
References: <[email-masked]>

Hi Wayne, 
 
I'd be the first to defend your right to modify your car as you
see fit! 
 
But, word of advice.... The "non-matching numbers" excuse won't
fly with anyone who knows anything about Triumphs. 
 
Unlike some other
manufacturers, Triumph made no effort to match the numbers. They simply stuck
whatever gearbox was handy onto whatever engine was at the front of the line,
then stuck them into whatever chassis was waiting, then plopped whatever body
was next in line onto the waiting assembly. Numbers on a single car are
typically are off by hundreds, in some cases thousands. So your car actually
might have had all the original bits. The only way to tell is to get one of
the British Motor Heritage build certificates, which lists all the numbers,
plus original paint and trim colors, factory-supplied accessories (if any), as
well as the date and port of dispatch, the ship the car sailed upon, and the
eventual destination port.

My TR4 has more than a few "improvements". It came
to me already with a lot of mods for auto crossing, when I bought it in the
late 1970s.  It was painted "Porsche Orange", too!  It got resprayed fairly
quickly, though I painted it red, rather than the original Spa White. The
Shadow Blue interior had been dyed black and it wasn't until some years later
that I discovered it had Datsun 240Z carbs on it (didn't matter... I'd
converted to Weber DCOE 40s anyway). 

And I've always wanted to get a TR6 and
drop a Rover V8 in it... Then take the TR6 engine to build a TR5 PI from a
TR4A, but using modern Weber fuel injection.  

Always thought it would be fun
to build up a GT6 Mark III too... though I'd probably stick with an inline
6-cyl.

I've also got a TR4 frame set aside to build a TR3A "Beta"
sometime.... which is a wider stance version of the TR3A that only existed in
a couple prototypes. Triumph considered it as a replacement model, but
produced the TR4 instead. The TR3B is a different animal than the Beta. It's
more of a continuation of the TR3 line that was made concurrently with the
early TR4s, for the traditionalists who objected to fancy things like roll-up
windows. 

Wouldn't mind a building a TRS replica, too... Though probably with
a TR4 engine and gearbox, and maybe a supercharger. 

An Italia is one car I'd
keep absolutely showroom original, if I ever owned one. IMO, it's impossible
to improve upon the Italia! 

Oh well... too many cars, not enough money or
garage spaces! 

Alan Myers 
San Jose, Calif.
amfoto1 at aol.com
'62 TR4
CT17602L (with more than it's share of mods) www.triuimphowners.com/640
Triumphest 2009:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/amfoto1/collections/72157626673107235/

>From [email-masked]
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 16:30:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR6 front suspension
References: <CADm3DLF6+pfaG14bBjA9+cFxqHkb+QzsMdHW65=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Tony, thanks for the info!

The key would appear to be the location of the old style trunnion studs
compared to the trunnion bolt on the later cars.  I have both style of
trunnions on hand so I'll give them a closer look this evening to see just
how much difference there really is.  From what documentation that I have
found it seems that the installed spring height is supposed to be the same
on all models, i.e. 6-3/4" (or was it 6-1/2"!)  Either way from bottom
spring pan to upper spring seat the distance is hopefully the same.

Should be interesting once I install the springs this weekend.

Thanks!

Brad

On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 1:11 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Lower A-Arms changed between the TR-4 (with 3 degrees of castor) and the
> TR-6 (with 3 degrees of castor), possibly when they went to the TR-4A IRS
> with the adjustable lower A-arm brackets.  Vertical link changed between
> the TR-4 and TR-250 / TR-6 - went from studs sticking out of the lower
> trunnion to one with a bolt through the lower trunnion.  The lower trunnion
> width changed with that, the "screw" that goes into the trunnion is larger
> diameter and shorter in the TR-6, and the location of the bolt / pivot
> changed in a way that lowers the car.
>
> Spring pans are the same.
>
> http://www.tonydrews.com/Front_Suspension/tr4_front_suspension_upgrade.htm
>
> But, the springs will fit, but will be a bit shorter than the original if
> I'm doing my math right:
> 9.75 + 1.25 = 11"
> vs
> 10.1"
>
> Tony
>
> At 09:21 AM 8/5/2014, Brad Kahler wrote:
>
>> I'm trying to do an analysis of the front suspension dimensional
>> differences between the early TR4 cars and the TR4A and later cars.
>>
>> Below are some assumptions that I've made:
>>
>> The lower a-arms are the same from tr4 thru tr6. The upper a-arms are the
>> same from later tr4 thru tr6. The vertical links are dimensionally the
>> same
>> except for camber/castor angle changes. I'm pretty sure the lower spring
>> pans are the same with probably only slight differences but I believe the
>> basic dimensions are the same. The upper fulcrums are the same just the
>> orientation changes between tr4 and later tr4 thru tr6.
>>
>> Since the vertical links are the same overall length that should mean the
>> distance between the upper fulcrum pivot point and the lower a-arm pivot
>> point (on the frame) should be the same for all models. With all of that
>> being said that tells me the installed spring height from the lower spring
>> pan seat to the upper spring seat should be the same for all models.
>>
>> I'm betting the overall front end weight is pretty close between the 4 and
>> 6 cylinder cars as I've read that the stock spring rate between 4s and
>> 250s
>> is only about 2 pounds (310 vs 312)
>>
>> So my unless I'm missing something then springs that are 10.1 inches tall
>> from a tr250 should fit in a tr4 that originally had 9-3/4" springs and a
>> 1-1/4" packing piece. In other words the 10.1" springs (and no packing
>> piece) should be a direct swap for the 9-3/4" spring it its associated
>> 1-1/4" packing piece.
>>
>> Anyone see any holes in my logic?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 21:39:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update
References: <[email-masked]>

Watched the video, looks like  lot of fun, I am sure you have your own plans 
or idea in your head for what you want from the car, you mention it needs 
paint, I know cars looks nicer in pictures on the internet than they do in 
real life, but it sure looks pretty, shiny and smooth in the video.  You 
paint it you spend a lot of time and or money and or both, and then you are 
afraid to drive it because it is all perfect and you might get stone chips, 
you can't park it because you might get door dings etc., you worry about it, 
it looks nicer when you park it at shows, but it becomes less fun.  Just one 
man's opinion, just a thought, looks good, enjoy it!

Greg Lemon 

>From [email-masked]
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 07:50:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Information

  Hi:
  Steering Column Bushing installation through firewall headache!
  A job that just about drove me around the bend when attempting installing a
new replacement Steering Column Bushing to my 1982 TR8. How the heck does one
accomplish this?: even with prior soaking in hot water, pliers, fingers, screw
driver.
  Anyway, it completely foxed me. And finally after over an hour of trying, I
then for some time with a cup of tea sat on my garage stool pondering what
else the blue blazes could I do!. Contemplating there has to be a better way
that the factory used when building the car (installation likely without the
engine yet installed!), when the voice of one of my very good Pals floated
down from the Cosmos [I later found out he was playing tennis at that precise
time the other side of Calgary]. A voice transmitting, bwhat would Ray do
here....of course invent a toolb.
  So herebs my invention, consisting of a U sized piece of metal with a good
strong bolt of sufficient length to protrude through the firewall to connect
to a number of washers beyond the firewall in the engine bay. Washers that I
had at hand; and of course a good strong nut over the washers with which to
tighten the system. The U piece placed on the inside of the firewall inside
the car. With the washers b again inside the engine bay - acting as a
compression to push the bushing into place. And it works !!!
  I though would recommend using a U piece of steel instead of the piece of
aluminum I used b at hand to see if this worked - that I cut into shape.
That slighted indented itself with pressure. Though it still worked
handsomely.
  Cheers
  Mike Coe, Calgary, Alberta, Canada

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 08:57:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Information
References: <A3836A5970164EE792D2C345495AFE0C@OwnerHP>

Congratulations Mike, once again proving that necessity is the mother of
invention.

Bill B
1962 TR3b

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 6, 2014, at 8:50 AM, "Mike Coe" <coefront at shaw.ca> wrote:

 Hi:
 Steering Column Bushing installation through firewall headache!
 A job that just about drove me around the bend when attempting installing a
new replacement Steering Column Bushing to my 1982 TR8. How the heck does one
accomplish this?: even with prior soaking in hot water, pliers, fingers,
screw
driver.
 Anyway, it completely foxed me. And finally after over an hour of trying, I
then for some time with a cup of tea sat on my garage stool pondering what
else the blue blazes could I do!. Contemplating there has to be a better way
that the factory used when building the car (installation likely without the
engine yet installed!), when the voice of one of my very good Pals floated
down from the Cosmos [I later found out he was playing tennis at that precise
time the other side of Calgary]. A voice transmitting, bwhat would Ray do
here....of course invent a toolb.
 So herebs my invention, consisting of a U sized piece of metal with a good
strong bolt of sufficient length to protrude through the firewall to connect
to a number of washers beyond the firewall in the engine bay. Washers that I
had at hand; and of course a good strong nut over the washers with which to
tighten the system. The U piece placed on the inside of the firewall inside
the car. With the washers b again inside the engine bay - acting as a
compression to push the bushing into place. And it works !!!
 I though would recommend using a U piece of steel instead of the piece of
aluminum I used b at hand to see if this worked - that I cut into shape.
That slighted indented itself with pressure. Though it still worked
handsomely.
 Cheers
 Mike Coe, Calgary, Alberta, Canada

>From [email-masked]
From: wbrazinski at hotmail.com (Wayne Brazinski)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 09:41:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update
References: <[email-masked]>,
 <E4690332DB1E45BA86F1B5823C0E2092@livingroompc>

Everyone,THANKS for your nice comments on the V8 TR3, I really appreciate it.
Ironically my greatest critic was my Dad who thinks I should have done a
better job recording the exhaust noise and I should have found more windy
roads and the video was too long!  Other than that he was happy.
I'm offering to loan him out to anyone who needs an 83 year old Dad - minimum
loan time is 1 month, and you have to feed and house him!
Wayne

> From: glemon at neb.rr.com
> To: wbrazinski at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update
> Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 21:39:55 -0500
>
>
>
> Watched the video, looks like  lot of fun, I am sure you have your own plans
> or idea in your head for what you want from the car, you mention it needs
> paint, I know cars looks nicer in pictures on the internet than they do in
> real life, but it sure looks pretty, shiny and smooth in the video.  You
> paint it you spend a lot of time and or money and or both, and then you are
> afraid to drive it because it is all perfect and you might get stone chips,
> you can't park it because you might get door dings etc., you worry about it,
> it looks nicer when you park it at shows, but it becomes less fun.  Just one
> man's opinion, just a thought, looks good, enjoy it!
>
> Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: michaelmarr5258 at comcast.net (MICHAELMARR5258)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 16:20:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update
References: <[email-masked]>

Wayne:
 
I have been wondering how you have been doing with the conversion.B  You have
achieved a lot more with your car in the last five years than I have with
mine!B  The car looks great and I will watch out for it during my drives
around Plainfield.B  Have you taken it to cruise night yet?
B 
Mike

>From [email-masked]
From: michaelmarr5258 at comcast.net (MICHAELMARR5258)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 16:36:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update
References: <[email-masked]>

I just watched theB rest of theB video and thoroughly enjoyed the driving
sequence.B  I know those roads quite well.B  The car looks nicely sorted - a
slight rise of the front end under acceleration and flat as a pancake on the
turns.B  Really nice job, Wayne!
Mike
B 

>From [email-masked]
From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton)
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2014 11:53:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] CollarBond Reviews

Greetings. Does anyone on the list have experience with ColorBond for vinyl
and/or ColorBond for carpet? I'm considering going from blue to black, and
would like to avoid the expense of an entirely new interior if possible.

Thanks!

-- Jeff

1962 Triumph Surrey Top TR4

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 20:12:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Surrey top question

List:

-          Am I right to assume a Surrey top from a TR4 will fit a TR250?

-          Roughly how much is an original factory Surrey top worth? Comes
with the hard-top section - both been lying around for a long time but
rust-free.

Thanks!

Andrew

>From [email-masked]
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 19:40:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] CollarBond Reviews
References: <[email-masked]>

No experience with ColorBond.

Ive had good luck with SEM vinyl/carpet paint. Ive sprayed it on a towel and
freshened up my carpet where the sun had faded it. Also used it on sheepskin
seats and it never rubbed off on clothing.

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2014 13:32:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3  not 3a

57 smallmouth tr3 and Ibm putting in the grill and the glovebox.

can anyone tell me the screws (I assume they are screws) for these?

thanks!

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (W Beecher)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2014 12:31:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3  not 3a

Check with Mark Macy at Macy's Garage. 

>From [email-masked]
From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton)
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2014 16:46:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] ColorBond and Surrey Top on TR250

Thanks to everyone who replied to my question about ColorBond. Looks like it
or a similar product by SEM is worth a try.

In response to Andrew's question, I was flipping through Piggott's book
yesterday and there are several pictures of surrey tops fitted to TR250s. They
were apparently even available on TR6s.

As for price, I was following them rather closely on eBay until I actually
found one attached to a car I could afford :).  One sold for $4000 in May. One
failed to sell for $4,250 in June. I'm pretty sure two went for over $5000 in
the early spring. I bid on one but lost, and some part of me thinks it went
for over $6000.

-- Jeff

>From [email-masked]
From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton)
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2014 16:47:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] CollarBond Reviews
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Thanks, Bud. Further research online pointed me to SEM also, which seems to be
favored by the pros.

>From [email-masked]
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2014 05:40:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] CollarBond Reviews
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

When I first completed my TR3, I used SEM to change the color of the 
seats from red to tan. That worked wel and lasted for 2 years with no 
flaw until I could afford the leather seat covers I wanted.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

1957 Triumph TR3
1961 Jaguar Mark 2
1975 Triumph TR6
1997 Land Rover Discovery

>From [email-masked]
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 09:45:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Downloadable, printable fastener reference info

This might be useful to a number of us:
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Printable-Tools/Default.aspx

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 11:31:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Downloadable, printable fastener reference info
References: <CAPK7CFB3LuYL4uD6wO35vMkuAWwr18FiLiyqat+Bt-k=[email-masked]>

thank you!  this is great!!!

>From [email-masked]
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 16:54:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] ColorBond and Surrey Top on TR250
References: <[email-masked]>

On Aug 8, 2014, at 2:00 PM, Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton at icloud.com> wrote:

>
>
> In response to Andrew's question, I was flipping through Piggott's book
> yesterday and there are several pictures of surrey tops fitted to TR250s.
They
> were apparently even available on TR6s.
>
> As for price, I was following them rather closely on eBay until I actually
> found one attached to a car I could afford :).  One sold for $4000 in May.
One
> failed to sell for $4,250 in June. I'm pretty sure two went for over $5000
in
> the early spring. I bid on one but lost, and some part of me thinks it went
> for over $6000.
>
> -- Jeff
The hardtop available for the TR6 is different. However, the Surrey Top will
fit and many TR6 owners have installed them.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

>From [email-masked]
From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2014 20:44:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle

So I have a friend who is moving from Denver to Los Alamos and he has a
1973 MGB that has been sitting for the past 30 years. My friend, being an
auto mechanic by trade, did not drain the gas tank prior to this prolonged
storage (moron).
Since may of you have resolved this problem tell me how long will it take
to get the car running and what steps are required?

Thanks Much

>From [email-masked]
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 04:46:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle

It could be anything from drain and refill the tank to new tank, lines, and carburetor/fuel pump rebuild.  It's hard to say.  If your friend is an auto mechanic he should be able to handle it without much guidance.

Chad in Tulsa
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 8/10/14, Lee Janssen <lee.k.janssen at gmail.com> wrote:

 Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle
 To: "triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
 Date: Sunday, August 10, 2014, 9:44 PM
 
 So I have a friend who is moving from
 Denver to Los Alamos and he has a
 1973 MGB that has been sitting for the past 30 years. My
 friend, being an
 auto mechanic by trade, did not drain the gas tank prior to
 this prolonged
 storage (moron).
 Since may of you have resolved this problem tell me how long
 will it take
 to get the car running and what steps are required?
 
 Thanks Much

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 06:58:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle
References: <CAA90-ECstV6Q+nrmh0MQK+WUVLEu2syeY-VkCCxtXsQ=[email-masked]>

If your friend is a mechanic he should know the basics of waking the car 
back up, sounds like it will need the gas tank cleaned out, as well as the 
carbs, I would pour some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders to lube them 
a little, new battery goes without saying, I certainly wouldn't trust the 
brake or clutch hydraulics after 30 years and he will want new rubber bits 
all around there, and probably new radiator hoses and belts soon if not 
immediately as well.  Electrics will need to be tested, the fuel pump may 
need a good whack or points cleaned to get going, SU pumps don't like to sit 
that long.  Obviously change the oil in the motor, check the oil level in 
the carb dashpots, drain flush and fill radiator, I am sure I am probably 
missing something, but that would be a good start.

Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 08:05:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle
References: <CAA90-ECstV6Q+nrmh0MQK+WUVLEu2syeY-VkCCxtXsQ=[email-masked]>

He's not planning on driving it, is he?  Getting it running is one
thing, getting it driveable is another.  Getting it ready for a 350
mile trip is orders of magnitude more complicated.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Sun, Aug 10, 2014 at 10:44 PM, Lee Janssen <lee.k.janssen at gmail.com> wrote:
> So I have a friend who is moving from Denver to Los Alamos and he has a
> 1973 MGB that has been sitting for the past 30 years. My friend, being an
> auto mechanic by trade, did not drain the gas tank prior to this prolonged
> storage (moron).
> Since may of you have resolved this problem tell me how long will it take
> to get the car running and what steps are required?
>
> Thanks Much
>

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 07:52:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle
References: <CAA90-ECstV6Q+nrmh0MQK+WUVLEu2syeY-VkCCxtXsQ=[email-masked]>

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/storage/

on how to revive a sleeping car

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 12:41:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Caged nut substitute?

Needing to replace the caged nuts on my TR3 nosepiece and came across a clip
style caged nut, 1/4x20, with little clips that hold the nut in place within
the hole.

Anyone with any BTDT recommendations?

All the best,
Bill B
1962 TR3B

>From [email-masked]
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 12:07:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Caged nut substitute?
References: <[email-masked]>

McMasters.com , every fastener ever made.

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 19:08:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Caged nut substitute?

---- Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote: 
> Needing to replace the caged nuts on my TR3 nosepiece and came across a clip
> style caged nut, 1/4x20, with little clips that hold the nut in place within
> the hole.

I really hate changing threads, especially those that are hidden from sight.  So, faced with the same issue, I sourced some of the 1/4-28 caged nuts that Mark Macy shows on his website.  I got mine at McMaster-Carr (who calls them "Easy-Align Weld Nuts").
http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=t8itdx

They aren't a perfect drop-in, as they have a flange that is intended to protrude into the panel.  You have to either enlarge the hole in the panel, or grind off the flange.  But either approach is easy enough.

BTW, I also picked up one of those cheap spot welders from HF, which worked a treat for attaching the nuts.

-- Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 14:16:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Caged nut substitute?
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

I have found them.  Have you ever used them?
Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 11, 2014, at 2:07 PM, William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:

McMasters.com , every fastener ever made.

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA

>From [email-masked]
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 18:44:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Post motor rebuild re-torque

Hello List:
Just wondering about how many miles following a motor rebuild (TR 2-4) 
should re-torquing of head & setting of valve clearances take place? 
Should any other re-torquing be done as well? Manifolds, etc?
What is the correct re-torquing method - back off the nut and re-tighten 
to spec or just tighten to spec?
Should an oil & filter change be done at the same mileage, or would you 
get higher mileage on the original oil?
Thanks for any insights.
Angelo Graham

>From [email-masked]
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 15:45:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Post motor rebuild re-torque
References: <dajn1o00G0NyJgq01ajoYh>

I re-torque the head at about 500 miles, and yes it never hurts to make a
pass around the manifolds as well.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 23:24:53 +0000
Subject: [TR] Post motor rebuild re-torque

Yes to both head and manifold nuts.  Not a bad idea to recheck the manifold nuts even at major tune-up intervals, IMO, as they do sometimes seem to back off with heat cycling.

> What is the correct re-torquing method - back off the nut and re-tighten 
> to spec or just tighten to spec?

For head nuts, definitely back off and retighten to spec.  At those high torque levels, the threads exhibit "stiction", which means it takes more torque to start them moving than it took to get there.  But it's less important for the manifold nuts, IMO.

> Should an oil & filter change be done at the same mileage, or would you 
> get higher mileage on the original oil?

I do.  Especially if you've used a special break-in oil, as many suggest.  But even with regular oil, I feel it's good to get any wear products out ASAP.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 16:32:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle
References: <CAA90-ECstV6Q+nrmh0MQK+WUVLEu2syeY-VkCCxtXsQ=[email-masked]>

The good news is that the gas sold 30 years ago was a much friendlier
formula for long-term neglect.  It will still be useless of course, but
possibly not set up in the glue-like gunk that modern fuels revert to
fairly quickly.

Our club does 'revivals' where we attempt to start a long-dormant car.  We
have never been defeated and our longest 'sleep' thus far was an MGA that
had not run in 31 years:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0cLnCdetxg

By contrast, an MGA that had only sat about 6 months was very difficult.
The valve train was so solidly glued in place from old fuel that the engine
was seized.  Lots of carb cleaner and a ball peen hammer were needed to get
it loose.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 23:43:09 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle

---- dave n <dave at ranteer.com> wrote: 
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/storage/
> 
> on how to revive a sleeping car

Doesn't go nearly far enough for a LBC stored 30 years, IMO.  For example, there is no point at all in trying to change brake fluid; you might as well start by tearing down every cylinder (including clutch slave & master) for inspection and possible rebuild.  Expect to replace several of them.  Likely the rear cylinders will have leaked fluid into the drum, which means new shoes.  Replace all the soft brake lines.  Change all the soft fuel lines (to ethanol resistant); rebuild the fuel pump (same reason), etc.  By 73 it probably has plastic floats in the carbs, which will need to be replaced (along with cleaning and a minor rebuild).  Have the radiator "rodded out".  Full chassis service; best practice is probably to disassemble, clean and relube anything with grease in it including wheel bearings, wiper motor and so on.

Plan on new tires _before_ attempting any speed over 30 mph.

Just for entertainment, this is what the clutch slave looked like on my "barn find" TR3 (stored just about 30 years).
http://tinyurl.com/q7rme55

-- Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 20:24:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle
References: <20140811234309.2STUV.171020.root@cdptpa-web03>

thanks for that, Randall. I have added your comments to the list.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2014 6:43 PM
To: triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Rip Van Winkle

---- dave n <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/storage/
>
> on how to revive a sleeping car

Doesn't go nearly far enough for a LBC stored 30 years, IMO.  For example,
there is no point at all in trying to change brake fluid; you might as well
start by tearing down every cylinder (including clutch slave & master) for
inspection and possible rebuild.  Expect to replace several of them.  Likely
the rear cylinders will have leaked fluid into the drum, which means new
shoes.  Replace all the soft brake lines.  Change all the soft fuel lines
(to ethanol resistant); rebuild the fuel pump (same reason), etc.  By 73 it
probably has plastic floats in the carbs, which will need to be replaced
(along with cleaning and a minor rebuild).  Have the radiator "rodded out".
Full chassis service; best practice is probably to disassemble, clean and
relube anything with grease in it including wheel bearings, wiper motor and
so on.

Plan on new tires _before_ attempting any speed over 30 mph.

Just for entertainment, this is what the clutch slave looked like on my
"barn find" TR3 (stored just about 30 years).
http://tinyurl.com/q7rme55

-- Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 09:42:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Newbie oil filter question

Greetings. I just checked the oil on my new-to-me 1962 TR4 and need to replace
it. The car has a Mann W719/14 filter on a Purolator filter adapter. What
model K&N filter should I buy?

Thanks for putting up with such a noob question!

>From [email-masked]
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 12:47:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tranny install question

List:
I am a little rusty when it comes to installing the tranny back in my six.  I
have a special threaded dowel for the 12 o'clock hole on engine block to act
as a guide.  Am I supposed to have dowels at the 2 and 8 o'clock positions
too?  I had heard from one person to install a dowel in huge hole just above
the top starter mount hole.  Any help would be appreciated as I think it would
speed up my install time.  Last time I did one with only one dowel and it took
the two of us 45 minutes of wiggling.  Oh, the motor is installed and I have
it attached to a hoist so I can adjust up and down as needed without resting
on the firewall.
Thanks in advance.
Jim henningsen
Ocala fl

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 13:21:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tranny install question
References: <[email-masked]>

There are two holes that should have tight-fitting dowels in them.
Scroll to the bottom of this page:
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/LocatingDowels.htm  and look for the
yellow arrows.

I ordered dowels from TRF along with my alignment shaft and a bunch of
other stuff.  They don't help so much for getting things lined up
during install, but legend has it that they are essential for proper
clutch operation.

As for putting the thing in, patience is your friend.  That, and
making sure that a.) you got the clutch disc centered, and b.) that
you didn't let the disc hang on the input shaft and get misaligned.
Other than that, wiggle and turn, wiggle and turn.  Eventually you
will find the secret combination of swear words that unlock the
transmission and allow it to jump on the engine.  Whatever you do,
don't force it, though.

You have the back of the motor jacked up slightly, don't you?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Tue, Aug 12, 2014 at 12:47 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> List:
> I am a little rusty when it comes to installing the tranny back in my six.  I
> have a special threaded dowel for the 12 o'clock hole on engine block to act
> as a guide.  Am I supposed to have dowels at the 2 and 8 o'clock positions
> too?  I had heard from one person to install a dowel in huge hole just above
> the top starter mount hole.  Any help would be appreciated as I think it would
> speed up my install time.  Last time I did one with only one dowel and it took
> the two of us 45 minutes of wiggling.  Oh, the motor is installed and I have
> it attached to a hoist so I can adjust up and down as needed without resting
> on the firewall.
> Thanks in advance.
> Jim henningsen
> Ocala fl

>From [email-masked]
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 12:24:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tranny install question
References: <[email-masked]>

Another tip - put the tranny in 4th gear and rotate the output shaft 
a bit when you get close.  That helps align the splines into the 
clutch disk.  That's always the hardest part.

Tony

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 12:27:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tranny install question
References: <[email-masked]>

Sounds like the same process I used for my TR3 trans install.  I just used
the top dowel, this seems to give a little more wiggle room to get
everything else lined up.

Bill B

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Henningsen
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 11:48 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tranny install question

List:
I am a little rusty when it comes to installing the tranny back in my six.
I have a special threaded dowel for the 12 o'clock hole on engine block to
act as a guide.  Am I supposed to have dowels at the 2 and 8 o'clock
positions too?  I had heard from one person to install a dowel in huge hole
just above the top starter mount hole.  Any help would be appreciated as I
think it would speed up my install time.  Last time I did one with only one
dowel and it took the two of us 45 minutes of wiggling.  Oh, the motor is
installed and I have it attached to a hoist so I can adjust up and down as
needed without resting on the firewall.
Thanks in advance.
Jim henningsen
Ocala fl

>From [email-masked]
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 14:24:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 seatbelt installation

Hello List:
I am installing lap belts in my TR2 and have checked the archives for 
some background with no real clear answers. I intend to anchor the 
inside belt to the part of the trans/drive shaft tunnel that is welded 
to the floor. This puts the anchor bolt in "shear" position, which I 
have been told is OK. Just not clear on where to put the anchor for the 
outside belt. Thought of the wheel-well as the metal appears to be quite 
solid. Not sure of the sloping shelf panels behind the seats as they 
appear to be boxed sections & access may not work.
Any advice on mounting location? Using high strength reinforcing washers 
and Grade 8 hardware.
Thanks for any help with this one.
Angelo Graham

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 15:45:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Newbie oil filter question
References: <[email-masked]>

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/filters/

I believe that all the spin on adapters are the same.  please correct me if 
I am wrong

btw my preference is wix; wix also makes the filters for napa; drop the 
first digit from the wix number and you'll have the napa number

>From [email-masked]
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 21:45:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Post motor rebuild re-torque
References: <[email-masked]>

>What is the correct re-torquing method - back off the nut and re-tighten 
>to spec or just tighten to spec?

Just to add to what others have said, I've finally found that the Head nuts that are outside the valve cover are dry as a bone, while those inside are nicely oiled.  Backing off the "outside" nuts, then retorquing always finished with a screeching sound (I think Randal had a name for it).  This last time, I oiled the studs outside so that they would be equally oiled as the studs inside and so they would torque evenly.  Probably unnecessary, but I seemed to feel like I got a more accurate torquing of the normally "dry" outside studs.

Terry Smith, 1959 TR3A
New Hampshire

>From [email-masked]
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 21:48:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Newbie oil filter question
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

>btw my preference is wix; wix also makes the filters for napa; drop the 
>first digit from the wix number and you'll have the napa number

Ditto on WIX and NAPA.  Quality filters.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 23:49:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] Post motor rebuild re-torque

While I agree with your efforts as far as consistency is concerned, I believe I have read that you are generally  supposed to take torque readings with all threads dry.

Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 19:24:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tranny install question
References: <[email-masked]>

My one man method which has always worked pretty good is to align and 
support everything eyeballed to be as straight as possible, then put on a 
pair of old jeans or overalls, sit on the tunnel behind the tranny and push 
forward with your feet on the lip of the bell housing on both sides while 
gently wiggling the tail shaft with your hands, works like a charm, but 
still sometimes they go home very quickly, and sometimes the seem to be a 
little, or a lot more stubborn.  That happy moment where it lines up and 
slides on the last inch or whatever is one of the more satisfying feelings 
in wrenching.

Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 20:30:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tranny install question
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Thanks Tony and all who responded.  I was missing the dowels so just did a
quick order with 2 day shipping (ouch).  This list is one of the reasons I
have stayed in the Triumph brand and have not swayed to another sports car
brand.  You all are great.  Getting close to firing up the spare tired motor
to get my TR6 to the VTR!  We need to make this one of the biggest ever for
attendance!  We can do this.  The Florida gang is coming!
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

>From [email-masked]
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 20:40:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tranny install question
References: <[email-masked]>
 <3DC4156E90D24C91848DC20EE1513808@livingroompc>

Thanks and amen to that last line.  When it slides in, it is a very good
feeling indeed. Especially after wrestling with it for half an hour or more.
Cheers, Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon [mailto:glemon at neb.rr.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 8:25 PM
To: Jim Henningsen; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny install question

My one man method which has always worked pretty good is to align and
support everything eyeballed to be as straight as possible, then put on a
pair of old jeans or overalls, sit on the tunnel behind the tranny and push
forward with your feet on the lip of the bell housing on both sides while
gently wiggling the tail shaft with your hands, works like a charm, but
still sometimes they go home very quickly, and sometimes the seem to be a
little, or a lot more stubborn.  That happy moment where it lines up and
slides on the last inch or whatever is one of the more satisfying feelings
in wrenching.

Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 19:48:36 -0600
Subject: [TR] Tranny install question
References: <[email-masked]>
 <3DC4156E90D24C91848DC20EE1513808@livingroompc>

Greg Lemon wrote:
> That happy moment where it lines up and slides on the last inch or whatever is one of the more satisfying feelings in wrenching.

In one of Carroll Smith's "X to Win" books he talks about a night when he and a well known race driver
were working well into the night to get the car ready for morning practice. They offer up the gearbox
to the engine, and it slides home right away. They look at each other, and both conclude that the spigot
bushing was not installed in the flywheel which is why it slid right in.  They pull the tranny out to
look and there in the flywheel is the spigot bushing. The second attempt to mate took a LOT longer.

mjb.

>From [email-masked]
From: tboggiano at gmail.com (Tom B)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 06:00:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Car shipping
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Has anyone used A1A express auto shipping to ship a car 

I am ok with unknowns just want to knowing they should be avoided

Thanks
Tom

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:05:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Car shipping
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 3:00 AM, Tom B <tboggiano at gmail.com> wrote:

> Has anyone used A1A express auto shipping to ship a car...

I haven't, but in my opinion something to ask (if you haven't already) is
whether they own their own trucks & do the drivers work for them -- or do
they turn around and farm out the job to an independent?

Your car is only as safe & secure as the driver and truck involved.  If it
gets farmed out you will not only know little or nothing about the team but
it could indeed be changing transport & drivers along the way.

I've never had an problem shipping a car but I like to know exactly who
will have it, that it will stay with that driver and transport the entire
journey and have the cell phone number of the driver should anything arise.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 16:22:11 -0600
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor

So there is this TR4A down at Bailey's shop that is slowly coming together. Today's setback
was being told by the electrical shop that the wiper motor is toast, not rebuildable. But the
Lucas RR3A square body two speed unit was pretty common on cars of that era, so hopefully a
working example can be quickly acquired. Sources, approximate prices, anyone?  First thing
I'll do is look for one in my own garage.

mjb.

>From [email-masked]
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 16:41:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor
References: <[email-masked]>

That should be a DR3A motor.

mjb.

>From [email-masked]
From: ashleys at farmside.co.nz (ashleys)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 11:13:09 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR3B For Sale

I have a rebuilt LHD TR3B here in New Zealand.The only known 3B in NZ great
touring sports car.
For further details check--        www.Trademe.co.nz        listing number
766749303

many thanks

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 20:23:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor
References: <[email-masked]>
  <[email-masked]>

Mark,
I might have one that is rebuildable. Well, actually, I tried to rebuild it 
a long time ago and I screwed up the brush holder. Everything else was OK. I 
think a replacement brush holder could be made. Let me know if you want it 
and send me your mailing address.
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS

>From [email-masked]
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 13:29:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 clutches

List,
 
What currently available combo of TR6 pressure plate, disc, and throwout
bearing actually works? I don't wish to rehash all the 'net discussions, just
want to know if someone out there has found a currently available combo that
functions properly.
 
Ed Woods

>From [email-masked]
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 12:45:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)

 Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 16:22:11 -0600From: Mark J Bradakis
<mark at bradakis.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Wiper
motor
charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

So there is this TR4A down at Bailey's shop that
is slowly coming together. Today's setback
was being told by the electrical
shop that the wiper motor is toast, not rebuildable. But the
Lucas RR3A square
body two speed unit was pretty common on cars of that era, so hopefully a
working example can be quickly acquired. Sources, approximate prices, anyone? 
First thing
I'll do is look for one in my own garage.

mjb.
-------
Hi mark! I
have one that you might want. please contact me off line @TR4A2712 at yahoo.com
-Cosmo Kramer

>From [email-masked]
From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 20:07:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering

Hi,

I've been fighting a problem with our TR4A for a couple of years and it just
won't go away.  Symptom is a "sputtering" at high-way speeds.  Performance
seems fine - it just becomes no fun on longer trips.  Our annual fall sojourn
to Stowe is coming up and I'm looking for ideas.  So far:
*       replaced defective stainless steel muffler that had incomplete welds
on the intake - lifetime warranty honoured by TRF - thanks guys!
*       fixed problem with coil to distributor wire which was not fully "home"
in distributor resulting in pin making poor contact - checked all other plug
wires at pins - ok
*       installed NEW plug wires (yellow/black) and distributor cap
*       perhaps unrelated, but replaced fuel pump that went bad 2 years ago in
Stowe - replacement was Moss reproduction
Any thoughts?

Cheers,

Brian
_______________________________________________________________________
   Brian Thomas                    E-mail:
   92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
   Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01 XKR,
75 John Deere 920
   CANADA   K0H

>From [email-masked]
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 15:19:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering
References: <[email-masked]>

On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 3:07 PM, Brian Thomas <thomasb at queensu.ca> wrote:

> *       installed NEW plug wires (yellow/black) and distributor cap
>

A friend who owns an auto parts store told me a few years ago that there
were a lot of bad distributor rotors out there for the tractor engine cars.
He sourced some from another provider and I never had another issue with my
TR4 vintage race car. I also know that TR6 rotors were an issue for a while
as well. When was the last time you changed yours? When mine went bad, it
started out as a high speed misfire.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 15:33:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering
References: <[email-masked]>

Brian,
Take Irv's suggestion of a new rotor first, I had heard the same thing a few
years back.

if the problem persists I would check the float level settings and that new
fuel pump.  I had a weak new fuel pump that showed up between 50 & 60 MPH.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 14, 2014, at 3:07 PM, Brian Thomas <thomasb at queensu.ca> wrote:

Hi,

I've been fighting a problem with our TR4A for a couple of years and it just
won't go away.  Symptom is a "sputtering" at high-way speeds.  Performance
seems fine - it just becomes no fun on longer trips.  Our annual fall sojourn
to Stowe is coming up and I'm looking for ideas.  So far:
*       replaced defective stainless steel muffler that had incomplete welds
on the intake - lifetime warranty honoured by TRF - thanks guys!
*       fixed problem with coil to distributor wire which was not fully
"home"
in distributor resulting in pin making poor contact - checked all other plug
wires at pins - ok
*       installed NEW plug wires (yellow/black) and distributor cap
*       perhaps unrelated, but replaced fuel pump that went bad 2 years ago
in
Stowe - replacement was Moss reproduction
Any thoughts?

Cheers,

Brian
_______________________________________________________________________
  Brian Thomas                    E-mail:
  92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
  Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01 XKR,
75 John Deere 920
  CANADA   K0H

>From [email-masked]
From: dbh97530 at gmail.com (Dave Hammond)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 13:55:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Engine mounting holes in frame
References: <[email-masked]>

I am about to mount the engine to the frame of my TR4A IRS. There are 2 sets
of holes in the frame. Do I use the rear most?
David
66TR4A

>From [email-masked]
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 17:01:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering
References: <[email-masked]>

Brian,

Had the same issue with my TR4A a while back.

For reasons that will be apparent later, I need to state that I have an
electric cooling fan which I rarely turn on.
I use it only at stops, or slow driving.

After close to an hour of highway driving, the car would act like it was being
starved of fuel.

I checked everything out (carbs, floats, spark, etc.) and everything looked
OK.
Plus, the problem would go away after I stopped for a little while.

One day, for an unrelated issue, I installed one of those shiny heat shields
for the carbs, and the problem went away!
My theory is that running for long periods without the cooling fan on was
causing enough trapped heat around the carbs to create a running condition
akin to vapor lock.

On Aug 14, 2014, at 3:07 PM, Brian Thomas <thomasb at queensu.ca> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I've been fighting a problem with our TR4A for a couple of years and it
just
> won't go away.  Symptom is a "sputtering" at high-way speeds.  Performance
> seems fine - it just becomes no fun on longer trips.  Our annual fall
sojourn
> to Stowe is coming up and I'm looking for ideas.  So far:
> *       replaced defective stainless steel muffler that had incomplete
welds
> on the intake - lifetime warranty honoured by TRF - thanks guys!
> *       fixed problem with coil to distributor wire which was not fully
"home"
> in distributor resulting in pin making poor contact - checked all other
plug
> wires at pins - ok
> *       installed NEW plug wires (yellow/black) and distributor cap
> *       perhaps unrelated, but replaced fuel pump that went bad 2 years ago
in
> Stowe - replacement was Moss reproduction
> Any thoughts?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Brian

>From [email-masked]
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 22:30:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mach3 - off topic
References: <[email-masked]>

I apologise for the off-topic question, but I know there are a few CNC 
experts on the list.

Does anybody have some experience with Mach3 software?

I am building a 3D camera control system and setting up to use Mach3 for 
3-axis controls.

If there is a list member with a bit of knowledge, I would appreciate some 
insight on configuration and motor testing. Please contact me off-list.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

>From [email-masked]
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 06:17:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mach3 - off topic
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

.... seems like a complicated way to just control a 3D camera motion setup.
Q me off list....
...have converted a full mill, lathe and now s 3D router table all 
running M3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KklafqyZpSY

ptegler at verizon.net

>From [email-masked]
From: binduni at gmail.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 11:20:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering (Brian Thomas)

Brian,
I've had the issue MANY times on many different cars, and I would suggest
the follow as a course of action, based on my 40 years restoring British
classics:

1. Replace the points with a Pertronix unit
2. Replace the coil with the correct one for the above
3. Get the best cap and rotor you can, and not the generic kind
4. Adjust the valves to correct specs at the correct temp
5. Check and adjust if necessary the float bowl levels, and consider
changing the float valves. Also adjust the F/A mixture. Use a ColorTune if
you can.
6. Make sure you have a good heat shield in place and the fuel line is
routed to mitigate the possibility of vapor lock
7. Check the timing and set as per the specs. Also make sure the vacuum
advance (or retard if you have that setup as I do in my Stag) is working
properly
8. Make certain the fuel is fresh and not contaminated. If any doubt, drain
and refill the tank
9. Check for obstructions in the fuel line all the way to the carbs. I
disconnect the lines and use compressed air to blow out (no need to 100psi)
and catch whatever comes out. This will give some indication as to what
might be lurking in the system.
10. Take it out right away and test!

I've had this issue caused by one thing one time, and another thing the
next, or a combination of things. It's always best to start off by setting
and adjusting everything as it should be before you set out to correct an
issue.

Remember, there are ONLY 3 things needed: Fuel, air, and ignition! The
trick is getting all 3 to be in the correct proportion and happen at the
correct time!

Sorry for the long winded answer, but I like to be as thorough as possible
to alleviate headaches later.

Brian I

> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 20:07:36 +0000
> From: Brian Thomas <thomasb at queensu.ca>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering
> Message-ID:
>         <
> C11A4D073AAF8042BECE2B3D862F4EF820A95A9E at MP-DUP-MBX-01.AD.QUEENSU.CA>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi,
>
> I've been fighting a problem with our TR4A for a couple of years and it
> just
> won't go away.  Symptom is a "sputtering" at high-way speeds.  Performance
> seems fine - it just becomes no fun on longer trips.  Our annual fall
> sojourn
> to Stowe is coming up and I'm looking for ideas.  So far:
> *       replaced defective stainless steel muffler that had incomplete
> welds
> on the intake - lifetime warranty honoured by TRF - thanks guys!
> *       fixed problem with coil to distributor wire which was not fully
> "home"
> in distributor resulting in pin making poor contact - checked all other
> plug
> wires at pins - ok
> *       installed NEW plug wires (yellow/black) and distributor cap
> *       perhaps unrelated, but replaced fuel pump that went bad 2 years
> ago in
> Stowe - replacement was Moss reproduction
> Any thoughts?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Brian

>From [email-masked]
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 12:22:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3

     I rebuilt my TR3 engine with a new used crank. I polished up the area of
the crank where the front seal goes using a very fine sandpaper and
wet-sanding it with oil lubricant. Probably a mistake because 1000 miles later
it is puking oil out the front seal. I am thinking about trying a
Speedi-Sleeve as sold by Moss and TRF. 
     I also installed a crankcase
evacuation system. I got the idea from Kas Kastner's book. I have only driven
it once since installing the system. It appears to be working, just not at the
front seal...
     I have a few questions:

1. Can it be installed with the
crank still in the engine but the timing cover off? Or do you have to pull the
crank?

2. Would it be possible to install without pulling the bumpers, grill,
front panel, radiator, cross member and everything else that we have to do to
get at the front of the engine? Probably just a pipedream, but one never
knows. Maybe it is possible.

3. Do they work well and are they worth the
trouble?

4. Has anyone else used one of these recently?

     TIA,

     Bill
Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 15:52:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3
References: <[email-masked]>

Just a thought, but did you install the oil deflector between the
gear and oil seal. Part #57196. Helps prevent the oil from throwing
off the gear under speed and right on to the oil seal.

Dean T.

On Aug 15, 2014, at 3:22 PM, William Brewer wrote:

>     I rebuilt my TR3 engine with a new used crank. I polished up the area
of
> the crank where the front seal goes using a very fine sandpaper and
> wet-sanding it with oil lubricant. Probably a mistake because 1000 miles
later
> it is puking oil out the front seal. I am thinking about trying a
> Speedi-Sleeve as sold by Moss and TRF.

>From [email-masked]
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 15:01:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3
References: <[email-masked]>

Bill-

I've done this a few times, it will solve your problem.

> 1. Can it be installed with the
> crank still in the engine but the timing cover off? Or do you have to pull
the
> crank?
>  No need to pull the crank.  For that matter, you wouldn't need to pull the
timing cover either for just the sleeve, but in your case it sounds like the
seal is damaged so its cover off time.
> 2. Would it be possible to install without pulling the bumpers, grill,
> front panel, radiator, cross member and everything else that we have to do
to
> get at the front of the engine? Probably just a pipedream, but one never
> knows. Maybe it is possible.
>  I've never tried it, but I think the front bits have to come off - you have
to get that fan extension off and it takes some room to do so - the radiator
is the biggest problem.  I have pulled a fan extension off without pulling the
cross member - but as I recall that was a tight fit as well.
> 3. Do they work well and are they worth the
> trouble?
>  Absolutely.  You need to change the seal anyway which is the same work -
the speedi-sleeve will give you a smooth sealing surface.
> 4. Has anyone else used one of these recently?
>
Yes, and if you hunt you can find better prices than from the main Triumph
suppliers.  Part numbers which can work are 99175 or 99174 - 99174 being
narrower but useable.  A check on Rockauto shows a National sleeve for $22.79
+ shipping for example. RegardsRandy

>From [email-masked]
From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 20:28:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering
References: <[email-masked]>

Thanks to all who have replied in regards to my "sputtering" problem.  Lots of
good ideas and I'll be working through the list.

This afternoon, I pulled the plugs and the front two were a nice grey/tan
colour while the back two were quite black.  Suspect the rear carb (SU) needs
to be leaned out a little.

Another problem I'm having is that once the car gets up to operating
temperature, the idle will not return to 800 rpm unless the gas pedal is
goosed.  I've been told my throttle shafts are worn and the carbs are likely
sucking air around them.  Is this the likely cause?  The linkage is in good
shape and moves freely.

... and while I've got your ears, a couple of parts I've replaced on the 4
have not lasted well - I wonder if others have experienced the same and how
they've solved?

1. Radiator air deflector - this fibreboard product does not like to get wet
(as it does when driving in the rain).  The lip on the radiator side does not
appear to be rigid enough to keep the top surface in shape and it sags down 3
or 4 inches.  I'm on my second one at present.  I've tried spray painting both
sides with enamel (to waterproof it) but this has not been overly successful.

2. Turn Signal Switch - I'm on the 3rd one of these.  Problem is the return
stops working (and of course I drive on and on with the signal flashing) - I
can just hear the comments - silly old fart ...

Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Brian
_______________________________________________________________________
   Brian Thomas                    E-mail:  ThomasB at QueensU.Ca
   92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
   Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01 XKR, 
75 John Deere 920
   CANADA   K0H 2Y0                       

>From [email-masked]
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 14:16:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Sounds familiar. I had the same plug fouling issue - I checked the floats,
cleaned the float valves, reset the timing, checked the mixture, full tune
up (points, condenser - don't forget that - cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil),
added a heat shield, replaced the fuel filter, put an electric fuel pump
in-line. Finally pulled the carbs and sent them off to be rebuilt. 

I tried the normal test of spraying starter fluid around the carburetor
shafts, but got no increase in rpms. However there was some wiggle in the
shaft so I figured it had to be done anyway. Butterflys were replaced in the
rebuild, so that could have been an issue also. 

The carbs are on their way back to me so I don't know for sure that will
cure the problem, but I am hopeful.

Bob 

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian
Thomas
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 1:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Sputtering

Thanks to all who have replied in regards to my "sputtering" problem.  Lots
of good ideas and I'll be working through the list.

This afternoon, I pulled the plugs and the front two were a nice grey/tan
colour while the back two were quite black.  Suspect the rear carb (SU)
needs to be leaned out a little.

Another problem I'm having is that once the car gets up to operating
temperature, the idle will not return to 800 rpm unless the gas pedal is
goosed.  I've been told my throttle shafts are worn and the carbs are likely
sucking air around them.  Is this the likely cause?  The linkage is in good
shape and moves freely.

... and while I've got your ears, a couple of parts I've replaced on the 4
have not lasted well - I wonder if others have experienced the same and how
they've solved?

1. Radiator air deflector - this fibreboard product does not like to get wet
(as it does when driving in the rain).  The lip on the radiator side does
not appear to be rigid enough to keep the top surface in shape and it sags
down 3 or 4 inches.  I'm on my second one at present.  I've tried spray
painting both sides with enamel (to waterproof it) but this has not been
overly successful.

2. Turn Signal Switch - I'm on the 3rd one of these.  Problem is the return
stops working (and of course I drive on and on with the signal flashing) - I
can just hear the comments - silly old fart ...

Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Brian

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 21:55:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3

---- William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote: 
>      I rebuilt my TR3 engine with a new used crank. I polished up the area of
> the crank where the front seal goes 

I'm confused, Bill.  The front seal doesn't ride on the crank at all; instead it rides on the hub for the pulley.

I've put a Speedi-sleeve on the hub, no problem.  First one I picked out of the catalog by size; but later I noticed that they actually have the TR3 (or maybe it was TR4, same part) listed by application.  The application listing was for a shorter sleeve, but the longer one worked fine for me.  All done with the crank still in the engine and engine still in the car. 

It shouldn't be possible to leak oil through the center of the hub, since the whole stack of extension, hub, gear and shims should be clamped firmly against the cheek of the front crank throw by the dog bolt.  But it wouldn't hurt to put a thin smear of Hylomar on the back surface of the hub when you install it.  I wouldn't use RTV though, as it will get squeezed out of the joint and I don't like strings of RTV running around loose inside the engine.  Hylomar will stay put.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 22:03:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering

---- Brian Thomas <thomasb at queensu.ca> wrote: 

> Another problem I'm having is that once the car gets up to operating
> temperature, the idle will not return to 800 rpm unless the gas pedal is
> goosed.  I've been told my throttle shafts are worn and the carbs are likely
> sucking air around them.  Is this the likely cause?

Seems unlikely to me.  IMO it's more likely that the worn shafts (and bushings/housings) are letting the throttle plates drag on the bottom of the bore, blocking the throttle from closing fully when it returns slowly.  "Goosing" the pedal is like slamming a door that sticks.

Sorry, not much help with the other problems.  I saturated the fiberboard air deflector (on my former TR3A) with rattle-can paint (which took a lot more coats than I thought it would, 6 or 7 as I recall) and it seemed to hold up well.  But I don't drive in the rain much, so doesn't prove anything.

I've seen several people fashion replacements from thin aluminum, but of course that doesn't look original (though it does look nice).

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 17:07:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

On Fri, Aug 15, 2014 at 1:28 PM, Brian Thomas <thomasb at queensu.ca> wrote:

>
> 1. Radiator air deflector - this fibreboard product does not like to get
> wet
> (as it does when driving in the rain).  The lip on the radiator side does
> not
> appear to be rigid enough to keep the top surface in shape and it sags
> down 3
> or 4 inches.  I'm on my second one at present.  I've tried spray painting
> both
> sides with enamel (to waterproof it) but this has not been overly
> successful...
>

I used Thompson's Water Seal on mine and it still looks like new and has
kept its shape 13 years later (more than I can say about the driver).

Disclaimer -  I live in a mostly dry climate though I have driven in the
rain many times.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 17:32:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB

I have a 1980 MGB in the shop with the original OPUS electronic ignition.  

When the car is warm and it gets on an incline, it suddenly quits - no
coughing, sputtering, anything.  It then fires up after a couple minutes and
goes along fine.

I'm convinced it is an ignition problem, but clearly not the coil, wires or
plugs.

Car is in very good shape with no obvious loose wires, grounds, etc.

The dist. is effectively 2 black boxes, so I'm at a loss as to how to
diagnose it.

I can put in a 45D dist, new points, condenser and coil for less than $150,
and put it back to 1972 spec, which is probably less than the time it will
take to try and diagnose the other unit and at least at that point, I have a
system that somebody of reasonable intelligence can sort out.

If anybody has any experience with these things, your comments would be
greatly appreciated.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

>From [email-masked]
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 17:47:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB
References: <[email-masked]> <fCeS1o00L3ovxih01Ceern>

Don,

Good point, but the fact that it cuts out instantly and the fact that if it's
jacked up at the front, the fuel pump is still pumping just fine.

Loose wires are "plumb bobs" they very much care about inclination if they are
shorting against something.  I have no idea what is happening inside the black
boxes - are they sensitive to gravity when they are failing?

Fuel starvation is generally accompanied by some sort of coughing or
sputtering or lack of power, not instantaneous death.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

-----Original Message-----
From: Don Hiscock [mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 5:39 PM
To: Jonas Payne
Subject: Re: [TR] Not TR - MGB

Boy, gravity normally points to fuel flow -- electrons don't care about up and
down that much.

What makes you sure it's ignition?  I'd have guessed fuel delivery.

Rgds,

Don

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 20:19:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB
References: <[email-masked]>
 <fCeS1o00L3ovxih01Ceern> <[email-masked]>

I can't think of the name, but the late cars have an "impact switch" that 
shuts the car off if it gets too big a jolt, I think it is supposed to stop 
the fuel pump in case of an accident, now I remember, inertia switch, if 
that was overly sensitive could cause similar symptoms, I believe it is on 
the left side driver's footwell, when I had an 80 MGB it slipped off the 
floor jack once and I thought I had killed it until I found the switch.

Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 21:29:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB
References: <[email-masked]>
 <fCeS1o00L3ovxih01Ceern> <[email-masked]>

there is also an mg list; you might try there

>From [email-masked]
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 20:08:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3
References: <[email-masked]>
 <20140815215520.S5MGM.281694.root@cdptpa-web03>

     You know, my life is kind of a blur right now and I might not be thinking
straight. I put in a harmonic balancer when I rebuilt the engine. So the seal
should be riding on the pulley hub and not the crank? That's probably the
issue. If so, I might go back in and pull the pulley off and install the
original crank pulley that I was using before.
     Maybe I knocked the seal
loose installing the harmonic dampener. I doubt it though.
     Thanks for
your help.

     -Bill

>From [email-masked]
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 20:39:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

I highly recommend:
http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=476

Mine fits great and looks great
Johnnie
'67tr4a

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 07:22:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB
References: <[email-masked]>

My only experience is with Spitfires, but it's my understanding that
the late OPUS ignition with the remote control box is nothing but  GM
ignition module in a black box with Lucas written on it.  I think it's
pretty simple to open the box and replace the module for about $40.

Still, depending on the condition of the distributor (wobble, etc.),
it might be best to replace it.  You can then put in electronic
ignition if desired.  One thing to consider is the issue of vacuum
advance/retard in your current vs. replacement distributor.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

>From [email-masked]
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 09:08:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB
References: <[email-masked]>

It might be something as simple as the ignition switch.  What does the 
tach
do at this time?  (The MGB has an electronic tach and if the 
switch is
cutting out it should drop to zero immediately even if the 
engine is still
winding down.)  Also, does the heater fan and/or wipers 
cut out at the same
time?

I had a dodgy switch on my MGB (back in the day) and on my TR6.  And
I 
hear GM has had some issues as well.

Dave

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 06:32:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3

>      You know, my life is kind of a blur right now and I 
> might not be thinking
> straight. I put in a harmonic balancer when I rebuilt the 
> engine. 

Could this be the kit that uses an MGB dampener?  If so, there is a sleeve required for the seal to ride on.  Perhaps the sleeve got
left out?

P/N TT11322 here
http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/837-508.pdf

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 06:57:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB

> I had a dodgy switch on my MGB (back in the day) and on my TR6.  And
> I 
> hear GM has had some issues as well.

I find it amusing that the GM problem was actually a deliberate design change, to make the switch easier to turn.  Marketing felt
that the old switch was too "notchy" and felt cheap.  The "issue" is that the weight of big wads of keys can actually turn the
modified switch.  So it was the marketing requirement that was defective, not the switch.

But engineering will still get blamed, as usual.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 12:16:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB
References: <D0.CF.05114.7436FE35@cdptpa-oedge01>

In my case (MGB) it was a burnt contact and a slight wiggle of the keys
would move the contacts slightly enough move the contacts from a good 
place
to a not so good place.  When switches get old stuff happens.

A better
switch would help but Purchasing makes too many decisions.

Dave

>From [email-masked]
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 20:39:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] Another fun night - 6pack list

Earlier today I received an email from a 6pack list subscriber wondering about that list.
Well, turns out it is broken. Actually the first 7 of the alphabetically sorted 67 lists on
Team.Net are broken in the same manner. I'm going to try and get it going, I know a number of you
here are also on the 6pack list. But at the moment, Python pickles have me perplexed.

And speaking of pickled and 6 pack, I may need to make a beer run before the night is through.  Sigh.

mjb.

>From [email-masked]
From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 11:24:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Handbrake Grip

Greetings. Moss and others specify a screw-on grip for the TR2-3 handbrake and
a slide-on for the 4. The thing is, on my 62 TR4, the brake lever has
threads. Do I have an incorrect lever or did Triumph continue to use a TR3
lever on early TR4s? The illustration of the handbrake system in my workshop
manual does not show threads, though Id feel more comfortable drawing
conclusions if it were a photograph.

Thanks.

-- Jeff

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 11:37:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Handbrake Grip

> Greetings. Moss and others specify a screw-on grip for the
> TR2-3 handbrake and
> a slide-on for the 4. The thing is, on my 62 TR4, the brake lever has
> threads. Do I have an incorrect lever or did Triumph continue
> to use a TR3
> lever on early TR4s?

My TR4 SPC shows both part numbers, so I'm pretty sure at least some TR4 had
the earlier threaded lever.  Since no change point is
given (the comment is there but the space for the number is blank), I suspect
that there was no single change point, both types of
lever were fitted more or less at random for some number of cars.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 13:59:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Handbrake Grip
References: <[email-masked]>

My '58 3A and '62 3B both had a slide on grip.
Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 17, 2014, at 1:24 PM, Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton at icloud.com> wrote:

Greetings. Moss and others specify a screw-on grip for the TR2-3 handbrake
and
a slide-on for the 4. The thing is, on my 62 TR4, the brake lever has
threads. Do I have an incorrect lever or did Triumph continue to use a TR3
lever on early TR4s? The illustration of the handbrake system in my workshop
manual does not show threads, though Id feel more comfortable drawing
conclusions if it were a photograph.

Thanks.

-- Jeff

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 15:12:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A gas tank

List:  In order to secure a Surrey top, I have ended up with a pile of TR4
parts  that I didn't really want or need - some 4 and some 4A.  I have a gas
tank for which I have no use, but before I list it on eBay, I need to know
if it is the one for an early 4 versus the one on the late 4s which (at
least according to Moss part numbers) was used on the 4A and 250.  What
distinguishing marks should I be looking for?

Andrew Uprichard

>From [email-masked]
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 13:03:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 oil filter

i have buddies 73 TR6 in may garage that im free to play with. looks nice next to the TR3.
seems 1973 was not the year to own. so many differences from 72 and 74.
so 2 problems.

bought a modern oil filter kit from moss. the existing canister has a hydraulic line that comes out of the canister and goes into the block just below the oil pressure gage sender. of course the moss unit is not set up for this. what is that hydraulic line doing? are all the TR6 like that?

water pump. not available for 1973! may be able to use a later model. anyone tried?

thanks
Frank

>From [email-masked]
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 16:29:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Starting Woes

List:

I have my old motor reinstalled in my 75 TR6 and ready to rock and roll.
All I am getting when turning it over is clicking at the starter relay near
the fuse box.  Battery registers 12.5 volts which I thought would be enough
to turn it over.  The starter relay has been working fine for years, so
might just switch it out with another.  I have both hot wires and ground
attached to starter solenoid just as before.  Original Lucas starter has
worked great all 16 years I have owned the car.  The motor turns over by
hand with a socket on the front of the crank pulley.  Any ideas on
diagnosing the problem would be much appreciated. 

Thanks in advance.

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

75 TR6

62 TR4 x2

68 Land Rover Series II

>From [email-masked]
From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 17:13:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] tires for TR8's

Hey List,
I am about to buy some Japanese tires for the Eight only because
the 185/70/13 size is pretty thin with current offerings.  I would like to
have made in USA or at least Euro brands on the Eight.  I am willing to
alter the size from stock.  Any ideas?
Thanks,
Darrell

>From [email-masked]
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 17:22:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale

The following is from the friend of a friend. I dont know anything else about
it. Contact info at the end.

Allen

1959 TR3A  s/n TS5882L , built Aug 10 1959. Body shell # 1060761. Great driver
owned by rabid enthusiast. $20,000

Powder Blue, Black leather interior (like new), white top, tonneau and s/c
60 spoke WW, new Coker Michelin replica tires

Complete maintenance records from 1978 (4 notebooks)
Engine rebuilt in 1978 at 79,600-runs great,  mi Present mileage-

Included spares:

2 complete engines
2 trannys, rear ends.
New, unused top & tonneau
Several generators and starters, set of 48 spoke wires, wiring harnesses,
ignition parts, instruments, bearing sets, new hydraulic cyls. , new
suspension/steering  bushings, gasket sets, H2O pumps, carbs, switches and
knobs  Rebuild kits for everything rebuildable, misc. trim parts, RR fender,
Roll bar(anti & over) top bow, Misc. trim parts, fasteners, books and manuals,
and memorabilia.

Essentially a garage full of TR stuff, a lifetimes worth. Take all you can
carry.

Car now garaged in Martinsburg WV.
Frank P. Herrera
202-210-3315
frank.herrera515 at comcast.net

>From [email-masked]
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 14:33:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] tires for TR8's
References: <fxGx1o00v0NyJgq01xGzrq>

I am running 15" TR8 wheels on my Honda powered Spit.  They are Panasport 6"
wide and I have Kumho 205/50-R15 tires which are very close in circumference
to the 70 series 13" tires that were on the car.  That would keep the speedo
very close to accuracy.

I made that change because there is a dwindling supply of 13" performance
tires, since that size is currently only supplied on cheap econo-boxes.

Joe

>From [email-masked]
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 15:35:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale
References: <[email-masked]>

Allen Hess wrote:
> The following is from the friend of a friend. I dont know anything else about
> it. Contact info at the end.

> Car now garaged in Martinsburg WV.
> Frank P. Herrera
> 202-210-3315
> frank.herrera515 at comcast.net

Name seems familiar, perhaps a former list subscriber?

mjb.

>From [email-masked]
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 17:56:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] tires for TR8's
References: <[email-masked]>

Darrell

We have 185/70 13 Vredestein Quatrac3 on Caroline's TR8 - they were on the car
last time you saw it at San Rafael
They are very good tires - better than some of the 205/60 13s we used to use
when you could still get them.

Cheers,
Jack Mc

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 14:59:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 2:35 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

>
> Frank P. Herrera
> 202-210-3315
> frank.herrera515 at comcast.net
>
>
> Name seems familiar, perhaps a former list subscriber
>

We have a John Herrera on the list.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 16:59:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A gas tank
References: <[email-masked]>

I believe the early tank has a vent tube on the top and the later ones don't 
Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 18:13:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A gas tank
References: <[email-masked]>
 <3D99E3AEA793436882008D430DD7EC9E@livingroompc>

Greg:  Thank you and thanks also to the others who confirm this is the only
difference.

Andrew

>From [email-masked]
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 19:02:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale
References: <[email-masked]>

I remember the car, as I recall it was a very nice car. Frank is John's 
brother. John passed away a few years ago, rest in piece John, a wonderful 
guy.
JVV

>From [email-masked]
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 20:00:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale
References: <[email-masked]>

TS5882L wouldn't be a valid commission number for a 1959, or for a TR3A 
at all. Misprint?

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

1957 Triumph TR3
1961 Jaguar Mark 2
1975 Triumph TR6
1997 Land Rover Discovery

>From [email-masked]
From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 20:00:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 oil filter

That is not what my 73 TR6 filter looks like. And yes, only the later water pump with the dual groove pulley is available. It functions just fine.

T-Mobile. Americabs First Nationwide 4G Network

Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

>i have buddies 73 TR6 in may garage that im free to play with. looks nice next to the TR3.
>seems 1973 was not the year to own. so many differences from 72 and 74.
>so 2 problems.
>
>bought a modern oil filter kit from moss. the existing canister has a hydraulic line that comes out of the canister and goes into the block just below the oil pressure gage sender. of course the moss unit is not set up for this. what is that hydraulic line doing? are all the TR6 like that?
>
>water pump. not available for 1973! may be able to use a later model. anyone tried?
>
>thanks
>Frank

>From [email-masked]
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 20:54:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Starting Woes
References: <[email-masked]>

Two things:
 
Starter Relay
 
Ground Strap to the engine (from drivers side
firewall to the engine). 

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 3:31 PM, James
Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

List:

I have my old motor
reinstalled in my 75 TR6 and ready to rock and roll.
All I am getting when
turning it over is clicking at the starter relay near
the fuse box.  Battery
registers 12.5 volts which I thought would be enough
to turn it over.  The
starter relay has been working fine for years, so
might just switch it out
with another.  I have both hot wires and ground
attached to starter solenoid
just as before.  Original Lucas starter has
worked great all 16 years I have
owned the car.  The motor turns over by
hand with a socket on the front of the
crank pulley.  Any ideas on
diagnosing the problem would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

75 TR6

62 TR4 x2

68 Land Rover
Series II

>From [email-masked]
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 06:04:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale
References: <[email-masked]>,
 <C9C039976D7143B0BE492F24EE36B700@VlackTK121647>

Agree completely, John was a great guy.  Not sure this link will make it
through, but here is a picture from a couple of years ago at Watkins Glen
where I was able to visit with him.

http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/powderblue/powderblueherreraj.htm

Randy

> I remember the car, as I recall it was a very nice car. Frank is John's
> brother. John passed away a few years ago, rest in piece John, a wonderful
> guy.
> JVV

>From [email-masked]
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 15:27:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale
References: <[email-masked]>

On Aug 17, 2014, at 8:00 PM, George Richardson <gpr at key-men.com> wrote:

> 
> TS5882L wouldn't be a valid commission number for a 1959, or for a TR3A 
> at all. Misprint?
> 
> George Richardson

TS56882L

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

>From [email-masked]
From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 15:07:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Handbrake Grip

Thanks to all those who replied to my email about the threads on my TR4
handbrake lever. Thanks especially to Randall. It never occurred to me to use
the Stanpart catalog like that. I had lots of fun going it looking for part
changes that aren't mentioned in Piggott's book.

-- Jeff

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 19:41:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] stator tube and boss

hi, all.  apparently the plastic boss on the top of the stator tube for my tr3
needs repair/replacement.

recommendations?

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 1:18:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] stator tube and boss

---- dave n <dave at ranteer.com> wrote: 
> hi, all.  apparently the plastic boss on the top of the stator tube for my tr3
> needs repair/replacement.

Uh, what plastic boss?  The stator tube is all steel, the top just has a slot that engages some notches inside the control head assembly.

Or are you talking about the control head assembly itself?  Repair is pretty much limited to cleaning and lubrication, but mine does seem to need that every 5-10 years.  Replacements are available from the usual suspects.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 21:30:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] stator tube and boss
References: <[email-masked]>

Can you identify the part on the Moss Motors page?
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29140

I am not remembering a plastic portion of the stator tube.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN

> hi, all.  apparently the plastic boss on the top of the stator tube for my
> tr3
> needs repair/replacement.
>
> recommendations?

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 21:30:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] stator tube and boss
References: <20140819011841.SSKJF.354825.root@cdptpa-web04>

sorry for the terminology mixup - itbs the control head.  that fits on the 
stator tube . . . .moss 667-480

is there someone who refurbishes them?

>From [email-masked]
From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 08:20:57 +0100
Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change?

This is a strictly non-political post but to be forewarned is to be
forearmed:)

For those of you whose clubs feature the Union Flag (Union Jack) in their
imageries, on 14th September the citizens of Scotland are going to vote in a
referendum (yawn) on whether to seek independence from England and Wales -
or not. If they win, this means the 'Saltire' - the Scottish flag with a
blue background and diagonal white crosses would strictly no longer be part
of the wider and better known Union flag. Knowing how many on this list
strive for keeping things accurate, retaining the Union flag image on club
promotionals could leave y'all seriously out of date :) If nothing else, a
club committee debate might be in order here to review the opportunities
over a few six packs and masquerade it all as a tech session.

Jonmac
(Descended from a nasty gang of Scottish cattle rustlers and wife traders)

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 07:39:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change?
References: <[email-masked]>

I'm as much a Scot as the next fellow, and a big fan of independence,
but...  It seems to me that to be historically accurate, we need to
fly the flag that was in place when our cars were built,  Thus, I
won't have to change the fender decals on my TR6.

On second thought, perhaps we should have another uisge and discuss it further?

Jeff Scarbrough - but my mother was a Gordon
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

>From [email-masked]
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 08:04:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change?
References: <[email-masked]>

And when Northern Ireland breaks away you will be stuck with the old 
red on
white English flag.  How drab.

Another icon bites the dust.

Dave
Clan
Matheson
Chairman, Piping and Drumming Competition
St. Louis Scottish Games
and Cultural Festival.

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 06:22:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change?
References: <[email-masked]>

On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 12:20 AM, John Macartney <
john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:

> Knowing how many on this list strive for keeping things accurate,
> retaining the Union flag image on club
> promotionals could leave y'all seriously out of date :)

Perfect for me, 'seriously out of date' pretty much sums up my position on
things automotive.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 09:23:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change?
References: <[email-masked]>

My ancestors left Scotland during some unpleasantness called the highland
clearance - or something like that. I atone to my ancestors for owning English
cars by keeping a Union Jack doormat at the front door for all guests to wipe
their feet on.
If the Cross of St Andrews is removed from the Union Jack, I'll obviously want
to get a new door mat.

Tongue firmly in cheek,
Jack Mc

>From [email-masked]
From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 08:55:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change?
References: <[email-masked]>

Either way, I will still fly my Red Ensign when the mood strikes me.

I care not which way Scotland votes.

In the case of Ireland, though, 26+6=1

-- 
pethier at comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com

>From [email-masked]
From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 15:00:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] Whitewall Radial 165R15

Hi,

The bias-ply "Universal" wide whitewall tires on our 1956 TR3 still look great
but are 20+ years old and need to be replaced.

I'm inclined to go with radials this time around and see three wide white
radials offerings on the COKER tire site:
  - Coker @ $160
  - B F Goodrich @ $194
  - American Classic @ $192

I'm inclined to go with the Coker version.

Anyone have experience with any of these or maybe another 165R15 from another
vendor?

I'm running Dayton wire wheels so will be using tubes.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Cheers,

Brian
_______________________________________________________________________
   Brian Thomas                    E-mail:
   92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
   Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01 XKR,
75 John Deere 920
   CANADA   K0H 2Y0

>From [email-masked]
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 09:04:49 -0600
Subject: [TR] GT6's

Morning all,
  I have a pair of GT6's for selling.. One is a '67 builder. The other a 
mostly complete GT6+ ('68) They are mostly rust free save the usual 
rocker issues (pretty easy to fix) Both have clear AZ titles. The GT6+ 
is worth more, but will sell for $1500 (you fetch it) The '67 goes for 
$500 a bit more if you want the engine/gearbox, which is currently out.. 
again you fetch it. Have a limited number of pictures. Send requests off 
Mark's already overburdened server..
My contact info is below..
dave
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

>From [email-masked]
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 08:23:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change?
References: <[email-masked]>

So if Scotland votes to become free, will that mean that the British 
army will withdraw from occupying Castle Edinburgh?

I don't have a horse in this race but I much prefer the Lion Rampant 
royal standard to the Cross of St Andrew.  It has more character.

TeriAnn

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 10:31:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Whitewall Radial 165R15
References: <[email-masked]>

I went with Diamondback white walls, they used a Nankang tire.  Very
satisfied.  www.dbtires.com

NFI,
Bill N

>From [email-masked]
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 11:45:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change?
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

And from the deep water lochs where they park their subs when not at 
sea.
And then the arguments begins as to who, exactly, has rights to the 
North
Sea oil.

The Lion Rampant is a very iconic flag, as well, and quite
attractive.  
As such it is frequently used in inappropriate situations.  For
example, the Lion Rampant is to be flown only when the Queen is in
residence.  If Scotland goes independent the queen may no longer summer 
in
Balmoral Castle and fly the Lion rampant.  Perhaps she can summer in
Caerphilly Castle and fly the Welsh Dragon, another striking flag.

;-)
Dave

>From [email-masked]
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 12:50:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission

1971 TR6 non-overdrive transmission.  Driving back to work last Friday from
lunch, about 1/2-mile out rolled up to a stop sign in neutral.  Stopped, went
to put into first, would not go.  would not go into 2nd, 3rd or 4th.  Let the
clutch out in neutral, revved the motor,it went into 1st, shifted to 2nd OK.
Got back to work. End of the day, drove home.  The first time I shifted into
2nd, got a slight grind, back to neutral, tried again, went no problem.  Drove
home with no problems.One time hang up or something serious?Thoughts..Peter
Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

>From [email-masked]
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 15:07:06 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission

 Peter, been there myself on my 72 TR6.

Check master and slave and see if they are leaking.  If not, try putting the bar in the other hole available and see if it gets better.  If it does, you may be like me and headed for a transmission rebuild.

I went through several masters and slaves, and rode in the wrong hole for 2 years before I had to take the plunge.

Just my thoughts.

Craig

On 08/19/14, Peter Arakelian<peterara at msn.com> wrote:
 
1971 TR6 non-overdrive transmission. Driving back to work last Friday from
lunch, about 1/2-mile out rolled up to a stop sign in neutral. Stopped, went
to put into first, would not go. would not go into 2nd, 3rd or 4th. Let the
clutch out in neutral, revved the motor,it went into 1st, shifted to 2nd OK.
Got back to work. End of the day, drove home. The first time I shifted into
2nd, got a slight grind, back to neutral, tried again, went no problem. Drove
home with no problems.One time hang up or something serious?Thoughts..Peter
Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 13:07:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission
References: <[email-masked]>

Peter -

As a starting point, a bleed of the clutch hydraulics might be in order.

If there is a bit of air in there repeated pumping can compress it enough
that the system will work for awhile.

Could be other things, but a bleed takes only minutes.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 18:27:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission
References: <[email-masked]>

Broken clevis pin would be a place to look.

>From [email-masked]
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 20:02:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission
References: <[email-masked]>
 <87B04D8BE91748A18FE610D1C204A4C2@VlackTK121647>

+1 on the broken fork pin. I have seen several and the reduce effective
travel dramatically.

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 20:28:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission
References: <[email-masked]>
 <87B04D8BE91748A18FE610D1C204A4C2@VlackTK121647>
 <[email-masked]>

I agree with the others, would be odd if the tranny wouldn't go into all 
four gears suddenly, then would again because of something internal, plus 
the external issues are easier to check (although you would have to pull the 
tranny to address the clutch fork pin, and I think the external issues are 
also more likely.  If it happens again check reverse (carefully) if it 
starts to crunch your clutch is not disengaging, pointing to back to 
hydraulics or the dreaded clutch fork pin.

Greg Lemon
TR250

>From [email-masked]
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 18:36:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr6 transmission

   Gotten several responses centering around the clutch not releasing - bleed
the cylinders, change holes.  The clutch works.  I can press the pedal down
with car in first, or any gear, foot off the brake and it will not move.
driving down the road, I can press pedal and revs go up well before end of
travel.  The clutch is disengaging the trans from motor.

Any other thoughts?

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

>From [email-masked]
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 18:59:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission
References: <[email-masked]>

Sounds like it's time to call Herman Van Den Aker :)

>From [email-masked]
From: skip47 at gbis.com (Skip Gurnee)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 19:02:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr6 transmission
References: <[email-masked]>

Drain the transmission oil through a sieve and examine what comes out 
besides oil.  Stick your finger in the hole to feel what's loose and too big 
to drip out.
Skip Gurnee
64 TR4, 66TR4A

-----Original Message----- 
From: Peter Arakelian
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 6:36 PM
To: Listers
Subject: [TR] tr6 transmission

   Gotten several responses centering around the clutch not releasing - 
bleed
the cylinders, change holes.  The clutch works.  I can press the pedal down
with car in first, or any gear, foot off the brake and it will not move.
driving down the road, I can press pedal and revs go up well before end of
travel.  The clutch is disengaging the trans from motor.

Any other thoughts?

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

>From [email-masked]
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 05:14:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission
References: <[email-masked]>

Disclaimer:  I know nothing...nothing...about transmissions.  So of course I want to chime in.

Am I correct that each gear on a six has its own individual synchro?  If so, would they be apt to all go out at once?

I'm wondering about the linkage from the shift lever to the box.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

>The first time I shifted into
>2nd, got a slight grind, back to neutral, tried again, went no problem.  Drove
>home with no problems.One time hang up or something serious?Thoughts

>From [email-masked]
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 03:02:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission
References: <[email-masked]>

It may be that the bronze top hat bushing for second gear came apart.

mjb.

ps: 6pack list is working again, which I may have mentioned already.

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 10:12:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission
References: <[email-masked]>

Sounds to me like the clutch disk is sticking to the flywheel.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

>From [email-masked]
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 09:20:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Or the input shaft is binding on the pilot bushing.  My son has a 98 Ford 
pickup that had similar behavior, turned out to be a failed pilot bearing.

>From [email-masked]
From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 12:22:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission

The next time that it happens turn off the engine with the pedal still 
depressed and see if it will go into gear then. That should tell you 
whether it is a clutch or transmission issue.

My Stag does this now and then and my opinion is it is an oil soaked 
clutch plate.  The rear main is damaged. Every now and then 
particularlywhen the motor is cold it will exhibit similar behavior.  It 
will go into 4th with a bit of effort and then once you get it rolling 
at all it is easy enough to get into first gear.  It's just the oil 
holding the plate to the flywheel.

I would tend to think that if it was a broken pivot pin you would have 
the problem all the time rather than intermittently. The same for low 
fluid or defective hydraulics. Of interest I have seen a worn master 
that when the pedal was moved quickly would pull air into the system 
through the worn seals.  Made it almost impossible to bleed.

Did the clutch pedal feel any different when it happened?

Edward Hamer
PetalumaCA

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 15:00:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission
References: <[email-masked]>

I will interject a small comment here.

my daughter's 350Z occasionally (as in once or twice every couple of hours 
of driving) would simply refuse to go into gear.  work with it a minute or 
two, and then it would work just fine.  also, very intermittantly, the 
clutch pedal would not come back up.

she researched it, and found it was likely in the hydraulics.  we took it to 
a mechanic, and he also said it sounded like an issue with the master clutch 
cylinder.  he of course could not get it to misbehave.   I had him replace 
the slave at the same time, and the problem has gone away.  maybe that's 
just a nissan, or maybe its relevant, I don't know.

-----Original Message----- 
From: hdrider570 at att.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 2:22 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission

The next time that it happens turn off the engine with the pedal still
depressed and see if it will go into gear then. That should tell you
whether it is a clutch or transmission issue.

My Stag does this now and then and my opinion is it is an oil soaked
clutch plate.  The rear main is damaged. Every now and then
particularlywhen the motor is cold it will exhibit similar behavior.  It
will go into 4th with a bit of effort and then once you get it rolling
at all it is easy enough to get into first gear.  It's just the oil
holding the plate to the flywheel.

I would tend to think that if it was a broken pivot pin you would have
the problem all the time rather than intermittently. The same for low
fluid or defective hydraulics. Of interest I have seen a worn master
that when the pedal was moved quickly would pull air into the system
through the worn seals.  Made it almost impossible to bleed.

Did the clutch pedal feel any different when it happened? 

>From [email-masked]
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2014 11:12:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission

Want to thank all for suggestions, comments.
The problem is not clutch related.  The pedal has not changed in feel or
travel, the trans can be heard to slow to a stop when in neutral and the
clutch is depressed.
I spoke with John at Quantum Mechanics in CT, they do a lot of British
trannies including TR6.  His thoughts were the problem was in the top cover.
Perhaps the fork or detent got hung up when I shifted out of 2nd to neutral
when rolling up to the stop.  When I revved in neutral, it was enough to
realign or jog the hanging bit.
All was well driving home last Friday.  We'll see how it is tomorrow when I
drive in to work.
Peter

>From [email-masked]
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 09:46:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption

When I bought my TR4 back in 2010 it came with a TriuimphTune alloy valve
cover.  While nice looking, the fact that it has no baffle or screen over
the breather tube going to the carburetors causes oil consumption to
increase.  I've been doing some google searching and have come up with
several possible solutions on how to create a baffle.

One involves epoxying an aluminum baffle over the opening, another uses
some wire and a small aluminum plate held in place over the hole.  Still
another was adding a small baffle over the opening by riveting it in place
with solid aluminum rivets.  And finally someone apparently has wrapped a
screen over the discharge end of the tube and and then pushed the hose over
it.

I'm sort of partial to the aluminum plate and rivet idea although I'm not
keen on drilling holes in the valve cover.  However I might try the screen
method since it would be a quick and dirty test.

Has anyone tried a different solution to what I've listed?  If so I'd love
to hear about it.

Thanks,

Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 09:48:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4

My 63 TR4 came with the starter solenoid (round with pushbutton) mounted on
the front of the firewall near the rear carburetor.  It currently only has
one screw holding it in place and it just seems like an odd location.

Could someone possibly send me a picture of where the solenoid is actually
supposed to be installed?

Thanks!

Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (cliff_hansen at earthlink.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 09:53:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4

Sent.  Passengers side on battery hold down.  Cliff

---- Original Message ----
From: "Brad Kahler" <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
Date: 08/22/14 9:48 AM
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: 
Sub: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4
My 63 TR4 came with the starter solenoid (round with pushbutton) mounted on
the front of the firewall near the rear carburetor.  It currently only has
one screw holding it in place and it just seems like an odd location.

Could someone possibly send me a picture of where the solenoid is actually
supposed to be installed?

Thanks!

Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 10:01:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4
References: <[email-masked]>

Wow!  three responses in five minutes, two with pictures!

I believe I have enough information to work with now.

Thanks!!!

Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 08:19:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption
References: <CADm3DLFDAW7k1K0cp8E-=[email-masked]>

It's all about crankcase ventilation. If you have excess discharge 
issues, then you likely have other issues.
Worn rings, worn rocker bushing, overfilled sump, aux. top end oiler 
kit.. In other words, I find it hard to believe it's the design of the 
cover outlet..
  Dave
On 8/22/2014 7:46 AM, Brad Kahler wrote:
> When I bought my TR4 back in 2010 it came with a TriuimphTune alloy valve
> cover.  While nice looking, the fact that it has no baffle or screen over
> the breather tube going to the carburetors causes oil consumption to
> increase.  I've been doing some google searching and have come up with
> several possible solutions on how to create a baffle.
>
> One involves epoxying an aluminum baffle over the opening, another uses
> some wire and a small aluminum plate held in place over the hole.  Still
> another was adding a small baffle over the opening by riveting it in place
> with solid aluminum rivets.  And finally someone apparently has wrapped a
> screen over the discharge end of the tube and and then pushed the hose over
> it.
>
> I'm sort of partial to the aluminum plate and rivet idea although I'm not
> keen on drilling holes in the valve cover.  However I might try the screen
> method since it would be a quick and dirty test.
>
> Has anyone tried a different solution to what I've listed?  If so I'd love
> to hear about it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 08:15:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4
References: <CADm3DLFHcNcsO=[email-masked]>

It is my understanding that originally the TR4 solenoid was mounted about
where you describe and then (at some point) was moved up out of there
because of possible effects of heat.

here's a pic of the solenoid in that spot:  http://goo.gl/Su3udD

I have experienced no problems with having it in that location.

I do not know the change point offhand.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 11:21:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4
References: <CADm3DLFHcNcsO=[email-masked]>

 There was a Service Bulletin on this topic, T-64-32, a copy of which may be
found at

<http://www.tr3a.info/PDFs/1964.pdf>

It involved moving the
solenoid to the right to avoid possible seepage from the rear carburetor. This
may or may not be relevant to your particular car?

--Andy Mace

*Mrs
Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet,
it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines
Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6
vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check
out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 08:22:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption
References: <CADm3DLFDAW7k1K0cp8E-=[email-masked]>

If your TR4 lacks the crankcase breather tube that may be at the root of
your problem.

That tube was deleted (and the hole plugged) at some point in TR4
production.  About the same time the oil fill cap went from the breather
style to a sealed cap.

Alas, that little spout and hoses to the air cleaners do not seem up to the
task of relieving crankcase pressure - at least that was the case on my
engine.  As a result, mine was seeping oil out of every crack & pore.

I installed an original crankcase breather tube (like a TR3) and that took
care of everything (except a minor real seal leak).

Geo

On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 6:46 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> When I bought my TR4 back in 2010 it came with a TriuimphTune alloy valve
> cover.  While nice looking, the fact that it has no baffle or screen over
> the breather tube going to the carburetors causes oil consumption to
> increase.  I've been doing some google searching and have come up with
> several possible solutions on how to create a baffle.
>
> One involves epoxying an aluminum baffle over the opening, another uses
> some wire and a small aluminum plate held in place over the hole.  Still
> another was adding a small baffle over the opening by riveting it in place
> with solid aluminum rivets.  And finally someone apparently has wrapped a
> screen over the discharge end of the tube and and then pushed the hose over
> it.
>
> I'm sort of partial to the aluminum plate and rivet idea although I'm not
> keen on drilling holes in the valve cover.  However I might try the screen
> method since it would be a quick and dirty test.
>
> Has anyone tried a different solution to what I've listed?  If so I'd love
> to hear about it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 13:08:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption
References: <CADm3DLFDAW7k1K0cp8E-=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

None of the issues you mentioned are present.  The lack of baffle on the
alloy covers is a well documented problem and one that I am experiencing.
 I'm just looking for the easiest and cleanest method of keeping the oil
spray out of the valve cover breather tube.

On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 10:19 AM, David Porter <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
wrote:

> It's all about crankcase ventilation. If you have excess discharge issues,
> then you likely have other issues.
> Worn rings, worn rocker bushing, overfilled sump, aux. top end oiler kit..
> In other words, I find it hard to believe it's the design of the cover
> outlet..
>  Dave
> On 8/22/2014 7:46 AM, Brad Kahler wrote:
>
>> When I bought my TR4 back in 2010 it came with a TriuimphTune alloy valve
>> cover.  While nice looking, the fact that it has no baffle or screen over
>> the breather tube going to the carburetors causes oil consumption to
>> increase.  I've been doing some google searching and have come up with
>> several possible solutions on how to create a baffle.
>>
>> One involves epoxying an aluminum baffle over the opening, another uses
>> some wire and a small aluminum plate held in place over the hole.  Still
>> another was adding a small baffle over the opening by riveting it in place
>> with solid aluminum rivets.  And finally someone apparently has wrapped a
>> screen over the discharge end of the tube and and then pushed the hose
>> over
>> it.
>>
>> I'm sort of partial to the aluminum plate and rivet idea although I'm not
>> keen on drilling holes in the valve cover.  However I might try the screen
>> method since it would be a quick and dirty test.
>>
>> Has anyone tried a different solution to what I've listed?  If so I'd love
>> to hear about it.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Brad
>>

>From [email-masked]
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 13:11:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption
References: <CADm3DLFDAW7k1K0cp8E-=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Geo,

Not sure when Triumph switched but My TR4 has the road draft tube. I'm
fairly certain my problem is just one in which the oil being splashed into
the breather tube on the valve cover.

Brad

On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 11:22 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> If your TR4 lacks the crankcase breather tube that may be at the root of
> your problem.
>
> That tube was deleted (and the hole plugged) at some point in TR4
> production.  About the same time the oil fill cap went from the breather
> style to a sealed cap.
>
> Alas, that little spout and hoses to the air cleaners do not seem up to
> the task of relieving crankcase pressure - at least that was the case on my
> engine.  As a result, mine was seeping oil out of every crack & pore.
>
> I installed an original crankcase breather tube (like a TR3) and that took
> care of everything (except a minor real seal leak).
>
> Geo
>

>From [email-masked]
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 13:26:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4
References: <CADm3DLFHcNcsO=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Andy,

I'm betting you remembered exactly where to find that service bulletin :)

It is relevant to my car but for the moment I'll leave it in the original
location.  I never realized that mine had a round golf cart style of
solenoid which also had a different spacing than the lucas solenoid. On top
of that some po used a sheet metal screw in the top hole and the solenoid
was covering the bottom hole. I have a used lucas solenoid that I am going
to try and I was also successful in retapping the original mounting holes.
 Now I just hope that old solenoid is still good!

I find it interesting that Triumph didn't want to pay the service shop
anything extra to move the solenoid 4" to the right.  I wonder if that
logic would work with current factory service shops.

Thanks!

Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 10:43:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4
References: <CADm3DLFHcNcsO=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Whatever you end up doing, bear in mind that the solenoid needs to be
grounded by its mounting.  If the body/bracket is not getting a good ground
it will not operate.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: michaelmarr5258 at comcast.net (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 17:46:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Project for sale

Folks:

After much careful rumination (no, that is not Carry Nation's alcoholic
brother), I have decided that I will probably never finish the
restoration of my TR3A project and I am, therefore, offering the whole
shebang for sale.  It consists of:

1)  The car - complete but in the very early stages of disassembly.
However, by simply putting the wheels back on it can be rolled onto a
trailer.  It is a post 60000 car and needs new floors on both sides, new
fender patch panels and some repair work to the vertical front panels of
the rear seat/parcel shelf.  Of course it will need new paint.  The
frame appears to be solid and I rebuilt the front suspension and
installed new rear shocks many years (but only  few thousand miles) ago.
2)  The following additional parts:
             a)    a new set of 2.2 liter liners and pistons
             b)    a reground crankshaft with crank and rod bearings
             c)    a replacement camshaft of unknown lift or duration.  I
was told that it might be a "mild street" cam
             d)    a lightened flywheel, sold to me by Joe Alexander
             e)    a 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust manifold
             f)    A solid hood (post 60000)
             g)    a solid front apron, also post 60000
             h)    An overdrive gearbox, supposedly in working condition,
although I have never installed it so I cannot say
             i)    Two extra sets of wire wheels (used).  These are both
60 spoke, while the wheels on the car are the original 48 spoke
             j)    a few other odds and ends

I think the whole package is worth maybe $5,000 to $6,000 and would be
willing to consider offers in that range.  I believe the additional
parts are probably worth half of that amount, alone.

I have no interest in selling parts of the package - it is all or
nothing.  The car is in Plainfield, IL, and if you are interested in
looking at it, please contact me directly at michaelmarr5258 at comcast.net

Mike

>From [email-masked]
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 12:53:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption
 mail.com>
References: <CADm3DLFDAW7k1K0cp8E-=[email-masked]>

I can't comment on which solution is the best from any personal 
experience, but I'd be inclined to epoxy something to the inside of 
the cover instead of riveting it mainly for cosmetic reasons (no 
holes to drill in the cover).  I'd think about likely paths for oil 
to be slung and look to block those with the baffle.

Tony Drews

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 13:27:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] new overdrive

just landed here.  its got three switches on top; Ibm not sure which is
which.  I think I know which is the overdrive switch, and then one is the
backup, and the other is a cutout that keeps it from engaging in first and
reverse?

http://www.ranteer.com/misc1/

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 14:31:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption
References: <CADm3DLFDAW7k1K0cp8E-=[email-masked]>

On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 9:46 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> Has anyone tried a different solution to what I've listed?  If so I'd love
> to hear about it.

I don't have any experience, but I'm thinking a properly shaped piece
of fairly springy metal could be wedged in right under the hole.  If
you wanted to get fancy, you could slightly notch the inside of the
cover to provide a sort of ledge or niche that the edges of the metal
could spring into for added security.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 17:09:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption
References: <CADm3DLFDAW7k1K0cp8E-=[email-masked]>
 <CAO8Q7CMCcwSCG9RqGGj=[email-masked]>

Another alternative would be to install a catch tank between the valve cover 
tube and the PCV valve? The new MOSS catalog has one for about $130.00.
Dave Connitt

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 22:40:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] new overdrive

---- dave n <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> just landed here.  its got three switches on top; Ibm not sure which is
> which.  I think I know which is the overdrive switch, and then one is the
> backup, and the other is a cutout that keeps it from engaging in first and
> reverse?

A-type OD uses two lockout switches.  Although they are called "lockout", in
fact they enable the OD when they are closed.  One switch closes when in 3rd
or 4th gear, the other switch closes in 2nd gear.  Making OD available in 2nd,
3rd and 4th.

The switch nearest the left side is the backup light switch.  The one nearest
the right side is the 2nd gear OD switch.  The one in the middle is for 3rd &
4th.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 20:32:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spin on Oil Filter Leak

List:

The old original motor (80k miles and tired) is back in the TR6 and purring
like a kitten.  I am amazed after 11 years in a box with regular oil squirts
and turning the crank that the motor started up.  Ok, there is a bit of
smoke but better smoke out the exhaust than engine bits.  My starting issue
was due to a bad starter relay.  Forgot that I had Dan Masters book and it
was a great help in diagnosing a non-functioning starter.    It has been a
joy (I think) of re-learning how to identify top dead center on the
compression stroke and getting the firing order correct with the plug wires
and dizzy.  After 11 years there was no gap when I checked the valve
clearance, so rest all of those.  

Here is my question.  I have a spin on oil filter unit and put in a new
rubber seal before mounting to block.  I am getting a pretty good leak
between the block and adapter seal.  I tightened a bit more but still
leaking.  Is there a trick to getting this unit to not leak.  I had it on my
previous motor without a leak.  Do I need some sealant?  

One step closer to getting the car to VTR!  

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL 

62 TR4 x2

75 TR6

68 Land Rover 88

>From [email-masked]
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 21:00:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption
References: <CADm3DLFDAW7k1K0cp8E-=[email-masked]>
 <CAO8Q7CMCcwSCG9RqGGj=[email-masked]>
 <9B1ACBD62FCB44C9834C0B59DA5BC68B@DaveLaptop>

and the rice rocket catalog and Ebay in the 30-40 range.
ptegler

On 8/22/2014 5:09 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> Another alternative would be to install a catch tank between the valve 
> cover tube and the PCV valve? The new MOSS catalog has one for about 
> $130.00.
> Dave Connitt

>From [email-masked]
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 09:47:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spin on Oil Filter Leak
References: <201408230318592.SM1125270@MAIL2>

Mike and others.  Thanks for the replies.  I am going to drain the oil today
and recheck and test as described.  I did remove old seal from block.  Jim
Henningsen

From:[email-masked]
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:15:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4
References: <CADm3DLFHcNcsO=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

I must have gotten a good ground as the new (old!) solenoid works like a
charm.

Thanks!

Brad

On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 1:43 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> Whatever you end up doing, bear in mind that the solenoid needs to be
> grounded by its mounting.  If the body/bracket is not getting a good ground
> it will not operate.
>
> Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:20:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption
References: <CADm3DLFDAW7k1K0cp8E-=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Tony & All,

Working from a tip from Irv I went out and bought a PCV valve that I was
able to add into the line from the valve cover to the carburetor flame
arrestor.  My TR4 has the mid production emissions setup and my first test
drive with the PCV valve installed was good.  What I found interesting was
my idle RPM dropped from 800 to 600 once I installed the PCV valve.

I'd rather not install a catch tank as I would think if everything is
working right the oil should now stay in the valve cover instead of getting
sucked into the carburetors.  Weather permitting I'm going to take a drive
this afternoon and then see what things look like.

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions!

Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 15:17:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] clutch throwout bearing issue

put in the flywheel:  http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN1184.JPG

put in the clutch: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN1187.JPG

put in the pressure plate: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN1190.JPG

here is the tranny:  http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN1192.JPG

but the throwout bearing seems to just sit, off center.
http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN1191.JPG

we carefully bagged, labeled, and saved all the parts when we took it apart.

here is the bentley manual: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/Bentley.jpg

and the moss page:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32782

what am I missing?  or what is wrong?

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 17:38:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] clutch throwout bearing issue
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

mystery solved.  I am missing the throwout bearing carrier.  it is still 
attached to the old bearing.

>From [email-masked]
From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 07:35:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive transmission

I am restoring a TR4A.  Before I put the OD 4-speed transmission back in the
car, I thought I would check it out for functionality.  I put a 1/2" drill
driver on the input shaft and turned it.  Engaged each gear and saw
different RPM and reverse out the back without any scary noises.  So the
transmission seems OK.  I put 12 volts through the solenoid circuit and saw
the solenoid move the arm at the appropriate second, third, and 4 gear
positions.  But when I spun the input of the trans, I didn't observe any
change in the output of the drive shaft when the solenoid was engaged or
disengaged.  Just as I sat down to write this note I figured out that I need
to check the oil level.  Perhaps even drain and replace the oil.  I haven't
looked at my book yet for recommended oil.  90 weight?

Is there anything else I can check or do prior to installing other than
getting someone to rebuild it?  (Presuming some addition of oil gets the OD
to engage.)

Creig
Creig Houghtlaing 314-401-7817
St. Louis Triumph Owners Association
www.sltoa.org

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 06:45:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive transmission

> I haven't
> looked at my book yet for recommended oil.  90 weight?

90 weight GL4 was the factory recommendation (or 80 if you consistently drive in below freezing weather).  Lots of folks will tell
you 30 weight motor oil, and Triumph used to recommend that.  But they changed around 1960 to the GL4, so they must have had some
reason.  Rumor has it that the GL4 protects the gearbox better and reduced warranty returns.

GL4 is getting hard to find at FLAPS.  Personally, I use Redline MT-90, which is GL4 but also is designed specifically for manual
transmissions.  OD operation seemed about the same, but it definitely had a positive effect on shifting the main box.

> Is there anything else I can check or do prior to installing 
> other than
> getting someone to rebuild it?  

At a minimum, I'd get a pressure gauge and check the pressure, even if it does engage with more oil.  The accumulator spring seems
to get weak with age, leading to low pressure, which can allow the OD to slip under maximum load.  Jay Holecamp sells a pressure
gauge with the funky adapter (replaces the plug above the operating valve) for a reasonable price
http://www.geocities.ws/jholekamp/
Or you can build your own.

Probably also worth draining the old oil, even if it doesn't have very many miles on it.  Check the oil for swarf, and clean the
magnets and pickup screen inside the OD drain plug.  

I recommend building or buying a special wrench for the plug; hitting the ears with a punch & BFH can distort it and lead to leaks
that are hard to fix.  Here's my home-made one
http://goo.gl/cd21oS
In the background of that photo, you can see my previous attempt, just a bar of steel with two bolts at the right spacing and a
little filing on the sides of the bolts.  It worked well enough, but was tough maneuvering under my TR3A, so I made the one in the
foreground (out of a cheap socket sourced from eBay).  Or I believe Moss sells a tool.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 08:47:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive transmission
References: <[email-masked]>

Creig, always an interesting topic with differing opinions, factory 
recommends 90w gear oil, however, most 90w off the shelves these days is GL5 
spec, you want GL4, which you can still get at NAPA stores I think, most 
don't stock it but can get it.  The GL5 has additives that can cause 
corrosion in the brass components of the gearbox.

Craig Esposito at Quantum mechanics recommends a straight 30w non detergent 
motor oil, cheap and usually available at the chain stores or tractor/farm 
supply stores

Many swear by Redline synthetic MT90, I haven't tried it, but have also read 
that it will find any leaks you have in the tranny or overdrive and pour out 
faster than conventional oil, those are expensive leaks, so I have never 
tried it.

Some people run multi-weight motor oils, though this article recommends 
against it.

I have tried all except the MT90, in my opinion both the gear oil and 
non-detergent motor oil work fine, and I detected no noticeable difference 
in shift quality or overdrive engagement, I also used to put in multi-weight 
motor oil, I remember my old TR4A would drop out of O/D on a long run on a 
hot day sometimes, and am wondering if it was from cavitation or foaming as 
described in this article:  http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm 
(scroll down).  I think I may have been running multi-weight 20w-50 at the 
time.

Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 07:01:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive transmission

> I think I may have been running multi-weight 
> 20w-50 at the time.

If you do want to try 20W50, both Ken Gillanders and Herman van den Akker specifically recommend Valvoline Racing oil.  It is low
detergent plus has anti-foaming and ZDDP additives.  I ran it for several years, and had no trouble that I associated with the oil.
(I believe the slipping in 2nd gear was due to low oil pressure.)

Valvoline has changed hands and expanded their "Racing oil" line since then, I assume the non-synthetic, "Not Street Legal" stuff is
the equivalent of what they sold then.  "VR1" apparently has more detergent in it, to meet API requirements.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 15:13:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tie down straps

I'm looking to replace my long used (and abused) car tie down straps.
 Anyone use the thru the wheel type like the ones in this auction?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290968930667

Thanks,

Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 16:25:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle Update

We just fired up the MGB that has been sitting for 30 years - took about an
hour to change oil, filter, replace plugs, jump the double 6 volt battery
and get the engine running. Part of the delay was the SLOW speed that the
engine was turning over. Once the engine was running we very quickly
determined that the water pump was seized which generated a whole lot of
squealing and white smoke. Needless to say we didn't run it for very long.

Lee
Denver CO

>From [email-masked]
From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 18:09:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tie down straps
References: <CADm3DLG=rU=[email-masked]>

I prefer going over the tires.  Does not put holddown stress on the
suspension or frame. Each tire is independently attached to the trailer,
with no contact to any painted or metal parts of the car.

On Sun, Aug 24, 2014 at 2:13 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm looking to replace my long used (and abused) car tie down straps.
>  Anyone use the thru the wheel type like the ones in this auction?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290968930667
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad

-- 
pethier at comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com

>From [email-masked]
From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 18:30:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] Lights-on ignition-off alarm

Current cars have an alarm when you leave you lights on when the ignition
is off.
Does anyone know of an aftermarket device that will perform this function
for a TR6?
The Rocky Mountain Triumph club had a wonderful drive from Golden to
Leadville this weekend and twice I had forgotten to turn my lights off.

Side Note: 5 pounds of boost is a wonderful thing at 11000+ feet - 70 mph
in 5th gear!

Thanks Much in advance.

Lee Janssen
Denver CO

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 18:14:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lights-on ignition-off alarm
References: <CAA90-EBs46S_ZjdxOJx-KrJ=[email-masked]>

Does the TR6 have an 'ignition on, seatbelt not fastened' warning buzzer?
Or an 'key in ignition, door open warning buzzer'?  Either of those set-ups
are commonly hacked to make a 'your lights are still on' buzzer.

Geo

On Sun, Aug 24, 2014 at 5:30 PM, Lee Janssen <lee.k.janssen at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Current cars have an alarm when you leave you lights on when the ignition
> is off.
> Does anyone know of an aftermarket device that will perform this function
> for a TR6?
> The Rocky Mountain Triumph club had a wonderful drive from Golden to
> Leadville this weekend and twice I had forgotten to turn my lights off.
>
> Side Note: 5 pounds of boost is a wonderful thing at 11000+ feet - 70 mph
> in 5th gear!
>
> Thanks Much in advance.
>
> Lee Janssen
> Denver CO

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 18:42:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lights-on ignition-off alarm

> Current cars have an alarm when you leave you lights on when 
> the ignition
> is off.
> Does anyone know of an aftermarket device that will perform 
> this function
> for a TR6?

Here's a couple of ways to roll your own:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et245.htm

You could also do the first solution with an in-line diode rather than the relay.

There have been times when I wanted to leave the lights on, without listening to the buzzer, so my preference would be to include an
easy way to defeat it.  One solution might be a big capacitor in series, so it would just chirp once as you turned the key off, then
shut up.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 11:55:39 +0100
Subject: [TR] Tie down straps
References: <CADm3DLG=rU=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

IMHO this pic shows the best (and safest) way to secure the car on a
trailer. Handbrake on, gears locked in first or reverse and the strap
enclosing the tyre - one strap set per wheel.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1600&bih=701&q=car+tie+down+straps&oq=car+tie+down+straps&gs_l=img.1.0.0j0i24l3.80.5175.0.9329.17.11.0.5.5.0.352.968.2-1j2.3.0....0...1ac.1.52.img..9.8.1038.q9tBGd-4suM#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=TmkmM1TIHgYjlM%253A%3BMbtLbDcNJYxpVM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.dawson-group.com%252Fdawsongroup%252Fup_files%252F50mm-wide-car-transporter-ratchet-strap-with-claw-hooks-663-p.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.dawson-group.com%252Fdawsongroup%252FApplication%252FCar-Transporter-Straps.htm%3B266%3B230

Next best alternative is a single strap going diagonally up the front of the
tyre, around the top third of the tyre rear and then diagonally down to the
ratchet. Slight deformation of the tyre may result, but a replacement tyre
costs way less to rectify than a deformed front suspension tower or
chassis/frame component.

Jonmac

>From [email-masked]
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 12:15:55 +0100
Subject: [TR] Tie down straps
References: <CADm3DLG=rU=[email-masked]>

Not entirely practical if the wheel slots are not large enough.
Nice colour of Z3.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brad Kahler" <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2014 8:13 PM
Subject: [TR] Tie down straps

> I'm looking to replace my long used (and abused) car tie down straps.
> Anyone use the thru the wheel type like the ones in this auction?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290968930667
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 11:23:52 GMT
Subject: [TR] Lights-on ignition-off alarm

3M used to sell this little kit for around $7 at Walmart but I think thisis
the same thing = no tools required, it just clips to round fuses.
http://www.liteminder.com/index.html
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Lee Janssen <lee.k.janssen at gmail.com>
Subject: [TR] Lights-on ignition-off alarm

Does anyone know of an aftermarket device that will perform this function
for a TR6?

Lee Janssen
Denver CO

>From [email-masked]
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 11:59:58 GMT
Subject: [TR] Tie down straps

We have a new leader in the longest link competition! I tiny -ed it:
http://tinyurl.com/nylchn9

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "John Macartney" <john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tie down straps

IMHO this pic shows the best (and safest) way to secure the car on a
trailer.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1600
&bih=701&q=car+tie+down+straps&oq=car+tie+down+straps&gs_l=img.1.0.0j0i24l3.
80.5175.0.9329.17.11.0.5.5.0.352.968.2-1j2.3.0....0...1ac.1.52.img..9.8.1038
.q9tBGd-4suM#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=TmkmM1TIHgYjlM%253A%3BMbtLbDcNJYxpVM%3Bh
ttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.dawson-group.com%252Fdawsongroup%252Fup_files%252F50mm
-wide-car-transporter-ratchet-strap-with-claw-hooks-663-p.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%25
2F%252Fwww.dawson-group.com%252Fdawsongroup%252FApplication%252FCar-Transpor
ter-Straps.htm%3B266%3B230

>From [email-masked]
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 12:39:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive transmission
References: <21.2A.24565.C20F9F35@cdptpa-oedge01>

from the healey list...

There is a good if brief article in this month's issue of "Vintage
Motorsports" dealing with lube choices for both transmissions and
differentials.  Though the article does not go into matters such as what
metals like what GL ratings it does confirm that 75-90 transmission oil is
approximately equal in viscosity to 10w-40 engine oils and is the right
choice for most of us.

Worth a read--Michael Oritt

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

>From [email-masked]
From: roadwarriordave at hotmail.com (Dave Murphy)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 15:27:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Getting my Moss Supercharger to Run Correctly on My TR6
References: <[email-masked]>

Would anyone who has the Eaton M62 supercharger with 2 barrel Holly carb that
Moss sells please let me know what they did to get their car to run properly
and still produce more power than stock.
I put one of these on my '76 TR6 in 2008 and at stock timing settings with the
as-supplied standard jets in the carb, the car would make extra power above
2800 rpm, but it would not run smoothly below 2200 rpm, and unless I was
extremely slow in applying throttle when taking off from rest, it backfired
scratchy soot back through the supercharger that usually took a few minutes to
clear. There was not one day in the previous 6 years that I was able to drive
it without backfiring at least once, until we retarded the timing and put jets
4 sizes richer in place. Now driveability is great - starts great, runs well
at low revs, but there's a lot of black smoke out the exhaust, the oil gets
dirty quicker and I doubt it produces any more that stock horsepower. And it
won't go above 4000 rpm without bucking.
-Dave Murphy
Dearborn MI

>From [email-masked]
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 12:33:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Getting my Moss Supercharger to Run Correctly on My  TR6
References: <[email-masked]>
 <j7TY1o00d0NyJgq017TZi1>

What compression ratio are you running?

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

>From [email-masked]
From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 16:08:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Tr 6 Engine

List,

My newly rebuilt '75 Tr6 engine has been mounted on a stand in my
basement for several years.  I am finally ready to put it in the car but was
wondering about the cam and its state of lubrication after all this time.  Is
there an easy way to relube it without much disassembly?  Is relubing
necessary?  Anything else I should check/do before reinstallation?

Thanks,
Jamie Maddox

>From [email-masked]
From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 17:45:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Reverse Lights

Randall,

I was amazed to learn that the reverse lights can be engaged via a connection
on the transmission. My TR4 has overdrive, but it was added later by the
previous owner. My reverse lights are engaged manually via a knob on the dash!
Can you give me more info on this? Id love to get mine working properly.

Thanks.

-- Jeff

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 20:28:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Reverse Lights

> I was amazed to learn that the reverse lights can be engaged
> via a connection
> on the transmission. My TR4 has overdrive, but it was added
> later by the
> previous owner. My reverse lights are engaged manually via a
> knob on the dash!
> Can you give me more info on this? Id love to get mine
> working properly.

I believe most of the details on how to add the switch are covered in the
article on the Buckeye Triumphs site:
http://tinyurl.com/ppk635m
Of course, Nelson was talking about the OD switches, but the reverse switch is
very similar.  It's just over the reverse shift fork
instead of the forward gears.  Then of course you'll have to add the wiring,
per the wiring diagram.

I think I had a diagram showing more precise switch location, but I can't find
it at the moment.  Maybe someone else has a copy
handy.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2014 15:00:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr 6 Engine
References: <[email-masked]>

Can you pull the spark plugs and run it on the starter motor?  Shoot oil
into the cylinders first.  Hook up an oil-pressure gauge and crank the
engine until you see oil pressure.

There is also some trick you can do first with the distributor-drive, I
think, but I have never tried that and I can ot advise you on it.

On Mon, Aug 25, 2014 at 3:08 PM, <jhmdds at aol.com> wrote:

> List,
>
>
> My newly rebuilt '75 Tr6 engine has been mounted on a stand in my
> basement for several years.  I am finally ready to put it in the car but
> was
> wondering about the cam and its state of lubrication after all this time.
> Is
> there an easy way to relube it without much disassembly?  Is relubing
> necessary?  Anything else I should check/do before reinstallation?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Jamie Maddox
>

-- 
pethier at comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2014 13:33:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr 6 Engine
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

You can also remove the valve cover and dump a quart of oil over the valve
train and let is run down to the cam.  Of course you may need to drain some
oil if this additional quart over-fills the sump.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 14:36:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3

tr3, not tr3a b what are the threads of the screws that hold the door
latches on the b pillar?

my body shop guy just called and he wants them; I do not have the car in front
of me.

>From [email-masked]
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 12:50:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr 6 engine

Hi Jamie,

I suggest you circulate oil through the engine without turning it, since 
the bearings are dry from sitting for many years.

I have a custom-made tool that allows turning the oil pump with an 
electric drill.  The procedure is to remove the distributor and drive 
gear, then replace
the drive gear "shaft" with the special tool.  It takes some practice to 
get the distributor drive gear back in place, but it can be done with 
patience (hint: mark the orientation of the drive gear when the  motor 
is at TDC before disassembly).

I have heard that others use a pressurized oil canister
(such as 
http://www.amazon.com/SURE-SHOT-Sprayer-Interior-Exterior/dp/B005POGY74)
and inject oil by temporarily removing one of the galley plugs.

Good luck!
Cregg

>From [email-masked]
From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 14:00:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] Follow up: Lights-on ignition-off alarm

Thanks to all that responded to my question. Resolved the issue by
purchasing a buzzer from Radio Shack and installed it between the re/green
parking light line and the green windshield wiper switch supply line.

Thanks again
Lee Janssen
Denver CO

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 20:02:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] tr3

---- dave n <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> tr3, not tr3a b what are the threads of the screws that hold the door
> latches on the b pillar?

I vaguely recall that they are 2 BA.  Slightly smaller and slightly different
pitch than 10-32, they sometimes get replaced with 10-32.  But I'm not certain
offhand, and Revington's on-line catalog claims they are 10-32.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 18:10:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3
References: <[email-masked]>
 <20140827200237.8QH6X.59528.root@cdptpa-web24>
 <001a01cfc239$37ea4c60$a7bee520$@net>

thank you all for the replies!

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 19:21:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] You know you are REALLY done with your restoration when...
References: <[email-masked]>
 <20140827200237.8QH6X.59528.root@cdptpa-web24>
 <001a01cfc239$37ea4c60$a7bee520$@net>
 <[email-masked]>

...you realize you have stopped looking at the Roadster Factory specials 
each week, swear I bought darn near a whole car just picking up a few items 
each week when they went on special, got the email about the mid-week 
special today, and realized I haven't even opened one for a while.  Always 
still things to do, wish lists etc, but the heavy lifting must finally be 
done (for now at least).

Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 19:31:35 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] You know you are REALLY done with your restoration when...

 I am at the point myself that I have a hard time spending the $100 credit for having the TRF membership.

While my wife was happy,at Christmas we wished we had more shipping boxes.

My joke is that I had my mid-life crisis and bought the TR because my wife said I could not have a mistress. 10 years later, she wishes I had the mistress because it would have been cheaper and I would not be bugging her about sex all the time. Always gets people to laugh.

Craig
72 TR6

On 08/27/14, Greg Lemon<glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
 
...you realize you have stopped looking at the Roadster Factory specials 
each week, swear I bought darn near a whole car just picking up a few items 
each week when they went on special, got the email about the mid-week 
special today, and realized I haven't even opened one for a while. Always 
still things to do, wish lists etc, but the heavy lifting must finally be 
done (for now at least).

Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 19:37:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] You know you are REALLY done with your restoration when...
References: <[email-masked]>
 <20140827200237.8QH6X.59528.root@cdptpa-web24>
 <001a01cfc239$37ea4c60$a7bee520$@net>
 <[email-masked]>
 <6255D97E5F6941AF88F395F6B79D5204@livingroompc>

Almost the case here,  everything I can buy is here and sitting on the shelves
waiting for the body to come from the paint shop.  Interior, gauges, dash,
capping, exterior, wheels & tires. Silly me, I thought a year would be plenty
of time.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 27, 2014, at 7:21 PM, "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

...you realize you have stopped looking at the Roadster Factory specials each
week, swear I bought darn near a whole car just picking up a few items each
week when they went on special, got the email about the mid-week special
today, and realized I haven't even opened one for a while.  Always still
things to do, wish lists etc, but the heavy lifting must finally be done (for
now at least).

Greg Lemon

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 11:06:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again

Awhile back I think I had posted that I ended up having to remove the cylinder
head of my TR4A to have the bronze valve guides replaced as they were not
reamed enough to allow adequate clearance for the valves. The engine ran fine
all day as long as I didn't go over about 2,500 RPM for more than 2 minutes or
so. If I did, the engine would develope a misfire and there was a clicking
sound comming from the engine. If I pushed in the clutch and let the engine
idle it would run fine again.. As if that wasn't bad enough, the new camshaft
and lifters were ruined in the process of hitting the tight valves.
So, I had new cast iron valve guides installed by a different machine shop and
bought a new camshaft and new lifters from BPNW.
I carefully degreed the new camshaft which was a PIA to do with the engine
still in the car by the way. I put the rest of the engine together and it not
only won't start, but won't even "pop".
Here is what I have done so far;
1. I reviewed again the camshaft timing instructions (BP270 camshaft from
BPNW)
    a. Find TDC for cylinder 1 and index the degree wheel to "0 degrees"
    b. Turn the cranshaft to indicate 112 degrees ATDC.
    c. Install dial indicator on #1 intake valve and turn camshaft till lobe
is at max. lift
    d. Install timing chain.
    e. Rotate crankshaft through the 4 cycles and verify crankshaft and intake
lobe match up to specs. ( I did this a couple of times)
3. Adjusted the valves one more time and didn't find any that were too tight
or loose.
4. The slot on the distributor drive is pointing to the first pushrod tube at
TDC on # 1 compression stroke.
5. I used a timing light to make sure the No. 1 plug was firing just after
TDC.
6. Made sure plug wires are connected correctly (Firing Order 1,3,4, 2)
7. New spark plug wires
8. New plugs
9. There is fuel to the carbs.

About the only other thing I can think of is that somehow the intake manifold
is not tight up against the head and I will check that today. There is no gas
smell like the engine is flooded which I am suspicious of as I cranked if
trying to start it and I would have expected to smell gas.

Anybody have an other ideas??

Thanks,
Dave Connitt

>From [email-masked]
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 10:12:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again
References: <27BD267D64F041649A9D66CAD88AF743@DaveLaptop>

Be sure that you used the 2nd lifter from the front to check the 
intake lift (not the front lifter).  "A Friend" once made that mistake...  :)

Tony Drews

At 10:06 AM 8/28/2014, Dave Connitt wrote:
>Awhile back I think I had posted that I ended up having to remove the cylinder
>head of my TR4A to have the bronze valve guides replaced as they were not
>reamed enough to allow adequate clearance for the valves. The engine ran fine
>all day as long as I didn't go over about 2,500 RPM for more than 2 minutes or
>so. If I did, the engine would develope a misfire and there was a clicking
>sound comming from the engine. If I pushed in the clutch and let the engine
>idle it would run fine again.. As if that wasn't bad enough, the new camshaft
>and lifters were ruined in the process of hitting the tight valves.
>So, I had new cast iron valve guides installed by a different machine shop and
>bought a new camshaft and new lifters from BPNW.
>I carefully degreed the new camshaft which was a PIA to do with the engine
>still in the car by the way. I put the rest of the engine together and it not
>only won't start, but won't even "pop".
>Here is what I have done so far;
>1. I reviewed again the camshaft timing instructions (BP270 camshaft from
>BPNW)
>     a. Find TDC for cylinder 1 and index the degree wheel to "0 degrees"
>     b. Turn the cranshaft to indicate 112 degrees ATDC.
>     c. Install dial indicator on #1 intake valve and turn camshaft till lobe
>is at max. lift
>     d. Install timing chain.
>     e. Rotate crankshaft through the 4 cycles and verify crankshaft 
> and intake
>lobe match up to specs. ( I did this a couple of times)
>3. Adjusted the valves one more time and didn't find any that were too tight
>or loose.
>4. The slot on the distributor drive is pointing to the first pushrod tube at
>TDC on # 1 compression stroke.
>5. I used a timing light to make sure the No. 1 plug was firing just after
>TDC.
>6. Made sure plug wires are connected correctly (Firing Order 1,3,4, 2)
>7. New spark plug wires
>8. New plugs
>9. There is fuel to the carbs.
>
>
>About the only other thing I can think of is that somehow the intake manifold
>is not tight up against the head and I will check that today. There is no gas
>smell like the engine is flooded which I am suspicious of as I cranked if
>trying to start it and I would have expected to smell gas.
>
>Anybody have an other ideas??
>
>Thanks,
>Dave Connitt
>

>From [email-masked]
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:20:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again
References: <27BD267D64F041649A9D66CAD88AF743@DaveLaptop>

On 8/28/14, 8:06 AM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> I carefully degreed the new camshaft which was a PIA to do with the engine
> still in the car by the way. I put the rest of the engine together and it not
> only won't start, but won't even "pop".
> Here is what I have done so far;
> 1. I reviewed again the camshaft timing instructions (BP270 camshaft from
> BPNW)
>      a. Find TDC for cylinder 1 and index the degree wheel to "0 degrees"
>      
Was it top dead centre on the compression stroke or top dead centre on 
the exhaust stroke and are you sure?

After all that work with the degree wheel did you double check it buy 
visually following the method for installing a camshaft described in the 
workshop manual?

When you installed the distributor was the rotor pointed in the right 
direction?

You mentioned verifying fuel but didn't mention spark.  Have you 
verified that you have a strong spark at the plugs?

TeriAnn

>From [email-masked]
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:30:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again
References: <27BD267D64F041649A9D66CAD88AF743@DaveLaptop>
 <kFLz1o00P0NyJgq01FM2Mc>

Assuming you have spark.  Have you checked your static timing to insure that
the distributor timing is correct?

Make sure your intake manifold is seated properly on the head. 

It is very easy to have a gap at the bottom on the 4 cyl tr's , a big gap.
It's so easy to do that I've done it 3x now and it's something I know to
look for (for the last two times anyway).

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 11:41:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again
References: <27BD267D64F041649A9D66CAD88AF743@DaveLaptop>
 <[email-masked]>

TeriAnn,
As I understand it, TDC is just TDC untill I attach the camshaft right?

The rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire (about 11 o'clock

I verified the spark by holding a spark plug to the block and having someone 
turn over the engine and there is a very healthy spark there.

Thanks,
Dave

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 17:24:15 +0000
Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again

---- Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote: 
> TeriAnn,
> As I understand it, TDC is just TDC untill I attach the camshaft right?

That's right (tho I'm not TeriAnn).

My money is on the intake manifold not being seated or no fuel in the carbs; but a double-check of cam & ignition timing wouldn't hurt.  Remove the #1 plug, rocker cover and the distributor cap, then slowly turn the engine forward until the distributor tries to fire #1 (points start to open with rotor pointing at where #1 terminal should be.

Now look down the #1 plug hole to see the top of the piston.  It should be close enough to see, but if you can't tell for sure, stick a soda straw or similar down the hole.  You should be able to feel the top of the piston very close to the hole.  Then look at the valves.  Both valves for #1 should be loose and have the recommended lash.  Both valves for #4 should be open, by roughly the same amount.

If those conditions are met, then the cam and ignition timing are close enough for it to at least try to run.  A common mistake is to reassemble the front pulley wrong, which puts the TDC mark in the wrong place.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 10:34:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again
References: <27BD267D64F041649A9D66CAD88AF743@DaveLaptop>

On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 8:06 AM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:

> 4. The slot on the distributor drive is pointing to the first pushrod tube
> at
> TDC on # 1 compression stroke...

As I recall... that slot ((or notch) must point *away* from #1 -- it is the
rotor itself that points *to* #1.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 14:07:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again-- Update!

I just got it running!
It was the intake manifold not being up against the gasket.
As I was removing the last nuts holding the intake manifold, it started
rocking strangely and after looking at the two holes that the pins on the head
plug into, I could tell they had witness marks on them that meant the manifold
was not seated correctly.
So, after going through that whole assembly process again, it started almost
immediately.
I ran it for 25 minutes or so at 2,000 RPM and when I let it go back down to
idle, it sat there running smoother than it ever did at about 750 RPM which is
about 150-200 RPM slower than it ever did before. I think those bronze valve
guides were my nemisis all along..
Thanks to all for your help!
A special thanks to Jerry Van Vlack for his patience with my phone calls LOL
Dave Connitt

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 16:06:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 distributor / vacuum unit`

I have several usable distributors for the cars I am restoring, but all the
vacuum units are shot.  I see Moss lists various vacuum units depending on
the type of distributor:  is this a question of fit of is it more
complicated than that - a match to the weights or something more intrinsic.

So my question is - how important is it to match a vacuum unit to a
particular distributor?

Andrew Uprichard

>From [email-masked]
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 13:28:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 distributor / vacuum unit`
References: <kL7N1o0130NyJgq01L7Pz2>

As ever - it depends. 

I'd just send it off to Advance Distributors and let them have their way
with it.

They've done 4 for me know and they come back working great and looking
better than new.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

>From [email-masked]
From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 16:34:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] question about hub stud installation
References: <030D75D065DE4A21B818E48F1BAC85BB@DaveLaptop>

I had to replace two rear hub studs on my '56 TR3.  It looked like they were 
pressed in but I found that they are screwed in then peened over on the back 
of the hub.  I don't think I will be able to peen the new studs with simple 
shop tools.  Any suggestions or alternative methods?  I was thinking about 
high strength locktite??
TIA
Pete 

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 13:41:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 distributor / vacuum unit`
References: <[email-masked]>

Andrew -

I expect the difference is the vacuum advance specs as expressed by three
numbers: 4-11-7 in the case of the 40480A and 40698 units.

Those numbers are typically stamped on the vacuum unit.

The first number is the vacuum where advance begins (in inches of mercury),
the second number is the vacuum where advance maxes out and the third
number is the maximum advance in crank degrees.

You're probably familiar with this page, but in case you're not - here is a
pretty comprehensive list of Lucas distributors with applications and
vacuum advance numbers:  http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/lucas.pdf

Geo

On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 1:06 PM, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
wrote:

> I have several usable distributors for the cars I am restoring, but all the
> vacuum units are shot.  I see Moss lists various vacuum units depending on
> the type of distributor:  is this a question of fit of is it more
> complicated than that - a match to the weights or something more intrinsic.
>
>
>
> So my question is - how important is it to match a vacuum unit to a
> particular distributor?
>
> Andrew Uprichard

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 22:01:35 +0000
Subject: [TR] question about hub stud installation

---- Pete Ryner <pryner at verizon.net> wrote: 
> I had to replace two rear hub studs on my '56 TR3.  It looked like they were 
> pressed in but I found that they are screwed in then peened over on the back 
> of the hub.  I don't think I will be able to peen the new studs with simple 
> shop tools.  Any suggestions or alternative methods?  I was thinking about 
> high strength locktite??

Loctite certainly won't hurt.  But you should also be able to peen them over with a punch and BFH.  I forget the term for the type of punch, but the angle at the tip is less sharp than a center punch.  Make a circle of dimples around the outside edge of the stud, just inside the threads.

You used to be able to buy fully threaded studs that would screw in from the back; but I couldn't find them last time I looked.  Moroso doesn't make the old part number any more.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 08:38:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Craig's Mid Life crisis

Hey Craig, no "other woman" involved here, just a TR6.  We got married in '73 after dating for three years.  There used to be a Triumph dealership not for from our cruising rout and we'd drive by and lust.  Even tried out a brand new TR6 and of course we were both deeply moved by the experience.  The car cost, if memory serves me (which it has been failing at doing lately) the price was between 3 and $4,000.  This was he 70s and we were just getting started monewise and that seemed like a lot of money to us.  We ended up buying a SuperBeetle.  Anyway, life goes on with two sons, many jobs, my wife moving up to a six figure income while I became a house husband.   There was still an itching for a "sports car" and I still couldn't afford anything with vroooom!!  But I could pay $2,800 cash for a beautiful yellow '78 Spitfire. ( if you are on Facebook you can look through my picture albums to see what having my 16 year old son lose control of it one night. 
 Soooo insurance $ + some extra gets me in a nice Frenchblue 74 TR6.  I live in Jacksonville Fl.; the car was in Charleston Wva. I'm familiar with that area because we used to live not far from there.  The price had been agreed upon using e-mail and a phone call.  So, suddenly I can't remember HOW I got there, maybe a rental.  Car seemed to work fine to I bought it.  My aunt lives 75 miles away in S.E. Ohio so I'll drive over to see her. Funny thing, I asked the seller that if it were him would he be comfortable driving the Triumph from Wva to Florida and I thought his answer peculiar; it was "I wouldn't care to".  I tried to pry from him if he meant that negatively of positively.  I soon found out.  Arriving a my aunts I had too make a left turn into her driveway and boom!!! the car wouldn't go into gear.  I finally jammed it into 2nd gear and got it behind her house.  I was totally inexperienced in the quirks of TR6s and had to wait two weeks for the
 only mechanic within 75 miles who could work on it.  He did and the car ran fine.  So the next day I merrily head back to Florida.  Every thing went fire until the first gas stop where the car wouldn't restart.  Finally it did (vapor lock??)  Second stop Bluefield Wva,,,no start, no shifting.  Some good old boy mechanics put their heads together and got my back on the road----all the way to south of Charlotte NC where the same thing happened. Called my wife and her exact words were, "get a trailer and van and haul the damned thing home, which I did.
One thing I have discovered since 1998 is our LBC's have a way to live in the shop more than at home. Over the last year mine has spent more time in the shop than at home. It has been up on concrete blocks for peobably 5 months waiting for me to man up, crawl under it, replace the clutch slave cylinder and then the clutch master cylinder.  The fluid in the resivoirs was black and I read that means the fluid caused the rubber parts to melt.  I'm 65 years of age now and I can attest to the fact that -at least my car- have evolved into a LATE LIFE CRISIS car:))  Thinking about selling it because I can no longer afford to make it the car of my dreams.  We always had dreams of driving it on the two lane backroads in late summer, hair blowing in the wind but, my wife became injured and totally disabled in 2000 and in her condition she can't climb in or out of it.  So what good is your dream car with no one to share it with.  And when I say dream car; MANY,
 MANY nights I would fall asleep daydreaming about the TR6.  I think I'll go crawl under it in my hot/stifiling garage and see if there are any snakes in residence.  Cheers & Tally-Ho!!

>From [email-masked]
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 16:09:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] fuel line "olive"

List,
B 
Has anyone found a source for the proper compression fitting for the fuel
lines that connect to the fuel pump on a TR3? Modern fittings, of course, are
a bit too short and permit fuel seepage.
B 
TIA,
B 
Ed Woods

>From [email-masked]
From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 15:58:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] question about hub stud installation
References: <20140828220135.APNXU.84698.root@cdptpa-web24>

Thanks Randall,
Your comment reminded me that I had an air chisel with a punch type tool. 
Worked great although not as neat as the originals.  I also used some strong 
threadlocking that will have to be heated if I ever want to remove the stud 
again.
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2014 6:01 PM
To: Pete Ryner ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] question about hub stud installation

---- Pete Ryner <pryner at verizon.net> wrote:
> I had to replace two rear hub studs on my '56 TR3.  It looked like they 
> were
> pressed in but I found that they are screwed in then peened over on the 
> back
> of the hub.  I don't think I will be able to peen the new studs with 
> simple
> shop tools.  Any suggestions or alternative methods?  I was thinking about
> high strength locktite??

Loctite certainly won't hurt.  But you should also be able to peen them over 
with a punch and BFH.  I forget the term for the type of punch, but the 
angle at the tip is less sharp than a center punch.  Make a circle of 
dimples around the outside edge of the stud, just inside the threads.

You used to be able to buy fully threaded studs that would screw in from the 
back; but I couldn't find them last time I looked.  Moroso doesn't make the 
old part number any more.

Randall 

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 21:28:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] stage ad

My direct reply got bounced, so here it is through the list:

Can't send attachments through the Team.Net lists.  Best you can do is post the 
photo on a web site or forum someplace, then post a link to that on the list. 
 
I'm always interested in old ads, though; so if you want, you can send it to me 
directly and I'll do the rest. 
 
Randall 

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 10:04:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stag parts needed

I am sure this is a strange request for STAG parts. I need a
block with main caps and crankshaft. Nothing else, no rods/pistons,
heads, etc. They also don't need to be useable parts. Can have bad
bores, crank journals, broken. Also need flywheel or flex plate. Adapter
plates to transmission manual and automatic.

I am working on a plan to install a 5 speed gearbox in a Stag and need
these parts for measuring and to mock up the fitting. Would like to do
a 4 speed conversion first and then tackle a conversion of an automatic.

If you have anything connect me direct and we will work out something.

Would also like to know if there are any Stag owners that would be
interested in such a package if I can keep the cost reasonable.

Dean T.

>From [email-masked]
From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 14:06:16 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A Air Duct Mounting

I'm currently in the process of installing the GoodParts stainless steel
radiator air duct in my TR4A and have a small problem.

My 1967 TR4A is a very late one - CTC78390L - and the upper valance panel to
which the top piece of air duct mounts is V shaped putting the middle mounting
point 1/2 inch or so in front of the two others.  I wonder if TRIUMPH maybe
switched to a TR250 style late in the run?

I had encountered this problem with the two previous "cardboard" ducts but had
simply ignored the mid-point mount.

Anyone else been there - done this?

I've asked Richard Good for comments.

... and thanks to John Donnelly and Dave Connitt for recommending GoodParts -
I'm very impressed with the overall quality of the product!

Cheers,

Brian
_______________________________________________________________________
   Brian Thomas                    E-mail:  ThomasB at QueensU.Ca
   92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
   Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01 XKR, 
75 John Deere 920
   CANADA   K0H 2Y0                       

>From [email-masked]
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 08:35:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch
References: <[email-masked]>

Listers,
  My recently acquired GT6+ is equipped with an O/D (yea!) but the 
safety switch mounted at the distal end of the gearbox extension only 
allows for 4th gear operation. I saw a picture of a safety switch 
mounted more or less over the forks.. question is/are is this a MK3 
improvement or is it a extension assembly from a TR other car that just 
happens to interchange?
Dave in Abq.

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

>From [email-masked]
From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:04:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A Air Duct Mounting
References: <[email-masked]>
 <560C245B97F04D72B540247BE237CE30@VlackTK121647>

Thanks Jerry for the comment.

The V shape certainly appears to be factory.  I've only had the car for 25
years and can't comment on any accidents before my time.

I did hit a deer about 4 years ago and while the hood was displaced rearwards,
the grill and bumper escaped any damage.  Besides, I had installed a cardboard
duct before then and had the same problem.

I find it interesting that Richard offers a different product for the TR250.
>From the pictures it appears the 250 doesn't have the overflow bottle cut-out
- maybe the top piece is also different?

... and no, I haven't looked at a TR250 yet - perhaps a 250 list member can
comment?

Brian

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 08:46:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Air Duct Mounting
References: <[email-masked]>

Just to research w/o leaving my chair... I Googled images for the TR4
engine and the TR250 engine to compare:

TR4 <http://zschech.net/tr4/engine.jpg>

TR250
<http://www.classicargarage.com/common/pictures/mozes/2011/0211/supersize/triumph_tr250_engine.JPG>

I'm not seeing anything I would call a V - or any other differences in that
area.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 11:50:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Air Duct Mounting
References: <[email-masked]>
 <560C245B97F04D72B540247BE237CE30@VlackTK121647>
 <[email-masked]>

In addition to the overflow bottle difference there may be a difference in 
either the width or the placement of the 250 radiator requiring in different 
side panel length and angle.With the 6 cyl engine my guess is that the 
radiator is placed in a different location. Come to think of it that would 
also negate the use of the top panel as it's length and width would be 
different too.
JVV

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 14:47:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] fuel line "olive"
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

I recall someone posted a picture of how they took two modern olives,
cut the taper of of one end of each, and then installed them butted
together.  But I can't recall where I saw it...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 12:09 PM,  <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:
> List,
> B
> Has anyone found a source for the proper compression fitting for the fuel
> lines that connect to the fuel pump on a TR3? Modern fittings, of course, are
> a bit too short and permit fuel seepage.
> B
> TIA,
> B
> Ed Woods

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 11:53:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] fuel line "olive"

> I recall someone posted a picture of how they took two modern olives,
> cut the taper of of one end of each, and then installed them butted
> together.  But I can't recall where I saw it...

http://tinyurl.com/nptltzp

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:01:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Not being intimate with the GT6 transmission, but assuming that it
works the same as the Spitfire and TR6 gearboxes, the switch should
operate via a notch in the shaft, or a notch in the fork.  As I
understand it, the switch dropping into the notch locks out the signal
to the solenoid.  The OD switch on the column/shift knob remains
engaged, and so shifting between gears keeps the OD working  except
for the brief period when the lever passes through neutral where the
switch plunger drops into the notch..

So, the position of the switch mounting shouldn't affect whether or
not it works in 3rd gear.  I'm guessing you have some other problem,
but what it is is still a mystery.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 10:35 AM, David Porter
<frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
> Listers,
>  My recently acquired GT6+ is equipped with an O/D (yea!) but the safety
> switch mounted at the distal end of the gearbox extension only allows for
> 4th gear operation. I saw a picture of a safety switch mounted more or less
> over the forks.. question is/are is this a MK3 improvement or is it a
> extension assembly from a TR other car that just happens to interchange?
> Dave in Abq.
>
> --
> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107
> 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
>

>From [email-masked]
From: will.daehler at gmail.com (Will Daehler)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:24:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine won't restart when hot

I'm at wits end, this problem happened at first after a short 10 minute
jaunt to the grocery store. After letting the car sit for an hour, the
engine restarted fine. But I had been served the warning, and thought it
was time to do the standard maintenance tune up operations. I replaced the
coil, the condenser, the points, adjusted the valve lash. Installed new
distributor cap, and all new wires, new spark plugs, and my new rotor is
the red type . My carburetors are rebuilt and freshly cleaned. I'm using SU
dash pot oil, and I'm following the wisdom of the list and the manuals
everywhere I can.
My very last no-start event, I pulled that caps off the float bowls, and
confirmed that I had gas in both, and that the floats were floating.

So when the engine is running, it runs well and the car goes likes stink. I
was up to 88 miles per hour last month. But stop the car for a minute, and
it's nearly impossible to restart unless I wait an hour and a half. Its
like my gasoline is made from water, and won't ignite. I have the Ted
Schumacher gear reduction starter motor and a strong battery, I'm not
limited by the number of cranks. It just won't fire!!!!

What can I check? What can I do? Looking for suggestions.

National VTR is two weeks, and it's going to be embarrassing.
My gut feel is that my carbs are set way too rich.

Will Daehler
63 TR4 Powder Blue

>From [email-masked]
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 13:24:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <CAO8Q7CPmQQmCYxJfzb0b_-50AG_A=[email-masked]>

No,
  this particular installation relies on an external contact by the gear 
shift lever itself. Not an internal position of the 3rd/4th shift rod. 
The usual Lucas pressure switch is mounted on the side at the very 
rearmost part of the extension assembly, not on the top in the more or 
less center section... this allows only using O/D in 4th gear.. better 
than nothing I guess..
Dave
On 8/31/2014 1:01 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> Not being intimate with the GT6 transmission, but assuming that it
> works the same as the Spitfire and TR6 gearboxes, the switch should
> operate via a notch in the shaft, or a notch in the fork.  As I
> understand it, the switch dropping into the notch locks out the signal
> to the solenoid.  The OD switch on the column/shift knob remains
> engaged, and so shifting between gears keeps the OD working  except
> for the brief period when the lever passes through neutral where the
> switch plunger drops into the notch..
>
> So, the position of the switch mounting shouldn't affect whether or
> not it works in 3rd gear.  I'm guessing you have some other problem,
> but what it is is still a mystery.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>
> On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 10:35 AM, David Porter
> <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
>> Listers,
>>   My recently acquired GT6+ is equipped with an O/D (yea!) but the safety
>> switch mounted at the distal end of the gearbox extension only allows for
>> 4th gear operation. I saw a picture of a safety switch mounted more or less
>> over the forks.. question is/are is this a MK3 improvement or is it a
>> extension assembly from a TR other car that just happens to interchange?
>> Dave in Abq.
>>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

>From [email-masked]
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 13:42:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine won't restart when hot
References: <CA+bCZ+QmsZE0hpdWwAy=[email-masked]>

Will,
  The basics are where to start. Pull the spark plugs and visually 
examine for excessive wetness. While they are out check the compression, 
is it within normal limits. Also check that the points are actually 
opening. Roll the car in 4th gear and watch the opening as the cam 
rotates. When they are closed, key on, open them manually and watch for 
a small spark, does it spark each time? The 4's run the fuel line very 
close to the thermostat housing. Is it so close as to exacerbate a 
"vapor lock" condition. Remove a carb piston and see if fuel is bubbling 
up through the jet head when hot. Depending on the chokes installed, if 
manual Strombergs, the tiny rubber O-rings fail and will flood the 
engine quickly when hot.
Note: when a flooded condition occurs hold the throttle in a wide open 
position to clear the flooding.
Dave
follow up if you are able..
On 8/31/2014 1:24 PM, Will Daehler wrote:
> I'm at wits end, this problem happened at first after a short 10 minute
> jaunt to the grocery store. After letting the car sit for an hour, the
> engine restarted fine. But I had been served the warning, and thought it
> was time to do the standard maintenance tune up operations. I replaced the
> coil, the condenser, the points, adjusted the valve lash. Installed new
> distributor cap, and all new wires, new spark plugs, and my new rotor is
> the red type . My carburetors are rebuilt and freshly cleaned. I'm using SU
> dash pot oil, and I'm following the wisdom of the list and the manuals
> everywhere I can.
> My very last no-start event, I pulled that caps off the float bowls, and
> confirmed that I had gas in both, and that the floats were floating.
>
> So when the engine is running, it runs well and the car goes likes stink. I
> was up to 88 miles per hour last month. But stop the car for a minute, and
> it's nearly impossible to restart unless I wait an hour and a half. Its
> like my gasoline is made from water, and won't ignite. I have the Ted
> Schumacher gear reduction starter motor and a strong battery, I'm not
> limited by the number of cranks. It just won't fire!!!!
>
> What can I check? What can I do? Looking for suggestions.
>
> National VTR is two weeks, and it's going to be embarrassing.
> My gut feel is that my carbs are set way too rich.
>
> Will Daehler
> 63 TR4 Powder Blue

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

>From [email-masked]
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:51:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine won't restart when hot

But, Will, did you check for spark (at the plugs) at the same moment that  
you were in a no-start situation?
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs,  Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4 CT2052L
 
>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 14:54:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine won't restart when hot
References: <CA+bCZ+QmsZE0hpdWwAy=[email-masked]>

By your comment about the gas I presume you are seeing wet plugs after a short
session of no-start cranking.   Have you leaned out the carbs a couple of
flats as a time and rechecked your plug color?

If you are satisfied with the fuel side, try replacing the ignition parts from
the tune up with the old ones you know to be good.  I would start with the
condenser.  You don't mention the coil, the heat problem could be there. You
could relocate it, insulate it , or replace it to see if it resolves you
issue.

Sent from mobile Bill

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:42:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch

> this allows only using O/D in 4th 
> gear.. better than nothing I guess..

Just a SWAG, but the GT6 used the D-type OD which was marginal even behind the much smaller Spitfire motor.  My _guess_ is that they
limited it to 4th gear because the OD could not handle the engine torque multiplied by the 3rd gear ratio.

I don't know how the ratios work out on the GT6, but on the TR2-6, 3rd OD is so close to 4th direct that it's almost not a separate
gear.  That's not to say 3rd OD is totally useless, but it's also not a big loss, IMO.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 16:52:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <CAO8Q7CPmQQmCYxJfzb0b_-50AG_A=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

On 8/31/2014 1:24 PM, David Porter wrote:
> No,
>  this particular installation relies on an external contact by the 
> gear shift lever itself. Not an internal position of the 3rd/4th shift 
> rod. The usual Lucas pressure switch is mounted on the side at the 
> very rearmost part of the extension assembly, not on the top in the 
> more or less center section... this allows only using O/D in 4th 
> gear.. better than nothing I guess..
> Dave
> On 8/31/2014 1:01 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>> Not being intimate with the GT6 transmission, but assuming that it
>> works the same as the Spitfire and TR6 gearboxes, the switch should
>> operate via a notch in the shaft, or a notch in the fork.  As I
>> understand it, the switch dropping into the notch locks out the signal
>> to the solenoid.  The OD switch on the column/shift knob remains
>> engaged, and so shifting between gears keeps the OD working except
>> for the brief period when the lever passes through neutral where the
>> switch plunger drops into the notch..
>>
>> So, the position of the switch mounting shouldn't affect whether or
>> not it works in 3rd gear.  I'm guessing you have some other problem,
>> but what it is is still a mystery.
>>
>> Jeff Scarbrough
>> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>>
>> On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 10:35 AM, David Porter
>> <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
>>> Listers,
>>>   My recently acquired GT6+ is equipped with an O/D (yea!) but the 
>>> safety
>>> switch mounted at the distal end of the gearbox extension only 
>>> allows for
>>> 4th gear operation. I saw a picture of a safety switch mounted more 
>>> or less
>>> over the forks.. question is/are is this a MK3 improvement or is it a
>>> extension assembly from a TR other car that just happens to 
>>> interchange?
>>> Dave in Abq.

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

>From [email-masked]
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 17:04:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <CAO8Q7CPmQQmCYxJfzb0b_-50AG_A=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

All,
  I have resolved the switch issue. A generous lister has the correct 
factory adapter that allows 3rd and 4th gear O/D operation. Happily I 
don't have to settle for only one additional gear... yea!
thanks to all who offered their thoughts!
Dave

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 19:17:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch
References: <[email-masked]>
 <3C.48.31046.9E4A3045@cdptpa-oedge03>

Yes, but if you are on a tight winding road, it's fun just to kick the car
in and out of overdrive in third rather than shift up and down.

Andrew Uprichard

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 16:32:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch
References: <[email-masked]>
 <3C.48.31046.9E4A3045@cdptpa-oedge03>
 <[email-masked]>

And on a mountain grade of about 6% (and no traffic to slow you down) 3rd
OD is my gear of choice as 4th isn't quite enough and 3rd is definitely too
much.

On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 4:17 PM, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
wrote:

> Yes, but if you are on a tight winding road, it's fun just to kick the car
> in and out of overdrive in third rather than shift up and down.
>

>From [email-masked]
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 16:57:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] E-Type Prices Drop?

     I have moments of weakness and consider purchasing a Jag. It seems to me that some E-type prices have been dropping recently.

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1967-Jaguar-E_Type-1637822.xhtml?conversationId=89883

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-E_Type-1568202.xhtml?conversationId=89883

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-XK_E-1698307.xhtml?conversationId=89883

     Triumph owners understand that there is no such thing as a cheap Jag. If you can't afford a good one you certainly can't afford a bad one...
     These three examples look like pretty good cars at pretty low prices. I mean, they are down to TR6 prices. Am I missing something? Has anyone else been following the E-type prices and come up with the same conclusion?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

>From [email-masked]
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 01:08:11 GMT
Subject: [TR] E-Type Prices Drop?

The tan car looks particularly nice.Those are lower prices than they have been
AGE RES PROPRIAS TUAS MOLON LABE

---------- Original Message ----------
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] E-Type Prices Drop?
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 16:57:15 -0700

     I have moments of weakness and consider purchasing a Jag. It seems to me
that some E-type prices have been dropping recently.

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1967-Jaguar-E_Type-1637822.xhtm
l?conversationId=89883

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-E_Type-1568202.xhtm
l?conversationId=89883

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-XK_E-1698307.xhtml?
conversationId=89883

     Triumph owners understand that there is no such thing as a cheap Jag. If
you can't afford a good one you certainly can't afford a bad one...
     These three examples look like pretty good cars at pretty low prices. I
mean, they are down to TR6 prices. Am I missing something? Has anyone else
been following the E-type prices and come up with the same conclusion?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 18:26:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] E-Type Prices Drop?
References: <[email-masked]>

In my experience there are a fair number of scammers using AutoTrader.

They lift the photos right off of other for sale sites & auctions.

I suspect all three of those are scams.

OTOH, consider this:  http://goo.gl/CsvS7u

But good E-Types can still be had at reasonable prices - I got one about 2
years ago -- but like anything where money is involved, it is tricky.
These cars in particular can be made to look much better than they are with
bondo and paint.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 20:23:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch
References: <[email-masked]>
 <3C.48.31046.9E4A3045@cdptpa-oedge03>
 <[email-masked]>

when we did tail of the dragon, it was all 2nd and 2nd od, back and forth, 
back and forth.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stIUBx5jWY8

>From [email-masked]
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 01:37:27 +0000
Subject: [TR] OT: help from the brilliant

}I have a rental car for the week while on vacation. It seems someone decided
to key scratch the hood while parked at dinner. I wish to not have to declare
this and go through hell with insurance etc.

Any thoughts on how I could tackle this before facing the hell?

Thanks
David

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 22:31:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] OT: help from the brilliant
References: <[email-masked]>

Er.... find a body shop ??

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David
Templeton
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2014 9:37 PM
To: Triumphs at Autox Team. Net
Subject: [TR] OT: help from the brilliant

}I have a rental car for the week while on vacation. It seems someone
decided to key scratch the hood while parked at dinner. I wish to not have
to declare this and go through hell with insurance etc.

Any thoughts on how I could tackle this before facing the hell?

Thanks
David

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 20:36:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] E-Type Prices Drop?
References: <[email-masked]>
 <CANzE1bE2FY5HEO14HcB_PEyx3Ra7wooN3DMw=1e99bLho=[email-masked]>

Here is some detail on those great deals.  The first two are available
(along with some other great deals) from Gateway Motors
<http://www.gateway-motors.com/inventory.php?cId=&sId=24> in Chicago.

The beige one
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1967-Jaguar-E_Type-1637822.xhtml?conversationId=89883
sold
on eBay last month for $71,000 -- eBay listing
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-JAGUAR-XKE-SERIES-1-COVERED-HEADLIGHT-ROASTER-NUMBERS-MATCHING-MUST-SEE-/111406196349?nma=true&si=TucqlCVAoaDYO29%252BDwq1fWrzuGA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557>
-- now Gateway is offering it for $29,000.

The red one
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-E_Type-1568202.xhtml?conversation
<http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-E_Type-1568202.xhtml?conversationId=89883>
sold
on eBay for $50,000 in March -- eBay listing
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Signal-Red-Jaguar-E-Type-XKE-Series-II-Convertible-4-2L-6-Cyl-4-Spd-Manual-/141228993746?nma=true&si=TucqlCVAoaDYO29%252BDwq1fWrzuGA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557>
-- now gateway is selling it for $22,800.

Their 'buy high - sell low' business model is either remarkably generous or
a scam.

The third one
http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-XK_E-1698307.xhtml?conversationId=89883
appears to be a legitimate sale as it is offered by the Beverly Hills Car
Club -- the ad
<http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1969-jaguar-xke-roadster-c-3353.htm> --
and they are a real business.

I don't think AutoTrader itself is a scam -- it appears to lift ads from
sellers sites.  Since Gateway motors lists those first two cars they pick
them up and repeat the ad & price.

If you do become interested in an E-Type this site xkedata.com is a great
resource where detail about many Jaguars can be sourced using the chassis
number.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 20:38:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] OT: help from the brilliant
References: <[email-masked]>

Return it at night... in the rain?

On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 6:37 PM, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
wrote:

> }I have a rental car for the week while on vacation. It seems someone
> decided
> to key scratch the hood while parked at dinner. I wish to not have to
> declare
> this and go through hell with insurance etc.
>
> Any thoughts on how I could tackle this before facing the hell?
>
> Thanks
> David