Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb tuning

From: Mark J Bradakis <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 12:38:07 -0600

James_ wrote:

> The sync tool measures very different between the carbs. High number on the rear and lower on the front.
> That has always been an issue to get a proper reading exact between the two.

It shouldn't be that difficult to sync them. Are you loosening the clamps for both carbs from the center
linkage before trying to balance?

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2014 19:57:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A 400 mile checkup

Today I put the TR4A up on jack stands and changed the oil and filter for it's
400 mile check. I started at the rear and worked my way up to the front
checking for loose fastners or anything needing attention. All I found was;
1. Driver side rear brake needed adjusting.
2. Added a couple of ty-wraps on the speedometer cable.
3. Passenger side front wheel bearing was a tad loose.
4. retorqued the head and adjusted the valves.
5. I checked the spark plugs and the center electrodes are tan and the rest of
the plug was black.
Not bad

I started installing the rear bumper today. I got as far as getting all the
rear fastners and brackets loosely attached. I need to work on the side
attachements and then I can start tightening things up.

Last Friday, I drove it to work (about 45 miles round trip) and another 40 or
so miles yesterday down the Ohio river and back. The reason I am not sure is
that the speedometer needs to be rebuilt. It broke two speedometer cables
until I caught on and disconnected it. The bearing that the main shaft runs it
has stiffened up. I talked to a gauge rebuilder and he said it would take 4
weeks to rebuild

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS

http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

>From [email-masked]
From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2014 14:22:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Bonnet

I have a few problems of late with my '64 Triumph, one being the brake lines.
However, yesterday, when I wanted to check the fluid level, the bonnet appears
stuck and wont open. How can I easily determine whether the cable is broken.
Since the release lever does not open it, is there an alternative to opening
it? How frustrating with nice driving weather, and I can't in the TR4.

>From [email-masked]
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 08:31:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast
References: <9Go41o00b0NyJgq01Go7ap>

Look for heat marks/discoloration on your rotors.  

These "hot spots" are work hardened metal and can cause a pulsation. 

If you have them, they can't be machined out.  They can be caused by using a
pad that is too hard.  

I run the softest pads I can find on all my cars.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

----- 

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 03:20:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast

> Just checked the rotor 
> runout and it's
> way out of spec on the right and OK (.005) on the left.
> 
> Should I turn both rotors?

IMO, replace the right, leave the left alone except for breaking the glaze.  If the right rotor warped that badly, then it's almost
certainly a bad casting and will just warp again.

>  They aren't scored; if I turn 
> them must I put in
> new pads?

Should be OK to reuse the old pads, if they look alright.  But since they normally wear out first, changing them now may mean longer
before you change them again.  Kind of depends on what your time is worth to change them.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2014 16:22:34 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY

Anyone out there purchased and is using these LED instrument lights listed on EBAY?

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/300923024335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Craig
72 Triumph TR6

>From [email-masked]
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2014 02:54:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY
References: <29087932.873617.1401744154230.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

bought a set about a year ago..... nice but more expensive than the sets 
I've since bought from Sencart.com
<http://www.sencart.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&inc_subcat=1&search_in_description=1&categories_id=&keyword=e10>
..not sure what happened to the pics...but one is still there about 
second fro mthe last row second pic from teh left.
I have sets of red, green, blue, and white.
They are all brighter than the ebay units you mention, and half the cost.
nfi...just a satified experimenter,
I used the green in my Triumph as the speedo and tach already had green 
lenses over the bulbs inside. now at least ALL my gauges are green.

ptegler
On 6/2/2014 5:22 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:
> Anyone out there purchased and is using these LED instrument lights listed on EBAY?
>
>
>   http://www.ebay.com/itm/300923024335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
>

>From [email-masked]
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 02:52:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Headrest
References: <[email-masked]>

You have to depress the spring steel tab that protrudes from the support
post which prevents the headrest from just sliding out. The tab is located
on the right side of the headrest shaft. Here is what the little tab looks
like that holds them in. The spring action is very stiff. I haven't
figured out what tool is necessary to release it. I tried steel shim stock
and found the tab would puncture it before pressing in. I have these
pictures because I ended up stripping down a seat for recovering.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN

> Does anybody know how the adjustable headrest on a 1974 TR6 comes  off.
> Got these neat seatbelt guides but I can't figure out if the headrest
> comes
> out or the second option is to cut the guides.  Thanks
> Harry Mague

>From [email-masked]
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (Martin Secrest)
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2014 20:38:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Thanks Jeff; basically everything's already in good shape.

The machine shop confirmed what I thought. On rotor was way out of spec and
has to be replaced. Fortunately they are cheap.

> On Jun 2, 2014, at 1:57 PM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Martin Secrest
> <moira.secrest at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Should I turn both rotors?  They aren't scored; if I turn them must I put
in
>> new pads?
>
> If I recall,t he GT6 rotors are like Spitfire rotors - a solid disk
> without much extra thickness. May not be able to turn the warp out of
> it.
>
> I'd be tempted to replace rotors and pads, and make sure to evaluate
> the cause - is a caliper sticking?  Also a good opportunity to clean
> and grease bearings, replace rubber hoses, etc., if that all hasn't
> already been done recently.
>
> But then, I'm an overkill kind of guy.  If I go ahead and replace
> everything while I'm in there, I don't have to take apart something
> right after I just put it back together.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 13:57:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast
References: <[email-masked]>

On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Martin Secrest
<moira.secrest at verizon.net> wrote:

>
> Should I turn both rotors?  They aren't scored; if I turn them must I put in
> new pads?

If I recall,t he GT6 rotors are like Spitfire rotors - a solid disk
without much extra thickness. May not be able to turn the warp out of
it.

I'd be tempted to replace rotors and pads, and make sure to evaluate
the cause - is a caliper sticking?  Also a good opportunity to clean
and grease bearings, replace rubber hoses, etc., if that all hasn't
already been done recently.

But then, I'm an overkill kind of guy.  If I go ahead and replace
everything while I'm in there, I don't have to take apart something
right after I just put it back together.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 11:52:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY
References: <29087932.873617.1401744154230.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
 <[email-masked]>

I may be the only one, and yes my car is heavily modified for performance, 
but I rather like the ambiance of the dim gages.  yes, they are harder to 
read, and maybe not so showy perfect.  I have another car with new, 
replacement gages, and they are bright.  but there is just something I like 
about the tr6 cockpit, the wood dash,  and those dim gages . . . .

>From [email-masked]
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (Martin Secrest)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2014 11:55:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?

Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6?

What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis?

Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon
footprint.

Martin Secrest

>From [email-masked]
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 19:27:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 and Monza ( the blown gasket saga)

I know this has been talked about many times, but i can't get into the
archives. Would some of you be willing to share  your degree of
satisfaction with the Monza system that everyone sells for the TR4?  I have
to replace the headers that came with the car as they are badly warped and
not enough thickness to the flange to level off. I've long had an unused 4
in 1 header  from Ebay maybe 15 years ago and thought I'd use that with a
new pipe and muffler,

Interesting about the current exhaust is that the pipe is only 1 5/8" ID,
which always looked a bit small, (although the Monza is only 3/8" larger).
My machine shop guy says that when increasing the flow via a larger pipe
one sacrifices torque to gain revs at higher speeds. A smaller pipe
conversely increases torque, which is what the original owner of this car
would have wanted for his auto-crossing back in the 60's and 70's.  Amazing
what i don;t know.

Anyway, would appreciate any comments, and thanks. Incidentally, best EBay
price is $262 from a commercial seller.

John

>From [email-masked]
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 17:25:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor
References: <[email-masked]>
 <4C.90.25046.B02B8835@cdptpa-oedge03>

I googled the bete noire reference and found a nice cake recipe. My wife
loved it.

>From [email-masked]
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2014 10:20:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?
References: <[email-masked]>

Martin,

A converter will have no affect on CO2. It will convert CO to CO2 I 
think. It may alter other gasses such as SO2 or SO3 and some Nitrogen 
compounds. But what goes in the converter comes out, maybe in a 
different form but the same elements. The only way I know of altering 
elements is by fusion and fission.

Also, it will get very hot during operation. It will require a heat 
shield of some sort.

The best bet is to keep your engine in top tune IMO.

Bob

On 06/03/2014 11:55 AM, Martin Secrest wrote:
> Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6?
>
> What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis?
>
> Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon
> footprint.
>
> Martin Secrest

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 07:59:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?

> A converter will have no affect on CO2. It will convert CO to CO2 I 
> think. 

Right.  Also HC to H2O + CO2; and NOx to N2 + O2 (if you have a "3-way" catalyst).

> Also, it will get very hot during operation. It will require a heat 
> shield of some sort.

In order to achieve the reactions, it also needs free oxygen in the input.  That means your engine has to either run leaner than
normal (so not all the oxygen is consumed by combustion), or you need a air injection system to feed O2 to the converter.

My point being that it isn't just a bolt-on device.

> The best bet is to keep your engine in top tune IMO.

Basically anything that reduces fuel consumption will also lower your "carbon footprint".

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: greg.meythaler at intel.com (Meythaler, Greg)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 16:15:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 153
References: <[email-masked]>

They're caused by hot spots, but typically you get hot spots because you are
using to soft a pad that gets over heated or doesn't have the right heat
range.  Here is a great reference on the subject:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brak
e-disc-and-other-myths

-greg

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 08:31:03 -0700
From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr at cox.net>
To: "'Martin Secrest'" <moira.secrest at verizon.net>,
	<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast

Look for heat marks/discoloration on your rotors.

These "hot spots" are work hardened metal and can cause a pulsation.

If you have them, they can't be machined out.  They can be caused by using a
pad that is too hard.

I run the softest pads I can find on all my cars.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

-----

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 18:03:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?
References: <[email-masked]>

others will correct me if I'm wrong - all a cat does I believe is change 
carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide.  I think there are better ways to reduce 
your carbon footprint.

a big one is to drive an old car and save all the energy utilized in the 
construction of a new vehicle!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Martin Secrest
Sent: Tuesday, June 3, 2014 10:55 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?

Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6?

What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis?

Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon
footprint.

Martin Secrest 

>From [email-masked]
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 21:16:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRactor Engine Timing

After rebuilding my TR4A engine I've been playing around with the engine
timing (advance/retard) to dial in the best performance. The engine has the
Moss cam & 87 MM pistons, but everything else is stock. Stock HS6's, stock
distributor with Pertronix, new gears and timing chain. The vacuum advance
is attached.

I never seem to be able to get the full range performance I would expect. I
can get low end to be great but the top end suffers. Redial it and the top
end is great but low end is sluggish.

I dont think the carbs are it, as I've changed to richer needles, made it
richer/leaner, and it didn't help. I did learn that a richer mixture seems
to hide timing differences.

And I got to thinking that the TR4A distributor has an advance limit built
into it and was wondering if going to a more full range dizzy would give me
that full range performance. Shouldn't the dizzy advance and the cam specs
match up? 

Why the limited advance anyway?

BTW, the weather is absolutely bitchin to be driving with top down every day
here in San Diego. I'm loving it.

Johnnie

67 TR4A

>From [email-masked]
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 16:03:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] carpet snap layout

Does anybody have a diagram showing the carpet snap layout for a TR3?

I replaced the floors in mine, and the old ones were too far gone to make
any sense of it.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

----- 

>From [email-masked]
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2014 22:31:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] What fun.

At the moment, there are 36,753 pending emails on Team.Net waiting to be delivered to subscribers.
Most are to Yahoo, AOL, Comcast, Hotmail addresses. You know, small obscure operations. This DMARC
stuff is killing me.

I wonder how many folks, if any, will actually see this message?

mjb.

>From [email-masked]
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2014 00:01:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] What fun.
References: <[email-masked]>

Made it through to me...

Tony Drews

At 11:31 PM 6/5/2014, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>At the moment, there are 36,753 pending emails on Team.Net waiting 
>to be delivered to subscribers.
>Most are to Yahoo, AOL, Comcast, Hotmail addresses. You know, small 
>obscure operations. This DMARC
>stuff is killing me.
>
>I wonder how many folks, if any, will actually see this message?
>
>mjb.
>

>From [email-masked]
From: malcolm at ipatch.ca (Malcolm)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 22:15:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?
References: <[email-masked]>

I'm going to do some armchair engineering here, so please feel free to
research and refute anything I claim.

While you most certainly can retrofit the catalytic converter, it's not the
only requirement by far.  In order for the catalytic convert to do its job,
there needs to be sufficient oxygen in the exhaust to burn up (catalyze...)
the extra hydrocarbons.

The converter should be located close to the engine (so that it heats up)
and as far from the passengers as you can (because it gets hot).

If your mixture is too rich then the catalytic converter will overheat.  I
had an old Ford wagon that had that happen - the converter got bright red.
 Could be a fire hazard!

So, by my speculation, you should have at least an oxygen sensor and some
means of automatically adjusting the mixture to compensate / ensure that
the converter is working.  You may also need an air pump to feed fresh air
into the exhaust to make the converter work.

A fascinating problem, but is it worth the effort?  Also, consider that the
manufacture of your new catalytic converter may have involved the mining
and refinement of some heavy metals.  Will your driving and reduced
hydrocarbon output actually offset that?

Personally, I would get the mixture adjustment components working first -
and test your car after a good tune-up to determine how bad it really is.
 I suspect that you will affect your carbon footprint more with careful
driving and proper maintenance than you would by adding more hardware to
the system.

M

On Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 8:55 AM, Martin Secrest <moira.secrest at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6?
>
> What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis?
>
> Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon
> footprint.
>
> Martin Secrest
>

>From [email-masked]
From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 16:58:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Headrest
References: <[email-masked]>

You can read how to do it here......... 
http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/15-mechanical-repair-maintenance-a-restoration/249244-Headrest-removal#281896

Very difficult with the covers on the seat.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
1975 Mimosa TR6
TBI, 5 Speed, LSD, CVJs

>From [email-masked]
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 07:10:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?
References: <[email-masked]>

The products of hydrocarbon combustion are water and carbon dioxide.
If you want less CO2, as others have said, burn less gasoline.  Drive
less and more economically.   Tune the car well including tire
pressures.

Air pollution is much more than CO2, and when catalysts were developed
it was more about photochemical smog than anything else (CO2 and
global warming was being talked about by a few academics, not the
population at large).  Original two-way catalytic convertors manage
incomplete combustion products (unburned hydrocarbons, HC, and carbon
monoxide, CO).  Modern three-way catalytic convertors in addition
manage oxides of nitrogen (NOX), a component of smog and acid rain
that results from lean mixtures and hot combustion.  Catalytic
convertors don't change the fundamental equation that CO2 comes from
burning fuel.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

On 6/3/14, Martin Secrest <moira.secrest at verizon.net> wrote:
> Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6?
>
> What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis?
>
> Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon
> footprint.
>
> Martin Secrest
>

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 14:22:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] goodparts roller bearing clutch mechanism

anyone using this?  Ibm thinking of getting it.

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 17:19:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRactor Engine Timing
References: <[email-masked]>

Hi John,
Funny you should post this as I have just about finished by TR4A here in 
Cincinnati and did a bit of struggling with the tuning also.
I have the BPNW 270 degree cam and 87mm pistons but I also have a 
RevingtonTR 4into1header and mating exhaust and on of those 123 distributors 
I bought from Darrell many moons ago when he went to Weber carbs. That 
distributor is kind of pricey now but in my opinion, it really delivers. It 
has 17 different advance curves in it. Mine is set to have about 10 degrees 
at 1,000 RPM, a little over 22 degrees at 2,000 RPM and about 31 degrees at 
4,500 RPM. I am running 93 octain fuel and have been carefull to listen for 
pinging during long pulls up hills and such and the engine seems to be 
tolerating the current timing settings.
I only have about 400 miles on the engine so far so I am not pushing it too 
much but I know it pulls real strong from about 2,000RPM to as high as I 
dare go now (about 4,000RPM very occasionally). I played around with the 
needles too, going one step richer but the plugs fouled so I went back to 
stock and just did a 400 mile tune up and the plug electrodes were tan and 
the surrounding plug was black.
Tuning this thing was way different that any other type of engine I ever 
fooled with I can tell you that. I found that the float levels really affect 
the mixture also as you are adjusting the level of fuel at the main 
jet/needle. Lots of things to think about..
Can you get someone to rev up the engine while you have a set back timing 
light on it? If so, what do you see timing wise at the 1,000, 2,000 and 
4500? Just curious as I think you are right in the problem being timing or 
more acurately advance related..
Dave Connitt

----- Original Message ----- 
aFrom: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 12:16 AM
Subject: [TR] TRactor Engine Timing

> After rebuilding my TR4A engine I've been playing around with the engine
> timing (advance/retard) to dial in the best performance. The engine has 
> the
> Moss cam & 87 MM pistons, but everything else is stock. Stock HS6's, stock
> distributor with Pertronix, new gears and timing chain. The vacuum advance
> is attached.
>
> I never seem to be able to get the full range performance I would expect. 
> I
> can get low end to be great but the top end suffers. Redial it and the top
> end is great but low end is sluggish.
>
> I dont think the carbs are it, as I've changed to richer needles, made it
> richer/leaner, and it didn't help. I did learn that a richer mixture seems
> to hide timing differences.
>
> And I got to thinking that the TR4A distributor has an advance limit built
> into it and was wondering if going to a more full range dizzy would give 
> me
> that full range performance. Shouldn't the dizzy advance and the cam specs
> match up?
>
> Why the limited advance anyway?
>
> BTW, the weather is absolutely bitchin to be driving with top down every 
> day
> here in San Diego. I'm loving it.
>
> Johnnie
>
> 67 TR4A

>From [email-masked]
From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 08:18:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY
References: <29087932.873617.1401744154230.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

Yes.... with caveats:

- They won't fit in the speedo/tach bulb holes if you still have the green 
diffuser in the gauge. The bulb is too long and hits the diffuser
- They CAN NOT be used for the "idiot" lights or turn signals. LEDs are one 
way and for the those lights the current needs to flow both ways. Moss also 
sells bulbs like these and I called tech support about the idiot light 
problem. They agreed that they won't work and that the item should be noted 
as such in the catalog..... they also acknowledged getting support calls 
from people who have used them in the idiot lights.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
1975 Mimosa TR6
TBI, 5 Speed, LSD, CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: thenicholls at verizon.net
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 5:22 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY

Anyone out there purchased and is using these LED instrument lights listed 
on EBAY?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300923024335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Craig
72 Triumph TR6

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 20:11:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw:  LED instrument lights on EBAY

 I ran into the same issue Bob mentions when I tried to use the big LEDS, I
 did however end up figuring out how to get the LED to work for the turn
 signal indicator (with a little help from my internet friends) it wasn't 
too
 hard or expensive, and since I couldn't really see the incandescent in the
 bright sun, and I can see the LED, I thought was worth the effort:

 Take one of these:

 http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm

 (scroll down to E10 Screw Base 4 Led Focused Lens Led Bulbs)

 Put one of these inline to the LED:

 http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062581

 And go from this:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3om56PrC9Rs

 to this:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B80m6kPyero
> Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 12:04:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Bonnet
References: <[email-masked]>

The release cable is fixed to the bonnet release bracket with a push  
on clip. If the clip and cable come off the bracket the cable release  
won't work. (ask me how I know, etc.) I managed to release the latch  
from underneath the car. Had a sore and scraped arm afterwards. I then  
wired the cable and clip to the bracket. It can be done so it's barley  
noticeable. I've just thought that you might be able to pull the  
release and from inside the footwell also pull on the outer cable  
thereby shortening it. If the cable clamp has come loose or is broken,  
then that's another issue.

Allen

> I have a few problems of late with my '64 Triumph, one being the  
> brake lines.
> However, yesterday, when I wanted to check the fluid level, the  
> bonnet appears
> stuck and wont open. How can I easily determine whether the cable is  
> broken.
> Since the release lever does not open it, is there an alternative to  
> opening
> it? How frustrating with nice driving weather, and I can't in the TR4.

>From [email-masked]
From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2014 11:13:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

Guys,
Here I am all ready to go to the TRA National meeting and a light check on
the TR3B reveals no brake lights at all.  Everything else is normal.  The
TR4 is a little better, brake lights come on if you stomp on the pedal.  No
I do not have any spare switches.
 If I can get a couple of those by Tuesday do any of you know if I will
need to bleed the brakes after I install them?  Any other ideas on what to
check??
Thanks,
Darrell

>From [email-masked]
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2014 18:28:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] carpet snap layout
References: <[email-masked]>

On Wed, 4 Jun 2014, at 4:03 PM, Jonas Payne wrote:

>
>
> Does anybody have a diagram showing the carpet snap layout for a TR3?
>
> I replaced the floors in mine, and the old ones were too far gone to make
> any sense of it.
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting Services, LLC
> 702.882.6711
The front carpet is actually a rubber mat. Whether you have the original or
a replacement, they have the snaps already installed. I think your best bet is
to line the rubber mat up to fit the contours of the transmission tunnel, the
firewall and inner sills and place the studs under the snaps on the rubber
mat.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

>From [email-masked]
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 10:04:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes
References: <[email-masked]>

Darrell-

My guess is you are running Dot5 in your system?  That is what I think created
the same problem in my 3A - brakes would only light if I stomped on them,
sensitivity was lost.  My solution was switching to a mechanical switch
mounted under the dash.

I think you can pull that switch quickly and not need a complete rebleed, but
of course plan on bleeding just in case.  But if you do use Dot5, expect this
to be a recurring issue based on what I've seen.

Randy

>From [email-masked]
From: Ronald.Griffing at comcast.net (Ronald.Griffing at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 14:16:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] What fun.
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Mark,

As one of the "Comcasters"... Since June 1st I have 11 [TR] messages in my inbox.  None of them are from you.  I did not see the original of the message you sent below.

Ron Griffing
'62 TR4 CT1550L
~'60 Morris Minor 1000 MA2S3L791631

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>, "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 5, 2014 10:01:49 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] What fun.

Made it through to me...

Tony Drews

At 11:31 PM 6/5/2014, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>At the moment, there are 36,753 pending emails on Team.Net waiting 
>to be delivered to subscribers.
>Most are to Yahoo, AOL, Comcast, Hotmail addresses. You know, small 
>obscure operations. This DMARC
>stuff is killing me.
>
>I wonder how many folks, if any, will actually see this message?
>
>mjb.

>From [email-masked]
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 07:50:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)

The switch is available from Napa Auto parts in both the spade terminal (ECH SL147) and screw terminal types (ECH SL144).  My local staore has both in stock.  They must fit American cars as well.

I have changed these several times without having to bleed the brakes but you need to be fast when you swap the two switches.

Edward Hamer
petaluma CA

>From [email-masked]
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 09:14:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes
References: <[email-masked]>

I think if you remove the reservoir cap, stretch plastic wrap over the
opening and then replace the cap, essentially closing the vent hole to
create a vacuum, you will not lose any fluid. Don't forget to remove the
plastic wrap when you finish the replacement of the switch :-). Even if you
do lose some fluid, it's up stream of the wheel cylinders, so most likely
you won't have to bleed the system. 

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of darrell
floyd
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2014 8:14 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

Guys,
Here I am all ready to go to the TRA National meeting and a light check on
the TR3B reveals no brake lights at all.  Everything else is normal.  The
TR4 is a little better, brake lights come on if you stomp on the pedal.  No
I do not have any spare switches.
 If I can get a couple of those by Tuesday do any of you know if I will need
to bleed the brakes after I install them?  Any other ideas on what to
check??
Thanks,
Darrell

>From [email-masked]
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 16:54:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 09:14:09 -0700
From: "Kinderlehrer"
<kinderlehrer at comcast.net>
To: "'darrell floyd'" <tr250driver at gmail.com>,
   
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake light woes
I think if you
remove the reservoir cap, stretch plastic wrap over the
opening and then
replace the cap, essentially closing the vent hole to
create a vacuum, you
will not lose any fluid. Don't forget to remove the
plastic wrap when you
finish the replacement of the switch :-). Even if you
do lose some fluid, it's
up stream of the wheel cylinders, so most likely
you won't have to bleed the
system. 
Bob

Hi List!
After you are done, squeeze the front brake pads back
against the back of the caliper. This will 'BACKFLUSH' the air bubbles back on
top of the reservoir.
 
-Cosmo Kramer

>From [email-masked]
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 18:04:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw:  LED instrument lights on EBAY
References: <83FE11EAF59440C6A64A9A03CB797324@livingroompc>

Could you repeat the Radio Shack link? I clicked on it an Radio Shack is 
not able to find the part.  I even searched for 2062581 which I guess is 
the part number.

Roger
On 06/07/2014 08:11 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> I ran into the same issue Bob mentions when I tried to use the big 
> LEDS, I
> did however end up figuring out how to get the LED to work for the turn
> signal indicator (with a little help from my internet friends) it 
> wasn't too
> hard or expensive, and since I couldn't really see the incandescent in 
> the
> bright sun, and I can see the LED, I thought was worth the effort:
>
> Take one of these:
>
> http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm
>
> (scroll down to E10 Screw Base 4 Led Focused Lens Led Bulbs)
>
> Put one of these inline to the LED:
>
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062581
>
> And go from this:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3om56PrC9Rs
>
> to this:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B80m6kPyero
>>
>> Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 10:29:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 159
References: <[email-masked]>

Today's Topics:

   1. Re: TR4 Bonnet (Allen Hess)
   2. Brake light woes (darrell floyd)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

RE: the Bonnet.   Do you get resistance or is the cable completely loose?
If you get resistance, have someone push on the hood over the latch area
while you pull the cable.

RE: Brake light switches.  If you can get to the areas where wires attach
and/or to where the actuator plunger goes into the switch, spray in some
contact cleaner.  It's a spray deoxidizing material that cleans off
contacts.  You can get it at places like "Radio Shack."

Ron L

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 09:12:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes
References: <[email-masked]>
 <002401cf8659$58256210$08702630$@net>

if you get speedbleeders, bleeding is very easy.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

>From [email-masked]
From: binduni at gmail.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 07:34:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

Not sure I follow the logic of the Dot 5 fluid - I've used this in at least
a dozen cars I've restored and have never had an issue because of it. I
have, however, learned that the mechanical pressure switch is a finicky
bugger, and have also learned that if I fill the pressure inlet with fluid,
it will push the air out that is trapped in there. Remember, if you have
air in your brake lines, the brakes don't work so well. Same goes for the
switch. You need to "bleed" the air out of it before installing it. I'm not
claiming that the switch works exactly like a mech switch, but pretty
close. If there is enough pressure to engage the brakes, the lights should
come on.

Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must!

Brian

>From [email-masked]
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 12:37:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes
References: <[email-masked]>

I'm not sure there is logic involved, but there is some evidence -  3 cars in
my club, including mine have experienced this.  It doesn't make a lot of sense
to me, but it seems too coincidental to have switches fail completely or
become much less sensitive to pedal pressure to stop working, and its been
after a switch to Dot 5.  Dot 4 flushing/refresh, typical maintenance etc and
I don't know of an issue.  Possibly its related to having some air trapped in
the switch, but in my thinking that would just lead to a spongy pedal feel,
not failure - pressure would be transmitted in the switch through the air
too.

In my case I was still using an older switch so possibly the newer Napa or
equivalent replacement might behave better.

> Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 07:34:18 -0700
> From: binduni at gmail.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Brake light woes
>
> Not sure I follow the logic of the Dot 5 fluid - I've used this in at least
> a dozen cars I've restored and have never had an issue because of it. I
> have, however, learned that the mechanical pressure switch is a finicky
> bugger, and have also learned that if I fill the pressure inlet with fluid,
> it will push the air out that is trapped in there. Remember, if you have
> air in your brake lines, the brakes don't work so well. Same goes for the
> switch. You need to "bleed" the air out of it before installing it. I'm not
> claiming that the switch works exactly like a mech switch, but pretty
> close. If there is enough pressure to engage the brakes, the lights should
> come on.
>
> Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must!
>
> Brian

>From [email-masked]
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 14:29:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?

I was looking for some TR3 items in the UK on eBay and I came across a used
copy of Bill Piggott's "Original TR2/3/3A" offered at $625.00. Can't believe
it, how's that possible?

Dave Willner
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Emoticon9.gif]

>From [email-masked]
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 16:03:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>

 Just "Google" the title and you'll see worse! Sadly, I remember when a decent
TR2/3/3A "driver" cost less than the asking price of some copies of this book!
:(

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

>From [email-masked]
From: italyfound at gmail.com (Italyfound)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 08:01:55 +0200
Subject: [TR] Triumph Club

Quick question on a club in Michigan......

Is anyone familiar with the Detroit Triumph Sports Car Club?

Is this club still active.

I have been trying to contact them but have received no response to emails...

Thx,

Alex Manzo

59 TR3A
72 TR6
00 Fiat Barchetta

>From [email-masked]
From: perryfly at gmail.com (Perry Hammock)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 21:33:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Clutch Taper Pin Removal

Perhaps I finally have something to contribute
today after removing the transmission in my TR3A
I found the clutch fork taper pin was broken at the threads.
read up on the remedies suggested, ecch.

I cleaned up the area, and tried to think of another way.
I got my 1/4 sheet vibrating sander, wedged the grease fitting on the cross
shaft between the platen and the body and let it vibrate the assembly.
After about a minute or so, the pin fell out with out any other
encouragement
Bob's your Uncle! That was easy, and the beer tasted so wonderful.

Just a suggestion next time you face the same dilemma.

Perry Hammock
1960 TR3A O

>From [email-masked]
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 08:49:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>

Tell me when one sells for that price, and then I'll be impressed.  It
takes nothing to ask a crazy amount.

Do you have a link to the listing?  I can't find it...

Don

On 6/13/14, davewillner <davewillner at pa.net> wrote:
> I was looking for some TR3 items in the UK on eBay and I came across a used
> copy of Bill Piggott's "Original TR2/3/3A" offered at $625.00. Can't
> believe
> it, how's that possible?
>
> Dave Willner
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS

>From [email-masked]
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 12:23:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 rotors

I've got a 1957 TR3, the first year the car had disc brakes.

The rotors are shots and  I wanted to replace them. I learned some time 
back that the cars brakes were not original. The pads, shoes, front 
calipers and rear cylinders all seemed to be from a TR4.

I ordered parts from Moss, including 10 3/4" rotors. Unfortunately, 
after getting them and mounting one, I find that the old rotors are 10 
1/4", and the calipers don't fit.

Anyone know what takes a 10 1/4" rotor? TR6 maybe?

-- 
George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

1957 Triumph TR3
1961 Jaguar Mark 2
1975 Triumph TR6
1997 Land Rover Discovery

>From [email-masked]
From: glevit1 at msn.com (glevit1)
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2014 15:08:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Switch Hard to engage with silicone fluid

Follow link for discussion of hydralic switch with silicone fluid.
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et119a.htm

Follow link for this swith which spe if it's that it can be used with silicone fluid and operates on low pressure of 20 to 50 psi

Gerry
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SW-32

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 23:37:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

> Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must!

So, you have to replace the switch every time you use the brakes?  

I've used DOT 5 for several decades now, and I love it.  The original brake light switch in my previous TR3A (which was converted in 1985 or so) lasted a long time, but eventually failed in just the manner described.  It would still work if the pressure was high enough, but the pressure required kept getting higher and higher until even a fairly hard stop would not light the brake lights.  Not a Good Thing.

Several replacements from various sources (including a repro switch from Moss and a Ford replacement from FLAPS) went the same way in fairly short order (less than a year for each one, some in only a few weeks).

Changing to a mechanical switch solved the problem permanently.  Well, almost permanently.  I did have one problem where the reservoir was leaking a tiny amount, and the fluif ran down the pedal and got into the switch ... causing a similar failure in a mechanical switch!  The moral seems clear, DOT 5 and switch contacts do not get along!  A post-mortem on the switch showed moisture along the shaft, which felt like DOT 5, and a hard black substance on the contacts, which I now believe to be silicon from burned DOT 5.

But having been pushed into it, I do rather like having brake lights that come on _before_ braking starts, rather than after.  With the mechanical switch, they come on as soon as I put my foot on the pedal, instead of waiting until the pedal has moved far enough to build pressure in the system.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (Triumph)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 09:20:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>
 <CAPK7CFAJAqkjrDKRXi6hoPc=AxH4f=[email-masked]>

I just typed "Original Triumph TR2/3/3A" in Google and the first listing was 
from Amazon. They show 11 used from $299.95 and 4 new from $614.48 so there 
is something going on. Other sites seem to support this high price also.

Bob Maassel
Fort Wayne, IN
1959 TR3A
tr3abobm77 at frontier.com

>From [email-masked]
From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 10:48:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

Hey Guys,
I did get a switch from Napa, the only one they had in the general area
last Tuesday and put it in the 3B, the lights worked well but I carried
thru with a brake bleed just to be sure.  The Four improved some after a
brake bleed so I just took that one to TRA. Going to put a new switch in
her shortly.
Yes I guess the Dot 5 is ruining the switches.  The 3b switch is only a few
years old. Some say the Napa switches are better?
Cheers,
Darrell

>From [email-masked]
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 09:37:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>

I'm pretty sure that there are often items listed on eBay that are purely
money laundering. There's a particular blank journal that my wife uses,
usually sold for about $20, and we once found one of them listed for $16,000.
Or this reference work (used in my work) that is available for about $300,
here listed for $2,462.63:
  http://r.ebay.com/LnbgWY

But $625 for Piggott's book probably isn't enough to justify anything illegal,
it's more likely someone just trying to test the market.

On Fri, June 13, 2014 13:29, davewillner wrote:
> I was looking for some TR3 items in the UK on eBay and I came across a used
> copy of Bill Piggott's "Original TR2/3/3A" offered at $625.00. Can't believe
> it, how's that possible?
>
> Dave Willner
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 14:06:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>
 <CAPK7CFAJAqkjrDKRXi6hoPc=AxH4f=[email-masked]>
 <F6F5BA8704864FF2A82C463CEB5BF0D2@zora>

The real question is "is anyone buying?"  There is also a used TR3 nose emblem
that has been there for months at only $424.00 + shipping, no takers.

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 16:36:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dzus question

After removing the stanchion plates from the front scuttle, I see that one
of the "S"-shaped pieces (to which the Dzus bolt attaches) has snapped.  I
remember somewhere seeing these pieces new, but I cannot seem to find them.
The guy at Moss Motors didn't even know what I was talking about. Does
anyone have advice on how I could get my hands on one?

As an aside, is anyone else getting frustrated with Moss?  Seems that
recently I have had so many issues:  wrong parts sent, broken stuff, sales
reps not having a clue...

Were that everything worked as well as this list (Hi, Mark !)

Andrew Uprichard.  

>From [email-masked]
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 19:23:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>
 <CAPK7CFAJAqkjrDKRXi6hoPc=AxH4f=[email-masked]>
 <F6F5BA8704864FF2A82C463CEB5BF0D2@zora>

I have a nice copy of that book. Anyone want to give me $100 for it and
flip it for a profit?

Greg G.
Osseo, MN

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 20:02:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>
 <CAPK7CFAJAqkjrDKRXi6hoPc=AxH4f=[email-masked]>
 <F6F5BA8704864FF2A82C463CEB5BF0D2@zora>

Do you think people will actually pay anywhere near those asking prices for 
the books?, I know when I was looking the the equivalent book for the TR4-6 
they were asking in the $100 or more range, I eventually found one on E-bay 
Canada for about $20 and pounced, but don't know if there are such bargains 
anymore.  But I can't imagine paying that kind of money for a recently 
published book that retailed for less than a tenth that a few years ago even 
if I did have that kind of money to spend on such a book.

Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 22:00:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets

hi.

Ibve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3.

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping someone
could tell me where these go.

thanks!

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 18:16:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes
References: <[email-masked]>
 <20140613233738.SPGRW.11668.root@cdptpa-web27>

On the subject of brake light switches... this is the mechanical switch I
added on my other (non-TR) British car:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5DILY/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item

I left the hydraulic switch in place (which has not failed despite my using
DOT5) and added the above switch with a simple metal bracket in the
footwell operated by pedal arm movement.  I had no problems with the
hydraulic switch but do like that the mechanical switch operates the brake
lights with only the slightest pedal movement - which may happen well in
advance of serious braking.

Looking at the TR3A pedal box I think that same switch might fit into the
hole in the front lip of the box to be actuated by the upper tip of the
pedal arm (very similar to a TR4 switch).  Otherwise, an interior bracket
may be needed.

Yeah, I know the usuals carry mechanical switches but I have heard mixed
results with those (esp the white plastic version) whereas this metal
version has been used by quite a few LBC owners with success.

Geo

On Fri, Jun 13, 2014 at 4:37 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must!
>
> So, you have to replace the switch every time you use the brakes?
>
> I've used DOT 5 for several decades now, and I love it.  The original
> brake light switch in my previous TR3A (which was converted in 1985 or so)
> lasted a long time, but eventually failed in just the manner described.  It
> would still work if the pressure was high enough, but the pressure required
> kept getting higher and higher until even a fairly hard stop would not
> light the brake lights.  Not a Good Thing.
>
> Several replacements from various sources (including a repro switch from
> Moss and a Ford replacement from FLAPS) went the same way in fairly short
> order (less than a year for each one, some in only a few weeks).
>
> Changing to a mechanical switch solved the problem permanently.  Well,
> almost permanently.  I did have one problem where the reservoir was leaking
> a tiny amount, and the fluif ran down the pedal and got into the switch ...
> causing a similar failure in a mechanical switch!  The moral seems clear,
> DOT 5 and switch contacts do not get along!  A post-mortem on the switch
> showed moisture along the shaft, which felt like DOT 5, and a hard black
> substance on the contacts, which I now believe to be silicon from burned
> DOT 5.
>
> But having been pushed into it, I do rather like having brake lights that
> come on _before_ braking starts, rather than after.  With the mechanical
> switch, they come on as soon as I put my foot on the pedal, instead of
> waiting until the pedal has moved far enough to build pressure in the
> system.
>
> Randall
>

>From [email-masked]
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 11:06:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>
 <CAPK7CFAJAqkjrDKRXi6hoPc=AxH4f=[email-masked]>
 <F6F5BA8704864FF2A82C463CEB5BF0D2@zora>

On 6/16/14, 6:20 AM, Triumph wrote:
> I just typed "Original Triumph TR2/3/3A" in Google and the first 
> listing was from Amazon. They show 11 used from $299.95 and 4 new from 
> $614.48 so there is something going on. Other sites seem to support 
> this high price also.
>
geeeezzzz Maybe I should sell my copy.

TeriAnn

>From [email-masked]
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 07:22:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  LED instrument lights on EBAY
References: <83FE11EAF59440C6A64A9A03CB797324@livingroompc>
 <[email-masked]>

Try searching for 2062580 (I think that might be the catalog page number) or
search for "rectifiers".

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger
Elliott
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2014 7:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: LED instrument lights on EBAY

Could you repeat the Radio Shack link? I clicked on it an Radio Shack is not
able to find the part.  I even searched for 2062581 which I guess is the
part number.

Roger

>From [email-masked]
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 08:15:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets
References: <[email-masked]>

Those look like the gaskets that are attached to the bottom side of the
doors.  There is a series of holes that accept special clips (TRF
number 552901) that hold the seals in place.  Note that the seal rolls
up the leading edge of the door.

I don't recognize the metal strip.

Dave Massey
57 TR3 (and others)

-----Original Message-----
From: dave n <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 16, 2014 11:48 pm
Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets

hi.

Ibve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3.

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping
someone
could tell me where these go.

thanks!

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 05:48:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets
References: <[email-masked]>

Possibly door seals / draft seals?

See item 19 here:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29160&SortOrder=410

And items 40 & 42 here:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29156

On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 8:00 PM, dave n <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> hi.
>
> Ib ve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3.
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
>
> its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping
> someone
> could tell me where these go.
>
> thanks!
>

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 13:13:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets

---- dave n <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> hi.
>
> Ibve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3.
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
>
> its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping
someone
> could tell me where these go.

They look to me like the water seals that go along the bottom of the doors;
plus a short section where the top of the door meets the scuttle.

Unfortunately, they might also be the ones that don't fit very good.  The
originals were somehow molded with varying density, so the section that goes
into the clips on the door was much firmer than the lip that goes against the
body; allowing the clip to hold while the rest of the seal crushed to fit.
Many if not all of the seals available today have the firmer density all the
way, so they don't crush and hold the door open slightly.

Good Luck,
Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 23:29:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Clutch Taper Pin Removal
References: <[email-masked]>

Way to go, Perry! Thanks for passing that on.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Perry Hammock" <perryfly at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2014 9:33 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Clutch Taper Pin Removal

> Perhaps I finally have something to contribute
> today after removing the transmission in my TR3A
> I found the clutch fork taper pin was broken at the threads.
> read up on the remedies suggested, ecch.
>
> I cleaned up the area, and tried to think of another way.
> I got my 1/4 sheet vibrating sander, wedged the grease fitting on the 
> cross
> shaft between the platen and the body and let it vibrate the assembly.
> After about a minute or so, the pin fell out with out any other
> encouragement
> Bob's your Uncle! That was easy, and the beer tasted so wonderful.
>
> Just a suggestion next time you face the same dilemma.
>
> Perry Hammock
> 1960 TR3A O
>

>From [email-masked]
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 16:08:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] K&N air filters, oil, and cleaner

Don't know if anyone on the list will see this, but I will send anyway.

I have a set of used K&N Air filters, oil, and cleaner on Ebay.  Item number 221463677155 .

If anyone is interested (Financial interest), please contact me at "TheNicholls at Verizon.Net".

Thanks,

Craig 
72 Triumph TR6

>From [email-masked]
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 19:23:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal

     I have a Triumph Renown that leaks oil out the rear seal at the rate of
about a quart every 20 miles. It is really something. I am thinking of going
through the engine next winter. Moss charges about $200 for a lip type rear
seal conversion kit. I see something similar on Ebay for $99. Has anyone tried
one of these? Is it the same?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151290877125?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m
1423.l2649

     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

>From [email-masked]
From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 00:20:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] K&N air filters, oil, and cleaner
References: <19443631.439973.1403039307084.JavaMail.root@vznit170126>

I saw it.

On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 4:08 PM, <thenicholls at verizon.net> wrote:

> Don't know if anyone on the list will see this, but I will send anyway.
>
>
> I have a set of used K&N Air filters, oil, and cleaner on Ebay.  Item
> number 221463677155 .
>
>
> If anyone is interested (Financial interest), please contact me at
> "TheNicholls at Verizon.Net".
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Craig
> 72 Triumph TR6

-- 
pethier at comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 14:28:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

> I left the hydraulic switch in place (which has not failed 
> despite my using
> DOT5) and added the above switch with a simple metal bracket in the
> footwell operated by pedal arm movement. 

FWIW, here's a shot of my bracket & switch on the TR3.
http://tinyurl.com/of5qowk

Someday I'll "restore" that area and clean things up a bit, this was a quick and dirty to get the car on the road in time for TRfest
2009.

> Looking at the TR3A pedal box I think that same switch might 
> fit into the
> hole in the front lip of the box to be actuated by the upper 
> tip of the
> pedal arm (very similar to a TR4 switch).

Probably not the same switch, but I found one at FLAPS that would fit in that position on my previous TR3A.  However, the TR3 has
pedal stops in those holes (as original), and I didn't really like having the obviously wrong switch hanging out under the hood
anyway.  Hence the above setup (which is invisible unless you crawl under the dash).

> Yeah, I know the usuals carry mechanical switches but I have 
> heard mixed
> results with those (esp the white plastic version) whereas this metal
> version has been used by quite a few LBC owners with success.

Again FWIW, the mixed metal/plastic switch shown in the above shot lasted less than 2 years from installation.  I'm currently
running one of the white plastic ones from TRF, and it has been working fine since 2010.  

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2014 20:26:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] List up and running?

I haven't received anything in several days.

Carl
1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
Tampa, FL

>From [email-masked]
From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2014 11:27:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil

My friend's TR6 is consuming oil.  In addition, the #5 spark plug fouls
regularly and needs to be cleaned or replaced to run smoothly again.  I am
guessing these two issues might be related...  The oil fouling the plug...
If that is the case, what is the most likely route for the oil problem?
>From the cylinder head?  Or from the rings?

Creig

Creig Houghtlaing 314-401-7817
St. Louis Triumph Owners Association
www.sltoa.org

>From [email-masked]
From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2014 21:12:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Exhaust Pieces

Would John DeLuca please send me the name and address
of the source for stainless TR4A exhaust pieces he purchased.

Many thanks!  George

>From [email-masked]
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 10:15:06 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil
References: <[email-masked]>

In the first instance, a compression test should indicate No5 being low.
If so put a small amount of oil down the plug hole and do the test on this
bore again. If it rises significantly then this would confirm the piston or
piston rings are at fault.
IMHO if the overall compressions on all cyls are low I am afraid its a
major rebuild.

Adrian
TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK

On 22 June 2014 17:27, Creig Houghtaling <creig555 at live.com> wrote:

> My friend's TR6 is consuming oil.  In addition, the #5 spark plug fouls
> regularly and needs to be cleaned or replaced to run smoothly again.  I am
> guessing these two issues might be related...  The oil fouling the plug...
> If that is the case, what is the most likely route for the oil problem?
> From the cylinder head?  Or from the rings?
>
> Creig
>
> Creig Houghtlaing 314-401-7817
> St. Louis Triumph Owners Association
> www.sltoa.org

>From [email-masked]
From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:50:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil
References: <[email-masked]>
 <CAJbHsd9=[email-masked]>

It has been a while since we have done a compression checkb&  Thatbs a good
thing to check.  Thanks.

>From [email-masked]
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 12:05:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] mounting trunk lid & spare tire cover gaskets.s

In the past I have mounted the trunk ld gasket and spare tire cove gasket for
my TR3A with adhesive.  Eighteen years ago I used contact cement and the
mounting was tedious and difficult.

This time around I attempted to use 3M Super Strength trim adhesive. After
three attempts yielding only partiel bonding results I decided to try a
special plastic bonding agent I had bought for a difficult plastic bonding
project.

The product I used is Tech Bond.  I found that I could put a few drops in the
channel for the gasket and then push the gasket firmly down into the channel
and get strong adhesion within second.

I repaired the loose areas of the trunk lid gasket this way.  Then for the
spare tire cove gasket I began by cutting it to size and bonding the ends
togethewr with two drops of Tech Bond.  Then I placed the gasket into the
channel the way it should fit and held it in place with strips of painters
tape every foot or so.  Then I would pull a section of the gasket out of the
channel and place a few drops of Tech Bond on the gasket mounting surface.
Then I would use a tongue depressor to push the gasket into the channel until
it was firmly seated.  I would hold the gasket in place for a few seconds and
then repeat the process on another section.

I had the spare tire cover gasket mounted in less than 30 minutes with no need
for masking, or spraying adhesive, and no clean up.  One word opf caution is
do not get Teck Bond on your fingers and then touch the gasket or you will be
glued to the gasket.

The URL for Tech Bond is below:

http://shop.tech-bond.net/Tech-Bond-Starter-Kits-for-your-repair-7001.htm

Get the stater kit with the SI Blue adhesive.  Also be careful about using the
spray Activator as it will cause instantaneous bonding.
I have no financial interest in the product.

Best regards,
Tom

>From [email-masked]
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 14:10:00 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal
References: <[email-masked]>

I would take a look at the www.tr4_racing.com web site. It contains details
of a far better set up which retains the scroll, (a belt and braces set
up.)
The US agent is Joe Alexander, he is on the list.

Adrian
TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:21:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal

> Moss charges about $200 for a 
> lip type rear
> seal conversion kit. I see something similar on Ebay for $99. 
> Has anyone tried
> one of these? Is it the same?

My suggestion would be to stay far, far away from the conversion that requires the scroll to be ground off.  Numerous people have
reported that the result leaked worse than the original (which can be made to work quite well if you use the updated mandrel
dimensions instead of those shown in the manuals).  One of our local club members had to have the crank replaced after a mistake was
discovered in the instructions.  (The instructions I got had been changed by hand twice!)

If you want a lip type seal, the 'Viton' conversion offered (only) by TRF and ARE is much better, IMO.  It doesn't require the
scroll to be ground off, and actually keeps the scroll seal functional; adding the lip seal as a secondary seal.  The only suggested
crank mod is to polish the area between the scroll and flange.  Note that the kit includes a mandrel made to the corrected
dimensions.  (I've heard reports that the one sold by Moss is wrong.)

http://tinyurl.com/pfmoqw2

Honestly, though, a quart every 20 miles seems extreme.  Are you certain it is the rear main seal and not one of the plugs on the
block and/or head?  Is the oil level correct?

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 13:31:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] List up and running?
References: <[email-masked]>

DMARC has totally f'ed up mailing lists. We are using the Mailman utility as
part of the VTR hosted service offered to affiliates for our club mailing
lists and it is a mess. This may be the last straw before we just give up and
move everything to Facebook.

Stan

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 08:55:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal
References: <[email-masked]>

Bill -

I have not done this but would be wary of the kits (Moss & ebay) that
require grinding the crank.  Some find this works out well for them but I
recall some who had problems & the 'fix' is irreversible.

Instead, I believe there is an alternative that does not modify the crank
or (of course) the original style seal can be renewed.

Okay, a search turns up this:

http://www.the-vintage-racer.com/index.php/categoryhome/engine-components/product/53-vsk-t34

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 11:36:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Standard-Triumph Marque Day at Brooklands over the weekend

The Standard Triumph Marque Day was held at Brooklands yesterday (June 22,
2014).
http://www.standardmotorclub.org.uk/standard-triumph-marque-day.html

Looks like it would have been fun to attend.  That Dolomite tribute car
would have been especially interesting.  Lotsa pix here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/philip-smith/sets/72157645307413014/

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2014 0:54:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil

> > My friend's TR6 is consuming oil.  In addition, the #5 spark plug fouls
> > regularly and needs to be cleaned or replaced to run smoothly again.  I am
> > guessing these two issues might be related...  The oil fouling the plug...
> > If that is the case, what is the most likely route for the oil problem?
> > From the cylinder head?  Or from the rings?

Unfortunately, the most likely explanation IMO is damage to the cylinder wall or piston.  Might be just a broken ring, or badly worn valve guide, though.

Rather than mess with a compression test (which can sometimes be misleading), I would go ahead and pull the head to check the valve.  Your friend knows he has a problem, and he will need to pull the head anyway, even if the problem is rings/piston/cylinder wall.  And it's worth checking the valves when the head is off even if they aren't the primary problem.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:30:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil
References: <Hmrd1o00D0NyJgq01mre2e>

Do a leak down test on it to determine whether it's the rings or the valves.

Mine was burning lots of oil too - it was the rings and the valve guides.

The oil scraper rings were seriously stuck in what appeared to be a
carbon-concrete.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2014 16:12:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 interior (not tr3a)

anyone who has a more or less correct tr3 b would you mind contacting me
offline?  I need some interior photos.

thanks

dave at ranteer.com

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:40:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?

> But $625 for Piggott's book probably isn't enough to justify 
> anything illegal,
> it's more likely someone just trying to test the market.

Agree.  I believe it was PT Barnum that said there is one born every minute.  And there seem to be several book sellers that
speculate in this type of book, waiting for someone to come along that just has to have one, no matter the price.

Someone asked for a link:
http://tinyurl.com/kdedfy6

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: italyfound at gmail.com (Italyfound)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2014 11:51:26 +0200
Subject: [TR] Test

Is this server down? Email being rejected...

Alex Manzo

---

From: James_ <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 13:03:14 -0700

Yup. Loosened the spring connectors clamps. I got them close finally. 
I'll take for a test drive (again) and see how the idle is and the dieseling is when I turn it off. Had a little run on last test. But the anti run on valve tested correctly. 
I may have them running a little rich now. But judging from the old 'lift the carb valve' test, the engine dies which says lean. I have the needles all but 3/4 turn rich! Hmm. 
Getting closer.  

bSent from my Atari 2600b

> On Sep 20, 2014, at 11:38 AM, "Mark J Bradakis" <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> James_ wrote:
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

---

From: Mark J Bradakis <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 16:26:08 -0600

I'd check for leaks where the manifold mates to the head and at the carb gaskets.
If you lived closer to Salt Lake City I'd say stop on by and I'll take a look. But
the symptoms could be from an air leak.

On a side note, nice to see the 6pack list is working. Not doing much car stuff today,
trying to fill in all the missing months in the archive. Not that simple, as it turns
out, but I am making some progress, I think.  Click on the archive link below to see
when the missing bits show up.

Actually I did put new plugs in an old Land Rover this afternoon, not exactly an "L"BC,
but mostly computer stuff this weekend.

mjb.

[email-masked]

---

From: Dale <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 03:51:48 -0700

James

What are you using on your lift test? 

This should not be more then a 1/16". Try using a .030 & a .025  feeler strip together or two .030's if you have them. What are your results?

Dale

________________________________
 From: James_ <[email-masked]>
To: Mark J Bradakis <[email-masked]> 
Cc: 6 Pack <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2014 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb tuning

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

---

From: James_ <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 10:49:15 -0700

Oh. All my instructions say use a screw driver and lift 1/4"!
I have a screwdriver that is exactly that and turned it sideways to get 1/4. 
Hmmm. 
Well yesterday I drove about 70 miles. Boy did the gas suck out. Wayyy too rich! I turned the needles back 1/2 turn but may need more. The plugs still look clean and this morning did not smell of gas. 
I had a little run on and one whooper of a backfire out the pipes when I got home and turned off the engine. Extra  gas left over I suspect. 
But she ran awesome! No flat spots like before. I am learning after 22 years of owning this beauty! Hah. 
I have gotten it to run well but never super awesome. I am not a pro at tuning those suckas. Ugh. 
Getting there though. 

> On Sep 21, 2014, at 3:51 AM, "Dale" <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> James
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]

[email-masked]