Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.

From: Tom Lofgren <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 18:20:31 -0800

Don't get the Harbor Freight one - they don't sell replacement nozzles.  I
got an inexpensive one at Sears, and they do have extra nozzles.

For areas that aren't visible body parts, you really don't have to worry
about heat.  I usually run at about 80PSI and that works well with rust.

Sandblasting with regular sand is generally a bad idea because of the free
silica. According to what I have read, even using a P100 rated mask isn't
good enough.   Harbor Freight sells aluminum oxide blast media, which costs
way more than sand, but doesn't have the free silica issue.  Worth the $40
in my opinion.  By the way, this media eats standard nozzles, as quickly as
in 30 minutes of blasting.  So get the extra nozzles when you buy the
blaster.

Make sure you cover up everything you can because the media gets
everywhere.  And try to prime as soon as you're done blasting, or you'll
get more rust pretty quickly and you can do it all over again.

Tom

On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 4:19 PM, James_ <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Tired of all my questions yet?
> I have some rust on the firewall in the engine compartment on either side
> of
> the transmission. Getting a grinder down there will be a pain. I'm
> thinking of
> low pressure sand blasting. I read soda blasting isn't strong enough for
> rust.
> I also have the area where the PDWA brake device is mounted.
> Harbor Freight sells a small unit.
> Anyone want to chime in. Experience. Advice?
> I read to be careful over heating. So I think lower compression is best.
> But I
> am new at this.
>
> Thanks
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---

From: James_ <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 20:42:00 -0800

Awesome. Thanks for the tip about the tips. I was thinking of going with
either walnut shells or the oxide.

I dread having to remove the brake and clutch lines and cylinders and brake
booster to allow unobstructed access to paint the compartment. I have some
rust in those higher areas too. I plan to blend in the urethane as best as I
can to avoid painting the entire engine compartment. Especially since I've
never painted before. But have some left over paint and thought I'd try my
hand at the less visible engine compartment. I'll leave the outside body paint
to the pros who aren't just painting in a garage!

> On Feb 10, 2015, at 6:20 PM, "Tom Lofgren" <[email-masked]>
> Sandblasting with regular sand is generally a bad idea because of the free
silica. According to what I have read, even using a P100 rated mask isn't good
enough.   Harbor Freight sells aluminum oxide blast media, which costs way
more than sand, but doesn't have the free silica issue.  Worth the $40 in my
opinion.  By the way, this media eats standard nozzles, as quickly as in 30
minutes of blasting.  So get the extra nozzles when you buy the blaster.
>
> Make sure you cover up everything you can because the media gets everywhere.
And try to prime as soon as you're done blasting, or you'll get more rust
pretty quickly and you can do it all over again.
of
>> the transmission. Getting a grinder down there will be a pain. I'm thinking
of
rust.
But I

[email-masked]

---

From: "dave n" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 08:43:01 -0600

a few years ago I used crushed up lava.  worked pretty well.  most sand 
blasting places have a selection of material.

think safety!!!!!

-----Original Message----- 
From: James_
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 10:42 PM
To: Tom Lofgren
Cc: 6 Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.

hand at the less visible engine compartment. I'll leave the outside body 
paint

[email-masked]

---

From: Bob Labuz <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 09:58:52 -0500

I used that black coal residue blasting media. It comes in coarse and 
fine grade. I used the fine. It is cheap so you can blast outdoors and 
not have to worry about media recovery.

My outdoor blaster also came from Sears. It works very good but you have 
to keep the media very dry.

I setup one of those portable garages and covered the sides with plastic 
used for painting. Very cheap at Lowes. That way, all the dust stays in 
the tent and wont bother your neighbors.

If you do choose to blast out doors, get one of those blasting hoods + 
always wear a good dust respirator  and a good set of gloves. Best to 
also wear overalls from head to toe. That media gets everywhere!

Bob

[email-masked]

---

From: Larry Young <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 10:13:06 -0600

You have to use low pressure or you will warp sheet metal, like 90 psi 
or less.  I like Dupont Starblast.  Takes it off quickly.  I do it 
outside on a driveway and put up a crude fence to catch most of it.  I 
sweep up and reuse the media, so I can usually do a car body with about 
3 bags.  I think they made them cheaper as they went along, because my 
TR250 had color on all the surfaces, top and bottom.
  - Larry

On 2/11/2015 8:43 AM, dave n wrote:
> a few years ago I used crushed up lava.  worked pretty well.  most 
> sand blasting places have a selection of material.
>
> think safety!!!!!
>
> -----Original Message----- From: James_
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

---

From: Larry Young <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 17:59:58 -0600

I use an inexpensive 100lb pressure blaster (avoid siphon blasters), 
bought from one of the discount tool outfits.  I think the brand name is 
Brut.  Not sure about grits on Starblast.  It's not an expensive media, 
especially when compared to paint cost.  The flat surfaces are the only 
ones subject to warping, so just be careful with those.  Hold the gun at 
an angle and don't dwell too long in one spot.  This is a dirty nasty 
job.  You also need a decent compressor, like 5 to 7 1/2 hp two stage, 
or you will be waiting a lot.  I'd look for someone you can trust to do 
it.  Do you have kids that will work cheap? Promise to will the car to 
them. Mine would never do the dirty work. I forgot to tell you to strain 
the media through a sieve before reusing.
  - Larry

On 2/13/2015 12:59 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
> Larry;
>
> So what are you using for a gun/nozzle with the StarBlast?
> Is that media only made in one grade/weight?
>
> Dave
>
> On Fri, Feb 13, 2015 at 11:13 AM, Larry Young <[email-masked] 
>
>     You have to use low pressure or you will warp sheet metal, like 90
>     psi or less.  I like Dupont Starblast.  Takes it off quickly.  I
>     do it outside on a driveway and put up a crude fence to catch most
>     of it.  I sweep up and reuse the media, so I can usually do a car
>     body with about 3 bags.  I think they made them cheaper as they
>     went along, because my TR250 had color on all the surfaces, top
>     and bottom.
>      - Larry
>
>
>         a few years ago I used crushed up lava.  worked pretty well. 
>         most sand blasting places have a selection of material.
>
>         think safety!!!!!
>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]

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