Subject: [6pack] Refiring my TR6

From: Timothy Holbrook <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2015 00:58:39 +0000 (UTC)

Hi everyone,
After four years in storage (my eldest son is now almost three and a half
years old, so you understand why the Triumph as gone on the backburner!), it's
time to get the my '71 TR6 back on the road.
I'm planning to do a quick rebuild of the carbs and fuel pump (I'm sure time
and that darned ethanol-blend fuel hasn't been kind to them), as well as
replace the rear wheel cylinders (seals appear to be shot, as brake pedal goes
to floor and there is a little puddle under each rear wheel).B  Will also buy
a new brake master cylinder in case that's shot.

Couple of questions for the list:
1. In the past when the car has sat for a long time, I have spun the engine
with the starter for a while before firing, to get the oil circulated.B  To
reduce strain on the "dry" engine when doing this, I have removed the spark
plugs and removed the rocker shaft, so that the engine can spin with very
little resistance.B  However, my dad recommended just removing the distributor
and pulling the cam gear out, and just spinning the oil pump with a drill.B 
Is that possible in a TR6?B  I'm not clear how I'm going to connect my drill
to the oil pump.B  If I remember right, the shaft that goes from the cam gear
to the oil pump is press-fit into the cam gear, so it's not like I can connect
it to my drill.B  Any thoughts?
2. I remember reading that there are 0.75" rear wheel cylinders available
which give slightly better braking performance, especially when paired with
the Toyota 4-pot front calipers (which I may do in the near future).B  Where
do we get these 0.75" wheel cylinders?

2. I may need to replace the clutch master cylinder.B  Should I go with the
0.70" or 0.75" bore?B  I understand the 0.75 will give me higher pedal
pressure but more movement of the slave, which seems a good idea considering
how close the tolerances are with clutch-throw on these cars.B  What do you
all think?B B 
3. Anyone have any experience with these new "nitrophyl" carb floats that I
see on Moss's website?B  They are apparently a solid float instead of hollow,
thus the problem of a hole in the float is eliminated.B  Seems like a neat
idea while the carbs are being rebuilt.
Thanks all,
Tim Holbrook1971 TR6 (hopefully back on the road this spring!)
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