Subject: Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...

From: J B via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 17:14:09 +0000 (UTC)

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Great question about the floors that I am also contemplating. I like seeing=
 all the responses to the questions.=C2=A0
I did not know the answer but I found a good answer online that matched oth=
er responses from (I have no link/business to them) :=C2=A0www.muskegonbrak=
e.com
=C2=A0Converting to silicone brake fluid has pros and cons, all of which sh=
ould be considered before making the transition.. To start with, there are =
a few very good reasons to convert to DOT5 silicone brake fluid:=C2=A0  =20
   - =C2=A0Silicone fluid is non-hydroscopic (it doesn=E2=80=99t attract or=
 absorb water)
   - =C2=A0It will not ruin paint (glycol fluid will remove paint)
   - =C2=A0Silicone brake fluid has a higher dry boiling point than DOT3 an=
d DOT4 fluid, providing better, more rugged performance under pressure
   - =C2=A0Silicone is a full synthetic fluid with superior lubrication pro=
perties for the pistons in the braking system (reduces wear on the seals an=
d pistons)
=C2=A0As great as all this sounds, there are a few drawbacks as well:=C2=A0=
  =20
   - Silicone brake fluid does not mix with water, so any water that enters=
 the system will travel to the lowest point (low point in caliper ore line)
   - It will not mix with glycol based DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1 fluids (can cr=
eate a gel, damaging braking system if mixed)
   - Silicone brake fluid cannot be used in ABS braking systems
=C2=A0These drawbacks should be taken into consideration before you switch,=
 to make sure that a) your auto's braking system is up for the conversion, =
and b) the conversion to silicone brake fluid is done properly to ensure no=
 damage is done to the vehicle.=C2=A0The best time to convert to silicone b=
rake fluid is when you are replacing the major brake system components, esp=
ecially the master cylinder and calipers. =C2=A0Installing our Super Brake =
Kit is a great example. With the Super Brake Kit, you will replace all four=
 calipers, rubber hoses, and the master cylinder, removing all brake fluid =
from the system and allowing for an easy conversion.=C2=A0When pouring sili=
cone brake fluid, do so slowly. =C2=A0DOT5 fluid has the ability to become =
aerated easily, which means that when handled quickly it can develop small =
bubbles. =C2=A0Pouring slowly to minimize splashing is best. Similarly, it =
has been suggested that if you uncap a bottle of DOT5 the day before you pl=
an to work on the vehicle, it will allow any trapped air bubbles to rise to=
 the top and dissipate.=C2=A0When bleeding the brakes, use nice, even strok=
es to minimize the cavitation, which can create air bubbles. Alternatively,=
 gravity bleeding is another way to reduce the amount of air bubbles in the=
 system.=C2=A0Hope this helps.
JBLong live team 6pack!=20

     On Wednesday, June 10, 2015 9:25 AM, Jim Jones via 6pack <6pack@autox.=
team.net> wrote:
  =20

 James:
These are not particularly rare cars (yet) so it's hard to make a case for =
the kind of repair this British car "artiste" is pushing. Objectively speak=
ing, this guy is so stubbornly set in his ways that I would walk away from =
him - no run!

I had a moment of truth like that with my car. It was there in plain sight =
when I drove 700 miles to buy it - fiberglass patch on the panel beneath th=
e battery. It was not exactly pristine correct but it was solid. I had to m=
ake a decision then, but I did buy it. After all the other work I did on th=
e car it was NOT an item that ever caused me concern. Frankly, if I was fac=
ed with doing that same repair I probably would have done the same thing.
What I'm saying here is that if you enjoy your car and are otherwise happy =
with it, save yourself some money and have it fixed in whatever way that ma=
kes sense. Like paint and modifications, repairs can be re-done by future o=
wners.
PS - Silicone fluid is just fantastic!=C2=A0
Jim Jones

      From: James_ via 6pack <[email-masked]>
 To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>=20
 Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2015 3:42 PM
 Subject: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...
  =20
#yiv5169001218 #yiv5169001218 -- .yiv5169001218hmmessage P{margin:0px;paddi=
ng:0px;}#yiv5169001218 body.yiv5169001218hmmessage{font-size:12pt;font-fami=
ly:Calibri;}#yiv5169001218 Hi all=E2=80=A6
First=E2=80=A6.I am so depressed - I may sell the TR6 and walk away=E2=80=
=A6.seriously=E2=80=A6even after 22 years of my entire adult life.
I just met and got a quote from a guy that generally works on Austin Healey=
's=E2=80=A6and I gather he does very high end work=E2=80=A6.and accustom to=
 people with deep pockets.So that was probably my mistake, but still is pro=
bably the best approach to have work done 100% thorough and correct.
First: I was told floor pans require the car body to be off the frame to re=
place.First overwhelming thought=E2=80=A6body of the car? ugh.
Second: I have a few bad spots of rust that need panels fabricated and weld=
ed. The worse is under the master cylinder and rust haseaten through the in=
ner and outer wheel arch. It affects the pedal box too.(I can send a pictur=
e if anyone is interested)
So the guy was really wanting the body removed, sand blasted, panels repair=
ed and powder coated.Sounds awesome. But it all gets down to time and money=
. a LOT of money and the rest of the year.Roughly, looking at $10-20K. for =
a TR6. yikes. Not sure I love the car that much. I know repairing old cars =
will ALWAYS cost more than a car is worth.I know that. Don't lecture about =
that. But...my rust is not a 'rust bucket' by any means. And for $20K I can=
=C2=A0find a car=C2=A0that=C2=A0comes close to showroom condition!!!
I guess I am so depressed / disappointed / overwhelmed / sad / hmmmm=E2=80=
=A6.what else=E2=80=A6
=E2=80=A6I am at a loss as to what to do. One option: Say screw it and live=
 with the rotten areas, put the car back to gather and drive it.or:Sell the=
 dang thing and walk away. Maybe I finally reached that "mercy=E2=80=A6merc=
y=E2=80=A6no more=E2=80=A6make it stop" stage.- I doubt I could bring mysel=
f to buy a TR6 again=E2=80=A6.I mean, what's the point. Mine isn't THAT awf=
ul and =C2=A0I know the history of THIS car.
Or:another option=E2=80=A6.(my original desire/thought) is to have the area=
s repaired and new floor boards installed by someone that does a really goo=
d welding job=C2=A0but not nearly as intense of a procedure=C2=A0or expensi=
ve. I know=E2=80=A6you get what you pay for.=C2=A0
This winter: I removed everything from the engine to detail it out and ever=
ything is ready to go back in once the rust was fixed and engine bay painte=
d.At this point, I may as well sell off all the PARTS - they'd be worth mor=
e they the car as a whole at this point. And everything is removed!(only ha=
lf kidding=E2=80=A6.)

Oh, one more thing=E2=80=A6.this guy is DEAD set against my thought of swit=
ching to Silicone brake fluid. I mean, DEAD set against and talking about w=
arranty being voided if I use it.I looked at him and said: "What Warranty i=
s that?" "It isn't like there is a dealership I can go to" "I buy parts, I =
put them on." I am the warranty department!He mentioned the warranty of the=
 parts I buy from Moss, etc. hmmmm=E2=80=A6.They void it if the silicone fa=
lls the parts.Really? Moss SELLS Silicone brake fluid.=C2=A0I suspect all t=
his is because his DAD is against Silicone and he just follows what his dad=
 hates.=C2=A0
I was recently curious why=C2=A0auto stores don't seem to carry DOT 5 Silic=
one as much as the other types. So now with this restoration guy's comments=
=E2=80=A6is Silicone THAT bad/poorly rated?
Well, any advice or words of comfort?
James
1976 TR6=C2=A0
=20
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

oo.com

  =20
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

ahoo.com

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<html><body><div style=3D"color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:He=
lveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:16px"><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981" dir=3D"ltr"><spa=
n id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61994">Great question about the floors t=
hat I am also contemplating. I like seeing all the responses to the questio=
ns.&nbsp;</span></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981" dir=3D"l=
tr"><span><br></span></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981" dir=
=3D"ltr"><span id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62328">I did not know the a=
nswer but I found a good answer online that matched other responses from (I=
 have no link/business to them) :&nbsp;</span><span style=3D"color: rgb(0, =
102, 33); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16p=
x; white-space: nowrap;" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62533" class=3D""=
><a href=3D"http://www.muskegonbrake.com/" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089=
_62531">www.muskegonbrake.c</a>om</span></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_14339=
10730089_61981" dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"color: rgb(0, 102, 33); font-fam=
ily: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: no=
wrap;" class=3D""><br></span></div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px;=
 font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, Helvetica, san=
s-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.1599998474121px; line-height=
: 18px;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62378">&nbsp;Convertin=
g to silicone brake fluid has pros and cons, all of which should be conside=
red before making the transition.. To start with, there are a few very good=
 reasons to convert to DOT5 silicone brake fluid:</div><div style=3D"margin=
: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', A=
rial, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.15999984=
74121px; line-height: 18px;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62=
377">&nbsp;</div><ul style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 18px; padding=
-left: 0px; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, Hel=
vetica, sans-serif; list-style-type: none; line-height: 18px; color: rgb(51=
, 51, 51); font-size: 12.1599998474121px;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_14=
33910730089_62373"><li style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 25px; bac=
kground-image: none; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: no-re=
peat;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62376">&nbsp;Silicone fl=
uid is non-hydroscopic (it doesn=E2=80=99t attract or absorb water)</li><li=
 style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 25px; background-image: none; b=
ackground-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: no-repeat;" class=3D"" id=
=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62375">&nbsp;It will not ruin paint (glycol =
fluid will remove paint)</li><li style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px=
 25px; background-image: none; background-position: 0px 0px; background-rep=
eat: no-repeat;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62374">&nbsp;S=
ilicone brake fluid has a higher dry boiling point than DOT3 and DOT4 fluid=
, providing better, more rugged performance under pressure</li><li style=3D=
"margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 25px; background-image: none; background=
-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: no-repeat;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_1=
6_0_1_1433910730089_62372">&nbsp;Silicone is a full synthetic fluid with su=
perior lubrication properties for the pistons in the braking system (reduce=
s wear on the seals and pistons)</li></ul><div style=3D"margin: 0px; paddin=
g: 0px; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, Helveti=
ca, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.1599998474121px; line=
-height: 18px;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62364">&nbsp;</=
div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unic=
ode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51)=
; font-size: 12.1599998474121px; line-height: 18px;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3=
_16_0_1_1433910730089_62365">As great as all this sounds, there are a few d=
rawbacks as well:</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family=
: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; col=
or: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.1599998474121px; line-height: 18px;" cla=
ss=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62366">&nbsp;</div><ul style=3D"ma=
rgin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 18px; padding-left: 0px; font-family: 'Lucida=
 Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; list-style-t=
ype: none; line-height: 18px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.1599998=
474121px;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62363"><li style=3D"=
margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 25px; background-image: none; background-=
position: 0px 0px; background-repeat: no-repeat;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16=
_0_1_1433910730089_62367">Silicone brake fluid does not mix with water, so =
any water that enters the system will travel to the lowest point (low point=
 in caliper ore line)</li><li style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 25=
px; background-image: none; background-position: 0px 0px; background-repeat=
: no-repeat;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62368">It will no=
t mix with glycol based DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1 fluids (can create a gel, dam=
aging braking system if mixed)</li><li style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0=
px 0px 25px; background-image: none; background-position: 0px 0px; backgrou=
nd-repeat: no-repeat;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62362">S=
ilicone brake fluid cannot be used in ABS braking systems</li></ul><div sty=
le=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucid=
a Grande', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size:=
 12.1599998474121px; line-height: 18px;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433=
910730089_62369">&nbsp;</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-=
family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, Helvetica, sans-seri=
f; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.1599998474121px; line-height: 18px=
;" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62333" class=3D"">These drawbacks shoul=
d be taken into consideration before you switch, to make sure that a) your =
auto's braking system is up for the conversion, and b) the conversion to si=
licone brake fluid is done properly to ensure no damage is done to the vehi=
cle.</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 'Lucida San=
s Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 5=
1, 51); font-size: 12.1599998474121px; line-height: 18px;" class=3D"" id=3D=
"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62361">&nbsp;</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; p=
adding: 0px; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, He=
lvetica, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.1599998474121px;=
 line-height: 18px;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62357">The=
 best time to convert to silicone brake fluid is when you are replacing the=
 major brake system components, especially the master cylinder and calipers=
. &nbsp;Installing our Super Brake Kit is a great example. With the Super B=
rake Kit, you will replace all four calipers, rubber hoses, and the master =
cylinder, removing all brake fluid from the system and allowing for an easy=
 conversion.</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 'Lu=
cida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: r=
gb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.1599998474121px; line-height: 18px;" class=3D=
"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62370">&nbsp;</div><div style=3D"margin=
: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', A=
rial, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.15999984=
74121px; line-height: 18px;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62=
371">When pouring silicone brake fluid, do so slowly. &nbsp;DOT5 fluid has =
the ability to become aerated easily, which means that when handled quickly=
 it can develop small bubbles. &nbsp;Pouring slowly to minimize splashing i=
s best. Similarly, it has been suggested that if you uncap a bottle of DOT5=
 the day before you plan to work on the vehicle, it will allow any trapped =
air bubbles to rise to the top and dissipate.</div><div style=3D"margin: 0p=
x; padding: 0px; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial=
, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.159999847412=
1px; line-height: 18px;" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62358"=
>&nbsp;</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family: 'Lucida =
Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; color: rgb(51=
, 51, 51); font-size: 12.1599998474121px; line-height: 18px;" class=3D"" id=
=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62359">When bleeding the brakes, use nice, e=
ven strokes to minimize the cavitation, which can create air bubbles. Alter=
natively, gravity bleeding is another way to reduce the amount of air bubbl=
es in the system.</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-family=
: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; col=
or: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.1599998474121px; line-height: 18px;" dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62360">&nbsp;</div><di=
v id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981" dir=3D"ltr"><span id=3D"yui_3_16_=
0_1_1433910730089_62795">Hope this helps.</span></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0=
_1_1433910730089_61981" dir=3D"ltr"><span><br></span></div><div id=3D"yui_3=
_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981" dir=3D"ltr"><span id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_143391073=
0089_62796">JB</span></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981" dir=
=3D"ltr"><span id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62169">Long live team 6pack=
!</span></div>  <br><div class=3D"qtdSeparateBR"><br><br></div><div class=
=3D"yahoo_quoted" style=3D"display: block;"> <div style=3D"font-family: Hel=
veticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; fo=
nt-size: 16px;"> <div style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, =
Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> <div dir=3D=
"ltr"> <font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"> On Wednesday, June 10, 2015 9:25 AM=
, Jim Jones via 6pack &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br> </font> </div=
>  <br><br> <div class=3D"y_msg_container"><div id=3D"yiv5169001218"><div><=
div style=3D"color:#000;background-color:#fff;font-family:HelveticaNeue, He=
lvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">=
<div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23991"><span id=3D"yiv51=
69001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24298">James:</span></div><div id=3D"yiv=
5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23990"><span><br clear=3D"none"></span=
></div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982=
">These are not particularly rare cars (yet) so it's hard to make a case fo=
r the kind of repair this British car "artiste" is pushing. Objectively spe=
aking, this guy is so stubbornly set in his ways that I would walk away fro=
m him - no run!<span><br clear=3D"none"></span></div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D=
"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982"><br clear=3D"none"></div><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982"><span i=
d=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23981">I had a moment of truth=
 like that with my car. It was there in plain sight when I drove 700 miles =
to buy it - fiberglass patch on the panel beneath the battery. It was not e=
xactly pristine correct but it was solid. I had to make a decision then, bu=
t I did buy it. After all the other work I did on the car it was NOT an ite=
m that ever caused me concern. Frankly, if I was faced with doing that same=
 repair I probably would have done the same thing.</span></div><div dir=3D"=
ltr" id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982"><span><br clear=
=3D"none"></span></div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_143=
3943627347_23982">What I'm saying here is that if you enjoy your car and ar=
e otherwise happy with it, save yourself some money and have it fixed in wh=
atever way that makes sense. Like paint and modifications, repairs can be r=
e-done by future owners.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_=
0_1_1433943627347_23982"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yi=
v5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982">PS - Silicone fluid is just fa=
ntastic!</div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_143394362734=
7_23982">&nbsp;<br clear=3D"none"></div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_=
1_1433943627347_23938"><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_2=
3937">Jim Jones
<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"></div></div><br clear=3D"none">  <div=
 id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24278" style=3D"font-family:=
HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;=
font-size:16px;"> <div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24277"=
 style=3D"font-family:HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Luci=
da Grande, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"> <div class=3D"yiv5169001218yqt77345=
20482" id=3D"yiv5169001218yqt80698"><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yiv5169001218yui=
_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24276"> <hr size=3D"1">  <font id=3D"yiv5169001218y=
ui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24289" size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"> <b><span style=
=3D"font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> James_ via 6pack &lt;[email-masked]=
am.net&gt;<br clear=3D"none"> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold;">To:</spa=
n></b> "[email-masked]" &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br clear=3D"non=
e"> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold;">Sent:</span></b> Tuesday, June 9, =
2015 3:42 PM<br clear=3D"none"> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold;">Subjec=
t:</span></b> [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...<br clea=
r=3D"none"> </font> </div> <div class=3D"yiv5169001218y_msg_container" id=
=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24282"><br clear=3D"none"><div =
id=3D"yiv5169001218">

<style>#yiv5169001218 #yiv5169001218 --
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<div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24281"><div dir=3D"ltr" =
id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24280"><div id=3D"yiv51690012=
18yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24286">Hi all=E2=80=A6</div><div id=3D"yiv5169=
001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24285"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div id=3D=
"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24284">First=E2=80=A6.<span id=3D"=
yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24283" style=3D"font-size:12pt;">I =
am so depressed - I may sell the TR6 and walk away=E2=80=A6.seriously=E2=80=
=A6even after 22 years of my entire adult life.</span></div><div id=3D"yiv5=
169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24279"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div id=
=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24491">I just met and got a quo=
te from a guy that generally works on Austin Healey's=E2=80=A6and I gather =
he does very high end work=E2=80=A6.and accustom to people with deep pocket=
s.</div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24516">So that w=
as probably my mistake, but still is probably the best approach to have wor=
k done 100% thorough and correct.</div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1=
_1433943627347_24451"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_=
3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24450">First: I was told floor pans require the car =
body to be off the frame to replace.</div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_=
0_1_1433943627347_24484">First overwhelming thought=E2=80=A6body of the car=
? ugh.</div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24490"><br c=
lear=3D"none"></div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_2448=
5">Second: I have a few bad spots of rust that need panels fabricated and w=
elded. The worse is under the master cylinder and rust has</div><div id=3D"=
yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24448">eaten through the inner and =
outer wheel arch. It affects the pedal box too.</div><div>(I can send a pic=
ture if anyone is interested)</div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_143=
3943627347_24483"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>So the guy was really wanti=
ng the body removed, sand blasted, panels repaired and powder coated.</div>=
<div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24486">Sounds awesome. B=
ut it all gets down to time and money. a LOT of money and the rest of the y=
ear.</div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24487">Roughly=
, looking at $10-20K. for a TR6. yikes. Not sure I love the car that much. =
I know repairing old cars will ALWAYS cost more than a car is worth.</div><=
div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24489">I know that. Don't=
 lecture about that. But...<span id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627=
347_24488" style=3D"font-size:12pt;">my rust is not a 'rust bucket' by any =
means. And for $20K I can&nbsp;</span><span style=3D"font-size:12pt;">find =
a car</span><span style=3D"font-size:12pt;">&nbsp;that&nbsp;</span><span st=
yle=3D"font-size:12pt;">comes close to showroom condition!!!</span></div><d=
iv><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>I guess I am so depressed / disappointed /=
 overwhelmed / sad / hmmmm=E2=80=A6.what else=E2=80=A6</div><div><br clear=
=3D"none"></div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24452">=
=E2=80=A6I am at a loss as to what to do. One option: Say screw it and live=
 with the rotten areas, put the car back to gather and drive it.</div><div =
id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24482"><span style=3D"font-si=
ze:12pt;">or:</span></div><div>Sell the dang thing and walk away. Maybe I f=
inally reached that "mercy=E2=80=A6mercy=E2=80=A6no more=E2=80=A6make it st=
op" stage.</div><div>- I doubt I could bring myself to buy a TR6 again=E2=
=80=A6.I mean, what's the point. Mine isn't THAT awful and &nbsp;<span styl=
e=3D"font-size:12pt;">I know the history of THIS car.</span></div><div id=
=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24455"><span style=3D"font-size=
:12pt;"><br clear=3D"none"></span></div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_=
1_1433943627347_24454"><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_2=
4453">Or:</div><div>another option=E2=80=A6.(my original desire/thought) is=
 to have the areas repaired and new floor boards installed by someone that =
does a really good welding job&nbsp;</div><div>but not nearly as intense of=
 a procedure&nbsp;<font size=3D"3">or expensive. I know</font>=E2=80=A6<fon=
t size=3D"3">you get what you pay for.&nbsp;</font></div></div><div><font s=
ize=3D"3"><br clear=3D"none"></font></div><div>This winter: I removed every=
thing from the engine to detail it out and everything is ready to go back i=
n once the rust was fixed and engine bay painted.</div><div>At this point, =
I may as well sell off all the PARTS - they'd be worth more they the car as=
 a whole at this point. And everything is removed!</div><div>(only half kid=
ding=E2=80=A6.)</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div><br clear=3D"none">=
</div><div>Oh, one more thing=E2=80=A6.</div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_=
16_0_1_1433943627347_24481">this guy is DEAD set against my thought of swit=
ching to Silicone brake fluid. I mean, DEAD set against and talking about w=
arranty being voided if I use it.</div><div>I looked at him and said: "What=
 Warranty is that?" "It isn't like there is a dealership I can go to" "I bu=
y parts, I put them on." I am the warranty department!</div><div>He mention=
ed the warranty of the parts I buy from Moss, etc. hmmmm=E2=80=A6.They void=
 it if the silicone falls the parts.</div><div>Really? Moss SELLS Silicone =
brake fluid.&nbsp;</div><div>I suspect all this is because his DAD is again=
st Silicone and he just follows what his dad hates.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"y=
iv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24480"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div=
 id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24457">I was recently curiou=
s why&nbsp;<font id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24456" size=
=3D"3">auto stores don't seem to carry DOT 5 Silicone as much as the other =
types. So now with this restoration guy's comments</font>=E2=80=A6<font id=
=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24458" size=3D"3">is Silicone T=
HAT bad/poorly rated?</font></div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433=
943627347_24459"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_=
0_1_1433943627347_24477">Well, any advice or words of comfort?</div><div id=
=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24478"><br clear=3D"none"></div=
><div id=3D"yiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24479">James</div><div>=
<br clear=3D"none"></div><div>1976 TR6&nbsp;</div><div><br clear=3D"none"><=
/div> =09=09 =09   =09=09  </div></div>
</div><br clear=3D"none">_______________________________________________<br=
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

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---

From: James_ via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 19:59:16 +0000

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Thanks everyone for the great words and advice.
I want a good job and get her on the road so i can drive it. but with all t=
hese rusted out sections=2C i need to repair them first.
I am totally tempted to go out=2C buy a TIG welder (a bit expensive) and LE=
ARN to weld!Seriously. I haven't seen any welding classes over the summer=
=2C but there will be many in the Fall. But I can teach myself and find fri=
ends of friendsinstruct me.I would not do the floor pans but at least the f=
lat sections needing repair. One area is on the firewall near the commissio=
n plates . probably a 1"x5" section.
So most sections I need are flat sections. Except for the crazy corner sect=
ion directly under the fuse box=2C master cylinder area.Which leads me to t=
his: If I can locate a perfect salvaged inner fender and wheel arch that I =
can extract this crazy multi-sidedsection. I simply cut out the bad and hav=
e someone weld in the good replacement. saves fabricating from scratch. or =
do it myself.=20
Anyone have a good source to find donor panels: wheel arch/inner fender sec=
tions?Ideally here in Oregon=2C but willing to pay for shipping. Be even ni=
cer if someone has the small section I need and not have to ruin a good par=
t that is intact.
Thanks.
James
 		 	   		  =

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<body class=3D'hmmessage'><div dir=3D'ltr'>Thanks everyone for the great wo=
rds and advice.<div><style><!--=0A=
.ExternalClass #ecxyiv5169001218 body.ecxyiv5169001218hmmessage {=0A=
font-size:12pt=3B=0A=
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--></style><div><br></div><div><div>I want a good job and get her on the ro=
ad so i can drive it. but with all these rusted out sections=2C i need to r=
epair them first.</div></div><div><br></div><div>I am totally tempted to go=
 out=2C buy a TIG welder (a bit expensive) and LEARN to weld!</div><div>Ser=
iously. I haven't seen any welding classes over the summer=2C but there wil=
l be many in the Fall. But I can teach myself and find friends of friends</=
div><div>instruct me.</div><div>I would not do the floor pans but at least =
the flat sections needing repair. One area is on the firewall&nbsp=3B</div>=
<div>near the commission plates .&nbsp=3B<span style=3D"font-size: 12pt=3B"=
>probably a 1"x5" section.</span></div><div><br></div><div>So most sections=
 I need are flat sections. Except for the crazy corner section directly und=
er the fuse box=2C master cylinder area.</div><div>Which leads me to this: =
If I can locate a perfect salvaged inner fender and wheel arch that I can e=
xtract this crazy multi-sided</div><div>section. I simply cut out the bad a=
nd have someone weld in the good replacement. saves fabricating from scratc=
h. or do it myself.&nbsp=3B</div><div><br></div><div>Anyone have a good sou=
rce to find donor panels: wheel arch/inner fender sections?</div><div>Ideal=
ly here in Oregon=2C but willing to pay for shipping. Be even nicer if some=
one has the small section I need and not have to ruin a good part that is i=
ntact.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks.</div><div><br></div><div>James</div=
><div><br></div></div> 		 	   		  </div></body>
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[email-masked]

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From: dave n via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 16:45:48 -0500

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sorry to be the overly precise one here.  the word is HYGROSCOPIC, not =
hydroscopic.  hydroscopic refers to a hydroscope.

yes, its wrong on their web site.  we should all call them and tell them =
of their mistake!  their phone number is 800-442-0335.  they are closed =
now, so first thing in the morning . . .

when pouring, use a large screwdriver or anything flat and long to =
prevent air bubbles.

From: J B via 6pack=20
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 12:14 PM
To: Jim Jones ; James_ ; [email-masked]=20
Subject: Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...

Great question about the floors that I am also contemplating. I like =
seeing all the responses to the questions.=20

I did not know the answer but I found a good answer online that matched =
other responses from (I have no link/business to them) : =
www.muskegonbrake.com

Converting to silicone brake fluid has pros and cons, all of which =
should be considered before making the transition.. To start with, there =
are a few very good reasons to convert to DOT5 silicone brake fluid:

  a.. Silicone fluid is non-hydroscopic (it doesn=E2=80=99t attract or =
absorb water)=20
  b.. It will not ruin paint (glycol fluid will remove paint)=20
  c.. Silicone brake fluid has a higher dry boiling point than DOT3 and =
DOT4 fluid, providing better, more rugged performance under pressure=20
  d.. Silicone is a full synthetic fluid with superior lubrication =
properties for the pistons in the braking system (reduces wear on the =
seals and pistons)

As great as all this sounds, there are a few drawbacks as well:

  a.. Silicone brake fluid does not mix with water, so any water that =
enters the system will travel to the lowest point (low point in caliper =
ore line)=20
  b.. It will not mix with glycol based DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1 fluids =
(can create a gel, damaging braking system if mixed)=20
  c.. Silicone brake fluid cannot be used in ABS braking systems

These drawbacks should be taken into consideration before you switch, to =
make sure that a) your auto's braking system is up for the conversion, =
and b) the conversion to silicone brake fluid is done properly to ensure =
no damage is done to the vehicle.

The best time to convert to silicone brake fluid is when you are =
replacing the major brake system components, especially the master =
cylinder and calipers.  Installing our Super Brake Kit is a great =
example. With the Super Brake Kit, you will replace all four calipers, =
rubber hoses, and the master cylinder, removing all brake fluid from the =
system and allowing for an easy conversion.

When pouring silicone brake fluid, do so slowly.  DOT5 fluid has the =
ability to become aerated easily, which means that when handled quickly =
it can develop small bubbles.  Pouring slowly to minimize splashing is =
best. Similarly, it has been suggested that if you uncap a bottle of =
DOT5 the day before you plan to work on the vehicle, it will allow any =
trapped air bubbles to rise to the top and dissipate.

When bleeding the brakes, use nice, even strokes to minimize the =
cavitation, which can create air bubbles. Alternatively, gravity =
bleeding is another way to reduce the amount of air bubbles in the =
system.

Hope this helps.

JB
Long live team 6pack!

On Wednesday, June 10, 2015 9:25 AM, Jim Jones via 6pack =
<[email-masked]> wrote:

James:

These are not particularly rare cars (yet) so it's hard to make a case =
for the kind of repair this British car "artiste" is pushing. =
Objectively speaking, this guy is so stubbornly set in his ways that I =
would walk away from him - no run!

I had a moment of truth like that with my car. It was there in plain =
sight when I drove 700 miles to buy it - fiberglass patch on the panel =
beneath the battery. It was not exactly pristine correct but it was =
solid. I had to make a decision then, but I did buy it. After all the =
other work I did on the car it was NOT an item that ever caused me =
concern. Frankly, if I was faced with doing that same repair I probably =
would have done the same thing.

What I'm saying here is that if you enjoy your car and are otherwise =
happy with it, save yourself some money and have it fixed in whatever =
way that makes sense. Like paint and modifications, repairs can be =
re-done by future owners.

PS - Silicone fluid is just fantastic!

=20
Jim Jones=20

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------

Hi all=E2=80=A6

First=E2=80=A6.I am so depressed - I may sell the TR6 and walk =
away=E2=80=A6.seriously=E2=80=A6even after 22 years of my entire adult =
life.

I just met and got a quote from a guy that generally works on Austin =
Healey's=E2=80=A6and I gather he does very high end work=E2=80=A6.and =
accustom to people with deep pockets.
So that was probably my mistake, but still is probably the best approach =
to have work done 100% thorough and correct.

First: I was told floor pans require the car body to be off the frame to =
replace.
First overwhelming thought=E2=80=A6body of the car? ugh.

Second: I have a few bad spots of rust that need panels fabricated and =
welded. The worse is under the master cylinder and rust has
eaten through the inner and outer wheel arch. It affects the pedal box =
too.
(I can send a picture if anyone is interested)

So the guy was really wanting the body removed, sand blasted, panels =
repaired and powder coated.
Sounds awesome. But it all gets down to time and money. a LOT of money =
and the rest of the year.
Roughly, looking at $10-20K. for a TR6. yikes. Not sure I love the car =
that much. I know repairing old cars will ALWAYS cost more than a car is =
worth.
I know that. Don't lecture about that. But...my rust is not a 'rust =
bucket' by any means. And for $20K I can find a car that comes close to =
showroom condition!!!

I guess I am so depressed / disappointed / overwhelmed / sad / =
hmmmm=E2=80=A6.what else=E2=80=A6

=E2=80=A6I am at a loss as to what to do. One option: Say screw it and =
live with the rotten areas, put the car back to gather and drive it.
or:
Sell the dang thing and walk away. Maybe I finally reached that =
"mercy=E2=80=A6mercy=E2=80=A6no more=E2=80=A6make it stop" stage.
- I doubt I could bring myself to buy a TR6 again=E2=80=A6.I mean, =
what's the point. Mine isn't THAT awful and  I know the history of THIS =
car.

Or:
another option=E2=80=A6.(my original desire/thought) is to have the =
areas repaired and new floor boards installed by someone that does a =
really good welding job=20
but not nearly as intense of a procedure or expensive. I =
know=E2=80=A6you get what you pay for.=20

This winter: I removed everything from the engine to detail it out and =
everything is ready to go back in once the rust was fixed and engine bay =
painted.
At this point, I may as well sell off all the PARTS - they'd be worth =
more they the car as a whole at this point. And everything is removed!
(only half kidding=E2=80=A6.)

Oh, one more thing=E2=80=A6.
this guy is DEAD set against my thought of switching to Silicone brake =
fluid. I mean, DEAD set against and talking about warranty being voided =
if I use it.
I looked at him and said: "What Warranty is that?" "It isn't like there =
is a dealership I can go to" "I buy parts, I put them on." I am the =
warranty department!
He mentioned the warranty of the parts I buy from Moss, etc. =
hmmmm=E2=80=A6.They void it if the silicone falls the parts.
Really? Moss SELLS Silicone brake fluid.=20
I suspect all this is because his DAD is against Silicone and he just =
follows what his dad hates.=20

I was recently curious why auto stores don't seem to carry DOT 5 =
Silicone as much as the other types. So now with this restoration guy's =
comments=E2=80=A6is Silicone THAT bad/poorly rated?

James

1976 TR6=20

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]

------=_NextPart_000_0050_01D0A39C.E7479C40
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>sorry to be the overly precise one here.&nbsp; the word is =
HYGROSCOPIC, not=20
hydroscopic.&nbsp; hydroscopic refers to a hydroscope.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>yes, its wrong on their web site.&nbsp; we should all call them and =
tell=20
them of their mistake!&nbsp; their phone number is 800-442-0335.&nbsp; =
they are=20
closed now, so first thing in the morning . . .</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>when pouring, use a large screwdriver or anything flat and long to =
prevent=20
air bubbles.</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">J B via 6pack</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 10, 2015 12:14 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked] =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Jim=20
Jones</A> ; <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">James_</A> ; <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair=20
quote...</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: helveticaneue, helvetica neue, =
helvetica, arial, lucida grande, sans-serif; COLOR: #000; =
BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981 dir=3Dltr><SPAN=20
id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61994>Great question about the floors =
that I am=20
also contemplating. I like seeing all the responses to the questions.=20
</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981 =
dir=3Dltr><SPAN><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981 dir=3Dltr><SPAN=20
id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62328>I did not know the answer but I =
found a good=20
answer online that matched other responses from (I have no link/business =
to=20
them) : </SPAN><SPAN id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62533=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 14px; FONT-FAMILY: arial, sans-serif; WHITE-SPACE: =
nowrap; COLOR: rgb(0,102,33); LINE-HEIGHT: 16px"><A=20
id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62531=20
href=3D"http://www.muskegonbrake.com/">www.muskegonbrake.c</A>om</SPAN></=
DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981 dir=3Dltr><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 14px; FONT-FAMILY: arial, sans-serif; WHITE-SPACE: =
nowrap; COLOR: rgb(0,102,33); LINE-HEIGHT: 16px"><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62378=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">Converting=20
to silicone brake fluid has pros and cons, all of which should be =
considered=20
before making the transition.. To start with, there are a few very good =
reasons=20
to convert to DOT5 silicone brake fluid:</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62377=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;</DIV>
<UL id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62373=20
style=3D"LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 18px; FONT-SIZE: 12px; =
FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', arial, helvetica, =
sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN-TOP: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px">
  <LI id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62376=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-IMAGE: none; BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; =
BACKGROUND-POSITION: 0px 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 25px; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">Silicone=20
  fluid is non-hydroscopic (it doesn=E2=80=99t attract or absorb water)=20
  <LI id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62375=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-IMAGE: none; BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; =
BACKGROUND-POSITION: 0px 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 25px; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">It=20
  will not ruin paint (glycol fluid will remove paint)=20
  <LI id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62374=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-IMAGE: none; BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; =
BACKGROUND-POSITION: 0px 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 25px; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">Silicone=20
  brake fluid has a higher dry boiling point than DOT3 and DOT4 fluid, =
providing=20
  better, more rugged performance under pressure=20
  <LI id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62372=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-IMAGE: none; BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; =
BACKGROUND-POSITION: 0px 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 25px; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">Silicone=20
  is a full synthetic fluid with superior lubrication properties for the =
pistons=20
  in the braking system (reduces wear on the seals and =
pistons)</LI></UL>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62364=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62365=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">As=20
great as all this sounds, there are a few drawbacks as well:</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62366=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;</DIV>
<UL id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62363=20
style=3D"LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 18px; FONT-SIZE: 12px; =
FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida Grande', arial, helvetica, =
sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN-TOP: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px">
  <LI id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62367=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-IMAGE: none; BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; =
BACKGROUND-POSITION: 0px 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 25px; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">Silicone=20
  brake fluid does not mix with water, so any water that enters the =
system will=20
  travel to the lowest point (low point in caliper ore line)=20
  <LI id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62368=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-IMAGE: none; BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; =
BACKGROUND-POSITION: 0px 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 25px; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">It=20
  will not mix with glycol based DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1 fluids (can =
create a gel,=20
  damaging braking system if mixed)=20
  <LI id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62362=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-IMAGE: none; BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; =
BACKGROUND-POSITION: 0px 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 25px; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">Silicone=20
  brake fluid cannot be used in ABS braking systems</LI></UL>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62369=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62333=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">These=20
drawbacks should be taken into consideration before you switch, to make =
sure=20
that a) your auto's braking system is up for the conversion, and b) the=20
conversion to silicone brake fluid is done properly to ensure no damage =
is done=20
to the vehicle.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62361=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62357=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">The=20
best time to convert to silicone brake fluid is when you are replacing =
the major=20
brake system components, especially the master cylinder and =
calipers.&nbsp;=20
Installing our Super Brake Kit is a great example. With the Super Brake =
Kit, you=20
will replace all four calipers, rubber hoses, and the master cylinder, =
removing=20
all brake fluid from the system and allowing for an easy =
conversion.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62370=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62371=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">When=20
pouring silicone brake fluid, do so slowly.&nbsp; DOT5 fluid has the =
ability to=20
become aerated easily, which means that when handled quickly it can =
develop=20
small bubbles.&nbsp; Pouring slowly to minimize splashing is best. =
Similarly, it=20
has been suggested that if you uncap a bottle of DOT5 the day before you =
plan to=20
work on the vehicle, it will allow any trapped air bubbles to rise to =
the top=20
and dissipate.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62358=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62359=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">When=20
bleeding the brakes, use nice, even strokes to minimize the cavitation, =
which=20
can create air bubbles. Alternatively, gravity bleeding is another way =
to reduce=20
the amount of air bubbles in the system.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62360=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Lucida =
Grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(51,51,51); =
PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; =
LINE-HEIGHT: 18px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"=20
dir=3Dltr>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981 dir=3Dltr><SPAN=20
id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62795>Hope this helps.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981 =
dir=3Dltr><SPAN><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981 dir=3Dltr><SPAN=20
id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62796>JB</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_61981 dir=3Dltr><SPAN=20
id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1433910730089_62169>Long live team 6pack!</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV class=3DqtdSeparateBR><BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dyahoo_quoted style=3D"DISPLAY: block">
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: helveticaneue, helvetica neue, =
helvetica, arial, lucida grande, sans-serif">
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: helveticaneue, helvetica neue, =
helvetica, arial, lucida grande, sans-serif">
<DIV dir=3Dltr><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>On Wednesday, June 10, 2015 =
9:25 AM, Jim=20
Jones via 6pack &lt;[email-masked]&gt; =
wrote:<BR></FONT></DIV><BR><BR>
<DIV class=3Dy_msg_container>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218>
<DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: helveticaneue, helvetica neue, =
helvetica, arial, lucida grande, sans-serif; COLOR: #000; =
BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23991><SPAN=20
id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24298>James:</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23990><SPAN><BR=20
clear=3Dnone></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982 dir=3Dltr>These =
are not=20
particularly rare cars (yet) so it's hard to make a case for the kind of =
repair=20
this British car "artiste" is pushing. Objectively speaking, this guy is =
so=20
stubbornly set in his ways that I would walk away from him - no =
run!<SPAN><BR=20
clear=3Dnone></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982 =
dir=3Dltr>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982 dir=3Dltr><SPAN=20
id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23981>I had a moment of =
truth like=20
that with my car. It was there in plain sight when I drove 700 miles to =
buy it -=20
fiberglass patch on the panel beneath the battery. It was not exactly =
pristine=20
correct but it was solid. I had to make a decision then, but I did buy =
it. After=20
all the other work I did on the car it was NOT an item that ever caused =
me=20
concern. Frankly, if I was faced with doing that same repair I probably =
would=20
have done the same thing.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982 =
dir=3Dltr><SPAN><BR=20
clear=3Dnone></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982 dir=3Dltr>What =
I'm saying=20
here is that if you enjoy your car and are otherwise happy with it, save =

yourself some money and have it fixed in whatever way that makes sense. =
Like=20
paint and modifications, repairs can be re-done by future owners.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982 =
dir=3Dltr>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982 dir=3Dltr>PS - =
Silicone=20
fluid is just fantastic!</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23982 dir=3Dltr><BR=20
clear=3Dnone>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23938>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_23937>Jim Jones <BR=20
clear=3Dnone><BR clear=3Dnone></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24278=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: helveticaneue, helvetica neue, =
helvetica, arial, lucida grande, sans-serif">
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24277=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: helveticaneue, helvetica neue, =
helvetica, arial, lucida grande, sans-serif">
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yqt80698 class=3Dyiv5169001218yqt7734520482>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24276 dir=3Dltr>
<HR SIZE=3D1>
<FONT id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24289 size=3D2=20
face=3DArial><B><SPAN style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B> =
James_ via 6pack=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<BR clear=3Dnone><B><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> "[email-masked]"=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <BR clear=3Dnone><B><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Tuesday, June 9, 2015 3:42 =
PM<BR=20
clear=3Dnone><B><SPAN style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> =
[6pack]=20
Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...<BR =
clear=3Dnone></FONT></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24282=20
class=3Dyiv5169001218y_msg_container>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218>
<STYLE>#yiv5169001218 #yiv5169001218 --
 .yiv5169001218hmmessage p
{
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<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24281>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24280 dir=3Dltr>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24286>Hi =
all=E2=80=A6</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24285>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV =
id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24284>First=E2=80=A6.<SPAN=20
id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24283 style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
12pt">I am so=20
depressed - I may sell the TR6 and walk =
away=E2=80=A6.seriously=E2=80=A6even after 22 years of=20
my entire adult life.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24279>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24491>I just met and =
got a quote=20
from a guy that generally works on Austin Healey's=E2=80=A6and I gather =
he does very=20
high end work=E2=80=A6.and accustom to people with deep pockets.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24516>So that was =
probably my=20
mistake, but still is probably the best approach to have work done 100% =
thorough=20
and correct.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24451>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24450>First: I was =
told floor=20
pans require the car body to be off the frame to replace.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24484>First =
overwhelming=20
thought=E2=80=A6body of the car? ugh.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24490>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24485>Second: I have a =
few bad=20
spots of rust that need panels fabricated and welded. The worse is under =
the=20
master cylinder and rust has</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24448>eaten through =
the inner=20
and outer wheel arch. It affects the pedal box too.</DIV>
<DIV>(I can send a picture if anyone is interested)</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24483>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>So the guy was really wanting the body removed, sand blasted, =
panels=20
repaired and powder coated.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24486>Sounds awesome. =
But it all=20
gets down to time and money. a LOT of money and the rest of the =
year.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24487>Roughly, looking =
at=20
$10-20K. for a TR6. yikes. Not sure I love the car that much. I know =
repairing=20
old cars will ALWAYS cost more than a car is worth.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24489>I know that. =
Don't lecture=20
about that. But...<SPAN =
id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24488=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">my rust is not a 'rust bucket' by any means. =
And for=20
$20K I can </SPAN><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">find a car</SPAN><SPAN =

style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> that </SPAN><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
12pt">comes close=20
to showroom condition!!!</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I guess I am so depressed / disappointed / overwhelmed / sad / =
hmmmm=E2=80=A6.what=20
else=E2=80=A6</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24452>=E2=80=A6I am at =
a loss as to what=20
to do. One option: Say screw it and live with the rotten areas, put the =
car back=20
to gather and drive it.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24482><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">or:</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV>Sell the dang thing and walk away. Maybe I finally reached that=20
"mercy=E2=80=A6mercy=E2=80=A6no more=E2=80=A6make it stop" stage.</DIV>
<DIV>- I doubt I could bring myself to buy a TR6 again=E2=80=A6.I mean, =
what's the=20
point. Mine isn't THAT awful and&nbsp; <SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">I =
know the=20
history of THIS car.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24455><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><BR clear=3Dnone></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24454>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24453>Or:</DIV>
<DIV>another option=E2=80=A6.(my original desire/thought) is to have the =
areas repaired=20
and new floor boards installed by someone that does a really good =
welding job=20
</DIV>
<DIV>but not nearly as intense of a procedure <FONT size=3D3>or =
expensive. I=20
know</FONT>=E2=80=A6<FONT size=3D3>you get what you pay for. =
</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3><BR clear=3Dnone></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>This winter: I removed everything from the engine to detail it out =
and=20
everything is ready to go back in once the rust was fixed and engine bay =

painted.</DIV>
<DIV>At this point, I may as well sell off all the PARTS - they'd be =
worth more=20
they the car as a whole at this point. And everything is removed!</DIV>
<DIV>(only half kidding=E2=80=A6.)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Oh, one more thing=E2=80=A6.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24481>this guy is DEAD =
set=20
against my thought of switching to Silicone brake fluid. I mean, DEAD =
set=20
against and talking about warranty being voided if I use it.</DIV>
<DIV>I looked at him and said: "What Warranty is that?" "It isn't like =
there is=20
a dealership I can go to" "I buy parts, I put them on." I am the =
warranty=20
department!</DIV>
<DIV>He mentioned the warranty of the parts I buy from Moss, etc. =
hmmmm=E2=80=A6.They=20
void it if the silicone falls the parts.</DIV>
<DIV>Really? Moss SELLS Silicone brake fluid. </DIV>
<DIV>I suspect all this is because his DAD is against Silicone and he =
just=20
follows what his dad hates. </DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24480>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24457>I was recently =
curious why=20
<FONT id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24456 size=3D3>auto =
stores don't=20
seem to carry DOT 5 Silicone as much as the other types. So now with =
this=20
restoration guy's comments</FONT>=E2=80=A6<FONT=20
id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24458 size=3D3>is Silicone =
THAT=20
bad/poorly rated?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24459>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24477>Well, any advice =
or words=20
of comfort?</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24478>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv5169001218yui_3_16_0_1_1433943627347_24479>James</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1976 TR6 </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV><BR=20
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[email-masked]

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From: Larry Young via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 14:25:16 -0500

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James,
I did not do the rust repair on my TR250, but since I'm also a Model T 
guy, I have done my share.  I agree with everyone that suggested 
patching.  A good butt weld can't be distinguished from original metal 
and is just as strong.  When I had the rockers repaired, I bought the 
replacement piece.  Since it was just rusted at the front, the body guy 
suggested we just cut off the front part and weld it in, because he 
could not duplicate the original spot welds. I'd suggest you get a 110V 
MIG welder (Lincoln or Miller).  They are cheaper and easier to use than 
a TIG, but you will have to do some grinding. If money is an issue, I 
have also used good old fashioned gas hammer welding.  Here is an 
example of stuff I've done with my MIG - www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bodies. 
Oklahoma is 49th in education, but our Vo-Tech schools are excellent. 
I'd recommend that as a good way to learn.

I should also mention that I did not set out to make my car a show car 
and do not drive it like one.  I did want to keep it original, because 
back in the day, I didn't have the money to modify it.  As far as costs 
go,  you can figure about 1K for a careful media blast and probably 1K 
in paint and materials (base coat/clear coat).  Its worth it, because 
modern catalyzed primer and paints are much better than original. I know 
the guy spent at least a couple of full weeks working on it.  On top of 
those costs, I also stripped my frame and had it blasted and epoxy 
primed.  I know you don't want to do all of this now, but if you have to 
take the body off, then .......
Larry Young

On 6/10/2015 2:59 PM, James_ via 6pack wrote:
> I want a good job and get her on the road so i can drive it. but with 
> all these rusted out sections, i need to repair them first.
> not
> I am totally tempted to go out, buy a TIG welder (a bit expensive) and 
> LEARN to weld!
> Seriously. I haven't seen any welding classes over the summer, but 
> there will be many in the Fall. But I can teach myself and find 
> friends of friends
> instruct me.
> I would not do the floor pans but at least the flat sections needing 
> repair. One area is on the firewall
> near the commission plates . probably a 1"x5" section.
>
> So most sections I need are flat sections. Except for the crazy corner 
> section directly under the fuse box, master cylinder area.
> Which leads me to this: If I can locate a perfect salvaged inner 
> fender and wheel arch that I can extract this crazy multi-sided
> section. I simply cut out the bad and have someone weld in the good 
> replacement. saves fabricating from scratch. or do it myself.
>
> Anyone have a good source to find donor panels: wheel arch/inner 
> fender sections?
> Ideally here in Oregon, but willing to pay for shipping. Be even nicer 
> if someone has the small section I need and not have to ruin a good 
> part that is intact.
>
> Thanks.
>
> James
>
>
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]
>

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    James,<br>
    I did not do the rust repair on my TR250, but since I'm also a Model
    T guy, I have done my share.  I agree with everyone that suggested
    patching.  A good butt weld can't be distinguished from original
    metal and is just as strong.  When I had the rockers repaired, I
    bought the replacement piece.  Since it was just rusted at the
    front, the body guy suggested we just cut off the front part and
    weld it in, because he could not duplicate the original spot welds. 
    I'd suggest you get a 110V MIG welder (Lincoln or Miller).  They are
    cheaper and easier to use than a TIG, but you will have to do some
    grinding. If money is an issue, I have also used good old fashioned
    gas hammer welding.  Here is an example of stuff I've done with my
    MIG - <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bodies">www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bodies</a>. Oklahoma is 49th in education,
    but our Vo-Tech schools are excellent. I'd recommend that as a good
    way to learn. <br>
    <br>
    I should also mention that I did not set out to make my car a show
    car and do not drive it like one.  I did want to keep it original,
    because back in the day, I didn't have the money to modify it.  As
    far as costs go,  you can figure about 1K for a careful media blast
    and probably 1K in paint and materials (base coat/clear coat).  Its
    worth it, because modern catalyzed primer and paints are much better
    than original. I know the guy spent at least a couple of full weeks
    working on it.  On top of those costs, I also stripped my frame and
    had it blasted and epoxy primed.  I know you don't want to do all of
    this now, but if you have to take the body off, then .......<br>
    Larry Young<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/10/2015 2:59 PM, James_ via 6pack
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
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      <div dir="ltr">Thanks everyone for the great words and advice.
        <div>
          <style><!--
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          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>
            <div>I want a good job and get her on the road so i can
              drive it. but with all these rusted out sections, i need
              to repair them first.</div>
          </div>
          <div>not <br>
          </div>
          <div>I am totally tempted to go out, buy a TIG welder (a bit
            expensive) and LEARN to weld!</div>
          <div>Seriously. I haven't seen any welding classes over the
            summer, but there will be many in the Fall. But I can teach
            myself and find friends of friends</div>
          <div>instruct me.</div>
          <div>I would not do the floor pans but at least the flat
            sections needing repair. One area is on the firewall </div>
          <div>near the commission plates . <span style="font-size:
              12pt;">probably a 1"x5" section.</span></div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>So most sections I need are flat sections. Except for the
            crazy corner section directly under the fuse box, master
            cylinder area.</div>
          <div>Which leads me to this: If I can locate a perfect
            salvaged inner fender and wheel arch that I can extract this
            crazy multi-sided</div>
          <div>section. I simply cut out the bad and have someone weld
            in the good replacement. saves fabricating from scratch. or
            do it myself. </div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>Anyone have a good source to find donor panels: wheel
            arch/inner fender sections?</div>
          <div>Ideally here in Oregon, but willing to pay for shipping.
            Be even nicer if someone has the small section I need and
            not have to ruin a good part that is intact.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>Thanks.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>James</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
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[email-masked]

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From: rweber via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 20:06:58 +0000 (UTC)

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James,=20
I sense the potential for a serious case of shipwrights disease setting in.=
 It happened to me on my 71 TR6 rustoration a few years ago. DPO had welded=
 a piece of 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 4" angle iron the full length of the inside sil=
l from the firewall to the rear panel with full length welds. Ever being th=
e curious engineer, I had to see what was underneath that and proceeded to =
grind welds to extract the angle iron. I'm glad I did since both four-bolt =
tub mounts to the frame=C2=A0 were completely rusted through meaning the le=
ft side of the tub was not bolted down. That lead to a full soda blasting o=
f the body to see what other surprises there were which then lead to new si=
lls and floor pans installed after the door opening was well braced along w=
ith a number of other sheet metal parts. It also uncovered some frame damag=
e that I repaired and further descended into a full frame off. And all I wa=
nted originally was a daily driver!=C2=A0=20

In all, as painful as it was, I'm glad I did it the way I did but it took 3=
 years. That's the wonder of owning these old cars and keeping them on the =
road. Every nod and thumbs-up I get when driving my 6 confirms I made the r=
ight decision.=C2=A0=20
=20
I recently picked up a 59 TR3 barn find and made sure I more thoroughly ins=
pected the sheet metal but am fully expecting some surprises as I dig into =
it.=20

In the end, we need to make the decisions on what needs to be done to make =
the car safe to drive versus what would be nice to do. It sounds like from =
what you're saying, the rest of the car is sound and a couple of patches wi=
ll get you on the road. If you can find the patches, I'm sure a traveling w=
elder can tack them in for a reasonable charge. Another alternative is to c=
ontact the local vo-tech and see they need a donor project for the students=
. You never know if the instructor will take a liking to a LBC project. Las=
tly, another option is to go to a regular body shop and negotiate a flat pr=
ice as a filler job to be completed within x weeks/months (be sure to set a=
 complete by date). They may give it to an apprentice and cut you a good de=
al if they use it as a filler between jobs.=20

Good luck in deciding which way to go. I hope my 2 cents is helpful.=20

Ron Weber71TR659TR3A in kit form

From: Larry Young via 6pack <[email-masked]>
 To: [email-masked]=20
 Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 3:25 PM
 Subject: Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...
  =20
 James,
 I did not do the rust repair on my TR250, but since I'm also a Model T guy=
, I have done my share.=C2=A0 I agree with everyone that suggested patching=
.=C2=A0 A good butt weld can't be distinguished from original metal and is =
just as strong.=C2=A0 When I had the rockers repaired, I bought the replace=
ment piece.=C2=A0 Since it was just rusted at the front, the body guy sugge=
sted we just cut off the front part and weld it in, because he could not du=
plicate the original spot welds.=C2=A0 I'd suggest you get a 110V MIG welde=
r (Lincoln or Miller).=C2=A0 They are cheaper and easier to use than a TIG,=
 but you will have to do some grinding. If money is an issue, I have also u=
sed good old fashioned gas hammer welding.=C2=A0 Here is an example of stuf=
f I've done with my MIG - www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bodies. Oklahoma is 49th in=
 education, but our Vo-Tech schools are excellent. I'd recommend that as a =
good way to learn.=20
=20
 I should also mention that I did not set out to make my car a show car and=
 do not drive it like one.=C2=A0 I did want to keep it original, because ba=
ck in the day, I didn't have the money to modify it.=C2=A0 As far as costs =
go,=C2=A0 you can figure about 1K for a careful media blast and probably 1K=
 in paint and materials (base coat/clear coat).=C2=A0 Its worth it, because=
 modern catalyzed primer and paints are much better than original. I know t=
he guy spent at least a couple of full weeks working on it.=C2=A0 On top of=
 those costs, I also stripped my frame and had it blasted and epoxy primed.=
=C2=A0 I know you don't want to do all of this now, but if you have to take=
 the body off, then .......
 Larry Young
=20
 On 6/10/2015 2:59 PM, James_ via 6pack wrote:
 =20
 #yiv5495278081 #yiv5495278081 --.yiv5495278081hmmessage P{margin:0px;paddi=
ng:0px;}#yiv5495278081 body.yiv5495278081hmmessage{font-size:12pt;font-fami=
ly:Calibri;}#yiv5495278081  Thanks everyone for the great words and advice.=
  #yiv5495278081 #yiv5495278081 --.yiv5495278081ExternalClass #yiv549527808=
1ecxyiv5169001218 body.yiv5495278081ecxyiv5169001218hmmessage {font-size:12=
pt;font-family:Calibri;}#yiv5495278081 =20
   I want a good job and get her on the road so i can drive it. but with al=
l these rusted out sections, i need to repair them first.  not=20

  I am totally tempted to go out, buy a TIG welder (a bit expensive) and LE=
ARN to weld! Seriously. I haven't seen any welding classes over the summer,=
 but there will be many in the Fall. But I can teach myself and find friend=
s of friends instruct me. I would not do the floor pans but at least the fl=
at sections needing repair. One area is on the firewall=C2=A0 near the comm=
ission plates .=C2=A0probably a 1"x5" section.=20
  So most sections I need are flat sections. Except for the crazy corner se=
ction directly under the fuse box, master cylinder area. Which leads me to =
this: If I can locate a perfect salvaged inner fender and wheel arch that I=
 can extract this crazy multi-sided section. I simply cut out the bad and h=
ave someone weld in the good replacement. saves fabricating from scratch. o=
r do it myself.=C2=A0=20
  Anyone have a good source to find donor panels: wheel arch/inner fender s=
ections? Ideally here in Oregon, but willing to pay for shipping. Be even n=
icer if someone has the small section I need and not have to ruin a good pa=
rt that is intact.=20
  Thanks.=20
  James=20
   =20
 =20
 _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www=
.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.96Archive: http://www.te=
am.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/[email-masked]://=
autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6packUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]=20
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=20
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<html><body><div style=3D"color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:He=
lveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:16px"><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_8827">James=
, <br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9430" dir=3D"ltr">I sense=
 the potential for a serious case of shipwrights disease setting in. It hap=
pened to me on my 71 TR6 rustoration a few years ago. DPO had welded a piec=
e of 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 4" angle iron the full length of the inside sill from =
the firewall to the rear panel with full length welds. Ever being the curio=
us engineer, I had to see what was underneath that and proceeded to grind w=
elds to extract the angle iron. I'm glad I did since both four-bolt tub mou=
nts to the frame&nbsp; were completely rusted through meaning the left side=
 of the tub was not bolted down. That lead to a full soda blasting of the b=
ody to see what other surprises there were which then lead to new sills and=
 floor pans installed after the door opening was well braced along with a n=
umber of other sheet metal parts. It also uncovered some frame damage that =
I repaired and further descended into a full frame off. And all I wanted or=
iginally was a daily driver!&nbsp; <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><di=
v id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9285" dir=3D"ltr">In all, as painful as =
it was, I'm glad I did it the way I did but it took 3 years. That's the won=
der of owning these old cars and keeping them on the road. Every nod and th=
umbs-up I get when driving my 6 confirms I made the right decision.&nbsp; <=
br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9314" dir=3D"ltr"> <br></div=
><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9286">I recently picked =
up a 59 TR3 barn find and made sure I more thoroughly=20
inspected the sheet metal but am fully expecting some surprises as I dig in=
to it. <br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9400" dir=3D"ltr"><b=
r></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9555" dir=3D"ltr">In the end,=
 we need to make the decisions on what needs to be done to make the car saf=
e to drive versus what would be nice to do. It sounds like from what you're=
 saying, the rest of the car is sound and a couple of patches will get you =
on the road. If you can find the patches, I'm sure a traveling welder can t=
ack them in for a reasonable charge. Another alternative is to contact the =
local vo-tech and see they need a donor project for the students. You never=
 know if the instructor will take a liking to a LBC project. Lastly, anothe=
r option is to go to a regular body shop and negotiate a flat price as a fi=
ller job to be completed within x weeks/months (be sure to set a complete b=
y date). They may give it to an apprentice and cut you a good deal if they =
use it as a filler between jobs. <br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_14340515=
97682_9778" dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_984=
2" dir=3D"ltr">Good luck in deciding which way to go. I hope my 2 cents is =
helpful. <br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9844" dir=3D"ltr">=
<br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9846" dir=3D"ltr">Ron Weber=
</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9848" dir=3D"ltr">71TR6</div><d=
iv id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9850" dir=3D"ltr">59TR3A in kit form<br=
></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9401" dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><d=
iv id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9372"><br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1=
_1434051597682_8821" style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, H=
elvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><div id=3D"yu=
i_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_8820" style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helveti=
ca Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><di=
v id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_8819" dir=3D"ltr"><font id=3D"yui_3_16_0=
_1_1434051597682_9556" face=3D"Arial" size=3D"2"><b id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434=
051597682_9559"><span id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9558" style=3D"font-=
weight:bold;">From:</span></b> Larry Young via 6pack &lt;[email-masked]=
et&gt;<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">To:</span></b> 6pack@autox=
.team.net <br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> Thurs=
day, June 11, 2015 3:25 PM<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Subjec=
t:</span></b> Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...<br>=
 </font> </div> <div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597682_9563" class=3D"y_msg_=
container"><br><div id=3D"yiv5495278081"><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1434051597=
682_9565">
    James,<br clear=3D"none">
    I did not do the rust repair on my TR250, but since I'm also a Model
    T guy, I have done my share.&nbsp; I agree with everyone that suggested
    patching.&nbsp; A good butt weld can't be distinguished from original
    metal and is just as strong.&nbsp; When I had the rockers repaired, I
    bought the replacement piece.&nbsp; Since it was just rusted at the
    front, the body guy suggested we just cut off the front part and
    weld it in, because he could not duplicate the original spot welds.&nbs=
p;
    I'd suggest you get a 110V MIG welder (Lincoln or Miller).&nbsp; They a=
re
    cheaper and easier to use than a TIG, but you will have to do some
    grinding. If money is an issue, I have also used good old fashioned
    gas hammer welding.&nbsp; Here is an example of stuff I've done with my
    MIG - <a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" class=3D"yiv5495278081moz-txt-=
link-abbreviated" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bo=
dies">www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bodies</a>. Oklahoma is 49th in education,
    but our Vo-Tech schools are excellent. I'd recommend that as a good
    way to learn. <br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    I should also mention that I did not set out to make my car a show
    car and do not drive it like one.&nbsp; I did want to keep it original,
    because back in the day, I didn't have the money to modify it.&nbsp; As
    far as costs go,&nbsp; you can figure about 1K for a careful media blas=
t
    and probably 1K in paint and materials (base coat/clear coat).&nbsp; It=
s
    worth it, because modern catalyzed primer and paints are much better
    than original. I know the guy spent at least a couple of full weeks
    working on it.&nbsp; On top of those costs, I also stripped my frame an=
d
    had it blasted and epoxy primed.&nbsp; I know you don't want to do all =
of
    this now, but if you have to take the body off, then .......<br clear=
=3D"none">
    Larry Young<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    <div class=3D"yiv5495278081moz-cite-prefix">On 6/10/2015 2:59 PM, James=
_ via 6pack
      wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
      <style>#yiv5495278081 #yiv5495278081 --
.yiv5495278081hmmessage P
{
margin:0px;padding:0px;}
#yiv5495278081 body.yiv5495278081hmmessage
{
font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}
#yiv5495278081 </style>
      <div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks everyone for the great words and advice.
        <div>
          <style>#yiv5495278081 #yiv5495278081 --
.yiv5495278081ExternalClass #yiv5495278081ecxyiv5169001218 body.yiv54952780=
81ecxyiv5169001218hmmessage {
font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}
#yiv5495278081 </style>
          <div><br clear=3D"none">
          </div>
          <div>
            <div>I want a good job and get her on the road so i can
              drive it. but with all these rusted out sections, i need
              to repair them first.</div>
          </div>
          <div>not <div class=3D"qtdSeparateBR"><br><br></div><div class=3D=
"yiv5495278081yqt7820968326" id=3D"yiv5495278081yqtfd02219"><br clear=3D"no=
ne">
          </div></div><div class=3D"yiv5495278081yqt7820968326" id=3D"yiv54=
95278081yqtfd42358">
          <div>I am totally tempted to go out, buy a TIG welder (a bit
            expensive) and LEARN to weld!</div>
          <div>Seriously. I haven't seen any welding classes over the
            summer, but there will be many in the Fall. But I can teach
            myself and find friends of friends</div>
          <div>instruct me.</div>
          <div>I would not do the floor pans but at least the flat
            sections needing repair. One area is on the firewall&nbsp;</div=
          <div>near the commission plates .&nbsp;<span style=3D"font-size:1=
2pt;">probably a 1"x5" section.</span></div>
          <div><br clear=3D"none">
          </div>
          <div>So most sections I need are flat sections. Except for the
            crazy corner section directly under the fuse box, master
            cylinder area.</div>
          <div>Which leads me to this: If I can locate a perfect
            salvaged inner fender and wheel arch that I can extract this
            crazy multi-sided</div>
          <div>section. I simply cut out the bad and have someone weld
            in the good replacement. saves fabricating from scratch. or
            do it myself.&nbsp;</div>
          <div><br clear=3D"none">
          </div>
          <div>Anyone have a good source to find donor panels: wheel
            arch/inner fender sections?</div>
          <div>Ideally here in Oregon, but willing to pay for shipping.
            Be even nicer if someone has the small section I need and
            not have to ruin a good part that is intact.</div>
          <div><br clear=3D"none">
          </div>
          <div>Thanks.</div>
          <div><br clear=3D"none">
          </div>
          <div>James</div>
          <div><br clear=3D"none">
          </div>
        </div></div><div class=3D"yiv5495278081yqt7820968326" id=3D"yiv5495=
278081yqtfd81183">
      </div></div><div class=3D"yiv5495278081yqt7820968326" id=3D"yiv549527=
8081yqtfd75279">
      <br clear=3D"none">
      <fieldset class=3D"yiv5495278081mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br clear=3D"none">
      </div><pre><div class=3D"yiv5495278081yqt7820968326" id=3D"yiv5495278=
081yqtfd98925">_______________________________________________
oz-txt-link-freetext" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.=
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<a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" class=3D"yiv5495278081moz-txt-link-abbre=
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</div></pre><div class=3D"yiv5495278081yqt7820968326" id=3D"yiv5495278081yq=
tfd57137">
    </div></blockquote><div class=3D"yiv5495278081yqt7820968326" id=3D"yiv5=
495278081yqtfd82394">
    <br clear=3D"none">
  </div></div></div><br><div class=3D"yqt7820968326" id=3D"yqtfd85559">____=
___________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">Support Team.=
Net <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_b=
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[email-masked]

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---

From: im sloane via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 20:13:02 +0000

--===============0020583111300600099==
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It's interesting how a topic like this wakes us all up from the dead on thi=
s list. It's nice to see everybody again!=20
IMO - this is one of those classic topics where we all agree to disagree be=
cause we all attack the hobby in our own way. I'm not saying anyone is wron=
g. There are guys that do all the work themselves=2C and there are guys tha=
t just want it done right and they write the check. And everybody in betwee=
n.=20
I had a buddy at work that had two classics (non-LBC) and he just decided h=
e wanted them to be "perfect"=2C took them to supposedly good experts of bo=
th marques=2C and wrote the big checks. He almost never got his cars back=
=2C took years=2C one guy filed for bankruptcy=2C his lawyer had to threate=
n the other guy=2C ended up taking one of them to a third guy that was even=
 willing to start where the first guy left off.=20
Just be careful out there.  YMMV
Sloane :o)

 		 	   		  =

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<body class=3D'hmmessage'><div dir=3D'ltr'>It's interesting how a topic lik=
e this wakes us all up from the dead on this list. It's nice to see everybo=
dy again!&nbsp=3B<div><br></div><div>IMO - this is one of those classic top=
ics where we all agree to disagree because we all attack the hobby in our o=
wn way. I'm not saying anyone is wrong. There are guys that do all the work=
 themselves=2C and there are guys that just want it done right and they wri=
te the check. And everybody in between.&nbsp=3B</div><div><br></div><div>I =
had a buddy at work that had two classics (non-LBC) and he just decided he =
wanted them to be "perfect"=2C took them to supposedly good experts of both=
 marques=2C and wrote the big checks. He almost never got his cars back=2C =
took years=2C one guy filed for bankruptcy=2C his lawyer had to threaten th=
e other guy=2C ended up taking one of them to a third guy that was even wil=
ling to start where the first guy left off.&nbsp=3B</div><div><br></div><di=
v>Just be careful out there. &nbsp=3BYMMV</div><div><br></div><div>Sloane :=
o)<br><br><div><br></div><style><!--=0A=
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From: dave n via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:26:47 -0500

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+1

I am cleaning up the mess from a so called trusted mechanic.  I let him =
do a lot of the work, which I now realize I could have and should have =
handled.  he screwed up or didn=E2=80=99t complete a lot and because he =
kept it so long without finishing it a lot of the bare metal parts have =
surface rust.

the nightmare continues.

From: im sloane via 6pack=20
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 3:13 PM
To: [email-masked]=20
Subject: Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...

It's interesting how a topic like this wakes us all up from the dead on =
this list. It's nice to see everybody again! =20

IMO - this is one of those classic topics where we all agree to disagree =
because we all attack the hobby in our own way. I'm not saying anyone is =
wrong. There are guys that do all the work themselves, and there are =
guys that just want it done right and they write the check. And =
everybody in between.=20

I had a buddy at work that had two classics (non-LBC) and he just =
decided he wanted them to be "perfect", took them to supposedly good =
experts of both marques, and wrote the big checks. He almost never got =
his cars back, took years, one guy filed for bankruptcy, his lawyer had =
to threaten the other guy, ended up taking one of them to a third guy =
that was even willing to start where the first guy left off.=20

Sloane :o)

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<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>+1</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I am cleaning up the mess from a so called trusted mechanic.&nbsp; =
I let=20
him do a lot of the work, which I now realize I could have and should =
have=20
handled.&nbsp; he screwed up or didn=E2=80=99t complete a lot and =
because he kept it so=20
long without finishing it a lot of the bare metal parts have surface =
rust.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>the nightmare continues.</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">im sloane via 6pack</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, June 11, 2015 3:13 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair=20
quote...</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>It's interesting how a topic like this wakes us all up =
from the=20
dead on this list. It's nice to see everybody again!&nbsp;=20
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>IMO - this is one of those classic topics where we all agree to =
disagree=20
because we all attack the hobby in our own way. I'm not saying anyone is =
wrong.=20
There are guys that do all the work themselves, and there are guys that =
just=20
want it done right and they write the check. And everybody in between. =
</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I had a buddy at work that had two classics (non-LBC) and he just =
decided=20
he wanted them to be "perfect", took them to supposedly good experts of =
both=20
marques, and wrote the big checks. He almost never got his cars back, =
took=20
years, one guy filed for bankruptcy, his lawyer had to threaten the =
other guy,=20
ended up taking one of them to a third guy that was even willing to =
start where=20
the first guy left off. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Just be careful out there.&nbsp; YMMV</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Sloane :o)<BR><BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: James_ via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 09:59:51 -0700

So to follow up on this topic...
Has anyone replaced the full floor pan? Meaning, not just leaving an edge of the old pan to weld to and leaving the flat side that gets spot welded to the inner sill or rocker panel?
I looked carefully under the car and the passenger side has indeed been replaced before and they left the original lip or flat side intact and then welded on top of it. 
I suspect this is because that may be difficult to get to and maybe a body off is the only way to properly replace.
I really rather replace the entire floor pan. Is it possible w/o lifting the body off?
I signed up for a welding class (there goes my summer Saturday afternoons-that was painful to do given the amazing summers oregon has)
In any case it sounds like a pain of a job to complete a replacement of my pans. 
Mine are in rough shape and doubtful I'd have a good lip to weld to and I'd hate to cut/butcher my beautiful new pans. 

Cheers

James

[email-masked]

---

From: alan salvatore via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 13:12:21 -0400

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--001a114fa440cdc16c05196ed70a

To replace the whole floor pan the body has to come off.
No ifs, ands, or buts.
Al
On Jun 26, 2015 1:01 PM, "James_ via 6pack" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Has anyone replaced the full floor pan? Meaning, not just leaving an edge
> of the old pan to weld to and leaving the flat side that gets spot welded
> to the inner sill or rocker panel?
> I looked carefully under the car and the passenger side has indeed been
> replaced before and they left the original lip or flat side intact and then
> welded on top of it.
> I signed up for a welding class (there goes my summer Saturday
> afternoons-that was painful to do given the amazing summers oregon has)
> Mine are in rough shape and doubtful I'd have a good lip to weld to and
> I'd hate to cut/butcher my beautiful new pans.
>
> Cheers
>
> James
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]
>
>

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<p dir=3D"ltr">To replace the whole floor pan the body has to come off.<br>
No ifs, ands, or buts.<br>
Al</p>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Jun 26, 2015 1:01 PM, &quot;James_ via 6pack&=
quot; &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&=
gt; wrote:<br type=3D"attribution"><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">So to fo=
llow up on this topic...<br>
Has anyone replaced the full floor pan? Meaning, not just leaving an edge o=
f the old pan to weld to and leaving the flat side that gets spot welded to=
 the inner sill or rocker panel?<br>
I looked carefully under the car and the passenger side has indeed been rep=
laced before and they left the original lip or flat side intact and then we=
lded on top of it.<br>
I suspect this is because that may be difficult to get to and maybe a body =
off is the only way to properly replace.<br>
I really rather replace the entire floor pan. Is it possible w/o lifting th=
e body off?<br>
I signed up for a welding class (there goes my summer Saturday afternoons-t=
hat was painful to do given the amazing summers oregon has)<br>
In any case it sounds like a pain of a job to complete a replacement of my =
pans.<br>
Mine are in rough shape and doubtful I&#39;d have a good lip to weld to and=
 I&#39;d hate to cut/butcher my beautiful new pans.<br>
<br>
Cheers<br>
<br>
James<br>
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From: "Robert M. Lang via 6pack" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:07:55 -0400 (EDT)

Hi,

I have done the replacement _complete_ with complete removal of the 
original floor pans and then seam and plug welding the floors in.

The hardest part and the most time will be spent cleaning the flanges to 
get things FLAT for good welding contact.

In retrospect, if you have access to "cleco clamps", they are worth every 
penny for a job like this. I use 1/8 inch ones. Those and Vise Grip 
welding clamps.

It is easier if you can lift the body, though. You don't need to lift if 
clear of the frame, you just need wiggle room to get around "stuff".

regards,
rml
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Former NER Solo Chair                          |
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