Subject: [6pack] '75 TR6 project update

From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2019 06:04:09 -0600

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Hello friends,
   Every car that I have restored, and there have been many, I have done on
a tight budget. Anyone with a fat wallet can put a car back to as-new
condition. My goal is, and has always been, to do the best job possible
with my labor, instead of money. That means not only using my hard-earned
skills but also by using my brain. By that last bit I mean, doing all I can
or should do and choosing to buy where there's a better solution. For
example...
   I am making the carpets for the TR6 using cut pile automotive carpet
left over from a friend's Volvo 1800ES. Its a good color for the TR6 and I
had a lot left over. That said, there are all but no scraps left now! Used
it all!
   The panels and seat upholstery are new. I bought the kits back a bit ago
when Moss Motors was having a big deep discount sale. I also bought new
seat foam, bottoms and backs. A comfortable ride starts at the seat!
   New walnut wood fascias are available for about $400 but I chose a
different route. I cemented the original plywood back together, returning
it's structural integrity. The walnut veneer was peeling off so I removed
any stubborn bits down to the substrate. I bought a length of zebra maple
veneer for about $30, delivered, and glued it on to the substrate. Gorilla
Glue for Wood was used. I then very carefully cut out the openings with a
sanding drum in the Dremel tool. That was a long and artful process because
the gauge holes are not only recessed but also, they need to be perfectly
round circles. Any errors in the light color wood would be glaring against
the black-rimmed gauges.
   Paint, as you know, was done affordably too. I am a repeat customer at
the Tomball, Texas MAACO and get treated well there. The TR6 is the 5th car
I have had them paint. In exchange for my loyalty, the manager provides
their top-of-the-line package to me at the manager's-special price. My
little 6 got body work (rust on the lip of the boot lid, luggage carrier
holes filled, hail dents on the bonnet flattened, and general prep),
sealant, primer, finish sanding, base coat and three layers of clear coat.
All for $1500!!! I did not opt for color sanding and buffing like they did
on the Volvo's bonnet and front wings. That work can be done later, after
the paint is harder, if desired.
   The car has been in my shop for weeks now as I work on reassembly.
During that time the  paint has gotten dirty and has picked up spray paint
dust from painting other parts. As a test the other day, I 'clayed' a front
wing and found that the result is clear of all contaminants, glassy smooth,
and better than anything that British-Leyland ever put on a Triumph!
   The new convertible top (head) is in the box awaiting completion of
everything else. It too was purchased when Moss had a deeply discounted
sale. The top is black vinyl and will look nice, especially since the rest
of the exterior trim is black (except door handles and lock barrels).
   The wheels are period correct if not original. A friend refinished them
in Porsche Wheel Silver powder coat. Metal valve stems are installed and
new tires are mounted.
   There is one remaining mechanical repair needed. Yes, there is still
tuning to do but that's regular maintenance with a Triumph or MG. The
repair needed is to replace the dust boots on the steering rack. I'm
waiting to see if the steering is 'tight' or a bit vague, before replacing
the boots. If the rack has to come out, I will do the boots then. If not,
they can be replaced *in situ* at any time.
   The suspension, dampers and brakes, front and rear rear, are rebuilt
with new bushings, bearings, calipers, pads, shoes, etc.. That bit is
already as-new.
   So my TR6 'driver' is going to be really pretty, and it already runs and
handles great! There is light at the end of this tunnel.

Rick

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<div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">Hello =
friends,</div><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Every car=
 that I have restored, and there have been many, I have done on a tight bud=
get. Anyone with a fat wallet can put a car back to as-new condition. My go=
al is, and has always been, to do the best job possible with my labor, inst=
ead of money. That means not only using my hard-earned skills but also by u=
sing my brain. By that last bit I mean, doing all I can or should do and ch=
oosing to buy where there&#39;s a better solution. For example...</span><di=
v dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I am making th=
e carpets for the TR6 using cut pile automotive carpet left over from a fri=
end&#39;s Volvo 1800ES. Its a good color for the TR6 and I had a lot left o=
ver. That said, there are all but no scraps left now! Used it all!=C2=A0</d=
iv><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The pane=
ls and seat upholstery are new. I bought the kits back a bit ago when Moss =
Motors was having a big deep discount sale. I also bought new seat foam, bo=
ttoms and backs. A comfortable ride starts at the seat!</div><div dir=3D"au=
to" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0New walnut wood fascias a=
re available for about=C2=A0<span class=3D"money">$400</span>=C2=A0but I ch=
ose a different route. I cemented the original plywood back together, retur=
ning it&#39;s structural integrity. The walnut veneer was peeling off so I =
removed any stubborn bits down to the substrate. I bought a length of zebra=
 maple veneer for about=C2=A0<span class=3D"money">$30,</span>=C2=A0deliver=
ed, and glued it on to the substrate. Gorilla Glue for Wood was used. I the=
n very carefully cut out the openings with a sanding drum in the Dremel too=
l. That was a long and artful process because the gauge holes are not only =
recessed but also, they need to be perfectly round circles. Any errors in t=
he light color wood would be glaring against the black-rimmed gauges.</div>=
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Paint, as y=
ou know, was done affordably too. I am a repeat customer at the Tomball, Te=
xas MAACO and get treated well there. The TR6 is the 5th car I have had the=
m paint. In exchange for my loyalty, the manager provides their top-of-the-=
line package to me at the manager&#39;s-special price. My little 6 got body=
 work (rust on the lip of the boot lid, luggage carrier holes filled, hail =
dents on the bonnet flattened, and general prep), sealant, primer, finish s=
anding, base coat and three layers of clear coat. All for=C2=A0<span class=
=3D"money">$1500</span>!!! I did not opt for color sanding and buffing like=
 they did on the Volvo&#39;s bonnet and front wings. That work can be done =
later, after the paint is harder, if desired.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=
=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The car has been in my shop for we=
eks now as I work on reassembly. During that time the=C2=A0 paint has gotte=
n dirty and has picked up spray paint dust from painting other parts. As a =
test the other day, I &#39;clayed&#39; a front wing and found that the resu=
lt is clear of all contaminants, glassy smooth, and better than anything th=
at British-Leyland ever put on a Triumph!</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"f=
ont-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The new convertible top (head) is in th=
e box awaiting completion of everything else. It too was purchased when Mos=
s had a deeply discounted sale. The top is black vinyl and will look nice, =
especially since the rest of the exterior trim is black (except door handle=
s and lock barrels).</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif=
">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The wheels are period correct if not original. A friend refi=
nished them in Porsche Wheel Silver powder coat. Metal valve stems are inst=
alled and new tires are mounted.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-famil=
y:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0There is one remaining mechanical repair needed.=
 Yes, there is still tuning to do but that&#39;s regular maintenance with a=
 Triumph or MG. The repair needed is to replace the dust boots on the steer=
ing rack. I&#39;m waiting to see if the steering is &#39;tight&#39; or a bi=
t vague, before replacing the boots. If the rack has to come out, I will do=
 the boots then. If not, they can be replaced=C2=A0<i>in situ</i>=C2=A0at a=
ny time.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0The suspension, dampers and brakes, front and rear rear, are rebuilt wit=
h new bushings, bearings, calipers, pads, shoes, etc.. That bit is already =
as-new.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0So my TR6 &#39;driver&#39; is going to be really pretty, and it already =
runs and handles great! There is light at the end of this tunnel.=C2=A0</di=
v><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><br></div><div dir=3D"=
auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">Rick</div></div>

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