Subject: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild

From: Robert Rochlin via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 07:27:52 -0400

I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine.  It down’t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be  completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.
	I’ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I’ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation.  I’m figuring that I can improve on that record.  When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease.  I don’t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease.  In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease.  About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. 
	Any advice would be appreciated. 
	Best,
	Bob 
	’72 TR6
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From: Robert Perry via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 06:56:19 -0500 (GMT-05:00)

Robert,

I would just get high temp red grease tube for the grease gun.  They are only around $5.  As far as brake fluid I would use DOT 5.0 brake fluid.  I went 20 years without rebuilding the brake and clutch master cylinders and wheel / slave cylinders on my TR6.  The only reason that I had to rebuild/ replace them was due to adding DOT 5.1 brake fluid to the DOT 5.0 brake fluid.  They do not mix well and took some time to fail.  I remembered DOT 5 something at the time of the purchase of the DOT 5.1.

Regards,

Robert

-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert Rochlin via 6pack <[email-masked]>
>Sent: May 17, 2020 6:27 AM
>To: list Triumph <[email-masked]>, "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]
>

[email-masked]

---

From: COLIN THOM via 6pack <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 18:45:39 -0600 (MDT)

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After a couple of go-rounds with rebuilt master cylinders, by myself and by the likes of Apple Hydraulics, I learned that the best approach is to replace it with a new one. They're not that expensive in the grand scheme of things. 

Colin 

From: [email-masked] 
To: [email-masked] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 10:48:23 AM 
Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 64, Issue 23 

Send 6pack mailing list submissions to 
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Today's Topics: 

1. Re: [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild (DAVE HOGYE) 
2. Fwd: [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild (Richard Taylor) 

---------------------------------------------------------------------- 

Message: 1 
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:39:22 -0700 (PDT) 
From: DAVE HOGYE <[email-masked]> 
To: Robert Rochlin <[email-masked]>, Richard Lindsay 
<[email-masked]> 
Cc: list Triumph <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] 
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild 

If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis. This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly. 
Good luck for good brakes. 
Dave H. 

> On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin <[email-masked]> wrote: 
> 
> Hi Richard, 
> I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. 
> Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. 
> Best, 
> Bob 
> 
> 
> > > On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < [email-masked] mailto:[email-masked] > wrote: 
> > 
> > Hello Bob, et al., 
> > 
> > Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. 
> > 
> > I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? 
> > In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! 
> > 
> > Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" 
> > 
> > -rick 
> > 
> > On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < [email-masked] mailto:[email-masked] > wrote: 
> > 
> > > > > I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. 
> > > I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. 
> > > ?72 TR6 
> > > Supporthttp://Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> > > [email-masked] mailto:[email-masked] 
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked] 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > > 
> ** [email-masked] ** 
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Message: 2 
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 10:48:17 -0700 
From: Richard Taylor <[email-masked]> 
To: 6pack <[email-masked]> 
Subject: [6pack] Fwd: [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild 

When one purchases a ?new? MC they are mostly buying one with a clean bore. The condition of the bore in a used one can be seen inspecting it by eye, or looking down the bore with the aid of a camera scope to check the one at the bottom. If these bores are good, or at least hone-able, then a simple replacement of parts that come in a rebuild kit makes it as good as what one hopes to get in a new one. Pocket the $75 savings and take your lady out for a nice dinner, in the TR6. There?s also the satisfaction that comes with doing it yourself that one can?t put a price on. If one isn?t comfortable in any of this, then perhaps just dropping (or towing) the car to an auto repair shop would be best. 

Dick 

> Begin forwarded message: 
> 
> From: DAVE HOGYE via 6pack <[email-masked]> 
> Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild 
> Date: May 17, 2020 at 9:39:22 AM PDT 
> To: Robert Rochlin <[email-masked]>, Richard Lindsay <[email-masked]> 
> Cc: list Triumph <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] 
> Reply-To: DAVE HOGYE <[email-masked]> 
> 
> If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis. This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly. 
> Good luck for good brakes. 
> Dave H. 
>> On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin <[email-masked]> wrote: 
>> 
>> Hi Richard, 
>> I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. 
>> Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. 
>> Best, 
>> Bob 
>> 
>>> 
>>> Hello Bob, et al., 
>>> 
>>> Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. 
>>> 
>>> I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? 
>>> In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! 
>>> 
>>> Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" 
>>> 
>>> -rick 
>>> 
>>> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. 
>>> I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. 
>>> ?72 TR6 
>>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive> 
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums <http://www.team.net/forums> 
>>> 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> 
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked] <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]> 
>>> 
>> 
>> ** [email-masked] ** 
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
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Subject: Digest Footer 

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End of 6pack Digest, Vol 64, Issue 23 
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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-s=
ize: 10pt; color: #000000"><div>After a couple of go-rounds with rebuilt ma=
ster cylinders, by myself and by the likes of Apple Hydraulics, I learned t=
hat the best approach is to replace it with a new one. They're not that exp=
ensive in the grand scheme of things.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></=
div><div>Colin</div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr" data-marker=3D"__DIVIDE=
R__"><div data-marker=3D"__HEADERS__"><b>From: </b>[email-masked]=
.net<br><b>To: </b>[email-masked]<br><b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, May 19, 20=
20 10:48:23 AM<br><b>Subject: </b>6pack Digest, Vol 64, Issue 23<br></div><=
div><br></div><div data-marker=3D"__QUOTED_TEXT__">Send 6pack mailing list =
submissions to<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;6pack@aut=
ox.team.net<br><br>To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visi=
t<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;http://autox.team.net/=
mailman/listinfo/6pack<br>or, via email, send a message with subject or bod=
y 'help' to<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;6pack-reques=
[email-masked]<br><br>You can reach the person managing the list at<br>&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;[email-masked]<br=
><br>When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br=
>than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."<br><br><br>Today's Topics:<br><br>&=
nbsp;&nbsp; 1. Re: [TR] &nbsp;Master Cylinder Rebuild (DAVE HOGYE)<br>&nbsp=
;&nbsp; 2. Fwd: &nbsp;[TR] &nbsp;Master Cylinder Rebuild (Richard Taylor)<b=
r><br><br>-----------------------------------------------------------------=
-----<br><br>Message: 1<br>Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:39:22 -0700 (PDT)<br>F=
rom: DAVE HOGYE &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>To: Robert Rochlin &lt;rroch=
[email-masked]&gt;, Richard Lindsay<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>Cc: list Triumph &lt;Triu=
[email-masked]&gt;, [email-masked]<br>Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] =
&nbsp;Master Cylinder Rebuild<br>Message-ID: &lt;1042483499.289465.15897335=
[email-masked]&gt;<br>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"utf-8=
"<br><br>If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to r=
ebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sen=
ding it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. &nbsp;I have never r=
ebuilt a master that was available new. &nbsp;Time is money and bent panels=
 and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. &nbsp;I learned very ear=
ly in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual b=
asis. &nbsp;This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. =
&nbsp;Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and=
 they are at the most $80 new. &nbsp;At this cost, it does not make sense t=
o rebuild one. &nbsp;I understand the TR6 has a different style master and =
may be more costly. <br>Good luck for good brakes. <br>Dave H.<br><br>&gt; =
On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrot=
e:<br>&gt; <br>&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; Hi Richard,<br>&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; I sent =
my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and=
 installed it back installed it in the TR6. &nbsp;As I recall it worked fin=
e for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the b=
rakes totally failed. &nbsp;The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door=
, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sen=
t the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop f=
ixed the TR6. &nbsp;They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it.=
 &nbsp;After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I re=
placed it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine b=
ut now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am g=
oing to replace the seals myself.<br>&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Although I?v=
e had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carbure=
tors, shocks, and distributers, &nbsp;I?ll never send a master cylinder to =
a rebuilder again.<br>&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; Best,<br>&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; Bob<br=
>&gt; <br>&gt; <br>&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp;=
 &nbsp; &nbsp; On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay &lt; richardoli=
[email-masked] mailto:[email-masked] &gt; wrote:<br>&gt; &gt; <=
br>&gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Hello Bob, et al.,<br>&gt; &gt; <b=
r>&gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Glad you're well. Here=
 is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older pe=
ople (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe sepa=
ration. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and th=
ey're back face to face. I wish them luck.<br>&gt; &gt; <br>&gt; &gt; &nbsp=
; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;I have had two, fresh from the box, &nb=
sp;M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and =
disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things rig=
ht, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question =
I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?<br>&gt;=
 &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;In one of my unit's failures=
, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one c=
loser to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The s=
econd unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked=
 perfectly and still works great today!<br>&gt; &gt; <br>&gt; &gt; &nbsp; &=
nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuil=
t cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong?=
 Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?"<br>&gt; &gt; <br>&gt=
; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; -rick<br>&gt; &gt; <br>&gt; &gt; &nbsp; =
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack=
 &lt; [email-masked] mailto:[email-masked] &gt; wrote:<br>&gt; =
&gt; <br>&gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &gt; &gt; &gt;=
 I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarant=
ine. &nbsp;It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order=
 will be &nbsp;completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some busine=
ss slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &nbsp=
; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; I?ve had a=
 checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to =
be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail =
soon after reinstallation. &nbsp;I?m figuring that I can improve on that re=
cord. &nbsp;When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild p=
rocess the article recommended red grease. &nbsp;I don?t have any, but I do=
 have Volvo silicone breaks grease. &nbsp;In the absence of red brake greas=
e can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i b=
ite the bullet and get the red brake grease. &nbsp;About the only red greas=
e I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 sh=
ipping.<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; =
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Any advice would be appreciated.<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &nb=
sp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Best,<br=
>&gt; &gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nb=
sp; &nbsp; Bob<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; =
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; ?72 TR6<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; =
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; _______________________________________________<br>&gt=
; &gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Supporthttp://Team.Ne=
t http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &n=
bsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96<br>&gt; &gt; &gt;=
 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Archive: http://www.team.net/arc=
hive<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Forums: ht=
tp://www.team.net/forums<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; <br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp;=
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et<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; http://autox=
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; <br><br><br>-------------- next part --------------<br>An HTML attachment=
 was scrubbed...<br>URL: &lt;http://autox.team.net/pipermail/6pack/attachme=
nts/20200517/ac652682/attachment-0001.htm&gt;<br><br>----------------------=
--------<br><br>Message: 2<br>Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 10:48:17 -0700<br>From=
: Richard Taylor &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>To: 6pack &lt;6pack@auto=
x.team.net&gt;<br>Subject: [6pack] Fwd: &nbsp;[TR] &nbsp;Master Cylinder Re=
build<br>Message-ID: &lt;[email-masked]&gt;=
<br>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"utf-8"<br><br>When one purchases a=
 ?new? MC they are mostly buying one with a clean bore. The condition of th=
e bore in a used one can be seen inspecting it by eye, or looking down the =
bore with the aid of a camera scope to check the one at the bottom. If thes=
e bores are good, or at least hone-able, then a simple replacement of parts=
 that come in a rebuild kit makes it as good as what one hopes to get in a =
new one. Pocket the $75 savings and take your lady out for a nice dinner, i=
n the TR6. There?s also the satisfaction that comes with doing it yourself =
that one can?t put a price on. If one isn?t comfortable in any of this, the=
n perhaps just dropping (or towing) the car to an auto repair shop would be=
 best. <br><br>Dick<br><br>&gt; Begin forwarded message:<br>&gt; <br>&gt; F=
rom: DAVE HOGYE via 6pack &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>&gt; Subject: Re:=
 [6pack] [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild<br>&gt; Date: May 17, 2020 at 9:39:22=
 AM PDT<br>&gt; To: Robert Rochlin &lt;[email-masked]&gt;, Richard Li=
ndsay &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>&gt; Cc: list Triumph &lt;Triump=
[email-masked]&gt;, [email-masked]<br>&gt; Reply-To: DAVE HOGYE &l=
t;[email-masked]&gt;<br>&gt; <br>&gt; If a new master cylinder is avai=
lable, why bother with trying to rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild =
kit is just a few dollars, but sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot=
 to the cost. &nbsp;I have never rebuilt a master that was available new. &=
nbsp;Time is money and bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being d=
angerous. &nbsp;I learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the b=
rake fluid at least on an annual basis. &nbsp;This saves components from fa=
ilure and adds long life to them. &nbsp;Wilwood and others make excellent r=
eplacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. &nbsp;At t=
his cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. &nbsp;I understand the TR6=
 has a different style master and may be more costly. <br>&gt; Good luck fo=
r good brakes. <br>&gt; Dave H.<br>&gt;&gt; On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robe=
rt Rochlin &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote: <br>&gt;&gt; <br>&gt;&gt; Hi=
 Richard,<br>&gt;&gt; I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuild=
er for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. &n=
bsp;As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was pulin=
g out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. &nbsp;The TR6 rolled int=
 my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A ve=
ry expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time =
to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. &nbsp;They rebuilt the m/c again=
 gratis and I reinstalled it. &nbsp;After about 8 months the m/c started to=
 fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone s=
everal seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Bef=
ore replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself.<br>&gt;&gt; =
&nbsp; Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components includin=
g starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, &nbsp;I?ll never send a =
master cylinder to a rebuilder again.<br>&gt;&gt; Best,<br>&gt;&gt; Bob <br=
>&gt;&gt; <br>&gt;&gt;&gt; On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay &lt=
; [email-masked] &lt;mailto:[email-masked]&gt;&gt; wr=
ote:<br>&gt;&gt;&gt; <br>&gt;&gt;&gt; Hello Bob, et al.,<br>&gt;&gt;&gt; <b=
r>&gt;&gt;&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp;Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too ar=
e relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginn=
ing to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' =
seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. =
I wish them luck.<br>&gt;&gt;&gt; <br>&gt;&gt;&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp;I have had =
two, fresh from the box, &nbsp;M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don'=
t wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quit=
e willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side=
 of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How=
 did your M/Cs fail?<br>&gt;&gt;&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp;In one of my unit's failu=
res, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the on=
e closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. Th=
e second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C wor=
ked perfectly and still works great today!<br>&gt;&gt;&gt; <br>&gt;&gt;&gt;=
 &nbsp; &nbsp;Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someon=
e in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How di=
d your M/C "fail catastrophically?"<br>&gt;&gt;&gt; <br>&gt;&gt;&gt; -rick<=
br>&gt;&gt;&gt; <br>&gt;&gt;&gt; On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochl=
in via 6pack &lt; [email-masked] &lt;mailto:[email-masked]&gt;&=
gt; wrote: <br>&gt;&gt;&gt; I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing w=
ell in this time of quarantine. &nbsp;It down?t look like here in Massachus=
etts the stay at home order will be &nbsp;completely lifted for several of =
more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reop=
en. <br>&gt;&gt;&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; I?ve had a checkered histo=
ry with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by re=
putable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reins=
tallation. &nbsp;I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. &nbsp;When=
 I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the artic=
le recommended red grease. &nbsp;I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo sili=
cone breaks grease. &nbsp;In the absence of red brake grease can I just app=
ly brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet a=
nd get the red brake grease. &nbsp;About the only red grease I could fine w=
as on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. <br>&gt;=
&gt;&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Any advice would be appreciated. <br>&=
gt;&gt;&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Best, <br>&gt;&gt;&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp=
; &nbsp; &nbsp; Bob <br>&gt;&gt;&gt; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; ?72 TR6 <b=
r>&gt;&gt;&gt; _______________________________________________ <br>&gt;&gt;=
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