From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 00:45:04 2009 From: WLLDBL@aol.com To: thehartnetts@earthlink.net, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 02:43:58 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries Len, I suspect, that Interstate and Optima contract out the actual manufacturing of their branded batteries, in the same way that so many bezillion other companies put their own names on products Made in China. Doug ----- Original Message ----- Doug: Interstate Batteries is another battery company and according to their web site is located in Dallas, Texas. To quote them, "Enjoying a reputation for top-quality products, business innovations and consistently reliable service, Interstate Batteries is the No. 1 replacement brand battery in North America. Now over a billion dollar, privately-held corporation, our enterprise continues to thrive on our innovation as well as our good old-fashioned business principles." Johnson Controls shows Optima as one of their products yet the Optima web site makes it sound like a stand alone company headquartered in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. I see no mention of Johnson on the Optima web site although it is headquartered in Glendale, Wisconsin, which appears to be about six miles north of Milwaukee. ??? Len **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 05:48:43 2009 From: Awgertoo@aol.com To: WLLDBL@aol.com, thehartnetts@earthlink.net, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 07:47:40 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries >From the Optima Battery warranty: "OPTIMA will provide arrangements to evaluate the replacement request at our Factory in Aurora, CO." Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://www.dell.com/co ntent/products/features.aspx/laptops_great_deals?c=us%26cs=19%26l=en%26s=d hs%26~ck=anavml) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 05:58:32 2009 From: "John Sims" To: "'Len and/or Marge Hartnett'" , "'Healey Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2009 07:57:43 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries I have used Interstate Batteries for years. One of the few that still makes batteries with the "ears" for the hold down rods/clamps. One Lister mentioned that after installing a new battery the starter cranked faster. If your starter cranks slowly, be sure to also check to see that the engine ground strap is connected properly. Makes one heck of a difference. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge Hartnett Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 12:02 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries Doug: Interstate Batteries is another battery company and according to their web site is located in Dallas, Texas. To quote them, "Enjoying a reputation for top-quality products, business innovations and consistently reliable service, Interstate Batteries is the No. 1 replacement brand battery in North America. Now over a billion dollar, privately-held corporation, our enterprise continues to thrive on our innovation as well as our good old-fashioned business principles." Johnson Controls shows Optima as one of their products yet the Optima web site makes it sound like a stand alone company headquartered in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. I see no mention of Johnson on the Optima web site although it is headquartered in Glendale, Wisconsin, which appears to be about six miles north of Milwaukee. ??? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 08:18:54 2009 From: "Rich C" To: , , , Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 10:18:02 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries Antique Battery Supply in Ohio now supplies the best of both worlds as far as I'm concerned. I recently purchased one of their absolutely accurate Lucas style moulded Group 27 batteries with all the correct details for a BJ8 restoration, but they have an Optima battery sealed inside the moulded Lucas case. The battery has a 10 year Optima warranty, there is no fussing with an acid battery, no topping up, no gassing, etc. Unscrew any of the Lucas filler caps and there's the bright orange Optima unit inside! Of course lots of warning tags and literature about not adding acid or water to this case! Now if we can only get them to install one of these in the 17L series 6V Lucas case, and another 17L case that is empty except for the terminal connections so it can be installed in series in the car, one on each side a per original, we'd have the problem solved for the 2 seater models. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 7:47 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries > >From the Optima Battery warranty: > > "OPTIMA will provide arrangements to evaluate the replacement request at > our > Factory in Aurora, CO." > > Best--Michael Oritt > **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://www.dell.com/co > ntent/products/features.aspx/laptops_great_deals?c=us%26cs=19%26l=en%26s=d > hs%26~ck=anavml) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler@quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 08:39:46 2009 From: jim brown To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 07:38:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gasoline To complicate matters, I just received notice from both Audi and Porsche recommending only "Top Tier" gasolines. Apparently the regulations that determined how much detergent had to be added to gasoline to be considered "premium" has changed. Most gas has only about one fourth of the previous amount which is leading to clogged injectors in some cars. Google top tier gasoline for more info. Only a few "brand"names qualify including Shell and Chevron. Probably little effect on a needle and seat cars but food for thought. Jim Brown ________________________________ From: "GSFuqua1@aol.com" To: helyjohn@cablespeed.com; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 11:09:30 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gasoline John Snyder, what you say is true however the additives that are put in are usually a dye, a detergent and some type of oxygenate like ethanol or in the past MTBE. Having run refineries, sold & traded gasoline for a long time as well, there is just no additive that is worth 30 cents per gallon. Further when we put them in our LBC's many of those additives are not beneficial to our cars. Ethanol is a big waste in my personal opinion because it takes 3 times the energy to produce it than it gives off. It is also heavy subsidized from the government, which of course means us. It is also a proven fact that gasoline with ethanol will give you less miles per gallon. Again that energy thing. There is also no real reason for the spread or price difference between regular unleaded, mid-grade and premium gasoline. It takes a small amount of extra refining to made the different grades so there is some additional cost but again not what is being charged. Lest I sound negative oil companies have paid the bills for me & my family for 3 generations now. Buy what you are comfortable with or trust. Gary Fuqua **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as jbrown5093@yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 08:44:02 2009 From: "John P. New" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 10:42:36 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries Rich, The only site on the Web that I can find is "Antique Auto Battery" in Ohio at www.antiqueautobattery.com, but they list only lead acid batteries (although the banner on their home page says "Ask us about our maintenance free sealed batteries"). Is this the place? If not, do you have the contact info for the supplier you're talking about? John New On February 1, 2009 10:18 am, Rich C wrote: > Antique Battery Supply in Ohio now supplies the best of both worlds as far > as I'm concerned. I recently purchased one of their absolutely accurate > Lucas style moulded Group 27 batteries with all the correct details for a > BJ8 restoration, but they have an Optima battery sealed inside the moulded > Lucas case. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 09:26:36 2009 From: Oudesluys To: jim brown Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2009 17:24:43 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gasoline I would not worry with the old barges we have as long as the octane rating is OK. Get any petrol you like. Where I live (NL) petrol is delivered by two refineries to trucks of all oil brands, the major being Shell, Texaco, BP, Esso and a few smaller brands. These all may or may not add the so called specific dopes. Very often the same dopes are used for more than one brand or all brands. One truck load may provide petrol to stations of several brands. Also if you take samples from various (high volume) petrol stations of one and the same brand, these samples are hardly ever identical or even with the same station a week later the fomulae would be different. There is no way of knowing. There is one advise though: get petrol from a high volume station. Kees Oudesluijs NL jim brown schreef: To complicate matters, I just received notice from both Audi and Porsche recommending only "Top Tier" gasolines. Apparently the regulations that determined how much detergent had to be added to gasoline to be considered "premium" has changed. Most gas has only about one fourth of the previous amount which is leading to clogged injectors in some cars. Google top tier gasoline for more info. Only a few "brand"names qualify including Shell and Chevron. Probably little effect on a needle and seat cars but food for thought. Jim Brown _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 10:21:46 2009 From: "Rich C" To: "John P. New" , Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 12:21:18 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries John, et al, That's the place. Sorry I misquoted their name. As they state, ask them about their maintenance free sealed batteries. Rich ----- Original Message ----- From: "John P. New" To: Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 10:42 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries > Rich, > > The only site on the Web that I can find is "Antique Auto Battery" in Ohio > at > www.antiqueautobattery.com, but they list only lead acid batteries > (although > the banner on their home page says "Ask us about our maintenance free > sealed > batteries"). > > Is this the place? If not, do you have the contact info for the supplier > you're talking about? > > John New > > > On February 1, 2009 10:18 am, Rich C wrote: >> Antique Battery Supply in Ohio now supplies the best of both worlds as >> far >> as I'm concerned. I recently purchased one of their absolutely accurate >> Lucas style moulded Group 27 batteries with all the correct details for a >> BJ8 restoration, but they have an Optima battery sealed inside the >> moulded >> Lucas case. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 10:38:35 2009 From: "Al Fuller" To: , Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 12:37:46 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Optimas Gary: What kind of transponder are you using on your Healey? Does it help keep you separated from others? :) Al Fuller al@bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 12:39 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Optimas In a message dated 1/30/09 11:06:18 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > > >I need a new battery for my Healey. Anyone have any suggestions? I was > > interested in the sealed Optima but don't know much about it. > Keep one thing in mind: the Optima red is NOT a deep-cycle battery, and I'm not sure the Optima Yellow, which is a deep-cycle but more expensive, will fit (I could be wrong about that, but I know it won't fit in my MGA, though an Optima did. Did... as in past tense. Why? Simply because once you have completely discharged an Optima battery, it won't take a charge again. So if you've got a short somewhere in the system (or in my case a transponder that wasn't wired correctly) and the battery drains, poof, you're out the $150 these things cost. My suggestions: l. buy cheaper batteries -- you can get three for the price of an Optima if you shop around. 2. use a Battery Tender on the battery whenever it's parked in the garage. 3. Make sure you completely switch off the battery whenever the car is parked. 4. All of the above. Just my .02 bucks. Best, Gary _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 11:10:31 2009 From: Wilkmanracing@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 13:09:52 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject (Healeys) Batteries >>>>>>>>>>>Antique Battery Supply in Ohio now supplies the best of both worlds as far as I'm concerned. I recently purchased one of their absolutely accurate Lucas style moulded Group 27 batteries with all the correct details for a BJ8 restoration, but they have an Optima battery sealed inside the moulded Lucas case. The battery has a 10 year Optima warranty, there is no fussing with an acid battery, no topping up, no gassing, etc. Unscrew any of the Lucas filler caps and there's the bright orange Optima unit inside! Of course lots of warning tags and literature about not adding acid or water to this case! Now if we can only get them to install one of these in the 17L series 6V Lucas case, and another 17L case that is empty except for the terminal connections so it can be installed in series in the car, one on each side a per original, we'd have the problem solved for the 2 seater models. Rich Chrysler>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Rich I looked at the Antique Battery Supply web site but saw no reference to the Lucas case with Optima battery inside. Is there a secret password on their site to find this information? Bill Wilkman **************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. (http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 11:36:32 2009 From: "Rich C" To: , Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 13:36:13 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject (Healeys) Batteries > Hi Rich > > I looked at the Antique Battery Supply web site but saw no reference to > the > Lucas case with Optima battery inside. Is there a secret password on > their > site to find this information? > > Bill Wilkman Bill, I just replied to John New and the entire Healey list stating that their web site is: www.antiqueautobattery.com and that in their text they don't actually state they use the Optima, but they state something like: "ask us about our maintenance free batteries". If you call them they'll tell you about them. Rich _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 11:40:26 2009 From: john close To: Healeys Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 10:39:45 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Headliner for Sale Hi Listers - I'll give you first shot at this. It's from a BN6 hardtop. It's complete except for that narrow front piece, and I have the pattern to make another. Probably needs new fabric/ some restoration. It's crated up in my basement. Let know offline if you're interested. Then I'll drag it out into the light and take some pics for you. - John close _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 17:31:38 2009 From: john close To: Healeys Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 16:30:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Speedo and Tach for Sale Another sweet deal for you - Speedo is restored and ready to go. Tach needs restoration. Gold faces. Please contact me offline for pics. - John Close _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 18:11:04 2009 From: "Ed's Shop" To: Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 19:10:32 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gasoline <> Well, yes and no Jim, (and Gents)!!! As most of you know (or have realized over the years) I 'service' LBC. As such I also have to work on newer ones than BJ-8 (I enjoy eating) but no 'newer' than 1980. That includes MGBs & Midgets. NO, the "shape of things to come" will NEVER grace my drive!! Just yesterday I answer a 1979 MGB "Pass Smog Test" question as follows: However, in my experience of couple decades: 1] Change oil/oil filter, Air Filter & Spark Plugs JUST prior to going. 2] Fill up with Shell Hi-test. NOTHING else has ever worked for me nor my Customers?!?!? 3] Go for a drive of a 100+ miles or so ONE-WAY. 4] Re-fill with Shell Hi-test. 5] Drive from point X drive DIRECTLY to test station. 6] Do NOT sit 'idling' whilst waiting!! If you don't pass the first time, lean the carb out to point of barely running and try again. The above has also NEVER failed me with both my '70 Caminos!! Ed _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 19:00:07 2009 From: richard mayor To: healeys Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 01:59:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for disc wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer bearing is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the later bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they cannot be fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_01200 9 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 21:02:28 2009 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: richard mayor Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 20:01:43 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. Wilko On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: > Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for > disc > wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer > bearing > is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the > later > bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they > cannot be > fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard > _________________________________________________________________ > Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. > http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_01200 > 9 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as e-wilkins@cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 1 21:52:46 2009 From: "Keith Bailey" To: Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 14:50:58 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Gland Thanks to all people for all the input into what the gland consists of I am sure I can work something out that will do the job much appreciated. Keith _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 06:42:10 2009 From: T W To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 08:41:22 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs What it needs is Click & Clack's staff grammarian, I. M. Surely Wright. - Tom On Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 11:01 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. > > Wilko > > > On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: > >> Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for >> disc >> wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer >> bearing >> is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the >> later >> bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they >> cannot be >> fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Windows Live : E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. >> > http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_01200 >> >> 9 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as e-wilkins@cox.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ah3000me@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 10:08:28 2009 From: jnhorn@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2009 12:06:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Right hand dash Does anyone have a right hand dash for a 100/6 or early 3000 that they'd like to sell? I'm doing over a race car and decided to convert it to right hand drive. thanks jon einhorn BJ8 (2) 100-6 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 11:12:05 2009 From: "Herbert Miller" To: "'Len and/or Marge Hartnett'" , "'Healey Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 12:10:57 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries Let's see: 3,000/.2=15,000 178,000/15,000=11.87 You get 11.87 miles per gallon with your Healey? Herb -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge Hartnett Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 3:51 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries I'm sure we all know that batteries are not the only products that come down the assembly line and end up with different labels. "Store brand" products, mattresses, some automobiles, and gasoline are just a few examples. There are four oil refineries in the San Francisco area operated by Chevron, Valero, Tesoro, and Shell. There are seven additional brands of gasoline sold in my area and I am sure that they obtain their product from one of these refineries. California mandates the basic formula. The only difference is the additives. That is why I have no problem using the lowest priced 87 octane gasoline in my BJ8. In over 178,000 miles of not paying 20 cents more per gallon for something my car does not need, I have 'saved' about $3,000. I have found no negative aspects in doing this. "The First Mrs. Hartnett" (my wife's name for the car) is doing just fine on that diet. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 11:30 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries > According to my latest information there are three auto battery > manufacturers in the USA: > > Doug > > **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, > stay > up-to-date with the latest news. > (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as thehartnetts@earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as hgmiller3@qwest.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.15/1924 - Release Date: 1/30/2009 5:31 PM _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 11:24:15 2009 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: T W Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 10:23:21 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs Margino Vera should have let my forgetting the the "s" on bearings that would have made my grammar at least passable... Wilko On Feb 2, 2009, at 5:41 AM, T W wrote: > What it needs is Click & Clack's staff grammarian, I. M. Surely > Wright. > > - Tom > > > On Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 11:01 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wilkins@cox.net> wrote: >> BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. >> >> Wilko >> >> >> On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: >> >>> Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for >>> disc >>> wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer >>> bearing >>> is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the >>> later >>> bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they >>> cannot be >>> fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard >>> _________________________________________________________________ >>> Windows Live : E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. >>> >> http://windowslive.com/howitworks? >> ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_01200 >>> >>> 9 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Healeys@autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> You are subscribed as e-wilkins@cox.net >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as ah3000me@gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 12:18:34 2009 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 14:17:11 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] Click and Clack's staff In a message dated 2/2/09 11:06:20 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed > > Margino Vera should have let my forgetting the the "s" on bearings > that would have made my grammar at least passable... > > Wilko > > On Feb 2, 2009, at 5:41 AM, T W wrote: > > > What it needs is Click & Clack's staff grammarian, I. M. Surely > > Wright. > > > Gosh, can't you guys spell proper names: They are respectively statistician Marge N. O'Vera and staff grammarian I.M. Shirley Wright. Can't you get that straight. ************** Stay up to date on the latest news - from sports scores to stocks and so much more. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000022) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 13:25:30 2009 From: "Freese, Ken" To: "healey list" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 12:24:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 top questions 1. I ordered some steel rivets for my top frame and the supplier sent me 1/4 inch diameter. The rivets I took out are 5/16. What is original? 2. Brass washers are present with the rivets on the frame. Is that original? Seems like a good idea. 3. On the rear rail J rubber seal, does it get glued to the drain channel or the rail? If it gets glued to the rail, I assume it gets glued after the jillion top clips are in place. Anybody tried straightening a bent tubular bow? Thanks, Ken Freese 65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 13:25:58 2009 From: "PG" To: "'healeys'" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 12:25:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. Anybody have any thoughts? Paul _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 13:35:38 2009 From: "Freese, Ken" To: "PG" , "healeys" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 12:34:56 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Triumphs need all the help they can get. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 12:25 PM To: 'healeys' Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. Anybody have any thoughts? Paul Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as kendall.freese@aerojet.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 13:52:57 2009 From: "Brits'n'Pieces \(Eric Frenken\)" To: , Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 21:52:22 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Pertronix ignition, wires and coil choice? Gary, good question. It's more or less a question of "feeling" and listening to the engine. Not as perfect as an hour or two on the dyno, but it beats the pants off conventional dizzys. If you're unsure about the curve just tune in the one the original one's supposed to have and enjoy the other features like spark balancing, automatic dwell control and driving without bad rotors, condensors, etc. Eric From: Warthodson To: eric.frenken@brits-n-pieces.com Sent: 1/30/2009 12:30:11 P.M. Central Standard Time Subj: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix ignition, wires and coil choice? If memory serves me right, the 123ignition distributor comes with "multiple choice" of advance curves. Other than a rolling road dyno, how does the average amateur Healey owner pick the best one? Gary In a message dated 1/30/2009 12:19:10 A.M. Central Standard Time, lists@brits-n-pieces.com writes: In case you want a reliable ignition system go for the complete dizzy or a 123ignition. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 13:58:38 2009 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'PG'" , "'healeys'" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 13:58:04 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electric fan vs. belt drive Not sure that I'm right about this but, I heard/read ? that the cooling fan and associated assembly actually are required for engine balance, not unlike a harmonic balancer. Not sure about that on a 4cyl engine, but that's my recollection. Maybe that will ring a bell with someone?? dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 1:25 PM To: 'healeys' Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. Anybody have any thoughts? Paul Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as frogeye@porterscustom.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 14:02:05 2009 From: Bob Johnson To: Editorgary@aol.com Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 16:01:36 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Click and Clack's staff I'm just sure that her name is Marge Inovera Bob Johnson BJ8 > > Gosh, can't you guys spell proper names: They are respectively statistician > Marge N. O'Vera and staff grammarian I.M. Shirley Wright. > > Can't you get that straight. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 14:02:18 2009 From: "Dave Porter" To: , , Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 14:01:45 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Pertronix ignition, wires and coil choice? Road dyno Makes a slick unit one can hook up run down the road and download for analysis. frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken) Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 1:52 PM To: Warthodson@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Pertronix ignition, wires and coil choice? Gary, good question. It's more or less a question of "feeling" and listening to the engine. Not as perfect as an hour or two on the dyno, but it beats the pants off conventional dizzys. If you're unsure about the curve just tune in the one the original one's supposed to have and enjoy the other features like spark balancing, automatic dwell control and driving without bad rotors, condensors, etc. Eric From: Warthodson To: eric.frenken@brits-n-pieces.com Sent: 1/30/2009 12:30:11 P.M. Central Standard Time Subj: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix ignition, wires and coil choice? If memory serves me right, the 123ignition distributor comes with "multiple choice" of advance curves. Other than a rolling road dyno, how does the average amateur Healey owner pick the best one? Gary In a message dated 1/30/2009 12:19:10 A.M. Central Standard Time, lists@brits-n-pieces.com writes: In case you want a reliable ignition system go for the complete dizzy or a 123ignition. Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as frogeye@porterscustom.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 14:15:33 2009 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: "'T W'" , "'Eric \(Rick\) Wilkins'" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:14:36 +1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs G'day Not quite correct. Only BN6s fitted with disc wheels will have ball type front wheel bearings. Ball type bearings were used on the BN1 and six-cylinder Austin-Healeys fitted with disc wheels. It is possible to convert them, but you will have to do a little machineing and shopping around for the right size taper roller bearings. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (fitted with disc wheels) On Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 11:01 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. > > Wilko > > > On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: > >> Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for >> disc >> wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer >> bearing >> is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the >> later >> bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they >> cannot be >> fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Windows Live : E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. >> > http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_0120 0 >> >> 9 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as e-wilkins@cox.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ah3000me@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as p_cquinn@tpg.com.au http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 14:30:52 2009 From: "Taylor, Todd S" To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn , T W Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2009 16:28:53 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs Do you have to replace the front bearings if you want to convert a 100-6 to disc brakes?? Or what do you have to replace to convert drum to disc?? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 4:15 PM To: 'T W'; 'Eric (Rick) Wilkins' Cc: 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs G'day Not quite correct. Only BN6s fitted with disc wheels will have ball type front wheel bearings. Ball type bearings were used on the BN1 and six-cylinder Austin-Healeys fitted with disc wheels. It is possible to convert them, but you will have to do a little machineing and shopping around for the right size taper roller bearings. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (fitted with disc wheels) On Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 11:01 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. > > Wilko > > > On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: > >> Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for >> disc >> wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer >> bearing >> is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the >> later >> bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they >> cannot be >> fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Windows Live : E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. >> > http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_ 0120 0 >> >> 9 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as e-wilkins@cox.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ah3000me@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as p_cquinn@tpg.com.au http://www.team.net/archive Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as todd.s.taylor@lmco.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 14:35:22 2009 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: "'Taylor, Todd S'" , "'T W'" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:34:41 +1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs G'day No you don't, but it might be easier. Remember the disc wheel fitted 3000s also had front disc brakes as did the many BMC big sedans that also had front disc brakes. However they are probably easier to find in this part of the world than yours. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Taylor, Todd S [mailto:todd.s.taylor@lmco.com] Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 8:29 AM To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn; T W; Eric (Rick) Wilkins Cc: healeys Subject: RE: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs Do you have to replace the front bearings if you want to convert a 100-6 to disc brakes?? Or what do you have to replace to convert drum to disc?? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 4:15 PM To: 'T W'; 'Eric (Rick) Wilkins' Cc: 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front hubs G'day Not quite correct. Only BN6s fitted with disc wheels will have ball type front wheel bearings. Ball type bearings were used on the BN1 and six-cylinder Austin-Healeys fitted with disc wheels. It is possible to convert them, but you will have to do a little machineing and shopping around for the right size taper roller bearings. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (fitted with disc wheels) On Sun, Feb 1, 2009 at 11:01 PM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > BN6s have ball bearings and the later bearing don't fit. > > Wilko > > > On Feb 1, 2009, at 5:59 PM, richard mayor wrote: > >> Greetings Listmates, I thought I had a pair of 100-6 front hubs for >> disc >> wheels. In trying to disassemble the hub I discovered that the outer >> bearing >> is full of ball bearings, not the Timken tapered bearings. Can the >> later >> bearings be fitted to these hubs? Are they worth anything if they >> cannot be >> fitted with the later bearings? Thanks, Richard >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Windows Live : E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. >> > http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_ 0120 0 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 15:30:12 2009 From: "Ed's Shop" To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" , "SPM@autoX" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 16:29:37 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Holy SMOKES !!! HeeHee. Didn't sell at $21,000.00. Wonder what the reserve is?!?! How soon will it be re-listed (this was the 3rd)?? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 15:31:04 2009 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" , "SPM@autoX" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 14:29:29 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Click and Clack's staff What the heck!? You must be some kind of editor or something. ;) I just pulled the name out of my clouded memory. I've never seen the names in print--only heard them on my car radio. According to their website, we're both wrong. Statistician Marge Innovera Here's the edited staff list (whole list is too long for this mail list): Car Talk's Official Staff Credits Accounts Payable Administrator Imelda Czechs Air-Quality Monitor Carmine Dioxide Appeals Specialist Bud Uronner Appetizer Coordinator Barbara Ganush Appointment Secretary Stu Earley Appointment Secretary II Amadeus O. Early Assertiveness Training Coach Lois Steem Assistant Customer Care Representive Kurt Reply Assistant Director of Moral Support Hugo Gurll Assistant to our Make Up Artist Gladys Radio Assistant Director of Strategic Planning Kent C. Detrees Assistant Disciplinarian Joaquin D'Planque Asst. Fleet Manager Lisa Carr Attorney General Janet Torino Auto-Body Expert James Bondo Automotive Finishes Consultant Rusty Steele Automotive Medical Researcher Dr. Denton Fender Automotive Registrar Megan Model Bean Counter Ed Amame Bolt Tightener Tilda Plierslip Bunji Jumping Instructor Hugo First Broadcast Philosopher Phillip Airtime Caffeine Addiction Counselor Bruno Moore Chief Accountant Candace B. Rittenoff Chief Benefactor Myra Chunkle Chief Cook and Bottle Washer Chef Boyar Ubusy Chief Estimator Edward James Almost Chief Information Officer Otto Delupe Chief Justice Harry Mental, aka Judge Mental Chief Legal Counsel Hugh Louis Dewey of Dewey, Cheetham & Howe Chief Negotiator Bernadette Bridge Chief of Stadium Seating for the Olympics Wayne Back Chief Procrastinator Juan Menudo _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 16:36:25 2009 From: "Fred Crowley" To: "healeys" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 17:35:18 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I've been using an electric fan on my race Healey for many years. Gives a me an extra 29.016532 HP, substantially improved the handling, tire wear, brake wear, and I never break any spokes. Oooops, almost forgot. It really does help on cooling (compared to the fan), especially racing down here in the wonderful Republic of Texas. Another point (even tho' I've been told it's impolite to point), is that if you do sorta', kinda', not really on purpose of course, and entirely due to someone else's fault, scrunch (a techie race term) the front you don't end up with the fan in the radiator. Cheers, Fred Team Healey Texas > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG > Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 12:25 PM > To: 'healeys' > Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the > installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive > fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. > > > > They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley > creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden > on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. > > > > Anybody have any thoughts? > > > > Paul _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 16:47:06 2009 From: "Ron Davies" To: "'Healey list'" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 15:46:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] SoCal members interest only- others may delete Cars and Coffee in Irvine at the Ford Premier Auto Group, which replaced the Newport Beach Crystal Cove show, has finally limited attendance in the main lot (holds 500) to pre 1978 cars!! Exceptions for rare modern cars will be made on a case by case basis if approved in advance by Freeman via email (don't have it). So if you have not been attending because of the huge numbers of "pimp my ride" Civics with $50k sound systems, now is the time to come on back. I'm told the final straw was a row of dealer cars for sale and a row of 2008 Evos. As a founding member of Crystal Cove I've always said: "If you bought it new and you're still making payments, it ain't a classic". Hope to see you Saturday if it isn't raining too badly (need new wipers). Ron Davies Laguna Hills 67 BJ8 97 DB7 (that can no longer go to C&C) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 17:06:43 2009 From: "Fred Crowley" To: Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 18:05:43 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I've been using an electric fan on my race Healey for many years. Gives a me an extra 29.016532 HP, substantially improved the handling, tire wear, brake wear, and I never break any spokes. Oooops, almost forgot. It really does help on cooling (compared to the fan), especially racing down here in the wonderful Republic of Texas. Another point (even tho' I've been told it's impolite to point), is that if you do sorta', kinda', not really on purpose of course, and entirely due to someone else's fault, scrunch (a techie race term) the front you don't end up with the fan in the radiator. Cheers, Fred Team Healey Texas _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 17:17:02 2009 From: "kaynmike.bham@juno.com" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 00:14:37 GMT Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 I was in here a few weeks ago on this ("blown head gasket") and got great suggestions. Have tried most all of them.ignition, fuel delivery, timing, etc. On a whim I tested the compression. 132, 128, 24 and 22. so 3 and 4 have suffered some With the cover off, the valve train appears to be ok. Also checked torque (cold) all ok. I'm hoping (now) for the gasket to be actually blown. Any ideas? Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 17:23:23 2009 From: Oudesluys To: PG Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 01:22:38 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Paul, The gain in power is solely due to the fact that the original fan on the waterpump is removed and not taking up any power. At normal speed the electric fan does (should) not come one as the speed of the car will generate enough flow through the radiator to keep the temperature in check. I shoulod only come one when the car is under extreme load at low speed or at idling when speed (and air flow through the radiator) is zero. The amount of power gained depends on the design of the fan and the engine speed. Generally up to about 6BHP. Kees Oudesluijs NL PG schreef: > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the > installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) > has increased their Power by about 7%. > > > > They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates > a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the > Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. > > > > Anybody have any thoughts? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 17:33:55 2009 From: Awgertoo@aol.com To: kaynmike.bham@juno.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:33:12 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 In a message dated 2/2/2009 7:16:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, kaynmike.bham@juno.com writes: Any ideas? Sure sounds like a blown gasket between 3 and 4. A leakdown test would be pretty definitive but ultimately you are going to have to pull the head anyway to resolve whatever the issue might be. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 17:40:23 2009 From: Awgertoo@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:39:34 EST Subject: [Healeys] Email problem Beginning a year or so ago I stopped seeing copies of my own email posts to this list. I seem to get everyone else's posts to the list, including responses to posts that I make so I know mine are going through. The usual explanation is that " It's an AOL thing" and I am wondering if any subscribers who use AOL get copies of their own posts, etc. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 17:41:23 2009 From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 16:40:53 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] batteries Herb: No. I actually get between 17 and 18 MPG overall, tank full to tank full over time with general driving. On long hauls on the Interstate, I can get up to 25 MPG. The figures I used were based upon my record book. I was trying to keep my e-mail short so I generalized over my 39 years of ownership. I used some fuzzy math. I did not take into consideration that the first two owners drove the car 14,000 before I bought it. Nor did I consider that when I bought the car in 1970, I was paying 27 cents a gallon and not sure if I even had the option of other octanes. I calculated the other way: 178,000 miles / 17 = 10, 470 gallons X .20 = $2,094. I can't find my worksheet for my original calculations but it looks like I either rounded up to the next thousand or used some other figures. Is that fuzzy enough for you? ;-) The whole point of the exercise was to criticize and hold in contempt those who say their Healeys will not run on anything but 200 octane (oops! fuzzy figures again) gasoline sold by XYZ oil company. I was attempting to say that my Healey does not NEED a higher octane at a higher price and therefore, IN MY OPINION (and my OPINION can never be wrong), it is economically foolish to waste the money. I know that others disagree with me. It's their money, they can spend it as they wish. (I wish there was an emoticon for 'tongue in cheek'. ? ) (I am not a complete idiot. Some parts are missing) (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Herbert Miller" To: "'Len and/or Marge Hartnett'" ; "'Healey Mail List'" Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 10:10 AM Subject: RE: [Healeys] batteries > Let's see: > 3,000/.2=15,000 > 178,000/15,000=11.87 > > You get 11.87 miles per gallon with your Healey? > > Herb _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 17:53:29 2009 From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com To: Awgertoo@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:52:35 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] Email problem I never seem to have a problem but we will see if this email is posted Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 17:55:34 2009 From: Awgertoo@aol.com To: Jwhlyadv@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:54:56 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] Email problem In a message dated 2/2/2009 7:52:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Jwhlyadv writes: I never seem to have a problem but we will see if this email is posted Jim-- I see posts from you, plus several AOL users have just advised me they have no problems. Perhaps it is my breath..... Best--Michael **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 17:57:27 2009 From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com To: Awgertoo@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:56:50 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] Email problem You must have done something to upset the major.domo. Probably when you bought the Elva....... Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 17:57:43 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: "kaynmike.bham@juno.com" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:57:17 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 Mike - Taking a head off the 100 is a really easy job. I could probably have the head off in an hour. 5 min drain the radiator, 10 min remove the carbs (4 nuts, 1 cable), 5 min remove the manifolds, and about 15 min to remove the head, and another 25 minutes for puttering about. It's not a difficult job and can be done in a morning or afternoon, your choice. Take the head off, and check the gasket. If it's fried, get a new one, If not, then take the head to a machine shop and have them crack test the head. If it's not cracked, check the valves and make sure their aren't sticking open (did you install bronze valve guides possibly - if so these have a nasty tendency to stick open?). Any way you cut it the head needs to come off. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 8:14 AM, kaynmike.bham@juno.com < kaynmike.bham@juno.com> wrote: > I was in here a few weeks ago on this ("blown head gasket") and got great > suggestions. Have tried most all of them.ignition, fuel delivery, timing, > etc. > On a whim I tested the compression. 132, 128, 24 and 22. so 3 and 4 have > suffered some With the cover off, the valve train appears to be ok. Also > checked torque (cold) all ok. I'm hoping (now) for the gasket to be > actually > blown. Any ideas? > Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 17:58:47 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: "kaynmike.bham@juno.com" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:58:16 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 While you are at it, have the head set up to run on unleaded. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 8:57 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Mike - > > Taking a head off the 100 is a really easy job. I could probably have the > head off in an hour. 5 min drain the radiator, 10 min remove the carbs (4 > nuts, 1 cable), 5 min remove the manifolds, and about 15 min to remove the > head, and another 25 minutes for puttering about. It's not a difficult job > and can be done in a morning or afternoon, your choice. > > Take the head off, and check the gasket. If it's fried, get a new one, If > not, then take the head to a machine shop and have them crack test the head. > If it's not cracked, check the valves and make sure their aren't sticking > open (did you install bronze valve guides possibly - if so these have a > nasty tendency to stick open?). > > Any way you cut it the head needs to come off. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 18:00:32 2009 From: Awgertoo@aol.com To: Jwhlyadv@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 19:59:58 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] Email problem In a message dated 2/2/2009 7:56:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Jwhlyadv writes: You must have done something to upset the major.domo. Probably when you bought the Elva....... Yes, that's probably it. BTW I have been through my subscription settings and amongst other options the one for me to receive copies was selected--nevertheless I resubmitted it so maybe things will clear up. I'll know in a minute.... Best--Michael **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 18:00:46 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Awgertoo@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:00:18 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Email problem Simple - switch to Gmail for the list. Love my Gmail, and you can POP3 it to your computer for no charge. No hate mail Ed, thanks. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 8:39 AM, wrote: > Beginning a year or so ago I stopped seeing copies of my own email posts to > this list. I seem to get everyone else's posts to the list, including > responses to posts that I make so I know mine are going through. > > The usual explanation is that " It's an AOL thing" and I am wondering if > any > subscribers who use AOL get copies of their own posts, etc. > > Best--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 18:04:24 2009 From: "Rich C" To: , Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 20:04:00 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 I'd bet you have a chunk of head hasket blown out between 3 and 4 bores. When the head comes off, have both the head and the deck checked for truth. I've seen this problem on more than one Hundred, where the head had been made dead true, but nobody checked the deck of the block....equally important. A good friend replaced his head gasket and made sure the head was flat 3 times in 26000 miles. Then we pulled the engine down and checked the deck and found it to be .0035" thou dished. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 7:14 PM Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 >I was in here a few weeks ago on this ("blown head gasket") and got great > suggestions. Have tried most all of them.ignition, fuel delivery, timing, > etc. > On a whim I tested the compression. 132, 128, 24 and 22. so 3 and 4 have > suffered some With the cover off, the valve train appears to be ok. Also > checked torque (cold) all ok. I'm hoping (now) for the gasket to be > actually > blown. Any ideas? > Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler@quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 18:10:07 2009 From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com To: Awgertoo@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 20:09:32 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] Email problem Since we are off topic anyway - check this out. A guy goes to a house to install new windows. Calls one of our fellow Healey owners and tells him "this lady has one of those old sports cars in her back yard like you collect and wants rid of it" Not knowing what it is they are talking about but intrigued none the less he goes out to look at it. Turns out to be this: _Welcome to the history of 1958 Maserati 3500 GT 101.078_ (http://www.maserati3500.com/) These thing never happen to me...... Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 18:21:51 2009 From: "Dave Porter" To: , Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 18:20:53 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 The fact that you still have some compression in those two holes is indicative of the gasket failing between the two bore holes. With all the plugs out and the engine turning over it will try to compress both holes at the same time. Just put your fingers over the plug holes to confirm. This is very common on the 100 engine. Order a new gasket.. frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kaynmike.bham@juno.com Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 5:15 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 I was in here a few weeks ago on this ("blown head gasket") and got great suggestions. Have tried most all of them.ignition, fuel delivery, timing, etc. On a whim I tested the compression. 132, 128, 24 and 22. so 3 and 4 have suffered some With the cover off, the valve train appears to be ok. Also checked torque (cold) all ok. I'm hoping (now) for the gasket to be actually blown. Any ideas? Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as frogeye@porterscustom.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 18:23:46 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Jwhlyadv@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:23:12 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Email problem If you can believe it, a 3500GT Spider was available for sale in the Safeway parking lot near my house in Walnut Creek in 1983. It was sitting in the parking lot with a "for sale" sign. Top was down and completely open so I sat in it and popped the hood - completely looked the thing over. No one worried about vandals then. The guy wanted about $10,000 for it, was in very good running condition and no rust, but paint was a little faded (Maserati dark blue). Daytonas were selling for around $30K at the time. I remember thinking the thing must've been a straight 12 because it had 12 spark plug wires! I couldn't quite figure out how to pay for it and settled on paying $3,000 for my BJ8 instead.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 9:09 AM, wrote: > Since we are off topic anyway - check this out. > > A guy goes to a house to install new windows. Calls one of our fellow > Healey > owners and tells him "this lady has one of those old sports cars in her > back > yard like you collect and wants rid of it" > > Not knowing what it is they are talking about but intrigued none the less > he > goes out to look at it. > > Turns out to be this: > > _Welcome to the history of 1958 Maserati 3500 GT 101.078_ > (http://www.maserati3500.com/) > > These thing never happen to me...... > > Jim Werner > Louisville, KY > **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. > ( > http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. > net/clk;211531132;33070124;e > ) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 18:37:53 2009 From: Steven Mickelson To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 17:37:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 Sorry...missed the responses from a few weeks ago, but before you pull the head you should squirt some oil in #3 and #4 cylinders and recheck the compression. That might tell you if it could be rings or valves (or both or other). ________________________________ From: kaynmike.bham@juno.com I was in here a few weeks ago on this ("blown head gasket") and got great suggestions. Have tried most all of them.ignition, fuel delivery, timing, etc. On a whim I tested the compression. 132, 128, 24 and 22. so 3 and 4 have suffered some With the cover off, the valve train appears to be ok. Also checked torque (cold) all ok. I'm hoping (now) for the gasket to be actually blown. Any ideas? Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 18:40:54 2009 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: "'healeys'" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 20:40:28 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I recall reading a book by LJK Setright on the history of Bristol cars, that the engineers there found the fan/waterpump accounted for about 5 HP, which sounds in line with what you mention. Mirek ----- Original Message ----- From: "PG" To: "'healeys'" Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 3:25 PM Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the > installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive > fan) > has increased their Power by about 7%. > > > > They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley > creates > a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the > Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. > > > > Anybody have any thoughts? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp@sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 18:50:05 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Mirek Sharp Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:49:27 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive A few years ago when I put an electric fan on my BJ8, it was horrible and reduced the cooling capacity over the fan (the pancake motor blocked too much of the radiator). The newer fans have much higher CFMS (and I do believe make a big difference) - provided you get a good quality fan. I recently installed a 11" Spal fan on my Austin A90 and I can tell you the thing is crackers for keeping the car cool in Hong Kong, which is very very hot. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 9:40 AM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > I recall reading a book by LJK Setright on the history of Bristol cars, > that the engineers there found the fan/waterpump accounted for about 5 HP, > which sounds in line with what you mention. > > Mirek > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "PG" > To: "'healeys'" > Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 3:25 PM > Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the >> installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive >> fan) >> has increased their Power by about 7%. >> >> >> >> They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley >> creates >> a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the >> Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. >> >> >> >> Anybody have any thoughts? >> >> >> >> Paul >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as m.g.sharp@sympatico.ca >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 19:53:07 2009 From: "Michael Salter" To: "'PG'" , "'healeys'" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 21:52:05 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive For the fan to absorb 7% of the engine's power that 7% say 10 BHP would have to be driven by the single "A" sectopm "V" belt.. The last time I looked it usually takes a pair of "A" section belts to drive 1/2 a horsepower!! Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: February 2, 2009 3:25 PM To: 'healeys' Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. Anybody have any thoughts? Paul _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 20:00:59 2009 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: "'Michael Salter'" , "'PG'" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 14:00:16 +1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive G'day Mike This is an interesting thread. The Australian company called Davis, Craig invented the thermatic fan many years back. Now they have an electric water pump that controls the amount of coolant flow, that when linked to an electric fan eliminates any power drain whatsoever. The electric pump is plumbed into the inlet hose and you do away with the thermostat and the water pump impeller. That is what you would do for a simple installation to an Austin-Healey, but in modern cars such as the Corvette that has it fitted there isn't a mechanical water pump or body at all. Have a look at www.daviescraig.com.au if you want to know more. Of course I am on a ridiculously high commission for every electric water pump sold. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia (Where it's 95 F today) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 1:52 PM To: 'PG'; 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive For the fan to absorb 7% of the engine's power that 7% say 10 BHP would have to be driven by the single "A" sectopm "V" belt.. The last time I looked it usually takes a pair of "A" section belts to drive 1/2 a horsepower!! Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: February 2, 2009 3:25 PM To: 'healeys' Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) has increased their Power by about 7%. They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. Anybody have any thoughts? Paul _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 21:51:17 2009 From: Jackson Krall To: 'healeys' Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 20:50:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Which brings me in to ask: What about a fan w/clutch? Anyone tried that? Of course not to circumvent any persons commission JK --- On Mon, 2/2/09, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Have a look at www.daviescraig.com.au if you want to know > more. > > Of course I am on a ridiculously high commission for every > electric water > pump sold. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > (Where it's 95 F today) > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Michael Salter > Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 1:52 PM > To: 'PG'; 'healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > For the fan to absorb 7% of the engine's power that 7% > say 10 BHP would have > to be driven by the single "A" sectopm > "V" belt.. > The last time I looked it usually takes a pair of > "A" section belts to drive > 1/2 a horsepower!! > > Michael Salter > 100 (1953) #174 > AHX12 (1953) > Bugeye (1961) > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of PG > Sent: February 2, 2009 3:25 PM > To: 'healeys' > Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have > claimed that the > installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of > belt drive fan) > has increased their Power by about 7%. > > > > They claim that the drag created by the fan on the > waterpump pulley creates > a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the > burden on the > Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. > > > > Anybody have any thoughts? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall@yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 2 23:38:35 2009 From: "kaynmike.bham@juno.com" To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 06:35:51 GMT Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 Thanks for all replies.Shop is backed up, so space for the car is limited-work will commence in 12-14 days. Yes, head will be off as first step. Do I understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 and 4 a new gasket is all that would be required, whereas if the gasket were intact I should look further afield? (Warped/cracked head or uneven deck?) Will verify the operation of the valves. Do I need new bolts/nuts? Last time I had this head off, someone said "DO NOT retork" while others said ..."a MUST @ 500 miles." What's a cabinetmaker to do? Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 00:07:16 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: "kaynmike.bham@juno.com" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:06:20 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 I believe you will find the gasket broken. If so, replace. If it breaks again, take the motor out and have the top of the block flattened. On the 100 you definitely want to retorque the head after 500 miles. You will likely find one or two nuts a bit loose, which causes oil leakage. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 2:35 PM, kaynmike.bham@juno.com < kaynmike.bham@juno.com> wrote: > Thanks for all replies.Shop is backed up, so space for the car is > limited-work > will commence in 12-14 days. Yes, head will be off as first step. Do I > understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 and 4 a > new > gasket is all that would be required, whereas if the gasket were intact I > should look further afield? (Warped/cracked head or uneven deck?) Will > verify > the operation of the valves. Do I need new bolts/nuts? Last time I had this > head off, someone said "DO NOT retork" while others said ..."a MUST @ 500 > miles." What's a cabinetmaker to do? > Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 00:33:07 2009 From: "Rod Shepherd" To: , Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:31:31 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 Mike, Head Gasket blowing between cylinders 3 and 4 appears to be the usual occurrence. I strongly suggest a straight-edge check of block and the head in that area. If you have not replaced the head bolts then I also would replace them and retorque the head after 100 miles or so, and do it when hot. Rod Shepherd. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kaynmike.bham@juno.com Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 4:36 PM To: Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] no compression 100 Thanks for all replies.Shop is backed up, so space for the car is limited-work will commence in 12-14 days. Yes, head will be off as first step. Do I understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 and 4 a new gasket is all that would be required, whereas if the gasket were intact I should look further afield? (Warped/cracked head or uneven deck?) Will verify the operation of the valves. Do I need new bolts/nuts? Last time I had this head off, someone said "DO NOT retork" while others said ..."a MUST @ 500 miles." What's a cabinetmaker to do? Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as rodshepherd@optusnet.com.au http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 01:37:22 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 09:36:25 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive The electric waterpump is constantly running and needs power which is supplied by the engine. So you would not gain much if any. The only advantage may be a better design and thus more efficient. The fan is a different story as it not running most of the time. Kees Oudesluijs Patrick and Caroline Quinn schreef: > G'day Mike > > This is an interesting thread. > > The Australian company called Davis, Craig invented the thermatic fan many > years back. Now they have an electric water pump that controls the amount of > coolant flow, that when linked to an electric fan eliminates any power drain > whatsoever. > > The electric pump is plumbed into the inlet hose and you do away with the > thermostat and the water pump impeller. That is what you would do for a > simple installation to an Austin-Healey, but in modern cars such as the > Corvette that has it fitted there isn't a mechanical water pump or body at > all. > > Have a look at www.daviescraig.com.au if you want to know more. > > Of course I am on a ridiculously high commission for every electric water > pump sold. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > (Where it's 95 F today) > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Michael Salter > Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 1:52 PM > To: 'PG'; 'healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > For the fan to absorb 7% of the engine's power that 7% say 10 BHP would have > to be driven by the single "A" sectopm "V" belt.. > The last time I looked it usually takes a pair of "A" section belts to drive > 1/2 a horsepower!! > > Michael Salter > 100 (1953) #174 > AHX12 (1953) > Bugeye (1961) > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of PG > Sent: February 2, 2009 3:25 PM > To: 'healeys' > Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > I'm also on a Triumph forum where a few people have claimed that the > installation of an electric cooling fan (and elimination of belt drive fan) > has increased their Power by about 7%. > > > > They claim that the drag created by the fan on the waterpump pulley creates > a power loss that is more than the power loss due to the burden on the > Alternator/generator created by the electric fan. > > > > Anybody have any thoughts? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 01:58:21 2009 From: John Harper To: Alan Seigrist Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:56:15 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 Alan I have a different point of view on this subject. One which might well start a new debate. Something like 20 years ago there was a great panic amongst UK users of older cars when leaded fuel was being withdrawn. Many owners of 100s asked me what they should do and my suggestion was; do nothing. Around that time the Vintage Sports Car Club published a 25 page document which was the result of significant testing that they had carried out on older engines. It was titled Valve Seat Recession Use of Unleaded Gasoline in Older Engines It was very comprehensive but the conclusion was that for low compression, medium tuned engines such at the 100 the recession due to the lack of lead on the valve seat was likely to be virtually non existent. Based on this many 100s that I know are still running around without changing valve seats without problems 20 years later. Now to this I can add another point. As we know the 100 head is very prone to cracking across valve seats. One owner I know added seats to a perfectly good head but soon found the a fatal crack had appeared beyond the valve insert. The conclusion was that as the seat has to fitted by interference fit, the extra pressure had caused the crack. My final point is that if one does get seat recession then all that is happening is that the part of the head that is being ground away would have to be cut away later when fitting a seat; so why bother. Regards >While you are at it, have the head set up to run on unleaded. > -- John Harper _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 02:06:01 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: John Harper Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:05:24 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 John - As always, sage advice. Wasn't sure about the 100, but given your thoughts on cracking, that makes good sense. Actually, on the A90 I didn't put in the unleaded seats on my rebuild - my feeling was that a 6.9:1 compression and single springs on the valves meant that the chance of valve seat recession on the old girl was basically nil. I did, however, put in new exhaust valves and I still toss in some lead substitute from time to time. That being said, with the BJ8 running pretty high compression and higher revs.... I am contemplating otherwise.... ? I will be doing a complete rebuild on it. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 4:56 PM, John Harper wrote: > > Alan > > I have a different point of view on this subject. One which might well > start a new debate. > > Something like 20 years ago there was a great panic amongst UK users of > older cars when leaded fuel was being withdrawn. Many owners of 100s asked > me what they should do and my suggestion was; do nothing. > > Around that time the Vintage Sports Car Club published a 25 page document > which was the result of significant testing that they had carried out on > older engines. > > It was titled > > Valve Seat Recession > Use of Unleaded Gasoline in Older Engines > > It was very comprehensive but the conclusion was that for low compression, > medium tuned engines such at the 100 the recession due to the lack of lead > on the valve seat was likely to be virtually non existent. > > Based on this many 100s that I know are still running around without > changing valve seats without problems 20 years later. > > Now to this I can add another point. As we know the 100 head is very prone > to cracking across valve seats. One owner I know added seats to a perfectly > good head but soon found the a fatal crack had appeared beyond the valve > insert. The conclusion was that as the seat has to fitted by interference > fit, the extra pressure had caused the crack. > > My final point is that if one does get seat recession then all that is > happening is that the part of the head that is being ground away would have > to be cut away later when fitting a seat; so why bother. > > Regards _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 02:23:52 2009 From: Oudesluys To: John Harper Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 10:22:36 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 Alans story is quite correct. It mainly was a scare, which resulted in a lot of extra bussines for the trade, however there were some cars that used inferior cast iron for the heads that were prone to the dreaded valve seat recession, from my mind one was Ford Germany. Thousands of cars were "converted" to lead free or LPG (even worse, hotter) unneccesarily. Another example being old Landrovers. Just leave well alone (if it ain't broke, don't fix it). The cracking of the head due to retrofitting of valve seats inserts is not unique to the Healey's. In the unlikely event that valve seat recession shows it it is early enough to take steps. I have an old Landrover SIII that has been running on LPG from new (1974), without any modification or trouble from the exhaust valves or seats. Kees Oudesluijs NL John Harper schreef: > Alan > > I have a different point of view on this subject. One which might well > start a new debate. > > Something like 20 years ago there was a great panic amongst UK users > of older cars when leaded fuel was being withdrawn. Many owners of > 100s asked me what they should do and my suggestion was; do nothing. > > Around that time the Vintage Sports Car Club published a 25 page > document which was the result of significant testing that they had > carried out on older engines. > > It was titled > > Valve Seat Recession > Use of Unleaded Gasoline in Older Engines > > It was very comprehensive but the conclusion was that for low > compression, medium tuned engines such at the 100 the recession due to > the lack of lead on the valve seat was likely to be virtually non > existent. > > Based on this many 100s that I know are still running around without > changing valve seats without problems 20 years later. > > Now to this I can add another point. As we know the 100 head is very > prone to cracking across valve seats. One owner I know added seats to > a perfectly good head but soon found the a fatal crack had appeared > beyond the valve insert. The conclusion was that as the seat has to > fitted by interference fit, the extra pressure had caused the crack. > > My final point is that if one does get seat recession then all that is > happening is that the part of the head that is being ground away would > have to be cut away later when fitting a seat; so why bother. > > Regards > > >> While you are at it, have the head set up to run on unleaded. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 02:34:35 2009 From: "Ed's Shop" To: Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 03:33:58 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 <> Your 'different' point of view is not far off the mark John, IMHO. AND, please LORD even tho it IS 'sleeping time for majority of Healeys' I HOPE not!! LOL And be quite, Patrick!! There have been a LOT of 'studies' John, like the one you refer to with the same conclusion(s) up to and including OLD Small Block Chevy motors (like the one in my '70 Camino). The "results" all were in the area of the fact that our motors have absorbed/retained 'lead' to the point that Valve Seat Recession is just not going to occur. YMMV & FWIW & blah-blah-blah!!!! !! Ed PS: Oh wait; my current daily driver '70 El Camino (Pics on my site in "Spec. People & Spec. Cars" has just shy of 600 BHP at rear wheels and I don't recall if valve seat were done!?!?!?! _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 02:41:42 2009 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: "'Oudesluys'" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 20:40:32 +1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive G'day Now I am really confused. Perhaps someone can explain to me in words of one syllable why a variable speed 12v electric motor, in the place of a water pump does not free up power? Sure the electricity has to come from the generator/alternator/battery but I know that my car goes just as well with the lights on as it does with them off. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl] Sent: Tuesday, 3 February 2009 7:36 PM To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Cc: 'Michael Salter'; 'PG'; 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive The electric waterpump is constantly running and needs power which is supplied by the engine. So you would not gain much if any. The only advantage may be a better design and thus more efficient. The fan is a different story as it not running most of the time. Kees Oudesluijs Patrick and Caroline Quinn schreef: > G'day Mike > > This is an interesting thread. > > The Australian company called Davis, Craig invented the thermatic fan many > years back. Now they have an electric water pump that controls the amount of > coolant flow, that when linked to an electric fan eliminates any power drain > whatsoever. > > The electric pump is plumbed into the inlet hose and you do away with the > thermostat and the water pump impeller. That is what you would do for a > simple installation to an Austin-Healey, but in modern cars such as the > Corvette that has it fitted there isn't a mechanical water pump or body at > all. > > Have a look at www.daviescraig.com.au if you want to know more. > > Of course I am on a ridiculously high commission for every electric water > pump sold. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > (Where it's 95 F today) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 03:21:23 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 11:20:34 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive A water pump and a mechanical fan need a fair amount of power to be driven. They are not perpetu|m mobilae, so that power needs to come from somewhere: ultimately the engine, and it does not make any difference if that is through the alternator/dynamo and battery. So the power needed for the alternator that will feed the battery and powers the water pump will not be available to drive the wheels. Simple mathematics. Kees Oudesluijs _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 04:50:58 2009 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 06:50:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Paint question What is the consensus of painting over polyurethane with base coat clear coat , after some initial sanding and panel leveling. My painter wants to spray all body panels( inside and out) off the car with polyurethane. Then sand down the exterior sides of the panels ( after they are installed on the car), do the panel leveling(putty work) and then shoot them with base/clear coat after they are all smooth and level. He feels that the poly will give them good sight at the panel leveling that needs to be done. I am just a bit leery of putting the base/clear over the poly. But then, I am not a painter. Never used this guy before and just want to make the right paint job call. Thanks for any comments, Mark _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 05:56:22 2009 From: "Dave Porter" To: Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 05:55:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: no compression 100 Guys, I've posted a picture of this at http://porterbikes.com/ As to John's discussion (below) let me say this.. Before the introduction of unleaded fuel, I could pretty much be assured that on any given week I'd be doing at least one valve job. It was any shops best bread and butter repair. Ah, since unleaded, I might do a valve job once or twice a year! And they are usually unrelated to the fuel issue. So, while valve seat recession is still possible, it hasn't proven to be the fault that was predicted. The symptoms stated in the e-mail do not reflect a cracked head either. Most of those problems are seen as very slight seepage through the head to the rocker deck and I've never seen one that causes dramatic compression losses. As a helpful hint to all. Any time your engine falls on its nose, save a rod through the block, duh, check the compression first! It's so basic it's often overlooked. You can see what is the state of combustion in each cylinder instantly and quickly deduce all sorts of possibilities..IMHO Dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ 100s that I know are still running around without changing valve seats without problems 20 years later. Now to this I can add another point. As we know the 100 head is very prone to cracking across valve seats. One owner I know added seats to a perfectly good head but soon found the a fatal crack had appeared beyond the valve insert. The conclusion was that as the seat has to fitted by interference fit, the extra pressure had caused the crack. My final point is that if one does get seat recession then all that is happening is that the part of the head that is being ground away would have to be cut away later when fitting a seat; so why bother. Regards _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 06:05:20 2009 From: Awgertoo@aol.com To: kaynmike.bham@juno.com, Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:04:36 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 In a message dated 2/3/2009 1:38:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, kaynmike.bham@juno.com writes: Do I understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 and 4 a new gasket is all that would be required, ------------------------------------------- Mike-- If the gasket blew it did so for a reason. You'll need to check both the head and deck for flatness. Also check the studs to see if they are stretched, bent, worn, etc. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 06:23:09 2009 From: Carroll A Phillips To: healey list Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 08:22:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] re paint question Mark, Depends on whats underneath your paint now, how thick, other coats(types of paint) ,extensive body work? surface rust underneath that due to poor prep? I personally would not keep overcoating layers, and if Im reading your post correctly, would NOT paint an extra layer to see what needs to be sanded, filled then another top coat of 4 more layers base/clear. Seems to me someone needs to asses your current sheetmetal condition first,then make a decision, possibly a monetary one ($$$) on how far down you want to go,and level of body/paintwork. There are excellent writeups of the first steps recently done in the Austin Healey Magazine By Roger Moment and Gary Anderson Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 06:41:44 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Awgertoo@aol.com Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 14:40:51 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 You do not! It could be that that is all that is needed, but you have to investigate if a warped head or block may be the cause. When the head is removed, check that both the head and the block are absolutely true. Best to have both surfaces machined / skimmed as it is likely that the head has been removed and the head gasket replaced a number of times during the last 40/50 years, which makes warping of one or the other quite likely. Kees Oudesluijs NL Awgertoo@aol.com schreef: > In a message dated 2/3/2009 1:38:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > kaynmike.bham@juno.com writes: > > Do I understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 and 4 > a new > gasket is all that would be required, > ------------------------------------------- > Mike-- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 06:55:41 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Oudesluys Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:54:59 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 A word of caution here - Skimming the block and head on a 100 is only advisable as a last resort. The water jacket interface between the head and block are cut at an angle, this means if you skim the block too much the water holes start moving out of alignment with the gasket and head. Not a huge issue but if you intend to keep your car for a lifetime, skim the block only as a last resort. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 9:40 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > You do not! > It could be that that is all that is needed, but you have to investigate if > a warped head or block may be the cause. > When the head is removed, check that both the head and the block are > absolutely true. Best to have both surfaces machined / skimmed as it is > likely that the head has been removed and the head gasket replaced a number > of times during the last 40/50 years, which makes warping of one or the > other quite likely. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 08:27:47 2009 From: John Harper To: Alan Seigrist Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 14:08:53 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 I fully agree with Alan and will also add that if anything significant is skimmed from the top of the block then you need to check the clearances of the pistons when at Top Dead Centre. With a standard head gasket you should be able to get away with a few thou. of piston top being proud of the block but any more and you need to check that the piston will not get too close to the centre of the head's heart shape. Compression Ratio will be increased when either the block or head are skimmed so it is best to take off as little metal as possible Regards >A word of caution here - > >Skimming the block and head on a 100 is only advisable as a last resort. >The water jacket interface between the head and block are cut at an angle, >this means if you skim the block too much the water holes start moving out >of alignment with the gasket and head. Not a huge issue but if you intend >to keep your car for a lifetime, skim the block only as a last resort. > >Alan > >'52 A90 >'53 BN1 >'64 BJ8 > > -- John Harper _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 08:32:21 2009 From: "Dan Stromquist" To: Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:30:50 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint question My paint shop used polyurethane without a clear coat finish and it came out with a perfect finish-as good as the surface on any new car today I would say. I cannot understand for the life of me, after looking at the finish on my car, why you would need the clear coat. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 5:50 AM To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Paint question What is the consensus of painting over polyurethane with base coat clear coat , after some initial sanding and panel leveling. My painter wants to spray all body panels( inside and out) off the car with polyurethane. Then sand down the exterior sides of the panels ( after they are installed on the car), do the panel leveling(putty work) and then shoot them with base/clear coat after they are all smooth and level. He feels that the poly will give them good sight at the panel leveling that needs to be done. I am just a bit leery of putting the base/clear over the poly. But then, I am not a painter. Never used this guy before and just want to make the right paint job call. Thanks for any comments, Mark Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dan@warner-associates.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 09:31:14 2009 From: Jorge Garcia To: Austin Healey Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:28:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation I purchased a gear reduction starter from British Starters and I tried fitting it to the bell housing and found that if I lined up the bolt holes the starter would hit the scuttle or the frame rails. Is there a proper way to clock the starter so it will fit? In previous posts to the list some of you mentioned having to shim the starter in order to get a proper fit. Couls you explain what exactly did you shim and what was used as shims? Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 09:35:43 2009 From: Jorge Garcia To: Austin Healey Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:34:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] degreaser I want to remove years of caked up grease from the side of the engine block and the frame rails before installing the new starter can you recommend a strong degreaser that I can brush on to soften up the grease and then I can scrape off? I've heard of people using Easy Off oven cleaner but have never tried it. Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 09:39:10 2009 From: Jorge Garcia To: Austin Healey Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:38:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am interested in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing exists and where can I get one or where can I get the instructions to convert a negative ground alternator to positive ground? Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 09:54:17 2009 From: "Taylor, Todd S" To: fortee9er@yahoo.com, Austin Healey Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 11:53:03 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] degreaser I've heard that you can use diet coke or pepsi and citric acid to remove rust etc.. then naturalize with baking soda. Anybody ever tried this?? Sounds cheap enough... Can this be used as a degreaser too?? -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jorge Garcia Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 11:35 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] degreaser I want to remove years of caked up grease from the side of the engine block and the frame rails before installing the new starter can you recommend a strong degreaser that I can brush on to soften up the grease and then I can scrape off? I've heard of people using Easy Off oven cleaner but have never tried it. Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as todd.s.taylor@lmco.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 10:01:43 2009 From: To: fortee9er@yahoo.com, Austin Healey Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 9:01:01 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] degreaser Jorge, I would recommend that you use a citric based grease buster. This is available by the gallon and spray at any auto parts store or chain. I would pull the car onto a grassy area let it warm slightly then spray the area to be cleaned heavily with the grease buster. Let it sit for 5 minutes and repeat. You can brush caked areas then rinse with plain water. Keep repeating until satisfied. This stuff is not harsh on the environment and works incredibly well. Doing it on a lawn will keep from having to clean up your driveway or garage floor. Tracy ---- Jorge Garcia wrote: > I want to remove years of caked up grease from the side of the engine block and the frame rails before installing the new starter can you recommend a strong degreaser that I can brush on to soften up the grease and then I can scrape off? I've heard of people using Easy Off oven cleaner but have never tried it. > Thanks > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey@charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 10:15:49 2009 From: David Nock To: kaynmike.bham@juno.com Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:14:59 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 The famous 100/4 head gasket, A common problem if you have two low compressions next to each other you will find a blown head gasket between those two cylinders. Now you have two choices remove head, surface and install original style copper head gasket and studs and still have a problem. Two remove head, surface head and install modern style multi steel head gasket and hard studs and no more problems. The 100/4 head is common for leaks, cracks and water leaks right along the engine id tag. While head is off I would recomend that you strip head, have checked for cracks, install new hard seats, valves and springs, we always install new bronze guide inserts into the original cast guides. This way you get the advantage of the bronze guide and not the problems of sticking valves that you get when installing a new bronze guide. Like i have said many times would you rather be out driving the car or working on it. Do it right the first time. Unless you just like working out and lifting that hunk of iron on and off. Alan, I would like to see how you get these times, 5 minutes jack up car, find jack stands, get drain pan, drain coolant 10 minutes remove carbs 5 minutes remove rusty manifold nuts to pipe and do not break any studs, remove intake and exhaust manifolds 15 minutes remove rocker assy, push rods, radiator hoses, hood latch assy, head nuts, heater hoses, find help to lift the 80 pound head and remove with out damaging the front shroud. Total 35 minutes In a perfect world with all the tools sitting right there, no rust and in a hurry possible but that never happens. Good luck David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Feb 3, 2009, at 6:35 AM, kaynmike.bham@juno.com wrote: > Thanks for all replies.Shop is backed up, so space for the car is > limited-work > will commence in 12-14 days. Yes, head will be off as first step. Do I > understand correctly that IF the problem is a blow out between 3 > and 4 a new > gasket is all that would be required, whereas if the gasket were > intact I > should look further afield? (Warped/cracked head or uneven deck?) > Will verify > the operation of the valves. Do I need new bolts/nuts? Last time I > had this > head off, someone said "DO NOT retork" while others said ..."a MUST > @ 500 > miles." What's a cabinetmaker to do? > Mike Gougeon 56 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc@sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 10:35:05 2009 From: andy pole To: Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:34:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans Guys Just searched the archives with no joy, I have just drilled the holes in the rear seat surround to fit the rear seat pans (new surround and pans) and the pan will stop about 1" from meeting the surround, looking from underneath the dished part of the pan is catching on the surround. I have measured both and it does indeed look like the dished part is too wide for the hole. I tried an old pan and its the same. I can only see two ways out either; file the edge of the surround, or bend the edge (the lower recessed part that takes the seal) downwards. I do not really want to do either to a newly painted chassis. I take it non-one else has this problem and the pans fit straight away? I did grind the studs of the old pan and it still will not drop into the hole. Anyone want a bj8? Any thoughts. thanks Andy _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail, Messenger, Photos and more - all with the new Windows Live. Get started! http://www.download.live.com/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 10:38:37 2009 From: Jim Culp To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:38:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] New Austin Healey group on Gather dot com Hello all, I have started an Austin Healey group on Gather.com. For those of you that don't know, Gather is similar to Facebook, but the site is focused on like-minded groups of people with similar interests rather than simply "friends" that you know like Facebook. Anyway, if you are a Gather member, please join the group at: http://ahas.gather.com/ Cheers!, Jim Culp _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 10:46:13 2009 From: Russ Staub To: Rich C Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 10:45:36 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 Hi all, Well, this is a bit embarrassing, but I had a similar problem to Mike's and thought maybe coming clean to the list might in some way, some day, save some one a bit of grief or shorten the problem solving procedure on their 100. A couple of weeks ago, I had similar problems with my newly restored Austin Atlantic (A90 engine, same as the 100). I was going uphill however, and with greatly reduced power (apparently running on 2 cylinders), I had to pull over. She was still idling roughly, and I saw steam (white vapor) coming out of the tailpipe. Shut her off immediately. The engine was still quite cool, so no overheating involved. The problem was a VERY blown head gasket, if there is such a thing. As Rich points out, a chunk of gasket was missing between # 3 & 4 cylinders. Turns out the head was inadvertently torqued incorrectly (only 55 ft lbs), when it should have been 70 to 75 ft lbs. The workshop manual I had inherited from a previous owner had a handwritten note indicating the 55 ft. lbs. for the head nuts, and the mechanic working on the car did as it said. I don't know how this could have worked for the previous owner, but that's what it said. I have seen slightly leaking head gaskets, but never one that was actually missing material between the cylinders. And of course, as Mike's low compression readings suggest, it almost always occurs between #'s 3 and 4 on this engine. I also have a BN2 Healey 100, and it seeps ever so slightly along the head gasket line in the area of 3 and 4. My Healey has been this way for years, and many miles in this condition, so I don't worry about it. The Atlantic however, was another story. Because of the missing gasket material (melted?), we re honed the cylinders, re lapped the valves (some copper was found between one and its seat), drained and replaced the oil, drained and flushed the cooling system about 5 or 6 times, etc., etc. We wanted to be sure we didn't have any additional problems from the missing copper section on this go-around. Torqued, and later re torqued (hot) to 73 ft. lbs. My mechanic, by the way, believes in re torquing iron heads hot, and aluminium heads cold. He has a good bit of experience with both. Regards, Russ Staub '50 Atlantic '56 BN2 '67 BJ8 '60 Bugeye Mesa, AZ Rich C wrote: > I'd bet you have a chunk of head hasket blown out between 3 and 4 > bores. When the head comes off, have both the head and the deck > checked for truth. I've seen this problem on more than one Hundred, > where the head had been made dead true, but nobody checked the deck of > the block....equally important. A good friend replaced his head gasket > and made sure the head was flat 3 times in 26000 miles. Then we pulled > the engine down and checked the deck and found it to be .0035" thou > dished. > > Rich Chrysler _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 10:49:05 2009 From: "Rich C" To: "andy pole" , Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 12:48:45 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans Andy, Nothing on a BJ8 fits straight away! As I recall you have new metal in the rear pan surround area? When we are replacing metal here we use an old pair of original seat pans to use as indicators to make sure the hole perimeter metal is ground away sufficiently to allow the pans to fully seat into the openings. In addition, the orginals seldom had a good all around seal into the openings, usually due to differences in the contour of the curve down to the front. The factory usually had all sorts of tricks they used to build up the surface of the vinyl to meet that of the seat pan flange, from extra foam to stuffing extra layers of scrap carpet to bring the surrounding vinyl up to the seat flange. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "andy pole" To: Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 12:34 PM Subject: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans > Guys > Just searched the archives with no joy, I have just drilled the holes in > the > rear seat surround to fit the rear seat pans (new surround and pans) and > the > pan will stop about 1" from meeting the surround, looking from underneath > the > dished part of the pan is catching on the surround. I have measured both > and > it does indeed look like the dished part is too wide for the hole. > > I tried an old pan and its the same. I can only see two ways out either; > file > the edge of the surround, or bend the edge (the lower recessed part that > takes > the seal) downwards. I do not really want to do either to a newly painted > chassis. I take it non-one else has this problem and the pans fit straight > away? I did grind the studs of the old pan and it still will not drop into > the > hole. > > Anyone want a bj8? Any thoughts. > thanks Andy > _________________________________________________________________ > > Hotmail, Messenger, Photos and more - all with the new Windows Live. Get > started! > http://www.download.live.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler@quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 10:53:25 2009 From: "Freese, Ken" To: , "healeys" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:52:45 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] degreaser Jorge, Anything but Easy-Off. It will ruin some of the components. A club member tried it and learned the hard way. Gunk brand has always served me well. Brush on some kerosene first also helps. Hot water helps in the rinsing. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 10:59:18 2009 From: andy pole To: Rich C , Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:58:46 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans Thanks Rich Just wanted to double check before I get the grinder out! Why in the h*ll do they press a new seat pan that will not fit within a new pressed surround, its mad. I spent aes as well making a template out of card to get the holes in the right position for the studs (especially as the studs are not parallel and you need the larger hole to get them aligned) thanks again Andy> > Andy,> > Nothing on a BJ8 fits straight away! > As I recall you have new metal in the rear pan surround area? When we are > replacing metal here we use an old pair of original seat pans to use as > indicators to make sure the hole perimeter metal is ground away sufficiently > to allow the pans to fully seat into the openings.> In addition, the orginals seldom had a good all around seal into the > openings, usually due to differences in the contour of the curve down to the > front. The factory usually had all sorts of tricks they used to build up the > surface of the vinyl to meet that of the seat pan flange, from extra foam to > stuffing extra layers of scrap carpet to bring the surrounding vinyl up to > the seat flange.> > Rich Chrysler _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail, Messenger, Photos and more - all with the new Windows Live. Get started! http://www.download.live.com/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 11:04:31 2009 From: John Vrugtman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 13:02:22 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans This was a major headache on my restoration. The entire seat pan area had to be replaced, and since none of the usual suspects had the entire piece, I had to combine the rear section from the Nocks with a cut off bottom section from HS. Of course the pans would not fit. After much grinding, and unprintable comments, and cutting off the studs and re welding new ones, they finally fit reasonably well. Some therapeutic assistance from many beers is needed. Some of the relevant photos are on my Flicker page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/dryview/sets/72157609302724320/ John BJ8s andy pole wrote: > Guys > Just searched the archives with no joy, I have just drilled the holes in the > rear seat surround to fit the rear seat pans (new surround and pans) and the > pan will stop about 1" from meeting the surround, looking from underneath the > dished part of the pan is catching on the surround. I have measured both and > it does indeed look like the dished part is too wide for the hole. > > I tried an old pan and its the same. I can only see two ways out either; file > the edge of the surround, or bend the edge (the lower recessed part that takes > the seal) downwards. I do not really want to do either to a newly painted > chassis. I take it non-one else has this problem and the pans fit straight > away? I did grind the studs of the old pan and it still will not drop into the > hole. > > Anyone want a bj8? Any thoughts. > thanks Andy > _ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 11:14:36 2009 From: "Randy Dickson" To: Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 12:15:02 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans Andy, I had the same problem on my BJ7. I got a new seat surround (the horizontal part from between the wheel arches where the seat pans fit) from AH Spares a few years back. The steel seat pans would not fit in it. I had to grind a substantial amount of metal away from the pan surround, and in essence, make the interior diameter of the seat pan surround larger. The seat pans fit much better, but still not right. More bending, grinding, shaping and padding will be in order. Randy Healey Archaeologist 63 BJ7 60 BT7 66 Cobra replica 06 Mini Cooper S -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 11:49 AM To: andy pole; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans Andy, Nothing on a BJ8 fits straight away! As I recall you have new metal in the rear pan surround area? When we are replacing metal here we use an old pair of original seat pans to use as indicators to make sure the hole perimeter metal is ground away sufficiently to allow the pans to fully seat into the openings. In addition, the orginals seldom had a good all around seal into the openings, usually due to differences in the contour of the curve down to the front. The factory usually had all sorts of tricks they used to build up the surface of the vinyl to meet that of the seat pan flange, from extra foam to stuffing extra layers of scrap carpet to bring the surrounding vinyl up to the seat flange. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "andy pole" To: Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 12:34 PM Subject: [Healeys] 4 seater rear seat pans > Guys > Just searched the archives with no joy, I have just drilled the holes in > the > rear seat surround to fit the rear seat pans (new surround and pans) and > the > pan will stop about 1" from meeting the surround, looking from underneath > the > dished part of the pan is catching on the surround. I have measured both > and > it does indeed look like the dished part is too wide for the hole. > > I tried an old pan and its the same. I can only see two ways out either; > file > the edge of the surround, or bend the edge (the lower recessed part that > takes > the seal) downwards. I do not really want to do either to a newly painted > chassis. I take it non-one else has this problem and the pans fit straight > away? I did grind the studs of the old pan and it still will not drop into > the > hole. > > Anyone want a bj8? Any thoughts. > thanks Andy _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 11:17:15 2009 From: "James Sailer" To: "Healey List" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 11:16:49 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser Jorge et al; Not to sound like a curmudgeon or something but how about a method to protect not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the environment. 1. Park the car on a heavy plastic tarp on your driveway or other surface; preferably where there is a small grade; 2. Make a berm on the drainage side by pouring a couple of large bags of kitty litter or other absorbent to collect the greasy water, 3. minimize the water use, 4. add more absorbent as needed; 5. wrap the absorbed mess in the plastic tarp when done and throw in the garbage. It will go to a lined landfill. Kind of easy. Ok .. Off my soapbox. Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 11:28:17 2009 From: Jackson Krall To: Healey List , James Sailer Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 10:27:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser Amen, thank you brother James Best JK --- On Tue, 2/3/09, James Sailer wrote: > From: James Sailer > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser > To: "Healey List" > Date: Tuesday, February 3, 2009, 1:16 PM > Jorge et al; > > Not to sound like a curmudgeon or something but how about a > method to protect > not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the > environment. > > 1. Park the car on a heavy plastic tarp on your driveway or > other surface; > preferably where there is a small grade; > 2. Make a berm on the drainage side by pouring a couple of > large bags of kitty > litter or other absorbent to collect the greasy water, > 3. minimize the water use, > 4. add more absorbent as needed; > 5. wrap the absorbed mess in the plastic tarp when done and > throw in the > garbage. It will go to a lined landfill. > > Kind of easy. Ok .. Off my soapbox. > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall@yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 11:49:22 2009 From: "Dave Gay" To: , "Healey List" , Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 11:48:32 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser Use one of the cleaners such as "Fast Orange". We use a similar product from Zep to clean the asphalt off our pavers and asphalt distributers. Will usually take several applications and a stiff brush unless you have a good, heated, power washer. After the first application, use a scraper to capture a majority of the removed material. Dispose of properly. Subsequent applications can be washed off with water. The material washed off will be, more or less, "neutralized" by the cleaner and the quantity will be far less than that which naturally erodes off the street in front of your house in a day. The stuff is bio-degradable and comes in handy as a bug killer for that occasional critter that wanders across the garage floor. Dave -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jackson Krall Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 11:28 AM To: Healey List; James Sailer Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser Amen, thank you brother James Best JK --- On Tue, 2/3/09, James Sailer wrote: > From: James Sailer > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser > To: "Healey List" > Date: Tuesday, February 3, 2009, 1:16 PM > Jorge et al; > > Not to sound like a curmudgeon or something but how about a > method to protect > not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the > environment. > > 1. Park the car on a heavy plastic tarp on your driveway or > other surface; > preferably where there is a small grade; > 2. Make a berm on the drainage side by pouring a couple of > large bags of kitty > litter or other absorbent to collect the greasy water, > 3. minimize the water use, > 4. add more absorbent as needed; > 5. wrap the absorbed mess in the plastic tarp when done and > throw in the > garbage. It will go to a lined landfill. > > Kind of easy. Ok .. Off my soapbox. > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall@yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dgay@simoncontractors.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 12:15:02 2009 From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 11:14:27 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser I tried Castrol Super Cleaner, Cleaner-Degreaser, Biodegradable, that I purchased at Harbor Freight several years ago. As I recall, it wasn't very effective on the grease on my engine but it did desolve the paint on the valve cover. Repainting the valve cover was another one of those added jobs necessary due to "unintended consequences" (e.g. I was only going to do a minor tuneup but I noticed that the radiator was leaking. I removed it then I saw .......etc., etc., .... ) ;-) I am back using concentrated Gunk mixed with cleaning solvent per product instructions. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 12:22:57 2009 From: Jorge Garcia To: Austin Healey Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 11:22:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] degreaser Thank you for all the great responses to my degreaser question and Easy Off in particular. My car is immobile at the moment awaiting the installation of the new starter so all degreasing has to be done in situ in the garage. I don't have the luxury of using a water hose to remove excess degreaser because I will get everything else in garage wet. I have used degreasers in the past but they didn't get to the areas now exposed by the removal of the starter and the spin-off fuel filter. I will overlook the caked grease for now and once the car is mobile I will try some of your suggestions. Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 12:37:29 2009 From: Bob Brown To: fortee9er@yahoo.com Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 11:36:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation Jorge, I also purchased from British Starters, had the same issue with mounting. Simply take the mounting adaptor off the starter and rotate the stater to a position that will fit. The mounting plate is for many different applications and of course they don't set up the starter for a Healey. It may take a couple of tries but it does fit, I managed to get right in about two attempts, for me that was good. Bob ________________________________ From: Jorge Garcia fortee9er@yahoo.com I purchased a gear reduction starter from British Starters and I tried fitting it to the bell housing and found that if I lined up the bolt holes the starter would hit the scuttle or the frame rails. Is there a proper way to clock the starter so it will fit? In previous posts to the list some of you mentioned having to shim the starter in order to get a proper fit. Couls you explain what exactly did you shim and what was used as shims? Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 14:18:54 2009 From: Bob Spidell To: fortee9er@yahoo.com Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:18:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] degreaser I've had good results with 'Kreen' from Kanolabs (the same people who make Kroil). Silly names, good products: http://www.kanolabs.com/ Of course, I get a massive commission as well ;) bs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jorge Garcia" To: "Austin Healey" Sent: Tuesday, February 3, 2009 8:34:58 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [Healeys] degreaser I want to remove years of caked up grease from the side of the engine block and the frame rails before installing the new starter can you recommend a strong degreaser that I can brush on to soften up the grease and then I can scrape off? I've heard of people using Easy Off oven cleaner but have never tried it. Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as bspidell@comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 14:23:22 2009 From: Bob Spidell To: fortee9er@yahoo.com Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:22:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] degreaser My bad--the external cleaner is called "Floway" (Kreen is for internal cleaning). bs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: fortee9er@yahoo.com Cc: "Austin Healey" Sent: Tuesday, February 3, 2009 1:18:00 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] degreaser I've had good results with 'Kreen' from Kanolabs (the same people who make Kroil). Silly names, good products: http://www.kanolabs.com/ Of course, I get a massive commission as well ;) bs _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 14:27:53 2009 From: "G Vernau Sr" To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:23:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation (Jorge Garcia) Jorge- I don't remember the 'clock' position but it fit on mine with plenty of clearance and no shims required. Been working great for several years. Good luck- George Vernau Sr 1967 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 14:35:58 2009 From: "G Vernau Sr" To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:31:24 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Positive ground alternator- Jorge Jorge- Try this- I haven't bought one yet but will if my generator ever fails- http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=135&catid=2&ret=catalog.php%3Fcategory%3D2 Good luck, George Vernau Sr '67 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 14:44:39 2009 From: "Randy Dickson" To: Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:37:21 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] driving lights questions! Fellow Healeyoids, Im progressing fairly well on my BJ7. It has been seven years in restoration. I just hooked up a stereo last week. I built two 5 x 5 inch boxes that are 2 > inches deep. I installed 4 inch speakers with a good frequency response. I bolted them up under the dash against the lateral running air box. I hooked up my I-Pod and it sounds great,..Ramones, Ventures, Sex Pistols, Doors. Granted, I could build a sub woofer then cover it with matching black vinyl and put it in the back seat area but this is good for now. Now, since Im in the mindset for doing electrical work, I want to hook up some driving lights. Mo** has them for $100 each, the 5 inch spot light type that are Lucas copies. Are these any good or cheap Chinese copies? Or I could order from The Cape and get 5 inch Lucas SLR576 lights for approx. 85 pounds or $118 US. I think that the latter would be the better choice. I was wondering what others thought?????????????? Any experience with these? I plan on running a driving light relay and switch system, not hooked to the high-beam wire. Im not going to have a bumper on the front for a while. It ruins the lines of the Healey in my opinion. I will run rally bumper over-riders on the back. Also, I split a couple of old mangled bumper brackets in half this morning and straightened them out. I then cut the outside 3 or so inches off. Then I welded a 1 = inch piece on the end of the bracket and perpendicular to the bracket. This looks just like what some Healey places sell for $115 or so per pair. Now a little paint in body color to blend them in and Im done. Thanks! Randy Healey Archaeologist healeyarchaeology.blogspot.com 63 BJ7 60 BT7 66 Cobra replica 06 Mini Cooper S _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 15:03:13 2009 From: Charlie Baldwin To: Randy Dickson , healey list Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 17:02:31 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] driving lights questions! Randy, The Moss copies that I bought a few years ago were identical to the originals to the point where parts were interchangeable. In other words, they are excellent. So if they are still the same, there is no need to pay any more or pay more for shipping from the UK. At the time you could buy parts from Moss too and I used those to rebuild some original lamps. Charlie Randy Dickson wrote: > Fellow Healeyoids, > > > > Im progressing fairly well on my BJ7. It has been seven years in > restoration. I just hooked up a stereo last week. I built two 5 x 5 inch > boxes that are 2 > inches deep. I installed 4 inch speakers with a good > frequency response. I bolted them up under the dash against the lateral > running air box. I hooked up my I-Pod and it sounds great,..Ramones, > Ventures, Sex Pistols, Doors. Granted, I could build a sub woofer then > cover it with matching black vinyl and put it in the back seat area but > this is good for now. > > > > Now, since Im in the mindset for doing electrical work, I want to hook up > some driving lights. Mo** has them for $100 each, the 5 inch spot light > type that are Lucas copies. Are these any good or cheap Chinese copies? Or > I could order from The Cape and get 5 inch Lucas SLR576 lights for approx. > 85 pounds or $118 US. I think that the latter would be the better choice. > I was wondering what others thought?????????????? Any experience with > these? I plan on running a driving light relay and switch system, not > hooked to the high-beam wire. > > > > Im not going to have a bumper on the front for a while. It ruins the lines > of the Healey in my opinion. I will run rally bumper over-riders on the > back. > > Also, I split a couple of old mangled bumper brackets in half this morning > and straightened them out. I then cut the outside 3 or so inches off. Then > I welded a 1 = inch piece on the end of the bracket and perpendicular to the > bracket. This looks just like what some Healey places sell for $115 or so > per pair. Now a little paint in body color to blend them in and Im done. > > Thanks! > > > > Randy > > > > Healey Archaeologist > > > > healeyarchaeology.blogspot.com > > > > 63 BJ7 > > 60 BT7 > > 66 Cobra replica > > 06 Mini Cooper S > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as mgcharlie@comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 15:23:15 2009 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: "Healey List" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:22:28 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser I agree James, you wrote: ... how about a method to protect not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the environment When I have a major degreasing job to deal with, I generally lay down plastic, as James suggests, then lay many layers of newspaper as an absorbent. I then scrape off as much as I can with a selection of old putty knifes (paint scrapers), and then do the final clean with mineral spirits and a stiff brush. I then pull the plastic and soiled newspaper out from under the project and, if I have time and space, and if it is summer (I am in Canada), I leave the whole mess sit for a while to let the solvent volatize off. I try to get the as much of the old greasy grit to the hazardous waste disposal, but they usually tell me to stick it in the garbage, from which it unfortunately goes into the landfill. I also agree with the earlier comment about the Easy Off oven cleaner - absolutely nasty stuff and very, very hard on the hands if you get any on you - if you ever use it wear rubber gloves and safety glasses. The only application I use it for is getting burned on oil off the chrome pipes on my Velocette (motorcycle) - with a bit of elbow grease - it is pretty good for that. cheers, Mirek _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 15:59:20 2009 From: Awgertoo@aol.com To: fortee9er@yahoo.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:58:21 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation In a message dated 2/3/2009 11:29:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, fortee9er@yahoo.com writes: and found that if I lined up the bolt holes the starter would hit the scuttle or the frame rails. Is there a proper way to clock the starter so it will fit? In previous posts to the list some of you mentioned having to shim the starter in order to get a proper fit. Couls you explain what exactly did you shim and what was used as shims? Thanks ------------------------------------------- Jorge-- I have gear reduction starters fitted to my 100 and my wife's 3000. In both cases I found that there was only one "clock" position that allowed clearance of the engine and the toebox--it is close but should be there somewhere. I initially had to fit some shims (cut from suspension shims, but aluminum cans work just fine) to my wife's car to get the gear to engage/disengage cleanly but later found that the problem was due to the ring gear's having become misaligned which ultimately required pulling the engine to fix, but that's a whole nother story. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 16:05:37 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Dan Stromquist , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 07:05:04 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint question Putting clear coat gives any paint job "depth" and when you see super shiny show cars, its because of clear coat. If you want a more original, normal finish, no clear coat. If you want people to go "wow", then clear coat. Your car won't look original with a clear coat. On 2/3/09, Dan Stromquist wrote: > My paint shop used polyurethane without a clear coat finish and it came out > with a perfect finish-as good as the surface on any new car today I would > say. I cannot understand for the life of me, after looking at the finish on > my car, why you would need the clear coat. > Dan > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre > Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 5:50 AM > To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net > Subject: [Healeys] Paint question > > What is the consensus of painting over polyurethane with base coat clear > coat > , after > some initial sanding and panel leveling. > > My painter wants to spray all body panels( inside and out) off the car with > polyurethane. Then sand down the exterior sides of the panels ( after they > are > installed on the car), do the panel leveling(putty work) and then shoot > them > with base/clear coat after they are all smooth and level. > > He feels that the poly will give them good sight at the panel leveling that > needs to be done. > > I am just a bit leery of putting the base/clear over the poly. But then, I > am > not a painter. > > Never used this guy before and just want to make the right paint job call. > > Thanks for any comments, Mark > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as dan@warner-associates.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 16:50:20 2009 From: prafe@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 18:49:10 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 17:01:12 2009 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: "Truck" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 16:00:31 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 I've seen 'em. Don't know of any issues. I've got 'em on my BN6 Wilko On Feb 3, 2009, at 3:49 PM, prafe@aol.com wrote: > Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as e-wilkins@cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 17:29:59 2009 From: Carroll A Phillips To: healey list Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 19:29:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] re paint question >From my experience on clearcoat is this,(for vintage cars) basecoat requires a clearcoat, usually metallic paints on our vintage cars cannot be replicated with out going this modern route. Clearcoating over a single stage to give depth is the easyway out for the painter not wanting to go the extra mile for the high gloss depth look ( not correct for our cars anyway) but most like a really deep shine. For the vintage old enamel look, go single stage urethane (durability)(also only solid colors) any metallics you will need base/clear. Remember clearcoats will also over repeated washes start to show more haze than a comparible singlestage job. Id rather have the least amount of material on my car doing its job anyway. Carroll _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 18:09:15 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Russ Staub Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 09:08:01 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 Russ, et. al., There has been some confusion on this list (and with myself) on what is the correct torque setting for head nuts for the 100. This confusion is not helped by the fact that neither the factory workshop manual for the 100 nor the A90 specifies this. That being said, I have two other publications, and they both clearly state that this head should be torqued to 65 ft-lbs. I have been told to torque to 75 ft - lbs by several people as this is what is used on the 6-cylinder motor, but for the 100 motor it is only 65 ft. lbs. These are the two publications I am talking about, which I have found VERY useful over the years: 1) Glenn's Austin and Austin Healey. It's this book that details many of the detailed dizzy, carb and engine settings & equipment for the Healey 100 & 6 cyl, as well as Austins with A-series motors. Very useful if you can get an old used one 2) Austin cars by TBD Service - This book covers all post war Austins (except AH's) and has a wealth of info for any A90 owner. Great thing is this book is very small and can be put in the glove box for easy reference. 75 ft-lbs should be perfectly fine, but the only downside of over torquing on the 100 motor is over time the metal around the studs will start pulling up. This can usually be fixed by drilling little bevels in the stud holes on the block but if it can be avoided with proper torquing, all the better. One thing to note - compression on the A90 is 6.9:1 and for a stock BN1/BN2 compression is 7.5:1 - both very low. Compression for an M spec 100, however, is 8.1:1 and some racing stuff you can get out there will put it as high as 9.5:1. If running with higher compression, torquing to 75 ft-lbs is probably more correct. Using a solid steel or copper head gasket is smart too in this case. Regards, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 18:10:16 2009 From: "Rich C" To: , Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 20:10:01 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 Ewww!!!! (That means something like yuck!) I know, to each their own. Flame suit on. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 6:49 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 > Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2? > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 18:57:20 2009 From: Jorge Garcia To: Austin Healey Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:56:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues I spent the afternoon tinkering with the starter and got it clocked so that it cleared the passenger toe box and the engine block. The top bolt no problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I am thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. Any ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated. Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 19:02:23 2009 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: , Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 02:01:53 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 I have them on my BN1. I decided early on that I did not have the patience to be continually tuning (or paying to tune) wire wheels. For the cost differential a couple of tuning episodes are paid for. I like the look, but I like the look of the wires too and I run wider tires too.Bill Lawrence> To: healeys@autox.team.net> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 18:49:10 -0500> From: prafe@aol.com> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2?> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys@autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as ynotink@msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 19:08:08 2009 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: Rich C , , Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 02:07:36 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 I think I've finally found a name for my 100.Bill Lawrence> From: richchrysler@quickclic.net> To: healeys@autox.team.net; prafe@aol.com> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 20:10:01 -0500> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > Ewww!!!! (That means something like yuck!)> > I know, to each their own. Flame suit on.> > Rich Chrysler> > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 6:49 PM> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > >> Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2?>> _______________________________________________> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys@autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as ynotink@msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 19:10:10 2009 From: Awgertoo@aol.com To: fortee9er@yahoo.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:08:15 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues In a message dated 2/3/2009 8:56:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, fortee9er@yahoo.com writes: The top bolt no problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I am thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. Any ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated ---------------------------------------- Jorge-- Though I used a thin nut and lock washer when mounting the gear starters on the Healeys on the Elva (MGA engine) I went a different route and had a new nose piece machined out of aluminum with threads in the bottom tab which eliminated the need for the nut. You might get away with a helicoil. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 19:13:15 2009 From: richard mayor To: , healeys Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 02:12:37 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues They make nyloc nuts that are thinner than a standard size nut - and then you would not need a lockwasher. Richard > Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:56:29 -0800> From: fortee9er@yahoo.com> To: healeys@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues> > I spent the afternoon tinkering with the starter and got it clocked so that it cleared the passenger toe box and the engine block. The top bolt no problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I am thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. Any ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated.> Jorge Garcia> 1965 BJ8> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys@autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as mayorrichard@hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. goes where you go. On a PC, on the Web, on your phone. http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/learnmore/versatility.aspx#mobile?ocid=TXT _TAGHM_WL_HM_versatility_121208 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 19:14:33 2009 From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Alan Seigrist" , "Russ Staub" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 20:14:05 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 Alan, I am looking at an orignal hardback factory manual for the 100, it doesn't give much in the way of torque settings for the motor, but does provide head studs 65-70 lbs and flywheel crankshaft bolts 35-40 lbs. Manual is dated July 1954. I do agree that Glenn's is an excellent suppplement. When I rebuilt my motor on the recommendation of my machinist both the head and the block were planed a very slight amount to ensure a smooth even finish, and I used a standard issue copper head gasket, reused my head studs and had no problems with 8.5/1 compression .060 over pistons using the factory manual torque settings, did use a little permatex copper gasket sealer for head gasket. Maybe I am just a lucky fellow. Your mileage may vary. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 19:21:42 2009 From: Douglas W Flagg To: ynotink@msn.com Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:20:36 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 When I was in college and had my first Healey I never worried about tuning wire wheels as I didn't even know you had to!! But in all the years of driving Healeys, I never had any of my wheels tuned. I know, it was probably a bad idea, but certainly not enough to put Minilites on my 100. It would be sort of like putting Margaret Trumman's face on Marilyn Monroe's body. It is still a woman, but not the same!! Doug > I have them on my BN1. I decided early on that I did not have the > patience to > be continually tuning (or paying to tune) wire wheels. For the cost > differential a couple of tuning episodes are paid for. I like the > look, but I > like the look of the wires too and I run wider tires too.Bill > Lawrence> To: > healeys@autox.team.net> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 18:49:10 -0500> From: > prafe@aol.com> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > Has > anyone have > some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2?> ____________________________________________________________ Purify your water with professional water treatment. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2uXsdSS2kHQi4SPH6LyBb1EjkyELcMYsgrPNvDTAYBahQCQ/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 19:26:17 2009 From: "Rich C" To: "Healeys" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:25:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: 2009 Concours Guidelines distribution Dear Healey Friends, I am pleased to announce that the distribution of the 2009 Concours Guidelines, Policies and Scoresheets has commenced today for anybody who has ordered them. Each shipment includes the appropriate CD for Big Healey's and/or Sprites. The Guidelines have been published in a PDF format and our distributor, Mike Osipik will send you an Email attachment that should answer any questions regarding opening the files. This PDF disc allows the individual to copy the content into paper format as needed, so it's right there and handy as you're working on your car. There is a lot of new material and more coloured pictures that have been added to the 2009 edition. Cost with postage in U.S. $20.00 Canada and Mexico $25.00 All other $27.00 These prices are all expressed in U.S. currency. Anybody planning to have their car judged at the AHCA Kingston Conclave this June should have this 2009 Edition on hand. In fact we are asking all entrants to bring a hard paper copy of their appropriate judging sheets for their series car. Anybody wishing the new 2009 Edition of the Guidelines, Policies and Score sheets should contact: Mike Osipik mikeosipik@earthlink.net 816-333-2506 816-729-9119 Cell 253-484-7331 Fax Rich Chrysler AHCA/National Concours Committee Liaison _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 19:32:48 2009 From: "E.A. Driver" To: Douglas W Flagg Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 20:32:07 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 Doug, I'm breathless ;-) Regards Ed Douglas W Flagg wrote: > When I was in college and had my first Healey I never worried about > tuning wire wheels as I didn't even know you had to!! But in all the > years of driving Healeys, I never had any of my wheels tuned. I know, it > was probably a bad idea, but certainly not enough to put Minilites on my > 100. It would be sort of like putting Margaret Trumman's face on Marilyn > Monroe's body. It is still a woman, but not the same!! > > Doug > > >> I have them on my BN1. I decided early on that I did not have the >> patience to >> be continually tuning (or paying to tune) wire wheels. For the cost >> differential a couple of tuning episodes are paid for. I like the >> look, but I >> like the look of the wires too and I run wider tires too.Bill >> Lawrence> To: >> healeys@autox.team.net> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 18:49:10 -0500> From: >> prafe@aol.com> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > Has >> anyone have >> some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2?> >> > ____________________________________________________________ > Purify your water with professional water treatment. Click now! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2uXsdSS2kHQi4SPH6LyBb1EjkyELcMYsgrPNvDTAYBahQCQ/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as edriver@sasktel.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 20:42:15 2009 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "James Sailer" , "Healey List" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 22:41:25 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser James, I'd love to see the diaper arrangement that you use for the rumpis of your Healey so you don't pollute when you drive. ; ) Please don't go ballistic on me folks, I'm only kidding. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Sailer" To: "Healey List" Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 1:16 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser > Jorge et al; > > Not to sound like a curmudgeon or something but how about a method to > protect > not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the environment. > > 1. Park the car on a heavy plastic tarp on your driveway or other surface; > preferably where there is a small grade; > 2. Make a berm on the drainage side by pouring a couple of large bags of > kitty > litter or other absorbent to collect the greasy water, > 3. minimize the water use, > 4. add more absorbent as needed; > 5. wrap the absorbed mess in the plastic tarp when done and throw in the > garbage. It will go to a lined landfill. > > Kind of easy. Ok .. Off my soapbox. > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem@sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 20:46:30 2009 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: , "Austin Healey" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 22:45:59 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] degreaser Sunnyside mineral spirits (paint thinner) Low cost, Low volatile and get it pretty much anywhere. And it cuts like a knife. Served me well for many years and I still have a few brain cells left to prove it. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jorge Garcia" To: "Austin Healey" Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 11:34 AM Subject: [Healeys] degreaser >I want to remove years of caked up grease from the side of the engine block >and the frame rails before installing the new starter can you recommend a >strong degreaser that I can brush on to soften up the grease and then I can >scrape off? I've heard of people using Easy Off oven cleaner but have never >tried it. > Thanks > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem@sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 21:18:22 2009 From: "John Sims" To: "'Mark LaPierre'" , "'James Sailer'" Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 23:14:05 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser Reminds me when I was heavily into boating and laws were just being passed prohibiting the dumping of porta pottys into the ocean. One of the boating magazines started a campaign to diaper the whales. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 10:41 PM To: James Sailer; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser James, I'd love to see the diaper arrangement that you use for the rumpis of your Healey so you don't pollute when you drive. ; ) Please don't go ballistic on me folks, I'm only kidding. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Sailer" To: "Healey List" Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 1:16 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser > Jorge et al; > > Not to sound like a curmudgeon or something but how about a method to > protect > not only our own property (driveway and lawn) but also the environment. > > 1. Park the car on a heavy plastic tarp on your driveway or other surface; > preferably where there is a small grade; > 2. Make a berm on the drainage side by pouring a couple of large bags of > kitty > litter or other absorbent to collect the greasy water, > 3. minimize the water use, > 4. add more absorbent as needed; > 5. wrap the absorbed mess in the plastic tarp when done and throw in the > garbage. It will go to a lined landfill. > > Kind of easy. Ok .. Off my soapbox. > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as lapierrem@sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6@verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 21:54:16 2009 From: Marvin James To: fortee9er@yahoo.com Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:53:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues On my BN1 I inserted the bolt through the tab from the front before I reclocked the starter. With the starter reclocked the bolt is loosely captured when you install the starter. The nut/washer ends up on the aft side of the bellhousing but I wont tell anyone if you don't. Marv J On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 6:56 PM, Jorge Garcia wrote: > I spent the afternoon tinkering with the starter and got it clocked so that > it cleared the passenger toe box and the engine block. The top bolt no > problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the > nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should > clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I am > thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. Any > ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated. > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as britcrs@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 22:48:29 2009 From: To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 05:47:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?paint_question?= my bj8 is base coat/clear coat. the bn6 is single stage urethane. i have come to like the more original look of the single stage than the shiny clear coat. guess i am just old fashioned. hjim _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 3 23:50:47 2009 From: To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 06:48:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?mo_ma?= need email address for MoMa in albuqurque. one listed in google did not work. hjim _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 00:11:31 2009 From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 23:09:37 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues Jorge: I can't go look at this time and I put the starter in quite a while ago but as I recall, the bolt head is thinner than the nut so I just turned things around and put the bottom bolt in from the front. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jorge Garcia" To: "Austin Healey" Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 5:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues >I spent the afternoon tinkering with the starter and got it clocked so that >it cleared the passenger toe box and the engine block. The top bolt no >problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the >nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should >clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I >am thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. >Any ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated. > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 02:28:20 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Mirek Sharp Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:26:09 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: degreaser I would not worry to much. Oil is a natural product (OK, it is refined and dopes are added) and thus biodegradable. It is not as bad as the environment people will let us believe. Just spill some oil on your driveway and it will be completely gone after a year. Years ago there was a huge oil spill in the Atlantic near Scotland during a storm and there was an enormous worry for polluting the coastal aerea, and right they were to worry. However, because of the storm and the violent waves the oil was broken down in small particles and quickly degraded. Practically nothing was to be found afterwards. Mind you I am not telling you to dump your waste oil, be carefull with oil spill's, but it is not a disaster when it happens. The only real reason to avoid oil stains is SWMBO, she will tell you in no uncertain terms when you leave an oil stain on the drive way. I do my degreasing on my gravel driveway when she is not at home. No one the wiser. Never saw any oil stains and the weeds are growing like mad. Kees Oudesluijs Mirek Sharp schreef: > I agree James, > > you wrote: ... how about a method to protect not only our own property > (driveway and lawn) but also the environment > > When I have a major degreasing job to deal with, I generally lay down > plastic, as James suggests, then lay many layers of newspaper as an > absorbent. I then scrape off as much as I can with a selection of old > putty knifes (paint scrapers), and then do the final clean with > mineral spirits and a stiff brush. I then pull the plastic and soiled > newspaper out from under the project and, if I have time and space, > and if it is summer (I am in Canada), I leave the whole mess sit for a > while to let the solvent volatize off. I try to get the as much of > the old greasy grit to the hazardous waste disposal, but they usually > tell me to stick it in the garbage, from which it unfortunately goes > into the landfill. > > I also agree with the earlier comment about the Easy Off oven cleaner > - absolutely nasty stuff and very, very hard on the hands if you get > any on you - if you ever use it wear rubber gloves and safety > glasses. The only application I use it for is getting burned on oil > off the chrome pipes on my Velocette (motorcycle) - with a bit of > elbow grease - it is pretty good for that. > > cheers, > > Mirek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 02:41:16 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Alan Seigrist Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:37:39 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 What is usually ingnored by many is that the two front and the two rear head nuts/bolts should be torqued down slightly less than the rest. These four bolts have less surface to press down so the downforce should be less as well. This is especially important for alloy heads, but it is sound enginering practice for cast iron or steel heads as well. Go for about 10% less torque. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Russ, et. al., > > There has been some confusion on this list (and with myself) on what is the > correct torque setting for head nuts for the 100. This confusion is not > helped by the fact that neither the factory workshop manual for the 100 nor > the A90 specifies this. > > That being said, I have two other publications, and they both clearly state > that this head should be torqued to 65 ft-lbs. I have been told to torque > to 75 ft - lbs by several people as this is what is used on the 6-cylinder > motor, but for the 100 motor it is only 65 ft. lbs. These are the two > publications I am talking about, which I have found VERY useful over the > years: > > 1) Glenn's Austin and Austin Healey. It's this book that details many of > the detailed dizzy, carb and engine settings & equipment for the Healey 100 > & 6 cyl, as well as Austins with A-series motors. Very useful if you can > get an old used one > 2) Austin cars by TBD Service - This book covers all post war Austins > (except AH's) and has a wealth of info for any A90 owner. Great thing is > this book is very small and can be put in the glove box for easy reference. > > 75 ft-lbs should be perfectly fine, but the only downside of over torquing > on the 100 motor is over time the metal around the studs will start pulling > up. This can usually be fixed by drilling little bevels in the stud holes > on the block but if it can be avoided with proper torquing, all the better. > > One thing to note - compression on the A90 is 6.9:1 and for a stock BN1/BN2 > compression is 7.5:1 - both very low. Compression for an M spec 100, > however, is 8.1:1 and some racing stuff you can get out there will put it as > high as 9.5:1. If running with higher compression, torquing to 75 ft-lbs is > probably more correct. Using a solid steel or copper head gasket is smart > too in this case. > > Regards, > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > when it should have been 70 to 75 ft lbs. The workshop manual I had > inherited from a previous owner had a handwritten note indicating the 55 > ft. lbs. for the head nuts, and the mechanic working on the car did as it > said.> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 02:42:42 2009 From: Oudesluys To: fortee9er@yahoo.com Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:39:07 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gear reduction starter installation saga continues Do away with the lock washer and use locktide. Kees Oudesluijs Jorge Garcia schreef: > I spent the afternoon tinkering with the starter and got it clocked so that it cleared the passenger toe box and the engine block. The top bolt no problem but the bottom bolt not so good there is very little room for the nut to fit between the starter motor and and the mounting tab. I should clarify that the nut will just fit but not the nut and the lock washer. I am thinking of finding a thinner nut that will fit with the lock washer. Any ideas suggestions would be greatly apprciated. > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 02:44:06 2009 From: Oudesluys To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:40:32 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 5 slotted Wolfrace wheels look a whole lot better and are probably more appriate for the Healey. Kees Oudesluijs WILLIAM B LAWRENCE schreef: > I have them on my BN1. I decided early on that I did not have the patience to > be continually tuning (or paying to tune) wire wheels. For the cost > differential a couple of tuning episodes are paid for. I like the look, but I > like the look of the wires too and I run wider tires too.Bill Lawrence> To: > healeys@autox.team.net> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 18:49:10 -0500> From: > prafe@aol.com> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100> > Has anyone have > some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2?> > _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys@autox.team.net> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as > ynotink@msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 04:59:51 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: fortee9er@yahoo.com Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 19:53:04 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator Jorge - Converting your car to negative ground and putting a normal negative ground alternator on it is a very easy conversion, and cheaper! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 12:38 AM, Jorge Garcia wrote: > Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am interested > in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing exists and where can > I get one or where can I get the instructions to convert a negative ground > alternator to positive ground? > Thanks > Jorge Garcia > 1965 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 05:32:38 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Alan Seigrist Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 13:21:34 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get damaged. Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage stabilizer if fitted. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Jorge - > > Converting your car to negative ground and putting a normal negative ground > alternator on it is a very easy conversion, and cheaper! > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 12:38 AM, Jorge Garcia wrote: > > >> Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am interested >> in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing exists and where can >> I get one or where can I get the instructions to convert a negative ground >> alternator to positive ground? >> Thanks >> Jorge Garcia >> 1965 BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as healey.nut@gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 05:48:09 2009 From: To: Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 13:36:34 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator Kees, Healeys do not have a voltage stabilizer installed and no Jaeger clocks. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Oudesluys Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 13:22 An: Alan Seigrist Cc: Austin Healey Betreff: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get damaged. Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage stabilizer if fitted. Kees Oudesluijs Alan Seigrist schreef: > Jorge - > > Converting your car to negative ground and putting a normal negative > ground alternator on it is a very easy conversion, and cheaper! > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '64 BJ8 > > > On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 12:38 AM, Jorge Garcia wrote: > > >> Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am >> interested in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing >> exists and where can I get one or where can I get the instructions to >> convert a negative ground alternator to positive ground? >> Thanks >> Jorge Garcia >> 1965 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 05:52:09 2009 From: "Simon Lachlan" To: "'Douglas W Flagg'" , Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 12:50:34 -0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 And when I was at university, TCD, in Dublin, I didn't know anything [about anything?) either and one of my rear wires collapsed going round a corner in Ballsbridge rather too enthusiastically. There was less traffic in Dublin those days and that was possible in daylight hours. For the Irish amongst us, there was a guy in a back street off the far end of O'Connell Street who specialized in doing things to wire wheels. In the same street was a battery place where they could put new posts on batteries. They melted the lead(?) in moulds and, more or less, hey presto. Those guys, and the street too, would be long gone I'd guess. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Douglas W Flagg Sent: 04 February 2009 02:21 To: ynotink@msn.com Cc: prafe@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 When I was in college and had my first Healey I never worried about tuning wire wheels as I didn't even know you had to!! But in all the years of driving Healeys, I never had any of my wheels tuned. I know, it was probably a bad idea, but certainly not enough to put Minilites on my 100. It would be sort of like putting Margaret Trumman's face on Marilyn Monroe's body. It is still a woman, but not the same!! Doug _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 06:35:30 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Simon Lachlan Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:27:42 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 Long gone from lead poisoning.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 8:50 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > And when I was at university, TCD, in Dublin, I didn't know anything [about > anything?) either and one of my rear wires collapsed going round a corner > in > Ballsbridge rather too enthusiastically. There was less traffic in Dublin > those days and that was possible in daylight hours. For the Irish amongst > us, there was a guy in a back street off the far end of O'Connell Street > who > specialized in doing things to wire wheels. In the same street was a > battery > place where they could put new posts on batteries. They melted the lead(?) > in moulds and, more or less, hey presto. Those guys, and the street too, > would be long gone I'd guess. > Simon > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Douglas W Flagg > Sent: 04 February 2009 02:21 > To: ynotink@msn.com > Cc: prafe@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 > > When I was in college and had my first Healey I never worried about > tuning wire wheels as I didn't even know you had to!! But in all the > years of driving Healeys, I never had any of my wheels tuned. I know, it > was probably a bad idea, but certainly not enough to put Minilites on my > 100. It would be sort of like putting Margaret Trumman's face on Marilyn > Monroe's body. It is still a woman, but not the same!! > > Doug > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 07:21:47 2009 From: "Thomas-Michael Willig" To: Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 15:18:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 bolts for clutch cover During the rebuild of my BN2 engine, I managed to lose the bolts which attach the clutch cover to the flywheel. Anyone knows which size/thread these bolts should have?? Somehow, none of the available bolts do fit. Thanks for any help here. Regards Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 07:52:21 2009 From: "Geatros" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 06:38:01 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] lots of Healey parts for salewith 100-6 project $16K Hello Listers If anyone is looking for Healey parts and a 100-6 a fellow called me and has an iventory list he can send, too large to post, shrouds, 2 rebuilt center shift trans.engines, 100-6 project car,and lots more ect......$16k Call Geoffery Reis 610-776-7661 or geoffery@jagconnection.com He can send photos and an inventory list . He says theres no junk and I think he said he's he's near New York . No $ interest just passing on the info.... Good Luck Kenny Geatros Vancouver BC _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 08:24:21 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 15:57:35 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator There are bound to be people who have fitted an electric clock from Smiths (or Jaeger UK which is the same). I have seen later Healey's with 110: instuments. These usually need a voltage stabiliser (fuel or temperature meter when they ar bimetallic instruments). If they are original, I do not know, I am not an Austin Healey man. My Healey's most certainly had a voltage stabiliser from new. But than it is a Jensen. Kees Oudesluijs Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com schreef: > Kees, > Healeys do not have a voltage stabilizer installed and no Jaeger clocks. > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von Oudesluys > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 13:22 > An: Alan Seigrist > Cc: Austin Healey > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator > > However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get damaged. > Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage > stabilizer if fitted. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Alan Seigrist schreef: > >> Jorge - >> >> Converting your car to negative ground and putting a normal negative >> ground alternator on it is a very easy conversion, and cheaper! >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '64 BJ8 >> >> >> On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 12:38 AM, Jorge Garcia wrote: >> >> >> >>> Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am >>> interested in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing >>> exists and where can I get one or where can I get the instructions to >>> convert a negative ground alternator to positive ground? >>> Thanks >>> Jorge Garcia >>> 1965 BJ8 >>> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 09:26:29 2009 From: Kent McLean To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:54:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Save me From the spridgets list: Misspelled, and with a V6. Who knows what you'll get. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 11:26:29 2009 From: Marvin James To: Alan Seigrist Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 10:58:49 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 I have a factory workshop manual dated September 1956. On page D/2 under "Torque Wrench Settings" it lists cylinder head nuts as "65-70 lbs./ft, (8.987-9.678 kgm.) Marv J On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 6:08 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Russ, et. al., > > There has been some confusion on this list (and with myself) on what is the _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 11:27:50 2009 From: "M Lempert" To: "Healey List" Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 13:02:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] ebay Steering Wheel Warning Anyone watching or considering bidding on this auction please use caution. I believe this to be a fraudulent sale. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280309654867 Mike Lempert _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 11:46:25 2009 From: henry To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 10:12:35 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Head Hello List: I am getting ready to remove my 100/4 engine. With all the talk of cracked and warped heads, is it alright to use the 4 outside head bolts to hoist the engine? To store the engine, do I need to retorque the head? I don't want to damage the head. What about using the 2 valve cover bolts? Thanks _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 11:48:16 2009 From: Oudesluys To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 19:22:15 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive I just see I made a mistake, I ment an electrical water pump or fan. Sorry for the confusion. Degeneration of the gray cells I am afraid. I just want to keep it simple. Anyway the efficiency of electromotors and dynamo/alternators are fairly high (around 80-90%), so for ease keep them at 100%. Things automotive from the 50's ae not very accurate anyhow. Kees Oudesluijs Eric (Rick) Wilkins schreef: > Not that simple math. > > There is the efficiency of each item to be considered. You can run the > water pump from a battery for maximum HP, but an alternator may/may > not use more mechanical energy than your belt driven pump. Also, once > the pump is removed you are reducing the engine from driving an > alternator AND a pump, to just a an alternator. > > Wilko > > On Feb 3, 2009, at 2:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > >> A water pump and a mechanical fan need a fair amount of power to be >> driven. They are not perpetu|m mobilae, so that power needs to come >> from somewhere: ultimately the engine, and it does not make any >> difference if that is through the alternator/dynamo and battery. So >> the power needed for the alternator that will feed the battery and >> powers the water pump will not be available to drive the wheels. >> Simple mathematics. >> Kees Oudesluijs _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 11:49:36 2009 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: Oudesluys Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 09:48:55 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Not that simple math. There is the efficiency of each item to be considered. You can run the water pump from a battery for maximum HP, but an alternator may/ may not use more mechanical energy than your belt driven pump. Also, once the pump is removed you are reducing the engine from driving an alternator AND a pump, to just a an alternator. Wilko On Feb 3, 2009, at 2:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > A water pump and a mechanical fan need a fair amount of power to be > driven. They are not perpetu|m mobilae, so that power needs to come > from somewhere: ultimately the engine, and it does not make any > difference if that is through the alternator/dynamo and battery. So > the power needed for the alternator that will feed the battery and > powers the water pump will not be available to drive the wheels. > Simple mathematics. > Kees Oudesluijs _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 12:16:08 2009 From: Bob To: Marvin James , Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 13:54:31 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] no compression 100 The September 1954 issue of the service manual (Publication # 997B) also states the same. Bob Marvin James wrote: I have a factory workshop manual dated September 1956. On page D/2 under "Torque Wrench Settings" it lists cylinder head nuts as "65-70 lbs./ft, (8.987-9.678 kgm.) Marv J On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 6:08 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: Russ, et. al., There has been some confusion on this list (and with myself) on what is the _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 13:02:53 2009 From: Oudesluys To: henry Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 20:35:59 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Head henry schreef: > Hello List: > > I am getting ready to remove my 100/4 engine. With all the talk of > cracked and warped heads, > is it alright to use the 4 outside head bolts to hoist the engine? > To store the engine, do I need to retorque the head? > I don't want to damage the head. > > What about using the 2 valve cover bolts? > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 13:18:29 2009 From: "Mark Goodman" To: Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 14:55:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Item on ebay Dear Mike, That item is definitely genuine as I have seen it at Bob Millstein's Shop. He has many Healey parts, and has been very helpful to me over the past 25 years. He is a straight shooter and has many other rare British Car Parts in his stockpile. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 13:51:28 2009 From: To: M Lempert , Healey List Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 15:33:53 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] ebay Steering Wheel Warning Mike, Fradulent as in that is not a real LL wheel? Cheers! ---- M Lempert wrote: > Anyone watching or considering bidding on this auction please use caution. I > believe this to be a fraudulent sale. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280309654867 > > Mike Lempert > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey@charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 14:06:22 2009 From: Bob Spidell To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 20:43:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive This got me to thinking (always a dangerous proposition) ... Aren't we forgetting about the Law of Conservation of Energy? (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy). If I read the law correctly (I'm not a lawyer) if it takes X HP to drive the water/air through/over the engine you'll use X HP from a) the engine, for a mechanical pump or fan or b) the alternator for an electric pump/fan. Assuming little or no slippage from the belt, the engine-driven pump/fan will be operating at near 100% efficiency (minus the fluid 'slippage' at the fan blade or pump impeller--essentially the same for both electrical or engine-driven units). I don't know the actual number, but alternators are probably around 80-90% efficient at converting mechanical energy to electrical (by rectifying the AC output to DC you're losing some of the electrical power, and some goes up as heat and there's always friction). IOW, if you convert X HP to watts, you'll increase the load on the alternator by (X HP->Y Watts), and the alternator will produce the additional watts by converting more engine HP to electricity. The advantage of electrically-driven accessories--it seems to me--is the ability to reduce or shut off the motor power when not needed. Yes, you can run them off the battery, but usually you'll be running off the alternator. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: "Oudesluys" Cc: "healeys" Sent: Wednesday, February 4, 2009 9:48:55 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Not that simple math. There is the efficiency of each item to be considered. You can run the water pump from a battery for maximum HP, but an alternator may/ may not use more mechanical energy than your belt driven pump. Also, once the pump is removed you are reducing the engine from driving an alternator AND a pump, to just a an alternator. Wilko On Feb 3, 2009, at 2:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > A water pump and a mechanical fan need a fair amount of power to be > driven. They are not perpetu|m mobilae, so that power needs to come > from somewhere: ultimately the engine, and it does not make any > difference if that is through the alternator/dynamo and battery. So > the power needed for the alternator that will feed the battery and > powers the water pump will not be available to drive the wheels. > Simple mathematics. > Kees Oudesluijs _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 14:37:15 2009 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: "'Bryan Savage'" , "'List Land Speed'" Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 13:20:00 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Like I was saying... It's not simple mathematics at all. Wilko On Feb 4, 2009, at 12:43 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > This got me to thinking (always a dangerous proposition) ... > > Aren't we forgetting about the Law of Conservation of Energy? > (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy). If I read > the law correctly (I'm not a lawyer) if it takes X HP to drive the > water/air through/over the engine you'll use X HP from a) the > engine, for a mechanical pump or fan or b) the alternator for an > electric pump/fan. Assuming little or no slippage from the belt, > the engine-driven pump/fan will be operating at near 100% > efficiency (minus the fluid 'slippage' at the fan blade or pump > impeller--essentially the same for both electrical or engine-driven > units). I don't know the actual number, but alternators are > probably around 80-90% efficient at converting mechanical energy to > electrical (by rectifying the AC output to DC you're losing some of > the electrical power, and some goes up as heat and there's always > friction). > > IOW, if you convert X HP to watts, you'll increase the load on the > alternator by (X HP->Y Watts), and the alternator will produce the > additional watts by converting more engine HP to electricity. > > The advantage of electrically-driven accessories--it seems to me-- > is the ability to reduce or shut off the motor power when not > needed. Yes, you can run them off the battery, but usually you'll > be running off the alternator. > > > Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 15:55:48 2009 From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: , Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 09:21:12 +1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator G'day Don't you just love pedants? It's the way they get about with that smarmy look on their faces that make me feel like donging them on the head. Healeys were fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments, but Austin-Healeys were never fitted with either. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon - fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 - never fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com Sent: Wednesday, 4 February 2009 11:37 PM To: Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator Kees, Healeys do not have a voltage stabilizer installed and no Jaeger clocks. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Oudesluys Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 13:22 An: Alan Seigrist Cc: Austin Healey Betreff: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get damaged. Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage stabilizer if fitted. Kees Oudesluijs ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 16:55:03 2009 From: Jackson Krall To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 14:58:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Parts in NJ quite a few good parts here http://newjersey.craigslist.org/pts/1017669198.html Best JK _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 17:27:31 2009 From: "M Lempert" To: "Mark Goodman" Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 18:38:40 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark knows the gent and has seen the steering wheel. But let me explain. There were two Lestons listed by the same seller with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as a buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate payment which is something I hadn't encountered before. The payment had to be made before it even closed the auction - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with only three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After the $150 wheel sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was finally taken down some time later. Very strange indeed. Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as someone without a life) the Moss signature on the one wheel looked odd. I compared the signature with one that I have plus two more signatures from period advertisements. See, I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not look good. I have just uploaded the signature comparisons so you can see what I'm talking about. The first two signatures are obviously from the adverts; the third (A) is from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the ebay wheel. What do you think? http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575 Mike L. ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Goodman To: mlempert@bellsouth.net Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 2:55 PM Subject: Item on ebay Dear Mike, That item is definitely genuine as I have seen it at Bob Millstein's Shop. He has many Healey parts, and has been very helpful to me over the past 25 years. He is a straight shooter and has many other rare British Car Parts in his stockpile. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 18:27:37 2009 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: M Lempert , Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 00:47:54 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay Looks like a pretty easy signature to forge and it is kind of a sloppy job of engraving. On the other hand, an engraving tool is not a normal writing instrument and if someone (Sir Stirling?) were using one on a limited basis it might come out looking like that.Bill Lawrence> From: mlempert@bellsouth.net> To: mkgoodman@att.net> Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 18:38:40 -0500> CC: HealeyHundred@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay> > Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark knows the gent and > has seen the steering wheel. But let me explain. There were two Lestons > listed by the same seller with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as > a buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate payment which is > something I hadn't encountered before. The payment had to be made before it > even closed the auction - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with > only three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After the $150 wheel > sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was finally taken down some time later. > Very strange indeed.> > Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as someone without a life) > the Moss signature on the one wheel looked odd. I compared the signature > with one that I have plus two more signatures from period advertisements. > See, I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not look good. I > have just uploaded the signature comparisons so you can see what I'm talking > about. The first two signatures are obviously from the adverts; the third > (A) is from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the ebay wheel. What do > you think?> http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575> > Mike L.> > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Mark Goodman> To: mlempert@bellsouth.net> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 2:55 PM> Subject: Item on ebay> > > Dear Mike,> > That item is definitely genuine as I have seen it at Bob Millstein's Shop. > He has many Healey parts, and has been very helpful to me over the past 25 > years. He is a straight shooter and has many other rare British Car Parts > in his stockpile.> > Mark Goodman> 66 BJ8 35503> www.austinhealeyessence.com> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys@autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as ynotink@msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 18:29:08 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: M Lempert Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 08:48:04 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay Maybe it's a 1960's Japanese ripoff? Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 7:38 AM, M Lempert wrote: > Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark knows the gent > and has seen the steering wheel. But let me explain. There were two Lestons > listed by the same seller with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as > a buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate payment which is > something I hadn't encountered before. The payment had to be made before it > even closed the auction - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with > only three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After the $150 wheel > sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was finally taken down some time later. > Very strange indeed. > > Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as someone without a > life) the Moss signature on the one wheel looked odd. I compared the > signature with one that I have plus two more signatures from period > advertisements. See, I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not > look good. I have just uploaded the signature comparisons so you can see > what I'm talking about. The first two signatures are obviously from the > adverts; the third (A) is from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the > ebay wheel. What do you think? > http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575 > > Mike L. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 18:30:45 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: M Lempert Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 08:53:20 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay Mike - I only say that - about 10 years ago I'd go into the shopping areas in Saigon, and the shops were chock full of counterfeit watches and lighters, etc. - the only thing unusual about it were all the counterfeits were from the 1960's and 1970's (i.e. not modern Chinese counterfeits), so I guess my point is Counterfeiting has been around a long time and this may very well be an old counterfeit. When I was a kid living in Taiwan in the 60's and 70's, you could buy any book published in the USA in Taiwan - Taiwan at that time was the world's biggest producer of counterfeit English language books. I still have a Taiwan Merriam Webster Dictionary around somewhere - as you well know a Webster's Dictionary in the US at the time costed a fortune, but was only about 1/5th the price in Taiwan! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 7:38 AM, M Lempert wrote: > Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark knows the gent > and has seen the steering wheel. But let me explain. There were two Lestons > listed by the same seller with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as > a buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate payment which is > something I hadn't encountered before. The payment had to be made before it > even closed the auction - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with > only three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After the $150 wheel > sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was finally taken down some time later. > Very strange indeed. > > Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as someone without a > life) the Moss signature on the one wheel looked odd. I compared the > signature with one that I have plus two more signatures from period > advertisements. See, I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not > look good. I have just uploaded the signature comparisons so you can see > what I'm talking about. The first two signatures are obviously from the > adverts; the third (A) is from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the > ebay wheel. What do you think? > http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575 > > Mike L. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 19:29:46 2009 From: tld6008@mchsi.com To: healeys@autox.team.net (Healey list) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 01:56:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) I am trying to finish the interior of my BN7 and am unsure how to deal with the horizontal feature that is just above the drive shaft tunnel on the vertical bulkhead behind the seats. I believe the Armacord from the floor fits up underneath it and the carpet on the rear deck runs down to it but what actually is done with the what ever it's called. -- Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 20:00:31 2009 From: "Mark Goodman" To: "'M Lempert'" , "'Alan Seigrist'" Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:22:28 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay Mike, I cannot verify if it is a true signature from Sir Sterling as that is not important to me, but it has been in his shop for over 15 years. You are obviously well versed on his signature, as you have several items that bear that. Concerning his ebay history, I know that this is a new experience for him. I have told him for the past 5 years to start moving his inventory on ebay, and with everyone's business activities being slow these days, he probably has some time now to sell some of his "stockpile". Probably the buy it now feature was chosen because he has not had much experience at the ebay game. He is an honest man and has always treated me fairly in any work that he has done on my Healey and any parts that I have purchased from him. He has an image of himself with Donald Healey next to the BJ8 he had in the 70's along with a signed letter from Donald. He is well respected in the Vintage Racing field and is very much involved in VSCCA and the Northeast Jaguar Club. You do not gain that from misbehaving or doing dishonest deals. Mark -----Original Message----- From: M Lempert [mailto:mlempert@bellsouth.net] Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 6:39 PM To: Mark Goodman Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; HealeyHundred@comcast.net Subject: Re: Item on ebay Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark knows the gent and has seen the steering wheel. But let me explain. There were two Lestons listed by the same seller with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as a buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate payment which is something I hadn't encountered before. The payment had to be made before it even closed the auction - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with only three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After the $150 wheel sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was finally taken down some time later. Very strange indeed. Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as someone without a life) the Moss signature on the one wheel looked odd. I compared the signature with one that I have plus two more signatures from period advertisements. See, I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not look good. I have just uploaded the signature comparisons so you can see what I'm talking about. The first two signatures are obviously from the adverts; the third (A) is from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the ebay wheel. What do you think? http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575 Mike L. ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Goodman To: mlempert@bellsouth.net Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 2:55 PM Subject: Item on ebay Dear Mike, That item is definitely genuine as I have seen it at Bob Millstein's Shop. He has many Healey parts, and has been very helpful to me over the past 25 years. He is a straight shooter and has many other rare British Car Parts in his stockpile. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 22:01:03 2009 From: "Ed's Shop" To: Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 22:04:31 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay <> Mike, I was about to write almost EXACTLY what Bill said (above). If I use my engraver ONCE a year (it is a LOT) and my own sig would have the minor differences as the ones in your pics. On a side note, Bill Lawrence, Mike Lempert and Mark Goodman are NOT getting TWO mails because I am NOT so LAZY as to not take the time to remove their addys BEFORE I hit Send. And it IS polite!! Ed _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 22:33:57 2009 From: Robert Blair To: M Lempert , Healey List Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 20:55:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] ebay Steering Wheel Warning I am not a wheel expert, but this is not the normal Stirling Moss signature - I know Moss and have several original sigs in my posession. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail@yahoo.com --- On Wed, 2/4/09, bighealey@charter.net wrote: > From: bighealey@charter.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] ebay Steering Wheel Warning > To: "M Lempert" , "Healey List" > Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2009, 12:33 PM > Mike, > > Fradulent as in that is not a real LL wheel? > > Cheers! > > ---- M Lempert wrote: > > Anyone watching or considering bidding on this auction > please use caution. I > > believe this to be a fraudulent sale. > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280309654867 > > > > Mike Lempert > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys@autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as bighealey@charter.net > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rnbmail@yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 22:35:27 2009 From: Robert Blair To: Mark Goodman , M Lempert Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:01:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay Mike, Exactly my point - the D looks contrived and is probably not a production stencil of the original Moss sig. His later in life sig is different yet again - as you would expect - less legible of course. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail@yahoo.com --- On Wed, 2/4/09, M Lempert wrote: > From: M Lempert > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay > To: "Mark Goodman" > Cc: HealeyHundred@comcast.net, healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2009, 3:38 PM > Okay, maybe I need to recant my story, especially if Mark > knows the gent and has seen the steering wheel. But let me > explain. There were two Lestons listed by the same seller > with only three feedbacks. The other was listed as a > buy-it-now at only $150. Both wheels required immediate > payment which is something I hadn't encountered before. > The payment had to be made before it even closed the auction > - very unusual. Now that together with a seller with only > three feedbacks merits caution. But there's more. After > the $150 wheel sold, it appeard again on ebay; then was > finally taken down some time later. Very strange indeed. > > Additionally, (and here I will incriminate myself as > someone without a life) the Moss signature on the one wheel > looked odd. I compared the signature with one that I have > plus two more signatures from period advertisements. See, > I'm a total steering wheel geek. The signature did not > look good. I have just uploaded the signature comparisons so > you can see what I'm talking about. The first two > signatures are obviously from the adverts; the third (A) is > from my steering wheel, and the fourth (B) is the ebay > wheel. What do you think? > http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/image/108877575 > > Mike L. > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Goodman > To: mlempert@bellsouth.net > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 2:55 PM > Subject: Item on ebay > > > Dear Mike, > > That item is definitely genuine as I have seen it at Bob > Millstein's Shop. He has many Healey parts, and has been > very helpful to me over the past 25 years. He is a straight > shooter and has many other rare British Car Parts in his > stockpile. > > Mark Goodman > 66 BJ8 35503 > www.austinhealeyessence.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rnbmail@yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 4 23:04:46 2009 From: "Rich C" To: , "Healey list" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 00:11:50 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject) Tim, The inverted metal lip should be covered with the matching vinyl as the trim panels. The rear floor carpet will indeed be pushed tightly up under the flange, and will be hed there by the compression of the carpet, being forced to stay there by the floor snaps. Pictures included. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Healey list" Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 8:56 PM Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) > I am trying to finish the interior of my BN7 and am unsure how to deal > with the horizontal feature that is just above the drive shaft tunnel on > the vertical bulkhead behind the seats. I believe the Armacord from the > floor fits up underneath it and the carpet on the rear deck runs down to > it but what actually is done with the what ever it's called. > > -- > Tim Davis BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler@quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 3000 Rdstr Detail 0002.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010068.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010067.JPG] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 00:19:09 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Bob Spidell Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 08:17:50 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Bob, Perfectly explained. The battery is charged by the dynamo/alternator thus also sapping the engine, allthough a bit spread out so peak HP will suffer a bit less. Kees Oudesluijs Bob Spidell schreef: > This got me to thinking (always a dangerous proposition) ... > > Aren't we forgetting about the Law of Conservation of Energy? > (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy). If I read the > law correctly (I'm not a lawyer) if it takes X HP to drive the > water/air through/over the engine you'll use X HP from a) the engine, > for a mechanical pump or fan or b) the alternator for an electric > pump/fan. Assuming little or no slippage from the belt, the > engine-driven pump/fan will be operating at near 100% efficiency > (minus the fluid 'slippage' at the fan blade or pump > impeller--essentially the same for both electrical or engine-driven > units). I don't know the actual number, but alternators are probably > around 80-90% efficient at converting mechanical energy to electrical > (by rectifying the AC output to DC you're losing some of the > electrical power, and some goes up as heat and there's always friction). > > IOW, if you convert X HP to watts, you'll increase the load on the > alternator by (X HP->Y Watts), and the alternator will produce the > additional watts by converting more engine HP to electricity. > > The advantage of electrically-driven accessories--it seems to me--is > the ability to reduce or shut off the motor power when not needed. > Yes, you can run them off the battery, but usually you'll be running > off the alternator. > > > Bob > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" > To: "Oudesluys" > Cc: "healeys" > Sent: Wednesday, February 4, 2009 9:48:55 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > > Not that simple math. > > There is the efficiency of each item to be considered. You can run > the water pump from a battery for maximum HP, but an alternator may/ > may not use more mechanical energy than your belt driven pump. Also, > once the pump is removed you are reducing the engine from driving an > alternator AND a pump, to just a an alternator. > > Wilko > > On Feb 3, 2009, at 2:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > > A water pump and a mechanical fan need a fair amount of power to be > > driven. They are not perpetu|m mobilae, so that power needs to come > > from somewhere: ultimately the engine, and it does not make any > > difference if that is through the alternator/dynamo and battery. So > > the power needed for the alternator that will feed the battery and > > powers the water pump will not be available to drive the wheels. > > Simple mathematics. > > Kees Oudesluijs _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 00:33:36 2009 From: john spaur To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 22:56:41 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Head On the MKII 3000 engine the valve cover bolts are the lifting points, I would suspect it would be the same for the 100/4. John At 08:35 PM 2/4/2009 +0100, Oudesluys wrote: >henry schreef: >>Hello List: >> >>I am getting ready to remove my 100/4 engine. With all the talk of .... >>What about using the 2 valve cover bolts? >> >>Thanks _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 00:41:46 2009 From: To: Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 08:40:46 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator/voltage stabilizer Patrick, Just for my knowledge, you say a 1947 Healey Duncan was fitted with a voltage stabilizer? How big was/is this device? Its just, because I cannot believe that cars in 1947 were fitted with semiconductor voltage stabilizers. But I am sure you are right, just wondering. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Quinn, Patrick [mailto:Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au] Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 23:21 An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys@autox.team.net Betreff: RE: [Healeys] positive ground alternator G'day Don't you just love pedants? It's the way they get about with that smarmy look on their faces that make me feel like donging them on the head. Healeys were fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments, but Austin-Healeys were never fitted with either. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon - fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 - never fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and instruments -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com Sent: Wednesday, 4 February 2009 11:37 PM To: Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator Kees, Healeys do not have a voltage stabilizer installed and no Jaeger clocks. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Oudesluys Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 13:22 An: Alan Seigrist Cc: Austin Healey Betreff: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get damaged. Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage stabilizer if fitted. Kees Oudesluijs _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 00:48:55 2009 From: sebring@illawarra.hotkey.net.au To: Rich C Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 18:48:08 +1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 Solution Have wires on the right hand side and park accordingly at Rich's place and wires on your side when you walk upto you pride and joy to drive off. Benefits are it is reversible and both left and right side occupants can hang their heads out and be mesmerised by those flashing 'leftsideundos' and 'rightsideundos' Cheers Quoting Rich C : > Ewww!!!! (That means something like yuck!) > > I know, to each their own. Flame suit on. > > Rich Chrysler > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 6:49 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilites for 100 > > >> Has anyone have some imput on?why I haven't see them on a BN2? >> _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html[1] > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys[2] > > You are subscribed as sebring@illawarra.hotkey.net.au > > http://www.team.net/archive[3] > Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [3] http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 01:02:07 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 09:01:17 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator/voltage stabilizer It is a small metal box about 35x15mm. It is not a semiconductor but some bimetallic device that stabilises more or less on 10V. Kees Oudesluijs Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com schreef: > Patrick, > Just for my knowledge, you say a 1947 Healey Duncan was fitted with a voltage > stabilizer? How big was/is this device? Its just, because I cannot believe > that cars in 1947 were fitted with semiconductor voltage stabilizers. > But I am sure you are right, just wondering. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: Quinn, Patrick [mailto:Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au] > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 23:21 > An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys@autox.team.net > Betreff: RE: [Healeys] positive ground alternator > > G'day > > Don't you just love pedants? It's the way they get about with that smarmy look > on their faces that make me feel like donging them on the head. > > Healeys were fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks and > instruments, but Austin-Healeys were never fitted with either. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon - fitted with voltage stabilisers and Jaeger clocks > and instruments > 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 - never fitted with voltage stabilisers and > Jaeger clocks and instruments > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com > Sent: Wednesday, 4 February 2009 11:37 PM > To: Healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator > > Kees, > Healeys do not have a voltage stabilizer installed and no Jaeger clocks. > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Oudesluys > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 4. Februar 2009 13:22 > An: Alan Seigrist > Cc: Austin Healey > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator > > However it may be possible that some instruments will not work or get > damaged. > Notably the clock if that is a Smiths/Jaeger affair and probably the voltage > stabilizer if fitted. > Kees Oudesluijs > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 04:18:57 2009 From: andy pole To: , Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 11:18:05 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator/voltage stabilizer I believe the old lucas stabilisers (which are bi-metallic contacts) work by trying to keep a constant 10v, this they do by taking an average (rms) of supply voltage (12-13ish volts) against time, giving the 10v as the 'points' constantly chatter open and closed. Cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ Love Hotmail? Check out the new services from Windows Live! http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/132630768/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 04:27:28 2009 From: john doe To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 03:26:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] motor rebuild looking to rebuild a 3000 motor but looking to get more hp out of it what are the available options without putting in a cam that would make a rough idle any articles out there _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 08:01:53 2009 From: "M Lempert" To: , "Healey List" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 10:00:54 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] ebay Steering Wheel Warning Thanks to all for your comments, especially Mark Goodman for sharing his knowledge of the ebay seller. I discovered last night why I was having a case of dij` vu; I had done a signature comparison on a similar, but not the same, wheel two years ago. That wheel had the very same signature as the wheel in question today. This can be looked at two ways and I'm not sure which would be correct. Either there was a second signature used, or it's a counterfeit that was done more than once, probably many times more than once - getting to Alan's point of period counterfeiting. The best I can tell, the original signature looks to have been pressed, not engraved, although I could be wrong. The questionable signature was also likely to have been pressed, but definitely not personally hand engraved by Moss. The LL stamping was just that, stamped. All of this aside, and because of Mark's voucher, I withdraw my caution of the seller and apologize to the gentleman. Those who are familiar with ebay and the scams that go on will understand why the auction was suspicious. Since this one was marketing to Healey people, I chose to warn my friends. Regards, Mike L. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Blair" I am not a wheel expert, but this is not the normal Stirling Moss signature - I know Moss and have several original sigs in my posession. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 08:22:12 2009 From: "Mark Goodman" To: "'M Lempert'" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 10:21:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] withdrawal of Caution Dear Mike, I am glad that you have chosen to withdraw your caution on Bob Millstein. I spoke to Bob Millstein about the wheel that was sold and then reappeared. He said that the buyer was not aware that the wheel needed reconditioning, and even though it was a buy it now, Bob gave the man all his money back and put it back on ebay. He said that the signature was stamped on the wheel and that he has seen it on several wheels just like that. I know that he does have several personal letters written to him from Sir Sterling Moss, so he does have original copies of his signature on them. Sincerely, Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 08:56:50 2009 From: Stephen Hutchings To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 10:56:01 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Item on ebay I haven't been following this thread closely, but I looked at the signature comparison, and then I looked at my Les Leston Stirling Moss wheel ( purchased new from the Les Leston shop in London by my uncle back in the early sixties), and the signature looks the same as the engraved sample on Mike's site. Right down to the extra little tick to the left of the "t". I think they came up with a sort of "average" that would engrave well. I know nothing about the individual item, but the photo of the engraving is from a real Les Leston "Moss" wheel. Stephen, BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 10:42:27 2009 From: Bob Spidell To: Bob Johnson Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 17:41:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive False (again, the Law of Conservation of Energy: there are no freebies). This is expressed in the concept of 'load.' The load on the alternator increases or decreases depending on the electrical demands placed on it. At cruise, the load on the alternator--this applies to generators, too--is more or less stable. Turn on the lights, and the load, or power demand on the alternator increases by the power needed by the lights. The alternator needs to produce more power, measured in watts, to power the engine plus the lights (the voltage regulator, which controls power to the rotor of an alternator--or to the field coils of a generator--will supply the extra 'feed' current). This additional power, measured (usually) in HP, comes from the engine. There are conversion factors that convert HP to watts, to BTUs and any other measure of energy and back. If you track it carefully, you will find that your mileage is less at night with the lights on than during the day (not much, but measurable, esp. in a low-powered auto). ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Johnson" To: "Oudesluys" Cc: "Bob Spidell" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 8:24:29 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive There is an implication here, I believe, that the greater the power requirement, the harder it is to spin the generator/ alternator. Isn't the relationship between the engine and the gen/alt a fixed relationship between the pulleys? And following that, the the regulator controls the amount of electrical output as required to run whatever you are trying to run on your vehicle? I don't know, but it just seems logical to me that the motor turns, the gen/alt turns and the horsepower to do this work would be essentially constant regardless of electrical power requirements. If you take the mechanical water pump out of the system you would save hp requirement for the engine, IOW the engine would spin more easily. Then the electrical water pump, while requiring hp to run the pump motor would be "free" because more electricity would be released by the regulating system. It was always being produced, just not being used. Is this true or false? Bob Johnson BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 10:43:07 2009 From: Bob Spidell To: Bob Johnson Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 17:41:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive An analogy is an air conditioning compressor. With A/C off, at idle, the compressor is not pushing refrigerant through the system. Turn the A/C on, and the compressor has to push the refrigerant through the system, the load on the engine increases and the idle speed will drop (modern cars compensate with the idle control valve/solenoid, so usually you don't get the drop). Similarly, when the load on an alter/generator increases, the unit is required to push more electrons through the resistance of the load. If you were turning the alternator by hand, you would feel more and more resistance--more effort required, i.e. more HP--to turn the alternator, at the same speed, as the load increases. Since the power output of an engine is more-or-less fixed, there will be less HP at the driven wheels when you have more electrical accessories running. Actually, electrically-driven accessories are LESS efficient than engine-driven accessories. Let's say the alternator is 90% efficient (it probably isn't), and a typical electric motor is 90% efficient (again, probably optimistic). Since the two are in series--and belt friction/slippage and the inefficiencies of the fan or impeller are a wash with mechanically-driven accessories, basically--the efficiency of the two is .9 times .9, or roughly 80%. Hence, the electrically-driven accessories would be roughly 20% less efficient, all else being equal. Again, the value of the electrics is the ability to cut or reduce the power to the motors when not needed. Also, you can crank up the fan motor at idle--when the engine is turning slowly and cars are more inclined to overheat--to keep the engine temps down. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Johnson" To: "Oudesluys" Cc: "Bob Spidell" , "healeys" Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 8:24:29 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive There is an implication here, I believe, that the greater the power requirement, the harder it is to spin the generator/ alternator. Isn't the relationship between the engine and the gen/alt a fixed relationship between the pulleys? And following that, the the regulator controls the amount of electrical output as required to run whatever you are trying to run on your vehicle? I don't know, but it just seems logical to me that the motor turns, the gen/alt turns and the horsepower to do this work would be essentially constant regardless of electrical power requirements. If you take the mechanical water pump out of the system you would save hp requirement for the engine, IOW the engine would spin more easily. Then the electrical water pump, while requiring hp to run the pump motor would be "free" because more electricity would be released by the regulating system. It was always being produced, just not being used. Is this true or false? Bob Johnson BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 11:47:35 2009 From: gilbert gauthier To: HEALEY MAIL Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:46:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] web site AHCA Just to let you know about the new look of their web site Great looking Bravo Cole Gilbert _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 11:54:01 2009 From: TERRY COLL To: Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:53:04 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Interesting thread. Would anyone happen to have a source/part # for an electric radiator fan that works well in a BJ8? Thanks and regards, Terry Coll '64 BJ8 _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_02200 9 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 11:54:15 2009 From: Bob Johnson To: Bob Spidell , Healeys Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:53:09 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > OK. Thanks for the explanation. This is the part that I was surprised to > learn: > If you were turning the alternator by hand, you would feel more and more resistance--more effort required, i.e. more HP--to turn the alternator, at the same speed, as the load increases. Since the power output of an engine is more-or-less fixed, there will be less HP at the driven wheels when you have more electrical accessories running. Bob Johnson BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 12:06:16 2009 From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" To: "TERRY COLL" , Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 19:01:35 -0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Hi Terry, I fitted one of the following fans to my BJ8 a couple of years ago and it has been a excellent addition to the car. Please see the following link: http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=12725 Kindest Regards Tom Tom McCay Director Classic-Car-World Ltd 32 Washingborough Road Heighington Lincoln LN4 1RE 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 705 9115 (fax) enquiries@ccw-tools.com www.ccw-tools.com Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road Heighington Lincoln LN4 1RE. Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with company number 3930761. VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 ----- Original Message ----- From: "TERRY COLL" To: Cc: "austin healey" Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 6:53 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive > Interesting thread. Would anyone happen to have a source/part # for an > electric radiator fan that works well in a BJ8? > > Thanks and regards, > > Terry Coll '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 13:43:14 2009 From: "Peter Linn" To: Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 06:42:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors G'day list I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian Deisgn rules because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" mirrors - what's the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door has holes at the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is going to be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the passenger side) Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Ward Spl coupe BN1 V6 Holden _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 14:07:45 2009 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: healeys List Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:06:47 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors IMHO, They work best when just ahead of the windscreen as seen on my car ( http://ewilkins.com/wilko ). Way out over the wheel arch is too far forward, and on the doors requires to much head turning to get a look behind you. Wilko San Diego On Feb 5, 2009, at 12:42 PM, Peter Linn wrote: > G'day list > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian > Deisgn rules > because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" > mirrors - what's > the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door > has holes at > the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is > going to > be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the > passenger side) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 14:14:56 2009 From: David Nock To: rccpl1@yahoo.com Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:13:59 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] motor rebuild There are many upgrades that can be done depending on what you want to put into it. Light flywheel Will allow the engine to rev up much easier, increase horse power, less load on engine Light Pistons Less spinning weight more power Performance Cam This is the heart of the performance, there are several options here and you will still have a good idle Headers Any time you make power you have to get the exhaust out headers will allow the exhaust to get out faster, this will also help pull in fresh air fuel mixture Aluminium Head Less weight, flows better but very pricey When doing the machine work to the motor you should balance the motor, line bore block, align rods, deck block and head, Fit guides and stainless valves and seats. The cylinder head you can do some polish work to the intake and exhaust ports. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Feb 5, 2009, at 3:26 AM, john doe wrote: > looking to rebuild a 3000 motor but looking to get more hp out of > it what are the available options without putting in a cam that > would make a rough idle any articles out there > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc@sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 15:22:31 2009 From: "rjhco" To: "'austin healey'" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 16:21:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] electrc fan experience I had an electric fan (similar to the one referenced from classic Car World but from Vintage Air) mounted in front of the radiator as a pusher. It worked very well for city driving but at high speeds the pancake motor blocked too much air to cool the hard working engine coolant. A puller fan is much, much better. I did not have room behind the radiator, between the water pump pulley and cooling fins, to mount the fan with pancake motor. To solve the issue, I installed a 'sidewinder' electric fan behind the radiator. The sidewinder style has the electric motor mounted off to the side with an enclosed cog belt running the fan. I clocked the fan so that the motor sits on the lower left side of the engine. The location required a short extension of the lower water hose to place the hose behind the fan motor. The unit that I am using employs a 16" fan with a built in cast aluminum shroud. On a hot day, When the fan engages, the fan motor runs less than a minute to cool down the temperature enough to shut down. It produces a hurricane. The motor draws 19 amps. The engine stays cool at high speeds without the fan running. Best regards, Jim Hockert Dallas, TX BJ8 Open roads car _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 15:58:16 2009 From: gardner5@comcast.net To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 22:57:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors My advice is don't muck-up the clean lines of your car or your body work by adding bullet mirrors.B Go to Cape International's website ( www.cape-international.com ), click on mirrors, look at item RVM100.B You'll see how you can use the existingB knob on your windscreen to add the mirror, and they work great. Simple solution. Joel BN2 B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: "healeys List" Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 1:06:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors IMHO, They work best when just ahead of the windscreen as seen on my B car ( http://ewilkins.com/wilko ). Way out over the wheel arch is too far forward, and on the doors B requires to much head turning to get a look behind you. Wilko San Diego On Feb 5, 2009, at 12:42 PM, Peter Linn wrote: > G'day list > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian B > Deisgn rules > because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" B > mirrors - what's > the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door B > has holes at > the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is B > going to > be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the B > passenger side) Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as gardner5@comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 16:05:39 2009 From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: "TERRY COLL" , Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 10:05:00 +1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive G'day Of course while we have all been conjugating on the advantage of mechanical energy over electrical we have perhaps forgotten about what is the true advantage of using a computerised electric water pump and electric fan system. Once the temperature is set by the user it is then maintained through a more rapid (or slower) flow of coolant by the pump and cooling by the fan. Providing the engine/radiator are in good condition the engine reaches operating temperature more quickly and stays there, no matter the driving conditions. As the pump continues after the engine is shut down to the previously set temperature it also eliminates hotspot cavitation. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY COLL Sent: Friday, 6 February 2009 5:53 AM To: bspidell@comcast.net Cc: austin healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Interesting thread. Would anyone happen to have a source/part # for an electric radiator fan that works well in a BJ8? Thanks and regards, Terry Coll '64 BJ8 _________________________________________________________________ ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 16:41:40 2009 From: Bob Spidell To: Patrick Quinn Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 23:40:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive Agreed (I did mention that the advantage of electric accessories is the ability to reduce or cut power to the motors as required). This would be a good use of the excess computing power available in our Healeys ;) My main point is that it takes the (essentially) the same power to drive the pump and/or fan, whether it comes from the engine directly or is converted to electricity by the alternator, and that from a strictly efficiency standpoint the conversion losses in the alternator and motors are not inconsequential. Of course, due to the reverse Coriolis Effect down under the power flows INTO the alternator from the motors, a HUGE advantage. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Quinn" To: "TERRY COLL" , bspidell@comcast.net Cc: "austin healey" Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 3:05:00 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive G'day Of course while we have all been conjugating on the advantage of mechanical energy over electrical we have perhaps forgotten about what is the true advantage of using a computerised electric water pump and electric fan system. Once the temperature is set by the user it is then maintained through a more rapid (or slower) flow of coolant by the pump and cooling by the fan. Providing the engine/radiator are in good condition the engine reaches operating temperature more quickly and stays there, no matter the driving conditions. As the pump continues after the engine is shut down to the previously set temperature it also eliminates hotspot cavitation. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 16:44:51 2009 From: Sid Shadle To: gardner5@comcast.net Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 15:44:18 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors I agree: why put holes in the sheet metal? I currently have a mirror (from Harley Davidson thru British Car Specialists) mounted on me BN2 as Joel suggests - works great, *looks awful*. But at least the sheet metal doesn't suffer. Since I never use my side curtains (even with the hood raised), I am wondering if anyone has tried mounting mirrors in the side curtain mounting hole and, if so, how and what is involved? Sid On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 2:57 PM, wrote: > My advice is don't muck-up the clean lines of your car or your body work by > adding bullet mirrors.B > > Go to Cape International's website ( www.cape-international.com ), click > on > mirrors, look at item RVM100.B You'll see how you can use the existingB > knob > on your windscreen to add the mirror, and they work great. Simple solution. > > > > Joel > > BN2 > > B > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" > To: "healeys List" > Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 1:06:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors > > IMHO, They work best when just ahead of the windscreen as seen on my B > car ( http://ewilkins.com/wilko ). > > Way out over the wheel arch is too far forward, and on the doors B > requires to much head turning to get a look behind you. > > Wilko > San Diego > > On Feb 5, 2009, at 12:42 PM, Peter Linn wrote: > > > G'day list > > > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian B > > Deisgn rules > > because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" B > > mirrors - what's > > the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door B > > has holes at > > the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is B > > going to > > be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the B > > passenger side) > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as gardner5@comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as sshadle@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 17:09:57 2009 From: Marvin James To: Sid Shadle Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 17:08:44 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors Easy on 6 cyl sidecurtain cars. On my early BN1 I had to extent the threaded stud and drill the hole in the door through. Then it works great. I can e-mail pictures if anyone wants to see it. They're only $20 at the HD store. I was the only guy in the store without piercings and tatoos. Marv J On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 4:44 PM, Sid Shadle wrote: > I agree: why put holes in the sheet metal? > > I currently have a mirror (from Harley Davidson thru British Car > Specialists) mounted on me BN2 as Joel suggests - works great, *looks > awful*. > But at least the sheet metal doesn't suffer. > > Since I never use my side curtains (even with the hood raised), I am > wondering if anyone has tried mounting mirrors in the side curtain mounting > hole and, if so, how and what is involved? > > Sid > > On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 2:57 PM, wrote: > > > My advice is don't muck-up the clean lines of your car or your body work > by > > adding bullet mirrors.B > > > > Go to Cape International's website ( www.cape-international.com ), click > > on > > mirrors, look at item RVM100.B You'll see how you can use the existingB > > knob > > on your windscreen to add the mirror, and they work great. Simple > solution. > > > > > > > > Joel > > > > BN2 > > > > B > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" > > To: "healeys List" > > Sent: Thursday, February 5, 2009 1:06:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors > > > > IMHO, They work best when just ahead of the windscreen as seen on my B > > car ( http://ewilkins.com/wilko ). > > > > Way out over the wheel arch is too far forward, and on the doors B > > requires to much head turning to get a look behind you. > > > > Wilko > > San Diego > > > > On Feb 5, 2009, at 12:42 PM, Peter Linn wrote: > > > > > G'day list > > > > > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian B > > > Deisgn rules > > > because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" B > > > mirrors - what's > > > the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door B > > > has holes at > > > the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is B > > > going to > > > be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the B > > > passenger side) > > Healeys@autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as gardner5@comcast.net > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Healeys@autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > You are subscribed as sshadle@gmail.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as britcrs@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 17:47:27 2009 From: "Ronald J. Ray" To: "Sid Shadle" , Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 18:46:06 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors I use the round Harley mirrors (part nos. 91931-92T and 91930-92T) that look almost identical to the Lucas mirrors. They were $13.50 each in 2005 at the local Harley dealer. The do have "Harley Davidson" stamped on the mounting arm but one has to look real close to see it. They mount in the side curtain holes on my 3000 BT7 using the original side curtain wing nuts to hold them in place, as the thread matches.. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Sid Shadle Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 5:44 PM To: gardner5@comcast.net Cc: healeys List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors I agree: why put holes in the sheet metal? I currently have a mirror (from Harley Davidson thru British Car Specialists) mounted on me BN2 as Joel suggests - works great, *looks awful*. But at least the sheet metal doesn't suffer. Since I never use my side curtains (even with the hood raised), I am wondering if anyone has tried mounting mirrors in the side curtain mounting hole and, if so, how and what is involved? Sid _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 18:10:27 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Peter Linn Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 09:09:35 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors Hi Peter - On my BN1, I installed Cape's mirror which installs on the knurled windshield fixing nut. These mirrors work great because even with the side curtains on the car, they don't interfere with the mirror. http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=29&thepart=16183 The best part about these things are, after your inspection, you can just take them off in 5 minutes if you are so inclined. I wouldn't want to drill holes in anything on my BN1! Best, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 4:42 AM, Peter Linn wrote: > G'day list > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian Deisgn > rules > because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass "bullet" mirrors - > what's > the wisdom on the best place to position these? The driver's door has holes > at > the front just below the curve of the top, but I'm not sure this is going > to > be the most suitable position (and would be useless on the passenger side) > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > BN1 Ward Spl coupe > BN1 V6 Holden _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 18:12:20 2009 From: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com> To: andy pole Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 19:11:50 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey at the races, rallies photos Sorry to dig an old thread up, but I was wondering if anyone would share some good photos of this type that are high enough resolution to blow up to 8X10 or even 11x14. I just got a new office and wanted to put Healey photos up either on the race or in race trim. Modern pics would be great if they have a vintage feel. I know these would be really big scans, but this email address can take them (one at a time) if you are willing to share. Thanks Patton On Thu, Jan 1, 2009 at 2:58 PM, andy pole wrote: > Happy New Year to Everyone, > > I was just browsing Healey web images as I fancy renewing my fine art skills > and fancy doing a series of Paintings and came across these for those that > have not seen them: > > http://www.healeymeetslemans.nl/home.php?nb=his_fot&alb=historie&overview=0 > > must be every rally, race,etc photo ever taken, enjoy! -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." 1977 Newport '28 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 18:23:15 2009 From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: "Patton Dickson" <57healey@gmail.com>, "andy pole" Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 12:22:12 +1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey at the races, rallies photos G'day Patton I have lots of new ones, as long as you don't mind RHD. Great pics of AHs racing at Bathurst and in high resolution too. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patton Dickson Sent: Friday, 6 February 2009 12:12 PM To: andy pole Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey at the races, rallies photos Sorry to dig an old thread up, but I was wondering if anyone would share some good photos of this type that are high enough resolution to blow up to 8X10 or even 11x14. I just got a new office and wanted to put Healey photos up either on the race or in race trim. Modern pics would be great if they have a vintage feel. I know these would be really big scans, but this email address can take them (one at a time) if you are willing to share. Thanks Patton On Thu, Jan 1, 2009 at 2:58 PM, andy pole wrote: > Happy New Year to Everyone, > > I was just browsing Healey web images as I fancy renewing my fine art skills > and fancy doing a series of Paintings and came across these for those that > have not seen them: > > http://www.healeymeetslemans.nl/home.php?nb=his_fot&alb=historie&overvie w=0 > > must be every rally, race,etc photo ever taken, enjoy! -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." 1977 Newport '28 Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as patrick.quinn@det.nsw.edu.au http://www.team.net/archive ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 18:30:13 2009 From: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com> To: "Quinn, Patrick" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 19:29:26 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey at the races, rallies photos New is fine, I just don't want something to place it as modern (like racing a miata). Send me a few of your favorites if you don't mind. Thanks Patton On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 7:22 PM, Quinn, Patrick wrote: > G'day Patton > > I have lots of new ones, as long as you don't mind RHD. Great pics of > AHs racing at Bathurst and in high resolution too. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patton Dickson > Sent: Friday, 6 February 2009 12:12 PM > To: andy pole > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey at the races, rallies photos > > Sorry to dig an old thread up, but I was wondering if anyone would > share some good photos of this type that are high enough resolution to > blow up to 8X10 or even 11x14. I just got a new office and wanted to > put Healey photos up either on the race or in race trim. Modern pics > would be great if they have a vintage feel. > > I know these would be really big scans, but this email address can > take them (one at a time) if you are willing to share. > > Thanks > Patton > > On Thu, Jan 1, 2009 at 2:58 PM, andy pole wrote: >> Happy New Year to Everyone, >> >> I was just browsing Healey web images as I fancy renewing my fine art > skills >> and fancy doing a series of Paintings and came across these for those > that >> have not seen them: >> >> > http://www.healeymeetslemans.nl/home.php?nb=his_fot&alb=historie&overvie > w=0 >> >> must be every rally, race,etc photo ever taken, enjoy! > > > -- > Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX > 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." > 1977 Newport '28 > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as patrick.quinn@det.nsw.edu.au > > http://www.team.net/archive > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as 57healey@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Patton Dickson - http://Austin-Healeys.com - Plano, TX 1957 Austin-Healey 100-Six "Built to run 'til the road wears out." 1977 Newport '28 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 18:44:48 2009 From: "Rich C" To: "Healeys" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 20:44:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Spiral Bevel Diff Parts Hello Listers, I'm working on a BN1 with the early Austin spiral bevel axle assembly. In stripping this unit down, which has been in storage after some amateur P.O. restoration work some 3 decades ago, I find the pinion is extremely stiff to turn. Further investigation upon dismantling reveals that a National oil seal showing "made in U.S.A." and a new front diff pinion bearing showing "SKF Germany" tells me sombody's been here before! Digging deeper, there are no shims for the bevel pinion at all. These of course are needed to adjust for the proper pinion end float. I am having a problem finding a supplier for these shims. Original part numbers are: .003" thick shim part number 1G 7261 .005" thick shim part number 1G 7262 I must also add that this assembly has not been reused or reinstalled at all, so there is absolutely no damage done to anything YET. Hence my striping down to investigate the situation. Moral.....NEVER trust unknown P.O. work. Perhaps somebody can point me in the right direction as to where I can find these shims? Many thanks in advance. Rich Chrysler _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 19:11:04 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Rich C Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 10:10:01 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Spiral Bevel Diff Parts Rich - I just went through this exact exercise for my A90 - I literally searched the world for these shims and even called some poor guy in Switzerland who had bought a pile of NOS Healey diff parts from a shop in the UK. Of course he had nothing I could use, and probably thought I was batty. The upshot of all of my hard work was NO ONE had this stuff, and the best solution was to modify other shims or make your own. My guess is that shims used for 6 cyl front bearings might work? If not, there has to be a shop around that has lots of shims for some reason. In my case, I just reused the shims I had and, well, it's good enough for government work. By the way, I did find these guys, at the very least you could make up a bunch of the thinnest shims and stack them together to get the spacing you need: http://www.bokers.com/glwshr Actually, they have a little search thing on their website, if you can mic the shims you have, they might have something in stock very similar. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 9:44 AM, Rich C wrote: > Hello Listers, > > I'm working on a BN1 with the early Austin spiral bevel axle assembly. In > stripping this unit down, which has been in storage after some amateur P.O. > restoration work some 3 decades ago, I find the pinion is extremely stiff > to > turn. Further investigation upon dismantling reveals that a National oil > seal > showing "made in U.S.A." and a new front diff pinion bearing showing "SKF > Germany" tells me sombody's been here before! Digging deeper, there are no > shims for the bevel pinion at all. These of course are needed to adjust for > the proper pinion end float. I am having a problem finding a supplier for > these shims. > > Original part numbers are: > .003" thick shim part number 1G 7261 > .005" thick shim part number 1G 7262 > > I must also add that this assembly has not been reused or reinstalled at > all, > so there is absolutely no damage done to anything YET. Hence my striping > down > to investigate the situation. > Moral.....NEVER trust unknown P.O. work. > > Perhaps somebody can point me in the right direction as to where I can find > these shims? > > Many thanks in advance. > > Rich Chrysler _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 20:10:33 2009 From: "Michael Salter" To: "'Rich C'" , "'Healeys'" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 22:09:45 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Spiral Bevel Diff Parts Hi Rich, You may have already tried this but Spaenaur carry a very good selection of shim rings. http://www.spaenaur.com/view_pdf.asp?Page=D78 I usually select one with the correct I. D. and then trim the O.D. with shears to suit. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: February 5, 2009 8:44 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Spiral Bevel Diff Parts Hello Listers, I'm working on a BN1 with the early Austin spiral bevel axle assembly. In stripping this unit down, which has been in storage after some amateur P.O. restoration work some 3 decades ago, I find the pinion is extremely stiff to turn. Further investigation upon dismantling reveals that a National oil seal showing "made in U.S.A." and a new front diff pinion bearing showing "SKF Germany" tells me sombody's been here before! Digging deeper, there are no shims for the bevel pinion at all. These of course are needed to adjust for the proper pinion end float. I am having a problem finding a supplier for these shims. Original part numbers are: .003" thick shim part number 1G 7261 .005" thick shim part number 1G 7262 I must also add that this assembly has not been reused or reinstalled at all, so there is absolutely no damage done to anything YET. Hence my striping down to investigate the situation. Moral.....NEVER trust unknown P.O. work. Perhaps somebody can point me in the right direction as to where I can find these shims? Many thanks in advance. Rich Chrysler _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 5 23:50:51 2009 From: "Peter Linn" To: Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 16:49:30 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Side mirrors Thanks to all who made suggestions! I appreciate that drilling holes is to be avoided if possible, although I don't have a problem if (a) it's for a good reason and (b) I get them in the right place first time! I also quite like the look of bullet mirrors (aside from the fact that I already have them, & don't really want to fork out on others - the Cape ones are nice, but A$65.00 each plus freight! You can get those mirror heads separately & the brackets would be quite easy to make. I quite like the sidescreen socket option too - I may look at making a mount for the bullet mirrors to go in there. Cheers Peter Linn _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 00:10:54 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Peter Linn Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 15:10:02 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors Peter - Just remember one of the sides is a LH thread, don't remember which side! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 2:49 PM, Peter Linn wrote: > Thanks to all who made suggestions! I appreciate that drilling holes is to > be > avoided if possible, although I don't have a problem if (a) it's for a good > reason and (b) I get them in the right place first time! I also quite like > the > look of bullet mirrors (aside from the fact that I already have them, & > don't > really want to fork out on others - the Cape ones are nice, but A$65.00 > each > plus freight! You can get those mirror heads separately & the brackets > would > be quite easy to make. I quite like the sidescreen socket option too - I > may > look at making a mount for the bullet mirrors to go in there. > > Cheers > > Peter Linn _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 02:27:39 2009 From: John Harper To: Alan Seigrist Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 09:23:47 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors There is another thing to be careful of. The threads on your thumb screws might be BSF or UNF. It depends on the age of the car and if these are original or after market items. I had this problem but the supplier did not wish to know about it. Regards > >Just remember one of the sides is a LH thread, don't remember which side! > >Alan > >'52 A90 >'53 BN1 >'64 BJ8 > > -- John Harper _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 03:29:45 2009 From: To: , Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 11:28:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] WG: Side mirrors Hi Peter, You can do Cape-like mirrors cheaper and with a nicer design as they offer. I have just used an available round aftermarket LUCAS door mirror and bought an aftermarket knurled windshield fixing nut. Think available at MOSS or other dealers. You just need to drill a bigger hole in the fixing nut and tap threads in of same size as already in the mirror stem, think 3/16" UNF. Then Use a short threaded rod to fix the mirror to the windshield fixing nut. Put a rubber shim between nut and stem. For me that works for several years now and half price of what Cape charges. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Alan Seigrist Gesendet: Freitag, 6. Februar 2009 02:10 An: Peter Linn Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Side mirrors Hi Peter - On my BN1, I installed Cape's mirror which installs on the knurled windshield fixing nut. These mirrors work great because even with the side curtains on the car, they don't interfere with the mirror. http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=29&thepart=16183 The best part about these things are, after your inspection, you can just take them off in 5 minutes if you are so inclined. I wouldn't want to drill holes in anything on my BN1! Best, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 4:42 AM, Peter Linn wrote: > G'day list > > I have to fit mirrors to both sides of my 100 (to meet Australian > Deisgn rules because of the V6 motor) I have a pair of flat glass > "bullet" mirrors - what's the wisdom on the best place to position > these? The driver's door has holes at the front just below the curve > of the top, but I'm not sure this is going to be the most suitable > position (and would be useless on the passenger side) > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > BN1 Ward Spl coupe > BN1 V6 Holden Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as josef.eckert@t-systems.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 05:26:13 2009 From: "John Sims" To: "Healey List" Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 07:25:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] My Web Site I have built a new page to contain copies of Service Bulletins from the 60's. Very interesting items. My thanks to Sara Carr and Durl Edwards for giving these to me. There will be additional additions in the next couple of days now that I have plowed out my driveway. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 08:23:39 2009 From: Jim Ryan To: List Healey Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 10:22:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Tools -----Original Message----- From: Pete Muir Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 8:22 AM To: Jim Ryan Subject: Tools DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted part which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say,' What the...??'' ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-ups into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy-duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles with the speed of a ballistic missile for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK : Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FO [The entire original message is not included] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 10:08:04 2009 From: Tom Williams To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:07:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ This is the link from the national club's page. - Tom _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 10:29:17 2009 From: "BJ8Healeys" To: Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 12:28:32 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Kinda weird, huh? No idea what the problem is, but the webmaster for the Carolinas club is also the President of AHCA. You can reach Carl Brown at healey@salisbury.net. He might know wazzup, or if not he probably would like to know that something's going on with the URL. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Williams Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:07 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ This is the link from the national club's page. - Tom Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as sbyers@ec.rr.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 10:42:25 2009 From: "Taylor, Todd S" To: Healey list Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:41:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] remove trunnions Any body got any ideas on how to pop the trunnion off the king pins. Mine are frozen on. Can I use a wheel puller some how?? I don't want to wreck anything?? Heat?? I have to replace the bushings anyway. The Filcrum bolts are a bitch too.... Thanks ... _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 10:53:36 2009 From: "John Sims" To: "'Tom Williams'" , Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:21:53 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Try http://www.triadahc.org/ It is the location of the Triad Austin Healey Club in North Carolina. I do not know what happened to the other one. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Williams Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:07 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ This is the link from the national club's page. - Tom Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6@verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 11:00:54 2009 From: Jody Kerr To: John Sims Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 11:00:07 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Looks like they allowd the domain name to expire. There are people called "domain squatters" and they buy up expird domain names and put pages like that on them. Then, they will kindly sell you back your domain name for 5K. Bunch of w#nk@rs they are. So, if you own any domain names, check your registration for how long until it expires and renew it if it's less than a year. Jody On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 10:21 AM, John Sims wrote: > Try http://www.triadahc.org/ It is the location of the Triad Austin Healey > Club in North Carolina. I do not know what happened to the other one. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Tom Williams > Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:07 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > > Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: > http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ > > This is the link from the national club's page. > > - Tom > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ahbn6@verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 11:23:12 2009 From: "BJ8Healeys" To: Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 13:22:17 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website The Carolinas Chapter of AHCA has (had?) the website www.carolinahealeys.com. That club is based around Charlotte. The Triad chapter is based around Greensboro/Winston-Salem/High Point (the "triad") and is different from the Carolinas chapter. The Triad website is www.triadahc.org. Both chapters still exist and are active. Unfortunately, both are about 250 miles away from me. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6@verizon.net] Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 1:04 PM To: 'BJ8Healeys'; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Looks to me as if the URL may have been hijacked. Also, the site for the Triad club has not been updated in around three years SO - - - - - - who knows if they are still around. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:29 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Kinda weird, huh? No idea what the problem is, but the webmaster for the Carolinas club is also the President of AHCA. You can reach Carl Brown at healey@salisbury.net. He might know wazzup, or if not he probably would like to know that something's going on with the URL. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA ----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 11:27:06 2009 From: "John Sims" To: "'BJ8Healeys'" , Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 13:04:26 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Looks to me as if the URL may have been hijacked. Also, the site for the Triad club has not been updated in around three years SO - - - - - - who knows if they are still around. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:29 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Kinda weird, huh? No idea what the problem is, but the webmaster for the Carolinas club is also the President of AHCA. You can reach Carl Brown at healey@salisbury.net. He might know wazzup, or if not he probably would like to know that something's going on with the URL. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA ----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 11:27:24 2009 From: "Carl Brown" To: "BJ8Healeys" , Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 13:26:53 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website I am contacting the hosting site. They do not bill me for the domain name every year and let the registration expire. Will get the site back up and it looks like time to go to another hosting site. Carl Brown ----- Original Message ----- From: "BJ8Healeys" To: Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:28 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > Kinda weird, huh? > No idea what the problem is, but the webmaster for the Carolinas club is > also the President of AHCA. You can reach Carl Brown at > healey@salisbury.net. He might know wazzup, or if not he probably would > like to know that something's going on with the URL. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Tom Williams > Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:07 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > > Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: > http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ > > This is the link from the national club's page. > > - Tom > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as sbyers@ec.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey@salisbury.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 11:58:20 2009 From: "John Sims" To: "'Jody Kerr'" Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 13:39:09 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website OR --- with my service for my 7 sites, I take advantage of their automatic emails to me 60 days before expiration and I also take advantage of their program of automatically renewing my domain registrations. And, anal as I am, I check about every two months just for the H@#$ of it so I do not have that problem. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Jody Kerr [mailto:jodyfkerr@gmail.com] Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 1:00 PM To: John Sims Cc: Tom Williams; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website Looks like they allowd the domain name to expire. There are people called "domain squatters" and they buy up expird domain names and put pages like that on them. Then, they will kindly sell you back your domain name for 5K. Bunch of w#nk@rs they are. So, if you own any domain names, check your registration for how long until it expires and renew it if it's less than a year. Jody On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 10:21 AM, John Sims wrote: > Try http://www.triadahc.org/ It is the location of the Triad Austin Healey > Club in North Carolina. I do not know what happened to the other one. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Tom Williams > Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:07 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > > Anyone know what happened to the Carolina Healey's website: > http://www.carolinahealeys.com/ > > This is the link from the national club's page. > > - Tom > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as ahbn6@verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jodyfkerr@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jodyfkerr <--I'm selling parts on ebay! "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 12:47:15 2009 From: "Tom Rech" To: "'Healey list'" Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 13:46:18 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: remove trunnions The best way to remove the trunnions is with a hydraulic press. I would soak them in PB Blaster before putting them on the press. -----Original Message----- Taylor, Todd S Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 11:41 AM To: Healey list Subject: [Healeys] remove trunnions Any body got any ideas on how to pop the trunnion off the king pins. Mine are frozen on. Can I use a wheel puller some how?? I don't want to wreck anything?? Heat?? I have to replace the bushings anyway. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 13:31:37 2009 From: NPaul72464@aol.com To: ryan@jimryan.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 15:30:44 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools very funny and frighteningly true! Ned Paulsen Webster, NY In a message dated 2/6/2009 10:23:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, ryan@jimryan.com writes: -----Original Message----- From: Pete Muir Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 8:22 AM To: Jim Ryan Subject: Tools DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted part which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say,' What the...??'' ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-ups into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy-duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles with the speed of a ballistic missile for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK : Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FO [The entire original message is not included] Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as npaul72464@aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000001) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 13:54:45 2009 From: "Ed's Shop" To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 14:53:31 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: For Sale !!! For you dual Owners!! Already sent to Jensen List. Gentlemen: I have found in my "stuff" what has been ID'ed as for (possibly) an Interceptor, NOS Tail Light Lens. I am offering to you folks FIRST and before eBay & Craig's List!! Pics and Info in "LBC Parts for Sale" on my site. Regards... Ed Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 14:02:34 2009 From: "James Sailer" To: "Healey List" Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 14:02:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 BJ8 quarter light mirrors and driving lights Good day, Has anyone out there installed quarter light mirrors as used on some of the rally cars and have any opinions on them utility; places to get them etc.) or, good period door mirrors. I am simply not happy with my wing mounted mirrors. Also, I am going to install some driving auxiliary lights this winter so I am looking for the correct type of rally light and any thoughts on vendors. I almost hit a moose last year (at speed 2 ft away) and want some more light on the "subjects." Thanks very much. Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 14:19:35 2009 From: "gary brierton" To: "John Sims" , "healeys" Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 16:18:27 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website The Triad Club is "still around", have been since '79. We are struggling to get a new website up and running, while at the same time having a Hel heck of a time killing three old sites!! More info will be posted when we succeed. Gary Brierton Triad AHCA -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Sims" Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 1:04 PM To: "'BJ8Healeys'" ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > Looks to me as if the URL may have been hijacked. Also, the site for the > Triad club has not been updated in around three years SO - - - - - - who > knows if they are still around. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys > Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:29 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carolina Healeys Website > > Kinda weird, huh? > No idea what the problem is, but the webmaster for the Carolinas club is > also the President of AHCA. You can reach Carl Brown at > healey@salisbury.net. He might know wazzup, or if not he probably would > like to know that something's going on with the URL. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > ----- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as gbrierton@hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 14:36:32 2009 From: "Mal Bruce" To: Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 16:35:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] shock oil Gents, My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be ok. Thanks Mal _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 14:46:06 2009 From: Peter Caldwell To: "Mal Bruce" , Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 15:45:16 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil You're better off with a hydraulic oil as used for tractors and hydrostatic machines and hydraulic rams. Grade AWE68 (20W) It has antifoaming agents, etc. But engine oil will do in a pinch.... as will jack oil. Peter C = At 03:35 PM 2/6/2009, Mal Bruce wrote: >Gents, >My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is >fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be ok. >Thanks > >Mal _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 14:53:13 2009 From: gardner5@comcast.net To: Peter Caldwell Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 21:52:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil Try your local Harley Davidson shop. Joel BN2 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Caldwell" To: "Mal Bruce" , healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Friday, February 6, 2009 1:45:16 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil You're better off with a hydraulic oil as used for tractors and hydrostatic machines and hydraulic rams. Grade AWE68 B (20W) It has antifoaming agents, etc. B But engine oil will do in a pinch.... as will jack oil. B B B B B Peter C = At 03:35 PM 2/6/2009, Mal Bruce wrote: >Gents, >My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is >fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be ok. >Thanks > >Mal Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as gardner5@comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 15:13:37 2009 From: "G Vernau Sr" To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 16:09:20 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] remove trunnions- Todd Todd, I had to use a high speed cut off wheel to cut off the top part (threaded part) of the kingpin, before the trunnion would come off. Be careful not to damage the trunnion, you can buy new kingpins several places (some of dubious quality) but I don't know where you'll find the trunnion. Good luck, George Vernau Sr _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 15:22:17 2009 From: To: James Sailer , Healey List Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 14:21:36 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 BJ8 quarter light mirrors and driving lights A - Go negative ground (so you can go to an alternator) B - Change to an alternator for more output (brighter lights) C - Change to halogen standard or extra bright lights D - Install Lucas lights in cross eyed configuration. If you have the silly "no go - all show" triangle lights give them away and put real lights on the car. Save by arse on a few long (5000 mile) jaunts up and down the coast and through Canada. Just by having the alternator the lights will go from yellowish to brighter white. ---- James Sailer wrote: > Good day, > > Has anyone out there installed quarter light mirrors as used on some of the > rally cars and have any opinions on them utility; places to get them etc.) or, > good period door mirrors. > > I am simply not happy with my wing mounted mirrors. > > Also, I am going to install some driving auxiliary lights this winter so I am > looking for the correct type of rally light and any thoughts on vendors. I > almost hit a moose last year (at speed 2 ft away) and want some more light on > the "subjects." > > Thanks very much. > > Jim Sailer > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as bighealey@charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 16:28:50 2009 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: List Healey Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 15:27:57 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) I went online and found the rest: EIGHT-FOOT LONG 2 X 4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. 1/2" x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be used,as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal- burning power station 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last over-tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford and neatly rounds off their heads. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50" part. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. On Feb 6, 2009, at 7:22 AM, Jim Ryan wrote: > EIGHT-FO > > [The entire original message is not included] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 17:25:53 2009 From: John Loftus To: "'healeys@autox.team.net'" Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 16:24:39 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non-factory BJ8 hardtop for sale Thought I would offer this on the Healey List before advertising on Craig's list or through the local club. I don't want to hassle with shipping such a large item so it's only avail. for pickup in the Southern California region. It's a fiberglass Astro brand hardtop which came off a very original, one owner BJ8 (it appeared to be on this BJ8 for a long time). The round badge says "Fiberglass, Astro, S. El Monte". It needs to be restored but the fiberglass and rear plexiglass window are in good shape. Below is a link to a photo of the top. Can provide more photos if you are interested. $400. http://www.loftusdesign.net/astro_hardtop.jpg Cheers, John _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 18:24:38 2009 From: "John Soderling" To: , "Peter Caldwell" Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 17:23:32 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil I second this. They call it Fork Oil. Use their "heavy Duty" Fork Oil. Perfect for lever shocks. Vrooom vrooom, John ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Peter Caldwell" Cc: Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 1:52 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil > Try your local Harley Davidson shop. > > > > Joel > > BN2 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Caldwell" > To: "Mal Bruce" , healeys@autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, February 6, 2009 1:45:16 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil > > You're better off with a hydraulic oil as used for tractors and > hydrostatic machines and hydraulic rams. Grade AWE68 B (20W) It has > antifoaming agents, etc. B But engine oil will do in a pinch.... as > will jack oil. > > B B B B B Peter C > = > At 03:35 PM 2/6/2009, Mal Bruce wrote: >>Gents, >>My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is >>fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be >>ok. >>Thanks >> >>Mal _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 19:18:54 2009 From: "Dan Stromquist" To: Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 20:17:14 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. I might add it is also used to tenderize the meaty part of your thumb. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric (Rick) Wilkins Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 5:28 PM To: List Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) I went online and found the rest: EIGHT-FOOT LONG 2 X 4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. 1/2" x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be used,as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal- burning power station 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last over-tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford and neatly rounds off their heads. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50" part. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. On Feb 6, 2009, at 7:22 AM, Jim Ryan wrote: > EIGHT-FO > > [The entire original message is not included] Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as dan@warner-associates.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 19:42:36 2009 From: To: John Loftus , "'healeys@autox.team.net'" Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 21:41:42 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non-factory BJ8 hardtop for sale John, Well I have the east coast covered. I too have a nonfactory Htop for sale. It is a Parrish top of the period for a BJ8 and is in VG shape. Fiberglass, headliner and rear window no scratches or dings. Only needs the rubber seal kit which is available for $80 last I checked. Anybody looking for a Htop for a BJ8 I will meet you in eastern VA. $300 Keith Pennell > Thought I would offer this on the Healey List before advertising on > Craig's list or through the local club. I don't want to hassle with > shipping such a large item so it's only avail. for pickup in the > Southern California region. > > It's a fiberglass Astro brand hardtop which came off a very original, > one owner BJ8 (it appeared to be on this BJ8 for a long time). The round > badge says "Fiberglass, Astro, S. El Monte". > > It needs to be restored but the fiberglass and rear plexiglass window > are in good shape. Below is a link to a photo of the top. Can provide > more photos if you are interested. $400. > > http://www.loftusdesign.net/astro_hardtop.jpg > > Cheers, > John _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 19:47:12 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 10:46:36 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) This is how I have used this tool successfully in the past: THOR HAMMER: When completing a ground up restoration on an Austin Healey 3000, use this special tool to swing very hard at knock offs to get the wheels on so you can drive your car for the first time in 6 months. If you are in California during the summer, also be sure to be doing this work wearing sandals. Upon successfully misstriking the knock off, be sure to plunge copper end of hammer into big toe with full force, breaking the toe and causing substantial amounts of bleeding. Striking the toe in this manner will make driving the car impossible, not to mention walking for for about a week. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 7:27 AM, Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > I went online and found the rest: > > EIGHT-FOOT LONG 2 X 4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic > jack handle. > TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. > E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any > known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway. > TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength of > everything you forgot to disconnect. > 1/2" x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large pry bar that inexplicably has an > accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. > PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style > paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be > used,as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. > AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal- > burning power station 200 miles away and transforms it into > compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that > grips rusty bolts last over-tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford > and neatly rounds off their heads. > PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or > bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50" part. > HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays > is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts > not far from the object we are trying to hit. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 20:15:59 2009 From: "Ed's Shop" To: Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 21:15:15 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) <> er Dan, 'plain' old flat faced ones do NOT do NEAR a well enough job at accomplishing the above UNLESS said "tool" is a 28oz Waffle-faced (aka SERIOUS framing 'tool') swung with almost full forced 'ability' and making PERFECT "contact" !!!! BTDT (ONCE) and it gives entirely NEW meaning to 'meaty'!!!! I didn't at the time but can now just say !!!! Ed _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 20:40:58 2009 From: Jackson Krall To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 19:40:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Hardtop Available As long as we're on the subject, I have a Parrish BN7 hardtop I would like to trade for a Bugeye hardtop. I think we can consider it "in need of restoration". NYC/Hudson Valley location. Best JK _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 21:17:30 2009 From: "Greg Lemon" To: Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 22:13:52 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) All this talk of hammers reminded me of an oldie but goodie, and one of my favorites: http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/sst.html Greg Lemon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed's Shop" To: Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) > < part of your thumb.>> > > er Dan, 'plain' old flat faced ones do NOT do NEAR a > well enough job at accomplishing the above UNLESS > said "tool" is a 28oz Waffle-faced (aka SERIOUS > framing 'tool') swung with almost full forced 'ability' > and making PERFECT "contact" !!!! > > BTDT (ONCE) and it gives entirely NEW meaning to > 'meaty'!!!! > > I didn't at the time but can now just say !!!! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as glemon@neb.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 6 21:29:54 2009 From: Awgertoo@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 23:29:12 EST Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny A woman is arrested for shoplifting a bunch of six bananas--her third such offense in less than a year. She is tried and found guilty and before pronouncing sentence the judge asks her if she had any explanation, to which she replies: "I just like bananas". Angrily the judge sentences the woman to six months in jail--one month for each banana--when her husband suddenly stands up and says "She also stole some grapes!" Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 03:42:41 2009 From: caddi5@comcast.net To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 10:41:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Install fender vents Hello list, Has anyone installed front fender vents? I have steel fenders. They (vents) come in flanged or no flange,steel or alum. If anyone has performed this operation could you please walk me through it, which is the best flange type, any pics. would help big time as well......thanks a million!!! hopefully some day I can give someone some advice on Healeys.....heres a tibit I learned along the way, DON'T tell your wife how much you are spending on Healey parts (it is best to keep that to yourself) even if you do make some good buys.....lol Mitch 59 bn4 100/6 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 03:52:45 2009 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: "'healeys'" Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:51:31 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] AH Aero Screen G'day A friend is after an AH Aero Screen for a very special car. Does anyone have one they would be willing to part with? A reasonable number of $$$ of course. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 06:18:14 2009 From: "John Sims" To: "Healey List" Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 08:17:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What will they think of next Very interesting article in Today's New York Times ( actually Sundays but I get it on Saturday) about making motor oil out of beef tallow. Apparently the 50,000 cattle slaughtered daily just in the Oklahoma panhandle for food provides enough beef tallow to make enough motor oil to satisfy the country's needs. Question is how much petroleum is needed to process it. A certificating is pending from the American Petroleum Institute and is expected in a few weeks. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/08/automobiles/08BIO.html?ref=automobiles John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 06:23:06 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: John Sims Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:22:25 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What will they think of next I have a good friend in the UK who is making good money doing just this exact thing. He's been doing it for about 5 years, very successful. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 9:17 PM, John Sims wrote: > Very interesting article in Today's New York Times ( actually Sundays but I > get it on Saturday) about making motor oil out of beef tallow. Apparently > the 50,000 cattle slaughtered daily just in the Oklahoma panhandle for food > provides enough beef tallow to make enough motor oil to satisfy the > country's needs. Question is how much petroleum is needed to process it. A > certificating is pending from the American Petroleum Institute and is > expected in a few weeks. > > > > > > http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/08/automobiles/08BIO.html?ref=automobiles > > > > > > John Sims, BN6 > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 07:01:34 2009 From: "Mal Bruce" To: , "Peter Caldwell" Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 09:00:35 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil Thannks for all the replies on this topic. Mal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Caldwell" To: "Mal Bruce" ; Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 4:45 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil > You're better off with a hydraulic oil as used for tractors and > hydrostatic machines and hydraulic rams. Grade AWE68 (20W) It has > antifoaming agents, etc. But engine oil will do in a pinch.... as > will jack oil. > > Peter C > = > At 03:35 PM 2/6/2009, Mal Bruce wrote: >>Gents, >>My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is >>fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be >>ok. >>Thanks >> >>Mal > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.233 / Virus Database: 270.10.18/1937 - Release Date: 02/06/09 11:31:00 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 07:15:59 2009 From: To: Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 15:15:15 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Install fender vents Mitch, don4t do it or buy aftermarket fenders and put the originals aside and keep them in good shape. Its always a shame to cut holes in good original fenders. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY 54BN1, 62BT7, 65Sprite -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von caddi5@comcast.net Gesendet: Samstag, 7. Februar 2009 11:41 An: healeys@autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] Install fender vents Hello list, Has anyone installed front fender vents? I have steel fenders. They (vents) come in flanged or no flange,steel or alum. If anyone has performed this operation could you please walk me through it, which is the best flange type, any pics. would help big time as well......thanks a million!!! hopefully some day I can give someone some advice on Healeys.....heres a tibit I learned along the way, DON'T tell your wife how much you are spending on Healey parts (it is best to keep that to yourself) even if you do make some good buys.....lol Mitch 59 bn4 100/6 Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as josef.eckert@t-systems.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 08:06:23 2009 From: Patrick Yoas To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 07:05:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 & BJ8 HardTop - Texas area covered I have a new NOS Parris hardtop for sale., $.450.00 Still in original primer. Contact me for info. Patrick _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 08:12:44 2009 From: Warthodson@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 10:12:02 EST Subject: [Healeys] wiper gear box When correctly installed, is the gear (in the gear box) above or below the actuating cable (on a BJ7)? Gary **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 10:27:17 2009 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: "Healey List" Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 12:26:22 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What will they think of next Interesting, and if we can graze the cattle near an industrial area with good zinc fallout, perhaps the resulting oil will even be suitably formulated for our old cars! (or as an alternative perhaps we could add a ZZDP additive to the corn feed and achieve the same result). Mirek 60 BT7 From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 10:53:14 2009 From: Oudesluys To: rccpl1@yahoo.com Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 18:51:34 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] motor rebuild Triple Dell'Orto's/Webers 40/45 mm, venturi's around 35/38, larger SS valves, porting and balancing of the head, free flow exhaust, electronic ignition to start with. If you have to build up the engine from scratch, have the crank ground on very tight tolerances in all bearings, have it tuftrided, polished and balanced, balance and polish the piston rods increase oil pressure by using a high volume pump if that is available or rebuild and use shims under the relief valve spring. Use an electric oil pump to prime the system before starting up. Use an oil cooler with thermostat. Lighten the flywheel a little for a bit more accelleration allthough it does not provide extra BHP, do not over do it as you may wreck the gearbox, drive shaft and differential because of unsufficiently damped, by mass, vibrations. Kees Oudesluijs, NL From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 11:32:46 2009 From: STOCKLAND@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 13:31:50 EST Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks ago and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and took it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter was OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the solenoid was bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What would cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as if there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. Thanks in advance. Jon Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 11:35:18 2009 From: "Simon Lachlan" To: , Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 18:34:34 -0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Have you checked the earth connection....at both ends? Simon From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 11:49:45 2009 From: Oudesluys To: STOCKLAND@aol.com Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 19:48:53 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Check, clean and refit the battery connections, use a bit of petroleum jelly to avoid future corrosion. Also check the earthing strap and its connections, again clean and apply petroleum jelly or just plain rust preventive wax. Perhaps the starter solenoid contact points are burned. Take apart, inspect, clean and if to far gone repair the contact points with silver solder and file/sand until the complete surface of the points make contact when closed. Did this many times as a student when the budget was very, very low. Alternatively throw away and buy a new one. Kees Oudesluijs From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 12:08:46 2009 From: To: Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 20:01:18 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Hi Kees, can I send you the starter solenoid to take apart and repair? I have two or three of them and do not find the clue how to take them apart. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 12:45:13 2009 From: "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" To: Oudesluys Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 11:44:23 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] motor rebuild What about the 4 cylinder engine? What mods can it take? Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Triple Dell'Orto's/Webers 40/45 mm, venturi's around 35/38, larger SS > valves, porting and balancing of the head, free flow exhaust, electronic > ignition to start with. > If you have to build up the engine from scratch, have the crank ground on > very tight tolerances in all bearings, have it tuftrided, polished and > balanced, balance and polish the piston rods increase oil pressure by using > a high volume pump if that is available or rebuild and use shims under the > relief valve spring. Use an electric oil pump to prime the system before > starting up. Use an oil cooler with thermostat. > Lighten the flywheel a little for a bit more accelleration allthough it > does not provide extra BHP, do not over do it as you may wreck the gearbox, > drive shaft and differential because of unsufficiently damped, by mass, > vibrations. > Kees Oudesluijs, > NL > > john doe schreef: > >> looking to rebuild a 3000 motor but looking to get more hp out of it what >> are the available options without putting in a cam that would make a rough >> idle any articles out there _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rrengineer@dslextreme.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 13:13:05 2009 From: To: Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:11:59 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Another engine rebuild I am doing an engine rebuild on a 62 BT7 Tricarb engine. The car will be restored to concours condition. So no visual modification should be done at the engine; carbs, distributer to orig. spec. etc. To get max. power/torque out of the engine, is it better to stay with the original camshaft or to put in the BJ8 camshaft or other available. What is the best to do? Many thanks for all opinions. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany 54Bn1, 62BT7, 65Sprite _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 13:17:05 2009 From: To: healey help Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 15:16:34 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest) Alan; Did you forget that you probably had to wipe the blood of the Healey? Bill BJ7> Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 10:46:36 +0800> From: healey.nut@gmail.com> To: e-wilkins@cox.net> CC: healeys@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Tools (the rest)> > This is how I have used this tool successfully in the past:> > THOR HAMMER: When completing a ground up restoration on an Austin Healey> 3000, use this special tool to swing very hard at knock offs to get the> wheels on so you can drive your car for the first time in 6 months. If you> are in California during the summer, also be sure to be doing this work> wearing sandals. Upon successfully misstriking the knock off, be sure to> plunge copper end of hammer into big toe with full force, breaking the toe> and causing substantial amounts of bleeding. Striking the toe in this> manner will make driving the car impossible, not to mention walking for for> about a week.> > > Alan> > '52 A90> '53 BN1> '64 BJ8> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 13:21:13 2009 From: tomleavy@comcast.net To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 20:20:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Jamaican BN4 on EBAY Greetings- If anyone is interested, there is a Healey/Jamaican on Ebay. I spoke with the owner this morning, he says that the frame is ion pretty decent shape. Good price if your car needs an undercarriage. Just search "austin healey jamaican" No financial interest. Good luck. Tom _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 13:21:45 2009 From: Weston Keyes To: Ahealey Ahealey Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 15:21:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting new grille to bonnet BJ8 Hello Folks, I am attempting to fit a new grille to the opening in the bonnet of a BJ 8. The vendor who sold it to me said that it should be installed differently than the original. I didn't take this car apart so can't rely on experience. I can get it to go on the inside of the bonnet or the outside. The 3 studs from the top piece seem to line up either way. It looks better on the outside. Was the original installed from the inside? Thanks Wes Keyes York, Maine _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 13:43:32 2009 From: "Michael Salter" To: "'rrengineer @dslextreme.com'" Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 15:42:43 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] motor rebuild Here is somewhere to start!! http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=189 Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rrengineer @dslextreme.com Sent: February 7, 2009 2:44 PM To: Oudesluys Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] motor rebuild What about the 4 cylinder engine? What mods can it take? Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Triple Dell'Orto's/Webers 40/45 mm, venturi's around 35/38, larger SS > valves, porting and balancing of the head, free flow exhaust, electronic > ignition to start with. > If you have to build up the engine from scratch, have the crank ground on > very tight tolerances in all bearings, have it tuftrided, polished and > balanced, balance and polish the piston rods increase oil pressure by using > a high volume pump if that is available or rebuild and use shims under the > relief valve spring. Use an electric oil pump to prime the system before > starting up. Use an oil cooler with thermostat. > Lighten the flywheel a little for a bit more accelleration allthough it > does not provide extra BHP, do not over do it as you may wreck the gearbox, > drive shaft and differential because of unsufficiently damped, by mass, > vibrations. > Kees Oudesluijs, > NL > > john doe schreef: > >> looking to rebuild a 3000 motor but looking to get more hp out of it what >> are the available options without putting in a cam that would make a rough >> idle any articles out there >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rrengineer@dslextreme.com > > http://www.team.net/archive Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as msalter@precisionsportscar.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 13:54:46 2009 From: "Freese, Ken" To: Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 12:54:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 top riveting I tried riveting the 5/16 steel rivets today. No way with the air hammer I have(lenty good for aluminium rivets). Per old McMaster Carr catalogs a hammer good enough for 1/4 is pushing $500. Am I breaking new ground, trying to put in new rivets? What have others used? a sledgehammer? a machine shop? Ken Freese 65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 14:11:31 2009 From: "Michael Salter" To: , Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 16:10:43 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Jon, The fact that you get sparks when you short the solenoid terminals indicates that the starter motor is probably taking current (unless the cable from the solenoid to the starter is shorting to ground). If the motor has been checked then I would recommend ensuring that the engine turns freely. The symptoms you describe sound suspiciously like a tight or seized engine!! One other thing which can cause similar problems is the terminal post on the starter having turned while you were tightening the cable to it. If this happens the terminal can touch the case inside the starter. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STOCKLAND@aol.com Sent: February 7, 2009 1:32 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks ago and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and took it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter was OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the solenoid was bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What would cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as if there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. Thanks in advance. Jon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 15:17:54 2009 From: Oudesluys To: "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 23:12:56 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] motor rebuild The same really except two instead of 3 Dell'Orto's. Kees Oudesluijs rrengineer @dslextreme.com schreef: > What about the 4 cylinder engine? What mods can it take? > Mike MacLean > 56 BN2 > 60 AN5 > > On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Oudesluys > wrote: > > Triple Dell'Orto's/Webers 40/45 mm, venturi's around 35/38, larger > SS valves, porting and balancing of the head, free flow exhaust, > electronic ignition to start with. > If you have to build up the engine from scratch, have the crank > ground on very tight tolerances in all bearings, have it > tuftrided, polished and balanced, balance and polish the piston > rods increase oil pressure by using a high volume pump if that is > available or rebuild and use shims under the relief valve spring. > Use an electric oil pump to prime the system before starting up. > Use an oil cooler with thermostat. > Lighten the flywheel a little for a bit more accelleration > allthough it does not provide extra BHP, do not over do it as you > may wreck the gearbox, drive shaft and differential because of > unsufficiently damped, by mass, vibrations. > Kees Oudesluijs, > NL > > john doe schreef: > > looking to rebuild a 3000 motor but looking to get more hp out > of it what are the available options without putting in a cam > that would make a rough idle any articles out there > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as rrengineer@dslextreme.com > > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 15:18:28 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 23:16:24 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another engine rebuild Stay original. If you are going concours it is not likely that you will either thrash, race, drive fast or accelerate hard, so why bother? Kees Oudesluijs or Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com schreef: > I am doing an engine rebuild on a 62 BT7 Tricarb engine. The car will > be restored to concours condition. So no visual modification should be > done at the engine; carbs, distributer to orig. spec. etc. To get max. > power/torque out of the engine, is it better to stay with the original > camshaft or to put in the BJ8 camshaft or other available. What is the > best to do? > Many thanks for all opinions. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > 54Bn1, 62BT7, 65Sprite > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 15:41:30 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: STOCKLAND@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 17:40:42 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Simple: Clean your battery terminals, re tighten engine ground straps. On 2/8/09, STOCKLAND@aol.com wrote: > Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks > ago > and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid > would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and > took > it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter > was > OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. > Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the > solenoid was > bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is > though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is > bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What > would > cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as > if > there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. > > Thanks in advance. > > Jon > **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time > on > AOL Music. > (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 16:25:11 2009 From: "John Sims" To: "'Alan Seigrist'" , , Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 18:24:22 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 As Alan says, absolutely critical to make sure that your battery connections are clean and tight AND make sure that your engine ground strap connections are also clean and tight. An otherwise fully charged battery will not crank well if the ground strap is not installed correctly. To check to see if it is correctly installed, once the car is running, grab onto the carb linkeage and if you feel it hot and tingling, then your ground strap is not correct as the engine is grounding through the linkage (at least on my BN6 until I realized what was happening) John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 5:41 PM To: STOCKLAND@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Simple: Clean your battery terminals, re tighten engine ground straps. On 2/8/09, STOCKLAND@aol.com wrote: > Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks > ago > and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid > would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and > took > it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter > was > OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. > Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the > solenoid was > bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is > though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is > bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What > would > cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as > if > there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. > > Thanks in advance. > > Jon > **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time > on > AOL Music. > (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi0 0000003) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ahbn6@verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 16:58:49 2009 From: "Ed's Shop" To: Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 17:58:13 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 <<(at least on my BN6 until I realized what was happening)>> SOP on ALL LBCs I have ever worked on, John!! And IF the car has been idling a while, one CAN get a nasty burn from it!! BTDT! _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 17:35:17 2009 From: jerry wall To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 18:34:17 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] FOR SALE 2 SEATER ( BN6/BN7 ) COMPLETE TOP/HOOD FRAME black everflex hood w/grey liner covered wood bow the elusive 2 seater latches rear curved metal retainer even includes the metal "patent applied for" tag on rear bow fabric finger loop complete........$485 + shipping, estimate $25-35 most domestic locations communications or questions, off list. call 24/7 214 202-5179 reason for sale: newly restored factory hardtop is now installed for the duration. JERRY WALL BN6 ROWLETT, TX _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 17:41:22 2009 From: Norman Nock To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 16:40:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Jon ... when your solenoid clicks (not chatters) and the engine does not crank, turn on your head lights and try again , if you still have a NO-CRANK again tell me what the head lights do ... If the head lights do not go dim then you have a starter problem .. if the armature has an open circuit on one winding it will not crank when the brushes have stopped on that commutator segment ...do this ... remove the cover on the END of the starter and turn the armature 1/4 turn and try again , if it now cranks you have a faulty armature , the armature should have been tested on a tester called a growler ... Norman Nock TECH TALK by Norman Nock l have been writing technical articles for Healey clubs for over 25 years . After numerous requests , l have gathered them together, along with some never before published articles and had them spiral bound in book form $ 35.00 + $7.50 in USA 265 pages Updated Annually Both our catalogs are on line and can be down loaded www.BritishCarSpecialists.com 209 948 8767 Tech Talk SAMPLE PAGES ON LINE British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205 >. > The solenoid > would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed > the starter and took > it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was > told the starter was > OK. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 18:28:51 2009 From: "PG" To: "'healeys'" Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 17:28:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Planatary Gears Hi All, I'm assembling my overdrive. Before I mate the sun gear into the planetary carrier, there is a bronze bush that has to be inserted into the seat of the planetary carrier. There is no way this bronze bush is going into the carrier without removing one of the planet gears. Each planet gears seem to have one pin holding the shaft in place...I have no idea how to get this pin out to remove the shaft?????? Any and all help appreciated. Thanks Paul _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 19:50:09 2009 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 02:49:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Mystery Listers, My dad and I are reassembling our 100M. We have a puzzle I'm hoping someone might be able to help with: on our LHD car, there are 2 round holes where the brake and clutch pedals go through. Where the holes are is a raised part of the floorboard, and on the outside (engine bay side) are a couple of thread insert-type nuts. On the passenger side, it's clear these nuts are for a blanking panel with a felt seal, but it seems there should be something on the driver's side but we can't find a part nor a reference to it in the (Moss catalog). Does anyone know what, if anything, goes around the clutch and brake holes? There are small plates on the pedals on which rubber pads ('draft excluders') go, but these don't come near to sealing the 2 round holes (they don't come all the way up to the floorboard, either). It sure seems like there should be some sort of panel to help seal up the area around the pedals--anyone know what goes there? TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 19:52:36 2009 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: , Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 02:52:02 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Planatary Gears I'm looking at a spare carrier I have and it looks like the recess for the thrust washer is cut so that if the washer is of the correct size it will fit between the gears. Maybe you need to dress down the circumference of the washer. That would seem to be a lot simpler and the washer won't fit properly in the recess if it is too big anyway. Bill Lawrence > From: britishcars@shaw.ca> To: healeys@autox.team.net> Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 17:28:16 -0800> Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Planatary Gears> > Hi All,> > > > I'm assembling my overdrive.> > > > Before I mate the sun gear into the planetary carrier, there is a bronze> bush that has to be inserted into the seat of the planetary carrier. There> is no way this bronze bush is going into the carrier without removing one of> the planet gears.> > > > Each planet gears seem to have one pin holding the shaft in place...I have> no idea how to get this pin out to remove the shaft??????> > > > Any and all help appreciated.> > > > Thanks> > Paul> _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Healeys@autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > You are subscribed as ynotink@msn.com> > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 19:56:20 2009 From: Awgertoo@aol.com To: bspidell@comcast.net Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:55:37 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Mystery In a message dated 2/7/2009 9:49:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, bspidell@comcast.net writes: There are small plates on the pedals on which rubber pads ('draft excluders') go, but these don't come near to sealing the 2 round holes (they don't come all the way up to the floorboard, either). It sure seems like there should be some sort of panel to help seal up the area around the pedals-- Bob-- Hey this is a Healey 100 we're talking about! What's the sense of sealing up one hole only to have hot air leaking in another? I am not 100% certain but believe the "draft excluders" are all there was originally. They should come pretty close to the back side of the toe box when the pedals are up but I doubt they ever gave a perfect seal. Which reminds me of a joke: Question: How are a walrus and tupperware similar? Answer: They both like a tight seal. Best--Michael Oritt **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick. net/clk;211531132;33070124;e) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 22:43:55 2009 From: Bert Van Brande To: britishcars@shaw.ca, healeys@autox.team.net, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:43:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Planatary Gears You must have a 22% OD. On the 28% OD the planet carrier washer just slides in. (it did on mine, 28% for a BN2 OD) On the 22% OD The planetary gears are larger. You will need to drill out a pin to remove a gear. Detailed instructions in the excellent pdf's on various sites: Nelson Riedel's article can be found on John Simms site (5 pdf's): http://www.healey6.com/technical.htm or greasy hands garage guide to rebuild the OD (2 pdf's): http://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain-index.shtml On both sites scroll down to OD section for the articles. These articles focus on triumph A-type OD's but they are almost identical (accumulator piston is larger on most triumphs) Cheers, Bert www.austin-healey.org _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 7 22:44:32 2009 From: "Rod Shepherd" To: Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 15:43:32 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Derusting engines insitu _____ From: Rod Shepherd [mailto:rodshepherd@optusnet.com.au] Sent: Sunday, 8 February 2009 3:17 PM To: Healey List USA (healeys@aautox.team.net) Subject: Derusting engines insitu Hello fellow listers A question without notice - has anyone ever used a mixture of 1part molasses to 10 parts water to derust an engine in situ. A mate and I believe it should work as we have used this to desrust nuts, bolts and small components of our cars but, have never tried it in the way we propose. Any ideas out there? Rod Shepherd (The Beast back on the road again) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 01:31:16 2009 From: John Harper To: Bob Spidell Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:29:20 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Mystery Bob You should have a square plate approx. 6" x 3=" with the corners removed. The edges are turned in slightly to produce an approximate =" bevel on all four sides. There are holes top and bottom centre to take. I believe, 10-32 screws. A layer of felt is fitted under this plate to seal the edges. I believe that this plate was also fitted to Austin A40 and A70 saloons but I doubt that this information will help you. You should be able to find this part in the A-H parts list under floor fittings. Blanking plate 14B 2654 Felt 14B2655 Regards > >My dad and I are reassembling our 100M. We have a puzzle I'm hoping >someone might be able to help with: on our LHD car, there are 2 round >holes where the brake and clutch pedals go through. Where the holes are >is a raised part of the floorboard, and on the outside (engine bay >side) are a couple of thread insert-type nuts. On the passenger side, >it's clear these nuts are for a blanking panel with a felt seal, but it >seems there should be something on the driver's side but we can't find >a part nor a reference to it in the (Moss catalog). Does anyone know >what, if anything, goes around the clutch and brake holes? There are >small plates on the pedals on which rubber pads ('draft excluders') go, >but these don't come near to sealing the 2 round holes (they don't come >all the way up to the floorboard, either). It sure seems like there >should be some sort of panel to help seal up the area around the >pedals--anyone know what goes there? > -- John Harper _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 05:13:28 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Healey Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 20:12:03 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Look Ma ... I hit the motherlode! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-AC-COBRA-Original-ENOTS-3-5-ASTON-FUEL-FILLER-CAP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ34204QQihZ004QQitemZ140285048230QQtcZphoto Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 06:18:30 2009 From: "Michael Salter" To: "'Alan Seigrist'" , "'Healey'" Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:17:37 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Look Ma ... I hit the motherlode! If you look closely the body and clip of that cap are satin black powder coated. I had a couple like that and they are from military vehicles. This one has had the powder coating removed from the lid.. Just in case you wanted to know.... Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: February 8, 2009 7:12 AM To: Healey Subject: [Healeys] Look Ma ... I hit the motherlode! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-AC-COBRA-Original-ENOTS-3-5-ASTON-FUEL-FI LLER-CAP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ34204QQihZ 004QQitemZ140285048230QQtcZphoto Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 06:56:42 2009 From: "Mark Goodman" To: Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:55:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] STARTER PROBLEM Dear Jon, The problem with your starter is a short in the windings that only occurs when the starter heats up. I had that problem with mine. I decided that I would put in a gear reduction starter and have not had a problem since. Highly recommended from me. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinheaelyessence.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 07:50:36 2009 From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Healey" Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:49:47 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Look Ma ... I hit the motherlode! I always love the auctions of rare items "new and SEALED in factory package" or "never been out of the box" that show a bunch of pictures of the item out of the package. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-AC-COBRA-Original-ENOTS-3-5-ASTON-FUEL-FILLER-CAP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ34204QQihZ004QQitemZ140285048230QQtcZphoto _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 07:53:19 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Bob Spidell Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 22:52:40 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrc fan vs. belt drive All - Not to beat a dead horse, but the reality is you will usually be better off with an electric fan set up (if it actually keeps your car cool). With a pully mounted fan - technically it may be more efficient to use a pully mounted fan, but these are always on and always sapping power from your engine. This is even more the case at highway speeds when you really don't need a fan. An electric fan, however, will only come on when you need it, so by default it operates less often than a mechanical fan, meaning it will sap less power, esp. when you are going fast. Upside is a good electric fan should work when you need it the most - in hot stop and go traffic. You don't need alot of horsepower in this situation. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 7:40 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Agreed (I did mention that the advantage of electric accessories is the > ability to reduce or cut power to the motors as required). This would be a > good use of the excess computing power available in our Healeys ;) > > My main point is that it takes the (essentially) the same power to drive > the pump and/or fan, whether it comes from the engine directly or is > converted to electricity by the alternator, and that from a strictly > efficiency standpoint the conversion losses in the alternator and motors are > not inconsequential. > > Of course, due to the reverse Coriolis Effect down under the power flows > INTO the alternator from the motors, a HUGE advantage. > > > Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 09:00:27 2009 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 10:59:27 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Derusting engines insitu Rod, I have never used it myself, but I have a friend who does a lot of restoration work who swears by this molasses treatment. It is apparently very safe and gentle on the parts, as opposed to acids or blasting mediums. cheers, Mirek 60 BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rod Shepherd" To: Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 12:43 AM Subject: [Healeys] FW: Derusting engines insitu > _____ > > From: Rod Shepherd [mailto:rodshepherd@optusnet.com.au] > Sent: Sunday, 8 February 2009 3:17 PM > To: Healey List USA (healeys@aautox.team.net) > Subject: Derusting engines insitu > > > > Hello fellow listers > > A question without notice - has anyone ever used a mixture of 1part > molasses > to 10 parts water to derust an engine in situ. > > A mate and I believe it should work as we have used this to desrust nuts, > bolts and small components of our cars but, have never tried it in the way > we propose. > > Any ideas out there? > > Rod Shepherd (The Beast back on the road again) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as m.g.sharp@sympatico.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 09:09:03 2009 From: Reid Trummel To: Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:08:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Newspaper Covers Calendar Car Thought that some of you might be interested that Eric Mazarak's Sprite was featured in his local newspaper as a result of being featured in the 2009 Austin-Healey Club of America Calendar. Here's a link to the story: http://www.thedailystar.com/archivesearch/local_story_037073053.html I saw and photographed his Sprite at the Sprite Jubilee in Pennsylvania last May. It's always nice to see Healeys get some ink. RT Reid TrummelPortland, Oregon, USA _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 10:01:17 2009 From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Mirek Sharp" , Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 11:00:17 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Derusting engines insitu I have a friend who is using to derust some parts on a tricarb he is restoring--he showed me some of the parts, it works very well, but is a slow acting deal, like put it in the molasses mix on Sunday and take it out the next Saturday, if you were going to do a whole engine block you would need a way to dip it in a large container or some other way to keep the stuff on their for a few days. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 10:18:57 2009 From: Douglas W Flagg To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 12:17:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: You've received an answer to your question about item Received this in response to asking if it were the military version of the cap. eBay sent this message to Douglas Flagg (ah56bn2). Your registered name is included to show this message originated from eBay. Learn more. Seller has responded to your question about this item Do not respond to the sender if this message requests that you complete the transaction outside of eBay. This type of offer is against eBay policy, may be fraudulent, and is not covered by buyer protection programs. Learn More. Dear ah56bn2, Hi,look like a military version but is not.Military version is paint.Regards Geros. - geros1968Did this answer your question? If not, let the seller know. NOS AC COBRA Original ENOTS 3.5" ASTON FUEL FILLER CAP. Item Id:140285048230 End time:Feb-25-09 10:07:22 PST Seller: geros1968 (1827) 99.6% Positive Feedback Member since Mar-17-06 in Cyprus Listing Status:This message was sent while the listing was active. ____________________________________________________________ Discount Online Trading - Click Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw1gh4u2rqqaNaKM1K60l2tpcEBxnKaCFnc3xQxk1JSMTKeag/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of ebay_95x39.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of ltCurve.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of rtCurve.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of iconAlert_32x32.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of s.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of btnRespond.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 140285048230.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of iconRedStar_25x25.gif] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 10:47:52 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2009 18:47:02 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Josef, These are general remarks for all sorts of vehicles. The ones I did in the past were DAF, Renault, Landrover and Spitfire. If you can not take yours apart, bad luck, renew. However they were put together so they can also be taken apart. If you have several old ones break one to learn how it is build up. Kees Oudesluijs Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com schreef: > Hi Kees, > can I send you the starter solenoid to take apart and repair? I have two or > three of them and do not find the clue how to take them apart. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von Oudesluys > Gesendet: Samstag, 7. Februar 2009 19:49 > An: STOCKLAND@aol.com > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 > > Check, clean and refit the battery connections, use a bit of petroleum jelly > to avoid future corrosion. Also check the earthing strap and its connections, > again clean and apply petroleum jelly or just plain rust preventive wax. > Perhaps the starter solenoid contact points are burned. Take apart, inspect, > clean and if to far gone repair the contact points with silver solder and > file/sand until the complete surface of the points make contact when closed. > Did this many times as a student when the budget was very, very low. > Alternatively throw away and buy a new one. > > Kees Oudesluijs > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 11:03:37 2009 From: "Rich C" To: "Thomas-Michael Willig" , Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 13:02:41 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 bolts for clutch cover Thomas, Sorry to take so long answering, I had to do some digging and measuring. According to the Spare parts List, these bolts holding the clutch assembly to flywheel are Part number 2K 5881 with lockwashers 2K 5319. These are part numbers not numbered by the standard BMC fastener number coding system, therefore they are specific to this use. I measured some originals and they are 5/16" BSF thread shouldered black phosphate hex head capscrews by about 11/16" long (measurement taken from under the heads). A 5/16" BSF thread measures 5/16" diameter but has a thread pitch of 22 T.P.I. therefore cannot be substituted by SAE threaded fasteners. DON'T lose any more! Now speaking of "can't find", I don't seem to have any record of you or your car on the Hundred Registry. Would you please be so kind as to send me all your appropriate numbers and car information, etc. so we can add you and your BN2 to the Registry? Thanks Rich Chrysler AHCA Hundred Registrar ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas-Michael Willig" To: Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 9:18 AM Subject: [Healeys] 100 bolts for clutch cover > During the rebuild of my BN2 engine, I managed to lose the bolts which > attach the clutch cover to the flywheel. Anyone knows which size/thread > these bolts should have?? Somehow, none of the available bolts do fit. > > Thanks for any help here. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler@quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 11:45:22 2009 From: "Rich C" To: "Bob Spidell" , Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 13:44:11 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Mystery Hi Bob, If I understand your question correctly, you are wondering if there are any other sealing pieces used to seal the pedal holes in the driver's side toeboard panel? In addition to the pedals arcing approximately through the middle of the two holes, the rubber sealing pads are affixed to the little metal locator plates welded to the pedal stalks, and with both pedals under return spring pressure when at rest, these approx. 1/2" thick rubber pads do a reasonably effective job of sealing the holes. In addition, the under felts and carpets in the toeboard area are glued in place and have quite snug fitting clearance slots to the pedal stalks, just enough clearance so they don't drag when in motion. Finally, this location is actually quite protected from any splask or road grime, being well up behind the inner wheel arch. I've driven a lot of Hundreds, some appreciable distances, and leakage of air or moisture has not been an issue here. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 9:49 PM Subject: [Healeys] 100 Mystery > Listers, > > My dad and I are reassembling our 100M. We have a puzzle I'm hoping > someone might be able to help with: on our LHD car, there are 2 round > holes where the brake and clutch pedals go through. Where the holes are is > a raised part of the floorboard, and on the outside (engine bay side) are > a couple of thread insert-type nuts. On the passenger side, it's clear > these nuts are for a blanking panel with a felt seal, but it seems there > should be something on the driver's side but we can't find a part nor a > reference to it in the (Moss catalog). Does anyone know what, if anything, > goes around the clutch and brake holes? There are small plates on the > pedals on which rubber pads ('draft excluders') go, but these don't come > near to sealing the 2 round holes (they don't come all the way up to the > floorboard, either). It sure seems like there should be some sort of panel > to help seal up the area around the pedals--anyone know what goes there? > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler@quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of May06 pics 038.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of May06 pics 046.jpg] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 11:59:16 2009 From: "Michael Salter" To: Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 13:58:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland For those night owls in Eastern Canada you can catch AHX12 doing its thing in Targa Newfoundland on TSN in reruns at midnight Monday and 3:30 a.m. on Tuesday. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 12:14:39 2009 From: "J. Scott Morris" To: healeys@autox.team.net, Michael Salter Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 11:13:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland Don't have too Mike; I caught the show this morning. This TSN show was much better than the Speed TV version. You and Michael Oritt certainly did some nice driving with AHX12. --Scott Morris Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 MkI BN7 & '62 MkII BT7 J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Sun, 2/8/09, Michael Salter wrote: From: Michael Salter Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland To: healeys@autox.team.net Received: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 1:58 PM For those night owls in Eastern Canada you can catch AHX12 doing its thing in Targa Newfoundland on TSN in reruns at midnight Monday and 3:30 a.m. on Tuesday. Michael Salter 100 (1953) #174 AHX12 (1953) Bugeye (1961) http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432 __________________________________________________________________ Connect with friends from any web browser - no download required. Try the new Yahoo! Canada Messenger for the Web BETA at http://ca.messenger.yahoo.com/webmessengerpromo.php _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 12:53:45 2009 From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 14:52:52 EST Subject: [Healeys] BN7 for sale in Lexington Kentucky Jay Hoskins of Lexington Kentucky has a 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BN7 for sale. This car is totally disassembled and has been off the road and stored inside since 1975. I looked at it this morning and the chassis requires the normal sills, trunk floor and a bit of floor repair near the drivers pedals. Other than that it is a very straight and solid substucture. Owner reports all parts are included and I believe the engine has been rebuilt. Fenders appeared straight and needed usual doglegs and lower repair panels. I have no financial interest, just passing along the information. This car would make an excellent restoration candidate. Contact Jay at _handyman@2hoskins.com_ (mailto:handyman@2hoskins.com) . Jim Werner Louisville, KY **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1218550342x1201216770/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 14:17:49 2009 From: David Schweninger To: Healey Mail List Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 16:16:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] De rusting If you Google "rust removal by electrolysis" You'll find a fascinating list of sites on rust removal. The" old engines" guy even has a picture of a 1918 Chevrolet V8 Engine. I used Wash Soda and a battery charger to remove rust from a lot of healey parts, large- rear axels, and small- all those little bits that lay around rusting. It works great. Dave and Daisy _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 14:48:14 2009 From: "Ed's Shop" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 15:47:41 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] De rusting <> Article on my site re that, gents. I have a Spridgeteer buddy in Penn that did an ENTIRE Midget tub with the method!! Ed _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 14:49:20 2009 From: "Ed's Shop" To: Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 15:49:07 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Newspaper Covers Calendar Car <> How come you were NOT a Lake of the Ozarks, Reid?? Ed _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 16:05:17 2009 From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: "Mal Bruce" , Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 10:04:08 +1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil G'day Mal Yes any good quality mineral oil within that range will be okay, but best to look for a specific shock oil. I know it may be hard to find, but Penrite make a two types of shock absorber oil for lever stle shock absorbers. Have a look at http://www.penrite.com.au Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mal Bruce Sent: Saturday, 7 February 2009 8:36 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] shock oil Gents, My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be ok. Thanks Mal ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 18:28:29 2009 From: "Craig and Sue Rice" To: "Mal Bruce" Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 20:20:59 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil Mal & List, Several years ago I did a spectrographic analysis of Armstrong Shock Absorber Fluid and MIL-H-5606 (aircraft hydraulic fluid). They were an almost perfect match. The shock fluid is very pricey; maybe $25.00/quart. About two years ago I bought a gallon can of MIL-H-5606 for $22.50 from the FBO (fixed base operator) at a small local airport. The alternative to the fluid problem is to have your shocks rebuilt by Peter Caldwell, and never have to worry about adding fluid. Craig Rice BN1 & BN2 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mal Bruce" To: Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 3:35 PM Subject: [Healeys] shock oil > Gents, > My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is > fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be ok. > Thanks > > Mal > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as craigsuerice@iquest.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.18/1937 - Release Date: 2/6/09 11:31 AM _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 18:41:35 2009 From: tld6008@mchsi.com To: "Greg Lemon" , "Mirek Sharp" Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 01:40:47 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Derusting engines insitu Can't vouch for the molasses method but the washing soda and a DC welder at low amperage works great in very little time. I have only used this on cast iron parts and heavy gauge steel. -- Tim Davis BN7 -------------- Original message from "Greg Lemon" : -------------- > I have a friend who is using to derust some parts on a tricarb he is > restoring--he showed me some of the parts, it works very well, but is a slow > acting deal, like put it in the molasses mix on Sunday and take it out the > next Saturday, if you were going to do a whole engine block you would need a > way to dip it in a large container or some other way to keep the stuff on > their for a few days. > > Greg Lemon > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 18:58:58 2009 From: "Skip Saunders" To: Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 20:57:57 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Sometimes the brushes in the starter motor hang up just off of the armature.... If you rap on the outside case of the starter with a hammer, it can dislodge the brushes and you'll be able to start the motor.... however, if dust from the brushes is clogging the channel where the brushes ride it will happen again. The brushes are spring loaded to keep pressure on the armature...however, dust from worn brushes can fill up the channel and cause the symptoms you describe.... the fix is to remove the starter, open it, and clean out the area where the brushes are located... then reinstall the brushes and all should be well... -skip- -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of STOCKLAND@aol.com Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 1:32 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 Fellows, here is a real puzzle. Tried starting my BJ8 a couple of weeks ago and after cranking several times, the starter quit working. The solenoid would click but the starter would not turn over. Removed the starter and took it to a rebuilder and after inspection and cleaning was told the starter was OK. Reinstalled it and cranked it a few times when it happened again. Solenoid worked but the starter refused to turn. Thought maybe the solenoid was bad so I shorted between the outside solenoid poles and sparks flew. It is though the starter is shorted or something. Question is if the solenoid is bad, why would the reinstalled starter work for a while then stop? What would cause the starter to turn over for a while then refuse to turn and act as if there is a short? I am really frustrated and sure could use your advice. Thanks in advance. Jon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 19:07:37 2009 From: To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 21:07:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey ride Listers, Temp was 70 and sunny here in Tidewater VA today so took "Patches" the BN7 out for a 70 or so mile drive. Started out with a sticky RR brake but after 10 minutes of slow starts and stops it smoothed out. Boy! Was it great to hear the drone of that six again after 3-4 months! She ran beautifully and did not miss a lick. You know I haven't had a radio in this car since its resto in 01 and I do not miss one at all! Just love the exhaust sounds both accelerating and decelerating. Did I mention how I wound it up doing through the tunnels???? Come on spring Keith Pennell _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 19:41:46 2009 From: healeydoc@verizon.net To: Healey List List Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2009 18:40:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Siting on TV We just watched a movie that had lots of LBCs in it a RHD Black Bj8 played a starring role. The Wedding Date. One more Movie chalked up for the Healey marque. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialis.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 20:48:40 2009 From: "Ed's Shop" To: "'healeys'" Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 21:48:01 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 <> Gentlemen, have you ALL missed WHAT Jon Said (above)?!?!?!? I am with the ones that DID read that and think it is a ground strap or strap connection(s). Ed Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 8 21:01:01 2009 From: Jackson Krall To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 20:00:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Hardtop Available While some interest has been shown, no takers yet, so, I'd like to add that I would also be interested in trading for a BN7 soft top frame in allmost any condition. Thanks and Best JK > As long as we're on the subject, I have a Parish BN7 > hardtop I would like to trade for a Bugeye hardtop. I think > we can consider it "in need of restoration". > NYC/Hudson Valley location. > Best > JK > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as jackson_krall@yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 07:07:24 2009 From: "Taylor, Todd S" To: G Vernau Sr , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 09:06:11 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] remove trunnions- Todd Thanks , I was able to get the trunnion off but I can't get the fulcrum Bolt out now, I guess I'll have to cut that off.. got it soaking I PB blaster right now.. There's two trunnions on Ebay right now.. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G Vernau Sr Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 5:09 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] remove trunnions- Todd Todd, I had to use a high speed cut off wheel to cut off the top part (threaded part) of the kingpin, before the trunnion would come off. Be careful not to damage the trunnion, you can buy new kingpins several places (some of dubious quality) but I don't know where you'll find the trunnion. Good luck, George Vernau Sr Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as todd.s.taylor@lmco.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 07:14:01 2009 From: "Taylor, Todd S" To: John Soderling , gardner5@comcast.net, Peter Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 09:13:09 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil How about using power steering fluid that Audi uses, that's mineral based???? http://www.blauparts.com/audi/audi_fluid/audi_power_steering_fluid.shtml -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Soderling Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 8:24 PM To: gardner5@comcast.net; Peter Caldwell Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil I second this. They call it Fork Oil. Use their "heavy Duty" Fork Oil. Perfect for lever shocks. Vrooom vrooom, John ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Peter Caldwell" Cc: Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 1:52 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil > Try your local Harley Davidson shop. > > > > Joel > > BN2 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Caldwell" > To: "Mal Bruce" , healeys@autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, February 6, 2009 1:45:16 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil > > You're better off with a hydraulic oil as used for tractors and > hydrostatic machines and hydraulic rams. Grade AWE68 B (20W) It has > antifoaming agents, etc. B But engine oil will do in a pinch.... as > will jack oil. > > B B B B B Peter C > = > At 03:35 PM 2/6/2009, Mal Bruce wrote: >>Gents, >>My shop manual states that any good quality mineral oil in 20/20 weight is >>fine to use. Does this mean any engine oil including synthetic would be >>ok. >>Thanks >> >>Mal Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as todd.s.taylor@lmco.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 08:29:33 2009 From: "John Sims" To: "Healey List" Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 10:25:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Current Events Here's hoping that our friends from the land of OZ are OK and away from the fires. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 09:09:04 2009 From: David Nock To: Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 08:08:06 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another engine rebuild You can upgrade the cam, pistons, and lighten the flywheel and no one will ever know. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Feb 7, 2009, at 12:11 PM, wrote: > I am doing an engine rebuild on a 62 BT7 Tricarb engine. The car will > be restored to concours condition. So no visual modification should be > done at the engine; carbs, distributer to orig. spec. etc. To get max. > power/torque out of the engine, is it better to stay with the original > camshaft or to put in the BJ8 camshaft or other available. What is the > best to do? > Many thanks for all opinions. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > 54Bn1, 62BT7, 65Sprite > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healeydoc@sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 09:17:49 2009 From: "Skip Saunders" To: "'Ed's Shop'" Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 11:16:41 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 I've had "rebuilders" tell me my starter was ok.... and it "was almost ok"....but they missed the hanging brush issue. The brushes can fall down and make good connection in the tech shop (partially because the starter gets bumped around a bit when they are working on it and the brushes fall to where they are supposed to be.) However, when mounted on the car, the solid, stable (hard to keep tongue in cheek when saying "stable" about Healey's...but in this case it applies) non-moving car can allow the brushes to be hung up and to not fall to where they are supposed to be.... If all that happened was the tech guy at the starter checking place applied 12 volts, the thing would probably just sing away. But when re-installed it will exhibit the sporadic non-reliable behavior... (been there, seen that) The only way to be sure, is to check that the brush channel is very clean...slippery even..:-) ... (and the hold down springs are in good nick too, of course) Thanks -skip- PS....when the "obvious" problem areas aren't discovered to be the fix, sometimes the non-obvious solutions are worthwhile investigating. I would agree that one should think that after removal and checkout, the starter should be ok and one should be looking at ground straps or other similar causes....but premature elimination of a problem area has more than once caused very long diagnosis experiences...:-)...best to cover all bases (especially if they are easily covered...:-) ) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed's Shop Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 10:48 PM To: 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Problems BJ8 <> Gentlemen, have you ALL missed WHAT Jon Said (above)?!?!?!? I am with the ones that DID read that and think it is a ground strap or strap connection(s). Ed Please visit my site at: www.justbrits.com Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as tfsbj7@mindspring.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 09:27:07 2009 From: John Loftus To: Warthodson@aol.com Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 08:03:59 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper gear box Gary, The Gear is below the cable. Here's a few pictures to show the assembly .. http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper3.jpg http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper4.jpg http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper5.jpg Cheers, John ----------------- When correctly installed, is the gear (in the gear box) above or below the actuating cable (on a BJ7)? Gary _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 10:03:49 2009 From: "Don " To: Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 10:02:40 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Install fender vents Mitch, I would use steel on steel. Not sure what is meant by flange or no flange and it has been several years since mine were installed. The vents I used were very deep and I needed to cut them or the pedal boxes when the fender was fitted back to the car. The pedal boxes on both sides of my 57' interfered and I cut a couple of chunks out of vents to make the fenders fit after vent installation. They do help with the heat and my car is more of a rally replica of the period so I had no problem with cutting into the original metal. Don 57' BN4 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of caddi5@comcast.net Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 3:41 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Install fender vents Hello list, Has anyone installed front fender vents? I have steel fenders. They (vents) come in flanged or no flange,steel or alum. If anyone has performed this operation could you please walk me through it, which is the best flange type, any pics. would help big time as well......thanks a million!!! hopefully some day I can give someone some advice on Healeys.....heres a tibit I learned along the way, DON'T tell your wife how much you are spending on Healey parts (it is best to keep that to yourself) even if you do make some good buys.....lol Mitch 59 bn4 100/6 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 10:07:33 2009 From: John Loftus To: Weston Keyes Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 09:06:53 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fitting new grille to bonnet BJ8 Hi Wes, I had a lot of trouble reinstalling that grille on the inside (maybe the re-chrome was too heavy) but that is the way I have seen it on original unmolested cars. If you install it on the outside then the top piece w/studs might stick up too high leaving an unsightly gap and/or some of the grill will poke out from under the top piece. At least that is what mine looked like when I tried to fit the grille on the outside of the scoop. BTW, originally there were rectangular rubber packing pieces installed on the studs that help prevent dimples in the top piece when tightening the fastening nuts. Make sure you use some rubber washers between the top piece/paint, some medium locktight and only hand tighten the nuts. If you pull them too tight you can ruin the look of the top piece. Cheers, John _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 10:32:08 2009 From: To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 9:31:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Aussie Wildfires Hope all our friends down under are OK. I was just reading the news about the blazes. T _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 11:00:07 2009 From: "Freese, Ken" To: , Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 09:58:40 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aussie Wildfires This was posted on the nasty boys list. Ken Gidday, Have got some sad news, we have had some horrendous weather down here , two weeks of temp. ranging from 38 deg. cels. to yesterday, 46.5 (115degs Fahrenheit), bush fires all over Victoria , 85 dead already and they say toll to go higher. Over 700 houses destroyed.Owen Holmes, a Nasty Boy member, has had his property destroyed, He and his wife saved the house but everything else destroyed, his shed with his two Healeys is on the ground, His Concourse winning BN2 is just a melted pile of metal, his nasty boy is the same, car was finished except for the wiring and paint,all his machinery etc gone. They are still in the house, no water , power. The police have all the roads blocked so can't get in to help him.He very upset, his friends 1926 Chev, and my 1960 Austin Lancer, where both destroyed, it doesn't matter as long as they have survived .I will keep you informed ,every body in shock happened so quick, stay safe my friends , Lance _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 12:40:35 2009 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: "'Freese, Ken'" , Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 06:39:28 +1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aussie Wildfires G'day Yes Australia is a very sober place at the moment. The news this morning is that 166 are now confirmed dead, which is just mind shattering. Thanks for thinking of us. Best wishes Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Freese, Ken Sent: Tuesday, 10 February 2009 4:59 AM To: bighealey@charter.net; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aussie Wildfires This was posted on the nasty boys list. Ken Gidday, Have got some sad news, we have had some horrendous weather down here , two weeks of temp. ranging from 38 deg. cels. to yesterday, 46.5 (115degs Fahrenheit), bush fires all over Victoria , 85 dead already and they say toll to go higher. Over 700 houses destroyed.Owen Holmes, a Nasty Boy member, has had his property destroyed, He and his wife saved the house but everything else destroyed, his shed with his two Healeys is on the ground, His Concourse winning BN2 is just a melted pile of metal, his nasty boy is the same, car was finished except for the wiring and paint,all his machinery etc gone. They are still in the house, no water , power. The police have all the roads blocked so can't get in to help him.He very upset, his friends 1926 Chev, and my 1960 Austin Lancer, where both destroyed, it doesn't matter as long as they have survived .I will keep you informed ,every body in shock happened so quick, stay safe my friends , Lance Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as p_cquinn@tpg.com.au http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 14:43:44 2009 From: tld6008@mchsi.com To: healeys@autox.team.net (Healey list) Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 21:42:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 Exhaust clamps I'd like to know the size of the clamps for the front and rear of the muffler -- Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 18:39:52 2009 From: "rjhco" To: "'healeylist'" Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 19:38:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hardtop Headliner Material I have for sale a partial bolt of new, correct hardtop headliner material plus the foam padding that is used with the headliner. The piece of headliner material is approximately 87" x 55", enough for one complete hardtop finish out. I purchased the material and foam from the UK. The materials are extra to my BJ8 hardtop restoration. The color is off white/cream. The material is lightweight ribbed vinyl. I can ship the materials on a roll (probably expensive) or folded (less shipping cost). If interested, please contact me offline. Best regards, Jim Hockert Dallas, TX _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 21:02:08 2009 From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:01:02 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! G'day Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners who have fitted modern alternators to their cars. Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's just I don't like the look of them. I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even throw in the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless you tell the concours police how are they going to know? The website is www.caenterprises.com.au However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so new. I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas for every one sold - I wish! Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 21:33:04 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: "Quinn, Patrick" Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 12:31:54 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! Patrick - Holden sells these things, including the rewired regulator boxes for really super duper cheap already: http://www.holden.co.uk/displayProduct.asp?pCode=081.204 I have to check my pockets to see if I have the spare change.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 10, 2009 at 12:01 PM, Quinn, Patrick < Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au> wrote: > G'day > > Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners who > have fitted modern alternators to their cars. > > Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator > does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's just > I don't like the look of them. > > I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a > generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here > in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that > have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even throw in > the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. > > Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless > you tell the concours police how are they going to know? > > The website is www.caenterprises.com.au > > However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so new. > > I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas for > every one sold - I wish! > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 21:37:27 2009 From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: "Alan Seigrist" Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:36:53 +1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! Bloody Hell! And I thought the Au$900 being asked here was expensive. Thanks Alan! I learn something new every day. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ________________________________ From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, 10 February 2009 3:32 PM To: Quinn, Patrick Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! Patrick - Holden sells these things, including the rewired regulator boxes for really super duper cheap already: http://www.holden.co.uk/displayProduct.asp?pCode=081.204 I have to check my pockets to see if I have the spare change.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Tue, Feb 10, 2009 at 12:01 PM, Quinn, Patrick wrote: G'day Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners who have fitted modern alternators to their cars. Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's just I don't like the look of them. I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even throw in the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless you tell the concours police how are they going to know? The website is www.caenterprises.com.au However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so new. I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas for every one sold - I wish! Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 21:41:01 2009 From: Linwood H Rose To: "Quinn, Patrick" Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 23:40:19 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! Patrick, RaceMettle in the UK has been making them http://www.racemettleltd.co.uk but they are very expensive. Is the "Down Under" variant a little more reasonable? Lin 1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" 1959 AN5 Bugeye On Feb 9, 2009, at 11:01 PM, Quinn, Patrick wrote: > G'day > > Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners > who > have fitted modern alternators to their cars. > > Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator > does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's > just > I don't like the look of them. > > I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a > generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here > in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that > have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even > throw in > the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. > > Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless > you tell the concours police how are they going to know? > > The website is www.caenterprises.com.au > > However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so > new. > > I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas > for > every one sold - I wish! > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as linwoodrose@mac.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 9 23:25:20 2009 From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 22:24:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: alternator conversion Patrick, et al: Following was sent to The List on November 13, last year: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)" To: "'David Nock'" Cc: "'HEALEY LIST'" Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 11:07 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] alternator conversion > Not necessarily, David. We have an alternator for positive earth cars in > stock which looks exactly like a Lucas C45 generator. > > Eric Frenken > Brits'n'Pieces > http://brits-n-pieces.com > > > > > ... As for polarity if you install a alternator you will need to convert > to > neg ground... _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 10 08:25:49 2009 From: Warthodson@aol.com To: loftusdesign@cox.net, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 10:24:30 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper gear box John, et all, I am referring to the two gear boxes that pass thru the shroud and the wiper arms atttach to them, not the gear in the motor assembly. The parts book indicates that the cable is above the gear, but I would like to verify this because I am helping a friend re-assemble a BJ7 & his is a very tight fit when oriented this way, perhaps because the tubing around the cable was badly bent. It seems to fit slightly better with the cable below the gear. Thanks, Gary In a message dated 2/9/2009 10:04:14 A.M. Central Standard Time, loftusdesign@cox.net writes: Gary, The Gear is below the cable. Here's a few pictures to show the assembly .. http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper3.jpg http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper4.jpg http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper5.jpg Cheers, John ----------------- When correctly installed, is the gear (in the gear box) above or below the actuating cable (on a BJ7)? Gary **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1218550342x1201216770/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 10 09:26:55 2009 From: John Loftus To: Warthodson@aol.com Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 07:58:31 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper gear box Gary, I ran into the same problem when reinstalling mine. I found they fit much better with the cable below the gear box. Cheers, John BJ7 Warthodson@aol.com wrote: > John, et all, > I am referring to the two gear boxes that pass thru the shroud and the > wiper arms atttach to them, not the gear in the motor assembly. The > parts book indicates that the cable is above the gear, but I would > like to verify this because I am helping a friend re-assemble a BJ7 & > his is a very tight fit when oriented this way, perhaps because the > tubing around the cable was badly bent. It seems to fit slightly > better with the cable below the gear. > Thanks, > Gary _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 10 10:18:56 2009 From: john close To: Healeys Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 09:18:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Window Boo-Boo Hi Listers - Splattered a little black enamel on back window. Smooth, huh? Any tips on how to remove it? Without damage, of course. Thanks - JRC _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 10 11:12:27 2009 From: "Peter Ryner" To: , "Healeys" Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 12:55:46 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hardtop Window Boo-Boo Try some goof off. Worked on a lot of paints for me on several surfaces. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "john close" To: "Healeys" Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 12:18 PM Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Window Boo-Boo > Hi Listers - Splattered a little black enamel on back window. Smooth, huh? > Any tips on how to remove it? Without damage, of course. Thanks - JRC > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as pryner@verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 10 11:39:33 2009 From: "J. Scott Morris" To: Austin Healey Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 10:38:45 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Magazine Collection Hello All -- Austin Healey Club USA [Pacific Centre] newsletter/magazine began in February 1970. By the end of 2008, 408 issues were printed [includes some dual-month issues]. In my collection, I now have 387 issues and 140 duplicates. Ed Driver, the AHCUSA Historian, has provided some missing issues but my collection is still short the 25 issues listed below. 1 - 1973 November 1 - 1975 March 1 - 1976 April-May 1 - 1983 May 4 - 1984 May, June, November, December 4 - 1985 January, August, September, November 8 - 1986 January, February, April, June, July, August, September, October 1 - 1990 March-April 2 - 1994 February, April-May 1 - 1996 August 1 - 2008 January I would like to get originals or a high resolution jpeg scan of each issue. If you have any of these issues and are prepared to sell, trade, scan, whatever, then do contact me off-list. An Excel inventory of the 140 duplicates is available. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 10 17:01:46 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Warthodson@aol.com Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 01:00:36 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] wiper gear box What ever way you fit the boxes do not forget to turn the cam wheels 180: so that you can use the unworn part of the cam wheels. Lubricate with grafite grease or MoS2 grease. Kees Oudesluijs Warthodson@aol.com schreef: > John, et all, > I am referring to the two gear boxes that pass thru the shroud and the wiper > arms atttach to them, not the gear in the motor assembly. The parts book > indicates that the cable is above the gear, but I would like to verify this > because I am helping a friend re-assemble a BJ7 & his is a very tight fit when > oriented this way, perhaps because the tubing around the cable was badly bent. > It seems to fit slightly better with the cable below the gear. > Thanks, > Gary > > > > In a message dated 2/9/2009 10:04:14 A.M. Central Standard Time, > loftusdesign@cox.net writes: > > Gary, > > The Gear is below the cable. Here's a few pictures to show the assembly .. > > http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper3.jpg > http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper4.jpg > http://www.loftusdesign.net/wiper5.jpg > > Cheers, > John > > ----------------- > > When correctly installed, is the gear (in the gear box) above or below the > actuating cable (on a BJ7)? > > Gary > > > > **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy > steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1218550342x1201216770/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe > bemailfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 10 18:46:45 2009 From: Jorge Garcia To: Austin Healey Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 17:45:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Healeys] Starter solenoid question I replaced the starter on my 65 BJ8 with a gear reduction unit from British Starters last week and now I am looking at replacing the solenoid and the cable from the solenoid to the starter. Are there any solenoid dos or don'ts that I should know about? I am concerned that there may be quality issues with solenoids like we do with distributor rotors. Is the cable from the solenoid to the starter reproduced with the correct hardware and plastic bits or should I just make my own? Thanks Jorge Garcia _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 10 19:37:36 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: fortee9er@yahoo.com Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 10:36:48 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter solenoid question Jorge - You don't need the solenoid at all, the gear reduction starter has its own solenoid. Just put the hot leads together on one terminal on the solenoid (or bypass it all together and remove the solenoid) and run the ignition wire straight to the solenoid on the gear reduction starter. Another option is to use the push button solenoid as a "relay" to put power to the solenoid trigger on the gear reduction starter, as sometimes the draw on this line is much bigger than what the original switch wire from the ignition switch can handle. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 On Wed, Feb 11, 2009 at 9:45 AM, Jorge Garcia wrote: > I replaced the starter on my 65 BJ8 with a gear reduction unit from British > Starters last week and now I am looking at replacing the solenoid and the > cable from the solenoid to the starter. > Are there any solenoid dos or don'ts that I should know about? I am > concerned that there may be quality issues with solenoids like we do with > distributor rotors. > Is the cable from the solenoid to the starter reproduced with the correct > hardware and plastic bits or should I just make my own? > Thanks > Jorge Garcia _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 10 19:57:35 2009 From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 13:56:31 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Digital Photo of Austin-Healey Wings G'day For one of my projects I am looking for a digital photo of the front of an Austin-Healey showing the wings and looking backwards towards the screen. I don't mind if it's a 100, 100/6 or 3000 but I do not want a photo of the front badge that shows the model ie the Mk2. I want just the generic wings with the Austin-Healey script and the front section of the car. I don't mind what colour, but would prefer to not see the steering wheel as it would be a giveaway that it's a right or left hand drive car. If you have one can you please send me a high resolution copy? Either to this address or to p_cquinn@tpg.com.au No there is zilch $$$ involved, just warm feelings. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 10 20:29:36 2009 From: Awgertoo@aol.com To: healey.nut@gmail.com, fortee9er@yahoo.com Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 22:27:58 EST Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter solenoid question This nevertheless requires both solenoids to be operational in order for the reduction starter to work, doubling your chances of failure. Take Alan's first recommendation and do away with the original solenoid entirely or if you want to keep it for appearances' sake then pull all wires to one post. Best--Michael Oritt ==================== In a message dated 2/10/2009 9:37:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, healey.nut@gmail.com writes: Another option is to use the push button solenoid as a "relay" to put power to the solenoid trigger on the gear reduction starter, as sometimes the draw on this line is much bigger than what the original switch wire from the ignition switch can handle **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1218550342x1201216770/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 10 21:17:58 2009 From: Ray Juncal To: f9cougar@yahoo.com Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 20:15:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hardtop Window Boo-Boo John If it was regular enamel you are in luck. Paint thinner ( mineral spirits ) or turpentine will not react with the acrylic plastic window. (stronger solvents will attack the plastic) So gentile rubbing with a very soft clean cloth soaked in paint thinner will do the trick. It may take a while so be patient. Clean up with plastic polish then plastic cleaner. If it was catalyzed enamel, solvent won't touch it. You may be able to polish it off using a three step plastic polish system. there will be three grades of polish sort of coarse, medium, and fine. Try to rub only on the paint as much as possible. Especially with the "coarse" polish. Take your time and you should be able to wear away the paint without distorting the plastic.If you have more questions contact me and I'll give you my phone number. I do this kind of thing for a living. Good luck Ray Juncal --- On Tue, 2/10/09, john close wrote: From: john close Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop Window Boo-Boo To: "Healeys" Date: Tuesday, February 10, 2009, 9:18 AM Hi Listers - Splattered a little black enamel on back window. Smooth, huh? Any tips on how to remove it? Without damage, of course. Thanks - JRC Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as healeyray@yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 00:19:50 2009 From: "Brits'n'Pieces \(Eric Frenken\)" To: , "'Austin Healey'" Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 08:18:34 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] positive ground alternator Jorge, we have the alternator for positive ground available. As I see from your signature you have a BJ8, which used to have a Lucas C42. All previous models of the Big Healey had a Lucas C45, which we do offer as an alternator in the original generator housing with about 40-45 amps, also for positive earth. For details see http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p7701 The same is available as C42, but unfortunately not for positive earth. Probably we could make one, but this would take some days/weeks. http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p7699 Best regards Eric -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jorge Garcia Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 5:39 PM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] positive ground alternator Recent posts on installing an alternator caught my eye but I am interested in a 12v positive ground alternator. Does such a thing exists and where can I get one or where can I get the instructions to convert a negative ground alternator to positive ground? Thanks Jorge Garcia 1965 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 08:06:46 2009 From: Steve Thomton To: "Quinn, Patrick" Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 07:05:47 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! Patrick et al, for you guys here in the colonies there is a U.S. manufacture of alternators that look like generators http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/powergen.html These claim to put out more amps than the others listed....saying 60 amps at idle. These are designed to simulate the old U.S. cars generators. I've never done the due diligence to see if the size is a match for my Healey but if you were in the market it would be worth the effort as I believe these go for around $350ish which seems to be less than the others. Steve Thomton 1963 BJ7 Works Rally replica in progress --- On Mon, 2/9/09, Quinn, Patrick wrote: From: Quinn, Patrick Subject: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Monday, February 9, 2009, 9:01 PM G'day Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners who have fitted modern alternators to their cars. Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's just I don't like the look of them. I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even throw in the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless you tell the concours police how are they going to know? The website is www.caenterprises.com.au However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so new. I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas for every one sold - I wish! Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as scthomton@yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 10:19:17 2009 From: Weston Keyes To: Ahealey Ahealey Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 12:17:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Heater control spacers BJ8 Hello Folks, I am assembling the heater control on a BJ8. The previous restorer lost amongst other things the spacers that locate the cable mechanism in between the flanges of the plastic faceplate. It looks like from the parts manual that they are straight forward tube like spacers. Could someone give me the two lengths and the OD? Many Thanks The are part numbers are: 24 B 632 Spacer-Long 24 B 633 Spacer-Short On page BP 2 of the Parts manual Wes Keyes York, maine _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 10:41:19 2009 From: Weston Keyes To: Ahealey Ahealey Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 12:40:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Routing of Speed cable BJ8 Right hand drive Hello Folks, Does the cable for speedo come into the engine bay from the right angle drive and then through the bulkhead? If so which hole does it go through? This is a right hand drive car. Many thanks Wes Keyes York, Maine _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 12:16:08 2009 From: tld6008@mchsi.com To: healeys@autox.team.net (Healey list) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:15:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car had spiral flex tubing between header pipe and front of muffler which was rock hard when I removed it. Is this same material being supplied on replacement parts or are they using the newer mesh covered flex hoses that stay flexible forever? Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 12:22:13 2009 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: "THEO SMIT" , "Tony McNulty" Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 11:21:22 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust The same material is being used. Seems a bit more flimsy and prone to leaks, though. Wilko On Feb 11, 2009, at 11:15 AM, tld6008@mchsi.com wrote: > I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car > had spiral flex tubing between header pipe and front of muffler > which was rock hard when I removed it. Is this same material > being supplied on replacement parts or are they using the newer > mesh covered flex hoses that stay flexible forever? > > Tim Davis BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as e-wilkins@cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 12:43:07 2009 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 20:42:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? Hello, I am beginning to look for cam, crankshaft & rod bearings for my 100 engine rebuild. I am wondering what brand to look for, what is the best. All advice is appreciated... Also, I am wondering is everybody is selling the same gasket kits for the engine or there are also different makes and some are a better choice?.. Thanks, Tadek _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 13:10:58 2009 From: "Rich C" To: , "Healey list" Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:10:01 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust Go with Stainless of the original spiral flex construction. It looks right, and takes hi temp. paint no problem. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Healey list" Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 2:15 PM Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust >I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car had spiral >flex tubing between header pipe and front of muffler which was rock hard >when I removed it. Is this same material being supplied on replacement >parts or are they using the newer mesh covered flex hoses that stay >flexible forever? > > Tim Davis BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler@quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 13:14:27 2009 From: Weston Keyes To: Ahealey Ahealey Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:13:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Correct wire hose clamps? Hello Folks, Thanks for putting up with all my questions. I'm getting down to the nitty gritty. I have obtained two types of hose clamps from two different vendors. One has a round head slotted screw and the other a slotted hex head. Are either of them like the original? I realize both are probably repros. Thanks Wes Keyes York, Maine _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 13:16:26 2009 From: "Rich C" To: "Weston Keyes" , "Ahealey Ahealey" Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:15:38 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Correct wire hose clamps? Round head slotted is correct. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Weston Keyes" To: "Ahealey Ahealey" Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 3:13 PM Subject: [Healeys] Correct wire hose clamps? > Hello Folks, > > Thanks for putting up with all my questions. I'm getting down to the > nitty > gritty. > > I have obtained two types of hose clamps from two different vendors. One > has a > round head slotted screw and the other a slotted hex head. Are either of > them > like the original? I realize both are probably repros. > > Thanks > > Wes Keyes > York, Maine > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler@quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 13:33:45 2009 From: healeyguy@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:32:41 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust I have contemplated the (original style) flex pipe issue for a number of years, watched the pipe(s) move during engine loading, etc. I'm still of the opinion that the only reason that the flex pipe was included on the original cars was to facilitate getting the down (header) pipes to mate with the fixed muffler(silencer) location. I do do not think that the flex section provides any added flexibility in the down pipe thereby (theoretically) reducing wear and tear on the rest of the exhaust system mounts. Aloha Perry tld6008@mchsi.com wrote: I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car had spiral flex tubing between header pipe and front of muffler which was rock hard when I removed it. Is this same material being supplied on replacement parts or are they using the newer mesh covered flex hoses that stay flexible forever? Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 14:02:29 2009 From: John McElrath To: healeyguy@aol.com Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 16:01:36 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust I drove a Healey off the ferry in Nova Scotia once and managed to break the flex tubing and a few other things. I found a lock muffler shop who removed the flex tubing, weld in standard exhaust pipe with no flex and fixed the other items. I drove the car for about 10,000 miles before I decided to put on a stainless steel exhaust. I had no problems without the flex pipe - never really know it wasn't there. Maybe their is some technical reason it is on the car, but other than lining things up, I am not sure what. John On Wed, Feb 11, 2009 at 3:32 PM, wrote: > I have contemplated the (original style) flex pipe issue for a number of > years, watched the pipe(s) move during engine loading, etc. I'm still of the > opinion that the only reason that the flex pipe was included on the original > cars was to facilitate getting the down (header) pipes to mate with the > fixed muffler(silencer) location. I do do not think that the flex section > provides any added flexibility in the down pipe thereby (theoretically) > reducing wear and tear on the rest of the exhaust system mounts. > Aloha > Perry > > > > tld6008@mchsi.com wrote: > I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car had spiral > flex > tubing between header pipe and front of muffler which was rock hard when I > removed it. Is this same material being supplied on replacement parts or > are > they using the newer mesh covered flex hoses that stay flexible forever? > > Tim Davis BN7 > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as linsley46@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 14:02:54 2009 From: Oudesluys To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 22:01:52 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? I am not so sure if there are great differences in quality between the bigger brands, but Vandervell is regarded as one of the best for British cars. However the main thing is that you choose the tolerances and surface finish of the crankshaft properly and measure the play of each journal with plastigauge. Go near the tight end of the tolerances given. You may have to swap shells to get all tolerances as equal as possible. Same with camshaft, but not so critical. Kees Oudesluijs Tadeusz Malkiewicz schreef: > Hello, > > I am beginning to look for cam, crankshaft & rod bearings for my 100 engine > rebuild. I am wondering what brand to look for, what is the best. > > All advice is appreciated... > > Also, I am wondering is everybody is selling the same gasket kits for the > engine or there are also different makes and some are a better choice?.. > > Thanks, > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 14:16:09 2009 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Oudesluys' Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 22:13:41 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? Kees, The way I did it before with other engines was simply to buy next oversize bearings and have my shop do the crankshaft for this set of bearings - what do you mean by swapping shells to get the best tolerances???.. Are the bearings sold not equal?? Best, Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl] Sent: 11 lutego 2009 22:02 To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] crankshaft bearings - what make to look for? I am not so sure if there are great differences in quality between the bigger brands, but Vandervell is regarded as one of the best for British cars. However the main thing is that you choose the tolerances and surface finish of the crankshaft properly and measure the play of each journal with plastigauge. Go near the tight end of the tolerances given. You may have to swap shells to get all tolerances as equal as possible. Same with camshaft, but not so critical. Kees Oudesluijs Tadeusz Malkiewicz schreef: > Hello, > > I am beginning to look for cam, crankshaft & rod bearings for my 100 engine > rebuild. I am wondering what brand to look for, what is the best. > > All advice is appreciated... > > Also, I am wondering is everybody is selling the same gasket kits for the > engine or there are also different makes and some are a better choice?.. > > Thanks, > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as coudesluijs@chello.nl > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 15:24:53 2009 From: "Rich C" To: , Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 17:23:49 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust I believe that because of the low ground clearance, when the muffler grounds out, the flex will take the shock instead of it being telegraphed back up to the next weakest link, the cast iron manifolds. I'd sooner replace a flex section than try to repair or replace an exhaust manifold flange. Of course the flex certainly aids in the fitting up of the system onto the flange studs and muffler mounts. The manufacturers certainly didn't do the flex section to save money. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 3:32 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust >I have contemplated the (original style) flex pipe issue for a number of >years, watched the pipe(s) move during engine loading, etc. I'm still of >the opinion that the only reason that the flex pipe was included on the >original cars was to facilitate getting the down (header) pipes to mate >with the fixed muffler(silencer) location. I do do not think that the flex >section provides any added flexibility in the down pipe thereby >(theoretically) reducing wear and tear on the rest of the exhaust system >mounts. > Aloha > Perry > > > > tld6008@mchsi.com wrote: > I am requesting info regarding rebuilding exhaust system. My car had > spiral flex > tubing between header pipe and front of muffler which was rock hard when I > removed it. Is this same material being supplied on replacement parts or > are > they using the newer mesh covered flex hoses that stay flexible forever? > > Tim Davis BN7 > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as richchrysler@quickclic.net > > http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 16:00:19 2009 From: "John Sims" To: "'Rich C'" , , Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 17:59:52 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust Also, since it is a flex, it makes for easier fitting considering that these cars were "cobbled together" at the factory and who knows on the various restorations over the years. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 5:24 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net; healeyguy@aol.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust I believe that because of the low ground clearance, when the muffler grounds out, the flex will take the shock instead of it being telegraphed back up to the next weakest link, the cast iron manifolds. I'd sooner replace a flex section than try to repair or replace an exhaust manifold flange. Of course the flex certainly aids in the fitting up of the system onto the flange studs and muffler mounts. The manufacturers certainly didn't do the flex section to save money. Rich Chrysler ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 3:32 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 exhaust >I _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 16:08:46 2009 From: Alan Seigrist To: Weston Keyes , Ahealey Ahealey Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 07:08:05 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Routing of Speed cable BJ8 Right hand drive Wes - The routing is the same whether LHD or RHD. It goes through the hole in the center top front of the fibreglass gearbox tunnel. There is a special grommet there to keep hot drafts out of the cockpit. Cheers, Alan On 2/12/09, Weston Keyes wrote: > Hello Folks, > > Does the cable for speedo come into the engine bay from the right angle > drive and then through the bulkhead? If so which hole does it go through? > This > is a right hand drive car. > > Many thanks > > Wes Keyes > York, Maine > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Healeys@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > You are subscribed as healey.nut@gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 16:24:20 2009 From: richard mayor To: healeys Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 23:23:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] rear disc brake conversion I have the DW rear disc brake conversion and need some new rotors. Has anyone found a less expensive source for new rotors?. With current exchange rate one rotor from DW is about $207 plus shipping from England. Alternatively, does anyone know of a dimensionally close rotor that can be machined to work? Richard _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_02200 9 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 16:26:13 2009 From: "Mr. Bill" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:25:31 -0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Is it a generator? No! Hi Patrick and Listers, I've been running one from a UK vendor (of course I bought when the # was still high) for several months now and am sold on them. Like you, I just couldn't stand seeing a big ol' GM one sitting right up on top in front of God and everybody. I like to keep at least a reasonably original look. I modified the regulator to look stock while the inside was just a junction block. I used the stock, painted cooling fan and painted the casing engine color but left the cast end plates bare. Even though they show Lucas, they are not correct. But when someone notices, I simply say the ear broke off the rear one and I couldn't find another early plate with the brass oiler. "Oh, I knew something was wrong." Boy old eagle eyes, you should be a concours judge! LOL (Oops, I let the cat out of the bag!) A word of caution: Be absolutely sure the main battery switch is turned off while when making the change. One big "Zap!" from the otherwise always hot wire will cause a very costly mistake. DAMHIK I'm also changing to all LED's including the instrument panel, but that's a story for another day. Bill Barnett '53 BN1 (with even fewer original parts) >> G'day >> >> Over the years I have seen with interest those Austin-Healey owners who >> have fitted modern alternators to their cars. >> >> Honestly I have thought about it but the idea of a modern alternator >> does not appeal. Not that I am really into concours any more. It's just >> I don't like the look of them. >> >> I have often thought that why an alternator couldn't look like a >> generator. Well I have just been sent some photos from a business here >> in Australia that is offering on an exchange basis, alternators that >> have been built inside the casing of a generator. Yes they even throw in >> the plans to make your existing regulator into a non-working dummy. >> >> Yes the polarity still has to be changed to negative earth, but unless >> you tell the concours police how are they going to know? >> >> The website is www.caenterprises.com.au >> >> However I don't think it yet rates a mention on the site, being so new. >> >> I have some pics if you want any. Of course I get a zillion drachmas for >> every one sold - I wish! >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 17:06:46 2009 From: Michael Gladwin To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:05:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb foul Calling the Tricarb genius bar. I have just rebuilt my carbs and am having trouble setting the chokes. The rear jet-head (black plastic cap) is fouling the steering column when the choke is out, in fact it restricts choke movement. There is about .040 inch clearance with choke in on a cold engine. The jets are new and correctly fitted. (I thought about cutting one inch out of the middle of the steering column but decided that not having a choke and therefore not being able to start the car was probably the safer option). All I can think of is worn engine mounts but they look good, or is there a cranked jet for the rear that did not come with the kit - nothing in the parts list. Please advise, the weather is good here and I need a fix. Mike Gladwin BT7 II _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://www.team.net/archive From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Feb 11 17:08:33 2009 From: David Schweninger To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net, Healey Mail List Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:07:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: To: The World as Defined by healeymanjim Begin forwarded message: From: David Schweninger Date: February 11, 2009 7:03:47 PM EST To: Subject: To: The World as Defined by healeymanjim Ok Jim. The first thing to do is figure out what is the biggest part you want to remove the rust from. Keep in mind long pieces can be done one half at a time. I used a plastic kitty litter bucket. (not the one used by the cats, the one used by the market). you then place pieces of iron (steel) around the sides of the bucket. I used 16GA. cold rolled sheet. You can use anything that contains Iron. I used the sheet because I could drill holes in the upper corners and hook them all together with 12Ga. solid copper wire (stripped). In order to hang parts in the tub I bent a piece of heavy copper wire so it would lay across top of the tub without touching the steel plates. I notched the rim of the bucket. This is about a 5 gallon bucket so I put in about 3 cups of Washing Soda. Fill the tub with water as required and your ready to go. Pick a part and hang it on the cross bar. Hook the minus clip of battery charger to your part and the plus clip to the steel plates. Keep in mind this process splits the water back into hydrogen and oxygen