From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 01:52:33 2010 From: Mark J Bradakis To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 01:11:28 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fools and Funding No, this is not a political rant about the scoundrels on Capitol Hill. I'll rant about that elsewhere, probably the prattle forum on the Team.Net forums. For the moment, though, consider this my annual State of Team.Net speech. It is getting sent out on All Fool's Day. More on that in a bit. Back in April of 1991 the domain team.net was registered. We are 19 years old this month. Of course there were a few years before then that email was just sent to various places as the lists were in their infancy. The patriarch of the family was SOL, the Scions of Lucas, thanks to Dale Cook and Jim Muller. Now there are over 60 Team.Net email lists, and about 14,000 subscribers scattered about the planet. And 19 years old describes my age when I moved to Salt Lake City, a young lad looking for adventure in the mountains through climbing and skiing. And many an adventure was to be had. The biggest was no doubt the Weird Winter Wall trip of 1977. I really need to write that up, get a bunch of the slides digitized to share with others. The short version is that I am amazingly lucky to still be alive. It was April 1st, 1977 when the four of us, hungry and exhausted, demoralized and chilled to the bone sat on a mountainside in the Wind Rivers and watched the sun come up. Sunrises are always beautiful, but to this day those firstly faint glowing streaks of red, orange and gold have never looked so welcome as on that morning. We knew we'd make it, we'd see more sunrises. It seems appropriate that we returned to civilization on April Fool's day. A winter ascent of the North Face of Mt. Hooker seems a fool's errand in hindsight. But I survived. And Team.Net has survived. There have certainly been many times over the years when I've felt the fool for putting in the effort to keep it going. Just hitting the off switch and walking away would have been so easy. But far more prominent are the occasions where a well crafted message, an unsolicited thank you or donation, a T shirt or some trinket unexpectedly showing up at my doorstep makes me realize what a treasure Team.Net has been over the years. There are untold old classics out there still on the road, thanks to you folks. Sure, you may have never turned a wrench on them, or pushed them in or out of the garage, but the technical support provided, along with the email equivalent of a friendly smile and a heartfelt pat on the back has kept folks going. They've taken that fool's errand of a hopeless restoration and brought it back from near death to see another sunrise. If you see fit, please make use of the information provided at http://www.team.net/donate.html mjb. "But look, the morn in russet mantle clad walks o'er the dew of yon high eastward hill" Hamlet, Wm. Shakespeare _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 02:40:03 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Alan Seigrist Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 09:44:30 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Well Vents Why bother, just fit an electric fan to the radiator, thermostaticly controlled with a manual override switch. This will solve the overheating problems in dense traffic. Kees Oudesluijs NL Alan Seigrist schreef: > Seems to me you could put some computer 12 volt ventilation fans near > the top of the wheel well and that could do a lot to remove hot air as > it rises under the bonnet. > > Ray Carbone wrote: > >> Hi Perry, >> Although I do like the look of the fender vents, the idea of implementing a >> few out and downward facing louvers on the top of the wheel well to improve >> air flow and reduce high pressure within the engine compartment would be an >> effort I can handle. The thought is that this modification would capitalize >> on the low pressure created within the well to extract heat while reducing >> engine compartment pressure and, therefore, will improve air flow and >> cooling >> system efficiency. This alteration is relatively inconspicuous and easily >> reversible (with a panel) making the effort and cost of this project >> substantially lower than implementing fender vents. The concept seems well >> proven with many vintage racing examples, however, I am a little concerned >> that none were Healeys and was hopping that the list could provide some >> experiences. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 02:40:26 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Alan Seigrist Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 09:50:58 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thumbscrew threads If it were that simple. SMITHS used at least three or four different thread sizes on their gauges. I have no idea what, exept they also used one, wait for it, metric one. I have many spare nuts, but I always have to try a few to find a fitting one. Kees Oudesluijs NL Alan Seigrist schreef: > Bob - > > All that stuff on smith's guages is BA threading. Thinking about the studs > on the back of the gauges, my guess is the thumbscrews are probably 3 or 4 > BA size. the thumbscrews can be bought from a multitude of suppliers for > small money: > > http://www.sussexclassiccar.co.uk/shop_factory_hazel/index1.html > > Bob Spidell wrote: > > >> Anyone know the size and thread of the studs on the back of Smiths speedos, >> tachs, etc. (the ones that hold the clamps to the backside of the panel)? >> We have--ahem--'aftermarket' screws intalled by a PO on our BN2's speedo, >> and I'd like to get back closer to original; I have new thumbscrews but they >> don't fit any screws in my inventory (looks like size 8 but the thread is >> not 32tpi--24tpi maybe?). >> >> TIA, _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 06:32:09 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: ahbn6@verizon.net, healeys@autox.team.net, 'Curt/Nancy Arndt' Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 13:45:37 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Well, that was me - here it goes, attached. John, please update it on the website. Selfishly, I did it only for the late BN2, but a lot is there, and there - I presume another 30% needs to be added to complement it to full 100 nut & bolt catalog. I copied the information from the Part's catalog which I scanned and OCR'ed. I believe it was the AKD870 edition. The lines in gray are showing PN's not identified. Best, Tadek [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/vnd] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 07:03:19 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'" , Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 08:08:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Site updated. Thanks, Tadek! John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz@plusnet.pl] Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 7:46 AM To: ahbn6@verizon.net; healeys@autox.team.net; 'Curt/Nancy Arndt'; 'John Harper'; 'Alan Seigrist' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Well, that was me - here it goes, attached. John, please update it on the website. Selfishly, I did it only for the late BN2, but a lot is there, and there - I presume another 30% needs to be added to complement it to full 100 nut & bolt catalog. I copied the information from the Part's catalog which I scanned and OCR'ed. I believe it was the AKD870 edition. The lines in gray are showing PN's not identified. Best, Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 10:18:29 2010 From: I Erbs To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 08:16:04 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... The muffler shop welded my flex sections to the muffler. Maybe your motor mounts are old and causing extra engine flex and movement that is is being transferred to the pipes.... On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 8:33 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > I wonder if the flex sections of the down pipes could be too stiff, maybe > rusted tight. That might cause relative motion between the flanges. > Bill Lawrence > > > Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 22:14:13 -0700 > > From: bspidell@comcast.net > > To: healey.nut@gmail.com > > CC: healeys@autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... > > > > Good thought, Alan. I haven't torqued them too hard--afraid of > > stripping the studs. Good idea to use a torque wrench--hadn't thought > > of that. > > > > bs > > > > > > Alan Seigrist wrote: > > > Bob - > > > > > > I don't think the nuts are supposed to be torqued all that tight, no > > > more than 30 ft-lbs. Really just enough to compress lightly and get a > > > good seal. Could this be your problem? > > > > > > Alan > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > ******************************************************************* > > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net > > > > ******************************************************************* > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 10:19:25 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: I Erbs Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 15:34:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Arghhhhh ... Another good data point. A Lister--who replied to me privately--informed me that the original BN1 downpipes had a 1/4" extension into the manifold, presumably to keep the gaskets from taking the brunt of the hot exhaust gases. I think the best solution is to weld a collar into the downpipe flanges to keep exhaust gas from burning through the inside edge of the gasket. I'll use sealant and make sure the flex joints are flexing as well. Lots of good info from the List. I think the downpipe collar/extension is the most liable to give a lasting solution, but I'll be checking flanges, flex unions, motor mounts, and all the other suggestions. Thanks to all who replied, Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA . The muffler shop welded my flex sections to the muffler. Maybe your motor mounts are old and causing extra engine flex and movement that is is being transferred to the pipes.... On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 8:33 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE < ynotink@msn.com > wrote: I wonder if the flex sections of the down pipes could be too stiff, maybe rusted tight. That might cause relative motion between the flanges. Bill Lawrence _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 10:57:36 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 12:19:38 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? Just got this e-mail from evert45@home.nl Anybody know anything about this car? Hi Gary, I am a member of the Dutch Healey Club and bought an Austin Healey 3000 MK I, BT7, a couple of months ago that came from the US. Unfortunately the guy that sold me the car was not willing to give me the name of the previous owner; he obviously only wants to make money by selling some Healeys to the Netherlands. My car is H-BT7-L/7554, bodynumber 7738. I wonder if you would by chance have that car somewhere in your register/records. If not would you have any suggestion where I could find a registry of my car? The car was last registered/owned under the name of Thomas Lester McArthur that used to live at 300 Greystone Ter Apt, San Fransisco. Unfortunately I did not find any information on that address in the White or Yellow Pages. Hope you can give me some help or information! Thanks in advance! Regards, Evert Jan de Bruin Vaartweg 27 bs Gravenmoer, Netherlands. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 11:37:06 2010 From: "J. Scott Morris" To: Guy R Day , Alan Seigrist Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 09:27:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Or check out the file at John Sims site:http://www.healey6.com/bulletins/BMC%20Std%20Parts%20Fasteners.pdf or http://tinyurl.com/yc525pl And the glorious sound is back on. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Wed, 3/31/10, Heal;ey wrote: From: Heal;ey Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter To: "Guy R Day" , "Alan Seigrist" , "Healey" , "John Harper" Received: Wednesday, March 31, 2010, 6:47 PM Try This site http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/BMC_fasteners.pdf Bob 1963 BJ7 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Guy R Day" Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 11:48 AM To: "Alan Seigrist" ; "Healey" ; "John Harper" Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Alan, There is a BMC Fastener Decode booklet, part number, AKD2239 which is a 12 page PDF. It only covers UNC, washers and UNF but I can forward a copy of that if you wish. I can't recall where I downloaded it from, sorry. Guy R Day > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 3:16 PM Subject: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter All - Just curious if anyone has some sort of master chart which tells me what type of bolt/screw goes with each Austin part number for BSF / BA bolts and screws. The later UNF numbering is standardized and well documented, but the early numbering with British standard fasteners is quite random. Many thanks, Alan __________________________________________________________________ Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 13:00:41 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: akronzips@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 13:45:24 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? In a message dated 4/1/10 10:41:58 AM, akronzips@aol.com writes: > Editor Gary: > Has any one suggested to him that he try > > www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk > > They will give him the build date and the destination for the car dealer > > > -----Original Message----- > > As I read his e-mail, he wants to know who owned it in the U.S. and/or a way to get in touch with the most recent owner. Though I live in the San Fran area, I don't recall ever having met anyone by the name that he gave. I thought someone else might, or might recognize the VIN number. Cheers Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 16:03:48 2010 From: Bob Haskell To: Editorgary@aol.com Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 17:33:15 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? The car was not listed in the (US) 3000 MkI registry. Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar Editorgary@aol.com wrote: > Just got this e-mail from evert45@home.nl > Anybody know anything about this car? > Hi Gary, > I am a member of the Dutch Healey Club and bought an Austin Healey 3000 MK > I, BT7, a couple of months ago that came from the US. Unfortunately the guy > that sold me the car was not willing to give me the name of the previous > owner; he obviously only wants to make money by selling some Healeys to the > Netherlands. > My car is H-BT7-L/7554, bodynumber 7738. I wonder if you would by chance > have that car somewhere in your register/records. If not would you have any > suggestion where I could find a registry of my car? > The car was last registered/owned under the name of Thomas Lester McArthur > that used to live at 300 Greystone Ter Apt, San Fransisco. Unfortunately I > did not find any information on that address in the White or Yellow Pages. > Hope you can give me some help or information! > Thanks in advance! > Regards, > Evert Jan de Bruin > Vaartweg 27 > bs Gravenmoer, Netherlands. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 16:33:00 2010 From: "Rich C" To: Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 17:43:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter From: Rich C Okay, it's a deal. One of these decades when I have some spare time........... Rich From: Curt/Nancy Arndt Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 8:48 PM To: Heal,ey Cc: Guy R Day ; Alan Seigrist ; Healey ; John Harper ; Rich Chrysler Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF / BA Bolts - Austin Number Converter Listers, I feel we're going around in circles here. The charts that everyone is offering forth are the codes for UNF fasteners that we've known about for years. What has not been done yet to my knowledge is for someone while they are restoring a 100 to document all the BSF and associated Whitworth fasteners with their associated Austin Part number as listed in the parts book. This document will be of interest and help to those restoring a BN1 or 2. Therefore, the next person (Rich Chrysler) restoring a BN1, preferably and early one, like a '53 (Rich Chrysler) is hereby tasked with documenting all BSF and associated Whitworth fasteners. Maybe someone on the Concours Committee (Rich Chrysler) with a good attention to detail. The vendor name on the head and a photo of the fastener would be nice too, so this person should be familiar with taking detailed photos (Rich Chrysler.) Does anyone have any ideas who we could nominate? (Rich Chrysler ;-) Cheers... with my apologies to Rich in advance. Curt _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 16:33:31 2010 From: "Rich C" To: Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 17:45:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Windshield Install on BT7 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Rich C" > Mark, > > 1. The area should be prepared with a swipe of flat (not glossy) paint > brush painted the matching interior trim colour along this area covering > just up and over the ridge on the shroud so the exterior painted surface > is not seen in the resulting small gap between pad and windscreen rubber. > I always then have the scuttle seal installed and the dash top pad fitted. > That will allow decent access to install the trim screws into the forward > corners of the pad. The windscreen seal will not actually touch the dash > pad but will fit immediately ahead of it. > The base seal on the 6 cylinder roadster models fits into the T slot base > of the glass frame. The large lip which faces forward is molded to roll > under itself. This must be forced to come out from being rolled under so > it can sit tight against the painted surface. It's going to require an > assistant to ease that lip out from under. I've used a thin soft nylon > cord with a knot tied in it to pull it out without harming paint, (a bit > of liquid soap or spray lubricant helps here) maintaining enough pressure > so it can't pop back under, while another is working from beneath the dash > pulling down and maintaining pressure with bolts ready. Don't forget the > windscreen post pad must already be on the post base. To maintain this > pressure needed, I use a couple of long tapered pins to go through a body > holes left and right sides, and angle up to catch a windscreen post hole > and force the lot all down far enough to start a bolt. Packing shims may > be needed between post and body for best fit. > > 2. There will be no thinning down of the seal in any way to make it fit. > Of course the ends will be trimmed to length so they lie neatly in > relation to the windscreen post pads. > > Hope this helps. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Mark LaPierre" >> I am trying to get the windshield installed permanently. >> >> Whats the secret ................ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 17:31:53 2010 From: Bob Brown To: Healey List Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 15:48:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque & USPS Well the USPS just out did themselves. Yesterday (3/31) I received my APrill issue of Healey Marque. AN issue that I'nm sure some of you received about a week ago based on questions that havebeena sked about Conclave 2010. TODAY I received my March issue, which was probably mailed about 5 weeks ago. Both ssues are in good shape so it was not a question of a copy being caught in a machine requiring special attention. Wish there was an alternative delivry system. Bob (30 miles west of Chicago not like out in the boonies) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 17:32:22 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Rich C" , Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 18:51:20 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 big help, HUGE help, ELEPHANT SIZE help. Good stuff Richard. Thanks. Last detaily question. There is a small space in the pedestal bottom, should I run the new seal under the pedestal or just up to the edge of it and cut it. If the seal isn't sitting under the pedestal then it will not take as much force to push the pedistals down , obviously , but if that isn't correct then I won't do it. Thanks, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich C" To: "Mark LaPierre" ; Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 9:22 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 > Mark, > > 1. The area should be prepared with a swipe of flat (not glossy) paint > brush painted the matching interior trim colour along this area covering > just up and over the ridge on the shroud so the exterior painted surface > is not seen in the resulting small gap between pad and windscreen rubber. > I always then have the scuttle seal installed and the dash top pad fitted. > That will allow decent access to install the trim screws into the forward > corners of the pad. The windscreen seal will not actually touch the dash > pad but will fit immediately ahead of it. > The base seal on the 6 cylinder roadster models fits into the T slot base > of the glass frame. The large lip which faces forward is molded to roll > under itself. This must be forced to come out from being rolled under so > it can sit tight against the painted surface. It's going to require an > assistant to ease that lip out from under. I've used a thin soft nylon > cord with a knot tied in it to pull it out without harming paint, (a bit > of liquid soap or spray lubricant helps here) maintaining enough pressure > so it can't pop back under, while another is working from beneath the dash > pulling down and maintaining pressure with bolts ready. Don't forget the > windscreen post pad must already be on the post base. To maintain this > pressure needed, I use a couple of long tapered pins to go through a body > holes left and right sides, and angle up to catch a windscreen post hole > and force the lot all down far enough to start a bolt. Packing shims may > be needed between post and body for best fit. > > 2. There will be no thinning down of the seal in any way to make it fit. > Of course the ends will be trimmed to length so they lie neatly in > relation to the windscreen post pads. > > Hope this helps. > > Rich _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 19:15:51 2010 From: John Vrugtman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:09:14 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Marque & USPS Hay, I got mine yesterday as well, and I do live in the boonies. JAV Hightown, VA On 4/1/2010 6:48 PM, Bob Brown wrote: > Well the USPS just out did themselves. Yesterday (3/31) I received my APrill > issue of Healey Marque. AN issue that I'nm sure some of you received about a > week ago based on questions that havebeena sked about Conclave 2010. TODAY I > received my March issue, which was probably mailed about 5 weeks ago. Both > ssues are in good shape so it was not a question of a copy being caught in a > machine requiring special attention. Wish there was an alternative delivry > system. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 20:31:36 2010 From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 21:48:28 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? The British Motor Industry Heritage Trust records and their Heritage certificates are generally useless for tracing the ownership history of a car. From the evidence of 679 certificates in the BJ8 registry files, the only ones that identify (sometimes) the original dealer's name are the ones for UK Home market cars. I have never seen a certificate for a car delivered to the USA that gives a dealer's name. The city identified on the certs is not necessarily the city where the car first sold new, but only the Port of Entry. From there, a car could have been trucked anywhere for its first sale. My BJ8 was delivered to Charleston, South Carolina but sold new in Raleigh, North Carolina -- another state and 300 miles away from Charleston. Certificates for cars that were "Personal Export Delivery" sometimes give the original owner's name. It's getting harder to trace the history of a car due to the mobility of the population, combined with the fact that there is no central location for documenting and preserving the ownership history of a car except the registries. Anyone who wants some future owner of his car to know he existed and had the pleasure of owning the car should enter the car into the appropriate registry. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 10:45 AM To: akronzips@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? In a message dated 4/1/10 10:41:58 AM, akronzips@aol.com writes: > Editor Gary: > Has any one suggested to him that he try > > www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk > > They will give him the build date and the destination for the car dealer _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 21:00:14 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Mark LaPierre" , Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 21:57:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 Mark, No, the seal needs to pinch slightly under the base. If it stops short it will, over time, leave a gap there. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark LaPierre" Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 6:51 PM To: "Rich C" ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 > big help, HUGE help, ELEPHANT SIZE help. Good stuff Richard. Thanks. > > Last detaily question. There is a small space in the pedestal bottom, > should I run the new seal > under the pedestal or just up to the edge of it and cut it. If the seal > isn't sitting under the pedestal then > it will not take as much force to push the pedistals down , obviously , > but if that isn't correct then > I won't do it. > > Thanks, Mark > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rich C" > To: "Mark LaPierre" ; > Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 9:22 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 > > >> Mark, >> >> 1. The area should be prepared with a swipe of flat (not glossy) paint >> brush painted the matching interior trim colour along this area covering >> just up and over the ridge on the shroud so the exterior painted surface >> is not seen in the resulting small gap between pad and windscreen rubber. >> I always then have the scuttle seal installed and the dash top pad >> fitted. That will allow decent access to install the trim screws into the >> forward corners of the pad. The windscreen seal will not actually touch >> the dash pad but will fit immediately ahead of it. >> The base seal on the 6 cylinder roadster models fits into the T slot base >> of the glass frame. The large lip which faces forward is molded to roll >> under itself. This must be forced to come out from being rolled under so >> it can sit tight against the painted surface. It's going to require an >> assistant to ease that lip out from under. I've used a thin soft nylon >> cord with a knot tied in it to pull it out without harming paint, (a bit >> of liquid soap or spray lubricant helps here) maintaining enough pressure >> so it can't pop back under, while another is working from beneath the >> dash pulling down and maintaining pressure with bolts ready. Don't forget >> the windscreen post pad must already be on the post base. To maintain >> this pressure needed, I use a couple of long tapered pins to go through a >> body holes left and right sides, and angle up to catch a windscreen post >> hole and force the lot all down far enough to start a bolt. Packing shims >> may be needed between post and body for best fit. >> >> 2. There will be no thinning down of the seal in any way to make it fit. >> Of course the ends will be trimmed to length so they lie neatly in >> relation to the windscreen post pads. >> >> Hope this helps. >> >> Rich _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 21:32:56 2010 From: I Erbs To: Bob Brown Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 19:42:41 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Marque & USPS It takes mail folk a while to read each issue before delivery I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Apr 1, 2010, at 3:48 PM, Bob Brown wrote: > Well the USPS just out did themselves. Yesterday (3/31) I received > my APrill > issue of Healey Marque. AN issue that I'nm sure some of you received > about a > week ago based on questions that havebeena sked about Conclave > 2010. TODAY I > received my March issue, which was probably mailed about 5 weeks > ago. Both > ssues are in good shape so it was not a question of a copy being > caught in a > machine requiring special attention. Wish there was an alternative > delivry > system. > Bob (30 miles west of Chicago not like out in the boonies) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 22:31:44 2010 From: gene stigen To: Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 20:52:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? So, in my case my '67,HBJ8L/41329, which I bought from the original owner in 1979,who ordered it new while in England in the Navy. Would I be able to get ownership records from Heritage records? I know he was a United Airline pilot& lived Near Seattle, Redondo Beach I think. I'd really like to see if he's still around. cheers Geno > From: sbyers@ec.rr.com > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 21:48:28 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? > > The British Motor Industry Heritage Trust records and their Heritage > certificates are generally useless for tracing the ownership history of a > car. From the evidence of 679 certificates in the BJ8 registry files, the > only ones that identify (sometimes) the original dealer's name are the ones > for UK Home market cars. I have never seen a certificate for a car > delivered to the USA that gives a dealer's name. The city identified on the > certs is not necessarily the city where the car first sold new, but only the > Port of Entry. From there, a car could have been trucked anywhere for its > first sale. My BJ8 was delivered to Charleston, South Carolina but sold new > in Raleigh, North Carolina -- another state and 300 miles away from > Charleston. > Certificates for cars that were "Personal Export Delivery" sometimes give > the original owner's name. > > It's getting harder to trace the history of a car due to the mobility of the > population, combined with the fact that there is no central location for > documenting and preserving the ownership history of a car except the > registries. Anyone who wants some future owner of his car to know he > existed and had the pleasure of owning the car should enter the car into the > appropriate registry. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com > Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 10:45 AM > To: akronzips@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? > > In a message dated 4/1/10 10:41:58 AM, akronzips@aol.com writes: > > > > Editor Gary: > > Has any one suggested to him that he try > > > > www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk > > > > They will give him the build date and the destination for the car dealer > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gstigen@msn.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 00:17:42 2010 From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 22:23:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite on Pawn Shop Wife saw a program trailer on History Channel that said that the Sprite will be on Pawn Shop on Monday. Pawn Shop usually runs two half hour shows back to back so I don't know which one it will be. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 06:20:14 2010 From: jerry wall To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 06:36:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] exotic item for sale - genuine Lucas safety switch kit as i acquired this several years ago on ebay to use for my fog lights, however, since adding AC, i've decided to install a custom engine turned panel where the heater control panel now resides. The Lucas kit does not include switches although it does have the original box and instructions. $65 questions, call me at 214 202-5179 or email me at jerryw@healey.org cheers, -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 08:00:32 2010 From: "T+ B Willig" To: Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 15:11:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch return spring BN2 Hello, the clutch return spring of the BN1/2 is attached to the clutch lever on one side and to ???? on the other side. Please advise Regards Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 09:03:00 2010 From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 07:03:32 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? Geno, the archives at BMIHT do not have any information on owners of the cars, except that sometimes (not always) a car that was personally ordered and purchased in England for eventual export to the USA will give the name of the purchaser. Example: "Personal Export Delivery to Mr. J. Nelson, USA". It isn't very likely that you could locate such a person now unless they have a truly unusual name. If you remember or have a record of the name of the original owner, you might have some luck tracking him down via the internet through sites such as zabasearch. If you don't have a name, or it's something like J. Nelson, there isn't much hope. Happy Healeying! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gene stigen Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 8:52 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Previous owner of HBT7L/7554? So, in my case my '67,HBJ8L/41329, which I bought from the original owner in 1979,who ordered it new while in England in the Navy. Would I be able to get ownership records from Heritage records? I know he was a United Airline pilot& lived Near Seattle, Redondo Beach I think. I'd really like to see if he's still around. cheers Geno _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 10:18:54 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "T+ B Willig" , Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 11:31:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch return spring BN2 Thomas, There is a small bracket that is about 1 1/2" long, with two holes, the larger one for its mounting bolt, and the smaller hole for the return spring. This bracket is fitted to the bell housing mounting bolt that is positioned at about 7 o'clock (lower left area). Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "T+ B Willig" Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 9:11 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Clutch return spring BN2 > Hello, > > > > the clutch return spring of the BN1/2 is attached to the clutch lever on > one > side and to ???? on the other side. > > > > Please advise > > > > Regards > > > > Thomas Willig > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 10:51:14 2010 From: HealeyRick To: healeys@autox.team.net, jerry wall Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 09:02:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] exotic item for sale - genuine Lucas safety switch Jerry, Just want to let you know you can get pre-finished engine turned aluminum or stainless from FPMmetals.com. I'm using it as a false firewall on my Nasty Boy (see the link below for pictures). I don't have the skill, tools or time (not retired yet) to do the engine turning on my own, so this was the easiest solution for me. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 4/2/10, jerry wall wrote: From: jerry wall Subject: [Healeys] exotic item for sale - genuine Lucas safety switch kit as pictured on page 125 of Anderson/Moment restoration manual To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 2, 2010, 7:36 AM i acquired this several years ago on ebay to use for my fog lights, however, since adding AC, i've decided to install a custom engine turned panel where the heater control panel now resides. The Lucas kit does not include switches although it does have the original box and instructions. $65 questions, call me at 214 202-5179 or email me at jerryw@healey.org cheers, -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 12:33:51 2010 From: Bob Johnson To: Healeys Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 13:47:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gotta Brag (No Healey Content) If you happened to see Pres. Obama on CNN today, he was visiting the plant where our younger daughter works. She was the blond with glasses second person to his left on the front row. She got to shake his hand. She said that the whole visit thing has been fun and an amazingly big deal. Her job in prep was to coordinate the communications infrastructure for the visit. She is IT Director for the company. Smiling Dad Bob Johnson BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 13:25:42 2010 From: "Rich C" To: Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 14:07:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Windshield Install on BT7 Ron, They originally used thin (maybe 1/16") aluminum strips about 1" wide by 5" long that had about 1/2" holes aligned for the lower two bolt holes. These are listed in the Spare Parts List as part number 14B2630, Plate, pillar packing, 2 required, but are not illustrated in the list. Depending on the fitting up of the windscreen assembly to the car, I've seen anywhere from none required up to 3 needed per side. Rich From: Ron Ray Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 9:41 AM To: 'Rich C' ; 'Mark LaPierre' ; healeys@Autox.Team.Net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7 Rich, What would you suggest for use as the "packing shims"? Thanks, Ron _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 14:50:34 2010 From: "T+ B Willig" To: Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 21:53:38 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 In the Anderson-Moment book is written on page 52 "A jute pad covering about 70 percent of the tunnel was glued to the underside of the tunnel carpet". Has anybody taken sketches of the outline of this jute pad? Further on it reads: "Tenax snap studs, to which the armrest pad front corners were snapped, were fastened to the carpet cover." Is this correct? Are the Tenax studs really screwed onto the carpet? Please advise Thomas _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 15:33:47 2010 From: "Silvers, Bruce C." To: "'healeys@autox.team.net'" Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 16:23:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trailer If anybody has a Trailex CT-7031 car trailer for sale please contact me. Thanks! ________________________________ Confidentiality Notice: The information in this e-mail (including attachments, if any) is considered confidential and is intended only for the recipient(s) listed above. Any review, use, disclosure, distribution or copying of this e-mail is prohibited except by or on behalf of the intended recipient. If you have received this email in error, please notify me immediately by reply email, delete this email, and do not disclose its contents to anyone. Bingham McCutchen LLP Circular 230 Notice: To ensure compliance with IRS requirements, we inform you that any U.S. federal tax advice contained in this communication is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used by any taxpayer, for the purpose of avoiding any federal tax penalties. Any legal advice expressed in this message is being delivered to you solely for your use in connection with the matters addressed herein and may not be relied upon by any other person or entity or used for any other purpose without our prior written consent. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 20:55:14 2010 From: richard mayor To: healeys Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 02:02:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 rotors Can anyone tell me the actual thickness of a new early 3000 rotor in thousandths of inches. But, I will accept millimeters too. Thanks, Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 22:05:23 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "T+ B Willig" , Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 23:14:16 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 Thomas, I can't help you specifically with the thin jute under padding fitted to the gearbox cover carpet. However I have seen it in the past and it is very thin and simply glues in place on the carpet, staying about 2" back from any edges. The two forward male Tenax studs are attached to the tunnel carpet and float in the carpet. (see picture 20031 showing an original BN2 with arm rest removed) Though they are no doubt not supplied with any kits, the under sides are similar to the female ones where the threaded stud base will go down through the carpet and the threaded locking ring will screw on from below, tightening with the standard Tenax wrench into the two little holes. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "T+ B Willig" > In the Anderson-Moment book is written on page 52 > "A jute pad covering about 70 percent of the tunnel was glued to the > underside of the tunnel carpet". Has anybody taken sketches of the outline > of this jute pad? > Further on it reads: "Tenax snap studs, to which the armrest pad front > corners were snapped, were fastened to the carpet cover." Is this correct? > Are the Tenax studs really screwed onto the carpet? > Please advise > Thomas [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Hundred details 20031.jpg] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 2 22:58:34 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: richard mayor Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 21:07:12 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early 3000 rotors Richard, My shop manual reprint states the following: "Either or both sides may be ground, but no more that 0.040 in. (1.02 mm.) should be removed from each disc, i.e. after grinding the thickness must not be less than 0.335 in. (8.51 mm)." So, whipping out my calculator, that means the disc would be 0.375 in. when new (that's 3/8 in.). That's fairly thin, so I believe it must be for an early (BN7, BT7) rotor. I can't find any thickness spec for a BJ8 disc, but I believe they're closer to a half inch (I have a new one I can measure if you need it). Bob richard mayor wrote: > Can anyone tell me the actual thickness of a new early 3000 rotor in > thousandths of inches. But, I will accept millimeters too. Thanks, > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with > Hotmail. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 > 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 04:57:30 2010 From: "T+ B Willig" To: "'Rich C'" , Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 12:20:48 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 Rich, Woolies in the UK sells felt that might match said padding. Would you say that this padding is 3/8" or 1/4" thick? Regards Thomas -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net] Gesendet: Samstag, 3. April 2010 05:14 An: T+ B Willig; Healeys@autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 Thomas, I can't help you specifically with the thin jute under padding fitted to the gearbox cover carpet. However I have seen it in the past and it is very thin and simply glues in place on the carpet, staying about 2" back from any edges. The two forward male Tenax studs are attached to the tunnel carpet and float in the carpet. (see picture 20031 showing an original BN2 with arm rest removed) Though they are no doubt not supplied with any kits, the under sides are similar to the female ones where the threaded stud base will go down through the carpet and the threaded locking ring will screw on from below, tightening with the standard Tenax wrench into the two little holes. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "T+ B Willig" > In the Anderson-Moment book is written on page 52 > "A jute pad covering about 70 percent of the tunnel was glued to the > underside of the tunnel carpet". Has anybody taken sketches of the > outline of this jute pad? > Further on it reads: "Tenax snap studs, to which the armrest pad front > corners were snapped, were fastened to the carpet cover." Is this correct? > Are the Tenax studs really screwed onto the carpet? > Please advise > Thomas _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 05:57:38 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "T+ B Willig" , Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 07:05:34 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 If you can find that in 1/4" thickness, get it. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "T+ B Willig" Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 6:20 AM To: "'Rich C'" ; Subject: AW: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 > Rich, > > Woolies in the UK sells felt that might match said padding. Would you say > that this padding is 3/8" or 1/4" thick? > > Regards > > > Thomas > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net] > Gesendet: Samstag, 3. April 2010 05:14 > An: T+ B Willig; Healeys@autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 > > Thomas, > > I can't help you specifically with the thin jute under padding fitted to > the > gearbox cover carpet. However I have seen it in the past and it is very > thin > and simply glues in place on the carpet, staying about 2" back from any > edges. > > The two forward male Tenax studs are attached to the tunnel carpet and > float > in the carpet. (see picture 20031 showing an original BN2 with arm rest > removed) Though they are no doubt not supplied with any kits, the under > sides are similar to the female ones where the threaded stud base will go > down through the carpet and the threaded locking ring will screw on from > below, tightening with the standard Tenax wrench into the two little > holes. > > Rich > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "T+ B Willig" > >> In the Anderson-Moment book is written on page 52 >> > "A jute pad covering about 70 percent of the tunnel was glued to the >> underside of the tunnel carpet". Has anybody taken sketches of the >> outline of this jute pad? >> > Further on it reads: "Tenax snap studs, to which the armrest pad front >> corners were snapped, were fastened to the carpet cover." Is this >> correct? >> Are the Tenax studs really screwed onto the carpet? >> > Please advise >> > Thomas _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 06:27:39 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: AustinHealey List Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 22:33:14 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Mt Panorama Bathurst, Australia Hi all, Earlier this evening, i was advised that Peter Hopwood's 2:44.2743 Bathurst Healey lap record, set on Sunday Oct 4th 1998 has been broken today, Sat 3rd April 2010, by Peter Jackson with a lap of 2:43.1543, in a Group Sa Healey 3000 making Peter the new "Healey King of the Mountain". Many of the USA listers will know Peter from his success in the USA V Australia series a few years ago in his very quick white BJ8. Today, Peter was driving his 3000 MK1, and racing in a class with very strict rules regarding mods. Eg no rear disc brakes, no alloy heads, radial tyres, side shift box and SUs The only "historic" group S cars (in a field that comprised cars from 1955- 1977) that were faster than Peter were mid to late 1970s model Porshes. However, Peter also beat a few of those, as well as a couple of Ferarris; and every entry in the field built between 1960 and 1970... Congrats to Peter "Action" Jackson!! Chris Dimmock Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 06:58:52 2010 From: "Guy R Day" To: "Rich C" , "T+ B Willig" Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 13:17:17 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 Most carpet suppliers, especially those who do 'commercial contracts' use this material. It be a better price from them. If you can find one fitting an office block out you'll can get their offcuts for free and have enough for several cars.... Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich C" To: "T+ B Willig" ; Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 12:05 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 > If you can find that in 1/4" thickness, get it. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "T+ B Willig" > Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 6:20 AM > To: "'Rich C'" ; > Subject: AW: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 > >> Rich, >> >> Woolies in the UK sells felt that might match said padding. Would you say >> that this padding is 3/8" or 1/4" thick? >> >> Regards >> >> >> Thomas >> >> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- >> Von: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net] >> Gesendet: Samstag, 3. April 2010 05:14 >> An: T+ B Willig; Healeys@autox.team.net >> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Fitting the armrest pad on BN2 >> >> Thomas, >> >> I can't help you specifically with the thin jute under padding fitted to >> the >> gearbox cover carpet. However I have seen it in the past and it is very >> thin >> and simply glues in place on the carpet, staying about 2" back from any >> edges. >> >> The two forward male Tenax studs are attached to the tunnel carpet and >> float >> in the carpet. (see picture 20031 showing an original BN2 with arm rest >> removed) Though they are no doubt not supplied with any kits, the under >> sides are similar to the female ones where the threaded stud base will go >> down through the carpet and the threaded locking ring will screw on from >> below, tightening with the standard Tenax wrench into the two little >> holes. >> >> Rich >> >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "T+ B Willig" >> >>> In the Anderson-Moment book is written on page 52 >>> >> "A jute pad covering about 70 percent of the tunnel was glued to the >>> underside of the tunnel carpet". Has anybody taken sketches of the >>> outline of this jute pad? >>> >> Further on it reads: "Tenax snap studs, to which the armrest pad front >>> corners were snapped, were fastened to the carpet cover." Is this >>> correct? >>> Are the Tenax studs really screwed onto the carpet? >>> >> Please advise >>> >> Thomas > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday@btinternet.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 07:29:47 2010 From: Pieter and Linda To: Healey forum Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 14:42:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite The French have a lot to answer for on this one, http://cgi.ebay.fr/vends-SPRITE-MK4-AUSTIN-HEALEY_W0QQitemZ300413813255QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFR_JG_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces_Automobiles_Test?hash=item45f20f0207 Cheers Pieter _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 07:30:17 2010 From: "Tracy Drummond" To: "'Chris Dimmock'" , "'AustinHealey List'" Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 05:50:53 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys at Mt Panorama Bathurst, Australia Good on Peter. Wish I were there. Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey@charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 4:33 AM To: AustinHealey List Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Mt Panorama Bathurst, Australia Hi all, Earlier this evening, i was advised that Peter Hopwood's 2:44.2743 Bathurst Healey lap record, set on Sunday Oct 4th 1998 has been broken today, Sat 3rd April 2010, by Peter Jackson with a lap of 2:43.1543, in a Group Sa Healey 3000 making Peter the new "Healey King of the Mountain". Many of the USA listers will know Peter from his success in the USA V Australia series a few years ago in his very quick white BJ8. Today, Peter was driving his 3000 MK1, and racing in a class with very strict rules regarding mods. Eg no rear disc brakes, no alloy heads, radial tyres, side shift box and SUs The only "historic" group S cars (in a field that comprised cars from 1955- 1977) that were faster than Peter were mid to late 1970s model Porshes. However, Peter also beat a few of those, as well as a couple of Ferarris; and every entry in the field built between 1960 and 1970... Congrats to Peter "Action" Jackson!! Chris Dimmock Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 08:57:56 2010 From: "Tracy Drummond" To: "'Pieter and Linda'" , "'Healey forum'" Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 07:27:52 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite Pieter, Arkleys hahahaha yes these should be very fast with the 1275. I bet it makes a breathtaking ride up a twisty hill climb, lightweight for sure. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arkley_(automobile) You have to forgive the French seller though since John Britten Garages workshops at Arkley in the London Borough of Barnet created these through the recycling of old rusty or damaged Austin-Healey Sprites or MG Midgets. I want to "test" drive one, but would be well disguised (grin). Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey@charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pieter and Linda Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 5:43 AM To: Healey forum Subject: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite The French have a lot to answer for on this one, http://cgi.ebay.fr/vends-SPRITE-MK4-AUSTIN-HEALEY_W0QQitemZ300413813255QQcmd ZViewItemQQptZFR_JG_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces_Automobiles_Test?hash=item45f20f0207 Cheers Pieter _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 10:04:47 2010 From: "Mike Brouillette" To: "Tracy Drummond" , "'Pieter and Linda'" Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 11:05:55 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite Better place to see them is: http://www.arkleyss.com/ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 11:29:07 2010 From: I Erbs To: Pieter and Linda Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 09:46:13 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite its so ugly it's kinda cute Clent used these bodies as a basis for a neo classic car built in Santa Barbara,CA back in the 80's small passenger compartment very long hood. http://www.clenetcorner.com/regpix/s1-6.jpg On Sat, Apr 3, 2010 at 5:42 AM, Pieter and Linda wrote: > The French have a lot to answer for on this one, > > > http://cgi.ebay.fr/vends-SPRITE-MK4-AUSTIN-HEALEY_W0QQitemZ300413813255QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFR_JG_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces_Automobiles_Test?hash=item45f20f0207 > > Cheers > Pieter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 11:59:56 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Pieter and Linda Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 19:18:22 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite In fact these do handle quite well. In the days that rusted out Spridgets were worthless it was a perfect way to keep it on the road and have a better performing and handling car in the end, lighter, less inertia and best of all less rust to deal with. Kees Oudesluijs NL Pieter and Linda wrote: > The French have a lot to answer for on this one, > > http://cgi.ebay.fr/vends-SPRITE-MK4-AUSTIN-HEALEY_W0QQitemZ300413813255QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFR_JG_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces_Automobiles_Test?hash=item45f20f0207 > > > Cheers > Pieter > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.800 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2787 - datum van uitgifte: 04/03/10 08:32:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 15:17:18 2010 From: Kent McLean To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 16:22:35 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite I Erbs wrote: > its so ugly it's kinda cute > > Clent used these bodies as a basis for a neo classic car built in Santa > Barbara,CA back in the 80's small passenger compartment very long hood. > http://www.clenetcorner.com/regpix/s1-6.jpg Small passenger compartment, very big everything else: I don't know why, but I want one. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 17:13:30 2010 From: I Erbs To: Kent McLean Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 15:19:05 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite which, the Clinet or the sprite? either way you need help:) On Sat, Apr 3, 2010 at 1:22 PM, Kent McLean wrote: > I Erbs wrote: > >> its so ugly it's kinda cute >> >> Clent used these bodies as a basis for a neo classic car built in Santa >> Barbara,CA back in the 80's small passenger compartment very long hood. >> http://www.clenetcorner.com/regpix/s1-6.jpg >> > > Small passenger compartment, very big everything else: > > > I don't know why, but I want one. > > -- > Kent McLean > '56 100 BN2 > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 17:14:54 2010 From: I Erbs To: healey help Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 15:25:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] su filters http://www.bighealey.co.uk/category/catalogues/austin-healey/fuel/under-bonnet-3000 found these on denis Welch web site for both 1 3/4 and 2" carbs -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 18:15:05 2010 From: "Sid & Maria Bronson" To: "'Healey list'" Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 17:39:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Air filters Does anyone have the Denis Welch air filter for the 2 inch HD8s and how do you like them? Are they a simple install, or do they require modifications? Sid, 65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 19:14:22 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net, Kent McLean Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 19:29:28 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite /BnNSBi: Permission denied _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 23:10:32 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: AustinHealey List Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 14:30:51 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healeys at Mt Panorama Bathurst, Australia Quick update. Today, Sunday 4th April 2008 Peter Jackson again lowered the Austin Healey Bathurst lap record with a new Healey lap record of 2:41.6554. That means the 12 year old lap record set by Peter Hopwood has now been bettered by over 2.6 seconds in the past 48 hours. As Mt Panorama, Bathurst is only available to cars like ours one weekend a year, Peter's "Healey King of the Mountain" title could well stand for quite a while..... Sent from my iPhone Begin forwarded message: > From: Chris Dimmock > Date: 3 April 2010 10:33:14 PM AEDT > To: AustinHealey List > Subject: Healeys at Mt Panorama Bathurst, Australia > > Hi all, > > Earlier this evening, i was advised that Peter Hopwood's 2:44.2743 > Bathurst Healey lap record, set on Sunday Oct 4th 1998 has been > broken today, Sat 3rd April 2010, by Peter Jackson with a lap of > 2:43.1543, in a Group Sa Healey 3000 making Peter the new "Healey > King of the Mountain". > > Many of the USA listers will know Peter from his success in the USA > V Australia series a few years ago in his very quick white BJ8. > Today, Peter was driving his 3000 MK1, and racing in a class with > very strict rules regarding mods. Eg no rear disc brakes, no alloy > heads, radial tyres, side shift box and SUs > The only "historic" group S cars (in a field that comprised cars > from 1955- 1977) that were faster than Peter were mid to late 1970s > model Porshes. However, Peter also beat a few of those, as well as a > couple of Ferarris; and every entry in the field built between 1960 > and 1970... > > Congrats to Peter "Action" Jackson!! > > Chris Dimmock > > Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 07:53:57 2010 From: "allen c miller jr" To: "Healey List" Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 08:08:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Help! I have two cross tubes, four balljoints, and seven castle nuts, and all the necessary rubber blouses to make one usable cross tube assembly. The nuts are all clean, as are the threads on the ball joints. all are from pre-BJ8 Healeys with apparently matching threads. The castle nuts thread down 4 turns apiece +/- half a turn, but won't go further and tend to turn the ball in the joint. How do you tighten them without breaking the rubber lubrication blouses? It appears the nuts were threaded from both sides with a 'waist' just below the castellations. all suggestions appreciated thanks allen miller bn2/m _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 09:27:17 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "allen c miller jr" , "Healey List" Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 09:27:59 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 ball joint cross tube- tight nuts Allen, The castle nuts should thread smoothly all the way through. Many times the top segments of the castle nut have been backed off and then beaten to (incorrectly) try to release the tapered pin portion from its steering arm. The beating causes the segments to collapse inboard and results in an interference thread when used again. If you're going to reuse these castle nuts, run a suitable tap (yours should be 7/16" NF on the BN2 and later) right down through them to clean up and reshape the female thread until the castle nut can spin right onto the male thread. While you're at it run a suitable sized twist drill through the cotter pin holes in the male threaded portion of the pin, and make sure the possibly collapsed and mushroomed castle segments are clear to run the cotter pin too. A little trick: Note where the cotter pin hole runs through the pin and mark the location on the end of the pin with a small file so you can line up the castle segments with this hole to fit the cotter pin. When installing, make sure the tapered male and female surfaces are clean and dry. Maintain some pressure on the joint assembly to help hold them until the pressure of the castle nut locks the tapers together. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "allen c miller jr" Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 8:08 AM To: "Healey List" Subject: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts > Help! > > I have two cross tubes, four balljoints, and seven castle nuts, and all > the > necessary rubber blouses to make one usable cross tube assembly. The nuts > are > all clean, as are the threads on the ball joints. all are from pre-BJ8 > Healeys > with apparently matching threads. The castle nuts thread down 4 turns > apiece > +/- half a turn, but won't go further and tend to turn the ball in the > joint. > How do you tighten them without breaking the rubber lubrication blouses? > It > appears the nuts were threaded from both sides with a 'waist' just below > the > castellations. > > all suggestions appreciated > > thanks > > allen miller bn2/m > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 09:56:26 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: allen c miller jr , Healey List Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 22:01:14 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Have you tried clamping the ball joint into the trackrod before tightening? A big locking C clamp should do the trick. On 4/4/10, allen c miller jr wrote: > Help! > > I have two cross tubes, four balljoints, and seven castle nuts, and all the > necessary rubber blouses to make one usable cross tube assembly. The nuts > are > all clean, as are the threads on the ball joints. all are from pre-BJ8 > Healeys > with apparently matching threads. The castle nuts thread down 4 turns apiece > +/- half a turn, but won't go further and tend to turn the ball in the > joint. > How do you tighten them without breaking the rubber lubrication blouses? It > appears the nuts were threaded from both sides with a 'waist' just below the > castellations. > > all suggestions appreciated > > thanks > > allen miller bn2/m > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 10:26:43 2010 From: "Mr. Bill" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 07:51:15 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite Maybe if you made a donation, Ed? Anon On 4/3/2010 05:29 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > /BnNSBi: Permission denied > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bn1@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 10:56:25 2010 From: Oudesluys To: allen c miller jr Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 17:14:43 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Use new castle nuts. The old ones are probably rusted and deformed when the tapered joints were knocked out using a dirty big hammer on the halfway turned out nuts. You are lucky that appearantly the male threads survived. Kees Oudesluijs NL allen c miller jr wrote: > Help! > > I have two cross tubes, four balljoints, and seven castle nuts, and all the > necessary rubber blouses to make one usable cross tube assembly. The nuts are > all clean, as are the threads on the ball joints. all are from pre-BJ8 Healeys > with apparently matching threads. The castle nuts thread down 4 turns apiece > +/- half a turn, but won't go further and tend to turn the ball in the joint. > How do you tighten them without breaking the rubber lubrication blouses? It > appears the nuts were threaded from both sides with a 'waist' just below the > castellations. > > all suggestions appreciated > > thanks > > allen miller bn2/m > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.800 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2789 - datum van uitgifte: 04/04/10 08:32:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 10:57:33 2010 From: andy pole To: , Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 15:26:05 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Allen another trick is to use a new standard nut, till the shoulder locks, then remove and replace with the castlenut cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 13:01:39 2010 From: "Mike Slechta" To: , , Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 12:08:58 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1958 Morris Isis w/28K miles for sale - not running - If I were 10 yrs. younger - I'd jump on this. Cheers Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: rfeibusch1@earthlink.net To: morris_motors@yahoogroups.com ; arcane_autos@yahoogroups.com ; morris@autox.team.net ; british-cars@autox.team.net ; mgs@autox.team.net Cc: healeys@autox.team.net ; John Voelcker Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 11:14 AM Subject: [Healeys] 1958 Morris Isis w/28K miles for sale - not running - Vernon BC - $2, 500 submitted by John Voelcker Hey Gang. Here is a rare one that should not be hard to get up and running - Very rare in the US - this one is in Canada. Kind of a British Buick - fun for the whole family - uses the same engine as an Austin Healey 100/six...... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BritCarTalk/attachments/folder/1428163782/ite m/853065647/view Best, Rick Feibusch BritishCarNetwork Venice, California _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta@chartermi.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 13:29:19 2010 From: Bob Johnson To: Healeys Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:46:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland Again on Speed 2:00 PM EDT on Speed channel a rerun of the Targa Newfoundland again. Don't know from what year and it's only 20 min away. Bob Johnson BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 13:29:37 2010 From: "Mike Slechta" To: Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 12:52:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Targa Newfoundland All (or those of you that missed it) - Targa Newfoundland is on Speed TV @ 1:00 PM CDT. Cheers Mad Mike _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 13:29:54 2010 From: S and T Miller To: Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:53:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars- Sprite OK, I saw the ad for the square body Sprite to be on "Pawn Stars" again this Monday at 10PM (East)- History channel. Maybe it will actually be on this week and I won't look like an fool. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 13:57:39 2010 From: Robert Blair To: Healey List Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:05:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Targa NewFoundland - SPEED TV - Now - 11am PST >>> targa rally NOW showing on SPEED 11am pst. 100S running. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 13:58:20 2010 From: I Erbs To: healey help Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:09:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Targa new foundland re-broadcast right now 11:00 am pst Just saw the Healey go by -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 13:59:35 2010 From: I Erbs To: healey help Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:13:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] targa on speed channel -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 14:28:47 2010 From: john spaur To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 11:36:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Auto Pictures and More - Non-Healey There are some really interesting photos at this web site including the Ferrari that one 2nd in class at Le Mans and 3rd overall in 1962 along with Jaguars Testarossa's and other cars. They are interspersed with other artistic photos. Great site! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 16:28:14 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: andy pole Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:30:09 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Allen, Oh, and just to be technical they're "Slotted" nuts and not "Castle" or "Castellated" nuts. There is a difference. Cheers, Curt On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 8:26 AM, andy pole wrote: > Allen > > > another trick is to use a new standard nut, till the shoulder locks, then > remove and replace with the castlenut > > > cheers Andy _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 17:55:17 2010 From: john spaur To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 13:59:33 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auto Pictures and More - Non-Healey w/ link Gee... Ed wants the link. Just can't keep him happy! http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmphoto Page 25 and 26 for the Ferrari John At 11:36 AM 4/4/2010 -0700, john spaur wrote: >There are some really interesting photos at this web site including >the Ferrari that one 2nd in class at Le Mans and 3rd overall in 1962 >along with Jaguars Testarossa's and other cars. They are >interspersed with other artistic photos. Great site! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 18:55:43 2010 From: "Guy R Day" To: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" , "andy pole" Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 00:06:44 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Curt, I'm really going to hate myself for asking - what is the difference? Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: "andy pole" Cc: Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:30 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts > Allen, > > Oh, and just to be technical they're "Slotted" nuts and not "Castle" or > "Castellated" nuts. There is a difference. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 8:26 AM, andy pole wrote: > >> Allen >> >> >> another trick is to use a new standard nut, till the shoulder locks, then >> remove and replace with the castlenut >> >> >> cheers Andy > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday@btinternet.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 19:56:30 2010 From: Carlos Cruz To: Healey List Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 17:14:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] What's My Car Worth... In case Pawn Stars doesn't do it for you, there's a new show premiering on April 20th on UDTHR (HD Theater) called What's My Car Worth. The commercial is showing a BRG BJ8 as one of the featured cars. Mark your calendars. Does it belong to anyone on the List? Cheers, Carlos Cruz '60 BN7 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 22:26:51 2010 From: Mark J Bradakis To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 20:41:05 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite Mr. Bill wrote: > Maybe if you made a donation, Ed? > > Anon > > On 4/3/2010 05:29 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > >> /BnNSBi: Permission denied >> Actually for some reason Ed likes to send out mail with several font sizes and colors. And this may be hard to believe, but not everyone on the planet has the exact same computer software and hardware as he does. I know the marketing thugs at Microsoft would like you to think otherwise, but so it goes. Apparently when the filter that processes all Team.Net mail is done cleaning up all the useless fluff embedded in Ed's messages, there is nothing left. Oh well. mjb. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 23:56:01 2010 From: I Erbs To: Mark J Bradakis Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 21:07:55 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] A poor, poor sprite Lol I thought it was one of his better posts I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Apr 4, 2010, at 7:41 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Mr. Bill wrote: >> Maybe if you made a donation, Ed? >> >> Anon >> >> On 4/3/2010 05:29 PM, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: >> >>> /BnNSBi: Permission denied >>> > > Actually for some reason Ed likes to send out mail with several font > sizes and > colors. And this may be hard to believe, but not everyone on the > planet has the > exact same computer software and hardware as he does. I know the > marketing > thugs at Microsoft would like you to think otherwise, but so it goes. > > Apparently when the filter that processes all Team.Net mail is done > cleaning > up all the useless fluff embedded in Ed's messages, there is > nothing left. > > Oh well. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 00:32:42 2010 From: "PG" To: Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 21:35:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers are taken away, the car dies... Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? Unless of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? Paul _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 01:03:42 2010 From: Lawrence Wysocki To: "healeys@autox.team.net" , Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 22:09:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Rania Leventi http://nortekpumps.com/about/index.html _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 01:30:44 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: PG , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:00:36 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question Paul - Your battery may not be bad. If the terminals are corroded, you won't have a complete circuit and the car dies when you pull the jumpers. That's be cause the jumpers are completing the circuit through the other car's battery. Take the battery cables off the battery and run a battery terminal wire cleaner on the terminals and the cable clamps, and reattach. Should fix your problem. Very common problem with a car that isn't driven much. Alan On 4/5/10, PG wrote: > The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers > are taken away, the car dies... > > > > Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? Unless > of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes > down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and > is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 01:54:07 2010 From: F Ronald Rader To: Healey List Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 23:18:22 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What's My Car Worth... IF THAT IS WITH KEITH MARTIN AND THE LISC IS 65 HEALEY THEN THAT IS MY CAR, BRG with tan interior RON rader 1965 BJ8 for sale. On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 5:14 PM, Carlos Cruz wrote: > > In case Pawn Stars doesn't do it for you, there's a new show premiering on April 20th on UDTHR (HD Theater) called What's My Car Worth. The commercial is showing a BRG BJ8 as one of the featured cars. Mark your calendars. Does it belong to anyone on the List? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 05:40:00 2010 From: Oudesluys To: PG Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 12:14:50 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question Paul, The battery should always be connected when running the engine. If not, you may damage the regulator/generator/alternator. In your case it could be a short in the old battery or dirty terminals, broken earth strap, that sort of thing, check first. If that is OK check regulator/generator/alternator. If the battery is kept on a trickle charger it should last about 7-10 years. If not it can be gone within a year or two if the car is not driven regularly. Kees Oudesluijs NL PG wrote: > The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers > are taken away, the car dies... > > > > Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? Unless > of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes > down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and > is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 08:08:07 2010 From: andy pole To: Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 12:40:33 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Curt depands on what you get supplied, slotted nuts have the 'slots' more or less half the height of castle nut 'slots' and as you point out they are different animals, And yes the correct bmc fastener is a slotted. I stand corrected, just pointing out its usually easier to run a standard nut down it first, then replace with the correct one. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 09:41:58 2010 From: Frank Edwards To: Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:01:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere else for that matter? Thanks for the info. 1962 BJ7 1961 Bugeye 1969 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 10:51:35 2010 From: Ron Mitchell To: Frank Edwards , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:16:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers Hi Frank, This guy sells on eBay and usually has front bumpers, rear bumpers and overriders in stock. He usually requires a core but will give you a price without a core. I have contacted him in the past but haven't purchased anything form him maybe some other lister has experience with him. You can email him from this auction page. I lost his email address when I changed operating systems on my computer. http://tinyurl.com/ybfj7ek Ron ________________________________ From: Frank Edwards To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 10:01:01 AM Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere else for that matter? Thanks for the info. 1962 BJ7 1961 Bugeye 1969 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 11:44:39 2010 From: "R. Price Lindsay" To: "Ron Mitchell" , "Frank Edwards" Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 11:00:01 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers I have an original rear bumper and over riders from a 67 BJ8 that I am going to sell. They need to be re-plated but are straight. Any interest from the list? Contact me direct. Price Lindsay -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 10:17 AM To: Frank Edwards; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers Hi Frank, This guy sells on eBay and usually has front bumpers, rear bumpers and overriders in stock. He usually requires a core but will give you a price without a core. I have contacted him in the past but haven't purchased anything form him maybe some other lister has experience with him. You can email him from this auction page. I lost his email address when I changed operating systems on my computer. http://tinyurl.com/ybfj7ek Ron ________________________________ From: Frank Edwards To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 10:01:01 AM Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere else for that matter? Thanks for the info. 1962 BJ7 1961 Bugeye 1969 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL: ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/price@advocateadvisors.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 11:46:03 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Ron Mitchell" , "Frank Edwards" Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 12:03:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers For what it's worth, that guy on Ebay with the bumpers is Brad Del Sorbo. I've bought the Coopers water transfer decals from him a few times, and they are spot on and excellent. and the service was quick. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ron Mitchell" Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 11:16 AM To: "Frank Edwards" ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers > Hi Frank, > > This guy sells on eBay and usually has front bumpers, rear > bumpers and overriders in stock. He usually requires a core but will give > you > a price without a core. I have contacted him in the past but haven't > purchased anything form him maybe some other lister has experience with > him. > You can email him from this auction page. I lost his email address when I > changed operating systems on my computer. http://tinyurl.com/ybfj7ek > > Ron > ________________________________ > From: Frank Edwards > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 10:01:01 AM > Subject: > [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers > > I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. > Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. > > Anyone have > a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones > from VB and > Moss are junk. I want something better than that. > > BCS has what they say is a > good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere > else for that matter? > Thanks for the info. > > > > 1962 BJ7 > > 1961 Bugeye > > 1969 Midget > > Frank R. > Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2@hotmail.com > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has > tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested > annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron@yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 12:17:55 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: andy pole Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 09:17:38 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Gentlemen, If you don't care about fastener minutia, then stop reading now. Slotted vs. Castellated nuts http://www.chinafastener.info/en/images/yp_pic/180.jpg Slotted nut http://www.circlip.biz/images/slotted-nuts.gif This image says it's a castellated nut but is in fact a slotted nut! http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/232348594207797ea6f7aee2db4271d2d3c7c474/3259-CASTLE-NUT.jpg Castellated nut http://componentparts.co.uk/Images/Castle%20Nut%20%28large%29.png A good number of the images on Google claim slotted nuts are castellated nuts and vice versa, so you obviously cannot trust the web on everything. Bottom line... the official source is the Machinery's Handbook. My 16th Edition,1959 volume printing clearly shows the distinction. It also has quite a bit of info on Whitworth Fasteners and UNF, UNC fastener markings that distinguished them from Whitworth. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 5:40 AM, andy pole wrote: > Curt > Depends on what you get supplied, slotted nuts have the 'slots' more or less > half the height of castle nut 'slots' and as you point out they are > different animals, And yes the correct bmc fastener is a slotted. > I stand corrected, just pointing out its usually easier to run a standard > nut down it first, then replace with the correct one. > cheers > > Andy > > _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 12:57:54 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Rich C Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 17:15:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers I bought a refurb'd BJ8 speedometer from him. I believe he is in Connecticut. He was responsive and the goods were as advertised. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA For what it's worth, that guy on Ebay with the bumpers is Brad Del Sorbo. I've bought the Coopers water transfer decals from him a few times, and they are spot on and excellent. and the service was quick. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- > Hi Frank, > > This guy sells on eBay and usually has front bumpers, rear > bumpers and overriders in stock. He usually requires a core but will give > you > a price without a core. I have contacted him in the past but haven't > purchased anything form him maybe some other lister has experience with > him. > You can email him from this auction page. I lost his email address when I > changed operating systems on my computer. http://tinyurl.com/ybfj7ek > > Ron _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 13:33:19 2010 From: I Erbs To: PG Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 10:33:10 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but not a generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging system (generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery depletes. If battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because battery will not holsd a charge On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: > The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers > are taken away, the car dies... > > > > Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? > Unless > of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes > down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and > is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? > > > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 13:33:52 2010 From: "PG" To: "'I Erbs'" Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 10:42:01 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question That's intersting..why will it run on with an alternator and not a generator (assuming a bad battery?) I would have assumed that regardless of the condition of the battery, the car would continue to run as it would be running on the power created by the Gen/Alternator. Paul From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3@gmail.com] Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 10:33 AM To: PG Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but not a generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging system (generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery depletes. If battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because battery will not holsd a charge On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers are taken away, the car dies... Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? Unless of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? Paul _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 14:03:47 2010 From: andy pole To: Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 18:16:10 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Namrick supply both, Bottom of page :) http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp?PCID=5 cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 14:05:01 2010 From: Bob Brown To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 11:19:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers I got new BJ8 bumpers from Auto Farm in Canada last fall, they are a distributor for AHead4Healeys in the UK. Other than they have a weld line on the back side in the center (2 halves welded together) they are excellent. Bob ________________________________ From: Frank Edwards To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 9:01:01 AM Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere else for that matter? Thanks for the info. 1962 BJ7 1961 Bugeye 1969 Midget Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/blkbt7@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 14:35:04 2010 From: andy pole To: , Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 18:57:04 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question Paul A generator is basically a motor in reverse, the only problem is you need higher revs to keep the regulator charging, so unless you keep your foot on the pedal it will not charge at idle (watch the red light on the dash). Alternators will charge at much lower speeds, - one of their benefits. Therefore at idle your battery will not be charging but trying to keep your ignition circuit running. Hopefully your problem is just the load created by a poor battery or connections to it, otherwise you will need to check the regulator and sets its contacts (regulator acts as a relay to switch the current on and off to feed the battery as well as the other circuits). May be worth checking the brushes in the generator as well, may be quite short in length after 40 + years. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 15:34:47 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: I Erbs Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 12:47:03 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question This is backwards and incorrect. A car will run with a generator and a bad / no battery. The old shade tree method to test a generator was to disconnect the battery out of the system to see if the car still ran, if it did the generator was good. (DO NOT DO THIS WITH AN ALTERNATOR EQUIPPED CAR!) I once had a battery stolen out of a generator equipped car, so I jumped the car and drove it to Sears for a new battery. The look on the Sears guy's face was priceless. Alternators on the other hand have to have power in the circuit to excite them. That means there has to be voltage to excite them. No battery = no excitation Rick Sent from my iPhone On Apr 5, 2010, at 10:33, I Erbs wrote: > A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but > not a > generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging > system > (generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery > depletes. If > battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because > battery > will not holsd a charge > > On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: > >> The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the >> jumpers >> are taken away, the car dies... >> >> >> >> Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? >> Unless >> of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates >> sometimes >> down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is >> old and >> is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? >> >> >> >> Paul >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com >> > > > > -- > I Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 16:58:49 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" , "andy pole" Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 17:04:45 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Thanks for the information Curt, The machinists hand book really is the bottom line. Rich From: Curt/Nancy Arndt Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 12:17 PM To: andy pole Cc: acmiller@mhcable.com ; healeys@autox.team.net ; Rich Chrysler Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 balljoint crosstube- tight nuts Gentlemen, If you don't care about fastener minutia, then stop reading now. Slotted vs. Castellated nuts http://www.chinafastener.info/en/images/yp_pic/180.jpg Slotted nut http://www.circlip.biz/images/slotted-nuts.gif This image says it's a castellated nut but is in fact a slotted nut! http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/232348594207797ea6f7aee2db4271d2d3c7c4 74/3259-CASTLE-NUT.jpg Castellated nut http://componentparts.co.uk/Images/Castle%20Nut%20%28large%29.png A good number of the images on Google claim slotted nuts are castellated nuts and vice versa, so you obviously cannot trust the web on everything. Bottom line... the official source is the Machinery's Handbook. My 16th Edition,1959 volume printing clearly shows the distinction. It also has quite a bit of info on Whitworth Fasteners and UNF, UNC fastener markings that distinguished them from Whitworth. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 5:40 AM, andy pole wrote: Curt Depends on what you get supplied, slotted nuts have the 'slots' more or less half the height of castle nut 'slots' and as you point out they are different animals, And yes the correct bmc fastener is a slotted. I stand corrected, just pointing out its usually easier to run a standard nut down it first, then replace with the correct one. cheers Andy _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 17:01:37 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Richard Ewald Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:27:24 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question Listers, Richard is absolutely correct. I can't tell you how many time both my wife and I ran our Sprites with a dead battery because as poor college/working stiffs we couldn't afford a battery right away. My wife ran her car for a week without a battery because it came down to either paying for a new outfit on layaway or buying a new battery... the outfit won. She just parked on a slight incline and jump started her Sprite to get to work and back. Cheers, Curt. On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 12:47 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: > This is backwards and incorrect. > A car will run with a generator and a bad / no battery. The old shade tree > method to test a generator was to disconnect the battery out of the system > to see if the car still ran, if it did the generator was good. (DO NOT DO > THIS WITH AN ALTERNATOR EQUIPPED CAR!) I once had a battery stolen out of a > generator equipped car, so I jumped the car and drove it to Sears for a new > battery. The look on the Sears guy's face was priceless. > Alternators on the other hand have to have power in the circuit to excite > them. That means there has to be voltage to excite them. > No battery = no excitation > Rick > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 5, 2010, at 10:33, I Erbs wrote: > > A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but not a >> generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging system >> (generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery depletes. If >> battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because >> battery >> will not holsd a charge >> >> On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: >> >> The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the >>> jumpers >>> are taken away, the car dies... >>> >>> >>> >>> Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? >>> Unless >>> of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes >>> down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old >>> and >>> is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? >>> >>> >>> >>> Paul >>> _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 18:04:03 2010 From: "PG" To: "'Curt/Nancy Arndt'" , "'Richard Ewald'" Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 15:26:34 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question IF such is the case, then it must be my generator that is faulty......the car does not run unless it has an outside source of power. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curt/Nancy Arndt Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 2:27 PM To: Richard Ewald Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question Listers, Richard is absolutely correct. I can't tell you how many time both my wife and I ran our Sprites with a dead battery because as poor college/working stiffs we couldn't afford a battery right away. My wife ran her car for a week without a battery because it came down to either paying for a new outfit on layaway or buying a new battery... the outfit won. She just parked on a slight incline and jump started her Sprite to get to work and back. Cheers, Curt. On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 12:47 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: > This is backwards and incorrect. > A car will run with a generator and a bad / no battery. The old shade tree > method to test a generator was to disconnect the battery out of the system > to see if the car still ran, if it did the generator was good. (DO NOT DO > THIS WITH AN ALTERNATOR EQUIPPED CAR!) I once had a battery stolen out of a > generator equipped car, so I jumped the car and drove it to Sears for a new > battery. The look on the Sears guy's face was priceless. > Alternators on the other hand have to have power in the circuit to excite > them. That means there has to be voltage to excite them. > No battery = no excitation > Rick > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 5, 2010, at 10:33, I Erbs wrote: > > A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but not a >> generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging system >> (generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery depletes. If >> battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because >> battery >> will not holsd a charge >> >> On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: >> >> The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the >>> jumpers >>> are taken away, the car dies... >>> >>> >>> >>> Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? >>> Unless >>> of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes >>> down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old >>> and >>> is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? >>> >>> >>> >>> Paul >>> _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars@shaw.ca _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 18:58:02 2010 From: Tim Davis BN7 To: Healey list Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 18:18:33 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 interior I need some guidance on completing finishing the floor and transmission tunnel. I have a side shift trans and all carpet is in except for the front floor and both tunnel pieces. My under seat carpet is in loose, didn't know if it glues down or snaps. My rough guess at the installation order is: 1. cover (glue) front tunnel with padding and carpet 2. locate where large tunnel goes and screw it in place to frame 3. screw down front tunnel to edges of footwell and frame at each side 4. cut front floor carpet and pad to fit between sills and side of tunnel, glue pad to carpet 5. install snaps to locate carpet 6. fit carpet over large tunnel section and fit snaps to attach 7. is carpet under seats glued or snapped? Thanks in advance Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 18:59:37 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 18:23:24 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question << My wife ran her car for a week without a battery because it came down to either paying for a new outfit on layaway or buying a new battery... the outfit won. >> Well Curt, THAT makes PERFECT "sense", right -:)-:)-:) ?!? << She just parked on a slight incline and jump started her Sprite to get to work and back. >> As I believe most folks "out-by-youse" know that Nancy IS a Sprite person, the only question would be: WHEN is HER car gonna return to it's VERY RARE state of being Nevada Beige ?!?!? Anon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 20:29:13 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Tim Davis BN7" , "Healey list" Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 20:51:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 interior Tim, Before we go any further, is this a commercial kit or are you working this carpet from scratch? I can help you here including pictures, but it will make a big difference depending on whose carpet set you're using and if it's cut and detailed per original or not. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tim Davis BN7" Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 7:18 PM To: "Healey list" Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 interior > I need some guidance on completing finishing the floor and transmission > tunnel. I have a side shift trans and all carpet is in except for the > front floor and both tunnel pieces. My under seat carpet is in loose, > didn't know if it glues down or snaps. My rough guess at the installation > order is: > 1. cover (glue) front tunnel with padding and carpet > 2. locate where large tunnel goes and screw it in place to frame > 3. screw down front tunnel to edges of footwell and frame at each side > 4. cut front floor carpet and pad to fit between sills and side of tunnel, > glue pad to carpet > 5. install snaps to locate carpet > 6. fit carpet over large tunnel section and fit snaps to attach > 7. is carpet under seats glued or snapped? > > Thanks in advance > > Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 21:00:35 2010 From: Richard Kahn To: , Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 17:53:28 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers Check with Tom at British Miles. He does have a lot of hard to find stuff. He is in Morrisville, PA. Phone 215 736-3089. Busy guy can be grumpy but knows his stuff. Lots of NOS and reconditioned use stuff. Once you get to know him he is a nice guy. Tell him Rich from Tahoe referred you and he may be nicer. Rich Kahn > From: logical2@hotmail.com > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:01:01 +0000 > Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers > > I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. > > > > Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. > > Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the ones > from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. > > BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or anywhere > else for that matter? > > Thanks for the info. > > > > 1962 BJ7 > > 1961 Bugeye > > 1969 Midget > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2@hotmail.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 21:01:22 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 21:14:17 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 226 In a message dated 4/5/10 4:59:40 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > Alternators on the other hand have to have power in the circuit to > excite them. That means there has to be voltage to excite them. > No battery = no excitation > Fascinating, Now maybe you can explain why my race car with an alternator in the ignition circuit, and a battery hooked to ground with a cut-off switch, would happily continue to run when I switched off the battery. Tracy has just rewired it so that the cut-off switch now has four terminals, two for the ground cable to the battery, and two that connect the alternator into the ignition circuit. Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 21:57:04 2010 From: dwflagg To: tahoehealey@hotmail.com Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:02:26 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers Gee, That sounds a bit like ED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > Check with Tom at British Miles. He does have a lot of hard to find > stuff. He > is in Morrisville, PA. Phone 215 736-3089. Busy guy can be grumpy > but knows > his stuff. Lots of NOS and reconditioned use stuff. Once you get to > know him > he is a nice guy. Tell him Rich from Tahoe referred you and he may > be nicer. > Rich Kahn > > From: logical2@hotmail.com > > To: healeys@autox.team.net > > Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:01:01 +0000 > > Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers > > > > I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. > > > > > > > > Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. > > > > Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe > that the > ones > > from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. > > > > BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast > or > anywhere > > else for that matter? > > > > Thanks for the info. > > > > > > > > 1962 BJ7 > > > > 1961 Bugeye > > > > 1969 Midget > > > > Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2@hotmail.com > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from > your > inbox. > > > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL > > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey@hotmail.com > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more > from your > inbox. > N:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg@juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bba964d278e9111ea1st01duc _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 21:58:22 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Carlos Cruz'" , "'Healey List'" Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 22:11:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What's My Car Worth... On HD Theater there is a show called Classic Car Club which apparently is going to show a Healey 3000 (not sure of model). The show is listed for several times that day. Check your local listings for times, etc. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carlos Cruz Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 8:14 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] What's My Car Worth... In case Pawn Stars doesn't do it for you, there's a new show premiering on April 20th on UDTHR (HD Theater) called What's My Car Worth. The commercial is showing a BRG BJ8 as one of the featured cars. Mark your calendars. Does it belong to anyone on the List? Cheers, Carlos Cruz '60 BN7 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 21:58:58 2010 From: Bob To: Healey List Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 22:25:38 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 226 Alternators Some do some don't... There are "self exciting alternators" that use the residual magnetism in them to generate the required field currents. So both are correct, is and is not required, you need to get the correct one. Bob On 4/5/2010 9:14 PM, Editorgary@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 4/5/10 4:59:40 PM,healeys-request@autox.team.net > writes: > > > >> Alternators on the other hand have to have power in the circuit to >> excite them. That means there has to be voltage to excite them. >> No battery = no excitation >> >> > Fascinating, Now maybe you can explain why my race car with an alternator > in the ignition circuit, and a battery hooked to ground with a cut-off > switch, would happily continue to run when I switched off the battery. Tracy > has > just rewired it so that the cut-off switch now has four terminals, two for > the ground cable to the battery, and two that connect the alternator into the > ignition circuit. > Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 22:27:41 2010 From: S and T Miller To: Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:37:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars Figures, the one Rick gets taken on was an Austin Healey Sprite. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 22:28:35 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:51:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas Sprit up date on Pawn Stars. Looks like there may be a nice 64 Sprite sitting at the Las Vegas Pawn Shop just waiting for the right buyer. Over all condition looked very nice except for the blown engine. Bad crank and what ever else is bad in the engine. The shop owner has $5000. in it and wants to sell it "as is" cause the estimate from his friend at Rusty Bolts restoration shop was $6000. to rebuild the engine. WOW! That is high. Thats where the show left off. Who knows how old the TV show is , but the car could still be sitting there. Anybody know where this pawn shop on Pawn Stars is? Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 23:25:28 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Mark LaPierre Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 20:37:49 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas Vegas. bs Mark LaPierre wrote: > Sprit up date on Pawn Stars. > > Looks like there may be a nice 64 Sprite sitting at the Las Vegas Pawn Shop > just waiting for > the right buyer. Over all condition looked very nice except for the blown > engine. Bad crank > and what ever else is bad in the engine. > > The shop owner has $5000. in it and wants to sell it "as is" cause the > estimate from his friend > at Rusty Bolts restoration shop was $6000. to rebuild the engine. WOW! That > is high. > > Thats where the show left off. > > Who knows how old the TV show is , but the car could still be sitting there. > > Anybody know where this pawn shop on Pawn Stars is? > > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 23:26:13 2010 From: prittenhouse2@verizon.net To: lapierrem@sbcglobal.net Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 22:46:22 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas /dbbpeo: Permission denied _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 02:38:02 2010 From: John Harper To: PG Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 08:05:46 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question If we stick to just a generator system with a battery that is flat or not holding its charge then the normal situation is that once the generator voltage has dropped to the point where the spark is too weak to fire the mixture the engine will stall and obviously cannot be restarted. This does not, by the way, apply to a battery with internal shorts still connected. More than once over a fifty year period have I managed to get a car going with help, booster leads and with the battery disconnected. The trick is then to keep the revolutions up. Winding the idle speed adjustment screw up fully is usually enough but one has to be very careful when driving to keep the revs high at all times. I have not tried this with an alternator. Best regards >That's intersting..why will it run on with an alternator and not a generator >(assuming a bad battery?) > > > >I would have assumed that regardless of the condition of the battery, the >car would continue to run as it would be running on the power created by the >Gen/Alternator. > > > >Paul > > > >From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3@gmail.com] >Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 10:33 AM >To: PG >Cc: healeys@autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical Question > > > >A car will continue to run on an alternator with a bad battery, but not a >generator. If you use a fully charged battery, with a bad charging system >(generator/voltage regulator) it will run untill the battery depletes. If >battery is dead and other components good, it will no trun, because battery >will not holsd a charge > >On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 9:35 PM, PG wrote: > >The car starts on jumpers from another vehicle..but, as soon as the jumpers >are taken away, the car dies... > > > >Even if the battery is bad, should the car not run on the generator? Unless >of course, it is bad. It reads about 12 volts but vascilates sometimes >down to 4 or 5 volts then back up again...rapidly. The Battery is old and >is likely finished. However, should the car not run regardless? > > -- John Harper _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 05:51:02 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 06:30:27 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas Good point. They certainly didn't get into any details that would back up his findings except that it was making a noise. That's TV drama for ya. We'll probably never here the ending to the story cause so far they haven't continued one episode into another one. Maybe it was just a dramatic , made for TV episode anyway. That car looked like it had a total restoration done on it so its hard to believe that someone didn't complete the job with a decent engine redo. Well , thats enough of that. I now return you to your regularly scheduled Healey Stuff. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: prittenhouse2@verizon.net To: lapierrem@sbcglobal.net Cc: healeys@Autox.Team.Net Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 11:46 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas They said it had spun a main bearing. How would an average garage mechanic be able to know that? Apparently he started and drove it. Would a compression test tell you? Phil _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 06:07:18 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Richard Kahn" , , Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 06:44:32 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers Isn't this the company that had a lot of neg. feed back a few years ago. Why hassle with somebodys bad attitude. It usually isn't worth it in the long run. JMHO, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Kahn" To: ; Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 8:53 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers > Check with Tom at British Miles. He does have a lot of hard to find stuff. > He > is in Morrisville, PA. Phone 215 736-3089. Busy guy can be grumpy but > knows > his stuff. Lots of NOS and reconditioned use stuff. Once you get to know > him > he is a nice guy. Tell him Rich from Tahoe referred you and he may be > nicer. > Rich Kahn >> From: logical2@hotmail.com >> To: healeys@autox.team.net >> Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 14:01:01 +0000 >> Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Bumpers >> >> I had no idea chrome plating cost so much money. >> >> >> >> Took my rear bumper to the plater and he said it's too far gone. >> >> Anyone have a good source for bumpers? I have heard and believe that the > ones >> from VB and Moss are junk. I want something better than that. >> >> BCS has what they say is a good one. Anything on the east coast or > anywhere >> else for that matter? >> >> Thanks for the info. >> /Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 07:36:18 2010 From: Charlie Baldwin To: S and T Miller Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 08:11:30 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pawn Stars I would have thought that someone in the area would have a used engine that may have been better than the one he had. Of course the amount of screwing around that you or I would do would be a lot more than he was interested in. Those guys seem to have quite a high gross profit margin, usually around 100%. It is hard to believe that overhead would be so high as to warrant that. Normal companies have a 10-15% gross profit with net being half or less of that. S and T Miller wrote: > Figures, the one Rick gets taken on was an Austin Healey Sprite. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie@comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 08:51:32 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Mark LaPierre Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 06:30:15 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas Anybody see the same show I did? The 'average garage mechanic' was a restoration specialist ('Rusty Nuts Rods and Customs'). They said a main bearing was spun, pointed to the crankshaft hanging on the wall and said the journals in the crank were shot (probably the major expense to rebuild the engine). They left it at 'I don't know what to do with this car.' I bet they follow up on it in a later episode (they made a big deal out of the father/son conflict). bs Mark LaPierre wrote: > Good point. They certainly didn't get into any details that would back up > his findings except that it > was making a noise. That's TV drama for ya. We'll probably never here the > ending to the story > cause so far they haven't continued one episode into another one. > > Maybe it was just a dramatic , made for TV episode anyway. That car looked > like it had a total > restoration done on it so its hard to believe that someone didn't complete the > job with a decent engine > redo. > > Well , thats enough of that. I now return you to your regularly scheduled > Healey Stuff. > > Mark > > > > They said it had spun a main bearing. How would an average garage mechanic > be able to know that? Apparently he started and drove it. Would a compression > test tell you? > > Phil > > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 09:24:05 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Mark LaPierre Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 06:59:50 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas Should have said 'pointed to A crankshaft hanging on the wall' ... I'm not sure it was their crank (looked too shiny). Anyway, you can diagnose a spun bearing and shot crank by dropping the pan and pulling the bearing caps, no? bs Bob Spidell wrote: > Anybody see the same show I did? > > The 'average garage mechanic' was a restoration specialist ('Rusty > Nuts Rods and Customs'). They said a main bearing was spun, pointed > to the crankshaft hanging on the wall and said the journals in the > crank were shot (probably the major expense to rebuild the engine). > > They left it at 'I don't know what to do with this car.' I bet they > follow up on it in a later episode (they made a big deal out of the > father/son conflict). > > bs > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 09:39:47 2010 From: Charlie Baldwin To: Mark LaPierre Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 10:24:03 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas The shot of the crankshaft on the wall was a bit confusing because they then panned to the engine still sitting in the car. I took it to be some old crank from another engine that he had to show the pawn guy what a crankshaft looked like. Bob Spidell wrote: > Anybody see the same show I did? > > The 'average garage mechanic' was a restoration specialist ('Rusty > Nuts Rods and Customs'). They said a main bearing was spun, pointed > to the crankshaft hanging on the wall and said the journals in the > crank were shot (probably the major expense to rebuild the engine). > > They left it at 'I don't know what to do with this car.' I bet they > follow up on it in a later episode (they made a big deal out of the > father/son conflict). > > bs > > > Mark LaPierre wrote: >> Good point. They certainly didn't get into any details that would >> back up >> his findings except that it >> was making a noise. That's TV drama for ya. We'll probably never >> here the >> ending to the story >> cause so far they haven't continued one episode into another one. >> >> Maybe it was just a dramatic , made for TV episode anyway. That >> car looked >> like it had a total >> restoration done on it so its hard to believe that someone didn't >> complete the >> job with a decent engine >> redo. >> >> Well , thats enough of that. I now return you to your regularly >> scheduled >> Healey Stuff. >> >> Mark >> >> >> >> They said it had spun a main bearing. How would an average garage >> mechanic >> be able to know that? Apparently he started and drove it. Would a >> compression >> test tell you? >> >> Phil >> >> >> > > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie@comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 10:36:23 2010 From: Phil Rittenhouse To: Bob Spidell Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2010 08:10:33 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas Sorry Bob, If I (i.e. an average mechanic) was interested in this car, how would I be able to tell it had the problems described while looking at it in someones driveway? Or could I? Phil Sent from my iPhone On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:59 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Should have said 'pointed to A crankshaft hanging on the wall' ... > I'm not sure it was their crank (looked too shiny). > > Anyway, you can diagnose a spun bearing and shot crank by dropping > the pan and pulling the bearing caps, no? > > > bs > > > Bob Spidell wrote: >> Anybody see the same show I did? >> >> The 'average garage mechanic' was a restoration specialist ('Rusty >> Nuts Rods and Customs'). They said a main bearing was spun, >> pointed to the crankshaft hanging on the wall and said the journals >> in the crank were shot (probably the major expense to rebuild the >> engine). >> >> They left it at 'I don't know what to do with this car.' I bet >> they follow up on it in a later episode (they made a big deal out >> of the father/son conflict). >> >> bs >> >> >> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/prittenhouse2@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 10:37:12 2010 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: healey help Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 08:19:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pawn Stars That show has the items set up and supplied by various dealers. I know for sure on some guitars that were featured. The store that supplied them even mentions it on their website! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 11:08:27 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Phil Rittenhouse Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 08:41:26 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas Bad rod bearings knock, bad main bearings have oil pressure issues (as in not nearly enough) Rick On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 8:10 AM, Phil Rittenhouse wrote: > Sorry Bob, > > If I (i.e. an average mechanic) was interested in this car, how would I be > able to tell it had the problems described while looking at it in someones > driveway? Or could I? > > Phil _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 12:08:36 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Phil Rittenhouse Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 16:42:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite Lovers in Las Vegas Huh? Twasn't me called them average mechanics (note the quotes in my message). I believe the original post was referring to the mechanics that diagnosed the problem; i.e. Rusty Nuts (great name), the only mechanics of any sort--average or otherwise--that were on the show. Presumably, they heard the noises in the engine and dropped the pan and main bearing caps (probably did compression checks and borescoping first). If I missed the intent of that message I apologize. Like I said, I must have watched a different version of the show. Rick bought a box Sprite without even seeing it run--he trusted the seller who 'drove it down here'--surprising behavior for Rick (usually a real skeptic). He had to charge the battery to even get it to start, drove it to the shop where it was diagnosed by some guys who looked--based on what I could see in the show--to be (very) professional mechanics. Nobody--average mechanic or pro--can definitively diagnose the cause of a noise without doing the proper diagnostics (but anyone can speculate). To diagnose main bearing and crank issues you have to drop the pan (AFAIK--an oil analysis might hint at bearing problems). Rick was quite complimentary about Austin-Healeys and the 'fan clubs.' bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Sorry Bob, If I (i.e. an average mechanic) was interested in this car, how would I be able to tell it had the problems described while looking at it in someones driveway? Or could I? Phil Sent from my iPhone On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:59 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Should have said 'pointed to A crankshaft hanging on the wall' ... > I'm not sure it was their crank (looked too shiny). > > Anyway, you can diagnose a spun bearing and shot crank by dropping > the pan and pulling the bearing caps, no? > > > bs > > > Bob Spidell wrote: >> Anybody see the same show I did? >> >> The 'average garage mechanic' was a restoration specialist ('Rusty >> Nuts Rods and Customs'). They said a main bearing was spun, >> pointed to the crankshaft hanging on the wall and said the journals >> in the crank were shot (probably the major expense to rebuild the >> engine). >> >> They left it at 'I don't know what to do with this car.' I bet >> they follow up on it in a later episode (they made a big deal out >> of the father/son conflict). >> >> bs _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 12:58:08 2010 From: "PG" To: Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 10:25:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cape Carb Access Panel Does anybody have a picture of an installed Cape International Carb Access Panel they can send me? Thanks Paul _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 14:06:23 2010 From: andy pole To: Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 18:43:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] bj8 simmons hammer Guys Anyone got a description / size or picture of the simmons lead hammer supplied in the toolkits from 64 onwards please. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 19:54:02 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: andy pole , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:28:14 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 simmons hammer I think they are identical to what was supplied with late MGBs. On 4/7/10, andy pole wrote: > Guys > > Anyone got a description / size or picture of the simmons lead hammer > supplied > in the toolkits from 64 onwards please. > > cheers Andy > > _________________________________________________________________ > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ > We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us > now > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 20:39:29 2010 From: "allen c miller jr" To: "Healey List" Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 21:02:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] slotted nuts - thanks Thanks to the many who replied to the thread about getting the ball joints mounted. it turned out the damage was to the threads of the ball joint posts; the nuts were in the main innocent. i was able to run a thread tap part way down to get the nuts threads clean up to the castellations. also was able to use a detailing file to clean the mars on the balljoint posts. between the two everything fell into place. allen miller 100m _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 20:45:03 2010 From: "Carr&Edwards" To: Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 21:24:34 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Last spring I finally found a nice LED brake light for my MG-TD at www.jandlenterprise.com -- their BrakeLighter is 12"x<1", exterior mount [website doesn't say so, but it is--all molded plastic]. We made two aluminum brackets, similar to badge-bar clips, to fasten it to the luggage rack, and wired it to plug into the trailer-light plug. [If we're towing the trailer, we really don't need the extra brake light--trailer lights are huge.] I'll be buying one for the Healey at Rhinebeck next month; now to figure out a way to mount this one without drilling holes in the deck lid.... Sarah Carr BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "robert westcott" <55healey@comcast.net> To: "edic" Cc: Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 11:57 AM Subject: [Healeys] brake switch > Hi Mel, > > Did the exact thing about 5 years ago, used to have to stomp the brakes > to turn on the lights even with a new pressure switch. > I have it set to turn them on when I just touch the pedal. A bright 3rd > LED light that is attached to the trunk with magnets completes the > package. > I bought the lED strip from Watson's as well and machined a bracket to > fit the curve of the trunk. It pops off and slips in the trunk for > shows. > This light has saved my butt (and the Healy's tail) many times. > > Rob _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 21:50:28 2010 From: "Alex" To: Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:05:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] O/D relay repair The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, dropping the O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a replacement! No way, Jose. I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. This is very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts were almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains of the original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed clean the external screw contacts. Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was from a BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. I then lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical insulating paper (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the original Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type solder terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. Back in business for less than $5. == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 23:25:07 2010 From: Jess Power To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:48:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] transmission leaks I know most british cars leak a little oil.I believe there is an aftermarket kit to solve this problem.Does anyone know who makes the kits for a 1959 bugeye? Also I have seen some people using Datsun transmissions with 1275cc bugeye engines.Do these require machining to fit correctly?Which transmission would be the easiest to fit? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 23:27:30 2010 From: Bruce Griffin To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 23:54:45 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] Healey helps Prius Just a comment on how far we have come. Last night I needed to move a 2007 Priuis out of the garage to get access to the lawn tractor (it is time to start cutting grass in North Carolina). Our family has three Prius' and one Healey. The older Prius shares the garage with the Healey BT-7. The Prius is so dependent on its electronics that I could not get into the trunk with the battery dead to access it for service (the battery location is the same as the Healey and it too has push button start). Fortunately the Prius hood (bonnet) release is mechanical (everything else is electronic including door locks and transmission shift, when its dead you can't even push it out of the way) and I could access the jump start post on the fuse box. After some thought I realized the obvious solution. Open the boot of the Healey, pull the choke cable out, and push the start button on the Healey (never got in the car). It started right up after months of storage (a problem for the Prius). I grabbed jumper cables, connected the positive ground car to the modern miracle. The Prius came to life thanks to the simple technology of the Austin-Healey. It is supposed to be 80 degrees F tomorrow, so it is time to drive some ancient technology that works largely without too much reliance on electronic technology. Regards, Bruce D. Griffin Summerfield, NC, USA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 23:54:39 2010 From: Jean Caron To: , Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 04:28:42 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] transmission leaks If you do not add oil, ever, it will eventually stop leaking, guarantee. Jean Caron > From: jessmd1@comcast.net > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:48:23 -0500 > Subject: [Healeys] transmission leaks > > I know most british cars leak a little oil.I believe there is an > aftermarket kit to solve this problem.Does anyone know who makes the > kits for a 1959 bugeye? Also I have seen some people using Datsun > transmissions with 1275cc bugeye engines.Do these require machining to > fit correctly?Which transmission would be the easiest to fit? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho tmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Live connected. Get Hotmail & Messenger on your phone. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724462 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 00:56:59 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Bruce Griffin , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:26:10 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey helps Prius I used my Jag Mk IX to jump start a brand new Lamborghini in my apartment block a couple weeks ago, apparently if a new Lambo sits for more than two weeks she won't have any juice left. Of course I've have my healeys sit as long as 12 months, always starts!!! Incidentally, that Lambo battery is not that easy to get to either! Needs a lot of juice to turn over that monster tractor motor! On 4/7/10, Bruce Griffin wrote: > Just a comment on how far we have come. > > Last night I needed to move a 2007 Priuis out of the garage to get access to > the lawn tractor (it is time to start cutting grass in North Carolina). Our > family has three Prius' and one Healey. The older Prius shares the garage > with > the Healey BT-7. The Prius is so dependent on its electronics that I could > not > get into the trunk with the battery dead to access it for service (the > battery > location is the same as the Healey and it too has push button start). > Fortunately the Prius hood (bonnet) release is mechanical (everything else > is > electronic including door locks and transmission shift, when its dead you > can't even push it out of the way) and I could access the jump start post on > the fuse box. After some thought I realized the obvious solution. Open the > boot of the Healey, pull the choke cable out, and push the start button on > the > Healey (never got in the car). It started right up after months of storage > (a > problem for the Prius). I grabbed jumper cables, connected the positive > ground > car to the modern miracle. The Prius came to life thanks to the simple > technology of the Austin-Healey. > > It is supposed to be 80 degrees F tomorrow, so it is time to drive some > ancient technology that works largely without too much reliance on > electronic > technology. > > Regards, > Bruce D. Griffin > Summerfield, NC, USA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 01:17:38 2010 From: Pieter and Linda To: "Alex" Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 07:47:37 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair Clever fix Alex. $200 for new one?? I am pretty sure the relay is a SRB111 and you can get them from www.holden.co.uk for 25pounds and even cheaper from Stafford Vehicle Components. Mind you, your repair is probably quicker than the post and cheaper as well. cheers Pieter On 07/04/2010, at 4:05 AM, Alex wrote: > The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, > dropping the > O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I > determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a > replacement! No way, Jose. > > I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. > This is > very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts > were > almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. > > So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains of the > original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed clean the > external screw contacts. > > Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was > from a > BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. > > I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. > I then > lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical > insulating paper > (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the > original > Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type solder > terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. > > The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. > Back in > business for less than $5. > > == Alex in Maine > "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 > "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 > Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, > 1965 MG Midget > http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm > > > [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried > to parse but could not find any section which it could render. > Please send plain text.] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pieters@pt.lu _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 04:09:07 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Alex Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 10:46:57 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair These are fixes I love. Well done. Kees Oudesluijs NL Alex wrote: > The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, dropping the > O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I > determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a > replacement! No way, Jose. > > I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. This is > very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts were > almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. > > So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains of the > original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed clean the > external screw contacts. > > Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was from a > BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. > > I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. I then > lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical insulating paper > (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the original > Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type solder > terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. > > The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. Back in > business for less than $5. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 07:40:38 2010 From: "Ed Woods" To: "Jess Power" , Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:12:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite 5 speed http://www.rivergate5speed.com/rivergate.html _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 08:09:53 2010 From: "Alex" To: "Pieter and Linda" Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:42:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair The price I mentioned was from perusing the British Specialists catalog and the Moss catalog. Check it out. Thanks for the information though! == Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pieter and Linda" To: "Alex" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:47 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair > Clever fix Alex. $200 for new one?? I am pretty sure the relay is a > SRB111 and you can get them from www.holden.co.uk for 25pounds and > even cheaper from Stafford Vehicle Components. Mind you, your repair > is probably quicker than the post and cheaper as well. > cheers > Pieter > On 07/04/2010, at 4:05 AM, Alex wrote: > >> The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, >> dropping the >> O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I >> determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a >> replacement! No way, Jose. >> >> I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. >> This is >> very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts >> were >> almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. >> >> So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains of the >> original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed clean the >> external screw contacts. >> >> Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was >> from a >> BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. >> >> I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. >> I then >> lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical >> insulating paper >> (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the >> original >> Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type solder >> terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. >> >> The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. >> Back in >> business for less than $5. >> >> == Alex in Maine >> "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 >> "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 >> Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, >> 1965 MG Midget >> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 08:41:38 2010 From: "Alex" To: "Pieter and Linda" Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 09:16:27 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair Hi again Pieter, I looked up the SRB111 relay that you mentioned, and it looks like it could be a substitute, but would require modification of the wiring terminals. Purists might want to retain the original O/D relay enclosure, which my repair/modification does. Highest regards, == Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex" To: "Pieter and Linda" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 8:42 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair > The price I mentioned was from perusing the British Specialists catalog > and > the Moss catalog. Check it out. > > Thanks for the information though! > > == Alex > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pieter and Linda" > To: "Alex" > Cc: > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:47 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair > > >> Clever fix Alex. $200 for new one?? I am pretty sure the relay is a >> SRB111 and you can get them from www.holden.co.uk for 25pounds and >> even cheaper from Stafford Vehicle Components. Mind you, your repair >> is probably quicker than the post and cheaper as well. >> cheers >> Pieter >> On 07/04/2010, at 4:05 AM, Alex wrote: >> >>> The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, >>> dropping the >>> O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I >>> determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a >>> replacement! No way, Jose. >>> >>> I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. >>> This is >>> very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts >>> were >>> almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. >>> >>> So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains of the >>> original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed clean the >>> external screw contacts. >>> >>> Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was >>> from a >>> BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. >>> >>> I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. >>> I then >>> lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical >>> insulating paper >>> (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the >>> original >>> Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type solder >>> terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. >>> >>> The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. >>> Back in >>> business for less than $5. >>> >>> == Alex in Maine >>> "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 >>> "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 >>> Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, >>> 1965 MG Midget >>> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 09:27:19 2010 From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Ed Woods" , "Jess Power" Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:47:49 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite 5 speed My brother used the Rivergate kit, as have several club members, it works well, I think there may be an issue with clutch slave or master that can give you a hard/hair trigger clutch. The Datsun 5 speeds are getting hard to find as many available in the scrapyards have been scooped up, but perserverance turns them up from time to time. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 10:41:12 2010 From: David Nock To: Bruce Griffin Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:14:55 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey helps Prius Bruce, Many of the newer cars that have their batteries in the trunk along with electronic trunk locks also have a key hole stashed somewhere. The Jaguars have a electric trunk latch but there also is a key in the XK8 logo, the S type is hidden under the trunk handle. They also have a main battery stud under the hood that a jumper can be connected to to power up the electrical system. So i would bet that there is a key hole somewhere hidden that gives access to the trunk David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 6, 2010, at 8:54 PM, Bruce Griffin wrote: > Just a comment on how far we have come. > > Last night I needed to move a 2007 Priuis out of the garage to get > access to > the lawn tractor (it is time to start cutting grass in North > Carolina). Our > family has three Prius' and one Healey. The older Prius shares the > garage with > the Healey BT-7. The Prius is so dependent on its electronics that > I could not > get into the trunk with the battery dead to access it for service > (the battery > location is the same as the Healey and it too has push button start). > Fortunately the Prius hood (bonnet) release is mechanical > (everything else is > electronic including door locks and transmission shift, when its > dead you > can't even push it out of the way) and I could access the jump > start post on > the fuse box. After some thought I realized the obvious solution. > Open the > boot of the Healey, pull the choke cable out, and push the start > button on the > Healey (never got in the car). It started right up after months of > storage (a > problem for the Prius). I grabbed jumper cables, connected the > positive ground > car to the modern miracle. The Prius came to life thanks to the simple > technology of the Austin-Healey. > > It is supposed to be 80 degrees F tomorrow, so it is time to drive > some > ancient technology that works largely without too much reliance on > electronic > technology. > > Regards, > Bruce D. Griffin > Summerfield, NC, USA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 10:42:21 2010 From: David Nock To: Alex Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:18:22 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair The SRB111 relay is not the same as the original style $200.00 relay. It is smaller and has push on terminals. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 7, 2010, at 5:42 AM, Alex wrote: > The price I mentioned was from perusing the British Specialists > catalog and > the Moss catalog. Check it out. > > Thanks for the information though! > > == Alex > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pieter and Linda" > To: "Alex" > Cc: > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:47 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D relay repair > > >> Clever fix Alex. $200 for new one?? I am pretty sure the relay is a >> SRB111 and you can get them from www.holden.co.uk for 25pounds and >> even cheaper from Stafford Vehicle Components. Mind you, your repair >> is probably quicker than the post and cheaper as well. >> cheers >> Pieter >> On 07/04/2010, at 4:05 AM, Alex wrote: >> >>> The overdrive on my trusty BT7 decided to act up the other day, >>> dropping the >>> O/D in and out. After a bit of troubleshooting with a voltmeter, I >>> determined that the O/D relay was defective. But---yuk--$200 for a >>> replacement! No way, Jose. >>> >>> I pulled the Lucas relay from the car and opened it up on the bench. >>> This is >>> very easy to do; just peel back the tabs. Sure enough, the contacts >>> were >>> almost totally disintegrated, and the coil was open. >>> >>> So, I drilled out the retaining rivet and discarded the remains >>> of the >>> original innards. I then cleaned up the enclosure and buffed >>> clean the >>> external screw contacts. >>> >>> Next I located a miniature 12V 30A relay (the one I scrounged was >>> from a >>> BMW). These mini automotive relays are quite common. >>> >>> I removed the case from the mini relay, in order to make it smaller. >>> I then >>> lined the innards of the original enclosure with electrical >>> insulating paper >>> (often called fish paper), and installed the new relay inside the >>> original >>> Lucas enclosure, holding it in place with a large locknut-type >>> solder >>> terminal that's affixed to the W2 terminal. >>> >>> The new relay works like a champ, pulling in my solenoid nicely. >>> Back in >>> business for less than $5. >>> >>> == Alex in Maine >>> "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 >>> "Conkling," 1946 MG TC #1321 >>> Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, >>> 1965 MG Midget >>> http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm > > > [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried > to parse but could not find any section which it could render. > Please send plain text.] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 10:42:48 2010 From: "Ed Woods" To: "Greg Lemon" , "Jess Power" Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 11:19:06 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite 5 speed Here's one presently on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/datsun-210-5-speed-transmission-sprite-midget-TESTED_W0QQitemZ280488823727QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item414e6fcbaf Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 10:59:41 2010 From: "PG" To: Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 08:29:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: O/D relay repair I've been toying with removing the relay altogether...... It's purpose to to ensure that the overdrive does not dissengage until the engine rpm is raised to match the lower gear, much like blipping the throttle on a downshift. Not sure if the original intent was to increase comfort for the driver or to protect the overdrive. Regardless, one could consciously blip the throttle when using the overdrive in liew of the relay...I suspect that racers use this method as it would give more control. Any thoughts? Paul _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 13:08:34 2010 From: "edic" To: "Healeys" Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:22:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission removal Healey folks, I am going to remove the transmission in my BJ8 to replace an oil seal, and since this is the first time to remove it with the engine in place I need some advice. Is there a web site that I can go to that covers this operation? One way or the other the transmission is coming out tomorrow, but a few pointers would be helpful and I would really like to do this in the simplest and least time consuming way. Mel Brunet HBJ8L _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 13:10:30 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:37:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] John Chatham Book Think this has been mentioned, but just in case: http://www.veloce.co.uk/shop/products/productDetail.php?prod_id=V4257&prod_group=Reference%20&%20Biography& -- or -- http://tinyurl.com/ygmsu9d bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 13:31:26 2010 From: Richard Gordon To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 11:57:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healey in the Denver Auto Show My BN1 was invited to be in the Denver Auto show. It starts tonight. If your in the area, stop by and say hey... Richard Gordon Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club 1830 South Newport Street Denver, Colorado 80224 Home 303-756-7427 Cell 303-913-1171 HealeyHundred@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 14:41:14 2010 From: Peter Schauss To: edic Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 15:03:20 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission removal I followed the instructions in the shop manual. Here is a quick overview: 0. Drain the oil from the gearbox. 1. From underneath the car, disconnect the back end of the hand brake cable. 2. Remove both front seats, the center console, and anything else in the interior which you think will get in your way. 3. Remove the gearshift knob and boot. 4. Remove the fiberglass gearbox cover. 5. Unhook the drive shaft from the rear of the gearbox. (I cannot remember if I unbolted it from the differential, but you may find that you have to.) 6. Disconnect the rear gearbox mounts. 7. Support the back of the motor with a jack and put another jack under the gearbox. 8. Take off the starter and undo the remaining bolts which hold the gearbox to the motor. Note that two of the bolts are special dowel bolts which insure that the gearbox lines up properly with the flywheel. Note which holes they came out of. 9. Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder and let it hang out of the way. 10. With the two jacks, raise the motor and gearbox a bit. 11. Working inside of the car, pull the gearbox toward the rear untill the first motion shaft clears the splines in the clutch disk. You will have to rotate the gearbox on its fore-aft axis so that the bell housing clears the firewall. 12. Once the gearbox is free, point the first motion shaft toward the passenger's footwell and pull it forward until the rear flange clears the driveshaft tunnel. I am sure that I have left something out since it has been about 9 years since I did this last. HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 1:22 PM, edic wrote: > Healey folks, > > > > I am going to remove the transmission in my BJ8 to replace an oil seal, and > since this is the first time to remove it with the engine in place I need some > advice. Is there a web site that I can go to that covers this operation? One > way or the other the transmission is coming out tomorrow, but a few pointers > would be helpful and I would really like to do this in the simplest and least > time consuming way. > > > > Mel Brunet > > HBJ8L > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 14:59:48 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "PG" , Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 15:24:58 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: O/D relay repair Paul, You are confusing the relay with the throttle switch. The relay has to handle the amp load to kick in the solenoid so the o/d dash switch doesn't have to. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "PG" Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:29 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] FW: O/D relay repair > I've been toying with removing the relay altogether...... It's purpose to > to > ensure that the overdrive does not dissengage until the engine rpm is > raised > to match the lower gear, much like blipping the throttle on a downshift. > > Not sure if the original intent was to increase comfort for the driver or > to > protect the overdrive. > > Regardless, one could consciously blip the throttle when using the > overdrive > in liew of the relay...I suspect that racers use this method as it would > give more control. > > Any thoughts? > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 17:12:40 2010 From: "Alex" To: Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:43:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: O/D relay repair > Paul, I think you're confusing the O/D relay with the kickdown throttle > switch. > > == Alex > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "PG" > To: "'Alex'" ; "'Pieter and Linda'" > Cc: > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:01 AM > Subject: RE: [Healeys] O/D relay repair > > >> I've been toying with removing the relay altogether...... It's purpose to >> to >> ensure that the overdrive does not dissengage until the engine rpm is >> raised >> to match the lower gear, much like blipping the throttle on a downshift. >> >> Not sure if the original intent was to increase comfort for the driver or >> to >> protect the overdrive. >> >> Regardless, one could consciously blip the throttle when using the >> overdrive >> in liew of the relay...I suspect that racers use this method as it would >> give more control. >> >> Any thoughts? >> >> Paul [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 17:15:12 2010 From: Stephen Hutchings To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:45:52 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission removal Everything Peter says is correct, but DON'T forget the two bolts (referred to as "set pins" in the manual) that are under the car.....this is easy to do! Stephen BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 22:18:51 2010 From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 12:38:34 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale G'day This rather nice looking 100 coupe has just come up for sale in Italy:- http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/86882 Its early history is also mentioned on Larry Varley's site at:- http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/specials.html Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 22:19:55 2010 From: "edic" To: "Healeys" Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 22:46:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission removal Healey folks, I would like to thank everyone who responded to my request for info on removing my transmission. The collective wisdom of this list is astounding, and the folks who took their time to respond are greatly appreciated by yours truly. I am going to bed with the feeling that the knowledge I gleaned from this list will keep me in good stead with my Healey project tomorrow. If I should encounter anything peculiar I will get back with the list. Thanks again to, Paul Grehan, Marion Brantley, Richard Kahn, Stephen Hutchings, Peter Schauss , Tom Felts, Roland Wilhelmy, Ed and I hope I didn't forget someone. Mel Brunet BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 01:18:08 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 01:34:56 EDT Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand & Australia Just returned from Australia and their national Austin-Healey rally. One of the best times I've ever had anywhere at any event. All of the people I met or didn't meet were fantastic. These people know how to have fun. If you ever get the chance to visit Australia, let me tell you the Healey Hilton is in full swing down under and if you don't have a good time down there, it's your own fault. Go and enjoy is the only advice I can give. And thanks to this list, I put a call out to New Zealand also and it was answered by the wonderful folks of Dunedin, Ross and Shona Osbourne to be specific. They arranged for a dinner get together with some of the local Austin-Healey folks where we talked for hours, traded stories and had a great time. Ross also arranged for a tour of Martin Dippie's shop where they're rebuilding a 100S and then we retired to Ross's home in the hills outside Dunedin for a wonderful dinner, great conversation and finally to view some DVD's I brought of the Healey's Return to Bonneville. All in all, an amazing time and much of that praise must be placed here with this forum and the people who contribute to it. You're such a rich resource, not just for the technical knowledge, but also for the path-way to find such a caring, wonderful and sharing folk. Don't travel without it! Thanks for the memories, Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 05:29:36 2010 From: john doe To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 03:05:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] rear crank seal For some reason now the rear is leaking like a sive who sells the best one not a project that i want to do twice its for a bj8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 06:13:55 2010 From: HealeyRick To: "healeys@autox.team.net" , PatrickQuinn Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 03:46:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Very nice looking coupe, Patrick. One thing has me puzzled, Looks like the gearchange is located to the right of the driver. Wonder how that linkage was accomplished? Price - POA - probably means "Coupe de Moola" Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Wed, 4/7/10, Quinn, Patrick wrote: From: Quinn, Patrick Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Wednesday, April 7, 2010, 10:38 PM G'day This rather nice looking 100 coupe has just come up for sale in Italy:- http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/86882 Its early history is also mentioned on Larry Varley's site at:- http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/specials.html Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 06:15:06 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: john doe , Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 18:49:04 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear crank seal Why don't you just install a PCV valve, that will stop the leaking and not require pulling the motor. There is no seal back there, just a reverse screw oil scavenger line on the back of the crank. On 4/8/10, john doe wrote: > For some reason now the rear is leaking like a sive who sells the best one > not a project that i want to do twice its for a bj8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 06:29:54 2010 From: Oudesluys To: john doe Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 13:09:03 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear crank seal John, Check your crank case pressure and crankcase ventilation first. You may try fitting a PCV valve (cheap and easy) as your crankcase pressure may be a bit high, thus blowing out oil through the rear crank seal. This was discussed a few weeks ago. Kees Oudesluijs NL john doe wrote: > For some reason now the rear is leaking like a sive who sells the best one not a project that i want to do twice its for a bj8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.801 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2797 - datum van uitgifte: 04/07/10 20:32:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 07:00:04 2010 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: , Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:29:55 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Zealand & Australia G'day Stephen It was wonderful meeting you and regaling you with the stories of drop-bears and marauding kangaroos. Seriously the Australian National Rally was a fantastic celebration of our cars and the chance to meet up with our friends from the US, Ireland, England, Sweden and New Zealand just made it all the better. We managed to add 1800 miles to the odometer of the BN3 and while the car remains in excellent condition I can't say the same about its owners. Best wishes Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD@aol.com Sent: Thursday, 8 April 2010 3:35 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand & Australia Just returned from Australia and their national Austin-Healey rally. One of the best times I've ever had anywhere at any event. All of the people I met or didn't meet were fantastic. These people know how to have fun. If you ever get the chance to visit Australia, let me tell you the Healey Hilton is in full swing down under and if you don't have a good time down there, it's your own fault. Go and enjoy is the only advice I can give. And thanks to this list, I put a call out to New Zealand also and it was answered by the wonderful folks of Dunedin, Ross and Shona Osbourne to be specific. They arranged for a dinner get together with some of the local Austin-Healey folks where we talked for hours, traded stories and had a great time. Ross also arranged for a tour of Martin Dippie's shop where they're rebuilding a 100S and then we retired to Ross's home in the hills outside Dunedin for a wonderful dinner, great conversation and finally to view some DVD's I brought of the Healey's Return to Bonneville. All in all, an amazing time and much of that praise must be placed here with this forum and the people who contribute to it. You're such a rich resource, not just for the technical knowledge, but also for the path-way to find such a caring, wonderful and sharing folk. Don't travel without it! Thanks for the memories, Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 09:47:30 2010 From: "Alex" To: "Mark LaPierre" Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 09:59:10 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hey Alex Hi Mark, Look here for some details and photos, thanks to John Sims and his great web site (sorry about the poor quality of the images. I should have taken more and better photos). http://www.healey6.com/Technical/OD%20Relay%20Repairs.pdf Anyway, as for using your voltmeter, set it to read for -12V. Put the common lead of your meter on the chassis. Put the other lead on terminal C2. Turn on the ignition switch (don't start the motor). Turn on the O/D switch (A on diagram). You should read about -12V on your meter. That shows that the relay coil is energized and the internal relay contacts (at C1 and C2) have closed. Put the gear lever in 3rd or 4th gear. If you move the gear lever into first or second you should hear the big solenoid (F) drop out with a click. I also hear the solenoid click in when I move the gear lever in 3rd and 4th. With the engine off you can hear this distinctly. Now turn off the O/D switch. Keep your foot off the throttle. There should still be -12V on C2. That shows that the kickdown switch is good. It's contacts feed -12V to the relay coil (from C2 to W1), keeping the relay coil energized even though the panel switch (A) is now off. With the relay contacts held closed, -12V is still feeding current to the solenoid too, through the shift switch (E). Now press on the throttle. The -12V at C2 should drop to zero as the kickdown switch opens. The solenoid should drop out with a click (if you're in 3rd or 4th). Hold the throttle down to keep the throttle switch open. Throw the O/D switch on the dash/fascia. You should see -12V. That proves the relay contacts have closed again, being fed via the panel switch (A). Hope that helps. Attached is a schematic. Let me know how you make out. == Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Alex" Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 9:11 PM Subject: Hey Alex > Interesting subject matter. I am having some intermittent OD issues am > an > interested in what you came up with. I did take it apart years ago before > install and cleaned it. > > I am pretty good with a volt ohm meter if you could suggest a few > readings > to take that would be helpful. My solenoid is new, the kick down > switch > is dead on, so that leaves the relay and the OD > lever adjustment. > > Got any pictures or diagrams of your relay creation? > > Mark [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of OD_relay_schematic.jpg] [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 11:19:17 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Alex'" , "'Mark LaPierre'" Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 11:22:23 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hey Alex Site updated this morning with the new information. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:59 AM To: Mark LaPierre Cc: Healeys@Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hey Alex Hi Mark, Look here for some details and photos, thanks to John Sims and his great web site (sorry about the poor quality of the images. I should have taken more and better photos). http://www.healey6.com/Technical/OD%20Relay%20Repairs.pdf Anyway, as for using your voltmeter, set it to read for -12V. Put the common lead of your meter on the chassis. Put the other lead on terminal C2. Turn on the ignition switch (don't start the motor). Turn on the O/D switch (A on diagram). You should read about -12V on your meter. That shows that the relay coil is energized and the internal relay contacts (at C1 and C2) have closed. Put the gear lever in 3rd or 4th gear. If you move the gear lever into first or second you should hear the big solenoid (F) drop out with a click. I also hear the solenoid click in when I move the gear lever in 3rd and 4th. With the engine off you can hear this distinctly. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 11:50:35 2010 From: Robert Blair To: john doe Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 09:16:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear crank seal > From: Robert Blair > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear crank seal > To: "john doe" > Date: Thursday, April 8, 2010, 9:14 AM > JD, There is no 'normal crank seal' > at the rear end of the BJ8 crank. It is a reverse > thread on the crank that 'rewinds to oil' back in when the > crank is rotating. When the crank is stationary, the > thread contents will tend drip out. If you have a > gush, it is more likely the front gearbox oil seal that will > also flow out the bell housing bottom. > > Check things carefully before committing to a crank out > job. > > Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail@yahoo.com > > > > > --- On Thu, 4/8/10, john doe > wrote: > > > From: john doe > > Subject: [Healeys] rear crank seal > > To: Healeys@autox.team.net > > Date: Thursday, April 8, 2010, 3:05 AM > > For some reason now the rear is > > leaking like a sive who sells the best one not a > project > > that i want to do twice its for a bj8 > > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 12:55:35 2010 From: "T+ B Willig" To: , Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 19:02:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Please check also: http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/am iproprietaire32.html here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 gesrshifter layout. Regards Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 13:26:03 2010 From: jerry wall To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 12:41:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] B-J auction results from FL i don't believe anyone mentioned that last fridays top sale of the day was a Tanner BJ8 in golden beige metallic. with commission, it went for $110 k. he had another, the same color, that went for around $75k. hooray for Healeys! -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 13:26:30 2010 From: To: Spridgets , Healeys Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 17:46:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] OT - NO LBC - amusing article Amusing to me, anyway ... Profiling cars http://www.openmindinstitute.com/article.php?Noarticle=36 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 13:27:43 2010 From: "Johnsen, Bernard F (AS)" To: "edic" Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 12:47:59 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission removal Other things to check while transmission is out ... Check clutch for wear. There is a shaft which is above the transmission bell housing and runs side to side in the car, that is part of the accelerator pedal linkage. It has a bushing at each end. Check them for wear and replace if needed. - Bernie Johnsen, 1967 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 13:47:07 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 13:59:47 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Healey Hilton Down Under In a message dated 4/8/10 10:52:03 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > > G'day Stephen > > It was wonderful meeting you and regaling you with the stories of > drop-bears > and marauding kangaroos. > > Seriously the Australian National Rally was a fantastic celebration of our > cars and the chance to meet up with our friends from the US, Ireland, > England, Sweden and New Zealand just made it all the better. > > We managed to add 1800 miles to the odometer of the BN3 and while the car > remains in excellent condition I can't say the same about its owners. > > Best wishes > > Patrick & Caroline Quinn > Sydney, Australia > Nice to know that the Healey Hilton is still open and in operation more than 20 years after many of the same folks from Oz and those islands off their coast introduced Genie and me to much of what makes the Healey hobby special. Gary Anderson _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 15:50:55 2010 From: Tom Felts To: jerry wall , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 16:02:28 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] B-J auction results from FL All well and good, but just another money pawn or museum piece. Tom ---- jerry wall wrote: ============= i don't believe anyone mentioned that last fridays top sale of the day was a Tanner BJ8 in golden beige metallic. with commission, it went for $110 k. he had another, the same color, that went for around $75k. hooray for Healeys! -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 18:18:03 2010 From: To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 18:21:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] O/D Relay switch Hey Paul, Let me start a blizzard of input for you. I think of a Healey transmission as a six speed transmission. I dis-able the the relay so I can control the transmission through the top two gears with the clutch, the overdrive switch and the accelerator. Most people think I am nuts for using the equipment as it was not intended. But, I've never blown a transmission or an overdrive in 40 years of owning a Healey and I think I have a lot more fun in the process. Perhaps it is a question of how one is driving their Healey. If one is driving the twisties (i.e. the Tail of the Dragon at speed) or the boulevards at a leisurely pace of 2500-3000 rpm, then the set-up might make a difference. Incidentally, I am a clutch man. I am a firm believer of using the two overdrive gears just as if they are two additional gears in the gearbox. I engage the overdrive with the clutch and the switch, simultaneously matching the engine RPM's to the speed of the car, the engaging and dis-engaging of the overdrive always between 2000 and 2200 RPM's. I suggest you try removing the relay from the equation. If you don't like it', you can always return to the original set-up. Joe _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 19:18:15 2010 From: "Mike Slechta" To: , Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 18:44:46 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D Relay switch Joe, What you are saying is essentially true. I agree with you about using the O/D function as often as practical (meaning not at too low RPM). I feel that using the O/D function frequently keeps parts from "freezing" due to lack of use. I don't have as many years of Healeying under my belt (seat?) as you, but I do have what I consider lots of miles on her & have never had an O/D problem, including relays. On another related note, I read somewhere, possibly "Healey Marque" about being able to eliminate or remove something, possibly a switch, and you could us the O/D function in all 4 gears. This did not appeal to me & it was quite sometime ago, so I don't remember the details. One more related note; In my opinion, there is not any section of "The Tail" long enough to use the O/D function. Cheers, Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: jwj-scj@cox.net To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 5:21 PM Subject: [Healeys] O/D Relay switch Hey Paul, Let me start a blizzard of input for you. I think of a Healey transmission as a six speed transmission. I dis-able the the relay so I can control the transmission through the top two gears with the clutch, the overdrive switch and the accelerator. Most people think I am nuts for using the equipment as it was not intended. But, I've never blown a transmission or an overdrive in 40 years of owning a Healey and I think I have a lot more fun in the process. Perhaps it is a question of how one is driving their Healey. If one is driving the twisties (i.e. the Tail of the Dragon at speed) or the boulevards at a leisurely pace of 2500-3000 rpm, then the set-up might make a difference. Incidentally, I am a clutch man. I am a firm believer of using the two overdrive gears just as if they are two additional gears in the gearbox. I engage the overdrive with the clutch and the switch, simultaneously matching the engine RPM's to the speed of the car, the engaging and dis-engaging of the overdrive always between 2000 and 2200 RPM's. I suggest you try removing the relay from the equation. If you don't like it', you can always return to the original set-up. Joe _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta@chartermi.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 19:47:15 2010 From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: "'T+ B Willig'" , "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:57:09 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale G'day A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the seller. A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- Sitting Down? Euros 270,000 Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 My friend will no be taking it further. Amazing Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ________________________________ From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig@wtnet.de] Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 3:02 AM To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Please check also: http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/ami proprietaire32.html here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 gesrshifter layout. Regards Thomas Willig ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 20:19:07 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com To: Editorgary@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:27:29 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Healey Hilton Down Under Nice to know that the Healey Hilton is still open and in operation more than 20 years after many of the same folks from Oz and those islands off their coast introduced Genie and me to much of what makes the Healey hobby special. Gary Anderson I totally concur ... it's not just the cars, but the people behind them that really bring this hobby alive. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/m ailman/options/healeys/atightprod@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 20:48:20 2010 From: "edic" To: "Healeys" Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:05:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Transmission removal I sent this last night but I guess it did not go. I pulled the transmission today and replace front and rear seals in the transmission. The front was in terrible shape and and responsible for the huge puddle under my car. The cars back together and the oil leak is not a problem anymore. Thanks for everyones help. Mel ----- Original Message ----- From: edic To: Healeys Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:46 PM Subject: Transmission removal Healey folks, I would like to thank everyone who responded to my request for info on removing my transmission. The collective wisdom of this list is astounding, and the folks who took their time to respond are greatly appreciated by yours truly. I am going to bed with the feeling that the knowledge I gleaned from this list will keep me in good stead with my Healey project tomorrow. If I should encounter anything peculiar I will get back with the list. Thanks again to, Paul Grehan, Marion Brantley, Richard Kahn, Stephen Hutchings, Peter Schauss , Tom Felts, Roland Wilhelmy, Ed and I hope I didn't forget someone. Mel Brunet BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 20:48:49 2010 From: "edic" To: "Healeys" Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:13:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] transmission removal I'm going to try for the third time. It seems like it was easier to remove my transmission, replace the seals and put it all back together than to send this email to the Healey list. My third attempt. Mel I sent this last night but I guess it did not go. I pulled the transmission today and replace front and rear seals in the transmission. The front was in terrible shape and and responsible for the huge puddle under my car. The cars back together and the oil leak is not a problem anymore. Thanks for everyones help. Mel ----- Original Message ----- From: edic To: Healeys Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:46 PM Subject: Transmission removal Healey folks, I would like to thank everyone who responded to my request for info on removing my transmission. The collective wisdom of this list is astounding, and the folks who took their time to respond are greatly appreciated by yours truly. I am going to bed with the feeling that the knowledge I gleaned from this list will keep me in good stead with my Healey project tomorrow. If I should encounter anything peculiar I will get back with the list. Thanks again to, Paul Grehan, Marion Brantley, Richard Kahn, Stephen Hutchings, Peter Schauss , Tom Felts, Roland Wilhelmy, Ed and I hope I didn't forget someone. Mel Brunet BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 20:49:07 2010 From: "edic" To: "Healeys" Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:15:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 2nd test Test #2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 20:49:49 2010 From: "edic" To: "Healeys" Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:20:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] test Test #3 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 21:49:54 2010 From: john spaur To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 18:52:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and rear shroud at the boot lip? Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? Thank you, John '62BT7 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 21:51:38 2010 From: S and T Miller To: Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 21:53:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off every month or so. Just curious. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 21:51:59 2010 From: HealeyRick To: 'T+ B Willig' , "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 18:57:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Makes those $100k Kurt Tanner restos look like a bargain. I'm still perplexed by the gearchange. It certainly looks like that's the gear lever to the right of the driver. The emergency brake lever is visible next to the center tunnel but no gear lever there. Can't understand why someone would want the gear lever in front of the door opening and moreover how a linkage could be fitted to make the Healey tranny work with such a setup. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Thu, 4/8/10, Quinn, Patrick wrote: From: Quinn, Patrick Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale To: "'T+ B Willig'" , "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Thursday, April 8, 2010, 7:57 PM G'day A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the seller. A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- Sitting Down? Euros 270,000 Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 My friend will no be taking it further. Amazing Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ________________________________ From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig@wtnet.de] Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 3:02 AM To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Please check also: http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/ami proprietaire32.html here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 gesrshifter layout. Regards Thomas Willig ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 21:52:20 2010 From: MBran89793@aol.com To: edic@tampabay.rr.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 22:00:38 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] transmission removal "Got 'er done" OK. Great job. In a message dated 4/8/2010 9:49:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, edic@tampabay.rr.com writes: I'm going to try for the third time. It seems like it was easier to remove my transmission, replace the seals and put it all back together than to send this email to the Healey list. My third attempt. Mel I sent this last night but I guess it did not go. I pulled the transmission today and replace front and rear seals in the transmission. The front was in terrible shape and and responsible for the huge puddle under my car. The cars back together and the oil leak is not a problem anymore. Thanks for everyones help. Mel ----- Original Message ----- From: edic To: Healeys Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:46 PM Subject: Transmission removal Healey folks, I would like to thank everyone who responded to my request for info on removing my transmission. The collective wisdom of this list is as tounding, and the folks who took their time to respond are greatly appreciated by yours truly. I am going to bed with the feeling that the knowledge I gleaned from this list will keep me in good stead with my Healey project tomorrow. If I should encounter anything peculiar I will get back with the list. Thanks again to, Paul Grehan, Marion Brantley, Richard Kahn, Stephen Hutchings, Peter Schauss , Tom Felts, Roland Wilhelmy, Ed and I hope I didn't forget someone. Mel Brunet BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 21:56:16 2010 From: Charlie Baldwin To: healey list Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 22:19:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? Check out Ebay listing 230459233429. This is a relisting. I think that it didn't sell the first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. I asked him to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey conversion. Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. Charlie [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 21:23:14 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: "Quinn, Patrick" , "T+ B Willig" Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:26:42 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale What's more scary is the AUD price and USD price is almost the same amount! On 4/9/10, Quinn, Patrick wrote: > G'day > > A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the seller. > > A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- > > Sitting Down? > > Euros 270,000 > > Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 > > My friend will no be taking it further. > > Amazing > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > ________________________________ > From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig@wtnet.de] > Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 3:02 AM > To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > > > Please check also: > > http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/ami > proprietaire32.html > > here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 gesrshifter > layout. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > > > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 21:23:54 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 21:41:31 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale << My friend will no be taking it further. Amazing >> er Patrick, do you mean price of car or your mate NOT going onwards ?!? Enquiring minds and all that !!!! -:)-:)-:) Anon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 21:24:10 2010 From: Mark J Bradakis To: Healeys Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:48:37 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] transmission removal edic wrote: > I'm going to try for the third time. It seems like it was easier to remove my > transmission, replace the seals and put it all back together than to send this > email to the Healey list. My third attempt. > > Mel > So why did you ignore the first attempt that made it to the list?? http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/healeys/2010-04/msg00141.html mjb. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 21:46:32 2010 From: Tom Felts To: S and T Miller , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 22:13:51 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio I have one but never use it so don't know about how it keeps time. ---- S and T Miller wrote: ============= Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off every month or so. Just curious. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 21:46:49 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: john spaur Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:18:39 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail John, Those are honest-to-god rivets. There are pneumatic guns--similar to pneumatic chisels--or large squeezers to set these (you also need a bucking bar to use the gun). Both would cost a Benjamin or two, although you might be able to rent or borrow them somewhere. Most A&P (airframe and powerplant) mechanic or experiemental airplane builder would probably have one or the other. bs john spaur wrote: > How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and > rear shroud at the boot lip? > > Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? > > Thank you, > John > '62BT7 > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 21:47:09 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: S and T Miller Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:20:11 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio I have one--believe it's a repo of the original toy--and the clock and radio work fine, but the buttons to set the time and alarm have all but ceased to function. bs S and T Miller wrote: > Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. > We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off > every month or so. Just curious. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 22:16:37 2010 From: Roland Wilhelmy To: Mark J Bradakis Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:32:41 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] transmission removal Maybe his ISP filters out his own postings from his received email? On Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:48:37 -0600, you wrote: ::edic wrote: ::> I'm going to try for the third time. It seems like it was easier to remove my ::> transmission, replace the seals and put it all back together than to send this ::> email to the Healey list. My third attempt. ::> ::> Mel ::> :: ::So why did you ignore the first attempt that made it to the list?? :: ::http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/healeys/2010-04/msg00141.html :: :: :: ::mjb. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 22:17:02 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: john spaur Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:38:44 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail John, You'll have to make one. One of the best ways I've seen this done is what Roger Moment came up with. He took an inexpensive Harbor Freight impact hammer and then took one of the tips and machined it to accept the flat, round head of the original style rivet. He then made/modified a heavy curved dolly (comma shaped) so that it fit under the the hoop in the rear shroud to flatten the back side of the rivet. I'll see if I can get pictures of his setup since I want to make a similar one for my Healey project. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 6:52 PM, john spaur wrote: > How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and rear > shroud at the boot lip? > > Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? > > Thank you, > John > '62BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 22:17:22 2010 From: "Earl Kagna" To: "S and T Miller" , "Healey List" Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:42:37 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Millers: I use mine - seems to keep good time and doesn't leak oil. Maybe you got one with a Lucas clock movement. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "S and T Miller" To: Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 6:53 PM Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off every month or so. Just curious. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 22:17:51 2010 From: "John Rowe" To: Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 13:47:44 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Rowe" To: "Quinn, Patrick" Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 11:01 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > Patrick- you must have some cheapskate friends- sounds like a real bargain > to me, but I will be taking no action either -does that make me a > cheapskate also? > > Pleased to meet you at last at the rally and have a chat. We had a good > time, and a good trip home at leisurely pace. Trust you did also > > Cheers > John > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Quinn, Patrick" > To: "'T+ B Willig'" ; > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:57 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > > >> G'day >> >> A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the >> seller. >> >> A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- >> >> Sitting Down? >> >> Euros 270,000 >> >> Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 >> >> My friend will no be taking it further. >> >> Amazing >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Sydney, Australia >> >> ________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 22:48:36 2010 From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: "'Shop at \" Just Brits \"'" , Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 14:02:01 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale No he will not negotiate further as he is of the opinion that it is far too pricey. Says I as I tuck into my Mongolian Lamb Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 12:42 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale << My friend will no be taking it further. Amazing >> er Patrick, do you mean price of car or your mate NOT going onwards ?!? Enquiring minds and all that !!!! -:)-:)-:) Anon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/patrick.quinn@det.nsw.edu.au ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 03:00:22 2010 From: To: , Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:10:44 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a constant 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the frequency slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could not keep the time anymore. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von S and T Miller Gesendet: Freitag, 9. April 2010 03:54 An: healeys@autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off every month or so. Just curious. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 05:14:55 2010 From: Ron Mitchell To: S and T Miller , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 03:57:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio I have had my Barbie Healey Clock Radio since they were first introduced. Has kept perfect time since than. I only reset it twice a year for Daylight Savings Time. The Radio is another issue. Probably the worst Clock Radio I have ever owned. Enjoy the day Ron ________________________________ From: S and T Miller To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Thu, April 8, 2010 9:53:58 PM Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes off every month or so. Just curious. The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 06:12:36 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: john spaur Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 04:54:18 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail Gentlemen, I'll see about getting everyone pictures. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 11:26 PM, john spaur wrote: > Curt, > > The eight ball was pointing in that direction; you have sealed it by > providing valuable information! > > Pictures would help if easily obtainable; if not, I can handle it. > > Thank you, > John > > > At 08:38 PM 4/8/2010 -0700, you wrote: > >> John, >> >> You'll have to make one. >> >> One of the best ways.... >> I'll see if I can get pictures of his setup since I want to make a similar >> one for my Healey project. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 07:40:12 2010 From: To: Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 15:20:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail John, The easiest way is to use pop rivets and fill the holes with some kind of liquid metal (aluminium) and polish the heads before painting. When its properly done they look like solid rivets. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Curt/Nancy Arndt Gesendet: Freitag, 9. April 2010 05:39 An: john spaur Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail John, You'll have to make one. One of the best ways I've seen this done is what Roger Moment came up with. He took an inexpensive Harbor Freight impact hammer and then took one of the tips and machined it to accept the flat, round head of the original style rivet. He then made/modified a heavy curved dolly (comma shaped) so that it fit under the the hoop in the rear shroud to flatten the back side of the rivet. I'll see if I can get pictures of his setup since I want to make a similar one for my Healey project. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 6:52 PM, john spaur wrote: > How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and > rear shroud at the boot lip? > > Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? > > Thank you, > John > '62BT7 > _________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 07:58:14 2010 From: "Tracy Drummond" To: "'Charlie Baldwin'" , "'healey list'" Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 06:27:55 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Looks like the proper tranny. Be sure to get all the rear mounts as shown in the photo. Also be sure to get the leaver arm and special fulcrum bolt from in the bell housing if he removes it. All you will need after that is a new rear seal and some clean-up. It looks like the rear or middle shifter location. If the position falls too far back one would want the conversion parts from Toyota to move it the extra two inches forward. This put is closer to where the BJ8 needs the shifter to come up through the center console. Warm Regards, Tracy On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:20 PM To: healey list Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? Check out Ebay listing 230459233429. This is a relisting. I think that it didn't sell the first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. I asked him to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey conversion. Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. Charlie [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 07:58:39 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 06:28:37 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Off topic, but .... I've never heard of the power frequency (60Hz) 'sliding' off, at least not here in the States. The voltage can drop from an overload--i.e. a 'brownout'--but the only thing that could change the frequency is generator speed changing. Since all the power producers--hydro, wind, gas, coal, nuke--are tied together in a grid they are precisely synchronized. Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency change would have little to no effect. Most modern electronics have switching power supplies--they rectify the AC to DC then smooth the DC with capacitors and step it down--converting back to AC or pulsed DC then back to DC--as required (+/- 3V, 5V, 12V, etc.). bs Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote: > The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a constant > 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the frequency > slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could not > keep the time anymore. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 08:27:10 2010 From: "Johnsen, Bernard F (AS)" To: "Bob Spidell" Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:12:59 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency change would have little to no effect. Not necessarily true. It depends on the design of the clock. Older digital clocks did in fact count cycles from the power source, and use divide by 60 and divide by 10 circuits to derive their timing. Later designs used a crystal oscillator as a timing source, as you alluded to. - Bernie Johnsen 1967 BJ8, 1977 Digital Clock (although its not a Barbie one) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 08:41:32 2010 From: "Mike Slechta" To: "Bob Spidell" , Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:16:05 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio All this chatter about the "Austin Healey Barbie Clock". Is this something new or old? What does it look like? Where do I get one? Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Spidell To: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com Cc: healeys@autox.team.net ; stmiller96@hotmail.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 8:28 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Off topic, but .... I've never heard of the power frequency (60Hz) 'sliding' off, at least not here in the States. The voltage can drop from an overload--i.e. a 'brownout'--but the only thing that could change the frequency is generator speed changing. Since all the power producers--hydro, wind, gas, coal, nuke--are tied together in a grid they are precisely synchronized. Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency change would have little to no effect. Most modern electronics have switching power supplies--they rectify the AC to DC then smooth the DC with capacitors and step it down--converting back to AC or pulsed DC then back to DC--as required (+/- 3V, 5V, 12V, etc.). bs Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote: > The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a constant > 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the frequency > slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could not > keep the time anymore. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta@chartermi.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 08:42:07 2010 From: raymead@comcast.net To: Charlie Baldwin Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 14:21:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed not that this means anything........... but i just put one of these in my '53 Sunbeam Alpine......... great transmission - made a lot of difference...........B i rarely ever get it into 5th great............... ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie Baldwin" To: "healey list" Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2010 10:19:37 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? B Check out Ebay listing 230459233429. B This is a relisting. B I think that it didn't sell the first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. B I asked him to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey conversion. B Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. Charlie [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/raymead@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 08:42:54 2010 From: Jack Feldman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:23:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Barbie Clock Radio Bet you aren't in the US. Electric clocks generally (probably always, but I'm not sure), use the frequency of the electric current as the timing method. The clock radios were made for the US market so they work with 60 cycle current. I'll bet you are in a country that uses 50 cycle. Jack _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 08:56:52 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: "Johnsen, Bernard F (AS)" Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 07:41:48 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Thanks. I stand corrected. bs Johnsen, Bernard F (AS) wrote: > > Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an > electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC > for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency > change would have little to no effect. > > > Not necessarily true. It depends on the design of the clock. Older > digital clocks did in fact count cycles from the power source, and use > divide by 60 and divide by 10 circuits to derive their timing. Later > designs used a crystal oscillator as a timing source, as you alluded to. > > - Bernie Johnsen 1967 BJ8, 1977 Digital Clock (although its not a Barbie > one) > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 09:19:30 2010 From: To: Healeys Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 14:51:44 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio I think that this is what they're talking about: http://www.team.net/www/healey/autobila/barbie.html RD > From: mslechta@chartermi.net > To: bspidell@comcast.net; Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com > Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:16:05 -0500 > CC: stmiller96@hotmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio > > All this chatter about the "Austin Healey Barbie Clock". Is this something > new or old? What does it look like? Where do I get one? > Mad Mike > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net ; stmiller96@hotmail.com > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 8:28 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio > > > Off topic, but .... I've never heard of the power frequency (60Hz) > 'sliding' off, at least not here in the States. The voltage can drop > from an overload--i.e. a 'brownout'--but the only thing that could > change the frequency is generator speed changing. Since all the power > producers--hydro, wind, gas, coal, nuke--are tied together in a grid > they are precisely synchronized. > > Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an > electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC > for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency > change would have little to no effect. Most modern electronics have > switching power supplies--they rectify the AC to DC then smooth the DC > with capacitors and step it down--converting back to AC or pulsed DC > then back to DC--as required (+/- 3V, 5V, 12V, etc.). > > bs > > > > > Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote: > > The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a > constant > > 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the > frequency > > slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could > not > > keep the time anymore. > > > > Josef Eckert > > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta@chartermi.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette@sympatico.ca _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 09:21:10 2010 From: "Jerry Costanzo" To: "'healey list'" Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 07:53:02 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed I have two of these Toyota conversions. I bought the conversion to move the shifter as far forward as possible for both. The transmissions are different years and one of them has more tension with that forward position. (harder to shift). It has worked itself in a little but stiffer. If you are putting it into a 3000 or BJ8, you need to hit the hole in the tunnel. Use the forward shift position. If it is going in a side shift, you can put the hole anywhere, so don't worry about it so much. Both my transmissions are out of Supras. Tracy's helpful hints should be read a few times before starting this project. It is simple, but there are always questions once you get started. I think his stuff is on John Sims website. Jerry -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tracy Drummond" Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 6:27 AM To: "'Charlie Baldwin'" ; "'healey list'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed > Looks like the proper tranny. Be sure to get all the rear mounts as shown > in the photo. Also be sure to get the leaver arm and special fulcrum bolt > from in the bell housing if he removes it. All you will need after that > is > a new rear seal and some clean-up. It looks like the rear or middle > shifter > location. If the position falls too far back one would want the conversion > parts from Toyota to move it the extra two inches forward. This put is > closer to where the BJ8 needs the shifter to come up through the center > console. > > Warm Regards, > > Tracy > > On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin > Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:20 PM > To: healey list > Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed > > Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? Check out Ebay listing > 230459233429. This is a relisting. I think that it didn't sell the > first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. I asked him > to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey > conversion. Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to > compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. > Charlie > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > of > mgcharlie.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 09:21:23 2010 From: robert westcott <55healey@comcast.net> To: Healey List Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 07:53:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail I just used the buck on the outside and a small ball peen hammer on the inside, aluminum rivets are soft and easy to peen. Rob >> >>> John, >>> >>> You'll have to make one. >>> >>> One of the best ways.... >>> I'll see if I can get pictures of his setup since I want to make a >>> similar >>> one for my Healey project. > ____________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 09:47:06 2010 From: "dwflagg@juno.com" To: bspidell@comcast.net Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 15:12:54 GMT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio You can also sit corrected.................... :) Thanks. I stand corrected. bs Johnsen, Bernard F (AS) wrote: > > Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an > electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC > for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency > change would have little to no effect. > > > Not necessarily true. It depends on the design of the clock. Older > digital clocks did in fact count cycles from the power source, and use > divide by 60 and divide by 10 circuits to derive their timing. Later > designs used a crystal oscillator as a timing source, as you alluded to. > > - Bernie Johnsen 1967 BJ8, 1977 Digital Clock (although its not a Barbie > one) > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg@juno.com ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bbf444c3e4e31a1c21st01duc _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 10:11:14 2010 From: "Peter Svilans" To: Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 11:25:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale < Can't understand why someone would want the gear lever in front of the door opening and moreover how a linkage could be fitted to make the Healey tranny work with such a setup. > The right-hand gearshift (on a right hand drive car ) was traditionally considered to be a luxury feature found only on high-end cars which were at first mostly chauffeur-driven. Chauffeurs were expected to put up with more inconveniences like no roofs and clambering over the shift lever, in favour of more driving control from the right arm. Rolls-Royce and Daimler had it, and upscale BMC cars such as the Wolseley 6-90 Series II (with C-series engine) , Riley Pathfinder, and Morris Isis (also with C-series engine) had a right-hand floor shift. I'm curious too to see how the linkage adapted to the Healey transmission. The Coupe appears to have it routed under the tranny. Rolls had the RH shift lever mounted on the frame rail with a straight transverse rod connecting it to the tranny similar to the lengthways shift extension on a BMC Mini Cooper. Have to locate a Morris Isis parts book and find out. Best Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 10:11:44 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Healey Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:26:47 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Alan Seigrist Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:25:18 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio To: S and T Miller Seems the lot of you have gone a bit light in the loafers, playing with your Barbie dolls. Perhaps I shall sell the Healeys and join the Isetta list - it currently appears to be a place for men with more hair on their chests... ;) On 4/9/10, S and T Miller wrote: > Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. > We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes > off > every month or so. Just curious. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 10:11:56 2010 From: I Erbs To: HealeyRick Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 08:28:01 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Could be a static display show car I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Apr 8, 2010, at 6:57 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Makes those $100k Kurt Tanner restos look like a bargain. I'm still > perplexed > by the gearchange. It certainly looks like that's the gear lever to > the right > of the driver. The emergency brake lever is visible next to the > center tunnel > but no gear lever there. Can't understand why someone would want > the gear > lever in front of the door opening and moreover how a linkage could > be fitted > to make the Healey tranny work with such a setup. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Thu, 4/8/10, Quinn, Patrick > wrote: > > From: Quinn, Patrick > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > To: "'T+ B Willig'" , "healeys@autox.team.net" > > Date: Thursday, April 8, 2010, 7:57 PM > > G'day > > A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the > seller. > > A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- > > Sitting Down? > > Euros 270,000 > > Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 > > My friend will no be taking it further. > > Amazing > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > ________________________________ > From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig@wtnet.de] > Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 3:02 AM > To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > > > Please check also: > > http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/ami > proprietaire32.html > > here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 > gesrshifter > layout. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig > > > ********************************************************************** > This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain > privileged information or confidential information or both. If you > are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 10:12:13 2010 From: warthodson@aol.com To: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com, Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 11:30:44 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail Another way that I have seen done is to use a die to cut threads onto the shaft of the rivet. Then an appropriate nut is threaded onto the shaft after the rivet is installed. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com To: Healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Apr 9, 2010 8:20 am Subject: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail John, he easiest way is to use pop rivets and fill the holes with some kind of iquid metal (aluminium) and polish the heads before painting. When its roperly done they look like solid rivets. Josef Eckert onigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- on: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im uftrag von Curt/Nancy Arndt esendet: Freitag, 9. April 2010 05:39 n: john spaur c: healeys@autox.team.net etreff: Re: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail John, You'll have to make one. One of the best ways I've seen this done is what Roger Moment came up with. e took an inexpensive Harbor Freight impact hammer and then took one of the ips and machined it to accept the flat, round head of the original style ivet. He then made/modified a heavy curved dolly (comma shaped) so that it it under the the hoop in the rear shroud to flatten the back side of the ivet. I'll see if I can get pictures of his setup since I want to make a similar one or my Healey project. Cheers, Curt On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 6:52 PM, john spaur wrote: > How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and rear shroud at the boot lip? Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? Thank you, John '62BT7 _________ ______________________________________________ ealeys@autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 10:41:08 2010 From: Richard Kahn To: , Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:16:39 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Like Erkel (sp) from the TV sitcom? Rich Kahn > Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:26:47 +0800 > From: healey.nut@gmail.com > To: Healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Alan Seigrist > Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:25:18 +0800 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio > To: S and T Miller > > Seems the lot of you have gone a bit light in the loafers, playing > with your Barbie dolls. Perhaps I shall sell the Healeys and join the > Isetta list - it currently appears to be a place for men with more > hair on their chests... > > ;) > > On 4/9/10, S and T Miller wrote: > > Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. > > We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 minutes > > off > > every month or so. Just curious. > > > > The Millers > > "British Car Nuts" > > > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > > drive." > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > > > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 10:57:24 2010 From: To: Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 18:30:12 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Alan, it is much easier to drive a Healey than an Isetta. In a BMW Isetta you feel the hill as it slows down the speed of the car before you really see it and you need to think very much in advance to keep your speed. And you may detect any hole in the road, as all four wheels are on a different track. So the Isetta is a real drivers car, as you need to use your brain when driving it. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Alan Seigrist Gesendet: Freitag, 9. April 2010 17:27 An: Healey Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Alan Seigrist Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:25:18 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio To: S and T Miller Seems the lot of you have gone a bit light in the loafers, playing with your Barbie dolls. Perhaps I shall sell the Healeys and join the Isetta list - it currently appears to be a place for men with more hair on their chests... ;) On 4/9/10, S and T Miller wrote: > Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. > We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 > minutes off every month or so. Just curious. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a > test drive." _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 11:25:25 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Jerry Costanzo'" , "'healey list'" Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 13:01:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Look at: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Werner/Smitty.pdf John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 10:53 AM To: 'healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed I have two of these Toyota conversions. I bought the conversion to move the shifter as far forward as possible for both. The transmissions are different years and one of them has more tension with that forward position. (harder to shift). It has worked itself in a little but stiffer. If you are putting it into a 3000 or BJ8, you need to hit the hole in the tunnel. Use the forward shift position. If it is going in a side shift, you can put the hole anywhere, so don't worry about it so much. Both my transmissions are out of Supras. Tracy's helpful hints should be read a few times before starting this project. It is simple, but there are always questions once you get started. I think his stuff is on John Sims website. Jerry _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 17:42:58 2010 From: "Mr. Finespanner" To: Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 19:12:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail John, Pegasus sells the squeezer for setting solid rivets. They ain't cheap--about $185 for the tool and dies. regards, Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks >Message: 15 >Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 18:52:40 -0700 >From: john spaur >Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail >To: healeys@autox.team.net >Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408185102.01fcbc88@pop.att.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and >rear shroud at the boot lip? >Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? >Thank you, >John >'62BT7 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 17:59:30 2010 From: HealeyRick To: healeys@autox.team.net, Peter Svilans Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 16:38:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Peter, Thanks for the info. I located an Isis picture which looks to have the same gear lever: http://www.philseed.com/mo-six.html Still would love to see the linkage. As I reply when asked why I have a belt buckle shaped like a steering wheel: "It's been driving me nuts!" (No charge for the Friday Funny Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 4/9/10, Peter Svilans wrote: From: Peter Svilans Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 9, 2010, 11:25 AM I'm curious too to see how the linkage adapted to the Healey transmission. The Coupe appears to have it routed under the tranny. Rolls had the RH shift lever mounted on the frame rail with a straight transverse rod connecting it to the tranny similar to the lengthways shift extension on a BMC Mini Cooper. Have to locate a Morris Isis parts book and find out. Best Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 18:44:51 2010 From: "PG" To: Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 17:21:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heater Hoses I've got a leaking heater hose....rats! Can the hoses be changed without removing the dashboard on a late model BJ8? Thanks Paul _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 18:59:08 2010 From: Charlie Baldwin To: Tracy Drummond , healey list Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 20:41:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Tracy, Most or all of that stuff is available from Pete Delaney who now sells the Smitty conversion kit. Some is available aftermarket like the rear mount. It would make sense, though, to save the $$ and get all you can with the transmission. Another item would be the rubber boot on the clutch arm to make sure is included. So far no one in the area has bought this, which to me seems a good deal. Any center shift car would require the forward mount. Charlie Tracy Drummond wrote: > Looks like the proper tranny. Be sure to get all the rear mounts as shown > in the photo. Also be sure to get the leaver arm and special fulcrum bolt > from in the bell housing if he removes it. All you will need after that is > a new rear seal and some clean-up. It looks like the rear or middle shifter > location. If the position falls too far back one would want the conversion > parts from Toyota to move it the extra two inches forward. This put is > closer to where the BJ8 needs the shifter to come up through the center > console. > > Warm Regards, > > Tracy > > On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin > Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:20 PM > To: healey list > Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed > > Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? Check out Ebay listing > 230459233429. This is a relisting. I think that it didn't sell the > first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. I asked him > to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey > conversion. Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to > compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. > Charlie > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of > mgcharlie.vcf] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 19:14:11 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'PG'" , "'healeylist'" Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 18:55:03 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater Hoses Yes, but you will have to dismount the heater from the firewall to do it in the shortest amount of time. dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 6:21 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Heater Hoses I've got a leaking heater hose....rats! Can the hoses be changed without removing the dashboard on a late model BJ8? Thanks Paul _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 19:33:47 2010 From: john spaur To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 18:07:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Major Milestone The Healey is back from the body shop and completely painted! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 20:00:22 2010 From: Don Hardie To: Charlie Baldwin , Tracy Drummond Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 18:34:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed If you have trouble getting a forward shift mount a company in OZ does one. http://www.rodshop.com.au/trans_accessories/manual.htm Don BN 1 OZ To: Tracy Drummond ; healey list Sent: Sat, 10 April, 2010 10:41:24 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Tracy, Most or all of that stuff is available from Pete Delaney who now sells the Smitty conversion kit. Some is available aftermarket like the rear mount. It would make sense, though, to save the $$ and get all you can with the transmission. Another item would be the rubber boot on the clutch arm to make sure is included. So far no one in the area has bought this, which to me seems a good deal. Any center shift car would require the forward mount. Charlie Tracy Drummond wrote: > Looks like the proper tranny. Be sure to get all the rear mounts as shown > in the photo. Also be sure to get the leaver arm and special fulcrum bolt > from in the bell housing if he removes it. All you will need after that is > a new rear seal and some clean-up. It looks like the rear or middle shifter > location. If the position falls too far back one would want the conversion > parts from Toyota to move it the extra two inches forward. This put is > closer to where the BJ8 needs the shifter to come up through the center > console. > > Warm Regards, > > Tracy > > On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin > Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:20 PM > To: healey list > Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed > > Any big Healey listers near Marion, OH? Check out Ebay listing > 230459233429. This is a relisting. I think that it didn't sell the > first time because the owner did not have a picture of it. I asked him > to post one and it looks like the correct one for a big Healey > conversion. Anyone who wants a picture of mine along with this one to > compare, let me know and I'll email it to you. > Charlie > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of > mgcharlie.vcf] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeynut@yahoo.com.au _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 20:15:59 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: PG , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:36:11 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater Hoses Paul - it's a bit tight but not as difficult as you may think. Remove the centre console, remove the cable connections, then remove the six panhead screws (or is it eight, can't recall) holding the box to the firewall. It will come straight down. I bet it's the heater valve, not your hose. They go bad all the time. Helps to drain some water out of the radiator first. Alan On 4/10/10, PG wrote: > I've got a leaking heater hose....rats! > > > > Can the hoses be changed without removing the dashboard on a late model BJ8? > > > > Thanks > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 20:57:09 2010 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: Finespanner , john spaur Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 02:24:53 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail I've been looking for a squeezer or a set of snaps for some riveting I need to do on a series I Land Rover, so I've had an opportunity to study the problem a little bit. The problem with a squeezer in the case of the shroud to boot surround rivets on a Healey is that the ends of the rivets are within a sheet metal "C" section that is difficult or impossible for any standard shape of squeezer (like a pair of pliers) to access. The shroud to boot floor rivets are a little easier to access. In the case of the tougher ones I think a set of snaps makes more sense. That is a set of punches with reliefs of the shapes of the rivet heads machined in. The idea is to drive the rivet head using one snap and to buck it with the other. If the recesses are the correct shape and the rivets are the right length they should form a perfectly shaped head on both ends. Well, we can always dream... In a case where access is tough you can use a bucking bar with the head shape machined in several places so that one is likely to allow access. Using a snap set is a two man job unless you have a powered riveting tool and then you need someone to position the bucking bar if it is not in a really easy place to access. The bucking bar should be fairly massive to provide the inertia needed to set the rivet without distorting the sheet metal. The idea of threading the rivet is exactly opposite to what is needed. The purpose of the rivet is to expand when it is set to fill the rivet holes and provide positive contact and positioning. Pulling torque on the rivet will tend to neck it or reduce its section and leave the sheet metal loose.It will vibrate and the rivet will eventually wear away. I found a lot of information on this subject on the internet. Unfortunately I did not find a source of snaps and so I'm thinking about finding a tool and die maker who likes my brand of beer. Bill Lawrence > From: mrfinespanner@earthlink.net > To: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net > Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 19:12:41 -0700 > CC: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail > > John, > Pegasus sells the squeezer for setting solid rivets. They ain't cheap--about > $185 > for the tool and dies. > regards, > Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks > > > >Message: 15 > >Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 18:52:40 -0700 > >From: john spaur > >Subject: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail > >To: healeys@autox.team.net > >Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20100408185102.01fcbc88@pop.att.yahoo.com> > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > >How do people set the blind rivets that attach the rear hoop rail and > >rear shroud at the boot lip? > > >Is there a tool? If so where can it be obtained? > > >Thank you, > >John > >'62BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 20:57:40 2010 From: "Rich C" To: , "john spaur" Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 22:24:49 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Major Milestone John, Congratulations. Now you'll have lots of fun assembling and installing all the bits to complete the car. Don't scratch anything! Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "john spaur" Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:07 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Major Milestone > The Healey is back from the body shop and completely painted! > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 20:57:56 2010 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: Rick Neville , , Peter Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 02:36:37 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Many of the british cars of the brass, vintage and classic eras used a right hand shifter with right hand drive. Some early american cars did the same before the left hand drive convention was agreed on. Some shining examples were the early Bentley and I believe Rolls-Royce. Take a look at a few. I don't think you will have trouble finding examples. Bill Lawrence > Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 16:38:04 -0700 > From: healeyrick@yahoo.com > To: healeys@autox.team.net; peter.svilans@rogers.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > > Peter, > > Thanks for the info. I located an Isis picture which looks to have the same > gear lever: http://www.philseed.com/mo-six.html Still would love to see the > linkage. As I reply when asked why I have a belt buckle shaped like a > steering wheel: "It's been driving me nuts!" (No charge for the Friday > Funny > > Rick _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 21:18:58 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: PG Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 19:51:00 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater Hoses Just did this. It can be done without removing the dash or dropping the heater, but it's a tight squeeze and you have to be a bit of a contortionist (console will probably have to come out, though). Thankfully, I have these really tiny hands. Don't forget to put new firewall grommets in while you're at it (preferably, before you fit the new hose). bs PG wrote: > I've got a leaking heater hose....rats! > > > > Can the hoses be changed without removing the dashboard on a late model BJ8? > > > > Thanks > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 01:47:18 2010 From: john spaur To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 22:53:39 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail There is a lot of interest on this subject! Great information such as: Fill the rivet with liquid aluminum and paint Snap style rivets (two piece I presume) How rivets work (compression and expansion to fill the hole) Tool suggestions - sources, costs and types; air hammers, chisels, bucks Methods - weight on the head while forming the penned end What did the factory use? Will someone just loan it to me? I can always dream; right! At 02:24 AM 4/10/2010 +0000, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >I've been looking for a squeezer... for some riveting I need to >do... The problem with a squeezer in the case of the shroud to boot >surround rivets on a Healey is that the ends of the rivets are >within a sheet metal "C" section that is difficult or impossible for >any standard shape of squeezer... > >Bill Lawrence _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 01:48:35 2010 From: john spaur To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 00:22:38 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail Josef, You are absolutely right, and I may do this as many people do. I am not chasing any Concours level; however, because I enjoy restored collectibles, one must decide the restoration standard level; Concours/OEM/NOS , high quality/functionality without regards to perfect originality. The decisions we make and trade offs we accept for changes to OEM parameters and the input from all the listers are what makes this list resource so valuable. Moreover, a lot of the fun associated with our cars is figuring the history, how "the factory" did it, and what you want! John Spaur At 03:20 PM 4/9/2010 +0200, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote: >John, >The easiest way is... pop rivets and fill the holes... > >Josef Eckert _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 02:44:22 2010 From: To: , Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 10:15:57 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail John, I have to say I am very much in Concours. I am just doing the organization for National Concours in the UK. But my personal opinion is we should stay on the ground and not taking Concours as our religion. As an example, for my cars I give me the freedom to paint the engine parts first and then assemble them and not painting all over when assembled. I can also fully understand when others try to get it as close as it was done by the factory. I do not mind that, but I also allow some sort of variance, when its too much efforts to go the factory way or we have better materials or methods now which can be used. For the rivets, I think here you may have one out of 200 Healeys with the original rivets. All others have the pop rivets used. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von john spaur Gesendet: Samstag, 10. April 2010 09:23 An: healeys@autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail Josef, You are absolutely right, and I may do this as many people do. I am not chasing any Concours level; however, because I enjoy restored collectibles, one must decide the restoration standard level; Concours/OEM/NOS , high quality/functionality without regards to perfect originality. The decisions we make and trade offs we accept for changes to OEM parameters and the input from all the listers are what makes this list resource so valuable. Moreover, a lot of the fun associated with our cars is figuring the history, how "the factory" did it, and what you want! John Spaur At 03:20 PM 4/9/2010 +0200, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote: >John, >The easiest way is... pop rivets and fill the holes... > >Josef Eckert _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 02:59:29 2010 From: "Guy R Day" To: , "john spaur" Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:32:37 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail Good comment on both sides. Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "john spaur" To: Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 8:22 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail > Josef, > You are absolutely right, and I may do this as many people do. I am not > chasing any Concours level; however, because I enjoy restored > collectibles, one must decide the restoration standard level; > Concours/OEM/NOS , high quality/functionality without regards to perfect > originality. > > The decisions we make and trade offs we accept for changes to OEM > parameters and the input from all the listers are what makes this list > resource so valuable. Moreover, a lot of the fun associated with our cars > is figuring the history, how "the factory" did it, and what you want! > > John Spaur > > At 03:20 PM 4/9/2010 +0200, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote: >>John, >>The easiest way is... pop rivets and fill the holes... >> >>Josef Eckert > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday@btinternet.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 03:17:21 2010 From: John Harper To: Bob Spidell Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:54:34 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Bob You might be interested to know that during WWII in West London we regularly experienced a drop in frequency during the day. We were told that this was a method of lowering power consumption. It was not much and presumable within legal limits but by the evening synchronous electric clocks could be up to 8 minutes slow. However by the morning they would be correct so presumably the frequency would be above the nominal 50Hz (or should I say 50 cps as they were then) during the night. We did not have a National Grid at that time but I believe that all London power stations were linked together. Regards >Off topic, but .... I've never heard of the power frequency (60Hz) >'sliding' off, at least not here in the States. The voltage can drop >from an overload--i.e. a 'brownout'--but the only thing that could >change the frequency is generator speed changing. Since all the power >producers--hydro, wind, gas, coal, nuke--are tied together in a grid >they are precisely synchronized. > >Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by >an electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to >DC for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency >change would have little to no effect. Most modern electronics have >switching power supplies--they rectify the AC to DC then smooth the DC >with capacitors and step it down--converting back to AC or pulsed DC >then back to DC--as required (+/- 3V, 5V, 12V, etc.). > >bs > > > > >Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote: >> The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a constant >> 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the frequency >> slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could not >> keep the time anymore. >> >> Josef Eckert >> Konigswinter/GERMANY >> > > -- John Harper _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 03:33:38 2010 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: "'Mike Slechta'" , "'Bob Spidell'" Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:18:10 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio G'day Mine is brand new and still in the box it was sold in. It was a gift. Just doesn't work in this part of the world. It's been explained to me what it doesn't, but it's the same as talking Inuit to me. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Slechta Sent: Saturday, 10 April 2010 12:16 AM To: Bob Spidell; Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com Cc: stmiller96@hotmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio All this chatter about the "Austin Healey Barbie Clock". Is this something new or old? What does it look like? Where do I get one? Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Spidell To: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com Cc: healeys@autox.team.net ; stmiller96@hotmail.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 8:28 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Off topic, but .... I've never heard of the power frequency (60Hz) 'sliding' off, at least not here in the States. The voltage can drop from an overload--i.e. a 'brownout'--but the only thing that could change the frequency is generator speed changing. Since all the power producers--hydro, wind, gas, coal, nuke--are tied together in a grid they are precisely synchronized. Frequency would only affect an electromechanical clock--one driven by an electric motor. The Barbie clock is solid state--AC is converted to DC for use by integrated circuits (like the LED display). A frequency change would have little to no effect. Most modern electronics have switching power supplies--they rectify the AC to DC then smooth the DC with capacitors and step it down--converting back to AC or pulsed DC then back to DC--as required (+/- 3V, 5V, 12V, etc.). bs Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote: > The Barbie clock radio is frequency triggered. It works well with a constant > 60 Hertz frequency. In Europe with a 50 Hertz frequency or when the frequency > slides off because of overload in the power supply system the clock could not > keep the time anymore. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta@chartermi.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 04:01:20 2010 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: , Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:24:47 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio G'day Alan I also have driven Isettas. In fact both the 3 and 4 wheel versions. Fun little car that you really have to plan ahead when a hill is coming up. Interesting, the 4 wheel versions were made in Brighton in the UK and as there was no road access to the factory (ex locomotive factory) everything went in and out by train. If you lived in the English countryside it was possible to order you Isetta to be delivered along with your weekly supply of Stilton. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com Sent: Saturday, 10 April 2010 2:30 AM To: Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Alan, it is much easier to drive a Healey than an Isetta. In a BMW Isetta you feel the hill as it slows down the speed of the car before you really see it and you need to think very much in advance to keep your speed. And you may detect any hole in the road, as all four wheels are on a different track. So the Isetta is a real drivers car, as you need to use your brain when driving it. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Alan Seigrist Gesendet: Freitag, 9. April 2010 17:27 An: Healey Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Alan Seigrist Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 23:25:18 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio To: S and T Miller Seems the lot of you have gone a bit light in the loafers, playing with your Barbie dolls. Perhaps I shall sell the Healeys and join the Isetta list - it currently appears to be a place for men with more hair on their chests... ;) On 4/9/10, S and T Miller wrote: > Does anyone have an Austin Healey Barbie clock radio that they actually use. > We do and it doesn't keep very good time. Seems to be slow and 20 > minutes off every month or so. Just curious. > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a > test drive." _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 05:58:26 2010 From: Magnus Karlsson To: Healey Lista Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 13:31:53 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail I use the same method as Roger Moment. His method was discussed earlier. It4s quite easy to bend a buck the shape of the rear shroud. Once that is done it is very simple to attach the correct solid rivets with the help of an air powered chisel or even better a purpose made air rivet hammer. As far as when it comes to concours, should not the factory methods and materials serve as the standard that all interested in concours are aiming for? If not who should decide what deviations are permitted? And what is the use of concours if we compete with cars that are not built to the original specification? Magnus Karlsson Bores Motor Corporation AB Husbondegatan 36B 507 60 Bores Phone +46-703-933349 www.concourshealeys.com 10 apr 2010 kl. 10.15 skrev : > John, > I have to say I am very much in Concours. I am just doing the organization for > National Concours in the UK. > But my personal opinion is we should stay on the ground and not taking > Concours as our religion. As an example, for my cars I give me the freedom to > paint the engine parts first and then assemble them and not painting all over > when assembled. > I can also fully understand when others try to get it as close as it was done > by the factory. I do not mind that, but I also allow some sort of variance, > when its too much efforts to go the factory way or we have better materials or > methods now which can be used. For the rivets, I think here you may have one > out of 200 Healeys with the original rivets. All others have the pop rivets > used. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/GERMANY > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von john spaur > Gesendet: Samstag, 10. April 2010 09:23 > An: healeys@autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] WG: Blind rivets at rear skirt rail > > Josef, > You are absolutely right, and I may do this as many people do. I am not > chasing any Concours level; however, because I enjoy restored collectibles, > one must decide the restoration standard level; Concours/OEM/NOS , high > quality/functionality without regards to perfect originality. > > The decisions we make and trade offs we accept for changes to OEM parameters > and the input from all the listers are what makes this list resource so > valuable. Moreover, a lot of the fun associated with our cars is figuring the > history, how "the factory" did it, and what you want! > > John Spaur > > At 03:20 PM 4/9/2010 +0200, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote: >> John, >> The easiest way is... pop rivets and fill the holes... >> >> Josef Eckert > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 06:15:59 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:51:37 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater Hoses Thought this may be of some interest to others on the list. Sorry to the purists. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "PG" Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater Hoses > Hey Paul, sorry your leaking. Question, how badly do you need a > heater in your area? I live in IN > and usually put my Brit cars up before it gets "heater cold" The reason > I ask is because if you eliminate the heater unit operation you can also > eliminate a lot of heat and coolant spillage in the car. I have always > looked at the Healey unit as an accident waiting to happen since its > inside the car rather than under the hood. You can drain the coolant > from the heater and cap off those hoses at the fire wall and then just > run a long hose from one side of the engine to the other to bypass the > heater and drive with a little more coolness. Just leave the heater in > place. > > My MGA has never had a heater and the Healey unit is bypassed but still > looks original to anybody else. My wife needs to sit a bit closer to me > on those chillier nights, not so bad. And we always have a blanket of > some sort in the trunks if she really needs one. I love the cool breezes. > > Good Luck, > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "PG" > To: > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 8:21 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Heater Hoses > > >> I've got a leaking heater hose....rats! >> >> >> >> Can the hoses be changed without removing the dashboard on a late model >> BJ8? >> >> >> >> Thanks >> >> Paul >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 06:16:54 2010 From: john doe To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 04:54:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 5 speed conversion anyone out there know of a sourse to get a round trim ring and boot shifter the mg one is oval and isn't a good fit for a bj8 all help appreciated _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 07:29:13 2010 From: HealeyRick To: healeys@autox.team.net, john doe Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 06:02:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] 5 speed conversion http://www.cobranda.com/co4sptrrifor.html Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 4/10/10, john doe wrote: From: john doe Subject: [Healeys] 5 speed conversion To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Saturday, April 10, 2010, 7:54 AM anyone out there know of a sourse to get a round trim ring and boot shifter the mg one is oval and isn't a good fit for a bj8 all help appreciated _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 07:47:21 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: John Harper Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 06:19:20 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio That is interesting--may come in handy if I ever get a ride in the Cash Cab. But, I've never heard of it happening in the States. I'm not sufficiently well-versed in electronic theory to know how lowering the frequency can lower consumption. If so, that means the 50Hz system is more efficient and perhaps we should change to it. Power is a function of voltage and current, but there may be a frequency factor in the RMS computation for AC. Any EE's on the List care to explain? bs John Harper wrote: > > Bob > > You might be interested to know that during WWII in West London we > regularly experienced a drop in frequency during the day. We were told > that this was a method of lowering power consumption. It was not much > and presumable within legal limits but by the evening synchronous > electric clocks could be up to 8 minutes slow. However by the morning > they would be correct so presumably the frequency would be above the > nominal 50Hz (or should I say 50 cps as they were then) during the night. > > We did not have a National Grid at that time but I believe that all > London power stations were linked together. > > Regards > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 09:01:13 2010 From: "Peter Linn" To: "Quinn, Patrick" , "'T+ B Willig'" Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 00:33:42 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale Hi Patrick We just got back to Brizzy after 2700 trouble free miles in the Ward Special coupe at about 32mpg and using less than a litre of oil. The car must be worth a million on the basis of the Belgian car. And that's one ugly mother too! Good to meet you at Creswick CHeers Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: "'T+ B Willig'" ; Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:57 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > G'day > > A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the seller. > > A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- > > Sitting Down? > > Euros 270,000 > > Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 > > My friend will no be taking it further. > > Amazing > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > > ________________________________ > From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig@wtnet.de] > Sent: Friday, 9 April 2010 3:02 AM > To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale > > > Please check also: > > http://www.austin-healey.fr/Amis%20Proprietaires%20French/contrihealey100/ami > proprietaire32.html > > here you can see that the car originally had a standard BN1 gesrshifter > layout. > > Regards > > > Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 09:30:41 2010 From: 2x2doc@gmail.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 15:13:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake booster won't release --resolved All, I wrote about my brand new booster not releasing a few weeks ago. With the suggestions from the list I realized that it had to be air control valve so I took it apart. I seems two plastic parts (plunger and valve seat) were not completely seated together keeping the valve closed. I then remembered that the cap over the air control valve assembly had been knocked off in shipping so I figure these other parts must have also come loose during shipping. The brakes now work great. As a plug for Mr Finespanner (Doug Reid) I bought new brake a clutch lines and they are perfect. I also put in his clutch bleeder extension and highly recommend it. It makes bleeding the clutch line trivial. Pat Williams _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 10:29:36 2010 From: "Earl Kagna" To: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:06:14 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio G'day yourself Patrick: Perhaps the problem is that the clock radio won't work upside down! Cheers,Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio G'day Mine is brand new and still in the box it was sold in. It was a gift. Just doesn't work in this part of the world. It's been explained to me what it doesn't, but it's the same as talking Inuit to me. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 12:38:06 2010 From: john spaur To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 23:35:33 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Major Milestone /MiXQMp: Permission denied _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 13:42:09 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Earl Kagna Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:20:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio That, and the AC current is 180deg out-of-phase. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA G'day yourself Patrick: Perhaps the problem is that the clock radio won't work upside down! Cheers,Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri-carb BJ8 G'day Mine is brand new and still in the box it was sold in. It was a gift. Just doesn't work in this part of the world. It's been explained to me what it doesn't, but it's the same as talking Inuit to me. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 19:13:26 2010 From: Charlie Baldwin To: john doe Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 20:56:29 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 5 speed conversion I don't know a lot about BJ8s, but if the shifter comes through at the same place, why would you need anything different from what is stock? Using the forward shift position the shift lever should be in pretty much the stock position on any center shift car. Charlie john doe wrote: > anyone out there know of a sourse to get a round trim ring and boot shifter the mg one is oval and isn't a good fit for a bj8 all help appreciated > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie@comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 19:30:45 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Bob Spidell Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 09:15:24 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey Barbie clock radio Bob - In Australia the electricity is different, it's called AC/DC. Alan On Sun, Apr 11, 2010 at 3:20 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > That, and the AC current is 180deg out-of-phase. > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > > G'day yourself Patrick: > > Perhaps the problem is that the clock radio won't work upside down! > > Cheers,Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BT7 tri-carb > BJ8 > > > > > G'day > > Mine is brand new and still in the box it was sold in. It was a gift. > > Just doesn't work in this part of the world. It's been explained to me what > it doesn't, but it's the same as talking Inuit to me. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 19:46:20 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: "Quinn, Patrick" Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 09:28:38 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale You know, I wonder if that's the same Frenchman that's here in Hong Kong, with a 3000 that's sitting in the jungle for 15 years and rusted to the core. He only wants USD 50,000 for it. Maybe a little spray can Rustoleum should fix it. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 7:57 AM, Quinn, Patrick wrote: > G'day > > A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the seller. > > A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- > > Sitting Down? > > Euros 270,000 > > Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 > > My friend will no be taking it further. > > Amazing > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 00:05:36 2010 From: I Erbs To: Alan Seigrist Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 22:11:23 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 Coupe For Sale POR 50 would be better On Sat, Apr 10, 2010 at 6:28 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > You know, I wonder if that's the same Frenchman that's here in Hong Kong, > with a 3000 that's sitting in the jungle for 15 years and rusted to the > core. He only wants USD 50,000 for it. Maybe a little spray can Rustoleum > should fix it. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > > On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 7:57 AM, Quinn, Patrick < > Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au > > wrote: > > > G'day > > > > A friend was quite interested in the car and made contact with the > seller. > > > > A friendly email came back with photos and the asking price:- > > > > Sitting Down? > > > > Euros 270,000 > > > > Now that's Aus$389,000, Pounds236,115 or US$361,235 > > > > My friend will no be taking it further. > > > > Amazing > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 01:21:46 2010 From: john spaur To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 23:56:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Major Milestone >At 10:24 PM 4/9/2010 -0400, you wrote: >>....Now you'll have lots of fun (cleaning, bead blasting, >>degreasing, priming and painting or plating or powder coating) >>assembling and installing all the bits to complete the car. Don't >>scratch anything! >>Rich >OMG, I already dropped the bonnet from 7' when I was trying to store >it. Dave, the body shop owner, fixed it for no additional charge!) >Yes, this is a lot more fun than taking everything apart!! Aside >from the mechanical labor, there is a tremendous amount of research >and preparation one must do for the materials, methods and restoration setups. > >The hoop rivets are a great example. The list responses ranged from >easy and ubiquitous to concourse correct with suggestions to solving >the tool issues. > >This list is GREAT! > >I need to move on now; (with tongue in check) would someone please >loan me the factory tool? :-) > >Cheers, >John _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 04:43:30 2010 From: john doe To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 03:14:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Mallory dist To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 05:43:28 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: john doe , Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 19:19:46 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mallory dist John - Did you put the plastic rotor on the dist. cam? Also, check your timing, I notice sometimes these kits put timing off by as much as 30 deg, so you need to re-time the ignition, that should fix it. On 4/11/10, john doe wrote: > To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the > car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The > instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a > module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a > ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 05:58:35 2010 From: "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" To: Austin Healey Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 04:31:20 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blind Rivets at Skirt Rail Is this like what you guys are looking for? I have used this company in the past to replace the rivets for the nameplates on the valve cover of my Bugeye. I was supposed to buy thousands of rivets at a time, but the salesman made the suggestion if I bought the hand rivet tolls ($25) for the tubular aluminum rivets for the nameplates, he would send a sample of 100 rivets with the tool. May be able to work out a similar deal with one of these "hand squeezers". http://www.hansonrivet.com/w82b.htm Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 07:14:38 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Alan Seigrist'" , "'john doe'" Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 08:45:09 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mallory dist When I installed my Pertronix, I had to retime the engine to get it to work smoothly as Alan suggested. Simple procedure but it was necessary for me and now the engine hums. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 7:20 AM To: john doe; Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mallory dist John - Did you put the plastic rotor on the dist. cam? Also, check your timing, I notice sometimes these kits put timing off by as much as 30 deg, so you need to re-time the ignition, that should fix it. On 4/11/10, john doe wrote: > To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the > car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The > instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a > module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a > ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 07:59:19 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: john doe Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 06:19:46 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mallory dist Are you getting spark at the coil when cranking? Yes - Proceed NO fault trace distributor/coil wiring Are you getting spark at the plugs Yes- Check timing NO Fault trace distributor cap and rotor. On Sun, Apr 11, 2010 at 3:14 AM, john doe wrote: > To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the > car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The > instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a > module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a > ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 08:15:13 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Alan Seigrist Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 13:59:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mallory dist Am assuming 'pertronics 11' is a dual 'point' kit? Anyway, the last Lister that had this problem (maybe it was on the Forum) didn't have the Pertronix grounded. Pertronix switchers aren't grounded through the distributor--you need a separate ground lead (I like to use the white/black wire that goes to the master cutoff switch--but you have to move the terminal to the same terminal as the battery ground). bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA John - Did you put the plastic rotor on the dist. cam? Also, check your timing, I notice sometimes these kits put timing off by as much as 30 deg, so you need to re-time the ignition, that should fix it. On 4/11/10, john doe wrote: > To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the > car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The > instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a > module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a > ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 09:18:09 2010 From: JLevy10531@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 10:52:40 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 239 RE: Mallory dist. with petronex ignition. your questions were answered except for the ballast resister. you remove it permanently- you dont need it with electronic ignition. i have 2 healeys one with mallory other stock both with petronex ignition --no balast! Jay Levy In a message dated 4/11/2010 10:17:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 09:20:47 2010 From: joe mulqueen To: healey list Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 07:57:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] re Mallory dist Not sure if anyone mentioned, but the thing on side of distributor body is likely the capacitor and should be removed. The two pertronix wires - one goes to the 12v source and other goes to coil. Do you have the instruction sheet? Regards, JoeM (recently did same conversion to Mallory DP in my neg grnd MGA). From: john doe Subject: [Healeys] Mallory dist To: Healeys@autox.team.net Message-ID: <681102.44153.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii To all the guru's out there i have a bj8 with a mallory dual point dist the car is neg ground and i purchased a pertronics 11 ignition kit .The instructions seem simple enough but i can't get the car to start.there's a module on the side of the dist i don't know if thats a condenser or a ballast do i attach it now and were to anyone done this thanks _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 09:45:46 2010 From: Rick Swain To: Healey List Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 15:04:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing I'm in the process of refurbishing the sidescreens for my 1959 BN4. Anyone have any suggestions for installing new rubber weatherstripping in the grooves along the lower and leading edges of the screens? Secondly, suggestions for installing new felt in the track for the sliding screen? What sort of glue is recommended? Thanks in advance. Rick Swain'59 BN4 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail & Messenger. Get them on your phone now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724463 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 10:02:13 2010 From: To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 11:35:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Delayed turn signals Listers, Went on a 160 mile jaunt yesterday with the BN7. She ran perfectly, although fuel mileage was poor. But had constant issues with the turn signals. Once flipping the lever it would take anywhere from 2 to 10 or so seconds for the flashing to begin. Is it time to clean the contacts in the relay? Any help appreciated Keith _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 10:31:26 2010 From: Oudesluys To: pennell@cox.net Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 18:10:34 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Delayed turn signals Check the voltage. When it is well below 12V you get these effects. Kees Oudesluijs pennell@cox.net wrote: > Listers, > > Went on a 160 mile jaunt yesterday with the BN7. She ran perfectly, although fuel mileage was poor. But had constant issues with the turn signals. Once flipping the lever it would take anywhere from 2 to 10 or so seconds for the flashing to begin. Is it time to clean the contacts in the relay? > > Any help appreciated > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.801 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2804 - datum van uitgifte: 04/11/10 08:32:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 13:30:27 2010 From: "Ron Fine" To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" , "john spaur" Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 11:54:37 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blind rivets at rear skirt rail I will add to this information: I was able to locate a type of Pop rivet that is closed on the bottom end. When in place, it looks just like a solid rivet that has been squeezed. Then just put a dab of filler on the top to hide the hole and paint. Looks exactly like the original rivets. Ron Fine 61BN7 > There is a lot of interest on this subject! Great information such as: _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 13:34:09 2010 From: jessmd1@comcast.net To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 19:12:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] datsun conversion Can anyone give a blow by blow description of a Datsun 210 conversion with a rivergate kit on a 1275 cc 1959 Bugeye? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 17:48:43 2010 From: "Richard Collins " To: "Rick Swain " , "healeys@autox.team.net " Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 23:25:37 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing I am in the middle of the same project. Need to replace the plastic lens, felt and seals. I have no parts yet. I see Moss has the seals but nothing else. Any comments welcome. Richard of KY BN7 440 ------Original Message------ From: Rick Swain To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing Sent: Apr 11, 2010 10:04 I'm in the process of refurbishing the sidescreens for my 1959 BN4. Anyone have any suggestions for installing new rubber weatherstripping in the grooves along the lower and leading edges of the screens? Secondly, suggestions for installing new felt in the track for the sliding screen? What sort of glue is recommended? Thanks in advance. Rick Swain'59 BN4 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail & Messenger. Get them on your phone now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724463 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 18:31:27 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Richard Collins '" , "'Rick Swain '" Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 20:07:51 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing You can get everything from British Car Specialists. I just did and they are great. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Collins Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 7:26 PM To: Rick Swain ; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing I am in the middle of the same project. Need to replace the plastic lens, felt and seals. I have no parts yet. I see Moss has the seals but nothing else. Any comments welcome. Richard of KY BN7 440 ------Original Message------ From: Rick Swain To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen refurbishing Sent: Apr 11, 2010 10:04 I'm in the process of refurbishing the sidescreens for my 1959 BN4. Anyone have any suggestions for installing new rubber weatherstripping in the grooves along the lower and leading edges of the screens? Secondly, suggestions for installing new felt in the track for the sliding screen? What sort of glue is recommended? Thanks in advance. Rick Swain'59 BN4 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail & Messenger. Get them on your phone now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724463 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 18:31:59 2010 From: "Neil Anderson" To: , Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 19:16:49 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] datsun conversion Here is the abridged version from the Rivergate website: http://www.rivergate5speed.com/5installation.html The full 11 page detailed instructions come with the conversion kit. Neil Anderson -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jessmd1@comcast.net Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 2:12 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] datsun conversion Can anyone give a blow by blow description of a Datsun 210 conversion with a rivergate kit on a 1275 cc 1959 Bugeye? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 21:20:31 2010 From: "Jerry Costanzo" To: Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 19:58:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Water pump pully removal Hey List, How does the Water pump pully come off the water pump? The pully is a 3/8 inch. Jerry _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 21:50:18 2010 From: I Erbs To: healey help Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 20:19:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 59 frog eye sprite $5K in portland Oregon http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/1677426613.html on craigs list. NFI will check out if serious -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 22:19:09 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Jerry Costanzo Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:40:50 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water pump pully removal If its a replacement pump, it will be a press on / off pulley. Just take it to a machine shop. Factory pumps had a bolt on pulley, but that was phased out almost immediately with rebuilds, I guess the factory stop providing threaded shafts. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 10:58 AM, Jerry Costanzo wrote: > Hey List, > > How does the Water pump pully come off the water pump? > > The pully is a 3/8 inch. > > Jerry > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 08:54:23 2010 From: "Al Fuller" To: "'Carr&Edwards'" , Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:17:06 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Sara: You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which would pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the bracket and light assembly. Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual downside is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site of the set screws. See this example for an idea of how they work: http://tinyurl.com/y3g7lzd http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310213036872 Al Fuller al@bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:25 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Last spring I finally found a nice LED brake light for my MG-TD at www.jandlenterprise.com -- their BrakeLighter is 12"x<1", exterior mount [website doesn't say so, but it is--all molded plastic]. We made two aluminum brackets, similar to badge-bar clips, to fasten it to the luggage rack, and wired it to plug into the trailer-light plug. [If we're towing the trailer, we really don't need the extra brake light--trailer lights are huge.] I'll be buying one for the Healey at Rhinebeck next month; now to figure out a way to mount this one without drilling holes in the deck lid.... Sarah Carr BN1 in PA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 10:23:36 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Healey Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 23:38:50 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Paper Demister Hoses - source? All - Anyone have a suggested source for paper demister hoses? This is for my Atlantic, which uses much longer lengths than the Austin Healey, but diameters are similar. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 11:25:49 2010 From: andy pole To: , Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:36:48 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paper Demister Hoses - source? Alan I know that Ahead4healeys have rolls of the larger 4" hoses and cut it off to suit with a hand saw, not sure about the smaller vent one, otherwise Ashley hinton make most of the heater parts (including new footwell flaps): http://www.mgcars.org.uk/ah/heater.htm cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 11:26:41 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Alan Seigrist Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:52:00 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paper Demister Hoses - source? Genarally they are replaced with plastic spiral wound tubes. Paper tubes were used extensively in European cars like Renault, Citrokn, Simca, VW, Opel, Ford etc. Try these, you could be lucky: http://www.newcoproducts.com/ferrari/air_ducting_hoses.htm http://www.clevaflex.com/pdf/Clevaflex_Air_Handling.pdf Kees Oudesluijs NL Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > Anyone have a suggested source for paper demister hoses? This is for my > Atlantic, which uses much longer lengths than the Austin Healey, but > diameters are similar. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.801 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2806 - datum van uitgifte: 04/12/10 08:32:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 12:00:46 2010 From: I Erbs To: Alan Seigrist Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:09:00 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paper Demister Hoses - source? don't remember if the old VW fresh air ones will work, but you might want to check them out On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 8:38 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > Anyone have a suggested source for paper demister hoses? This is for my > Atlantic, which uses much longer lengths than the Austin Healey, but > diameters are similar. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 13:14:46 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 20:32:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed Hello, I will be soon getting to the paint shop & I need a pattern for the front fender for the dual tone BN2. Does anyone have a good picture of the original lines? Kind Regards, Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 13:44:34 2010 From: "David Z" To: Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:09:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] delayed turn signals In a somewhat related issue, the turn light indicators on the dash of my BJ8 illuminate 3 or 4 times when I flip the signal indicator on the steering wheel hub, then stop, but the outside indicators on the fenders continue to work. What's that about? David Z. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 14:12:13 2010 From: Jaap Aeckerlin To: Al Fuller , Healey forum Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:36:14 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Hi all, would suction cups be a solution? I bought a third brake light in the USA, only to find out it was a rigid construction which could not be bent to follow the shape of the body. I ended up fitting the brake light in my daily car, a Citrokn Break, but I still keep thinking about a possibility to mount a third brake light onto my BJ8 without drilling holes. Has anyone on this list ever used soft pvc suction cups to hold something onto a driving car? Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/4/12 Al Fuller > Sara: > > You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which would > pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the bracket > and light assembly. > > Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual downside > is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site of > the set screws. See this example for an idea of how they work: > http://tinyurl.com/y3g7lzd > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310213036872 > > > Al Fuller > al@bighealey.org > '62 BT-7 > '65 BJ-8 > '85 Rx-7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:25 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch > > Last spring I finally found a nice LED brake light for my MG-TD at > www.jandlenterprise.com -- their BrakeLighter is 12"x<1", exterior mount > [website doesn't say so, but it is--all molded plastic]. We made two > aluminum brackets, similar to badge-bar clips, to fasten it to the luggage > rack, and wired it to plug into the trailer-light plug. [If we're towing > the trailer, we really don't need the extra brake light--trailer lights are > huge.] I'll be buying one for the Healey at Rhinebeck next month; now to > figure out a way to mount this one without drilling holes in the deck > lid.... > > Sarah Carr > BN1 in PA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 15:41:25 2010 From: Roland Wilhelmy To: 'Austin Healey list' Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:50:38 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Early BN1s have an aluminum rear deck lid, but if you have a steel lid you can use magnets. The type that are used to mount CB and ham antennas are very strong. They have a suitable plastic cover to keep the magnet from scratching paint. Or, if you have a removable rear luggage rack you could mount the brake light to it. I would be nervous about setscrews distorting the almost pure aluminum of a deck lid. I haven't tried to see if a bar of steel under an ally lid would link to a sufficiently strong magnet .... -Roland early BN1 On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:36:14 +0200, you wrote: ::Hi all, ::would suction cups be a solution? I bought a third brake light in the USA, ::only to find out it was a rigid construction which could not be bent to ::follow the shape of the body. I ended up fitting the brake light in my daily ::car, a Citrokn Break, but I still keep thinking about a possibility to mount ::a third brake light onto my BJ8 without drilling holes. ::Has anyone on this list ever used soft pvc suction cups to hold something ::onto a driving car? ::Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands ::1964 BJ8 29432 :: ::2010/4/12 Al Fuller :: ::> Sara: ::> ::> You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which would ::> pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the bracket ::> and light assembly. ::> ::> Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual downside ::> is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site of ::> the set screws _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 15:42:03 2010 From: "Dick Matson" To: "AustinHealey List" Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:53:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: brake switch You got a luggage rack (on the back of your car) ? Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Jaap Aeckerlin To: Al Fuller ; Healey forum Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 12:36 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Hi all, would suction cups be a solution? I bought a third brake light in the USA, only to find out it was a rigid construction which could not be bent to follow the shape of the body. I ended up fitting the brake light in my daily car, a Citrokn Break, but I still keep thinking about a possibility to mount a third brake light onto my BJ8 without drilling holes. Has anyone on this list ever used soft pvc suction cups to hold something onto a driving car? Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/4/12 Al Fuller > > Sara: > > You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which would > pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the bracket > and light assembly. > > Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual downside > is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site of > the set screws. See this example for an idea of how they work: > http://tinyurl.com/y3g7lzd > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310213036872 > > > Al Fuller > al@bighealey.org > '62 BT-7 > '65 BJ-8 > '85 Rx-7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:25 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch > > Last spring I finally found a nice LED brake light for my MG-TD at > www.jandlenterprise.com -- their BrakeLighter is 12"x<1", exterior mount > [website doesn't say so, but it is--all molded plastic]. We made two > aluminum brackets, similar to badge-bar clips, to fasten it to the luggage > rack, and wired it to plug into the trailer-light plug. [If we're towing > the trailer, we really don't need the extra brake light--trailer lights are > huge.] I'll be buying one for the Healey at Rhinebeck next month; now to > figure out a way to mount this one without drilling holes in the deck > lid.... > > Sarah Carr > BN1 in PA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 16:41:53 2010 From: I Erbs To: Roland Wilhelmy Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:44:08 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch why not attach the antenna to the rear bumper with clamps, On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 1:50 PM, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: > Early BN1s have an aluminum rear deck lid, but if you have a steel lid > you can use magnets. The type that are used to mount CB and ham > antennas are very strong. They have a suitable plastic cover to keep > the magnet from scratching paint. Or, if you have a removable rear > luggage rack you could mount the brake light to it. I would be > nervous about setscrews distorting the almost pure aluminum of a deck > lid. I haven't tried to see if a bar of steel under an ally lid would > link to a sufficiently strong magnet .... > > -Roland > early BN1 > > On Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:36:14 +0200, you wrote: > > ::Hi all, > ::would suction cups be a solution? I bought a third brake light in the > USA, > ::only to find out it was a rigid construction which could not be bent to > ::follow the shape of the body. I ended up fitting the brake light in my > daily > ::car, a Citrokn Break, but I still keep thinking about a possibility to > mount > ::a third brake light onto my BJ8 without drilling holes. > ::Has anyone on this list ever used soft pvc suction cups to hold something > ::onto a driving car? > ::Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands > ::1964 BJ8 29432 > :: > ::2010/4/12 Al Fuller > :: > ::> Sara: > ::> > ::> You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which > would > ::> pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the > bracket > ::> and light assembly. > ::> > ::> Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual > downside > ::> is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site > of > ::> the set screws > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 18:09:02 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: David Z Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:20:14 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] delayed turn signals David - You probably have a bad connection or bad ground somewhere. Chase the wires off the dash lights and disconnect and reconnect any bullet, screw or Lucar connector you find - that will clear off old surface corrosion and it should start working again. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 3:09 AM, David Z wrote: > In a somewhat related issue, the turn light indicators on the dash of my > BJ8 > illuminate 3 or 4 times when I flip the signal indicator on the steering > wheel > hub, then stop, but the outside indicators on the fenders continue to work. > What's that about? > David Z. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 18:14:54 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:29:56 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed Tadek - The BN2 should have the front swage line embossed behind the wheel opening like all 6-cyl healeys. Only the BN1 had no front swage line. maybe fenders are swapped? Cove colors always start from the bottom of the swage indentation, not the top. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 2:32 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < tadeusz.malkiewicz@plusnet.pl> wrote: > Hello, > > I will be soon getting to the paint shop & I need a pattern for the front > fender for the dual tone BN2. Does anyone have a good picture of the > original lines? > > Kind Regards, Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 18:16:34 2010 From: Don Hardie To: Al Fuller , Carr&Edwards , Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:38:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Sara Check out how I mounted mine, I have just done a 3,000 mile trip and the light didn't move once. Go to John Sims website: - http://www.healey6.com/Technical/100%20TECHNICAL.PDF go to the Bookmarks and scroll down to High Level Brake Light. Have Fun Don BN1 OZ ________________________________ From: Al Fuller To: Carr&Edwards ; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Tue, 13 April, 2010 12:17:06 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Sara: You might try using a set screw in the underside of bracket, which would pinch upwards into the underside of the boot lid, thus securing the bracket and light assembly. Many deck lid antenna brackets use this system, and the only usual downside is you will/might bite through the paint under the deck lid at the site of the set screws. See this example for an idea of how they work: http://tinyurl.com/y3g7lzd http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310213036872 Al Fuller al@bighealey.org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carr&Edwards Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:25 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Last spring I finally found a nice LED brake light for my MG-TD at www.jandlenterprise.com -- their BrakeLighter is 12"x<1", exterior mount [website doesn't say so, but it is--all molded plastic]. We made two aluminum brackets, similar to badge-bar clips, to fasten it to the luggage rack, and wired it to plug into the trailer-light plug. [If we're towing the trailer, we really don't need the extra brake light--trailer lights are huge.] I'll be buying one for the Healey at Rhinebeck next month; now to figure out a way to mount this one without drilling holes in the deck lid.... Sarah Carr BN1 in PA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeynut@yahoo.com.au _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 18:51:58 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:10:47 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed Tadek, There were two different versions, a small diameter curve illustrated nicely on page 25 of "John Wheatley's Austin Healey 100 Super Profile" book, and the later and larger switch back curve that I have attached in a photo. I personally like the smaller diameter curve myself, but it's a matter of personal preference in my opinion. Cheers, Curt Arndt Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) '72 MG Midget, '06 Cooper S On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < tadeusz.malkiewicz@plusnet.pl> wrote: > Hello, > > I will be soon getting to the paint shop & I need a pattern for the front > fender for the dual tone BN2. Does anyone have a good picture of the > original lines? > > Kind Regards, Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Correct 100M Swage Line Return.JPG] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 18:52:44 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:16:56 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed Tadek, Here are some photos of fellow list member Richard Korn's BN2. 12K original miles with original paint and the larger diameter swage line. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 5:10 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Tadek, > > There were two different versions, a small diameter curve illustrated > nicely on page 25 of "John Wheatley's Austin Healey 100 Super Profile" book, > and the later and larger switch back curve that I have attached in a photo. > I personally like the smaller diameter curve myself, but it's a matter of > personal preference in my opinion. > > Cheers, > > Curt Arndt > Carlsbad, CA > '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) '72 MG Midget, '06 Cooper S > > > On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < > tadeusz.malkiewicz@plusnet.pl> wrote: > >> Hello, >> >> I will be soon getting to the paint shop & I need a pattern for the front >> fender for the dual tone BN2. Does anyone have a good picture of the >> original lines? >> >> Kind Regards, Tadek >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0245.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0246.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0247.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0248.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0249.JPG] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 19:29:30 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 19:40:13 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Don, sorry but your "directions" and link are incorrect -:). So folks go to: http://www.healey6.com/ SELECT "Technical" button AFTER you figure out how to re-size your monitor to see it. Then scroll down to the "Safety" box. THEN select the ninth [9th] Article: "Third Brake Light" or the tenth [10th] Article: "Third Brake Light Another Method". For a Big Healey I LOVE John's set-up on "Erica the Red". Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 19:29:59 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Alan Seigrist" , Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 20:53:03 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed Sorry to differ Alan, but that's not correct. There was only a pressing on the inside as a trial for a sort time to attempt to stiffen these large expanses of flat metal on some front fenders, the front surfaces of these were lead loaded so the swage line still disappeared over the chrome spear. Nothing to do with BN2's vs. others. They also tried closing the vent slot toward the end of BN2 production, and some very late cars may or may not have had these on one or the other or neither, or both. No production Hundreds had a 6 cylinder swage carrying on down the wing like a 6 cylinder wing. Colour lines were generally toward the bottom of the cove but often varied and split the difference to at least make the colour line even from one panel to the next, Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alan Seigrist" > Tadek - > > The BN2 should have the front swage line embossed behind the wheel opening > like all 6-cyl healeys. Only the BN1 had no front swage line. maybe > fenders are swapped? > > Cove colors always start from the bottom of the swage indentation, not the > top. > > Alan > On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 2:32 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz < > tadeusz.malkiewicz@plusnet.pl> wrote: > >> Hello, >> >> I will be soon getting to the paint shop & I need a pattern for the front >> fender for the dual tone BN2. Does anyone have a good picture of the >> original lines? >> >> Kind Regards, Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 20:00:53 2010 From: "Greg Lemon" To: Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 20:10:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Great Vintage Video Some nice vintage racing video including some 100s and a 100s, racing from the 50s, in color, sweet! http://vimeo.com/10762127 There are some other good videos on the scroll list on the right as well including a Nash Healey restoration. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 20:01:27 2010 From: "David Z" To: Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:25:51 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch I attached the 3rd brake light I made by using a magnetic material I got from a sign shop. I shaped the bottom side of the brake light to match the curve of the trunk lid, then placed the magnetic material on the trunk lid and glued the brake light to the material. After curing, I trimmed the magnetic material down flush with the edges of the light. I can attach and remove the brake light as needed. David Z. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 23:28:57 2010 From: Don Hardie To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" , Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:48:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Ed My link and instructions work and goes to my 100 Articles on John's site and shows how I mounted my high level brake light without having to drill holes in the rear shroud or boot (trunk) lid. Don ________________________________ From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Tue, 13 April, 2010 10:40:13 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Don, sorry but your "directions" and link are incorrect -:). So folks go to: http://www.healey6.com/ SELECT "Technical" button AFTER you figure out how to re-size your monitor to see it. Then scroll down to the "Safety" box. THEN select the ninth [9th] Article: "Third Brake Light" or the tenth [10th] Article: "Third Brake Light Another Method". For a Big Healey I LOVE John's set-up on "Erica the Red". Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeynut@yahoo.com.au _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 04:26:59 2010 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:58:25 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws G'day In the second series 100 sidescreens there are a series of slotted/recessed screws and elongated washers that hold the frames, material and chrome strips together. Does anyone have a source for these? When I rebuilt the car during the 1980s I used brass screws that were fitted to electric jug plug in cords. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 05:29:22 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 18:41:23 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws Patrick - What size would these screws be? If I know I can point you in the right direction. Are they BA sizes? Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 5:58 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote: > G'day > > > > In the second series 100 sidescreens there are a series of slotted/recessed > screws and elongated washers that hold the frames, material and chrome > strips together. > > > > Does anyone have a source for these? > > > > When I rebuilt the car during the 1980s I used brass screws that were > fitted > to electric jug plug in cords. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 05:30:09 2010 From: mike brooks To: Healeys Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 03:51:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Re - delayed turn signals I had the same on my BN2. A replacement flasher unit cured it. I'm not sure why this should be. It's strange that only the dash light stopped blinking and everything else worked fine. I wanted to retain the original flasher unit as it had all the correct markings on it and the new one doesn't. I'm going to re-can the new unit in the old housing when I get time. Mike Brooks '56 BN2 Message: 2 Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:09:56 -0400 From: "David Z" Subject: [Healeys] delayed turn signals To: Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net Message-ID: <09621C286F9D4E7CBA3C13B67947B6A8@ORGANIZA79207D> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In a somewhat related issue, the turn light indicators on the dash of my BJ8 illuminate 3 or 4 times when I flip the signal indicator on the steering wheel hub, then stop, but the outside indicators on the fenders continue to work. What's that about? David Z. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 06:29:24 2010 From: Ron Mitchell To: Jaap Aeckerlin , Al Fuller Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 04:52:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Hi all, I'm suprised no one has mentioned Bob Slaters Third brake light set up. He modifies the Third brake light to also serve as a turn signal light. He uses a rubber magnet to hold the Third brake light in place. His set up is described on the AHC Southern Ontario Web Site. This Tiny URL will take you the PDF file. http://tinyurl.com/yau5mbx which is found on http://www.ahcso.com I have a third light that I purchased from J. C. Whitney/ http://tinyurl.com/ycmvqa9 I applied 2 inch masking tape to my deck lid and did a bondo squeeze to get the mounting surface to conform to the deck lid I then use a strong rubber magnet to mount it. The wiring harness was modified so I could remove the Third brake Light for Car Shows. I plan on changing to the Bob Slater Design. It offers a much cleaner appearance. Ron ________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 06:29:59 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" , Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:56:22 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws Patrick, Here's the kicker....they are the same arrangement on the 3rd (last series) of Hundred sidescreens and they are quite faithfully reproduced by AH Spares. So somebody is making these little "screw/oval flat washer brazed assemblies" along with the sleeved slotted nuts, but they don't seem to sell them separately. Lots of Hundred owners need them to repair their second series (signal flap style) which nobody makes. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:58 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws > G'day > > > > In the second series 100 sidescreens there are a series of > slotted/recessed > screws and elongated washers that hold the frames, material and chrome > strips together. > > > > Does anyone have a source for these? > > > > When I rebuilt the car during the 1980s I used brass screws that were > fitted > to electric jug plug in cords. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 07:00:58 2010 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: "'Alan Seigrist'" Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 22:26:40 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws G'day Alan They are standard VBS size - Very Bloody Small. Going on what Rich has said I think a call to HPM (OZ electrical switches, cords etc manufacturer) might be in order. Time for ZZZ. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _____ From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, 13 April 2010 8:41 PM To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws Patrick - What size would these screws be? If I know I can point you in the right direction. Are they BA sizes? Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 5:58 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: G'day In the second series 100 sidescreens there are a series of slotted/recessed screws and elongated washers that hold the frames, material and chrome strips together. Does anyone have a source for these? When I rebuilt the car during the 1980s I used brass screws that were fitted to electric jug plug in cords. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 07:30:35 2010 From: Jack Feldman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:41:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 3rd Brake Light I think the nicest 3rd brake lite is a permanently mounted Chevy light. It is from a Suburban or Tahoe. Once again we are thankful to John Sims and his great web site. You can see it by going to http://www.healey6.com/ He even shows a picture of it on his Healey. I tried to copy the exact URL, but it didn't seem to work. If you haven't seen his site, then browse and enjoy. It is outstanding. Jack _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 07:31:15 2010 From: To: Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:52:20 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws Patrick, Ask AH Spares to make you an offer for the sidescreen screws. I have got the screws from them, but bought them over the counter. But you also need the nuts, as the thread is different to the original ones. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GERMANY -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rich C Gesendet: Dienstag, 13. April 2010 13:56 An: Patrick and Caroline Quinn; Healeys@autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws Patrick, Here's the kicker....they are the same arrangement on the 3rd (last series) of Hundred sidescreens and they are quite faithfully reproduced by AH Spares. So somebody is making these little "screw/oval flat washer brazed assemblies" along with the sleeved slotted nuts, but they don't seem to sell them separately. Lots of Hundred owners need them to repair their second series (signal flap style) which nobody makes. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:58 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] 100 Sidescreen Screws > G'day > > > > In the second series 100 sidescreens there are a series of > slotted/recessed > screws and elongated washers that hold the frames, material and chrome > strips together. > > > > Does anyone have a source for these? > > > > When I rebuilt the car during the 1980s I used brass screws that were > fitted > to electric jug plug in cords. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 07:33:03 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Ron Mitchell'" , "'Jaap Aeckerlin'" Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:55:05 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch He uses the same third brake light that I used but his turn signal modification is a very good one! I have mine wired to a mechanical switch that is located on the brake pedal arm so that it will work if the pressure switch fails and vice versa. Point is that this particular light assembly is inexpensive and it looks great. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 7:52 AM To: Jaap Aeckerlin; Al Fuller; Healey forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Hi all, I'm suprised no one has mentioned Bob Slaters Third brake light set up. He modifies the Third brake light to also serve as a turn signal light. He uses a rubber magnet to hold the Third brake light in place. His set up is described on the AHC Southern Ontario Web Site. This Tiny URL will take you the PDF file. http://tinyurl.com/yau5mbx which is found on http://www.ahcso.com I have a third light that I purchased from J. C. Whitney/ http://tinyurl.com/ycmvqa9 I applied 2 inch masking tape to my deck lid and did a bondo squeeze to get the mounting surface to conform to the deck lid I then use a strong rubber magnet to mount it. The wiring harness was modified so I could remove the Third brake Light for Car Shows. I plan on changing to the Bob Slater Design. It offers a much cleaner appearance. Ron _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 08:05:31 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 15:06:50 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual tone BN2 -front curve pattern needed Rich and all who mailed me photos, many thanks, they are most helpful! There is another good shot in the Concourse Guidelines, which is taken at the right angle. I have another question though. How is the paint at the door edge, how is far is it painted around the wheel arch, how is the sill painted? I understand the duo tones were painted after the normal paint process and were not really a part of it. Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 08:53:03 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Jack Feldman'" , Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:40:13 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3rd Brake Light The photos referred to are on the My Modifications section of the Technical Page. Unfortunately, that file is corrupted as my PDF converter fouled it up when I tried to update it last night. I am working on a fix and should have that back in business sometime later today or tomorrow. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack Feldman Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 8:42 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3rd Brake Light I think the nicest 3rd brake lite is a permanently mounted Chevy light. It is from a Suburban or Tahoe. Once again we are thankful to John Sims and his great web site. You can see it by going to http://www.healey6.com/ He even shows a picture of it on his Healey. I tried to copy the exact URL, but it didn't seem to work. If you haven't seen his site, then browse and enjoy. It is outstanding. Jack _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 09:36:32 2010 From: andy pole To: , Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:16:12 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Re - delayed turn signals Looking at the wiring diagram for the FL5 flasher unit on a BJ8 there are two sets of contacts, one to drive the indicator light circuit and one to drive the Dash lights. The dash light contact points may need cleaning. It looks like a quick check to test if its the contacts would be to take the indicator can out of the circuit. Therefore terminal B (green cable from fuse) and terminal P (light green and pink cable to dash lights) and terminal L (green and brown feed to load / main indicator lights via trafficator switch) could all be shorted together. With the trafficator moved either side it should turn on thats side indicator light and dash lights permantly. If lights are dull or not working checks earth contacts. In theory this would work for the earlier cars that use the extra relay to switch between combined brake lights / indicators etc (dont quote me as I have not studied the diagram for the DB10 relay). cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 09:38:14 2010 From: Jack Feldman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:51:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] History Channel Program on Austin Healey If anyone is interested the HC program on Healey is available on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270520495848&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT The usual disclaimer. Jack _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 10:24:41 2010 From: I Erbs To: John Sims Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:26:39 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3rd Brake Light Ok, so now that I have read the thread I will offer some real advice....As per the article on the GMC 3rd light. *http://tinyurl.com/y364kpk light for sale on ebay $52.95. says 7 available Looks really good * On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 6:40 AM, John Sims wrote: > The photos referred to are on the My Modifications section of the Technical > Page. Unfortunately, that file is corrupted as my PDF converter fouled it > up > when I tried to update it last night. I am working on a fix and should have > that back in business sometime later today or tomorrow. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Jack Feldman > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 8:42 AM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 3rd Brake Light > > I think the nicest 3rd brake lite is a permanently mounted Chevy light. It > is from a Suburban or Tahoe. Once again we are thankful to John Sims and > his > great web site. You can see it by going to > http://www.healey6.com/ > He even shows a picture of it on his Healey. > > I tried to copy the exact URL, but it didn't seem to work. If you haven't > seen his site, then browse and enjoy. It is outstanding. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 11:07:56 2010 From: "Carr&Edwards" To: "Healey forum" Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:11:34 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch The BrakeLighter third brake light I used is designed to also function as turn signals, if desired. Love the idea of using flexible magnetic material from a sign shop! Sarah Carr BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Mitchell" To: "Jaap Aeckerlin" ; "Al Fuller" ; "Healey forum" Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 7:52 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch > Hi all, > > > I'm suprised no one has mentioned Bob Slaters Third brake light set > up. He modifies the Third brake light to also serve as a turn signal > light. > He uses a rubber magnet to hold the Third brake light in place. His set > up is > described on the AHC Southern Ontario Web Site. This Tiny URL will take > you the PDF file. http://tinyurl.com/yau5mbx which is found on > http://www.ahcso.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 12:35:22 2010 From: "Dan Stromquist" To: Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:37:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 69 Volvo 1800S If anyone has an interest in a restored 69 Volvo 1800S please contact me off list or call. Dan 952-831-1340 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 16:21:42 2010 From: "Zorrolives" To: Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:06:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Value of '64 3000 Mark III, Phase One Project I have a partially disassembled Healey restoration project that kids and career have long since forced me to abandon. I have decided to sell the car, but am not really sure what to ask for it or where best to list it. Any guidance is appreciated. John _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 16:24:03 2010 From: HealeyRick To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:30:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! Leave it to the boys from the Land Down Under to come up with AH 3000 go-kart racing: http://www.junior3000gt.com/ Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 18:41:28 2010 From: Bob Haskell To: Ron Mitchell Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:34:09 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Ron, I like what Paul's done. It simplifies the modifications to the 6 cylinder roadster wiring. One can hook the leads to the wiring for the turn signal/brake lights. I have the same third brake light, but it's not clear (to me) from the photos exactly what the modifications to the light are. A description of what's been done would help. How many circuit board cutouts are there? Looks like two. Before and after photos or a drawing would help (cut/scrape here). Two resistors added? One resistor is attached to the two sides of the board. Looks like the other resistor is attached to the (new) lead for one tail light. I assume that the one of the existing leads has another resistor and is used for the other tail light. Just thinking out loud. I'll take my light apart and see if I can figure this out (or let the smoke out). It's probably dirt on the floor, but it looks like Paul's car has four exhaust pipes. :) Thanks for the link. Cheers, Bob Ron Mitchell wrote: > Hi all, > > > I'm suprised no one has mentioned Bob Slaters Third brake light set > up. He modifies the Third brake light to also serve as a turn signal light. > He uses a rubber magnet to hold the Third brake light in place. His set up is > described on the AHC Southern Ontario Web Site. This Tiny URL will take > you the PDF file. http://tinyurl.com/yau5mbx which is found on > http://www.ahcso.com > > I have a third light that I purchased from J. C. > Whitney/ http://tinyurl.com/ycmvqa9 I applied 2 inch masking tape to my > deck lid and did a bondo squeeze to get the mounting surface to conform to the > deck lid I then use a strong rubber magnet to mount it. The wiring harness > was modified so I could remove the Third brake Light for Car Shows. I plan on > changing to the Bob Slater Design. It offers a much cleaner appearance. > > Ron > ________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 18:42:29 2010 From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net, MidwestAHC@yahoogroups.com, Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:38:28 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Springthing Springthing is going to be sell out this year. We have 58 rooms reserved at the historic Boone Tavern and were able to get 8 more today. We do have a overflow hotel arranged but if you are planning to attend make your reservations soon. For complete info see bluegrassclub.com. Isn't it nice to be having this type of a problem? This is going to be a really good Springthing. We have an extremely diverse group coming, and so many different states represented too. Awesome. We have ten states represented, both coasts and top to bottom. Oregon to Maine and Michigan to Texas. The long distance trophy is going to be a hoot to decide on. We will have a long distance trophy! And don't forget a hard luck trophy too. With people driving these distances someone is bound to have a hard luck story. Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, KY, Maine, Michigan, Ohio, Oregon, Tennessee, Texas so far represented! Join us along the Bourbon Trail for Springtime in Kentucky! Jim Werner Louisville, KY _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 03:21:47 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Jaap Aeckerlin Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:24:47 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch I would suggest a few strips of double sided adhesive tape, the kind with a foam layer of about 1mm. Easy to remove if wanted with a hairdryer and you can remove the residue with a bit of white spirit. Use good quality tape (e.g. 3M) as some lesser quality stuff tends to disintegrate or become undone under heat from the sun. Kees Oudesluijs NL Jaap Aeckerlin wrote: > Hi all, > would suction cups be a solution? I bought a third brake light in the USA, > only to find out it was a rigid construction which could not be bent to > follow the shape of the body. I ended up fitting the brake light in my daily > car, a Citrokn Break, but I still keep thinking about a possibility to mount > a third brake light onto my BJ8 without drilling holes. > Has anyone on this list ever used soft pvc suction cups to hold something > onto a driving car? > Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands > 1964 BJ8 29432 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 04:09:16 2010 From: Jaap Aeckerlin To: Healey forum Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:13:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Cheap 3rd brake light Guys, I received a reaction from a Canadian lister regarding my query how to mount a 3rd brake light. He informed me that very cheap lights were sold on eBay, so I searched for 24LED 12V CAR REAR LIGHT BRAKE STOP TAIL RED LED BULBS and just bought such a light for 1 dollarcent. Don't ask me how the seller ("keyman.321") survives, and I haven't received the light yet, but at a total cost to me of 7 dollars (shipping is 6.99) there is not much to loose. Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 04:53:42 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: robert westcott <55healey@comcast.net> Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 17:34:43 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Hi All - I have a slightly different opinion here, but I have always found replacing the brake light pressure switch to be easy and cheap (and I've never had to return one for being bad). British cars are designed to where this switch can be replaced without having to bleed the brakes - if you just swap the bad one out for a good one quickly. The switches are located on a three way or four way junction very low on the chassis for this very reason. Once replaced, the switches activate at the earliest touch of pressure. I guess my view is it's less trouble to keep the original.... and rigging up a mechanical switch may suffer from the law of unintended consequences. That being said, I understand the desire to replace these switches with a mechanical one, but the hydraulic ones seem to work just fine, they just need to be replaced every couple of decades like anything. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 11:57 PM, robert westcott <55healey@comcast.net>wrote: > Hi Mel, > > Did the exact thing about 5 years ago, used to have to stomp the brakes to > turn on the lights even with a new pressure switch. > I have it set to turn them on when I just touch the pedal. A bright 3rd LED > light that is attached to the trunk with magnets completes the package. > I bought the lED strip from Watson's as well and machined a bracket to fit > the curve of the trunk. It pops off and slips in the trunk for shows. > This light has saved my butt (and the Healy's tail) many times. > > Rob _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 07:07:13 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Alan Seigrist , robert westcott Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 7:22:26 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added the mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of pressure to activate. With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake kights. tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= Hi All - I have a slightly different opinion here, but I have always found replacing the brake light pressure switch to be easy and cheap (and I've never had to return one for being bad). British cars are designed to where this switch can be replaced without having to bleed the brakes - if you just swap the bad one out for a good one quickly. The switches are located on a three way or four way junction very low on the chassis for this very reason. Once replaced, the switches activate at the earliest touch of pressure. I guess my view is it's less trouble to keep the original.... and rigging up a mechanical switch may suffer from the law of unintended consequences. That being said, I understand the desire to replace these switches with a mechanical one, but the hydraulic ones seem to work just fine, they just need to be replaced every couple of decades like anything. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 11:57 PM, robert westcott <55healey@comcast.net>wrote: > Hi Mel, > > Did the exact thing about 5 years ago, used to have to stomp the brakes to > turn on the lights even with a new pressure switch. > I have it set to turn them on when I just touch the pedal. A bright 3rd LED > light that is attached to the trunk with magnets completes the package. > I bought the lED strip from Watson's as well and machined a bracket to fit > the curve of the trunk. It pops off and slips in the trunk for shows. > This light has saved my butt (and the Healy's tail) many times. > > Rob _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 09:07:00 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Tom Felts'" , "'Alan Seigrist'" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:20:28 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch That is what I have done. I have fixed the link to the modifications PDF which shows my wiring diagram and photos of my installation. It is in the My Modifications section of the Technical page of my site. Thanks for your patience, all but I had a severe boo-boo on my computer that took me longer than I wished to fix. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 8:22 AM To: Alan Seigrist; robert westcott Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added the mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of pressure to activate. With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake kights. tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= Hi All - I have a slightly different opinion here, but I have always found replacing the brake light pressure switch to be easy and cheap (and I've never had to return one for being bad). British cars are designed to where this switch can be replaced without having to bleed the brakes - if you just swap the bad one out for a good one quickly. The switches are located on a three way or four way junction very low on the chassis for this very reason. Once replaced, the switches activate at the earliest touch of pressure. I guess my view is it's less trouble to keep the original.... and rigging up a mechanical switch may suffer from the law of unintended consequences. That being said, I understand the desire to replace these switches with a mechanical one, but the hydraulic ones seem to work just fine, they just need to be replaced every couple of decades like anything. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 an/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 09:08:33 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'HealeyRick'" , Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:27:52 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! Isn't this the same guy who build a one half scale model for his son several years ago???? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:30 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! Leave it to the boys from the Land Down Under to come up with AH 3000 go-kart racing: http://www.junior3000gt.com/ Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 09:08:51 2010 From: John Harper To: Tom Felts Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 15:32:02 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Tom I am aware of many examples of aftermarket switches needing too much pressure before they activate. One example was when I drove down hill behind a 100 in Wales. His brake lights only came on when he braked hard whereas the A-H behind me said that mine came on whenever I put my foot on the pedal. His was a recently purchased item. I have never experienced any problems with an original pressure switch and my conclusion is that it is only the ones that are non original and recently supplied that are 'not to specification'. What do others think? Regards >You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se >in the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. >I added the mechanical one because the original types always required a >lot of pressure to activate. > >With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake kights. > >tom -- John Harper _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 09:56:05 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: John Harper Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 22:45:19 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Tom - I guess some people have had problems with some of the switches out there, but I have four new switches on all four of my cars, and the lights on all of them go one with the first touch of pressure, no problems. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 10:32 PM, John Harper wrote: > > Tom > > I am aware of many examples of aftermarket switches needing too much > pressure before they activate. One example was when I drove down hill behind > a 100 in Wales. His brake lights only came on when he braked hard whereas > the A-H behind me said that mine came on whenever I put my foot on the > pedal. His was a recently purchased item. > > I have never experienced any problems with an original pressure switch and > my conclusion is that it is only the ones that are non original and recently > supplied that are 'not to specification'. > > What do others think? > > Regards > > > You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in >> the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added >> the mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of >> pressure to activate. >> >> With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake >> kights. >> >> tom >> > > -- > John Harper _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 10:40:34 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Tom Felts" , "John Harper" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:49:29 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch I quite agree with you John. The problem lies in the fact that original equipment quality simply is not available unless you stumble across a stash of n.o.s. switches that are at least pre 1968. It seems to me that from about that point in time on Lucas things began to cheapen. The only originals that I've seen fail, had been sitting dry and unused for decades, then were put back to work. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Harper" Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 10:32 AM To: "Tom Felts" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch > Tom > > I am aware of many examples of aftermarket switches needing too much > pressure before they activate. One example was when I drove down hill > behind a 100 in Wales. His brake lights only came on when he braked hard > whereas the A-H behind me said that mine came on whenever I put my foot on > the pedal. His was a recently purchased item. > > I have never experienced any problems with an original pressure switch and > my conclusion is that it is only the ones that are non original and > recently supplied that are 'not to specification'. > > What do others think? > > Regards > >>You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in >>the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added >>the mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of >>pressure to activate. >> >>With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake >>kights. >> >>tom > > -- > John Harper > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 11:26:00 2010 From: "E.A. Driver" To: John Sims Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:04:40 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! Hi John The one you refer to was built by Chris Dimmock. Was there a contact name on the web site? I did not see one. Kind regards Ed John Sims wrote: > Isn't this the same guy who build a one half scale model for his son several > years ago???? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 11:26:34 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: John Sims Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 02:04:42 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! Yes it is, its Colin Rule, but he doesn't have a son... He's just a "certifiable" Healey enthusiast!! http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html Sent from my iPhone On 15/04/2010, at 12:27 AM, "John Sims" wrote: > Isn't this the same guy who build a one half scale model for his son > several > years ago???? > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of HealeyRick > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:30 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! > > Leave it to the boys from the Land Down Under to come up with AH 3000 > go-kart racing: http://www.junior3000gt.com/ > > Rick > > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 11:27:05 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Alan Seigrist , John Harper Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:09:10 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch I have few examples of "high" pressure to activate switches, but I know of at least 2 others (BJ8's) here thatr have the same problems and they added the mechanical sw for the same reason as I. I'm sure my pressure sw is an aftermarket one. tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= Tom - I guess some people have had problems with some of the switches out there, but I have four new switches on all four of my cars, and the lights on all of them go one with the first touch of pressure, no problems. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 10:32 PM, John Harper wrote: > > Tom > > I am aware of many examples of aftermarket switches needing too much > pressure before they activate. One example was when I drove down hill behind > a 100 in Wales. His brake lights only came on when he braked hard whereas > the A-H behind me said that mine came on whenever I put my foot on the > pedal. His was a recently purchased item. > > I have never experienced any problems with an original pressure switch and > my conclusion is that it is only the ones that are non original and recently > supplied that are 'not to specification'. > > What do others think? > > Regards > > > You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in >> the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added >> the mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of >> pressure to activate. >> >> With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake >> kights. >> >> tom >> > > -- > John Harper _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 11:27:39 2010 From: "E.A. Driver" To: John Harper Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 10:18:59 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch Hi John One of the contacts original pressure switch on my BJ8 was damaged and I placed it with one from a supplier in the UK, both worked as your described for your 100. Kind regards Ed Saskatoon John Harper wrote: > Tom > > I am aware of many examples of aftermarket switches needing too much > pressure before they activate. One example was when I drove down hill > behind a 100 in Wales. His brake lights only came on when he braked > hard whereas the A-H behind me said that mine came on whenever I put > my foot on the pedal. His was a recently purchased item. > > I have never experienced any problems with an original pressure switch > and my conclusion is that it is only the ones that are non original > and recently supplied that are 'not to specification'. > > What do others think? > > Regards > >> You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se >> in the system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. >> I added the mechanical one because the original types always required >> a lot of pressure to activate. >> >> With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake >> kights. >> >> tom _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 12:14:55 2010 From: "Mark Goodman" To: Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 13:09:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to replace the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for the high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, is there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA does have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on the road and not in the garage. Mark 66BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 13:57:51 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Mark Goodman'" , Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:46:28 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH SL144 John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Goodman Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to replace the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for the high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, is there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA does have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on the road and not in the garage. Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 16:32:10 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: "E.A. Driver" Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 07:47:58 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Only the Aussies! Hi Ed, No, it wasn't me, it's Colin Rule. Colin's half scale "Junior" was his first scale model Healey project, and the "junior 3000 GT" go kart is a later project. My daughter used to drive Junior at display days. http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html Best Chris On 15/04/2010, at 2:04 AM, "E.A. Driver" wrote: > Hi John > > The one you refer to was built by Chris Dimmock. Was there a > contact name on the web site? I did not see one. > > Kind regards > Ed > > > John Sims wrote: >> Isn't this the same guy who build a one half scale model for his >> son several >> years ago???? >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 18:31:40 2010 From: Bob Haskell To: John Sims Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 19:40:53 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches That part is for at least the 6 cylinders w/o servo. I don't know if the 100 used the same switch as the 6 cylinder roadsters. I believe the servo switch is a different design. Someone confirm/refute? Bob John Sims wrote: > Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH SL144 > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Mark Goodman > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches > > I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to replace > the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. > It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for the > high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, is > there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA does > have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am > sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on > the road and not in the garage. > > > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 03:18:19 2010 From: "Craig Rice" To: "Bob Haskell" Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 04:38:20 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches Bob, I use NAPA SL144 on the 100, but find it necessary to elongate the threaded wire slot so it does not act like a guilotine. Craig Rice (Indiana) BN1 & BN2 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Haskell" To: "John Sims" Cc: ; "'Mark Goodman'" Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 7:40 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches > That part is for at least the 6 cylinders w/o servo. I don't know if the > 100 used the same switch as the 6 cylinder roadsters. I believe the servo > switch is a different design. Someone confirm/refute? > > Bob > > John Sims wrote: >> Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH >> SL144 >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> http://www.healey6.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net >> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Mark Goodman >> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM >> To: healeys@autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches >> >> I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to >> replace >> the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. >> It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for >> the >> high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, >> is >> there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA >> does >> have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I >> am >> sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on >> the road and not in the garage. >> >> >> >> Mark >> _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 05:15:52 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Bob Haskell Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:18:59 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches Bob - They all use the same switch up to BJ7, the only difference is on the BJ8 the switch has lucar terminals. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 7:40 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > That part is for at least the 6 cylinders w/o servo. I don't know if the > 100 used the same switch as the 6 cylinder roadsters. I believe the servo > switch is a different design. Someone confirm/refute? > > Bob > > John Sims wrote: > >> Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH >> SL144 >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> http://www.healey6.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto: >> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Mark Goodman >> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM >> To: healeys@autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches >> >> I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to >> replace >> the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. >> It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for >> the >> high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, >> is >> there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA >> does >> have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am >> sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on >> the road and not in the garage. >> >> >> >> Mark >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 05:18:02 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Craig Rice Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:25:17 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches Seems if you drill the hole all the way through the brass like the original Lucas switches, you'll be fine: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL144_0160673813# Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 4:38 PM, Craig Rice wrote: > Bob, > I use NAPA SL144 on the 100, but find it necessary to elongate the threaded > wire slot so it does not act like a guilotine. > > Craig Rice (Indiana) > BN1 & BN2 > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Haskell" > To: "John Sims" > Cc: ; "'Mark Goodman'" > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 7:40 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches > > > > That part is for at least the 6 cylinders w/o servo. I don't know if the >> 100 used the same switch as the 6 cylinder roadsters. I believe the servo >> switch is a different design. Someone confirm/refute? >> >> Bob >> >> John Sims wrote: >> >>> Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH >>> SL144 >>> >>> John Sims, BN6 >>> Aberdeen, NJ >>> http://www.healey6.com >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto: >>> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] >>> On Behalf Of Mark Goodman >>> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM >>> To: healeys@autox.team.net >>> Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches >>> >>> I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to >>> replace >>> the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. >>> It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for >>> the >>> high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, >>> is >>> there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA >>> does >>> have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I >>> am >>> sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on >>> the road and not in the garage. >>> >>> >>> >>> Mark >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >> _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 05:18:31 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: John Sims Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:40:47 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches John - Looks like the spade terminal version of the NAPA brake light switch is this one: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL143_0160679688 That would be the one for BJ8s.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 2:46 AM, John Sims wrote: > Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH SL144 > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Mark Goodman > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches > > I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to replace > the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. > It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for > the > high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, > is > there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA does > have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am > sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on > the road and not in the garage. > > > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 07:14:30 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: Alan Seigrist Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:18:49 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches In over 30 years of driving sprites and big Healeys, I've only had a brake light switch fail once. At scrutineering..... Being a few hours from home, I went to the local Repco dealer. He sold me a "one size fits all for BMC cars" hydraulic brake switch. Rushed back to Wakefield Park racetrack - opened the box - and it had a tapered thread.... Long story short, i went over to the V8 supercar workshop (that used to be there), with the "new" one and the old (failed) one; he cut a new parallel thread to match the old one; I fitted it; bled the brakes; passed scrutineering; and ran all day. So $6 au plus a few beers I bought afterwards, and that switch is still in the BJ8 (6 yrs later); and still comes on with a light touch.... Pretty reliable in my experience. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 15/04/2010, at 8:40 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > John - > > Looks like the spade terminal version of the NAPA brake light switch > is this > one: > > http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL143_0160679688 > > > That would be the one for BJ8s.... > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > > On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 2:46 AM, John Sims wrote: > >> Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number >> ECH SL144 >> >> John Sims, BN6 >> Aberdeen, NJ >> >> http://www.healey6.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto: >> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] >> On Behalf Of Mark Goodman >> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM >> To: healeys@autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches >> >> I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to >> replace >> the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once >> again. >> It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the >> reason for >> the >> high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that >> special, >> is >> there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? >> NAPA does >> have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor >> shaft. I am >> sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our >> cars on >> the road and not in the garage. >> >> >> >> Mark >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 08:44:48 2010 From: warthodson@aol.com To: healey.nut@gmail.com, rchaskell@earthlink.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:09:36 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches While restoring my Phase 1 BJ8 I had heard all the horror stories about the pressure switch failing frequently &/or requiring a lot of pressure to operate. However, I had never personally experienced any of these issues. I decided to replace the original four way connector with a five way (from a Sprite, as I recall) & install a second pressure switch in the extra fitting. That switch was wired in parallel with a second switch installed in the original three way connector. Which ever switch closes first activates the brake lights & if one ever fails, I still have a backup switch installed & wired. An added benefit is that the new switch is installed in the brake lines after the booster, therefore it should see higher pressure & close sooner. Only two inconspicuous wires were required & a 5 way connector installed in place of the original four way. Gary Hodson _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 09:17:11 2010 From: warthodson@aol.com To: healey.nut@gmail.com, ahbn6@verizon.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:16:21 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches That link doesn't work for me. Can you provide the NAPA part #? Thanks, Gary -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: John Sims Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; Mark Goodman Sent: Thu, Apr 15, 2010 5:40 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches John - Looks like the spade terminal version of the NAPA brake light switch is this ne: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL143_0160679688 hat would be the one for BJ8s.... Alan '52 A90 53 BN1 59 Jag Mk IX 64 BJ8 n Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 2:46 AM, John Sims wrote: > Listed on the Replacement Parts page of my site. Napa Part Number ECH SL144 John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Goodman Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:09 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Pressure Switches I have owned my 66 BJ8 since 1969 and only about 5 years ago had to replace the original pressure switch. Since then, I have replaced it once again. It has to be the poor quality of the current ones that is the reason for the high pedal pressure. Since these pressure switches are not that special, is there a NAPA Number or equivalent to get a reliable replacement? NAPA does have a good rotor which does not short out on the distributor shaft. I am sure others would benefit from this and it would keep many of our cars on the road and not in the garage. Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com ______________________________________________ ealeys@autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 09:48:52 2010 From: "John Sims" To: , Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:08:36 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches It is part of the link cited by Alan --- ECH SL143 John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From: warthodson@aol.com [mailto:warthodson@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 10:16 AM To: healey.nut@gmail.com; ahbn6@verizon.net Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; mkgoodman@att.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches That link doesn't work for me. Can you provide the NAPA part #? Thanks, Gary -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: John Sims Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; Mark Goodman Sent: Thu, Apr 15, 2010 5:40 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches John - Looks like the spade terminal version of the NAPA brake light switch is this one: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL143_0160679688 That would be the one for BJ8s.... Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 10:17:07 2010 From: Richard Kahn To: Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 08:29:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of his knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. Rich Kahn _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 10:18:01 2010 From: andy pole To: , , Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 15:40:18 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pressure Switches Gary part number to the link was ECH SL143 and direct link: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL143_0160679688 cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 11:13:53 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Richard Kahn'" , Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 12:24:30 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Major loss to our community There is a notice on their web site. What a loss to the Healey community. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 11:29 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of his knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 11:49:55 2010 From: I Erbs To: Richard Kahn Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:10:36 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Major loss to our community wow!! I was just there last month to meet him face to face for the first time. Any details onhis passing? He sure looked healthy to me..... What a shame. Ira On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 8:29 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist > this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of > his > knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true > gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. > Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. > Rich Kahn > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your > inbox. > > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 12:20:43 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Richard Kahn Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:41:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Major loss to our community I am very sorry to hear this. I just ordered parts a couple weeks ago and inquired of Norman; there was no indication of anything amiss. My condolences to David and Sheila and the rest of the Nock family. He will be missed by many. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of his knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 13:32:33 2010 From: "Dick Matson" To: "AustinHealey List" Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:48:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock David and Sheila; I'm so sorry to see the news today. There's no way to begin to tally what your Dad has done for everyone and anyone interested in British cars. I'm glad to have met him. Sincerely, Dick Matson Cashmere, WA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 13:33:18 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Richard Kahn" , Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 14:51:07 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Major loss to our community We're very sorry to hear of Norman Nock's passing. He and his wisdom and experience will be sorely missed in the Healey world. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Richard Kahn" Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 11:29 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Major loss to our community > I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist > this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of > his > knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true > gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. > Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. > Rich Kahn > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your > inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 14:29:55 2010 From: Richard Hosmer To: Bob Spidell , Richard Kahn Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 12:36:41 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Major loss to our community I had the great pleasure of talking with Norman several times at the annual UBSCC swap meets at Dixon (Sacramento area) CA, every May. A fine gentleman - he will be missed, that's for sure. Dick Hosmer BT7 Tricarb _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 14:31:55 2010 From: "Dr. B" To: Gary , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 14:00:30 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Norman Nock I want to add my condolences to the Nock family. As a Healey newbie in 1999, I called British Car Specialists and was greeted warmly by Norman Nock. He patiently listened to my "newbie" questions and provided detailed answers (+ some stories of his own) to this stranger. I purchased his Tech Talk at that time and when I received it, he had graciously autographed it under a personal message. I value that conversation and book so very much. Art Braundmeier HBJ8L/34199 Colorado Dick Matson wrote: > David and Sheila; > > I'm so sorry to see the news today. > > There's no way to begin to tally what your Dad has done for everyone and > anyone interested in British cars. > > I'm glad to have met him. > > Sincerely, > > Dick Matson > Cashmere, WA > > > -- Plagiarism is an academic crime, punishable by academic death. ---Tommy Lee Jones as Marshall Sharpe in Man of the House _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 15:31:21 2010 From: "Simon Lachlan" To: "'Jaap Aeckerlin'" Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 21:35:25 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cheap 3rd brake light Jack, I just won one of these on eBay, per your tip. Including postage, it cost me #4.98! Postage from Hong Kong that is, so there may be a teeny weeny worry about quality and longevity. However, at that price, it's worth the gamble!! Thanks for the tip. I'll be interested in your ideas on mounting it. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jaap Aeckerlin Sent: 14 April 2010 10:13 To: Healey forum Subject: [Healeys] Cheap 3rd brake light Guys, I received a reaction from a Canadian lister regarding my query how to mount a 3rd brake light. He informed me that very cheap lights were sold on eBay, so I searched for 24LED 12V CAR REAR LIGHT BRAKE STOP TAIL RED LED BULBS and just bought such a light for 1 dollarcent. Don't ask me how the seller ("keyman.321") survives, and I haven't received the light yet, but at a total cost to me of 7 dollars (shipping is 6.99) there is not much to loose. Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 15:59:29 2010 From: "wpollock@inbox" To: "list" Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:12:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock When I purchased my 100-6 in 1998 it was my first Healey. The following two years I had a number of conversations with Norm over the phone. In hind sight some them was probably things I could have figured out had I taken the time,but I always enjoyed talking with him so why not call. He was always helpful and as long as I ask questions he was ready with the answer. I met him at "Open Roads"in Lake Tahoe and what a gentleman. His knowledge and willness to share this knowledge will be missed. Bill Pollock-CT _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 18:29:30 2010 From: HealeyRick To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:37:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Norman Nock Norman was truly one of the keepers of the flame. Although we never met, I felt like I new him personally from his articles in the club magazines, tech tips and contributions to this list. We spoke by phone a few times ... a true gentleman. My sincere condolences to David and Sheila. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 19:30:27 2010 From: To: Richard Kahn , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:42:03 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Major loss to our community I have never met Norman. However, it was apparent through his frequent contributions to this list that he was truly a lover of the Healey and other marques. His willingness to share his expertise was evident and valuable. He will be missed by us all. Keith ---- Richard Kahn wrote: > I am sorry to report that when I ordered parts form British Car Specialist > this morning, I was informed of the passing of Norman Nock. The depth of his > knowledge and willingness to help everyone will be missed. He was a true > gentleman and his shoes can never be filled. > Dave and family, please know Lynn and my thoughts are with you. > Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 19:31:03 2010 From: Tom Felts To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:45:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Parts Wanted A VERY long shot I know, but would anyone have a set of ANSA resonators (with chrome tips) for a BJ