From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 1 03:23:59 2010 From: Oudesluys To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 10:53:47 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drive shaft alignment Bill, I think you are right. If I read it as you suggest I agree. That is the trouble if English is not your native tongue. Sorry Dave. Kees Oudesluijs NL WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > I think Dave Nock's response is correct, but perhaps a little > confusing. He says that the DRIVING yokes should be at 90 degrees. The > first DRIVING yoke is on the slip joint and transmits torque to the > first DRIVEN yoke. The second DRIVING yoke is on the end of the > driveshaft and transmits torque to the second DRIVEN yoke which is > attached to the differential. Thus the first DRIVEN yoke and the > second DRIVING yoke (being on the ends of the driveshaft) are in the > same plane while the DRIVING yokes are 90 degrees out. > > Bill Lawrence _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 1 07:49:53 2010 From: Derek Job To: Forum Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 15:48:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey 100/6 glass washer bottle Hi Listers. Please see the e mail below. Mike is planning to have some reproduction Trafalgar Glass Bottles made and needs the exact measurement details. If anyone has one of these would they be kind enough to contact me. Ideally a diagram showing the key measurements and some jpg photos would be great. If there are any listers who would be interested in acquiring one of the reproductions, please contact me. cheers Derek www,healeysix.net ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Michael Davis Date: Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 12:06 PM Subject: Healey 100/6 glass washer bottle To: derek.c.job@gmail.com The oldest chestnut on the 100/6 most wanted list ! Derek - you have great pictures of both the bottle and the Trafalgar top on www.healeysix.net, and as you know, these are like hen's teeth to find, so..... Living in a small village in the South of France, we have a local glass blower who can make most things and has looked at your photos and pronounced it as "pas un problem" including the "32" (fl oz ?) and texturing of the base etc. Being in the aircraft overhaul business, we can engrave pretty much anything and Trafalgar top and logo etc present no problem. I do not intend to go into business making reproduction Healey parts, but Alphonse the glass blower is happy to make a couple of dozen, thus I thought I would commission that small number, probably give them to Murray Scott Nelson who is rebuilding my Longbridge BN4 100/6 (42754) but I do not have an original to get the working dimensions from. I am told they were 8.5" high and 3.75" in diameter, but I would be most grateful, if you have access to the "jam jar" if you could be very kind and get me the exact dimensions. Unless of course you know I can get an original bottle, in which case I would owe you the price and several glass bottles of exceeding good local wine ! Very much look forward to hearing from you, Kind regards Mike Davis * Midair S.A.* * Member of ISTAT Charmettes 9 - CP 6443. Lausanne 1002 CH Tel +33 4 9092 6040 Fax +33 4 9092 6045 email mhd@midairsa.com www.midairsa.com * ** "Mas Rouilli" Petite Routes des Baux St Rimy de Provence France 13210 Tel +33 4 9092 6040 Fax +33 4 9092 6045 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/tiff which had a name of pastedGraphic.tiff] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 1 19:51:38 2010 From: john close To: Healeys Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 18:41:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] My BN6 Hi Ladies & Gents - It's time to sell my BN6. You may have seen it at shows if you're a Southern Californian, or you may have seen it on the cover of the April '07 edition of Healey Marque. I will make it available to Listers first, but I have no idea as to it's worth. Any advice out there? Please let me know. Thanks - JRC _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 1 22:07:51 2010 From: "Mike Brouillette" To: Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 23:46:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone looking for a Barbie Healey for their collection? Just noticed this at a local auction that takes internet bids: http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/showitem.cgi?catid=11960&itemid=3 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 08:11:11 2010 From: warthodson@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 02 May 2010 09:41:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres I have used Dunlop 550L-15 racing tyres on a vintage sports racer for years & am curious about the pros & cons of using them on the street on a replica rally car (BJ8). I believe their dimensions are appropriate, they are treaded, they are not a very soft compound by racing standards & I think they would look very good on street car. I know the tires say for racing only, but I haven't been able to find out why, yet. FWIW, they are a bias ply tire. Also, they are expensive, but I am more interested in technical reasons for or against using them on the street. Thanks, Gary Hodson _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 11:33:18 2010 From: HealeyRick To: healeys@autox.team.net, warthodson@aol.com Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 10:25:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres Gary, Usual reasons for not running a race tire on the street are thinner sidewalls that won't hold up to being curbed, softer compounds leading to quick tread wear and lack of rain grip. The Dunlop vintage tires look a lot like a road tire, so all the above might not apply. Maybe you could call Sasco Sports for an opinion, but my guess is liability issues will prevent them from telling you it's ok. Speaking of liability, get in an accident with non DOT approved tires on your car, a personal injury lawyer will be licking his chops. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sun, 5/2/10, warthodson@aol.com wrote: From: warthodson@aol.com Subject: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sunday, May 2, 2010, 9:41 AM I have used Dunlop 550L-15 racing tyres on a vintage sports racer for years & am curious about the pros & cons of using them on the street on a replica rally car (BJ8). I believe their dimensions are appropriate, they are treaded, they are not a very soft compound by racing standards & I think they would look very good on street car. I know the tires say for racing only, but I haven't been able to find out why, yet. FWIW, they are a bias ply tire. Also, they are expensive, but I am more interested in technical reasons for or against using them on the street. Thanks, Gary Hodson _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 12:35:08 2010 From: "Rich C" To: , Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 14:26:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres Can't comment on the Dunlop racing tires, but I have now driven 3 different Healeys on new stock Dunlop Road Speed RS5 Tires, the correct 5.90 x 15" as per original and absolutely love their smooth sure vintage (bias ply) feel and handling. The steering is light, smooth and accurate, throttle to road grip is very responsive and predictable with no surprises, and of course the look is right, gaining a lot of road clearance in the process. These were the best tires when the cars were new and it really completes the period Healey experience. Of course these tires are expensive and you can expect a mileage life of only about 18,000 miles, but these days most of us will out time the tire life (7 years) before we out drive them. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 9:41 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres > I have used Dunlop 550L-15 racing tyres on a vintage sports racer for > years & > am curious about the pros & cons of using them on the street on a replica > rally car (BJ8). I believe their dimensions are appropriate, they are > treaded, > they are not a very soft compound by racing standards & I think they would > look very good on street car. I know the tires say for racing only, but I > haven't been able to find out why, yet. FWIW, they are a bias ply tire. > Also, > they are expensive, but I am more interested in technical reasons for or > against using them on the street. > Thanks, > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 12:51:40 2010 From: To: Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 20:51:23 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres I can only step in what Rich wrote. I also love the Dunlop Road Speed RS5 Tires and can only recommend them. The only factors against them is the price and their specific handling on wed roads. But if you know them, they make great fun on dry and wet. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rich C Gesendet: Sonntag, 2. Mai 2010 20:27 An: healeys@autox.team.net; warthodson@aol.com Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres Can't comment on the Dunlop racing tires, but I have now driven 3 different Healeys on new stock Dunlop Road Speed RS5 Tires, the correct 5.90 x 15" as per original and absolutely love their smooth sure vintage (bias ply) feel and handling. The steering is light, smooth and accurate, throttle to road grip is very responsive and predictable with no surprises, and of course the look is right, gaining a lot of road clearance in the process. These were the best tires when the cars were new and it really completes the period Healey experience. Of course these tires are expensive and you can expect a mileage life of only about 18,000 miles, but these days most of us will out time the tire life (7 years) before we out drive them. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 9:41 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres > I have used Dunlop 550L-15 racing tyres on a vintage sports racer for > years & am curious about the pros & cons of using them on the street > on a replica rally car (BJ8). I believe their dimensions are > appropriate, they are treaded, they are not a very soft compound by > racing standards & I think they would look very good on street car. I > know the tires say for racing only, but I haven't been able to find > out why, yet. FWIW, they are a bias ply tire. > Also, > they are expensive, but I am more interested in technical reasons for > or against using them on the street. > Thanks, > Gary Hodson > ______ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 15:36:23 2010 From: Jess Power To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 16:29:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating 1954 100/4 BN1 new thermostat,new water pump,aftermarket electric fan,radiater boiled and tested,exhaust manifold jethotted.This car is still running hot and after a short time starts to kill.The carbs were synched and timing set.Air/fuel mixture adjusted.What is the next step? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 15:53:05 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Jess Power'" , "'healeylist'" Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 15:53:52 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating Ignition timing. ~6-10 degrees initial @600 RPM; 35-38 degrees max at ~3000 rpm; Point gap .015" dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jess Power Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 3:30 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating 1954 100/4 BN1 new thermostat,new water pump,aftermarket electric fan,radiater boiled and tested,exhaust manifold jethotted.This car is still running hot and after a short time starts to kill.The carbs were synched and timing set.Air/fuel mixture adjusted.What is the next step? _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 17:05:10 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: warthodson@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 06:55:23 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres I think the biggest danger with bias ply tires is when they go, they tend to blow out - dangerous on the highway. I think modern radials do a much better job of keeping it together when failing. Better for your car and much safer..... On 5/2/10, warthodson@aol.com wrote: > I have used Dunlop 550L-15 racing tyres on a vintage sports racer for years > & > am curious about the pros & cons of using them on the street on a replica > rally car (BJ8). I believe their dimensions are appropriate, they are > treaded, > they are not a very soft compound by racing standards & I think they would > look very good on street car. I know the tires say for racing only, but I > haven't been able to find out why, yet. FWIW, they are a bias ply tire. > Also, > they are expensive, but I am more interested in technical reasons for or > against using them on the street. > Thanks, > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 17:19:50 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Jess Power , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 07:17:01 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating Jess - The 100 motor shoud run cool, even with the stock fan setup. If it is running hot, something is wrong. First check your temp guage (may be reading hot) and then if that's ok I'd reccommend power back flushing the block. If the block has too much scale, it will run hot. Jet hot coating the exhaust manifold is a good idea aslo. It keeps under bonnet temps down. Also check timing... Alan On 5/3/10, Jess Power wrote: > 1954 100/4 BN1 new thermostat,new water pump,aftermarket electric > fan,radiater boiled and tested,exhaust manifold jethotted.This car is > still running hot and after a short time starts to kill.The carbs were > synched and timing set.Air/fuel mixture adjusted.What is the next step? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 18:20:39 2010 From: wilkmanracing@aol.com To: frogeye@porterscustom.com, jessmd1@comcast.net, Date: Sun, 02 May 2010 20:18:01 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating Another next step would be to check for a blown head gasket. You can check your radiator for exhaust gasses with one of the blue liquid test kits. Napa sells them. Another sign would be water in your oil. You may see this on the dip stick or you can drain the oil and see if any water is in there. Bill Wilkman BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter To: 'Jess Power' ; 'healeylist' Sent: Sun, May 2, 2010 2:53 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating Ignition timing. ~6-10 degrees initial @600 RPM; 35-38 degrees max at ~3000 rpm; Point gap .015" dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jess Power Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 3:30 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating 1954 100/4 BN1 new thermostat,new water pump,aftermarket electric fan,radiater boiled and tested,exhaust manifold jethotted.This car is still running hot and after a short time starts to kill.The carbs were synched and timing set.Air/fuel mixture adjusted.What is the next step? _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 18:49:59 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 02 May 2010 19:48:09 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres Rich, whilst I concur with you 100%...... <> Your best line is above [tho I stick with 6 years -:)] BUT [and sorry], Rick's comment trumps yours !!! -:) !! << Speaking of liability, get in an accident with non DOT approved tires on your car, a personal injury lawyer will be licking his chops. >> GOSPEL, IMHO !!!! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 19:20:00 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" , Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 21:13:40 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres Ed, Read carefully, I'm not talking about the Dunlop racing tires being used on the street...I'm talking about the RS5 Road Speeds which certainly are DOT approved! Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 8:48 PM To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres > Rich, whilst I concur with you 100%...... > > < only about 18,000 miles, but these days most of us will out time the tire > life (7 years) before we out drive them. >> > > > Your best line is above [tho I stick with 6 years -:)] BUT [and > sorry], Rick's comment trumps yours !!! -:) !! > > << Speaking of liability, get in an accident with non DOT approved tires > on > your car, a personal injury lawyer will be licking his chops. >> > > > GOSPEL, IMHO !!!! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 19:51:03 2010 From: F Ronald Rader To: Healey List Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 18:37:16 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating May i suggest that the radiator be removed and the coils be replaced with modern ones and add an extra row. you can use the same top and bottom. works in all of my cars. i just remove three rows and added four in my XK 150 and so far runs nice and cold with out a fan change. my BJ8 has had an extra row for 8 years and runs cool even when in Bakersfield at 113 degrees. ron rader 1965 BJ8 On Sun, May 2, 2010 at 5:18 PM, wrote: > > Another next step would be to check for a blown head gasket. You can check > your radiator for exhaust gasses with one of the blue liquid test kits. Napa > sells them. Another sign would be water in your oil. You may see this on the > dip stick or you can drain the oil and see if any water is in there. > > Bill Wilkman > BT7 > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dave Porter > To: 'Jess Power' ; 'healeylist' > Sent: Sun, May 2, 2010 2:53 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating > > > Ignition timing. ~6-10 degrees initial @600 RPM; 35-38 degrees max at ~3000 > rpm; Point gap .015" > dave > > frogeye@porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > blog: http://porterbikes.com/ > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Jess Power > Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 3:30 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating > > 1954 100/4 BN1 new thermostat,new water pump,aftermarket electric > fan,radiater boiled and tested,exhaust manifold jethotted.This car is > still running hot and after a short time starts to kill.The carbs were > synched and timing set.Air/fuel mixture adjusted.What is the next step? > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wilkmanracing@aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 19:51:56 2010 From: F Ronald Rader To: Healey List Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 18:40:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] overheating May I suggest that the radiator be removed and the coils be replaced with modern ones and add an extra row. you can use the same top and bottom. works in all of my cars. i just remove three rows and added four in my XK 150 and so far runs nice and cold with out a fan change. my BJ8 has had an extra row for 8 years and runs cool even when in Bakersfield at 113 degrees. ron rader 1965 BJ8 1954 100/4 BN1 new thermostat,new water pump,aftermarket electric > fan,radiater boiled and tested, _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 20:07:56 2010 From: gilbert gauthier To: Healey List Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 22:01:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100M sold at Monaco For those one interested at the market in Europe , you can have a look at : http://www.sportscardigest.com/sporting-classics-of-monaco-auction-results-rm-auctions/ Nice car were sold at RM this week end. The M went for 140K Gilbert _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 20:36:11 2010 From: richard mayor To: , healeys Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 02:29:20 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres Gary, I'm going to wade in here with my thoughts on bias ply racing tires. I have used Goodyear Blue Streaks and Hoosier Vintage TDs on my Healey for many many years. First, I think the sidewall strength is not up to DOT safety standards. If I am wrong, someone on this list will quickly let us know. Secondly, racing tires are just made differently than street tires. Here's my one and only experience with using race rubber on the street. For a couple of years I raced a 1968 AMC Javelin (SCCA "A" Sedan). One time I decided to drive to the track on my race rubber. I live in Portland, Oregon about 10 miles from Portland International Raceway - about 8 miles of which is freeway driving. I had big Hoosier bias ply racing rubber. Every time I hit a groove or whatever, the tire wanted to go that way. This does not make for a good driving experience on the street. Hope this helps with your question. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 09:41:24 -0400 > From: warthodson@aol.com > Subject: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres > > I have used Dunlop 550L-15 racing tyres on a vintage sports racer for years & > am curious about the pros & cons of using them on the street on a replica > rally car (BJ8). I believe their dimensions are appropriate, they are treaded, > they are not a very soft compound by racing standards & I think they would > look very good on street car. I know the tires say for racing only, but I > haven't been able to find out why, yet. FWIW, they are a bias ply tire. Also, > they are expensive, but I am more interested in technical reasons for or > against using them on the street. > Thanks, > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 20:38:01 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: gilbert gauthier Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 10:34:05 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M sold at Monaco wow, impressive prices on all that stuff! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 10:01 AM, gilbert gauthier wrote: > For those one interested at the market in Europe , you can have a look > at : > > > http://www.sportscardigest.com/sporting-classics-of-monaco-auction-results-rm-auctions/ > > Nice car were sold at RM this week end. > > The M went for 140K > > > Gilbert > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 20:51:13 2010 From: Jackson Krall To: healeys@autox.team.net, Gaagten Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 19:48:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] NY I've been thinking about this for a few days and have decided that having a beer with me at McSorleys(just a couple blocks away)is about as close to Healeydom as one is likely to get in Manhattan. My LBC friend, Wes Henderson can tell stories about the gang in Brooklyn that specialized in stealing Healeys back in the 60's. We could go up to the now defunkt Tavern On The Green in Central Park and view the spot where those lovely photos of DMH and his !00 were taken way back when, but the Austin facility on Webster Ave in Da Bronx, that is listed in the back of the 100 Drivers Manual, is long gone and replaced by an apartment building. So, that leaves SU guru Joe Curto out in Queens, not far from LaGuardia Airport, as a main point of interest and Gullwing Motors, also in Queens, could be interesting. In the 35 yrs I've lived here I've seen enough Healeys in Manhattan to count on one hand missing some fingers. Best JK NYC 212 473 1315 --- On Fri, 4/30/10, Gaagten wrote: Is there anything to > see/do for a > Healey freak here? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jackson_krall@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 21:36:46 2010 From: "PG" To: "'Austin Healey'" Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 20:11:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop Hi Listers, I'm fitting a hardtop on my car...was told by Cape that the front windshield may need to be tilted back to fit... Anybody done this or know how to do it? Thanks Paul _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 21:52:34 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 23:49:52 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires I race an MGA on the track using 5.50 x 15 Hoosier vintage TD bias-plies. My Healey has 165 x 70R15 Kelly Metrics (radials) for the street. When I restored my 100M, I drove it for awhile (to and from concours) with the Dunlop 5.90 x 15 Roadspeed tires, and have a friend who has only ever had the Dunlop Roadspeeds on his XK140. No way would I use the track tires on the street -- they require attention every second -- but we only run for 20 minutes -- and frankly, the Roadspeeds aren't a whole lot more predictable, but they are a lot of fun and definitely give you the vintage feeling. For my money, I'll continue to mount the highest profile 165 or 175x15 radials I can find for the Healey, for the simple reason that they're a lot more predictable and a lot more forgiving in highway driving. Also, they're cheaper, when I'm going to have to replace them every five years as the tire compound ages. But for short distances -- city and show -- the Roadspeeds are a neat look. Cheers Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 00:17:53 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Jess Power Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 07:43:20 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating Boiling/cleaning the radiator is not very effective and usually does not help that much if it was partially blocked by scale. Have the core renewed and fit a core with a larger capacity if you live in a hot climate. Kees Oudesluijs NL Jess Power wrote: > 1954 100/4 BN1 new thermostat,new water pump,aftermarket electric > fan,radiater boiled and tested,exhaust manifold jethotted.This car is > still running hot and after a short time starts to kill.The carbs were > synched and timing set.Air/fuel mixture adjusted.What is the next step? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2849 - datum van uitgifte: 05/02/10 08:27:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 01:23:36 2010 From: To: Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 09:13:32 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating Dave, If its not the head gasket, the 100 cylinder heads are prone to crack. If there are cracks in the cylinder head the symptoms are like yours - overheating. I have three of these heads lying in the loft. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Dave Porter Gesendet: Sonntag, 2. Mai 2010 23:54 An: 'Jess Power'; 'healeylist' Betreff: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating Ignition timing. ~6-10 degrees initial @600 RPM; 35-38 degrees max at ~3000 rpm; Point gap .015" dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jess Power Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 3:30 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating 1954 100/4 BN1 new thermostat,new water pump,aftermarket electric fan,radiater boiled and tested,exhaust manifold jethotted.This car is still running hot and after a short time starts to kill.The carbs were synched and timing set.Air/fuel mixture adjusted.What is the next step? ___________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 02:55:49 2010 From: bighealey3k@aim.com To: britishcars@shaw.ca, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 04:33:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop What model and year of car? -----Original Message----- From: PG To: 'Austin Healey' Sent: Sun, May 2, 2010 11:11 pm Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop Hi Listers, I'm fitting a hardtop on my car...was told by Cape that the front windshield ay need to be tilted back to fit... Anybody done this or know how to do it? Thanks Paul ______________________________________________ ealeys@autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 06:07:39 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Jess Power'" , "'healeylist'" Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 05:56:04 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating If the engine is over heating then there is an underlying reason. Brakes dragging, no or low compression, miss firing, bad water pump, bad radiator core, defective thermostat,etc. Something is making the engine work extra hard or something is out of spec. Check the radiator core: remove the top and bottom hoses. Plug the bottom inlet, fill the radiator with water, remove the plug, if it empties in 10-12 seconds its fine. dp frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 06:37:21 2010 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: "'Austin Healey'" Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 08:30:55 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop Paul, Not to put you off, but be prepared for a struggle fitting the hardtop. I have had a really hard time getting mine to fit anything close to acceptable. However, I am told it is highly variable, and they fit well on some cars and not on others. I am also told that when fitted by the factory (as when a car was ordered new with a hardtop option), the front edge of the fiberglass was trimmed to fit each car before the front rail was installed. Tops bought over the counter were a generic length, a sort of "one size fits all" approach. However, I cannot confirm that. My top seemed too "long", as the distance from the front rail to the rear aluminium trim was greater than the distance from the top of the windshield to the rear cockpit surround trim. I had to move the windshield forward and it took some doing. You can't just tip it as the base of the windshield pillars have to sit firmly on the rubber pads. The holes for the three bolts that hold the bottom of the windshield posts, as well as the front one that takes the chrome Phillips screw, are over-sized to facilitate some adjustment, but I had to enlarge all of mine further. You need to do a trial fitting and determine if the windshield has to move forward or backward to accommodate the top. Then loosen all the bolts and move the windshield accordingly. I actually went a step further and made an adjustment to move the whole top backwards. This involves removing the inside quarter panel trim on the hardtop and removing the angle brackets that hold the locating pin on each side of the top. I then had new angle brackets made up with the pin moved forward 3/16", which in effect moves the top back the same amount. A lot of work for 3/16", but I needed to get everything I could as I could not get the windshield forward any further. The rear aluminum trim on the hardtop may extend past the aluminum cockpit trim more than you expect. The rubber seal around the rear edge of the hardtop is quite wide to accommodate the variability in the cars, and as long as the rubber seal sits on the cockpit rail, you are OK, do not worry about the overhang. Lastly, be sure to check the sidescreen and softtop fitment as well. The position of the top, windshield and sidescreens are one big compromise and you have to noodle everything around until you get the best overall fit. Mentally set aside a few days to do this, it took me weeks of weekend work. I found this job required much patience and I had to reduce my expectations of a perfect fit. I know this is highly variable and perhaps you will be luckier than me. On the plus side, the top fits quite well now and looks fabulous. It is really a different experience and extends the driving season for us in the GWN. Bonne chance, Mirek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 06:38:13 2010 From: "Mirek Sharp" To: "'Austin Healey'" Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 08:34:21 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop Paul, of course I should have asked what model too. My experience was with a 1959 BT7. That long explanation is useless if you have a convertible! The tops are all date stamped and my top is just 5 months off the build date of my car. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 06:53:49 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "PG" , "'Austin Healey'" Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 08:50:28 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop Paul, I'd like to assume you're talking about a 6 cylinder roadster??? It's going to be a struggle and a balancing act between the angle of the side screens to the windscreen angle, to the fitting of the hardtop, to the sealing around the hardtop perimeter. Some will almost just drop onto the car (but not often) while most will be a struggle with cheating that will occur that only you will know about! Have fun! Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "PG" Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 11:11 PM To: "'Austin Healey'" Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop > Hi Listers, > > > > I'm fitting a hardtop on my car...was told by Cape that the front > windshield > may need to be tilted back to fit... > > > > Anybody done this or know how to do it? > > > > Thanks > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 08:41:43 2010 From: To: 'Jess Power' , Dave Porter Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 14:30:41 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating Jess, as others have stated, there can be a lot of causes for over heating, more details would help the online diagnosis, how quickly does it overheat?, how high doesw the temp guage go?, was the motor recently rebuilt? For example, if the temp pretty much skyrockets up after you start the car it may be blockage or a stuck thermostat, if slowly or only after a long time when idling more likely a radiator capacity issue, if while moving maybe something dragging or putting undue load on the motor. Good Luck, Greg _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 09:34:27 2010 From: "PG" To: "'Rich C'" , "'Austin Healey'" Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 08:17:49 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop Sorry for the conversion....the car is a 1967 BJ8. All inputs are welcome. Paul -----Original Message----- From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net] Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 5:50 AM To: PG; 'Austin Healey' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop Paul, I'd like to assume you're talking about a 6 cylinder roadster??? It's going to be a struggle and a balancing act between the angle of the side screens to the windscreen angle, to the fitting of the hardtop, to the sealing around the hardtop perimeter. Some will almost just drop onto the car (but not often) while most will be a struggle with cheating that will occur that only you will know about! Have fun! Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "PG" Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 11:11 PM To: "'Austin Healey'" Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop > Hi Listers, > > > > I'm fitting a hardtop on my car...was told by Cape that the front > windshield > may need to be tilted back to fit... > > > > Anybody done this or know how to do it? > > > > Thanks > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 10:54:15 2010 From: "Reinhart Rosner \(aon\)" To: , "'Jess Power'" , "'Dave Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 18:30:26 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 BN1 overheating Jess, I had a lot of problems with overheating on my 100 too, which I have now for more than 10 years. Approximately 8 years without any problem. Even not when being stuck in a traffic jam with 30 deg C outside or driving up the mountains in summer. The temperature never went over 180 deg F (app 85 deg C). Maybe the louvred bonnet did help too. All of a sudden overheating problems started. The engine went that hot, that it began to sputter and later quit working and only could be restarted after letting it cool down. This happened in slow traffic and in the mountains. I checked and fixed one thing after the other: carbs, ignition, radiator, head and exhaust gasket, water pump, thermostat, ... I even exchanged the complete exhaust system. Instead of an electric fan I put a six blade fan in, which did help a little, but did not cure the problem. During the last drive I heard some noise and we found out that it came from a main bearing which destroyed the crankshaft. And while the engine is out we could search for the real cause for the overheating and found out that it came from the rocker gear. A good point from Dave was that something is making the engine work extra hard or something is out of spec. In my engine this was caused by the rocker. But as others stated begin with the easy things. Good luck Reinhart Reinhart Rosner 55 100 BN 1 Vienna - Austria _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/aon.912808691@aon.at _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 11:29:02 2010 From: Charlie Baldwin To: spitlist@cox.net, brad.kahler@141.com, fot@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 13:12:04 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop Mirek & Paul, Wow, I'm amazed that things could be that different from one car/hardtop combination to another. My 1960 BT7 with only 14,000 miles from new was purchased with a hardtop by the original owner. The second owner who we bought the car from had never put the hardtop on the car, but since we took the car to fall Hershey to put in the car corral for sale, the easiest way to display the hardtop was on the car. It went right on with no problem, fitting well all around front and back. We did have some fitting issues when putting the side curtains on as did the original owner apparently from the scratches on the aluminum, but after loosening the fasteners on the curtains after they were in place on the car and a minor bit of fiddling, all fits quite well now with no interference anywhere. Now the doors open and close just like a typical family sedan with absolutely nothing bashing into anything. Someone with more knowledge about how things went at the dealer when the cars were new may dispute this, but the way I imagine it when a customer wanted a hardtop, one was selected out of a small inventory or ordered in and paired with the car. I suspect that the dealers, especially in Lancaster, PA, didn't have a large number of hardtops in stock to draw from to find one that fit well. Perhaps it was just luck in this case. Charlie Mirek Sharp wrote: Paul, Not to put you off, but be prepared for a struggle fitting the hardtop. I have had a really hard time getting mine to fit anything close to acceptable. However, I am told it is highly variable, and they fit well on some cars and not on others. I [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 11:43:44 2010 From: Jack Feldman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 12:18:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey vs. MGC engine My son has the MGC in the shop and they claim that the car is sluggish because it doesn't perform like a Healey. The recommendation is to replace the distributor. I have two questions. One, what could go wrong with a distributor that would make the car sluggish I thought the main problem was wear in the shaft that makes the timing impossible to set. What else could it be? The second is more of a statement. From what I have read the MGC engine was a bastardized version of the Healey engine. Heavier and bigger. That means the car *would* be sluggish compared to a Healey. There are no points of comparison as far as power and handling as far as I'm concerned. I'm surprised we didn't hear of Donald Healey rolling on the ground with uncontrollable laughter when it was suggested to badge C as a Healey. To sum up: What could go wrong with the distributor, and am I correct in stating the C would seem sluggish compared to a Healey? Hopefully there are some dual C and 3000 owners on the list that can verify my experience. Thanks as usual, Jack _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 11:57:14 2010 From: Charlie Baldwin To: healey list Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 13:30:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] W58 on Ebay For those of you near Versailles, KY, check out item #190393558277 on Ebay for a Supra W58 transmission. Buy it now is $155, but reserve could be less or if you are the high bidder, he may deal. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 12:13:58 2010 From: I Erbs To: Jack Feldman Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 10:50:49 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey vs. MGC engine vacuum advance could be frozen, springs in top plate could be weak could need a tune up. filthy carbs. bad gas, poor timing, mal-adjusted.burnt valves, old tired engine or as stated the car is a pig IMHO. no insult intended to those of you who own one as well as a Healey On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 10:18 AM, Jack Feldman wrote: > My son has the MGC in the shop and they claim that the car is sluggish > because it doesn't perform like a Healey. The recommendation is to replace > the distributor. > > I have two questions. One, what could go wrong with a distributor that > would > make the car sluggish I thought the main problem was wear in the shaft > that > makes the timing impossible to set. What else could it be? > > The second is more of a statement. From what I have read the MGC engine was > a bastardized version of the Healey engine. Heavier and bigger. That means > the car *would* be sluggish compared to a Healey. There are no points of > comparison as far as power and handling as far as I'm concerned. I'm > surprised we didn't hear of Donald Healey rolling on the ground with > uncontrollable laughter when it was suggested to badge C as a Healey. > > To sum up: What could go wrong with the distributor, and am I correct in > stating the C would seem sluggish compared to a Healey? > > Hopefully there are some dual C and 3000 owners on the list that can verify > my experience. > > Thanks as usual, > > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 12:37:36 2010 From: "Mal Bruce" To: "Jack Feldman" , Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 14:09:01 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey vs. MGC engine Hi Jack, As the past owner of 3 "C"s and a few Healeys in good condition I would agree that the engine characteristics are quite different. The "C" has 7 main bearings and doesn't breath too well, consequently it doesn't like to rev quickly, definitely different to a Healey. With the exception of the bore and srtoke there is little in common, the pistons can be interchanged but that is about it I believe. Mal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" To: Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 1:18 PM Subject: [Healeys] Healey vs. MGC engine > My son has the MGC in the shop and they claim that the car is sluggish > because it doesn't perform like a Healey. The recommendation is to > replace > the distributor. > > I have two questions. One, what could go wrong with a distributor that > would > make the car sluggish I thought the main problem was wear in the shaft > that > makes the timing impossible to set. What else could it be? > > The second is more of a statement. From what I have read the MGC engine > was > a bastardized version of the Healey engine. Heavier and bigger. That means > the car *would* be sluggish compared to a Healey. There are no points of > comparison as far as power and handling as far as I'm concerned. I'm > surprised we didn't hear of Donald Healey rolling on the ground with > uncontrollable laughter when it was suggested to badge C as a Healey. > > To sum up: What could go wrong with the distributor, and am I correct in > stating the C would seem sluggish compared to a Healey? > > Hopefully there are some dual C and 3000 owners on the list that can > verify > my experience. > > Thanks as usual, > > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbruce6@cogeco.ca _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 13:47:18 2010 From: "bispmotala" To: "'Jack Feldman'" , Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 21:13:25 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey vs. MGC engine I am the owner of both an Austin Healey mk3 and a MGC. They are different. First the MGC has a seven bearing crankshaft which makes for more winding and friction losses. Secondly it was the first version of a new engine and the mk3 the last and that benefitted from years of development. The first 100/6 engine was not very responsive either. The Austin Healey engine is heavier than the MGC engine. Thirdly the MGC is higher geared as if a non od Austin Healey is fitted with an od box, which mine is. And don't blame the distributor itself, it needs retiming which I had done by MG Motorsport in the UK and that transformed the middle speed torque. No financial interest and all that. Fix the MGC properly and you end up with a very nice touring car. Good luck Sven Sweden -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- Fren: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Fvr Jack Feldman Skickat: den 3 maj 2010 19:19 Till: healeys@autox.team.net Dmne: [Healeys] Healey vs. MGC engine My son has the MGC in the shop and they claim that the car is sluggish because it doesn't perform like a Healey. The recommendation is to replace the distributor. I have two questions. One, what could go wrong with a distributor that would make the car sluggish I thought the main problem was wear in the shaft that makes the timing impossible to set. What else could it be? The second is more of a statement. From what I have read the MGC engine was a bastardized version of the Healey engine. Heavier and bigger. That means the car *would* be sluggish compared to a Healey. There are no points of comparison as far as power and handling as far as I'm concerned. I'm surprised we didn't hear of Donald Healey rolling on the ground with uncontrollable laughter when it was suggested to badge C as a Healey. To sum up: What could go wrong with the distributor, and am I correct in stating the C would seem sluggish compared to a Healey? Hopefully there are some dual C and 3000 owners on the list that can verify my experience. Thanks as usual, Jack _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bispmotala@hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 13:49:34 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Jack Feldman Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 21:20:08 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey vs. MGC engine Things to go wrong in the distributor: weights stuck because of lack of lubrication Weakening springs causing early advance Leaking diafragm of the vacuum unit wear in shaft causing unevenly distibuted ignition I always thought that the AH3000 and MGC3000 engines were different beasts altogether. The MGC handled rather badly being very nose heavy and extremely understeered Kees Oudesluijs NL Jack Feldman wrote: > My son has the MGC in the shop and they claim that the car is sluggish > because it doesn't perform like a Healey. The recommendation is to replace > the distributor. > > I have two questions. One, what could go wrong with a distributor that would > make the car sluggish I thought the main problem was wear in the shaft that > makes the timing impossible to set. What else could it be? > > The second is more of a statement. From what I have read the MGC engine was > a bastardized version of the Healey engine. Heavier and bigger. That means > the car *would* be sluggish compared to a Healey. There are no points of > comparison as far as power and handling as far as I'm concerned. I'm > surprised we didn't hear of Donald Healey rolling on the ground with > uncontrollable laughter when it was suggested to badge C as a Healey. > > To sum up: What could go wrong with the distributor, and am I correct in > stating the C would seem sluggish compared to a Healey? > > Hopefully there are some dual C and 3000 owners on the list that can verify > my experience. > > Thanks as usual, > > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2851 - datum van uitgifte: 05/03/10 08:27:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 14:40:49 2010 From: healeyguy@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 16:22:19 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop Paul There is going to a big problem if you have to start moving your windshield around on a BJ8. The vent window fit is hard enough without throwing the hard to into the mix. I would be having second thoughts about the new top at this point...... Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: PG To: 'Rich C' ; 'Austin Healey' Sent: Mon, May 3, 2010 5:17 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop Sorry for the conversion....the car is a 1967 BJ8. All inputs are welcome. Paul -----Original Message----- From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net] Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 5:50 AM To: PG; 'Austin Healey' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop Paul, I'd like to assume you're talking about a 6 cylinder roadster??? It's going to be a struggle and a balancing act between the angle of the side screens to the windscreen angle, to the fitting of the hardtop, to the sealing around the hardtop perimeter. Some will almost just drop onto the car (but not often) while most will be a struggle with cheating that will occur that only you will know about! Have fun! Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "PG" Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 11:11 PM To: "'Austin Healey'" Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Adjustment & Hardtop > Hi Listers, > > > > I'm fitting a hardtop on my car...was told by Cape that the front > windshield > may need to be tilted back to fit... > > > > Anybody done this or know how to do it? > > > > Thanks > > Paul > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 19:11:39 2010 From: Randy Hicks To: Healey List Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 20:58:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dealer 100 M kit - carbs Is there any info out there that indicates exactly what carbs would have been included with the period dealer 100 M kit? AUC 6040 X were on most factory 100 M's but is that what was in the "dealer kits"? TIA Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M '55 BN1 Le Mans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 20:11:28 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Randy Hicks Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 18:47:18 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dealer 100 M kit - carbs Randy, Most maybe but definitely not all. The important number was the hand scribed (etched) number below that on the carburetor body, i.e., 6047 and 6053. Too many folks get wrapped around the axle about the carburetor being AUC 6040 X and that's just not the case, there are plenty of factory 100M cars with AUC 6040 AA on the carburetor bodies. Once again the etched numbers are what's important. Typically TR3 Carburetors are AUC 6040 AC bodies, as these can be converted to 100M specifications, I'm doing a set as I write this with original 100M manifolds. NOT so with Jaguar XK140 H6 carburetors, just ask me and I'll tell you. With a little work only the most decerning eye will be able to tell the difference, but there's no attempt to deceive on my part. Cheers, Curt On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 5:58 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > Is there any info out there that indicates exactly what carbs would have > been > included with the period dealer 100 M kit? > > AUC 6040 X were on most factory 100 M's but is that what was in the "dealer > kits"? > > TIA > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > www.austinhealey100m.com > '56 100 M > '55 BN1 Le Mans > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 20:45:37 2010 From: Randy Hicks To: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 22:20:23 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dealer 100 M kit - carbs Hi Curt, I don't disagree with any of that. But my question is still, what were the carbs that were supplied as part of the Le Mans kit? 6040 X or 6040 AA ? And (now) were they etched with the 6047 & 6053? :-) Someone mentioned AUC 739 ??? Randy On May 3, 2010, at 9:47 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Randy, > > Most maybe but definitely not all. The important number was the hand scribed (etched) number below that on the carburetor body, i.e., 6047 and 6053. > > Too many folks get wrapped around the axle about the carburetor being AUC 6040 X and that's just not the case, there are plenty of factory 100M cars with AUC 6040 AA on the carburetor bodies. Once again the etched numbers are what's important. > > Typically TR3 Carburetors are AUC 6040 AC bodies, as these can be converted to 100M specifications, I'm doing a set as I write this with original 100M manifolds. NOT so with Jaguar XK140 H6 carburetors, just ask me and I'll tell you. With a little work only the most decerning eye will be able to tell the difference, but there's no attempt to deceive on my part. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 5:58 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > Is there any info out there that indicates exactly what carbs would have been > included with the period dealer 100 M kit? > > AUC 6040 X were on most factory 100 M's but is that what was in the "dealer > kits"? > > TIA > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > www.austinhealey100m.com > '56 100 M > '55 BN1 Le Mans > '62 BN7 MkII > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 21:17:24 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Randy Hicks Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 19:54:06 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dealer 100 M kit - carbs Randy, The 6047 and 5053 are what makes the carburetors 100M versions so I don't see getting around this. Once again, IT DOESN'T MATTER what the AUC 6040 suffix is, if the carbs were produced during the period then they should/would have been etched accordingly. Now all we need is definitive proof. Curt On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 7:20 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > Hi Curt, I don't disagree with any of that. But my question is still, what > were the carbs that were supplied as part of the Le Mans kit? > > 6040 X or 6040 AA ? And (now) were they etched with the 6047 & 6053? :-) > > Someone mentioned AUC 739 ??? > > Randy > > > On May 3, 2010, at 9:47 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > > Randy, > > Most maybe but definitely not all. The important number was the hand > scribed (etched) number below that on the carburetor body, i.e., 6047 and > 6053. > > Too many folks get wrapped around the axle about the carburetor being AUC > 6040 X and that's just not the case, there are plenty of factory 100M cars > with AUC 6040 AA on the carburetor bodies. Once again the etched numbers > are what's important. > > Typically TR3 Carburetors are AUC 6040 AC bodies, as these can be converted > to 100M specifications, I'm doing a set as I write this with original 100M > manifolds. NOT so with Jaguar XK140 H6 carburetors, just ask me and I'll > tell you. With a little work only the most decerning eye will be able to > tell the difference, but there's no attempt to deceive on my part. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 5:58 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > >> Is there any info out there that indicates exactly what carbs would have >> been >> included with the period dealer 100 M kit? >> >> AUC 6040 X were on most factory 100 M's but is that what was in the >> "dealer >> kits"? >> >> TIA >> >> Randy >> >> Randy Hicks >> www.austinhealey100m.com >> '56 100 M >> '55 BN1 Le Mans >> '62 BN7 MkII >> '65 BJ8 >> '53 MGTD >> Healey100M@gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 21:20:06 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Randy Hicks Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 19:54:38 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dealer 100 M kit - carbs Randy, Also the carburetor pistons on the 100M are a unique part number and not the same as the TR3 or those on the standard 100 H4s. Curt On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 6:47 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Randy, > > Most maybe but definitely not all. The important number was the hand > scribed (etched) number below that on the carburetor body, i.e., 6047 and > 6053. > > Too many folks get wrapped around the axle about the carburetor being AUC > 6040 X and that's just not the case, there are plenty of factory 100M cars > with AUC 6040 AA on the carburetor bodies. Once again the etched numbers > are what's important. > > Typically TR3 Carburetors are AUC 6040 AC bodies, as these can be converted > to 100M specifications, I'm doing a set as I write this with original 100M > manifolds. NOT so with Jaguar XK140 H6 carburetors, just ask me and I'll > tell you. With a little work only the most decerning eye will be able to > tell the difference, but there's no attempt to deceive on my part. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > > On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 5:58 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > >> Is there any info out there that indicates exactly what carbs would have >> been >> included with the period dealer 100 M kit? >> >> AUC 6040 X were on most factory 100 M's but is that what was in the >> "dealer >> kits"? >> >> TIA >> >> Randy >> >> Randy Hicks >> www.austinhealey100m.com >> '56 100 M >> '55 BN1 Le Mans >> '62 BN7 MkII >> '65 BJ8 >> '53 MGTD >> Healey100M@gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 07:17:12 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Dave Porter'" , "'Curt/Nancy Arndt'" Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 06:51:55 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dealer 100 M kit - carbs Subject: RE: [Healeys] Dealer 100 M kit - carbs In the SU books, they (SU) published a list of applications (vehicles) that were fitted with such and such a model of carb. I can't find mine (not unusual). Perhaps someone has a copy of this list? Joe Curto? University Motors? It would seem very unlikely that a dealer would stray from the factory recommendation. dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 07:47:35 2010 From: "allen c miller jr" To: "Healey List" Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 09:19:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 DIESEL I am helping a friend who just bought a 100 sort out a few issues with SEVERE dieseling and a sticking throttle. Her car is a BN1 converted to BN2 4-speed, and the prior owner mounted a 100-6 top-pedal box to accomodate a hydraulic clutch (presumably a BN4 bellhousing). the throttle linkage was sticking rather severely because the rear brass ball joint casing was hanging up on the original asbestos shielding (the pedal pivot is at the top, and obviously displaces the horizontal linkage a little downward). we've cut away enough of the shielding to eliminate this obstruction, and can set the idle down to 700-800. i had hoped this would kill off the dieseling, but does not. nor does lifting up on the pedal with your toes to assure the throttle is fully back. the dieseling is really bad. you have to engage in 4th and the car wants to drive forward, even when not engine temp is not very high. I have read past threads, and noted several 'usual suspects'... 1. idle speed (not a problem here) 2. choke cable adjustment 3. leaking throttle plate shafts 4. timing 5. too high compression 6. carbon buildup is there an order in which i should check these to rule out contributing factors? are there any other causes of dieseling you've encountered. the engine runs vigorously and has great throttle response. by history from the seller, there was an engine build in the 1970's by his P.O., but we don't know if the head was shaved more than appropriate. if it is a compression issue, would using a tank of CAM2 prove/disprove compression as contributing to the dieseling? if it is, can the problem be solved with having a steel shim made to the shape of a head gasket? are the Dennis Welch steel gaskets thicker so we could lower compression should that be the issue? there is no leakage out the side by the motor number plate, so I don't see a need for one otherwise. allen miller bn2/m _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 08:04:29 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: Dave Porter Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 23:49:56 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dealer 100 M kit - carbs Can't remember the SU numbers, but the principle is the same as Webers. The "BMC" weber is a 45DCOE Type 13. The weber "body" was fitted to a squillion webers. And it is only cast on the weber lid/ top cover, to identify the BMC setup. Dcoe 45 13- that's the only number people remember. And as Joe rightly says - there is more to it to be original that that!!!!! Chris Ex owner of 152199 BN1, with dealer fitted M (cam and carbs) kit, and 12th Austin Healey imported to Australia by Larke Hoskins the Australian distributor, with a racing history including Bathurst 1955. Current custodian of the Black and white car, a triple webered BJ8 www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 04/05/2010, at 10:51 PM, "Dave Porter" wrote: > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Dealer 100 M kit - carbs > > In the SU books, they (SU) published a list of applications > (vehicles) that > were fitted with such and such a model of carb. I can't find mine (not > unusual). Perhaps someone has a copy of this list? Joe Curto? > University > Motors? > It would seem very unlikely that a dealer would stray from the factory > recommendation. > dave > > frogeye@porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 08:34:27 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: allen c miller jr Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 00:11:40 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 DIESEL Start with the timing Allen. And use the best (highest octane) fuel Karyn can afford. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 04/05/2010, at 11:19 PM, "allen c miller jr" wrote: > I am helping a friend who just bought a 100 sort out a few issues > with SEVERE > dieseling and a sticking throttle. Her car is a BN1 converted to BN2 > 4-speed, > and the prior owner mounted a 100-6 top-pedal box to accomodate a > hydraulic > clutch (presumably a BN4 bellhousing). > > the throttle linkage was sticking rather severely because the rear > brass ball > joint casing was hanging up on the original asbestos shielding (the > pedal > pivot is at the top, and obviously displaces the horizontal linkage > a little > downward). we've cut away enough of the shielding to eliminate this > obstruction, and can set the idle down to 700-800. i had hoped this > would kill > off the dieseling, but does not. nor does lifting up on the pedal > with your > toes to assure the throttle is fully back. > > the dieseling is really bad. you have to engage in 4th and the car > wants to > drive forward, even when not engine temp is not very high. I have > read past > threads, and noted several 'usual suspects'... > > 1. idle speed (not a problem here) > 2. choke cable adjustment > 3. leaking throttle plate shafts > 4. timing > 5. too high compression > 6. carbon buildup > > is there an order in which i should check these to rule out > contributing > factors? are there any other causes of dieseling you've encountered. > > the engine runs vigorously and has great throttle response. by > history from > the seller, there was an engine build in the 1970's by his P.O., but > we don't > know if the head was shaved more than appropriate. if it is a > compression > issue, would using a tank of CAM2 prove/disprove compression as > contributing > to the dieseling? if it is, can the problem be solved with having a > steel shim > made to the shape of a head gasket? are the Dennis Welch steel > gaskets thicker > so we could lower compression should that be the issue? there is no > leakage > out the side by the motor number plate, so I don't see a need for one > otherwise. > > allen miller > bn2/m _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 08:35:05 2010 From: Oudesluys To: allen c miller jr Date: Tue, 04 May 2010 16:17:21 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 DIESEL Traditional causes for dieseling are: -Engine running to hot, cooling problems, wrong thermostat -wrong stationary mixture leading to carbon build up in cilinder head -low octane fuel -hot spark plugs -cilinder head not properly finished after a rebuild, leaving sharp edges that can glow -to high compression after shaving the cilinder head, thus needing higher octane fuel Kees Oudesluijs NL allen c miller jr wrote: > I am helping a friend who just bought a 100 sort out a few issues with SEVERE > dieseling and a sticking throttle. Her car is a BN1 converted to BN2 4-speed, > and the prior owner mounted a 100-6 top-pedal box to accomodate a hydraulic > clutch (presumably a BN4 bellhousing). > > the throttle linkage was sticking rather severely because the rear brass ball > joint casing was hanging up on the original asbestos shielding (the pedal > pivot is at the top, and obviously displaces the horizontal linkage a little > downward). we've cut away enough of the shielding to eliminate this > obstruction, and can set the idle down to 700-800. i had hoped this would kill > off the dieseling, but does not. nor does lifting up on the pedal with your > toes to assure the throttle is fully back. > > the dieseling is really bad. you have to engage in 4th and the car wants to > drive forward, even when not engine temp is not very high. I have read past > threads, and noted several 'usual suspects'... > > 1. idle speed (not a problem here) > 2. choke cable adjustment > 3. leaking throttle plate shafts > 4. timing > 5. too high compression > 6. carbon buildup > > is there an order in which i should check these to rule out contributing > factors? are there any other causes of dieseling you've encountered. > > the engine runs vigorously and has great throttle response. by history from > the seller, there was an engine build in the 1970's by his P.O., but we don't > know if the head was shaved more than appropriate. if it is a compression > issue, would using a tank of CAM2 prove/disprove compression as contributing > to the dieseling? if it is, can the problem be solved with having a steel shim > made to the shape of a head gasket? are the Dennis Welch steel gaskets thicker > so we could lower compression should that be the issue? there is no leakage > out the side by the motor number plate, so I don't see a need for one > otherwise. > > allen miller > bn2/m > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2852 - datum van uitgifte: 05/03/10 20:27:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 08:51:22 2010 From: Manuel Formosinho Sanchez To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 15:25:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Mistery cable connection I need help for the following: the ignition coil for my 1955 BN1 has two white cables connected to one of the terminals and one to the other. Last Sunday I was driving the car and suddenly the engine stopped. No feed from ignition. After disconnecting one of the two white cables the engine restarted again and now is running with one cable disconnected and everything is working well. What is this cable for? Should I try to reconnect it? Thanks Manuel Sanchez _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 08:52:23 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Dave Porter Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 07:32:57 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dealer 100 M kit - carbs Dave, Randy and all interested listers, The dealers did not make up the 100M kits supplied to Healey 100s in the mid 1950's. These kits would have been made up and specifically supplied to the dealer by either Healey at Warwick or BMC and would have been *manufactured to a set standard*. As such the carburetors would have been H6's with a body number of 6040 which was the standard. I have spoken to Joe Curto at length on this very issue and he gets very frustrated with folks who tell him that their 100M carburetors MUST be AUC 6040 X, First, he's seen plenty of original 100M carburetors with the 6040 AA body. Second he also states that these numbers are NOT what's important, it's the etched number. The differences in the specific carb setup are denoted by the hand etched number below the 6040 number on the carb body, some of which I'll list as follows... The 100M carburetors had all (3) of their unused fast idle cam bosses milled off. The TR3's have all four of them still intact even though only one is ever used. The 100M carburetors had a unique dashpot piston and part number. The linkage setup on the 100M carburetors was mirror image of the TR3 carbs. As such when converting you'll need to use the brass levers from a set of Healey 100 H4 carburetors, The float bowls and tops were different from other carb applications, etc... BTW these hand etched numbers on the 100M carbs all show evidence by the style of numbers that they were all etched by the same person, i.e. very unique 4 and 7 style. Remember there were 640 documented Factory 100Ms that were produced at BMC with the louvered bonnet but supposedly, there were over 1,100 in total which MAY mean that the remaining were Le Mans kits which may or may not have been installed. Good friend Gordon Brockman bought a Le Mans kit for his BN2 in '56 and never installed it. It sat in his Dad's garage until he passed years ago and Gordon has no idea what happened to the complete kit. So if you go to swap meet and you see a set of H6 carbs with Auc 6040 X OR AA on the bodies AND 6047 and 6053 etched on the bodies, good bet they're original. Cheers, Curt On Tue, May 4, 2010 at 5:12 AM, Dave Porter wrote: > In the SU books, they (SU) published a list of applications (vehicles) that > were fitted with such and such a model of carb. I can't find mine (not > unusual). Perhaps someone has a copy of this list? Joe Curto? University > Motors? > It would seem very unlikely that a dealer would stray from the factory > recommendation. > dave > > frogeye@porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 09:05:55 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: allen c miller jr Date: Tue, 04 May 2010 07:38:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 DIESEL I'd start with a compression test (and check the timing). bs allen c miller jr wrote: > I am helping a friend who just bought a 100 sort out a few issues with SEVERE > dieseling and a sticking throttle. Her car is a BN1 converted to BN2 4-speed, > and the prior owner mounted a 100-6 top-pedal box to accomodate a hydraulic > clutch (presumably a BN4 bellhousing). > > the throttle linkage was sticking rather severely because the rear brass ball > joint casing was hanging up on the original asbestos shielding (the pedal > pivot is at the top, and obviously displaces the horizontal linkage a little > downward). we've cut away enough of the shielding to eliminate this > obstruction, and can set the idle down to 700-800. i had hoped this would kill > off the dieseling, but does not. nor does lifting up on the pedal with your > toes to assure the throttle is fully back. > > the dieseling is really bad. you have to engage in 4th and the car wants to > drive forward, even when not engine temp is not very high. I have read past > threads, and noted several 'usual suspects'... > > 1. idle speed (not a problem here) > 2. choke cable adjustment > 3. leaking throttle plate shafts > 4. timing > 5. too high compression > 6. carbon buildup > > is there an order in which i should check these to rule out contributing > factors? are there any other causes of dieseling you've encountered. > > the engine runs vigorously and has great throttle response. by history from > the seller, there was an engine build in the 1970's by his P.O., but we don't > know if the head was shaved more than appropriate. if it is a compression > issue, would using a tank of CAM2 prove/disprove compression as contributing > to the dieseling? if it is, can the problem be solved with having a steel shim > made to the shape of a head gasket? are the Dennis Welch steel gaskets thicker > so we could lower compression should that be the issue? there is no leakage > out the side by the motor number plate, so I don't see a need for one > otherwise. > > allen miller > bn2/m > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 10:02:35 2010 From: David Nock To: Manuel Formosinho Sanchez Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 08:45:36 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mistery cable connection Are you sure of the wire color. There is 2 white wires. One is the feed from the ignition switch the other goes to the fuel pump. Then there are two white/ black wires, one goes to the distributor points, the other goes to the battery cut off switch. You probably have disconnected the white/black wire the goes to the batterey switch. Look under the car and see if you have pinched the harness in one of the harness clamps under the car. You also can disconnect the white/black wire connector at the firewall behind the intake manifold and try to start the car. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On May 4, 2010, at 7:25 AM, Manuel Formosinho Sanchez wrote: > I need help for the following: the ignition coil for my 1955 BN1 > has two white > cables connected to one of the terminals and one to the other. Last > Sunday I > was driving the car and suddenly the engine stopped. No feed from > ignition. > After disconnecting one of the two white cables the engine > restarted again and > now is running with one cable disconnected and everything is > working well. > What is this cable for? Should I try to reconnect it? > > Thanks > > Manuel Sanchez > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 13:03:21 2010 From: Alan Bromfield To: Healey Mail List Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 19:29:52 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Diesel Too big so re-sent........... Allen and Team Are you sure this is dieseling? It sounds like you still have a spark after switching off. Strange but true - if you have a short circuit across the warning light the generator can continue to energise the coil. Take the warning light bulb out and try again AlanB - iPhone message. allen c miller jr wrote: the dieseling is really bad. you have to engage in 4th and the car wants to drive forward, even when not engine temp is not very high. ___________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 15:36:42 2010 From: "Dr. C. Rubino" To: "healeylist" Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 17:08:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] tires anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. Thanks Carl BN-4(L) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 16:21:25 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: allen c miller jr , Healey List Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 06:01:58 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 DIESEL Allen - You'd have to shave a lot off the 100 block to get that much dieseling. Unlikely but check compression, if up around 180+ or so, then the block is shaved. I'd focus on spark, something is keeping the coil on I think. Alan On 5/4/10, allen c miller jr wrote: > I am helping a friend who just bought a 100 sort out a few issues with > SEVERE > dieseling and a sticking throttle. Her car is a BN1 converted to BN2 > 4-speed, > and the prior owner mounted a 100-6 top-pedal box to accomodate a hydraulic > clutch (presumably a BN4 bellhousing). > > the throttle linkage was sticking rather severely because the rear brass > ball > joint casing was hanging up on the original asbestos shielding (the pedal > pivot is at the top, and obviously displaces the horizontal linkage a little > downward). we've cut away enough of the shielding to eliminate this > obstruction, and can set the idle down to 700-800. i had hoped this would > kill > off the dieseling, but does not. nor does lifting up on the pedal with your > toes to assure the throttle is fully back. > > the dieseling is really bad. you have to engage in 4th and the car wants to > drive forward, even when not engine temp is not very high. I have read past > threads, and noted several 'usual suspects'... > > 1. idle speed (not a problem here) > 2. choke cable adjustment > 3. leaking throttle plate shafts > 4. timing > 5. too high compression > 6. carbon buildup > > is there an order in which i should check these to rule out contributing > factors? are there any other causes of dieseling you've encountered. > > the engine runs vigorously and has great throttle response. by history from > the seller, there was an engine build in the 1970's by his P.O., but we > don't > know if the head was shaved more than appropriate. if it is a compression > issue, would using a tank of CAM2 prove/disprove compression as contributing > to the dieseling? if it is, can the problem be solved with having a steel > shim > made to the shape of a head gasket? are the Dennis Welch steel gaskets > thicker > so we could lower compression should that be the issue? there is no leakage > out the side by the motor number plate, so I don't see a need for one > otherwise. > > allen miller > bn2/m > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 17:06:28 2010 From: "Richard Korn" To: "Dr. C. Rubino" , "healeylist" Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 22:51:26 -0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I put Kuhmo4s from Hendrix on my BN2 in 2007 and have had a great ride and no problems in over 3000 miles. Richard BN2 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. C. Rubino" To: "healeylist" Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 9:08 PM Subject: [Healeys] tires > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rkorn@simnet.is _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 17:22:50 2010 From: "Peter Ryner" To: "Dr. C. Rubino" , "healeylist" Date: Tue, 04 May 2010 18:58:57 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires We purchased a '99 SL 500 two years ago with Kumho's installed. They got out of balance very quickly and act like the old nylon tires. They seem to get flat spots when sitting for a day or two. The vibration will eventually work out but they still seem to get out of balance frequently. We live in Florida so I have no experience in snow and very little in the rain. Personally I wouldn't purchase them after this experience. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. C. Rubino" To: "healeylist" Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 5:08 PM Subject: [Healeys] tires > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 17:42:03 2010 From: "Peter Schauss" To: "'Dr. C. Rubino'" , "'healeylist'" Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 19:10:12 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I put them on my BJ7 last fall at the recommendation of Allen Hendrix. The look good on the car and seem to handle all right. I have only put a few hundred miles on mine however. HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino > Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 5:08 PM > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] tires > > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 17:42:53 2010 From: "Peter Linn" To: "Dr. C. Rubino" , "healeylist" Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 09:13:46 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires G'day Carl I've had Kumho 656/658 185/80R15 on my BN1 coupe for 7 years, and now have Solus KH15 185/65/R15 on my V6 engined BN1. I've found them very good both wear and ride-wise, and they're cheap (A$120.00 here)! Cheers Peter Brisbane Oz BN1 Ward Spl coupe BN1 GM V6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Korn" To: "Dr. C. Rubino" ; "healeylist" Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 8:51 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires >I put Kuhmo4s from Hendrix on my BN2 in 2007 and have had a great ride and >no problems in over 3000 miles. > > Richard > BN2 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dr. C. Rubino" > To: "healeylist" > Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 9:08 PM > Subject: [Healeys] tires > > >> anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. >> >> Thanks >> >> Carl >> BN-4(L) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 18:09:25 2010 From: "Ron Fine" To: "Dr. C. Rubino" , "healeylist" Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 16:39:06 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I have them on my MGB and think they are just fine for normal street driving. Price was cheap. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. C. Rubino" To: "healeylist" Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 2:08 PM Subject: [Healeys] tires > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq@earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 18:10:04 2010 From: "Richard Collins " To: "Peter Ryner " , "ruvino@ripnet.com " Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 23:40:20 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I have Kumhos on my LS430 Lexus and no issue. I am on my second set on my 89 Turbo Porsche which I have over 1000 track miles and no issue. ------Original Message------ From: Peter Ryner To: ruvino@ripnet.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires Sent: May 4, 2010 17:58 We purchased a '99 SL 500 two years ago with Kumho's installed. They got out of balance very quickly and act like the old nylon tires. They seem to get flat spots when sitting for a day or two. The vibration will eventually work out but they still seem to get out of balance frequently. We live in Florida so I have no experience in snow and very little in the rain. Personally I wouldn't purchase them after this experience. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. C. Rubino" To: "healeylist" Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 5:08 PM Subject: [Healeys] tires > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 18:10:28 2010 From: bighealey3k@aim.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 May 2010 19:43:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Red Healey in AAA TripTik I just noticed on the back cover of a AAA TripTik, I had made up a couple of weeks ago here in the Atlanta area, a picture of a red early model Healey with a creased hood (bonnet). It is being driven (LHD & on the right side of road) down a coastal highway with a large body of water on the left side of the picture. It has a driver's side mirror on the fender about a foot and a half or so forward of the windshield (if there is a RH mirror it is hidden by the windshield post), a black interior, a wood rimmed steering wheel, with the top (hood) down and the passenger seat back is pushed forward for the photographer to stand behind or sit on the rear shroud to take the picture above the line of the windshield. Can only see the drivers hands and part of the forearms. If it is a "Left Coaster", they are driving north or a "Right Coaster" they are driving south if taken in North America. The right side of the road has a vegetation covered dune or berm along side of it. The page doesn't have any identifying numbers on it for a reference like the rest of the pages do. The page is promoting the benefits of using AAA trip services. Could it be anyone on the list we know? Larry '67 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 18:32:24 2010 From: Tom To: "Dr. C. Rubino" Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 20:16:29 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I have a 5-year old set on our Acura and a 2 year-old set on my 3000. Very happy with them, and very reasonably priced. - Tom On Tue, May 4, 2010 at 5:08 PM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote: > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 19:03:53 2010 From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 17:44:25 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I've had Kumhos from Hendrix on my BJ8 since 2007 and 18K miles. I've been very happy with the ride, performance, and wear so far. Flat spotting has not been a problem for me. Unfortunately, Hendrix says he can't get the Kumhos anymore. Apparently, they are no longer being manufactured in 165 size. Vredesteins are what he is selling now. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Collins Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 4:40 PM To: Peter Ryner ; ruvino@ripnet.com ; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I have Kumhos on my LS430 Lexus and no issue. I am on my second set on my 89 Turbo Porsche which I have over 1000 track miles and no issue. ------Original Message------ From: Peter Ryner To: ruvino@ripnet.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires Sent: May 4, 2010 17:58 We purchased a '99 SL 500 two years ago with Kumho's installed. They got out of balance very quickly and act like the old nylon tires. They seem to get flat spots when sitting for a day or two. The vibration will eventually work out but they still seem to get out of balance frequently. We live in Florida so I have no experience in snow and very little in the rain. Personally I wouldn't purchase them after this experience. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. C. Rubino" To: "healeylist" Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 5:08 PM Subject: [Healeys] tires > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers@ec.rr.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.814 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2852 - Release Date: 05/03/10 23:27:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 19:59:19 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Peter Schauss , "'Dr. C. Rubino'" Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 20:38:00 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I've had them on my Spitfire for 5 or 6 years and am happy with them. tom ---- Peter Schauss wrote: ============= I put them on my BJ7 last fall at the recommendation of Allen Hendrix. The look good on the car and seem to handle all right. I have only put a few hundred miles on mine however. HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino > Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 5:08 PM > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] tires > > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 20:23:34 2010 From: Tom Felts To: BJ8 Healeys , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 20:42:36 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires And Vredestines are great looking, handling and riding tires. Have them on the Healey and the E-Type. tom ---- BJ8 Healeys wrote: ============= I've had Kumhos from Hendrix on my BJ8 since 2007 and 18K miles. I've been very happy with the ride, performance, and wear so far. Flat spotting has not been a problem for me. Unfortunately, Hendrix says he can't get the Kumhos anymore. Apparently, they are no longer being manufactured in 165 size. Vredesteins are what he is selling now. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Collins Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 4:40 PM To: Peter Ryner ; ruvino@ripnet.com ; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I have Kumhos on my LS430 Lexus and no issue. I am on my second set on my 89 Turbo Porsche which I have over 1000 track miles and no issue. ------Original Message------ From: Peter Ryner To: ruvino@ripnet.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires Sent: May 4, 2010 17:58 We purchased a '99 SL 500 two years ago with Kumho's installed. They got out of balance very quickly and act like the old nylon tires. They seem to get flat spots when sitting for a day or two. The vibration will eventually work out but they still seem to get out of balance frequently. We live in Florida so I have no experience in snow and very little in the rain. Personally I wouldn't purchase them after this experience. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. C. Rubino" To: "healeylist" Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 5:08 PM Subject: [Healeys] tires > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers@ec.rr.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.814 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2852 - Release Date: 05/03/10 23:27:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 21:35:49 2010 From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 20:09:53 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Red Healey in AAA TripTik Larry: That picture is evidently a 'stock' photo available for public use. It has popped up several times and was discussed on The List several years ago. It appeared in 2007 as a left hand drive Healey in an ad from Sodi Scientifica, and, with photo flipped, as a right hand drive Healey in an article from AOL Money and Finance. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 4:43 PM Subject: [Healeys] Red Healey in AAA TripTik >I just noticed on the back cover of a AAA TripTik, I had made up a couple >of > weeks ago here in the Atlanta area, a picture of a red early model Healey > with > a creased hood (bonnet). It is being driven (LHD & on the right side of > road) > down a coastal highway with a large body of water on the left side of the > picture. It has a driver's side mirror on the fender about a foot and a > half > or so forward of the windshield (if there is a RH mirror it is hidden by > the > windshield post), a black interior, a wood rimmed steering wheel, with the > top > (hood) down and the passenger seat back is pushed forward for the > photographer > to stand behind or sit on the rear shroud to take the picture above the > line > of the windshield. Can only see the drivers hands and part of the > forearms. > If it is a "Left Coaster", they are driving north or a "Right Coaster" > they > are driving south if taken in North America. The right side of the road > has a > vegetation covered dune or berm along side of it. The page doesn't have > any > identifying numbers on it for a reference like the rest of the pages do. > The > page is promoting the benefits of using AAA trip services. Could it be > anyone > on the list we know? > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 21:52:39 2010 From: "Mark Goodman" To: Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 23:24:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Khumo Tires I have put at least 5 sets of Khumo tires on my cars ( including my Daughter and Son's cars ) over the past 5 years and have been very pleased with the performance and especially the price. They give you the best "bang for your buck" for well performing street tires. My current daily driver came with Sport Pilot run flat tires that are great on dry pavement, but worthless in snow. I recommend them to anyone looking for a great set of tires. Mark 66BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 22:34:24 2010 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: "'North Bay British Car Club'" Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 21:15:54 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Red Healey in AAA TripTik Yes, that car is on istock. http://tinyurl.com/2bqzu8h I can't find the version with the driver inside... they must have bought it down. Wilko On May 4, 2010, at 8:09 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote: > Larry: That picture is evidently a 'stock' photo available for > public use. It has popped up several times and was discussed on The > List several years ago. It appeared in 2007 as a left hand drive > Healey in an ad from Sodi Scientifica, and, with photo flipped, as a > right hand drive Healey in an article from AOL Money and Finance. > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 4:43 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Red Healey in AAA TripTik _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 02:08:45 2010 From: Manuel Formosinho Sanchez To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 08:43:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 brakes On intensive use the brakes of my 1955 BN1 get hot very quickly, the brake pedal becomes very hard and the car does not stop. Is this a common problem? Is there a solution? Thanks Manuel Sanchez _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 03:41:33 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Manuel Formosinho Sanchez Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 11:09:22 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 brakes This is classic brake fade. The brake lining sort of melts creating a lubricant for the braking surface with no friction resulting. Have the linings replaced with asbestos containing (if you still can) material suitable for fast road driving. If you have disc brakes, change the pads to EBC Green or Red stuff pads or other pads suitable for fast road driving. Kees Oudesluijs NL Manuel Formosinho Sanchez wrote: > On intensive use the brakes of my 1955 BN1 get hot very quickly, the brake > pedal becomes very hard and the car does not stop. Is this a common problem? > Is there a solution? > > Thanks > > Manuel Sanchez > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2852 - datum van uitgifte: 05/03/10 20:27:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 04:33:04 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Manuel Formosinho Sanchez , Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 18:14:29 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 brakes Manuel - I would highly recommend flushing your brake system and then replacing your rubber brake hoses. Braking on the 100 is not as good as a disc braked car, but it is still sufficient for a road vehicle. Alan On 5/5/10, Manuel Formosinho Sanchez wrote: > On intensive use the brakes of my 1955 BN1 get hot very quickly, the brake > pedal becomes very hard and the car does not stop. Is this a common problem? > Is there a solution? > > Thanks > > Manuel Sanchez > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 05:47:54 2010 From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 04:31:23 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires Whatever tires you get from Hendrix, he will balance them properly when he does the mounting. If he can't balance them, he won't sell them to you. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl] Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 1:52 AM To: Tom Felts Cc: BJ8 Healeys; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires Beware of the Vredesteins. They can have balancing issues in the sizes suitable for the AH's and TR6's. Appaerantly because of not properly laid cords or something to that effect. I have seen quite a lot of these tires with barely noticable bumps on their sides, where the owner of the car complained about not being able to get the wheels properly balanced. Kees Oudesluijs NL _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 06:18:53 2010 From: "Heal;ey" To: "Dr. C. Rubino" , "healeylist" Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 07:57:58 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires They work great I had them on my car for 4 years now and no problems Bob 1963 BJ7 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dr. C. Rubino" Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 5:08 PM To: "healeylist" Subject: [Healeys] tires > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bj7ah@acanac.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 06:19:26 2010 From: TimWardUK@aol.com To: healey.nut@gmail.com, ManuelFS@emparque.pt, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 08:02:59 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 brakes I recently had a similar problem on my Mk1 Sprite. What it turned out to be was the piston in the Master Cylinder not having enough movement in the return so that the pressure in the pipes could be released through the pressure release hole. By adjusting the movement of the brake piston the problem went away. The car is not stopping because your drums have overheated. The opposite would be the case if you had disk brakes, which is what I have, and my front Brakes just locked solid. Very disconcerting! Tim BJ8 1967 Frogeye 1959 Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 _www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk_ (http://www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk/) _www.shuttermagic.co.uk_ (http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/) In a message dated 05/05/2010 11:33:55 GMT Daylight Time, healey.nut@gmail.com writes: Manuel - I would highly recommend flushing your brake system and then replacing your rubber brake hoses. Braking on the 100 is not as good as a disc braked car, but it is still sufficient for a road vehicle. Alan On 5/5/10, Manuel Formosinho Sanchez wrote: > On intensive use the brakes of my 1955 BN1 get hot very quickly, the brake > pedal becomes very hard and the car does not stop. Is this a common problem? > Is there a solution? > > Thanks > > Manuel Sanchez > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/timwarduk@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 08:05:25 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: healeylist Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 06:46:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Ugh Wonder what this'll do to our Healeys. I've probably run 10% gasahol through my BJ8-you never really know what's coming out of the pump--and survived, but the 'run too hot' part concerns me. http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/05/business/energy-environment/05ethanol.html?hpw -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 09:04:09 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Bob Spidell Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 16:44:18 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ugh No problem. You do not have an oxygen sensor in your Healey to weaken the mixture. The car runs on good old carbs without any electronics. Adjusting the mixture by screwing up or down the needle in the SU's will all that is neccesary if at all. The main problem is a higher accidity of exhaust gasses causing havoc on mild steel exhausts. This can also be a problem on pistons, rings and bores if the car is used a lot on short trips were the engine does not heat up fully. I ran 100% ethanol cars in the late 70's in experiments with existing cars that had modifications to the carbs (mainly jetting) and ignition. In this program we had cars running on natural gas, LPG, petrol and ethanol. In the end the 100% ethanol caused to much problems for existing cars, natural gas was to expensive and bothersome to store so only petrol (later mixed with a certain amount of ethanol) and LPG remained practical as they had done so before. Kees Oudesluijs NL Bob Spidell wrote: > Wonder what this'll do to our Healeys. I've probably run 10% gasahol > through my BJ8-you never really know what's coming out of the > pump--and survived, but the 'run too hot' part concerns me. > > http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/05/business/energy-environment/05ethanol.html?hpw > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2854 - datum van uitgifte: 05/04/10 20:27:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 09:36:40 2010 From: Charlie Baldwin To: Oudesluys , healey list Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 11:17:20 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ugh Kees, Is it fairly common in The Netherlands to have cars running on LPG? The reason that I ask is that several years ago a Dutch vintage Volvo club was here in the US to tour across the country for several months. Some friends and I met up with them early in the tour in Gettysburg, PA. Most all of these car were equipped to run on LPG and most had to convert back to gasoline to do the tour here. These were Volvos from the late '50s & '60s generally which had SU carbs. One of the things that I wondered is where they hid the tanks for the LPG if they also had the original gasoline tank too. Charlie Oudesluys wrote: > No problem. You do not have an oxygen sensor in your Healey to weaken > the mixture. The car runs on good old carbs without any electronics. > Adjusting the mixture by screwing up or down the needle in the SU's > will all that is neccesary if at all. > The main problem is a higher accidity of exhaust gasses causing havoc > on mild steel exhausts. This can also be a problem on pistons, rings > and bores if the car is used a lot on short trips were the engine does > not heat up fully. > I ran 100% ethanol cars in the late 70's in experiments with existing > cars that had modifications to the carbs (mainly jetting) and > ignition. In this program we had cars running on natural gas, LPG, > petrol and ethanol. In the end the 100% ethanol caused to much > problems for existing cars, natural gas was to expensive and > bothersome to store so only petrol (later mixed with a certain amount > of ethanol) and LPG remained practical as they had done so before. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Bob Spidell wrote: >> Wonder what this'll do to our Healeys. I've probably run 10% gasahol >> through my BJ8-you never really know what's coming out of the >> pump--and survived, but the 'run too hot' part concerns me. >> >> http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/05/business/energy-environment/05ethanol.html?hpw >> >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: >> 271.1.1/2854 - datum van uitgifte: 05/04/10 20:27:00 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie@comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 10:20:02 2010 From: Tom To: healeylist Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 11:55:09 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ugh Aiyiyi... once again, the laws of Congress are about to collide with the laws of physics. Our modern cars are getting poorer gas mileage with 10% alcohol, which means they're putting our more CO2. Anybody see a problem here? It's bad for the cars, bad for the environment. The only winners are big agri-businesses which are pushing this. - Tom On Wed, May 5, 2010 at 9:46 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Wonder what this'll do to our Healeys. I've probably run 10% gasahol > through my BJ8-you never really know what's coming out of the pump--and > survived, but the 'run too hot' part concerns me. > > http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/05/business/energy-environment/05ethanol.html? hpw > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 11:32:50 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Charlie Baldwin Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 19:12:38 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] LPG Charlie Baldwin wrote: > Kees, > Is it fairly common in The Netherlands to have cars running on LPG? > The reason that I ask is that several years ago a Dutch vintage Volvo > club was here in the US to tour across the country for several > months. Some friends and I met up with them early in the tour in > Gettysburg, PA. Most all of these car were equipped to run on LPG and > most had to convert back to gasoline to do the tour here. These were > Volvos from the late '50s & '60s generally which had SU carbs. > One of the things that I wondered is where they hid the tanks for the > LPG if they also had the original gasoline tank too. > Charlie _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 12:04:46 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Charlie Baldwin Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 19:48:32 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ugh Charlie, LPG was very popular here on large cars in the 50's-80's after which a decline set in. The LPG installation was difficult and expensive to adapt to modern fuel injection controlled by computer and oxygen sensor. At some time about 20% of the cars were running on LPG, now it is less than 5%. I still run my old Landrover SIII on LPG. Often the tanks are hidden in the spare wheel well, however this is rather unpractical as the capacity is not very high. Mainly the tanks are the 60 or 80 liters variety hidden in the boot. The old Volvo engine was very suitable to convert to LPG. Kees Oudesluijs Charlie Baldwin wrote: > Kees, > Is it fairly common in The Netherlands to have cars running on LPG? > The reason that I ask is that several years ago a Dutch vintage Volvo > club was here in the US to tour across the country for several > months. Some friends and I met up with them early in the tour in > Gettysburg, PA. Most all of these car were equipped to run on LPG and > most had to convert back to gasoline to do the tour here. These were > Volvos from the late '50s & '60s generally which had SU carbs. > One of the things that I wondered is where they hid the tanks for the > LPG if they also had the original gasoline tank too. > Charlie _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 12:20:42 2010 From: TERRY COLL To: , austin healey Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 13:58:44 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires Karl, I just put Kumhos on my BJ8 and really like them. I had Hendrix Wire Wheels do the mounting, balancing and truing of the wheels and it all worked out fine. Terry Coll '64 BJ8 > From: ruvino@ripnet.com > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 17:08:13 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] tires > > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coll44@msn.com _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 12:48:32 2010 From: andy pole To: Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 18:33:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] bj8 window glass / door rubber seal Guys Anyone have trouble with the new rubber seal that is clipped to the chrome top. I wound down my window yesterday and noticed that as you wind the glass down the rubber peels down and bend back on it self downwards, this is okay until the window is wound back up and the rubber graps the glass causing me to break a nylon runner - doh! Luckily I still had a nylon block and changed it last night (dam new glass and rubber seal / u channel was difficult to get off). On reinstalling the window (without the outer rubber seal and chrome top) it goes up and down like a dream. Question : has any one shaved a couple of millimeters off the depth of the seal so there is not so much pressure on the glass causing it to bind and bend in on itself? and did it work? just when I thought I was nearly finished. And thanks Rich C for the help the karvel carpet and seats do look the dogs do dars (even though I say it myself). cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 12:49:44 2010 From: andy pole To: , , Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 18:36:58 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I can second the Vredstein's, decided to buy a new set of MWS 15" painted standard wheels and went for the vredsteins. Nice looking classic tread pattern, alot like the Michelins. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 13:48:21 2010 From: To: healey help Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 15:22:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Ugh Since the onset of the 10% in the gas, my mileage went down approximately 10% on all our cars. Several other people I talked with also noted a definate decline in mpg. Unfortunately, these idiots in Washington do not realize what they are doing and according to my calculations, it now takes more gas to get where you are going. As Pogo said "we have met the enemy and he is us!". Bill BJ7 > Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 06:46:10 -0700 > From: bspidell@comcast.net > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Ugh > > Wonder what this'll do to our Healeys. I've probably run 10% gasahol > through my BJ8-you never really know what's coming out of the pump--and > survived, but the 'run too hot' part concerns me. > > http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/05/business/energy-environment/05ethanol.html? hpw > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 13:49:05 2010 From: "Freese, Ken" To: Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 12:26:18 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I actually think the Vredesteins suck. They follow the rain grooves and are very nervous feeling. The old Michelin XZX in 165 were nicer than these Vredesteins in 185/70. Yokohamas were also nice but not available anymore. I should have waited for the Pirelli CN36 reproductions. They were great in the 1970's. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 14:04:09 2010 From: "Al Fuller" To: "'Shop at \" Just Brits \"'" , Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 15:36:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Non-DOT tires Ed: You and Rich are right about one of us putting non-DOT approved tires on our car [in the US], and getting sued over resulting damages in the event of an accident. My comment is: rightly so!! Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shop at " Just Brits " Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 8:48 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dunlop racing tyres Rich, whilst I concur with you 100%...... <> Your best line is above [tho I stick with 6 years -:)] BUT [and sorry], Rick's comment trumps yours !!! -:) !! << Speaking of liability, get in an accident with non DOT approved tires on your car, a personal injury lawyer will be licking his chops. >> GOSPEL, IMHO !!!! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 14:19:47 2010 From: Richard Kahn To: , Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 12:59:42 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 window glass / door rubber seal I have the exact problem you stated. I wont have the car on the road 'till next week but I had planned to use some rubber lubricant and clean and wax the windows to see if it improves the "drag". The old rubber was tapered but this new stuff from Moss is stiff. It curls in as the window goes down. I've been meaning to call Moss but I have too many other issues in getting back on the road. I didn't like the felt strip the sent me either. Rich Kahn > From: ampole@hotmail.com > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 18:33:54 +0000 > Subject: [Healeys] bj8 window glass / door rubber seal > > Guys > > > > Anyone have trouble with the new rubber seal that is clipped to the chrome > top. > > > > I wound down my window yesterday and noticed that as you wind the glass down > the rubber peels down and bend back on it self downwards, this is okay until > the window is wound back up and the rubber graps the glass causing me to break > a nylon runner - doh! > > > > Luckily I still had a nylon block and changed it last night (dam new glass and > rubber seal / u channel was difficult to get off). On reinstalling the window > (without the outer rubber seal and chrome top) it goes up and down like a > dream. > > > > Question : has any one shaved a couple of millimeters off the depth of the > seal so there is not so much pressure on the glass causing it to bind and bend > in on itself? and did it work? > > > > just when I thought I was nearly finished. And thanks Rich C for the help the > karvel carpet and seats do look the dogs do dars (even though I say it > myself). > > > > cheers Andy > > _________________________________________________________________ > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ > We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us > now > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 14:20:59 2010 From: "Al Fuller" To: "'Dr. C. Rubino'" , "'healeylist'" Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 16:00:02 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I got Kuhmos with my new wires from Hendrix Wire Wheels a couple of years ago. The tires are just fine. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 5:08 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] tires anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. Thanks Carl BN-4(L) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/al@bighealey.org _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 14:34:58 2010 From: Randy Hicks To: Ken Freese , Healey List Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 16:12:19 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires "Suck" is a little strong. :-) I have 185/70 Vredesteins on the 100 M and had them on the BJ8. They are a soft compound tire with a soft sidewall which, as Ken says, makes them a "very nervous feeling". Knowing this I run a little more pressure in the 100 M. It helps a lot but again they are a soft compound tire that rides well and grips very well. On the BJ8 I just replaced the 185/70 Vredesteins with 185 X 15 Vredesteins. Taller tire and not quite as wide. A huge difference in performance and feel. Much more stable and do not follow the rain grooves as Ken complains about. I suspect that being a taller tire, the sidewall is stronger. But overall a much better feel and stabler. That said, I will admit that I went to the minilite style wheel vs. wires, for long distance touring, and I love the combination. The BN1 I have came with Kumho's and they are OK. Passenger car type tire but not a performance tire, Don't seem to do anything wrong but don't do anything great either. Guess it all, depends on how you drive and use your car. Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M@gmail.com On May 5, 2010, at 3:26 PM, Freese, Ken wrote: > I actually think the Vredesteins suck. They follow the rain grooves and > are very nervous feeling. The old Michelin XZX in 165 were nicer than > these Vredesteins in 185/70. Yokohamas were also nice but not available > anymore. I should have waited for the Pirelli CN36 reproductions. They > were great in the 1970's. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 14:35:24 2010 From: Oudesluys To: "Freese, Ken" Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 22:20:08 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires Another good make not to dismiss is Toyo. Kees Oudesluijs NL Freese, Ken wrote: > I actually think the Vredesteins suck. They follow the rain grooves and > are very nervous feeling. The old Michelin XZX in 165 were nicer than > these Vredesteins in 185/70. Yokohamas were also nice but not available > anymore. I should have waited for the Pirelli CN36 reproductions. They > were great in the 1970's. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.814 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2854 - datum van uitgifte: 05/04/10 20:27:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 14:50:02 2010 From: Tom Felts To: "Freese, Ken" , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 15:25:01 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires Funny how we differ on feelings. Last year I came back from Va Beach in my E-Type to Pittsburgh on the Pa turnpike. I rained the entire way. I have Vredesteins on it and was driving most of the way at 75 and 80 mph. I felt no adverse feelings and actually felt very secure with them. YMMV. tom ---- "Freese wrote: ============= I actually think the Vredesteins suck. They follow the rain grooves and are very nervous feeling. The old Michelin XZX in 165 were nicer than these Vredesteins in 185/70. Yokohamas were also nice but not available anymore. I should have waited for the Pirelli CN36 reproductions. They were great in the 1970's. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 14:50:38 2010 From: "Bob Yule" To: "Freese, Ken" , Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 16:28:01 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires Our experience has been exactly the opposite. Although I do prefer the 165 HR 15 in the Vredesteins. Cheers.......Bob Check out our web site www.autofarm.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Freese, Ken" To: Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 3:26 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires >I actually think the Vredesteins suck. They follow the rain grooves and > are very nervous feeling. The old Michelin XZX in 165 were nicer than > these Vredesteins in 185/70. Yokohamas were also nice but not available > anymore. I should have waited for the Pirelli CN36 reproductions. They > were great in the 1970's. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 14:50:51 2010 From: To: Healeys Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 20:28:07 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I'm fairly ignorant on the subject, but I believe that I heard that the Kumhos are manufactured in a different country now than they used to be and the quality may be different? Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 14:51:07 2010 From: Rick Swain To: , Healey List Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 20:28:46 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires Perhaps the size of the tires has something to do with your experience. Too much tire for a particular rim might make the handling nervous. I'd like to hear about a comparison between new 165 Michelins and new 165 Vredesteins (or whatever). I don't know whether you'd get an accurate comparison if you are talking about tires of different sizes. I now have 165 Vredesteins on standard rims. I quite like them but I live in an area with no rain grooves (Nova Scotia has lots of poor pavement and potholes but thankfully no rain grooves). I did have 175 Michelin XZXs in a 175 size but these were on wider 72 spoke rims. The Vredesteins grip better than the Michelins did but that's not a fair comparison because the Michelins were over 10 years old. I might have gone for new Michelins but when I needed them a couple of years ago I couldn't find any. Rick'59 BN4 > I actually think the Vredesteins suck. They follow the rain grooves and > are very nervous feeling. The old Michelin XZX in 165 were nicer than > these Vredesteins in 185/70. Yokohamas were also nice but not available > anymore. I should have waited for the Pirelli CN36 reproductions. They > were great in the 1970's. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 _________________________________________________________________ MSN Dating: Find someone special. Start now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9729707 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 14:51:21 2010 From: Rick Swain To: Healey List Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 20:30:21 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Tires Perhaps the size of the tires has something to do with your experience. Too much tire for a particular rim might make the handling nervous. I'd like to hear about a comparison between new 165 Michelins and new 165 Vredesteins (or whatever). I don't know whether you'd get an accurate comparison if you are talking about tires of different sizes. I now have 165 Vredesteins on standard rims. I quite like them but I live in an area with no rain grooves (Nova Scotia has lots of poor pavement and potholes but thankfully no rain grooves). I did have 175 Michelin XZXs in a 175 size but these were on wider 72 spoke rims. The Vredesteins grip better than the Michelins did but that's not a fair comparison because the Michelins were over 10 years old. I might have gone for new Michelins but when I needed them a couple of years ago I couldn't find any. Rick'59 BN4 > I actually think the Vredesteins suck. They follow the rain grooves and > are very nervous feeling. The old Michelin XZX in 165 were nicer than > these Vredesteins in 185/70. Yokohamas were also nice but not available > anymore. I should have waited for the Pirelli CN36 reproductions. They > were great in the 1970's. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 _________________________________________________________________ 30 days of prizes to be won with Hotmail. Enter Here. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9729709 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 14:52:03 2010 From: Skip Besaw To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 16:33:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel repair Does anyone know who is capable of replacing spokes on 60 spoke wire wheels in MA or RI or Southern NH? I have three wheels with 5, 2 and 2 broken spokes respectively. I have the replacement spokes but can't find = anyone who can do the work. Thanks _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 15:20:49 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 17:05:40 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires redux One more comment in the mix. The wider the tires, in my experience having driven on a lot of different cars) and the stickier the tread compound, the more likely the car will feel squirrely on rain grooves (it's call tram-lining, incidentally, in the motor press, going back to when tires would get hung up in the trolley tracks). That's one of the reasons I prefer a higher, narrower tire for the Healey, with a harder compound. Folks who choose to run 185s, or worse, 205s, may think they look cool, but they are imho buying trouble. Cheers Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 15:48:42 2010 From: "Peter Schauss" To: "'Skip Besaw'" , Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 17:24:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel repair I have never used them, but there is a place called Wheel Repair Service in Auburn, MA. http://www.wheelrepairservice.com/ HTH, Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 1980 MGB > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Skip Besaw > Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 4:34 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel repair > > Does anyone know who is capable of replacing spokes on 60 spoke wire > wheels in > MA or RI or Southern NH? I have three wheels with 5, 2 and 2 broken spokes > respectively. I have the replacement spokes but can't find = > anyone who can do the work. Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 16:18:00 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "andy pole" , Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 18:01:47 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 window glass / door rubber seal I recently had exactly the same problem with the exterior rubber strip "grabbing" and curling the rubber when the glass was being wound down. I sprayed a small amount of silicone lube on my fingers and rubbed it onto the rubber. It wasn't enough to smear onto the glass and it immediately cured the problem. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "andy pole" Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 2:33 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] bj8 window glass / door rubber seal > Guys > > > > Anyone have trouble with the new rubber seal that is clipped to the chrome > top. > > > > I wound down my window yesterday and noticed that as you wind the glass > down > the rubber peels down and bend back on it self downwards, this is okay > until > the window is wound back up and the rubber graps the glass causing me to > break > a nylon runner - doh! > > > > Luckily I still had a nylon block and changed it last night (dam new glass > and > rubber seal / u channel was difficult to get off). On reinstalling the > window > (without the outer rubber seal and chrome top) it goes up and down like a > dream. > > > > Question : has any one shaved a couple of millimeters off the depth of the > seal so there is not so much pressure on the glass causing it to bind and > bend > in on itself? and did it work? > > > > just when I thought I was nearly finished. And thanks Rich C for the help > the > karvel carpet and seats do look the dogs do dars (even though I say it > myself). > > > > cheers Andy > > _________________________________________________________________ > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ > We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell > us > now > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 16:18:31 2010 From: andy pole To: , , Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 22:06:00 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires As both Bob and Rick point out, two things to take into account, if you are running the standard 60 spoke 4.5j (165) or the 72 spoke 5j (185). I went for the standard 4.5j 165's with the higher rated tyre being the HR rating instead of the SR. cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 16:34:32 2010 From: andy pole To: Rich C , Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 22:10:16 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 window glass / door rubber seal Top man! I like the easy fixes, and they are not usually that easy. Shame I still had to take the window out and replace the runner! (that little voice kept saying just wind it up whats the worst that can happen). I will give it a try before I cut the holes in the door cards and fit. cheers Rich thanks Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 16:34:50 2010 From: MGTD51 To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 18:11:47 -1100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel repair I bought my wire wheels from this outfit - at the time they were rebuilding several old wire wheels. On 5/5/2010 10:24 AM, Peter Schauss wrote: > I have never used them, but there is a place called Wheel Repair Service in > Auburn, MA. > > http://www.wheelrepairservice.com/ > > HTH, > Peter Schauss > 1963 BJ7 > 1980 MGB > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- >> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Skip Besaw >> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 4:34 PM >> To: healeys@autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel repair >> >> Does anyone know who is capable of replacing spokes on 60 spoke wire >> wheels in >> MA or RI or Southern NH? I have three wheels with 5, 2 and 2 broken spokes >> respectively. I have the replacement spokes but can't find = >> anyone who can do the work. Thanks >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss@gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgtd51@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 16:35:11 2010 From: To: Editorgary@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 22:14:30 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires redux I agree with Gary, I know it may be a matter of opinion and what you want, but I have found my classic British cars have performed and "felt" better on a narrower tire close to manufactures spec. In addition to the noted squirrely wandering if you explore the limits with the wider tire you are more likely to get more severe roll and suspension angles than with the narrow tire, maybe a slightly higher overall limit, but a lighter feel to the steering and more of a confident, and I can control it (and have fun with it) if I get a little bit of a slide feel with 165s. YMMV Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 16:35:27 2010 From: Randy Hicks To: "Peter Schauss" Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 18:14:45 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel repair Yes, Fred Balenger @ 508-832-3222 Have not used him. Only works a couple days a week. http://www.wheelrepairservice.com/ He was highly recommended to me by Alan Hendrix. Pretty good endorsement IMHO. :-) Randy On May 5, 2010, at 5:24 PM, Peter Schauss wrote: > I have never used them, but there is a place called Wheel Repair Service in > Auburn, MA. > > http://www.wheelrepairservice.com/ > > HTH, > Peter Schauss > 1963 BJ7 > 1980 MGB > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- >> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Skip Besaw >> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 4:34 PM >> To: healeys@autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel repair >> >> Does anyone know who is capable of replacing spokes on 60 spoke wire >> wheels in >> MA or RI or Southern NH? I have three wheels with 5, 2 and 2 broken spokes >> respectively. I have the replacement spokes but can't find = >> anyone who can do the work. Thanks >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rpschauss@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 16:51:04 2010 From: "Herbert Miller" To: Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 17:29:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Glass washer bottle I have seen the name "Trafalgar" associated with glass windshield washer bottles, so I checked on the one I have. Trafalgar no. It has "Manufactured by John Sydney LTD" on the metal lid. Dimensionally it fits the hole in the parcel shelf perfectly. The metal bracket clamps to the bottle with ears as to sit in the shelf hole. Is this even for a Healey? Herb Miller _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 18:05:11 2010 From: Jack Feldman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 18:47:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] MGC vs AH motors, not Distributor Much thanks to all who shared their wisdom. One problem in trying to deal with this long distance, it it is going through a non mechanical person. When I queried the shop, the answer was weak springs, but "we compensated for it", and the car now runs to the mechanics satisfaction. I"m not sure how you compensate for it, but they are not going to try to sell me a new distributor, and that counts for something. Thanks again. Jack _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 19:04:08 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Oudesluys Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 17:47:24 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ugh Thanks, Kees. Cogent comment, as usual. I also worry about the corrosive effects of the higher ethanol content. bs Oudesluys wrote: > No problem. You do not have an oxygen sensor in your Healey to weaken > the mixture. The car runs on good old carbs without any electronics. > Adjusting the mixture by screwing up or down the needle in the SU's > will all that is neccesary if at all. > The main problem is a higher accidity of exhaust gasses causing havoc > on mild steel exhausts. This can also be a problem on pistons, rings > and bores if the car is used a lot on short trips were the engine does > not heat up fully. > I ran 100% ethanol cars in the late 70's in experiments with existing > cars that had modifications to the carbs (mainly jetting) and > ignition. In this program we had cars running on natural gas, LPG, > petrol and ethanol. In the end the 100% ethanol caused to much > problems for existing cars, natural gas was to expensive and > bothersome to store so only petrol (later mixed with a certain amount > of ethanol) and LPG remained practical as they had done so before. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Bob Spidell wrote: >> Wonder what this'll do to our Healeys. I've probably run 10% gasahol >> through my BJ8-you never really know what's coming out of the >> pump--and survived, but the 'run too hot' part concerns me. >> >> http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/05/business/energy-environment/05ethanol.html?hpw >> >> >> -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 19:19:26 2010 From: gilbert gauthier To: Healey List Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 20:59:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at the 1000 Miglia Six Healeys will be at the big party in Italy. http://www.millemiglia.it/inglese/home.html Good luck !!! Next year maybe..... Gilbert Gauthier Diligui au site internet http://www.austinhealeyquebec.com/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of inconnu.jpg] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 19:19:50 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 20:05:09 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] MGC vs AH motors, not Distributor << I"m not sure how you compensate for it, but they are not going to try to sell me a new distributor, and that counts for something. >> Whilst I also have no idea of how they "compensated" and the "not selling a new one" DOES 'count' perhaps the "lack of knowledge" does count, Jack ?? If your 'situation' was mine and I had ANY 'doubts' about a dizzy, I would have them send it off to Jeff at Advance and have it re-built and then KNOW that the original problem[s] is NOT the dizzy. But that's just me. -:) Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 19:33:01 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 20:08:18 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel repair << He was highly recommended to me by Alan Hendrix. Pretty good endorsement IMHO. :-) >> Absolutely AGREE, Randy !! -:) Where the location any different excluding Left Coast, I would [and have] use Dayton WW. FANTASTIC work and product. Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 19:33:18 2010 From: "John Soderling" To: "Dr. C. Rubino" , "healeylist" Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 18:10:20 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires I've had Kumho tires on my Erika for six years (15,000 miles) now and they they are great. Good ride, great wearing and terrific traction. I recently put them on my SUV. The best value. Kumho makes highly respected racing tires too. Vrooom vrooom, John Erika the Red -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dr. C. Rubino" Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 2:08 PM To: "healeylist" Subject: [Healeys] tires > anybody out there have experience with kumho tires, good or bad. > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4(L) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@astound.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 19:34:36 2010 From: John Vrugtman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 21:11:35 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 window glass / door rubber seal I use some baby powder rubbed in the seal, works for me. John BJ8s On 5/5/2010 6:10 PM, andy pole wrote: > Top man! > > I like the easy fixes, and they are not usually that easy. Shame I still had > to take the window out and replace the runner! (that little voice kept saying > just wind it up whats the worst that can happen). I will give it a try before > I cut the holes in the door cards and fit. > > cheers Rich > > thanks Andy _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 19:34:52 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 20:17:00 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires redux << ...and I can control it (and have fun with it) if I get a little bit of a slide feel with 165s. YMMV >> Not in my case/experience, Greg. In fact I agree with you 100%. I might add that last year I had a chance for a little "playing" with another BJ-7 with Road Speeds fitted. EXACTLY like I remember a NEW BT-7 I got to play with MANY years ago -:) -:) !!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the ..For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 21:40:13 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: austin healey Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 22:14:53 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires << I had Hendrix Wire Wheels do the mounting, balancing and truing of the wheels... >> And THAT says a LOT, Terry -:) -:) -:) !!!!!!! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 21:41:16 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeylist Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 22:21:35 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ugh << Our modern cars are getting poorer gas mileage with 10% alcohol, which means they're putting our more CO2. >> My wife's Malibu Maxx has had WORSE reading than my '70 350cid El Camino, Tom -:) !!! Her 'test' is done via "on-board computer" vs the 'sniffer' [on dual exhausts -:)] for the Caminos !! Go figure !!! And to make matters WORSE, ILL adopted a "pre 1976 model year exemption", so ALL the rattle-trap/clunkers of the "pre 1976" rule do NOT get tested and one [such as me] can SEE that there is NO way those cars would 'pass' !!! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the ..For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 23:10:13 2010 From: To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 04:47:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?brake_fluid=28again=29?= just rebuilt a servo in a club members bj8. i now realize that the only brake flluid i have is synthetic, which is all that is available. this car has never had any of the brake or clutch parts rebuilt to her knowledge and she has owned it since picking it up at the factory in 1965. is this new brake fluid going to eat up all the old rubber, which i assume is natural rubber and not compatable with anything but the old castrol or lockheed type fluid? i guess i can warn her to beware, but sure would hate for her to lose her brakes again. anyone up on all this? hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 00:07:39 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net, "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 13:36:45 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake fluid(again) Jim - "Synthetic" Dot 3 or 4 is fine, it is the same old stuff, just rebranded. "Silicone" Dot 5 is what you need to be careful of. Very confusing, I know! Alan On 5/6/10, healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote: > just rebuilt a servo in a club members bj8. i now realize that the only > brake flluid i have is synthetic, which is all that is available. this car > has never had any of the brake or clutch parts rebuilt to her knowledge and > she has owned it since picking it up at the factory in 1965. is this new > brake fluid going to eat up all the old rubber, which i assume is natural > rubber and not compatable with anything but the old castrol or lockheed type > fluid? i guess i can warn her to beware, but sure would hate for her to > lose her brakes again. anyone up on all this? hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 00:54:10 2010 From: Ray Juncal To: List Healey Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 23:25:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100-M SU carbs I have been following the thread on 100-M carbs. I happen to be in the process of rebuilding two pairs of H-6s on 100-M manifolds. I have had both sets since the early seventies I don't think anyone was reproducing "M" manifolds at that time so I think they are legit. The carbs came with the manifolds so the chances are good they may be correct also. The carbs have the "AUC 6040 X" number but I cant see any other hand etched numbers. On my H-4s there is a small plinth with hand etched "6000"numbers but the H-6s have no such dedicated number location. Exactly where should I look for the hand etched numbers? The bodies of the carbs I have only have one of the mounting bosses machined off. All four bodies have three bosses. According to previous posts, three bosses should have been removed leaving only one. Is that correct. If these carbs are not 100-Ms what could they be? maybe from a 100-6 or 3000? I have tried to find photos of a 100-M engine showing the carbs in the books I have without much luck. Not enough detail. My cars are kind of bitzas so the info is more interest than necessity. Anyone have anything to add?Ray Juncal _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 01:08:50 2010 From: Derek Job To: Herbert Miller Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 08:51:45 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glass washer bottle Herb Trafalgar was the model name. The bottles were manufactured by John Sydney. Check on the bottle top on my web site at this page http://www.healeysix.net/Longbridge2.htm cheers Derek On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:29 AM, Herbert Miller wrote: > I have seen the name "Trafalgar" associated with glass windshield washer > bottles, so I checked on the one I have. Trafalgar no. It has "Manufactured > by John Sydney LTD" on the metal lid. > > Dimensionally it fits the hole in the parcel shelf perfectly. The metal > bracket clamps to the bottle with ears as to sit in the shelf hole. Is this > even for a Healey? > > > > Herb Miller > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 01:54:52 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Herbert Miller , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 15:25:27 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glass washer bottle Herb - That bottle is for early BN4s, if I'm not mistaken. Rare as rocking horse s**t. Some list people will probably want to buy that off of you! Alan On 5/6/10, Herbert Miller wrote: > I have seen the name "Trafalgar" associated with glass windshield washer > bottles, so I checked on the one I have. Trafalgar no. It has "Manufactured > by John Sydney LTD" on the metal lid. > > Dimensionally it fits the hole in the parcel shelf perfectly. The metal > bracket clamps to the bottle with ears as to sit in the shelf hole. Is this > even for a Healey? > > > > Herb Miller > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 01:55:30 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Skip Besaw Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 09:29:54 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire Wheel repair If you have several broken spokes it may be wiser to get new wheels or have the existing ones rebuild with new spokes, because of metal fatigue being the reason the spokes broke. The metal fatigue has not affected the broken spokes only, but all spokes. If you replace the broken spokes only you may soon find other spokes failing. Kees Oudesluijs NL Skip Besaw wrote: > Does anyone know who is capable of replacing spokes on 60 spoke wire wheels in > MA or RI or Southern NH? I have three wheels with 5, 2 and 2 broken spokes > respectively. I have the replacement spokes but can't find = > anyone who can do the work. Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 02:12:18 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Editorgary@aol.com Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 09:42:11 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires redux Gary, Very true, although it is probably not width only but if you go to low section tires the problem gets worse as well, even on narrow tires. Another thing is that you have to play around with tire pressures. Different size tires (even makes) may need a different than standard tire pressure. Wider tires on spoked rims does not seem to be a good idea either. Why? The rims are to narrow and perhaps they flex a bit, thus influencing road behaviour? If you want wide tires, fit 6" or 7" wide alloys. Kees Oudesluijs NL Editorgary@aol.com wrote: > One more comment in the mix. The wider the tires, in my experience having > driven on a lot of different cars) and the stickier the tread compound, the > more likely the car will feel squirrely on rain grooves (it's call > tram-lining, incidentally, in the motor press, going back to when tires would get hung > up in the trolley tracks). That's one of the reasons I prefer a higher, > narrower tire for the Healey, with a harder compound. Folks who choose to run > 185s, or worse, 205s, may think they look cool, but they are imho buying > trouble. > > Cheers > Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 02:12:47 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Jack Feldman Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 09:50:52 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] MGC vs AH motors, not Distributor Jack, You cannot compensate for weak springs, other than retarding the ignition, thus causing the engine to run acceptabely in the midrange area, but with a retarded ignition in the higher rpm, hard on the exhaust valves. The only cure is to fit new springs or a new distributor. A 123 ignition distributor would be a good choice as it has several ignition curves to play with and it is not overly expensive. Kees Oudesluijs NL Jack Feldman wrote: > Much thanks to all who shared their wisdom. > > One problem in trying to deal with this long distance, it it is going > through a non mechanical person. > > When I queried the shop, the answer was weak springs, but "we compensated > for it", and the car now runs to the mechanics satisfaction. I"m not sure > how you compensate for it, but they are not going to try to sell me a new > distributor, and that counts for something. > > Thanks again. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 02:25:08 2010 From: Oudesluys To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 09:57:19 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake fluid(again) Synthetic brake fluid does not mean incompatible with old brake systems. Avoid DOT5 (silicon type fluid), but use DOT4, and all should be well. Kees Oudesluijs NL healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote: > just rebuilt a servo in a club members bj8. i now realize that the only brake flluid i have is synthetic, which is all that is available. this car has never had any of the brake or clutch parts rebuilt to her knowledge and she has owned it since picking it up at the factory in 1965. is this new brake fluid going to eat up all the old rubber, which i assume is natural rubber and not compatable with anything but the old castrol or lockheed type fluid? i guess i can warn her to beware, but sure would hate for her to lose her brakes again. anyone up on all this? hjim > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 02:25:31 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Healey Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 16:11:54 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Petrol Tank Repair Kit? All - This is for my Atlantic which has a petrol tank that is best repaired rather than somehow fabricated and replaced. My tank is in good shape, but the inside is prone to rust. I am thinking that I should use a proper repair kit on it. I notice that POR-15 has a pretty nice kit, and I was wondering if any of you have had experience with this kit? http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/FTRK/ I just want to stop the rust in there.... Any ideas welcome. Thanks, Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 03:23:14 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: Alan Seigrist Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 18:57:54 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petrol Tank Repair Kit? Hi Alan, POR15 kit works fine, PROVIDED you follow the instructions AND make sure you eg grease any threads in the tank (eg drain plug, sender etc) and blow the fuel pickup with low pressure air (repeatedly) BEFORE the POR sets (ie when the POR is still wet). Otherwise, you won't get your drain plug out if you left it in; and if you block the fuel pickup with POR, clearing it after the POR has set is probably not easy.... Worked fine for me when I had a STD tank in the BJ8 Chris Sent from my iPhone On 06/05/2010, at 6:11 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > This is for my Atlantic which has a petrol tank that is best > repaired rather > than somehow fabricated and replaced. > > My tank is in good shape, but the inside is prone to rust. I am > thinking > that I should use a proper repair kit on it. > > I notice that POR-15 has a pretty nice kit, and I was wondering if > any of > you have had experience with this kit? > > http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/FTRK/ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 03:40:55 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: "healeymanjim@hansencc.net" Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 19:07:49 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake fluid(again) Jim, Seriously, the entire brake system and rubbers are 45 years old??? Never been touched? And you'd hate for her to lose her brakes again??? Geez, if thats the case, dont rebuild them now, just wait another 5 years (until they are 50) and throw them a birthday party!!!! ;-) Tongue in cheek Sent from my iPhone On 06/05/2010, at 2:47 PM, wrote: > just rebuilt a servo in a club members bj8. i now realize that the > only brake flluid i have is synthetic, which is all that is > available. this car has never had any of the brake or clutch parts > rebuilt to her knowledge and she has owned it since picking it up at > the factory in 1965. is this new brake fluid going to eat up all > the old rubber, which i assume is natural rubber and not compatable > with anything but the old castrol or lockheed type fluid? i guess i > can warn her to beware, but sure would hate for her to lose her > brakes again. anyone up on all this? hjim > ______________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 04:52:00 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Alan Seigrist Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 12:26:32 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petrol Tank Repair Kit? Alan, Make sure all petrol vapour is removed by rinsing the tank with hot water and washing up liquid and afterwards with clean cold water. Before you use any product, clean out any rust inside the tank. Best have it done chemically in an accid bath (I think they use a mixture of Sulphur acid and Phosfor accid) or alternatively do it yourself mechanically by inserting sharp sand, fine-medium fine gravel and water and shake in various positions using e.g. a cement mixer for a few hours. Then rinse out thoroughly, blow dry hot for several hours, buy your wife a new hair dryer. If some welding or brazing is neccesary, do it now and clean again using some gravel and sand and perhaps another hair dryer. After all the prep work you can apply the POR-15 or similar. Kees Oudesluijs NL Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > This is for my Atlantic which has a petrol tank that is best repaired rather > than somehow fabricated and replaced. > > My tank is in good shape, but the inside is prone to rust. I am thinking > that I should use a proper repair kit on it. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 07:20:18 2010 From: Kent McLean To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 13:00:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Red Healey in AAA TripTik Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > Yes, that car is on istock. > > http://tinyurl.com/2bqzu8h Nice. Except they don't know a 100 from a Tickford: -- Kent McLean A-H 100 BN-2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 07:36:50 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Ray Juncal Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 06:15:04 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-M SU carbs I give up. What's a 'bitza?' bs Ray Juncal wrote: > I have been following the thread on 100-M carbs. I happen to be in the > process of rebuilding two pairs of H-6s on 100-M manifolds. I have had both > sets since the early seventies I don't think anyone was reproducing "M" > manifolds at that time so I think they are legit. The carbs came with the > manifolds so the chances are good they may be correct also. The carbs have > the "AUC 6040 X" number but I cant see any other hand etched numbers. On my > H-4s there is a small plinth with hand etched "6000"numbers but the H-6s have > no such dedicated number location. Exactly where should I look for the hand > etched numbers? The bodies of the carbs I have only have one of the > mounting bosses machined off. All four bodies have three bosses. According > to previous posts, three bosses should have been removed leaving only one. Is > that correct. If these carbs are not 100-Ms what could they be? maybe from a > 100-6 or 3000? I have tried to find > photos of a 100-M engine showing the carbs in the books I have without much > luck. Not enough detail. My cars are kind of bitzas so the info is more > interest than necessity. Anyone have anything to add?Ray Juncal > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 08:06:45 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Chris Dimmock Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 06:41:54 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petrol Tank Repair Kit? POR15 works on STDs? Must be an off-label application. bs Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hi Alan, > POR15 kit works fine, PROVIDED you follow the instructions AND make > sure you eg grease any threads in the tank (eg drain plug, sender etc) > and blow the fuel pickup with low pressure air (repeatedly) BEFORE the > POR sets (ie when the POR is still wet). Otherwise, you won't get your > drain plug out if you left it in; and if you block the fuel pickup > with POR, clearing it after the POR has set is probably not easy.... > Worked fine for me when I had a STD tank in the BJ8 > Chris > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 08:35:40 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Bob Spidell Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 07:18:14 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-M SU carbs Bob, "Bitza" Bits of this and bits of that. On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 6:15 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I give up. What's a 'bitza?' > > > bs > > > > Ray Juncal wrote: > >> I have been following the thread on 100-M carbs. I happen to be in the >> process of rebuilding two pairs of H-6s on 100-M manifolds. I have had >> both >> sets since the early seventies I don't think anyone was reproducing "M" >> manifolds at that time so I think they are legit. The carbs came with the >> manifolds so the chances are good they may be correct also. The carbs >> have >> the "AUC 6040 X" number but I cant see any other hand etched numbers. On >> my >> H-4s there is a small plinth with hand etched "6000"numbers but the H-6s >> have >> no such dedicated number location. Exactly where should I look for the >> hand >> etched numbers? The bodies of the carbs I have only have one of the >> mounting bosses machined off. All four bodies have three bosses. >> According >> to previous posts, three bosses should have been removed leaving only one. >> Is >> that correct. If these carbs are not 100-Ms what could they be? maybe >> from a >> 100-6 or 3000? I have tried to find >> photos of a 100-M engine showing the carbs in the books I have without >> much >> luck. Not enough detail. My cars are kind of bitzas so the info is >> more >> interest than necessity. Anyone have anything to add?Ray Juncal >> >> > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 08:49:42 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Bob Spidell Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 22:24:35 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-M SU carbs bitza this, bitza that Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 9:15 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I give up. What's a 'bitza?' > > > bs > > > > Ray Juncal wrote: > >> I have been following the thread on 100-M carbs. I happen to be in the >> process of rebuilding two pairs of H-6s on 100-M manifolds. I have had >> both >> sets since the early seventies I don't think anyone was reproducing "M" >> manifolds at that time so I think they are legit. The carbs came with the >> manifolds so the chances are good they may be correct also. The carbs >> have >> the "AUC 6040 X" number but I cant see any other hand etched numbers. On >> my >> H-4s there is a small plinth with hand etched "6000"numbers but the H-6s >> have >> no such dedicated number location. Exactly where should I look for the >> hand >> etched numbers? The bodies of the carbs I have only have one of the >> mounting bosses machined off. All four bodies have three bosses. >> According >> to previous posts, three bosses should have been removed leaving only one. >> Is >> that correct. If these carbs are not 100-Ms what could they be? maybe >> from a >> 100-6 or 3000? I have tried to find >> photos of a 100-M engine showing the carbs in the books I have without >> much >> luck. Not enough detail. My cars are kind of bitzas so the info is >> more >> interest than necessity. Anyone have anything to add?Ray Juncal >> >> > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 09:06:53 2010 From: "Herbert Miller" To: "'Derek Job'" Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 09:45:54 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glass washer bottle Thanks Derek; I have found the source of my confusion. The name Trafalgar is in the center of the metal cap, and is not visible on my example because of corrosion. I will generate photos and dimensions later today. Herb Miller 1960 AN5 1962 BT7 1967 BJ8 From: Derek Job [mailto:derek.c.job@gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 1:52 AM To: Herbert Miller Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glass washer bottle Herb Trafalgar was the model name. The bottles were manufactured by John Sydney. Check on the bottle top on my web site at this page http://www.healeysix.net/Longbridge2.htm cheers Derek On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:29 AM, Herbert Miller wrote: I have seen the name "Trafalgar" associated with glass windshield washer bottles, so I checked on the one I have. Trafalgar no. It has "Manufactured by John Sydney LTD" on the metal lid. Dimensionally it fits the hole in the parcel shelf perfectly. The metal bracket clamps to the bottle with ears as to sit in the shelf hole. Is this even for a Healey? Herb Miller _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 11:06:57 2010 From: MBran89793@aol.com To: MBran89793@aol.com, tahoehealey@hotmail.com, ampole@hotmail.com, Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 12:50:44 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 window glass / door rubber seal Hi Rich- I had a similar problem with the window rubber strips on my BJ8. After having tried several different rubber lubricants it was suggested that I try Armor All-Protectant. First I lowered the windows all the way down. Using my fingers I applied the Armor All- Protectant to the rubber strip on both the under and upper surfaces. Rolled the window up and let it set over night. The next day when I tried to lower the window much to my surprise it worked just they should. What a dummy I am. After having represented Armor All in the mid '70 in the Southeastern states I should have known that it works wonders on almost anything rubber, Marion S. Brantley, Jr. Tampa Bay AHC Delegate/ Membership Chairman (I have the exact problem you stated. I wont have the car on the road 'till next week but I had planned to use some rubber lubricant and clean and wax the windows to see if it improves the "drag". The old rubber was tapered but this new stuff from Moss is stiff. It curls in as the window goes down. I've been meaning to call Moss but I have too many other issues in getting back on the road. I didn't like the felt strip the sent me either. Rich Kahn) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 11:38:17 2010 From: Ray Juncal To: jomar healey Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 10:21:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-M SU carbs Thanks Joe. The pictures are just what I needed.My carbs look right but have no hand etching. I wonder what they came off of? Ray --- On Thu, 5/6/10, jomar healey wrote: From: jomar healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-M SU carbs To: "Ray Juncal" Date: Thursday, May 6, 2010, 4:33 AM Ray This site has some pictures that might help. http://www.foreverhealeys.com/M/Documentation2/Austin%20Healey100MWelcome.htm http://www.foreverhealeys.com/M/Sarah/MNumbers.htm Joe BNN1 #923 Coronet Cream BN2 100M BJ8 The Blue Baby as per wife and kid --- On Thu, 5/6/10, Ray Juncal wrote: From: Ray Juncal Subject: [Healeys] 100-M SU carbs To: "List Healey" Date: Thursday, May 6, 2010, 2:25 AM I have been following the thread on 100-M carbs. I happen to be in the process of rebuilding two pairs of H-6s on 100-M manifolds. I have had both sets since the early seventies I don't think anyone was reproducing "M" manifolds at that time so I think they are legit. The carbs came with the manifolds so the chances are good they may be correct also. The carbs have the "AUC 6040 X" number but I cant see any other hand etched numbers. On my H-4s there is a small plinth with hand etched "6000"numbers but the H-6s have no such dedicated number location. Exactly where should I look for the hand etched numbers? The bodies of the carbs I have only have one of the mounting bosses machined off. All four bodies have three bosses. According to previous posts, three bosses should have been removed leaving only one. Is that correct. If these carbs are not 100-Ms what could they be? maybe from a 100-6 or 3000? I have tried to find photos of a 100-M engine showing the carbs in the books I have without much luck. Not enough detail. My cars are kind of bitzas so the info is more interest than necessity. Anyone have anything to add?Ray Juncal _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah53@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 11:54:21 2010 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: "Randall" , Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 10:26:50 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glass washer bottle Glass bottle dimensions Height: 7.625" OD 3.93" Neck OD 2.20" Neck ID 1.825" Neck length to start of fillet/radius 1.35 Body length (to start of roundover) 5.2" Wilko _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 11:56:00 2010 From: Richard Kahn To: Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 10:30:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet installation question In the Moss installation tape, they show the seat runners mounted over the carpet. Some carpet kits come with slits cut for the runners. As I have the Moss kit which has no cut outs should the runners be mounted over the carpet? The carpet I took out (not original) had the cut outs. Thanks for any help. Rich Kahn _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 12:53:51 2010 From: andy pole To: , Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 18:17:10 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet installation question Rich I know Rich C covered it well in the archives, basically the black metal plates and snap bases hold the jute down, whilst the carpet is trimmed around, therefore giving enough clearance for the seat runners to move: quote: >From the floor up, here goes..... -painted floor -heavy felt paper (black tarpaper)covering flat floor areas -thin layer of burlap looking jute underlay covering flat floor areas -black painted steel strips about 1 1/2" wide x 17" long with the 3 clearance holes for sleeved seat track nuts -wood spacer strip for seat tracks -seat tracks with sleeved nuts passing from underside through floor, steel packing plate and wood packing strip, etc. onto seat track studs. -carpet piece that goes under seat is slotted to clear seat track assemblies and installs from the rear, sliding forward under seat. This carpet piece goes only to approx. front edge of seat tracks. -carpet is held in place on floor by 4 ring type female carpet snaps passing through carpet and snapping onto male studs screwed through jute, etc. into steel floor. NO GLUE on floor or tunnel carpets. They need to be able to snap out to dry when you get them wet. Hope this helps. Rich The original Karvel carpet was not bound at the edges. I have taken quite a few pics of my installation. How did the window winders work out? cheers Andy _________________________________________________________________ http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 12:55:57 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: 4 - Healeys Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 13:22:29 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-M SU carbs << The pictures are just what I needed >> Just to "add" to your info Ray, be SURE to check out "AH BN 1 Carbs" on Front Page of my site -:) !! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 15:57:14 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 21:23:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] dumb question ... A 'UN' (rich) SU needle should enrichen the mixture compared to a standard needle, correct? bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 17:30:01 2010 From: HealeyRick To: healeys@autox.team.net, Kent McLean Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 16:00:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Red Healey in AAA TripTik I'm surprised they still make up TripTiks. Would've thought nav systems would've ended that. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Thu, 5/6/10, Kent McLean wrote: From: Kent McLean Subject: Re: [Healeys] Red Healey in AAA TripTik To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thursday, May 6, 2010, 9:00 AM Eric (Rick) Wilkins wrote: > Yes, that car is on istock. > > http://tinyurl.com/2bqzu8h Nice. Except they don't know a 100 from a Tickford: -- Kent McLean A-H 100 BN-2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 17:44:37 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 19:24:09 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet installation question After you get caught in your first heavy rain fall with your top down your gonna wish you could pull your carpet out to hang it out to dry. Think a head. To keep your floors dry, everything should be able to come out to keep moisture down. Or go concours and stay moist. Its your car, do it the way you want. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Kahn" To: Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 1:30 PM Subject: [Healeys] Carpet installation question > In the Moss installation tape, they show the seat runners mounted over the > carpet. Some carpet kits come with slits cut for the runners. As I have > the > Moss kit which has no cut outs should the runners be mounted over the > carpet? > The carpet I took out (not original) had the cut outs. > Thanks for any help. > Rich Kahn > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your > inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 19:40:52 2010 From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 18:21:07 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Red Healey in AAA TripTik Rick: I'm sure you do not believe that everyone with an automobile has, or wants, a nav system. There was a segment on local TV the other night where some people who bought a new Toyota Prius and paid a couple of hundred dollars for the Toyota nav system found out that their home addresses, along with other locations, were not found on the system. They did not live out in the boonies or in new subdivisions. For this reason, and for the people that have been sent to wrong locations by their nav systems, some into lakes or dead-end streets, a good map is still the way to go. I'm sorry that I didn't save this for this e-mail: "If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there" (Lewis Carroll) ;-) (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "HealeyRick" To: ; "Kent McLean" Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 4:00 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Red Healey in AAA TripTik > I'm surprised they still make up TripTiks. Would've thought nav systems > would've ended that. > > Rick _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 20:30:02 2010 From: MBran89793@aol.com To: john@jharper.demon.co.uk, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 22:06:36 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funnies-COMPUTER PROBLEMS] (If you don't care for Friday Funnies by all means PLEASE Press DELETE.) COMPUTER PROBLEMS As we Silver Surfers know, sometimes we have trouble with our computers. I had a problem yesterday, so I called Eric, the 11 year old next door, whose bedroom looks like Mission Control and asked him to come over. Eric clicked a couple of buttons and solved the problem. As he was walking away, I called after him, 'So, what was wrong? He replied, 'It was an ID ten T error.' I didn't want to appear stupid, but nonetheless inquired, 'An, ID ten T error? What's that? In case I need to fix it again.' Eric grinned.... 'Haven't you ever heard of an ID ten T error before? 'No,' I replied. 'Write it down,' he said, 'and I think you'll figure it out.' So I wrote down: ID10T I used to like Eric, the little bastard, _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 21:14:43 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Richard Kahn" Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 22:51:44 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet installation question The carpets are cut around the seat runners so they can be unsnapped and removed to dry in the event that they get wet. The underlay is trapped and packed under the seat runners and packing plates so it will clear the runners. Rich > In the Moss installation tape, they show the seat runners mounted over the > carpet. Some carpet kits come with slits cut for the runners. As I have > the > Moss kit which has no cut outs should the runners be mounted over the > carpet? > The carpet I took out (not original) had the cut outs. > Thanks for any help. > Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 21:56:23 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Healeys Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 22:29:51 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] MGC vs AH motors, not Distributor Kees, not quite 'correct' -:) !! << The only cure is to fit new springs or a new distributor. >> On this side of the Pond we are VERY fortunate to have a chap with a business called Advance Distributors up in Minn. A total GENIUS when it comes to LBC distributors !! I have yet to hear of a unit he could not repair or, at least have a solution -:) -:) -:) !!!! NFI, YMMV, FYI, HTHs, yada, yada, etc. !! Ed PS: And I DID tell Jack to have his son's unit shipped .........off to Jeff in a PM shortly after Jack's 1st post!! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 22:45:25 2010 From: Ray Juncal To: Bob Spidell Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 21:15:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-M SU carbs A bitza this one and a bitza that one make a whole one.LOL Ray --- On Thu, 5/6/10, Bob Spidell wrote: From: Bob Spidell Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-M SU carbs To: "Ray Juncal" Cc: "List Healey" Date: Thursday, May 6, 2010, 6:15 AM I give up. What's a 'bitza?' bs Ray Juncal wrote: > I have been following the thread on 100-M carbs. I happen to be in the > process of rebuilding two pairs of H-6s on 100-M manifolds. I have had both > sets since the early seventies I don't think anyone was reproducing "M" > manifolds at that time so I think they are legit. The carbs came with the > manifolds so the chances are good they may be correct also. The carbs have > the "AUC 6040 X" number but I cant see any other hand etched numbers. On my > H-4s there is a small plinth with hand etched "6000"numbers but the H-6s have > no such dedicated number location. Exactly where should I look for the hand > etched numbers? The bodies of the carbs I have only have one of the > mounting bosses machined off. All four bodies have three bosses. According > to previous posts, three bosses should have been removed leaving only one. Is > that correct. If these carbs are not 100-Ms what could they be? maybe from a > 100-6 or 3000? I have tried to find > photos of a 100-M engine showing the carbs in the books I have without much > luck. Not enough detail. My cars are kind of bitzas so the info is more > interest than necessity. Anyone have anything to add?Ray Juncal > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 01:00:59 2010 From: "Keith Bailey" To: Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 16:30:26 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Dip Stick Hi All The dip stick on my BN1 is not the correct on for that engine none off the spare parts people stock them It would not be big job to correct the one I have.Could some one please send some dimension so I can modify the one I have got thanking you in anticipation Regards Keith _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 01:02:44 2010 From: Oudesluys To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 08:38:53 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] MGC vs AH motors, not Distributor Ed, That GENIUS of yours would have fitted new springs (for the balance weights). Cheers Kees Oudesluijs Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > Kees, not quite 'correct' -:) !! > > << The only cure is to fit new springs or a new distributor. >> > > On this side of the Pond we are VERY fortunate to > have a chap with a business called Advance Distributors > up in Minn. > > A total GENIUS when it comes to LBC distributors !! > > I have yet to hear of a unit he could not repair or, at > least have a solution -:) -:) -:) !!!! > > NFI, YMMV, FYI, HTHs, yada, yada, etc. !! > > Ed > > PS: And I DID tell Jack to have his son's unit shipped > .........off to Jeff in a PM shortly after Jack's 1st post!! > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 03:20:52 2010 From: Jaap Aeckerlin To: mgcharlie@comcast.net, Healey forum Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 10:45:14 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] LPG Charlie, in addition to Kees' answer regarding the use of LPG in Holland : the main reason for the popularity of LPG in our country is the price. Yesterday, filling up my gas tank, I noticed that the price of LPG is 40% of the price of standard 95 octane gas. In order to avoid the whole Dutch car fleet to be converted to LPG our Government, in their endless wisdom, decided that the road tax for non- petrol driven cars (so diesel and LPG) is far higher than for cars using petrol(gas). One therefore has to drive quite a distance in order to enjoy the relatively low price of LPG and to recuperate the costs of adding an LPG installation. BUT: as cars older than 25 years don't have to pay road tax it is very economical to drive a >25 years car on LPG. To give you an idea: I pay for my daily driver (2650 lbs) about $ 765 per year. Had it been an LPG driven car, I would have paid $ 1610! Regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/5/5 Oudesluys > Charlie Baldwin wrote: > >> Kees, >> Is it fairly common in The Netherlands to have cars running on LPG? The >> reason that I ask is that several years ago a Dutch vintage Volvo club was >> here in the US to tour across the country for several months. Some friends >> and I met up with them early in the tour in Gettysburg, PA. Most all of >> these car were equipped to run on LPG and most had to convert back to >> gasoline to do the tour here. These were Volvos from the late '50s & '60s >> generally which had SU carbs. >> One of the things that I wondered is where they hid the tanks for the LPG >> if they also had the original gasoline tank too. >> Charlie >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 06:46:07 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Healey List'" Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 06:23:29 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Pome......... just received from al moss _____ From: racermoss Subject: Pome There was a young man from Boston Who rode around town in his Austin. There was room for his ass And one gallon of gas But his balls hung out, so he lostem _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 07:28:58 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Dave Porter , Healey List Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 21:11:41 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Pome......... just received from al moss Not sure if I should laugh, or cry with sadness. On 5/7/10, Dave Porter wrote: > _____ > > From: racermoss Subject: Pome > > > > > > There was a young man from Boston > > > > Who rode around town in his Austin. > > > > There was room for his ass > > > > And one gallon of gas > > > > But his balls hung out, so he lostem > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 07:44:23 2010 From: Ken Taplin To: Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 09:21:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] seat belts I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not actually dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a rollover protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor says...DO NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. I feel vindicated. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 08:13:38 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Ken Taplin Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 21:55:47 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts Ken - A tractor and an Austin Healey are two completely different animals. I think you would be very hard pressed, unless you were racing, to flip an Austin Healey even if you had a failure in the drive train. With all the metal windows, dash, and a spear for a steering column (of which I have a friend killed by a solid column when he wasn't wearing his seatbelt in his Land Rover), I'd have to say yes, on the chance you roll snake eyes you'll roll over and have a 50/50 shot of getting killed, but there's the other 35 combinations of two dice which says wearing a seat belt is probably a good idea for staying alive & keeping your front teeth. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 9:21 PM, Ken Taplin wrote: > I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not actually > dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover > protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a rollover > protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor > says...DO > NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. > I feel vindicated. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 08:30:29 2010 From: Skip Besaw To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 10:03:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheel work in MA Thanks to all who replied to my email as to where in MA, SO. NH or RI I could find someone qualified to work on wire wheels. The recommendations of Fred at Wheel Repair Service of New England were great however a couple of messages to him have not resulted in return calls. I will wait a while but if anyone has other thoughts they would be appreciated. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 08:30:52 2010 From: warthodson@aol.com To: ktaplin@gwi.net, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 10:03:33 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts That is especially true when plowing fields with your Healey. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Ken Taplin To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 7, 2010 8:21 am Subject: [Healeys] seat belts I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not actually angerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover rotection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a rollover rotective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor says...DO OT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. feel vindicated. ______________________________________________ ealeys@autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 08:31:15 2010 From: Randy Hicks To: Ken Taplin Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 10:15:10 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts Unbelievable! Great Friday Funny! Randy Randy Hicks '56 100M '55 BN1 Dealer LeMans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M@gmail.com On May 7, 2010, at 9:21 AM, Ken Taplin wrote: > I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not actually > dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover > protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a rollover > protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor says...DO > NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. > I feel vindicated. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 08:47:16 2010 From: "Simon Lachlan" To: "'Alan Seigrist'" , "'Ken Taplin'" Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:26:06 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts Agreed. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: 07 May 2010 14:56 To: Ken Taplin Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts Ken - A tractor and an Austin Healey are two completely different animals. I think you would be very hard pressed, unless you were racing, to flip an Austin Healey even if you had a failure in the drive train. With all the metal windows, dash, and a spear for a steering column (of which I have a friend killed by a solid column when he wasn't wearing his seatbelt in his Land Rover), I'd have to say yes, on the chance you roll snake eyes you'll roll over and have a 50/50 shot of getting killed, but there's the other 35 combinations of two dice which says wearing a seat belt is probably a good idea for staying alive & keeping your front teeth. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 9:21 PM, Ken Taplin wrote: > I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not actually > dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover > protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a rollover > protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor > says...DO > NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. > I feel vindicated. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 09:20:18 2010 From: "Neil Anderson" To: "'Ken Taplin'" , Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 09:37:04 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts Ken, You may feel vindicated in your view, but there are many types of accidents that happen that don't involve rollovers in which your body can be thrown from the vehicle if not belted in. Flying through the air and hitting something rarely ends in good results. Would you not seat belt your ten year old kid in the car even with the absolute slightest possibility that you will rear end another car? No rollover......., but lots of damage to soft tissues! I wouldn't think of driving my Healey without my seat belt. When I drive a gymkhana, my 3" racing belt is pulled as tight as I can get it so I can drive the car instead of sloshing around in there. Your thinking goes against any safety standards in place. I hope we don't find your name on the Darwin Awards some time. Neil Anderson '60 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ken Taplin Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 8:21 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] seat belts I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not actually dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a rollover protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor says...DO NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. I feel vindicated. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 09:56:17 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Simon Lachlan Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:20:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts Note that tractors often (usually) flip over backwards. With tons of torque (some tractors have Healey engines), low gearing and huge rear wheels just pop the clutch with a heavy load--stump-pulling is a classic example--and you're on the ground with a large engine on top of you in about one-half second. I nearly did it once myself. Seat belts are useful in a Healey--it makes it easier for the coroner to determine who was driving. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Agreed. Simon Ken - A tractor and an Austin Healey are two completely different animals. I think you would be very hard pressed, unless you were racing, to flip an Austin Healey even if you had a failure in the drive train. With all the metal windows, dash, and a spear for a steering column (of which I have a friend killed by a solid column when he wasn't wearing his seatbelt in his Land Rover), I'd have to say yes, on the chance you roll snake eyes you'll roll over and have a 50/50 shot of getting killed, but there's the other 35 combinations of two dice which says wearing a seat belt is probably a good idea for staying alive & keeping your front teeth. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 9:21 PM, Ken Taplin wrote: > I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not actually > dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover > protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a rollover > protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor > says...DO > NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. > I feel vindicated. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 10:27:42 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Simon Lachlan Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 17:50:52 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts The chance that you will be killed or seriously harmed because of wearing a seatbelt in your car is far smaller than that the seatbelt will save your life. Wear them at all times. When you flip over, it will be just your bad luck. Kees Oudesluijs NL Simon Lachlan wrote: > Agreed. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: 07 May 2010 14:56 > To: Ken Taplin > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts > > Ken - > > A tractor and an Austin Healey are two completely different animals. I > think you would be very hard pressed, unless you were racing, to flip an > Austin Healey even if you had a failure in the drive train. > > With all the metal windows, dash, and a spear for a steering column (of > which I have a friend killed by a solid column when he wasn't wearing his > seatbelt in his Land Rover), I'd have to say yes, on the chance you roll > snake eyes you'll roll over and have a 50/50 shot of getting killed, but > there's the other 35 combinations of two dice which says wearing a seat belt > is probably a good idea for staying alive & keeping your front teeth. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > > On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 9:21 PM, Ken Taplin wrote: > > >> I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not actually >> dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover >> protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a rollover >> protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor >> says...DO >> NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. >> I feel vindicated. >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2859 - datum van uitgifte: 05/07/10 08:26:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 11:24:12 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Ken Taplin , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 11:51:04 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts OK---but come back and talk to me after you have crashed through the windshield and lost much of your face. A tractor isn't quite as fast as a car, so they can afford to say thet. tom ---- Ken Taplin wrote: ============= I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not actually dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a rollover protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor says...DO NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. I feel vindicated. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 13:04:40 2010 From: David Nock To: Ken Taplin Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 11:09:56 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts I have had two ocassions to witness a Healey accident and seatbelts. First time a driver in front of me went off the road and hit the side of a mountian. They were wearing lap belts. The driver hit the steering wheel in the chest, the passenger to the dash to the face. I have since installed shoulder belts in both of their Healey's. Second incedent was a customer that had purchased our retractable lap belts. He returned the next day and didnt like the look of the belt retractors. I convinced him that it was better to have ugly retractors and be alive than to have no seat belts and dead. So he returned home with his retractable shoulder belts. Then later that day he was on a drive out in the Marin Headlands. He lost control and launched the car over a cliff. Some of you may remember the article from the San Francisco Chronicle about 7 years ago that was sent around the list. The steering wheel was crushed down to the drivers seat and the car burned up. Both the driver and the passenger crawled away and survived. The driver had a broken back along with many other injuries. He has now restored another car. If you want to see a photo of this I can send on along. I promise you it will convince you that a seat belt is definitly a good idea. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On May 7, 2010, at 6:21 AM, Ken Taplin wrote: > I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not > actually > dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover > protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a > rollover > protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor > says...DO > NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. > I feel vindicated. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 14:10:02 2010 From: HealeyRick To: Ken Taplin , healeys@autox.team.net, Tom Felts Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 12:13:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts OR... to put it another way, look around your Healey and pick out the things you'd like your face to smash into. The only person I ever saw successfully eschew the use of seat belts was the late Masten Gregory who had a penchant for jumping out of his cars just prior to the crash. Just to add a little more controversy, I'm not even sure lap belts alone are sufficient protection in a Healey. In a front-end collision wearing only lap belts, the body tends to bend forward at the waist, throwing the chest into the "javelin" of the steering column. I'll be putting three point harnesses in mine. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 5/7/10, Tom Felts wrote: From: Tom Felts Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts To: "Ken Taplin" , healeys@autox.team.net Cc: "Ken Taplin" Date: Friday, May 7, 2010, 12:51 PM OK---but come back and talk to me after you have crashed through the windshield and lost much of your face. A tractor isn't quite as fast as a car, so they can afford to say thet. tom ---- Ken Taplin wrote: ============= I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not actually dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a rollover protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor says...DO NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. I feel vindicated. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 14:12:22 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Ken Taplin Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 12:28:29 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts So back in the day a buddy of mine bought a used Sprite for the going rate of $500. The DPO took the belts out, so the first trip after school was to Pep Boys to buy belts. On the way home my buddy decided to take the windy road. He blew a tire in a corner and hit an oak tree dead square. The driver bounced off the steering wheel with some cracked ribs. The passenger went through the windshield. The headlights of the Sprite pointed at each other. To get glass out of your face they rub a cotton ball til it snags then use tweezers to pull the glass out. The passenger claims it felt like they used coarse steel wool and vice grips. So if you don't believe in seat belts for roadsters try putting your face through a windshield then see if your opinion changes. $.02 Rick Sent from my iPhone On May 7, 2010, at 6:21, Ken Taplin wrote: > I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not > actually > dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover > protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a > rollover > protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor > says...DO > NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. > I feel vindicated. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 14:38:47 2010 From: Charlie Baldwin To: David Nock Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 15:45:30 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts David, Why don't you post any pictures to the forum and we can look at our leisure and you will only need to send it one place? To find the forum, go to the bottom of this email and click on the link to the forums, find the Healey one and post there. I think that you will need to register, but that's easy and free. Thanks. Charlie David Nock wrote: > I have had two ocassions to witness a Healey accident and seatbelts. > > First time a driver in front of me went off the road and hit the > side of a mountian. They were wearing lap belts. The driver hit the > steering wheel in the chest, the passenger to the dash to the face. I > have since installed shoulder belts in both of their Healey's. > > Second incedent was a customer that had purchased our retractable lap > belts. He returned the next day and didnt like the look of the belt > retractors. I convinced him that it was better to have ugly > retractors and be alive than to have no seat belts and dead. So he > returned home with his retractable shoulder belts. Then later that > day he was on a drive out in the Marin Headlands. He lost control and > launched the car over a cliff. Some of you may remember the article > from the San Francisco Chronicle about 7 years ago that was sent > around the list. The steering wheel was crushed down to the drivers > seat and the car burned up. Both the driver and the passenger crawled > away and survived. The driver had a broken back along with many other > injuries. He has now restored another car. > > If you want to see a photo of this I can send on along. I promise you > it will convince you that a seat belt is definitly a good idea. > > > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca 95205 > 209-948-8767 > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > . > . > > On May 7, 2010, at 6:21 AM, Ken Taplin wrote: > > >> I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not >> actually >> dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover >> protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a >> rollover >> protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor >> says...DO >> NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. >> I feel vindicated. >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ >> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie@comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 15:04:22 2010 From: "Guy R Day" To: "Ken Taplin" , Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 21:24:36 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts I have maintained for years that tractors have a higher centre of gravity than a LBC and because of this are easier to turn over on a sideslope. Ask yourself in how many accidents you roll over as opposed to having a nose to tail shunt? Now, I too feel vindicated. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Taplin" To: Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 2:21 PM Subject: [Healeys] seat belts >I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not actually > dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover > protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a rollover > protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor > says...DO > NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. > I feel vindicated. > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 15:04:45 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Richard Ewald Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 22:29:41 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts In the late 70's I worked for TNO, the Dutch equivalent of NHTSA, with whom we worked together in a crash test dummy program. I got heavily involved in crash testing, accident investigation, homologation and consumer testing of seat belts, crash helmets, child seats etc. Before I never used to wear seatbelts, did not believe in them. It only lasted one day at TNO though... In the rare occasion that I do not put them on immediately now I feel there is something not right as by instinct. Kees Oudesluijs NL Richard Ewald wrote: > So back in the day a buddy of mine bought a used Sprite for the going > rate of $500. The DPO took the belts out, so the first trip after > school was to Pep Boys to buy belts. > On the way home my buddy decided to take the windy road. He blew a > tire in a corner and hit an oak tree dead square. > The driver bounced off the steering wheel with some cracked ribs. The > passenger went through the windshield. The headlights of the Sprite > pointed at each other. > To get glass out of your face they rub a cotton ball til it snags then > use tweezers to pull the glass out. The passenger claims it felt like > they used coarse steel wool and vice grips. > So if you don't believe in seat belts for roadsters try putting your > face through a windshield then see if your opinion changes. > $.02 > Rick > > Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 15:36:50 2010 From: "Dan Stromquist" To: Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:46:52 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] dumb question ... Bob: I asked the same question and was told the needle circumference enriched the mixture only at higher RPMs and that at idle or near idle the needle was the same as standard. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 4:24 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] dumb question ... A 'UN' (rich) SU needle should enrichen the mixture compared to a standard needle, correct? bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan@warner-associates.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 15:37:53 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 16:50:24 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Fluid To make the numbering system on brake fluid even more confusing, DOT 5.1 is a non-silicone brake fluid, which is compatible with DOT 4 (and DOT 3, which I don't think is even sold any more.) Castrol GT-LMA is rated as DOT 5.1 and is an excellent choice for systems that have not been switched to silicone DOT 5 brake fluid. It has excellent moisture management and heat tolerance characteristics. But please, folks, let's not get started on preferences for silicone versus non-silicone fluids. If the car has never had its brake fluid changed, then it hasn't had the seals changed either, and should get replacement non-silicone (Dot 4 or Dot 5.1) fluid. Cheers gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 15:41:30 2010 From: "Dan Stromquist" To: Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:55:33 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet installation question I just read the standards the other day and they allow one to cut out around the floor snaps so you can remove and dry the under jute and carpet both. Go for the gold. Dan -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark LaPierre Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 6:24 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet installation question After you get caught in your first heavy rain fall with your top down your gonna wish you could pull your carpet out to hang it out to dry. Think a head. To keep your floors dry, everything should be able to come out to keep moisture down. Or go concours and stay moist. Its your car, do it the way you want. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Kahn" To: Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 1:30 PM Subject: [Healeys] Carpet installation question > In the Moss installation tape, they show the seat runners mounted over the > carpet. Some carpet kits come with slits cut for the runners. As I have > the > Moss kit which has no cut outs should the runners be mounted over the > carpet? > The carpet I took out (not original) had the cut outs. > Thanks for any help. > Rich Kahn > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your > inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:W L > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan@warner-associates.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 16:12:09 2010 From: "Peter Linn" To: "Keith Bailey" , Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 07:36:24 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Dip Stick Hi Keith The measurements for the one in the Ward Spl are as follows: Total length from tip to base of handle "loop": 450mm Length from tip to top of tube on block (ie length of stick inserted in tube/sump): 365mm Distance from tip to "low" mark: 77mm Distance from tip to "full" mark: 87mm Cheers Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Bailey" To: Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 4:30 PM Subject: [Healeys] Engine Dip Stick > Hi All > The dip stick on my BN1 is not the correct on for that engine none > off > the spare parts people stock them > It would not be big job to correct the one I have.Could some one > please send some dimension so I can > modify the one I have got thanking you in anticipation > Regards Keith _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 17:08:40 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Editorgary@aol.com Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 22:18:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Fluid re: " (and DOT 3, which I don't think is even sold any more.)" I sure hope it's still being sold--DOT3 is SPECIFICALLY called-for in every ABS system I've serviced (a couple), and in some other older cars. I bought some a year ago or so ago. http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-FC134280-Brake-Fluid-Bottle/dp/B000C90S7O bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA To make the numbering system on brake fluid even more confusing, DOT 5.1 is a non-silicone brake fluid, which is compatible with DOT 4 (and DOT 3, which I don't think is even sold any more.) Castrol GT-LMA is rated as DOT 5.1 and is an excellent choice for systems that have not been switched to silicone DOT 5 brake fluid. It has excellent moisture management and heat tolerance characteristics. But please, folks, let's not get started on preferences for silicone versus non-silicone fluids. If the car has never had its brake fluid changed, then it hasn't had the seals changed either, and should get replacement non-silicone (Dot 4 or Dot 5.1) fluid. Cheers gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 17:10:41 2010 From: Stephen Hutchings To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 18:23:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A arm connection at fulcrum I've got a question about the tolerance where the A arm/ kingpin meet : the manual says there should be a tolerance of 0.002" once the threaded bushes have benn turned back one flat. Fine, only the cork rings don't sit all the way into their recess, and I think that the compressed cork rings would make a feeler guage measurement impossible. So, are my cork rings too thick, and should I trim them before fitting the a A arms (lower wishbones).? Thanks Stephen, BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 17:41:32 2010 From: David Nock To: Ken Taplin Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:41:41 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat belts I have posted a couple of photos of a car that one of our customers had installed a set of 3 point shoulder belts. He lost control and went of a Central California Coastal Cliff and landed about 100 yards off the road. The car caught fire the steering wheel was pushed down to the seat cushion. All the impact was taken directly on the front end. The owner and his passenger crawled out of the car and are alive today. Both credit being alive today due to wearing 3 point shoulder belts. You can view the photos in the album page on our web site. www.britishcarspecialists.com David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On May 7, 2010, at 6:21 AM, Ken Taplin wrote: > I have maintained for years that it is at least imprudent if not > actually > dangerous to belt yourself into a vehicle that does not have rollover > protection. I recently aquired a tractor with a seat belt and a > rollover > protective stucture. One of the many warnig labels on this tractor > says...DO > NOT use seat belt if this structure is not in place. > I feel vindicated. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 18:36:47 2010 From: David Nock To: BJ8 Healeys , Healey List List Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 16:49:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident I have posted a couple of photos of a car that one of our customers had installed a set of 3 point shoulder belts. He lost control and went of a Central California Coastal Cliff and landed about 100 yards off the road. The car caught fire the steering wheel was pushed down to the seat cushion. All the impact was taken directly on the front end. The owner and his passenger crawled out of the car and are alive today. Both credit being alive today due to wearing 3 point shoulder belts. You can view the photos in the album page on our web site. www.britishcarspecialists.com David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 18:38:10 2010 From: John Vrugtman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 20:04:23 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] dumb question ... Interesting, since just this week I changed needles in my 64 from UN (rich) to the standard needle and had to adjust the jets more than a complete turn of the screw. Otherwise, it would not run at idle. John BJ8s On 5/7/2010 4:46 PM, Dan Stromquist wrote: > Bob: > I asked the same question and was told the needle circumference enriched the > mixture only at higher RPMs and that at idle or near idle the needle was the > same as standard. > Dan > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 4:24 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] dumb question ... > > A 'UN' (rich) SU needle should enrichen the mixture compared to a standard > needle, correct? > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan@warner-associates.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman@htcnet.org _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 19:37:43 2010 From: "J. Scott Morris" To: Austin Healey Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 17:57:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: [mg-tabc] Not TABC but club related Just passing on a heads-up for those members in the US of A. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Fri, 5/7/10, D&J Edgar wrote: From: D&J Edgar Subject: [mg-tabc] Not TABC but club related To: "TABC" Received: Friday, May 7, 2010, 8:26 PM While this is not TABC specific,this may pertain to many MG clubs in the United States. If any of you are involved with tax-exempt non-profit organizations (car clubs), you might want to check that they have filed their 990 return with the IRS. Small organizations were obligated to file by legislation in 2006, effective the 2007 tax year. Not filing for 3 years will cause the loss of their tax exempt status. As this was quietly passed many clubs and organizations may not be aware of this. It could be very expensive to try and get the exempt status reissued if you do loose it. This would be the third tax year since this was passed so this would be the first year in which you could loose your tax exempt status if you do not file. So ask your officers if this has been done to save headaches later. The 990 has to be filed to the IRS by MAY 17, 2010 if it has not been done within the last three years. http://www.irs. gov/newsroom/ article/0, ,id=222668, 00.html For the rest of you outside the US, sorry for taking up your time. David Edgar, TC 5108 El Cajon, California _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 03:05:40 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Editorgary@aol.com Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 10:24:44 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Fluid Gary is correct here. DOT5.1 is basicly DOT 4 with the boiling characteristics improved to DOT5 level. Overhere it is not that widely available though. Kees Oudesluijs NL. Editorgary@aol.com wrote: > To make the numbering system on brake fluid even more confusing, DOT 5.1 is > a non-silicone brake fluid, which is compatible with DOT 4 (and DOT 3, > which I don't think is even sold any more.) > > Castrol GT-LMA is rated as DOT 5.1 and is an excellent choice for systems > that have not been switched to silicone DOT 5 brake fluid. It has excellent > moisture management and heat tolerance characteristics. > > But please, folks, let's not get started on preferences for silicone versus > non-silicone fluids. If the car has never had its brake fluid changed, then > it hasn't had the seals changed either, and should get replacement > non-silicone (Dot 4 or Dot 5.1) fluid. > > Cheers > gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2860 - datum van uitgifte: 05/07/10 20:26:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 07:39:34 2010 From: "Al Fuller" To: Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 09:08:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 All: I just received a new tonneau from Moss Motors, which arrived without instructions on the install process. I don't see anything in the archives as to whether it's best to start at the front and work back, start at the back and work front or do the side fasteners first. Any experience will be greatly appreciated. BTW, I am completely dis-impressed with the quality of the tonneau on first look. I would expect an outdoor item like this to have a substantial zipper, etc. [sigh] Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 09:09:29 2010 From: "John Snyder" To: Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 07:23:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Upholstery Does anyone know if there is a problem with Heritage? I ordered a complete interior for my 1959 BN7 from them in February. All communication has been done via email. My vocal Chords were removed because of Cancer, and I can not use a telephone. I sent them a $2500 deposit, and received an invoice acknowledging receipt of my deposit and that my balance due was $2460 + shipping costs. I got an email from Tony Hazell (Manager) that my interior would be finished around April 12th. I have repeatedly emailed them since, asking for an update on my interior, and do not receive any replies. John Snyder 1959 BN7 1960 BT7 1961 BN7 MK2 1962 BT7 MK2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 09:14:16 2010 From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 07:34:34 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 Hi, Al - I think it's best to start at the center, and work outward alternately on the sides. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise to find the centerline, and mark it with chalk. This provides a guide to get the tonneau centered on the car. Use chalk on the heads of the fasteners on the car so that when you get the tonneau placed properly you can transfer the chalk to the underside of the tonneau fabric and thus locate where the tonneau fasteners should go. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 6:09 AM To: Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 All: I just received a new tonneau from Moss Motors, which arrived without instructions on the install process. I don't see anything in the archives as to whether it's best to start at the front and work back, start at the back and work front or do the side fasteners first. Any experience will be greatly appreciated. BTW, I am completely dis-impressed with the quality of the tonneau on first look. I would expect an outdoor item like this to have a substantial zipper, etc. [sigh] Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers@ec.rr.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.819 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2860 - Release Date: 05/07/10 11:26:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 09:51:33 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Al Fuller Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 23:13:32 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 Al - Can't comment on the quality, but to be fair the original tonneaus weren't exactly top quality either. Wait until you have a nice hot sunny summer day and park your car outside. Put the tonneau on the cement and let it sit in the midday sun for a good hour. After all of this, you will find that the tonneau will be pretty easy to install. After you've got the whole thing snapped up, let is sit for a while and stretch into place in the sun. Later, drive it inside then button it up again and let it sit overnight in the cold air. You may have to do it this way a couple of times, but she'll eventually take shape and then it should work regardless if whether it's cold or hot. the more you can just leave it on the car, the better it will take shape. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 9:08 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > All: > > > > I just received a new tonneau from Moss Motors, which arrived without > instructions on the install process. I don't see anything in the archives > as to whether it's best to start at the front and work back, start at the > back and work front or do the side fasteners first. Any experience will be > greatly appreciated. > > > > BTW, I am completely dis-impressed with the quality of the tonneau on first > look. I would expect an outdoor item like this to have a substantial > zipper, etc. [sigh] > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '62 BT-7 > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 10:23:14 2010 From: Jean Caron To: , Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 15:52:10 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heritage Upholstery John: I think they are extremely busy and that they are shortstaffed at the moment although there is no excuse for that as far as I am concerned. I had also ordered some interior parts and it took quite a while to receive them and I was dealing with their Canadian office in British Columbia. I called them several times before it finally arrived. I know they have had some changes in staff, at least at their B.C. office and whoever is there is not as much on the ball as the person who was there previously. Jean Caron > From: helyjohn@cablespeed.com > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 07:23:11 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Upholstery > > Does anyone know if there is a problem with Heritage? I ordered a complete > interior for my 1959 BN7 from them in February. All communication has been > done via email. My vocal Chords were removed because of Cancer, and I can not > use a telephone. I sent them a $2500 deposit, and received an invoice > acknowledging receipt of my deposit and that my balance due was $2460 + > shipping costs. I got an email from Tony Hazell (Manager) that my interior > would be finished around April 12th. I have repeatedly emailed them since, > asking for an update on my interior, and do not receive any replies. > > John Snyder > 1959 BN7 > 1960 BT7 > 1961 BN7 MK2 > 1962 BT7 MK2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho tmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Win a $10,000 shopping spree from Hotmail! Enter now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9729711 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 10:53:49 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Alan Seigrist Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 09:14:57 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 I second the set it in the sun on a hot day suggestion. I would add, install it as tight as possible. You want to have to fight to get it fastened when first done. With use it will stretch and it will be just right. On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 8:13 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Al - > > Can't comment on the quality, but to be fair the original tonneaus weren't > exactly top quality either. > > Wait until you have a nice hot sunny summer day and park your car outside. > Put the tonneau on the cement and let it sit in the midday sun for a good > hour. After all of this, you will find that the tonneau will be pretty > easy > to install. After you've got the whole thing snapped up, let is sit for a > while and stretch into place in the sun. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 13:12:00 2010 From: "Ron Ray" To: "'Al Fuller'" , Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 13:23:58 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 Al, Assuming you have a Robbins product, for a BT7 at least, one has to request a brass zipper if that is what one prefers, either for quality or to match original. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 8:09 AM To: Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 All: I just received a new tonneau from Moss Motors, which arrived without instructions on the install process. I don't see anything in the archives as to whether it's best to start at the front and work back, start at the back and work front or do the side fasteners first. Any experience will be greatly appreciated. BTW, I am completely dis-impressed with the quality of the tonneau on first look. I would expect an outdoor item like this to have a substantial zipper, etc. [sigh] Al Fuller _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 13:41:09 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 14:59:23 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Poor Customer Service In a message dated 5/8/10 9:55:30 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > > John: > > I think they are extremely busy and that they are shortstaffed at the > moment > although there is no excuse for that as far as I am concerned. I had also > ordered some interior parts and it took quite a while to receive them and > I > was dealing with their Canadian office in British Columbia. I called them > several times before it finally arrived. I know they have had some changes > in > staff, at least at their B.C. office and whoever is there is not as much > on > the ball as the person who was there previously. > Really too bad when a small company that has laboriously established a reputation for excellent quality over the years lets it slide by not paying sufficient attention to customer service. And it's also amazing how fast bad customer service can rob a company of financial health even when its product quality is still excellent. As a publisher who relies on healthy small companies for advertising income, I've watched too many go out of business because the front office was letting the back work rooms down. Heritage advertises in both magazines I edit; I hope they can get their act together. Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 14:35:30 2010 From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Richard Ewald" , "Alan Seigrist" Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 14:59:38 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 No No, this is where Murphy's law kicks in with a vengence, if you fit it tight assuming it will stretch, it will shrink, if you fit it loose assuming it will shrink....good luck "I second the set it in the sun on a hot day suggestion. I would add, > install it as tight as possible. You want to have to fight to get it > fastened when first done. With use it will stretch and it will be just > right." _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 15:04:27 2010 From: Thomas Morrione To: Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 16:17:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front shock gasket question List folks, I9m about to reinstall front shocks on my 65 BJ8. They were cleaned up and painted, but have been sitting for about two months in a box. I now notice that the gaskets are weeping a little oil -- even after a tightening up that back plate a month ago. They9re both in good shape otherwise I think (good steady resistance). Is it ok to jus take the back plate off and replace the gaskets or will bits pop out at me requiring more internal work? Good source for gaskets? Or, can I make them up of standard gasket material? Thanks, Tom _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 15:20:37 2010 From: "Peter Ryner" To: Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 16:43:25 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 I've never seen any fabric stretch with time except maybe those patio covers that catch rain and the weight eventually stretches the cover so it always catches rain and stretches more until it tears. Tonnueaus and tops always shrink. If you make the tonneau tight while it is in the sun you'll have a bear of a time getting it installed when it is older, cold and/or dark. Even the sumbrella on my boat works that way. I'd recommend installing with a good fit but certainly not tight. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Richard Ewald" ; "Alan Seigrist" Cc: Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 3:59 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 > No No, this is where Murphy's law kicks in with a vengence, if you fit it > tight assuming it will stretch, it will shrink, if you fit it loose > assuming it will shrink....good luck > > > > > "I second the set it in the sun on a hot day suggestion. I would add, >> install it as tight as possible. You want to have to fight to get it >> fastened when first done. With use it will stretch and it will be just >> right." _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 15:22:25 2010 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: Dan Stromquist Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 13:52:44 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] dumb question ... I just checked the application lists for BJ8, The "standard" needle is a UH, the rich needle is UN. UH UN .124 .124 .104 .1006 .084 .0806 Wilko On May 7, 2010, at 1:46 PM, Dan Stromquist wrote: > Bob: > I asked the same question and was told the needle circumference > enriched the > mixture only at higher RPMs and that at idle or near idle the needle > was the > same as standard. > Dan > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net > ] > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 4:24 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] dumb question ... > > A 'UN' (rich) SU needle should enrichen the mixture compared to a > standard > needle, correct? > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan@warner- > associates.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 16:20:16 2010 From: "Heal;ey" To: "Thomas Morrione" , Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 17:31:11 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front shock gasket question Hi Tom I just use Cereal box cardboard with gasket goo on all surfaces, both sides of gasket and both surfaces and have had no problem with leaks. Bob 1963 BJ7 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Thomas Morrione" Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 4:17 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Front shock gasket question > List folks, > > I9m about to reinstall front shocks on my 65 BJ8. They were cleaned up and > painted, but have been sitting for about two months in a box. I now notice > that the gaskets are weeping a little oil -- even after a tightening up > that back plate a month ago. They9re both in good shape otherwise I think > (good steady resistance). Is it ok to jus take the back plate off and > replace the gaskets or will bits pop out at me requiring more internal > work? > > Good source for gaskets? Or, can I make them up of standard gasket > material? > > Thanks, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bj7ah@acanac.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 16:22:03 2010 From: Jim LeBlanc To: Healey List Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 14:44:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Concours Judging Advice Needed Please Where is the biggest return on investment here? Looking at judging sheet for a bronze award level and want to bring the car up to the next level. Deductions are: Mechanical and safety 1/2 Engine 10 Engine Compartment 22 1/2 Undercarriage 6 1/2 Body Panels & Paint 4 Chrome & Glass 19 Interior $ Soft Trim 25 1/2 Boot & Loose Equipment 23 1/2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 17:05:19 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Editorgary@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 18:47:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Poor Customer Service This has been the story for heritage ever since they opened for business. The best product, slow service, lousy communication. I would doubt they are having any problems other than not enough trained staff to do the work. Unfortunately for me, for my restoration I will probably avoid dealing with them because of their long reputation for being slow and not communicating. Frankly almost all interior options out there will result in an interior that is nicer than what came from the factory! Alan On 5/9/10, Editorgary@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 5/8/10 9:55:30 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net > writes: > > >> >> John: >> >> I think they are extremely busy and that they are shortstaffed at the >> moment >> although there is no excuse for that as far as I am concerned. I had also >> ordered some interior parts and it took quite a while to receive them and >> I >> was dealing with their Canadian office in British Columbia. I called them >> several times before it finally arrived. I know they have had some changes >> >> in >> staff, at least at their B.C. office and whoever is there is not as much >> on >> the ball as the person who was there previously. >> > Really too bad when a small company that has laboriously established a > reputation for excellent quality over the years lets it slide by not paying > sufficient attention to customer service. And it's also amazing how fast bad > customer service can rob a company of financial health even when its product > quality is still excellent. > As a publisher who relies on healthy small companies for advertising > income, I've watched too many go out of business because the front office > was > letting the back work rooms down. > Heritage advertises in both magazines I edit; I hope they can get their act > together. > Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 17:50:16 2010 From: Dick Matson To: AustinHealey List Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 16:13:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Poor Customer Service And then again . . . . I once phoned Heritage for samples. When I got to the mail box the samples were there. Dick Matson / Cashmere, WA > Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 18:47:50 -0400 > From: healey.nut@gmail.com > To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Poor Customer Service > > This has been the story for heritage ever since they opened for > business. The best product, slow service, lousy communication. > > I would doubt they are having any problems other than not enough > trained staff to do the work. > > Unfortunately for me, for my restoration I will probably avoid dealing > with them because of their long reputation for being slow and not > communicating. Frankly almost all interior options out there will > result in an interior that is nicer than what came from the factory! > > Alan > > On 5/9/10, Editorgary@aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 5/8/10 9:55:30 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net > > writes: > > > > > >> > >> John: > >> > >> I think they are extremely busy and that they are shortstaffed at the > >> moment > >> although there is no excuse for that as far as I am concerned. I had also > >> ordered some interior parts and it took quite a while to receive them and > >> I > >> was dealing with their Canadian office in British Columbia. I called them > >> several times before it finally arrived. I know they have had some changes > >> > >> in > >> staff, at least at their B.C. office and whoever is there is not as much > >> on > >> the ball as the person who was there previously. > >> > > Really too bad when a small company that has laboriously established a > > reputation for excellent quality over the years lets it slide by not paying > > sufficient attention to customer service. And it's also amazing how fast bad > > customer service can rob a company of financial health even when its product > > quality is still excellent. > > As a publisher who relies on healthy small companies for advertising > > income, I've watched too many go out of business because the front office > > was > > letting the back work rooms down. > > Heritage advertises in both magazines I edit; I hope they can get their act > > together. > > Gary > > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 18:18:44 2010 From: Mark J Bradakis To: AustinHealey List Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 17:59:31 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Poor Customer Service Ha! You folks have no idea what poor customer service is until you try to order parts from The Fat Chance Garage ( me ) But I don't do Healey stuff, so count your blessings. mjb. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 18:20:03 2010 From: Thomas Morrione To: "Heal;ey" , Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 20:03:38 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front shock gasket question Bob, Many thanks - Will do. I appreciate the simplicity of the solution. On 5/8/10 5:31 PM, "Heal;ey" wrote: > Hi Tom > I just use Cereal box cardboard with gasket goo on all surfaces, both > sides of > gasket and both surfaces and have had no problem with leaks. > > Bob 1963 BJ7 > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Thomas Morrione" > Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 4:17 PM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] Front shock gasket question > >> List folks, >> >> I9m about to reinstall front shocks on my 65 BJ8. They were cleaned up and >> painted, but have been sitting for about two months in a box. I now notice >> that the gaskets are weeping a little oil -- even after a tightening up >> that back plate a month ago. They9re both in good shape otherwise I think >> (good steady resistance). Is it ok to jus take the back plate off and >> replace the gaskets or will bits pop out at me requiring more internal >> work? >> >> Good source for gaskets? Or, can I make them up of standard gasket >> material? >> >> Thanks, >> Tom >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bj7ah@acanac.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 18:35:09 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Dick Matson , AustinHealey List Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 20:19:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Poor Customer Service Yes-but how long was it before you went to the mail box?:) ---- Dick Matson wrote: ============= And then again . . . . I once phoned Heritage for samples. When I got to the mail box the samples were there. Dick Matson / Cashmere, WA > Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 18:47:50 -0400 > From: healey.nut@gmail.com > To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Poor Customer Service > > This has been the story for heritage ever since they opened for > business. The best product, slow service, lousy communication. > > I would doubt they are having any problems other than not enough > trained staff to do the work. > > Unfortunately for me, for my restoration I will probably avoid dealing > with them because of their long reputation for being slow and not > communicating. Frankly almost all interior options out there will > result in an interior that is nicer than what came from the factory! > > Alan > > On 5/9/10, Editorgary@aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 5/8/10 9:55:30 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net > > writes: > > > > > >> > >> John: > >> > >> I think they are extremely busy and that they are shortstaffed at the > >> moment > >> although there is no excuse for that as far as I am concerned. I had also > >> ordered some interior parts and it took quite a while to receive them and > >> I > >> was dealing with their Canadian office in British Columbia. I called them > >> several times before it finally arrived. I know they have had some changes > >> > >> in > >> staff, at least at their B.C. office and whoever is there is not as much > >> on > >> the ball as the person who was there previously. > >> > > Really too bad when a small company that has laboriously established a > > reputation for excellent quality over the years lets it slide by not paying > > sufficient attention to customer service. And it's also amazing how fast bad > > customer service can rob a company of financial health even when its product > > quality is still excellent. > > As a publisher who relies on healthy small companies for advertising > > income, I've watched too many go out of business because the front office > > was > > letting the back work rooms down. > > Heritage advertises in both magazines I edit; I hope they can get their act > > together. > > Gary > > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 19:23:36 2010 From: "Ray Carbone" To: Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 20:45:19 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Hi Dave, I viewed the accident pics and am very surprised the occupants are not dead. I was told that 3-point seat belts were less safe than lap belts when there is no headrest. Additionally, in 1962 I was coming out of the Holland Tunnel from Manhattan and I came across an MGA that had gone through a red light as 19-wheeler began through the intersection. Needless to say, the MGA wound up under the trailer with the box resting across a flattened windscreen. When the fire department responded, they jacked the trailer and, to the astonishment of all, the driver popped the door and crawled free. At that time, lap belts were uncommon and 3-point belts where rare if at all available. My conclusion; if the MGA driver had a 3-point belt he would have been dead as laying across the seats would not have been an option. Although I am open to 3-point belts now (still concerned about the lack of headrests), with the size of SUVs and other truck-like vehicles commonly found on today's roads, I remain unsure that they are a good idea. Ray Carbone 64BJ8P1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 19:24:42 2010 From: Marvin James To: Dick Matson Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 18:04:31 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Poor Customer Service I phoned Heritage several years ago for samples. I just checked the mailbox and they still haven't come. On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 4:13 PM, Dick Matson wrote: > And then again . . . . > > I once phoned Heritage for samples. > > When I got to the mail box the samples were there. > > > > Dick Matson / Cashmere, WA > > > > > > > > > Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 18:47:50 -0400 > > From: healey.nut@gmail.com > > To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Poor Customer Service > > > > This has been the story for heritage ever since they opened for > > business. The best product, slow service, lousy communication. > > > > I would doubt they are having any problems other than not enough > > trained staff to do the work. > > > > Unfortunately for me, for my restoration I will probably avoid dealing > > with them because of their long reputation for being slow and not > > communicating. Frankly almost all interior options out there will > > result in an interior that is nicer than what came from the factory! > > > > Alan > > > > On 5/9/10, Editorgary@aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 5/8/10 9:55:30 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net > > > writes: > > > > > > > > >> > > >> John: > > >> > > >> I think they are extremely busy and that they are shortstaffed at the > > >> moment > > >> although there is no excuse for that as far as I am concerned. I had > also > > >> ordered some interior parts and it took quite a while to receive them > and > > >> I > > >> was dealing with their Canadian office in British Columbia. I called > them > > >> several times before it finally arrived. I know they have had some > changes > > >> > > >> in > > >> staff, at least at their B.C. office and whoever is there is not as > much > > >> on > > >> the ball as the person who was there previously. > > >> > > > Really too bad when a small company that has laboriously established a > > > reputation for excellent quality over the years lets it slide by not > paying > > > sufficient attention to customer service. And it's also amazing how > fast > bad > > > customer service can rob a company of financial health even when its > product > > > quality is still excellent. > > > As a publisher who relies on healthy small companies for advertising > > > income, I've watched too many go out of business because the front > office > > > was > > > letting the back work rooms down. > > > Heritage advertises in both magazines I edit; I hope they can get their > act > > > together. > > > Gary > > > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 19:55:51 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Jim LeBlanc Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 18:21:18 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Judging Advice Needed Please Jim, What car? When was it judged and where? Who judged the car? I'll need to see the score sheets to determine where to go on correcting the non original items. Cheers, Curt Arndt Austin Healey Concours Chairman Carlsbad, CA On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 2:44 PM, Jim LeBlanc wrote: > Where is the biggest return on investment here? Looking at judging sheet > for a > bronze award level and want to bring the car up to the next level. > > Deductions are: > > Mechanical and safety 1/2 > Engine 10 > Engine Compartment 22 1/2 > Undercarriage 6 1/2 > Body Panels & Paint 4 > Chrome & Glass 19 > Interior $ Soft Trim 25 1/2 > Boot & Loose Equipment 23 1/2 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 20:31:49 2010 From: To: healeydoc@sbcglobal.net, Ray Carbone Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 21:33:56 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Why couldn't one drop down across the passenger seat. Keith ---- Ray Carbone wrote: > My conclusion; if the MGA driver had a 3-point belt he would have > been dead as laying across the seats would not have been an option. > Ray Carbone 64BJ8P1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 20:53:15 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 01:58:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] dumb question ... Looks like the rich needle would run the same at idle/low RPM. Thanks, Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA I just checked the application lists for BJ8, The "standard" needle is a UH, the rich needle is UN. UH UN .124 .124 .104 .1006 .084 .0806 Wilko On May 7, 2010, at 1:46 PM, Dan Stromquist wrote: > Bob: > I asked the same question and was told the needle circumference > enriched the > mixture only at higher RPMs and that at idle or near idle the needle > was the > same as standard. > Dan > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net > ] > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 4:24 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] dumb question ... > > A 'UN' (rich) SU needle should enrichen the mixture compared to a > standard > needle, correct? > > > bs _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 20:53:41 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 21:01:55 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front shock gasket question This is just the sort of thing that makes me ashamed to even be a Healey owner -:( !! <> N.F.I. !!!! Shox ARE a SAFETY item. If [and/or when] one or more is "leaking" there IS more that is WRONG with it/them. They ARE at least 40 years OLD. There is ZERO doubt in MY mind that a "sign" such as that MEANS that they need PROFESSIONAL attention, and NOT some "shadetree self-professed wrench" assessment and REPAIR !!! If one cannot afford to take care of a SAFETY item, one should NOT be driving the vehicle [and gives rise to the question of "should I even own this car"??], period. Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 20:54:57 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: Ray Carbone Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 12:16:18 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Hi Ray, seatbelts have been compulsory (both fitment and wearing) in Australia for around 40 years. I suspect you are confused about 4 point harnesses and 3 point seatbelts. If you wear a 4 point harness (ie one strap over each shoulder) then you can't eg move your upper body towards the centre of the vehicle, lay across the other seat etc. I would never wear or fit a 4 point harness to any vehicle which doesn't have rollover protection. Laying across the seats is absolutely possible with a 3 point lap sash seatbelt. The shoulder strap passes over the shoulder closest to the door - not the 'inside' shoulder. Every car sold in Australia post the mid/ late 1960's or so has seatbelts fitted (every "outboard" seat is 3 point lap sash) and you get fined/ lose licence points / potentially killed if you don't wear them. My Healey, and 2 previous Sprites have all had rollbars and 4/ 5 point harnesses. My prev 100/4 had lap sash 3 point, no rollbar. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 09/05/2010, at 10:45 AM, "Ray Carbone" wrote: > My conclusion; if the MGA driver had a 3-point belt he would have > been dead as laying across the seats would not have been an option. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 21:27:55 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: pennell@cox.net Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 19:55:48 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident I'll assume you're kidding. That's about as silly as saying I'll just stick my arms out to absorb the impact! SEATBEATS, USE THEM, and oh by the way, it's been proven that just using lap belts are essentially worse than useless. Take it from the guy who wears the five point harness cinched as tight as I can make it in the cockpit, while my passengers just have lap belts. Why do you think the flight attendants have you bend over in your seat as in "assume the crash position?" Curt On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 6:33 PM, wrote: > Why couldn't one drop down across the passenger seat. > > Keith > > ---- Ray Carbone wrote: > > My conclusion; if the MGA driver had a 3-point belt he would have > > been dead as laying across the seats would not have been an option. > > > Ray Carbone 64BJ8P1 > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 22:00:46 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 22:15:47 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident << Laying across the seats is absolutely possible with a 3 point lap sash seatbelt. The shoulder strap passes over the shoulder closest to the door - not the 'inside' shoulder. >> Whilst true Chris, the 'move' IS greatly impeded. Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 22:01:55 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Chris Dimmock Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 20:23:01 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Chris, Watch some videos of violent rollover crashes and tell me how you think you'll be able to stay lying down when the car rolls violently 4 or 5 times. I hope you also don't think that if the elevator fails you can just jump up the moment before impact ;-^) Cheers, Curt On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 7:16 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hi Ray, seatbelts have been compulsory (both fitment and wearing) in > Australia for around 40 years. > > Laying across the seats is absolutely possible with a 3 point lap sash > seatbelt. The shoulder strap passes over the shoulder closest to the door - > not the 'inside' shoulder. > > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com > Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 22:52:33 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" , healeys Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 12:19:39 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Make sure your passenger belt is always latched, then you can grab it and pull yourself down when you're a flippin' On 5/9/10, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << Laying across the seats is absolutely possible with a 3 point lap > sash seatbelt. > The shoulder strap passes over the shoulder closest to the door - not > the 'inside' shoulder. >> > > Whilst true Chris, the 'move' IS greatly impeded. > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 23:24:18 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "John Snyder" , Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 00:39:09 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heritage Upholstery I have only dealt with Heritage for all my trimming needs since 2001. I cannot and will not speak on their behalf other than to state a couple of things. 1. I always place my orders well in advance of needing them, like at least 6 to 8 months in advance. It almost always takes at least 4 to 5 month turn around to receive the order. 2. From what I understand they no longer have the luxury of a person who can sit and answer phones through the day, but will usually always return Email inquiries within a few days. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Snyder" Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 10:23 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Upholstery > Does anyone know if there is a problem with Heritage? I ordered a > complete > interior for my 1959 BN7 from them in February. All communication has > been > done via email. My vocal Chords were removed because of Cancer, and I can > not > use a telephone. I sent them a $2500 deposit, and received an invoice > acknowledging receipt of my deposit and that my balance due was $2460 + > shipping costs. I got an email from Tony Hazell (Manager) that my > interior > would be finished around April 12th. I have repeatedly emailed them > since, > asking for an update on my interior, and do not receive any replies. > > John Snyder _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 23:26:23 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Jim LeBlanc" , "Healey List" Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 00:50:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Judging Advice Needed Please Hi Jim, The obvious answer to me would be to go after the items that are most at fault (engine compartment, interior and soft trim, boot and loose equipment) and see what you can do to rectify these areas. I am not at all familiar with the particular set of judging sheets or series of car you refer to but I can pretty well imagine from experience what is likely most at fault here. 1. Engine compartment: wrong screws and fasteners, I.e. Posidrive screw heads required on later BJ8's, British style hex heads on bolts, obvious older leaks, wrong paint finishes, wrong or non period components fitted. 2. Interior and soft trim is the most common downfall in Concours with poor fitting or wrongly shaped seats, wrong carpets, poor fitting panels, door seals, etc. 3. Boot and loose equipment, wrong or missing tool kit, wrongly bound or installed Armacord, wrong battery or hardware, non matching spare wheel/tire. Hope this helps Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jim LeBlanc" Subject: [Healeys] Concours Judging Advice Needed Please > Where is the biggest return on investment here? Looking at judging sheet > for a > bronze award level and want to bring the car up to the next level. > > Deductions are: > > Mechanical and safety 1/2 > Engine 10 > Engine Compartment 22 1/2 > Undercarriage 6 1/2 > Body Panels & Paint 4 > Chrome & Glass 19 > Interior $ Soft Trim 25 1/2 > Boot & Loose Equipment 23 1/2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 01:21:46 2010 From: "Ray Carbone" To: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" , "Chris Dimmock" Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 03:02:49 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Although my comment was give as a request for further information, I really didn't expect the sarcasm unleashed. As an ex SCCA driver who has rolled over in the early 60s and was saved by a roll bar, helmet, and 5-point belts, I am well aware of the benefits provided by seat belts since I originally installed them on my 1958 Pontiac Bonneville convertible. As for laying across the seat; when in a desperate situation the tendency is to step on the brakes and, with that action, the 3-point retractable belts will lock and, as designed, restrain almost all movement. To the point of not having a head rest; It has been my understanding that the whiplash caused by a 3-point belt, where a head rest is not present, can be extremely devastating and, in this case, a lap belt was recommended as a better choice. As with all things, new research may prove my understandings wrong. My post was meant to update my perceptions from the experiences of the list. Sorry to have posted. Ray 64BJ8P1 ----- Original Message ----- From: Curt/Nancy Arndt To: Chris Dimmock Cc: Ray Carbone ; healeys Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 11:23 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Chris, Watch some videos of violent rollover crashes and tell me how you think you'll be able to stay lying down when the car rolls violently 4 or 5 times. I hope you also don't think that if the elevator fails you can just jump up the moment before impact ;-^) Cheers, Curt On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 7:16 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: Hi Ray, seatbelts have been compulsory (both fitment and wearing) in Australia for around 40 years. Laying across the seats is absolutely possible with a 3 point lap sash seatbelt. The shoulder strap passes over the shoulder closest to the door - not the 'inside' shoulder. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 01:57:25 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Healey Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 15:21:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Grease / cable? All - I have my old Lucas CRT wiper motor apart and am wondering if packing the gear case / brass armature bearing / cable with white lithium wheel bearing grease is ok? I note the 59 yr. old bearing grease in the case is still softish, but very sticky, was wondering it that's the way this stuff is supposed to be? If not I'll clear it all out, the motor turns a bit slow and I think it's because of the sticky grease. Thoughts? Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 02:27:22 2010 From: Oudesluys To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 09:57:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] seatbelts Movement can be impeded with fixed 3 point belts when pulled tight, however hardly with reeled belts. Another point which is often overlooked/ignored in fitting seatbelts, and especially those in classic cars, is the position of the receiving buckle. The buckle is often way to high up. The lap belt should be positioned on the thighs/pelvis, never ever across the abdomen. This will leed to lethal internal injury in a not even to serious crash. The buckle opening should be as close to the meeting point seat squab/back rest as possible and most importantly barely protruding over the seat squab. A good (wrong) example is the Jensen Healey. The original reeled seatbelt has its buckle so high that the lap belt is over the abdomen and cannot be positioned over the thighs/pelvis. Absolutely lethal. Kees Oudesluijs NL Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > << Laying across the seats is absolutely possible with a 3 point lap > sash seatbelt. > The shoulder strap passes over the shoulder closest to the door - not > the 'inside' shoulder. >> > > Whilst true Chris, the 'move' IS greatly impeded. > > Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 02:55:50 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Alan Seigrist Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 10:13:09 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Grease / cable? Alan, Remove the old sticky stuff, clean thoroughly with white spirits or similar and repack with grease. You can use Lithium grease but I have used Molykote grease in the past. Do not pack it to the brim, use it reasonably sparingly. If you have everything apart, turn the gears for the wiper spindles 180degrees to compensate for wear. This will give you a lot less play in the wipers. Use oil to lubricate the spindles, grease for the cable/gear. Kees Oudesluijs NL Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > I have my old Lucas CRT wiper motor apart and am wondering if packing the > gear case / brass armature bearing / cable with white lithium wheel bearing > grease is ok? > > I note the 59 yr. old bearing grease in the case is still softish, but very > sticky, was wondering it that's the way this stuff is supposed to be? If > not I'll clear it all out, the motor turns a bit slow and I think it's > because of the sticky grease. > > Thoughts? > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2862 - datum van uitgifte: 05/08/10 20:26:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 02:57:14 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Oudesluys Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 16:22:17 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Grease / cable? Kees - Would grease in the bronze ball armature bearing be correct, or some sort of oil? Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Sun, May 9, 2010 at 4:13 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Alan, > Remove the old sticky stuff, clean thoroughly with white spirits or similar > and repack with grease. You can use Lithium grease but I have used Molykote > grease in the past. Do not pack it to the brim, use it reasonably sparingly. > If you have everything apart, turn the gears for the wiper spindles > 180degrees to compensate for wear. This will give you a lot less play in the > wipers. Use oil to lubricate the spindles, grease for the cable/gear. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Alan Seigrist wrote: > >> All - >> >> I have my old Lucas CRT wiper motor apart and am wondering if packing the >> gear case / brass armature bearing / cable with white lithium wheel >> bearing >> grease is ok? >> >> I note the 59 yr. old bearing grease in the case is still softish, but >> very >> sticky, was wondering it that's the way this stuff is supposed to be? If >> not I'll clear it all out, the motor turns a bit slow and I think it's >> because of the sticky grease. >> >> Thoughts? >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '59 Jag Mk IX >> '64 BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: >> 271.1.1/2862 - datum van uitgifte: 05/08/10 20:26:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 03:55:54 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Alan Seigrist Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 11:01:38 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Grease / cable? Aloan, As bronze in bearings is usually of the sintered variety I would tend to oil them. Sintered bronze is porous and will absorb the oil in its cavities. Leave to soak for 24 hours or immerse in oil, heat up (beware of fire hazard) and let cool down (still immersed in the oil). No harm would be done if you do both oil (first) and grease them. Kees Oudesluijs NL Alan Seigrist wrote: > Kees - > > Would grease in the bronze ball armature bearing be correct, or some > sort of oil? > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > > On Sun, May 9, 2010 at 4:13 PM, Oudesluys > wrote: > > Alan, > Remove the old sticky stuff, clean thoroughly with white spirits > or similar and repack with grease. You can use Lithium grease but > I have used Molykote grease in the past. Do not pack it to the > brim, use it reasonably sparingly. If you have everything apart, > turn the gears for the wiper spindles 180degrees to compensate for > wear. This will give you a lot less play in the wipers. Use oil to > lubricate the spindles, grease for the cable/gear. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Alan Seigrist wrote: > > All - > > I have my old Lucas CRT wiper motor apart and am wondering if > packing the > gear case / brass armature bearing / cable with white lithium > wheel bearing > grease is ok? > > I note the 59 yr. old bearing grease in the case is still > softish, but very > sticky, was wondering it that's the way this stuff is supposed > to be? If > not I'll clear it all out, the motor turns a bit slow and I > think it's > because of the sticky grease. > > Thoughts? > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2862 - datum van > uitgifte: 05/08/10 20:26:00 > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2862 - datum van uitgifte: 05/08/10 20:26:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 03:58:31 2010 From: "Guy R Day" To: "Alan Seigrist" , "Healey" Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 10:13:56 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Grease / cable? You do need a grease that won't dry out. Industry suggests that a lithium based grease is long lasting but my experience is that it dries, shrinks and cracks after a couple of years of exposure to air. It may be that in the wiper motor box it won't do that. The old stuff lasted nigh on 60 years so can you get more of it? Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "Healey" Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 8:21 AM Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Grease / cable? > All - > > I have my old Lucas CRT wiper motor apart and am wondering if packing the > gear case / brass armature bearing / cable with white lithium wheel > bearing > grease is ok? > > I note the 59 yr. old bearing grease in the case is still softish, but > very > sticky, was wondering it that's the way this stuff is supposed to be? If > not I'll clear it all out, the motor turns a bit slow and I think it's > because of the sticky grease. > > Thoughts? > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday@btinternet.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 04:00:02 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: Curt/Nancy Arndt Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 19:23:37 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Hi Curt, I don't need to try to lie down if I roll my BJ8, and have never been interested in testing the theory. As I said, "My Healey, and 2 previous Sprites have all had rollbars and 4/ 5 point harnesses." Proper full width rollbars, several inches above my head. And I use the stairs ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 09/05/2010, at 1:23 PM, "Curt/Nancy Arndt" wrote: > Chris, > > Watch some videos of violent rollover crashes and tell me how you > think you'll be able to stay lying down when the car rolls violently > 4 or 5 times. > > I hope you also don't think that if the elevator fails you can just > jump up the moment before impact ;-^) > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 7:16 PM, Chris Dimmock > wrote: > Hi Ray, seatbelts have been compulsory (both fitment and wearing) in > Australia for around 40 years. > > Laying across the seats is absolutely possible with a 3 point lap > sash seatbelt. The shoulder strap passes over the shoulder closest > to the door - not the 'inside' shoulder. > > Chris > www.myaustinhealey.com > Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 07:19:47 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Guy R Day , Healey Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 20:33:30 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Grease / cable? I cleaned the old grease out. It smelled a little like rotten food, which suggests it's about 50 years past its freshness date. I am going to use Japanese lithium wheel bearing grease... I will oil the bronze bearing but I'm not so sure about heating it up, it's still a good fit on the armature which suggests it's pretty hearty. On 5/9/10, Guy R Day wrote: > You do need a grease that won't dry out. > Industry suggests that a lithium based grease is long lasting but my > experience is that it dries, shrinks and cracks after a couple of years of > exposure to air. It may be that in the wiper motor box it won't do that. > The old stuff lasted nigh on 60 years so can you get more of it? > > Guy R Day > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Alan Seigrist" > To: "Healey" > Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 8:21 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Grease / cable? > > >> All - >> >> I have my old Lucas CRT wiper motor apart and am wondering if packing the >> gear case / brass armature bearing / cable with white lithium wheel >> bearing >> grease is ok? >> >> I note the 59 yr. old bearing grease in the case is still softish, but >> very >> sticky, was wondering it that's the way this stuff is supposed to be? If >> not I'll clear it all out, the motor turns a bit slow and I think it's >> because of the sticky grease. >> >> Thoughts? >> >> Alan >> >> '52 A90 >> '53 BN1 >> '59 Jag Mk IX >> '64 BJ8 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday@btinternet.com >> > > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 07:21:58 2010 From: jerry wall To: Peter Ryner Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 07:38:10 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 you can double that in spades for tops (hoods). install it as tight as you can get it in the summer (when you don't use it) and then get ready for the fun when you try to make it stretch in the winter. Peter is correct, the fit should be judicious. On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 3:43 PM, Peter Ryner wrote: > I've never seen any fabric stretch with time except maybe those patio > covers that catch rain and the weight eventually stretches the cover so it > always catches rain and stretches more until it tears. > Tonnueaus and tops always shrink. If you make the tonneau tight while it > is in the sun you'll have a bear of a time getting it installed when it is > older, cold and/or dark. Even the sumbrella on my boat works that way. I'd > recommend installing with a good fit but certainly not tight. > Pete > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Lemon" > To: "Richard Ewald" ; "Alan Seigrist" < > healey.nut@gmail.com> > Cc: > Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 3:59 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 > > > No No, this is where Murphy's law kicks in with a vengence, if you fit it >> tight assuming it will stretch, it will shrink, if you fit it loose assuming >> it will shrink....good luck >> >> >> >> >> "I second the set it in the sun on a hot day suggestion. I would add, >> >>> install it as tight as possible. You want to have to fight to get it >>> fastened when first done. With use it will stretch and it will be just >>> right." >>> >> _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 07:24:33 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Alan Seigrist" , "Healey" Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 08:38:44 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Grease / cable? Alan, Another thought to add to the lubrication already recommended. If the motor is turning rather slowly after almost 60 years, you might wish to check and clean the carbon out from between the commutator segments. Over the years the brushes will have worn to a degree and the worn off carbon ends up between the segments, becoming somewhat of a conductor. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alan Seigrist" Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 3:21 AM To: "Healey" Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Grease / cable? > All - > > I have my old Lucas CRT wiper motor apart and am wondering if packing the > gear case / brass armature bearing / cable with white lithium wheel > bearing > grease is ok? > > I note the 59 yr. old bearing grease in the case is still softish, but > very > sticky, was wondering it that's the way this stuff is supposed to be? If > not I'll clear it all out, the motor turns a bit slow and I think it's > because of the sticky grease. > > Thoughts? > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 07:26:02 2010 From: MBran89793@aol.com To: jim_leblanc@yahoo.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 08:49:33 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Judging Advice Needed Please Hi Jim- Before we make any comments of where you may gain points it is necessary to know the model, when, where and by whom was the car judged. Was the judging done per Austin-Healey Concours Registry standards? Do you have a copy of the score sheets that you may be able to provide? Marion S. Brantley, Jr. Austin-Healey Concours Committee Chairman/Judging In a message dated 5/8/2010 6:22:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jim_leblanc@yahoo.com writes: Where is the biggest return on investment here? Looking at judging sheet for a bronze award level and want to bring the car up to the next level. Deductions are: Mechanical and safety 1/2 Engine 10 Engine Compartment 22 1/2 Undercarriage 6 1/2 Body Panels & Paint 4 Chrome & Glass 19 Interior $ Soft Trim 25 1/2 Boot & Loose Equipment 23 1/2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 08:23:13 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: jerry wall Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 06:34:15 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 YMMV I guess. The last Robbins top I installed was on an MGB. Installed it snug but not tight. A month later I had to redo where it attached at the header rail as the top was now floppy loose from the wind buffeting it. I took up about 1/2" all accross the header rail. Sent from my iPhone On May 9, 2010, at 5:38, jerry wall wrote: > you can double that in spades for tops (hoods). install it as tight > as you > can get it in the summer (when you don't use it) and then get ready > for the > fun when you try to make it stretch in the winter. Peter is correct, > the fit > should be judicious. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 10:26:14 2010 From: Mark Schneider To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 08:41:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Service Listers, I thought I would offer a contrasting view of Heritage Upholstery. About 6 years ago I did a complete carpet replacement in our BJ8. When the set of carpet pieces arrived from Heritage I was baffled by where to start. I contacted Heritage to get some advice. Very shortly I received an email with 47 jpeg images attached. The photographs were complete with captions and arranged numerically in the preferred order of installation. Later in the process I ran into a serious problem with the transmission cover segment. It simply could not be made to fit and snap at the correct points. Heritage replaced the piece at no charge and with no debate. I have continued to have the same level of satisfaction with subsequent interior upholstery orders. Heritage has done very well by me. I am sorry others have not had a similar experience. Marks 3 '66 NJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 10:28:31 2010 From: "Peter Svilans" To: Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 11:50:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure - BT-7 The amount of stretch in a top or tonneau cover for a given material is built into the tailoring. A top is designed to have an exact, uniform clearance around the side windows, and one can get an initial feel for the amount of tightness or stretch needed overall by pulling on the front until that clearance is the same all around the side windows. The rain gutters flow into the window posts, and the front corner side flaps should come fairly close to the posts. The amount of stretch also varies according to the material. The original Everflex or Vynide material was fairly hefty yet stretched just the right amount. Same with Stayfast. Heritage repro everflex is thinner and stretches more than the original. On the other hand, Robbins' in-house Colonial Grain is very heavy and coarse and has comparatively little give. As the tailoring on tops got more complicated with more double and triple layers and built-in reinforcing flaps such as on an MGB top, there is little stretch possible apart from the flat main roof section. The bows themselves are often ignored. As the tailoring is hopefully based on an original car (not always the case), the positioning of the bows should be as close to original as possible. With fifty years' worth of abuse and rebuilding , especially in the rear wheelarch area, the position of the BT 7's bows' locating tubes or BJ 8's plinth can vary considerably. Make sure the arcs are even. Measure up from the floors, especially on a BJ 8, to make sure the bows are square and even side to side in relation to the windshield, and ensure they fold down neatly without colliding with each other in the rear well. BN 6 and 7 bows have adjuster screws built into the feet. A tonneau cover of course needs the bow and stiffeners in place, or in the case of the two-seaters, the top stowed properly (facing rearwards on the BN 6-7). Washers can be dropped into the locating tubes to level out a tonneau bow. Mark all centres on top & body, fix the back first, pull the material forward, temporarily tack the front centre, and work out towards the sides. Vinyl acquires serious creases from being folded up in a box often for years. These creases need to be relaxed with a heat gun first (but don't liquefy the vinyl !), as these pinch points add up and reduce the overall dimensions. The finished job should be steamed with a hand steamer to relax the fabric and take out creases, but this is not a cure-all for a bad fit. Best regards Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 10:59:59 2010 From: "Charlie O'Connors" To: Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 11:59:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Stowing a Robbins Top I have a Robbins top on my 1960 BT7 and it is a fantastic top. But, can someone tell me if there is a way for me to stow the top behind the squab without causing damage to the rear window? Thanks, Charlie O'Connors Tallahassee, Florida _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 11:30:19 2010 From: "Al Fuller" To: "'Ron Ray'" , Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 12:59:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 It's hard to tell where it came from. I asked the Moss dealer [Little British Car Co] to confirm the material, etc, and never got a response. Separately, I didn't see anything on either Moss's website nor on the dealer's regarding choice of zipper. I have compared the zipper on my old tonneau, a couple of local friend's cars and the new one, and the new zipper is by far the smallest of the bunch! I would prefer the brass zipper instead of the zipper on the new tonneau, which is a smaller gauge plastic. I'll return the tonneau and see what I have to do to get a 'good' one. [That is assuming that I don't get the usual run-around]. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Ron Ray [mailto:ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net] Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 2:24 PM To: 'Al Fuller'; Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 Al, Assuming you have a Robbins product, for a BT7 at least, one has to request a brass zipper if that is what one prefers, either for quality or to match original. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 8:09 AM To: Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 All: I just received a new tonneau from Moss Motors, which arrived without instructions on the install process. I don't see anything in the archives as to whether it's best to start at the front and work back, start at the back and work front or do the side fasteners first. Any experience will be greatly appreciated. BTW, I am completely dis-impressed with the quality of the tonneau on first look. I would expect an outdoor item like this to have a substantial zipper, etc. [sigh] Al Fuller _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 11:59:42 2010 From: "Al Fuller" To: "'Richard Ewald'" , "'Alan Seigrist'" Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 13:02:40 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 If I understand all the comments correctly, a tonneau will constantly stretch and shrink depending on the sunshine falling on it. Please correct me if I mis-understand. Given the above, wouldn't it serve a car better to fit/stretch a tonneau on a "medium" day, so that it is in the middle of its stretch cycle? Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Richard Ewald [mailto:richard.ewald@gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 12:15 PM To: Alan Seigrist Cc: Al Fuller; Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 I second the set it in the sun on a hot day suggestion. I would add, install it as tight as possible. You want to have to fight to get it fastened when first done. With use it will stretch and it will be just right. On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 8:13 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: Al - Can't comment on the quality, but to be fair the original tonneaus weren't exactly top quality either. Wait until you have a nice hot sunny summer day and park your car outside. Put the tonneau on the cement and let it sit in the midday sun for a good hour. After all of this, you will find that the tonneau will be pretty easy to install. After you've got the whole thing snapped up, let is sit for a while and stretch into place in the sun. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 12:01:22 2010 From: TERRY COLL To: , austin healey Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 13:04:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 radio recommendations All, I'm considering installing a radio in my BJ8. I'd ideally like a stereo AM/FM/CD unit that fits in the original spot. Any recommendations for the unit/speakers and speaker placement? Vintage Car Radio sells an inverter so polarity is not an issue. Thanks! Terry Coll '64 BJ8 _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 12:02:48 2010 From: "Al Fuller" To: "'Alan Seigrist'" Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 13:06:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 Thanks, Alan - I'll keep the procedure in mind! Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 11:14 AM To: Al Fuller Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 Al - Can't comment on the quality, but to be fair the original tonneaus weren't exactly top quality either. Wait until you have a nice hot sunny summer day and park your car outside. Put the tonneau on the cement and let it sit in the midday sun for a good hour. After all of this, you will find that the tonneau will be pretty easy to install. After you've got the whole thing snapped up, let is sit for a while and stretch into place in the sun. Later, drive it inside then button it up again and let it sit overnight in the cold air. You may have to do it this way a couple of times, but she'll eventually take shape and then it should work regardless if whether it's cold or hot. the more you can just leave it on the car, the better it will take shape. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 9:08 PM, Al Fuller wrote: All: I just received a new tonneau from Moss Motors, which arrived without instructions on the install process. I don't see anything in the archives as to whether it's best to start at the front and work back, start at the back and work front or do the side fasteners first. Any experience will be greatly appreciated. BTW, I am completely dis-impressed with the quality of the tonneau on first look. I would expect an outdoor item like this to have a substantial zipper, etc. [sigh] Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '62 BT-7 '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 12:04:23 2010 From: "Peter Svilans" To: "Charlie O'Connors" Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 13:27:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Stowing a Robbins Top Charlie, Yes, Robbins is the best fitting top IMHO. Now sold by Moss. Its hard to improve on the stowing instructions in the handbook. However, while the window is relatively protected by the clean inside of the top on one face and the side flaps (with their scratchy fasteners) on the other face, it wouldn't hurt to put a towel on each side of the window when stowing. I've enclosed a scan of the handbook instructions and pictures. Peter [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of BT 7 Stowage0089.jpg] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 12:36:27 2010 From: "E.A. Driver" To: Mark Schneider Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 11:40:13 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heritage Service Hi Mark If I combine your comments below with those of Rich Chrysler from last evening and my limited but positive experience (which includes photos) I distill the somewhat negative responses into two points: (a.) lack of planning and (b.) the current attitude in society today of the need for instantaneous satisfaction and "I'm on my the next interest". Kind regards Ed Saskatoon Mark Schneider wrote: > Listers, > > I thought I would offer a contrasting view of Heritage Upholstery. > About 6 years ago I did a complete carpet replacement in our BJ8. > When the set of carpet pieces arrived from Heritage I was baffled by > where to start. I contacted Heritage to get some advice. Very > shortly I received an email with 47 jpeg images attached. The > photographs were complete with captions and arranged numerically in > the preferred order of installation. Later in the process I ran into > a serious problem with the transmission cover segment. It simply > could not be made to fit and snap at the correct points. Heritage > replaced the piece at no charge and with no debate. I have continued > to have the same level of satisfaction with subsequent interior > upholstery orders. Heritage has done very well by me. I am sorry > others have not had a similar experience. > > Marks 3 > '66 NJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 12:39:25 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Charlie O'Connors" , Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 13:44:06 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stowing a Robbins Top Charlie, It's all described step by step with photos in the original Owners Handbook and in the original BMC Workshop Manual. I followed the recommended procedure hundreds of times over the years both in my own old BT7 and in showing others and it works out perfectly. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Charlie O'Connors" Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 11:59 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Stowing a Robbins Top > I have a Robbins top on my 1960 BT7 and it is a fantastic top. But, can > someone tell me if there is a way for me to stow the top behind the squab > without causing damage to the rear window? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Charlie O'Connors > > Tallahassee, Florida > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 14:05:37 2010 From: "Peter Svilans" To: Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 14:58:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure- BT-7 Al The original Everflex material has a cotton backing, which, being a natural material, shrinks over time. My BN 6 tonneau for which I still have my initial sewing pattern, shrank about one inch overall in a dozen years use out in the rain. This is the fabric actually getting smaller in the long term, as opposed to a tightening and relaxing of the PVC coating with daily temperature changes. Nowdays acrylic fabrics are less affected by moisture. BMC used to sell a protective sealant for the natural cotton threads used in the tops and tonneaus. Some people use beeswax. This kept (delayed ?) the water from soaking through the stitching into the cotton backing. Dealing with a top manufacturer from a distance twice removed ( LBC to Moss to Robbins) may not end up being all that satisfactory. To a huge manufacturer dealing in thousands of New Beetle and Miata tops, your brass zipper can fall almost below the radar. While Robbins and Moss are friendly and willing to help as best they can, your tonneau with its special requirements might have had to be treated as a special order right from the start, not just as a standard item stocked in quantity by a secondary dealer. Its possible to talk directly to the Robbins staff when initially placing your order, and they can accommodate your needs and assign you a special order number to keep track of your particular item. Special treatment usually comes at a price, though. Speaking of which, their revised suggested retail price list is somewhat of an eye-popper to someone still living in the eighties. Their Healey list has always been a head-scratcher to me, for example, why would a BJ 7 tonneau be nearly two hundred dollars more than a BJ 8 tonneau ? Best Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 14:38:58 2010 From: "Charlie O'Connors" To: "'Rich C'" , Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 15:47:56 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stowing a Robbins Top My concern is the plastic window being damaged because it's larger than the original window, but after the responses I received I followed the instructions in the owner's handbook and just made sure that only the material was folded - and not the window. Tight, but it does work. Thanks everyone. Charlie -----Original Message----- From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net] Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 1:44 PM To: Charlie O'Connors; Healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stowing a Robbins Top Charlie, It's all described step by step with photos in the original Owners Handbook and in the original BMC Workshop Manual. I followed the recommended procedure hundreds of times over the years both in my own old BT7 and in showing others and it works out perfectly. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Charlie O'Connors" Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 11:59 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Stowing a Robbins Top > I have a Robbins top on my 1960 BT7 and it is a fantastic top. But, can > someone tell me if there is a way for me to stow the top behind the squab > without causing damage to the rear window? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Charlie O'Connors > > Tallahassee, Florida > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 14:40:52 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Mark Schneider Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 21:57:57 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heritage Service These kind of firms do not deal in mass produced goods and do not have a huge stock if any at all, so it will take some time to get things in and send on. Main thing is they can supply what you want but the drawback with all these firms is that it requires some patience. Give them a break please, they are enthousiasts working for other enthousiasts. Kees Oudesluijs NL Mark Schneider wrote: > Listers, > > I thought I would offer a contrasting view of Heritage Upholstery. > About 6 years ago I did a complete carpet replacement in our BJ8. > When the set of carpet pieces arrived from Heritage I was baffled by > where to start. I contacted Heritage to get some advice. Very > shortly I received an email with 47 jpeg images attached. The > photographs were complete with captions and arranged numerically in > the preferred order of installation. Later in the process I ran into > a serious problem with the transmission cover segment. It simply > could not be made to fit and snap at the correct points. Heritage > replaced the piece at no charge and with no debate. I have continued > to have the same level of satisfaction with subsequent interior > upholstery orders. Heritage has done very well by me. I am sorry > others have not had a similar experience. > > Marks 3 > '66 NJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2863 - datum van uitgifte: 05/09/10 08:26:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 14:42:34 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Al Fuller Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 22:02:02 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] tonneau install procedure -- BT-7 It will expand (temperarely) when hot so if you fit it tightly it will stretch (permanently) into something that has taken the right shape. Kees Oudesluijs NL Al Fuller wrote: > If I understand all the comments correctly, a tonneau will constantly > stretch and shrink depending on the sunshine falling on it. Please correct > me if I mis-understand. > > > > Given the above, wouldn't it serve a car better to fit/stretch a tonneau on > a "medium" day, so that it is in the middle of its stretch cycle? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 15:26:34 2010 From: Randy Hicks To: TERRY COLL Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 16:28:29 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 radio recommendations Terry, whatever you buy, DO NOT get the Moss Motors Retro Sound unit if you are at all interested in quality of sound. I bought on 1 1/2 years ago it is a very poor sound and does not adjust. I bought very high rated speakers that were within specs of the radio. Additionally it takes a lot more work to get it to fit than they imply. Plus the iPod connection broke within a couple weeks. This link below is to a place that has been highly recommended to me but have not used them yet. I will. They will take a period AM or AM/FM radio and put modern electronics in to whatever specs / needs you want. You can preserve the period look this way also. http://www.turnswitch.com/ NFI. Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans '62 BN7 MkII '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M@gmail.com On May 9, 2010, at 1:04 PM, TERRY COLL wrote: > All, > > > > I'm considering installing a radio in my BJ8. I'd ideally like a stereo > AM/FM/CD unit that fits in the original spot. Any recommendations for the > unit/speakers and speaker placement? Vintage Car Radio sells an inverter so > polarity is not an issue. Thanks! > > > > Terry Coll > > '64 BJ8 > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with > Hotmail. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 > 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 18:27:15 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Charlie O'Connors" , Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 19:02:12 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stowing a Robbins Top I have used clean terry cloth towels to buffer any scratching between materials on my MGB top windows and will do the same for my Healey BT7 top. However if you have a lot of dust covering the plastic window when storing the top it may act as an abrasive when folded. So clean is important if possible. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie O'Connors" To: Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 11:59 AM Subject: [Healeys] Stowing a Robbins Top >I have a Robbins top on my 1960 BT7 and it is a fantastic top. But, can > someone tell me if there is a way for me to stow the top behind the squab > without causing damage to the rear window? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Charlie O'Connors > > Tallahassee, Florida > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 19:12:50 2010 From: To: Curt/Nancy Arndt Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 19:44:55 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Curt, Ray and all, I DO HAVE SEATBEATS IN BOTH MY HEALEYS AND I WEAR THEM. The BN7 has an inertia reel 3 pt belt, the BJ8 only lap belts. Ray stated that laying across the seat was not an option. I merely expressed disagreement with that as a possibility. With the inertia reel the shoulder part is loose enough that one could indeed lay across the seats - yes, and that choice would have to be made prior to applying the brake. I am not saying that it is what I would do if I was aware of an impending front end crash. I only am stating that I feel it is possible. Granted with the 4 pt or 5 pt belts the option is not there. Keith ---- Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > I'll assume you're kidding. > > That's about as silly as saying I'll just stick my arms out to absorb the > impact! > > SEATBEATS, USE THEM, and oh by the way, it's been proven that just using lap > belts are essentially worse than useless. Take it from the guy who wears > the five point harness cinched as tight as I can make it in the cockpit, > while my passengers just have lap belts. Why do you think the flight > attendants have you bend over in your seat as in "assume the crash > position?" > > Curt > > On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 6:33 PM, wrote: > > > Why couldn't one drop down across the passenger seat. > > > > Keith > > > > ---- Ray Carbone wrote: > > > My conclusion; if the MGA driver had a 3-point belt he would have > > > been dead as laying across the seats would not have been an option. > > > > > Ray Carbone 64BJ8P1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 20:02:25 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 19:57:38 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stowing a Robbins Top << I have used clean terry cloth towels to buffer any scratching between materials on my MGB top windows and will do the same for my Healey BT7 top. >> Amen & truth, Mark -:) !!! What I learned that awhile back [NO, I will NOT tell anybody just HOW 'long' ago tho -:)!! ] is that the "Bath" or "Beach" size [manufacturer dependant] towels come close to the size one needs.* *To "alter" the size, just cut to "close" BUT one MUST use "pinking" [or serrated] scissors so that the "new" edges do not come unraveled whilst you are looking at the "new" towel. << However if you have a lot of dust covering the plastic window when storing the top it may act as an abrasive when folded. >> Agreed and the dust WILL give one grief -:) !!. << So clean is important if possible. >> ABSOLUTELY, which is why I carry a spray bottle of plain, clean water -:) !! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the ..For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 22:18:33 2010 From: I Erbs To: "" Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 20:19:40 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Anyone have luck with back seat lap belt install? If so a how to with photos would be great I Erbs Sent from my iPod On May 9, 2010, at 4:44 PM, wrote: > Curt, Ray and all, > > I DO HAVE SEATBEATS IN BOTH MY HEALEYS AND I WEAR THEM. The BN7 has > an inertia reel 3 pt belt, the BJ8 only lap belts. Ray stated that > laying across the seat was not an option. I merely expressed > disagreement with that as a possibility. With the inertia reel the > shoulder part is loose enough that one could indeed lay across the > seats - yes, and that choice would have to be made prior to applying > the brake. > > I am not saying that it is what I would do if I was aware of an > impending front end crash. I only am stating that I feel it is > possible. Granted with the 4 pt or 5 pt belts the option is not > there. > > Keith > > ---- Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: >> I'll assume you're kidding. >> >> That's about as silly as saying I'll just stick my arms out to >> absorb the >> impact! >> >> SEATBEATS, USE THEM, and oh by the way, it's been proven that just >> using lap >> belts are essentially worse than useless. Take it from the guy who >> wears >> the five point harness cinched as tight as I can make it in the >> cockpit, >> while my passengers just have lap belts. Why do you think the flight >> attendants have you bend over in your seat as in "assume the crash >> position?" >> >> Curt >> >> On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 6:33 PM, wrote: >> >>> Why couldn't one drop down across the passenger seat. >>> >>> Keith >>> >>> ---- Ray Carbone wrote: >>>> My conclusion; if the MGA driver had a 3-point belt he would have >>>> been dead as laying across the seats would not have been an option. >>> >>>> Ray Carbone 64BJ8P1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 01:52:15 2010 From: "Ron" To: Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 09:05:30 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dead generator To all of you who read my cry for help and specificallly those who gave me advise, here is an update. It took a while to get my generator problems fixed since I was on a one week holiday first. I decided to take the easy approach: go back to the garage (driving the Healey with the faulty generator still mounted) where I bought the generator. My luck is that this garageowner repairs/owns/restores big Healeys and is only half an hour away.. His first conclusion was that the voltage regulator was probably broken. After having him convinced that I should have read generator output on my voltmeter, he decided to get his and and some documentation. It looked like the generator was not OK. He got a new generator and bolted it on my engine. I started the engine and after about one second, the ignition light dimmed. Problem fixed!! So this was another great example of Murphy's law, where both my old generator and the new one showed exactely the same symptoms. Best regards, Ron Kraimaat BJ8'64 Ph1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 01:54:03 2010 From: "Rinus Sinke" To: Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 09:21:08 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Le Mans Classic Members of the list, Look at www.healeymeetslemans.nl to see or download a nice poster from the Dutch Healey Competitions for the Le Mans Classic 2010. Regards Rinus Sinke Primrose yellow AH 3000 MK I on poster. Rinus Sinke Rijksweg Zuid 20 6031RL Nederweert The Netherlands 0031495632707 0031495585972 fax 0031653196210 mob. rinussinke@planet.nl _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 03:30:07 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Ron Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 16:34:22 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dead generator Curses, that Murphy is a nasty fellow! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 3:05 PM, Ron wrote: > To all of you who read my cry for help and specificallly those who gave me > advise, here is an update. > > It took a while to get my generator problems fixed since I was on a one > week > holiday first. > I decided to take the easy approach: go back to the garage (driving the > Healey > with the faulty generator still mounted) where I bought the generator. My > luck > is that this garageowner repairs/owns/restores big Healeys and is only half > an > hour away.. > > His first conclusion was that the voltage regulator was probably broken. > After > having him convinced that I should have read generator output on my > voltmeter, > he decided to get his and and some documentation. It looked like the > generator > was not OK. > He got a new generator and bolted it on my engine. I started the engine and > after about one second, the ignition light dimmed. > Problem fixed!! > > So this was another great example of Murphy's law, where both my old > generator > and the new one showed exactely the same symptoms. > > Best regards, > Ron Kraimaat > BJ8'64 Ph1 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 04:27:50 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Alan Seigrist Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 11:34:25 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dead generator Sorry, its female. I am married to one for 36 years and boy do I know that law.. Kees Oudesluijs NL Alan Seigrist wrote: > Curses, that Murphy is a nasty fellow! > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > > On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 3:05 PM, Ron wrote: > > >> To all of you who read my cry for help and specificallly those who gave me >> advise, here is an update. >> >> It took a while to get my generator problems fixed since I was on a one >> week >> holiday first. >> I decided to take the easy approach: go back to the garage (driving the >> Healey >> with the faulty generator still mounted) where I bought the generator. My >> luck >> is that this garageowner repairs/owns/restores big Healeys and is only half >> an >> hour away.. >> >> His first conclusion was that the voltage regulator was probably broken. >> After >> having him convinced that I should have read generator output on my >> voltmeter, >> he decided to get his and and some documentation. It looked like the >> generator >> was not OK. >> He got a new generator and bolted it on my engine. I started the engine and >> after about one second, the ignition light dimmed. >> Problem fixed!! >> >> So this was another great example of Murphy's law, where both my old >> generator >> and the new one showed exactely the same symptoms. >> >> Best regards, >> Ron Kraimaat >> BJ8'64 Ph1 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2865 - datum van uitgifte: 05/10/10 08:26:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 04:29:06 2010 From: Jaap Aeckerlin To: Healey forum Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 11:46:54 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Grease / cable? Guys, I used to be the representative for Oilite self-lubricating bearings in The Netherlands. The oiling instructions are as Kees suggested: immerse in (engine) oil, heat till approx 80 to 90 deg C or 175 to 195 F, cool down to room temp, take bearing(s) out. Do NOT use grease as grease will clog the pores of the bearing. Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/5/9 Alan Seigrist > All - > > I have my old Lucas CRT wiper motor apart and am wondering if packing the > gear case / brass armature bearing / cable with white lithium wheel bearing > grease is ok? > > I note the 59 yr. old bearing grease in the case is still softish, but very > sticky, was wondering it that's the way this stuff is supposed to be? If > not I'll clear it all out, the motor turns a bit slow and I think it's > because of the sticky grease. > > Thoughts? > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 04:59:39 2010 From: Bob Haskell To: Healey forum Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 06:21:33 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Le Mans Classic At the bottom of the poster is "Healey Museum Raceteam healeymuseum.nl". Anyone in the know care to comment? Will there be a brick and mortar museum? The website seems to be empty. Bob Haskell 62 tri-carb Rinus Sinke wrote: > Members of the list, > Look at www.healeymeetslemans.nl to see or download a nice poster from the > Dutch Healey Competitions for the Le Mans Classic 2010. > Regards > Rinus Sinke > Primrose yellow AH 3000 MK I on poster. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 05:01:03 2010 From: Derek Job To: Rinus Sinke Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 12:26:31 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Le Mans Classic Great poster. I plan to be at the Classic, I'll only be driving a BJ9 but never mind. Any other listers planning to attend?. Rinus Will the Dutch club be having a large marquee again? cheers Derek www.healeysix.net On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 9:21 AM, Rinus Sinke wrote: > Members of the list, > Look at www.healeymeetslemans.nl to see or download a nice poster from the > Dutch Healey Competitions for the Le Mans Classic 2010. > Regards > Rinus Sinke > Primrose yellow AH 3000 MK I on poster. > > Rinus Sinke > Rijksweg Zuid 20 > 6031RL Nederweert > The Netherlands > 0031495632707 > 0031495585972 fax > 0031653196210 mob. > rinussinke@planet.nl > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 08:10:26 2010 From: warthodson@aol.com To: rinussinke@planet.nl, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 09:34:08 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Le Mans Classic Thanks for the link. Very interesting site. I have one question. When I click on most of the videos nothing happens. What am I doing wrong? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Rinus Sinke To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Mon, May 10, 2010 2:21 am Subject: [Healeys] Le Mans Classic Members of the list, ook at www.healeymeetslemans.nl to see or download a nice poster from the utch Healey Competitions for the Le Mans Classic 2010. egards inus Sinke rimrose yellow AH 3000 MK I on poster. Rinus Sinke ijksweg Zuid 20 031RL Nederweert he Netherlands 031495632707 031495585972 fax 031653196210 mob. inussinke@planet.nl ______________________________________________ ealeys@autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 09:38:12 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: warthodson@aol.com Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 22:48:44 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Le Mans Classic Gary - You have to press your mouse button really hard. The website is in Europe so it takes an extra hard push for the internets to get there. If you have any other technology questions, just let me know. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 9:34 PM, wrote: > Thanks for the link. Very interesting site. I have one question. When I > click > on most of the videos nothing happens. What am I doing wrong? > Gary Hodson _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 12:13:47 2010 From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 10:36:25 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Le Mans Classic Gary: When I clicked on the first video (movie), it said "searching". Nothing else happened. I moved my cursor over the black screen and the 'video control panel' came up. I clicked on the 'play' button and the video started. All that I viewed worked using that sequence. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 6:34 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Le Mans Classic > Thanks for the link. Very interesting site. I have one question. When I > click > on most of the videos nothing happens. What am I doing wrong? > Gary Hodson _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 13:19:14 2010 From: warthodson@aol.com To: healey.nut@gmail.com Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 14:18:49 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Le Mans Classic OK, I'll try using my knockoff hammer. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: warthodson@aol.com Cc: rinussinke@planet.nl; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Mon, May 10, 2010 9:48 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Le Mans Classic Gary - You have to press your mouse button really hard. The website is in Europe so it takes an extra hard push for the internets to get there. If you have any other technology questions, just let me know. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 9:34 PM, wrote: Thanks for the link. Very interesting site. I have one question. When I click on most of the videos nothing happens. What am I doing wrong? Gary Hodson _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 13:39:55 2010 From: "J. Scott Morris" To: Ron , Alan Seigrist , Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 12:03:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dead generator Awe, Murphy is not that bad of aB fellow. B The law really isB bif it can happen, it will happen.b. B And my own corollary is "Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives" B Morrisbs Corollary:B B Keep Smiling, Murphy LivesMurphy's Law and it's derivatives exist for all time.B We never know what will go right/wrongat the best/worst time.B We have only two options, weep or smile.B Smiling makes it easier when it goes wrong and makes it that much better when everything goes right.B Weeping onlymakes bad times worse and dampens the good times.B B No contest b keep smiling.B Besides, it improves your face value.B b J. Scott Morris, April 10, 1984 B B --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada; '60 MkI BN7 & '62 MkII BT7 J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, B Murphy Lives --- On Mon, 5/10/10, Alan Seigrist wrote: From: Alan Seigrist Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dead generator To: "Ron" Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Received: Monday, May 10, 2010, 4:34 AM Curses, that Murphy is a nasty fellow! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 3:05 PM, Ron wrote: To all of you who read my cry for help and specificallly those who gave me advise, here is an update.B B It took a while to get my generator problems fixed since I was on a one week holiday first. I decided to take the easy approach: go back to the garage (driving the HealeyB with the faulty generator still mounted) where I bought the generator. My luck is that this garageowner repairs/owns/restores big Healeys and is only half an hour away.. His first conclusion was that the voltage regulator was probably broken. After having him convinced that I should have read generator output on my voltmeter, he decided to get his and and some documentation. It looked like the generator was not OK. He got a new generator and bolted it on my engine. I started the engine and after about one second, the ignition light dimmed. Problem fixed!! So this was another great example of Murphy's law, where both my old generator and the new one showed exactely the same symptoms. Best regards, Ron Kraimaat BJ8'64 Ph1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 14:12:10 2010 From: To: Healeys Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 19:36:23 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Have you ever rolled a car? I have. I flipped an MGB and landed upside down about 15 feet below road level. I was wearing a ( lap and shoulder ) seatbelt with no roll bar and, while I know all accidents are different and one solution doesn't suit all circumstances, all I could see was a blur of spinning leaves and my life flashing before my eyes. The forces acting on me did not allow for me to do anything except go for the ride. I wound up suspended above the ground, tangled up in the seatbelt. Just dumb luck, I figure. I'm not saying that hugging the passenger seat while wearing a seatbelt, isn't an option in some cases though. I did just that here:http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/Bea.htm Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 12:19:39 +0800 > From: healey.nut@gmail.com > > Make sure your passenger belt is always latched, then you can grab it > and pull yourself down when you're a flippin' > > > On 5/9/10, Shop at " Just Brits " wrote: > > << Laying across the seats is absolutely possible with a 3 point lap > > sash seatbelt. > > The shoulder strap passes over the shoulder closest to the door - not > > the 'inside' shoulder. >> > > > > Whilst true Chris, the 'move' IS greatly impeded. > > > > Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 15:14:27 2010 From: "Dan Stromquist" To: Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 15:23:07 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] dumb question ... Thanks Rick: I am personally running the rich UN needles because the prior shop said I needed to. Now that I know how to set the BJ8 carbs, I am wondering whether they were right or not. They had it way out of tune. About all I do when setting the carb is to get the settings correct at idle so the needles should make no diff if they are the same diameter at idle. After that the tuneup needles in the dashpots go up and down in sync as I increase the RPMs. I suppose if it was put on a DYNO, or put an O2 meter on the exhaust, or by one of the other methods we could find a better needle match at all the other RPMs. Dan -----Original Message----- From: Eric (Rick) Wilkins [mailto:e-wilkins@cox.net] Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 3:53 PM To: Dan Stromquist Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] dumb question ... I just checked the application lists for BJ8, The "standard" needle is a UH, the rich needle is UN. UH UN .124 .124 .104 .1006 .084 .0806 Wilko On May 7, 2010, at 1:46 PM, Dan Stromquist wrote: > Bob: > I asked the same question and was told the needle circumference > enriched the > mixture only at higher RPMs and that at idle or near idle the needle > was the > same as standard. > Dan > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net > ] > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 4:24 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] dumb question ... > > A 'UN' (rich) SU needle should enrichen the mixture compared to a > standard > needle, correct? > > > bs > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan@warner- > associates.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 15:22:48 2010 From: Oudesluys To: TERRY COLL Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 22:35:26 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 radio recommendations A radio CD-player is not a good idea in these cars. The CD will jump tracks all the time. Better get a period 2-shaft FM/AM radio or radio-cassette player (slightly later date) e.g. from Becker or Blaupunkt. They often have an AUX input DIN-socket that can be used for an MP3 unit or stick. I am sure there are other makes as well that have the AUX input socket. Kees Oudesluijs NL TERRY COLL wrote: > All, > > > > I'm considering installing a radio in my BJ8. I'd ideally like a stereo > AM/FM/CD unit that fits in the original spot. Any recommendations for the > unit/speakers and speaker placement? Vintage Car Radio sells an inverter so > polarity is not an issue. Thanks! > > > > Terry Coll > > '64 BJ8 > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with > Hotmail. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 > 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2863 - datum van uitgifte: 05/09/10 08:26:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 15:57:56 2010 From: "Freese, Ken" To: "Dan Stromquist" , Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 14:25:18 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] dumb question ... I thought maybe because of headers, I might have to change needles, but the engine dyno said standards were still the right ones. I also am driving around with a O2 meter under the dash and standards seem ok. I made a needle chart with graph paper years ago and the difference between the three needles only occurs at higher RPM. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 - _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 16:58:49 2010 From: Jim LeBlanc To: Healey List Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 15:18:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question on Water Hose Clamps - BN2 What are the concours correct water hose clamps for a late model 1956 BN2? I am looking at March-April 2010 Healey Mag p. 11. Are these also correct for the BN2? Looks like wire clamps with slotted round-head screws. So I order clamps from Moss and replace the hex head screws with round-head screws. Right? Thanks, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 16:59:36 2010 From: "Keith Taylor" To: Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 08:21:27 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Heater fixing Looking for fixing setup for a BN2 heater. OZ cars really came with a heater , as a kid "who cared" now in my twilight years I am looking to add this comfort I have the heater but cannot fathom how it is mounted maybe this heater is incomplete (sans brackets) ! Anyone from more frigid parts able to photo the fixing setup ? My research has drawn a blank. Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ BN1.........If I ever finish them BN2................ " .............. 100M.......Getting close _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 18:27:53 2010 From: "John Snyder" To: Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 16:45:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heritage Problem Resolved I got a call from Tony Hazell, Owner of Heritage this afternoon. He had a tough time understanding me, because I have to use an electronic larynx which does not work well w/ a phone. My interior had been finished for some time, but no one had contacted me with the final charges which would include the shipping. Tony emailed me an invoice, and I sent them a check this afternoon. My thanks to Rich Chrysler and Paul C in North Vancouver for helping me get this straightened out. John Snyder _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 19:27:16 2010 From: "allen c miller jr" To: "Healey List" Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 20:15:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 cylinder head oil feed pipe Moss supplies the banjo bolt and banjo fitting for the cylinder head assembly on 100-4's, but not the tapered thread union. they do carry the entire array for the 100-6 2-port head. can you substitute the tapered thread union for 100-6's in place of the one which was supplied on 100-4's, or is it one of those thread transitions that makes it impossible? alternately, can you modify a brake caliper union to fit in? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 19:27:49 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Jim LeBlanc" , "Healey List" Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 20:55:13 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question on Water Hose Clamps - BN2 Jim, Sounds to me that you need to have the National Concours Registry 2010 CD that has all this detailed information in it. The clamps for the BN2 would be the flat band style with the split cotter pin head that winds it up to tighten. The double wire clamps didn't come in 'till much later, with the late 100/Six's Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jim LeBlanc" Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 6:18 PM To: "Healey List" Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question on Water Hose Clamps - BN2 > > What are the concours correct water hose clamps for a late model 1956 BN2? > > I am looking at March-April 2010 Healey Mag p. 11. Are these also correct > for > the BN2? > > Looks like wire clamps with slotted round-head screws. So I order clamps > from > Moss and replace the hex head screws with round-head screws. Right? > > Thanks, > > Jim LeBlanc > 1956 100-M > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 19:58:14 2010 From: Jim LeBlanc To: Healey List , Rich C Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 18:07:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question on Water Hose Clamps - BN2 Rich, I know the parts (bands) you describe and have heard Roger Moment discuss proper installation. Still I pause putting these on a driver. I keep one on my cold air box. Let me know where to order the CD. Been many years since studying this subject. Thanks, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M --- On Mon, 5/10/10, Rich C wrote: From: Rich C Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question on Water Hose Clamps - BN2 To: "Jim LeBlanc" , "Healey List" Date: Monday, May 10, 2010, 5:55 PM Jim, Sounds to me that you need to have the National Concours Registry 2010 CD that has all this detailed information in it. The clamps for the BN2 would be the flat band style with the split cotter pin head that winds it up to tighten. The double wire clamps didn't come in 'till much later, with the late 100/Six's Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jim LeBlanc" Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 6:18 PM To: "Healey List" Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question on Water Hose Clamps - BN2 > > What are the concours correct water hose clamps for a late model 1956 BN2? > > I am looking at March-April 2010 Healey Mag p. 11. Are these also correct for > the BN2? > > Looks like wire clamps with slotted round-head screws. So I order clamps from > Moss and replace the hex head screws with round-head screws. Right? > > Thanks, > > Jim LeBlanc > 1956 100-M > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 20:28:08 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: allen c miller jr Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 09:40:11 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 cylinder head oil feed pipe Allen - Are you talking about the Rocker Arm pedestal? if you need it restored, just send your whole rocker arm to Rocker Arm Specialists. HIGHLY recommended and he will fix all that for you: http://www.rockerarms.com/ I had him rebuild my rocker arm assembly (same as the 100) and he replaced that pedestal which had the bad threads. His prices are VERY reasonable. Incidentally, when assembling the rocker arms, it is better to put the oil feed pipe on the rocker pedestal first, then connect it to the head second, not the other way around. If you do that you'll never have stripped threads. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 8:15 AM, allen c miller jr wrote: > Moss supplies the banjo bolt and banjo fitting for the cylinder head > assembly > on 100-4's, but not the tapered thread union. they do carry the entire > array > for the 100-6 2-port head. > > can you substitute the tapered thread union for 100-6's in place of the one > which was supplied on 100-4's, or is it one of those thread transitions > that > makes it impossible? alternately, can you modify a brake caliper union to > fit > in? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 20:30:14 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Keith Taylor" , Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 21:44:06 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Heater fixing Keith, There are 3 studs that protrude from the back face (toward the front of the car) of the heater/blower assembly. The two upper studs pass through a single vertical plate that sits up from the scuttle box on the centre line of the car. These will be fastened by running flat washers, lock washers and 1/4" nuts onto the studs. The third stud will pass through a single hole and into the scuttle box. The flat, lock, and nut will be attached by installing them in through the single large hole in the bulkhead, again on centre line of the car, and located right behind the engine. When these are installed, a blanking plug fills the access hole in the bulkhead. The 3 mounting point are visible on this freshly prepared chassis bulkhead. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Keith Taylor" Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 6:21 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Heater fixing > Looking for fixing setup for a BN2 heater. OZ cars really came with a > heater > , > as a kid "who cared" now in my twilight years I am looking to add this > comfort > I have the heater but cannot fathom how it is mounted maybe this heater is > incomplete (sans brackets) ! Anyone from more frigid parts able to photo > the > fixing setup ? My research has drawn a blank. > > Keith Taylor > WAMBERAL OZ > BN1.........If I ever finish them > BN2................ " .............. > 100M.......Getting close [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr10 037.jpg] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 20:30:35 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Keith Taylor" , Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 21:44:06 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Heater fixing Keith, There are 3 studs that protrude from the back face (toward the front of the car) of the heater/blower assembly. The two upper studs pass through a single vertical plate that sits up from the scuttle box on the centre line of the car. These will be fastened by running flat washers, lock washers and 1/4" nuts onto the studs. The third stud will pass through a single hole and into the scuttle box. The flat, lock, and nut will be attached by installing them in through the single large hole in the bulkhead, again on centre line of the car, and located right behind the engine. When these are installed, a blanking plug fills the access hole in the bulkhead. The 3 mounting point are visible on this freshly prepared chassis bulkhead. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Keith Taylor" Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 6:21 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Heater fixing > Looking for fixing setup for a BN2 heater. OZ cars really came with a > heater > , > as a kid "who cared" now in my twilight years I am looking to add this > comfort > I have the heater but cannot fathom how it is mounted maybe this heater is > incomplete (sans brackets) ! Anyone from more frigid parts able to photo > the > fixing setup ? My research has drawn a blank. > > Keith Taylor > WAMBERAL OZ > BN1.........If I ever finish them > BN2................ " .............. > 100M.......Getting close [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr10 037.jpg] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 21:01:16 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Healey List Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 21:26:40 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question on Water Hose Clamps - BN2 << Let me know where to order the CD. Been many years since studying this subject. >> Info is in both the AHCA "Membership Book" and the AHCUSA "Resource Book". _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 21:03:43 2010 From: "John Soderling" To: "allen c miller jr" , "Healey List" Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 19:31:16 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 cylinder head oil feed pipe Allen, Try British Car Specialists. They usually have hard-to-find stuff. Vrooom vrooom, John -------------------------------------------------- From: "allen c miller jr" Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 5:15 PM To: "Healey List" Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 cylinder head oil feed pipe > Moss supplies the banjo bolt and banjo fitting for the cylinder head > assembly > on 100-4's, but not the tapered thread union. they do carry the entire > array > for the 100-6 2-port head. > > can you substitute the tapered thread union for 100-6's in place of the > one > which was supplied on 100-4's, or is it one of those thread transitions > that > makes it impossible? alternately, can you modify a brake caliper union to > fit > in? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@astound.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 21:33:26 2010 From: "Keith Taylor" To: "Rich C" Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 13:04:01 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Heater fixing THANKS for that Ritch A "U" shaped bracket was bolted to the 2 top holes why ? on removal it all fell into place ....easy peasy ... Much appreciated Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ 100M........getting closer to vroom vroom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich C" To: "Keith Taylor" ; Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 11:44 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Heater fixing > Keith, > > There are 3 studs that protrude from the back face (toward the front of > the > car) of the heater/blower assembly. The two upper studs pass through a > single vertical plate that sits up from the scuttle box on the centre line > of the car. These will be fastened by running flat washers, lock washers > and > 1/4" nuts onto the studs. The third stud will pass through a single hole > and > into the scuttle box. The flat, lock, and nut will be attached by > installing > them in through the single large hole in the bulkhead, again on centre > line > of the car, and located right behind the engine. When these are installed, > a > blanking plug fills the access hole in the bulkhead. > The 3 mounting point are visible on this freshly prepared chassis > bulkhead. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Keith Taylor" > Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 6:21 PM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Heater fixing > >> Looking for fixing setup for a BN2 heater. OZ cars really came with a >> heater >> , >> as a kid "who cared" now in my twilight years I am looking to add this >> comfort >> I have the heater but cannot fathom how it is mounted maybe this heater >> is >> incomplete (sans brackets) ! Anyone from more frigid parts able to photo >> the >> fixing setup ? My research has drawn a blank. >> >> Keith Taylor >> WAMBERAL OZ >> BN1.........If I ever finish them >> BN2................ " .............. >> 100M.......Getting close _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 23:27:10 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Chris Dimmock Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 21:33:45 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey with seatbelts after accident Chris, You know I was only kidding about the elevator since we all know that elevators don't work "down unda" since you're all upside down to begin with. ;-) Cheers, Curt On Sun, May 9, 2010 at 2:23 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hi Curt, > > I don't need to try to lie down if I roll my BJ8, and have never been > interested in testing the theory. > > As I said, > > "My Healey, and 2 previous Sprites have all had rollbars and 4/ 5 point > harnesses." > > Proper full width rollbars, several inches above my head. > > And I use the stairs > ;-) > Chris > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 09/05/2010, at 1:23 PM, "Curt/Nancy Arndt" < > cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote: > > Chris, > > Watch some videos of violent rollover crashes and tell me how you think > you'll be able to stay lying down when the car rolls violently 4 or 5 > times. > > I hope you also don't think that if the elevator fails you can just jump up > the moment before impact ;-^) > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 7:16 PM, Chris Dimmock < > austin.healey@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Hi Ray, seatbelts have been compulsory (both fitment and wearing) in >> Australia for around 40 years. >> >> Laying across the seats is absolutely possible with a 3 point lap sash >> seatbelt. The shoulder strap passes over the shoulder closest to the door - >> not the 'inside' shoulder. >> >> Chris >> >> www.myaustinhealey.com >> Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 23:58:18 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys-request@autox.team.net, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 00:59:02 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seat belts In a message dated 5/10/10 7:30:24 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > Have you ever rolled a car? > I have. I flipped an MGB and landed upside down about 15 feet below road > level. I was wearing a ( lap and shoulder ) seatbelt with no roll bar > and, > while I know all accidents are different and one solution doesn't suit all > circumstances, all I could see was a blur of spinning leaves and my life > flashing before my eyes. The forces acting on me did not allow for me to > do > anything except go for the ride. I wound up suspended above the ground, > tangled up in the seatbelt. Just dumb luck, I figure. > I'm not saying that hugging the passenger seat while wearing a seatbelt, > isn't > an option in some cases though. I did just that > Did the same thing on Friday October 13, 1972 (you won't wonder why I remember the date.) Early snow in Nova Scotia, and my first wife and I were driving our Datsun 2000 home from holiday towards New York. About noon, coming up towards an overpass, we were t-boned by a young driver who had his license for only three days, sliding out of control on the "bridges freeze first" ice. Knocked us over the embankment, and we rolled two and a half times before coming to rest upside down. As the car started to go over the first time, all i could remember was thinking about all the effort I'd put in up to that point in my life wasted in an instant. At the end of it, my wife found herself hanging upside down, me unconscious next to her (having knocked my head on the steering wheel), so she reached over and started beeping the horn, then looked at me and realized I still had my pipe in my mouth, so she removed that, thinking it would be silly of them to find me dead with my pipe in my mouth (shock does strange things to your mind). Once the handy Canadian road crew working nearby had rolled the car over (by hand -- how many guys does that take?) they got me out, and I came to as they were loading me into the ambulance. Net result: one very totalled 1969 Datsun 2000, and lots of seat belt bruises and sore muscles on both of us. Score two for seat belts, even in roadsters with no roll bars. Now I even put my belt on in the shuttle van going to the remote airport parking lot. Cheers Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 23:58:46 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 01:01:56 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original style hose clamps In a message dated 5/10/10 7:30:24 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > What are the concours correct water hose clamps for a late model 1956 > BN2? > > I am looking at March-April 2010 Healey Mag p. 11. Are these also correct > for > the BN2? > > Looks like wire clamps with slotted round-head screws. So I order clamps > from > Moss and replace the hex head screws with round-head screws. Right? > > Thanks, > > Jim LeBlanc > 1956 100-M > No, the BN2 takes ribbon band clamps (if memory serves, I think Norman called them "Jubilee clamps." Check with British Car Specialists; if anyone has them, they will. But don't guess; order the concours guidelines from Mike Osipik (info in the back of the AH Magazine) and be sure. Cheers Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 23:58:58 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 01:04:00 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Band Clamps, part 2 In a message dated 5/10/10 7:30:24 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > > I know the parts (bands) you describe and have heard Roger Moment discuss > proper installation. Still I pause putting these on a driver. I keep one > on my > cold air box. > They will work just fine; if anything, they're over-engineered compared to the later wire clamps, and are actually better than the standard clamps everyone sells these days. Cheers gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 01:26:50 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Editorgary@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 14:29:57 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seat belts Gary - Incredible story. Must make you thankful to be alive and for what you have. Sort of seems like the stories we all know of guys being in battle and surviving. Thanks for that! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 12:59 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 5/10/10 7:30:24 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net > writes: > > > > Have you ever rolled a car? > > I have. I flipped an MGB and landed upside down about 15 feet below road > > level. I was wearing a ( lap and shoulder ) seatbelt with no roll bar > > and, > > while I know all accidents are different and one solution doesn't suit > all > > circumstances, all I could see was a blur of spinning leaves and my life > > flashing before my eyes. The forces acting on me did not allow for me to > > do > > anything except go for the ride. I wound up suspended above the ground, > > tangled up in the seatbelt. Just dumb luck, I figure. > > I'm not saying that hugging the passenger seat while wearing a seatbelt, > > isn't > > an option in some cases though. I did just that > > > > Did the same thing on Friday October 13, 1972 (you won't wonder why I > remember the date.) Early snow in Nova Scotia, and my first wife and I were > driving our Datsun 2000 home from holiday towards New York. About noon, > coming > up > towards an overpass, we were t-boned by a young driver who had his license > for only three days, sliding out of control on the "bridges freeze first" > ice. Knocked us over the embankment, and we rolled two and a half times > before > coming to rest upside down. As the car started to go over the first time, > all i could remember was thinking about all the effort I'd put in up to > that > point in my life wasted in an instant. > At the end of it, my wife found herself hanging upside down, me unconscious > next to her (having knocked my head on the steering wheel), so she reached > over and started beeping the horn, then looked at me and realized I still > had my pipe in my mouth, so she removed that, thinking it would be silly of > them to find me dead with my pipe in my mouth (shock does strange things to > your mind). Once the handy Canadian road crew working nearby had rolled the > car over (by hand -- how many guys does that take?) they got me out, and I > came to as they were loading me into the ambulance. > Net result: one very totalled 1969 Datsun 2000, and lots of seat belt > bruises and sore muscles on both of us. Score two for seat belts, even in > roadsters with no roll bars. > Now I even put my belt on in the shuttle van going to the remote airport > parking lot. > > Cheers > Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 01:58:31 2010 From: John Harper To: Editorgary@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 08:12:31 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original style hose clamps Gary I agree with you regarding ribbon clamps. I let Roger Moment have a few originals in BMC packets some years ago. However I believe that your reference to Norman is wrong. Jubilee is or was in 1956, a British company that made worm drive hose clips. Not ribbon type to the best of my knowledge The company that made them was L. Robinson and Co. (Gillingham) Ltd. Regards > >> What are the concours correct water hose clamps for a late model 1956 >> BN2? >> >> >> Looks like wire clamps with slotted round-head screws. So I order clamps >> from >> Moss and replace the hex head screws with round-head screws. Right? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Jim LeBlanc >> 1956 100-M >> > >No, the BN2 takes ribbon band clamps (if memory serves, I think Norman >called them "Jubilee clamps." Check with British Car Specialists; if >anyone has > >Cheers >Gary -- John Harper _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 03:31:07 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: ah@jharper.demon.co.uk Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 04:31:23 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original style hose clamps In a message dated 5/11/10 12:13:13 AM, ah@jharper.demon.co.uk writes: > However I believe that your reference to Norman is wrong. Jubilee is or > was in 1956, a British company that made worm drive hose clips. Not > ribbon type to the best of my knowledge The company that made them was > L. Robinson and Co. (Gillingham) Ltd. > Thanks - as i said, writing from memory. G. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 05:59:49 2010 From: Kent McLean To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 07:01:47 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Heater fixing Keith Taylor wrote: > Looking for fixing setup for a BN2 heater. OZ cars really came with a > heater, as a kid "who cared" now in my twilight years I am looking to add > this comfort I have the heater but cannot fathom how it is mounted maybe > this heater is incomplete (sans brackets) ! Anyone from more frigid parts > able to photo the fixing setup ? My research has drawn a blank. If you are just looking to keep warm, you may find this will keep you warmer with a lot less installation effort: The arms are also wired, so your torso and arms get heat. It works great on my motorcycle for hours down to 32F/0C. You can probably find a more local vendor. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 08:27:14 2010 From: Peter Caldwell To: Healey List Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 08:39:45 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question on Water Hose Clamps - BN2 At 05:18 PM 5/10/2010, Jim LeBlanc wrote: >SNIP >Looks like wire clamps with slotted round-head screws. So I order clamps from >Moss and replace the hex head screws with round-head screws. Right? > >Thanks, > >Jim LeBlanc >1956 100-M -------------------------------- Further to just this tactic...... you'll find the threads on the Moss clamps are METRIC... 5 MM At least I did. Peter C. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 10:00:06 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Jim LeBlanc Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 08:09:19 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question on Water Hose Clamps - BN2 Jim, If you need a set of these clamps (4) I had several dozen made up some years ago that I sold to fellow list members. Let me know and I can send you out a set. I only have several sets left. Cheers, Curt On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 6:07 PM, Jim LeBlanc wrote: > Rich, > > I know the parts (bands) you describe and have heard Roger Moment discuss > proper installation. Still I pause putting these on a driver. I keep one on > my > cold air box. > > Let me know where to order the CD. Been many years since studying this > subject. > > Thanks, > > Jim LeBlanc > 1956 100-M > > --- On Mon, 5/10/10, Rich C wrote: > > > From: Rich C > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question on Water Hose Clamps - BN2 > To: "Jim LeBlanc" , "Healey List" > > Date: Monday, May 10, 2010, 5:55 PM > > > Jim, > > Sounds to me that you need to have the National Concours Registry 2010 CD > that > has all this detailed information in it. The clamps for the BN2 would be > the > flat band style with the split cotter pin head that winds it up to tighten. > The double wire clamps didn't come in 'till much later, with the late > 100/Six's > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Jim LeBlanc" > Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 6:18 PM > To: "Healey List" > Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question on Water Hose Clamps - BN2 > > > > > What are the concours correct water hose clamps for a late model 1956 > BN2? > > > > I am looking at March-April 2010 Healey Mag p. 11. Are these also correct > for > > the BN2? > > > > Looks like wire clamps with slotted round-head screws. So I order clamps > from > > Moss and replace the hex head screws with round-head screws. Right? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Jim LeBlanc > > 1956 100-M > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 12:28:40 2010 From: "Ron Ray" To: "'Healey List'" Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 12:41:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Crankshaft pulley/damper Folks, A friend is need of a crankshaft pulley/damper for a BJ8. His preference is to buy an original used one in good condition rather than buying the harmonic crank balancer offered by Moss. Any comments on this approach? If anyone has a used pulley/damper and is willing to sell it, please contact me off list. Thanks. Ron _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 14:18:27 2010 From: Geoff Chrysler To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 12:23:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 15:44:53 2010 From: "Ray Carbone" To: "Healeys" , Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 16:47:39 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Crankshaft pulley/damper Hi Ron, If your problem is a delaminated harmonic balancer, I would suggest you not get another questionable 40-year old unit and investigate the original's repair. A while back, a friend was looking for a Healey harmonic damper and found Dale Manufacturing ( http://www.dalemfg.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm ), a small organization that repaired his original for about $100 + shipping. They dismantled his original unit and remanufactured it with a life time guaranty on the rubber bond. This was a few years ago and he has had no problems with the unit to date. No Financial Interest Ray 64BJ8P1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 16:10:09 2010 From: "donham" To: "Healeys" Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 16:47:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] New Radiator-BJ7 I need suggestions on vendors and types of a new radiator for my BJ7. Would appreciate any help. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 17:08:23 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: donham , Healeys Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 06:40:06 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Radiator-BJ7 I would encourage you NOT to purchase an aluminum radiator. Impossible to maintain with time, and needs a screen on the hot pipe to keep crud out of the rad. If you still have your old radiator, why don't you just have it recored? If not, it is best just to buy a used one and have it recored. Alan On 5/12/10, donham wrote: > I need suggestions on vendors and types of a new radiator for my BJ7. Would > appreciate any help. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 17:26:10 2010 From: "Dan Stromquist" To: Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 18:00:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Glue There are multiple contact glues on the market and we cannot get LePages here in the Minneapolis that I can find. Per the archives, the 3M products are recommended. Which is the best choice for the interior on wood: 3M (spray) 8090, 8088 or ? Which is the best choice for the door trim and weather stripping: 3M (tube) 8008, 8011 or ? Dan _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 17:26:26 2010 From: To: healey help Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 19:02:56 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Radiator-BJ7 I don't know about vendors, but I would highly recommend getting a double core installed. The difference is fantastic and you can't tell the difference when lookiing at it. Bill BJ7 > From: donham1@cox.net > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 16:47:06 -0500 > Subject: [Healeys] New Radiator-BJ7 > > I need suggestions on vendors and types of a new radiator for my BJ7. Would > appreciate any help. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/insptwo@msn.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 17:26:46 2010 From: "Mike Slechta" To: "donham" , "Healeys" Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 18:05:23 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Radiator-BJ7 I have a stock radiator that I took out of my '65 BJ-8 several years ago. There was nothing wrong with it when I took it out, but I got a deal on a "Texas Cooler" that I couldn't pass up. Asking $150 plus shipping from WI. Mad Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: donham To: Healeys Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 4:47 PM Subject: [Healeys] New Radiator-BJ7 I need suggestions on vendors and types of a new radiator for my BJ7. Would appreciate any help. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta@chartermi.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 18:23:46 2010 From: Leonard Berkowitz To: Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 19:55:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] new radiator BJ7 If you need a new radiator get your old one recored with extra rows. It will require modification of the lower tank and a shoe horn to reinstall, but you almost can't tell the difference when you look at it and what a difference. I had mine done several years ago. My car has never run so well. Runs under 200F under almost every condition. I tried everything. Got the old one recored to original, Texas cooler, 6 blade California fan, oil cooler, etc. Nothing worked! Adding extra rows cured everything. I can run at 70 MPH in 90F + and the car never gets to hot. _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 18:39:56 2010 From: Leonard Berkowitz To: Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 19:56:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] new radiator BJ7 If you need a new radiator get your old one recored with extra rows. It will require modification of the lower tank and a shoe horn to reinstall, but you almost can't tell the difference when you look at it and what a difference. I had mine done several years ago. My car has never run so well. Runs under 200F under almost every condition. I tried everything. Got the old one recored to original, Texas cooler, 6 blade California fan, oil cooler, etc. Nothing worked! Adding extra rows cured everything. I can run at 70 MPH in 90F + and the car never gets to hot. _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 18:40:19 2010 From: Leonard Berkowitz To: Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 19:59:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] new radiator BJ7 If you need a new radiator get your old one recored with extra rows. It will require modification of the lower tank and a shoe hor I had mine done several years ago. My car has never run so well. Runs under 200 under almost every condition. I tried everything. Got the old one recored to original, Texas cooler, 6 blade California fan, oil cooler, etc. Nothing worked! Adding extra rows cured everything. I can run at 70 MPH in 90F + and the car never gets to hot. _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 20:11:04 2010 From: "Jerry Costanzo" To: Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 18:12:31 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glue I am not an expert but read something that said contact adhesives like these sprays will not hold long term and especially in the heat. The glues will affect the vinyl and eventually release. As mentioned earlier, you need a glue that is made for Vinyl. I used Contact Cement for Vinyl from McMasters. http://www.mcmaster.com/#glue/=71scyh Jerry _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 20:13:11 2010 From: To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 01:25:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?radiators?= i had my bj8 recored with a 3 row high efficiency rad from a local shop. used same top and bottom and it fit back in perfectly and the most if have seen is 200 sitting at a long light in 115 degrees. as soon as i start moving it comes back to 190(thermostat setting). keeping my fingers crossed but so far so good. hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 20:13:27 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Healey Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 09:29:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas - Judson EI ?? All - I just saw this on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4012.m656&item=230472740650&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D8601541363336937364#ht_500wt_1182 I was looking at the wiring diagram and I can't figure out what this "EI" black box does. Normally I think of Judson as/was a quality firm, but this seems like one of those 1960's tricks for "improving performance." Any of you older guys out there have a clue what this thing does? Just curious, I have no intention of buying this thing. The coil looks nice though! Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 20:14:54 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Healey Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 09:41:13 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas - Judson EI ?? After some thought, I wonder if this is the similar to Mike Eck's (of jaguarclock.com) who used to make this pretty nifty EI kit that was triggered by the points (effectively a system that reduced the voltage draw across the points to keep them from burning over time). Alan On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 9:29 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > I just saw this on Ebay: > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4012.m656&item=230472740650&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D8601541363336937364#ht_500wt_1182 > > I was looking at the wiring diagram and I can't figure out what this "EI" > black box does. Normally I think of Judson as/was a quality firm, but this > seems like one of those 1960's tricks for "improving performance." > > Any of you older guys out there have a clue what this thing does? > > Just curious, I have no intention of buying this thing. The coil looks > nice though! > > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 22:13:07 2010 From: john spaur To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 20:20:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Question while waiting for Concours Guidelines I have a new petrol tank and it is gloss black. What is the correct sheen for the tank? Gloss or something like BBQ Black? John Spaur '62 BT7 The 1998 guidelines did not say and the new ones are on order. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 22:14:15 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Alan Seigrist'" , "'Healey'" Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 23:38:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas - Judson EI ?? Take a look at this: http://vwjudsonregister.tripod.com/see-dee_instructions.htm John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 9:41 PM To: Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas - Judson EI ?? After some thought, I wonder if this is the similar to Mike Eck's (of jaguarclock.com) who used to make this pretty nifty EI kit that was triggered by the points (effectively a system that reduced the voltage draw across the points to keep them from burning over time). Alan On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 9:29 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > I just saw this on Ebay: > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4012.m656& item=230472740650&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D8601541363336937364#ht_500wt_1 182 > > I was looking at the wiring diagram and I can't figure out what this "EI" > black box does. Normally I think of Judson as/was a quality firm, but this > seems like one of those 1960's tricks for "improving performance." > > Any of you older guys out there have a clue what this thing does? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 22:47:19 2010 From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 21:04:34 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas - Judson EI ?? Alan: Click on this link: http://www.ihonlynorth.com/forums/basic-tech-questions/3983-what-hell-thing-see-doo-ignition.html then read the comments on the page. Click on the "Judson SeeDee" link from Robert Kenney to see original packaging and instruction sheet. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "Healey" Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 6:29 PM Subject: [Healeys] Lucas - Judson EI ?? > All - > > I just saw this on Ebay: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4012.m656&item=230472740650&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D8601541363336937364#ht_500wt_1182 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 23:13:33 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: john spaur Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 21:18:59 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Question while waiting for Concours Guidelines John, Gloss black is fine. Anyway, I personally will not have you pull up your Armacord in the boot to check for paint shine on the tank. Curt On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 8:20 PM, john spaur wrote: > I have a new petrol tank and it is gloss black. > > What is the correct sheen for the tank? > > Gloss or something like BBQ Black? > > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > > The 1998 guidelines did not say and the new ones are on order. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 23:14:05 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: John Sims Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 12:31:32 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas - Judson EI ?? So basically, the distributor becomes some sort of switching mechanism. I suppose the advantage is the points don't get burned and thus timing advance remains constant. Alan '52 A90 '53 BN1 '59 Jag Mk IX '64 BJ8 On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 11:38 AM, John Sims wrote: > Take a look at this: > > http://vwjudsonregister.tripod.com/see-dee_instructions.htm > > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 9:41 PM > To: Healey > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas - Judson EI ?? > > After some thought, I wonder if this is the similar to Mike Eck's (of > jaguarclock.com) who used to make this pretty nifty EI kit that was > triggered by the points (effectively a system that reduced the voltage draw > across the points to keep them from burning over time). > > Alan > > > On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 9:29 AM, Alan Seigrist > wrote: > > > All - > > > > I just saw this on Ebay: > > > > > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4012.m656& > > item=230472740650&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D8601541363336937364#ht_500wt_1 > 182 > > > > I was looking at the wiring diagram and I can't figure out what this "EI" > > black box does. Normally I think of Judson as/was a quality firm, but > this > > seems like one of those 1960's tricks for "improving performance." > > > > Any of you older guys out there have a clue what this thing does? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 02:39:35 2010 From: Oudesluys To: donham Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 09:53:52 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Radiator-BJ7 I f you still have your old radiator, have a new core put in with extra cooling capacity and a 20mm metric threaded hole for a thermostaat switch in a suitable place in the header tank. This for a possible fitment of an electric fan. There are plenty of varying thermoswitches to choose from in 20mm thread. Kees Oudesluijs NL donham wrote: > I need suggestions on vendors and types of a new radiator for my BJ7. Would > appreciate any help. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 07:18:10 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Alan Seigrist Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 05:53:23 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas - Judson EI ?? Not unlike the do-it-yourself transistor mod for SU fuel pumps, where the points just switch a transistor and the transistor switches the load to the coil? According to one of the forum posters, the 'transistor' wasn't even connected. If that's the case, then the device was likely a fraud. bs Alan Seigrist wrote: > So basically, the distributor becomes some sort of switching mechanism. I > suppose the advantage is the points don't get burned and thus timing advance > remains constant. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 07:19:32 2010 From: Jack Feldman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 07:59:08 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas - Judson EI ?? It is a capacitance discharge system. Judson made them as after market devices in several iterations. I had one built into a coil for my Checker Marathon. It failed after a few years. If I remember correctly, it simply used a condenser to build up the spark for an extra zap to the plugs. Bet not too many of you ever owned a Checker. Jack _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 08:03:33 2010 From: Jonas Payne To: donham Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 06:42:45 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Radiator-BJ7 Have the radiator re-cored with additional cores. I have done this on healey as well as Morgan and TR radiators running in Las Vegas NV with significant improvement in cooling. These re-cores are dead reliable in 115 degree ambient temp (125+++ on the road at intersections). Under no circumstances should you install an electric fan. The stock fan moves significantly more air at idle than any electric fan I have seen. Electric fans make nothing but noise. If you are moving away from a stock condition (which you would be with the electric fan), The flex a lite fan moves enough air at idle to make it difficult to shut the bonnet, doesn't add additional components and complexity to your car (why add electrical equipment to a british car!!!) Jonas Payne Director of Preconstruction Thor Construction PH: (702) 269-2007 Fax: (702) 269-7095 Cell: (702) 358-5084 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 12:54 AM To: donham Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Radiator-BJ7 I f you still have your old radiator, have a new core put in with extra cooling capacity and a 20mm metric threaded hole for a thermostaat switch in a suitable place in the header tank. This for a possible fitment of an electric fan. There are plenty of varying thermoswitches to choose from in 20mm thread. Kees Oudesluijs NL donham wrote: > I need suggestions on vendors and types of a new radiator for my BJ7. Would > appreciate any help. > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne@thorcon.net "This email and any attachments are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please contact the sender(s) at (702) 269-2007 and delete all copies from your system. It is not the intent of the sender to solicit any person or business. Please note that any opinions in this email are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Thor Construction, Incorporated. Finally, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The company accepts no liability for any damage or loss caused by any virus transmitted by this email." _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 09:21:41 2010 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 07:00:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Non-Healey=3A_Cool_Maserati_250F_video?= This is the father of Paul Martin, one of our LA area car buddies: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZxHzLnAQ5w -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 09:37:59 2010 From: I Erbs To: healey help Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 08:04:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] recore heater ? Is it possible to recore a heater? We finally got mine free of the bulkhead , and it appears to be leaking. Thanks -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 09:38:20 2010 From: I Erbs To: healey help Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 08:06:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heater core, never mind, I just found it in the archive never mind, I just found it in the archive -- I Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 11:31:00 2010 From: Oudesluys To: I Erbs Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 19:13:21 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] recore heater ? A heater is nothing more than a heat exchanger as is a radiator. A competent shop should be able to recore it. Kees Oudesluijs NL I Erbs wrote: > Is it possible to recore a heater? We finally got mine free of the bulkhead > , and it appears to be leaking. > > Thanks > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Geen virus gevonden in het binnenkomende-bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 9.0.819 / Virusdatabase: 271.1.1/2869 - datum van uitgifte: 05/12/10 08:26:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 11:47:14 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 13:22:53 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 312 In a message dated 5/11/10 9:15:50 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > I have a new petrol tank and it is gloss black. > > What is the correct sheen for the tank? > > Gloss or something like BBQ Black? > > John Spaur > '62 BT7 > Not really an issue in concours inspection. Gloss would be fine. I'm thinking (from memory) that the bottom would be painted body color where it is visible through the boot opening underneath the car, but you might want to confirm that with others on this list. Gary "I know everything, but just can't remember a lot of it anymore." _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 12:17:17 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Editorgary@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 10:54:11 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 312 Gary, Not only is my memory going too but so are my knees, so I WON'T be on the ground looking at the bottom of anyone's fuel tank :-) Curt On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 10:22 AM, wrote: > In a message dated 5/11/10 9:15:50 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net > writes: > > > > I have a new petrol tank and it is gloss black. > > > > What is the correct sheen for the tank? > > > > Gloss or something like BBQ Black? > > > > John Spaur > > '62 BT7 > > > > Not really an issue in concours inspection. Gloss would be fine. I'm > thinking (from memory) that the bottom would be painted body color where it > is > visible through the boot opening underneath the car, but you might want to > confirm that with others on this list. > Gary > "I know everything, but just can't remember a lot of it anymore." > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 13:17:21 2010 From: "Rich C" To: , Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 15:02:03 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 312 No part of the fuel tank was ever painted body colour. The simple thing to remember is that body colour was applied to the completed and fitted body shell and it's associated supports, fasteners, etc. and nothing more. Any basic satin through gloss black will be fine for the fuel tank. Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 1:22 PM To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 4, Issue 312 > In a message dated 5/11/10 9:15:50 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net > writes: > > >> I have a new petrol tank and it is gloss black. >> >> What is the correct sheen for the tank? >> >> Gloss or something like BBQ Black? >> >> John Spaur >> '62 BT7 >> > > Not really an issue in concours inspection. Gloss would be fine. I'm > thinking (from memory) that the bottom would be painted body color where > it is > visible through the boot opening underneath the car, but you might want to > confirm that with others on this list. > Gary > "I know everything, but just can't remember a lot of it anymore." > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 13:32:56 2010 From: Robert Blair To: 'Healey List' , Ron Ray Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 12:15:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Crankshaft pulley/damper Recommendation - buy a new large/heavy Aussie built one. Best. Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail@yahoo.com --- On Tue, 5/11/10, Ron Ray wrote: > From: Ron Ray > Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Crankshaft pulley/damper > To: "'Healey List'" > Date: Tuesday, May 11, 2010, 10:41 AM > Folks, > > A friend is need of a crankshaft pulley/damper for a BJ8. > His preference is to buy an original used one in good > condition rather than > buying the harmonic crank balancer offered by Moss. > Any comments on this > approach? > > If anyone has a used pulley/damper and is willing to sell > it, please contact > me off list. > > Thanks. > Ron > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 21:27:09 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Alan Seigrist Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 20:14:23 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas - Judson EI ?? Actually if you think about it, all points equipped systems use the points as a switch that turns the coil on and off. The difference is that in a traditional points system the points are switching a bunch of amperage (6 amps comes to mind, but my memory could be failing). Switching this high current caused points to pit and wear out. In an effort to make points systems more reliable, first came transistorized ignition systems which used the points at a very low voltage and amperage to switch a transistor, which then switched a power transistor to turn the coil on and off. With these systems point arcing is eliminated. Assuming the rubbing block stays lubed, the points will last many many times longer than the a traditional system. A capacitive discharge system or CD as they were known adds a big capacitor to the system to kick the power out of the coil up to either a higher voltage, or a longer spark duration. Still the points act as a switch to turn a transistor on and off. So what is this Judson unit? Beats the crap out of me. I do not believe it is a capacitive discharge system for a couple of reasons. 1. Look at the wiring schematic The wire from the coil is still going to the points The points are switching the current from the coil. Not like any transistorized system I ever saw. Not like any CD system I ever saw. 2. the name See-dee. Sounds like CD but note the spelling is different. Back in the day everyone called them CD systems and when written it was always CD. Never see-dee. I'm thinking that this is just one more item in a long line of snake oil that has been sold to car owners under the guise of more performance, better gas mileage, lower emissions. Rick On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 9:31 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > So basically, the distributor becomes some sort of switching mechanism. I > suppose the advantage is the points don't get burned and thus timing > advance > remains constant. > > Alan > > '52 A90 > '53 BN1 > '59 Jag Mk IX > '64 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 22:27:11 2010 From: F Ronald Rader To: Healey List Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 21:13:20 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Radiator-BJ7 i beleive a triple core will fit. do it! you will not be sorry. while the rad is out rebuild or replace the water pump. ron rader 1965 BJ8 On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 4:02 PM, wrote: > > I don't know about vendors, but I would highly recommend getting a double core > installed. The difference is fantastic and you can't tell the difference when > lookiing at it. > > Bill _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 03:10:37 2010 From: Jaap Aeckerlin To: Healey forum Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 11:02:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey : Facebook Listers, I receive invitations from various listers to join them on Facebook. Here in Europe the privacy element of Facebook (or better: the absence of privacy) is discussed heavily. I am invited to join Facebook by persons I have never heard of, let alone that I know them, and that is the reason that I will not accept any invitation to join Facebook. I don't want to offend anybody, I just have my own view on this matter. regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 06:26:46 2010 From: Frank Edwards To: , , Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 12:24:16 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Crankshaft pulley/damper I think buying a new one is a great idea, however some people (like myself) don't have unlimited funds to spend on a car. An original one is going to have hardened/cracked rubber in it. How could it not after 40+ years? I got the one on my BJ7 rebuilt by the damper doctor. Other than coming back with three small holes in it that he must use to align it. I see nothing wrong with it. For around $100+ I'm satisfied. Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2@hotmail.com > Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 12:15:13 -0700 > From: rnbmail@yahoo.com > To: healeys@autox.team.net; ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Crankshaft pulley/damper > > Recommendation - buy a new large/heavy Aussie built one. Best. > > Robert N. Blair Yellow 65BJ8 rnbmail@yahoo.com > > > > > --- On Tue, 5/11/10, Ron Ray wrote: > > > From: Ron Ray > > Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Crankshaft pulley/damper > > To: "'Healey List'" > > Date: Tuesday, May 11, 2010, 10:41 AM > > Folks, > > > > A friend is need of a crankshaft pulley/damper for a BJ8. > > His preference is to buy an original used one in good > > condition rather than > > buying the harmonic crank balancer offered by Moss. > > Any comments on this > > approach? > > > > If anyone has a used pulley/damper and is willing to sell > > it, please contact > > me off list. > > > > Thanks. > > Ron > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail@yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/logical2@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 07:11:30 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Jaap Aeckerlin , Healey forum Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 8:05:55 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non-Healey : Facebook Thanks Jaap---and, I agree. ---- Jaap Aeckerlin wrote: ============= Listers, I receive invitations from various listers to join them on Facebook. Here in Europe the privacy element of Facebook (or better: the absence of privacy) is discussed heavily. I am invited to join Facebook by persons I have never heard of, let alone that I know them, and that is the reason that I will not accept any invitation to join Facebook. I don't want to offend anybody, I just have my own view on this matter. regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 08:12:10 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Jaap Aeckerlin Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 07:12:16 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non-Healey : Facebook Jack, You're not missing anything. The more-or-less direct contact on this list is more valuable, IMO. Like Betty White said, FB is "a huge waste of time." Someday, others will figure that out. bs Jaap Aeckerlin wrote: > Listers, > I receive invitations from various listers to join them on Facebook. Here in > Europe the privacy element of Facebook (or better: the absence of privacy) > is discussed heavily. I am invited to join Facebook by persons I have never > heard of, let alone that I know them, and that is the reason that I will not > accept any invitation to join Facebook. I don't want to offend anybody, I > just have my own view on this matter. > regards, > Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands > 1964 BJ8 29432 > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 12:31:07 2010 From: "Steve Gerow" To: Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 11:04:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Speed calculator website Found this site to be useful for calculating speed from rpms, tires & gears: http://www.f-body.org/gears/ -- Steve Gerow Pasadena, CA, USA BN6 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 12:57:23 2010 From: "Guy R Day" To: "Steve Gerow" , Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 19:57:43 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speed calculator website It doesn't appear to cater for the rolling radius as opposed to the inflated radius of the tyre. The results may be in the ball park but could be around the outfield!. Guy R Day ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Gerow" To: Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 7:04 PM Subject: [Healeys] Speed calculator website > Found this site to be useful for calculating speed from rpms, tires & > gears: > > http://www.f-body.org/gears/ > > > > > > -- > > > > Steve Gerow > > Pasadena, CA, USA > > BN6 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/grday@btinternet.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 14:09:49 2010 From: Peter Dzwig To: Healey Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 21:09:29 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non-Healey : Facebook Jack - and listers, Facebook has been slapped down hard by the European Commission over this. see: Apparently it has already had to change its procedures in Canada - and some aspects of its way of working are actually illegal in Germany. Probably Facebook has gone topo far in search of revenues. Peter Dzwig Jaap Aeckerlin wrote: > Listers, > I receive invitations from various listers to join them on Facebook. Here in > Europe the privacy element of Facebook (or better: the absence of privacy) > is discussed heavily. I am invited to join Facebook by persons I have never > heard of, let alone that I know them, and that is the reason that I will not > accept any invitation to join Facebook. I don't want to offend anybody, I > just have my own view on this matter. > regards, > Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands > 1964 BJ8 29432 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig@summaventures.com > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 16:54:36 2010 From: S and T Miller To: Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 18:47:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AH factory paint process? Exactly how were the cars painted at the factory? Were the fenders/ shrouds painted on the inside prior to fitting and then the exterior (fitted body) painted? I would assume the boot, bonnet, splash pan (where applic.), and doors were painted separately. Did the process change during the years? Did they always use the red oxide color primer? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each dri