From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 01:05:39 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Kenny J Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 08:48:19 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump Try cleaning the points first by sliding a piece of thin rough cardboard or stiff paper through them. You can also use very fine emery paper 2000+ or flower paper. New pumps can be had on ebay or through the usual suppliers. For a good quality non-original replacement pump have a look at www.fuelflow.co.nz Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 01:23:19 2010 From: Oudesluys To: PG Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 08:58:35 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jag/weber ?? An excellent book on Webers and DellOrto's is "How yo build & power tune Weber & DellOrto DCOE & DHLA Carburetors"by Des Hammil. 30: advance at idle (I presume) is way to much and could cause the spitting and rough idling. Usually is around 5:, see the WSM for the proper setting. Once the jetting is correct it is not difficult to set them up, just tedious. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 01:37:14 2010 From: F Ronald Rader To: Healey List Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 00:11:29 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump ON MY NEW (TO ME) xk 150 i install two new pumps in parrell. i then wired a switch between the,m. if it fails i switch to the second pump. i know it is excessive but it is one less thing to worry about. i switch from one pump to the other when i think about it to keep them both functioning. ron rader BJ8 (gone) XK 150 FHC E type FHC nash Healey FHC On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 8:21 PM, Kenny J wrote: > > Car was running great then died. After several attempts to start it, I gave > the original square body fuel pump a good whack with my knockoff hammer. > Wow...It's a miracle...started to run great. I hear about guys installing a > second pump. Should I install an inline electric (positive ground) fuel pump? > If so, where can I get one? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 04:21:26 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: F Ronald Rader Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 20:00:06 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump I agree with Ron I just did it a slightly different way.... I have a high performance, double ended SU pump. One double ended pump. Connected to a 3 positio switch. No pumps One pump Both pumps Swap the running single end every time the rear is jacked up. Or when you remember. (as Ron said) Beware the double ended Su pump options. Some are designed to both be running. e.g. Some landrovers And before you fire the engine, a great diagnostic is hit the normal one pump switch. Then hit 2 pumps. Hear the second cut in. Then switch back to one... And off is antitheft!! Chris Sent from my iPhone On 01/09/2010, at 5:11 PM, F Ronald Rader wrote: > ON MY NEW (TO ME) xk 150 i install two new pumps in parrell. > i then wired a switch between the,m. if it fails i switch to the > second pump. > i know it is excessive but it is one less thing to worry about. > i switch from one pump to the other when i think about it to keep them > both functioning. > ron rader > BJ8 (gone) > XK 150 FHC > E type FHC > nash Healey FHC > > > On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 8:21 PM, Kenny J wrote: >> >> Car was running great then died. After several attempts to start >> it, I > gave >> the original square body fuel pump a good whack with my knockoff >> hammer. >> Wow...It's a miracle...started to run great. I hear about guys >> installing > a >> second pump. Should I install an inline electric (positive ground) >> fuel > pump? >> If so, where can I get one? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 05:20:05 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Greg Mandas" Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 06:51:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hinge Pin Question OK Greg its time to step away from the computer and get some sleep. I am trying to put a luggage rack on as I stated. ; ) Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Mandas" To: "Mark LaPierre" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:48 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hinge Pin Question >I took the hinges off the trunk to remove the lid . Why separate the >hinges ? > > Greg > 65BJ8 > > Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. > > > On Aug 31, 2010, at 9:50 PM, "Mark LaPierre" > wrote: > > From which side does one drive the trunk hinge pins out. Its hard to > tell by > sight. This is for > the installation of a luggage rack. > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 07:52:13 2010 From: Frederich Ficke To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 09:28:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey In anyone installed a set of Panasport knock off wheels on a 3000 Healey. I live on a rough highway and am looking for an improvement over the wire wheels cause my loosens spokes. Curious about any handling differences and wheel width since the panasports are wider. Also how large a tire can you run on these for height but not so wide to stick out far past fenders? Thanks _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 08:52:43 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Frederich Ficke Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 16:33:48 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey Check and compare the size (width, diameter) and the off set/ET for both rims. You do not state the size of the Panasports. Watch for sufficient clearance of the front wheels when at full lock. Check if there is enough room for the front wheel brake calipers. A good site for comparing tire sizes is: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 09:41:00 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Kenny J" , "Healeys Healeys" Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 11:16:22 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump Well Kenny, Thinks about it. Your original square body pump lasted 50 years. A fresh set of points and properly adjusted diaphragm and she's probably good for another 50 years. In this day of throw away components, this pump is from a "rebuild and carry on" era. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Kenny J" Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:21 PM To: "Healeys Healeys" Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump > Car was running great then died. After several attempts to start it, I > gave > the original square body fuel pump a good whack with my knockoff hammer. > Wow...It's a miracle...started to run great. I hear about guys installing > a > second pump. Should I install an inline electric (positive ground) fuel > pump? > If so, where can I get one? > > Kenny > 61 BT-7 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 11:08:21 2010 From: I Erbs To: Rich C Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 09:51:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump check out John Sim's site for the article I uploaded on how to rebuild a SU fuel pump. On Wed, Sep 1, 2010 at 8:16 AM, Rich C wrote: > Well Kenny, > > Thinks about it. Your original square body pump lasted 50 years. A fresh > set of points and properly adjusted diaphragm and she's probably good for > another 50 years. In this day of throw away components, this pump is from a > "rebuild and carry on" era. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Kenny J" > Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:21 PM > To: "Healeys Healeys" > Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump > > Car was running great then died. After several attempts to start it, I >> gave >> the original square body fuel pump a good whack with my knockoff hammer. >> Wow...It's a miracle...started to run great. I hear about guys installing >> a >> second pump. Should I install an inline electric (positive ground) fuel >> pump? >> If so, where can I get one? >> >> Kenny >> 61 BT-7 >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 12:52:45 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 14:31:45 EDT Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD's Just wanted to say a big thank you to all of you who ordered my DVD. Every order I received so far is now in the hands of the United States Postal Service and on its way to you. Please let me know if there are any problems with anything and I will do my best to get them resolved. Again, thank you all very much. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 14:52:38 2010 From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 16:32:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Hello Healeyphiles - I had a chance this morning to check the accuracy of my water temp gauge. Having gone through the agony of removing the gauge from the car the last time I checked it, I seriously re-thought that process. Although it made me very nervous to have an open flame anywhere near the engine bay, I was able to test the gauge in a pot of water at a rolling boil without removing the gauge (fire extinguisher handy!). I placed a wooden board spanning the fenders and sat a Coleman camp stove on top of that. After getting the water boiling in the kitchen, I transferred the pot to the camp stove for the actual test. The gauge went exactly to 212 stayed there for a 10-minute test without going any higher. A photo of the setup is available to anyone who wants it. So, since I live at sea level, the conclusion is that my gauge is exactly correct and any problem is elsewhere. For Dave Porter: I did the radiator drain test: First I back-flushed the radiator with the garden hose and captured the "first flow" water in a large bowl. There were only about five very small flakes of something visible. Then I plugged the lower hose connection and filled up the radiator with water. After removing the plug, I measured the draining time with a stopwatch. It took only 6 seconds for the radiator to drain completely. There is some damage to the radiator fins at the lower driver's side corner, caused by catching it on the wind deflector during removal of the radiator in the past. Because of the lower hose connection interfering with the frame cross-piece, the clearance here is very close. Relative to the undamaged area, I find it hard to believe this could in itself cause my overheating problem. However, I'll have the radiator checked out by a shop. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 15:21:02 2010 From: "Jim Ryan" To: "List Healey" Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 17:01:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Top Gear Hill Climb Challenge http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-DGMrLGnLg Thanks, -Jim )?) PO Box 361 81 Cranfield Street New Castle, NH 03854 603-436-3290 (Home) 603-801-5391 (Mobile) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 15:38:24 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'BJ8 Healeys'" , Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 15:18:39 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread So, refresh my memory (it gets worse with age) does the gauge never (under driving circumstances) go above 212, like it's stuck or it does go above like idling in traffic, but never dumps boiling coolant? Have you changed pulley diameters that would alter the rate of coolant circulation? dp frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 2:33 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Hello Healeyphiles - I had a chance this morning to check the accuracy of my water temp gauge. Having gone through the agony of removing the gauge from the car the last time I checked it, I seriously re-thought that process. Although it made me very nervous to have an open flame anywhere near the engine bay, I was able to test the gauge in a pot of water at a rolling boil without removing the gauge (fire extinguisher handy!). I placed a wooden board spanning the fenders and sat a Coleman camp stove on top of that. After getting the water boiling in the kitchen, I transferred the pot to the camp stove for the actual test. The gauge went exactly to 212 stayed there for a 10-minute test without going any higher. A photo of the setup is available to anyone who wants it. So, since I live at sea level, the conclusion is that my gauge is exactly correct and any problem is elsewhere. For Dave Porter: I did the radiator drain test: First I back-flushed the radiator with the garden hose and captured the "first flow" water in a large bowl. There were only about five very small flakes of something visible. Then I plugged the lower hose connection and filled up the radiator with water. After removing the plug, I measured the draining time with a stopwatch. It took only 6 seconds for the radiator to drain completely. There is some damage to the radiator fins at the lower driver's side corner, caused by catching it on the wind deflector during removal of the radiator in the past. Because of the lower hose connection interfering with the frame cross-piece, the clearance here is very close. Relative to the undamaged area, I find it hard to believe this could in itself cause my overheating problem. However, I'll have the radiator checked out by a shop. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 15:53:06 2010 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: healeys list Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 14:28:13 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smitty conversion That Smitty kit arrived via UPS today. I was pleasantly surprised to find a prop shaft in the box. That's one less thing I'll need to buy. It'll be a while before I can even work on my car. I've got quite a honeydo list ahead of me. Wilko San Diego On Aug 24, 2010, at 3:13 PM, I Erbs wrote: > Let me know. You beat me > > >> On Aug 24, 2010 1:37 PM, "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" >> wrote: >> >> I won that auction for the Smitty kit for 686.00! >> >> I think that's a good deal. We'll see if the deal goes well and it >> is delivered. >> >> Wilko >> San Diego _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 16:08:29 2010 From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 17:48:13 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread No, it never goes above 212, even idling in traffic. It didn't go above 212 while motoring for hours through the California desert at 118 deg. ambient. It doesn't always go to 212, either. If I drive at night or early in the morning, it's more like 190. If it's a long trip, the gauge will rise with the ambient temperature and be up to 212 by the afternoon on a hot day in summer. It never dumps boiling coolant. I changed to an alternator in March, 2002, but all the other pulleys are the same. Nobody else with an alternator has had this problem as far as I am aware. msb -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter [mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 5:19 PM To: 'BJ8 Healeys'; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread So, refresh my memory (it gets worse with age) does the gauge never (under driving circumstances) go above 212, like it's stuck or it does go above like idling in traffic, but never dumps boiling coolant? Have you changed pulley diameters that would alter the rate of coolant circulation? dp frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 18:51:08 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'BJ8 Healeys'" , Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 18:25:00 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread : RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Now I almost can unequivocally say that the gauge is faulty or at the very least sticks. I doubt that any Healey owner on this list hasn't shut the engine off at or near the 212 mark and not seen it continue to rise after shut down.. I would still recommend that you buy or borrow an infra red laser aim-able and compare the temp of the hoses, head, thermostat housing, top and bottom of the radiator, etc. with what we now know to be accurate reading (up to 212F)gauge when everything is up to temp and running. If it's not steaming over and the bottom of the radiator is oh, ten degrees cooler than the top then you can relax and be happy. Efficient running is at or above 190F. anyway. The gauges are typically designed for most cars to run roughly in the middle. I think for cars that remained in England that was true, at the time, given the more moderate speeds and ambient temps. Here in the States with multiple climate zones it's not unusual for a Healey to run on the right side of normal...but not truly too hot. dave frogeye@porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 18:52:23 2010 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: , Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 00:25:44 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 YOU ARE DETHPICABLE! But don't forget the pics... Bill Lawrence > From: timwarduk@aol.com > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 15:17:37 +0100 > Subject: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 > > Hi List > > Setting off on Thursday for the start of this year's EuroClassic. Starts In > Nurburg with a run up to Bonn and back via a town having a Wine festival > that day. Next day we drive the old Ring for a couple of laps if we want, > and then to Erfurt through lovely countryside. Then to Prague via Colditz > Castle and another circuit. Rest day in Prague to see the sights. After > which it is off to Ceske Budejovice, via the Brno circuit. After that we > drive to Kitzbuhel, but before leaving the Czech Republic we visit a small > town called Cesky Krumlov, which is a World Heritage town. Also visiting > the Abbey Admont and the Salzburgring Circuit. On to Merano in Italy via the > Grossglockner Pass and Lake Misurina. On the final day it is off to Lindau > on Lake Constance via the Stelvio Pass and Davos. > > > > How about that for a terrific route. > > > > Any Listers also doing the run I would be very happy to meet and share a > beer or two with. > > > > After I shall put a bunch of pictures on my web site, just to make you all > envious! > > > > Tim > > BJ8 '67 > > Frogeye '59 > > > > Tim Ward > > Warwick House > > 12 Mill Road > > Kislingbury > > NN7 4BB > > Tel: 07855 388 751 > > > > www.sixsigmaworks.co.uk > > www.Shuttermagic.co.uk > > www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 19:36:29 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=" To: "=?utf-8?B?RGF2ZSBQb3J0ZXI=?=" Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 18:20:53 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Continuing_the_thermostat_thread?= If it always runs on the right side of normal, would.nt that be the new normal??? Or did mean the correct side of normal.') Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Dave Porter" Date: Wed, Sep 1, 2010 5:25 pm Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread To: "'BJ8 Healeys'" , : RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Now I almost can unequivocally say that the gauge is faulty or at the very least sticks. I doubt that any Healey owner on this list hasn't shut the engine off at or near the 212 mark and not seen it continue to rise after shut down.. I would still recommend that you buy or borrow an infra red laser aim-able and compare the temp of the hoses, head, thermostat housing, top and bottom of the radiator, etc. with what we now know to be accurate reading (up to 212F)gauge when everything is up to temp and running. If it's not steaming over and the bottom of the radiator is oh, ten degrees cooler than the top then you can relax and be happy. Efficient running is at or above 190F. anyway. The gauges are typically designed for most cars to run roughly in the middle. I think for cars that remained in England that was true, at the time, given the more moderate speeds and ambient temps. Here in the States with multiple climate zones it's not unusual for a Healey to run on the right side of normal...but not truly too hot. dave frogeye@porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 19:53:12 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Dave Porter Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 18:36:05 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Not just Healeys. Any engine will have a temp spike after shut down as the coolant is no longer circulated, and all that built up heat is transmitted to the non-circulating coolant. This is called heat soak. It will be very evident on a big cast iron lump like a Healey engine. Less so on an aluminum block engine. Rick On Wed, Sep 1, 2010 at 5:25 PM, Dave Porter wrote: > : RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread > > Now I almost can unequivocally say that the gauge is faulty or at the very > least sticks. I doubt that any Healey owner on this list hasn't shut the > engine off at or near the 212 mark and not seen it continue to rise after > shut down.. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 20:07:01 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: , "'BJ8 Healeys'" , Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 19:39:22 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Both, Ira. frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _____ From: eyera3@gmail.com [mailto:eyera3@gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 7:21 PM To: Dave Porter; 'BJ8 Healeys'; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread If it always runs on the right side of normal, would.nt that be the new normal??? Or did mean the correct side of normal.') Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Dave Porter" Date: Wed, Sep 1, 2010 5:25 pm Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread To: "'BJ8 Healeys'" , : RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Now I almost can unequivocally say that the gauge is faulty or at the very least sticks. I doubt that any Healey owner on this list hasn't shut the engine off at or near the 212 mark and not seen it continue to rise after shut down.. I would still recommend that you buy or borrow an infra red laser aim-able and compare the temp of the hoses, head, thermostat housing, top and bottom of the radiator, etc. with what we now know to be accurate reading (up to 212F)gauge when everything is up to temp and running. If it's not steaming over and the bottom of the radiator is oh, ten degrees cooler than the top then you can relax and be happy. Efficient running is at or above 190F. anyway. The gauges are typically designed for most cars to run roughly in the middle. I think for cars that remained in England that was true, at the time, given the more moderate speeds and ambient temps. Here in the States with multiple climate zones it's not unusual for a Healey to run on the right side of normal...but not truly too hot. dave frogeye@porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 20:22:32 2010 From: "Quinn, Patrick" To: Richard Ewald , Dave Porter Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:59:52 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread G'day You can get around the problems caused by heat soak by installing an electric water pump, electric fan and sensor that continues to circulate the coolant until the required temperature is reached. As this would mean that the thermostat, mechanical water pump impeller and fan are removed you no longer have overheating problems at all. Have a look at http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps__EWP-content.aspx Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ewald Sent: Thursday, 2 September 2010 11:36 AM To: Dave Porter Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Not just Healeys. Any engine will have a temp spike after shut down as the coolant is no longer circulated, and all that built up heat is transmitted to the non-circulating coolant. This is called heat soak. It will be very evident on a big cast iron lump like a Healey engine. Less so on an aluminum block engine. Rick On Wed, Sep 1, 2010 at 5:25 PM, Dave Porter wrote: > : RE: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread > > Now I almost can unequivocally say that the gauge is faulty or at the > very least sticks. I doubt that any Healey owner on this list hasn't > shut the engine off at or near the 212 mark and not seen it continue > to rise after shut down.. ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 20:50:51 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Healeys Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 21:29:53 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 - early F.F. & NON PC !! Lemme see, Bill................... << *YOU ARE DETHPICABLE!* >> You DO have a problematic speech impediment but only with "S"s [generally known as a lisp]............ << *But don't forget the pics...* >> but not ALL the time ?!?!? Must admit, I have NEVER heard of that particular malady ?!? Do you know how RARE your 'type' is, percentage wise ??? Enquiring minds really need to know, please !!! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 23:23:06 2010 From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" To: "Healey Mail List" Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 22:04:12 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 - early F.F. & NON PC !! Who was the idiot that put the "s" in "lisp"? (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: "Healeys" Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 7:29 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] EuroClassic 2010 - early F.F. & NON PC !! > Lemme see, Bill................... > > << *YOU ARE DETHPICABLE!* >> > > You DO have a problematic speech impediment but only > with "S"s [generally known as a lisp]............ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 2 01:51:49 2010 From: Oudesluys To: "eyera3@gmail.com" Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:33:11 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread The coolant temperature depends largely on the thermostat you are using in a healthy cooling system and under normal driving conditions, i.e. low temp. stat a low reading, high temp. stat high reading. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 2 05:52:22 2010 From: jerry wall To: BJ8 Healeys Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 06:25:13 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread hi steve, consider having your radiator recored with a modern core. my recored radiator cured the overheating problems i had after adding a/c to my BN6 several years ago. cheers, jerry On Wed, Sep 1, 2010 at 3:32 PM, BJ8 Healeys wrote: > Hello Healeyphiles - > > I had a chance this morning to check the accuracy of my water temp gauge. > Having gone through the agony of removing the gauge from the car the last > time I checked it, I seriously re-thought that process. Although it made > me > very nervous to have an open flame anywhere near the engine bay, I was able > to test the gauge in a pot of water at a rolling boil without removing the > gauge (fire extinguisher handy!). I placed a wooden board spanning the > fenders and sat a Coleman camp stove on top of that. After getting the > water boiling in the kitchen, I transferred the pot to the camp stove for > the actual test. The gauge went exactly to 212 stayed there for a > 10-minute test without going any higher. A photo of the setup is available > to anyone who wants it. > So, since I live at sea level, the conclusion is that my gauge is exactly > correct and any problem is elsewhere. > > For Dave Porter: I did the radiator drain test: First I back-flushed the > radiator with the garden hose and captured the "first flow" water in a > large > bowl. There were only about five very small flakes of something visible. > Then I plugged the lower hose connection and filled up the radiator with > water. After removing the plug, I measured the draining time with a > stopwatch. It took only 6 seconds for the radiator to drain completely. > There is some damage to the radiator fins at the lower driver's side > corner, > caused by catching it on the wind deflector during removal of the radiator > in the past. Because of the lower hose connection interfering with the > frame cross-piece, the clearance here is very close. Relative to the > undamaged area, I find it hard to believe this could in itself cause my > overheating problem. However, I'll have the radiator checked out by a > shop. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 2 08:06:35 2010 From: Oudesluys To: BJ8 Healeys Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 15:38:56 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Steve, The temperature gauge will never go beyond 212:F as that is the temperature of boiling water, however long you will heat it, it will stay at 212:F at standard atmospheric pressure at sea level. It cannot rise any higher. Only when pressurized the water will go to a higher boiling point, see: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-point-water-d_926.html So your gauge registered perfectly correct. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 2 21:09:44 2010 From: richard mayor To: , Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 02:44:40 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch question I have a question about the "specially treated hardened interior surface" of the slave cylinder. Is there a source out there that explains this in greater detail? I always assumed that the aluminum was the same alloy/quality/hardness throughout. Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks, Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:14:50 +0800 > From: healey.nut@gmail.com > To: CAWS52803@aol.com > CC: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch question > > Rudy - > > You can't hone the slave cylinder - it is aluminum with a specially treated > hardened interior surface. If you hone it, it will only last for a few > months. > > If the interior surface is worn, the only solution is either to get a new > slave cylinder or have your old one sleeved with a Stainless Steel insert. > > Did you try bleeding the slave cylinder? > > I find just getting a new slave cylinder and putting it on is the best and > easiest way to go. And not too expensive. > > Alan > > On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 10:29 AM, wrote: > > > I have no clutch! The pedal goes to the metal! > > If I pump it 5 - 10 times, I might be able to shift it into gear. I'm not > > losing any fluid. Oh yes, it's a BN4 with separate clutch & brake fluid > > cylinders. > > I am going to remove, hone and replace the inner seals. > > My question - Is this something I should undertake myself? I do have the > > parts list and owners manuals for a guide. > > Any suggestions or help? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 2 22:24:23 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: richard mayor Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 21:05:24 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch question Good question. I have always assumed the bores were treated, since they have a slick, shiny surface which isn't characteristic of untreated aluminum, which is usually porous and dull in appearance. A quick question to Mr. Google returned: http://www.ehow.com/how_5940980_rebuild-wheel-cylinder.html "Hone the inside of the wheel cylinder with a wheel cylinder hone, attached to an electric drill, if the cylinder is made of cast iron or steel. Aluminum wheel cylinders should never be honed. Aluminum wheel cylinders have a hard, protective, anodized surface inside to prevent corrosion. Honing will remove this surface and cause excessive corrosion and wear. Instead, clean the inside of the aluminum cylinder with soapy water and a green scotch-brite pad to remove debris that collects in the cylinder bore." I'm surprised the treatment is anodizing, because I always thought of that as a superficial treatment--not a hardening process--but apparently it does harden the surface. bs richard mayor wrote: > I have a question about the "specially treated hardened interior surface" of > the slave cylinder. Is there a source out there that explains this in greater > detail? I always assumed that the aluminum was the same alloy/quality/hardness > throughout. Inquiring minds want to know. > Thanks, > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 2 23:54:07 2010 From: john spaur To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 22:33:44 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch question I have honed many healey hydraulic cylinders only to find dirty brake fluid shortly thereafter damaged piston seals. Caused, no doubt, by honing the cylinders! No more honing! John At 09:05 PM 9/2/2010 -0700, you wrote: >Good question. > >I have always assumed the bores were treated, since they have a >slick, shiny surface which isn't characteristic of untreated >aluminum, which is usually porous and dull in appearance. >A quick question to Mr. Google returned: > >http://www.ehow.com/how_5940980_rebuild-wheel-cylinder.html > >.... Aluminum wheel cylinders should never be honed. Aluminum wheel >cylinders have a hard, protective, anodized surface inside to >prevent corrosion. Honing will remove this surface..... _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 02:08:56 2010 From: Oudesluys To: richard mayor Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 09:43:26 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch question Anodizing is a chemical oxidation treatment of metal forming a hard, porous layer of oxide of about 10-255m on the surface. It is mainly used for aluminium, titanium to increase wearing and corrosion properties. The porous layer can be sealed to improve corrosion resistance. During the proces you can also add a color. Aluminium is anodized using sulphuric acid. If you clean and lightly polish the bores you will not damage the anodized surface. If you hone the bores of aluminium brake cylinders you may remove the hard layer. This is not always a problem but you need to polish the bores afterwards, although they will not last as long as new cylinders. Rebuild them using special brake/rubber lubricant. This will reduce corrosion and wear. However considering the effort it takes and the prices of the rebuild kits it is more efficient to get new cylinders altogether. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 02:25:01 2010 From: Jaap Aeckerlin To: richard mayor , Healey forum Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 09:59:36 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch question Richard, the process is called hard anodising. One uses either sulphuric acid or chromic acid and applies a direct current with the object as anode. An oxide layer is formed - with hard anodising the thickness is between 25 and 50 micron. A red blood cell is approx. 8 micron in diameter, a strand of human hair approx 100 micron. Therefore you better don't hone an anodised cylinder! Regards, Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 2010/9/3 richard mayor > I have a question about the "specially treated hardened interior surface" > of > the slave cylinder. Is there a source out there that explains this in > greater > detail? I always assumed that the aluminum was the same > alloy/quality/hardness > throughout. Inquiring minds want to know. > Thanks, > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon > > > > > > Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:14:50 +0800 > > From: healey.nut@gmail.com > > To: CAWS52803@aol.com > > CC: healeys@autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch question > > > > Rudy - > > > > You can't hone the slave cylinder - it is aluminum with a specially > treated > > hardened interior surface. If you hone it, it will only last for a few > > months. > > > > If the interior surface is worn, the only solution is either to get a new > > slave cylinder or have your old one sleeved with a Stainless Steel > insert. > > > > Did you try bleeding the slave cylinder? > > > > I find just getting a new slave cylinder and putting it on is the best > and > > easiest way to go. And not too expensive. > > > > Alan > > > > On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 10:29 AM, wrote: > > > > > I have no clutch! The pedal goes to the metal! > > > If I pump it 5 - 10 times, I might be able to shift it into gear. I'm > not > > > losing any fluid. Oh yes, it's a BN4 with separate clutch & brake > fluid > > > cylinders. > > > I am going to remove, hone and replace the inner seals. > > > My question - Is this something I should undertake myself? I do have > the > > > parts list and owners manuals for a guide. > > > Any suggestions or help? > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/j.aeckerlin@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 02:39:28 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: john spaur Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:17:44 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch question Same here... and a honed cylinder will last about 3 months... On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 1:33 PM, john spaur wrote: > I have honed many healey hydraulic cylinders only to find dirty brake fluid > shortly thereafter damaged piston seals. Caused, no doubt, by honing the > cylinders! No more honing! > > John > > > At 09:05 PM 9/2/2010 -0700, you wrote: > >> Good question. >> >> I have always assumed the bores were treated, since they have a slick, >> shiny surface which isn't characteristic of untreated aluminum, which is >> usually porous and dull in appearance. >> A quick question to Mr. Google returned: >> >> http://www.ehow.com/how_5940980_rebuild-wheel-cylinder.html >> >> .... Aluminum wheel cylinders should never be honed. Aluminum wheel >> cylinders have a hard, protective, anodized surface inside to prevent >> corrosion. Honing will remove this surface..... >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 03:16:35 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 03:52:21 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch question Just a FWIW, FYI, YMMV, yada-yada, & blah-blah: <> Kees hit the nail on the head !! One [1] of two [2] make it so, business wise even if you are working in cars as a "side job". Either one goes FAST and generally makes an error of one kind or another so that the cylinder does work or doesn't work properly [leaks being 1st thing to go bad] OR you go SO slow that one actually has SO much time in the cylinder that it has been paid for and now you can't CHARGE for your TIME. ergo, Kees being correct !! Also, the same 'theory' applies to a LOT of other jobs/parts on any car. Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 04:54:36 2010 From: Bob Haskell To: richard mayor Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 06:26:19 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator / Overheating Listers, Anyone know what the depth of the water jacket around the cylinders (3000 block) is suppose to be? I measured about 5 1/4 inches from the top of the block down to something solid. I'm sure that there's some variation in the castings, but if it's suppose to be 7 inches then I know I've got a good bit of crud in there. Bob Haskell 3000 MkI registrar richard mayor wrote: > Ray, Strippers are the metal cleaning businesses that acid dip (or whatever > they call it now) car bodies and other components to remove all rust and > corrosion. Any good engine builder knows where to have the proper cleaning > done. The best engine rebuilders have the equipment on site to do the job. The > problem is that a lot of so called "engine rebuilders" do a quick down and > dirty rebuild and never have the block properly cleaned ( or stripped). BTW, > there is no damage done to the engine block or cylinder head in this process. > > Richard Mayor > BN7L-466 Vintage Racer > Portland, Oregon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 10:40:08 2010 From: raymead@comcast.net To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:11:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Tachometer? or tachometer cable? hi all sometimes my tach, at idle, reads around 800rpm and other times it reads around 2,000rpm (so, once you accelerate, at times it reads the correct rpms, and at other times it seems to read about 2,000rpms too high).............. is it more likely to be the tach itself, or the cable???B B B any quick tests that your basic MECHANICAL IDIOT can do to eliminate one or the other? tks, ray (the mechanical idiot himself)!!!!!!!!!!!!!! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 14:25:14 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: raymead@comcast.net Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 20:07:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tachometer? or tachometer cable? Probably in the tach itself. Usually, a problem in the cable manifests as a bouncy needle. Pull out the cable and sheath, clean both thoroughly, lightly lubricate the cable--some like grease, Ed likes graphite, some like nothing, I like silicone oil--and replace. If no change it's almost certainly in the tach. The cable turns a magnet, which couples to a metal cup/disk which rotates the needle. Anything sticks or hangs up the needle will misbehave. You could have had grease or oil work its way up the cable into the delicate mechanism and harden and/or mix with dust and turn to a low-grade glue. bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA hi all sometimes my tach, at idle, reads around 800rpm and other times it reads around 2,000rpm (so, once you accelerate, at times it reads the correct rpms, and at other times it seems to read about 2,000rpms too high).............. is it more likely to be the tach itself, or the cable???B B B any quick tests that your basic MECHANICAL IDIOT can do to eliminate one or the other? tks, ray (the mechanical idiot himself)!!!!!!!!!!!!!! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 18:21:24 2010 From: "Ghess4" To: Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:56:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared For all of you that are mechanically inclined and dealing with frozen fasteners: Penetrating Oils Compared Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. Penetrating oil .......Average load None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 18:37:54 2010 From: richard mayor To: , healeys Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 00:11:48 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey Panasport does not make knock-off wheels. They make bolt on wheels. I have light weight racing Panasports on my BN7 racer. The wheels are 6"wide. You can safely run 185x15 - 70 series radials or 5.50 x 15 bias ply tires. The Panasports on my race car are lighter than 60 spoke wire wheels, but they are not DOT approved for highway use. You can buy Panasports approved for highway use in sizes 15 X 5.5" or 15 x 6", maybe even narrower - but why would you want to. Make sure you know the correct offset (back space) before you order. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 09:28:39 -0400 > From: jagwarman@gmail.com > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey > > In anyone installed a set of Panasport knock off wheels on a 3000 Healey. I > live on a rough highway and am looking for an improvement over the wire > wheels cause my loosens spokes. Curious about any handling differences and > wheel width since the panasports are wider. Also how large a tire can you > run on these for height but not so wide to stick out far past fenders? > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 18:52:35 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 19:34:10 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tachometer? or tachometer cable? << Pull out the cable and sheath, clean both thoroughly, lightly lubricate the cable--some like grease, Ed likes graphite, some like nothing, I like silicone oil--and replace. >> TWO [2] reasons: 1st] Locksmith/Speedo Shop Owner said so 45+ years ago. 2nd] EVERYTHING you mentioned Bob, COLLECTS dirt !! ...........NOT a "friend" of the core !! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 20:52:15 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Ghess4 Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 19:28:54 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared I have seen this list over and over again. Based on my years of experience I have some serious doubts about the validity of this test. WD-40 cut the effort in half? Not in my experience. WD-40 is a lubricant not a rust buster, and not a very good one that. WD-40 is almost as good at cutting rust as PB Blaster? Again don't make me laugh. Liquid wrench? Never had that stuff work at all. Worthless IMHO The best stuff I have ever used is Maltby Rust dissolving penetrant. This stuff would actually dissolve the rust, and free up the parts. I have not been able to find it for years. We use PB Blaster at work for various stuck and rusted fasteners. Works great. I have not tried the acetone/ATF mix, I will have to give that a shot sometime. Rick On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 4:56 PM, Ghess4 wrote: > For all of you that are mechanically inclined and dealing with frozen > fasteners: > > Penetrating Oils Compared > > Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break > out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective > test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque > required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. > > Penetrating oil .......Average load > None ..................... 516 pounds > WD-40 .................... 238 pounds > PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds > Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds > Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds > ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 21:11:06 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: Frederich Ficke Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 12:53:21 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey I don't know anything about Panasport wheels. Many of us run the "minilite" replica wheels organised by Frank Karl in New Zealand. He used to ring all the major british car distributors, get orders, and run a batch once a year, manufactured by Aunger in NZ. They are based in an original 15 x 6 minilite, so they look "right". Over the years he has made them as bolt on, centre lock splined hub, and in both magnesium and aluminium. The magnesium bolt on ones are incredibly light and ate for racing only. I have the centre lock splined ones, because I'd replaced the splines etc and didn't want to redo everything to convert to bolt ons. Compromise. With the centrelock splined hubs, I had a plate about 8mm or 10mm wide made to sandwich & locate between the splined adaptor and alloy centre in order to move the wheel back inside the front bodywork and therefore adjust the offset. The offset is perfect in the rear. Most 6 in rims available stick out of the front guards. Negative camber and a correcly made sanwich spacer can ensure the top of the wheel is inside the guard when running a 195 -205 width tyre. If that's too much hassle, there are 5.5 in minilite replica centre lock splined wheels available from a number of UK suppliers. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 01/09/2010, at 11:28 PM, Frederich Ficke wrote: > In anyone installed a set of Panasport knock off wheels on a 3000 > Healey. I > live on a rough highway and am looking for an improvement over the > wire > wheels cause my loosens spokes. Curious about any handling > differences and > wheel width since the panasports are wider. Also how large a tire > can you > run on these for height but not so wide to stick out far past fenders? > Thanks > _ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 21:35:43 2010 From: Greg Mandas To: Ghess4 , Richard Ewald Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 20:22:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared This them? http://maltbycompany.com/8401.html --- On Fri, 9/3/10, Richard Ewald wrote: > From: Richard Ewald > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared > To: "Ghess4" > Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Friday, September 3, 2010, 10:28 PM > I have seen this list over and over > again. Based on my years of > experience I have some serious doubts about the validity of > this test. > WD-40 cut the effort in half? Not in my > experience. WD-40 is a > lubricant not a rust buster, and not a very good one that. > WD-40 is almost as good at cutting rust as PB > Blaster? Again don't > make me laugh. > Liquid wrench? Never had that stuff work at > all. Worthless IMHO > The best stuff I have ever used is Maltby Rust dissolving > penetrant. > This stuff would actually dissolve the rust, and free up > the parts. I > have not been able to find it for years. We use PB > Blaster at work > for various stuck and rusted fasteners. Works great. > I have not tried the acetone/ATF mix, I will have to give > that a shot sometime. > Rick > > On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 4:56 PM, Ghess4 > wrote: > > For all of you that are mechanically inclined and > dealing with frozen > > fasteners: > > > > Penetrating Oils Compared > > > > Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested > penetrates for break > > out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They > arranged a subjective > > test of all the popular penetrates with the control > being the torque > > required to remove the nut from a "scientifically > rusted" environment. > > > > Penetrating oil .......Average load > > None ..................... 516 pounds > > WD-40 .................... 238 pounds > > PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds > > Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds > > Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds > > ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 21:36:35 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Chris Dimmock Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 03:24:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey Chris, re: " ... I had a plate about 8mm or 10mm wide made to sandwich & locate between the splined adaptor and alloy centre in order to move the wheel back inside the front bodywork and therefore adjust the offset..." I can't for the life of me visualize how this works ... got a diagram by any chance? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 22:06:36 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Greg Mandas Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 20:49:24 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared That is the stuff, but none of my industrial suppliers carry it any longer. Why I don't know. This stuff is awesome. Spray it on, let it set a bit, spray some more and a puddle of dissolved rust will drip off the fastener. R On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 8:22 PM, Greg Mandas wrote: > This them? > > http://maltbycompany.com/8401.html > > --- On Fri, 9/3/10, Richard Ewald wrote: > >> From: Richard Ewald >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared >> To: "Ghess4" >> Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net >> Date: Friday, September 3, 2010, 10:28 PM >> I have seen this list over and over >> again. Based on my years of >> experience I have some serious doubts about the validity of >> this test. >> WD-40 cut the effort in half? Not in my >> experience. WD-40 is a >> lubricant not a rust buster, and not a very good one that. >> WD-40 is almost as good at cutting rust as PB >> Blaster? Again don't >> make me laugh. >> Liquid wrench? Never had that stuff work at >> all. Worthless IMHO >> The best stuff I have ever used is Maltby Rust dissolving >> penetrant. >> This stuff would actually dissolve the rust, and free up >> the parts. I >> have not been able to find it for years. We use PB >> Blaster at work >> for various stuck and rusted fasteners. Works great. >> I have not tried the acetone/ATF mix, I will have to give >> that a shot sometime. >> Rick >> >> On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 4:56 PM, Ghess4 >> wrote: >> > For all of you that are mechanically inclined and >> dealing with frozen >> > fasteners: >> > >> > Penetrating Oils Compared >> > >> > Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested >> penetrates for break >> > out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They >> arranged a subjective >> > test of all the popular penetrates with the control >> being the torque >> > required to remove the nut from a "scientifically >> rusted" environment. >> > >> > Penetrating oil .......Average load >> > None ..................... 516 pounds >> > WD-40 .................... 238 pounds >> > PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds >> > Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds >> > Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds >> > ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 22:21:27 2010 From: "Udo Putzke" To: "'Bob Spidell'" , "'Chris Dimmock'" Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 20:54:24 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey Like this. Between the chrome spline adapter and the Wheel. Udo PUTZKES-FAHRSPASS -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 8:24 PM To: Chris Dimmock Cc: Frederich Ficke; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey Chris, re: " ... I had a plate about 8mm or 10mm wide made to sandwich & locate between the splined adaptor and alloy centre in order to move the wheel back inside the front bodywork and therefore adjust the offset..." I can't for the life of me visualize how this works ... got a diagram by any chance? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mrjaja@cox.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 16x7 wheels with Mustang and Nascar15.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of front positioning08.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Tire OE & new12.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 16x7 wheels with Mustang and Nascar12.JPG] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 22:36:37 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: Bob Spidell Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 14:11:01 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey Hi Bob I don't have a drawing, but I'll try to explain... I'll capitalize the words inside and outside because I think that's where the confusion starts. Ok. Think of a bolt on rear wheel. You have a one piece wheel, and a hub it bolts onto. 2 things. Adding a spacer on the hub - which mates to the INSIdE of the wheel - will obviously move the wheel out. But with a centrelock wheel, we have 3 parts. The wheel has a steel splined hub, and an alloy "wheel" which are bolted together. Then it slides onto the splined hub. Unlike any one piece wheel, the minilite is a steel splined centre "hub" which bolts onto the OUTSIDE of the alloy rim centre (not the inside). The splined hub slides into the rim, from outside the rim, so the mating faces to assemble the wheel are on the OUTSIDE of the rim centre. Ie you have 3 pieces - your stub axle/ splined adaptor on your car - a splined steel hub centre - and a alloy rim. A spacer between the steel minilite wheel hub, and the OUTSIDE of the alloy wheel centre, moves the rim inwards, ie back inside the guard. Youre right Bob, a picture would help! I'll see what I can do.... Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 04/09/2010, at 1:24 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Chris, > > re: "... I had a plate about 8mm or 10mm wide > made to sandwich & locate between the splined adaptor and alloy centre > in order to move the wheel back inside the front bodywork and > therefore adjust the offset..." > > > I can't for the life of me visualize how this works ... got a > diagram by any chance? > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 22:39:47 2010 From: Oudesluys To: raymead@comcast.net Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 06:18:19 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tachometer? or tachometer cable? Tachometer needs a clean/rebuild. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 22:40:19 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: Udo Putzke Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 14:19:36 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey Bob, look very closely at Udos last pic. Magnify it. There is a spacer between the outside of the rim and the chromed steel Hub. The spacer has a proud locating lip, just like mine. Thanks Udo Chris Sent from my iPhone On 04/09/2010, at 1:54 PM, "Udo Putzke" wrote: > Like this. Between the chrome spline adapter and the Wheel. > > Udo PUTZKES-FAHRSPASS > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- > bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 8:24 PM > To: Chris Dimmock > Cc: Frederich Ficke; healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey > > Chris, > > re: " ... I had a plate about 8mm or 10mm wide > made to sandwich & locate between the splined adaptor and alloy centre > in order to move the wheel back inside the front bodywork and > therefore adjust the offset..." > > > I can't for the life of me visualize how this works ... got a > diagram by any > chance? > > Bob _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 04:07:43 2010 From: Derek Job To: Forum Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 11:52:58 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] ahead4healseys carpet Hi all Has anybody out there bought any Karvel carpet sets from ahead4healeys. I'm quite interested in a blue set but would be interested to have feedback on the product. Plus the blue looks a little light coloured in the image sample. cheers Derek www.healeysix.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 06:42:34 2010 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?= To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 05:14:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Web pages Which are the best 100-4 Web pages ?? Thanks, Jose Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: "ATIGHTPROD@aol.com" To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Wed, September 1, 2010 1:31:45 PM Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD's Just wanted to say a big thank you to all of you who ordered my DVD. Every order I received so far is now in the hands of the United States Postal Service and on its way to you. Please let me know if there are any problems with anything and I will do my best to get them resolved. Again, thank you all very much. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 07:29:08 2010 From: Jean Caron To: , Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 13:01:29 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Web pages Jose: One of my favourite is the one of Didier Mongin from France, www.austin-healey.fr Jean > Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 05:14:19 -0700 > From: jvvmusme@yahoo.com > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Web pages > > Which are the best 100-4 Web pages ?? > > Thanks, > > Jose > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 > Skype: jovivago > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > > > > > ________________________________ > From: > "ATIGHTPROD@aol.com" > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Sent: > Wed, September 1, 2010 1:31:45 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD's > > Just > wanted to say a big thank you to all of you who ordered my DVD. Every > order > I received so far is now in the hands of the United States Postal > Service > and on its way to you. Please let me know if there are any problems > with > anything and I will do my best to get them resolved. Again, thank you > all > very much. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: > http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme@yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho tmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 08:00:26 2010 From: To: Healeys Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 09:37:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New Zealand I hope all of the New Zealand contingent of the list are well and undamaged following the earth quake. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 08:18:41 2010 From: Richard Dryman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 06:47:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Return to Bonneville DVD Re'cd DVD today: EXTREMELY professional; 16:9 format--fills screen, Dolby Audio; basically, I am impressed. Also a bonus DVD: Dinner presentation & questions and answers. You will be pleased if you ordered this. R _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 09:05:18 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Chris Dimmock Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 14:26:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Panasport wheels for Healey Aha moment. This moves the wheel inward on the steel hub. Presumably, you need longer bolts/studs to attach the hub to the wheel? I got confused because the wire wheels I'm familiar with are 'one piece' (well, 74 pieces if you count the rim, the hub and all the spokes), and the inside of the wheel hub butts up against the base of the axle hub, so there's no way to move the wheel inward (you could probably tune the spokes to bring the wheel in, but there's not much clearance with the drums and calipers as it is). Obviously, there's still clearance between the wheel spokes and the drums or rotors? Thanks to Chris and Udo for taking the time and effort to explain--and illustrate--this. What a fantastic List. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Hi Bob I don't have a drawing, but I'll try to explain... I'll capitalize the words inside and outside because I think that's where the confusion starts. Ok. Think of a bolt on rear wheel. You have a one piece wheel, and a hub it bolts onto. 2 things. Adding a spacer on the hub - which mates to the INSIdE of the wheel - will obviously move the wheel out. But with a centrelock wheel, we have 3 parts. The wheel has a steel splined hub, and an alloy "wheel" which are bolted together. Then it slides onto the splined hub. Unlike any one piece wheel, the minilite is a steel splined centre "hub" which bolts onto the OUTSIDE of the alloy rim centre (not the inside). The splined hub slides into the rim, from outside the rim, so the mating faces to assemble the wheel are on the OUTSIDE of the rim centre. Ie you have 3 pieces - your stub axle/ splined adaptor on your car - a splined steel hub centre - and a alloy rim. A spacer between the steel minilite wheel hub, and the OUTSIDE of the alloy wheel centre, moves the rim inwards, ie back inside the guard. Youre right Bob, a picture would help! I'll see what I can do.... Best Chris _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 09:24:57 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: ggilliam@usol.com Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 22:47:11 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Zealand Apparently some pictures of the carnage in an apartment has already made it to the internet, from only 20km from the epicenter. We can only hope their civilization can rebuild: http://i.imgur.com/9Ulk3.jpg Alan On Sat, Sep 4, 2010 at 9:37 PM, wrote: > > I hope all of the New Zealand contingent of the list are well and > undamaged following the earth quake. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 09:46:52 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: =?utf-8?Q?Jos=C3=A9_Vicente_Vargas?= Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 01:14:17 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Web pages Have a look at Larry Varley's site http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ Chris Sent from my iPhone On 04/09/2010, at 10:14 PM, JosC) Vicente Vargas wrote: > Which are the best 100-4 Web pages ?? > > Thanks, > > Jose > Josi Vicente Vargas > Musmi > > > Tel. (571) 321 3740 > Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 > Skype: jovivago > www.musme.net > > > Bogota, Colombia > > > > > ________________________________ > From: > "ATIGHTPROD@aol.com" > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Sent: > Wed, September 1, 2010 1:31:45 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Bonneville DVD's > > Just > wanted to say a big thank you to all of you who ordered my DVD. Every > order > I received so far is now in the hands of the United States Postal > Service > and on its way to you. Please let me know if there are any problems > with > anything and I will do my best to get them resolved. Again, thank you > all > very much. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 #598 > _________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 12:13:17 2010 From: Magnus Karlsson To: Healey Lista Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 19:53:50 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] ahead4healseys carpet Although not an exact reproduction of the original Karvel, it's definitely the best I have seen currently on the market. Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com 4 sep 2010 kl. 11:52 skrev Derek Job : > Hi all > > Has anybody out there bought any Karvel carpet sets from ahead4healeys. > > I'm quite interested in a blue set but would be interested to have feedback > on the product. Plus the blue looks a little light coloured in the image > sample. > > cheers > > > Derek > www.healeysix.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson@bornet.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 15:47:49 2010 From: Roland Wilhelmy To: Chris Dimmock Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 14:34:01 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Web pages I'll second that. Larry Varley's site is full of Healey Hundred data and history unavailable to me anywhere else. -Roland BN1 #724 On Sun, 5 Sep 2010 01:14:17 +1000, you wrote: ::Have a look at Larry Varley's site :: ::http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ :: ::Chris _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 18:18:14 2010 From: Richard Dryman To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 16:59:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Richard Dryman To: Richard Ewald ; Greg Mandas Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Sat, September 4, 2010 7:05:52 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared If you need it, just order it (this just recd after query): "We sell by the case only at $48 plus UPS shipping cost. We do not pad the shipping cost. The case consists of 12- 13 oz cans with the handy extension tubes. I will be back in the office Tuesday afternoon. Further information can be found at: www.maltbycompany.com . Thank You, Dorothy" _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 19:45:49 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 01:27:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump Listers, I'm most familiar with BJ8 fuel pumps--being able to assemble at least two working units out of a large collection of parts at any given time--but I'm having trouble with a BN2 fuel pump. The BJ8 pumps have a valve body with two thin reed-type valves--one on the suction side and one on the pressure side (they are set up differently, of course, but I believe the valves are the same). Anyway, my BJ8 pumps a few times when energized and settles into a steady rhythm of a pump every 5-6 seconds with the engine not running. With the engine running, the pump speeds up according to engine speed; a pump every 2-3 seconds at idle, a couple pumps a second during acceleration, and a steady pump every 1-2 seconds at cruise. Very logical. Our BN2's pump--a brand new SU electronic--is a different design. There is only one valve--a brass disk, basically--on the output side and nothing on the suction/inlet side (it almost seems like it's supposed to siphon as much as pump). This pump behaves erratically--it'll pump rapidly when the key comes on, and seems to settle down but then starts pumping erratically. It pumps almost continuously with the engine running--the engine runs fine, BTW--but it's still an erratic continuous. Is this typical for the BN2 pump? It appears this design is way inferior to the BJ8 pump design--in spite of the lovely brass machine work inside--and I'm glad to see SU improved the design (and probably make it cheaper, to boot), but it doesn't seem right to me. I haven't ruled out air leaks, but we've checked, tightened, and checked and tightened again and nothing seems to change. Not having a reverse-flow preventing valve on the inlet side just don't seem right, somehow. All info, SWAGs, etc. accepted/appreciated. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 22:04:20 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Bob Spidell Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 11:43:25 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump Bob - I can't say offhand because my BN1 has had a KIWI plastic pump on it since I bought the car. That being said, here's a breakdown of your pump online: http://www.sucarb.co.uk/SUpumpClassic.aspx?ProductId=26731 Do the parts match? Alan On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 9:27 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > I'm most familiar with BJ8 fuel pumps--being able to assemble at least two working units out of a large collection of parts at any given time--but I'm having trouble with a BN2 fuel pump. The BJ8 pumps have a valve body with two thin reed-type valves--one on the suction side and one on the pressure side (they are set up differently, of course, but I believe the valves are the same). Anyway, my BJ8 pumps a few times when energized and settles into a steady rhythm of a pump every 5-6 seconds with the engine not running. With the engine running, the pump speeds up according to engine speed; a pump every 2-3 seconds at idle, a couple pumps a second during acceleration, and a steady pump every 1-2 seconds at cruise. Very logical. > > Our BN2's pump--a brand new SU electronic--is a different design. There is only one valve--a brass disk, basically--on the output side and nothing on the suction/inlet side (it almost seems like it's supposed to siphon as much as pump). This pump behaves erratically--it'll pump rapidly when the key comes on, and seems to settle down but then starts pumping erratically. It pumps almost continuously with the engine running--the engine runs fine, BTW--but it's still an erratic continuous. > > Is this typical for the BN2 pump? It appears this design is way inferior to the BJ8 pump design--in spite of the lovely brass machine work inside--and I'm glad to see SU improved the design (and probably make it cheaper, to boot), but it doesn't seem right to me. I haven't ruled out air leaks, but we've checked, tightened, and checked and tightened again and nothing seems to change. Not having a reverse-flow preventing valve on the inlet side just don't seem right, somehow. > > All info, SWAGs, etc. accepted/appreciated. > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 22:19:07 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Alan Seigrist Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 04:00:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump Yep, except we have electronics instead of points. Note only one valve. bs Bob - I can't say offhand because my BN1 has had a KIWI plastic pump on it since I bought the car. That being said, here's a breakdown of your pump online: http://www.sucarb.co.uk/SUpumpClassic.aspx?ProductId=26731 Do the parts match? Alan _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 05:16:30 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 20:58:27 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! There's nothing quite like an early Sunday morning drive in the Healey, with your gorgeous lady in the passenger seat. Cruising with 4,000 rpm on the tachometer, 70mph on the speedo, (note to self - 65psi on the oil pressure guage, 185 on the temperature guage) - and an amazing exhaust note...... what more could a man want!!! The Healey ran like charm. Geez I've missed this kind of living!!! It was a lovely sunny day - but very windy. We all had a great day, both a bit sunburnt/ windburned, a bit tired, but bloody happy. Just wanted to share. Chris. P.S. I'd also like to apologise to the guy in the white 5.7 litre V8 holden (who was hogging the fast lane). I knocked the Healey out of overdrive and booted it to pass him. He became a small spot in my mirrors up a really long hill. Best of all - as I went past - the look on his face was PRICELESS!!! :-) Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 07:01:33 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Chris Dimmock" , Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 08:48:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! Chris, Sounds like you had a wonderful day. One point though....I don't know what gearing, tires or overdrive ratio you are running but 70 MPH should be at about 3000 RPM, not 4000. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Chris Dimmock" Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 6:58 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! > There's nothing quite like an early Sunday morning drive in the Healey, > with your gorgeous lady in the passenger seat. > Cruising with 4,000 rpm on the tachometer, 70mph on the speedo, (note to > self - 65psi on the oil pressure guage, 185 on the temperature guage) - > and an amazing exhaust note...... what more could a man want!!! > The Healey ran like charm. > Geez I've missed this kind of living!!! > It was a lovely sunny day - but very windy. > We all had a great day, both a bit sunburnt/ windburned, a bit tired, but > bloody happy. > Just wanted to share. > Chris. > P.S. > I'd also like to apologise to the guy in the white 5.7 litre V8 holden > (who was hogging the fast lane). > I knocked the Healey out of overdrive and booted it to pass him. > He became a small spot in my mirrors up a really long hill. > Best of all - as I went past - the look on his face was PRICELESS!!! > :-) > > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 08:33:53 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: Rich C Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 00:06:07 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! Ok Rich. You got me. One of those numbers is clearly wrong..... ;-) But I know it was 5,800 rpm in direct top after I passed the clown in the 5.7 v8, when flicked back into overdrive.... I'm sure that's under the legal limit. Isn't it?? ;-) Actually - as an aside - one of the guys had a new 6.2 litre v8 HSV commodore there. They claim 550NM of torque. I said that's pretty good, but not very efficent. He said - What? I explained my maths - having nearly 340 NM of torque (at the rear wheels) http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html from a 3 litre 6 Healey, weighing around half the weight of his 6.2 litre..... Hence the overtake, up a 2 mile hill, on one of his lesser torqued mates...... Geez, the things I do to ensure the respect for the marque! Fun. ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 05/09/2010, at 10:48 PM, "Rich C" wrote: > Chris, > > Sounds like you had a wonderful day. One point though....I don't > know what gearing, tires or overdrive ratio you are running but 70 > MPH should be at about 3000 RPM, not 4000. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Chris Dimmock" > Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 6:58 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! > >> There's nothing quite like an early Sunday morning drive in the >> Healey, with your gorgeous lady in the passenger seat. >> Cruising with 4,000 rpm on the tachometer, 70mph on the speedo, >> (note to self - 65psi on the oil pressure guage, 185 on the >> temperature guage) - and an amazing exhaust note...... what more >> could a man want!!! >> The Healey ran like charm. >> Geez I've missed this kind of living!!! >> It was a lovely sunny day - but very windy. >> We all had a great day, both a bit sunburnt/ windburned, a bit >> tired, but bloody happy. >> Just wanted to share. >> Chris. >> P.S. >> I'd also like to apologise to the guy in the white 5.7 litre V8 >> holden (who was hogging the fast lane). >> I knocked the Healey out of overdrive and booted it to pass him. >> He became a small spot in my mirrors up a really long hill. >> Best of all - as I went past - the look on his face was PRICELESS!!! >> :-) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 08:51:16 2010 From: "warthodson@aol.com" To: healey.nut@gmail.com, bspidell@comcast.net Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 10:23:31 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump Bob, The diagram in the link below shows two valve disks. Does your pump have both? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Alan Seigrist To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 10:43 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump Bob - I can't say offhand because my BN1 has had a KIWI plastic pump on it ince I bought the car. That being said, here's a breakdown of your pump online: http://www.sucarb.co.uk/SUpumpClassic.aspx?ProductId=26731 Do the parts match? Alan _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 08:51:43 2010 From: Bob Haskell To: Bob Spidell Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 10:35:05 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Pump Bob, The HP pump you're working with and the later LCS (square body) pump have just one valve. The two HP pumps I have (points and electronic) both have two valve discs (p/n 29 on the parts diagram on the SU carb site that Alan sent). One is in the top of the valve body (p/n 33) held in with a bent wire spring (p/n 32) - delivery valve. The other sits below the valve body - suction valve. I don't understand why your pump only has one disc. The period workshop manual I have states that the pump should go at least 15 seconds between pumps when dead headed. See the fault diagnostics on page 78 of the SU Carb Manual on John Sim's site for some additional info: http://www.healey6.com/bulletins/Su%20Carb%20Manual.pdf. How it works (I had a pump apart): When the coil is energized, the diaphragm (p/n 1) moves away from the pump body - the suction stroke. The top valve disc gets sucked down and that blocks the line to the carbs. Fuel gets sucked from the fuel tank, through the filter and the valve body, and into the chamber formed by the diaphragm and the round aluminum body piece (p/n 39). When the rocker/points assembly throws over, the coil is de-energized. The spring (p/n 3) pushes the diaphragm back pushing the fuel back into the valve body. The pressure forces the lower valve disc to seal against its seat and the upper disc to move away from its seat, pushing the fuel towards the carbs. Cheers, Bob Haskell 3000 MkI Registrar Bob Spidell wrote: > Yep, except we have electronics instead of points. Note only one valve. > > bs _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 09:34:04 2010 From: Robert Duquette To: Healeys Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 15:15:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander >From "Bring a Trailer": http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/1934416382.html Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 10:02:28 2010 From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Robert Duquette" , "Healeys" Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 10:40:27 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander Yikes, They've taken a 100 and made it look like a box Sprite! Haven't seen that one before, but yes worth a "gander" if solid underneath. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 10:19:37 2010 From: Robert Duquette To: Healeys Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 16:01:14 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander Hey! Hey, now! I think 'box' Sprites take exception to being called 'box Sprites'!! ;) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: glemon@neb.rr.com > > Yikes, They've taken a 100 and made it look like a box Sprite! Haven't seen > that one before, but yes worth a "gander" if solid underneath. > > Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 10:49:39 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Healeys Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 11:26:35 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander Shoot RD, you can't even get your indignity right !!! << I think 'box' Sprites take exception to being called 'box Sprites'!! >> SHOULD read: "I think a garage full of 'box' Sprites take........" Tsk, tsk !! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 10:50:17 2010 From: robert westcott <55healey@comcast.net> To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 09:28:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] penetrating oil order I was wondering if there are enough local Cascade members that would like to go in on ordering a case of this stuff. It sounds great but I have no idea of what I would do with 12 cans. I would order a case and pass the stuff on to others at my cost if there were enough people interested. Thanks, Rob Westcott (425) 644 - 9590 Healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Sat, September 4, 2010 7:05:52 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared If you need it, just order it (this just recd after query): "We sell by the case only at $48 plus UPS shipping cost. We do not pad the shipping cost. The case consists of 12- 13 oz cans with the handy extension tubes. I will be back in the office Tuesday afternoon. Further information can be found at: www.maltbycompany.com . Thank You, Dorothy" _________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 10:51:15 2010 From: Bob To: Healey List Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 18:35:24 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! Less than that in an E-type. 120 KPH - 3000rpm B Le 05/09/10 14:48, Rich C a icrit : > > Chris, > > Sounds like you had a wonderful day. One point though....I don't know what > gearing, tires or overdrive ratio you are running but 70 MPH should be at > about 3000 RPM, not 4000. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Chris Dimmock" > >> There's nothing quite like an early Sunday morning drive in the Healey, with >> your gorgeous lady in the passenger seat. >> Cruising with 4,000 rpm on the tachometer, 70mph on the speedo, ( _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 11:04:05 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Rich C , Chris Dimmock Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 12:45:56 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my Healey pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. OK---flame suit on. tom ---- Chris Dimmock wrote: ============= Ok Rich. You got me. One of those numbers is clearly wrong..... ;-) But I know it was 5,800 rpm in direct top after I passed the clown in the 5.7 v8, when flicked back into overdrive.... I'm sure that's under the legal limit. Isn't it?? ;-) Actually - as an aside - one of the guys had a new 6.2 litre v8 HSV commodore there. They claim 550NM of torque. I said that's pretty good, but not very efficent. He said - What? I explained my maths - having nearly 340 NM of torque (at the rear wheels) http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html from a 3 litre 6 Healey, weighing around half the weight of his 6.2 litre..... Hence the overtake, up a 2 mile hill, on one of his lesser torqued mates...... Geez, the things I do to ensure the respect for the marque! Fun. ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 05/09/2010, at 10:48 PM, "Rich C" wrote: > Chris, > > Sounds like you had a wonderful day. One point though....I don't > know what gearing, tires or overdrive ratio you are running but 70 > MPH should be at about 3000 RPM, not 4000. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Chris Dimmock" > Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 6:58 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] What a great day! > >> There's nothing quite like an early Sunday morning drive in the >> Healey, with your gorgeous lady in the passenger seat. >> Cruising with 4,000 rpm on the tachometer, 70mph on the speedo, >> (note to self - 65psi on the oil pressure guage, 185 on the >> temperature guage) - and an amazing exhaust note...... what more >> could a man want!!! >> The Healey ran like charm. >> Geez I've missed this kind of living!!! >> It was a lovely sunny day - but very windy. >> We all had a great day, both a bit sunburnt/ windburned, a bit >> tired, but bloody happy. >> Just wanted to share. >> Chris. >> P.S. >> I'd also like to apologise to the guy in the white 5.7 litre V8 >> holden (who was hogging the fast lane). >> I knocked the Healey out of overdrive and booted it to pass him. >> He became a small spot in my mirrors up a really long hill. >> Best of all - as I went past - the look on his face was PRICELESS!!! >> :-) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 11:17:53 2010 From: Tom Felts To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 12:59:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day. OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my Healey pulls these hills nicely, it is not as aggressive on them as the E-Type (not close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. OK---flame suit on. tom ---- Chris Dimmock wrote: ============= Ok Rich. You got me. One of those numbers is clearly wrong..... ;-) But I know it was 5,800 rpm in direct top after I passed the clown in the 5.7 v8, when flicked back into overdrive.... _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 11:18:21 2010 From: Robert Duquette To: Healeys Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 17:02:58 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander Perhaps, but I think my signature said half of it ... But,if anyone really wants to see the more of the madness, you just shorten the url below to: www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp and you can browse through the images. ( or you could take the temp off too and see the now abandoned poor attempt at a website ... ) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 11:26:35 -0500 > From: shop@justbrits.com > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander > > Shoot RD, you can't even get your indignity right !!! > > << I think 'box' Sprites take exception to being called 'box Sprites'!! >> > > SHOULD read: "I think a garage full of 'box' Sprites take........" > > Tsk, tsk !! > > Ed > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette@sympatico.ca _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 13:03:24 2010 From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Robert Duquette" , "Healeys" Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 13:42:57 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander Hey my first car was a post bugeye Sprite, my second car was Sprite with an external trunk lid, if you don't call them "b$# Sprites" what do you call them? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 13:20:07 2010 From: HealeyRick To: Healeys , Robert Duquette Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 12:02:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander Only gander I'd give it is Gander Bay. I like how it's listed as a 100 L. Apparently it is the model BEFORE Donald got it right with the M. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sun, 9/5/10, Robert Duquette wrote: From: Robert Duquette Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander To: "Healeys" Date: Sunday, September 5, 2010, 11:15 AM >From "Bring a Trailer": http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/1934416382.html Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 14:50:46 2010 From: Jim McDermott To: <55healey@comcast.net>, Austin_Healey Healey_Net Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 13:19:22 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] penetrating oil order Rob, I would take a couple of cans. Jim McDermott > From: 55healey@comcast.net > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 09:28:15 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] penetrating oil order > > I was wondering if there are enough local Cascade members that would > like to go in on ordering a case of this stuff. It sounds great but I > have no idea of what I would do with 12 cans. > I would order a case and pass the stuff on to others at my cost if > there were enough people interested. > > Thanks, > > Rob Westcott > > (425) 644 - 9590 > > > > Healeys@autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, September 4, 2010 7:05:52 PM > Subject: Re: > [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared > > > If you need it, just order it (this just > recd after query): > > "We sell by the case only at $48 plus UPS shipping cost. > We do not pad the > shipping cost. The case consists of 12- 13 oz cans with > the handy extension > tubes. > > > I will be back in the office Tuesday afternoon. > Further information can be found at: www.maltbycompany.com . > > Thank You, > Dorothy" > _________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmcd206@msn.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 16:09:45 2010 From: "Mike Slechta" To: "Jim McDermott" , <55healey@comcast.net>, Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 16:41:23 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] penetrating oil order Rob ~ I'll take some too. If they don't well, I'll take 2 cans. If they go fast, I'll take just one. Thanks, Mad Mike, Cottage Grove, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim McDermott To: 55healey@comcast.net ; Austin_Healey Healey_Net Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 3:19 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] penetrating oil order Rob, I would take a couple of cans. Jim McDermott > From: 55healey@comcast.net > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 09:28:15 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] penetrating oil order > > I was wondering if there are enough local Cascade members that would > like to go in on ordering a case of this stuff. It sounds great but I > have no idea of what I would do with 12 cans. > I would order a case and pass the stuff on to others at my cost if > there were enough people interested. > > Thanks, > > Rob Westcott > > (425) 644 - 9590 > > > > Healeys@autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, September 4, 2010 7:05:52 PM > Subject: Re: > [Healeys] Penetrating oils compared > > > If you need it, just order it (this just > recd after query): > > "We sell by the case only at $48 plus UPS shipping cost. > We do not pad the > shipping cost. The case consists of 12- 13 oz cans with > the handy extension > tubes. > > > I will be back in the office Tuesday afternoon. > Further information can be found at: www.maltbycompany.com . > > Thank You, > Dorothy" > _________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmcd206@msn.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mslechta@chartermi.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 17:03:47 2010 From: "Mike Brouillette" To: "Healey List" Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:26:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Who was in the maroon 3000 enjoying a sunny day in Rye NH? Beautiful day in New Hampshire today that I decided to go for a drive up the coast in a non Healey, but was curious who was in that beautiful maroon 3000 enjoying a sunny day in Rye NH? Mike Brouillette 59 BT7 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 17:19:08 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Tom Felts , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 07:04:04 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day. Chris Dimmock's Healey is race prepared... On 9/6/10, Tom Felts wrote: > OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. > I live > in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my Healey > pulls > these hills nicely, it is not as aggressive on them as the E-Type (not > close), > and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. > > My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. > > OK---flame suit on. > > tom > > ---- Chris Dimmock wrote: > > ============= > Ok Rich. > You got me. One of those numbers is clearly wrong..... > ;-) > But I know it was 5,800 rpm in direct top after I passed the clown in > the 5.7 v8, when flicked back into overdrive.... > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 18:20:54 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Friends of Triumph Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 18:56:01 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day. Aaaaaah, geesh Alan ...................... << Chris Dimmock's Healey is race prepared... >> Ya let the 'cat outta da bag' for poor Tom !!! LOL !! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 18:22:01 2010 From: "Frank Magnusson" To: Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 19:05:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] odd noise and rough running A strange thing happened on the way home yesterday. I was going 50-55 or so and decided not to switch into OD as I only had a couple miles to go; normally I run around 3000 rpm; but wirthout the OD it was around 3500. All of a sudden I heard this whizzing noise like two gears not quite meshing; something rotating coming into contact with something else anyway and the car started running very rough. Stalled it approaching a stop sign which I decided to run and dropped it into second and popped the clutch and got it running again. The noise went away after 10-15 seconds. Still running crappy as I got into the driveway. But a little better and well enough to let it run unattended while I put the garage door up. Now running better; decided to run it around the block and low and behold; ran fine and everyhting sounded normal. The only thing that was different weas that the tach read around 1500 and clearly it sounded like my normal idle at around 1000 or less. This morning I looked it over, water pump, generator, and distributor all looked good with no play in anything; cap and rotor looked fine as well. Drove around the block for 5 miles or so up to 4,000 rpm in and out of OD; running normally. The only thing that makes sense to me is the distributor and I wonder if the odd rpm reading when it gets hot is a clue; condensor, coil?. But I can't figure out what the noise was. Anybody have any ideas? thanks, Frank '65 BJ8 Wichita, KS. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 19:18:03 2010 From: Tom Felts To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 21:04:20 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day. No disrespect to Chris or his car, but that has to be one fast Healey and not a Nasty Boy at that---is it? As I was thinking this over, I was thinking how fast my wifes 545I BMW is and somehow just can't imagine a Healey pulling away from it on an incline and it isn't a 5.6L----but what do I know? Cheers Tom ---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" wrote: ============= Aaaaaah, geesh Alan ...................... << Chris Dimmock's Healey is race prepared... >> Ya let the 'cat outta da bag' for poor Tom !!! LOL !! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 19:34:00 2010 From: I Erbs To: HealeyRick Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:10:10 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander It was removed by seller. Never saw it I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Sep 5, 2010, at 12:02 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Only gander I'd give it is Gander Bay. I like how it's listed as a > 100 L. > Apparently it is the model BEFORE Donald got it right with the M. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Sun, 9/5/10, Robert Duquette > wrote: > > From: Robert Duquette > Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander > To: "Healeys" > Date: Sunday, September 5, 2010, 11:15 AM > >> From "Bring a Trailer": > > > > http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/1934416382.html > > > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 20:02:54 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "I Erbs" , "HealeyRick" Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 21:44:07 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander I didn't see it either. Anybody get any numbers? Rich Chrysler Hundred Registrar -------------------------------------------------- From: "I Erbs" Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 9:10 PM To: "HealeyRick" Cc: "Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander > It was removed by seller. Never saw it > > I Erbs > Sent from my iPod > > On Sep 5, 2010, at 12:02 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > >> Only gander I'd give it is Gander Bay. I like how it's listed as a 100 >> L. >> Apparently it is the model BEFORE Donald got it right with the M. >> >> Rick >> >> >> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo >> >> --- On Sun, 9/5/10, Robert Duquette wrote: >> >> From: Robert Duquette >> Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander >> To: "Healeys" >> Date: Sunday, September 5, 2010, 11:15 AM >> >>> From "Bring a Trailer": >> >> >> >> http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/1934416382.html >> >> >> >> Robert Duquette >> Ottawa ON Canada >> 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) >> 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) >> 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) >> >> http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 20:03:30 2010 From: Richard Dryman To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:46:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight An 1964 AH3000,red, is in the Masterpiece Mystery "The Dead of Winter" [Inspector Lewis] on PBS listed to be shown tonight, 9-5 at 9pmEDT. May be shown at another time in other places. Shown at about 10 min mark into show; still watching so don't know if it is there again. The top was down in this one. >>> http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/lewis/deadofwinter.html _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 20:19:13 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Tom Felts Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 10:03:27 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day. Well, if you are first off the line, you can usually lead the pack. Here are Chris's specs: http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html Not all of his power ratings are at the rear wheels. Alan On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 9:04 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > No disrespect to Chris or his car, but that has to be one fast Healey and not a Nasty Boy at that---is it? > > As I was thinking this over, I was thinking how fast my wifes 545I BMW is and somehow just can't imagine a Healey pulling away from it on an incline and it isn't a 5.6L----but what do I know? > > Cheers > Tom > > ---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" wrote: > > ============= > Aaaaaah, geesh Alan ...................... > > << Chris Dimmock's Healey is race prepared... >> > > Ya let the 'cat outta da bag' for poor Tom !!! LOL !! > > Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 21:07:47 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Frank Magnusson Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 19:37:55 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] odd noise and rough running This is just a SWAG, but could the rotor have contacted the terminals inside the distributor cap? I have, on at least one occasion, left one of the clips off the cap and the cap was tilted slightly, but it didn't make any sound--if it had been tilted much more I'm sure it would have made some noise. bs Frank Magnusson wrote: > A strange thing happened on the way home yesterday. I was going 50-55 or so > and decided not to switch into OD as I only had a couple miles to go; normally > I run around 3000 rpm; but wirthout the OD it was around 3500. All of a > sudden I heard this whizzing noise like two gears not quite meshing; something > rotating coming into contact with something else anyway and the car started > running very rough. Stalled it approaching a stop sign which I decided to run > and dropped it into second and popped the clutch and got it running again. > The noise went away after 10-15 seconds. Still running crappy as I got into > the driveway. But a little better and well enough to let it run unattended > while I put the garage door up. Now running better; decided to run it around > the block and low and behold; ran fine and everyhting sounded normal. The > only thing that was different weas that the tach read around 1500 and clearly > it sounded like my normal idle at around 1000 or less. > > This morning I looked it over, water pump, generator, and distributor all > looked good with no play in anything; cap and rotor looked fine as well. > Drove around the block for 5 miles or so up to 4,000 rpm in and out of OD; > running normally. > > The only thing that makes sense to me is the distributor and I wonder if the > odd rpm reading when it gets hot is a clue; condensor, coil?. But I can't > figure out what the noise was. > > Anybody have any ideas? > > thanks, > Frank > '65 BJ8 > Wichita, KS. > > > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 21:08:33 2010 From: Bob Johnson To: Richard Dryman Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 22:48:26 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight It was there with a louvered hood. Bob Johnson BJ8 On Sep 5, 2010 10:04 PM, "Richard Dryman" wrote: An 1964 AH3000,red, is in the Masterpiece Mystery "The Dead of Winter" [Inspector Lewis] on PBS listed to be shown tonight, 9-5 at 9pmEDT. May be shown at another time in other places. Shown at about 10 min mark into show; still watching so don't know if it is there again. The top was down in this one. >>> http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/lewis/deadofwinter.html _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 21:08:51 2010 From: To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:53:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?penetrating_oils?= since acetone is highly volatile and would evaporate quickly, what is its function in the 50/50 mix? hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 22:06:35 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 11:27:02 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] penetrating oils I would suggest the acetone acts as a wetting agent, overcoming the surface tension in ATF, allowing the oil to creep into the cracks. Then it evaporates leaving the ATF. I would assume you should use modern ATF for this purpose, and avoid ATF like Type F or Type A which doesn't have friction modifiers. Alan On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 10:53 AM, wrote: > since acetone is highly volatile and would evaporate quickly, what is its function in the 50/50 mix? hjim _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 00:02:02 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Rich C' , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 07:35:14 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander Hello Rich, Follow the BaT link: http://tinyurl.com/2v6r9bx But the Craiglist listing is gone.. No numbers, sorry.. Best, Tadek Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 21:44:07 -0400 From: "Rich C" Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander To: "I Erbs" , "HealeyRick" Cc: Healeys Message-ID: <41C939D957FC47E7B0224964FB5A144A@LIFEBOOK> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response I didn't see it either. Anybody get any numbers? Rich Chrysler Hundred Registrar _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 08:19:56 2010 From: "Frank Magnusson" To: "Bob Spidell" Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 09:00:14 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] odd noise and rough running I was wondering that as well. I had just had the cap off a few weeks before but had run the car several times with no problems. There is a slight bit of play between the metal finger on the rotor and the bakelite rotor itself where the two are attached with a rivit, but that play was there before. I didn't look closely at the contacts inside the cap; I'll take a lolok at that this morning. thanks, Frank ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "Frank Magnusson" Cc: Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 9:37 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] odd noise and rough running > This is just a SWAG, but could the rotor have contacted the terminals > inside the distributor cap? I have, on at least one occasion, left one of > the clips off the cap and the cap was tilted slightly, but it didn't make > any sound--if it had been tilted much more I'm sure it would have made > some noise. > > bs > > > > Frank Magnusson wrote: >> A strange thing happened on the way home yesterday. I was going 50-55 or >> so >> and decided not to switch into OD as I only had a couple miles to go; >> normally >> I run around 3000 rpm; but wirthout the OD it was around 3500. All of a >> sudden I heard this whizzing noise like two gears not quite meshing; >> something >> rotating coming into contact with something else anyway and the car >> started >> running very rough. Stalled it approaching a stop sign which I decided >> to run >> and dropped it into second and popped the clutch and got it running >> again. >> The noise went away after 10-15 seconds. Still running crappy as I got >> into >> the driveway. But a little better and well enough to let it run >> unattended >> while I put the garage door up. Now running better; decided to run it >> around >> the block and low and behold; ran fine and everyhting sounded normal. >> The >> only thing that was different weas that the tach read around 1500 and >> clearly >> it sounded like my normal idle at around 1000 or less. >> >> This morning I looked it over, water pump, generator, and distributor all >> looked good with no play in anything; cap and rotor looked fine as well. >> Drove around the block for 5 miles or so up to 4,000 rpm in and out of >> OD; >> running normally. >> >> The only thing that makes sense to me is the distributor and I wonder if >> the >> odd rpm reading when it gets hot is a clue; condensor, coil?. But I >> can't >> figure out what the noise was. >> >> Anybody have any ideas? >> >> thanks, >> Frank >> '65 BJ8 >> Wichita, KS. >> >> >> > > > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 08:40:17 2010 From: "Frank Magnusson" To: Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 09:12:13 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] penetrating oil order I missed the original post on this, so I don't know what oil you are looking at or what oils were discussed. But, I got introduced to a product called Break Free while I worked for the military many years ago. I have used this for many years and it literally is an order of magitude better than anything I have ever used. You can get it at any good gun store. Sorry if this is old info. Frank Magnusson Wichita, KS '65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 10:09:22 2010 From: Dan S To: Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 08:44:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: odd noise and rough running You might try replacing the rotor with a new one and see what happens. I had the same problem awhile ago and couldn't see any visible damage to the old rotor. Put a new one on and everything was fine. Some of the rotors available are notorious for developing very small cracks that can't be seen by the naked eye. Jeff at Advanced Distributors sells a very high quality rotor. Dan Serrao 1963 BJ7 Fountain Hills, AZ People who don't read the newspaper are uninformed, those who read the newspaper are misinformed........ Mark Twain _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 14:02:17 2010 From: Greg Mandas To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 12:45:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute I just went to Amazon and they say CD-2 Lead substitute is out of stock and they don't know if/or when it'll be back. I like it because of the self measuring bottle. What's a Healey driver to do? Any suggestions? Greg _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 14:46:43 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Greg Mandas Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 22:24:36 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute You do not need lead substitute. Use petrol only , the highest octane rating available, in EU it would be 98. Adjust (retard) the ignition if necessary to prevent detonation. Do not worry about recessed valve seats. It simply does not happen in most cases with healthy engines, and when it happens it is time for a head rebuild anyway with new valves and hardened valve seats. It was a big scare when the lead in petrol was abolished. A lot of people had their cylinder heads rebuild with hardened seats and better valves at great expense. The industry loved it. The people that did not bother were far better of as in the end there were very, very few incidences with recessed valve seats, if any, in spite of the full blown hype about it. Most trouble was as usual from to tightly adjusted tappets. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 15:19:48 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Greg Mandas'" , Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:50:41 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute Stop using it! I haven't done a valve job since un-leaded fuel was introduced.. just saying. dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Mandas Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 1:45 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute I just went to Amazon and they say CD-2 Lead substitute is out of stock and they don't know if/or when it'll be back. I like it because of the self measuring bottle. What's a Healey driver to do? Any suggestions? Greg _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 16:17:36 2010 From: I Erbs To: Greg Mandas Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:49:21 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute Low lead aviation fuel. Mixed in. I use 1/4 tank av gas to 3/4 unleaded premium. On Sep 6, 2010 1:02 PM, "Greg Mandas" wrote: > I just went to Amazon and they say CD-2 Lead substitute is out of stock and they don't know if/or when it'll be back. I like it because of the self measuring bottle. > > What's a Healey driver to do? Any suggestions? > > Greg > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 16:18:28 2010 From: Robert Duquette To: Healeys Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 21:52:31 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander No offense taken. :) I call them Sprites ... usually with with either a mk ii or iii or iv, but usually just by year. The bugeyes or frogeyes have their nicknames, but the others don't necessarily have to. Would you comment to your wife about 'hooters' girls and tell her that she's a square body? :) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: glemon@neb.rr.com > Hey my first car was a post bugeye Sprite, my second car was Sprite with an > external trunk lid, if you don't call them "b$# Sprites" what do you call > them? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 16:38:11 2010 From: HealeyRick To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 15:06:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid Capacity? Anyone know approximately how much fluid I'll need for a complete purge of the hydraulics in a BJ7 - no power booster? Thanks, Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 16:51:50 2010 From: Robert Duquette To: Healeys Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 22:38:25 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could take an e. He conceded silently. ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my Healey pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. > > My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. > > OK---flame suit on. > > tom _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 17:22:09 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:53:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Luggage Rack Not Fitting Got a new Moss luggage rack that appears to be a wrong fit. I got my old hinge pins out and replaced them with the optional rack pins. These pins have a nut, a threaded area and the acorn nut. My question is where exactly do the rack tabs go in conjunction with the pin/ thread set up. The holes in the rack tabs are big enough to go over the threaded area but the tabs are not welded far enough apart to get them over both the left and the right threaded areas. The rack tabs fit exactly next to the hinges with no extra play what so ever so I can slide the pins through the tab holes but there is no way that I can get the tabs over the threaded area. Can someone tell me the sequence in which the luggage tabs should go on the pins. Or a couple of pictures would be great. Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 17:22:59 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Robert Duquette , Healeys Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 07:02:54 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! My Toyota Sienta MPV can take on the e-type. That Moss Box is like shifting a bag of rocks, and that's after it's been rebuilt! Alan On 9/7/10, Robert Duquette wrote: > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 17:33:14 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Robert Duquette , Healeys Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 19:19:55 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! Maybe if it hasn't been tuned properly, oh, and try it from 35 to 90--we will see how big that smile is:) ---- Robert Duquette wrote: ============= a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could take an e. He conceded silently. ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my Healey pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. > > My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. > > OK---flame suit on. > > tom _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 17:47:34 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: "healeys@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 18:25:11 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] CD-2 Lead Substitute << Low lead aviation fuel. Mixed in. I use 1/4 tank av gas to 3/4 unleaded premium. >> When I have AvGas Ira, I just use a qt. or 2 per full fill-up or I just use 108 Octane Boost. AvGas DOES work better tho!! LOL 'Course I can go about 5 towns East of me and get Sunoco Racing Fuel !!! Few years ago I accidentally put about 12 gals in "Hortense" !! AFTER my "wallet SHOCK", I did learn that "Hortense" LOVES, let me repeat LOVES the stuff !!!! LOL !!!! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 17:48:25 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Healeys Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 18:27:28 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander << usually with with either a mk ii or iii or iv, but usually just by year. >> Or RWA - SWA, right RD ???? !! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 17:48:55 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Alan Seigrist , Robert Duquette Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 19:30:53 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! The Moss box was only on the very first ones---changed to all-syncro in late 64 - early 65. There's one thing to win a drag race--quite another to press the big numbers. Heck--you can put a 427 in a go cart and take on anyone but you still have a go-cart. I can't tell you how many "fast" drag cars peter out in the high ranges---the E is still not too shabby 0-60, but get her on the open road and she will go like crazy---and I can still take my old 44 year old girl out with the best of them on the open road. So----the most beautiful sports car ever made (the E-Type) still rocks!!:):) Cheers tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= My Toyota Sienta MPV can take on the e-type. That Moss Box is like shifting a bag of rocks, and that's after it's been rebuilt! Alan On 9/7/10, Robert Duquette wrote: > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 18:08:18 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Tom Felts , Robert Duquette Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 07:42:42 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! Oh, once I get the S1 E-Type into gear it leaves everything in the dust. It's an open road car. The BJ8 is better in the tight roads, the 100 is the best for the curvy stuff. The A90 is best on a straight runway for 747s, and it's good to do a prayer or two when you get to a turn. On 9/7/10, Tom Felts wrote: > Maybe if it hasn't been tuned properly, oh, and try it from 35 to 90--we > will see how big that smile is:) > > > ---- Robert Duquette wrote: > > ============= > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 18:23:37 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Tom Felts" , "Robert Duquette" Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:08:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! You fellows are all being totally ridiculous. And comparing period this vs. that of the modern era could go on forever. It's meaningless crap. Try putting something of the same period up against our British favourites. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Felts" Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 7:19 PM To: "Robert Duquette" ; "Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! > Maybe if it hasn't been tuned properly, oh, and try it from 35 to 90--we > will see how big that smile is:) > > > ---- Robert Duquette wrote: > > ============= > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e > off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) > could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. >> I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type > (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 18:24:22 2010 From: "John Trifari" To: "'Bob Johnson'" , "'Richard Dryman'" Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 17:09:51 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight Dull, ponderous episode despite the glimpse of the Healey--a real yawner. I turned it off halfway though and watched House. Lewis just ain't no Morse. Who did it? What happened to the Jag? John Trifari--Golden Gate AHC -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Johnson Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 7:48 PM To: Richard Dryman Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight It was there with a louvered hood. Bob Johnson BJ8 On Sep 5, 2010 10:04 PM, "Richard Dryman" wrote: An 1964 AH3000,red, is in the Masterpiece Mystery "The Dead of Winter" [Inspector Lewis] on PBS listed to be shown tonight, 9-5 at 9pmEDT. May be shown at another time in other places. Shown at about 10 min mark into show; still watching so don't know if it is there again. The top was down in this one. >>> http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/lewis/deadofwinter.html _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtrifari@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 18:35:24 2010 From: S and T Miller To: Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:16:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Factory hardtop Can anyone tell me where the factory hardtops are stamped with their serial number? Does it correspond to a car number at all? Thanks, Shawn The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 18:48:15 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Alan Seigrist , Robert Duquette Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:26:33 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! As I said----not all S1 E's had the Moss box--the later ones shift like a dream. ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= Oh, once I get the S1 E-Type into gear it leaves everything in the dust. It's an open road car. The BJ8 is better in the tight roads, the 100 is the best for the curvy stuff. The A90 is best on a straight runway for 747s, and it's good to do a prayer or two when you get to a turn. On 9/7/10, Tom Felts wrote: > Maybe if it hasn't been tuned properly, oh, and try it from 35 to 90--we > will see how big that smile is:) > > > ---- Robert Duquette wrote: > > ============= > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 18:49:27 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Rich C , Robert Duquette Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:27:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! My point exactly. ---- Rich C wrote: ============= You fellows are all being totally ridiculous. And comparing period this vs. that of the modern era could go on forever. It's meaningless crap. Try putting something of the same period up against our British favourites. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Felts" Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 7:19 PM To: "Robert Duquette" ; "Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! > Maybe if it hasn't been tuned properly, oh, and try it from 35 to 90--we > will see how big that smile is:) > > > ---- Robert Duquette wrote: > > ============= > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e > off > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) > could > take an e. He conceded silently. > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > Robert Duquette > Ottawa ON Canada > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. >> I > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > Healey > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type > (not > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. >> >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. >> >> OK---flame suit on. >> >> tom > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 18:49:55 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Alan Seigrist , Tom Felts Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:30:00 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! ============= The Moss box was only on the very first ones---changed to all-syncro in late 64 - early 65. There's one thing to win a drag race--quite another to press the big numbers. Heck--you can put a 427 in a go cart and take on anyone but you still have a go-cart. I can't tell you how many "fast" drag cars peter out in the high ranges---the E is still not too shabby 0-60, but get her on the open road and she will go like crazy---and I can still take my old 44 year old girl out with the best of them on the open road. So----the most beautiful sports car ever made (the E-Type) still rocks!!:):) Cheers tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= My Toyota Sienta MPV can take on the e-type. That Moss Box is like shifting a bag of rocks, and that's after it's been rebuilt! Alan _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 19:08:53 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=" To: "=?utf-8?B?Um9iZXJ0IER1cXVldHRl?=" Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 17:42:24 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?54_100_that=27s_worth_a_gander?= Box sprites. No insult intended. Just easier tell difference from frog eye. IMHO Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Robert Duquette" Date: Mon, Sep 6, 2010 2:52 pm Subject: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander To: "Healeys" No offense taken. :) I call them Sprites ... usually with with either a mk ii or iii or iv, but usually just by year. The bugeyes or frogeyes have their nicknames, but the others don't necessarily have to. Would you comment to your wife about 'hooters' girls and tell her that she's a square body? :) Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > From: glemon@neb.rr.com > Hey my first car was a post bugeye Sprite, my second car was Sprite with an > external trunk lid, if you don't call them "b$# Sprites" what do you call > them? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 19:22:12 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Rich C Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 17:59:41 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! My dad's 1965 Mustang with a 289 feels like a boat compared to my (67) BJ8, can probably beat the Healey off the line but would be no competition in the corners. bs Rich C wrote: > You fellows are all being totally ridiculous. And comparing period > this vs. that of the modern era could go on forever. It's meaningless > crap. > > Try putting something of the same period up against our British > favourites. -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 19:22:52 2010 From: Richard Dryman To: John Trifari , Bob Johnson Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:01:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight You generally have to watch something to the end to find out who did it !!!?? To: Bob Johnson ; Richard Dryman Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Mon, September 6, 2010 8:09:51 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] AS info: AH3000 on TV tonight Dull, ponderous episode despite the glimpse of the Healey--a real yawner. I turned it off halfway though and watched House. Lewis just ain't no Morse. Who did it? What happened to the Jag? John Trifari--Golden Gate AHC _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 19:32:53 2010 From: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" To: John Trifari , Bob Johnson Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:21:54 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Factory hardtop The number is on the extrusion on the front end of the right side window piece. It does not relate to car number but indicate 2- or 4- seater. Wilko On Sep 6, 2010, at 5:16 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > Can anyone tell me where the factory hardtops are stamped with their > serial > number? Does it correspond to a car number at all? > Thanks, Shawn > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a > test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 19:50:22 2010 From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Robert Duquette" , "Healeys" Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:25:04 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 54 100 that's worth a gander I don't think there is any offense taken all around, all in good fun, kind of like Sprites :) Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 19:52:09 2010 From: HealeyRick To: Alan Seigrist , Tom Felts Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:31:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! Funny, I was in my local garage this week getitng a vehicle inspection sticker. In one of the bays was sitting a very nice restored E-Type. All i could think of was how could a motoring industry that could produce something as beautiful as this drive itself into the ground? If we looked at 1963 figures, I'm sure the 289 Cobra, XK-E and most of the 327 Corvettes would leave the Healey in the dust. Nevertheless, the Healey was certainly "Top of the Pops" for British sports cars. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 9/6/10, Tom Felts wrote: From: Tom Felts Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! To: "Alan Seigrist" , "Tom Felts" , "Robert Duquette" , "Healeys" Date: Monday, September 6, 2010, 8:30 PM ============= The Moss box was only on the very first ones---changed to all-syncro in late 64 - early 65. There's one thing to win a drag race--quite another to press the big numbers. Heck--you can put a 427 in a go cart and take on anyone but you still have a go-cart. I can't tell you how many "fast" drag cars peter out in the high ranges---the E is still not too shabby 0-60, but get her on the open road and she will go like crazy---and I can still take my old 44 year old girl out with the best of them on the open road. So----the most beautiful sports car ever made (the E-Type) still rocks!!:):) Cheers tom ---- Alan Seigrist wrote: ============= My Toyota Sienta MPV can take on the e-type. That Moss Box is like shifting a bag of rocks, and that's after it's been rebuilt! Alan _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 20:08:52 2010 From: Robert Duquette To: Healeys Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 01:46:20 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! I'm not actually trying to slag e-types, just trying to keep things in perspective. We love the historic machines, but time has marched on. Robert Duquette Ottawa ON Canada 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 07:02:54 +0800 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] What a great day! > From: healey.nut@gmail.com > To: robertduquette@sympatico.ca; healeys@autox.team.net > > My Toyota Sienta MPV can take on the e-type. That Moss Box is like > shifting a bag of rocks, and that's after it's been rebuilt! > > Alan > > On 9/7/10, Robert Duquette wrote: > > a localish guy locally told me that he could make my Midget take a jag e off > > the line and I replied that my ford 3.8L station wagon ( at the time ) could > > take an e. He conceded silently. > > ( and I'll never buy another ford. ) > > > > Robert Duquette > > Ottawa ON Canada > > 1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project ) > > 1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple ) > > 1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen ) > > > > http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg > > > > > >> OK----at the risk of POing someone, let me just say--I'm a skeptic here. I > > live in Western Pa with many hills. I also have an E-Type. Although my > > Healey > > pulls these hills nicely, it is not as agressive on them as the E-Type (not > > close), and neither of them will take on a 5L V8. > >> > >> My guess is that the guy in the 5.7L V8 was not trying. > >> > >> OK---flame suit on. > >> > >> tom > > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 20:21:49 2010 From: Stephen Hutchings To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 22:08:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Steering colunm brace I wonder if any of you would like to check on which hole in the steering column brace the aluminum collar is anchored. I see from my dismantling phoyos that it was originally on the second from the bottom hole, but as I reassemble things, it seems to want to sit at the top hole. I see that the steering box has room for movement on two of the bolt holes, so I'm wondering whether i should shift the column this way to bring it to the original hole. Stephen, BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 20:35:03 2010 From: Randy Hicks To: "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 22:13:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Factory hardtop I believe that 4 seater hardtop numbers start with a "4" and 2 seaters start with a "6". Build date and sequence number are part of the serial number. Randy On Sep 6, 2010, at 9:21 PM, "Eric (Rick) Wilkins" wrote: > The number is on the extrusion on the front end of the right side window piece. It does not relate to car number but indicate 2- or 4-seater. > > Wilko > > On Sep 6, 2010, at 5:16 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > >> Can anyone tell me where the factory hardtops are stamped with their serial >> number? Does it correspond to a car number at all? >> Thanks, Shawn >> >> The Millers >> "British Car Nuts" >> >> 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 >> >> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 >> >> 1964 MGB 40841 >> >> 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 >> >> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test >> drive." >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 21:40:02 2010 From: I Erbs To: Stephen Hutchings Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:03:00 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering colunm brace I believe the holes allow for adjustment in the column to fit variation in drivers. experts???? On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 7:08 PM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > I wonder if any of you would like to check on which hole in the steering > column brace the aluminum collar is anchored. I see from my dismantling > phoyos that it was originally on the second from the bottom hole, but as I > reassemble things, it seems to want to sit at the top hole. > I see that the steering box has room for movement on two of the bolt holes, > so I'm wondering whether i should shift the column this way to bring it to > the original hole. > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 21:53:31 2010 From: "Peter Svilans" To: Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 23:33:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Factory hardtop To be a little more specific: The numbers are oriented so that they can be read sitting in the right-hand seat and looking up and forward. They are on the wide horizontal portion of the extrusion, and are on the far right of that surface, with the base of the numbers up against the short vertical flange which takes the Furflex seal. They start about 2" from the front of the extrusion, and come in three groups separated by spaces, as in: 4/03 62 3565 Best regards Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 22:05:36 2010 From: "Peter Svilans" To: Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 23:48:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Factory hardtop Mis-typed: ....with the base of the numbers up against the short vertical flange which is towards the outside and DOESN"T take the Furflex seal. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 00:01:07 2010 From: Ronald Somers To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 10:41:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] contribution am on the list. need help. want to contribute $12.75. how and where? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 00:31:18 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Ronald Somers Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 14:16:25 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] contribution look below, the link is there! On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 1:41 AM, Ronald Somers wrote: > am on the list. need help. want to contribute $12.75. how and where? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 05:05:03 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Ronald Somers Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 03:46:36 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] contribution Look at the bottom of any list email for the link http://www.team.net/donate.html Sent from my iPhone On Sep 6, 2010, at 10:41, Ronald Somers wrote: > am on the list. need help. want to contribute $12.75. how and where? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 06:50:15 2010 From: Ron Mitchell To: Ronald Somers , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 05:20:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] contribution You might want to click on the link below that follows the word Donate? ________________________________ From: Ronald Somers To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Mon, September 6, 2010 1:41:06 PM Subject: [Healeys] contribution am on the list. need help. want to contribute $12.75. how and where? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htm Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 07:07:30 2010 From: "Rich C" To: , "Stephen Hutchings" Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 08:44:43 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering colunm brace The variation is for the variation of the fit on individual cars. It will be decided also by how it fits to the wood dashboard on your particular car, and how it fits best through the adjustable grommet plates in the bulkhead. Each one is it's own call. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Stephen Hutchings" Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 10:08 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Steering colunm brace > I wonder if any of you would like to check on which hole in the steering > column brace the aluminum collar is anchored. I see from my dismantling > phoyos that it was originally on the second from the bottom hole, but as I > reassemble things, it seems to want to sit at the top hole. > I see that the steering box has room for movement on two of the bolt > holes, so I'm wondering whether i should shift the column this way to > bring it to the original hole. > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 07:09:41 2010 From: "Rich C" To: Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 08:51:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: BN2 Fuel Pump > Bob, > > The original Hundred pump (both BN1 and BN2) was a special HP unit (high > pressure) with a longer solenoid barrel and diaphragm stem. It had a metal > tag fastened to the body stating "This pump is a high pressure pump and is > approximately 1/2" longer than the normal Type L pump. It should only be > replaced by a similar high pressure pump". (see picture). > The new pump should work just fine but it may explain the erratic beating > you are experiencing. > However, you may want to remove the 6 screws around the pump body to > solenoid flange and rotate the diaphragm stem one hole further in or out > to > achieve optimum action. As often as not, these pumps straight out of the > box > may not be set to do their best action and need slight adjustment. > > Rich [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of feb082 009.jpg] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 08:38:05 2010 From: Stephen Hutchings To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 10:05:07 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column brace Thanks to all for the advice on the steering column brace. I had realized that there was a certain amount of adjustment, but I wondered if there was a standard set-up that would be delivered to the dealer. Stephen BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 08:38:58 2010 From: To: Mark LaPierre , healeys@Autox.Team.Net Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 10:10:29 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Luggage Rack Not Fitting Mark, Just a WAG but maybe remove one or both of the hinges, mount the rack to the pins, then reattach the hinges to the car? Keith ---- Mark LaPierre wrote: > Got a new Moss luggage rack that appears to be a wrong fit. I got my old > hinge pins out and replaced them with the > optional rack pins. These pins have a nut, a threaded area and the acorn > nut. My question is where exactly do the rack > tabs go in conjunction with the pin/ thread set up. The holes in the rack > tabs are big enough to go over the threaded area but > the tabs are not welded far enough apart to get them over both the left and > the right threaded areas. The rack tabs fit exactly next > to the hinges with no extra play what so ever so I can slide the pins through > the tab holes but there is no way that I can get the > tabs over the threaded area. > > Can someone tell me the sequence in which the luggage tabs should go on the > pins. Or a couple of pictures would be great. > > Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 08:50:48 2010 From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 10:39:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Paging Jeff Stepek Is Jeff Stepek still on the list? If so, I need to get in touch with you. Thanks, Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 10:32:12 2010 From: Alan Bromfield To: Healey Mail List Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:17:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Steering Escutcheon ring Team........ See my post at http://tinyurl.com/386tp7x which has pictures to accompany the text. I am fitting the escutcheon ring to the dash and having a bit of trouble. From the parts manual two different rings are available and it may be that I have the wrong one for my adjustable steering column/wheel. The escutcheon assembly consists of a triangular backing plate that goes behind the dash. The finisher ring is then inserted from the front and the legs bent around the backing plate to hold the assembly together sandwiching the dash panel between them. Is this correct? The tabs are visible and ugly! It doesn't look right to me. Is that because I have the escutcheon for a non-adjustable setup? If so how does the adjustable set up differ? Thanks............. _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 19:39:54 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Alan Bromfield" , "Healey Mail List" Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 13:30:51 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN4 Steering Escutcheon ring Alan, Your escutcheon is the right one for the adjustable wheel and locking collar. There should be no triangular backing plate in behind at all. The 3 tabs must be splayed and bent outboard and curve around to secure the ring into position against the back side of the dash. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alan Bromfield" Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 12:17 PM To: "Healey Mail List" Subject: [Healeys] BN4 Steering Escutcheon ring > Team........ > See my post at > http://tinyurl.com/386tp7x > which has pictures to accompany the text. > I am fitting the escutcheon ring to the dash and having a bit of > trouble. From the parts manual two different rings are available and > it may be that I have the wrong one for my adjustable steering > column/wheel. The escutcheon assembly consists of a triangular backing > plate that goes behind the dash. The finisher ring is then inserted > from the front and the legs bent around the backing plate to hold the > assembly together sandwiching the dash panel between them. > > Is this correct? The tabs are visible and ugly! > > It doesn't look right to me. Is that because I have the escutcheon for > a non-adjustable setup? > If so how does the adjustable set up differ? > > Thanks............. > _________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) > (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) > (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of August 1 014.jpg] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 06:50:05 2010 From: Rick Swain To: , Healey List Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:33:17 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN4 Steering Escutcheon ring Alan For my non-adjustable steering wheel, the diameter of the hole in the triangular backing plate is slightly larger than the diameter of the hole in the escutcheon ring. That way the tabs on the ring are bent outward, rather than inward, and just don't show. Perhaps you have a mismatched set - are there two different backing plates available as well as two different rings? Rick '59 BN4 (with non-adjustable steering wheel) > Is this correct? The tabs are visible and ugly! > > It doesn't look right to me. Is that because I have the escutcheon for > a non-adjustable setup? > If so how does the adjustable set up differ? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 09:56:07 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 00:20:24 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Earth to Healey list... ??? Haven't seen a Healey list message in 21 hours? Is it just me, or did everyone run out of something to say??? ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 10:46:27 2010 From: "R. Price Lindsay" To: "Healey List" Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:27:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise For the past several trips out in my BJ 8 I have noticed a slight "humming" sound when I step on the gas slightly, ie put a small load on the drive train. I have done this in 3rd and 4th gears and the sound seems to be the same. Also, it is higher pitched at higher speeds. We put it up on a lift and the sound seemed to come from the rear end. I also also noticed oil seeping from one of the rear bearing seals. When I took the car to a local mechanic he told me it's the transmission. Before i start tearing something apart I have to ask if it is likely to be the transmission? Could the sound travel to the rear end and if so, wouldn't it sound different in different gears? Thank you so much for any insight you can provide. Price Lindsay 67 BJ 8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 10:47:41 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com To: rdryman1@yahoo.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 12:32:09 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Return to Bonneville DVD Thank you very much for the review and kind words. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 9/4/2010 7:19:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rdryman1@yahoo.com writes: Re'cd DVD today: EXTREMELY professional; 16:9 format--fills screen, Dolby Audio; basically, I am impressed. Also a bonus DVD: Dinner presentation & questions and answers. You will be pleased if you ordered this. R _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 11:00:54 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 11:36:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Parts for BJ8 or others I have a box of parts left over from my restoring a BJ8 days. It includes a square full pump, several L 691 lenses, seat belts, crank gaskets, etc etc. Some new, some used but in good nick. If anyone is interested I can send a list Regards, Barrie Robinson barrie@look.ca 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 in great nick Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 11:15:34 2010 From: Oudesluys To: "R. Price Lindsay" Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 18:56:51 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise Start by checking/renewing the rear wheel bearings and seals. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 11:44:03 2010 From: BOB BENISEK To: "R. Price Lindsay" Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 13:27:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise Also check the u-joints for wear. ----- Original Message ----- From: "R. Price Lindsay" To: "Healey List" Sent: Wednesday, September 8, 2010 11:27:14 AM Subject: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise For the past several trips out in my BJ 8 I have noticed a slight "humming" sound when I step on the gas slightly, ie put a small load on the drive train. I have done this in 3rd and 4th gears and the sound seems to be the same. Also, it is higher pitched at higher speeds. B We put it up on a lift and the sound seemed to come from the rear end. B I also also noticed oil seeping from one of the rear bearing seals. When I took the car to a local mechanic he told me it's the transmission. Before i start tearing something apart I have to ask if it is likely to be the transmission? B Could the sound travel to the rear end and if so, wouldn't it sound different in different gears? Thank you so much for any insight you can provide. Price Lindsay 67 BJ 8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation B $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rbeni3000@wowway.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 11:46:05 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'R. Price Lindsay'" , "'Healey List'" Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:29:26 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise I agree with Kees. Bearings are an easy 1 day deal and relatively inexpensive. A "humming" is more likely a wheel bearing or differential bearing than a gearbox noise. Use a stethoscope or long screwdriver to localize the sound.. Most mechanics are deaf or getting there... ;>) dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Price Lindsay Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 10:27 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise For the past several trips out in my BJ 8 I have noticed a slight "humming" sound when I step on the gas slightly, ie put a small load on the drive train. I have done this in 3rd and 4th gears and the sound seems to be the same. Also, it is higher pitched at higher speeds. We put it up on a lift and the sound seemed to come from the rear end. I also also noticed oil seeping from one of the rear bearing seals. When I took the car to a local mechanic he told me it's the transmission. Before i start tearing something apart I have to ask if it is likely to be the transmission? Could the sound travel to the rear end and if so, wouldn't it sound different in different gears? Thank you so much for any insight you can provide. Price Lindsay 67 BJ 8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 12:00:57 2010 From: Alan Bromfield To: Healey Mail List Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:39:27 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN4 Steering Escutcheon ring Team. Many thanks for all your prompt and detailed responses. It has been suggested that the escutcheon for an adjustable steering/column uses a backing plate with a larger hole to allow the retaining legs to pass through the hole and bend outward. On checking various parts listings from the big name suppliers however only one backing plate is ever listed. Even the AH original parts list only offers one example - part no. AHB5406. Perhaps Rick has a one-off special. RichC has provided a response (below) complete with photo that I shall use to update the forum for others that may pass this way in the future. Thanks again. On 7 September 2010 18:30, Rich C wrote: > Alan, > > Your escutcheon is the right one for the adjustable wheel and locking > collar. There should be no triangular backing plate in behind at all. The 3 > tabs must be splayed and bent outboard and curve around to secure the ring > into position against the back side of the dash. > > Rich _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/bluehealey _) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 12:32:43 2010 From: Magnus Karlsson To: Healey Lista Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 20:08:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Syncro problem I have rebuilt a 3000 side shifter gearbox that was in a very good condition. I renewed all bearings and the syncro rings. All gears were very good with virtually no wear at all. When I first test drove the car everything worked very well. Gradually the syncro on 2nd gear stopped working, when down shifting from 3rd gear, until there was no syncro action at all. The strange thing is that the syncro on 2nd gear works fine when up shifting from 1st. Syncro on 3rd and 4th work fine. I have taken the box apart and changed everything that has to do with 2nd gear. Syncro ring, 1:st gear assembly, 2nd gear, 1st / 2nd selector fork and selector shaft. The problem stays the same with very good syncro between 1st and 2nd and no syncro when down shifting from 3rd to 2nd. I would be very thankful for any advise leading to the solution of this problem as it4s kind of driving me mad at the moment. TIA Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 12:33:24 2010 From: "Freese, Ken" To: Dave Porter , "'R. Price Lindsay'" Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:17:37 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise If one looks in the archives, I also was looking for a source of a noise. I used the stethoscope, etc. and was sure the noise was from the diff. I swapped out the 3rd member and the noise was still there. Eventually the transmission got a going over and new overdrive bearings got rid of the noise. Ken BJ8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 12:43:44 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: "R. Price Lindsay" Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 11:27:54 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear End/transmission Noise Could be loss of pre-load on the pinion bearings. bs R. Price Lindsay wrote: > For the past several trips out in my BJ 8 I have noticed a slight "humming" > sound when I step on the gas slightly, ie put a small load on the drive train. > I have done this in 3rd and 4th gears and the sound seems to be the same. > Also, it is higher pitched at higher speeds. We put it up on a lift and the > sound seemed to come from the rear end. I also also noticed oil seeping from > one of the rear bearing seals. When I took the car to a local mechanic he told > me it's the transmission. > > Before i start tearing something apart I have to ask if it is likely to be the > transmission? Could the sound travel to the rear end and if so, wouldn't it > sound different in different gears? > > Thank you so much for any insight you can provide. > > Price Lindsay > > 67 BJ 8 > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 13:13:12 2010 From: Peter Schauss To: Magnus Karlsson Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:51:02 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Syncro problem Magnus, Where did you get your syncro rings? I had a similar experience when I rebuilt my gearbox 9+ years ago. At the time, I bought syncro rings from AH spares since they had the lowest price. (At the time, the US $ was a bit stronger than it is now.) I have since learned that I would have had better luck with "uprated" syncro rings which are now available. Someday I may make another attempt at rebuilding my gearbox, but in the meantime, I just double clutch when I downshift into second. When I started the whole process I had to double clutch when downshifting into third gear so I consider the present condition of my gearbox a great improvement. Peter Schauss 1963 BJ7 On Wed, Sep 8, 2010 at 2:08 PM, Magnus Karlsson wrote: > I have rebuilt a 3000 side shifter gearbox that was in a very good condition. > I renewed all bearings and the syncro rings. All gears were very good with > virtually no wear at all. When I first test drove the car everything worked > very well. Gradually the syncro on 2nd gear stopped working, when down > shifting from 3rd gear, until there was no syncro action at all. The strange > thing is that the syncro on 2nd gear works fine when up shifting from 1st. > Syncro on 3rd and 4th work fine. I have taken the box apart and changed > everything that has to do with 2nd gear. Syncro ring, 1:st gear assembly, 2nd > gear, 1st / 2nd selector fork and selector shaft. The problem stays the same > with very good syncro between 1st and 2nd and no syncro when down shifting > from 3rd to 2nd. I would be very thankful for any advise leading to the > solution of this problem as it4s kind of driving me mad at the moment. > > TIA > Magnus Karlsson _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 13:14:14 2010 From: David Nock To: Magnus Karlsson Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:51:59 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Syncro problem There are a couple of syncros available and one of them is total crap. I had one years ago on a restoration that the car never got the body installed and the syncros started going bad. So my bet is you installed the less expensive syncros that run about $120.00 a set and not the ones that are $320.00 a set of three. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Sep 8, 2010, at 11:08 AM, Magnus Karlsson wrote: > I have rebuilt a 3000 side shifter gearbox that was in a very good > condition. > I renewed all bearings and the syncro rings. All gears were very > good with > virtually no wear at all. When I first test drove the car > everything worked > very well. Gradually the syncro on 2nd gear stopped working, when down > shifting from 3rd gear, until there was no syncro action at all. > The strange > thing is that the syncro on 2nd gear works fine when up shifting > from 1st. > Syncro on 3rd and 4th work fine. I have taken the box apart and > changed > everything that has to do with 2nd gear. Syncro ring, 1:st gear > assembly, 2nd > gear, 1st / 2nd selector fork and selector shaft. The problem stays > the same > with very good syncro between 1st and 2nd and no syncro when down > shifting > from 3rd to 2nd. I would be very thankful for any advise leading to > the > solution of this problem as it4s kind of driving me mad at the moment. > > TIA > Magnus Karlsson > > > www.concourshealeys.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 14:12:23 2010 From: "James Sailer" To: "Healey List" Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 13:55:56 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Keeping a Healey, and a hissing oil filler cap Hello Team, I recently inherited maintenance-duty for my late father's '66 BJ8. By and large, it's in good enough condition to just require regular cleaning, fluid checks & replacements, lubrication, etc, but I'm just starting to stumble up the learning curve as to how to keep the beauty in tip-top shape. The ridiculous amount of Healey-maintenance literature my father amassed should probably help at least a little... However, recently there has been a hissing sound coming from the engine, which builds up slowly after starting the engine, continues while running, and slowly dissipates after shut-down. I've isolated it to the oil-filler cap, which is a quick-release style (opposed to the cable-attached cap), and pressing down on the cap while the engine's running dampens the sound a little; oil levels are perfect. My question is what needs to be done about this: cap/seal replacement, or could this be a symptom of a deeper problem that needs to be checked up on? Best, Logan Sailer '66 BJ8 ><((((:> ><((((:> `7.88.74/`7.8.74/`7... ><((((:> ><((((:> ><((((:> ><((((:> _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 14:13:17 2010 From: "J. Scott Morris" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 12:57:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Parts for BJ8 or others Hi Barrie; Yes, I would be interested in getting a list of what you have available. Besides my own interest, if it is ok & provided the list is not too big, I will include it in the next monthly British Car listing I do up and put on the BSCC-Hamilton web site as well as emailed to over 100 LBC people. See http://www.bsccweb.com/Newpages/Classified/Cars1.pdf for the current list. As an aside, your British Car Cottage Industries website at http://www.britcot.com has quite a list of interesting small businesses serving the LBC market. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives --- On Wed, 9/8/10, Barrie Robinson wrote: << I have a box of parts left over from my restoring a BJ8 days. It includes a square full pump, several L 691 lenses, seat belts, crank gaskets, etc etc. Some new, some used but in good nick. If anyone is interested I can send a list. Regards, Barrie Robinson barrie@look.ca 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 in great nick, Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm www.britcot.com >> _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 21:48:53 2010 From: Mark J Bradakis To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 21:31:10 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net hiccups Yes, the lists have been acting funny today. There was a loss of connectivity to the world for about 24 hours, so email was delayed and web pages were unavailable. I do apologize for the inconvenience. mjb. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 01:04:07 2010 From: Oudesluys To: James Sailer Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 08:35:32 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keeping a Healey, and a hissing oil filler cap Increased crankcase pressure! This should not happen as there should be some form of crank case ventilation present. Increased crankcase pressure is generally caused by excessive piston blow by, which means worn piston rings, pistons or bores or all three of them. Does it burn oil, i.e. blue smoke? You do not mention oil leaks from the rear crank seal. I wonder if this has been modified in the past to accept a modern seal instead of the more or less open spiral "seal". This could also be the problem as now there will be less opportunity to get rid of the blow by gases. If this is the case you have to increase the crankcase ventilation. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 01:59:28 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:46:04 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Hello, I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the 100 engine. The engine is filled with run-in oil. Many thanks, Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 02:00:07 2010 From: healeyguy@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 03:45:19 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keeping a Healey, and a hissing oil filler cap Logan You didn't mention if the normal T fitting for the crank case breather/valve cover/air filter is used on the top of the valve cover. Most valve covers with the quick-release style or hinged caps are aluminum. Many aluminum covers don't have the T fitting. If so this would account for the excessive pressure in the crankcase. Another assumption on my part. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: James Sailer To: Healey List Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 9:55 am Subject: [Healeys] Keeping a Healey, and a hissing oil filler cap Hello Team, I recently inherited maintenance-duty for my late father's '66 BJ8. By and large, it's in good enough condition to just require regular cleaning, fluid checks & replacements, lubrication, etc, but I'm just starting to stumble up the learning curve as to how to keep the beauty in tip-top shape. The ridiculous amount of Healey-maintenance literature my father amassed should probably help at least a little... However, recently there has been a hissing sound coming from the engine, which builds up slowly after starting the engine, continues while running, and slowly dissipates after shut-down. I've isolated it to the oil-filler cap, which is a quick-release style (opposed to the cable-attached cap), and pressing down on the cap while the engine's running dampens the sound a little; oil levels are perfect. My question is what needs to be done about this: cap/seal replacement, or could this be a symptom of a deeper problem that needs to be checked up on? Best, Logan Sailer _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 02:15:52 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:57:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? Hello, A fellow 100 owner here in Poland had his car just restored, but the car overheats madly in traffic, so bad, that the 1st carb boils petrol (so he described). He has a new aluminum radiator, rebuild engine, old head. The temp goes to 230F, when cursing out of town it goes down to 190-200F. Any thoughts anyone? Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 02:32:39 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 16:12:54 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Tadek - Idle first for about 15- 30 minutes watching oil pressure and temp. Expect the temp to get close to boiling. If the car does peg the temp meter within 10 minutes or less, you should shut it down and cool off before running again. The initial start up the engine will run hot. Make sure you have ventilation. Use this warm up time to do the initial setting on the carbs. After initial run in, you can run on the road for 800 km/ 500 miles, keeping motor below 2,000 rpms at all times. After the first ~ 200 miles, you can probably go up to 2,500 rpms, but only AFTER the motor has warmed up. Alan On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 3:46 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). > > I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the 100 > engine. > > The engine is filled with run-in oil. > > Many thanks, > > Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 03:06:15 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: James Sailer Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 16:39:47 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keeping a Healey, and a hissing oil filler cap Hi Logan - Welcome to the list. It is nice to see you here. There should be a "T" located on the back of the valve cover - this T is the "breather" for the engine, allowing the crankcase to bleed off excess pressure as it warms up. You can see the T piece plus the hose connections on the earlier tricarb motor here (the thing located just behind the rear [second] valve cover bolt): http://members.home.nl/rgubbels/engine3carb.jpg The crankcase breather comes out of the rear tappet cover (on right rear side of engine - you can see it in this picture) and connects to the T piece on top of the valve cover, then connects by hose to the rear carburettor on your BJ8. It all is supposed to vent into the rear carb air filter. If your car has an aftermarket valve cover, check to see if it has the T piece on the back like in the picture. If it does not have this piece, then that is your problem. It's nothing to be too worried about, but is annoying and will result in excessive oil usage and a very dirty oily engine. Now your father may have installed a PCV valve on the crankcase, which is a one way valve used on new cars to hold off excess pressure built up in the crankcase. If you see a round cylindrical can, about 2" in diameter and 2" in length (most likely gold or silver colored) mounted somewhere around the rear tappet cover, you may have a clogged PCV valve. In this case just remove it, take it to your local Napa auto parts, and have them replace it with something similar. Alan On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 3:55 AM, James Sailer wrote: > Hello Team, > > I recently inherited maintenance-duty for my late father's '66 BJ8. By and > large, it's in good enough condition to just require regular cleaning, fluid > checks & replacements, lubrication, etc, but I'm just starting to stumble up > the learning curve as to how to keep the beauty in tip-top shape. The > ridiculous amount of Healey-maintenance literature my father amassed should > probably help at least a little... > > However, recently there has been a hissing sound coming from the engine, which > builds up slowly after starting the engine, continues while running, and > slowly dissipates after shut-down. I've isolated it to the oil-filler cap, > which is a quick-release style (opposed to the cable-attached cap), and > pressing down on the cap while the engine's running dampens the sound a > little; oil levels are perfect. My question is what needs to be done about > this: cap/seal replacement, or could this be a symptom of a deeper problem > that needs to be checked up on? > > Best, > Logan Sailer > > '66 BJ8 >><((((:> ><((((:> `7.88.74/`7.8.74/`7... ><((((:> > ><((((:> ><((((:> > ><((((:> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 03:22:46 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 16:49:49 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? Tadek - First try using a 180 or 160 deg thermostat, these cars originally did not use 190+ thermostats. When the engine was rebuilt, they possibly did not clean out all the rust and scale in the water jacket. I would try power flushing the engine block to start. The 100 head is also prone to cracking (I think between 2 and 3) and this may be your problem here. It could be an indication of an over-shaved head. The water jacket in the head is at an angle, so when you "plane" the head too much, the water jacket on the head no longer matches up cleanly with the water jacket in the engine. Do a compression check. If all four cylinders are high (i.e. something over 9:1 compression) then the head is shaved too much. If a couple of the cylinders are running low compression (you have to do the test when the engine is hot), then you probably have a crack in the head. I suspect a crack in the head. :( Also... the exhaust header should be Jet-Hot coated :). Both my 100 and A90 can spend all day in traffic, the 100 motor runs much cooler than the 6 cyl motor, so something is definitely wrong. Alan On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 3:57 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > A fellow 100 owner here in Poland had his car just restored, but the car > overheats madly in traffic, so bad, that the 1st carb boils petrol (so he > described). He has a new aluminum radiator, rebuild engine, old head. The > temp goes to 230F, when cursing out of town it goes down to 190-200F. > > Any thoughts anyone? > > > Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 04:46:28 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 06:19:23 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Syncro problem Since I have been driving my car (600mi) I used first gear for about a week until I realized how much more pleasurable it is to not use it at all. As far as down shifting into 2nd, I only do that when coming to a stop sign, if at all cause my breaks seem to do that just fine. Sounds like a good source for whip lash if your going any faster. Not the answer your looking for but another way of looking at your driving style. Maybe the convertibles are geared a little differently than the roadsters. I am using the Moss syncros from about 4years ago and so far no problems noticed. Just my 2 cents, Mark Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 05:05:46 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Alan Seigrist Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 12:41:02 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Not only keep the revs down, but also use a feather light foot on the throttle for the first few hundred miles!!!! Change the oil after 500 miles and check the cooling system for debris in the radiator. If debris shows up clean out the radiator seperately by back flushing, refit, add caustic soda or a can of radiator cleaner to the cooling system, run the car for about an hour, drain and back flush engine and radiator until clean water only comes out. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 05:41:49 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: Mark LaPierre Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 21:32:26 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Syncro problem Downchanging sounds fantastic in a Healey. But brake system rebuilds cost so much less.... And that doesn't really matter whether you have a side change/ centre shift/ whatever SCCR or STD ratio gearbox. Rule 1. Brake first. Rule 2. Change down Rule 3. Always drive into a corner in this order, irrespective of road or track. Everywhere. The late, great, Peter Hopwood wrote an article about racing a Healey, and his experiences on the road and track. It was called (something very much like) "how I learnt to drive faster by driving slower", when he owned a Healey 3000. Peter (many years later) became the Australian Sportscar Champion, and in a Healey 3000, at the very end of his career, was the only man to pass Denis Welch at Bathurst in 1998. And despite Denis winning every race in 1998, Peter set the fastest lap time back in 1998. Peters message back in about 1972? In a paragraph? Brake as hard as you can, look after your gearbox, then - only then - change down, then accelerate as hard as you can under power - as hard as you can - through a corner - to maximize straight line speed. Obviously there was more than that. But changing down like an F1 driver in a Healey is a recipe for disaster. That's what brakes are for - to slow you down! Brake. Then change down. Not the other way round Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 09/09/2010, at 8:19 PM, "Mark LaPierre" wrote: > Since I have been driving my car (600mi) I used first gear for > about a week until I realized how much > more pleasurable it is to not use it at all. As far as down > shifting into 2nd, I only do that when coming > to a stop sign, if at all cause my breaks seem to do that just > fine. Sounds like a good source for whip lash if your going any > faster. > > Not the answer > your looking for but another way of looking at your driving > style. Maybe the convertibles are geared > a little differently than the roadsters. I am using the Moss > syncros from about 4years ago and so far no > problems _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 05:54:18 2010 From: "T+ B Willig" To: "'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'" Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 13:47:40 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Hi Tadek, be very careful when you check the engine temperature. Remember that the temperature sender sits in the radiator. I encountered a problem when I started my overhauled engine for the first time and I did not realize that the thermostat did not open.....I focused on the temperature instrument -all was cool- and was not aware that the engine itself was very very hot. My advice is to check the temperature of the radiator top hose with your hand during the first startup, so you can be sure that all is well. Regards Thomas Willig -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com] Gesendet: Donnerstag, 9. September 2010 10:13 An: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Tadek - Idle first for about 15- 30 minutes watching oil pressure and temp. Expect the temp to get close to boiling. If the car does peg the temp meter within 10 minutes or less, you should shut it down and cool off before running again. The initial start up the engine will run hot. Make sure you have ventilation. Use this warm up time to do the initial setting on the carbs. After initial run in, you can run on the road for 800 km/ 500 miles, keeping motor below 2,000 rpms at all times. After the first ~ 200 miles, you can probably go up to 2,500 rpms, but only AFTER the motor has warmed up. Alan On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 3:46 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). > > I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the 100 > engine. > > The engine is filled with run-in oil. > > Many thanks, > > Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 05:55:23 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Chris Dimmock Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 13:55:29 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Syncro problem Learning how to double declutch will help as well. It will save the synchro's and if performed correctly can make downshifts quicker and smoother. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 07:42:37 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Oudesluys Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 06:32:04 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Hmmm ... this should be an interesting topic. I haven't built enough engines to offer definitive advice, but it seems the contemporary recommendation--for rebuilt older engines with flat tappets, anyway--is to start the engine and run it at 1,500-2,000 rpm for 15-20 minutes to bed in the cam (tune mixture, timing, etc. for rpms and smoothness while it's running). The idea is to provide plentiful oil flow to the cam and tappets during initial bedding-in. Would this not apply to a Healey engine? Some say 'break it in like you're going to drive it,' like my father who has rebuilt numerous auto and other engines (corollary: 'break it in slow, get a slow car'). He doesn't worry about the cam. I know for aircraft (piston) engines break-in is critical--it's universally recommended to run the engine at high power settings, full rich at lower altitudes and no short hops for the first 50 hours or so. To not do so is to almost guarantee that the rings won't seat. I would recommend adding some sort of ZDDP additive to the oil--at the least, it can't hurt and it may help protect the cam during break-in. Before you start the engine, spin it over with the plugs out until you get an oil pressure reading on the gauge (hopefully, you used copious amounts of assembly lube). Also, it's recommended to run at varying speeds and loads for at least the first few hundred miles so you don't build a low ridge on the cylinder walls. I don't think most new cars even state a breakin procedure--the machining and clearances are so much more precise it isn't necessary. bs ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 07:54:23 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" , Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 09:45:48 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Tadek, I'm already reading a few contrasting suggestions here regarding your initial engine start up. Here is what I always do: 1. fill the cooling system with water rather than antifreeze mixture. That way if you find a leak in anything, all you're losing is water. proper antifreeze or coolant mixture can be added later. 2. make sure the engine oil has an adequate amount of ZDDP additive for the important initial running in of the cam lobes and cam followers 3. temporarily remove spark plugs and spin the engine on the starter motor until you have oil pressure showing at the gauge. That ensures the oil filter is full and oil has completely circulated throughout the engine. This may take 30 to 40 seconds of spinning until the gauge needle shows pressure. 4. install spark plugs, pull out choke cable and ensure fuel is present. 5. make sure you are in a well ventilated area with plenty of fresh air. 6. start engine and watch closely for any leaks, oil or water. 7. bring the idle speed up to about 1500 to 1800 RPM and maintain this fast idle speed. This is very important to allow the initial bedding in of the cam lobes and cam followers. 8. maintain this fast idle for at least 15 minutes, checking the top hose and the temperature gauge to make sure that the thermostat has opened at the correct temperature. I always use a 165 degree F thermostat. If all is well with your cooling system the temperature reading during this time shouldn't go much over the thermostat rating. 9. during this fast idle running, initial mixture settings and balances can be performed on the carbs, checks can be done for exhaust leaks as joints heat up and expand, engine paints will start initial burn off and cure, etc. 10. after the 15 minute run, bring the idle speed down to about 900 RPM and then gently shut off, again checking for leaks, etc. 11. THE MOST IMPORTANT: go celebrate your achievement! Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" > Hello, > > I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). > > I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the 100 > engine. > > The engine is filled with run-in oil. > > Many thanks, > > Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 08:09:39 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Rich C' , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 16:10:01 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Rich, Many thanks! When do you change the oil? I am using Millers run-in oil for the startup.. Best, Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net] Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 3:46 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Tadek, I'm already reading a few contrasting suggestions here regarding your initial engine start up. Here is what I always do: 1. fill the cooling system with water rather than antifreeze mixture. That way if you find a leak in anything, all you're losing is water. proper antifreeze or coolant mixture can be added later. 2. make sure the engine oil has an adequate amount of ZDDP additive for the important initial running in of the cam lobes and cam followers 3. temporarily remove spark plugs and spin the engine on the starter motor until you have oil pressure showing at the gauge. That ensures the oil filter is full and oil has completely circulated throughout the engine. This may take 30 to 40 seconds of spinning until the gauge needle shows pressure. 4. install spark plugs, pull out choke cable and ensure fuel is present. 5. make sure you are in a well ventilated area with plenty of fresh air. 6. start engine and watch closely for any leaks, oil or water. 7. bring the idle speed up to about 1500 to 1800 RPM and maintain this fast idle speed. This is very important to allow the initial bedding in of the cam lobes and cam followers. 8. maintain this fast idle for at least 15 minutes, checking the top hose and the temperature gauge to make sure that the thermostat has opened at the correct temperature. I always use a 165 degree F thermostat. If all is well with your cooling system the temperature reading during this time shouldn't go much over the thermostat rating. 9. during this fast idle running, initial mixture settings and balances can be performed on the carbs, checks can be done for exhaust leaks as joints heat up and expand, engine paints will start initial burn off and cure, etc. 10. after the 15 minute run, bring the idle speed down to about 900 RPM and then gently shut off, again checking for leaks, etc. 11. THE MOST IMPORTANT: go celebrate your achievement! Rich Chrysler -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" > Hello, > > I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). > > I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the 100 > engine. > > The engine is filled with run-in oil. > > Many thanks, > > Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 08:24:44 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Bob Spidell' , 'Oudesluys' Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 16:19:54 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Well, It can certainly get interesting :-) BTW, I am using Millers run-in oil. Volvo 1800 engines (the B18/B20 series) are to be run initially at 2000-2500 rpm, otherwise the rings will not sit in and the camshaft could be ruined due to limited lubrication. Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 09:22:37 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 11:07:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? Tadek, I had a BJ8 not a 100 - but never had a heating problem. But I have had massive problems with building my MGB GT V8. Overheating was an enormous problem and here is the sequence of changes I made to solve it....it may help. And when I say overheating I mean, like your friend, boiling fuel in the carburettor! I already had a 14" 2,950 CFM electric fan installed 1) Had exhaust manifold and primary exhaust pipes ceramic coated - enormous improvement 2) Had engine tuned by someone who knew about Edelbrock (Weber) carbs - dropped temperature significantly. 3) Installed aluminium radiator - huge improvement - now engine runs "cool". Looking at your email I would go for tuning engine, checking your timing especially. Failing that then you have a long list of possibilities from thermostat, to blockage, to water pump, but for heaven's sake do not try "water wetter". At 03:57 AM 9/9/2010, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: >Hello, > >A fellow 100 owner here in Poland had his car just restored, but the car >overheats madly in traffic, so bad, that the 1st carb boils petrol (so he >described). He has a new aluminum radiator, rebuild engine, old head. The >temp goes to 230F, when cursing out of town it goes down to 190-200F. > >Any thoughts anyone? > > >Tadek >_______________________________________________ >Healeys@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie@look.ca Regards Barrie barrie@look.ca 705--721-9060 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 09:41:58 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:27:27 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Engine start procedure > Ok - this is more about the initial firing - than the "ok - its > running" question.. > Can I add 3 important things to the already comprehensive lists > offered? > 1. If you've just rebuilt your entire car, humour me, and remove > your engine to chassis strap, and the earth/ battery strap. Now fire > up your angle grinder, with a coarse grinding pad. Now grind off all > the lovely new paint on the chassis where these bolt on. > If you feel inclined, rub with some diaelectric grease. Otherwise, a > wipe of engine oil on fresh metal is fine.make sure you have a good, > clean earth!!! > 2. Now you can stop worrying about who will/ how will/ your > beautiful new paint get scratched. You just did it! > 3. Make sure you filled/ primed your oil filter. Don't wait to pump > it full. > And crack the oil pressure guage line behind your guage, and pack/ > wrap some paper handtowel there. Then when you crank the engine for > the first time, watch for when when the oil hits the paper, stop it, > tighten the line, and do it again. Ie bleed the line. Before it > fires. Ie plugs out. > You can also prime the oil lines in the block - search the archives. > And as Rich said - once it fires, has oil pressure, and runs - > RELAX, and clean up - and enjoy!!! > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 09/09/2010, at 11:45 PM, "Rich C" > wrote: > >> Tadek, >> >> I'm already reading a few contrasting suggestions here regarding >> your initial engine start up. Here is what I always do: >> >> Rich Chrysler >> >> From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" >>> Hello, >>> I am close to put the engine into my BN2 - at last :-). >>> I am wondering what's the recommended procedure for running in the >>> 100 >>> engine. >>> >>> The engine is filled with run-in oil. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 10:00:10 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Chris Dimmock' , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 17:59:54 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? :-) I know I am cursing the mistake ;-) Many thanks Chris and all - I will forward all your comments... As always the list is a fantastic resource! Best, Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey@gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 5:45 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? Here's a few thoughts.... I'd be cursing out of town too... 1. Check the thermostat. Is it not operating? 2. Check the radiator. New? Yes, but is it already blocked from crap in the block/ head? 3. What is the capacity of the new aluminium radiator? Everyone knows the best way to reduce weight in a radiator is to make a smaller one. ie less water. That's the REAL advantage of an aluminium radiator. Make it hold less water. The weight is the water - not the vessel holding it!!! Make it smaller capacity - Then it weighs less. It's not about the minimal weight of an alloy version. Aluminium radiator = smaller capacity = less water = less weight. Fine on a race car, not so good on a road car. 4. I think fuel boiling is a symptom. But as already suggested, wrap/ ceramic coat exhaust. Are heat sheilds already in place??? 5. Air deflectors -std - already fitted? 6. NEVER put a fan on the outside of a radiator in a Healey. Not if you want it to run at optimal temperature (180 - 185). It blocks too much air flow. 7. If all else fails - redistrip/ chemistrip the block. Sent from my iPhone On 09/09/2010, at 5:57 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > A fellow 100 owner here in Poland had his car just restored, but the > car > overheats madly in traffic, so bad, that the 1st carb boils petrol > (so he > described). He has a new aluminum radiator, rebuild engine, old > head. The > temp goes to 230F, when cursing out of town it goes down to _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 10:12:15 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Healey List'" Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 10:01:22 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] semi off topic Just had a call from a friend who has a 6 cyl. Austin engine from a 1952 Jensen. It has a truck like gear box and a Laycock O/D unit. Anyone familiar with this unit? dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 10:56:37 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:54:16 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? FWIW, I have a similar problem with our BN2--we can't get the front carb float valve to seal up (may be contributing to our fuel pump runon problem). Symptoms are: fuel dribbling out of jet and, occasionally, will spit out the overflow tube. Our problem doesn't seem to be related to engine temperature, but I'll be watching the responses. bs Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello, > > A fellow 100 owner here in Poland had his car just restored, but the car > overheats madly in traffic, so bad, that the 1st carb boils petrol (so he > described). He has a new aluminum radiator, rebuild engine, old head. The > temp goes to 230F, when cursing out of town it goes down to 190-200F. > > Any thoughts anyone? > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 11:40:25 2010 From: "Dr. C. Rubino" To: "healeylist" Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:33:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil Am about to change the oil in the gear box and was going to put in Redline MTL-90, 20W50. Currently have MT-90 and don't see a difference. Talked to a guy today who knows his way around cars and he is recommending Valvoline Racing 20W50. He recently put this in a Triumph 250 and the owner is thrilled with the results shifting and with the overdrive performance. Any thoughts about this? Carl BN-4 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 11:41:02 2010 From: "warthodson@aol.com" To: sbyers@ec.rr.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 13:39:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ebay BJ8 Steve, HBJ8L25732 for sale on ebay. Do you have a record of it? See item #130429088203 Gary Hodson _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 11:55:33 2010 From: "Peter Svilans" To: Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 13:49:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] semi off-topic Jensens acquired the four-litre Austin engine as an appeasement from Leonard Lord to Richard Jensen, for copying closely the Jensen PW sedan to produce their very similar looking Austin Sheerline sedan in 1948. The motor was used in the Jensen PW sedan & drophead (PW for Post-War, intended as a Bentley-fighter), as well as in the low, sleek, aluminum-bodied, 100 mph Jensen Interceptor. The 3,993 cc six-cylinder motor was intended to pull the heavy luxury Sheerline sedan, and so put out a strong (for 1949) 130 bhp at 4,000 rpm. It was based on the 1939 3.5 litre Austin "K" truck motor, and used a single downdraft Zenith Stromberg carb. Later versions used in the Austin Princess had optional triple SU carbs. The Princess survived until 1968 in mostly the wedding and funeral trade. The motors were coupled to four speed column shift gearboxes (which didn't do as well as three-speeders) and a bit later got overdrive. Too bad the Jensen didn't survive along with the motor. Best Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 12:29:56 2010 From: "Peter Svilans" To: Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:11:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] semi off-topic You can weld up bullet holes...... (sniff) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 12:41:55 2010 From: David Nock To: "Dr. C. Rubino" Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:30:45 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil This will raise as much controversy as brake fluid does. The original spec was for a 30 wt non detergent oil which is a little hard to find. At that time there wasnt a light weight gear oil. Now there are all sorts of oils available. You will want to stay with the correct viscosity oil. Now engine oil and transmission oils are measured differently for their viscosity ratings. A 75/80 wt gear oil is the same viscosity as a 30 wt engine oil. Red Line oils make a RedLIne MTL which is a75/80 wt gear made specificly for Manual Transmissions. You also can use the MT-90 but it is actuall a little heavy for the original specs. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Sep 9, 2010, at 9:33 AM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote: > Am about to change the oil in the gear box and was going to put in > Redline > MTL-90, 20W50. Currently have MT-90 and don't see a difference. > > Talked to a guy today who knows his way around cars and he is > recommending > Valvoline Racing 20W50. He recently put this in a Triumph 250 and > the owner is > thrilled with the results shifting and with the overdrive performance. > > Any thoughts about this? > > Carl > BN-4 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 12:42:38 2010 From: "Jerry Costanzo" To: Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:32:22 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] semi off-topic Since I was working on an Interceptor last night, why the switch from this 4 liter engine to the Chrysler Hemi engines? Going for the performance boost? Jerry _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 12:54:33 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:45:43 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tranny Oil In a message dated 9/9/10 11:20:45 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > Talked to a guy today who knows his way around cars and he is > recommending > Valvoline Racing 20W50. He recently put this in a Triumph 250 and the > owner is > thrilled with the results shifting and with the overdrive performance. > Seems to me that I read somewhere that Triumph specified a different weight of oil for trannies than is true of Healeys -- keep in mind that Healeys share the oil with the overdrive and use it for hydraulic actuation as well as lubrication; that might make a difference. That having been said, no reason Valvoline Racing Oil wouldn't work, since it works in the engine. I use MTL-90 in mine (since I buy it for my MGA race car) and like the performance. Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 12:57:28 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Jerry Costanzo'" , "'Healey List'" Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:57:37 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] semi off-topic I think Briggs Cunningham took a page from the Allard play book.. frogeye@porterscustom.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 12:32 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] semi off-topic Since I was working on an Interceptor last night, why the switch from this 4 liter engine to the Chrysler Hemi engines? Going for the performance boost? Jerry _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 13:09:23 2010 From: "Don" To: "'Dr. C. Rubino'" , "'healeylist'" Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 13:02:39 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil Carl, I used Valvoline Racing 20-50w for numerous years but a couple years back changed to Redline MT-90. The Redline seems to provide a smoother shift but no big change. After all the changes made to the oils in the last few years I decided to go synthetic and use Redline 10-40w in the engine too. I have heard the MTL-90 is better suited for our transmission but until I have to change it again it seems to be doing the job. HTH, Don 57' BN4 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 10:33 AM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil Am about to change the oil in the gear box and was going to put in Redline MTL-90, 20W50. Currently have MT-90 and don't see a difference. Talked to a guy today who knows his way around cars and he is recommending Valvoline Racing 20W50. He recently put this in a Triumph 250 and the owner is thrilled with the results shifting and with the overdrive performance. Any thoughts about this? Carl BN-4 _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 13:09:58 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 12:07:49 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating so hard that the carbs boil? Forgot to add my question: anyone had any luck using Grose Jets to solve this--or similar--problem? I know, GJs are reputed to have had QA problems, but I've had them in my BJ8 forever and they've worked perfectly. bs Bob Spidell wrote: > FWIW, I have a similar problem with our BN2--we can't get the front > carb float valve to seal up (may be contributing to our fuel pump > runon problem). Symptoms are: fuel dribbling out of jet and, > occasionally, will spit out the overflow tube. > Our problem doesn't seem to be related to engine temperature, but I'll > be watching the responses. > > bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 13:41:26 2010 From: "Peter Svilans" To: Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 15:41:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] semi off-topic The original post-war Jensen Interceptor with aluminum body was in production until 1957. Meanwhile, the Jensen 541 with a fiberglass body was introduced in 1953, still using the Austin motor but with triple carbs. It was the first British production car with 4-wheel disc brakes. In 1960 the 541-S was the first British car with seat belts standard. The old 130 hp Austin motor was no longer powerful enough by 1960, so the answer lay in Chrysler's big-block 5.9 litre engine with Torqueflite transmission. A new chassis was needed to handle the 305 bhp, so the slant-eyed fiberglass-bodied Jensen CV-8 was introduced in 1962. A year and a bit later, the engine was replaced by the 6.3 litre (383 cu in) motor with 330 bhp. In 1966 Vignale in Turin Italy turned the CV-8 into the new Interceptor. In 1971 the Interceptor SP (for Six Pack) was introduced with three twin-choke Holleys and 385 bhp, recognizable by its louvered bonnet and vinyl roof. Jensen lasted until May, 1976 Best, Peter _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 13:56:31 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Dave Porter Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 21:56:07 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] semi off topic This engine is a very sturdy unit of 4 liter capacity. It was used in the Austin Sheerline/Princess, later Jensen PW, Jensen (early) Interceptor, Jensen 541, 541R and 541S and it was also used various other cars, trucks and perhaps tractors. They can be fitted with 1, 2 or 3 SU's and the top range delivered about 150BHP. The gearbox used was a Jaguar Moss box, I believe, fitted with OD. I may be wrong but dimensionally it may be similar to the 3 liter as fitted to the AH. It is a rather lazy but very strong unit with bags of torque that will last for ever if properly maintained. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 14:24:56 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'David Nock'" , "'Dr. C. Rubino'" Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 16:17:47 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil Tractor Supply Company has it and so does Grainger http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VALVOLINE-Valvoline-1UBY5 Advance Auto Parts has it part number 55063 Auto Zone Carries it their part number 60142 John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 2:31 PM To: Dr. C. Rubino Cc: healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Gear box oil This will raise as much controversy as brake fluid does. The original spec was for a 30 wt non detergent oil which is a little hard to find. At that time there wasnt a light weight gear oil. Now there are all sorts of oils available. You will want to stay with the correct viscosity oil. Now engine oil and transmission oils are measured differently for their viscosity ratings. A 75/80 wt gear oil is the same viscosity as a 30 wt engine oil. Red Line oils make a RedLIne MTL which is a75/80 wt gear made specificly for Manual Transmissions. You also can use the MT-90 but it is actuall a little heavy for the original specs. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 14:25:40 2010 From: John Harper To: Oudesluys Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 21:25:00 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 4 Litre Engine - was - semi off topic Kees I don't believe that there was much in common between the six cylinder 'Austin' engine and the later 'BMC' 3 litre. However there is a strong link between the 4 litre and the A90 Atlantic/A-H 100 engine. The four cylinder is largely a cut down 6 cylinder with many common parts such as pistons, con rods, valves etc. There is a history in one of Geoff Healey's book explaining that there was a need for a 4 cylinder during WWII that 'Austin' developed but it did not go into production then; but it did after the war to give the old pre war Austin 12 respectable performance but with virtually no body change. The engine went through a few developments fitted to the A70 Hampshire and Hereford. It then went to the same bore as the 4 litre as the 2.6 litre that we are all familiar with. The engine was also fitted to commercial vehicles for many years in petrol form. The diesel version was another development fitted into London Taxis and various other vehicles. Regards > This engine is a very sturdy unit of 4 liter capacity. >It was used in the Austin Sheerline/Princess, later Jensen PW, Jensen >(early) Interceptor, Jensen 541, 541R and 541S and it was also used >various other cars, trucks and perhaps tractors. >They can be fitted with 1, 2 or 3 SU's and the top range delivered about >150BHP. >The gearbox used was a Jaguar Moss box, I believe, fitted with OD. >I may be wrong but dimensionally it may be similar to the 3 liter as >fitted to the AH. >It is a rather lazy but very strong unit with bags of torque that will >last for ever if properly maintained. >Kees Oudesluijs >NL > >[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a >name of coudesluijs.vcf] >_______________________________________________ >Healeys@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah@jharper.demon.co.uk -- John Harper _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 15:29:02 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz , Bob Spidell Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 05:20:34 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Tadek - sorry should have clarified that idle should be set at 1,500 rpm for first start up. My email was confusing. Hope you used cam / tappet lube/paste with high Zinc content - critical for proper bedding in. Chris Dimmock's suggestion for bleeding oil pressure guage is a good one! On 9/9/10, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Well, > > It can certainly get interesting :-) > > BTW, I am using Millers run-in oil. > > Volvo 1800 engines (the B18/B20 series) are to be run initially at 2000-2500 > rpm, otherwise the rings will not sit in and the camshaft could be ruined > due to limited lubrication. > > Tadek > > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 15:58:33 2010 From: john doe To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:58:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] carpet set looking to brighten up the interior alittle who would you all say has the nicest producy for a bj8,is wilton will too expensive and is there a kit out there thanks,also the car is white over red with red interior would black carpenting look stupid _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 16:25:44 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "john doe" , Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 18:25:15 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] carpet set I use Heritage Upholstery's Karvel carpet. It's extremely close to the original, and their Red Karvel holds a raw edge as the original stuff did. Wool and nylon can fray and unravel along the edges. No binding should be done on Healey carpets as they aimed for the look of continuity. I'd suggest red over introducing another colour (as you mention black). See pictures I'm including. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "john doe" Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 5:58 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] carpet set > looking to brighten up the interior alittle who would you all say has the > nicest producy for a bj8,is wilton will too expensive and is there a kit > out there thanks,also the car is white over red with red interior would > black carpenting look stupid > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr07 010.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr07 005.jpg] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 19:11:02 2010 From: "Frank Magnusson" To: Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 20:10:26 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] gearbox oil Carl, I use a non detergent aviation oil in my BJ8 gearbox with great results. It is Aeroshell 80 which is a 40 wt non detergent oil. Frank On Sep 9, 2010, at 9:33 AM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote: > Am about to change the oil in the gear box and was going to put in > Redline > MTL-90, 20W50. Currently have MT-90 and don't see a difference. > > Talked to a guy today who knows his way around cars and he is > recommending > Valvoline Racing 20W50. He recently put this in a Triumph 250 and > the owner is > thrilled with the results shifting and with the overdrive performance. > > Any thoughts about this? > > Carl > BN-4 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 19:59:20 2010 From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Alan Seigrist" , "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 20:59:24 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine start procedure Only thing I would add is leave the hood (bonnet) off if you have not yet replaced it. 1. Engine will run cooler, much cooler in a Healey as the underhood air pressure/heat build up seems to be worse in these cars than most. 2. You will have better light and slightly better access to make the inevitable adjustments to carbs, timing, etc. 3. Worst case if the motor has to come back out one less thing to do remove/refit. I drove around for a while with the hood off after my rebuild to keep temps down as it was summer. Plus the newly painted block looked kind off cool anyway. Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 21:01:10 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 22:01:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Slippage !! Sorry to bomb the List, but the 'mind' IS the 1st thing to go !!! Would our resident HAM Operator drop me a note direct, please. Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 23:43:47 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 07:44:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Hello all, I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the state it was in: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed to the state it's in today: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with questions.. Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very original BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the last coat of paint with the gearbox): http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# The paint process looked like this: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# Now the small print: I am aware that: - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I wanted to insulate against heat - flasher is not original (looking for one) - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper one here) - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet - handbrake not insulated yet - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver before paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which although probably not correct, looks better to me :-) - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my previous one - few items are still missing Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 06:30:58 2010 From: Gilbert Gauthier To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:30:49 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... What can we say is a big bravo!!!! for this wonderful work . . Thank to you for sharing all these photos , sure that it can help others in the process of a restoration . Gilbert Gauthier Diligui au site internet http://www.austinhealeyquebec.com/ Le 10-09-10 ` 01:44, Tadeusz Malkiewicz a icrit : > Hello all, > > I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the > state it > was in: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed > > to the state it's in today: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# > > > Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with > questions.. > Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very > original > BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! > > > The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the > last > coat of paint with the gearbox): > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# > > The paint process looked like this: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# > > > Now the small print: I am aware that: > - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) > - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I > wanted > to insulate against heat > - flasher is not original (looking for one) > - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) > - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) > - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper > one > here) > - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) > - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet > - handbrake not insulated yet > - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver > before > paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which > although > probably not correct, looks better to me :-) > - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my > previous one > - few items are still missing > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk@cgocable.ca _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 06:39:08 2010 From: Tom Felts To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" , Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 8:35:53 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Slippage !! Ah---the truth from Ed at last. VBG VBG--------:) ---- "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" wrote: ============= Sorry to bomb the List, but the 'mind' IS the 1st thing to go !!! Would our resident HAM Operator drop me a note direct, please. Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 07:54:25 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 06:49:26 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Outstanding! bs Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, > > I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the state it > was in: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed > > to the state it's in today: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# > > > Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with questions.. > Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very original > BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! > > > The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the last > coat of paint with the gearbox): > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# > > The paint process looked like this: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# > > > Now the small print: I am aware that: > - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) > - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I wanted > to insulate against heat > - flasher is not original (looking for one) > - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) > - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) > - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper one > here) > - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) > - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet > - handbrake not insulated yet > - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver before > paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which although > probably not correct, looks better to me :-) > - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my previous one > - few items are still missing > > > Tadek > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 08:39:22 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Bob Spidell' Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:35:22 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Bob, May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 3:49 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Outstanding! bs Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, > > I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the state it > was in: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed > > to the state it's in today: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# > > > Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with questions.. > Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very original > BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! > > > The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the last > coat of paint with the gearbox): > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# > > The paint process looked like this: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# > > > Now the small print: I am aware that: > - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) > - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I wanted > to insulate against heat > - flasher is not original (looking for one) > - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) > - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) > - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper one > here) > - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) > - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet > - handbrake not insulated yet > - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver before > paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which although > probably not correct, looks better to me :-) > - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my previous one > - few items are still missing > > > Tadek > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 08:54:11 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'" , "'Bob Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:50:39 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Critical comments can also be good comments and they are warranted in this case. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 10:35 AM To: 'Bob Spidell' Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Bob, May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 3:49 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Outstanding! bs Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 09:09:39 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'" , "'Bob Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:09:15 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... BTW I just put a link to his photos on the Restoration section of the Links page on my site. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 10:35 AM To: 'Bob Spidell' Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Bob, May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 3:49 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Outstanding! bs _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 10:00:59 2010 From: Joe Smathers To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:00:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] After 5 year layup - Starting Help Thanks to Steve Byers, I have re-found the Healey list. After over 5 years of No Healey Fun due To an illness, it is time to get moving again. I have a 55 100 and a 60 3000 that have not been started for at least 5 years. Both car engines were In great shape at last start. The 55 has a blown transmission but that is another matter. My question from this great list is * How to go about the start up of these engines ? * I want to make sure that I do not damage either engine in the process. Both cars were running when put up, had gasoline in the tank and plenty of oil in the crankcase. Many thanks for the help and I will let you know how it goes. Best regards, Joe 1955 100 BN1 1960 3000 BT7 -- _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 10:10:54 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: John Sims Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:05:20 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Well, I'll tell ya, I looked but didn't see anything that I could criticize, except: 1) you're missing an engine 2) my work on my BN2 isn't nearly as perfect in a lot of instances (guess I didn't bug Rich enough) Where in the heck did you find the cloth-covered battery/starter cables???!!! bs John Sims wrote: > Critical comments can also be good comments and they are warranted in this > case. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > Bob, > > May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net] > Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 3:49 PM > To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... > > Outstanding! > > bs > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 10:16:10 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 18:16:03 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... This has been a lot of work in a very short span of time. The standard looks very good indeed with a good eye for detail. I have a few remarks: -The copper brake pipes, as you mentioned yourself. Copper pipes are prone to fatigue fracture. Better would have been to use steel pipes (I can hardly believe these are not available in Poland) or alternatively cunifer pipes, but these can be hard to get anywhere except in the UK. -The capillary line from the temperature gauge should be solidly fixed to the dashboard, bulkhead etc. to as near as possible to the gauge as possible to prevent vibration. The same applies to the engine side, fix the line solidly to the engine from the bulb to where it leaves the engine, leave 2or 3 loop holes of about 4-5" between the last fixations on the bulkhead and engine. These lines can be very prone to fatigue cracking. -I noticed you did not convert to front brake discs. Chapeau!!!!! Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 10:18:25 2010 From: John Harper To: Joe Smathers Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:17:39 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] After 5 year layup - Starting Help Joe With the 100 engine I would not be overly concerned about just starting it in the normal way after checking the obvious. Perhaps the fuel might have become a little 'waxy' but this should not cause a problem and if it flows OK it will clear as the tank is topped up with new fuel I had something similar but with an engine that stood for 12 years after it had done 43,00 miles. I had turned it over a couple of times but not as frequently as I should have done. The engine started OK but was running a little rough and I soon realised that the exhaust was 'puffy'. A couple of valves were sticking so a applied penetrating oil to the valve stems and then ran the engine. In a few minutes everything cleared and the engine ran sweetly. I changed the oil and filter twice, once when the engine had warmed up fully and then after about 100 miles because I was not sure what the penetrating oil might do. The engine has now done another 20 plus thousand miles and is fine. I don't believe that you have anything to be concerned about. Regards >My question from this great list is * How to go about the start up of these >engines ? * I want to make > >sure that I do not damage either engine in the process. Both cars were >running when put up, had > >gasoline in the tank and plenty of oil in the crankcase. -- John Harper _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 10:31:04 2010 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?= To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:31:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Big applause !! Great !! Josi Vicente Vargas Musmi Tel. (571) 321 3740 Cel. (57) 311 288 3401 Skype: jovivago www.musme.net Bogota, Colombia ________________________________ From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, September 10, 2010 12:44:19 AM Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Hello all, I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the state it was in: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed to the state it's in today: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with questions.. Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very original BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the last coat of paint with the gearbox): http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# The paint process looked like this: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# Now the small print: I am aware that: - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I wanted to insulate against heat - flasher is not original (looking for one) - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper one here) - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet - handbrake not insulated yet - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver before paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which although probably not correct, looks better to me :-) - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my previous one - few items are still missing Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 10:56:39 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Joe Smathers Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 18:56:33 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] After 5 year layup - Starting Help Before even trying to start, change the oil (also gearbox and rear axle), coolant, fuel, filters etc. Clean the points and plugs. Loosen the fan belt and carefully work loose the water pump as the impeller may have rusted to the carbon seal. Spray some penetrating oil in the carbs and check if the dash pots have oil in them. Check if the pistons move freely. If not dismantle, clean and rebuild. Check the fuel lines, the rubber may have perished. Lubricate the distributor. Add an extra fuel filter just before the carbs to catch dirt and rust in the fuel lines and tank.. Remove the plugs and liberally spray the cilinder/pistons first with penetrating oil and than a few drops of engine oil. Leave overnight. Try turning over the engine by hand with the plugs removed or put the car in 4th gear and push the car a little. When the engine does not turn, the rings and pistons are rusted to the cilinder walls and a rebuild is at hand. Disconnect the fuel pump from the wiring. If the engine does turn over spin, the engine on the starter (new battery) until you have oil pressure. Connect up the fuel pump and check if it is working (ticking), check for fuel leaks (lines, carbs) having the ignition on. If the pump keeps ticking these is either no fuel getting to the pump or there is a fuel leak between pump and engine, perhaps the float valves are stuck. If all OK, refit the plugs.You can try to start up the engine (outside), but keep the revs down!! To make it a bit easier inject some aether in your carbs. Watch out for backfire. It will belch oil and smoke for a while. When the engine is running check for leaks (oil, water) and tune your carbs if necessary. The clutch may be stuck. Usually this will loosen when the engine heats up, or start up the car in first gear with the clutch depressed and hope it will free itself. If not it is best to remove the gearbox and dismantle the clutch. After the engine is running OK, your first priority will be the brakes. After such a long time it is wise to at least inspect and perhaps rebuild/renew the brakes (and the hydraulic parts of the clutch). Replace the brake and clutch fluid. Replace the tires. Than solve all the little problems originating from not driving the car for a long time. Have fun, Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 11:09:44 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Oudesluys" , "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:03:33 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Kees, Perhaps you're not as familiar with the Hundred as I read your description of where and how to anchor the capillary line. Your description applies to later 6 cylinder cars. On the Hundred, as with the early 100/Six, the capillary line and temperature sensing bulb fastens into the header tank of the radiator, then the line travels along the inner right side of the shroud lip, fastened by small wrap over clips in 3 places along the side and a 4th along the back before it turns down exactly as Tadek shows and goes through a rubber grommet to the inside of the bulkhead. It then turns to the left (LH drive car) and goes along the inside of the bulkhead and turns once more along the outboard side of the steering column brace where it fastens with another wrap around clip along with the oil line. It then makes an S curve over to the left and enters the back side of the gauge. Front disc brakes on this lovely and accurate BN2? I should hope not. Properly set up drums need much less pedal effort for greater stopping ability in normal street driving. Discs advantages only show themselves in repeated hard braking such as in a race, but without a servo assist require more leg effort. Of course a properly set-up drum system needs occasional adjustment for optimum braking. I think it's called routing maintenance. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Oudesluys" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 12:16 PM To: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... > This has been a lot of work in a very short span of time. The standard > looks very good indeed with a good eye for detail. > I have a few remarks: > -The copper brake pipes, as you mentioned yourself. Copper pipes are > prone to fatigue fracture. Better would have been to use steel pipes (I > can hardly believe these are not available in Poland) or alternatively > cunifer pipes, but these can be hard to get anywhere except in the UK. > -The capillary line from the temperature gauge should be solidly fixed > to the dashboard, bulkhead etc. to as near as possible to the gauge as > possible to prevent vibration. The same applies to the engine side, fix > the line solidly to the engine from the bulb to where it leaves the > engine, leave 2or 3 loop holes of about 4-5" between the last fixations > on the bulkhead and engine. These lines can be very prone to fatigue > cracking. > -I noticed you did not convert to front brake discs. > > Chapeau!!!!! > > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name > of coudesluijs.vcf] > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 11:55:18 2010 From: Jack Feldman To: shop@justbrits.com Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:54:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] HAM? Ed, Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It is hard to find folks with two of my perversions. Can I be of assistance? Jack KA9HEL _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 11:57:35 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Rich C Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:57:33 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Rich, You are right that I did not know the sensor bulb is in the radiator, however the same principle of preventing vibration of the capillary line, especially near the bulb and the gauge, goes by fixing the line as near as possible to the gauge and bulb. I have a box full of to be repaired gauges because of leaking/cracked capillary lines to prove my point. If originality is your goal, yes you should fit drum brakes, and they can certainly work wel enough with proper maintainance. However I had my fair share of front drum brakes on a variety of cars and they nearly always were troublesome. OK, regular maintainance was one aspect, but try it on a VW Beetle, Landrover (very much so), Fiat etc. You just will not know in advance which way you will go when braking. The only cars it usually worked well on were DAF and Renault. Give me discs at all times, hardly ever had problems with those, even on LBC's. On my LandRover SIII I modified the front axle using disc brakes and calipers converted from a Mercedes van/truck, resulting in predictable braking with much less effort, using the original MBC. At the bottom line though Tadek has done a formidable job, in a very short time and has a lovely car to show for it. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 12:24:40 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=" To: "=?utf-8?B?SmFjayBGZWxkbWFu?=" ,shop@justbrits.com Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:20:01 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?HAM=3F?= Hate to ask, but what is the other? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:54 am Subject: [Healeys] HAM? To: Cc: Ed, Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It is hard to find folks with two of my perversions. Can I be of assistance? Jack KA9HEL _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 12:39:36 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Rich C' , 'Oudesluys' Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 20:38:31 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Disc brake conversion, was 100 BN2 almost done.... Rich, Kees, all, A small comment on the brake conversion: yes, the thought has crossed my mind, but I actually never thought of converting it to the Girling set-up, but rather to the Dunlop set-up used on the 100S. In my view (I may be wrong), this makes it a period type modification, not a modern upgrade. I even gotten as far as getting the calipers front & rear (for the square pads), but never really decided on the pistons. There is a company in UK (BG Developments) making modern piston conversions (DW resells them I believe), but if you multiply the cost by 8 it get's quite high. On top there is the rear disc problem (it was discussed on the British car forum some time ago). You can either get from DW or convert from Range Rover or BMW. Last, there are the brackets - these can be sourced from DW as well. All in all, it's a pretty expensive toy and to be honest, neither am I 100% convinced this is the way to go nor do I have the money now to purchase it all... But I would be grateful if anyone could share experiences of having such system, how does it work in practice or what's the stopping power in comparison to a pretty good drum system on the 100. BTW, before anyone asks, I have not managed to obtain the rear calipers with handbrake setup for 100S (I believe they are unique to the 100S) but rather Jaguar ones... :-) Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 7:04 PM To: Oudesluys; Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Kees, Perhaps you're not as familiar with the Hundred as I read your description of where and how to anchor the capillary line. Your description applies to later 6 cylinder cars. On the Hundred, as with the early 100/Six, the capillary line and temperature sensing bulb fastens into the header tank of the radiator, then the line travels along the inner right side of the shroud lip, fastened by small wrap over clips in 3 places along the side and a 4th along the back before it turns down exactly as Tadek shows and goes through a rubber grommet to the inside of the bulkhead. It then turns to the left (LH drive car) and goes along the inside of the bulkhead and turns once more along the outboard side of the steering column brace where it fastens with another wrap around clip along with the oil line. It then makes an S curve over to the left and enters the back side of the gauge. Front disc brakes on this lovely and accurate BN2? I should hope not. Properly set up drums need much less pedal effort for greater stopping ability in normal street driving. Discs advantages only show themselves in repeated hard braking such as in a race, but without a servo assist require more leg effort. Of course a properly set-up drum system needs occasional adjustment for optimum braking. I think it's called routing maintenance. Rich _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 12:42:15 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 20:43:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine A small question here..: My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is about 5mm gap: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc Anyone has any idea what the problem is? It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 13:12:05 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" , Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:11:35 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Looks like it's not all the way into the 180 degree offset slot. Yeah, I know, simply state the obvious. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 2:43 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine > A small question here..: > > My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount > the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is > about > 5mm gap: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 > or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc > > Anyone has any idea what the problem is? > > It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 13:15:23 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Dave Porter' , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:16:33 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Many thanks Dave! Does anyone have a photo of the plate? Best, tadek -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter [mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com] Subject: RE: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine There is a thick ~3/16" plate with countersunk holes (3 I think) that centralize the dist. dave -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz@plusnet.pl] Subject: RE: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Dave, What face place??.. I have the clamp, but it goes above those 5mm.. Best, tadek -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter [mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com] Subject: RE: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Looks like, by the time you add the face plate and the clamp it should be pretty close. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine A small question here..: My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is about 5mm gap: http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc Anyone has any idea what the problem is? It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 13:24:19 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Bob Spidell' , 'John Sims' Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:19:19 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Bob, Many thanks - engine should be there soon - have patience :-) Cloth covered battery cables, available in 2 sizes from Auto Sparks, UK: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?cPath=116 There is also a distributor in US.. It was much more difficult to get the NOS original Lucas starter solenoid .. :-) Best, tadek -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 6:05 PM To: John Sims Cc: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Well, I'll tell ya, I looked but didn't see anything that I could criticize, except: 1) you're missing an engine 2) my work on my BN2 isn't nearly as perfect in a lot of instances (guess I didn't bug Rich enough) Where in the heck did you find the cloth-covered battery/starter cables???!!! bs John Sims wrote: > Critical comments can also be good comments and they are warranted in this > case. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > Bob, > > May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net] > Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 3:49 PM > To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... > > Outstanding! > > bs > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 13:25:47 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Rich C'" , "'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'" Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:26:18 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine The drive shaft is pinned to the distributer and as I recall is a gear drive off the cam. So there is no thrust washer or slot drive retaining plate (as on the 6) and the dist. should go all the way down to dist body/block interface. The clamp plate is flush with block under the bolt heads and raised around the dist. body.. I think that's correct.. frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich C Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 1:12 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Looks like it's not all the way into the 180 degree offset slot. Yeah, I know, simply state the obvious. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 2:43 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine > A small question here..: > > My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount > the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is > about > 5mm gap: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 > or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc > > Anyone has any idea what the problem is? > > It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 13:38:43 2010 From: "Dick Matson" To: "AustinHealey List" Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:34:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program As reported earlier, I recently saw on the highway what looked to me like a screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway I stopped, went back, and picked it up. Turned out it was a screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common Craftsman screwdriver, really beat up from traffic and in any event good to get off the road I thought Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being useable either I decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears store. Discussion later on the list suggested to me this screwdriver might fall into the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - anyway maybe not mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I would return it to Sears. Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. I also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one with a little longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU carburetor on your Austin Healey. Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the tool man told me - the screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I couldn't. So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears store. And in the bag what do I find. Both screwdrivers. Now what ? Dick Matson / Bj8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 13:39:10 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Oudesluys' , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:35:12 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Many thanks Kees, I am just not sure I understand it all - where is the dog? Top of shaft? Bottom? There is a photo of the distributor on the Advanced Distributors web page: http://tinyurl.com/2bs6nbt Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys [mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 8:58 PM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Tadek, The offset dog on the distributor shaft should engage in a slot in the top of the driving shaft. This slot is also off center so that it will only engage in one position. Insert the distributor and press down lightly, then turn the distributor shaft slowly and if all is well it should engage at some point. You may have to lift the distributor once or twice for succes. After that the distributor body will sink and sit properly. Never use undue force. Kees Oudesluijs NL _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 13:39:21 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'" , Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:35:12 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] dist Right.. the dist shaft has about an additional inch of length below the gear drive and must fit into a machined hole to keep everything centralized. Perhaps that connection point is galled or the thrust washer, if used, is incorrect thickness or the gears are simply not properly engaged.. rock the engine a bit. dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 13:46:56 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Dave Porter'" , "'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'" Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:47:02 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] dist With the rockers on cyl#4 rocking, insert the dist such that the rotor is pointing to the plug wire on #1 cylinder. frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Porter Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 1:35 PM To: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] dist Right.. the dist shaft has about an additional inch of length below the gear drive and must fit into a machined hole to keep everything centralized. Perhaps that connection point is galled or the thrust washer, if used, is incorrect thickness or the gears are simply not properly engaged.. rock the engine a bit. dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 14:10:15 2010 From: healeyguy@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:06:44 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? Maybe Austin Healeys? Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: eyera3@gmail.com To: Jack Feldman ; shop@justbrits.com Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 8:20 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? Hate to ask, but what is the other? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:54 am Subject: [Healeys] HAM? To: Cc: Ed, Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It is hard to find folks with two of my perversions. Can I be of assistance? Jack KA9HEL _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 14:13:17 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: John Sims Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:13:41 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... OK ... I looked again. Isn't the strap holding the cold air hose to the duct on the firewall supposed to be the band type? Obviously, you'll have to take the whole car apart and start over. bs On 9/10/2010 7:50 AM, John Sims wrote: > Critical comments can also be good comments and they are warranted in this > case. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > > Bob, > > May thanks, but I would enjoy some critical comments as well :-) > ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 14:53:59 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 22:53:11 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Sorry Tadek, Just disregard my comments on the distributor. They were for non gear driven distributors. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 15:08:46 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: AustinHealey List Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:05:51 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Sorry Dick, but......... << Now what ? >> resolve yourself to the fact that you are screwed !!! Simple, huh ??? Anon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 15:09:45 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:09:38 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine << I think that's correct.. >> I agree, Dave. It's just like the MGs ones. Tiny hole in block below the cam and dist. gear engages cam gear right there !! Tadek, can be a real PITA every once in awhile but it WILL go down & mesh. Just like somebody else mentioned be SURE of rotor orientation !! Easy to get one [1] tooth off. BTDT !! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 15:43:00 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=" To: healeyguy@aol.com,healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:43:18 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?HAM=3F?= Our cars are s virtue. We prevent the spread of rust, help with jobs and our wives know where to fund us. So, it must be something else Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: healeyguy@aol.com Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 1:06 pm Subject: [Healeys] HAM? To: Cc: Maybe Austin Healeys? Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: eyera3@gmail.com To: Jack Feldman ; shop@justbrits.com Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 8:20 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? Hate to ask, but what is the other? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:54 am Subject: [Healeys] HAM? To: Cc: Ed, Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It is hard to find folks with two of my perversions. Can I be of assistance? Jack KA9HEL _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 15:57:52 2010 From: HealeyRick To: AustinHealey List , Dick Matson Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:58:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program File under no good deed goes unpunished. You now have a positive karma balance, which left uncorrected will upset the careful balance of the universe. Only thing for it is to throw the new screwdriver on the side of the road and hope someone else finds it. If, however they run over it and puncture a tire, you will have a negative karma balance and have to start the process over. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 9/10/10, Dick Matson wrote: From: Dick Matson Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program To: "AustinHealey List" Date: Friday, September 10, 2010, 3:34 PM. Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the tool man told me - the screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I couldn't. So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears store. And in the bag what do I find. Both screwdrivers. Now what ? Dick Matson / Bj8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 16:09:13 2010 From: Robert Duquette To: Healeys Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 22:06:09 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? Interesting typo. "Our wives know where to "fund" us" :) My mother-in-law was here for Christmas a couple of years ago and thought I got short changed on the gifts end of things. "you just got those little pieces of metal" But I was very happy. Robert D > > Our cars are s virtue. We prevent the spread of rust, help with jobs and our wives know where to fund us. So, it must be something else > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > Please excuse typos > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: healeyguy@aol.com > > Maybe Austin Healeys? > Aloha > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > > Hate to ask, but what is the other? > > Ira Erbs > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Jack Feldman" > > Ed, > > Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It is hard to > find > folks with two of my perversions. > > Can I be of assistance? > > Jack > KA9HEL _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 16:43:49 2010 From: Greg Mandas To: healeyguy@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net, "eyera3@gmail.com" Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:43:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? Well Said!!! --- On Fri, 9/10/10, eyera3@gmail.com wrote: > From: eyera3@gmail.com > Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? > To: healeyguy@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net > Date: Friday, September 10, 2010, 5:43 PM > Our cars are s virtue. We prevent the > spread of rust, help with jobs and our wives know where to > fund us. So, it must be something else > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > Please excuse typos > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: healeyguy@aol.com > Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 1:06 pm > Subject: [Healeys] HAM? > To: > Cc: > > > Maybe Austin Healeys? > Aloha > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: eyera3@gmail.com > > To: Jack Feldman ; > shop@justbrits.com > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 8:20 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? > > > Hate to ask, but what is the other? > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > Please excuse typos > Ira Erbs > DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Jack Feldman" > Date: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:54 am > Subject: [Healeys] HAM? > To: > Cc: > > > Ed, > > Who are you referring to as the resident HAM operator? It > is hard to > find > folks with two of my perversions. > > Can I be of assistance? > > Jack > KA9HEL > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 16:45:04 2010 From: Roland Wilhelmy To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:45:35 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... The "copper" brake lines may not be pure copper. they may be copper plated steel, or some alloy of copper that does not work harden. Someone who has used the "copper" brake lines, probably from the UK, might be able to clarify this point. -Roland BN1 with steel lines from Mr. Finespanner _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 16:55:51 2010 From: Herb Miller To: healeys Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:56:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering arm torque What torque should be applied to the big nut that holds the steering arm to the steering box? I do not find the value in my shop manual. Herb Miller Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 17:09:04 2010 From: Leonard Berkowitz To: Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:06:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Happy New Year Wishing a Happy and Healthy New Year to fellow members of the tribes, and all others as well! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 17:10:40 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Herb Miller'" , Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:11:12 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering arm torque Herb, Just a "WAG" as they say, but if 80 ft lbs is good for lug nuts, I'd guess 100 is sufficient for that nut. Since it is probably both tapered and splined and uses a lock washer to boot, it isn't going to come apart without a puller after once being tightened. Using torque valves is really only important when one needs to have even clamping over a multi-fastener object or when delicate threads might be damaged from over tightening. Engineers? Your thoughts.. frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herb Miller Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 4:56 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Steering arm torque What torque should be applied to the big nut that holds the steering arm to the steering box? I do not find the value in my shop manual. Herb Miller Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 17:17:09 2010 From: Leonard Berkowitz To: Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:17:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Back fire Just read an old post concerning backfiring. My BJ7 has been back firing badly for about a year. I thought it was due to a small leak in the flex pipe, which I have repaired - no change. Someone mentioned lean mixture as a possible cause. I have reset my carbs to run about as rich as I can but this also has not helped. I do notice when the engine is cold there is less back firing. I'm not sure if that is because of the temperature or because the choke is pulled out giving me a very rich mixture. However with the engine hot and the choke out there is also a marked decrease in back firing. By the way the back firing only happens under maximum vacuum conditions, like going down hill or decelerating from high speeds with my foot off the gas. Other then the back firing I do not seem to have any other problems with the motor. Any suggestions! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 17:24:22 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 18:23:39 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] HAM? << ...and our wives know where to fund us. So, it must be something else >> Since the latter is incorrect Ira, stands to reason that the former is CORRECT, right ??? LOL !! Ed PS: er, whether they know it or not ?!?!?!?!?!? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 17:39:18 2010 From: "warthodson@aol.com" To: frogeye@porterscustom.com, hgmiller3@qwest.net, Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:35:22 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering arm torque The steering arm is tapered & splied, but the nut is not. It also does not use a lock washer. It does use a cotter pin. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter To: 'Herb Miller' ; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 6:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering arm torque Herb, Just a "WAG" as they say, but if 80 ft lbs is good for lug nuts, I'd guess 00 is sufficient for that nut. Since it is probably both tapered and plined and uses a lock washer to boot, it isn't going to come apart without puller after once being tightened. Using torque valves is really only mportant when one needs to have even clamping over a multi-fastener object r when delicate threads might be damaged from over tightening. Engineers? Your thoughts.. frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE lbuquerque, NM USA 87107 05-352-1378 954 BN2 1959 AN5 orter Custom Bicycles _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 17:39:48 2010 From: Gilbert Gauthier To: Leonard Berkowitz Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:37:04 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Back fire What about your gasoline octane grade ???? Gilbert Le 10-09-10 ` 19:17, Leonard Berkowitz a icrit : > Just read an old post concerning backfiring. My BJ7 has been back > firing > badly for about a year. I thought it was due to a small leak in the > flex > pipe, which I have repaired - no change. Someone mentioned lean > mixture as a > possible cause. I have reset my carbs to run about as rich as I can > but this > also has not helped. I do notice when the engine is cold there is > less back > firing. I'm not sure if that is because of the temperature or > because the > choke is pulled out giving me a very rich mixture. However with the > engine > hot and the choke out there is also a marked decrease in back > firing. By the > way the back firing only happens under maximum vacuum conditions, > like going > down hill or decelerating from high speeds with my foot off the > gas. Other > then the back firing I do not seem to have any other problems with > the motor. > Any suggestions! > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/comkanuk@cgocable.ca _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 17:47:06 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: , , Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:47:03 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering arm torque Then if the holes line up at whatever torque is showing, it's as close as the factory used. Put in the cotter pin and pat yourself for a job well done. ;~) To be perfectly clear, tighten beyond the holes and castle nut clearance, then back off nut just enough to pass the cotter through. This is a tough audience and when it's slow here I'm way too chatty.. dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _____ From: warthodson@aol.com [mailto:warthodson@aol.com] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 5:35 PM To: frogeye@porterscustom.com; hgmiller3@qwest.net; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering arm torque The steering arm is tapered & splied, but the nut is not. It also does not use a lock washer. It does use a cotter pin. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter To: 'Herb Miller' ; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 6:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering arm torque Herb, Just a "WAG" as they say, but if 80 ft lbs is good for lug nuts, I'd guess 100 is sufficient for that nut. Since it is probably both tapered and splined and uses a lock washer to boot, it isn't going to come apart without a puller after once being tightened. Using torque valves is really only important when one needs to have even clamping over a multi-fastener object or when delicate threads might be damaged from over tightening. Engineers? Your thoughts.. frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 17:56:57 2010 From: Bob Spidell To: Leonard Berkowitz Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:57:23 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Back fire Check for an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold/downpipe flange (blown gasket, etc.). bs On 9/10/2010 4:17 PM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: > Just read an old post concerning backfiring. My BJ7 has been back firing > badly for about a year. I thought it was due to a small leak in the flex > pipe, which I have repaired - no change. Someone mentioned lean mixture as a > possible cause. I have reset my carbs to run about as rich as I can but this > also has not helped. I do notice when the engine is cold there is less back > firing. I'm not sure if that is because of the temperature or because the > choke is pulled out giving me a very rich mixture. However with the engine > hot and the choke out there is also a marked decrease in back firing. By the > way the back firing only happens under maximum vacuum conditions, like going > down hill or decelerating from high speeds with my foot off the gas. Other > then the back firing I do not seem to have any other problems with the motor. > Any suggestions! > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net ******************************************************************* _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 18:00:11 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:00:48 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Back fire << By the way the back firing only happens under maximum vacuum conditions, >> Just gave yerself a hint, Len !! !! Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 18:14:48 2010 From: Greg Mandas To: AustinHealey List , Dick Matson Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:14:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Enjoy you're new screwdriver(s). You told the truth and the tool guy made a decision to honor the warrantee even knowing how you acquired it. Greg --- On Fri, 9/10/10, Dick Matson wrote: > From: Dick Matson > Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program > To: "AustinHealey List" > Date: Friday, September 10, 2010, 3:34 PM > As reported earlier, I recently saw > on the highway what looked to me like a > screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway > I stopped, went back, > and picked it up. > > Turned out it was a screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common > Craftsman > screwdriver, really beat up from traffic and in any event > good to get off the > road I thought > > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being > useable either I > decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears > store. > > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this > screwdriver might fall into > the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - > anyway maybe not > mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I > would return it to > Sears. > > Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. > > I also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one > with a little > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU > carburetor on your Austin > Healey. > > Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the > tool man told me - the > screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I > couldn't. > > So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears > store. And in the bag what > do I find. Both screwdrivers. > > Now what ? > > Dick Matson / Bj8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 19:30:48 2010 From: Olin Brimberry To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:31:03 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Looks like a mounting bolt is missing from the steering box to frame. Olin On Sep 10, 2010, at 1:44 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, > > I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the > state it > was in: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed > > to the state it's in today: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# > > > Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with > questions.. > Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very > original > BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! > > > The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the > last > coat of paint with the gearbox): > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# > > The paint process looked like this: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# > > > Now the small print: I am aware that: > - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) > - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I > wanted > to insulate against heat > - flasher is not original (looking for one) > - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) > - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) > - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper > one > here) > - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) > - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet > - handbrake not insulated yet > - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver > before > paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which > although > probably not correct, looks better to me :-) > - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my > previous one > - few items are still missing > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey@hunterbane.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 20:10:17 2010 From: I Erbs To: Greg Mandas Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:09:44 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program As I said, warrenty travels with tool. This is not a moral issue. I Erbs Sent from my iPod On Sep 10, 2010, at 5:14 PM, Greg Mandas wrote: > Enjoy you're new screwdriver(s). > > You told the truth and the tool guy made a > decision to honor the warrantee even knowing how you acquired it. > > Greg > > --- > On Fri, 9/10/10, Dick Matson wrote: > >> From: Dick Matson > >> Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program >> To: > "AustinHealey List" >> Date: Friday, September 10, > 2010, 3:34 PM >> As reported earlier, I recently saw >> on the highway what > looked to me like a >> screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway >> > I stopped, went back, >> and picked it up. >> >> Turned out it was a > screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common >> Craftsman >> screwdriver, really beat > up from traffic and in any event >> good to get off the >> road I thought >> >> > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being >> useable either I >> decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears >> store. >> >> > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this >> screwdriver might fall > into >> the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - >> anyway > maybe not >> mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I >> would > return it to >> Sears. >> >> Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. >> >> I > also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one >> with a little >> > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU >> carburetor on your > Austin >> Healey. >> >> Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the >> > tool man told me - the >> screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I >> > couldn't. >> >> So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears >> store. And > in the bag what >> do I find. Both screwdrivers. >> >> Now what ? >> >> Dick > Matson / Bj8 >> _______________________________________________ >> > Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested > annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 21:41:38 2010 From: "Jerry Costanzo" To: "healeys@Autox.Team.Net" Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 20:41:49 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... These "copper" kits have nickel in the alloy. I don't know the concentration mix but here is a web site. http://www.hillmanbrass.com/Products/Copper-Nickel-90-10.htm _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 21:48:20 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 23:48:40 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Back Firing In a message dated 9/10/10 4:41:23 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > By the > way the back firing only happens under maximum vacuum conditions, like > going > down hill or decelerating from high speeds with my foot off the gas. > Other > then the back firing I do not seem to have any other problems with the > motor. > Are we talking about real backfiring -- the sound of a gun shot? -- or are we just talking about some sort of blub-blub-blub sounds when you let off on the gas. If the former, I'll leave it to the experts to sort out. If the latter, wouldn't worry about it -- it's often caused by simply running a little rich, and has been considered such a desirable "old sports car sound" that (I kid you not) BMW programmed it into the sound of the Mini Cooper S's until they got so many customers coming in complaining that their cars were "back-firing" that they changed the ignition program to make it go away. gary. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 21:54:53 2010 From: "Dick Matson" To: "AustinHealey List" Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 20:51:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Thank you. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: I Erbs To: Greg Mandas Cc: AustinHealey List ; Dick Matson Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 7:09 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program As I said, warrenty travels with tool. This is not a moral issue. I Erbs Sent from my iPod > >> From: Dick Matson > > >> Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program >> To: > "AustinHealey List" > >> Date: Friday, September 10, > 2010, 3:34 PM >> As reported earlier, I recently saw >> on the highway what > looked to me like a >> screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway >> > I stopped, went back, >> and picked it up. >> >> Turned out it was a > screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common >> Craftsman >> screwdriver, really beat > up from traffic and in any event >> good to get off the >> road I thought >> >> > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being >> useable either I >> decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears >> store. >> >> > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this >> screwdriver might fall > into >> the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - >> anyway > maybe not >> mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I >> would > return it to >> Sears. >> >> Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. >> >> I > also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one >> with a little >> > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU >> carburetor on your > Austin >> Healey. >> >> Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the >> > tool man told me - the >> screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I >> > couldn't. >> >> So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears >> store. And > in the bag what >> do I find. Both screwdrivers. >> >> Now what ? >> >> Dick > Matson / Bj8 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 00:40:54 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Roland Wilhelmy' Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:39:13 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... Well, These copper brake lines are designed for brake fluid and specially made for them. That's the reason I am not really so much afraid of them... Tadek -----Original Message----- From: Roland Wilhelmy [mailto:rwil@sbcglobal.net] Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 12:46 AM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: 'Austin Healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... The "copper" brake lines may not be pure copper. they may be copper plated steel, or some alloy of copper that does not work harden. Someone who has used the "copper" brake lines, probably from the UK, might be able to clarify this point. -Roland BN1 with steel lines from Mr. Finespanner _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 00:42:08 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'Olin Brimberry' Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:39:57 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Yep, but already in place - I could not find the BSF nut for some time... -----Original Message----- From: Olin Brimberry [mailto:healey@hunterbane.com] Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 3:31 AM To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 BN2 almost done.... Looks like a mounting bolt is missing from the steering box to frame. Olin On Sep 10, 2010, at 1:44 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: > Hello all, > > I would like to thank all who helped me in getting my car from the > state it > was in: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AH100Detailed > > to the state it's in today: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/AssemblyPhase2# > > > Great thanks go to Rich C. whom I have practically killed with > questions.. > Also, great thanks go to Rich Korn for providing photos of his very > original > BN2.. And all others! The list is truly so wonderfully spirited!! > > > The next stage will be the engine (almost done, just waiting for the > last > coat of paint with the gearbox): > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine# > > The paint process looked like this: > http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/Paint# > > > Now the small print: I am aware that: > - brake pipes are copper (cannot find anything else in Poland) > - I used Koolmat (as a kind of a substitute for tar paper :-) ) as I > wanted > to insulate against heat > - flasher is not original (looking for one) > - speedometer face & back color is not correct (winter project) > - the VIN tag looks terrible (looking for someone to re print it) > - fuel & oil flex pipes have wrong red thread (could not find proper > one > here) > - no twin batteries - (will be there maybe next year) > - gas pedal shaft not insulated yet > - handbrake not insulated yet > - instrument panel not silver - I could not find a trace of silver > before > paint job, so I felt I had a good excuse to leave it in white which > although > probably not correct, looks better to me :-) > - master switch is of newer type, I still have not rebuild my > previous one > - few items are still missing > > > Tadek > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey@hunterbane.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 00:58:01 2010 From: John Harper To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 07:58:09 +0100 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Tadek Did you replace the camshaft bearings? When fitting the centre one it is very difficult to get it in precise rotational alignment. If it is a little out the apertures in the bearing will not fully align with the block and the edges might protrude a little. This can cause problems when fitting the oil pump or the distributor. The outside diameter on the gears is tight fit when being fitted through the cam bearing which as I say has to be carefully aligned. I know of this problem from experience. Fortunately I noticed this early and was able to remove a very small amount of bearing edge with a file. Regards >A small question here..: > >My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount >the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is about >5mm gap: >http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 >or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc > >Anyone has any idea what the problem is? > >It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. > -- John Harper _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 01:25:23 2010 From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" To: "'Healey Forum'" Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 17:23:22 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Drilling Cast Iron - Non Healey G'day Sorry I am not in Austin-Healey mode at the moment as we have our garden open in a month or so and there's a zillion things to do. We bought the world's heaviest cast iron fountain and will sit it in a pond that's dug into the ground. Thankfully I have finished the digging. The pump fits into the base of the fountain, but it has to be drilled to allow water to flow in freely. I have never drilled cast iron and I keep thinking that it will take me a month of Sundays. Anyone had the experience and share some advice please. Actually I did take the BN3 out this morning to the local post office to pick up a wrought iron seat that was packed in a huge cardboard box. Wouldn't fit into our day to day car, but not a problem in the Austin-Healey. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 02:26:00 2010 From: "T+ B Willig" To: "'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'" Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:26:07 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Hi Tadek, I encountered the same problem a few weeks ago. The solution was very simple: I had filed the engine with oil, while the distributor was off the engine. The oil filled the bore in the block were the end of the drive shaft should be seated. What happened is, that when I inserted the dizzy the drive shaft compressed the oil to a certain extend..but then finito, nada, the dizzy would not seat completely. Solution: I sucked the oil out of the bore with a syringe to which a piece of clear washer hose was attached. After that all was well. Regards Thomas Willig >A small question here..: > >My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried to mount >the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There is about >5mm gap: >http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 >or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc > >Anyone has any idea what the problem is? > >It was rebuild by Advanced Distributors. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 02:40:17 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'T+ B Willig' , 'Rich C' Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:37:33 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Thomas, Dave, Rich and all, Problem solved! It turned out, that Advanced Distributors media blasted the shaft and the end that goes into the bore in the block was not as smooth as it should be. We polished it and it goes in fine!.. Many thanks for all help here from all sides of the Atlantic :-) Tadek -----Original Message----- From: T+ B Willig [mailto:willig@wtnet.de] Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 10:26 AM To: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz' Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: AW: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Hi Tadek, I encountered the same problem a few weeks ago. The solution was very simple: I had filed the engine with oil, while the distributor was off the engine. The oil filled the bore in the block were the end of the drive shaft should be seated. What happened is, that when I inserted the dizzy the drive shaft compressed the oil to a certain extend..but then finito, nada, the dizzy would not seat completely. Solution: I sucked the oil out of the bore with a syringe to which a piece of clear washer hose was attached. After that all was well. Regards Thomas Willig _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 03:00:37 2010 From: Chris Dimmock To: T+ B Willig , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 19:00:26 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor on the 100 engine Thomas, That's something you would never read in a workshop manual. A great diagnosis and solution! Well diagnosed! Thank you for sharing. Sincerely. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 11/09/2010, at 6:26 PM, "T+ B Willig" wrote: > Hi Tadek, > > I encountered the same problem a few weeks ago. The solution was very > simple: I had filed the engine with oil, while the distributor was > off the > engine. The oil filled the bore in the block were the end of the > drive shaft > should be seated. What happened is, that when I inserted the dizzy > the drive > shaft compressed the oil to a certain extend..but then finito, > nada, the > dizzy would not seat completely. Solution: I sucked the oil out of > the bore > with a syringe to which a piece of clear washer hose was attached. > After > that all was well. > > Regards > > Thomas Willig > >> A small question here..: >> >> My engine is finally painted with the gearbox painted and I tried >> to mount >> the distributor, but is does not want to sit all the way in. There >> is about >> 5mm gap: >> http://picasaweb.google.pl/Volvo1800S/ >> HealeyEngine#5515356135052686962 >> or http://tinyurl.com/2v9xrtc >> >> Anyone has any idea what the problem is? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 05:56:11 2010 From: "warthodson@aol.com" To: grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 07:50:57 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... The lines are 90% copper-10% Nickel, thus the name. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Jerry Costanzo To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:41 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... These "copper" kits have nickel in the alloy. I don't know the concentration mix but here is a web site. http://www.hillmanbrass.com/Products/Copper-Nickel-90-10.htm _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 05:57:22 2010 From: john doe To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 04:54:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park anyone going today _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 06:45:40 2010 From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:45:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Hello, Healeyphiles - Since my water temp gauge tested to be 100% accurate, and the various thermostats (unsleeved, sleeved, and no thermostat at all) had no effect on preventing the gauge from going to 212 on a hot day, the only thing left to do was to investigate the radiator. I decided to spring for re-coring the radiator with a modern core that has larger tubes, more of them, and more cooling fin area, too. I got the re-cored radiator installed this morning (67 deg. F in Havelock) and took the car on a test drive as I did before - 5 miles out, turn around at the traffic light, and 5 miles back home. I had removed the sleeved thermostat for the previous test, so this morning's test was done without a thermostat at all. Here's the result: The car warmed up (slowly, as expected without the thermostat) to about 180 as it idled at 1000 rpm in the driveway for 15 minutes. Once underway at speed (55 mph), the gauge dropped down to 140 and stayed there to the stoplight, where it moved up to 160 as I waited to make my U-turn. It was back to 140 when I got home. Although a real test will come when the ambient temperature is higher, it appears that the new radiator does have a positive effect. I'll reinstall the sleeved thermost later and see how it does. The radiator guy at North Raleigh Radiator said there was nothing physically wrong with my old radiator core - no plugging of the tubes or anything else visible. His comment was that that kind of core is usually found on industrial equipment like forklifts instead of cars. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 06:49:03 2010 From: Greg Mandas To: "warthodson@aol.com" Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 05:49:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... Speaking of which. I have a full BJ8 with booster set still coiled up in the box I'd like sell. Like other sets, it does not have the front "to caliper" shorties. Contact me off list. Greg 65BJ8 Sent from my iPhone so please excuse typos and brevity. On Sep 11, 2010, at 7:50 AM, "warthodson@aol.com" wrote: The lines are 90% copper-10% Nickel, thus the name. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Jerry Costanzo To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:41 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... These "copper" kits have nickel in the alloy. I don't know the concentration mix but here is a web site. http://www.hillmanbrass.com/Products/Copper-Nickel-90-10.htm _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 07:11:10 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "john doe" , Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:04:45 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park If I go and meet you there, how will I know it's you? Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "john doe" Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:54 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park > anyone going today > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 08:02:57 2010 From: Tom Felts To: Rich C , john doe , Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:03:01 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park Ok---I can't help myself-----"He will be with Jane" No offense John----just funning you. tom ---- Rich C wrote: ============= If I go and meet you there, how will I know it's you? Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "john doe" Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:54 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park > anyone going today > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 08:03:26 2010 From: dwflagg@juno.com To: medlabinc@msn.com Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:01:48 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Dick, You have received absolution from Father Erbs, so we may all now move on. Amen. > Thank you. > > Dick Matson / Bj8 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: I Erbs > To: Greg Mandas > Cc: AustinHealey List ; Dick > Matson > Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 7:09 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program > > > As I said, warrenty travels with tool. This is not a moral issue. > > I Erbs > Sent from my iPod > > > > >> From: Dick Matson > > > > >> Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program > >> To: > > "AustinHealey List" > > > >> Date: Friday, September 10, > > 2010, 3:34 PM > >> As reported earlier, I recently saw > >> on the highway what > > looked to me like a > >> screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway > >> > > I stopped, went back, > >> and picked it up. > >> > >> Turned out it was a > > screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common > >> Craftsman > >> screwdriver, really beat > > up from traffic and in any event > >> good to get off the > >> road I thought > >> > >> > > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being > >> useable either I > >> decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears > >> store. > >> > >> > > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this > >> screwdriver might fall > > into > >> the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - > >> anyway > > maybe not > >> mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I > >> would > > return it to > >> Sears. > >> > >> Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. > >> > >> I > > also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one > >> with a little > >> > > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU > >> carburetor on your > > Austin > >> Healey. > >> > >> Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the > >> > > tool man told me - the > >> screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I > >> > > couldn't. > >> > >> So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears > >> store. And > > in the bag what > >> do I find. Both screwdrivers. > >> > >> Now what ? > >> > >> Dick > > Matson / Bj8 > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg@juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ Human resource Masters Start Earning a Master's Degree or a Master?s Certificate-100% Online! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c8b8bfd16dad575941st06duc _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 08:10:50 2010 From: To: healeys@autox.team.net, Joe Smathers Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:07:57 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] After 5 year layup - Starting Help Joe, Good to see you back in the Healey world. I look foward to see you at Healey events. Jerry Anderson BN4 1957 Longbridge ---- Joe Smathers wrote: > Thanks to Steve Byers, I have re-found the Healey list. After over 5 years > of No Healey Fun due > > To an illness, it is time to get moving again. > > I have a 55 100 and a 60 3000 that have not been started for at least 5 > years. Both car engines were > > In great shape at last start. The 55 has a blown transmission but that is > another matter. > > > > My question from this great list is * How to go about the start up of these > engines ? * I want to make > > sure that I do not damage either engine in the process. Both cars were > running when put up, had > > gasoline in the tank and plenty of oil in the crankcase. > > Many thanks for the help and I will let you know how it goes. > > > > Best regards, Joe > > 1955 100 BN1 > > 1960 3000 BT7 > > > -- > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/randerson33@triad.rr.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 09:27:07 2010 From: "E.A. Driver" To: Rich C Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:27:20 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park Priceless!!!!! Rich C wrote: > If I go and meet you there, how will I know it's you? > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "john doe" > Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:54 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park > >> anyone going today >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver@sasktel.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 09:31:27 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'E.A. Driver'" , Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:31:56 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park ..look for the guy with the tag on his toe.. frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of E.A. Driver Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 9:27 AM To: Rich C Cc: john doe; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park Priceless!!!!! Rich C wrote: > If I go and meet you there, how will I know it's you? > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "john doe" > Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:54 AM > To: > Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park > >> anyone going today >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver@sasktel.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 09:41:39 2010 From: Richard Kahn To: Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:42:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hand break broke I need some quick advice. I am not where I can raise the car. Drove the BJ8 this morning and parked on a sight hill. The hand break did not catch and pulled all the way back. It does have the ratchet sound but no action. I'm thinking a clevis pin at the front of the line. I cannot get under to see that area but the rear looks OK. Has anyone had this experience? Is there any other possible cause besides a broken cable? Thanks Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 10:00:07 2010 From: "Dick Matson" To: "AustinHealey List" Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 08:59:57 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Ha . . . ! That's a good one. So . . I Erb says Craftsman tool warranties go with the tool. And that's the way the Sears tool guy put it also. He say's the circumstances don't matter. So my good deed for the day stands. A screwdriver is off Highway 2 in Central WA. And to boot I turned out the beneficiary of a brand new SU-adjusting screwdriver. I say that's wonderful. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Salter To: Dick Matson Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 5:31 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Absolutely no choice. You must throw one on the highway to appease the screwdriver gods!!! Michael S On 2010-09-10, at 3:34 PM, "Dick Matson" > wrote: > As reported earlier, I recently saw on the highway what looked to me like a > screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway I stopped, went back, > and picked it up. > > Turned out it was a screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common Craftsman > screwdriver, really beat up from traffic and in any event good to get off the > road I thought > > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being useable either I > decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears store. > > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this screwdriver might fall into > the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - anyway maybe not > mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I would return it to > Sears. > > Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. > > I also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one with a little > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU carburetor on your Austin > Healey. > > Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the tool man told me - the > screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I couldn't. > > So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears store. And in the bag what > do I find. Both screwdrivers. > > Now what ? > > Dick Matson / Bj8> _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 10:47:39 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?ZXllcmEzQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ==?=" To: "=?utf-8?B?RGljayBNYXRzb24=?=" Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:47:02 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Craftsman_Tool_Exchange_Program?= Rewards for good intentions Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Please excuse typos Ira Erbs DIGS-4 Solutions. IT Consulting ----- Reply message ----- From: "Dick Matson" Date: Sat, Sep 11, 2010 8:59 am Subject: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program To: "AustinHealey List" Ha . . . ! That's a good one. So . . I Erb says Craftsman tool warranties go with the tool. And that's the way the Sears tool guy put it also. He say's the circumstances don't matter. So my good deed for the day stands. A screwdriver is off Highway 2 in Central WA. And to boot I turned out the beneficiary of a brand new SU-adjusting screwdriver. I say that's wonderful. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Salter To: Dick Matson Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 5:31 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsman Tool Exchange Program Absolutely no choice. You must throw one on the highway to appease the screwdriver gods!!! Michael S On 2010-09-10, at 3:34 PM, "Dick Matson" > wrote: > As reported earlier, I recently saw on the highway what looked to me like a > screwdriver. Being not looking so good on the highway I stopped, went back, > and picked it up. > > Turned out it was a screwdriver, a short shank No. 1 Common Craftsman > screwdriver, really beat up from traffic and in any event good to get off the > road I thought > > Now knowing where to start to find it's owner and not being useable either I > decided I would take it with me next time to the Sears store. > > Discussion later on the list suggested to me this screwdriver might fall into > the same category as one purchased at say a garage sale - anyway maybe not > mine to exchange. I agreed with that and so wrote I would return it to > Sears. > > Today I returned the screwdriver to Sears. > > I also bought a brand new new No 1 common screwdriver - one with a little > longer shank that you might use to say adjust an SU carburetor on your Austin > Healey. > > Meanwhile I also told the tool man my story. And the tool man told me - the > screwdriver I was returning was mine. I said I couldn't. > > So now here I am home with my bag from the Sears store. And in the bag what > do I find. Both screwdrivers. > > Now what ? > > Dick Matson / Bj8> _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 11:04:12 2010 From: "Dallas Congleton" To: , "E.A. Driver" Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 13:04:26 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park He will be with Jane :^) ----- Original Message ----- From: "E.A. Driver" To: "Rich C" Cc: "john doe" ; Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park > Priceless!!!!! > > Rich C wrote: >> If I go and meet you there, how will I know it's you? >> >> Rich >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "john doe" >> Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:54 AM >> To: >> Subject: [Healeys] fall fest duke island park >> >>> anyone going today >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys@autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver@sasktel.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dcongleton@embarqmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 11:13:52 2010 From: Oudesluys To: BJ8 Healeys Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 19:14:06 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Continuing the thermostat thread Problem solved I would say. From now on the temp should not go far beyond the temp the thermostat opens unless a very cool thermostat is fitted. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 12:12:36 2010 From: Michael Salter To: Richard Kahn Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 14:09:35 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hand break broke Hi Richard, most likely cause is the outer of the cable having pulled through its locating bracket inside the tunnel. This is a real bear to fix requiring the removal ot the driveshaft and the gearbox tunnel at the very least. Michael Salter On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I need some quick advice. I am not where I can raise the car. Drove the > BJ8 > this morning and parked on a sight hill. The hand break did not catch and > pulled all the way back. It does have the ratchet sound but no action. I'm > thinking a clevis pin at the front of the line. I cannot get under to see > that > area but the rear looks OK. Has anyone had this experience? Is there any > other > possible cause besides a broken cable? > Thanks > Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 12:15:38 2010 From: I Erbs To: Michael Salter Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:15:40 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hand break broke Isn't the gear box tunnel welded to the floor? It is on my BT7. Did you mean tranny cover? On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 11:09 AM, Michael Salter < msalter@precisionsportscar.com> wrote: > Hi Richard, most likely cause is the outer of the cable having pulled > through its locating bracket inside the tunnel. > This is a real bear to fix requiring the removal ot the driveshaft and the > gearbox tunnel at the very least. > Michael Salter > > On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Richard Kahn >wrote: > > > I need some quick advice. I am not where I can raise the car. Drove the > > BJ8 > > this morning and parked on a sight hill. The hand break did not catch and > > pulled all the way back. It does have the ratchet sound but no action. > I'm > > thinking a clevis pin at the front of the line. I cannot get under to see > > that > > area but the rear looks OK. Has anyone had this experience? Is there any > > other > > possible cause besides a broken cable? > > Thanks > > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > -- Ira Erbs DIGS-4 SOLUTIONS IT CONSULTANTS Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 15:49:49 2010 From: raymead@comcast.net To: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 21:49:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] grungy mota lita steering wheel.........???? hi all recently bought a nice '66... it has a Mota Lita steering wheel which is kind of grungy (the metal part)...... any suggestions re cleaning it? tks, ray _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 15:57:41 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: healeys@autox.team.net, 'John Sims' Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 23:56:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Hello, I have compiles a list of possible overheating causes on the Healey 100 provided by you in the pat days. Please let me know if you have any comments - maybe we can ask John Sims to put it up on the website? --------------------------------- Overheating problems on a Austin-Healey 100 NOTE: The 4 cylinder engine cooling system in it's stock form is absolutely sufficient to cool the engine. If the engine is overheating something has to be wrong. 1. Check the temperature gauge - is it functioning properly and reading correct temperature? 2. Check the thermostat - is it operating properly, opening at the designated temperature? 3. Try using a 180 or 160 deg thermostat, these cars originally did not use 190+ thermostats. 4. Is the coolant level proper? 5. Is the coolant a proper mix of antifreeze concentrate & water? Too much antifreeze reduces the cooling efficiency of the coolant. 6. Is the Radiator cap a 4-7PSI cap? 7. Is the engine block/head clean? If not, redistrip/ chemistrip the block. 8. Is the radiator clean? Even if new, it could be blocked by debris from a dirty block. A full stock radiator should empty in about 12 seconds. 9. If you changed to aluminum radiator, check it's capacity - is it not less than the stock one? 10. If you have placed a fan in front of the radiator it may be blocking air - try removing it 11. Are all air deflectors fitted? 12. Are the heat shields in place? 13. Check the exhaust manifold for cracks 14. Check if the manifold is not loose 15. It's a good idea to have your manifold ceramic coated - it prevents high temperature radiating from the manifold 16. Is the fan belt properly tight? 17. Is the water pump not defective? 18. Is the head gasket not cracked? 19. Is the head not cracked (the 100 heads are prone to cracking between cylinder 2 & 3) You can check it by checking the compression on cylinders. 20. Has the head not been over shaved? If so, the water channels coming from the block will not match the channels in the head - they run at an angle. 21. The distributor should be set to ~6-10 deg @600 RPM; 35-38 deg max @ ~3000 rpm; Gap 0.015" 22. Are the carbs tuned properly? 23. The carbs are not set too lean? 24. Brake system checked? No brakes binding? 25. Is the oil pressure correct? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Overheating.doc] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 16:46:34 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: raymead@comcast.net, AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 06:46:49 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] grungy mota lita steering wheel.........???? Just use brasso/simichrome or your favorite metal polish. On 9/12/10, raymead@comcast.net wrote: > hi all > > > > recently bought a nice '66... it has a Mota Lita steering wheel which is > kind of grungy (the metal part)...... any suggestions re cleaning it? > > > > tks, ray > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 17:27:11 2010 From: "Peter & Veronica" To: Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:23:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Sprite coupe sighting G'day list especially Aussies. I was driving South on the Bruce Highway just North of Brisbane on Friday evening when a 4x4 towing a trailer passed me with a with a white Sprite coupe (Lenham or Sebring style) on it, rego no. 69 AHS (or could have been AHS 69). Anyone know it? Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Ward Spl coupe BN1 Holden V6 PS I was driving a Series 3 Landrover not one of the Healeys! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 17:42:03 2010 From: Jim McDermott To: Austin_Healey Healey_Net Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 16:36:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 2011 Healey Rendezvous in Vancouver Washington Hi Listers' Just a heads up for all of you that missed seeing the Australian Healey Streamliner here in the states when it made its attempt at the speed record on the Bonneville Salt Flats. Well, they are going to make another try in 2011. The Streamliner will be on display at the 2011 Healey Rendezvous in Vancouver, Washington. The Rendezvous is being held from June 27th through July 1st. You can check out more information about the meet at http://cascadeahc.homestead.com/rendezvous.html Thanks Jim McDermott 100-Six BN4 Cascade Austin Healey Club _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 17:42:40 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Peter & Veronica Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 18:42:44 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite coupe sighting Peter......... << G'day list especially Aussies. >> whilst I am not in Oz, I DO have a mate 'down there' who is quite 'versed' on Frogeyes and I have Forwarded your post to him. Owing to the hour, I would not expect to have a reply until tomorrow & I will post his reply ASAP after I get it. Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 18:42:42 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'" , Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:43:31 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Both this and the engine start up procedure will be on my site sometime Sunday. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz@plusnet.pl] Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 5:56 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net; 'John Sims' Subject: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Hello, I have compiles a list of possible overheating causes on the Healey 100 provided by you in the pat days. Please let me know if you have any comments - maybe we can ask John Sims to put it up on the website? --------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 18:57:09 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:53:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs Who knows what the quality of the bulk oil at the Quickie lubes is? I found out that I was paying $10.00 more for each oil change in my every day car when I had bottled Castrol put in instead of the bulk oil. Does anyone know if the quality of the bulk oil is inferior or could it be the bottle cost and the name brand makes the big difference? I would think that most oils today should last 3000 to 5000 miles between changes, bulk oil or not. Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 19:12:04 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: 'Austin Healey list' Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:07:06 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... << These copper brake lines are designed for brake fluid and specially made for them.>> Tadek, as Roland alluded to, the lines ARE an alloy and I have sold/installed a 100 [give or take] of them over the years --- all is well with all !! Whilst Doug Reid's pre-formed line sets [per car application] ARE GREAT, I would guess they would be platinum plated [or worse ] for you - LOL !!! << That's the reason I am not really so much afraid of them...>> Rightly so !!! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 20:03:52 2010 From: Maurice Maxwell To: Mark LaPierre , healeys@Autox.Team.Net Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 19:04:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Luggage Rack Not Fitting Mark, I had the same problem. Sent the rack back to moss after talking to them over the phone. They were very helpful with my attempts to solve the problem. Then I ordered one from Victoria British and it fit. It seems as though some of the suppliers use different measurements for the distance between the attachment points on the rack. Max 1961 BT7 ________________________________ From: Mark LaPierre To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net Sent: Mon, September 6, 2010 6:53:26 PM Subject: [Healeys] Luggage Rack Not Fitting Got a new Moss luggage rack that appears to be a wrong fit. I got my old hinge pins out and replaced them with the optional rack pins. These pins have a nut, a threaded area and the acorn nut. My question is where exactly do the rack tabs go in conjunction with the pin/ thread set up. The holes in the rack tabs are big enough to go over the threaded area but the tabs are not welded far enough apart to get them over both the left and the right threaded areas. The rack tabs fit exactly next to the hinges with no extra play what so ever so I can slide the pins through the tab holes but there is no way that I can get the tabs over the threaded area. Can someone tell me the sequence in which the luggage tabs should go on the pins. Or a couple of pictures would be great. Mark _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/maxandreb1@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 20:12:15 2010 From: To: raymead@comcast.net, AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 22:12:01 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] grungy mota lita steering wheel.........???? Ray, I also got an old steering wheel. If was not too bad but the metal and wood needed attention. For the metal it depends on how bad it is. You may need a multistep approach. Starting with around 600 grit sandpaper, followed 1000-1200 grit, then buffing with various grades of dressing on a buffing wheel. How is the wood portion? Keith ---- raymead@comcast.net wrote: > hi all > > > > recently bought a nice '66... it has a Mota Lita steering wheel which is kind of grungy (the metal part)...... any suggestions re cleaning it? > > > > tks, ray _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 21:00:39 2010 From: Richard Kahn To: Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:00:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] hand break Well it turns out the cable broke at the front end. Tisi is going to be a big job cause every nut and screw and pin seem to be frozen. Thanks for the input. Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 00:31:41 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'John Sims' , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:30:28 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? John, Looking again at my terribly careless and sloppy English, please make sure it is written in English and PolEnglish :-) Tadek -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6@verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 2:44 AM To: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: RE: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Both this and the engine start up procedure will be on my site sometime Sunday. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz@plusnet.pl] Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 5:56 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net; 'John Sims' Subject: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Hello, I have compiles a list of possible overheating causes on the Healey 100 provided by you in the pat days. Please let me know if you have any comments - maybe we can ask John Sims to put it up on the website? --------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 04:08:30 2010 From: Bob Haskell To: Jim McDermott Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 06:07:18 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2011 Healey Rendezvous in Vancouver Washington I heard that the Streamliner will also be in Colorado Springs for AHCA's Conclave which takes place July 3rd - 8th (http://www.conclave2011.com). Can someone confirm? Bruno, any plans to bring the endurance car over again? Cheers, Bob 3000 MkI Registrar Jim McDermott wrote: > Hi Listers' > > Just a heads up for all of you that missed seeing the Australian Healey > Streamliner here in the states when it made its attempt at the speed record on > the Bonneville Salt Flats. Well, they are going to make another try in 2011. > The Streamliner will be on display at the 2011 Healey Rendezvous in Vancouver, > Washington. > > The Rendezvous is being held from June 27th through July 1st. > You can check out more information about the meet at > http://cascadeahc.homestead.com/rendezvous.html > > Thanks > > Jim McDermott > 100-Six BN4 > Cascade Austin Healey Club > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 06:36:17 2010 From: "gary brierton" To: Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:36:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bonnevilleDVDbyAirTightPro Got my copy last week. Great job, Steve! It is a fabulous capture of that once-in-a-lifetime event. Even better than my own snapshots! Get your copy quickly! (No financial interest, etc., etc.) Gary Brierton _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 07:05:36 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Richard Kahn" , Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:06:01 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break Rich, I installed a new cable not too long ago, going in through the trany cover made the job pretty straight forward. While your at it you can clean up, derust, paint that area that is usually hidden away. Good job for the off driving season. Plan ahead and you can accomplish a lot of stuff that you may find when the cover is off. Like the trany rear bushings that allow the engine to move forward into the radiator if they get too worn or out of adjustment. Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. You may want to remove the passenger side rear seat too to get to some of the cable attachments and take a close look at your fuel pump while your in there. The fun has just begun. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Kahn" To: Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 11:00 PM Subject: [Healeys] hand break > Well it turns out the cable broke at the front end. Tisi is going to be a > big > job cause every nut and screw and pin seem to be frozen. Thanks for the > input. > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 07:17:03 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: 4 - Healeys Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:17:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re: Sprite coupe sighting]] Peter, ref your request, answer is below !!! If it's an Oz "Sprite" question, always drop Colin a note. For parts & Service also !!! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite coupe sighting] Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:20:44 +1000 From: Colin Dodds To: Shop at " Just Brits " References: <4C8C121E.3080701@justbrits.com> Belongs to Alex Robertson, President of the Qld Sprite Car Club. ----- Original Message ----- *From:* Shop at " Just Brits " *To:* Colin Dodds *Sent:* Sunday, September 12, 2010 9:34 AM *Subject:* [Fwd: [Healeys] Sprite coupe sighting] Hey mate - got an answer to below ?? From Healeys List !! -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [Healeys] Sprite coupe sighting Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:23:00 +1000 From: Peter & Veronica To: G'day list especially Aussies. I was driving South on the Bruce Highway just North of Brisbane on Friday evening when a 4x4 towing a trailer passed me with a with a white Sprite coupe (Lenham or Sebring style) on it, rego no. 69 AHS (or could have been AHS 69). Anyone know it? Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Ward Spl coupe BN1 Holden V6 PS I was driving a Series 3 Landrover not one of the Healeys! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/shop@justbrits.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 08:32:40 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:32:50 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> H U H ????????? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 08:33:30 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 17:32:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The List of Parts All the parts that I posted on this list have been sold. I have nothing left at all Thanks for everyone's interest Regards, Barrie Robinson barrie@look.ca 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 in great nick Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 08:33:50 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 17:42:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The British Car Cottage Industries A few years ago I started the not-for-profit web site, www.britcot.com, for those amongst us that can supply stuff or provide services but whose revenue does not allow for promotional expenditure. This mainly because I found a wad of O-rings for Smith & Jaeger gauges, including the square sectioned ones as used on Austin Healeys - I found the latter because I was doing up a BJ8. Since then the site has grown and there are quite a few "subscribers". So the purpose of this missive is to ask anyone who is a "cottage" industry to come on the site. Or, if you know of anyone who fits the "cottage" industry image, please give me his email/web site. There are so many great, but usually diminutive, suppliers of great stuff that unfortunately we never hear of except by word of mouth. Regards, Barrie Robinson barrie@look.ca 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 in great nick Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 08:36:59 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: raymead@comcast.net,AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 10:36:23 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] grungy mota lita steering wheel.........???? Try Wenol - it is fantastic. I got it via the Internet. Much better than your usual hardware store stuff At 05:49 PM 9/11/2010, raymead@comcast.net wrote: >hi all > > > >recently bought a nice '66... it has a Mota Lita steering wheel >which is kind of grungy (the metal part)...... any suggestions re cleaning it? > > > >tks, ray >_______________________________________________ >Healeys@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie@look.ca Regards Barrie barrie@look.ca 705--721-9060 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 09:17:53 2010 From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" To: Barrie Robinson Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 08:18:06 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] The British Car Cottage Industries Barrie, Thank you for doing this and I'd like to be included on your web site. I have been restoring British car (primarily Austin Healey) control heads (trafficators) for several years now (over 22) having taken over from the former provider of this service, Vic Wright of Portland, Oregon. Even though the bulk of my business are professional restoration shops I still do quite a bit for the individuals out there restoring their own cars. To date setting up my own website has not been practical and this sounds like a perfect fit for my business. It seems that folks have found me by accident and word of mouth and I'd like to let the rest of the British car world know what I can do for them. I've attached a copy of my restoration brochure which you may use on your web site. If you'd like any more pictures, just let me know. Thanks again. Cheers, Curt Arndt Carlsbad, CA * AUSTIN-HEALEY, AC ACE/ACECA-BRISTOL*** * *TRAFFICATOR (CONTROL HEAD) REBUILDING SERVICE On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 2:42 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > A few years ago I started the not-for-profit web site, www.britcot.com, > for those amongst us that can supply stuff or provide services but whose > revenue does not allow for promotional expenditure. This mainly because I > found a wad of O-rings for Smith & Jaeger gauges, including the square > sectioned ones as used on Austin Healeys - I found the latter because I was > doing up a BJ8. Since then the site has grown and there are quite a few > "subscribers". So the purpose of this missive is to ask anyone who is a > "cottage" industry to come on the site. Or, if you know of anyone who fits > the "cottage" industry image, please give me his email/web site. There are > so many great, but usually diminutive, suppliers of great stuff that > unfortunately we never hear of except by word of mouth. > > Regards, > > Barrie Robinson > barrie@look.ca > 705-721-9060 > MGB GT V8 in great nick > Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm > www.britcot.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Austin Healey-AC Trafficator Restoration Flyer-II.doc] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 09:52:21 2010 From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com To: gbrierton@hotmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 11:52:08 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] bonnevilleDVDbyAirTightPro Thanks Gary. It was a lot of work, but hearing comments like yours makes me really glad I was able to get this event recorded and shared. And I'm sure you got some great snapshots! Thanks again, Steven In a message dated 9/12/2010 5:36:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, gbrierton@hotmail.com writes: Got my copy last week. Great job, Steve! It is a fabulous capture of that once-in-a-lifetime event. Even better than my own snapshots! Get your copy quickly! (No financial interest, etc., etc.) Gary Brierton _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 10:13:52 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: ,raymead@comcast.net, AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 10:54:03 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] grungy mota lita steering wheel.........???? I am restoring a wheel for my Aston which is like the AH one. It is costing a whacking $300 to have it chromed and then another $325 for fitting a wood (burled walnut) ring. The latter being done by the chap on www.britcot.com - Suggest you take a look because he restores all sorts of steering wheels. At 10:12 PM 9/11/2010, pennell@cox.net wrote: >Ray, > >I also got an old steering wheel. If was not too bad but the metal >and wood needed attention. For the metal it depends on how bad it >is. You may need a multistep approach. Starting with around 600 >grit sandpaper, followed 1000-1200 grit, then buffing with various >grades of dressing on a buffing wheel. > >How is the wood portion? > >Keith > >---- raymead@comcast.net wrote: > > hi all > > > > > > > > recently bought a nice '66... it has a Mota Lita steering wheel > which is kind of grungy (the metal part)...... any suggestions re cleaning it? > > > > > > > > tks, ray >_______________________________________________ >Healeys@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie@look.ca Regards Barrie barrie@look.ca 705--721-9060 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 10:46:32 2010 From: Ralph Cap To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:46:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] rear oil seal good afternoon all after a drive yesterday heard some noise comming from the left rear tire and upon inspection found that the nuts holding the spline hub on were loose and the sr=crew holding the axel in was also loose and oil was comming out how could i tell if the seal is bad also to replace it do i need to take the hub off thanks ralph _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 11:01:07 2010 From: "John Sims" To: "'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'" , Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 12:58:02 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Both of Tadek's articles - Overheating and Startup procedure for a rebuilt engine are now on my site -- Engine section of the Technical page. And a link to photos of his restoration are on the Restoration section of the Links page. Thanks, Tadek. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz@plusnet.pl] Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 2:30 AM To: 'John Sims'; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: RE: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? John, Looking again at my terribly careless and sloppy English, please make sure it is written in English and PolEnglish :-) Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 11:46:47 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" , Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 13:46:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break The Edbonics is over my head on that one. Sorry. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:32 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> > > H U H ????????? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 12:16:45 2010 From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz To: 'John Sims' , healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:08:55 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Jim, please, I was just the person that did the Crtl-C and Crtl-V from what all wrote, on top screwed the English and converted it to PolEnglish... The credit is not mine at all!.. tadek -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6@verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 6:58 PM To: 'Tadeusz Malkiewicz'; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: RE: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? Both of Tadek's articles - Overheating and Startup procedure for a rebuilt engine are now on my site -- Engine section of the Technical page. And a link to photos of his restoration are on the Restoration section of the Links page. Thanks, Tadek. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Tadeusz Malkiewicz [mailto:tadeusz.malkiewicz@plusnet.pl] Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 2:30 AM To: 'John Sims'; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: RE: Overheating on a Healey 100 - a complete list? John, Looking again at my terribly careless and sloppy English, please make sure it is written in English and PolEnglish :-) Tadek _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 12:59:47 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 13:56:13 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break How in the H*ll is "HUH ???" as applied to an EXTREMELY "open" statement like YOURs, Mark??? JHC, I 'hope' YOU can understand the above AND RE-read your OWN prose !!! < To: Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:32 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> > H U H ????????? _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 13:29:35 2010 From: To: healey help Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 15:25:53 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs I don't know about the cost, but there was a recent article written, by professionals, that stated there was no need to have oil changed at 3,000 miles. It stated that 6,000 or more would be more than adequate for the changes. Bill BJ7 > From: lapierrem@sbcglobal.net > To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net > Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:53:06 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs > > Who knows what the quality of the bulk oil at the Quickie lubes is? I found > out that I was paying > $10.00 more for each oil change in my every day car when I had bottled Castrol > put in instead > of the bulk oil. > > Does anyone know if the quality of the bulk oil is inferior or could it be the > bottle cost and the > name brand makes the big difference? > > I would think that most oils today should last 3000 to 5000 miles between > changes, bulk > oil or not. > > Mark > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/insptwo@msn.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 13:34:30 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 14:34:49 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear oil seal Hi Ralph !! <<...upon inspection found that the nuts holding the spline hub on were loose... >> That tels me that someone, sometime RE-USED those SINGLE- USE nuts !! Sorry !! Please see: http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/SteelLokNut.html I would be VERY leery of the other Lok Nuts !!! Personally, I would also be very leery of plastic-insert Lok Nuts !!! Cheaper, sure. But I would NOT use on my car or a customers' car !!! << ...oil was comming out how could i tell if the seal is bad... >> Just 'surmising' that they are Originals, I WOULD replace. << also to replace it do i need to take the hub off... >> Yes, and pull the axles. It really IS a simple job which will be helped by having re-prints of Factory Service Shop Manual, Factory Service Parts Manual and if you can fine the Haynes one. Also, Moss Cat. has good drawings which you could either 'lift' from the site or just copy from manuals and enlarge. Hint: Masking tape enlargement to side of car above wheel- well for reference. Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 14:44:41 2010 From: To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:39:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale I have some used and a couple new 1200 bits for sale from my old car, best reasonable offer takes it, neverending process of cleaning out the garage. Pair of Headlight sockets and cloth wrapped wires, one has the bullet connectors clipped off, the other intact. Do the Concours judges pull the headlights to check these? :) Sockets marked RLE Made in England One axle bump stop (rebound buffer, fits on axle One pair BN1 Spiral Bevel Axle Oil seals (new) On centrifugal switch shaft with weights attached in good working condition All used except as noted, Any reasonable offer plus shipping, reply off list, thanks, Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 14:45:50 2010 From: Oudesluys To: insptwo@msn.com Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:41:13 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs In my daily driver I change oil once a year, sometimes I drive less than 10.000 other times more than 45.000 miles a year. This never caused any problems at all. Most daily driver cars I have had in the last 30 years or so covered well over 250.000miles before being scrapped because of rust or were sold because I needed something bigger-better-different. I never wore out an engine or gearbox and I am no slouch. I see 100mph and over quite regularly. These were not big lazy engines, but small high revving European and Japanese affairs. Kees Oudesluijs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 15:19:48 2010 From: "Rich C" To: "Mark LaPierre" , "Shop at \" Just Brits Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:19:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break (BRAKE) To aid our many non English speaking friends around the world.....It's spelled BRAKE in this instance, not BREAK. break is broken. brake stops things. Class dismissed. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark LaPierre" Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 1:46 PM To: "Shop at " Just Brits "" ; Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > The Edbonics is over my head on that one. Sorry. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" > To: > Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > > >> << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> >> >> H U H ????????? >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 15:20:40 2010 From: To: glemon@neb.rr.com, healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 21:20:28 +0000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale Before I get corrected "100 bits" not "1200" ---- glemon@neb.rr.com wrote: > I have some used and a couple new 1200 bits for sale from my old car, best reasonable offer takes it, neverending process of cleaning out the garage. > > Pair of Headlight sockets and cloth wrapped wires, one has the bullet connectors clipped off, the other intact. Do the Concours judges pull the headlights to check these? :) Sockets marked RLE Made in England > > One axle bump stop (rebound buffer, fits on axle > > One pair BN1 Spiral Bevel Axle Oil seals (new) > > On centrifugal switch shaft with weights attached in good working condition > > All used except as noted, Any reasonable offer plus shipping, reply off list, thanks, > > Greg Lemon > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon@neb.rr.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 15:29:52 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: healey help Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 16:24:00 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs Bill, whilst I HAVE read the same thing .......... << by professionals, that stated there was no need to have oil changed at 3,000 miles. It stated that 6,000 or more would be more than adequate for the changes. >> I would expect that we will hear from a Current Expert by no later than noon tomorrow !!!! Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 15:30:21 2010 From: "Rich C" To: , "healey help" Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:25:30 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs Bill, That is a very true statement when talking about today's modern engine and filters, but in these 50 year old designs, 3000 mile oil and filter changes a should be performed. It's cheap insurance compared to engine wear resulting in rebuild work. Rich -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 3:25 PM To: "healey help" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Change Costs > I don't know about the cost, but there was a recent article written, by > professionals, that stated there was no need to have oil changed at 3,000 > miles. It stated that 6,000 or more would be more than adequate for the > changes. > Bill > BJ7 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 15:30:48 2010 From: "rrengineer @dslextreme.com" To: Rich C Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 14:27:44 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break (BRAKE) Heck, I was wondering when someone was going to say something... Mike MacLean 56 BN2 60 AN5 On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Rich C wrote: > To aid our many non English speaking friends around the world.....It's > spelled BRAKE in this instance, not BREAK. > > break is broken. > brake stops things. > > Class dismissed. > > Rich > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Mark LaPierre" > Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 1:46 PM > To: "Shop at " Just Brits "" ; > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > > The Edbonics is over my head on that one. Sorry. >> >> Mark >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" < >> shop@justbrits.com> >> To: >> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:32 AM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break >> >> >> << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> >>> >>> H U H ????????? >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Healeys@autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler@quickclic.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer@dslextreme.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 15:31:11 2010 From: dwflagg@juno.com To: glemon@neb.rr.com Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:28:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale Also, it is "hundred", not "huindred" :) > Before I get corrected "100 bits" not "1200" > > > ---- glemon@neb.rr.com wrote: > > I have some used and a couple new 1200 bits for sale from my old > car, best reasonable offer takes it, neverending process of cleaning > out the garage. > > > > Pair of Headlight sockets and cloth wrapped wires, one has the > bullet connectors clipped off, the other intact. Do the Concours > judges pull the headlights to check these? :) Sockets marked RLE > Made in England > > > > One axle bump stop (rebound buffer, fits on axle > > > > One pair BN1 Spiral Bevel Axle Oil seals (new) > > > > On centrifugal switch shaft with weights attached in good working > condition > > > > All used except as noted, Any reasonable offer plus shipping, > reply off list, thanks, > > > > Greg Lemon > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon@neb.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg@juno.com > ____________________________________________________________ EXPOSED: Make $99/hr Online BREAKING NEWS: People are beating the recession by working at home. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c8d464b1854bb0abb1st04duc _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 15:31:53 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" , Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:32:20 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break Nuff said. Not worth the effort. You win. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" To: Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 2:56 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > How in the H*ll is "HUH ???" as applied to an EXTREMELY "open" > statement like YOURs, Mark??? > > JHC, I 'hope' YOU can understand the above AND RE-read your > OWN prose !!! > > < > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" > > To: > Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 10:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > << Also the front U- joint is a breeze from this area. >> >> H U H ????????? > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 16:00:04 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: 9issa <9issa@justbrits.com>, 4 - Healeys , Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 16:54:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Lat Friday Funnies --- VERY SAD......... but funny !!!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ul4UrbUsO2o&NR=1&feature=fvwp _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 16:07:39 2010 From: "Sid & Maria Bronson" To: "'Healey list'" Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 16:07:20 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] brake pads I HAVE A SET OF EBG GREENSTUFF BRAKE PADS MOSS # 585-620 LITTLE TO NO WEAR. ABOUT 6 MONTHS/ 400 MILES. ASKING $ 70 CONTACT ME OFF LIST IF YOU ARE INTERESTED. SID _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 16:18:13 2010 From: "Peter & Veronica" To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" , "4 - Healeys" Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 08:18:23 +1000 Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re: Sprite coupe sighting]] Thanks Ed and Colin! (I bought some badges from Colin just recently) Peter -------------------------------------------------- From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 11:17 PM To: "4 - Healeys" Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re: Sprite coupe sighting]] > Peter, ref your request, answer is below !!! > If it's an Oz "Sprite" question, always drop Colin a note. > For parts & Service also !!! > > Ed . _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 16:22:41 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz , 'Roland Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:28:04 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... Kurnifer was developed for brakes ! I believe Ferrari, Lambo's, and Porsche use it At 02:39 AM 9/11/2010, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote: >Well, > >These copper brake lines are designed for brake fluid and specially made for >them. That's the reason I am not really so much afraid of them... > >Tadek > >-----Original Message----- >From: Roland Wilhelmy [mailto:rwil@sbcglobal.net] >Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 12:46 AM >To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz >Cc: 'Austin Healey list' >Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... > >The "copper" brake lines may not be pure copper. they may be copper >plated steel, or some alloy of copper that does not work harden. >Someone who has used the "copper" brake lines, probably from the UK, >might be able to clarify this point. > >-Roland >BN1 with steel lines from Mr. Finespanner >_______________________________________________ >Healeys@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie@look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 16:30:07 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: Roland Wilhelmy , Tadeusz Malkiewicz Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 11:11:31 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... Kurnifer, a British development - specifically for brake lines, is 90% copper and 10% nickel. It is used extensively in high performance cars. In my opinion it is the only way to go - and is easily obtained. But in N. America it was slow to catch on just like seat belts, radial tyres and such (NIH syndrome). Currently available copper brake lines do not meet the Canadian govt. specifications and I doubt they meet USA or European specs. By the way, there is common confusion regarding Govt specs. In Canada they just give performance requirements NOT what material meets those specs. So you could use toast or fried eggs as long as it meets specs !!! Copper lines as sold now do not - but if the currently available lines were made stronger (thicker!) they could pass! At 06:45 PM 9/10/2010, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: >The "copper" brake lines may not be pure copper. they may be copper >plated steel, or some alloy of copper that does not work harden. >Someone who has used the "copper" brake lines, probably from the UK, >might be able to clarify this point. > >-Roland >BN1 with steel lines from Mr. Finespanner >_______________________________________________ >Healeys@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/barrie@look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 18:02:30 2010 From: Frank Edwards To: Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 00:01:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. Hello Listers; I can't get my fuel gage to work. If I put 12 volts on it it goes right to full. When I ground the Tank terminal it stays at full and I believe that it should go to empty. The car has been changed to negative ground but I don't believe that I've ever seen anything about that effecting the fuel gage. The sending unit is new but I know that doesn't mean that it's good. The car has been sitting for 20+ years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for your help. Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2@hotmail.com 1962 BJ7 1969 Midget 1961 Bugeye _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 19:30:35 2010 From: "Greg Lemon" To: Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:30:25 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale At least I spelled concours right! I guess if may be past time for bifocals. _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 19:45:04 2010 From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" To: "Healey list Forum \(Healey list Forum\)" Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:43:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Selling my original autographed Healey Sportsboat brochure Original Healey Sportsboat brochure with autographs Ebay # 330472014646 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 20:32:27 2010 From: "E.A. Driver" To: Greg Lemon Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:31:52 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Misc. Huindred bits for sale Hi Greg Ignore the word police, if all they have to do is correct a person's spelling they truly over the outhouse or possibly in it ;-) Regards Ed _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 21:22:08 2010 From: Richard Kahn To: , Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:22:25 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break Thanks. I already have got the bushings and rubber trany mounts . I was waiting for winter but now is opportune. > From: lapierrem@sbcglobal.net > To: tahoehealey@hotmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:06:01 -0400 > > Rich, I installed a new cable not too long ago, going in through the > trany cover made the job pretty > straight forward. While your at it you can clean up, derust, paint that > area that is usually hidden away. > Good job for the off driving season. Plan ahead and you can accomplish a > lot of stuff that you may > find when the cover is off. Like the trany rear bushings that allow the > engine to move forward into > the radiator if they get too worn or out of adjustment. Also the front U- > joint is a breeze from this area. > > You may want to remove the passenger side rear seat too to get to some of > the cable attachments and take > a close look at your fuel pump while your in there. The fun has just > begun. > > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Kahn" > To: > Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 11:00 PM > Subject: [Healeys] hand break > > > > Well it turns out the cable broke at the front end. Tisi is going to be a > > big > > job cause every nut and screw and pin seem to be frozen. Thanks for the > > input. > > Rich Kahn > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 21:47:39 2010 From: Richard Kahn To: Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:47:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Break/brake Sorry, I was p*ssed at the time I wrote it. Break ,brake, now broke ($13 bucks for a screw driver). So give me a brake! (Ha,ha) Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 22:08:04 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Barrie Robinson Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 21:08:11 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... Volvo has used copper alloy brake lines as OE since the days of the 240 if not before. They do not use a different brake line for Canada, so obviously copper brake lines do somehow manage to meet Canadian requirements. Rick On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 8:11 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > Kurnifer, a British development - specifically for brake lines, is 90% > copper and 10% nickel. It is used extensively in high performance cars. > In my opinion it is the only way to go - and is easily obtained. But in N. > America it was slow to catch on just like seat belts, radial tyres and such > (NIH syndrome). Currently available copper brake lines do not meet the > Canadian govt. specifications and I doubt they meet USA or European specs. > By the way, there is common confusion regarding Govt specs. In Canada they > just give performance requirements NOT what material meets those specs. > So you could use toast or fried eggs as long as it meets specs !!! Copper > lines as sold now do not - but if the currently available lines were made > stronger (thicker!) they could pass! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 23:02:17 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 01:01:22 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes In a message dated 9/12/10 2:33:33 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net writes: > > Bill, > > That is a very true statement when talking about today's modern engine and > filters, but in these 50 year old designs, 3000 mile oil and filter > changes > a should be performed. It's cheap insurance compared to engine wear > resulting in rebuild work. > > Rich > It's so much fun to know that the old chestnuts never die, new owners come along every year to ask them again. Makes us oldsters feel wanted. Interestingly, it always takes us the same amount of time to work up to the right complete answer. On an older car, if you drive the car regularly, Rich is right. Change the oil every 3,000 miles. However, If you're like many of us, and the car can go many months with little use in an off year with other things going on in our lives, then the oil and filter should be changed annually, at the end of the regular driving season, regardless of how many miles you've driven since the last oil change. I can give you at least four good reasons: First, you should always give your car a once-over every year, anyhow. Second, as Rich notes, it's cheap insurance to keep the car drivable. Third, if a car is going to sit for some period of time before being driven again, it's best that the oil be fresh and clean. Fourth, with the uncertainties of life, you never know when you put the car away how long it will sit once you've put it away, or whether you will ever take it out again. Fresh oil means that there won't be any impurities in the oil to add to the problems that will have to be dealt with when the car is driven again. Let's see, that should take care of this topic until fall 2012. Unless someone wants to argue this point unnecessarily. Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 12 23:16:31 2010 From: I Erbs To: Editorgary@aol.com Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:09:01 -0700 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes Good advice, but what oil should I use ') On Sep 12, 2010 10:01 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 9/12/10 2:33:33 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net > writes: > > >> >> Bill, >> >> That is a very true statement when talking about today's modern engine and >> filters, but in these 50 year old designs, 3000 mile oil and filter >> changes >> a should be performed. It's cheap insurance compared to engine wear >> resulting in rebuild work. >> >> Rich >> > > It's so much fun to know that the old chestnuts never die, new owners come > along every year to ask them again. Makes us oldsters feel wanted. > Interestingly, it always takes us the same amount of time to work up to the right > complete answer. > > On an older car, if you drive the car regularly, Rich is right. Change > the oil every 3,000 miles. > > However, If you're like many of us, and the car can go many months with > little use in an off year with other things going on in our lives, then the oil > and filter should be changed annually, at the end of the regular driving > season, regardless of how many miles you've driven since the last oil change. > > I can give you at least four good reasons: First, you should always give > your car a once-over every year, anyhow. Second, as Rich notes, it's cheap > insurance to keep the car drivable. Third, if a car is going to sit for some > period of time before being driven again, it's best that the oil be fresh and > clean. Fourth, with the uncertainties of life, you never know when you put > the car away how long it will sit once you've put it away, or whether you > will ever take it out again. Fresh oil means that there won't be any impurities > in the oil to add to the problems that will have to be dealt with when the > car is driven again. > > Let's see, that should take care of this topic until fall 2012. Unless > someone wants to argue this point unnecessarily. > > Gary > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 02:17:29 2010 From: Oudesluys To: Richard Ewald Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:10:18 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Copper brake lines, was 100 BN2 almost done.... There seems to be some confusion about copper pipe used for brake lines. Copper (100%) tube is and has been used for brake lines. This can be a dangerous practice as copper hardens when deformed making it brittle and prone to cracking. This deforming takes place continuously when braking, as the pipe will expand and contract a bit every time you brake. If you use Cunifer, a copper alloy, there is no problem and this type of brake line has been around and used successfully for many years and several manufacturers use it as standard equipment. Copper can be recognized by its reddish color and its softness, cunifer is pale yellowish/white and much tougher. Copper coated steel brake lines (if they exist, I never came across them) are not a good idea because of electrolytic corrosion, the steel is sacrificed first and can fail after a fairly short time in wet and/or salty conditions. Zinc or cadmium plated lines are fine and used throughout the industry. The steel only corrodes if the zinc or cadmium has been sacrificed first and that only happens after many years. Stainless steel can be used as well but also has some issues. It is hard to get in the right (aircraft) quality, it is hard to bend and it is difficult to make the required double flanges. A lot of people make single flanges, and although this works OK generally, it is illegal in many countries. These single flanges can be prone to fatigue cracking if not executed properly. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 04:54:37 2010 From: "Mark LaPierre" To: "I Erbs" , Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 06:54:22 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes Yes, that was actually the original question. Bulk oil vs bottle oil costs. I guess they were expanding on the original chestnut. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "I Erbs" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 1:09 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes > Good advice, but what oil should I use ') > > On Sep 12, 2010 10:01 PM, wrote: >> In a message dated 9/12/10 2:33:33 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net >> writes: >> >> >>> >>> Bill, >>> >>> That is a very true statement when talking about today's modern engine > and >>> filters, but in these 50 year old designs, 3000 mile oil and filter >>> changes >>> a should be performed. It's cheap insurance compared to engine wear >>> resulting in rebuild work. >>> >>> Rich >>> >> >> It's so much fun to know that the old chestnuts never die, new owners >> come > >> along every year to ask them again. Makes us oldsters feel wanted. >> Interestingly, it always takes us the same amount of time to work up to > the right >> complete answer. >> >> On an older car, if you drive the car regularly, Rich is right. Change >> the oil every 3,000 miles. >> >> However, If you're like many of us, and the car can go many months with >> little use in an off year with other things going on in our lives, then > the oil >> and filter should be changed annually, at the end of the regular driving >> season, regardless of how many miles you've driven since the last oil > change. >> >> I can give you at least four good reasons: First, you should always give >> your car a once-over every year, anyhow. Second, as Rich notes, it's >> cheap > >> insurance to keep the car drivable. Third, if a car is going to sit for > some >> period of time before being driven again, it's best that the oil be fresh > and >> clean. Fourth, with the uncertainties of life, you never know when you >> put > >> the car away how long it will sit once you've put it away, or whether you >> will ever take it out again. Fresh oil means that there won't be any > impurities >> in the oil to add to the problems that will have to be dealt with when >> the > >> car is driven again. >> >> Let's see, that should take care of this topic until fall 2012. Unless >> someone wants to argue this point unnecessarily. >> >> Gary >> _______________________________________________ >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Healeys@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lapierrem@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 05:03:42 2010 From: Alan Seigrist To: I Erbs Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:03:03 +0800 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes Erbs Bulk oil should be just fine, as long as you add some ZDDP. The main thing with oil is that you change it with some regularity. Since bulk oil won't have sufficient ZDDP levels in it, you have to compensate for that. At the end of the day, oil is oil. I don't think any particular brand, honestly, is any better than another as long as the weights are correct for your car and you change it regularly. As long as you are driving your car regularly, any oil will work. I think when your car sits a long time there might be some value to getting synthetics, but if you drive all the time, your car won't care. Coolant, on the other hand, is more important, esp from a corrosion protection perspective. Best, Alan On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 1:09 PM, I Erbs wrote: > Good advice, but what oil should I use ') > > On Sep 12, 2010 10:01 PM, wrote: >> In a message dated 9/12/10 2:33:33 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net >> writes: >> >> >>> >>> Bill, >>> >>> That is a very true statement when talking about today's modern engine > and >>> filters, but in these 50 year old designs, 3000 mile oil and filter >>> changes >>> a should be performed. It's cheap insurance compared to engine wear >>> resulting in rebuild work. >>> >>> Rich _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 05:32:17 2010 From: Editorgary@aol.com To: healey.nut@gmail.com, eyera3@gmail.com Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 07:30:52 EDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes In a message dated 9/13/10 4:03:05 AM, healey.nut@gmail.com writes: > Bulk oil should be just fine, as long as you add some ZDDP. The main > thing with oil is that you change it with some regularity. Since bulk > oil won't have sufficient ZDDP levels in it, you have to compensate > for that. > > At the end of the day, oil is oil. I don't think any particular > brand, honestly, is any better than another as long as the weights are > correct for your car and you change it regularly. > Any regular oil in 10W40 or 15W50 grade will be fine. Preferences usually run to Valvoline VR1 "racing oil" or Castrol (has two different types in those viscosities, both of which would be fine) both of which were on the shelves at my middle-of-the-road auto supply store. The critical thing is the weight. Not only do you need the heavier weight, but since newer cars can't use that weight, the oil companies can continue to sell oil in those weights with sufficient ZDDP in it to take care of our old-technology engines. Bulk oil is probably all right, provided it is high-viscosity -- 10-40 or 15-50. However, the amount of money you would save per year, relative to the cost of an engine rebuild doesn't seem to justify any uncertainty. CAUTION: this doesn't apply to the first start-up and the first 500 miles on a newly-rebuilt engine with a new cam. For these purposes your engine builder should be using a high-ZDDP break-in oil in conjunction with molybdenum assembly grease. Gary _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 05:38:16 2010 From: Alan Bromfield To: Healey Mail List Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 12:38:35 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ Team. Longer term contributors to this list will possibly be a little jaded by the cyclic reworking of the oil debate over the last few years. The basic query appears to arise from the concern that 'modern' oil may only be suitable for modern engines, and therefore not suitable for our older technologies. The discussions and debates often became deeply technical and wandered off into discussions about various additional additives that could supplement the modern cocktail available from the big names out there. I learned, from the feedback on this list, that the levels of ZDDP additive in motor oil has been reducing over the years as it is detrimental to catalytic converters. Unfortunately this reduction is in turn detrimental to the life of camshafts that use flat face followers (tappets) - that's us!! The latest API Service Standard designation is SM for gasoline automobile and light-truck engines. The SM standard refers to a group of laboratory and engine tests, including the latest series for control of high-temperature deposits. Current API service categories include SM, SL and SJ for gasoline engines. All previous service designations are obsolete, although motorcycle oils commonly still use the SF/SG standard. The API Service Standard is an alphabetic progression, starting at SA and currently at SM. In the SG standard, ZDDP at 1200-1300ppm was incorporated. From SG and beyond this density has been steadily reduced until today where SM has just 600ppm. My simple rule of thumb therefore is to use whatever motor oil is available that has an API no later than SG and change it every year. No matter what the marketing guys might say if the container says API SM don't use it. That should spark up some input - %^) -- _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) (_______\____1957-BN4____/________) (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _) _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 05:47:11 2010 From: ahy3000@comcast.net To: Frank Edwards Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 11:42:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. Found this site very helpful.. http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm Burt Weiner '63 BJ7 HBJ7L/23582 ahy3000@comcast.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Edwards" To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 8:01:50 PM Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. Hello Listers; I can't get my fuel gage to work. If I put 12 volts on it it goes right to full. When I ground the Tank terminal it stays at full and I believe that it should go to empty. The car has been changed to negative ground but I don't believe that I've ever seen anything about that effecting the fuel gage. The sending unit is new but I know that doesn't mean that it's good. The car has been sitting for 20+ years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for your help. Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2@hotmail.com 1962 BJ7 1969 Midget 1961 Bugeye _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 07:02:51 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: , Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 06:59:13 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes Not necessarily unnecessarily but, if you must have you car smog tested, oil will in fairly short order "blend" with hydrocarbons and other by products of combustion and heat and contaminants. So all of that stuff is continually re-circulated and adds to the tailpipe readings. So, "fresher" oil will get a sometimes marginal car through a smog test and will enhance the life of bearings and friction surfaces. Since Healeys are most exempt from testing, never mind. dave frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ -----Original Message----- It's so much fun to know that the old chestnuts never die, new owners come along every year to ask them again. Makes us oldsters feel wanted. Interestingly, it always takes us the same amount of time to work up to the right complete answer. Let's see, that should take care of this topic until fall 2012. Unless someone wants to argue this point unnecessarily. Gary _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 07:17:15 2010 From: "Dave Porter" To: "'Alan Seigrist'" , "'I Erbs'" Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 07:10:26 -0600 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes Come on.. Bulk oil is the same oil as what's in a quart can.. only its purchased in larger (55gal and up) quantities. Less packaging= lower costs to everyone. Quick change lube shops should have a sign on the delivery reels indicating what you're getting. If it's with the oil experts on this list, then use it by all means.. As with today's politicians, I'm so confused about what is right, I ask my customers to bring their own oil.. :>) Me? I still use Castrol 20-50 in the crankcase. dp frogeye@porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff blog: http://porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 08:35:59 2010 From: Oudesluys To: I Erbs Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 16:34:03 +0200 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Changes Use 20W50 or 15W50 (the 50 is the important bit). Any brand will do but if you have added some serious power to the engine, which is causing the oil to get hotter, use Valvoline Racing, Duckhams etc, as some other brands may thin out a bit to much when hot. I always have this problem with Castrol Classic 20W50 which thins out much more than the Duckhams I used before, but the latter is hard to get these days. When driving prolonged stretches over 80mph the oil pressure drops when using the Castrol. Kees Oudesluijs NL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of coudesluijs.vcf] _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 09:04:25 2010 From: Bob Brown To: Healey List Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 07:57:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Peking to Paris 2010 Not quite Healey related, none entered but the exploits of this Rally are too goodB not to read. http://www.pekingparis.com/reports.shtml An excerpt from the Day 3 Report: "One of the most extraordinary stories to emerge was the effort of the Australians in the big Austin Sheerline. This car runs a four-litre version of the Austin Healey engine, originally designed for trucks and combine harvesters, and it ran its big end bearings yesterday. A workshop was found, and the bottom end of the engine stripped apart, to reveal a badly scored crankshaft, and wrecked shell-bearings. These were shimmed up and put back on with the crank having received much filing and polish with emery paper. To fill the gap b shims were made on the spot. One big-end was made out of cutting a strip out the side of a Sprite Lemonade can, and another was shimmed using the wafer thin aluminium from a cigarette packet. With this handywork, the engine was put back together and it drove into Mongolia under its own power this morning. Norman Brice and Colin Ryan deserve medals for this initiative of ace fettling. Emjoy the read, the Rally ends October 16th in Paris having started in Peking on September 10th. Bob _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 09:21:57 2010 From: "Dick Matson" To: "AustinHealey List" Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 08:16:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: hand break Richard: Make sure the emergency brake pivot, the pivot which is located near the rear end and that divides emergency brake cable action to the left and right side - is l-u-b-e-d. It has a grease fitting and it must move freely. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Kahn To: lapierrem@sbcglobal.net ; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 8:22 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break Thanks. I already have got the bushings and rubber trany mounts . I was waiting for winter but now is opportune. > From: lapierrem@sbcglobal.net > To: tahoehealey@hotmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] hand break > Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:06:01 -0400 > > Rich, I installed a new cable not too long ago, going in through the > trany cover made the job pretty > straight forward. While your at it you can clean up, derust, paint that > area that is usually hidden away. > Good job for the off driving season. > > Mark > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Kahn" > > To: > > Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 11:00 PM > Subject: [Healeys] hand break > > > > Well it turns out the cable broke at the front end. Tisi is going to be a > > big > > job cause every nut and screw and pin seem to be frozen. Thanks for the > > input. > > Rich Kahn _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 09:37:19 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Healey Mail List Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:37:35 -0500 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Specifications - The way I choose............ << _________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________) >> Tsk, tsk Alan !!! << >> You for got to take it 'off', Alan !!! _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 09:38:43 2010 From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 11:39:01 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. Hi, Frank - The gauge operates by sensing resistance in the circuit between the wire to the gauge T terminal and ground. When the tank is full, there is more resistance than when the tank is empty. For a BJ8 (and I would assume also for a BJ7), a full tank should give a reading of around 90 ohms when measured between the green/black wire that connects to the T terminal, and ground. When the tank is empty, the resistance should be close to zero. These measurements check the operation of the sending unit. The best way to check the gauge itself is to remove it from the car. Connect a 12V source to the B terminal and the negative post of the source to the central mounting post of the gauge. This should make the gauge read FULL. Then connect a wire between the central mounting post and the T terminal. This should make the gauge read EMPTY. To check the gauge calibration, make up a couple wires with 90 ohm resistors in them and connect them to the central mounting post. When the end of a wire with 90 ohms resistance is connected to the T terminal, the gauge should read FULL. When the ends of BOTH wires are touched to the T terminal together, the sensed resistance is 1/2 of 90, or 45 ohms. This should make the gauge read approximately 1/2. Negative or positive ground does not affect the gauge operation. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Edwards Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 8:02 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Fuel gage. Hello Listers; I can't get my fuel gage to work. If I put 12 volts on it it goes right to full. When I ground the Tank terminal it stays at full and I believe that it should go to empty. The car has been changed to negative ground but I don't believe that I've ever seen anything about that effecting the fuel gage. The sending unit is new but I know that doesn't mean that it's good. The car has been sitting for 20+ years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for your help. Frank R. Edwards 570-784-4662 logical2@hotmail.com 1962 BJ7 1969 Midget 1961 Bugeye _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers@ec.rr.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3129 - Release Date: 09/12/10 14:34:00 _______________________________________________ Healeys@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 09:49:44 2010 From: "Dick Matson" To: "AustinHealey List" Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2