Subject: [Healeys] Chassis - Dipping vs Blasting

From: Mike Tobin <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2012 11:26:51 -0500

I've got the BT7 chassis stripped of parts and I''m ready to get it
cleaned.  I'd thought I'd get the tools and media blast it myself (always
looking for an excuse to acquire more tools).  However, it looks like a
case where the stuff good enough to really do the job is more than I want
to spend for a one-time task.
What about having it dipped?  Can the shrouds be dipped?  Metal Strip of
New England (in Worchester MA) is not too far from me.  Anybody have any
experience with them?
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
Pepperell, Mass
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2012 14:01:17 -0500 (EST)

Mike
We had a BN4 chassis blasted in western PA this past summer. When I was
looking for quotes on dip strip or blast I only had one choice for the dip and
two for the blasting.  The dip stripper was backed up with work for months and
quoted more than $2500. The first media blaster wanted to work on an hourly
basis because of the sheet metal substructure and had a minimum of $1600. I
found a company about 30 miles away that does all types of blasting that did
the job for $600. Problem was that although they were careful with the blast
media selection and did a great job of removing the paint/rust, they were not
so careful with handling the chassis. It had been dropped on the A pillar and
it moved about 1.5 inches towards the center and also bent the toe box. The
chassis also was damaged from an errant fork lift on the long X member leg.
So the moral of my story is to find someone who specializes in stripping cars
and watch them do the work.  May be not be easy for you but most of the time
it isn't the estimator that actually does the stripping.
Oh and if you blast there will be media in every nook and cranny including
inside the frame rails. Cut the sway bar mount plates off the front and drill
holes elsewhere so your vender can blow the junk out.
Aloha
Perry

leaned.

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From: David Lodge <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2012 00:57:31 +0000 (GMT)

I had the BJ8 dipped a couple of years ago.  Best thing I ever did, but expect
some surprises!  That stuff cleans right down to the bare metal - or lack
thereof - so that the more badly rusted areas come out of the tank looking
like Belgian lace!  But it DOES get into every crook and nanny.  They can
strip aluminium in a different solution.

Regards, Lodge, Vancouver

> --- On
Sun, 16/12/12, Mike Tobin <[email-masked]>
> wrote:
> > From: Mike Tobin
<[email-masked]>
> > Subject: [Healeys] Chassis - Dipping vs Blasting
> >
To: [email-masked]
> > Date: Sunday, 16 December, 2012, 16:26
> > I've
got the BT7 chassis stripped of
> > parts and I''m ready to get it
> >
cleaned.  I'd thought I'd get the tools and media
> blast
> > it myself
(always
> > looking for an excuse to acquire more tools). 
> However,
> > it
looks like a
> > case where the stuff good enough to really do the job
> is
>
> more than I want
> > What about having it
dipped?  Can the shrouds be
> > dipped?  Metal Strip of
> > New England (in
Worchester MA) is not too far from
> me. 
> > Anybody have any
> > experience
with them?
> > Support Team.Net
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 
> > [email-masked]
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
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From: Jackson Krall <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2012 16:58:11 -0800 (PST)

------------------------------
On Sun, Dec 16, 2012 7:18 PM EST Jackson Krall wrote:

>
>
>With all the various issues with dip and blast Ive chosen to chem strip my
projects myself in my "studio". I've posted about my use of Phosohoric Prep &
Etch by Klean -Strip(Home Depot $15gal.) in the past but have had recent
breakthroughs worth passing on. BTW the product Larry Varley is using to
derust the Nash Healey appears to be phosohoric based, what he describes is
the same for the product I'm using.
>Old friend is major builder of coating systems for co's like Briggs &
Stratton etc. He says they use a tank of phosphoric acid in the coating "line"
to clean product before coating and that it's heated to 1800f. Much more
aggressive when heated he says, so I've been heating about a cup or so at a
time in plastic container in micro wave and then brush it on. Seems to work
better. I'm going to try using electric crocpot.
>When allowed to dry, the rust turns into the white glaze that is then
removed. Larry describes using a power tool for removal, I've been applying
another hot coating and immeadiatly hand sanding the glaze off using
water,small chisel/screwdriver, various wire brushes and pads cut from the
coarsest sanding belt I can find, usually 36 or 40 grit. When washed off you
will either find clean metal or more rust in which case the process is
repeated. I do a project a panal or section at a time but overlapping them.
>Another way to play it is to keep the rusty metal wet w/the acid do not let
it dry, work the rust with wire brush and sanding pads between coats.
Eventually the rust becomes a black goo that can easily be removed. This way
you have to stay with it, if you let it dry and form white glaze you can walk
away and work on something else.
>So far I've done an entire Bugeye and Jeep chassis as well as many smaller
items.
>I've experimented using a parts washer pump to keep a flow going over a
specific area with plastic catch container below. This dramaticly speeds up
the process but the acid becomes contaminated and foams until it can't be
used, still very useful for some applications. I need to find out more about
the equipment my "old friend" makes to remove the iron from acid so it can be
reused
>This process of rust removal is labor intensive and not fast but if you have
to wait 6 mos. for a date with a dipper, what the hay?
>Best
>JK
>
>
>----------------------------

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