Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 radiator cap issue

From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2013 06:41:56 -0400

Gary,

I take it that David Nock confirmed offline that the GTS1 thermostat 
(shielded wax capsule) he sells opens at 160 degrees.  Could one make a 
180 deg version using a non-sleeved 180 degree thermostat with the 
bypass blanking sleeve (Moss #434-135, BMC 11G176)?  I don't know if the 
groove in the cylinder head is deep enough for both, but there might be. 
  There's suppose to be a gasket under the the thermostat - (which I 
hadn't realized until recently) that might be left out.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

...

> David nock's explanation is based on the assumption that the thermostat is a
> bellows type & the bellows is operating correctly at or below 7 PSI & the
> bellows is collapsing at a pressure somewhere between 7 PSI & 10 PSI. This
> does appear to be a logical assumption/explanation. However, I believe the
> original post indicated that the temperature returned to normal after the 10
> PSI cap was replaced with the 7 PSI cap. I would think that if the brass
> bellows had collapsed it would not function correctly at the lower pressure.
> Replacing the thermostat with the type David describes is the logical next
> step. The only thing I do not like about those thermostats is that they are
> 160 F. Of course, most of our driving is such that the thermostat will be wide
> open & the operating temp will reach equilibrium at some temperature
> independent of the thermostat control temp.
>
> Gary Hodson
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From: Per Schoerner <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2013 16:36:11 +0200

Hi
I made a blanking sleeve from a small cat food can. With this the bypass 
hole is closed permanently. The thermostat is non sleeved, obviously, 
and has a little hole in it so there will be circulation, although very 
minor, while the engine is cold. My engine is still out of the car, so 
haven't tested it yet. If it doesn't work I'll remove it.

Per in Sweden

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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2013 10:07:29 -0500

<< On 4/1/2013 9:36 AM, Per Schoerner wrote:

My engine is still out of the car, so haven't tested it yet. If it 
doesn't work I'll remove it. >>

er Per. is it a "new" engine ? ?   If so, I would NOT be doing any 
cooling system "testing"
until it IS broken in ! ? ! ? ! ?

And personally, for my own unit or for a Customer unit "testing" would 
only take place when I
can remove the can AFTER one (1) or maybe two (2) test runs with full 
cooling off period(s).

My .05 !

Ed
Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com
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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2013 09:29:46 -0700

The 160deg sleeved thermostat I got was a standard Stewart/Robertshaw thermostat with a sleeve soldered on.  I 
desoldered the sleeve and soldered it to a 180deg Stewart thermostat.

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_3.htm

Bob

On 4/1/2013 3:41 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Gary,
>
> I take it that David Nock confirmed offline that the GTS1 thermostat (shielded wax capsule) he sells opens at 160 
> degrees. Could one make a 180 deg version using a non-sleeved 180 degree thermostat with the bypass blanking sleeve 
> (Moss #434-135, BMC 11G176)?  I don't know if the groove in the cylinder head is deep enough for both, but there might 
> be.  There's suppose to be a gasket under the the thermostat - (which I hadn't realized until recently) that might be 
> left out.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar

-- 
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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            [email-masked]

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From: Per Schoerner <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2013 22:12:33 +0200

Ed, and all
Yes, well, it's a new engine in that sense that it has new bearings, new 
rings and a "new" oil gallary. Previous owner restored the engine some 
20 years ago, but never used it. When I started using it I got oil in 
the cooling water, and I have finally rectified that, I hope.
With this sleeve that I made I want to "emulate" what happens when the 
engine warms up. When the temperature rises so does the thermostat and 
with it the sleeve which will eventually block off the bypass hole. This 
is to direct all coolant to the radiator when the engine is warm. The 
bypass hole is there to make the coolant circulate inside the engine 
while it is cold.
Without the sleeve some coolant will just circulate inside the engine 
and never pass the radiator.
With my sleeve the bypass hole is blocked off permanently. The only 
thing that might be a problem is when the engine is cold, it might be 
that the circulation is not strong enough, causing hot spots inside the 
engine. I reckon that a hole or two in the thermostat will keep the 
circulation good enough until the temparature is high enough to open the 
thermostat. And, yes, I can remove it easily if it doesn't work.

Per

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