Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp sender update

From: David Nock British Car Specialists <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 16:08:40 -0700

Cut the capillary tube and remove with a 6 point deep socket. Then have the
gauge rebuilt

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 2, 2013, at 3:59 PM, I Erbs <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Still stuck in my head....
> Resprayed with rust release.
> Removed radiator to get access with a cold chisel. Metal is soft and I cut
> off part of the nut with no movement....
> Other Len suggested a "screw grab "product to help gain traction on the
> rounded bolt head.  So while I wait for the delivery I can go us on the oil
> leak.... If my new rear main seal kit is leaking. How do I fix it,?
> What do I look for ? After I once again remove my tranny....
> really enjoyed that trip around the block last FridAy night....
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
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---

From: Mark J Bradakis <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2013 17:17:57 -0600

I Erbs wrote:
> rounded bolt head.  So while I wait for the delivery [...]

I understand that the product you mention is very similar to valve 
lapping compound,
a light, gritty paste.  A lot of folks have some of that laying around 
somewhere.  Well,
at least I do.

mjb.

[email-masked]

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From: Michael MacLean <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 17:07:57 -0700 (PDT)

PB Blaster.

>________________________________
> From: I Erbs
<[email-masked]>
>To: Ahealey help <[email-masked]> 
>Sent:
Monday, September 2, 2013 3:59 PM
>Subject: [Healeys] Temp sender update
> 
>
>Removed radiator to
get access with a cold chisel. Metal is soft and I cut
>really
enjoyed that trip around the block last FridAy night....
>Support Team.Net
>Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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---

From: john spaur <[email-masked]> mail.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2013 17:40:59 -0700

Ira,

To replace the nut the line will have to be cut. Looking at my gauge 
it is apparent that the entire line was replaced so it hardly matters 
where you cut it. The rebuilder will have to take the gauge apart to 
do it right.

With a leaking rear main and the issue with removing the gauge nut 
you might as well pull the engine. I know it is harder with the 
shroud in place but it will make removing the nut and rear main seal easier.

Once you have the engine out you should be able to carefully, very 
very carefully, drill into the nut on each side. You want to drill so 
you don't damage the threads in the block. Once you remove material 
from each side of the nut, from where the capillary tube goes through 
you can break a piece of the nut off and remove it piece by piece. 
Another product you could try but that has not worked well for me 
freezes the nut to shrink it.

When I had what I though was a rear main seal leak it turned out to 
be two problems. A failed gasket between the rear plate and engine at 
the camshaft rear galley. I fixed that by making a new gasket from 
thinner material and Form-a-gasket sealer. The other leak was because 
the rear main bearing cap did not seat properly because the felt 
gaskets I had were to big and had mushroomed at the top stopping the 
metal block from seating properly. I removed the felt and replaced it 
with The Right Stuff gasket maker.

Take things apart carefully to see if you can see an oil path. It may 
not be the rear main crank seal. If it is carefully look at the 
carrier, before removing it, to see if there is an oil path leaking 
from it. Also, once removed, check the oil seal lip for damage.

John

At 03:59 PM 9/2/2013 -0700, I Erbs wrote:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

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