Subject: [Healeys] Temp gauge

From: Frank Magnusson <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 13:57:54 -0500

Hi Ira, I just looked at my BJ8 and I see your dilemma for sure.  There's just
no room to work in there and no clearance to get a tool on the nut.
I would call the instrument shop, Palo Alto Speedometer does these I think and
ask them where to cut the tube.  I would think they would have to do this
anyway to replace the nut.  I think you'll also have to get out the heavy
artillery.  What you need is access room, so I think you'll have to remove
everything that you can that is in the way of getting a tool in there.
Radiator, fan, belt, etc.  I don't know if there is enough room to get a 6 pt
socket on it if the tube is cut or if the nut is too far gone for that. The
wall on the socket might be too thick to get in there, but you could have a
socket turned on a lathe to get it thinner, but it will also be weaker and
could shatter. There are all kinds of vise grips made and a mini one or a
needle nose or a mini needle nose might work if there's no other choice.
Sounds stupid, I know, but are you sure you're turning it the right way?  I'm
not sure if this nut is standard threads ( counter clockwise to loosen) or
reverse  thread.  Maybe someone on the list would know.  Found that out the
hard way on the main axle nut on the left side.  Miscommunication with me and
a healey shop.  Finally came off the wrong way with a customized tool and a 3
foot cheater bar.  Oops.  Was able to dress the threads on the axle and a new
nut and that Took care of it.
Are you using penetrating oil?  The best I've found is called break free.
It's made to a Mil Spec and its hands down better than anything else I've ever
used.  May be able to find it on the intent.  A lot of guns shops have it for
some reason.
If vise grips don't do the trick with good penetrating oil, you could try
instead of putting them on perpendicular to the nut, put them parallel to it
on the end, then use a big screwdriver or drift inserted 90 degrees to the
vise grips and use that to get some leverage to turn it while you squeeze the
vise grips together.  That's helped me out several times.  Might also have to
cut a wrench shorter to get enough room to swing it.
Other than that, it would take heat.  Lots of it.  The head will be a big heat
sink so you need a torch.  Propane torch probably isn't enough heat, but if
you go this route, you'll probably need to pull the head.  Too much of an
explosion risk doing it in the car, unless a shop is willing to try it for you
with the right precautions.  I don't remember if this fitting is in the head
or the block.  Hopefully you won't have to pull the head.  A good restoration
shop may be able to get it out for you without pulling the head.
Anyway, sure sorry to hear this is turning out to be such a job.  Good luck
with it.
frank

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