Subject: [Healeys] Torquing Studs.2

From: Mike Tobin <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 19:54:25 -0500

Just received and opened the box for the main cap bolt studs and nuts and
the instructions from the manufacturer (ARP) say to put the studs in "Hand
Tight Only" -  in bold yet.  This is at odds with what the BMC manual says
but inline with my intuition.

Mike Tobin
Pepperell, MA
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From: Wilko2 <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 17:32:57 -0800

That may be ok for some, but in my experience, if the studs aren't tight
enough, they'll come out with the nuts and that can be real a pain the ass in
some applications like the manifold studs or other location that only has
enough room to remove the nuts. Sure the main caps will be fine for removal,
but it's much easier to put on the caps with the studs in place AND it may not
be best to try use that stud as a "screw" when trying to re assemble.

Short version: finger tight is usually not enough torque.

On Nov 6, 2013, at 4:54 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:

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From: richard mayor <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 01:58:36 +0000

Finger tight is the correct way to install studs to get the correct torque
without compromising anything.  I had this explained to me by my engine
builder many years ago. He was quite emphatic about this and not just about
the cylinder heads studs.  Sorry, I cannot remember the precise reason, but I
have heeded his advice ever since.
Richard

> Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 19:54:25 -0500
> From: [email-masked]
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: [Healeys] Torquing Studs.2
>
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From: Richard Ewald <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 07:58:26 -0800

If you are worried about finger tight not being tight enough, install the
studs finger tight with both the studs and the holes clean and dry.  Then
apply a drop of green loctite (after lock).  It will wick down the threads
and lock the stud into place.
They won't come loose by accident.
Rick

On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at 5:32 PM, Wilko2 <[email-masked]> wrote:

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