Subject: Re: [Healeys] stator tube

From: "BJ8Healeys" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 14:57:28 -0500

Carl, the long stator tube is clamped at its lower end (in front of the
steering gearbox) by a brass compression fitting ("olive") and nut.
Apparently, the clamping force on the tube was not enough to prevent it
being pulled out when you removed the trafficator.  If you had any oil in
the steering box, you should have seen it leak out by now where the stator
tube got removed.  If you haven't seen the oil leak, then you should make
sure the box gets filled when you reassemble everything.  Also check the
steering idler on the other side of the car to make sure it's filled with
oil.
There shouldn't be any particular problem when you reassemble it, but make
sure the nut clamps the olive and tube sufficiently to secure the tube and
prevent leaks.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]
On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 12:37 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] stator tube

Just put my car away in storage for the winter.

Was working on the trafficator and when disconnected from the wires and
removed it brought along the smaller, (circumference), tube as well. Intend
to
fix the whole thing in the spring. Why did this happen-never has before and
is
this going to pose a problem for me when I re-assemble it?

Carl
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From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2013 07:44:44 -0500

Carl,

While they're out of the car, separate the two stator tubes and have a 
look at the slot in the long stator tube.  It's not uncommon to see 
cracks radiating from the two corners at the end of the slot.  If they 
get bad enough, the trafficator will start moving with the steering 
wheel when it's turned.

When I've made replacement long stator tubes, I've cut the slot with a 
slotting saw as original, but then gone back in with an end mill and 
radiused the end of the slot, removing the sharp corners (stress risers) 
left by the slotting saw.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 11/08/2013 12:36 PM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote:
> removed it brought along the smaller, (circumference), tube as well. Intend to
> fix the whole thing in the spring. Why did this happen-never has before and is
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From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 19:58:29 -0500

Herb,

Replacement was the only option I could think of when working on mine. 
Laser welding?  I don't know.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar

On 11/10/2013 04:46 PM, Herbert Miller wrote:
> I currently have my steering column apart, and indeed the long stator tube
> has cracks at the end of the slot, just as you described. Is there any
> repair ?
> Herb Miller
> BJ8
> BT7
> AN5
>
> On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
> Sent: Saturday, November 9, 2013 6:45 AM
> To: Dr. C. Rubino
> Cc: healeylist
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] stator tube
>
> Carl,
>
> While they're out of the car, separate the two stator tubes and have a look
> at the slot in the long stator tube.  It's not uncommon to see cracks
> radiating from the two corners at the end of the slot.  If they get bad
> enough, the trafficator will start moving with the steering wheel when it's
> turned.
>

[email-masked]

---

From: "Herbert Miller" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 15:46:54 -0600

-----Original Message-----

Carl,

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar

On 11/08/2013 12:36 PM, Dr. C. Rubino wrote:
> Was working on the trafficator and when disconnected from the wires 
> and removed it brought along the smaller, (circumference), tube as 
> well. Intend to fix the whole thing in the spring. Why did this 
> happen-never has before and is this going to pose a problem for me when I
re-assemble it?
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
$12.75

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From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 21:54:14 -0500

If you can find a short piece of tubing that is a tight fit over the inner
tube it can be soldered into place just above the bottom end of the slot
which will stop the cracking.
When  the stator tube is reinstalled carefully the slot is still of
sufficient length to permit full adjustment of the wheel.
A little fiddly but it works.

Michael S

On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 7:58 PM, Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>wrote:

>> look
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-- 
Michael Salter

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