Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 01:48:45 +0000 (UTC)

Darin,

If you look at a lot of restored Healeys--and photos of restored
Healeys--you'll notice that many have issues with door and lower sill
alignment (once you're aware of this problem it'll be the first thing you look
at on a Healey). All too often, 'dogleg' repairs aren't done right and the
cars have 'spurs' that jut out and down ahead of the rear wheels. Also, at one
time at least, the replacement outer sills had a straight bottom line, whereas
originals have a very slight upward curve (I can't think of any Healey body
line that is perfectly straight save for the door edges and neighboring fender
lines). Have heard Kilmartin is now making proper sills, but can't say for a
fact. The sills we got from Kilmartin may have a slight curve, or it may be an
illusion. Although Kilmartin sheetmetal is the best available, you will have
difficulty getting the new sills to line up exactly right (esp. the recessed
flange over which the fenders wrap). Get the dogleg repair pieces that have
the original wire bead (the cheaper ones just fold over the edge).

If you don't have a MIG welder, get one and get good with it. Rosette (aka
'plug') welds I feel are the best for use where spot welds were originally
used.

You likely have some body sag, probably on the driver's side. Unless you want
replace the chassis best you can do is split the difference on your gaps.

Fit everything up best you can before painting and, remember, everything's a
compromise.

Bob

----- Original Message -----

From: "Darin Graber" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 4:47:06 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers

Hello to all -

I am new to the list and am in the process of working my
way throughout the refurbishment of a '57 100-6 Longbridge in Salt Lake City.
This is a car that I want to retain some of the patina, and I WILL drive a
lot - I have the factory hard top and my driving season may very well extend
to year-round (dry weather permitting). So this won't be a trailer queen.
Attention is being paid to the 'typical' body places - doglegs, boot floor,
bottoms of fenders, cockpit floors, etc. Of course, the inner sills and outer
rockers are in need of replacement and are coming up soon. I have some
questions about the pitfalls of this task - i.e. door opening measurements, do
I need to brace the openings and if so, where, what to look out for, etc.

I have researched a lot on line and by reading books and have seen some
'restorations' being carried out using various methods and instructions. I
have seen many pics that the doors just don't look quite right, or the swag
line doesn't quite line up. My hope is that things will line up well enough
that I can duo-tone the paint. This cars' frame and outriggers are very good
- most of the corrosion has been contained to the outer sheet metal so the
measurements of the inner sills and their attachment to the frame is not a
worry (I don't think). I have a data chart with frame measurements. The car
has been to the frame shop and is straight. Again what I am looking for is
any info regarding this process, known issues, things to look out for, etc.
I look forward to your comments and dialog. Cheers!

Darin
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From: Mike Tobin <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 10:53:53 -0500

Darin,
Went through hell with my BT7 when I cut out the sills and rear shut
pieces.  The doors would not line up with the rear wings.  I'd left the
motor and trans in the car, to account for the sag. Didn't matter.  After
way too long I realized that cowl had moved (down and a bit forward) when
the siill had been removed (it's located on the lower edge to the sill).  I
cut the new sills off, got new ones and by using pipe clamps and a
come-along was able to get everything into alignment *before* re-welding.
It looks like s*"=t down there, but damn the doors line up!
My theory is that the Healey structure is really pretty stiff (never hear
about doors coming open), but they take a real beating (my frame rails are
all dented) and stresses build up which are released when a stressed member
is cut out.  Looking at the cowl I didn't think it could have moved.
The Kilmartin sills are nice.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
 On Dec 14, 2013 8:13 PM, "Darin Graber" <[email-masked]> wrote:

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From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 16:44:39 -0500

One little catch for new players in this regard.
I learned the hard way that gas welding the main floor sections onto the
frame rails will cause the rails to curl up like a banana making the door
gaps particularly difficult to get correct..

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 at 7:47 PM, Darin Graber <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
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-- 
Michael Salter

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