From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 02:46:18 2014
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Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2014 10:43:58 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <COL127-W41FFC96BC352E8149C0502A4C80@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc brakes again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For normal and spirited driving EBC Green Stuff is the way to go.
Kees Oudesluijs




Richard Kahn schreef op 1-1-2014 3:35:
> Yes, I know this has been do a million times. I will be in the market for new
> pads. I do not want ceramic because of the excessive disc wear even though
> they are suppose to shorten braking distance.  My question is about the
> Classic Gold brand that Moss sells. Are they of any quality or are there
> better brands out there? I have a bit of pad left but this is going to be a
> year of lots of driving and I've never changed the pads in more than 12
> years.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4259 / Virusdatabase: 3658/6964 - datum van uitgifte: 12/31/13
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 03:30:38 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Oudesluys'" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <COL127-W41FFC96BC352E8149C0502A4C80@phx.gbl>
	<52C3E35E.2050707@chello.nl>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 10:28:37 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac8G18kty/n4Z/swREam3HtwXJqgoAABCYAw
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc brakes again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Agreed and they are much cleaner ie you won't spend yr time getting black
off yr wheels/spokes etc.
I put them on our everyday cars as well.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: 01 January 2014 09:44
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc brakes again

For normal and spirited driving EBC Green Stuff is the way to go.
Kees Oudesluijs




Richard Kahn schreef op 1-1-2014 3:35:
> Yes, I know this has been do a million times. I will be in the market 
> for new pads. I do not want ceramic because of the excessive disc wear 
> even though they are suppose to shorten braking distance.  My question 
> is about the Classic Gold brand that Moss sells. Are they of any 
> quality or are there better brands out there? I have a bit of pad left 
> but this is going to be a year of lots of driving and I've never 
> changed the pads in more than 12 years.
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4259 / Virusdatabase: 3658/6964 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 12/31/13
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 09:23:36 2014
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 09:21:28 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac8GlK1VRsJZrnizT7ebZY4tqtwdGwAeCE3w
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A little more history on this car. It was Bill Bolton's car prior to Grant.
At one of the west coast conclaves Bolton goaded Dan Pendergraft (Healey
Challenge car #106) into a drag race. Dan wrote 

"Bolton insisted that we drag race at the West coast gathering in Ventura.

I didn't want to do it...but was goaded into it by him and some of the

faithful. I totally blew his doors off. An absolute massacre. I then made

them all buy me scotch's on the rocks all evening.  I did want to buy that

car from Bill but couldn't round up the necessary scratch. It was pretty

much as it was when Grant Clark campaigned it at that time."

 

Fun story. Dave

 

Happy New Year!!!

 



frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

 

 

  _____  



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Wilko2
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 11:54 AM
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961

Here's a page with some good pics as it was sold a couple of years ago:
http://www.rmauctions.com/lots/lot.cfm?lot_id=668582


It's also got a nice spread the "The Healey Book"

Here's info on a 2013 trip to Monterrey with the car looking as it did back
in
the day when it still had the hood scoop and the distinctive middle roll
bar:
http://stevemckelvie.wordpress.com/2013/08/03/1960-canadian-drivers-champion
ship-winning-austin-healey-to-go-to-monterey/





On Dec 29, 2013, at 10:01 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

> Interestingly that same car was, many years ago, brought into my shop for
> some tidy up work.
> It was a very interesting car having all aluminium body panels and a
bonnet
> with no scoop. I understand that it was built by Austin of Canada for
Grant
> Clark to race.
> My customer sold the car to a collector in the U.S. and I didn't hear
> anything more about it until a couple of years back when I was contacted
by
> a well known local collector who wanted me to come and advise him on what
> he should do with the ex Grant Clark Healey that he had recently purchased
> from R & M Auctions for whom he worked.
> I went to see the car and was sorry to see that it had been extensively
> modified with all the latest competition modifications thus loosing most
of
> its historic value.
> Fortunately all the removed parts had been retained and the current owner
> who, many years previously had watched the same car race very successfully
> at various venues, was entertaining the idea of restoring the 3000 to its
> original competition condition.
> Sadly the project never went ahead as he sold the car  and I have now lost
> track of it again.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 10:39 AM, J. Scott Morris
>
>> Yesterday I emailed the 'Healey List' about Grant Clark racing a Healey
>> 3000
>> in which he crashed at Mosport in 1961.B  In that email I included a link
>> to a
>> video of racing at Mosport in the early sixties in which the wrecked car
>> was
>> shown a few times..
>>
>> Evidently the original poster didnb t have permission from Rupert Lloyd
>> Thomas, who created the digital video, to share the video and therefore
it
>> was
>> removed and obviously my link is now useless.B  If the video is reposted,
I
>> will forward the link to the 'Healey List'.
>>
>> Sorry about all this.B  But enjoy the season and Happy New Year to all.B
>> And
>> remember, keep smiling. :-)
>>
>> --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaB  B  B B B - Keep Smiling, Murphy
>> Lives
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> All wisdom is plagiarism; only stupidity is original.
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 09:24:41 2014
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Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2014 10:22:51 -0600 (CST)
From: llennep@verizon.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting in ad
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Looking at the windshield pillars and the pods for the reflectors on the rear I would say 100.

Check 
out this one, currently running on your local TV station. What is that 
Healey in the background of the garage: 100-6? BN2?



http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7f2t/nicorette-i-quit
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 10:25:56 2014
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Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 12:23:54 -0500 (EST)
To: llennep@verizon.net, healeys@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1388597035;
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey sighting in ad
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Definitely a BN2 and from the looks of the patina, an unrestored BN2. Very  
cool, thanks.
Steven Kingsbury
 
In a message dated 1/1/2014 8:23:19 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
llennep@verizon.net writes:

Looking  at the windshield pillars and the pods for the reflectors on the 
rear I would  say 100.

Check 
out this one, currently running on your local TV  station. What is that 
Healey in the background of the garage: 100-6?  BN2?



http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7f2t/nicorette-i-quit
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 11:06:18 2014
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From: Richard Korn <cynicbass@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 18:01:45 +0000
To: "llennep@verizon.net" <llennep@verizon.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey sighting in ad
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Without seeing the front wheel opening ,this is either a BN2 or late BN1 with
those pods on the back.
Nice shop.
Richard

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 1, 2014, at 16:22, llennep@verizon.net wrote:
>
> Looking at the windshield pillars and the pods for the reflectors on the
rear I would say 100.
>
> Check
> out this one, currently running on your local TV station. What is that
> Healey in the background of the garage: 100-6? BN2?
>
>
>
> http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7f2t/nicorette-i-quit
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass@gmail.com
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <2536c.354faa5a.3ff5a92a@aol.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1388599320;
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey sighting in ad
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Early BN2, or replacement rear wings as it doesn't appear to have the character line/flange behind the rear wheels.

Bob

On 1/1/2014 9:23 AM, ATIGHTPROD@aol.com wrote:
> Definitely a BN2 and from the looks of the patina, an unrestored BN2. Very
> cool, thanks.
> Steven Kingsbury
>   
> In a message dated 1/1/2014 8:23:19 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> llennep@verizon.net writes:
>
> Looking  at the windshield pillars and the pods for the reflectors on the
> rear I would  say 100.
>
> Check
> out this one, currently running on your local TV  station. What is that
> Healey in the background of the garage: 100-6?  BN2?
>
>
>
> http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7f2t/nicorette-i-quit
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 11:07:23 2014
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 10:04:14 -0800
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8gP31n01h0NyJgq01gP4wD>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey sighting in ad
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And a square-body sprite on the rack:

ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/nic_healey_ad.jpg

On Jan 1, 2014, at 8:22 AM, llennep@verizon.net wrote:

> Looking at the windshield pillars and the pods for the reflectors on the
rear I would say 100.
>
> Check
> out this one, currently running on your local TV station. What is that
> Healey in the background of the garage: 100-6? BN2?
>
>
>
> http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7f2t/nicorette-i-quit
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 11:07:54 2014
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From: <insptwo@msn.com>
To: "ATIGHTPROD@aol.com" <atightprod@aol.com>, "llennep@verizon.net"
	<llennep@verizon.net>, healey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 13:05:38 -0500
References: <2536c.354faa5a.3ff5a92a@aol.com>
	FILETIME=[13E18820:01CF071C]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey sighting in ad
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Speaking of Healeys, watching the movie Transformers on TV yesterday and they
had a good picture of a dad and son riding in one.
Bill
BJ7

> From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
> Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 12:23:54 -0500
> To: llennep@verizon.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey sighting in ad
>
> Definitely a BN2 and from the looks of the patina, an unrestored BN2. Very
> cool, thanks.
> Steven Kingsbury
>
> In a message dated 1/1/2014 8:23:19 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> llennep@verizon.net writes:
>
> Looking  at the windshield pillars and the pods for the reflectors on the
> rear I would  say 100.
>
> Check
> out this one, currently running on your local TV  station. What is that
> Healey in the background of the garage: 100-6?  BN2?
>
>
>
> http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7f2t/nicorette-i-quit
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 12:33:18 2014
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <01d101cf0678$7f33d820$7d9b8860$@rr.com>
	<52C35CE1.5060301@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 14:31:05 -0500
thread-index: Ac8GhnvVEgVOAgkNQYeNB8aWvMTt/AAoPyHQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need help with O/D disassembly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all who responded to my request for help.  Several pointed out
that the inner lining on the sliding clutch was possibly stuck to the
annulus.  That did turn out to be the problem.  With a hooked tool made from
an old screwdriver through the holes of the sliding clutch and a few raps of
a hammer, out she came.  I appreciate the help.

Happy Healey New Year to all!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 18:39:58 2014
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From: Donald Ray <healey67@live.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 19:29:31 -0600
	FILETIME=[165230D0:01CF075A]
Subject: [Healeys] Seam sealer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have sand blasted the frame and primed it.  Do I use seam sealer first then
paint or paint first then seam seal??
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 18:54:06 2014
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seam sealer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All the cars I've seen have painted seam sealer.

Bob



On 1/1/2014 5:29 PM, Donald Ray wrote:
> I have sand blasted the frame and primed it.  Do I use seam sealer first then
> paint or paint first then seam seal??
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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	UTC
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2014 18:47:58 -0800
To: Donald Ray <healey67@live.com>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <BAY176-W28691991925C69514CB8AABECB0@phx.gbl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seam sealer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Seam seal then paint.

John
San Jose, CA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 20:31:08 2014
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where can i get a bj8 trans rear laygear thrust washer?  
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 20:43:15 2014
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	PST
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2014 19:40:47 -0800
To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20140102032151.8976.qmail@server278.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] thrust washer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My local ACE hardware store has thrust washers. I have not tried to 
find on to fit a transmission but it is a possibility.

At 03:21 AM 1/2/2014 +0000, healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote:
>where can i get a bj8 trans rear laygear thrust washer?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 03:20:32 2014
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From: "Craig Rice" <craigsuerice@iquest.net>
To: <llennep@verizon.net>
References: <5387273.236592.1388593371849.JavaMail.root@vznit170164>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 04:58:22 -0500
	TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=1000.0 KILL_LEVEL=4.5
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Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey sighting in ad
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The red vehicle is a late BN1. Rear reflectors & no crease in the rear 
fender.

Craig Rice
BN1 & BN2
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <llennep@verizon.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2014 11:22 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting in ad


> Looking at the windshield pillars and the pods for the reflectors on the 
> rear I would say 100.
>
> Check
> out this one, currently running on your local TV station. What is that
> Healey in the background of the garage: 100-6? BN2?
>
>
>
> http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7f2t/nicorette-i-quit
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/craigsuerice@iquest.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 08:47:24 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 15:42:31 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac8H0T90hNeQ9kjHQ1C8+T2RjTfphg==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Engine weight & gearbox weight
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I am contemplating the removal of my 3000's engine. Probably with gearbox
attached.

Once it's out (hoho), I'll want to put it on an engine stand. Rotating type.

I am not contemplating putting the engine onto any sort of stand before
removing the gearbox.

How much does the engine weigh?

How much does the gear box weigh?

I expect that engine stands come "rated" at/up to a certain max weight.
Isn't a 3000's engine fairly long for its weight? Doesn't this induce a
measure of extra leverage onto the load bearing mount on the stand? Should
one thus go for a higher rating and, if so, what does the collective wisdom
suggest?

I continue to seek for the weights in my manuals but without any luck.

Thank you,

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 09:13:34 2014
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Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2014 16:56:14 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:10.0.1)
	Gecko/20120208 Thunderbird/10.0.1
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <001d01cf07d1$40926910$c1b73b30$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine weight & gearbox weight
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon
The weihts are there in the manual somewhere, but as far as I remember 
the weight of the engine/gear box assembly is 277 kg, I think the 
gearbox/overdrive is some 45 kg.
It certainly is not something you would want to drop on your feet.
I suggest you screw the block to the stand using the holes for the 
engine mount and the oil filter on the right side, you will probably 
have to make some distance pieces to make it fit the engine stand.

Per

Simon Lachlan skrev 2014-01-02 16:42:
> Hi,
>
> I am contemplating the removal of my 3000's engine. Probably with gearbox
> attached.
>
> Once it's out (hoho), I'll want to put it on an engine stand. Rotating type.
>
> I am not contemplating putting the engine onto any sort of stand before
> removing the gearbox.
>
> How much does the engine weigh?
>
> How much does the gear box weigh?
>
> I expect that engine stands come "rated" at/up to a certain max weight.
> Isn't a 3000's engine fairly long for its weight? Doesn't this induce a
> measure of extra leverage onto the load bearing mount on the stand? Should
> one thus go for a higher rating and, if so, what does the collective wisdom
> suggest?
>
> I continue to seek for the weights in my manuals but without any luck.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 09:14:06 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 16:08:55 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac8H1O+VjUNmmxkmQsGyqC6dE1Pf0A==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Engine & gearbox weights...now only engine stand issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I did find the weights, so please ignore that half of my previous email.

However, I'd appreciate yr thoughts re an engine stand.

Below you will see the weights:

Engine and gearbox combined           728lbs/330kg. Haynes 

Engine                                     611lbs/278kg. Kenneth Ball

Gearbox with overdrive                      117lbs/53kg. Kenneth Ball

Standard gearbox*                             79.50lbs/36kg Kenneth Ball

 

*This is gearbox from a car not fitted with overdrive. But its weight must
be close to that of mine with overdrive detached.

SDL 02/01/2014

 

Thanks,

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 09:22:04 2014
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	Thu, 02 Jan 2014 10:19:35 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <001d01cf07d1$40926910$c1b73b30$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2014 11:19:32 -0500
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQM9f8Vt1csDvIIE50pNWinWYOVAqpeUrS6Q
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine weight & gearbox weight
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Take a look at: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Engine%20Cradle.pdf
For a home made engine cradle.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2014 10:43 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Engine weight & gearbox weight

Hi,

I am contemplating the removal of my 3000's engine. Probably with gearbox
attached.

Once it's out (hoho), I'll want to put it on an engine stand. Rotating type.

I am not contemplating putting the engine onto any sort of stand before
removing the gearbox.

How much does the engine weigh?

How much does the gear box weigh?

I expect that engine stands come "rated" at/up to a certain max weight.
Isn't a 3000's engine fairly long for its weight? Doesn't this induce a
measure of extra leverage onto the load bearing mount on the stand? Should
one thus go for a higher rating and, if so, what does the collective wisdom
suggest?

I continue to seek for the weights in my manuals but without any luck.

Thank you,

Simon
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 09:44:15 2014
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 08:42:13 -0800
	FILETIME=[97166A40:01CF07D9]
Subject: [Healeys] green stuff
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Where is green stuff available? Does it cause disc wear? I've heard of it but
not much.
Thanks,
Rich Kahn
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 09:53:32 2014
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 11:51:18 -0500
thread-index: Ac8H2tuwb5Ds02ujR6iwEdTIu25rdg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] O/D pressure gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
I think there are a couple sources for the pressure gauge to check the
operating pressure in the overdrive unit, but I don't have that information
written down.  Anyone know who has the gauges?
 
Thanks,
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 10:36:54 2014
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 17:34:51 +0000
References: <025e01cf07da$dc145a20$943d0e60$@rr.com>
	FILETIME=[F13F25F0:01CF07E0]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D pressure gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve:

Contact James R. Holekamp at 1-630-653-0610- or Fax: 1-248-479-5271

He lives in Wheaton, Illinois and makes these Pressure Gauges.



Jean


> From: sbyers@ec.rr.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 11:51:18 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] O/D pressure gauge
>
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> I think there are a couple sources for the pressure gauge to check the
> operating pressure in the overdrive unit, but I don't have that information
> written down. Anyone know who has the gauges?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 10:55:27 2014
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <025e01cf07da$dc145a20$943d0e60$@rr.com>
	<BLU173-W4018891FED262B38ED1D54D1CB0@phx.gbl>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 12:53:05 -0500
thread-index: Ac8H4PHtiQrZlea+Qaqs1lZWDhyrRQAAlRYg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] O/D pressure gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks very much, Jean.  Jay Holekamp also has the re-lined sliding
clutches, too, in case I need one.  I didn't know he had the gauges.
 
Cheers!
Steve 
 
From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2014 12:35 PM
To: BJ8 Healeys; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] O/D pressure gauge
 
Steve:
Contact James R. Holekamp at 1-630-653-0610- or Fax: 1-248-479-5271
He lives in Wheaton, Illinois and makes these Pressure Gauges.
 
Jean
 
> From: sbyers@ec.rr.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 11:51:18 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] O/D pressure gauge
> 
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
> 
> I think there are a couple sources for the pressure gauge to check the
> operating pressure in the overdrive unit, but I don't have that
information
> written down. Anyone know who has the gauges?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 13:18:56 2014
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References: <COL127-W64AF49801C6EC6A56E6F3A4CB0@phx.gbl>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 21:09:36 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Green stuff is ok. It will cause a bit quicker wear, but not that much.

Gergo


2014/1/2 Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>

> Where is green stuff available? Does it cause disc wear? I've heard of it
> but
> not much.
> Thanks,
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 13:57:19 2014
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From: Graham Wilkie <glwilkie1@bigpond.com>
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 20:51:24 +0000
References: <COL127-W64AF49801C6EC6A56E6F3A4CB0@phx.gbl>
	FILETIME=[66411CD0:01CF07FC]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Rich,

Greenstuff brake pads are made in the UK by EBC.

They are available as a set (four pads in the box) from Moss Motors. See page
81 (front disc brakes) or page A32 (Performance/Brakes) in the front of the
latest Moss catalog.

I purchased a set upon the advice from this forum; I have only clocked 200
miles since installing so cannot comment on disc wear. I believe the pads use
Kevlar in their construction. I'm very happy with them so far.

An important point to note is that the Moss catalog states that these are only
available for the BJ8 model from (c) 26705 and on.

Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
BJ8 Moruya Australia.

> From: tahoehealey@hotmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 08:42:13 -0800
> Subject: [Healeys] green stuff
>
> Where is green stuff available? Does it cause disc wear? I've heard of it
but
> not much.
> Thanks,
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 14:06:51 2014
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	Thu, 02 Jan 2014 15:04:51 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Austin Healey'" <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>, "'Richard Kahn'"
	<tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
References: <COL127-W64AF49801C6EC6A56E6F3A4CB0@phx.gbl>
	<CA+QDXmCWgtL3HxY93FRH6ziLAyfByBDR5qLJdPcgGyJihJ9p7A@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Google tells me that Green Stuff is available at the usual suspects. Go to:

http://ebcbrakes.com/where-to-buy-in-the-usa/where-to-buy-in-the-usa-automot
ive




John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Austin Healey
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2014 3:10 PM
To: Richard Kahn
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff

Green stuff is ok. It will cause a bit quicker wear, but not that much.

Gergo


2014/1/2 Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>

> Where is green stuff available? Does it cause disc wear? I've heard of 
> it but not much.
> Thanks,
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 13:06:34 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine weight & gearbox weight
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here you go Simon

Weights of components:	 
     Engine	                        611 lbs (277 kg)
     Gearbox standard	          79.5 lbs (36.227 kg)
     Gearbox with overdrive   117 lbs (52.907 kg)
     Rear axle	        166 lbs (75.454 kg)

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada       - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 1/2/14, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote: << Hi,  I am contemplating the removal of my 3000's engine. Probably with gearbox attached.
Once it's out (hoho), I'll want to put it on an engine stand. Rotating type. ...... How much does the engine weigh?   How much does the gear box weigh?  ......>>
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 14:19:17 2014
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	Fri, 3 Jan 2014 08:17:11 +1100
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'J. Scott Morris'" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	"'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <001d01cf07d1$40926910$c1b73b30$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	<1388696794.38739.YahooMailBasic@web162606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 08:17:06 +1100
Content-Language: en-au
thread-index: AQE9SB98TntIxvEdeLDLWwIczokZWpuVbvKQ
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine weight & gearbox weight
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

In other words they are bloody heavy.

When I put the block on the engine stand I connected it from the rear. Once
it was all tightened up it rotated by itself so that the top pointed towards
the ground - mistake. Next time (hope there won't be one) I will attached it
by the engine mount holes on the exhaust side.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of J. Scott Morris
Sent: Friday, 3 January 2014 8:07 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; Simon Lachlan
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine weight & gearbox weight

Here you go Simon

Weights of components:	 
     Engine	                        611 lbs (277 kg)
     Gearbox standard	          79.5 lbs (36.227 kg)
     Gearbox with overdrive   117 lbs (52.907 kg)
     Rear axle	        166 lbs (75.454 kg)

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada       - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 1/2/14, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote: << Hi,
I am contemplating the removal of my 3000's engine. Probably with gearbox
attached.
Once it's out (hoho), I'll want to put it on an engine stand. Rotating type.
...... How much does the engine weigh?   How much does the gear box weigh?
......>>
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 14:28:06 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Graham Wilkie'" <glwilkie1@bigpond.com>, "'Richard Kahn'"
	<tahoehealey@hotmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <COL127-W64AF49801C6EC6A56E6F3A4CB0@phx.gbl>
	<BLU177-W395D355089A9C2A1E68884E3CB0@phx.gbl>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 21:25:57 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac8H/QUO87lTo09VR2KT8WjixoiK3wAA0kdg
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, I had them on my MkII. But, I'm in the UK and maybe they distribute
more sets over here?
Try their part no DP2141. That's what I have in my records and it still
checks out on their (UK!!) site.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Graham Wilkie
Sent: 02 January 2014 20:51
To: Richard Kahn; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff

Hi Rich,

Greenstuff brake pads are made in the UK by EBC.

They are available as a set (four pads in the box) from Moss Motors. See
page
81 (front disc brakes) or page A32 (Performance/Brakes) in the front of the
latest Moss catalog.

I purchased a set upon the advice from this forum; I have only clocked 200
miles since installing so cannot comment on disc wear. I believe the pads
use Kevlar in their construction. I'm very happy with them so far.

An important point to note is that the Moss catalog states that these are
only available for the BJ8 model from (c) 26705 and on.

Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
BJ8 Moruya Australia.

> From: tahoehealey@hotmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 08:42:13 -0800
> Subject: [Healeys] green stuff
>
> Where is green stuff available? Does it cause disc wear? I've heard of 
> it
but
> not much.
> Thanks,
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 15:34:21 2014
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 14:30:57 -0800
	FILETIME=[4EE6D6C0:01CF080A]
Subject: [Healeys] green stuff
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a very early Phase 1 BJ8. Not in Moss catalog that I could see for my
VIN. On the Green Stuff web sight I found they had only the Sprite listed on
their drop down under Austin Healey.
I'll call Dave at British Car Specialist and see if he carries it.
Any other suggestion?
Thanks again
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 16:50:37 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 15:47:58 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Engine plus Smitty 5 speed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

so all this talk has me wondering how much the Engine and Smitty 5 speed
weighs?
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 17:01:23 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 15:57:27 -0800
References: <9Boq1n00N0NyJgq01Bor9M>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine plus Smitty 5 speed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I was just about to post some weights as I have a Smitty kit.

Healey trans w/overdrive weighs 117 pounds.

Toyota as used with Smitty/Healey 5-Speed weighs 77 lbs. so right there is a
40 lb weight savings. I've gone further by adding an alloy engine backplate so
that's another 10 lbs off.

50 lbs out of my engine room.

On Jan 2, 2014, at 3:47 PM, I Erbs wrote:

> so all this talk has me wondering how much the Engine and Smitty 5 speed
> weighs?
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>   _______                                  _______
>     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 21:17:33 2014
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Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2014 23:14:55 -0500
From: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130215
	Thunderbird/17.0.3
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <001d01cf07d1$40926910$c1b73b30$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine weight & gearbox weight
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I used a 2000lb engine stand from Harbor Freight and mounted the engine 
at the back end. Worked fine. No tipping problems.
Elton
On 1/2/2014 10:42 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am contemplating the removal of my 3000's engine. Probably with gearbox
> attached.
>
> Once it's out (hoho), I'll want to put it on an engine stand. Rotating type.
>
> I am not contemplating putting the engine onto any sort of stand before
> removing the gearbox.
>
> How much does the engine weigh?
>
> How much does the gear box weigh?
>
> I expect that engine stands come "rated" at/up to a certain max weight.
> Isn't a 3000's engine fairly long for its weight? Doesn't this induce a
> measure of extra leverage onto the load bearing mount on the stand? Should
> one thus go for a higher rating and, if so, what does the collective wisdom
> suggest?
>
> I continue to seek for the weights in my manuals but without any luck.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz@frontiernet.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 22:08:52 2014
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From: Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 22:02:21 -0700
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello all,

    Simply, I am looking for the hexagonal nut that would be on the PPGI
side/headlight switch on my 100-6.  The current lock nut I have is round, but
my 100-6 would have had a hexagonal nut to match the hex nut on the wiper
switch.  It's a weird thread and not metric (British pipe maybe?).  I have
exhausted all of my sources and am now looking to the group to help me out.
Does anyone have something like this and if so, would they be interested in
parting with it?  Thanks!
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 02:43:49 2014
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Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2014 10:38:26 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <5DCEDE5F-BA7F-468F-8938-2A70FD8D71CC@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Darin,
I have loads of Lucas switches in my famous boxes of old junk. I am sure 
there are some with a hexagonal nut, however these come in various 
shapes. If you cannot find anything locally let me know and send me a 
picture of the hexagonal nut you have on the other switch, so I can look 
for a match.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Darin Graber schreef op 3-1-2014 6:02:
> Hello all,
>
>      Simply, I am looking for the hexagonal nut that would be on the PPGI
> side/headlight switch on my 100-6.  The current lock nut I have is round, but
> my 100-6 would have had a hexagonal nut to match the hex nut on the wiper
> switch.  It's a weird thread and not metric (British pipe maybe?).  I have
> exhausted all of my sources and am now looking to the group to help me out.
> Does anyone have something like this and if so, would they be interested in
> parting with it?  Thanks!
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 03:53:37 2014
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To: "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <5DCEDE5F-BA7F-468F-8938-2A70FD8D71CC@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 21:44:41 +1100
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Darin

As per  Kees advice I have a number of Lucas switches  with various nuts etc 
attached. I would need to check exactly what is there before confirming I 
can assist with your request .

Can you please send a photo of what your after and the nut sizes and I will 
check in my garage to see if I can assist

Regards
Graeme J Molony
3 Marabou Mews
Mount Martha
Vic 3934
Ph (03). 5973 4885
Mob. 0417 568 621
Email: molony@dodo.com.au
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 03, 2014 4:02 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut


> Hello all,
>
>    Simply, I am looking for the hexagonal nut that would be on the PPGI
> side/headlight switch on my 100-6.  The current lock nut I have is round, 
> but
> my 100-6 would have had a hexagonal nut to match the hex nut on the wiper
> switch.  It's a weird thread and not metric (British pipe maybe?).  I have
> exhausted all of my sources and am now looking to the group to help me 
> out.
> Does anyone have something like this and if so, would they be interested 
> in
> parting with it?  Thanks!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/molony@dodo.com.au
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 08:23:08 2014
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From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: "'Austin Healey'" <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>, "'Richard Kahn'"
	<tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
References: <COL127-W64AF49801C6EC6A56E6F3A4CB0@phx.gbl>
	<CA+QDXmCWgtL3HxY93FRH6ziLAyfByBDR5qLJdPcgGyJihJ9p7A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 07:20:56 -0800
thread-index: AQI3F5+jY2enDQhh4o1udVc8x3rLtAHb+yL6mZQfg8A=
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Rich,

I hear it is legal in Colorado to get the green stuff.  Happy Friday

Tracy

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Austin Healey
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2014 12:10 PM
To: Richard Kahn
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff

Green stuff is ok. It will cause a bit quicker wear, but not that much.

Gergo


2014/1/2 Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>

> Where is green stuff available? Does it cause disc wear? I've heard of 
> it but not much.
> Thanks,
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 13:43:24 2014
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References: <5DCEDE5F-BA7F-468F-8938-2A70FD8D71CC@yahoo.com>
	<4BCEAE9813224FED86AA549FBA436CE3@Study>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 12:36:25 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Graeme Molony <molony@dodo.com.au>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Darin,

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner but I've been out of town almost
non-stop on business.  Here's what I've determined so far...

The nuts in question for the WIPER and SIDE HEAD switches are a thin
profile, chrome plated brass hex nut that is a British 5/16" W or 3/8" BSF
size.  However the threads are a 3/8" X 24 TPI which makes them a UNF size,
or SAE, ANF or NF as you prefer.

I've attached photos of the switches from my BN1.

Cheers,

Curt


On Fri, Jan 3, 2014 at 2:44 AM, Graeme Molony <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:

> Darin
>
> As per  Kees advice I have a number of Lucas switches  with various nuts
> etc attached. I would need to check exactly what is there before confirming
> I can assist with your request .
>
> Can you please send a photo of what your after and the nut sizes and I
> will check in my garage to see if I can assist
>
> Regards
> Graeme J Molony
> 3 Marabou Mews
> Mount Martha
> Vic 3934
> Ph (03). 5973 4885
> Mob. 0417 568 621
> Email: molony@dodo.com.au
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 03, 2014 4:02 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut
>
>
>  Hello all,
>>
>>    Simply, I am looking for the hexagonal nut that would be on the PPGI
>> side/headlight switch on my 100-6.  The current lock nut I have is round,
>> but
>> my 100-6 would have had a hexagonal nut to match the hex nut on the wiper
>> switch.  It's a weird thread and not metric (British pipe maybe?).  I have
>> exhausted all of my sources and am now looking to the group to help me
>> out.
>> Does anyone have something like this and if so, would they be interested
>> in
>> parting with it?  Thanks!
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/molony@dodo.com.au
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_7808.JPG]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 15:00:02 2014
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 15:55:50 -0600
From: patrick williams <2x2doc@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Can you get the  green stuff pads for early 3000's?  They don't show them
available at the EBC website.

Pat Williams
1960 BT-7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 15:39:57 2014
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References: <CAPHe+_aM4su-zjAHWnybtPtSq1HmdwtnznJvotcR0JSK-ULGFg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 17:37:43 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: patrick williams <2x2doc@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Try Summit Racing
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ebc-dp2141/overview/year/1962/make/austin-healey/model/3000
I searched on '62 'cause that's what I've got.
Mike Tobin
On Jan 3, 2014 4:58 PM, "patrick williams" <2x2doc@gmail.com> wrote:

> Can you get the  green stuff pads for early 3000's?  They don't show them
> available at the EBC website.
>
> Pat Williams
> 1960 BT-7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbt71@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 16:02:30 2014
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Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2014 17:54:47 -0500
From: "Eoin Galvin (eoingalvin)" <eoingalvin@cogeco.ca>
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] What lights do I buy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi all.B 
I am about to purchase two of the 576 lamps for the front of my car (BN1). They will be mounted on a badge bar. B I live in a semi rural area and when coming home from club meetings/outings I usually end up driving on country roads with no public lights. Depending on the time of the year I see my fair share of deer and coyotes crossing the road. Ideally I would like to be able to see a few feet off each side of the road. Which lights should I buy for my needs the fog lights or the spot lights. Or do I get one of each. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Wishing you all a happy and healthy new year.B 
Eoin Galvin.B 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 17:18:49 2014
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Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2014 11:11:23 +1100
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
	more information
Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healey restoration update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys, the link below is to the latest on my Nash Healey restoration, 
making progress!
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/nash/nash12.html
Cheers
Larry Varley
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 17:48:28 2014
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From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <201401031613156.SM43036@wavecable.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 16:42:11 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nash Healey restoration update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would love to sit in Larry's shop and watch him work with metal and weld. 
Very impressive.

thanks very much for keeping your web site up and sharing your progress.

Jerry 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 17:49:30 2014
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From: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
To: "Curtis Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
References: <5DCEDE5F-BA7F-468F-8938-2A70FD8D71CC@yahoo.com><4BCEAE9813224FED86AA549FBA436CE3@Study>
	<CAJKrNeSCOno5dirMBcsOL93FQBVAC=UZPyBLWmKPX5ZxYkWrAQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 11:47:06 +1100
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks  for the info Curtis

I will check in my garage when I get home tomorrow and see if I have the one
that Darin is looking for

Cheers

Graeme M
Mount Martha
Aust.
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
  From: Curtis Arndt
  To: Graeme Molony
  Cc: Darin Graber ; Healey List
  Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2014 7:36 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut


  Darin,


  Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner but I've been out of town almost
non-stop on business.  Here's what I've determined so far...


  The nuts in question for the WIPER and SIDE HEAD switches are a thin
profile, chrome plated brass hex nut that is a British 5/16" W or 3/8" BSF
size.  However the threads are a 3/8" X 24 TPI which makes them a UNF size, or
SAE, ANF or NF as you prefer.


  I've attached photos of the switches from my BN1.


  Cheers,


  Curt




  On Fri, Jan 3, 2014 at 2:44 AM, Graeme Molony <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:

    Darin

    As per  Kees advice I have a number of Lucas switches  with various nuts
etc attached. I would need to check exactly what is there before confirming I
can assist with your request .

    Can you please send a photo of what your after and the nut sizes and I
will check in my garage to see if I can assist

    Regards
    Graeme J Molony
    3 Marabou Mews
    Mount Martha
    Vic 3934
    Ph (03). 5973 4885
    Mob. 0417 568 621
    Email: molony@dodo.com.au
    ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
    To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
    Sent: Friday, January 03, 2014 4:02 PM
    Subject: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut



      Hello all,

         Simply, I am looking for the hexagonal nut that would be on the PPGI
      side/headlight switch on my 100-6.  The current lock nut I have is
round, but
      my 100-6 would have had a hexagonal nut to match the hex nut on the
wiper
      switch.  It's a weird thread and not metric (British pipe maybe?).  I
have
      exhausted all of my sources and am now looking to the group to help me
out.
      Does anyone have something like this and if so, would they be interested
in
      parting with it?  Thanks!
      _______________________________________________
      Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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      Healeys@autox.team.net
      http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 18:03:52 2014
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Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2014 18:58:07 -0600 (CST)
From: llennep@verizon.net
To: eoingalvin@cogeco.ca, Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] What lights do I buy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Eoin,
 
My .02 is a pair of the driving (long range) lights.  Though they have a sharp beam they do cover the width some.  Also consider halogen sealed beam for your headlights.
 
Keith


On 01/03/14, Eoin Galvin (eoingalvin) wrote:

Hi all.B 
I am about to purchase two of the 576 lamps for the front of my car (BN1). They will be mounted on a badge bar. B I live in a semi rural area and when coming home from club meetings/outings I usually end up driving on country roads with no public lights. Depending on the time of the year I see my fair share of deer and coyotes crossing the road. Ideally I would like to be able to see a few feet off each side of the road. Which lights should I buy for my needs the fog lights or the spot lights. Or do I get one of each. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Wishing you all a happy and healthy new year.B 
Eoin Galvin.B 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 19:40:57 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 18:38:12 -0800
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone have an extra wavy spring washer for the ignition switch? I need
one. The switch just spins in the hole. I know it's supposed to have a flat
spot to key the switch, but mine is more roundish...
Contact off list for my mail address.
Thanks

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Fri, Jan 3, 2014 at 4:47 PM, Graeme Molony <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:

> Thanks  for the info Curtis
>
> I will check in my garage when I get home tomorrow and see if I have the
> one
> that Darin is looking for
>
> Cheers
>
> Graeme M
> Mount Martha
> Aust.
> BJ8
> ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Curtis Arndt
>   To: Graeme Molony
>   Cc: Darin Graber ; Healey List
>   Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2014 7:36 AM
>   Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut
>
>
>   Darin,
>
>
>   Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner but I've been out of town
> almost
> non-stop on business.  Here's what I've determined so far...
>
>
>   The nuts in question for the WIPER and SIDE HEAD switches are a thin
> profile, chrome plated brass hex nut that is a British 5/16" W or 3/8" BSF
> size.  However the threads are a 3/8" X 24 TPI which makes them a UNF
> size, or
> SAE, ANF or NF as you prefer.
>
>
>   I've attached photos of the switches from my BN1.
>
>
>   Cheers,
>
>
>   Curt
>
>
>
>
>   On Fri, Jan 3, 2014 at 2:44 AM, Graeme Molony <molony@dodo.com.au>
> wrote:
>
>     Darin
>
>     As per  Kees advice I have a number of Lucas switches  with various
> nuts
> etc attached. I would need to check exactly what is there before
> confirming I
> can assist with your request .
>
>     Can you please send a photo of what your after and the nut sizes and I
> will check in my garage to see if I can assist
>
>     Regards
>     Graeme J Molony
>     3 Marabou Mews
>     Mount Martha
>     Vic 3934
>     Ph (03). 5973 4885
>     Mob. 0417 568 621
>     Email: molony@dodo.com.au
>     ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darin Graber" <
> dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
>     To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>     Sent: Friday, January 03, 2014 4:02 PM
>     Subject: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut
>
>
>
>       Hello all,
>
>          Simply, I am looking for the hexagonal nut that would be on the
> PPGI
>       side/headlight switch on my 100-6.  The current lock nut I have is
> round, but
>       my 100-6 would have had a hexagonal nut to match the hex nut on the
> wiper
>       switch.  It's a weird thread and not metric (British pipe maybe?).  I
> have
>       exhausted all of my sources and am now looking to the group to help
> me
> out.
>       Does anyone have something like this and if so, would they be
> interested
> in
>       parting with it?  Thanks!
>       _______________________________________________
>       Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>       Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>       Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>       Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>       Healeys@autox.team.net
>       http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
>       Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/molony@dodo.com.au
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
>     Healeys@autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 20:38:51 2014
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: patrick williams <2x2doc@gmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 19:36:41 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick, I just ordered a set from Auto Accessories Garage
(AutoAccessoriesGarage.com) . They did not charge tax and free shipping and
give a 5% discount. Came to $89.83. Summit did not seem to have it. The Green
Stuff part number is DP2141 for earlier 3000's.
Rich Kahn

> Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 15:55:50 -0600
> From: 2x2doc@gmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] green stuff pads
>
> Can you get the  green stuff pads for early 3000's?  They don't show them
> available at the EBC website.
>
> Pat Williams
> 1960 BT-7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  3 23:18:04 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 22:15:40 -0800
References: <SNT151-DS13A3767582315E3989B5CDCECE0@phx.gbl>,
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To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Weber manifold angle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey guys,


Who's running this Redline(Ausie) manifold (Chris Dimmock?) and does the angle
cause any issues. I hear these carbs are very picky about float levels and
such...

ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/carb_angle.jpg

Thanks,
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 00:31:13 2014
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Wilko2'" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
References: <SNT151-DS13A3767582315E3989B5CDCECE0@phx.gbl>,
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Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 17:28:28 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac8JFIAWgmZGVgwpRLifCHBVLXC+RwABCgUQ
Content-Language: en-au
Cc: "'healeys @autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber manifold angle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I started with this manifold on my RHD BT7. It set the carbs up on an angle
of 16Deg so that it cleared the footwell and fitted under the shroud
(because the manifold is short).Would probably also help on LHD cars.
 The car was never happy at this time so I made some aluminium wedges to
reduce the angle. This also entailed mods to the footwell.
The overhead linkages were very fussy, and in the end I tired of the setup
and retired it to the back of the garage. I then bought longer Denis Welch
manifolds which were 12deg (so they said) but after a couple of years again
had to utilise the wedges and now runs very good. I never had any real
problems with the angle-all I believe it does is alter the fuel level in the
'bowls' which may cause a bit of occasional 'fluffing' on corners.
I did not wish to cut up a good shroud for the inspection area so it can be
a bit of a pain to work on front carb without removal. DW said the manifolds
didn't need support posts but I made some as the runners were longer than
the original manifolds.
Attached find photos of Redline manifold and my present setup which will be
stripped from the list posting


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Wilko2
Sent: Saturday, 4 January 2014 4:16 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] Weber manifold angle

Hey guys,


Who's running this Redline(Ausie) manifold (Chris Dimmock?) and does the
angle
cause any issues. I hear these carbs are very picky about float levels and
such...

ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/carb_angle.jpg

Thanks,

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1040204.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1040205.JPG]
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 02:46:41 2014
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	<F86886F5-6188-432F-86A5-F27989D9CD83@cox.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 20:42:28 +1100
To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber manifold angle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey Wilco,
Yes. I run an original Warnerford triple weber manifold. There are now 2
Warnerford manifolds. The "original" was around 1961 - 2008 or so. There is
now a different one. The "modern" one.
My Warnerford manifold was fitted to my Healey in about 1969.
It had about 15 degrees of manifold angle.
In 1998 when my car was rebuilt, we changed it to about 7 or 8 degrees by
machining both faces.
It's fine. Short manifold = fast throttle response.
I also had a set of patterns for a 1970's replica of a works triple manifold.
I gave this pattern to a good mate, Neil Napier, who made up about 10 sets,
complete with the works type supports. Shorter than the factory one....
I digress...
The "original" 15 degrees Warnerford manifold was fine. Machined to be a 7
degree manifold - perfect.
The new "modern" Warnerford - no idea. Never held one in my hand.
No body work required.  Short = fast throttle response.
No reason or intention of changing.
Email me off list if you are considering one, and I'll give you a couple of
tips...
Best
Chris
Pic here http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_enginebay.html


Sent from my iPhone

> On 4 Jan 2014, at 5:15 pm, Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
>
>
> Who's running this Redline(Ausie) manifold (Chris Dimmock?) and does the
angle
> cause any issues. I hear these carbs are very picky about float levels and
> such...
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 03:22:15 2014
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Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 02:19:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Two Greats Meet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.wimp.com/driverstar/

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 06:30:57 2014
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From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 08:28:39 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello, Healeyphiles -

 

I received an inquiry from Esquire Magazine with a question I can't answer.
I've never been much into the racing part of the Healey world, but some of
you might be able to help.  The issue is:

 

"I am trying to confirm if the Austin-Healey or Nash-Healey automobiles that
competed in Le Mans in the mid-20th century had wooden steering wheels like
some of the other racing cars of that time did."

 

Anecdotal responses are welcome, but it would be nice if some reference
could be provided to support "yes" or "no".

 

Thanks!

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 07:01:05 2014
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Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 05:58:50 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Steve,

Here's a quote from the restoration of NOJ 393, the LeMans crash
car:  


The original wood rim duralium steering wheel has been carefully
refurbished ensuring its patina was retained. 
http://classiccarmag.net/austin-healey-special-test-car-and-100s/  and Mike
Lempert's history of the Healey wood wheel: 
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/100s

 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To:
healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2014 8:28 AM
Subject:
[Healeys] Question
 

Hello, Healeyphiles -



I received an inquiry from
Esquire Magazine with a question I can't answer.
I've never been much into the
racing part of the Healey world, but some of
you might be able to help.  The
issue is:



"I am trying to confirm if the Austin-Healey or Nash-Healey
automobiles that
competed in Le Mans in the mid-20th century had wooden
steering wheels like
some of the other racing cars of that time did."
Anecdotal responses are welcome, but it would be nice if some reference
could
be provided to support "yes" or "no".



Thanks!



Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 09:03:16 2014
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From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: "'Michael MacLean'" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1388830798.71594.YahooMailNeo@web181105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 08:00:59 -0800
Thread-Index: AQMyFMp0pdaxklqJs8eSq7nqxxK97ZeuopeA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Two Greats Meet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks a ton for sharing.  Two of my favorite F1 pilots

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2014 2:20 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Two Greats Meet

http://www.wimp.com/driverstar/

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 09:40:23 2014
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To: rrengineer.mike@att.net, healeys@autox.team.net
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Very cool. Thanks. Wish it were longer, would love to hear more.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
 
 
In a message dated 1/4/2014 2:20:41 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
rrengineer.mike@att.net writes:

http://www.wimp.com/driverstar/

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60  AN5
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 11:34:12 2014
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Just noticed a Healey Abbott for sale on US ebay.  Item number 151202319590.  No financial interest.

Aloha

Perry



Sent from Windows Mail
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 14:36:57 2014
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Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 14:34:46 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Two Greats Meet
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Thank you for sharing. Would like to have seen and heard more from this
meeting.

Norman

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 14:52:25 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'BJ8Healeys'" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <009c01cf0950$e17ccd40$a47667c0$@rr.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 08:50:07 +1100
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Question
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G'day Steve

Interesting question!

The answer is no and yes. Looking at colour photos of Le Mans 1953 with two
Nash Healeys and three Austin-Healeys (NOJ 391, NOJ 392 and NOJ 393) the
answer is no, as both marques appear to be running standard black steering
wheels (see P26 & p27 of Austin-Healey by Bill Piggott ISBN 185960 8507).
However looking at a start line photo of two Nash-Healeys and two
Austin-Healeys on P26 the steering wheel of the Nash-Healey (No 10) furthest
away from the camera does have a brown look about it while the other is
definitely black.

Then when NOJ 393 ran in the ill-feted 1955 Le Mans event it did have a
wooden steering wheel.

If you don't have the book I am happy to scan the photos and send them to
you.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:hea!leys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Sunday, 5 January 2014 12:29 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Question

Hello, Healeyphiles -

 

I received an inquiry from Esquire Magazine with a question I can't answer.
I've never been much into the racing part of the Healey world, but some of
you might be able to help.  The issue is:

 

"I am trying to confirm if the Austin-Healey or Nash-Healey automobiles that
competed in Le Mans in the mid-20th century had wooden steering wheels like
some of the other racing cars of that time did."

 

Anecdotal responses are welcome, but it would be nice if some reference
could be provided to support "yes" or "no".

 

Thanks!

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 14:53:44 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
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References: <20140104183402.4540442F0D@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 08:51:28 +1100
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Abbott on Ebay
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G'day Perry

Not again!

This car has been around the traps for some years and each time it comes up
the price rises accordingly. Hope someone buys it and gives it the
restoration it deserves.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeyguy@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, 5 January 2014 5:27 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Abbott on Ebay

Just noticed a Healey Abbott for sale on US ebay.  Item number 151202319590.
No financial interest.

Aloha

Perry
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 15:07:15 2014
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From: "Mike Lempert" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17.1387911603.18429.healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 17:05:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels, Oh my!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Healey listers. I have not participated here in quite some time, but 
every several months I take a peak in a sampling of digests. I just did that 
today and happened to see the Derrington steering wheel discussed. Since 
there was a post where someone pointed folks to a blog of mine on the 
subject, I could ignore, but thought I would address some comments in the 
hope of clearing up understandings. And I should also thank several people 
for the kind commends regarding my work.  I have copied below text from 
three messages that contained errors that I thought I should address.  Since 
list messages have limits in size, I have made that response a blog on my 
site. Please go here for my response: 
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/healeylistersblog

Regards,
Mike Lempert

> Regarding someone suggesting the Moto-Lita wheels Moss sells as possibly
> being incorrect, weren't the Moto-Lita wheels period dealer or owner
> installed accessories on the production big Healeys? And who's to say 
> which
> styles - spoke angles, diameters, rivet numbers, etc., the dealers would
> choose to sell back in the day?
--------------------------------
> I checked the Mota Lita sight after my initial email and Derek is correct
> the image of the Derrington Wheel they have on their Web site is a dead
> image of the original wheel with the correct  spoke spacing
>
>  The only discernable difference I could see from the original wheel was 
> the
> number of rivets holding the timber hand grips on the  wheel  have been
> reduced by 6 to 12 rather than the original wheels 18
-------------------------------------
>Mike Lempert's wheels are no doubt very nice but its the Moto Lita  that 
>are
>the accurate  design and representative of the ones used back in the day.
>Moto Lita make many different styles and if people have one that does not
>have the three equally spaced spokes then they have bought the wrong model.
-----------------------------------------
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	with plain [98.139.211.125]) by smtp115.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with SMTP;
	04 Jan 2014 15:16:44 -0800 PST
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2014 15:16:41 -0800
From: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: Norman <norman.hendry@shaw.ca>, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Two Greats Meet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It looks like it was just an excerpt from a longer recording. B Maybe someone knows what this is from.
Mike

-------- Original message --------
From: Norman <norman.hendry@shaw.ca> 
Date:01/04/2014  13:34  (GMT-08:00) 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Cc: rrengineer.mike@att.net 
Subject: Re: Two Greats Meet 

Thank you for sharing. Would like to have seen and heard more from this meeting.
B 
Norman


 	
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 20:44:28 2014
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References: <5DCEDE5F-BA7F-468F-8938-2A70FD8D71CC@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 19:41:42 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Darin,

Do you own a thread gage?  You might want to buy one, they're
inexpensive, and check the TPI yourself.  However, as I've written in my
previous email, the thin hex nuts are a standard UNF or garden variety SAE
fine thread.  It's the nonstandard hex size that will prevent you from
finding this nut at any hardware supplier.  Used off of an old switch is
your best option.

Cheers,

Curt

On Thursday, January 2, 2014, Darin Graber wrote:

> Hello all,
>
>     Simply, I am looking for the hexagonal nut that would be on the PPGI
> side/headlight switch on my 100-6.  The current lock nut I have is round,
> but
> my 100-6 would have had a hexagonal nut to match the hex nut on the wiper
> switch.  It's a weird thread and not metric (British pipe maybe?).  I have
> exhausted all of my sources and am now looking to the group to help me out.
> Does anyone have something like this and if so, would they be interested in
> parting with it?  Thanks!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 22:52:37 2014
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From: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
To: "Curtis Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com>, "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
References: <5DCEDE5F-BA7F-468F-8938-2A70FD8D71CC@yahoo.com>
	<CAJKrNeSd9tHuXzPv4Xbpk=LLy5pBSq_KRzBxo2OHv7A8Q6ePZg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 16:50:07 +1100
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Darin

I checked my garage when I got home  late today.You might be out of luck as 
it appears that of the switches, nuts etc that I have that 95% of them are 
off later models (BJ8's etc)

I did however find 2 chromed hexagonal nuts of the type you are after but 
based on Curts advice /measurements I think they may be too large and I 
don't have a head light switch to check it against.

The chromed nuts I have are 13/16" wide approx 1/8" inch deep with a thread 
width of 5/8" and appear to be 24 threads per inch. Sorry I don't have a 
thread gauge.

I checked with a mate who has an early  BT7 (1959 model) and his Head Light 
switch also has the round nut with the recesses to tighten so no joy there.

Can you check the size of the nut you require and if the ones I have are of 
any use would be happy to send you one

Alternatively guys any idea what dash switch these nuts actually fit.

Cheers
Graeme M
Mount Martha
Aust
BJ8
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Curtis Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2014 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash hexagonal lock nut


> Darin,
>
> Do you own a thread gage?  You might want to buy one, they're
> inexpensive, and check the TPI yourself.  However, as I've written in my
> previous email, the thin hex nuts are a standard UNF or garden variety SAE
> fine thread.  It's the nonstandard hex size that will prevent you from
> finding this nut at any hardware supplier.  Used off of an old switch is
> your best option.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Thursday, January 2, 2014, Darin Graber wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>>     Simply, I am looking for the hexagonal nut that would be on the PPGI
>> side/headlight switch on my 100-6.  The current lock nut I have is round,
>> but
>> my 100-6 would have had a hexagonal nut to match the hex nut on the wiper
>> switch.  It's a weird thread and not metric (British pipe maybe?).  I 
>> have
>> exhausted all of my sources and am now looking to the group to help me 
>> out.
>> Does anyone have something like this and if so, would they be interested 
>> in
>> parting with it?  Thanks!
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/molony@dodo.com.au
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  5 02:38:48 2014
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Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2014 10:36:23 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20140104183407.CEB14403F3@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Abbott on Ebay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks rather sound although it is always hard to tell from pictures. 
Delightful Riley engine. These were excellent machines with double 
camshafts fitted high in the block.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


healeyguy@aol.com schreef op 4-1-2014 19:27:
> Just noticed a Healey Abbott for sale on US ebay.  Item number 151202319590.  No financial interest.
>
> Aloha
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Windows Mail
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
>
> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4259 / Virusdatabase: 3658/6975 - datum van uitgifte: 01/04/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  5 12:29:52 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 19:21:37 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac8KS1kT2UtIX8IhQJGJ1K2Ku5RI9A==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Jetting triple Weber 45 dcoe 9s
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am trying to accumulate information in order to achieve a start point for
the jetting of 3 dcoe 9s.

I was fiddling around on the net a few minutes ago and downloaded a page out
of a book. It is page 190?, headed "Appendix 2 Conversion equipment jet
setting list". The sixth row appears to be Austin-Healey 3000 Mk 2 & 3.
However, it is illegible. I've photoshopped it inside out and every way, but
it's just no good.

Does anyone have this book and can they send me the info &/or a scan with
guidance as to what the column headings are?

 

Of course, I'd be most pleased to hear how your DCEs are jetted, bearing in
mind that I'll be using 9s.

 

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  5 13:02:56 2014
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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 15:00:38 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jetting triple Weber 45 dcoe 9s
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Simon,
I have a book that gives the following for  3000 MkII or MkIII
Carb : 45DCOE9
Chokes : 36
Aux Ven :4.5
Mains : 1.65
Emulsion : F16
Air Corr : 1.5
Idle : 55F8
Pump Jet : 45
Pump Inlet : 0
Needle Valve 2.0


Michael S
BN1 #174


On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Simon Lachlan
<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>wrote:

> I am trying to accumulate information in order to achieve a start point for
> the jetting of 3 dcoe 9s.
>
> I was fiddling around on the net a few minutes ago and downloaded a page
> out
> of a book. It is page 190?, headed "Appendix 2 Conversion equipment jet
> setting list". The sixth row appears to be Austin-Healey 3000 Mk 2 & 3.
> However, it is illegible. I've photoshopped it inside out and every way,
> but
> it's just no good.
>
> Does anyone have this book and can they send me the info &/or a scan with
> guidance as to what the column headings are?
>
>
>
> Of course, I'd be most pleased to hear how your DCEs are jetted, bearing in
> mind that I'll be using 9s.
>
>
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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>
>


-- 
All wisdom is plagiarism; only stupidity is original.
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From: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 20:58:45 -0500
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
Here's what's happening and could use some help...

Have oil pressure
I think timing was set good to TDC
Engine turns and tries to start
Getting some smoke from air cleaners
Little back firing from exhaust
Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
Have fully charged battery


Starter issue?
Timing issue?
Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?

Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
appreciated!

Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  5 19:14:07 2014
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References: <C3FE4183-8B82-494A-AD72-1FA78982D335@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 20:07:09 -0600
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like timing issue.

jerry. wall
rowlett tx. check www.aquaflodrainage.com
On Jan 5, 2014 7:58 PM, "Simon Atkinson" <satkinson1974@gmail.com> wrote:

> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>
> Have oil pressure
> I think timing was set good to TDC
> Engine turns and tries to start
> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
> Little back firing from exhaust
> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
> Have fully charged battery
>
>
> Starter issue?
> Timing issue?
> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
>
> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
> appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  5 19:18:53 2014
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Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2014 18:16:17 -0800
To: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <C3FE4183-8B82-494A-AD72-1FA78982D335@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Check to make sure the distributor drive dog is install correctly. It 
is the part between the distributor and the cam shaft. It is easy to 
install it 180 degrees off.

John Spaur
'62 BT7

At 08:58 PM 1/5/2014 -0500, Simon Atkinson wrote:
>Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
>Timing issue?
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2014 18:22:20 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop hoist and storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Many thanks to everyone that helped me with ideas to create a hardtop 
hoist and storage device.

I built a four sheave pulley system for about $50. I sent a write-up 
with pictures to John Sims for posting on his website.

What would we do without him.

Yes Ed, I will sent it to you too as soon as you send me your email 
address. :-)

John Spaur
San Jose, CA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  5 19:30:06 2014
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	<6.2.3.4.2.20140105181424.02115ba0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 18:23:20 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

quick way to tell if it is 180 out on ignition timing.
After repeated attempts to start the engine put your hand on the exhaust
manifold.  Is it slightly warm?  If the answer is yes you are firing at BDC
not TDC.
Your comment about slight smoke from the carbs would tend to confirm that.
Rick


On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 6:16 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Check to make sure the distributor drive dog is install correctly. It is
> the part between the distributor and the cam shaft. It is easy to install
> it 180 degrees off.
>
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
>
>
> At 08:58 PM 1/5/2014 -0500, Simon Atkinson wrote:
>
>> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
>> Timing issue?
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  5 19:31:10 2014
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References: <ARzF1n00Y0NyJgq01RzGqw>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Double check that TDC. Could be 180 out at distributor, or how you located it.
Also check where the distributor aims the plug wires. About 2 o'clock if I
remember right.

May seem silly, but triple check firing order.



On Jan 5, 2014, at 5:58 PM, Simon Atkinson wrote:

> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>
> Have oil pressure
> I think timing was set good to TDC
> Engine turns and tries to start
> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
> Little back firing from exhaust
> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
> Have fully charged battery
>
>
> Starter issue?
> Timing issue?
> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  5 19:44:41 2014
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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 21:41:53 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's some tricks.
Rotate the engine until the rotor is approaching the #1 plug lead terminal
on the distributor cap. (in the process making sure that the rotor is
actually turning)
Remove #1 plug and with a piece of heater hose see if you can blow air into
the spark plug hole. (If you can't then  the ignition timing is not 180
degrees out.)
On the same up stroke check that the timing mark is just before TDC when
the points open. (Easily checked with a 12 volt test light between ground
and the distributor LT terminal.  With the ignition on the light comes on
when the points open.).
Again when that occurs the rotor should be pointing at #1 cylinder on the
distributor cap.
With the engine still on that #1 cylinder position check that the 2 valve
rockers for #6 cylinder are both partially depressed. i.e both valves for
#6 cylinder are both open a little. (If they are then the valve timing is
pretty close.)
Drain the radiator and fill it with really hot water.
Cross fingers...Start engine...

Michael S
BN1 #174



On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:58 PM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>wrote:

> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>
> Have oil pressure
> I think timing was set good to TDC
> Engine turns and tries to start
> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
> Little back firing from exhaust
> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
> Have fully charged battery
>
>
> Starter issue?
> Timing issue?
> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
>
> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
> appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
All wisdom is plagiarism; only stupidity is original.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  5 20:00:08 2014
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References: <1535B7E4-BC5D-46FD-9ECB-3448C6CE5CB6@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 18:57:52 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Along this very line, make sure the distributor rotor rotates the same
direction that the wires are arranged on the cap.
I've scratched my head for a while on a couple of tow ins where the cap
went 1-5-3-6-2-4 clockwise, but the rotor turned COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.
Rick


On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 6:28 PM, Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:

>
> May seem silly, but triple check firing order.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  5 21:01:49 2014
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	<0MYY008APO98GTH0@vms173017.mailsrvcs.net> for healeys@autox.team.net; 
	Sun, 05 Jan 2014 21:55:57 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'john spaur'" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20140105181708.02115520@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2014 22:55:56 -0500
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQKynf8VlPmnPipE3itfxaP7NGjVQ5iv6img
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hardtop hoist and storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just posted it. It is on the technical page, Body section. Thanks. I also
have another one that I am working on and hope to be able to post it in a
day or two.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2014 9:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop hoist and storage

Many thanks to everyone that helped me with ideas to create a hardtop hoist
and storage device.

I built a four sheave pulley system for about $50. I sent a write-up with
pictures to John Sims for posting on his website.

What would we do without him.

Yes Ed, I will sent it to you too as soon as you send me your email address.
:-)

John Spaur
San Jose, CA
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  5 23:58:17 2014
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References: <C3FE4183-8B82-494A-AD72-1FA78982D335@gmail.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 17:54:55 +1100
To: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Aside from all the good advice you have already been given, I'd check the
earth strap. Take it off the chassis, grind the nice fresh paint off, clean
the paint out of the thread, and refit. Some of that conductive grease is
always good....
Then see if it starts and runs.
My engine was effectively earthing via the accelerator cable...
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 6 Jan 2014, at 12:58 pm, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>
> Have oil pressure
> I think timing was set good to TDC
> Engine turns and tries to start
> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
> Little back firing from exhaust
> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
> Have fully charged battery
>
>
> Starter issue?
> Timing issue?
> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
>
> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
> appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 00:10:18 2014
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References: <C3FE4183-8B82-494A-AD72-1FA78982D335@gmail.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 18:07:58 +1100
To: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On the 180 degrees out issue, is your car a BJ8??
With a 25D6 distributor??
There are 2 caps available - both  original Lucas - that both fit a Lucas 25D6
distributor. But one or them is 180 degrees out for a BJ8, and was designed
for a Wolsley sedan.
If you have accidentally used a Wolsley cap, you would instinctively fit the
distributor 180 degrees wrong, so the fitted distributor "looked" right.
Is the distributor low tension plastic connector "under" the plug leads, or on
the "back" of your distributor???
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 6 Jan 2014, at 12:58 pm, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>
> Have oil pressure
> I think timing was set good to TDC
> Engine turns and tries to start
> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
> Little back firing from exhaust
> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
> Have fully charged battery
>
>
> Starter issue?
> Timing issue?
> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
>
> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
> appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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	UTC
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2014 23:11:10 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop hoist and storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John Sims posted a link to text and photos of the lift I made with 
input from the list members.

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/hardtophoist.pdf

Thank you Mr. Sims!

John Spaur
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 04:48:32 2014
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Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 11:39:24 +0000 (GMT)
From: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi I asked this question a few weeks ago but only got a partial answer, can
anyone help me with the size of the plug and the thread type, as i am trying
to order a magnatic drain plug for my BN1 and need to know the thread type and
size, the car is original with original sump.
 
Thanks in advance for your
help with this matter
 
Steve
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 04:50:40 2014
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References: <C3FE4183-8B82-494A-AD72-1FA78982D335@gmail.com>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 06:48:05 -0500
To: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My bet is timing--Michael


On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:58 PM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>wrote:

> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>
> Have oil pressure
> I think timing was set good to TDC
> Engine turns and tries to start
> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
> Little back firing from exhaust
> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
> Have fully charged battery
>
>
> Starter issue?
> Timing issue?
> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
>
> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
> appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 05:03:44 2014
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References: <1389008364.65383.YahooMailNeo@web87402.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 07:01:04 -0500
To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve--

I don't know the answer to your question but can propose another and
perhaps less expensive solution: I epoxied a powerful rare earth magnet
onto the inside face of the drainplug.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 6:39 AM, STEPHEN CUSS
<stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>wrote:

> Hi I asked this question a few weeks ago but only got a partial answer, can
> anyone help me with the size of the plug and the thread type, as i am
> trying
> to order a magnatic drain plug for my BN1 and need to know the thread type
> and
> size, the car is original with original sump.
>
> Thanks in advance for your
> help with this matter
>
> Steve
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 06:01:09 2014
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	<0MYZ009Z7D6IHP00@vms173017.mailsrvcs.net> for healeys@autox.team.net; 
	Mon, 06 Jan 2014 06:54:19 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "'STEPHEN CUSS'"
	<stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
References: <1389008364.65383.YahooMailNeo@web87402.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
	<CAPTa0B7dk0ousWb7W3fTdqXMirprow8H6pTuw2=uP-qBiRwmTw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2014 07:54:17 -0500
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQD1DvV+ER2ftc5VF0Fnh34TDQAxuQHfBdw3nBymkCA=
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This works for me: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RX4C2
I just put it on the outside of the drain plug.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 7:01 AM
To: STEPHEN CUSS
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread

Steve--

I don't know the answer to your question but can propose another and perhaps
less expensive solution: I epoxied a powerful rare earth magnet onto the
inside face of the drainplug.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 6:39 AM, STEPHEN CUSS
<stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>wrote:

> Hi I asked this question a few weeks ago but only got a partial 
> answer, can anyone help me with the size of the plug and the thread 
> type, as i am trying to order a magnatic drain plug for my BN1 and 
> need to know the thread type and size, the car is original with 
> original sump.
>
> Thanks in advance for your
> help with this matter
>
> Steve
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 06:32:41 2014
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	s06DPwGw027568; Mon, 6 Jan 2014 13:25:59 +0000
From: "Robert F. Begani" <rfbegani@speakeasy.net>
To: "'john spaur'" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20140105230856.0203a178@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 08:25:58 -0500
Thread-Index: AQLk3MtCYl1oSMr61zWzPQHoTVpIw5hMCvBA
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hardtop hoist and storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John:

Yes, you got it right and a lot more permanent and logical for the seize and
weight of your hardtop.  The hard top for a Jeep Wrangler required a 4 point
lift.  I still have that harness and will use it to lift my 8 foot
inflatable to the ceiling of the garage in Florida.

Great pictures and description.

Bob Begani  

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 2:11 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop hoist and storage

John Sims posted a link to text and photos of the lift I made with input
from the list members.

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/hardtophoist.pdf

Thank you Mr. Sims!

John Spaur
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani@speakeasy.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 07:04:37 2014
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From: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 09:02:11 -0500
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all for the suggestions!!! Guess I'll have to pull the distributor
and check everything. For those that asked it is a 59 BT7 with a new petronix
electronic distributor. Pretty sure I have electrical wiring correct.

How do you know if the distributor drive dog is off 180deg?

Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248



> On Jan 6, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> My bet is timing--Michael
>
>
>> On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:58 PM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
wrote:
>> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
>> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>>
>> Have oil pressure
>> I think timing was set good to TDC
>> Engine turns and tries to start
>> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
>> Little back firing from exhaust
>> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
>> Have fully charged battery
>>
>>
>> Starter issue?
>> Timing issue?
>> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
>>
>> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
>> appreciated!
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Simon
>> Cell 860-324-0248
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 07:19:17 2014
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References: <C3FE4183-8B82-494A-AD72-1FA78982D335@gmail.com>
	<CAPTa0B7Nf_MDFYOHRFRwoXRf+6YChXAU+wjNnYnrtqzGtEVsng@mail.gmail.com>
	<1C4A6579-41CD-4947-9D74-9C4FD205539E@gmail.com>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 09:10:08 -0500
To: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon--

When the rotor tip is pointed at #1 cylinder both the intake and exhaust
valves should be closed.  A quick look under the valve cover can verify
whether or not this is the case.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 9:02 AM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>wrote:

> Thanks to all for the suggestions!!! Guess I'll have to pull the
> distributor
> and check everything. For those that asked it is a 59 BT7 with a new
> petronix
> electronic distributor. Pretty sure I have electrical wiring correct.
>
> How do you know if the distributor drive dog is off 180deg?
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
>
>
>
> > On Jan 6, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > My bet is timing--Michael
> >
> >
> >> On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:58 PM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com
> >
> wrote:
> >> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No
> go....
> >> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
> >>
> >> Have oil pressure
> >> I think timing was set good to TDC
> >> Engine turns and tries to start
> >> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
> >> Little back firing from exhaust
> >> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
> >> Have fully charged battery
> >>
> >>
> >> Starter issue?
> >> Timing issue?
> >> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
> >>
> >> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
> >> appreciated!
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Simon
> >> Cell 860-324-0248
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 07:19:54 2014
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 09:14:14 -0500
To: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon--

In my last post re finding whether or not the distributor is 180 out I
should have included the statement "with the #1 piston at TDC".  So in
addition to checking the valves you will also want to see whether or not
the #1 piston is at the top of its travel.  If it is and the valves are
closed you are good to go.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 9:10 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>wrote:

> Simon--
>
> When the rotor tip is pointed at #1 cylinder both the intake and exhaust
> valves should be closed.  A quick look under the valve cover can verify
> whether or not this is the case.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 9:02 AM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Thanks to all for the suggestions!!! Guess I'll have to pull the
>> distributor
>> and check everything. For those that asked it is a 59 BT7 with a new
>> petronix
>> electronic distributor. Pretty sure I have electrical wiring correct.
>>
>> How do you know if the distributor drive dog is off 180deg?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Simon
>> Cell 860-324-0248
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Jan 6, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > My bet is timing--Michael
>> >
>> >
>> >> On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:58 PM, Simon Atkinson <
>> satkinson1974@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No
>> go....
>> >> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>> >>
>> >> Have oil pressure
>> >> I think timing was set good to TDC
>> >> Engine turns and tries to start
>> >> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
>> >> Little back firing from exhaust
>> >> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
>> >> Have fully charged battery
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Starter issue?
>> >> Timing issue?
>> >> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
>> >>
>> >> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
>> >> appreciated!
>> >>
>> >> Thanks,
>> >> Simon
>> >> Cell 860-324-0248
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >>
>> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >>
>> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 07:34:37 2014
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Simon Atkinson'" <satkinson1974@gmail.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <C3FE4183-8B82-494A-AD72-1FA78982D335@gmail.com><CAPTa0B7Nf_MDFYOHRFRwoXRf+6YChXAU+wjNnYnrtqzGtEVsng@mail.gmail.com>
	<1C4A6579-41CD-4947-9D74-9C4FD205539E@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 07:28:03 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac8K5/RVK+0vTj5qSSqgW+HF26Tn7gAApuHw
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The dog gear will be "out of correct factory" position if the driving dog
doesn't match with the receiver end of the distributor. They are off set and
in theory can't be miss-aligned. It's the driving gear that can be inserted
"out of time" However, so long as the rotor points to the right wire at the
right time it can be in several positions.. The rotation of the dist. may
hit the block (vacuum pot) and thus the "factory" position.
 With the Pertronix unit, check that the spark is seen at or very near TDC.
Hold the high tension lead near a ground, rotate crank slowly until spark is
noted, then check the TDC marks..
Dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Atkinson
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 7:02 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild

Thanks to all for the suggestions!!! Guess I'll have to pull the distributor
and check everything. For those that asked it is a 59 BT7 with a new
petronix
electronic distributor. Pretty sure I have electrical wiring correct.

How do you know if the distributor drive dog is off 180deg?

Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248



> On Jan 6, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> My bet is timing--Michael
>
>
>> On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:58 PM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
wrote:
>> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
>> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>>
>> Have oil pressure
>> I think timing was set good to TDC
>> Engine turns and tries to start
>> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
>> Little back firing from exhaust
>> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
>> Have fully charged battery
>>
>>
>> Starter issue?
>> Timing issue?
>> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
>>
>> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
>> appreciated!
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Simon
>> Cell 860-324-0248
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 07:35:30 2014
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Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2014 09:30:15 -0500
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>, 
	"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1389008364.65383.YahooMailNeo@web87402.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Stephen,

The drain plug for the 100 is the same one used on the 100-6 and 3000. 
Factory part number 2H4685; moss part number 328-460.  On the one I took 
out of an old pan, the threads were 3/4"-14.  The hex head was 5/8 
Whitworth.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 01/06/2014 06:39 AM, STEPHEN CUSS wrote:
> Hi I asked this question a few weeks ago but only got a partial answer, can
> anyone help me with the size of the plug and the thread type, as i am trying
> to order a magnatic drain plug for my BN1 and need to know the thread type and
> size, the car is original with original sump.
>
> Thanks in advance for your
> help with this matter
>
> Steve
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 07:55:49 2014
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References: <1389008364.65383.YahooMailNeo@web87402.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
	<52CABDF7.6090203@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 08:53:27 -0600
From: Neil Anderson <neilandcustom@gmail.com>
To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks like the Moss number is 328-461 for the magnetic drain plug, listed
under "Engine Accessories".

Neil Anderson
BT7


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 8:30 AM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Stephen,
>
> The drain plug for the 100 is the same one used on the 100-6 and 3000.
> Factory part number 2H4685; moss part number 328-460.  On the one I took
> out of an old pan, the threads were 3/4"-14.  The hex head was 5/8
> Whitworth.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
>
> On 01/06/2014 06:39 AM, STEPHEN CUSS wrote:
>
>> Hi I asked this question a few weeks ago but only got a partial answer,
>> can
>> anyone help me with the size of the plug and the thread type, as i am
>> trying
>> to order a magnatic drain plug for my BN1 and need to know the thread
>> type and
>> size, the car is original with original sump.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for your
>> help with this matter
>>
>> Steve
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/neilandcustom@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 08:07:31 2014
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 08:04:59 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac8K5/RVK+0vTj5qSSqgW+HF26Tn7gAApuHwAAGBnVA=
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The dog gear will be "out of correct factory" position if the driving dog
doesn't match with the receiver end of the distributor. They are off set and
in theory can't be miss-aligned. It's the driving gear that can be inserted
"out of time" However, so long as the rotor points to the right wire at the
right time it can be in several positions.. The rotation of the dist. may
hit the block (vacuum pot) and thus the "factory" position.
 With the Pertronix unit, check that the spark is seen at or very near TDC.
Hold the high tension lead near a ground, rotate crank slowly until spark is
noted, then check the TDC marks..
Dave
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 09:12:29 2014
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From: <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: =?utf-8?Q?Chris_Dimmock?= <austin.healey@gmail.com>, 
	=?utf-8?Q?Simon_Atkinson?= <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 15:22:45 +0000
References: <C3FE4183-8B82-494A-AD72-1FA78982D335@gmail.com>,
	<07B34F67-A701-4ACF-8F72-6CD25EE71426@gmail.com>
Cc: "=?utf-8?Q?healeys@autox.team.net?=" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Start_up_after_rebuild?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Chris, Happy New Year.




Just to clear up any confusion over that distributor cap thing.

I believe I'm correct in saying that some (not sure if all) BJ7 Healeys with the Lucas 40920A distributor (pre BJ8) used the same distributor cap as the Wolseley 6/99 and 6/110. 

Most suppliers miss that detail.

You are quite correct in that that cap can be used in place of the BJ8 cap (17H8844) but the wires will point away from #1 cylinder rather than toward it.






Michael S

BN1 #174





From: Chris Dimmock
Sent: bMondayb, bJanuaryb b6b, b2014 b2b:b07b bAM
To: Simon Atkinson
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net





On the 180 degrees out issue, is your car a BJ8??
With a 25D6 distributor??
There are 2 caps available - both  original Lucas - that both fit a Lucas 25D6
distributor. But one or them is 180 degrees out for a BJ8, and was designed
for a Wolsley sedan.
If you have accidentally used a Wolsley cap, you would instinctively fit the
distributor 180 degrees wrong, so the fitted distributor "looked" right.
Is the distributor low tension plastic connector "under" the plug leads, or on
the "back" of your distributor???
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 6 Jan 2014, at 12:58 pm, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>
> Have oil pressure
> I think timing was set good to TDC
> Engine turns and tries to start
> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
> Little back firing from exhaust
> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
> Have fully charged battery
>
>
> Starter issue?
> Timing issue?
> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
>
> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
> appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 12:03:11 2014
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 11:00:47 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8LEZvFPmI9OgDgQ5OVtqol/EsNbg==
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
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IMHO you'd be better off doing this troubleshooting with the points and
condenser as you may fry or have already fried the Pertronix unit. Then once
it runs, install the Pertronix.

 

On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 9:02 AM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=satkinson1974@gmail.com> >wrote:

> Thanks to all for the suggestions!!! Guess I'll have to pull the
> distributor
> and check everything. For those that asked it is a 59 BT7 with a new
> petronix
> electronic distributor. Pretty sure I have electrical wiring correct.
>
> How do you know if the distributor drive dog is off 180deg?
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 12:04:27 2014
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From: "Niels Bengaard" <bengaard@850r.dk>
To: "'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000301cf0a4b$5bc86b40$135941c0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 20:02:15 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac8KS1kT2UtIX8IhQJGJ1K2Ku5RI9AAxXs4g
Content-Language: da
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jetting triple Weber 45 dcoe 9s
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A. Graham Bell4s book Four Stroke Performance Tuning has these numbers.

Numbers for AH 3000 sport / AH 3000 full race

Choke 32 / 34
Main 135 / 130
Air 180 / 160
Emulsion F2 / F2
Pump 45 / 45
Pump bleed closed / closed
Idle 50F2 / 50F2
Aux venturi 4.5 / 3.5


-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
Pe vegne af Simon Lachlan
Sendt: 5. januar 2014 20:22
Til: healeys@autox.team.net
Emne: [Healeys] Jetting triple Weber 45 dcoe 9s

I am trying to accumulate information in order to achieve a start point for
the jetting of 3 dcoe 9s.

I was fiddling around on the net a few minutes ago and downloaded a page out
of a book. It is page 190?, headed "Appendix 2 Conversion equipment jet
setting list". The sixth row appears to be Austin-Healey 3000 Mk 2 & 3.
However, it is illegible. I've photoshopped it inside out and every way, but
it's just no good.

Does anyone have this book and can they send me the info &/or a scan with
guidance as to what the column headings are?



Of course, I'd be most pleased to hear how your DCEs are jetted, bearing in
mind that I'll be using 9s.



Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 12:32:46 2014
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Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 11:30:26 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

check to see if you have spark.  If you do, you have not fried anything.


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 11:00 AM, Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com> wrote:

> IMHO you'd be better off doing this troubleshooting with the points and
> condenser as you may fry or have already fried the Pertronix unit. Then
> once
> it runs, install the Pertronix.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 9:02 AM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com
> <https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=satkinson1974@gmail.com>
> >wrote:
>
> > Thanks to all for the suggestions!!! Guess I'll have to pull the
> > distributor
> > and check everything. For those that asked it is a 59 BT7 with a new
> > petronix
> > electronic distributor. Pretty sure I have electrical wiring correct.
> >
> > How do you know if the distributor drive dog is off 180deg?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Simon
> > Cell 860-324-0248
>
> --
>
>
>
> Steve Gerow
>
> Altadena, CA, USA
>
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 13:36:37 2014
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Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 12:34:09 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steven,

The wrench size is 9/16" W (Whitworth) which is also a listed as a 5/8" BSF
(British Standard Fine).  A far as the threads go, they should be a
Whitworth Thread Form, possibly either BSF (British Standard Fine) or BSP
(British Standard Pipe).

At the moment I cannot access the treads to get a thread gauge on them to
measure the tpi.

However you're not going to find this size nut at any hardware store, it's
a special fastener and you'll have to find a used one, or have one cu$tom
machined, unless of course one of the AH suppliers has them.

Cheers,

Curt


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 3:39 AM, STEPHEN CUSS
<stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>wrote:

> Hi I asked this question a few weeks ago but only got a partial answer, can
> anyone help me with the size of the plug and the thread type, as i am
> trying
> to order a magnatic drain plug for my BN1 and need to know the thread type
> and
> size, the car is original with original sump.
>
> Thanks in advance for your
> help with this matter
>
> Steve
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 14:02:54 2014
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From: Andrew Morrey <andrew@penkville.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 23:52:29 +0300
To: "stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com" <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Stephen


It's 3/8" BSP.

Regards


Andrew


Sent from my iPad
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry, that should have been 3/4" BSP... 


Andrew

Sent from my iPad

> On 6 Jan 2014, at 23:52, Andrew Morrey <andrew@penkville.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Stephen
> 
> 
> It's 3/8" BSP.
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Andrew
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 14:18:59 2014
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Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 13:10:22 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Stephen,

BTW a 5/8" BSF fastener has 14 tpi, but DO NOT under any circumstances use
an an American equivalent even if it will fit as, the pitch angle on
Whitworth fasteners is 55 degrees and it's 60 degrees on UNF /American
fasteners.

This is a common mistake often found on the generator front plate bolts of
100s and Bugeye Sprites.  This bolt that attaches the adjusting link to the
generator front plate is one of the few BSW  (coarse thread) bolts found on
our cars and as such it's 5/16" X 18 tpi which just so happens to
correspond to the 5/16" UNC, ANC, NC, or SAE coarse fasteners available
that also have 18 tpi.  Again the problem arises that BSW fastener has a 55
degree thread pitch and UNC etc... fasteners all have 60 degree thread
pitch angles.

Cheers,

Curt


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 12:34 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Steven,
>
> The wrench size is 9/16" W (Whitworth) which is also a listed as a 5/8"
> BSF (British Standard Fine).  A far as the threads go, they should be a
> Whitworth Thread Form, possibly either BSF (British Standard Fine) or BSP
> (British Standard Pipe).
>
> At the moment I cannot access the treads to get a thread gauge on them to
> measure the tpi.
>
> However you're not going to find this size nut at any hardware store, it's
> a special fastener and you'll have to find a used one, or have one cu$tom
> machined, unless of course one of the AH suppliers has them.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 3:39 AM, STEPHEN CUSS <
> stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi I asked this question a few weeks ago but only got a partial answer,
>> can
>> anyone help me with the size of the plug and the thread type, as i am
>> trying
>> to order a magnatic drain plug for my BN1 and need to know the thread
>> type and
>> size, the car is original with original sump.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for your
>> help with this matter
>>
>> Steve
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 14:50:43 2014
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Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2014 16:42:10 -0500
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>,  STEPHEN CUSS
	<stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Curt,

According to the article on Wikipedia, during world war II the hex heads 
of the BSF and BSW fasteners became the same size.  The BSW were 
originally larger than the BSF; became the same size as the BSF.  So 
depending on when the wrench/socket was produced, markings may vary.

The standard TPI for 3/4 BSF is 12, not 14.


Andrew,

3/4" BSP (british standard pipe) has a major ID of 1.041"; not 3/4".  So 
it's too large. http://www.britishfasteners.com/threads/bsp.html


I may just have to order one from Moss to see if it matches the one I 
measured. :)

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 01/06/2014 03:34 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
> Steven,
>
> The wrench size is 9/16" W (Whitworth) which is also a listed as a 5/8" BSF
> (British Standard Fine).  A far as the threads go, they should be a
> Whitworth Thread Form, possibly either BSF (British Standard Fine) or BSP
> (British Standard Pipe).
>
> At the moment I cannot access the treads to get a thread gauge on them to
> measure the tpi.
>
> However you're not going to find this size nut at any hardware store, it's
> a special fastener and you'll have to find a used one, or have one cu$tom
> machined, unless of course one of the AH suppliers has them.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 3:39 AM, STEPHEN CUSS
> <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>wrote:
>
>> Hi I asked this question a few weeks ago but only got a partial answer, can
>> anyone help me with the size of the plug and the thread type, as i am
>> trying
>> to order a magnatic drain plug for my BN1 and need to know the thread type
>> and
>> size, the car is original with original sump.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for your
>> help with this matter
>>
>> Steve
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 19:33:26 2014
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 19:30:50 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac8LF2jzQaOZsHBgRuyxf7tEMovTewAOO0pA
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1969 Austin Mini Cooper RACE CAR For Sale
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

FYI..  a very nice vintage racer if anyone is looking..

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world

  _____  

From: Cara Brenza [mailto:carabrenza@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 12:42 PM
To: Cara Brenza
Subject: 1969 Austin Mini Cooper RACE CAR For Sale

 




Good Afternoon SWMS,

 

Tom's race car is for sale, please see my craigslist ad and please feel free
to share it with any vintage clubs you might know..

 

http://butte.craigslist.org/cto/4270711499.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 20:46:59 2014
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need some help from some of you electrical wizards.  my daughter's 66 mustang has a temp guage problem.  i recently changed the instrument voltage regulator because the fuel and oil guage were not working properly (read kind of low).   corrected that problem but now the temp guage slowly rises all the way to the hot side.  it modulates from slightly over the hot mark to the letter H on the guage.  mustang forums indicated that it was the sending unit, which i replaced to no avail.  am getting voltage to guage and continuity on the wire going to the sending unit.  don't mind replacing the guage, if that is the problem.  am i missing anything before i spring for a new guage.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  6 21:18:07 2014
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Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 20:07:09 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: James Shope <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] non-healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I need a bit more information to form a proper opinion
1. disconnect the wire to the sender, what is the resistance between the
sender terminal and ground both cold and with the engine warmed up?
2. With the key on and the sensor disconnected, what is the voltage at the
end of the wire where it connects to the sender?
3. Leave the wire disconnected disconnect the wire from the gauge and
measure resistance from the wire to ground.  If it infinity or something
else?
4. Reconnect the wire to both the sender and the gauge, with the key on,
measure voltage at the sender and at the gauge
5. What is the feed voltage to the gauge from the voltage regulator?
6. Does the fuel gauge read funny, or is it just the temp gauge?
Rick


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 7:44 PM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:

> need some help from some of you electrical wizards.  my daughter's 66
> mustang has a temp guage problem.  i recently changed the instrument
> voltage regulator because the fuel and oil guage were not working properly
> (read kind of low).   corrected that problem but now the temp guage slowly
> rises all the way to the hot side.  it modulates from slightly over the hot
> mark to the letter H on the guage.  mustang forums indicated that it was
> the sending unit, which i replaced to no avail.  am getting voltage to
> guage and continuity on the wire going to the sending unit.  don't mind
> replacing the guage, if that is the problem.  am i missing anything before
> i spring for a new guage.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  7 06:36:15 2014
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Richard Ewald'" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>, "'James Shope'"
	<healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
References: <20140107034423.9143.qmail@server278.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] non-healey
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just a WAG, but if the coolant level is too low the sender gets very
confused.. 
Dave


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Ewald
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 9:07 PM
To: James Shope
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] non-healey

I need a bit more information to form a proper opinion
1. disconnect the wire to the sender, what is the resistance between the
sender terminal and ground both cold and with the engine warmed up?
2. With the key on and the sensor disconnected, what is the voltage at the
end of the wire where it connects to the sender?
3. Leave the wire disconnected disconnect the wire from the gauge and
measure resistance from the wire to ground.  If it infinity or something
else?
4. Reconnect the wire to both the sender and the gauge, with the key on,
measure voltage at the sender and at the gauge
5. What is the feed voltage to the gauge from the voltage regulator?
6. Does the fuel gauge read funny, or is it just the temp gauge?
Rick
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  7 14:56:35 2014
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Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re:  BN1 100/4 Drain plug size and thread
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Bob





Its definitely BSP (parallel), as I used a tap from a set I inherited from
my Dad to rectify a bad attack of cross-threading.



Youre right that the size doesnt follow the OD of the plug, so this must
be = BSP but I cant check my sump plug without draining it to be sure,
which wouldnt be convenient right now.



Regards





Andrew
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 09:30:27 2014
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 09:10:30 -0700
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] BAT - 100 Race Car For Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

>From Bring a Trailer this AM, a 100 race car for sale on UK site but located
in PA. ???

http://bringatrailer.com/2014/01/07/1955-austin-healey-100-4-2/

NFI

Randy

Randy Hicks
AHCA 100 Registrar
ahca100registrar@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 17:13:47 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] No Activity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Were is everybody?  I've had no emails since Randy "Hicks Bring A
Trailer" email at 11:28 am EST this morning?

Larry
'67 BJ8
Sent 7:10 pm EST
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <3671389F-FBF0-4487-9044-ED9E2015A95B@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 16:20:22 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BAT - 100 Race Car For Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Randy,

The seller is Andrew Vitek, a classic car dealer, from Pennsylvania. 
Looking around on the internet, he's had a few race Healeys pass through his
hands as well as a bunch of other interesting cars.  I'm a bit puzzled about
advertising the cars in the UK too, but he's advertised some of his other
non-Healey cars there as well, so it must be a successful business model. 
Here's a really healthy sounding BN1, built by Fourintune, he had for sale: 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tR905-Z_N4g  

NFI for me, either  
 
Rick
"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From: Randy
Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Wednesday, January 8, 2014 11:10 AM
Subject: [Healeys] BAT - 100 Race Car For
Sale
 

>From Bring a Trailer this AM, a 100 race car for sale on UK site but
located
in PA. ???
http://bringatrailer.com/2014/01/07/1955-austin-healey-100-4-2/

NFI

Randy
Randy Hicks
AHCA 100 Registrar
ahca100registrar@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 19:54:33 2014
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References: <8D0DAE6615860BC-148C-36DAA@webmail-d254.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 16:21:11 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We're tttttoooo  cccccccoooooooollld to tttttype.


 
Rick


"Madman in a
death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2014 7:10 PM
Subject:
[Healeys] No Activity
 

Were is everybody?  I've had no emails since Randy
"Hicks Bring A
Trailer" email at 11:28 am EST this morning?

Larry
'67 BJ8
Sent 7:10 pm EST
_______________________________________________
Support
Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 20:02:24 2014
Return-Path: <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net>
Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net
Received: from 50-198-190-17-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net (localhost [IPv6:::1])
	by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 36C3540522
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Delivered-To: healeys@autox.team.net
Received: from cdptpa-oedge-vip.email.rr.com
	(cdptpa-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.166.225]) by autox.team.net
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	09 Jan 2014 00:46:57 +0000
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>, "Larry Wendland" <bighealey3k@aim.com>
References: <8D0DAE6615860BC-148C-36DAA@webmail-d254.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 18:47:00 -0600
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Haven't you heard, worldwide crisis, no time to work on Healeys, no time to 
even think about vexing timing and mixture problems, most are probably out 
attempting to stock up on the staples of life.

Velveeta shortage: 
http://www.eonline.com/news/496572/velveeta-shortage-7-signs-of-the-impending-cheesepocalypse

Greg L.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Larry Wendland" <bighealey3k@aim.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2014 6:10 PM
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] No Activity

> Were is everybody?  I've had no emails since Randy "Hicks Bring A
> Trailer" email at 11:28 am EST this morning?
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
> Sent 7:10 pm EST
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon@neb.rr.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 20:02:54 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 16:19:38 -0800
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
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Here's some activity.

After saving 50 pounds from my transmission and back plate.

I just installed a gear reduction starter for another 7 pounds off!

Wilko
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 20:14:49 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 19:12:17 -0800
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <BcBS1n01L0NyJgq01cBURZ> <Bf0f1n00w0NyJgq01f0gT9>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity (driving today)
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Since I was enjoying my Healey I decided to brave the 68 degree temps and
sunny sky to cruise around a bit with my top stowed.



On Jan 8, 2014, at 4:19 PM, Wilko2 wrote:

> Here's some activity.
>
> After saving 50 pounds from my transmission and back plate.
>
> I just installed a gear reduction starter for another 7 pounds off!
>
> Wilko
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 09:14:29 2014
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 08:02:57 -0800 (PST)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Pulling my engine today to fix freeze plugs and install a clutch.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Wendland" <bighealey3k@aim.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2014 4:10:46 PM
Subject: [Healeys] No Activity

Were is everybody?  I've had no emails since Randy "Hicks Bring A
Trailer" email at 11:28 am EST this morning?

Larry
'67 BJ8
Sent 7:10 pm EST
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 11:04:39 2014
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 17:50:55 +0000 (UTC)
From: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Headers on BJ8
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Subject: [Healeys] Headers on BJ8
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anybody running headers on their BJ8 ?..................is it worth doing?B 
please share your thoughts on installation problems,performance
gains,etc......................I am thinking of ordering KIRK HEADERS .....And
I am having my carbs rebuilt, and maybe adding a 123ignition.
B 
Thanks
Mitch
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 11:22:22 2014
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 10:19:09 -0800 (PST)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Headers on BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

yeah, I love my Kirk headers. I have had them since the 70's. Nice boost in the mid range. Other So Cal owners with them in the good old days used to say the same thing. Every thing fit, but I eventually had the slip joint on number 1 or number 2 tube welded because of a leak. I could still get them off without raising the engine.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mitch" <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, January 9, 2014 9:50:55 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Headers on BJ8

Anybody running headers on their BJ8 ?..................is it worth doing?B 
please share your thoughts on installation problems,performance
gains,etc......................I am thinking of ordering KIRK HEADERS .....And
I am having my carbs rebuilt, and maybe adding a 123ignition.
B 
Thanks
Mitch
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 11:35:00 2014
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 18:32:25 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: goldengt@cal.net
References: <798979226.16961.1389291549021.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Headers on BJ8
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Headers on BJ8
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Do they do anything for (otherwise) stock engines? 

Bob 


----- Original Message -----



yeah, I love my Kirk headers. I have had them since the 70's. Nice boost in the mid range. Other So Cal owners with them in the good old days used to say the same thing. Every thing fit, but I eventually had the slip joint on number 1 or number 2 tube welded because of a leak. I could still get them off without raising the engine. 
Ken Freese 
65 BJ8 

----- Original Message ----- 


Anybody running headers on their BJ8 ?..................is it worth doing?B 
please share your thoughts on installation problems,performance 
gains,etc......................I am thinking of ordering KIRK HEADERS .....And 
I am having my carbs rebuilt, and maybe adding a 123ignition. 
B 
Thanks 
Mitch 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 11:50:21 2014
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To: goldengt@cal.net
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I highly recommend installing clutches in Healeys. Does wonders for mileage. 

Bob 



----- Original Message -----



Pulling my engine today to fix freeze plugs and install a clutch. 
Ken Freese 
65 BJ8 

----- Original Message ----- 


Were is everybody? I've had no emails since Randy "Hicks Bring A 
Trailer" email at 11:28 am EST this morning? 

Larry 
'67 BJ8 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 12:21:17 2014
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	<82528335.18874418.1389289855640.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 11:12:09 -0800
To: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Headers on BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Any Idea on the cost of the Kirk Headers? I have a BT&, But I'm running BJ8
Carbs. Their website is under construction and has no information?
BTW
 Yes Headers will improve any engine. IMHO

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 9:50 AM, Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net> wrote:

> Anybody running headers on their BJ8 ?..................is it worth doing?B
> please share your thoughts on installation problems,performance
> gains,etc......................I am thinking of ordering KIRK HEADERS
> .....And
> I am having my carbs rebuilt, and maybe adding a 123ignition.
> B
> Thanks
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 14:26:23 2014
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 13:13:38 -0800 (PST)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Headers on BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have had them with the 270 degree cam and the stock cam. Subjectively I think the midrange bump was the same. 
Ken

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: goldengt@cal.net
Cc: "Mitch" <dayton21@comcast.net>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, January 9, 2014 10:32:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Headers on BJ8



Do they do anything for (otherwise) stock engines? 



Bob 




----- Original Message -----




yeah, I love my Kirk headers. I have had them since the 70's. Nice boost in the mid range. Other So Cal owners with them in the good old days used to say the same thing. Every thing fit, but I eventually had the slip joint on number 1 or number 2 tube welded because of a leak. I could still get them off without raising the engine. 
Ken Freese 
65 BJ8 


----- Original Message ----- 



Anybody running headers on their BJ8 ?..................is it worth doing?B 
please share your thoughts on installation problems,performance 
gains,etc......................I am thinking of ordering KIRK HEADERS .....And 
I am having my carbs rebuilt, and maybe adding a 123ignition. 
B 
Thanks 
Mitch 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Headers on BJ8
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Thanks, Ken. 'Midrange' is where I spend most of my time. 

Bob 


----- Original Message -----



I have had them with the 270 degree cam and the stock cam. Subjectively I think the midrange bump was the same. 
Ken 

----- Original Message ----- 
Do they do anything for (otherwise) stock engines? 



Bob 




----- Original Message ----- 




yeah, I love my Kirk headers. I have had them since the 70's. Nice boost in the mid range. Other So Cal owners with them in the good old days used to say the same thing. Every thing fit, but I eventually had the slip joint on number 1 or number 2 tube welded because of a leak. I could still get them off without raising the engine. 
Ken Freese 
65 BJ8 


----- Original Message ----- 



Anybody running headers on their BJ8 ?..................is it worth doing?B 
please share your thoughts on installation problems,performance 
gains,etc......................I am thinking of ordering KIRK HEADERS .....And 
I am having my carbs rebuilt, and maybe adding a 123ignition. 
B 
Thanks 
Mitch 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 14:27:39 2014
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Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2014 16:24:28 -0500
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
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Well, I measured another oil pan plug (drained some oil too).  Same 
threads: 3/4"-14 TPI. I've sent an email to Moss to see what theirs are. 
  I've not found a British thread standard that includes it (BSW, BSF or 
BSP).  In metric terms, it might be 19mm - 1.8, but didn't find that 
either.  There's 3/4-14 UNS, but then you get into the 55 versus 60 
degree issue.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 01/08/2014 07:10 PM, Larry Wendland wrote:
> Were is everybody?  I've had no emails since Randy "Hicks Bring A
> Trailer" email at 11:28 am EST this morning?
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
> Sent 7:10 pm EST
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 15:07:31 2014
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	<52CF138C.50501@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 13:57:28 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>, STEPHEN CUSS
	<stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob & Stephen,

The wrench size is 9/16" W (Whitworth) which is also a listed as a 5/8" BSF
(British Standard Fine).  A far as the threads go, they should be a
Whitworth Thread Form, possibly BSP (British Standard Pipe). I haven't been
able to check the threads per inch, but others have stated they're a 3/4"
and 14 tpi which corresponds to BSP (Parallel).  This was measured and
confirmed on my NOS 100 oil pan.

However you're not going to find this size nut at any hardware store, it's
a special fastener and you'll have to find a used one, or have one cu$tom
machined, unless of course one of the AH suppliers has them.

Remember my warning about using 60 degree thread forms in a 55 degree
Whitworth applications, lest you want to be known as a future (HFDPO) Ham
Fisted Dreaded Previous Owner

I'd be interested in what Moss has to say.

Cheers,

Curt


On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 1:24 PM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Well, I measured another oil pan plug (drained some oil too).  Same
> threads: 3/4"-14 TPI. I've sent an email to Moss to see what theirs are.
>  I've not found a British thread standard that includes it (BSW, BSF or
> BSP).  In metric terms, it might be 19mm - 1.8, but didn't find that
> either.  There's 3/4-14 UNS, but then you get into the 55 versus 60 degree
> issue.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 01/08/2014 07:10 PM, Larry Wendland wrote:
>
>> Were is everybody?  I've had no emails since Randy "Hicks Bring A
>> Trailer" email at 11:28 am EST this morning?
>>
>> Larry
>> '67 BJ8
>> Sent 7:10 pm EST
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 16:45:57 2014
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Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2014 18:39:08 -0500
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>,  Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
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Curt,

I think I've managed to confuse.  When I've stated 3/4"-14, I'm giving 
the major diameter of the thread as 3/4".  A 3/4-14 BSP has a major 
diameter of 1.041".  I've not found a chart of BSP thread sizes that 
lists a major diameter of 3/4".  It would fall between the 3/8-19 and 
1/2-14.  So, 7/16-14 BSP?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 01/09/2014 04:57 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
> Bob & Stephen,
>
> The wrench size is 9/16" W (Whitworth) which is also a listed as a 5/8"
> BSF (British Standard Fine).  A far as the threads go, they should be a
> Whitworth Thread Form, possibly BSP (British Standard Pipe). I haven't
> been able to check the threads per inch, but others have stated they're
> a 3/4" and 14 tpi which corresponds to BSP (Parallel).  This was
> measured and confirmed on my NOS 100 oil pan.
>
> However you're not going to find this size nut at any hardware store,
> it's a special fastener and you'll have to find a used one, or have one
> cu$tom machined, unless of course one of the AH suppliers has them.
>
> Remember my warning about using 60 degree thread forms in a 55 degree
> Whitworth applications, lest you want to be known as a future (HFDPO)
> Ham Fisted Dreaded Previous Owner
>
> I'd be interested in what Moss has to say.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 1:24 PM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net
>
>     Well, I measured another oil pan plug (drained some oil too).  Same
>     threads: 3/4"-14 TPI. I've sent an email to Moss to see what theirs
>     are.  I've not found a British thread standard that includes it
>     (BSW, BSF or BSP).  In metric terms, it might be 19mm - 1.8, but
>     didn't find that either.  There's 3/4-14 UNS, but then you get into
>     the 55 versus 60 degree issue.
>
>     Cheers,
>
>     Bob Haskell
>     AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
>     http://www.ciahc.org/registry___3000mk1.php
>     <http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php>
>
>     On 01/08/2014 07:10 PM, Larry Wendland wrote:
>
>         Were is everybody?  I've had no emails since Randy "Hicks Bring A
>         Trailer" email at 11:28 am EST this morning?
>
>         Larry
>         '67 BJ8
>         Sent 7:10 pm EST
>         _________________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.__html
>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>         Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>         Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/__listinfo/healeys
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net>
>
>     _________________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.__html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 17:49:34 2014
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Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2014 16:46:50 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Upholstery
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Hi Gang,

We're going to be installing the interior of our BN2 pretty soon. Wondering what's the List wisdom on upholstery/trim 
adhesive, and what size staples are correct (for seat covers, mostly).

TIA,
Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 19:21:28 2014
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	UTC
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2014 18:09:38 -0800
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <52CF42FA.2010504@comcast.net>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Upholstery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 20:07:39 2014
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 21:56:46 -0500 (EST)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
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Well this is what I've been doing ...    http://youtu.be/s91SQ1a6bU0
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 20:54:07 2014
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From: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 19:45:21 -0800
To: "ATIGHTPROD@aol.com" <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Weather has been so nice in vegas, we wave been touring with the top down,
breaking and wearing things out so we have something to repair in the heat of
summer

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 9, 2014, at 6:56 PM, ATIGHTPROD@aol.com wrote:
>
> Well this is what I've been doing ...    http://youtu.be/s91SQ1a6bU0
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 21:09:39 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <27bc2.730b6978.4000bb6e@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 15:04:03 +1100
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Thread-Index: AQDHPw2jKtYJbfiQDs4WBrdxkAXjG5yM8wKw
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Steven

That was really wonderful and I particularly like the kangaroo sticker on
the windscreen.

BTW a kangaroo is not something you really want to run in to while driving
your Austin-Healey. I hit a wallaby (they are about the quarter the size of
a roo) a little time back in an everyday Ford - some $4500 later the car was
repaired.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Sent: Friday, 10 January 2014 1:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity

Well this is what I've been doing ...    http://youtu.be/s91SQ1a6bU0
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 21:11:36 2014
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From: "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <27bc2.730b6978.4000bb6e@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 14:08:18 +1000
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Good to see Steven! And nice to see the kangaroo on the windscreen!

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 Holden V6
BN1 Ausca

-----Original Message----- 
From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com 
Sent: Friday, January 10, 2014 12:56 PM 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity 

Well this is what I've been doing ...    http://youtu.be/s91SQ1a6bU0
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 00:16:41 2014
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References: <27bc2.730b6978.4000bb6e@aol.com>
	<018801cf0db9$030eb4c0$092c1e40$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 15:08:13 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hope you enjoyed a scrumptious Wallaby fricassee!



On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 12:04 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day Steven
>
> That was really wonderful and I particularly like the kangaroo sticker on
> the windscreen.
>
> BTW a kangaroo is not something you really want to run in to while driving
> your Austin-Healey. I hit a wallaby (they are about the quarter the size of
> a roo) a little time back in an everyday Ford - some $4500 later the car
> was
> repaired.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
> Sent: Friday, 10 January 2014 1:57 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Activity
>
> Well this is what I've been doing ...    http://youtu.be/s91SQ1a6bU0
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 04:27:48 2014
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Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 05:22:33 -0500
From: Seth DeGraff <slvrbulit2@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Healeys] Newspaper article
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A week or so ago on the Albany, NY times union newspaper there was a short article about a 1963 3000.B  If someone wants it, email me off list with your address and I'll mail it to you.
Seth
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 04:34:32 2014
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From: "Jim" <jmcd206@msn.com>
To: "Austin Healey Healey Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 10:35:29 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Hi, Austin Healey Healey Net
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://istanbul.otomobililan.net/js/facebook.php?tkmnkncyct1168pshht









































 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 


     jmcd206@msn.com

Jim
  
Useful Military Jargon: TUIFU - The Ultimate In Fudge Ups
     


.....................
   
     Fri, 10 Jan 2014 10:35:29 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 05:04:28 2014
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20140110103526.GCIE4705.fed1rmfepo202.cox.net@fed1rmimpo306>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 06:58:56 -0500
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Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Hi, Austin Healey Healey Net
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This guy is sending spam to the list. I notified Mark.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Friday, January 10, 2014 5:35 AM
To: Austin Healey Healey Net
Subject: [Healeys] Hi, Austin Healey Healey Net

http://istanbul.otomobililan.net/js/facebook.php?tkmnkncyct1168pshht









































 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 


     jmcd206@msn.com

Jim
  
Useful Military Jargon: TUIFU - The Ultimate In Fudge Ups
     


.....................
   
     Fri, 10 Jan 2014 10:35:29
$12.75
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 05:19:52 2014
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From: "Bluehealey" <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: "'Seth DeGraff'" <slvrbulit2@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20140110112803.F007940451@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 12:15:11 -0000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Newspaper article
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Thanks Seth.
Was it this one?
http://tinyurl.com/ndnrha3
A nice read.
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
                (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _)

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Seth DeGraff
Sent: 10 January 2014 10:23
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Newspaper article

A week or so ago on the Albany, NY times union newspaper there was a short
article about a 1963 3000.B  If someone wants it, email me off list with
your address and I'll mail it to you.
Seth


---
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 17:34:33 2014
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Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 13:34:22 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20140110103526.GCIE4705.fed1rmfepo202.cox.net@fed1rmimpo306>
	<001401cf0dfb$5799bfc0$06cd3f40$@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW:  Hi, Austin Healey Healey Net
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John Sims wrote:
> This guy is sending spam to the list. I notified Mark.
>
>

Actually someone who hijacked his email is sending the spam.

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 11 01:31:00 2014
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Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2014 19:14:35 +1100
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: Nash Car Club <mol@nashcarclub.org>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
	more information
Subject: [Healeys] James Moore Nash Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hi Guys, does anyone know the fate of the James Moore Nash Healey. 
Purported to be the last Nash Healey made and incorporating a Siata 
Chassis. So I suppose there really shouldn't be "Healey" in the name. I 
have attached a link to an article I found on the car from 1959 in Speed 
Age magazine that I will incorporate into my Nash Healey website. The 
link is -
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/nash/moore.pdf
While the pictures are not great they show a wishbone front suspension 
rather than the Healey unit normally used. As the article tells the car 
was converted by Moore to AMC V8 after it's use for advertising Nash.
Any further information would be appreciated. Is it still out there?
Cheers
Larry Varley
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/nash/docs.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 11 14:47:55 2014
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	2014 11:39:28 -0800 (PST)
References: <C3FE4183-8B82-494A-AD72-1FA78982D335@gmail.com>
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	<F7BB88031B58492E82C0F5E4ADCADEDA@oscar>
From: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2014 14:39:23 -0500
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Well the solution was so simple I'm embarrassed to say.....

Had the spark plug leads going clockwise around the dist by mistake!

Fired right up!!

Then after 5 mins before the champagne could be opened a welch plug flew off
the engine and hot water all over the place. Thank god no coolant in there
yet.

I had someone rebuild the engine so do I just need to get some sealant and
reseat the plug? It's the one right next to the cylinder tap.

Any advice?

Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248



> On Jan 6, 2014, at 9:28 AM, "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
wrote:
>
> The dog gear will be "out of correct factory" position if the driving dog
> doesn't match with the receiver end of the distributor. They are off set
and
> in theory can't be miss-aligned. It's the driving gear that can be inserted
> "out of time" However, so long as the rotor points to the right wire at the
> right time it can be in several positions.. The rotation of the dist. may
> hit the block (vacuum pot) and thus the "factory" position.
> With the Pertronix unit, check that the spark is seen at or very near TDC.
> Hold the high tension lead near a ground, rotate crank slowly until spark
is
> noted, then check the TDC marks..
> Dave
>
> frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Simon Atkinson
> Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 7:02 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
>
> Thanks to all for the suggestions!!! Guess I'll have to pull the
distributor
> and check everything. For those that asked it is a 59 BT7 with a new
> petronix
> electronic distributor. Pretty sure I have electrical wiring correct.
>
> How do you know if the distributor drive dog is off 180deg?
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
>
>
>
>> On Jan 6, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> My bet is timing--Michael
>>
>>
>>> On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:58 PM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>>> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No go....
>>> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>>>
>>> Have oil pressure
>>> I think timing was set good to TDC
>>> Engine turns and tries to start
>>> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
>>> Little back firing from exhaust
>>> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
>>> Have fully charged battery
>>>
>>>
>>> Starter issue?
>>> Timing issue?
>>> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
>>>
>>> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
>>> appreciated!
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Simon
>>> Cell 860-324-0248
>>> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 11 15:05:07 2014
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Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2014 23:01:21 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <C3FE4183-8B82-494A-AD72-1FA78982D335@gmail.com>
	<CAPTa0B7Nf_MDFYOHRFRwoXRf+6YChXAU+wjNnYnrtqzGtEVsng@mail.gmail.com>
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	<F91D0C75-7701-4E0C-96D7-57E8015C27D2@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tap in a new plug. You may use some sealant.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Simon Atkinson schreef op 11-1-2014 20:39:
> Well the solution was so simple I'm embarrassed to say.....
>
> Had the spark plug leads going clockwise around the dist by mistake!
>
> Fired right up!!
>
> Then after 5 mins before the champagne could be opened a welch plug flew off
> the engine and hot water all over the place. Thank god no coolant in there
> yet.
>
> I had someone rebuild the engine so do I just need to get some sealant and
> reseat the plug? It's the one right next to the cylinder tap.
>
> Any advice?
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
_______________________________________________
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2014 15:13:24 -0800
References: <361B062B-C7D7-413C-B7BE-9AF54D84C010@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sent from my iPhone


> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
>
> Simon,
> Back when I was turning wrenches for a living we got a Volvo 164 towed in.
Customer had been working on it and it was a no start.
> I started working on with another mechanic who was from England.
> One of the first things I checked was firing order which was clockwise and
correct. I turn to my associate and ask which way does the distributor turn?
Clockwise was the answer.
> We continue to check and everything looks ok.
> I go over to the repair manual rack and find a manual. The manual
conveniently falls open to the ignition specs page. I see Distributor
rotation: anti-clockwise.
> Now knowing what's wrong I walk back nudge my fellow tech point to the dist
rotor and hit the remote starter.   The rotor of course spins CCW
> Without missing a beat he says "You have obviously never seen a British
clock."
> :-)
> Rick
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jan 11, 2014, at 11:39, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Well the solution was so simple I'm embarrassed to say.....
>>
>> Had the spark plug leads going clockwise around the dist by mistake!
>>
>> Fired right up!!
>>
>> Then after 5 mins before the champagne could be opened a welch plug flew
off
>> the engine and hot water all over the place. Thank god no coolant in there
>> yet.
>>
>> I had someone rebuild the engine so do I just need to get some sealant and
>> reseat the plug? It's the one right next to the cylinder tap.
>>
>> Any advice?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Simon
>> Cell 860-324-0248
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 11 21:23:49 2014
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2014 04:18:36 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
References: <C3FE4183-8B82-494A-AD72-1FA78982D335@gmail.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Our engine builder recommended a high-temp epoxy on plugs. Haven't had one come out yet (also used one on the plug on the end of my BJ8's 'log' manifold after it popped out). 

I know--they'll be bears to get out if I ever need to. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl> 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2014 2:01:21 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild 

Tap in a new plug. You may use some sealant. 
Kees Oudesluijs 
NL 


Simon Atkinson schreef op 11-1-2014 20:39: 
> Well the solution was so simple I'm embarrassed to say..... 
> 
> Had the spark plug leads going clockwise around the dist by mistake! 
> 
> Fired right up!! 
> 
> Then after 5 mins before the champagne could be opened a welch plug flew off 
> the engine and hot water all over the place. Thank god no coolant in there 
> yet. 
> 
> I had someone rebuild the engine so do I just need to get some sealant and 
> reseat the plug? It's the one right next to the cylinder tap. 
> 
> Any advice? 
> 
> Thanks, 
> Simon 
> Cell 860-324-0248 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 03:00:12 2014
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To: bluegrassclub@yahoogroups.com
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Subject: [Healeys] Renewal deadline for the Austin Healey Club of America
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Just a reminder that the renewal deadline for the Austin Healey Club of
America is January 15th, 2014.

You can renew online at  https://healeyclub.org/renewal/



Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2014 15:02:44 -0800
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To: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon,
Back when I was turning wrenches for a living we got a Volvo 164 towed in.
Customer had been working on it and it was a no start.
I started working on with another mechanic who was from England.
One of the first things I checked was firing order which was clockwise and
correct. I turn to my associate and ask which way does the distributor turn?
Clockwise was the answer.
We continue to check and everything looks ok.
I go over to the repair manual rack and find a manual. The manual conveniently
falls open to the ignition specs page. I see Distributor rotation:
anti-clockwise.
Now knowing what's wrong I walk back nudge my fellow tech point to the dist
rotor and hit the remote starter.   The rotor of course spins CCW
Without missing a beat he says "You have obviously never seen a British
clock."
:-)
Rick


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 11, 2014, at 11:39, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Well the solution was so simple I'm embarrassed to say.....
>
> Had the spark plug leads going clockwise around the dist by mistake!
>
> Fired right up!!
>
> Then after 5 mins before the champagne could be opened a welch plug flew
off
> the engine and hot water all over the place. Thank god no coolant in there
> yet.
>
> I had someone rebuild the engine so do I just need to get some sealant and
> reseat the plug? It's the one right next to the cylinder tap.
>
> Any advice?
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
>
>
>
>>> On Jan 6, 2014, at 9:28 AM, "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> The dog gear will be "out of correct factory" position if the driving dog
>> doesn't match with the receiver end of the distributor. They are off set
> and
>> in theory can't be miss-aligned. It's the driving gear that can be
inserted
>> "out of time" However, so long as the rotor points to the right wire at
the
>> right time it can be in several positions.. The rotation of the dist. may
>> hit the block (vacuum pot) and thus the "factory" position.
>> With the Pertronix unit, check that the spark is seen at or very near TDC.
>> Hold the high tension lead near a ground, rotate crank slowly until spark
> is
>> noted, then check the TDC marks..
>> Dave
>>
>> frogeye@porterscustom.com
>>
>> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
>> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
>> 505-352-1378
>> Porter Custom Bicycles
>>
>> gallery:
>>
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>>
>> GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Simon Atkinson
>> Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 7:02 AM
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Start up after rebuild
>>
>> Thanks to all for the suggestions!!! Guess I'll have to pull the
> distributor
>> and check everything. For those that asked it is a 59 BT7 with a new
>> petronix
>> electronic distributor. Pretty sure I have electrical wiring correct.
>>
>> How do you know if the distributor drive dog is off 180deg?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Simon
>> Cell 860-324-0248
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Jan 6, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
wrote:
>>>
>>> My bet is timing--Michael
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:58 PM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> Tried to start her up after 10yrs today and a complete rebuild. No
go....
>>>> Here's what's happening and could use some help...
>>>>
>>>> Have oil pressure
>>>> I think timing was set good to TDC
>>>> Engine turns and tries to start
>>>> Getting some smoke from air cleaners
>>>> Little back firing from exhaust
>>>> Starter turns and then spins after either 3 or 6 seconds (max).
>>>> Have fully charged battery
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Starter issue?
>>>> Timing issue?
>>>> Carbs fuel/air mixture issue?
>>>>
>>>> Any advice (sorry I know hard to troubleshoot from a far) would be
>>>> appreciated!
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Simon
>>>> Cell 860-324-0248
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>>>
>>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>
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> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 11:49:51 2014
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References: <8D0DD1FA3731EC5-BAC-4BA38@webmail-m151.sysops.aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Renewal deadline for the Austin Healey Club of
	America
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been flooded with membership inquiries etc. I am not the membership
person, just helping with communications.

If you have a question regarding your renewal status contact your club
membership person for assistance.

Thanks,


Jim Werner
Louisville, KY



-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: bluegrassclub <bluegrassclub@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sat, Jan 11, 2014 3:05 pm
Subject: Renewal deadline for the Austin Healey Club of America



Just a reminder that the renewal deadline for the Austin Healey Club of
America is January 15th, 2014.

You can renew online at  https://healeyclub.org/renewal/



Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 13:16:58 2014
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From: Gilbert Gauthier <comkanuk@cgocable.ca>
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2014 14:43:35 -0500
References: <8D0DD1FA3731EC5-BAC-4BA38@webmail-m151.sysops.aol.com>
	<8D0DDDD9E598052-2208-52917@webmail-d131.sysops.aol.com>
To: Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Renewal deadline for the Austin Healey Club of America
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Good job !!!

Gilbert
Le 2014-01-12 ` 13:45, Jim Werner a icrit :

> I have been flooded with membership inquiries etc. I am not the membership
> person, just helping with communications.
>
> If you have a question regarding your renewal status contact your club
> membership person for assistance.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
> To: bluegrassclub <bluegrassclub@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sat, Jan 11, 2014 3:05 pm
> Subject: Renewal deadline for the Austin Healey Club of America
>
>
>
> Just a reminder that the renewal deadline for the Austin Healey Club of
> America is January 15th, 2014.
>
> You can renew online at  https://healeyclub.org/renewal/
>
>
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 16:24:22 2014
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	<healeys@autox.team.net>; Mon, 13 Jan 2014 10:20:07 +1100
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 10:20:05 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac8P7DkgXAT5XiszTgCMJ4SPOpD1Lg==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 in Stamford, Connecticut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

A friend of mine here in Australia has bought a BJ8 on the East Coast and is
having some work done by Sports & Classics of Stamford Connecticut.

 

My friend says that Sports & Classics could be more communicative with
respect to what going on with the car and have not sent the photos he is
longing to see.

 

Would there be anyone out there who is close by who could drop into Sports &
Classics, have an AH chat and take a few pics?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 16:39:50 2014
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References: <004901cf0fec$d49ab180$7dd01480$@tpg.com.au>
From: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2014 18:36:17 -0500
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 in Stamford, Connecticut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm in Connecticut. Would be happy to stop by later this week. Let me know the
details off list

Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248



> On Jan 12, 2014, at 6:20 PM, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn"
<p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> A friend of mine here in Australia has bought a BJ8 on the East Coast and
is
> having some work done by Sports & Classics of Stamford Connecticut.
>
>
>
> My friend says that Sports & Classics could be more communicative with
> respect to what going on with the car and have not sent the photos he is
> longing to see.
>
>
>
> Would there be anyone out there who is close by who could drop into Sports
&
> Classics, have an AH chat and take a few pics?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/satkinson1974@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 18:04:58 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 11:26:11 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac8P9XqGA0a4x0hASxKtisJCXlf29A==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

I am about to do something that in 42 years of Austin-Healey ownership I
have managed to avoid.

 

That's the removal of a BJ8 gearbox.

 

I have removed many a BN1 box and have lost count of the number of times I
have removed and refitted the gearbox (100S + OD) in the BN3 and have even
removed a gearbox in a real Healey, but never one from a BJ8.

 

Please tell me that apart from the console and other modern (?) stuff there
isn't much of a difference?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 18:56:36 2014
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From: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <006701cf0ff6$107d91f0$3178b5d0$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 12:51:19 +1100
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick,

I just remember that it was a bitch to get out when I had to remove mine a 
few years back to get Dave Woodhouse to upgrade my overdrive unit

Seem to remember that there was not enough room to slide the gearbox back 
off of the retaining bolts with the tail shaft still in position in the 
tunnel .

Memory has faded a bit as it was about 15-20 years back.

But some of the guys will no the answer from recent experience

Cheers

Graeme M
BJ8

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2014 11:26 AM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal


> G'day
>
>
>
> I am about to do something that in 42 years of Austin-Healey ownership I
> have managed to avoid.
>
>
>
> That's the removal of a BJ8 gearbox.
>
>
>
> I have removed many a BN1 box and have lost count of the number of times I
> have removed and refitted the gearbox (100S + OD) in the BN3 and have even
> removed a gearbox in a real Healey, but never one from a BJ8.
>
>
>
> Please tell me that apart from the console and other modern (?) stuff 
> there
> isn't much of a difference?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/molony@dodo.com.au
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 19:40:56 2014
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References: <006701cf0ff6$107d91f0$3178b5d0$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2014 21:29:28 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Easy as Patrick.
Use a fan belt around the rear yoke to save your fingers and a piece of 4 x
2 under the sump and gearbox to support the bell housing as you pull them
apart.
I would also recommend removing the plastic throttle bearing from the
manifold so it doesn't get broken and don't forget to turn the battery off
so that all the smoke doesn't leak out when the bell housing hits the
starter solenoid...
Should be able to knock it over before morning tea mate.

Michael S
BN1 #174



On Sun, Jan 12, 2014 at 7:26 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> I am about to do something that in 42 years of Austin-Healey ownership I
> have managed to avoid.
>
>
>
> That's the removal of a BJ8 gearbox.
>
>
>
> I have removed many a BN1 box and have lost count of the number of times I
> have removed and refitted the gearbox (100S + OD) in the BN3 and have even
> removed a gearbox in a real Healey, but never one from a BJ8.
>
>
>
> Please tell me that apart from the console and other modern (?) stuff there
> isn't much of a difference?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
All wisdom is plagiarism; only stupidity is original.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 19:41:31 2014
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2014 21:30:05 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,
  healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've done it three times.  Other than the grunt work, not much to it--proper shoring up on the bottom while sliding it rearward and a helper up top.

tom

---- Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote: 

=============
G'day

 

I am about to do something that in 42 years of Austin-Healey ownership I
have managed to avoid.

 

That's the removal of a BJ8 gearbox.

 

I have removed many a BN1 box and have lost count of the number of times I
have removed and refitted the gearbox (100S + OD) in the BN3 and have even
removed a gearbox in a real Healey, but never one from a BJ8.

 

Please tell me that apart from the console and other modern (?) stuff there
isn't much of a difference?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 19:43:40 2014
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2014 18:40:47 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, 
  healeys@autox.team.net
References: <006701cf0ff6$107d91f0$3178b5d0$@tpg.com.au>
	s=q20121106; t=1389580849;
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	37lv/FIH6mMgQ==
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick,

The procedure is simple and essentially British:  bolster the gearbox and O/D and remove the car from around it.

Actually, I've done a BN2 and a BJ8, and they're basically the same.  For the BJ8, remove the seats, console and gearbox 
cover. Remove the starter, and I believe you have to remove the propshaft completely.  Unbolt and support the slave 
cylinder, rear mounts and the fansaver tierod.  Support the bellhousing and engine at the backplate, remove the bolts 
and you can pull the gearbox/OD rearward enough to free them, then lift both out of the car (in my youth I lifted them 
myself, but I'm older, weaker and wiser now and would need a hoist).

As always, replacement is the reverse of removal.

Bob


On 1/12/2014 4:26 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
> G'day
>
>   
>
> I am about to do something that in 42 years of Austin-Healey ownership I
> have managed to avoid.
>
>   
>
> That's the removal of a BJ8 gearbox.
>
>   
>
> I have removed many a BN1 box and have lost count of the number of times I
> have removed and refitted the gearbox (100S + OD) in the BN3 and have even
> removed a gearbox in a real Healey, but never one from a BJ8.
>
>   
>
> Please tell me that apart from the console and other modern (?) stuff there
> isn't much of a difference?
>
>   
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>   
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 22:44:39 2014
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References: <006701cf0ff6$107d91f0$3178b5d0$@tpg.com.au>
	<52D3522F.6080101@comcast.net>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2014 19:53:54 -0800
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would contact Doug Reid (Mr. Finespanner) and buy one of his remote
bleeder extensions for the clutch slave while you have the gearbox out.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Sun, Jan 12, 2014 at 6:40 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> The procedure is simple and essentially British:  bolster the gearbox and
> O/D and remove the car from around it.
>
> Actually, I've done a BN2 and a BJ8, and they're basically the same.  For
> the BJ8, remove the seats, console and gearbox cover. Remove the starter,
> and I believe you have to remove the propshaft completely.  Unbolt and
> support the slave cylinder, rear mounts and the fansaver tierod.  Support
> the bellhousing and engine at the backplate, remove the bolts and you can
> pull the gearbox/OD rearward enough to free them, then lift both out of the
> car (in my youth I lifted them myself, but I'm older, weaker and wiser now
> and would need a hoist).
>
> As always, replacement is the reverse of removal.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 1/12/2014 4:26 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
>
>> G'day
>>
>>
>> I am about to do something that in 42 years of Austin-Healey ownership I
>> have managed to avoid.
>>
>>
>> That's the removal of a BJ8 gearbox.
>>
>>
>> I have removed many a BN1 box and have lost count of the number of times I
>> have removed and refitted the gearbox (100S + OD) in the BN3 and have even
>> removed a gearbox in a real Healey, but never one from a BJ8.
>>
>>
>> Please tell me that apart from the console and other modern (?) stuff
>> there
>> isn't much of a difference?
>>
>>
>> Hoo Roo
>>
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>>
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 13 03:45:38 2014
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References: <006701cf0ff6$107d91f0$3178b5d0$@tpg.com.au>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 19:52:48 +1100
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

As everyone else said, pretty much same as all other Healeys, except Sprites.
Sheer luxury that you can remove the gearbox without having to remove the
engine - which you have to do in a spridget!!
And I'd factor in new gearbox mount rubbers, which will be those oil soaked
black blobs you'll find under the gearbox, and on a BJ8, the nylon bush under
the gear stick. That nylon bush makes a huge difference to driving.
Oh, and don't forget to drain the gearbox oil BEFORE you remove the
tailshaft...... Or factor in new carpets... :-)
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 13 Jan 2014, at 11:26 am, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn"
<p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> I am about to do something that in 42 years of Austin-Healey ownership I
> have managed to avoid.
>
>
>
> That's the removal of a BJ8 gearbox.
>
>
>
> I have removed many a BN1 box and have lost count of the number of times I
> have removed and refitted the gearbox (100S + OD) in the BN3 and have even
> removed a gearbox in a real Healey, but never one from a BJ8.
>
>
>
> Please tell me that apart from the console and other modern (?) stuff there
> isn't much of a difference?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 13 06:38:27 2014
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	Mon, 13 Jan 2014 06:06:17 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>,	"'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>
References: <006701cf0ff6$107d91f0$3178b5d0$@tpg.com.au>
	<52D3522F.6080101@comcast.net>
	<CACPMnYri0ejSvEj9X9LSq3a6ho7+im5Qb43BgKPZj9Uc+oZD+Q@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 07:06:15 -0500
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Content-language: en-us
Cc: 'Ahealey help' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Doug's email address is: mrfinespanner@earthlink.net

Terrific product that has saved me a lot of bad words.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2014 10:54 PM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal

I would contact Doug Reid (Mr. Finespanner) and buy one of his remote
bleeder extensions for the clutch slave while you have the gearbox out.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Sun, Jan 12, 2014 at 6:40 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> The procedure is simple and essentially British:  bolster the gearbox 
> and O/D and remove the car from around it.
>
> Actually, I've done a BN2 and a BJ8, and they're basically the same.  
> For the BJ8, remove the seats, console and gearbox cover. Remove the 
> starter, and I believe you have to remove the propshaft completely.  
> Unbolt and support the slave cylinder, rear mounts and the fansaver 
> tierod.  Support the bellhousing and engine at the backplate, remove 
> the bolts and you can pull the gearbox/OD rearward enough to free 
> them, then lift both out of the car (in my youth I lifted them myself, 
> but I'm older, weaker and wiser now and would need a hoist).
>
> As always, replacement is the reverse of removal.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 1/12/2014 4:26 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
>
>> G'day
>>
>>
>> I am about to do something that in 42 years of Austin-Healey 
>> ownership I have managed to avoid.
>>
>>
>> That's the removal of a BJ8 gearbox.
>>
>>
>> I have removed many a BN1 box and have lost count of the number of 
>> times I have removed and refitted the gearbox (100S + OD) in the BN3 
>> and have even removed a gearbox in a real Healey, but never one from a
BJ8.
>>
>>
>> Please tell me that apart from the console and other modern (?) stuff 
>> there isn't much of a difference?
>>
>>
>> Hoo Roo
>>
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>>
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ 
> options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 13 09:16:49 2014
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 8:21:22 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,  Chris Dimmock
	<austin.healey@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

As well as with the E-Type Chris.  The Healey removal is a piece of cake compared.  I've pulled the E-Type engine several times and need a month of psychologic therapy before starting:)

Tom
---- Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
As everyone else said, pretty much same as all other Healeys, except Sprites.
Sheer luxury that you can remove the gearbox without having to remove the
engine - which you have to do in a spridget!!
And I'd factor in new gearbox mount rubbers, which will be those oil soaked
black blobs you'll find under the gearbox, and on a BJ8, the nylon bush under
the gear stick. That nylon bush makes a huge difference to driving.
Oh, and don't forget to drain the gearbox oil BEFORE you remove the
tailshaft...... Or factor in new carpets... :-)
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 13 Jan 2014, at 11:26 am, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn"
<p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> I am about to do something that in 42 years of Austin-Healey ownership I
> have managed to avoid.
>
>
>
> That's the removal of a BJ8 gearbox.
>
>
>
> I have removed many a BN1 box and have lost count of the number of times I
> have removed and refitted the gearbox (100S + OD) in the BN3 and have even
> removed a gearbox in a real Healey, but never one from a BJ8.
>
>
>
> Please tell me that apart from the console and other modern (?) stuff there
> isn't much of a difference?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 13 10:55:48 2014
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References: <006701cf0ff6$107d91f0$3178b5d0$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 22:14:16 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

In the immortal words of Rob Schneider "You can DO IT!"

Definitely make sure you block up the bottom of the sump for support, and
take out the carb linkage connection so you don't bend it or break it.

When you slide the whole unit off the back of the motor, you'll need to
push the bell housing over to the passenger footwell (assuming you didn't
remove the steering wheel) and then pull it forward a bit to get the back
end out of the propshaft tunnel ,

It helps to have a couple of young guys to help out, but probably if you
have a proper lift/straps handy that might make it easier.

good luck!

Alan


On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 8:26 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> I am about to do something that in 42 years of Austin-Healey ownership I
> have managed to avoid.
>
>
>
> That's the removal of a BJ8 gearbox.
>
>
>
> I have removed many a BN1 box and have lost count of the number of times I
> have removed and refitted the gearbox (100S + OD) in the BN3 and have even
> removed a gearbox in a real Healey, but never one from a BJ8.
>
>
>
> Please tell me that apart from the console and other modern (?) stuff there
> isn't much of a difference?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 00:00:43 2014
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 20:13:13 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Starter Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and star over
BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than just
solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the coils
re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just using this as
the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 03:38:55 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 23:09:31 -0800
References: <DivS1n00v0NyJgq01ivT7P>
To: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just got the gear reduction starter.

Very easy job.

Worth it.




On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:13 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:

> Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and star over
> BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
> attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than just
> solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the coils
> re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just using this as
> the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 05:00:37 2014
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References: <CAA-dtXZV2Of+MX5=20+hCVpJWVCpts0UO2MxxywAgmEKLq6Exg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 15:57:29 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, any local auto-electrical rebuilder should be able to rewrap the
starter and rebuild it for you.  These guys do specialty applications and
industrial stuff, so they are set up to deal with stuff like this.  You can
go gear reduction too, honestly they are much better... but my old Lucas
has been serving my BJ8 and BN1 both faithfully for decades without
problems, just slow on the go over.  Of course I'm a obsessive compulsive
on keeping my cars in perfect tune, so the old starters work fine with me.


On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 9:13 AM, Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com> wrote:

> Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and star over
> BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
> attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than just
> solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the coils
> re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just using this as
> the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 05:35:48 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 03:50:45 -0500
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAA-dtXZV2Of+MX5=20+hCVpJWVCpts0UO2MxxywAgmEKLq6Exg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike,

BCS sells the cloth tape to rewrap the coil if you want to tackle it 
yourself.  Don't know where you're located; I've had good luck at Stan's 
Auto Electric in Indy for getting Lucas stuff rebuilt.

I'm a bit surprised that the brushes are soldered.  I thought that most 
brushes had a flexible lead with a terminal on the other end that was 
attached with a screw.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 01/13/2014 08:13 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:
> Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and star over
> BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
> attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than just
> solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the coils
> re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just using this as
> the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 18:17:51 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 13:25:13 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think it really boils down to whether or not you are interested in keeping
you car original or not.  If it is correctly (professionally?) rebuilt it
should be very reliable. If originality is not important to you then obviously
the gear reduction starter is probably cheaper & quicker.
Gary H.






On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:13 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:

> Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and star over
> BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
> attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than just
> solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the coils
> re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just using this as
> the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 22:11:07 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 11:14:26 -0800
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Exactly right.

Gear reduction starter works great and is cheaper.

Keep the original and rebuild it on your time. If you ever want to sell, no
damage done.



On Jan 14, 2014, at 10:25 AM, Warthodson@aol.com wrote:

> I think it really boils down to whether or not you are interested in keeping
you car original or not.  If it is correctly (professionally?) rebuilt it
should be very reliable. If originality is not important to you then obviously
the gear reduction starter is probably cheaper & quicker.
> Gary H.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 22:46:19 2014
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Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Starter Question
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think it really boils down to whether or not you are interested in keeping
you car original or not.  If it is correctly (professionally?) rebuilt it
should be very reliable. If originality is not important to you then obviously
the gear reduction starter is probably cheaper & quicker.
Gary H.






On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:13 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:

> Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and star over
> BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
> attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than just
> solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the coils
> re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just using this as
> the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 23:21:38 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 20:04:12 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac8RY8sXfNmJS1ueRvSUAq791bBMgg==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Weber manifold related queries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

It might not have escaped your collective attention that I'm in the throes
of installing 3 Webers in my 3000. I have yet more questions........

 

1)      I note that my MKII BT7 (tricarb) has a 3 way breather tube linking
its three, currently fitted, individual inlet manifolds. Furthermore, BMC
attached sufficient thought to this breather business as to actually
increase the size of said breather tube during MKII production. Yet the
manifolds which I've just purchased have no provision for a breather tube.
What do you think?

2)      My car has a factory fitted servo so I need a vacuum feed for that.
The manifold plug hole, pre-drilled in one (only) of the manifolds, is quite
small. How big a pipe does one need to keep the servo happy?

 

Thank you,

Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 23:57:37 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 12:05:18 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] hagerty and car values
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy all you Healeyistas out there.
Our local club had a meeting this weekend and the special guest talked
about his experiences after his car was totaled. From the photos, it was
the best sorted nasty boy I have ever seen. Unfortunately it wa a total
loss. One point I want to pass along is that is was recommended that we up
the value of our cars each year by at least $5Kwhen we renew our policies.
British cars are hot again and prices are raising. I requested an increase
on the agreed value from $45K USD to 55K as I an in the last stages of my
resto. No problem the price increase went through without question.
cheers
and remember to keep the shiny side up
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 02:36:50 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 15:20:36 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] test for me. no need to reply
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 04:45:15 2014
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	<8D0DF6D19B6E2B5-2608-61AE7@webmail-d140.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 18:05:02 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: warthodson@aol.com
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My oem starter was not very reliable. I had to rebuild it after 35 years

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
On Jan 14, 2014 10:25 AM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

> I think it really boils down to whether or not you are interested in
> keeping
> you car original or not.  If it is correctly (professionally?) rebuilt it
> should be very reliable. If originality is not important to you then
> obviously
> the gear reduction starter is probably cheaper & quicker.
> Gary H.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:13 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:
>
> > Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and star
> over
> > BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
> > attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than just
> > solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the coils
> > re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just using this as
> > the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
> > Cheers,
> > Mike Tobin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 05:41:31 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 18:40:02 -0800
References: <62FA8C2E-29E1-4F66-9FCB-D41171BDB9BA@cox.net>
	<8D0DF6D19B6E2B5-2608-61AE7@webmail-d140.sysops.aol.com>
	<E2501n02B158eZm01252au>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah. I hear ya. My EOM starter just plain failed a couple of weeks ago.
Totally let me down after being in that car since 1958. It's older than me.



On Jan 14, 2014, at 6:05 PM, I Erbs wrote:

> My oem starter was not very reliable. I had to rebuild it after 35 years
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> Portland, OR.
>
> Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
>
> On Jan 14, 2014 10:25 AM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
> I think it really boils down to whether or not you are interested in
keeping
> you car original or not.  If it is correctly (professionally?) rebuilt it
> should be very reliable. If originality is not important to you then
obviously
> the gear reduction starter is probably cheaper & quicker.
> Gary H.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:13 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:
>
> > Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and star
over
> > BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
> > attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than just
> > solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the coils
> > re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just using this as
> > the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
> > Cheers,
> > Mike Tobin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 06:16:31 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 18:53:03 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Curse you Joseph Lucas

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
On Jan 14, 2014 6:40 PM, "Wilko2" <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:

> Yeah. I hear ya. My EOM starter just plain failed a couple of weeks ago.
> Totally let me down after being in that car since 1958. It's older than me.
>
>
>
> On Jan 14, 2014, at 6:05 PM, I Erbs wrote:
>
> My oem starter was not very reliable. I had to rebuild it after 35 years
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> Portland, OR.
>
> Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
> On Jan 14, 2014 10:25 AM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> I think it really boils down to whether or not you are interested in
>> keeping
>> you car original or not.  If it is correctly (professionally?) rebuilt it
>> should be very reliable. If originality is not important to you then
>> obviously
>> the gear reduction starter is probably cheaper & quicker.
>> Gary H.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:13 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:
>>
>> > Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and star
>> over
>> > BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
>> > attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than just
>> > solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the coils
>> > re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just using this as
>> > the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
>> > Cheers,
>> > Mike Tobin
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 08:18:41 2014
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 22:06:37 -0800
	FILETIME=[F39920E0:01CF11B7]
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on TV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There is a commercial for Nicorette with a red Healey on a lift. Anyone know
who's?
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 08:55:53 2014
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <008501cf1163$cceea4a0$66cbede0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 17:51:56 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac8RY8sXfNmJS1ueRvSUAq791bBMggAYh7Ag
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber manifold related queries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Simon
Webers do not have balance tubes fitted-each throat is individual.

I am running  5/8" o/d hose to a PBR VH40 booster and works fine. I was
initially worried about drawing off 1 runner but is ok
Cheers
John Rowe
Qld Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Wednesday, 15 January 2014 6:04 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Weber manifold related queries

Hi,

It might not have escaped your collective attention that I'm in the throes
of installing 3 Webers in my 3000. I have yet more questions........

 

1)      I note that my MKII BT7 (tricarb) has a 3 way breather tube linking
its three, currently fitted, individual inlet manifolds. Furthermore, BMC
attached sufficient thought to this breather business as to actually
increase the size of said breather tube during MKII production. Yet the
manifolds which I've just purchased have no provision for a breather tube.
What do you think?

2)      My car has a factory fitted servo so I need a vacuum feed for that.
The manifold plug hole, pre-drilled in one (only) of the manifolds, is quite
small. How big a pipe does one need to keep the servo happy?

 

Thank you,

Simon
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 09:31:15 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 11:26:15 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <DivS1n00v0NyJgq01ivT7P>
	<62FA8C2E-29E1-4F66-9FCB-D41171BDB9BA@cox.net>
	<8D0DF6D19B6E2B5-2608-61AE7@webmail-d140.sysops.aol.com>
	<8D0DF78C944D56A-1F44-63094@webmail-d244.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd:  Starter Question
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And easier on the battery!!
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


warthodson@aol.com schreef op 14-1-2014 20:48:
> I think it really boils down to whether or not you are interested in keeping
> you car original or not.  If it is correctly (professionally?) rebuilt it
> should be very reliable. If originality is not important to you then obviously
> the gear reduction starter is probably cheaper & quicker.
> Gary H.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 10:49:21 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 11:38:24 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <008501cf1163$cceea4a0$66cbede0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber manifold related queries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I prefer not to have balancing pipes/tubes on Webers/DellOrto's etc. The 
charm is to have in fact six individual carbs, one for each cylinder. 
The two barrels of each carb are not balanced ether. It would be a shame 
to upset that with balancing pipes. Also balancing pipes will make 
tuning a lot more difficult as the carbs will influence one another when 
setting up. It is much easier to set up each carb/barrel individually as 
you can fine tune it for that particular cylinder without a disturbance 
from other factors.
The internal diameter for the vacuum servo does not need to be big, 4 mm 
is fine. Use a non collapsible hose though!!
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Simon Lachlan schreef op 14-1-2014 21:04:
> Hi,
>
> It might not have escaped your collective attention that I'm in the throes
> of installing 3 Webers in my 3000. I have yet more questions........
>
>   
>
> 1)      I note that my MKII BT7 (tricarb) has a 3 way breather tube linking
> its three, currently fitted, individual inlet manifolds. Furthermore, BMC
> attached sufficient thought to this breather business as to actually
> increase the size of said breather tube during MKII production. Yet the
> manifolds which I've just purchased have no provision for a breather tube.
> What do you think?
>
> 2)      My car has a factory fitted servo so I need a vacuum feed for that.
> The manifold plug hole, pre-drilled in one (only) of the manifolds, is quite
> small. How big a pipe does one need to keep the servo happy?
>
>   
>
> Thank you,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4259 / Virusdatabase: 3658/7002 - datum van uitgifte: 01/14/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 13:44:05 2014
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From: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 07:39:36 -0500
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had my starter and generator rebuilt by strator auto in ca. 3 day turn
around. Painted correct color and no complaints. Very knowledgable guys

Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248



> On Jan 14, 2014, at 9:05 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> My oem starter was not very reliable. I had to rebuild it after 35 years
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> Portland, OR.
>
> Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
>> On Jan 14, 2014 10:25 AM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> I think it really boils down to whether or not you are interested in
>> keeping
>> you car original or not.  If it is correctly (professionally?) rebuilt it
>> should be very reliable. If originality is not important to you then
>> obviously
>> the gear reduction starter is probably cheaper & quicker.
>> Gary H.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:13 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:
>>>
>>> Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and star
>> over
>>> BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
>>> attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than just
>>> solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the coils
>>> re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just using this as
>>> the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
>>> Cheers,
>>> Mike Tobin
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 14:41:24 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 7:51:25 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, warthodson@aol.com
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
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Speaking of an original starter---I have one sitting on the shelf doing nothing but looking good.  No point of keeping it---anyone interested contact me off list.

tom
---- I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
My oem starter was not very reliable. I had to rebuild it after 35 years

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
On Jan 14, 2014 10:25 AM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

> I think it really boils down to whether or not you are interested in
> keeping
> you car original or not.  If it is correctly (professionally?) rebuilt it
> should be very reliable. If originality is not important to you then
> obviously
> the gear reduction starter is probably cheaper & quicker.
> Gary H.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:13 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:
>
> > Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and star
> over
> > BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
> > attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than just
> > solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the coils
> > re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just using this as
> > the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
> > Cheers,
> > Mike Tobin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 15:26:50 2014
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2014 00:04:23 +1100
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber manifold related queries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Simon,
Here are my thoughts...
1. I think you mean a balance pipe, which is typically only required when one
carb feeds more than one cylinder.
Triple webers are effectively one throat, via one runner, per cylinder.
Therefore no balance pipe is required. I have never seen a triple weber
manifold for a 6 cylinder engine that has balance pipes between the individual
manifold runners
2. I don't think it matters. Again, most weber manifolds have one hole for
vacuum. Use the one off your SU manifold.
Bonus answer 3.... Before you ask..
You can't have vacuum advance if you have a Lucas distributor with triple
webers, so don't worry about connecting that up....
Best
Chris


Sent from my iPhone

> On 15 Jan 2014, at 7:04 am, "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> It might not have escaped your collective attention that I'm in the throes
> of installing 3 Webers in my 3000. I have yet more questions........
>
>
>
> 1)      I note that my MKII BT7 (tricarb) has a 3 way breather tube linking
> its three, currently fitted, individual inlet manifolds. Furthermore, BMC
> attached sufficient thought to this breather business as to actually
> increase the size of said breather tube during MKII production. Yet the
> manifolds which I've just purchased have no provision for a breather tube.
> What do you think?
>
> 2)      My car has a factory fitted servo so I need a vacuum feed for that.
> The manifold plug hole, pre-drilled in one (only) of the manifolds, is
quite
> small. How big a pipe does one need to keep the servo happy?
>
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> Simon
> ___________________
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 17:19:02 2014
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To: tahoehealey@hotmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey on TV
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Here's the link.  http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7f2t/nicorette-i-quit

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jan 15, 2014 10:02 am
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on TV


There is a commercial for Nicorette with a red Healey on a lift. Anyone
know
who's?
Rich Kahn
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 17:55:33 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 08:11:51 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber manifold related queries
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The "breather tube" is actually a vacuum manifold that is needed for the S.U.
to control the fuel mixture by raising lowering the needles via those
dashpots. Webers don't work that way, so the tube connecting them isn't
needed.

Rick



On Jan 14, 2014, at 12:04 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote:

> Hi,
>
> It might not have escaped your collective attention that I'm in the throes
> of installing 3 Webers in my 3000. I have yet more questions........
>
>
>
> 1)      I note that my MKII BT7 (tricarb) has a 3 way breather tube linking
> its three, currently fitted, individual inlet manifolds. Furthermore, BMC
> attached sufficient thought to this breather business as to actually
> increase the size of said breather tube during MKII production. Yet the
> manifolds which I've just purchased have no provision for a breather tube.
> What do you think?
>
> 2)      My car has a factory fitted servo so I need a vacuum feed for that.
> The manifold plug hole, pre-drilled in one (only) of the manifolds, is
quite
> small. How big a pipe does one need to keep the servo happy?
>
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes the sound is very different. But hey, it's out of sight, and once the car
is running, you don't hear itit's job is done. They are easier on the
battery. They don't require any permanent change to the car. They save some
weight.

There was recently a set of Weber carbs from a Healey conversion on ebay and
the seller cited the sound as the main reason he was selling them.

Rick

On Jan 15, 2014, at 5:23 AM, Thomas Willig wrote:

> ..on top, I encounter also that some friends want to get rid of  their
reduction starter and go back  to the good old Lucas unit, because they found
out that their cars sound like Honda/Mazda/Toyota  when starting. In my BN2, I
have a rebuild starter motor, which performs faultlessly. I would never fit
one of these modern replacements..
>
> Kind regards
>
> Thomas Willig
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Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 14:40:38 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: LKN Sports Car Group: Neat Shell/Ferrari Commercial
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

No Healey Content, but some pretty good Ferrari content

Enjoy,

Bob Johnson





Shell Gasoline Commercial for Ferrari



Here's a Shell commercial shown in Europe only couple minutes long. They're
selling gasoline, but the cars used in the video steal the show. Ferrari
pulled several of their race cars from various ages out of
storage, flew them around the world, and filmed them running through the
streets of Rome, Rio, New York, Hong Kong, Honolulu, and Monaco. The best
part is the sound - from the basso-profundo notes of the early,
front-engine era, each scene cuts to a later generation, ending with the
wail of a modern F1 car.

Even if you're not a gearhead, this video will stir the soul. There's just
something about 3 liters and 14,000 RPM!


http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=1_kwxzU4wL4&vq=medium
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 16 02:25:13 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 13:00:08 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYrxgdfm75Sp80MLYA0ybHX9ygoBkfDfZm_2_bBUCDfPjw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] test for me. no need to reply
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The server is having some difficulties, delivery times are REALLY long. 
  I'm trying to track it down.

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 16 03:00:58 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 15:01:48 -0600 (CST)
From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
	(Win)/5.0.19_GA_3083.RHEL5_64)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey service
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Can anyone supply contact info for reliable persons or businesses familiar with working on big healeys in the south east? Pensacola FL is the bullseye of my search target . 
Need to have some transmission work (syncros) done then get my interior correctly finished. 

TIA 

Tim Davis BN7 
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 16:15:16 -0800
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	<EQCG1n01K0NyJgq01QCHpj>
To: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey on TV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

we were chatting about that one a couple of weeks back...

I may have pics of the car, but not sure if it's the same one.





On Jan 15, 2014, at 8:04 AM, Larry Wendland wrote:

> Here's the link.  http://www.ispot.tv/ad/7f2t/nicorette-i-quit
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Jan 15, 2014 10:02 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey on TV
>
>
> There is a commercial for Nicorette with a red Healey on a lift. Anyone
> know
> who's?
> Rich Kahn
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 16 08:04:22 2014
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From: <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2014 02:49:05 +0000
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my bj8 starter finally gave it up after numerous overhauls on my workbench.  armature gave out and i replaced it with an old one i had taken out of another car.  probably will outlast me.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 16 09:34:43 2014
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From: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 23:52:11 -0500
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry typo!!

Should be www.starautoelectric.com

They actually have healey related info on their site. I send them a starter,
generator and misc stuff and within a week it came back looking like new.

Probably best customer service I've had in years. Called me when received and
when everything would ship. Looks like CA AH club has some experience also as
there is a link on their site

Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248



> On Jan 15, 2014, at 4:30 PM, "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Do you have address, email, web site info that I can use to list them on my
> site??
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Simon Atkinson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 7:40 AM
> To: I Erbs
> Cc: Ahealey help
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Question
>
> I had my starter and generator rebuilt by strator auto in ca. 3 day turn
> around. Painted correct color and no complaints. Very knowledgable guys
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
>
>
>
>> On Jan 14, 2014, at 9:05 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> My oem starter was not very reliable. I had to rebuild it after 35
>> years
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> IT Educator and Consultant
>> Portland, OR.
>>
>> Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
>>> On Jan 14, 2014 10:25 AM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I think it really boils down to whether or not you are interested in
>>> keeping you car original or not.  If it is correctly
>>> (professionally?) rebuilt it should be very reliable. If originality
>>> is not important to you then obviously the gear reduction starter is
>>> probably cheaper & quicker.
>>> Gary H.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:13 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Got the starter apart as part the take the whole thing a part and
>>>> star
>>> over
>>>> BT7 project.  The wrapping on one of the field coils is gone and the
>>>> attached brush is just dangling.  Guessing I need to do more than
>>>> just solder on a new brush (they're all just nubs).  Do I get the
>>>> coils re-wrapped (where)?  Is it worth it?  I'm thinking of just
>>>> using this as the excuse to get a gear-reduction starter.
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Mike Tobin
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
>>> donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 16 12:32:20 2014
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2014 20:21:51 +1100
To: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: LKN Sports Car Group: Neat Shell/Ferrari
 Commercial
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,
It's a great Ad. Apparently it was one of the most expensive TV commercials
ever made, if not the most expensive, when it was made about 6 years ago. Some
of it was filmed in Australia, on the sea cliff bridge
http://images.getconnected.dnsw.com.au/multimedia/Original__9279536_TNSW_Gran
d_Pacific_Drive__HighDark_Aerial1.jpg - not long after it first opened - as
well as many other countries, so we got it on TV here too.
Just awesome. Thanks for sharing!
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 16 Jan 2014, at 6:40 am, Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> No Healey Content, but some pretty good Ferrari content
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Bob Johnson
>
>
>
>
>
> Shell Gasoline Commercial for Ferrari
>
>
>
> Here's a Shell commercial shown in Europe only couple minutes long. They're
> selling gasoline, but the cars used in the video steal the show. Ferrari
> pulled several of their race cars from various ages out of
> storage, flew them around the world, and filmed them running through the
> streets of Rome, Rio, New York, Hong Kong, Honolulu, and Monaco. The best
> part is the sound - from the basso-profundo notes of the early,
> front-engine era, each scene cuts to a later generation, ending with the
> wail of a modern F1 car.
>
> Even if you're not a gearhead, this video will stir the soul. There's just
> something about 3 liters and 14,000 RPM!
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=1_kwxzU4wL4&vq=medium
> ________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 16 19:35:30 2014
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2014 11:55:59 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Starter Problem - Conclusion With a little philosophy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

When I asked the question I pretty much knew my options, but wanted to get
the benefit of this group's experience and make sure I wasn't missing
anything.  I figure getting it rebuilt  would cost about what reduction
starter would cost and I didn't know about re-wrapping the coils (had never
done that).  Then responses starting coming (never figured so many on such
a mundane subject) and the solution become more philosophical than the
standard cost/schedule/performance (pick two) technical decision.

My first goal for the project was to build the Healey I could have had back
in early '70s (when it was our every-day car) if I'd had the money, time
and access to resources I have now.  This means headers, bigger tires and
wheels, a spin-on oil filter and none of those stupid wire hose clamps.  It
also means no 5 speed.
Second, I want to be able say I've done everything myself except for the
machine work.  This means I'll fix anything myself rather pay to have it
done unless there are tools involved I can't afford.

Third, I don't want to end up with "George Washington's hatchet" (yeah,
it's the original hatchet used to chop down the cherry tree. Only the head
and handle have been replaced).  This means I'd prefer to rebuild a
component rather than replace it and functional, but visibly worn parts get
cleaned but not replaced.  The long block now looks brand new except for
the battered Austin and valve clearance plates.and the mushroomed knokoffs
will stay.
And fourth - It has to "look right" and "sound right".   This means the
clicking of the SU fuel pump stays.  Entirely subjective and YMMV as to
"right".

I was leaning toward the reduction starter. (meets rule one maybe but not
two or three).  Then Bob Haskell says BCS has the wrappiing stuff so I
think can rebuild it myself (see rules two and three).  Then Tom Willig
says some folks don't think it sounds right (rule 4) which could be a big
deal for me. With another reason to rebuild and I start cleaning out the
ton of brush dust. Then the rebuild kit for the the 3 HS4s arrives in the
mail and I think - I'd really rather spend my time doing fun work like
rebuilding carbs than cleaning out that filthy starter.  Screw it.  I'll
just throw some money at a new starter and get to work on the SUs.
I'dkeep the old one anyway and I can rebuild it if the new one's sound
offends
me.

Having re-read what I've just written I realize I'm thinking waaaay to hard
about this.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin

Pepperell, MA
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 16 20:16:33 2014
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2014 12:22:16 -0500 (EST)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1389892936;
	bh=x6pyO5hQRxjb42sFxR1tRI/YWolXkRZGZuVC5lBkIFk=;
	h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type;
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Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey Race Photos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

So this month, Sports Car Digest is posting fifty vintage race photos to  
find the top three for 2013. And ultimately the top one. So if you like 
looking  at vintage race photos here's the link. My favorite is the 1955 Porche 
550 at  the Mille Miglia with a photo of a BMW coming in a close second 
titled:  "Lights, camera, action". Of course since these are your choices for 
best of the  year, there isn't a bad one in the bunch, enjoy.
 
http://www.sportscardigest.com/best-vintage-car-racing-photo-of-2013/?awt_l=
FxEJY&awt_m=Ioa6.5sBOes.C0
 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598 
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 16 22:37:04 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2014 13:38:19 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] works healey rallying 62 63
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7RzjGW8hxc
may have made the rounds before, but worth watching.
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR
You call it happiness. I call it Acute Despair Deficit syndrome.
My Doppelgdnger wants to start resembling other people.
copied from the Nein Quarterly
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 16 22:41:23 2014
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	2014 13:41:49 -0800 (PST)
From: "Ge" <gaagten@gmail.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <002001cf117b$b5e4bcf0$21ae36d0$@bellsouth.net>
	<CAJTyXLRWXfCNXBKu871VTFb56SBoAVUsR8AkdMwvYmuauoA08A@mail.gmail.com>
	<7B7F34E6-D4AA-4C99-950C-1F03CC3FB427@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2014 22:41:49 +0100
Thread-index: AQG7zjh9mTct0xWOoxKYGGMfhNwhYALUwscHARDKHaiajzqO4A==
Content-language: nl
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: LKN Sports Car Group: Neat Shell/Ferrari
 Commercial
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello forum,

I would need some advise
I have to recore my radiator and I also intend to change fan at the same
time.(it never has been renewed).
Some years ago there was a discussion about the Texas Fan. I went through
the A-H library and found some bad remarks about this fan, destroying the
back of the cooler. Also comment about chinese quality.?
Welsch (UK) is selling these texas fans (the only supplier I could find.
Anybody has some recent experience with this fan?
Is the Welsch one also chinese production.
I have no overheating problem actually. Its just the question, or regular
fan or the Texas one.

Thanks for yr help,
Regards,  

Ge Aagten
The Netherlands
A-H BJ8 1964
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 17 06:43:58 2014
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References: <002001cf117b$b5e4bcf0$21ae36d0$@bellsouth.net>
	<CAJTyXLRWXfCNXBKu871VTFb56SBoAVUsR8AkdMwvYmuauoA08A@mail.gmail.com>
	<7B7F34E6-D4AA-4C99-950C-1F03CC3FB427@gmail.com>
	<004001cf1303$c39894a0$4ac9bde0$@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2014 22:48:51 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ge <gaagten@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: LKN Sports Car Group: Neat Shell/Ferrari
 Commercial
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Moss motors also sells the fan. I bought one for my car, bug have only
driven around the block. So I do not know about current issues

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
On Jan 16, 2014 1:41 PM, "Ge" <gaagten@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello forum,
>
> I would need some advise
> I have to recore my radiator and I also intend to change fan at the same
> time.(it never has been renewed).
> Some years ago there was a discussion about the Texas Fan. I went through
> the A-H library and found some bad remarks about this fan, destroying the
> back of the cooler. Also comment about chinese quality.?
> Welsch (UK) is selling these texas fans (the only supplier I could find.
> Anybody has some recent experience with this fan?
> Is the Welsch one also chinese production.
> I have no overheating problem actually. Its just the question, or regular
> fan or the Texas one.
>
> Thanks for yr help,
> Regards,
>
> Ge Aagten
> The Netherlands
> A-H BJ8 1964
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 17 11:16:18 2014
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Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2014 05:59:49 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, Ge <gaagten@gmail.com>
References: <002001cf117b$b5e4bcf0$21ae36d0$@bellsouth.net>
	<CAJTyXLRWXfCNXBKu871VTFb56SBoAVUsR8AkdMwvYmuauoA08A@mail.gmail.com>
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Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: LKN Sports Car Group: Neat Shell/Ferrari
 Commercial
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've had an 'original' Texas Cooler on my BJ8 for at least 50K miles--no issues.

Bob



On 1/16/2014 10:48 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> Moss motors also sells the fan. I bought one for my car, bug have only
> driven around the block. So I do not know about current issues
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> Portland, OR.
>
> Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
> On Jan 16, 2014 1:41 PM, "Ge" <gaagten@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello forum,
>>
>> I would need some advise
>> I have to recore my radiator and I also intend to change fan at the same
>> time.(it never has been renewed).
>> Some years ago there was a discussion about the Texas Fan. I went through
>> the A-H library and found some bad remarks about this fan, destroying the
>> back of the cooler. Also comment about chinese quality.?
>> Welsch (UK) is selling these texas fans (the only supplier I could find.
>> Anybody has some recent experience with this fan?
>> Is the Welsch one also chinese production.
>> I have no overheating problem actually. Its just the question, or regular
>> fan or the Texas one.
>>
>> Thanks for yr help,
>> Regards,
>>
>> Ge Aagten
>> The Netherlands
>> A-H BJ8 1964
>>
>>
>>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 17 16:08:11 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2014 07:54:26 -0800
To: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>, Ahealey help
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: LKN Sports Car Group: Neat Shell/Ferrari
 Commercial
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Moss has started selling them again as new and improved. I hope so.....

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Fri, Jan 17, 2014 at 7:26 AM, Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net> wrote:

> I installed on a customer's car in early 2009,  I was standing over the
> front of the car observing it at idle, and it was pulling A LOT more air
> than the standard fan.  Then it exploded (came apart) in my face.  Luckily,
> I only suffered some small cuts.
>
> I contacted Moss immediately and they arranged an immediate refund and
> replacement sent via overnight.  They stopped carrying the fan shortly
> thereafter.
>
> I am sure if I was the only one that had the problem, but it is my
> understanding that my experience was not isolated.
>
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting Services, LLC
> 702.882.6711
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