Subject: Re: [Healeys] reproduction hand brake stuff bitches

From: "BJ8Healeys" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 12:57:12 -0400

Ken, this past March I replaced both of the countersunk Phillips head
handbrake screws.  I did have some interference at first between the screw
heads and the handbrake plate, but was able to remove that with slight
grinding that didn't significantly remove the Phillips cross.  Of course,
grinding will remove any protective finish from the fastener and allow
surface rust unless treated.  I bought my screws from British Car
Specialists.
It does seem that many of the replacement parts now available are in some
ways different from the originals, and require "adjustments".  Better than
not available at all, though, I think.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of
[email-masked]
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 12:00 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] reproduction hand brake stuff bitches

1-I put a new hand brake cable on the BJ8 this week. The minor drama there
is that the captive nut is 11/16 across the wrench flats. The original is
9/16 (thin). One can't swing the big 11/16 wrench in the tunnel without
hitting the drive shaft. My tool box was empty with distributor wrenches,
crows feet, multiple extensions, metric wrenches, you name it. I was not
going to take the drive shaft off. Its done, but I don't know how I did it.

2-The hand brake plate is held with two large Phillips head countersunk
screws. These screws have a special reduced head height so the brake handle
doesn't interfere with the heads. The nameless Healey suppliers list the
screws in the catalogs, but they are nothing more than standard stuff you
can get in the hardware store. These screws must have the heads ground down.
When the heads are ground down there is nothing left of the Phillips cross
for the screw driver to grab onto. The screws are too soft and round out.
Black oxide screws with Allen hex's are much better. The heads seem to be
shorter and don't require as much grinding. After the grinding there is
still enough hex to enable tightening the screw.
I wonder why the cable broke in the first place, probably when I had a ham
fisted guy weld the bracket back to the frame, he heated up the strands??
The crimping was still in place.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From: John Vrugtman <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 13:10:46 -0400

Always something with replacement parts. I spaced out the handle 
slightly with a washer and used the door hinge screws.  On my other car 
the original screws were slot head countersunk screws.
John
64/66

On 7/19/2014 11:59 AM, [email-masked] wrote:
> 1-I put a new hand brake cable on the BJ8 this week. The minor drama there is that the captive nut is 11/16 across the wrench flats. The original is 9/16 (thin). One can't swing the big 11/16 wrench in the tunnel without hitting the drive shaft. My tool box was empty with distributor wrenches, crows feet, multiple extensions, metric wrenches, you name it. I was not going to take the drive shaft off. Its done, but I don't know how I did it.
>
> 2-The hand brake plate is held with two large Phillips head countersunk screws. These screws have a special reduced head height so the brake handle doesn't interfere with the heads. The nameless Healey suppliers list the screws in the catalogs, but they are nothing more than standard stuff you can get in the hardware store. These screws must have the heads ground down. When the heads are ground down there is nothing left of the Phillips cross for the screw driver to grab onto. The screws are too soft and round out. Black oxide screws with Allen hex's are much better. The heads seem to be shorter and don't require as much grinding. After the grinding there is still enough hex to enable tightening the screw.
> I wonder why the cable broke in the first place, probably when I had a ham fisted guy weld the bracket back to the frame, he heated up the strands?? The crimping was still in place.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8

[email-masked]

---

From: Wilko2 <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 10:40:52 -0700

Phillips head?

No. That's a problem right there. Most of the original screws on british cars
are Posidrive, not phillips.

Posidrive are quite different in a number of ways including head shapes
(flatter countersunk heads) and markings.

On Jul 19, 2014, at 10:10 AM, John Vrugtman wrote:

> Always something with replacement parts. I spaced out the handle slightly
with a washer and used the door hinge screws.  On my other car the original
screws were slot head countersunk screws.
>> 1-I put a new hand brake cable on the BJ8 this week. The minor drama there
is that the captive nut is 11/16 across the wrench flats. The original is 9/16
(thin). One can't swing the big 11/16 wrench in the tunnel without hitting the
drive shaft. My tool box was empty with distributor wrenches, crows feet,
multiple extensions, metric wrenches, you name it. I was not going to take the
drive shaft off. Its done, but I don't know how I did it.
screws. These screws have a special reduced head height so the brake handle
doesn't interfere with the heads. The nameless Healey suppliers list the
screws in the catalogs, but they are nothing more than standard stuff you can
get in the hardware store. These screws must have the heads ground down. When
the heads are ground down there is nothing left of the Phillips cross for the
screw driver to grab onto. The screws are too soft and round out. Black oxide
screws with Allen hex's are much better. The heads seem to be shorter and
don't require as much grinding. After the grinding there is still enough hex
to enable tightening the screw.
>> I wonder why the cable broke in the first place, probably when I had a ham
fisted guy weld the bracket back to the frame, he heated up the strands?? The
crimping was still in place.
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