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Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2014 11:18:04 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CANQM1PKYyd8c3nNj5uMpw1GqqU7ykjCkb1Jvknd3DwROm5NY6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Get proper 7" units that take the genuine H4 Halogen bulbs instead of 
replacing the present Tungsten bulbs with adapted so called H4 Halogen 
bulbs (which they are not). These adapted replacements have the 
filaments in the wrong spot and therefore do not have the proper light 
image. In Europe they are illegal. If you have US Tungsten sealed beam 
units now I presume you can safely replace them with US Halogen units. 
For some reason sealed beams are not legal in Europe/Continent.
You can go even one step further and fit a HID Xenon kit. There are kits 
around that replace the old 7" units.
Also consider wiring your head lights through relays. Easier on the 
switches and wiring and when upgrading the wire thickness from relay and 
earth to light bulb, more Volts and thus power to the brighter headlights.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Tom schreef op 1-8-2014 0:58:
> Hi,
>
> A couple trips home in the dark and the recent lighting issue in the AH
> club magazine has gotten my thinking about replacing the headlights in my
> car.  The PO put about 5000 miles on the car in 20+ years that he owned it,
> so the headlights could easily be 30 years old.
>
> There's a lot of discussion in the archives, and I'm more confused than
> when I started.
>
> Is there a sealed halogen lamp that's a direct replacement for our U.S.
> Healeys?   Something that I could ask for in my local auto parts store?
>
> If I go the H4-aftermarket route, are there any advantages to the H4
> conversion?  Will any good-quality 7" H4 assembly work?
>
> thanks,
>
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7955 - datum van uitgifte: 07/31/14
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 03:23:15 2014
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Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2014 11:23:21 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CANQM1PKYyd8c3nNj5uMpw1GqqU7ykjCkb1Jvknd3DwROm5NY6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <000001cfad1b$a647f690$f2d7e3b0$@com.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The Hella units are fine, I have used them since 1977. There are other 
official Halogen lights: e.g. Cibii, Saturn and even correctly shaped 
Lucas units from a late original Mini, Landrover Defender, Range Rover 
and several other UK cars.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


John Rowe schreef op 1-8-2014 2:00:
> Hi Tom
> I run Hella h4 headlights in both my cars.60/55 bulbs, no relays, standard
> wiring although new.
> The light is fantastic, no need for driving lights. The only negative is
> they have a flat glass, not curved, so not politically correct, but I don't
> care.
> Cheers
> John Rowe
> Qld Australia
> BN1 BT7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom
> Sent: Friday, 1 August 2014 8:59 AM
> To: Healey Mail List
> Subject: [Healeys] headlights
>
> Hi,
>
> A couple trips home in the dark and the recent lighting issue in the AH club
> magazine has gotten my thinking about replacing the headlights in my car.
> The PO put about 5000 miles on the car in 20+ years that he owned it, so the
> headlights could easily be 30 years old.
>
> There's a lot of discussion in the archives, and I'm more confused than when
> I started.
>
> Is there a sealed halogen lamp that's a direct replacement for our U.S.
> Healeys?   Something that I could ask for in my local auto parts store?
>
> If I go the H4-aftermarket route, are there any advantages to the H4
> conversion?  Will any good-quality 7" H4 assembly work?
>
> thanks,
>
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7955 - datum van uitgifte: 07/31/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 09:06:35 2014
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Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2014 11:05:03 -0400
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Servo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am installing a brake servo on my late 63 BJ7.

The workshop manual makes reference to the BJ8s having a brake servo (it
was standard on BJ8s) and a 7/8" master cylinder.  I don't know what size
master cylinder is on my BJ7.

So, the question is do I really need to change the master cylinder?  What
size is mine now and what are the consequences of not changing the master
cylinder?  How does a different size master (what I have now) effect the
servo?

What say all of the hydraulic engineers?

Fred
BJ7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 09:51:42 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAPAC+V52NxKO=BNP3DeKyUDv4rkK38gGFOtnd7EC1LS0Kph3Gg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Servo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

In theory there is no need to change the master cylinder. The servo will 
increase the pressure to the brakes with a certain factor with equal 
pedal force. Usual is 1,5 to 2,0, sometimes even 3.
There may perhaps be a change in the travel of the Master Brake 
Cylinder. If it is to large change to a bigger diameter of the MBC, if 
it becomes less you can change to a slightly smaller diameter to 
decrease pedal force even more.
It all depends on the diameter of the servo and the diameter of the 
cylinder on the servo.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Fred Wescoe schreef op 1-8-2014 17:05:
> I am installing a brake servo on my late 63 BJ7.
>
> The workshop manual makes reference to the BJ8s having a brake servo (it
> was standard on BJ8s) and a 7/8" master cylinder.  I don't know what size
> master cylinder is on my BJ7.
>
> So, the question is do I really need to change the master cylinder?  What
> size is mine now and what are the consequences of not changing the master
> cylinder?  How does a different size master (what I have now) effect the
> servo?
>
> What say all of the hydraulic engineers?
>
> Fred
> BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7959 - datum van uitgifte: 08/01/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 10:13:30 2014
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Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2014 16:13:30 +0000 (UTC)
From: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: "LIST, HEALEY" <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: brake servo hiss
Thread-Index: EmfplkstcRb8/lGWzRFFAFfUZq082Q==
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Subject: [Healeys] brake servo hiss
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,
B 
My wife and I went for a long drive last night had a great time car ran fair
...(still running rich with a miss at idle)................anyway when I
pulled into the garage I could hear a hissB  like an air leak.....when I
applied the brakes...........I never noticed this sound before...........so
now what!B B B  what should I look at (brake servo??)B how to trouble
shoot,etc.B B  Any help would be gratefully acceptedB B 
....................1966 BJ8B  ....the servo was rebuiltB  so says the PO.
B 
B 
Mitch
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 10:48:19 2014
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Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2014 16:48:23 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
References: <2138033481.43797856.1406909610937.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: brake servo hiss
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake servo hiss
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You have a snake in your servo (sorry, couldn't resist). 

When you apply the brakes, a 'slave' cylinder in the servo moves a T-valve and lets atmospheric pressure into the big vacuum canister (it holds vacuum when brakes aren't applied). A 'hiss' may be normal and you just haven't heard it before; or maybe air flow is being restricted on the intake side (which should have a small filter on it, though I think some older servos don't). My booster makes a slight popping sound when brakes applied, but works fine. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



Hello, 
B 
My wife and I went for a long drive last night had a great time car ran fair 
...(still running rich with a miss at idle)................anyway when I 
pulled into the garage I could hear a hissB like an air leak.....when I 
applied the brakes...........I never noticed this sound before...........so 
now what!B B B what should I look at (brake servo??)B how to trouble 
shoot,etc.B B Any help would be gratefully acceptedB B 
....................1966 BJ8B ....the servo was rebuiltB so says the PO. 
B 
B 
Mitch 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2014 13:47:23 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
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To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>, Mark J Bradakis
  <mark@bradakis.com>
References: <53D9798B.3000207@bradakis.com> <53D987A6.1060505@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Spridgets] Searching the archives
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Ed Kaler wrote:
> 1: E D I T   Y O U R    R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject" 
> catches you] !!
> 2:   "To:" MUST be the List you are 'replying to with ZERO 'other' 
> 'targets' ! ! !
> 3:   DELETE usage of aol, yahoo, hotmail, & MSN.
> ***XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXxxxxxxxxXXXXXXXXXXX
>
> *Mar*k, a couple weeks ago I was using both "spridgets" and "healeys" and
> DID get some 'odd' returns.  I just figured it had something to do 
> with your
> huge efforts at fixing/re-building the Archives in general* ? ! ? !*
>
> *Ed
> " Just Brits "
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 14:57:20 2014
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To: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2014 16:56:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Recommended Running In
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just perusing the Owners Handbook for #174 and came across this gem.
Referring to the first 1500 miles:
"During this period a slight falling off in engine power may develop, in which
case it will be beneficial to lightly grind in the valves and reset the valve
clearance."
Incredible!!
Also:
"The use of upper cylinder lubricant is advocated at all times"
The automotive industry has come a long way.
Michael S
BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 15:12:00 2014
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To: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>, "LIST, HEALEY"
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2014 17:11:29 -0400
References: <1501783183.43787027.1406909049388.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
 <2138033481.43797856.1406909610937.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake servo hiss
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Mitch,
To quote the Girling Manual.
"Test 2. ...Run the engine and, while the brake is being applied, it should be
possible to hear the hiss of the air inlet...."
Sounds normal to me.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Mitch" <dayton21@comcast.net>
Sent: b8/b1/b2014 12:13 PM
To: "LIST, HEALEY" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] brake servo hiss

Hello,
B
My wife and I went for a long drive last night had a great time car ran fair
...(still running rich with a miss at idle)................anyway when I
pulled into the garage I could hear a hissB  like an air leak.....when I
applied the brakes...........I never noticed this sound before...........so
now what!B B B  what should I look at (brake servo??)B how to trouble
shoot,etc.B B  Any help would be gratefully acceptedB B
....................1966 BJ8B  ....the servo was rebuiltB  so says the PO.
B
B
Mitch
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 15:40:39 2014
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Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2014 15:40:40 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] cars for projects
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I have a friend with a Bugeye wishing to sell it and all that he has to 
go with it.. Call Gil at 505-920-3546 (welding skills required)
  I have a Triumph GT6 (builder w/engine out) and a '68 Triumph GT6+ 
mostly complete. If anyone has interest in either of these cars contact 
me off list for details and pictures..
my phone # is below..
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 16:07:08 2014
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Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2014 15:04:10 -0700
From: Andy Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
To: Peter Svilans <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Peter,

Thanks for the pic. They look like the 1200cc B series engines. The only
feature I can clearly make out is the column shift gearbox of the 1952 A40
Somerset, which looks like it is LHD configuration in the pic. If you scroll
down on this page you can see the same decal plate and the hooked shift lever
on the opposite side for RHD
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300865487876

The pics I sent were enhanced screenshots out of the British Pathe film "magic
in metal" that Patrick posted the link to earlier showing the entire creation
of the C series engine from iron ore to finished unit. It is interesting that
Morris cars had grey engines and Austin had green ones. The red and grey
primers plus the chalk markings visible in the film were still on my engine
under all the crud and paint.

Andy.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 17:01:58 2014
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Subject: [Healeys] BN-1 engine ID plate
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Is there a source for correctly stamped BN-1 engine ID plates?
Gary Hodson
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 17:36:26 2014
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To: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>, healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Recommended Running In
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Doesn't everybody do that???


On 8/1/2014 1:56 PM, Michael wrote:
> I just perusing the Owners Handbook for #174 and came across this gem.
> Referring to the first 1500 miles:
> "During this period a slight falling off in engine power may develop, in which
> case it will be beneficial to lightly grind in the valves and reset the valve
> clearance."
> Incredible!!
> Also:
> "The use of upper cylinder lubricant is advocated at all times"
> The automotive industry has come a long way.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  1 18:50:15 2014
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From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: warthodson@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8D17BF3BC737ECE-271C-1E0DB@webmail-d177.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN-1 engine ID plate
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Todd Clarke at Clark Spares?

http://www.clarkespares.com/

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 08/01/2014 07:02 PM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
> Is there a source for correctly stamped BN-1 engine ID plates?
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  2 00:15:14 2014
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Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2014 23:14:46 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Recommended Running In
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

What did you think that wooden handled thing with the rubber tip in your
tool kit was for?  So you could do your valves on the side of the highway.

Curt
On Aug 1, 2014 10:57 AM, "Michael" <michael.salter@gmail.com> wrote:

> I just perusing the Owners Handbook for #174 and came across this gem.
> Referring to the first 1500 miles:
> "During this period a slight falling off in engine power may develop, in
> which
> case it will be beneficial to lightly grind in the valves and reset the
> valve
> clearance."
> Incredible!!
> Also:
> "The use of upper cylinder lubricant is advocated at all times"
> The automotive industry has come a long way.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
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From: sentenac.rw@gmail.com
To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2014 10:31:13 -0700
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Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>, Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Recommended Running In
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And Now they're finally going to tell us that tetraethyl lead cruds up
valves and makes more valve jobs necessary?

-Roland

On Fri, 1 Aug 2014 23:14:46 -0700, you wrote:

>Michael,
>
>What did you think that wooden handled thing with the rubber tip in your
>tool kit was for?  So you could do your valves on the side of the highway.
>
>Curt
>On Aug 1, 2014 10:57 AM, "Michael" <michael.salter@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I just perusing the Owners Handbook for #174 and came across this gem.
>> Referring to the first 1500 miles:
>> "During this period a slight falling off in engine power may develop, in
>> which
>> case it will be beneficial to lightly grind in the valves and reset the
>> valve
>> clearance."
>> Incredible!!
>> Also:
>> "The use of upper cylinder lubricant is advocated at all times"
>> The automotive industry has come a long way.
>> Michael S
>> BN1 #174
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  2 12:07:36 2014
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interestingly.. it's now coming to light that "modern technology" is 
causing many of the old problems to resurface. Direct fuel injection, 
which bypasses washing the valves is causing an increase in the 
necessity for "de-coking" What goes around, comes around, eh?
dave
On 8/2/2014 11:31 AM, sentenac.rw@gmail.com wrote:
And Now they're finally going to tell us that tetraethyl lead cruds up
valves and makes more valve jobs necessary?

-Roland
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  2 12:08:11 2014
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Subject: [Healeys] BN1 engine ID plate
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My 100 was built in Nov. 1953. 
How should the engine ID plate be stamped?
1B/139718
1B139718
1B 139718
none of the above-please elaborate!

Thanks,
Gary
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To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
References: <53DD2856.1010302@porterscustom.com>
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Thread-Topic: running in continued
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Yep. All the great additives--Techron, etc.--the petrol industry has spent years developing to keep intake ports and valves clean is now all but useless (will still keep the injectors clean, presumably). 

We need to go back to carburettors--anybody know of any good ones? 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



interestingly.. it's now coming to light that "modern technology" is 
causing many of the old problems to resurface. Direct fuel injection, 
which bypasses washing the valves is causing an increase in the 
necessity for "de-coking" What goes around, comes around, eh? 
dave 
On 8/2/2014 11:31 AM, sentenac.rw@gmail.com wrote: 
And Now they're finally going to tell us that tetraethyl lead cruds up 
valves and makes more valve jobs necessary? 

-Roland 
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2014 15:57:29 -0400
From: Bob <robertlarson@att.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.0
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53DD2856.1010302@porterscustom.com>
 <508981030.46549539.1407007658816.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] running in continued
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Stromberg 97's?  Or maybe Carter AFB's...

OH, this is a British car forum,  Amal GP...     Have   a 1 3/8 one?  Needed for 
my Matchless Typhoon

Bob

55BN1


On 8/2/2014 3:27 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Yep. All the great additives--Techron, etc.--the petrol industry has spent years developing to keep intake ports and valves clean is now all but useless (will still keep the injectors clean, presumably).
>
> We need to go back to carburettors--anybody know of any good ones?
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
> interestingly.. it's now coming to light that "modern technology" is
> causing many of the old problems to resurface. Direct fuel injection,
> which bypasses washing the valves is causing an increase in the
> necessity for "de-coking" What goes around, comes around, eh?
> dave
> On 8/2/2014 11:31 AM, sentenac.rw@gmail.com wrote:
> And Now they're finally going to tell us that tetraethyl lead cruds up
> valves and makes more valve jobs necessary?
>
> -Roland
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  2 14:14:31 2014
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2014 13:14:33 -0700
References: <53DD2856.1010302@porterscustom.com>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] running in continued
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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The necessity for de-coking has increased slightly. It occurs mainly in high
mile engines where oil change recommendations have been stretched/ignored. In
cars that have been maintained it really isn't much of an issue.  In 2+ years
as a service manager of a large dealership where most of the cars were GDI I
can't think of a single time we pulled a head just for de-coking.
There are also chemical treatments that will remove deposits off the valves on
GDI engines eliminating the need to pull the head.
Rick
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  2 16:40:11 2014
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Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2014 22:38:32 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
References: <53DD2856.1010302@porterscustom.com>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: running in continued
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] running in continued
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Apparently, GDI isn't all that modern, either. Our neighbor's Gullwing--a 1955, I think--has GDI. 



interestingly.. it's now coming to light that "modern technology" is 
causing many of the old problems to resurface. Direct fuel injection, 
which bypasses washing the valves is causing an increase in the 
necessity for "de-coking" What goes around, comes around, eh? 
dave 
On 8/2/2014 11:31 AM, sentenac.rw@gmail.com wrote: 
And Now they're finally going to tell us that tetraethyl lead cruds up 
valves and makes more valve jobs necessary? 

-Roland 
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  2 17:37:39 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2014 19:35:22 -0400
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Catalogs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Doing some spring cleaning (I'll get to the garage Craig) while the
weekend is a washout from the rain. I have a collection of old Moss,
Healey Surgeon, SC Austin Healey, Triple-C,Victoria British, British Car
Specialists, Apple Hydraulics,British Motoring issues from Moss,Rhode
Island Wiring, British Wire Wheel, CSR (Clarke Spares), and 2007 Ford
Racing Performance Parts. All are in excellent condition. Will ship to
the first post for the cost of Media mail, otherwise they are recycled!!

Cheers,

Doug
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  2 17:43:38 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2014 19:42:49 -0400
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Catalogs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Forgot to mention they are catalogs!!
 
> Doing some spring cleaning (I'll get to the garage Craig) while the
> weekend is a washout from the rain. I have a collection of old 
> Moss,
> Healey Surgeon, SC Austin Healey, Triple-C,Victoria British, British 
> Car
> Specialists, Apple Hydraulics,British Motoring issues from 
> Moss,Rhode
> Island Wiring, British Wire Wheel, CSR (Clarke Spares), and 2007 
> Ford
> Racing Performance Parts. All are in excellent condition. Will ship 
> to
> the first post for the cost of Media mail, otherwise they are 
> recycled!!
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg@juno.com
> 
> 
 

____________________________________________________________
The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar &#40;Don&#39;t Eat This!&#41;
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  2 22:28:12 2014
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Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 04:26:17 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: (Nash) Healey Sighting
Thread-Index: ZgQ+HXUEtjk0ITnADieXvHSNBO6jTg==
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Subject: [Healeys] (Nash) Healey Sighting
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http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2014/08/stereo-realists-donald-healey-george-mason-and-how-the-3d-craze-led-to-the-nash-healey/ 

For Ed only: 

http://tinyurl.com/kfc6dkk 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  2 23:18:05 2014
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Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2014 15:07:59 +1000
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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 more information
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (Nash) Healey Sighting
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Thanks for sharing this Bob, fascinating and well worth the read.
Cheers
Larry Varley
BN1
BT7
Early 54 Nash Healey coupe
Late 54 Nash Healey coupe
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8AF3AEE5FD6F46A5BB56BF90A2F53E92@9535DEE118EC44B>
 <004901cfac3f$ccddd180$66997480$@tpg.com.au>
 <006201cfac6a$11b047f0$3510d7d0$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 11:25:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 26C engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick and Andy,

<<   these three Pathe News films are well worthwhile. >>

Very worthwhile viewing indeed !  My head being totally stuck in the past, 
I thoroughly enjoyed watching them several times.

Remarkable how "rough and ready" the factories were in those days, with the 
furnace guys wearing everyday suit jackets and molten metal splashing 
around.  And the painter spraying without a mask like he was watering his 
garden.

I worked in a plant making car springs during high school, picking glowing 
red-hot spring leaves off the belt and punching holes in them.  For a joke, 
the guy behind would light old gloves and coffee cups into a merry blaze on 
the belt, and would laugh when your sleeve caught fire as you reached behind 
to pick up the next spring leaf.  The noise from the mini-furnaces on the 
lines was deafening,  probably 120 decibels or so ( used a decibel meter as 
part of my job years later). The day I started and shouted a comment about 
the noise, the foreman said:  "You get used to it.  If it bothers you, stick 
a bit of kleenex in your ears".  I can hardly hear the phone held up to my 
left ear now.

And remarkable too, how these same engines have held up over the decades and 
continue to provide so much enjoyment.

Thanks.
Peter 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  3 13:05:15 2014
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel direct injection
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Apparently, GDI isn't all that modern, either. Our neighbor's
Gullwing--a 1955, 
I think--has GDI. 

 

 

Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief,
The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz Club of America

Editor-at-Large, the
Austin-Healey Magazine

 

 Actually, the Gullwing's fuel injection works very
differently from modern direct injection. It was direct injection into the
cylinders but done with a mechanical fuel pump, so big problems if the engine
was allowed to idle for long periods of time, and in fact, whenever the engine
shut down, the fuel continued to pour into the cylinders -- not a great idea
washing the cylinders with raw gasoline.

But it certainly was the first
practical car engine with direct fuel injection, and Mercedes was a serious
pioneer of that technology.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  4 03:59:59 2014
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Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 04:59:50 -0500
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: Healeys List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Recommended Running In
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finally, comments from mr. ed that are palatable.
cheers,


On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 11:48 AM, Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com> wrote:

>
> _______________________________________________
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>
>


-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  4 04:49:16 2014
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Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 06:49:22 -0400
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] OD Bench Test Fail
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Finally got the transmission back together and mated to the OD.  Spun them
up on test jig and got zero oil pressure.   Electrics work fine, but I'm
not  getting any reading at all on the pressure .gauge.  I'm pretty sure
the plunger is riding on the cam (I heard it click into place when I
removed the string).  I'd rebuild the OD some years ago and it's been
sitting patiently waiting for me to get back to it.
Any suggestions before I go and dismantle the whole ting again?
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
Pepperell, MA
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References: <CAHx2=qBCvNba2pc=Ygc6q+NQ+R+sPUYJnEenBAVTEPPGuUGTFA@mail.gmail.com>
 <53D74AD8.30308@chello.nl>
 <04D9EEF2-DC56-48DD-B42F-DB909B1107A2@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 07:10:42 -0400
From: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all for your thoughtful advice.  I will install a fuel filter.
And as many of you surmised, it was a hot day as it often is in SW Florida.

Ric


On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 2:58 PM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Don't put the filter before the pump. This will increase the possibility of
> vapor lock.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 29, 2014, at 0:18, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
> >
> > A fuel filter should be fitted at all times, The usual place for it is
> just
> after the petrol pump in cars that have a Lucas electrical fuel pump. Other
> prefer the filter as near the fuel tank as possible, i.e. between tank and
> fuel pump. Car with mechanical pumps often have the fuel filter under the
> bonnet just before the fuel pump. This is not the best place because of
> under
> bonnet heat.
> >
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > NL
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > R Phillips schreef op 29-7-2014 0:09:
> >> The other day I was driving my '65 BJ8 on the highway and it happily
> >> performed by any measure.  When I pulled off the highway and made my way
> to
> >> a traffic light I had to sit through 2 cycles when it suddenly started
> to
> >> run rough and stalled.  I was able to restart but it continued running
> >> rough and then settled in.  The gas gauge red more than 1/4.  I don't
> have
> >> a fuel filter and wonder if there might be something in the bottom of my
> >> tank.
> >>
> >> So:  Is a filter recommended, if so which one and how does one clean
> out a
> >> tank?
> >>
> >> Thanks for your help.
> >>
> >> Ric
> >> 65 BJ8
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----
> >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7937 - datum van uitgifte:
> 07/28/14
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  4 05:13:15 2014
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References: <CAA-dtXZDM2GzSC8vg=x7hmi6dASnrnDuFqD92_U-JPDtQpJhkQ@mail.gmail.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 21:13:17 +1000
To: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Bench Test Fail
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Did you put oil in it???
Seen that before....

Sent from my iPhone

> On 4 Aug 2014, at 8:49 pm, Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Finally got the transmission back together and mated to the OD.  Spun them
> up on test jig and got zero oil pressure.   Electrics work fine, but I'm
> not  getting any reading at all on the pressure .gauge.  I'm pretty sure
> the plunger is riding on the cam (I heard it click into place when I
> removed the string).  I'd rebuild the OD some years ago and it's been
> sitting patiently waiting for me to get back to it.
> Any suggestions before I go and dismantle the whole ting again?
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
> Pepperell, MA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  4 05:20:01 2014
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 <6B691791-8C76-4373-9870-3F8F7520BF89@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 07:20:11 -0400
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Bench Test Fail
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah there's oil!  In fact spilled a bunch getting it on the stand - didn't
plug the speedo drive hole.
On Aug 4, 2014 7:13 AM, "Chris Dimmock" <austin.healey@gmail.com> wrote:

> Did you put oil in it???
> Seen that before....
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On 4 Aug 2014, at 8:49 pm, Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Finally got the transmission back together and mated to the OD.  Spun
> them
> > up on test jig and got zero oil pressure.   Electrics work fine, but I'm
> > not  getting any reading at all on the pressure .gauge.  I'm pretty sure
> > the plunger is riding on the cam (I heard it click into place when I
> > removed the string).  I'd rebuild the OD some years ago and it's been
> > sitting patiently waiting for me to get back to it.
> > Any suggestions before I go and dismantle the whole ting again?
> > Cheers,
> > Mike Tobin
> > Pepperell, MA
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
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To: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>,  "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 08:00:29 -0400
References: <CAA-dtXZDM2GzSC8vg=x7hmi6dASnrnDuFqD92_U-JPDtQpJhkQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Bench Test Fail
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike try running it up without the operating valve, ball, spring and cap in
place.
A good volume of oil should spill out of the hole.
That will prove the pump.
The next step is to do a pressure test.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Mike Tobin" <ahbt71@gmail.com>
Sent: b8/b4/b2014 6:49 AM
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] OD Bench Test Fail

Finally got the transmission back together and mated to the OD.  Spun them
up on test jig and got zero oil pressure.   Electrics work fine, but I'm
not  getting any reading at all on the pressure .gauge.  I'm pretty sure
the plunger is riding on the cam (I heard it click into place when I
removed the string).  I'd rebuild the OD some years ago and it's been
sitting patiently waiting for me to get back to it.
Any suggestions before I go and dismantle the whole ting again?
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
Pepperell, MA
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  4 06:19:09 2014
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Cc: "List, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Bench Test Fail
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike,
B 
Did you remove the pump during the rebuild? If so, did you remember to remove
the check valve before removing the pump? If you didn't, the housing is
scored, preventing pressure build up.
B 
Ed Woods

B 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  4 06:26:14 2014
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Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 08:24:29 -0400
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Bench Test Fail
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Mike,
I'll try that.
On Aug 4, 2014 8:01 AM, "Michael" <michael.salter@gmail.com> wrote:

> Mike try running it up without the operating valve, ball, spring and cap
> in place.
> A good volume of oil should spill out of the hole.
> That will prove the pump.
> The next step is to do a pressure test.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> ------------------------------
> From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
> Sent: b8/b4/b2014 6:49 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] OD Bench Test Fail
>
> Finally got the transmission back together and mated to the OD.  Spun them
> up on test jig and got zero oil pressure.   Electrics work fine, but I'm
> not  getting any reading at all on the pressure .gauge.  I'm pretty sure
> the plunger is riding on the cam (I heard it click into place when I
> removed the string).  I'd rebuild the OD some years ago and it's been
> sitting patiently waiting for me to get back to it.
> Any suggestions before I go and dismantle the whole ting again?
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
> Pepperell, MA
> _______________________________________________
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From: Charlie Vaselaar <cvaselaar@earthlink.net>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  4 23:15:41 2014
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Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 22:15:35 -0700
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Anodizeing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Any suggestions on removing anodizing so I can repair and polish the part?
Thanks
Ray Juncal
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  5 04:10:56 2014
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Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2014 06:10:46 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>, Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1407215735.24475.YahooMailNeo@web124506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anodizeing
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Ray,

An anodizing shop can remove the old anodizing in a few minutes.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 08/05/2014 01:15 AM, Ray Juncal wrote:
> Any suggestions on removing anodizing so I can repair and polish the part?
> Thanks
> Ray Juncal
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 04:29:31 -0700
From: Ralph Cap <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] mallory
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone running a Mallory dual point dist on a bj8 need to know the wiring set up on a neg ground car 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  5 06:14:16 2014
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From: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Full-Name: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 12:11:51 GMT
To: healeys@autox.team.net
 bb07ceeb0713fe7ab3d30a7b0aaa1a472f7fda4f8b67024a5fcaee431f2b4e3e2e4ee32e3ee3e35a4fb3ae27fe8efea30a6fbf0a7ad7d703bf9f67432b8ff70a1f4e973bbf3efa9aca4afa73b73e4b6bea6aea2e1e9b178b8e1e8ec733ae27dfdb8eeebe6313
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Catalogs
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Last call before they hit the recycle circular file!! Thanks.Cheers, Doug

 > Doing some spring cleaning (I'll get to the garage Craig) while the
> weekend is a washout from the rain. I have a collection of old
> Moss,
> Healey Surgeon, SC Austin Healey, Triple-C,Victoria British, British
> Car
> Specialists, Apple Hydraulics,British Motoring issues from
> Moss,Rhode
> Island Wiring, British Wire Wheel, CSR (Clarke Spares), and 2007
> Ford
> Racing Performance Parts. All are in excellent condition. Will ship
> to
> the first post for the cost of Media mail, otherwise they are
> recycled!!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>


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____________________________________________________________
The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar (Don't Eat This!)
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____________________________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  5 06:29:30 2014
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From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1407238171.85557.YahooMailNeo@web125503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 08:21:07 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] mallory
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

White/black wire to terminal on side of distributor and negative terminal of
coil.  White wire from ignition switch to positive terminal on coil.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ralph Cap
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 7:30 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] mallory

Anyone running a Mallory dual point dist on a bj8 need to know the wiring
set up on a neg ground car 
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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'Ray Juncal'" <healeyray@yahoo.com>, "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <atFk1o00q0NyJgq01tFlSE>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 05:22:26 -0700
Thread-Index: AQHYEWAYOnWOBlyBpAR2kD52G+VYg5uxLPcg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anodizeing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Oven Cleaner or Muriatic Acid

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  5 10:17:12 2014
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Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 12:10:53 -0400
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] OD Bench Test Fail - Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Following Mike Salter's adivce I pulled the plug and operating valve and
ran it up.  A dry hole.
Pulled stuff apart enogh to get at the check valve alongside the punp and
found the valve cavity was full crud.  I doubt the valve was seating.  I'll
pull the punp next to see if it's scored and if there's more crud.
Is there a way to make sure all the hydralic passages are clear?  Worried
now about what else could be in there.

mike
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <atFk1o00q0NyJgq01tFlSE> <028801cfb0a7$eb06eb80$c114c280$@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 09:33:03 -0700
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>, 'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anodizeing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for all the help guys....I'm off to the store for oven cleaner and gloves.
Ray



On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 5:22 AM, Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net> wrote:
 


Oven Cleaner or Muriatic Acid

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  5 14:35:43 2014
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From: "Herbert Miller" <hgmiller3@qwest.net>
To: "'Ray Juncal'" <healeyray@yahoo.com>, "'Jonas Payne'"
 <jpaynepbr@cox.net>, "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <atFk1o00q0NyJgq01tFlSE> <028801cfb0a7$eb06eb80$c114c280$@cox.net>
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Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 15:28:09 -0500
Thread-Index: AQHYEWAYOnWOBlyBpAR2kD52G+VYgwIMd4iOAdPC/aabkqqvYA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anodizeing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You want a strong caustic solution. Here is how I have done it.
Buy a crystal drain cleaner with as much sodium hydroxide as possible such
as Red Devel or Roebic Crystal Drain Opener (100% sodium hydroxide)
Use a heat proof glass container as the reaction with water generates heat.
Mix the crystals into about 1/2 cup water. Add the crystals slowly until you
have a fairly strong mixture.
Clean trim of grease and oil. Brush the mixture on the part. You will see
that some areas will generate a soft white foam others will not. After a few
minutes rinse  in cold water and repeat until the whole piece generates a
soft white foam. Part is now bare aluminum.
A note on restoring cockpit trim or other aluminum trim. Most trim on old
cars will have numerous nicks and scratches. With nicks and scratches the
metal is still there, but it  is not in the right place. I have a very very
small ball peen hammer that can be used to move the high ridges of a scratch
or nick back into the valley of the scratch. Use very light taps to get it
as good as you can.  This will greatly reduce the amount of material removed
in sanding and polishing. You can reanodize if you like but  I did all the
cockpit trim and the side curtains on my Bugeye 4 years ago and left it
polished aluminum. Still looks great.

Herb Miller
AN5
BT7
BJ8   

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ray
Juncal
Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2014 11:33 AM
To: Jonas Payne; 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anodizeing

Thanks for all the help guys....I'm off to the store for oven cleaner and
gloves.
Ray



On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 5:22 AM, Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net> wrote:
 


Oven Cleaner or Muriatic Acid

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/hgmiller3@qwest.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 10:51:45 2014
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From: "Andy" <sneddon@xsmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 17:51:37 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac+xlrAACp67WbFYTke4EZIWBA91hw==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Leather bonnet strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Many of the Works / Warwick prepared cars had a leather security strap
placed at the front centre of the bonnet.  From the images I have seen most
had the buckle attached to the bonnet and the strap secured on the shroud
under the front badge.  

 

With more specific reference to the cars prepared for Sebring, I am trying
to find out:

 

a.       Was the buckle part attached to the bonnet in front of the air
grille or behind?

b.      I notice from pics that some cars had no bonnet air grille (KNX)
just plain bonnet with an open gap, and some (FAC's) appear to have either a
chrome top strip / cowl or the standard vertical slatted grille, but from
the pictures I have it isn't too clear.

 

Any help in clarifying this would be most welcome.

 

Andy
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 11:26:18 2014
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 10:26:24 -0700
References: <bUs81o01h0NyJgq01Us90o>
To: Andy <sneddon@xsmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Leather bonnet strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey there Andy.

Here's a pic that shows it attached in front of the air scoop. Some clearly
show a small plate screwed down that is actually on top of the chrome trim.

Pic attached for andy, link is here:
ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/center_strap_healeys.jpg

Rick Wilkins
Wilko


On Aug 6, 2014, at 9:51 AM, Andy wrote:

> Many of the Works / Warwick prepared cars had a leather security strap
> placed at the front centre of the bonnet.  From the images I have seen most
> had the buckle attached to the bonnet and the strap secured on the shroud
> under the front badge.
>
>
>
> With more specific reference to the cars prepared for Sebring, I am trying
> to find out:
>
>
>
> a.       Was the buckle part attached to the bonnet in front of the air
> grille or behind?
>
> b.      I notice from pics that some cars had no bonnet air grille (KNX)
> just plain bonnet with an open gap, and some (FAC's) appear to have either
a
> chrome top strip / cowl or the standard vertical slatted grille, but from
> the pictures I have it isn't too clear.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 11:53:23 2014
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References: <5F98B62B-8B9B-4254-AD5D-92F81DF77733@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 10:53:27 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Leather bonnet strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Would like to see more of the red car with the Cyclops light . Interesting
mounting bracket

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
On Aug 6, 2014 10:26 AM, "Wilko2" <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:

> Hey there Andy.
>
> Here's a pic that shows it attached in front of the air scoop. Some clearly
> show a small plate screwed down that is actually on top of the chrome trim.
>
> Pic attached for andy, link is here:
> ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/center_strap_healeys.jpg
>
> Rick Wilkins
> Wilko
>
>
> On Aug 6, 2014, at 9:51 AM, Andy wrote:
>
> > Many of the Works / Warwick prepared cars had a leather security strap
> > placed at the front centre of the bonnet.  From the images I have seen
> most
> > had the buckle attached to the bonnet and the strap secured on the shroud
> > under the front badge.
> >
> >
> >
> > With more specific reference to the cars prepared for Sebring, I am
> trying
> > to find out:
> >
> >
> >
> > a.       Was the buckle part attached to the bonnet in front of the air
> > grille or behind?
> >
> > b.      I notice from pics that some cars had no bonnet air grille (KNX)
> > just plain bonnet with an open gap, and some (FAC's) appear to have
> either
> a
> > chrome top strip / cowl or the standard vertical slatted grille, but from
> > the pictures I have it isn't too clear.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 12:13:40 -0700
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Short beading below lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I posted this earlier, but it didn't seem to go through...so here goes again.

Do the short bits of beading below the headlights (BJ8) get painted body colour, or do they stay grey?

Stephen, BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 13:24:40 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 12:14:29 -0700
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <5F98B62B-8B9B-4254-AD5D-92F81DF77733@cox.net>
 <bVtF1o01J14YBDM01VtSbt>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Leather bonnet strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's that car:

bonhams.com/auctions/16252/lot/355/

On Aug 6, 2014, at 10:53 AM, I Erbs wrote:

> Would like to see more of the red car with the Cyclops light . Interesting
mounting bracket
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 13:27:15 2014
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To: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>, 
 "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 15:27:17 -0400
References: <1407352420.22517.YahooMailNeo@web122305.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Short beading below lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

To the best of my knowledge they were black on 100s and silver/grey on 6 cyl
cars.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
Sent: b8/b6/b2014 3:13 PM
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Short beading below lights

I posted this earlier, but it didn't seem to go through...so here goes again.

Do the short bits of beading below the headlights (BJ8) get painted body
colour, or do they stay grey?

Stephen, BJ8
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 13:28:15 2014
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Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 15:28:19 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
To: Andy <sneddon@xsmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Leather bonnet strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a close-up of 767 KNX:
http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/1146874,114,0,0/photo.aspx


>
>
> With more specific reference to the cars prepared for Sebring, I am trying
> to find out:
>
>
>
> a.       Was the buckle part attached to the bonnet in front of the air
> grille or behind?
>
> b.      I notice from pics that some cars had no bonnet air grille (KNX)
> just plain bonnet with an open gap, and some (FAC's) appear to have either
> a
> chrome top strip / cowl or the standard vertical slatted grille, but from
> the pictures I have it isn't too clear.
>
>
>
> Any help in clarifying this would be most welcome.
>
>
>
> Andy
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 15:13:28 2014
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>, "Healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 21:05:19 +0000
References: <1407352420.22517.YahooMailNeo@web122305.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
 FILETIME=[220637E0:01CFB1BA]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Short beading below lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

They stay grey.



Jean


> Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 12:13:40 -0700
> From: s.hutchings@rogers.com
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Short beading below lights
>
> I posted this earlier, but it didn't seem to go through...so here goes
again.
>
> Do the short bits of beading below the headlights (BJ8) get painted body
colour, or do they stay grey?
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 14:31:03 -0700
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] short beading under lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks everyone for the prompt replies. I'll put that beading in along with the stainless steel, after paint.
Stephen
BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 15:44:34 2014
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Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 21:43:49 +0000 (UTC)
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Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] short beading under lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Suggestion: Instead of just cutting it off at the bottom of the wing/shroud junction, double it back and secure it with the lowest of the bolts holding the two together (inside the wheel well). You'll need an extra 6 inches or so of bead. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



Thanks everyone for the prompt replies. I'll put that beading in along with the stainless steel, after paint. 
Stephen 
BJ8 
_______________________________________________ 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 16:30:22 2014
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Wilko2'" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
References: <5F98B62B-8B9B-4254-AD5D-92F81DF77733@cox.net>
 <bVtF1o01J14YBDM01VtSbt>
 <46844475-ABF9-457F-8DDA-BAB2DA87481E@cox.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2014 08:23:27 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac+xrCdehhDKKydcTCyhfwkm+NSFDgAGJi8A
Content-Language: en-au
Cc: 'Ahealey help' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Leather bonnet strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

According to the photos of that car, the buckle is attached under the badge,
the belt attached in front of the air intake. Very short
John Rowe Qld Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wilko2
Sent: Thursday, 7 August 2014 5:14 AM
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Leather bonnet strap

Here's that car:

bonhams.com/auctions/16252/lot/355/

On Aug 6, 2014, at 10:53 AM, I Erbs wrote:

> Would like to see more of the red car with the Cyclops light . 
> Interesting
mounting bracket
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From: R. Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 19:24:04 -0400
To: Healey List Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Block Drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am in the process of flushing out the cooling system of my BJ8.  It has been
a few years since I did this and when I did it last, I did not open the block
drain.  I'm not sure it has ever been opened but its time has come.  I presume
the unit is brass, but not sure.  My concern is if I put too much pressure on
it with a wrench (I want to take it off rather than try and turn the shuttle
cock) it will break or the threads will strip creating another set of "real"
issues.

Any words of caution, processes to follow or other encouragement??

Thank you, as always, in advance.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
_______________________________________________
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'R. Price Lindsay'" <050.rpl@gmail.com>
References: <28843AB5-4E87-477A-9B39-C29A2585FC48@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 16:40:00 -0700
Thread-Index: AQHD84Og3tBJA3XGKxRLO/hsjIkWTZvbtpZw
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block Drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Remove the entire drain. It is most likely plugged anyway and you will need
to rod it out with a wire to get it to drain. If you try and drain it by
turning the handle it will probably break and when you close it, it will
probably leak until crud plugs it up again.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 17:48:51 2014
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 (envelope-from <rchaskell@earthlink.net>) id 1XFAr6-0002Pt-Mr; Wed, 06
 Aug 2014 19:42:52 -0400
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2014 19:42:52 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.7.0
To: "R. Price Lindsay" <050.rpl@gmail.com>,  Healey List Healey List
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <28843AB5-4E87-477A-9B39-C29A2585FC48@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block Drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Price,

The threaded section in the block is quite thick.  I don't think you 
have to worry about it breaking off.  Probably a Whitworth sized nut.
There should be a fiber washer between the block and the petcock.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 08/06/2014 07:24 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote:
> I am in the process of flushing out the cooling system of my BJ8.  It has been
> a few years since I did this and when I did it last, I did not open the block
> drain.  I'm not sure it has ever been opened but its time has come.  I presume
> the unit is brass, but not sure.  My concern is if I put too much pressure on
> it with a wrench (I want to take it off rather than try and turn the shuttle
> cock) it will break or the threads will strip creating another set of "real"
> issues.
>
> Any words of caution, processes to follow or other encouragement??
>
> Thank you, as always, in advance.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 18:49:48 2014
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Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2014 10:26:08 +1000
From: J Armour <sebring3000@bigpond.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>, Andy <sneddon@xsmail.com>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] Leather bonnet strap
References: <013e01cfb196$b12c8790$138596b0$@com>
 <CAGfzsZcUoiiDJzQbuCSyfo0Rjg+dpLcd-Tj5OZs0httXQaM_fw@mail.gmail.com>
 FILETIME=[44001ED0:01CFB1D6]
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Leather bonnet strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On 7/08/14 5:28 AM, "HealeyRick" <healeyrik@gmail.com> wrote:

>Here's a close-up of 767 KNX:
>http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/1146874,114,0,0/photo.aspx




   If I could be allowed to correction  the Bonham's sales blurb and to be
fair to them they have repeated the error created some years ago in one of
the several Healey books written from a limited source of records.

	The 1963 cars were BJ.7s and yes 3 built   known as FAC cars, 54,56 &
57(spare)

	The one and only 1964 car was also a BJ.7 and identified as KNX.767

	1965 the car was a new BJ.8 chassis with dropped down rear chassis rails.
This car is DAC952C as shown on the UK license papers I have with the
first owner listed as ; Donald Healey Motor Co.  Second owner was Clive
baker who had it painted Healey Blue all over 		with  dark blue race strip
down the centre as seen in period pics of Clive racing it.
	

	The 5 Sebring 3000s are very hard to distinguish from pics available in
period, especially if B&W   But the 1965 car has a unique boot lid which
has a rounded lump in it to accommodate the F.I.A. Required luggage test
box to be fitted with the boot lid closed 		during scrutineering. Same
lump was required in the works Cobras at the time ( 1965)  These cars were
competing in the Manufacturers Championship as GT cars. The other
difference with the 1965 Sebring entry is that the dash is a non-standard
flat alloy panel 		covered in black vinyl

	Geoff Healey inspected my car in Australia in 1980 and verified it as the
1965 Sebring and therefore last big Healey entered by Healeys The engine
dyno chart is shown in Geoff's book. I have other correspondence from
Geoff confirming the cars authenticity.
	The car is original as an old race car as it has never been
crashed,dismantled or restored. The alloy flares were fitted in the 60s at
Arthur Carter's workshop to suit 6 inch Cobra style 72 spoke wheels

	I purchased the car in 1977 when nobody was aware or interested in 6
cylinder lightweight Healey race cars. The car was raced in UK by Major in
the USAF before he took it home to Idaho and retired.
  		
	See Racing Sports Cars and look up Sebring 1965

	Joe, been doing it since 1966 with Healeys
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  6 19:20:40 2014
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <rchaskell@earthlink.net>, <050.rpl@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2014 00:56:30 +0000
References: <28843AB5-4E87-477A-9B39-C29A2585FC48@gmail.com>,
 <53E2BD7C.2080302@earthlink.net>
 FILETIME=[6CFBEC70:01CFB1DA]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block Drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The brass doesn't rust like iron or corrode electrolytically like aluminum
(ium?) so it's not likely to be stuck in its thread. It will probably just
screw out.

Bill Lawrence

> Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 19:42:52 -0400
> From: rchaskell@earthlink.net
> To: 050.rpl@gmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block Drain
>
> Price,
>
> The threaded section in the block is quite thick.  I don't think you
> have to worry about it breaking off.  Probably a Whitworth sized nut.
> There should be a fiber washer between the block and the petcock.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 08/06/2014 07:24 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote:
> > I am in the process of flushing out the cooling system of my BJ8.  It has
been
> > a few years since I did this and when I did it last, I did not open the
block
> > drain.  I'm not sure it has ever been opened but its time has come.  I
presume
> > the unit is brass, but not sure.  My concern is if I put too much pressure
on
> > it with a wrench (I want to take it off rather than try and turn the
shuttle
> > cock) it will break or the threads will strip creating another set of
"real"
> > issues.
> >
> > Any words of caution, processes to follow or other encouragement??
> >
> > Thank you, as always, in advance.
> >
> > Price Lindsay
> > 67 BJ8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  7 02:02:52 2014
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Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2014 17:58:15 +1000
From: J Armour <sebring3000@bigpond.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Sebring 3000s
References: <D009418B.3650%joea6@bigpond.com>
 FILETIME=[5AC96880:01CFB215]
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Sebring 3000s
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Correction to the correction

I listed my 1965 3000 as DAC952C, wrong. This  is the 1965 Sebring Sprite
now in the Healey museum.  Works car were apparently built for the coming
event and then one of the lads sent off down to the licensing /tax office
and all cars were registered in a sequence.

My 3000 is actually DAC953C.  Interestingly the Sprite and 3000 engine
numbers are sequencial also.

These numbers sometimes assist in recognising which works car it is as there
was usually a second big or small Healey in the event.  For 1967 onwards
there was usually only one Healey Motor Company car entered but often a
standard looking MG Midget or Sprite with big motors and 5 speed gearboxes
were entered at Sebring. These were used to promote US sales

Joe
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  7 06:09:20 2014
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Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2014 8:09:18 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: "R. Price Lindsay" <050.rpl@gmail.com>,  Healey List Healey List
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block Drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Not too difficult to break the handle off----if there is any way to clamp the ball at the end of the handle and twist on it, do that.  also soak it I  Kroll or similar for a few days first.


---- "R. Price Lindsay" <050.rpl@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
I am in the process of flushing out the cooling system of my BJ8.  It has been
a few years since I did this and when I did it last, I did not open the block
drain.  I'm not sure it has ever been opened but its time has come.  I presume
the unit is brass, but not sure.  My concern is if I put too much pressure on
it with a wrench (I want to take it off rather than try and turn the shuttle
cock) it will break or the threads will strip creating another set of "real"
issues.

Any words of caution, processes to follow or other encouragement??

Thank you, as always, in advance.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  7 06:25:11 2014
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2014 08:25:17 -0400
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension components paint color
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I went through all of this when I restored my BT7, but just to verify for a
friend who is now doing a restoration, are these pieces painted gloss black or
satin black? I think satin is the correct answer, but validation is nice. I
checked the judging guidelines and unless I missed something the guidelines
just say black.
Thanks.

Lin
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  7 10:24:51 2014
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Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2014 09:24:34 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension components paint color
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Lin,

Would have been gloss black originally, which over time dulled.

Roger Moment uses "Cardinal" brand powder coating on his suspension as do
I, however Roger uses their 80% gloss black, while I prefer their 60% gloss
black.

Curt
Concours Committee


On Thu, Aug 7, 2014 at 5:25 AM, Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com> wrote:

> I went through all of this when I restored my BT7, but just to verify for a
> friend who is now doing a restoration, are these pieces painted gloss
> black or
> satin black? I think satin is the correct answer, but validation is nice. I
> checked the judging guidelines and unless I missed something the guidelines
> just say black.
> Thanks.
>
> Lin
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  7 12:00:18 2014
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2014 13:59:58 -0400
To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension components paint color
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you Curt and Roland! I appreciate the quick response.
Cheers,
Lin

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 7, 2014, at 12:24 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Lin,
>
> Would have been gloss black originally, which over time dulled.
>
> Roger Moment uses "Cardinal" brand powder coating on his suspension as do I,
however Roger uses their 80% gloss black, while I prefer their 60% gloss
black.
>
> Curt
> Concours Committee
>
>
>> On Thu, Aug 7, 2014 at 5:25 AM, Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com> wrote:
>> I went through all of this when I restored my BT7, but just to verify for
a
>> friend who is now doing a restoration, are these pieces painted gloss black
or
>> satin black? I think satin is the correct answer, but validation is nice.
I
>> checked the judging guidelines and unless I missed something the
guidelines
>> just say black.
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Lin
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  7 15:50:24 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Linwood Rose'" <linwoodrose@mac.com>, "'Healey List'"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <61562448-BA57-4B9C-948F-9FA51BDFD0BD@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 07:50:22 +1000
Thread-Index: AQFLks3yB8GE7dxKWd/K7o6n8X1iQpzN6+8w
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension components paint color
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Lin

I have just redone the suspension on the BN3 in satin black, however I will
say that when I first did it during the late 1970s the original colour was
metallic green, but I painted the lot in gloss black.

I read something recently as to how the suspension components were painted
originally. Well they weren't painted but dipped into containers of black
paint that also contained water or some other liquid. The paint being oil
based would float on top of the water and the after dipping the paint would
adhere to the part. I tried that but the result was a little less than I
liked.

Of course we all know that our restorations are to a standard that's way
above what the cars were like when they were new.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Linwood
Rose
Sent: Thursday, 7 August 2014 10:25 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension components paint color

I went through all of this when I restored my BT7, but just to verify for a
friend who is now doing a restoration, are these pieces painted gloss black
or satin black? I think satin is the correct answer, but validation is nice.
I checked the judging guidelines and unless I missed something the
guidelines just say black.
Thanks.

Lin
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  7 19:17:22 2014
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2014 21:14:27 -0400
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 <005701cfb289$978e68f0$c6ab3ad0$@tpg.com.au>
To: Patrick Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension components paint color
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks, Patrick!
Lin


> G'day Lin
> 
> I have just redone the suspension on the BN3 in satin black, however I will
> say that when I first did it during the late 1970s the original colour was
> metallic green, but I painted the lot in gloss black.
> 
> I read something recently as to how the suspension components were painted
> originally. Well they weren't painted but dipped into containers of black
> paint that also contained water or some other liquid. The paint being oil
> based would float on top of the water and the after dipping the paint would
> adhere to the part. I tried that but the result was a little less than I
> liked.
> 
> Of course we all know that our restorations are to a standard that's way
> above what the cars were like when they were new.
> 
> Hoo Roo
> 
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Satin Black
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 This is one of those questions where the answer is actually a bit more
complicated than the question. When we first wrote the standards, our
conclusions were that the suspension parts painted black had probably gotten a
quick coat of gloss black paint -- no one would have bothered to have several
different shades of black -- for rust protection during storage as much as for
any other reason, but that the color would obviously have dulled, perhaps even
by the time the car was shipped, much less sold -- after sitting in a dock
yard for days or weeks.

Given that a modern restoration would be using
materials that aren't going to change in nature -- especially if they're done
with techniques like powder coating, -- whatever you use at the outset is what
the color is going to be, so we recommended use of satin black, and I think
that's what Roger does on the restorations he works on. 

For my own taste, I
don't like the gleam of glossy black paint jumping out at me from underneath a
fender anyhow. It just doesn't look right.

For whatever it's worth, the
Mercedes-Benz concours committee also specifies satin black for suspension
parts.

G.

 

Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz
Club of America

Registrar, Austin-Healey Concours Registry

editor at large,
Austin-Healey Magazine

 

Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 07:50:22 +1000From: "Patrick
& Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>To: "'Linwood Rose'"
<linwoodrose@mac.com>, "'Healey List'"	<healeys@autox.team.net>Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Suspension components paint colorMessage-ID:
<005701cfb289$978e68f0$c6ab3ad0$@tpg.com.au>Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"G'day LinI have just redone the suspension on the BN3 in
satin black, however I willsay that when I first did it during the late 1970s
the original colour wasmetallic green, but I painted the lot in gloss black.I
read something recently as to how the suspension components were
paintedoriginally. Well they weren't painted but dipped into containers of
blackpaint that also contained water or some other liquid. The paint being
oilbased would float on top of the water and the after dipping the paint
wouldadhere to the part. I tried that but the result was a little less than
Iliked.Of course we all know that our restorations are to a standard that's
wayabove what the cars were like when they were new.Hoo RooPatrick QuinnBlue
Mountains, Australia-----
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  8 13:06:49 2014
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2014 15:06:52 -0400
To: "editorgary@aol.com" <editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Satin Black
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks, Gary.
Lin

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 8, 2014, at 2:50 PM, editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> This is one of those questions where the answer is actually a bit more
> complicated than the question. When we first wrote the standards, our
> conclusions were that the suspension parts painted black had probably gotten
a
> quick coat of gloss black paint -- no one would have bothered to have
several
> different shades of black -- for rust protection during storage as much as
for
> any other reason, but that the color would obviously have dulled, perhaps
even
> by the time the car was shipped, much less sold -- after sitting in a dock
> yard for days or weeks.
>
> Given that a modern restoration would be using
> materials that aren't going to change in nature -- especially if they're
done
> with techniques like powder coating, -- whatever you use at the outset is
what
> the color is going to be, so we recommended use of satin black, and I think
> that's what Roger does on the restorations he works on.
>
> For my own taste, I
> don't like the gleam of glossy black paint jumping out at me from underneath
a
> fender anyhow. It just doesn't look right.
>
> For whatever it's worth, the
> Mercedes-Benz concours committee also specifies satin black for suspension
> parts.
>
> G.
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
> Mercedes-Benz
> Club of America
>
> Registrar, Austin-Healey Concours Registry
>
> editor at large,
> Austin-Healey Magazine
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: John and Judy Carter <jc9821@msn.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 15:08:56 -0400
References: <mailman.1.1407520801.22503.healeys@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[33EEEE60:01CFB33C]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 6, Issue 339
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone know of a match for original BJ8 main mufflers?

> From: healeys-request@autox.team.net
> Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 6, Issue 339
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 12:00:01 -0600
>
> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
> 	healeys@autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> 	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 	healeys-request@autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 	healeys-owner@autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: Suspension components paint color (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
>    2. Re: Suspension components paint color (Linwood Rose)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 07:50:22 +1000
> From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
> To: "'Linwood Rose'" <linwoodrose@mac.com>, "'Healey List'"
> 	<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension components paint color
> Message-ID: <005701cfb289$978e68f0$c6ab3ad0$@tpg.com.au>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> G'day Lin
>
> I have just redone the suspension on the BN3 in satin black, however I will
> say that when I first did it during the late 1970s the original colour was
> metallic green, but I painted the lot in gloss black.
>
> I read something recently as to how the suspension components were painted
> originally. Well they weren't painted but dipped into containers of black
> paint that also contained water or some other liquid. The paint being oil
> based would float on top of the water and the after dipping the paint would
> adhere to the part. I tried that but the result was a little less than I
> liked.
>
> Of course we all know that our restorations are to a standard that's way
> above what the cars were like when they were new.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Linwood
> Rose
> Sent: Thursday, 7 August 2014 10:25 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] Suspension components paint color
>
> I went through all of this when I restored my BT7, but just to verify for a
> friend who is now doing a restoration, are these pieces painted gloss black
> or satin black? I think satin is the correct answer, but validation is
nice.
> I checked the judging guidelines and unless I missed something the
> guidelines just say black.
> Thanks.
>
> Lin
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2014 21:14:27 -0400
> From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
> To: Patrick Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
> Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension components paint color
> Message-ID: <EEBC73E3-F545-484B-9570-F39CD0B373CB@mac.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Thanks, Patrick!
> Lin
>
>
> > G'day Lin
> >
> > I have just redone the suspension on the BN3 in satin black, however I
will
> > say that when I first did it during the late 1970s the original colour
was
> > metallic green, but I painted the lot in gloss black.
> >
> > I read something recently as to how the suspension components were
painted
> > originally. Well they weren't painted but dipped into containers of black
> > paint that also contained water or some other liquid. The paint being oil
> > based would float on top of the water and the after dipping the paint
would
> > adhere to the part. I tried that but the result was a little less than I
> > liked.
> >
> > Of course we all know that our restorations are to a standard that's way
> > above what the cars were like when they were new.
> >
> > Hoo Roo
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
> > Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 6, Issue 339
> ***************************************
_______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2014 16:46:43 -0700
From: John Rose <john@jesor.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Bleeder
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Good Afternoon All,

Given Doug Reid's  (MrFinespanner) passing, is there an alternative to his highly regarded 18G Slave Cylinder Bleeder Extension?

Any suggestion would be most appreciated.

John Rose
1966 BJ8
_______________________________________________
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'John Rose'" <john@jesor.com>, "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20140808164643.74563amgnl9panab@webmail.intermedia.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 17:08:37 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Bleeder
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom's Import Toys may still have some made by Doug:

http://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=47&new=1

Denis Welch Motorsport makes one that is different than Doug's:

http://www.bighealey.co.uk/category/catalogues/austin-healey/clutch?page=1

John
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'john'" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>,	"'John Rose'" <john@jesor.com>,
 "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20140808164643.74563amgnl9panab@webmail.intermedia.net>
 <012401cfb366$125748e0$3705daa0$@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2014 20:21:18 -0400
Thread-index: AQNUudJU+ZSvYB38z3mWiHrhYnwxqgIo1vvnmKwU8QA=
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Bleeder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The one that Tom's Import Toys is selling is the same price that Doug
charged me several years ago when I bought mind. Not too often that I bleed
my clutch slave cylinder but what a godsend.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2014 8:09 PM
To: 'John Rose'; 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Bleeder

Tom's Import Toys may still have some made by Doug:

http://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=47&new=1

Denis Welch Motorsport makes one that is different than Doug's:

http://www.bighealey.co.uk/category/catalogues/austin-healey/clutch?page=1

John
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  8 19:40:49 2014
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Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 21:40:52 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: editorgary@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Satin Black
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A couple of good drives in the country and that gloss you saw will be dust colored---unless, of course, you don't drive it:)

tom
---- editorgary@aol.com wrote: 

=============
 This is one of those questions where the answer is actually a bit more
complicated than the question. When we first wrote the standards, our
conclusions were that the suspension parts painted black had probably gotten a
quick coat of gloss black paint -- no one would have bothered to have several
different shades of black -- for rust protection during storage as much as for
any other reason, but that the color would obviously have dulled, perhaps even
by the time the car was shipped, much less sold -- after sitting in a dock
yard for days or weeks.

Given that a modern restoration would be using
materials that aren't going to change in nature -- especially if they're done
with techniques like powder coating, -- whatever you use at the outset is what
the color is going to be, so we recommended use of satin black, and I think
that's what Roger does on the restorations he works on. 

For my own taste, I
don't like the gleam of glossy black paint jumping out at me from underneath a
fender anyhow. It just doesn't look right.

For whatever it's worth, the
Mercedes-Benz concours committee also specifies satin black for suspension
parts.

G.

 

Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz
Club of America

Registrar, Austin-Healey Concours Registry

editor at large,
Austin-Healey Magazine

 

Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 07:50:22 +1000From: "Patrick
& Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>To: "'Linwood Rose'"
<linwoodrose@mac.com>, "'Healey List'"	<healeys@autox.team.net>Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Suspension components paint colorMessage-ID:
<005701cfb289$978e68f0$c6ab3ad0$@tpg.com.au>Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"G'day LinI have just redone the suspension on the BN3 in
satin black, however I willsay that when I first did it during the late 1970s
the original colour wasmetallic green, but I painted the lot in gloss black.I
read something recently as to how the suspension components were
paintedoriginally. Well they weren't painted but dipped into containers of
blackpaint that also contained water or some other liquid. The paint being
oilbased would float on top of the water and the after dipping the paint
wouldadhere to the part. I tried that but the result was a little less than
Iliked.Of course we all know that our restorations are to a standard that's
wayabove what the cars were like when they were new.Hoo RooPatrick QuinnBlue
Mountains, Australia-----
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  8 19:55:25 2014
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From: AHMG@aol.com
Full-name: AHMG
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 21:55:32 -0400 (EDT)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Healeys] Orvis Catalog Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My wife just showed a new ladies Orvis catalog she received in the mail  
which has a Blue BJ8 on one of the first few pages. Does the car  belong to 
one of our fellow listers?  
 
Ken
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  8 20:29:05 2014
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Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2014 19:29:11 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Collectable Classics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This was on the Forum, figured I'd pass it along:

http://video.foxbusiness.com/v/3719483059001/rev-your-portfolio-with-classic-cars/?intcmp=obnetwork#sp=show-clips

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  8 22:26:40 2014
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 <012401cfb366$125748e0$3705daa0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <00c701cfb367$d7599750$860cc5f0$@verizon.net>
From: John <john@jesor.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 21:26:37 -0700
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Bleeder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Those on this list define what "community" means. Thank you for your timely
suggestions.

John Rose

> On Aug 8, 2014, at 5:21 PM, "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> The one that Tom's Import Toys is selling is the same price that Doug
> charged me several years ago when I bought mind. Not too often that I bleed
> my clutch slave cylinder but what a godsend.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john
> Sent: Friday, August 08, 2014 8:09 PM
> To: 'John Rose'; 'Healey List'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Bleeder
>
> Tom's Import Toys may still have some made by Doug:
>
> http://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=47&new=1
>
> Denis Welch Motorsport makes one that is different than Doug's:
>
> http://www.bighealey.co.uk/category/catalogues/austin-healey/clutch?page=1
>
> John
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  9 14:39:20 2014
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Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2014 13:36:01 -0700
From: Bob Brown <blkbt7@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spacers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have Vredestein 185/70R15 tires on a 68 BJ8, there is rubbing on the inner side wall on the left rear wheel. I would like to put a 1/4 inch spacer between the brake drum and splined hub.
Does any one have a suitable supplier and part number. I have found several 7/16 ones but want to use one as thin as possible. 
TIA 
Bob Brown
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  9 15:09:28 2014
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From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2014 14:01:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SU Pump Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I wonder if any the more experienced 3000 owners could give me some help ..

I am preparing for a +ve to -ve ground conversion and have considered the
following issues that need to be addressed before proceeding; 1967 BJ8 that
have recently acquired.

radio (will disconnect)
tacho. (will upgrade with polarity change)
electronic ignition (change Pertronix to -ve ground)
fuel pump ( ??? )

The SU fuel pump is a problem; the previous owner says that he has changed it
but not sure what to.
So my query is if there is a simple way to tell if it is electronic (+ve
ground) with potential damage if polarity is reversed, or is it a contact type
that would be immune to this change. Reluctant to pull it just to check. See
pix. No ID numbers evident.

Any other comments appreciated.

rg

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of SU pump.jpg]
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From: carroll phillips <bjcap@optonline.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Healeys] re satin black
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Im going to chime in 2 cents worth,
On all my restorations I use PPGB  DCCB  and die down the gloss with a
flattening agent. You can control the amount of gloss ( I usually go
somewhere above a semi gloss to replicate the original enamel look). You
can usually find something somewhere that stilll has good paint and find
out how glossy or dull the paint was.The urethane will hold up extremely
well and for the next guy who restores the car, doesnt have to kill
himself getting powder coatings off. I only glass bead cast (rough)
items, all smooth metal gets a light sanding after removing paint (
paint remover )Rusty areas can be dealt with by glass bead, wire wheel
ect. and a little body putty. I use DP epoxy thinned slightly as a good
base then apply the DCC. It all replicates the old style enamel and you
can add runs like originalB  !
Carroll Phillips
Top Down Restorations Inc.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  9 15:31:31 2014
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Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2014 23:31:31 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <AF3B4A31B7FC4D448E6E18C80E0742CC@WINDOWST93OFP9>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Pump Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The pump could be fitted with a diode as well when it has points, so 
look out. If a diode is fitted you can usually see where the pos side 
is, where a band is painted is usually positive. To have a look inside 
remove the tape and take of the cap to see if it is electronic or has 
points. Also check on the internet with a Lucas manual, e.g. John Sims site.

If the radio is on positive ground now it probably has dual polarity and 
can be switched over. Radio's like Blaupunkt, Grundig, ITT-Schaub 
Lorentz, Philips can be easily switched over internally by repositioning 
a few plugs, turning over a special switch just under the frame from the 
outside through a small window, or, if very old, by resoldering a few 
wires. Japanese and many other radio's usually have a plug on the rear 
or side that can be repositioned. Any radio can be converted by a proper 
old fashioned radio technician though.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Roger Grace schreef op 9-8-2014 23:01:
> I wonder if any the more experienced 3000 owners could give me some help ..
>
> I am preparing for a +ve to -ve ground conversion and have considered the
> following issues that need to be addressed before proceeding; 1967 BJ8 that
> have recently acquired.
>
> radio (will disconnect)
> tacho. (will upgrade with polarity change)
> electronic ignition (change Pertronix to -ve ground)
> fuel pump ( ??? )
>
> The SU fuel pump is a problem; the previous owner says that he has changed it
> but not sure what to.
> So my query is if there is a simple way to tell if it is electronic (+ve
> ground) with potential damage if polarity is reversed, or is it a contact type
> that would be immune to this change. Reluctant to pull it just to check. See
> pix. No ID numbers evident.
>
> Any other comments appreciated.
>
> rg
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of SU pump.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4744 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8008 - datum van uitgifte: 08/09/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  9 15:40:32 2014
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Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2014 17:34:31 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>, healeys@autox.team.net
References: <AF3B4A31B7FC4D448E6E18C80E0742CC@WINDOWST93OFP9>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Pump Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Roger,

The list strips images.

The pump part number is normally on a aluminum tag that is attached 
using two of the screws that hold the coil housing to the body of the pump.

You'll need to remove the end cap to have a look inside.

If it's a SU electronic pump, I'm not sure the polarity can be reversed 
in the field.  Is there a circuit board?

If there's a capacitor inside, then you should be okay.  If there's a 
diode, you need to reverse the leads on the diode. If there's a TVS, 
should be okay as is.  If there isn't anything but the points, you 
should be okay too.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 08/09/2014 05:01 PM, Roger Grace wrote:
> I wonder if any the more experienced 3000 owners could give me some help ..
>
> I am preparing for a +ve to -ve ground conversion and have considered the
> following issues that need to be addressed before proceeding; 1967 BJ8 that
> have recently acquired.
>
> radio (will disconnect)
> tacho. (will upgrade with polarity change)
> electronic ignition (change Pertronix to -ve ground)
> fuel pump ( ??? )
>
> The SU fuel pump is a problem; the previous owner says that he has changed it
> but not sure what to.
> So my query is if there is a simple way to tell if it is electronic (+ve
> ground) with potential damage if polarity is reversed, or is it a contact type
> that would be immune to this change. Reluctant to pull it just to check. See
> pix. No ID numbers evident.
>
> Any other comments appreciated.
>
> rg
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of SU pump.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  9 17:41:44 2014
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Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2014 19:40:58 -0400
From: ggilliam@usol.com
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/0.8.1
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on BAT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is a nice Healey on Bring A Trailer..and EBAY ....$35 K starting 
bid....

http://bringatrailer.com/2014/08/08/pat-moss-tribute-1962-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii/

  Happy shopping!

  Gordy
  Longbridge BN4
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  9 18:49:03 2014
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Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2014 17:49:00 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: ggilliam@usol.com
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey on BAT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Saw it at the Portland Abfm last year. A bit rough, but nice

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
On Aug 9, 2014 4:40 PM, <ggilliam@usol.com> wrote:

> Here is a nice Healey on Bring A Trailer..and EBAY ....$35 K starting
> bid....
>
> http://bringatrailer.com/2014/08/08/pat-moss-tribute-1962-
> austin-healey-3000-mk-ii/
>
>  Happy shopping!
>
>  Gordy
>  Longbridge BN4
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 10 01:48:12 2014
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Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2014 17:32:14 +1000
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
 more information
Subject: [Healeys] David Woodhouse
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Sadly I have to report that David Woodhouse passed away peacefully on 
Friday. Dave was the creator of DMD Australia and worked tirelessly 
creating his high performance equipment for the 6 cylinder Austin 
Healey, including the DMD alloy block and the high performance alloy 
cylinder head, plus many other components. Dave was a true gentleman, 
always happy to chat about Healeys and engineering principles in engine 
design. An extremely intelligent man, and a great friend to the many 
that knew him. Once again the Healey movement is a lesser place in his 
passing. His funeral in Berwick Melbourne will be held on Thursday. I 
will certainly miss the many Saturday afternoon discussions over a beer 
or two, as will all of his mates.
Regards
Larry Varley
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References: <53E71FFE.7010704@cosmos.net.au>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2014 18:35:33 +1000
To: "varley@cosmos.net.au" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] David Woodhouse
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sad news Larry.
Dave knew a lot about Healeys, and his pioneering work in casting alloy Healey
blocks, and redesigning the Healey cylinder head (the DMD alloy head) were
groundbreaking.
RIP Dave.
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 10 Aug 2014, at 5:32 pm, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
>
> Sadly I have to report that David Woodhouse passed away peacefully on
Friday. Dave was the creator of DMD Australia and worked tirelessly creating
his high performance equipment for the 6 cylinder Austin Healey, including the
DMD alloy block and the high performance alloy cylinder head, plus many other
components. Dave was a true gentleman, always happy to chat about Healeys and
engineering principles in engine design. An extremely intelligent man, and a
great friend to the many that knew him. Once again the Healey movement is a
lesser place in his passing. His funeral in Berwick Melbourne will be held on
Thursday. I will certainly miss the many Saturday afternoon discussions over a
beer or two, as will all of his mates.
> Regards
> Larry Varley
> _______________________________
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2014 10:45:55 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Boot handle attachment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Struggling to figure out the fasteners used to attach the boot handle.
The "Concours Guidelines" for the 100 states that:
"The boot lid handle was attached to the boot lid by 2 flat washers, 2-cup
washers and 2 slotted round head screws (in that order). Another slotted
round head screw is used to hold the locking handle square shaft to the
boot lock packing plate."
Regarding the fasteners securing the escutcheon to the lid I presume that
the ID of the flat washers was a little over 5/16" to allow the threaded
boss on the handle escutcheon to pass through the washer. Would appreciate
someone confirming that for me.
My recollection on 6 cylinder cars is that there was no flat washer and a
3/16"  spring washer was used between the cup washer and the head of a pan
head Phillips screw. (I can appreciate that the 100s would have used slot
screws).
Does anyone have a known original 100 that they can check for this.
Regarding the fastener used in the end of the square shaft again I'm pretty
sure that on the 6 cylinder cars an external toothed cupped shakeproof
washer was used under the head of an oval head Phillips screw.
Again if someone has an known original 100 I would appreciate information
on what is fitted.

Many thanks,
Michael S
BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <CAB3i7L+WQ5bpL0qrtWdoK2hG9amegA7b7d=x8GeVhSntV7TXag@mail.gmail.com>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2014 11:39:27 -0400
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Boot handle attachment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael--

While I cannot attest to the "known original" condition of my 100's boot
hardware I can tell you that the car was apart only once in the mid-1990's
when it was restored by Bud Weikert of Mountaintop PA who at that time
apparently had a good reputation for doing Healey restorations.  Judging by
the condition of the plating and pitting on all of the boot hardware--both
the handle and the hinges--I think it is all original. In any case I have
owned the car since 1998 and have not done any work on the boot handle.

That said I just looked at the car and the hardware attaching the handle to
the lid is as you state--but the order is:  cup washers, flat washers and
round headed slotted screws in that order.  The screw in the end of the
square shaft is slotted--not Phillips.

Since photos are stripped by this list I will send some to you privately.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Sun, Aug 10, 2014 at 10:45 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Struggling to figure out the fasteners used to attach the boot handle.
> The "Concours Guidelines" for the 100 states that:
> "The boot lid handle was attached to the boot lid by 2 flat washers, 2-cup
> washers and 2 slotted round head screws (in that order). Another slotted
> round head screw is used to hold the locking handle square shaft to the
> boot lock packing plate."
> Regarding the fasteners securing the escutcheon to the lid I presume that
> the ID of the flat washers was a little over 5/16" to allow the threaded
> boss on the handle escutcheon to pass through the washer. Would appreciate
> someone confirming that for me.
> My recollection on 6 cylinder cars is that there was no flat washer and a
> 3/16"  spring washer was used between the cup washer and the head of a pan
> head Phillips screw. (I can appreciate that the 100s would have used slot
> screws).
> Does anyone have a known original 100 that they can check for this.
> Regarding the fastener used in the end of the square shaft again I'm pretty
> sure that on the 6 cylinder cars an external toothed cupped shakeproof
> washer was used under the head of an oval head Phillips screw.
> Again if someone has an known original 100 I would appreciate information
> on what is fitted.
>
> Many thanks,
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 10 12:48:28 2014
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 <CAPTa0B5yNDRji0CxjbmwRjD77so-xj_yBimuJ491Cjf7w=c2=g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2014 11:48:24 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Boot handle attachment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael S,

I will be sending photos of my original boot handle and fasteners.

The screw in the end of the square shaft is a slotted, oval head
countersunk screw and is quite unique.

I believe that Michael O is correct for the two screws that hold the handle
base to the boot lid, the 3/16" flat washers are under the heads of the
slotted round head screws and then the cup washer is below that.  As such,
a standard 3/16" pattern British washer should be the correct one, but I'
not 100% certain off the top of my head.

Cheers,

Curt


On Sun, Aug 10, 2014 at 8:39 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Michael--
>
> While I cannot attest to the "known original" condition of my 100's boot
> hardware I can tell you that the car was apart only once in the mid-1990's
> when it was restored by Bud Weikert of Mountaintop PA who at that time
> apparently had a good reputation for doing Healey restorations.  Judging by
> the condition of the plating and pitting on all of the boot hardware--both
> the handle and the hinges--I think it is all original. In any case I have
> owned the car since 1998 and have not done any work on the boot handle.
>
> That said I just looked at the car and the hardware attaching the handle to
> the lid is as you state--but the order is:  cup washers, flat washers and
> round headed slotted screws in that order.  The screw in the end of the
> square shaft is slotted--not Phillips.
>
> Since photos are stripped by this list I will send some to you privately.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 10, 2014 at 10:45 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Struggling to figure out the fasteners used to attach the boot handle.
> > The "Concours Guidelines" for the 100 states that:
> > "The boot lid handle was attached to the boot lid by 2 flat washers,
> 2-cup
> > washers and 2 slotted round head screws (in that order). Another slotted
> > round head screw is used to hold the locking handle square shaft to the
> > boot lock packing plate."
> > Regarding the fasteners securing the escutcheon to the lid I presume that
> > the ID of the flat washers was a little over 5/16" to allow the threaded
> > boss on the handle escutcheon to pass through the washer. Would
> appreciate
> > someone confirming that for me.
> > My recollection on 6 cylinder cars is that there was no flat washer and a
> > 3/16"  spring washer was used between the cup washer and the head of a
> pan
> > head Phillips screw. (I can appreciate that the 100s would have used slot
> > screws).
> > Does anyone have a known original 100 that they can check for this.
> > Regarding the fastener used in the end of the square shaft again I'm
> pretty
> > sure that on the 6 cylinder cars an external toothed cupped shakeproof
> > washer was used under the head of an oval head Phillips screw.
> > Again if someone has an known original 100 I would appreciate information
> > on what is fitted.
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 10 13:03:48 2014
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Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2014 12:02:44 -0700
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, Michael Salter
 <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Boot handle attachment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, anyone know the what thread size and length of the mounting screws?
Mike
MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5



On Sunday, August 10, 2014 8:39 AM, Michael Oritt
<michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:
 

>
>
>Michael--
>
>While I cannot attest to
the "known original" condition of my 100's boot
>hardware I can tell you that
the car was apart only once in the mid-1990's
>when it was restored by Bud
Weikert of Mountaintop PA who at that time
>apparently had a good reputation
for doing Healey restorations.  Judging by
>the condition of the plating and
pitting on all of the boot hardware--both
>the handle and the hinges--I think
it is all original. In any case I have
>owned the car since 1998 and have not
done any work on the boot handle.
>
>That said I just looked at the car and
the hardware attaching the handle to
>the lid is as you state--but the order
is:  cup washers, flat washers and
>round headed slotted screws in that
order.  The screw in the end of the
>square shaft is slotted--not Phillips.
>
>Since photos are stripped by this list I will send some to you privately.
>
>Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>On Sun, Aug 10, 2014 at 10:45 AM, Michael Salter
<michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>> Struggling to figure out the fasteners
used to attach the boot handle.
>> The "Concours Guidelines" for the 100
states that:
>> "The boot lid handle was attached to the boot lid by 2 flat
washers, 2-cup
>> washers and 2 slotted round head screws (in that order).
Another slotted
>> round head screw is used to hold the locking handle square
shaft to the
>> boot lock packing plate."
>> Regarding the fasteners securing
the escutcheon to the lid I presume that
>> the ID of the flat washers was a
little over 5/16" to allow the threaded
>> boss on the handle escutcheon to
pass through the washer. Would appreciate
>> someone confirming that for me.
>> My recollection on 6 cylinder cars is that there was no flat washer and a
>> 3/16"  spring washer was used between the cup washer and the head of a pan
>> head Phillips screw. (I can appreciate that the 100s would have used slot
>> screws).
>> Does anyone have a known original 100 that they can check for
this.
>> Regarding the fastener used in the end of the square shaft again I'm
pretty
>> sure that on the 6 cylinder cars an external toothed cupped
shakeproof
>> washer was used under the head of an oval head Phillips screw.
>> Again if someone has an known original 100 I would appreciate information
>> on what is fitted.
>>
>> Many thanks,
>> Michael S
>> BN1 #174
>>
_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive:
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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 +r3syR1BUpjSQ==
Subject: Re: [Healeys] David Woodhouse
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I spoke to him once when I had a (turns out) passing interest in his hi-flow intake manifold.  A very gracious man.

Bob


On 8/10/2014 1:35 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
> Sad news Larry.
> Dave knew a lot about Healeys, and his pioneering work in casting alloy Healey
> blocks, and redesigning the Healey cylinder head (the DMD alloy head) were
> groundbreaking.
> RIP Dave.
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On 10 Aug 2014, at 5:32 pm, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
>>
>> Sadly I have to report that David Woodhouse passed away peacefully on
> Friday. Dave was the creator of DMD Australia and worked tirelessly creating
> his high performance equipment for the 6 cylinder Austin Healey, including the
> DMD alloy block and the high performance alloy cylinder head, plus many other
> components. Dave was a true gentleman, always happy to chat about Healeys and
> engineering principles in engine design. An extremely intelligent man, and a
> great friend to the many that knew him. Once again the Healey movement is a
> lesser place in his passing. His funeral in Berwick Melbourne will be held on
> Thursday. I will certainly miss the many Saturday afternoon discussions over a
> beer or two, as will all of his mates.
>> Regards
>> Larry Varley
>> _______________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 11 12:47:21 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 11:46:52 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] wheel bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am replacing my brake rotors next week and want to  have replacement
bearings and seals available if they need more then repacking. The problem
I have is the car has very early disc brakes and disc wheels. I am having a
hard time trying to figure out which are the correct parts front and rear.
Any help with part #s Moss or NAPA or ??? would be great.
Man It is so much fun to be driving my car again......
Cheers
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
bus.b
b FranC'oise Sagan
<https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 11 15:32:00 2014
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 17:31:50 -0400
Thread-index: Ac+1q27Z+Q4ph1LdSsCTmIBmy3e9wA==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Healey For Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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As per my previous email, my BN6 is for sale. You can view it on the "For
Sale" page of my site. I will probably hold pretty firm on the price but I
welcome any discussions which will  lead to a sale.

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

www.healey6.com
_______________________________________________
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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, "'Peter Svilans'"
 <peter.svilans@rogers.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <AD4B9DB76F73492C9F5C42C3052C8203@9535DEE118EC44B>
 <001101cfac5b$946dd0e0$bd4972a0$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 14:34:28 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual-Throat S.U's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We have a pair of these here that have been rebuilt and were used on a MGA 
Twin cam race car. If anyone is interested the owner is not going to be 
selling them.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com


-----Original Message----- 
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 6:05 PM
To: 'Peter Svilans' ; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual-Throat S.U's

G'day

Some years back I interviewed a gentleman by the name of Bill Bressington
who was the proprietor of SU Midel here in Australia
(http://www.sumidel.com) During the course of the interview I asked him
about the DU6 that were once fitted to my car and he said that he could make
me a set at around $2,000 per carburettor. I just laughed as it was way past
my budget. Sadly Bill is no longer with us buy his sons Adam and Grant are
now at the helm of SU Midel.

I have seen DU6 carbs on Coventry Climax FPF engines right up to the 2.5
litre versions that were made here in Australia by Repco and used in the
early years of the Tasman Series ('64 -'69), prior to the 2.5 litre Repco
V8, Ford DFV, BRM engines coming on stream. However the prettiest
application I have seen was on a 1935 Riley Imp.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter
Svilans
Sent: Thursday, 31 July 2014 10:37 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Dual-Throat S.U's

The S.U. dual throat carbs, called DU6, or AUC 844, were only ever 1 3/4",
and there is only one "official" listing for them in the S.U. Applications
List for 1965, which covers many hundreds of cars back to prewar. This is
the Coventry-Climax F1 car with the F.P.F engine in the 1,500cc size
(1958-1961).
Of course the carbs would have had other special applications.

Scroll down four pics:
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/101968/101-on-su-carbs#.U9mKBaPG-So

....and here:
http://www.spridgetmania.com/msgThread/107976/1/1/SPLITTING_TWIN_SU

Peter
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 11 16:59:32 2014
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References: <CACPMnYpO=4aWqAkOuLR4JGN62_5ueSYJffy4Byfg_AFFmVrzXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 18:59:34 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Ira,
I presume that we are talking 3000 here.
The rear wheel bearings are the same for all cars, late BN1 to last BJ8.
They are very robust and seldom need replacement.
The hub seals, front and rear, are also common to 3000s. I would recommend
having replacements on hand.
All front wheel bearings, 3000s up to late ('65 on) BJ8s, are the same.
Again usually pretty long lasting if installed and lubricated correctly.

Michael S
BN1 #174




On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 2:46 PM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

> I am replacing my brake rotors next week and want to  have replacement
> bearings and seals available if they need more then repacking. The problem
> I have is the car has very early disc brakes and disc wheels. I am having a
> hard time trying to figure out which are the correct parts front and rear.
> Any help with part #s Moss or NAPA or ??? would be great.
> Man It is so much fun to be driving my car again......
> Cheers
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> b Money may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
> bus.b
> b  FranC'oise Sagan
> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 11 17:05:15 2014
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References: <CACPMnYpO=4aWqAkOuLR4JGN62_5ueSYJffy4Byfg_AFFmVrzXQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ=BxiHBgsCyKace55bxAvNwVDf+Y1rGJVv6FuEmWUoNg@mail.gmail.com>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 16:04:58 -0700
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 3:59 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi Ira,
> I presume that we are talking 3000 here.
> The rear wheel bearings are the same for all cars, late BN1 to last BJ8.
> They are very robust and seldom need replacement.
> The hub seals, front and rear, are also common to 3000s. I would recommend
> having replacements on hand.
> All front wheel bearings, 3000s up to late ('65 on) BJ8s, are the same.
> Again usually pretty long lasting if installed and lubricated correctly.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 2:46 PM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>  I am replacing my brake rotors next week and want to  have replacement
>> bearings and seals available if they need more then repacking. The problem
>> I have is the car has very early disc brakes and disc wheels. I am having
>> a
>> hard time trying to figure out which are the correct parts front and rear.
>> Any help with part #s Moss or NAPA or ??? would be great.
>> Man It is so much fun to be driving my car again......
>> Cheers
>> Ira Erbs
>> IT Teacher
>> and Consultant
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> b Money may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
>> bus.b
>> b  FranC'oise Sagan
>> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 11 17:13:22 2014
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Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 19:11:00 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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 Thunderbird/24.7.0
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYpO=4aWqAkOuLR4JGN62_5ueSYJffy4Byfg_AFFmVrzXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira,

Front wheel bearings prior to change during BJ8 build:

Timken part numbers:
		Cone	Cup
	Inner: LM67048	LM67010
	Outer: 07196	0787X

Seal:
	SKF: 0S550085
	NAK: SC 2.875 2.062 0.375 (dimensions)
	GACO: MIS22


If you replace bearings, you'll need to check the free play (shims).

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 08/11/2014 02:46 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> I am replacing my brake rotors next week and want to  have replacement
> bearings and seals available if they need more then repacking. The problem
> I have is the car has very early disc brakes and disc wheels. I am having a
> hard time trying to figure out which are the correct parts front and rear.
> Any help with part #s Moss or NAPA or ??? would be great.
> Man It is so much fun to be driving my car again......
> Cheers
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
> bus.b
> b FranC'oise Sagan
> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 11 17:30:37 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 16:30:18 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have NAPA or National Bearing #s for the bearings and seals?

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 4:10 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yup 3000.
> Moss seems to show different #s for early 3000. The grease has not been
> changed in decades, but maybe 4K miles. That's why I want to clean and
> grease them. I need new seals and wanted to have replacements on hand for
> bearings if needed. Thanks Michael.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 3:59 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Ira,
>> I presume that we are talking 3000 here.
>>  The rear wheel bearings are the same for all cars, late BN1 to last
>> BJ8. They are very robust and seldom need replacement.
>> The hub seals, front and rear, are also common to 3000s. I would
>> recommend having replacements on hand.
>> All front wheel bearings, 3000s up to late ('65 on) BJ8s, are the same.
>> Again usually pretty long lasting if installed and lubricated correctly.
>>
>> Michael S
>> BN1 #174
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 2:46 PM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>  I am replacing my brake rotors next week and want to  have replacement
>>> bearings and seals available if they need more then repacking. The
>>> problem
>>> I have is the car has very early disc brakes and disc wheels. I am
>>> having a
>>> hard time trying to figure out which are the correct parts front and
>>> rear.
>>> Any help with part #s Moss or NAPA or ??? would be great.
>>> Man It is so much fun to be driving my car again......
>>> Cheers
>>> Ira Erbs
>>> IT Teacher
>>> and Consultant
>>> Portland, OR
>>>
>>> b Money may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
>>> bus.b
>>> b  FranC'oise Sagan
>>> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>
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Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 17:04:47 -0700
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Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe Timken bearings were used originally.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/bearings/Pages/default.aspx

I brought some recently from a local bearing supplier. The front bearing was
slightly different in that the inner shaft hole was not radiused as the
original bearing was but it does not make a difference due to the way it
fixed on the axel.

John
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 11 21:16:28 2014
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 03:16:30 +0000
 FILETIME=[CFEF8580:01CFB5DB]
Subject: [Healeys] Time in Florida
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My wife is attending a one week training episode in St Petersburg, FL next
week and I am tagging along to make sure she doesn't have too much fun. It
looks like I'll have five weekdays to kill while she is in class. Any ideas
how I should spend my time would be appreciated. Due to my car addiction I
would like to find some car related, and especially Brit or Healey related
attractions.

Thanks for any ideas you might share.

Bill Lawrence
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 11 22:51:45 2014
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Time in Florida
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill
 
I think the Collier Collection is near St. Pete.
 
Ben Cohen
Tucson
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/11/2014 8:24:07 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
ynotink@msn.com writes:

My wife  is attending a one week training episode in St Petersburg, FL next
week and  I am tagging along to make sure she doesn't have too much fun. It
looks  like I'll have five weekdays to kill while she is in class. Any ideas
how I  should spend my time would be appreciated. Due to my car addiction I
would  like to find some car related, and especially Brit or Healey  related
attractions.

Thanks for any ideas you might  share.

Bill  Lawrence
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rct2bnc@aol.com
_______________________________________________
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 2014 05:39:33 +0000 UTC
From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYpO=4aWqAkOuLR4JGN62_5ueSYJffy4Byfg_AFFmVrzXQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ=BxiHBgsCyKace55bxAvNwVDf+Y1rGJVv6FuEmWUoNg@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 22:39:41 -0700
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Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira,

This company will have Timken bearings and races in stock at one of their
U.S. locations.

http://www.applied.com/

John Spaur
San Jose, CA
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 12 01:03:10 2014
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From: "Robert F. Begani" <rfbegani@speakeasy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20a08.7be5b777.411af766@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 03:03:09 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Time in Florida
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The Collier Collection is in Naples, a 2 hour drive from Tampa.  It reopened
in March after many years of being closed  The history of this collection is
very interesting.  Available by reservations only.

http://tinyurl.com/kl3vlph

Thanks for mentioning it. I will have to visit it. 

 Also,  if anyone wants to see a great collection of Muscle Cars, In Punta
Gorda Florida just off I-75 on the way south to Naples is the Muscle Car
Museum.  Great Private Collection of primarily Corvettes and GM cars.

Bob Begani 
BJ8 Punta Gorda Florida

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]  On Behalf Of
RCT2BNC@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 12:52 AM
To: ynotink@msn.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Time in Florida

Bill
 
I think the Collier Collection is near St. Pete.
 
Ben Cohen
Tucson
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/11/2014 8:24:07 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
ynotink@msn.com writes:

My wife  is attending a one week training episode in St Petersburg, FL next
week and  I am tagging along to make sure she doesn't have too much fun. It
looks  like I'll have five weekdays to kill while she is in class. Any ideas
how I  should spend my time would be appreciated. Due to my car addiction I
would  like to find some car related, and especially Brit or Healey  related
attractions.

Thanks for any ideas you might  share.

Bill  Lawrence
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rct2bnc@aol.com
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani@speakeasy.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 13 08:29:38 2014
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Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 10:29:32 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Front Hub Dust Cap Tool Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm slowly assembling a tool kit for #174 and I have a question.
The tools supplement of the guidelines includes the following note.
"Because the earlier dust cap's BSF stud threads were changed to UNF by
December, 1953, this tool only was made with UNF threads, and will not work
on earlier 100s "
Although both the dust caps on #174 were UNF thread and appeared to be
undisturbed I was quite happy to accept this until I found, upon reading
through the handbook for my car Publication Number 996, dated September
1953, on page 53 the following:
"*Front Road Wheel Hubs*: Unscrew the knock-on hub cap  and, using the
extractor provided, withdraw the grease cap from within the hub."
Well September 1953 is a good long time before December 1953.
I have also checked the parts book and found that there is only one number
for the dust cap, 1B4316, and that is applicable to all cars and one number
for the extractor tool, 1B4339, also applicable to all cars.
I do note that there is an Austin Service Journal Reference associated with
the extractor (24 Tools Pg2).
Does anyone out there have a copy of this edition of the Austin Journal
which may shed light on this anomaly?
Many thanks,
Michael S
BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 13 09:31:48 2014
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References: <CAB3i7LK11CT803=_EfUq0fTT+KfigdWTR6-AP+Br4-5UtH9PTw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:31:56 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Hub Dust Cap Tool Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

I may be mistaken but I believe that the early cars did not have the front
hub dust cap tool.

The Clausager book notes that the.... *"Front hub dust cap extractor added
to tool kit" * Chassis number *148935* Dec. '53.

The bottom line is that your car should have BSF threads and not UNF
threads.  Most likely changed early in the cars history, but who really
knows.

Cheers,

Curt


On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 7:29 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I'm slowly assembling a tool kit for #174 and I have a question.
> The tools supplement of the guidelines includes the following note.
> "Because the earlier dust cap's BSF stud threads were changed to UNF by
> December, 1953, this tool only was made with UNF threads, and will not work
> on earlier 100s "
> Although both the dust caps on #174 were UNF thread and appeared to be
> undisturbed I was quite happy to accept this until I found, upon reading
> through the handbook for my car Publication Number 996, dated September
> 1953, on page 53 the following:
> "*Front Road Wheel Hubs*: Unscrew the knock-on hub cap  and, using the
> extractor provided, withdraw the grease cap from within the hub."
> Well September 1953 is a good long time before December 1953.
> I have also checked the parts book and found that there is only one number
> for the dust cap, 1B4316, and that is applicable to all cars and one number
> for the extractor tool, 1B4339, also applicable to all cars.
> I do note that there is an Austin Service Journal Reference associated with
> the extractor (24 Tools Pg2).
> Does anyone out there have a copy of this edition of the Austin Journal
> which may shed light on this anomaly?
> Many thanks,
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 13 13:31:05 2014
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 <CAJKrNeR8PMco0bH-Vqz4y5Y_Z26zUsP5rYOoYWN8r0gc4TDFiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 14:31:08 -0500
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Hub Dust Cap Tool Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

no one will know, if you don't tell them.


On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 10:31 AM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Michael,
>
> I may be mistaken but I believe that the early cars did not have the front
> hub dust cap tool.
>
> The Clausager book notes that the.... *"Front hub dust cap extractor added
> to tool kit" * Chassis number *148935* Dec. '53.
>
> The bottom line is that your car should have BSF threads and not UNF
> threads.  Most likely changed early in the cars history, but who really
> knows.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 7:29 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I'm slowly assembling a tool kit for #174 and I have a question.
> > The tools supplement of the guidelines includes the following note.
> > "Because the earlier dust cap's BSF stud threads were changed to UNF by
> > December, 1953, this tool only was made with UNF threads, and will not
> work
> > on earlier 100s "
> > Although both the dust caps on #174 were UNF thread and appeared to be
> > undisturbed I was quite happy to accept this until I found, upon reading
> > through the handbook for my car Publication Number 996, dated September
> > 1953, on page 53 the following:
> > "*Front Road Wheel Hubs*: Unscrew the knock-on hub cap  and, using the
> > extractor provided, withdraw the grease cap from within the hub."
> > Well September 1953 is a good long time before December 1953.
> > I have also checked the parts book and found that there is only one
> number
> > for the dust cap, 1B4316, and that is applicable to all cars and one
> number
> > for the extractor tool, 1B4339, also applicable to all cars.
> > I do note that there is an Austin Service Journal Reference associated
> with
> > the extractor (24 Tools Pg2).
> > Does anyone out there have a copy of this edition of the Austin Journal
> > which may shed light on this anomaly?
> > Many thanks,
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 13 17:24:12 2014
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <rct2bnc@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 23:24:15 +0000
References: <20a08.7be5b777.411af766@aol.com>
 FILETIME=[B3161F50:01CFB74D]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Time in Florida
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks, I'll look it up.

Bill Lawrence

From: RCT2BNC@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 00:51:41 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Time in Florida
To: ynotink@msn.com; healeys@autox.team.net






Bill

I think the Collier Collection is near St. Pete.

Ben Cohen
Tucson




In a message dated 8/11/2014 8:24:07 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
ynotink@msn.com writes:
My wife
  is attending a one week training episode in St Petersburg, FL next
week and
  I am tagging along to make sure she doesn't have too much fun. It
looks
  like I'll have five weekdays to kill while she is in class. Any ideas
how I
  should spend my time would be appreciated. Due to my car addiction I
would
  like to find some car related, and especially Brit or Healey
  related
attractions.

Thanks for any ideas you might
  share.

Bill
  Lawrence
_______________________________________________
Support
  Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
  http://www.team.net/forums

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rct2bnc@aol.com
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 17:24:20 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Install
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Got a new windshield for the BJ8.  Is this an owner-serviceable part, or best left to pros?  If not, can anyone 
recommend an installer in the SF Bay Area?

Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "'healeylist'"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53EC01B4.2050006@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 17:29:58 -0700
Thread-Index: AQF19XuztPZAVCUomqDE+GUVcx35EJyCwgKA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had Campbell Glass install the windshield for my BT7 although I had to
have him adjust the rubber around the glass because he did not get
completely right the first time. The owner had a Healey at one time.

539 Union Ave, Campbell, CA 95008
Phone: (408) 377-3733

John Spaur
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 13 21:00:39 2014
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Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 17:00:43 -1000
From: Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

How about David Nock in Stockton. Aloha, Kimo


On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 2:24 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Got a new windshield for the BJ8.  Is this an owner-serviceable part, or
> best left to pros?  If not, can anyone recommend an installer in the SF Bay
> Area?
>
> Bob
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
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>
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> options/healeys/kimobriske@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 13 21:58:00 2014
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 20:57:39 -0700
 FILETIME=[E49A8E50:01CFB773]
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 windshield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Before you do anything, be sure the new glass matches the curve of the
original and the chrome surround.
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 14 08:49:55 2014
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Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 07:49:49 -0700
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Hub Dust Cap Tool Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The
following links on Larry Varleybs website may help you Mike.
B 
Austin
Service Journal Cars volume 24, Collated and scanned as PDF, warning this is a
40MB file. 
B http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/austinservicejournal.pdf
Supplied by courtesy Greg Kilmartin 

This link is an edited version of the
Austin Service Journal, containing Healey specific information
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/Austin+Healey+100+Service+Journal+Pages.pdf
With thanks to Don Hardie 


Good Luck
B 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario,
Canada       - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives


On Wednesday, August 13, 2014
10:30:19 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
 


I'm slowly
assembling a tool kit for #174 and I have a question.
The tools supplement of
the guidelines includes the following note.
"Because the earlier dust cap's
BSF stud threads were changed to UNF by
December, 1953, this tool only was
made with UNF threads, and will not work
on earlier 100s "
Although both the
dust caps on #174 were UNF thread and appeared to be
undisturbed I was quite
happy to accept this until I found, upon reading
through the handbook for my
car Publication Number 996, dated September
1953, on page 53 the following:
"*Front Road Wheel Hubs*: Unscrew the knock-on hub capB  and, using the
extractor provided, withdraw the grease cap from within the hub."
Well
September 1953 is a good long time before December 1953.
I have also checked
the parts book and found that there is only one number
for the dust cap,
1B4316, and that is applicable to all cars and one number
for the extractor
tool, 1B4339, also applicable to all cars.
I do note that there is an Austin
Service Journal Reference associated with
the extractor (24 Tools Pg2).
Does
anyone out there have a copy of this edition of the Austin Journal
which may
shed light on this anomaly?
Many thanks,
Michael S
BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 14 12:07:07 2014
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Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 11:07:15 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I should know this but...
To retard the timing, do I rotate distributor towards firewall or radiator?
I'm pinging under load.
1960 MKI 3000

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 14 12:10:51 2014
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To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 14:10:33 -0400
References: <CACPMnYp8VVa6EzfTMujU5NA_7H8G0+9K7eat2nqtXuEZ_OyS4Q@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Ira,
I find it easiest to remember to rotate the distributor in the direction of
rotation (of the rotor) to retard the ignition.
Michael S
BN1 #174


-----Original Message-----
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Sent: b8/b14/b2014 2:07 PM
To: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Timing

I should know this but...
To retard the timing, do I rotate distributor towards firewall or radiator?
I'm pinging under load.
1960 MKI 3000

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 14 12:33:14 2014
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From: Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 20:33:17 +0200
To: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, 
 Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

IRA
Use the adjusting knob instead. If your distributvr is reasonably clean you
should see that it is marked "A"  and "R".

Per

----- Ursprungligt meddelande -----
Fren: Michael
Skickat: 2014-08-14 20:11
Till: I Erbs; Ahealey help
Dmne: Re: [Healeys] Timing

Hi Ira,
I find it easiest to remember to rotate the distributor in the direction of
rotation (of the rotor) to retard the ignition.
Michael S
BN1 #174


-----Original Message-----
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Sent: b8/b14/b2014 2:07 PM
To: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Timing

I should know this but...
To retard the timing, do I rotate distributor towards firewall or radiator?
I'm pinging under load.
1960 MKI 3000

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per@schoerner.se
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From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>
References: <20140814183319.620112580762@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 11:44:55 -0700
Thread-Index: AQIOxg8eTa3Z66bIsR8AtjT2a9jDGZtSUlFw
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: 'healeylist' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira,

The adjusting knob is for micro adjustments.

John
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 14 13:24:37 2014
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Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 13:24:40 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYp8VVa6EzfTMujU5NA_7H8G0+9K7eat2nqtXuEZ_OyS4Q@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira, do you have a timing light or are you going to just static time it?
dave
On 8/14/2014 12:07 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> I should know this but...
> To retard the timing, do I rotate distributor towards firewall or radiator?
> I'm pinging under load.
> 1960 MKI 3000
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 14 13:46:36 2014
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 15:46:23 -0400
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Turning the distributor clockwise=toward the radiator which advances the
timing (I think of this as "advancing" the distributor away from the
plugs)--and visa versa.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 2:07 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

> I should know this but...
> To retard the timing, do I rotate distributor towards firewall or radiator?
> I'm pinging under load.
> 1960 MKI 3000
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
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Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 15:34:49 -0700
From: Ralph Cap <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tach
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone purchased the new conversion tach that nisonger uses for a bj8 that will accept petronix 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 14 17:57:59 2014
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From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net>
To: "Ralph Cap" <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1408055689.9685.YahooMailNeo@web125501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 16:58:03 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tach
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

As a matter if interest I am planning to use this one from the UK when I do 
the +ve to -ve grounding change on my BJ8.
There are also some good detailed videos about doing this update yourself.

https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/smiths-rvi-rvc-conversion-board.html

Anybody else with comments about either tacho conversion appreciated.

rg

-----Original Message----- 
From: Ralph Cap
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 3:34 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Tach

Has anyone purchased the new conversion tach that nisonger uses for a bj8 
that will accept petronix
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace@telus.net 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 14 19:36:33 2014
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To: roggrace@telus.net, rjcapo1@yahoo.com, Healeys@autox.team.net
From: Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
Received: from 74.132.234.112 by webmail-vm053.sysops.aol.com
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Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 21:36:37 -0400 (EDT)
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tach
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The early BJ8's had a different tach and the conversion process is different.
I found that out after trying to change my early tach.
 

Jim Werner
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>
To: Ralph
Cap <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>; Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Aug 14,
2014 8:14 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tach


As a matter if interest I am
planning to use this one from the UK when I do 
the +ve to -ve grounding
change on my BJ8.
There are also some good detailed videos about doing this
update yourself.
https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/smiths-rvi-rvc-conversion-board.html
Anybody else with comments about either tacho conversion appreciated.

rg
-----Original Message----- 
From: Ralph Cap
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014
3:34 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Tach

Has anyone
purchased the new conversion tach that nisonger uses for a bj8 
that will
accept petronix
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace@telus.net
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwhlyadv@aol.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 15 04:46:54 2014
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 bits=128/128); Fri, 15 Aug 2014 03:46:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Bluehealey" <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: "'Roger Grace'" <roggrace@telus.net>, "'Ralph Cap'"
 <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1408055689.9685.YahooMailNeo@web125501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
 <B520A4057553462DAF3F81F0459F57A6@WINDOWST93OFP9>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 11:46:43 +0100
thread-index: AQGUaeXxVPcBazZHC7QbHd3nJJHhSwIwlqw5nDaSkeA=
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tach
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Roger
I have no experience of the device you refer to below and it may be the only
way to go to suit Pertronix ignition - I wouldn't know.  However, I did a
simple polarity switch on my BJ8 a few years ago in order to install an
alternator. The changeover was a really simple 'kitchen table' mod.

The BJ8 was fitted with an RVI tacho (aren't they all?) and detailed
instructions for the polarity switch can be found here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et202a.htm

Enjoy
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (______\__1957-BN4__1959-AN5__/______)
                       (_____BlueHealey.com______)

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger
Grace
Sent: 15 August 2014 00:58
To: Ralph Cap; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tach

As a matter if interest I am planning to use this one from the UK when I do
the +ve to -ve grounding change on my BJ8.
There are also some good detailed videos about doing this update yourself.

https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/smiths-rvi-rvc-conversion-board.htm
l

Anybody else with comments about either tacho conversion appreciated.

rg
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 15 18:19:21 2014
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Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 17:18:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
 tests=NO_REAL_NAME
 breakdown below pts rule name              description ----
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 -------------------------------------------------- 0.00 NO_REAL_NAME  
 From: does not include a real name
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7/BJ8 Parrish hard top for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My friend has a hardtop he just picked up for not much money so will sell reasonably. It is a Parish. Fiberglass looks ok, two or three light scratches. Window has a small patch of crazing. It is painted Healey blue. The shape of this Parish is more attractive than the shape of my Parrish and the window fits the rubber better than mine. They must have improved the design.
call Santana Interiors, Placerville, California, 530 295-3727

Ken Freese
65 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 16 18:30:10 2014
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Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 08:29:36 +0800
From: John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] no list traffic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Test
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 16 18:57:32 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'John Rowe'" <jarowe@westnet.com.au>, "'Healey List'"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53EFF770.3040702@westnet.com.au>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 10:57:12 +1000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] no list traffic
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes John you are testing okay.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
On the other side

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Rowe
Sent: Sunday, 17 August 2014 10:30 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] no list traffic

Test
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 16 23:51:06 2014
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Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 15:40:40 +1000
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
 more information
Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healey restoration update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys, I'm still working away at the Nash Healey Lemans Coupe 
restoration, and posted a link below. It should be ready for paint in 
the next few months, meanwhile I'm finishing off all of the small things 
that take a lot of time. The dashboard right hand drive conversion will 
keep me occupied for a while......
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/nash/nash13.html
BN1 Restored
BT7 Waiting
Early 54 Nash Healey Coupe being restored
Late 54 Nash Healey Coupe waiting restoration
Cheers
Larry Varley
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 00:21:35 2014
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Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 23:22:01 -0700
From: "rrengineer.mike" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Back!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just got my BN2 Back from the body shop. The paint is not fully cured enough for the color sanding yet, but it shore is purty.

http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0402_zpsg4srceyz.jpg.html

http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0404_zpspqox067q.jpg.html


http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/20140814_152911_zpsi2fj9xee.jpg.html

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5



Sent via the Samsung GALAXY SB. 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 05:33:02 2014
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Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 07:33:02 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
To: "rrengineer.mike" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Back!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks beautiful, Mike.

Rick


On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 2:22 AM, rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
wrote:

> Just got my BN2 Back from the body shop. The paint is not fully cured
> enough for the color sanding yet, but it shore is purty.
>
>
> http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0402_zpsg4srceyz.jpg.html
>
>
> http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0404_zpspqox067q.jpg.html
>
>
>
> http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/20140814_152911_zpsi2fj9xee.jpg.html
>
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
>
>
>
> Sent via the Samsung GALAXY SB. 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 08:32:55 2014
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Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 09:33:02 -0500
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Back!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

gorgeous.. now the fun begins.
cheers,


On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 6:33 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com> wrote:

> Looks beautiful, Mike.
>
> Rick
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 2:22 AM, rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Just got my BN2 Back from the body shop. The paint is not fully cured
> > enough for the color sanding yet, but it shore is purty.
> >
> >
> >
> http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0402_zpsg4srceyz.jpg.html
> >
> >
> >
> http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0404_zpspqox067q.jpg.html
> >
> >
> >
> >
> http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/20140814_152911_zpsi2fj9xee.jpg.html
> >
> > Mike MacLean
> > 56 BN2
> > 60 AN5
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent via the Samsung GALAXY SB. 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 09:05:30 2014
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Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 15:05:43 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: "rrengineer.mike" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
References: <wduu3dne9hjs6dte55ydjnah.1408240945577@email.android.com>
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Thread-Topic: BN2 Back!
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Back!
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Gorgeous, Mike. 

Why color sand? Paint looks pretty darn good. Did you fill the holes for the reflector plinths? 

Bob 


Just got my BN2 Back from the body shop. The paint is not fully cured enough for the color sanding yet, but it shore is purty. 

http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0402_zpsg4srceyz.jpg.html 

http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0404_zpspqox067q.jpg.html 


http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/20140814_152911_zpsi2fj9xee.jpg.html 

Mike MacLean 
56 BN2 
60 AN5 
_______________________________________________
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 09:29:54 2014
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From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53F04058.40007@cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 08:28:38 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nash Healey restoration update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Larry,
Keep the updates coming.  I really enjoy seeing your progress and how you 
solve the metal working issues.  I was wondering how the camber adjustment 
came out after welding.  Are the two sides even?
Jerry 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 12:16:04 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Mike MacLean wrote:
> Just got my BN2 Back from the body shop. The paint is not fully cured enough for the color sanding yet, but it shore is purty.
>
> http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0402_zpsg4srceyz.jpg.html

Nice.  Healey Blue is one of my favorite colors for a big Healey.

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 12:32:32 2014
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From: "Niels Bengaard" <bengaard@850r.dk>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1408055689.9685.YahooMailNeo@web125501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
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Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 20:32:31 +0200
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Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Was on holiday in UK this year with my BJ8. Have a couple of questions I
need your help me with.
I normally use super octane fuel but couldnt get it and filled up with
regular. I guess and old car with low compression should be able to use
regular, but big was my surprise when it started knocking under load at low
rpm in third and fourth. Filled up with super again and the problem
disappeared.
Checked the ignition when I returned home, it4s set at 15 deg BTDC @ 650rpm.
I recall having read somewhere thats the right number, so what is wrong.
Have altered it to 13 deg now on the little wheel on the distributor, did
that with the engine running, wow got a shock, high voltage in my arm. How
can that be, dont recall having had problems with that on other cars.

Niels
Denmark
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 13:02:39 2014
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To: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Niels,
Six cylinder Austin-Healeys usually need todays super petrol, better super plus 98 or 100 Octane, not Euro Super.
Your shock may be causeed by using wrong ignition cables with high resistance. Don`t use carbon core cables. Much better are copper core cables for our old cars.

Josef Eckert
Germany.




Was on holiday in UK this year with my BJ8. Have a couple of questions I
need your help me with.
I normally use super octane fuel but couldnt get it and filled up with
regular. I guess and old car with low compression should be able to use
regular, but big was my surprise when it started knocking under load at low
rpm in third and fourth. Filled up with super again and the problem
disappeared.
Checked the ignition when I returned home, it4s set at 15 deg BTDC @ 650rpm.
I recall having read somewhere thats the right number, so what is wrong.
Have altered it to 13 deg now on the little wheel on the distributor, did
that with the engine running, wow got a shock, high voltage in my arm. How
can that be, dont recall having had problems with that on other cars.

Niels
Denmark
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 13:58:03 -0700
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Back!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Rick.  It has been a long time coming home.  Now if I can find the time
to work on.  Oh well, I retire in two and a half years.  I will have plenty of
time then.
Mike



On Sunday, August 17, 2014 4:33 AM, HealeyRick
<healeyrik@gmail.com> wrote:
 

>
>
>Looks beautiful, Mike.  
>
>Rick
>
>
>
>
>On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 2:22 AM, rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
wrote:
>
>Just got my BN2 Back from the body shop. The paint is not fully
cured enough for the color sanding yet, but it shore is purty.
>>
>>http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0402_zpsg4srceyz
.jpg.html
>>
>>http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0404_zpspqox067q
.jpg.html
>>
>>
>>http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/Mobile%20Uploads/201
4-08/20140814_152911_zpsi2fj9xee.jpg.html
>>
>>Mike MacLean
>>56 BN2
>>60 AN5
>>
>>
>>
>>Sent via the Samsung GALAXY SB. 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
>>_______________________________________________
>>Support Team.Net
>>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>Archive:
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>>Healeys@autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 15:07:45 2014
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References: <mailman.5.1408298401.2000.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <53F0F164.3050506@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 14:07:22 -0700
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 6, Issue 349
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Kent,
     Not exactly Healey Blue.  It is a 2000 Volkswagen color called "Ice
Blue Metallic".  It is close though.  Easier to buy a presently available
paint than try color matching.
Mike



On Sunday, August 17, 2014 11:16 AM,
Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net> wrote:
 

>
>
>Mike MacLean wrote:
>>
Just got my BN2 Back from the body shop. The paint is not fully cured enough
for the color sanding yet, but it shore is purty.
>>
>>
http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0402_zpsg4srceyz.j
pg.html
>
>Nice.  Healey Blue is one of my favorite colors for a big Healey.
>
>-- 
>Kent McLean
>'56 100 BN2
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive:
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 15:16:54 2014
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From: "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1408298401.2000.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <53F0F164.3050506@comcast.net>
 <1408309642.57715.YahooMailNeo@web185003.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 07:14:18 +1000
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 6, Issue 349
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks great Mike. A question: looks like it was sprayed with the panels 
together; what about the mating faces of the wings (fenders), shrouds etc?

Regards

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz

-----Original Message----- 
From: Michael MacLean
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2014 7:07 AM
To: Kent McLean ; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 6, Issue 349

Kent,
     Not exactly Healey Blue.  It is a 2000 Volkswagen color called "Ice
Blue Metallic".  It is close though.  Easier to buy a presently available
paint than try color matching.
Mike



On Sunday, August 17, 2014 11:16 AM,
Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net> wrote:


>
>
>Mike MacLean wrote:
>>
Just got my BN2 Back from the body shop. The paint is not fully cured enough
for the color sanding yet, but it shore is purty.
>>
>>
http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/rrengineermike/media/IMG_0402_zpsg4srceyz.j
pg.html
>
>Nice.  Healey Blue is one of my favorite colors for a big Healey.
>
>-- 
>Kent McLean
>'56 100 BN2
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive:
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn@ozemail.com.au
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 15:18:51 2014
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From: <healeyguy@aol.com>
To: =?utf-8?Q?Mike_MacLean?= <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, 
 =?utf-8?Q?AustinHealey_List?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 21:11:47 +0000
References: <wduu3dne9hjs6dte55ydjnah.1408240945577@email.android.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?BN2_Back!?=
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike wrote: bI will have plenty of time then.b

If the first three and a half years of my retirement is any indication of how things usually go I suggest that you work as much as you can on the Healey before you quit work!


Aloha

Perry
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 15:45:58 2014
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From: "Robert F. Begani" <rfbegani@speakeasy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 17:44:19 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+6Y6Kx2lJ1RgfqRX+74vfNwTAB6w==
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Subject: [Healeys] Retirement
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I agree there never is enough time to get everything done.  So keep working
on the Healey so, HOPEFULLY, you will force yourself to finish it before you
start other projects or your partner will designate priorities. I have been
retired 5 years and only just had enough time to do some serious work on my
BJ8.  However, I was able to drive it and fix it along the way.  This winter
it needs serious preventive maintenance and up grading.  I have 2 old
houses, 2 old boats, and one old healey.

 

Bob Begani
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 18:53:06 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 17:52:35 -0700
From: <rd_parker@juno.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Frozen in Place  Engine - 1961 BT7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,

I would greatly appreciate any wisdom from you listers to enable me to
unfreeze a stuck engine.  There is no apparent mechanical problem other
than friction to overcome internally, as far as I can tell.  The engine
has not been rotated for several years, which is my fault.  I have poured
in small amounts of a concoction of marvel mystery oil, WD 40, kerosene
and mineral oil through the open spark plug holes and am currently
waiting about a week to see if I can break the friction free by turning
the crank nut using a socket and big breaker bar.  I think that I can
also apply moderate judicious force against the large gear teeth adjacent
to the starter motor which is currently removed, to help rotate the
crank.  Other that, I have no other current options yet devised.  And
yes, the transmission is in the neutral position.

I have also thought about using compressed air pressure against the
pistons to possibly drive the rod down to aid in rotating the crank, but
so far, it is just a guess. 

Thank you for any and all suggestions,

Bob in Bellflower,  CA.

____________________________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 19:00:05 2014
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Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 18:00:03 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: rd_parker@juno.com
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frozen in Place Engine - 1961 BT7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Have you filled the crankcase with your magic brew?
Put 10 quarts in. Let it sit for a few days, then drain. Add to full line
on sti ck and try to spin again

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
On Aug 17, 2014 5:52 PM, <rd_parker@juno.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I would greatly appreciate any wisdom from you listers to enable me to
> unfreeze a stuck engine.  There is no apparent mechanical problem other
> than friction to overcome internally, as far as I can tell.  The engine
> has not been rotated for several years, which is my fault.  I have poured
> in small amounts of a concoction of marvel mystery oil, WD 40, kerosene
> and mineral oil through the open spark plug holes and am currently
> waiting about a week to see if I can break the friction free by turning
> the crank nut using a socket and big breaker bar.  I think that I can
> also apply moderate judicious force against the large gear teeth adjacent
> to the starter motor which is currently removed, to help rotate the
> crank.  Other that, I have no other current options yet devised.  And
> yes, the transmission is in the neutral position.
>
> I have also thought about using compressed air pressure against the
> pistons to possibly drive the rod down to aid in rotating the crank, but
> so far, it is just a guess.
>
> Thank you for any and all suggestions,
>
> Bob in Bellflower,  CA.
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Want to place your ad here?
> Advertise on United Online
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53f14e6e2eb054e6e30edst03vuc
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 19:21:08 2014
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From: <healeyguy@aol.com>
To: "=?utf-8?Q?rd=5Fparker@juno.com?=" <rd_parker@juno.com>, 
 =?utf-8?Q?AustinHealey_List?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Ibm going to read between the lines. Assuming that the engine was rotated or ran before the several years of sitting and no mechanical issues known, again assuming from past knowledge, the usual culprit is a bit of moisture in bores that had an open valve while stored. The corrosion is usually between the top of piston and the first ring.  It doesnbt take much corrosion to lock up a piston and it doesnbt take much to break it loose. Forget the crank nut. Put the car in gear and rock it back and forth with the plugs out.  If it doesnbt break loose then something else is amiss and probably was when it was parked. 

Aloha

Perry
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 17 21:00:47 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 20:00:25 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Two tone Blue over white 6 cyl Healey over shoulder of Dan Short  from
Phantom Works. at end of episode  Size does Matter

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 18 09:34:55 2014
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From: robert westcott <55healey@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 08:34:57 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Healeys] AH3000 2-seater Tri-carb for sale
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A friend forwarded this to me.

Contact information for a '63 BT7

I have no other details.

Let me know if you have any luck.

Rob



http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bar/4620919934.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 18 10:00:30 2014
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Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 10:00:41 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: robert westcott <55healey@comcast.net>, healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1955D219-757B-4EEF-ADB4-41F2F54BD524@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH3000 2-seater Tri-carb for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Also a '60 BT7 for sale here. $22K  Decent driver. Call for details.
Dave
On 8/18/2014 9:34 AM, robert westcott wrote:
> A friend forwarded this to me.
>
> Contact information for a '63 BT7
>
> I have no other details.
>
> Let me know if you have any luck.
>
> Rob
>
>
>
> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bar/4620919934.html
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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>
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 18 10:11:13 2014
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References: <1955D219-757B-4EEF-ADB4-41F2F54BD524@comcast.net> 
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 09:08:24 -0700
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
To: robert westcott <55healey@comcast.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH3000 2-seater Tri-carb for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Strange picture on the California Classic Car Collection shown on the craigs
list  in the referenced email. Shows a tri-carb engine in what appears to be a
two seater but with BJ7/BJ8 doors with vent windows and listed as a BT7.  Two
seaters are BN7's.  Could it be more confusing


On Monday, August 18, 2014
11:34 AM, robert westcott <55healey@comcast.net> wrote:
 


A friend forwarded
this to me.

Contact information for a '63 BT7

I have no other details.

Let
me know if you have any luck.

Rob
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bar/4620919934.html
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 18 11:06:08 2014
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From: "Niels Bengaard" <bengaard@850r.dk>
To: <josef-eckert@t-online.de>, "'Healeys,  Forum'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1XJ5j7-1ZuEd60@fwd04.aul.t-online.de>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 19:06:16 +0200
Thread-Index: Ac+6TeaIEKWe/2RpQECBdqVveWibHwAuG/TA
Content-Language: da
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Josef

I have the copper wires. I use 99 octane in Denmark, not sure what regular
is in England, perhaps 95.
I met an Englishman, Tim Ward, with a golden Austin Healey BJ8, he was
running regular he said, with no problems.

Niels

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Pe vegne af
josef-eckert@t-online.de
Sendt: 17. august 2014 21:03
Til: Healeys, Forum
Emne: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking

Hi Niels,
Six cylinder Austin-Healeys usually need todays super petrol, better super
plus 98 or 100 Octane, not Euro Super.
Your shock may be causeed by using wrong ignition cables with high
resistance. Don`t use carbon core cables. Much better are copper core cables
for our old cars.

Josef Eckert
Germany.




Was on holiday in UK this year with my BJ8. Have a couple of questions I
need your help me with.
I normally use super octane fuel but couldnt get it and filled up with
regular. I guess and old car with low compression should be able to use
regular, but big was my surprise when it started knocking under load at low
rpm in third and fourth. Filled up with super again and the problem
disappeared.
Checked the ignition when I returned home, it4s set at 15 deg BTDC @ 650rpm.
I recall having read somewhere thats the right number, so what is wrong.
Have altered it to 13 deg now on the little wheel on the distributor, did
that with the engine running, wow got a shock, high voltage in my arm. How
can that be, dont recall having had problems with that on other cars.

Niels
Denmark
$12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bengaard@850r.dk
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 18 11:20:58 2014
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References: <1955D219-757B-4EEF-ADB4-41F2F54BD524@comcast.net>
 <53F22329.10907@porterscustom.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 18:21:14 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH3000 2-seater Tri-carb for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Described as a BT7 2 seater. Buyer beware.

Derek


On Mon, Aug 18, 2014 at 5:00 PM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
wrote:

> Also a '60 BT7 for sale here. $22K  Decent driver. Call for details.
> Dave
>
> On 8/18/2014 9:34 AM, robert westcott wrote:
>
>> A friend forwarded this to me.
>>
>> Contact information for a '63 BT7
>>
>> I have no other details.
>>
>> Let me know if you have any luck.
>>
>> Rob
>>
>>
>>
>> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bar/4620919934.html
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
> --
> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107
> 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 18 14:15:01 2014
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Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 13:15:22 -0700
From: "rrengineer.mike" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: healeyguy@aol.com, AustinHealey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Back!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I will if I can Perry. B I work for the railroad on call seven days a week. B  The few days I get off, because of federal regulations, I am catching up on all my chores and sleep. B There has to be some free time to replace all this time I am spending at work.
Mike


Sent via the Samsung GALAXY SB. 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: healeyguy@aol.com 
Date:08/17/2014  14:11  (GMT-08:00) 
To: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, AustinHealey List <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Back! 

Mike wrote: bI will have plenty of time then.b

If the first three and a half years of my retirement is any indication of how things usually go I suggest that you work as much as you can on the Healey before you quit work!
Aloha
Perry
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 18 18:26:23 2014
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Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 17:26:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>,  Jensen Cars
 <jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
 tests=NO_REAL_NAME
 breakdown below pts rule name              description ----
 ----------------------
 -------------------------------------------------- 0.00 NO_REAL_NAME  
 From: does not include a real name
Subject: [Healeys] JH period racing pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have just come across 12 pictures of Jensen Healeys in the pits in the 70's. The pictures were taken by an acquaintance. I recognize Laguna Seca at least.
 Both the Huffaker cars and Lind Brothers cars are there. Tell me if you want them electronically.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
74 Interceptor
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Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 21:32:51 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor adjustment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to those who suggested the a/r wheel on the distributor. I clicked
it back a bit and the pinging stopped. Now to add aviation fuel and then
fill the tank with high octane unleaded. The beast should love the leaded
boost.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
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Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 21:52:24 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>, rd_parker@juno.com
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Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frozen in Place Engine - 1961 BT7
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

IMHO, a good penetrant--I like Kroil--would work better than the witch's brew you've put in. WD40 is a water 
dispersant--hence the 'WD'--Marvel Mystery Oil is a top end lubricant, and kerosene and mineral spirits are solvents.  
None of these are particularly good at dissolving rust and freeing stuck bolts, nuts or pistons.

Bob


On 8/17/2014 6:00 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> Have you filled the crankcase with your magic brew?
> Put 10 quarts in. Let it sit for a few days, then drain. Add to full line
> on sti ck and try to spin again
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
> On Aug 17, 2014 5:52 PM, <rd_parker@juno.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> I would greatly appreciate any wisdom from you listers to enable me to
>> unfreeze a stuck engine.  There is no apparent mechanical problem other
>> than friction to overcome internally, as far as I can tell.  The engine
>> has not been rotated for several years, which is my fault.  I have poured
>> in small amounts of a concoction of marvel mystery oil, WD 40, kerosene
>> and mineral oil through the open spark plug holes and am currently
>> waiting about a week to see if I can break the friction free by turning
>> the crank nut using a socket and big breaker bar.  I think that I can
>> also apply moderate judicious force against the large gear teeth adjacent
>> to the starter motor which is currently removed, to help rotate the
>> crank.  Other that, I have no other current options yet devised.  And
>> yes, the transmission is in the neutral position.
>>
>> I have also thought about using compressed air pressure against the
>> pistons to possibly drive the rod down to aid in rotating the crank, but
>> so far, it is just a guess.
>>
>> Thank you for any and all suggestions,
>>
>> Bob in Bellflower,  CA.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 02:19:51 2014
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From: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
To: "Niels Bengaard" <bengaard@850r.dk>
Date: 19 Aug 2014 10:19:56 +0200
Cc: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Niels,

knocking is always a matter of multiple things. Octane, compression, ignition timing and load of engine (and maybe some more). So, if Tim Ward told you he's running his BJ8 on regular with no problems it is most likely that he had his ignition timing adjusted accordingly (i. e. retarded a bit).
An ignition timing of 15 deg BTDC @ idle is not wrong, but more important is the ignition timing while revving up the engine. If the springs in the bottom of your distributor have weakened (likely after having done their duty for years) and the ignition timing is set on idle you'll get most likely knocking in higher revs (dangerous, because it's likely not to be heard and it causes serious damage to your engine).
Possible solutions:
a) Have the springs replaced with new ones and the distributor "recurved" (a good source is Jeff Schlemmer @ http://advanceddistributors.com/)
b) Install an electronic ignition system like the 123ignition (http://www.brits-n-pieces.com/product-detail/123ignition-distributor-jaguar-austin-healey-aston-martin-triumph.aspx)
If you decide in favor of b), use carbon core cables, which are a much better choice with electronic ignition, even for our old cars.

Eric Frenken
Germany


Hi Josef

I have the copper wires. I use 99 octane in Denmark, not sure what regular
is in England, perhaps 95.
I met an Englishman, Tim Ward, with a golden Austin Healey BJ8, he was
running regular he said, with no problems.

Niels

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Pe vegne af
josef-eckert@t-online.de
Sendt: 17. august 2014 21:03
Til: Healeys, Forum
Emne: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking

Hi Niels,
Six cylinder Austin-Healeys usually need todays super petrol, better super
plus 98 or 100 Octane, not Euro Super.
Your shock may be causeed by using wrong ignition cables with high
resistance. Don`t use carbon core cables. Much better are copper core cables
for our old cars.

Josef Eckert
Germany.




Was on holiday in UK this year with my BJ8. Have a couple of questions I
need your help me with.
I normally use super octane fuel but couldn&#x0012;t get it and filled up with
regular. I guess and old car with low compression should be able to use
regular, but big was my surprise when it started knocking under load at low
rpm in third and fourth. Filled up with super again and the problem
disappeared.
Checked the ignition when I returned home, it4s set at 15 deg BTDC @ 650rpm.
I recall having read somewhere that&#x0012;s the right number, so what is wrong.
Have altered it to 13 deg now on the little wheel on the distributor, did
that with the engine running, wow got a shock, high voltage in my arm. How
can that be, don&#x0012;t recall having had problems with that on other cars.

Niels
Denmark
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 09:19:44 2014
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 15:19:44 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions
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Can you believe this? Gooding and Companyo;?
http://www.goodingco.com/vehicle/1962-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-bn7-tri-carb/#
tab1
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 09:24:25 2014
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Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 11:23:01 -0400
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Starters
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Listers,

It appears that my starter is slowly dying.  It is operating slower and
slower with a fully charged battery.  Nothing seems to effect it, even
after a long drive, with a hot/warm engine the starter acts the same,
slower and slower.

Does it make sense to switch to the gear reduction starter or have this one
rebuilt, if that will improve performance.

What has been the experience of those who have made the switch?  What
actually is the benefit of the switch?  What sources are there for the
starter?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Fred
63 BJ7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 09:29:29 2014
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 11:29:45 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions
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Yes, I watched it.

Anyone want to buy one?  :-)

Randy
'62 BN7 tri-carb w/factory hardtop


On Aug 19, 2014, at 11:19 AM, Steven Kingsbury wrote:

> Can you believe this? Gooding and Companyo;?
>
http://www.goodingco.com/vehicle/1962-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-bn7-tri-carb/#
> tab1
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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@gmail.com>, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPAC+V5xdbR9cbRUt+toXHN7-6M8BEu7KA8vCD6KY8rxJRcFAQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 08:34:25 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Check the battery cut off switch first. When cranking the motor have someone 
touch the terminals on the switch and see if the are getting warm. If so 
there is a bad connection.  Also do this at the starter solenoid.

Also you can turn the headlights on and leave them on for about 5 minutes. 
Then go around and feel all the battery cable connections to see if any are 
warm. Battery pos and neg, battery switch, cable to frame, ground cable, 
starter solenoid. IF any are warm clean the connections first.

If all are good then you probably have a starter the is failing. I would 
recommend the gear reduction starters and remove the original starter 
solenoid.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: Fred Wescoe
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 8:23 AM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Starters

Listers,

It appears that my starter is slowly dying.  It is operating slower and
slower with a fully charged battery.  Nothing seems to effect it, even
after a long drive, with a hot/warm engine the starter acts the same,
slower and slower.

Does it make sense to switch to the gear reduction starter or have this one
rebuilt, if that will improve performance.

What has been the experience of those who have made the switch?  What
actually is the benefit of the switch?  What sources are there for the
starter?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Fred
63 BJ7
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 09:34:48 2014
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Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 15:35:07 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V5xdbR9cbRUt+toXHN7-6M8BEu7KA8vCD6KY8rxJRcFAQ@mail.gmail.com>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Starters
Thread-Index: JyaB2dq9G2ZgvP4VbgkVPj1f0c56eQ==
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds more like a weak battery to me. A 'fully charged' weak/old battery will give those symptoms; usually, starters go intermittent or fail outright. Have you load tested the battery? How old is it? 

It appears you really just want to get a GR starter. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



Listers, 

It appears that my starter is slowly dying. It is operating slower and 
slower with a fully charged battery. Nothing seems to effect it, even 
after a long drive, with a hot/warm engine the starter acts the same, 
slower and slower. 

Does it make sense to switch to the gear reduction starter or have this one 
rebuilt, if that will improve performance. 

What has been the experience of those who have made the switch? What 
actually is the benefit of the switch? What sources are there for the 
starter? 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks in advance, 

Fred 
63 BJ7 
_______________________________________________ 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 10:09:43 2014
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Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 18:09:25 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAPAC+V5xdbR9cbRUt+toXHN7-6M8BEu7KA8vCD6KY8rxJRcFAQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Check the battery terminals, earth strap first. Than check the contacts 
of the starter relay. After that check/renew the brushes and skim the 
commuter or have the starter rebuilt.
Also apply a drop of oil regularly on the bearings (who does?).
Gear reduction starters sounds like a good idea initially but I hear a 
lot of stories about mediocre durability. Anyway the old starters did a 
good job for 45+ years so why change.
Kees Oudesluijs


Fred Wescoe schreef op 19-8-2014 17:23:
> Listers,
>
> It appears that my starter is slowly dying.  It is operating slower and
> slower with a fully charged battery.  Nothing seems to effect it, even
> after a long drive, with a hot/warm engine the starter acts the same,
> slower and slower.
>
> Does it make sense to switch to the gear reduction starter or have this one
> rebuilt, if that will improve performance.
>
> What has been the experience of those who have made the switch?  What
> actually is the benefit of the switch?  What sources are there for the
> starter?
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8064 - datum van uitgifte: 08/19/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 10:14:50 2014
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From: 'bluehealey' <bluehealey@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 17:15:02 +0100
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Damn that Lucas rubbish! It only gave 50 years of service. I guess the answer
is to buy an oriental alternative that sounds like a sewing machine and has no
history of survival rates.
Well, actually the answer is to make sure you have no points of high
resistance in the path from the battery, through the motor to earth (ground).
Make sure the battery is good and finally if all else fails rebuild the Lucas
starter.
JM2C's

AlanB - iPhone message.

> On 19 Aug 2014, at 16:35, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Sounds more like a weak battery to me. A 'fully charged' weak/old battery
will give those symptoms; usually, starters go intermittent or fail outright.
Have you load tested the battery? How old is it?
>
> It appears you really just want to get a GR starter.
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> It appears that my starter is slowly dying. It is operating slower and
> slower with a fully charged battery. Nothing seems to effect it, even
> after a long drive, with a hot/warm engine the starter acts the same,
> slower and slower.
>
> Does it make sense to switch to the gear reduction starter or have this one
> rebuilt, if that will improve performance.
>
> What has been the experience of those who have made the switch? What
> actually is the benefit of the switch? What sources are there for the
> starter?
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 10:30:47 2014
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To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>,  "Healeys@autox.team.net"
 <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 12:30:26 -0400
References: <CAPAC+V5xdbR9cbRUt+toXHN7-6M8BEu7KA8vCD6KY8rxJRcFAQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Fred,
You have received lots of good advice but perhaps I can add one more
suggestion.
Clip one lead of a digital volt meter onto the terminal stud of the starter
and the other to the bolt where the ground strap attaches to the frame.
Operate the starter and check that you get at least 9 VDC as the engine
cranks.
More than 9 and the starter is slow means the starter is bad or the engine is
tight.
Less than 9 you have a battery, master switch, solenoid or cabling problem.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
Sent: b8/b19/b2014 11:24 AM
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Starters

Listers,

It appears that my starter is slowly dying.  It is operating slower and
slower with a fully charged battery.  Nothing seems to effect it, even
after a long drive, with a hot/warm engine the starter acts the same,
slower and slower.

Does it make sense to switch to the gear reduction starter or have this one
rebuilt, if that will improve performance.

What has been the experience of those who have made the switch?  What
actually is the benefit of the switch?  What sources are there for the
starter?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Fred
63 BJ7
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 11:29:39 2014
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References: <e8cf0c98-6465-4bc1-b0d1-49bebfb31190@me.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 10:29:51 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had a chance to buy one once for $750.00 with factory hardtop. It
ran....I could not raise the money.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
On Aug 19, 2014 8:19 AM, "Steven Kingsbury" <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
wrote:

> Can you believe this? Gooding and Companyo;?
>
> http://www.goodingco.com/vehicle/1962-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-bn7-tri-carb/#
> tab1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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 <A1F0942C-CCA8-4ADF-9665-6F73C0FB969F@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 10:31:40 -0700
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
To: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>, Steven Kingsbury
 <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd sell mine as a driver for half that price.  Anyone interested?

Ron
Mitchell
62BN7 TriCarb.


On Tuesday, August 19, 2014 11:30 AM, Randy Hicks
<Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:
 


Yes, I watched it.

Anyone want to buy one? 
:-)

Randy
'62 BN7 tri-carb w/factory hardtop


On Aug 19, 2014, at 11:19 AM,
Steven Kingsbury wrote:

> Can you believe this? Gooding and Companyo;?
>
http://www.goodingco.com/vehicle/1962-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-bn7-tri-carb/#
> tab1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
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Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 14:15:25 -0700
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>, Steven Kingsbury
 <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a friend of mine that built this car.  He seems to find all the
significant cars out there.  He has restored four documented 100M cars to
date.  He really knows the auction market and what will sell.  This car is not
the original color, but look what price it brought.  I don't feel so bad about
painting mine in a Volkswagen color now!  

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5



On
Tuesday, August 19, 2014 10:30 AM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:
 

>
>
>I
had a chance to buy one once for $750.00 with factory hardtop. It
>ran....I
could not raise the money.
>
>Ira Erbs
>Portland,OR
>IT Educator and
Consultant
>sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to
send
>On Aug 19, 2014 8:19 AM, "Steven Kingsbury"
<airtightproductions@icloud.com>
>wrote:
>
>> Can you believe this? Gooding
and Companyo;?
>>
>>
http://www.goodingco.com/vehicle/1962-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-bn7-tri-carb/#
>> tab1
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive:
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 16:13:17 2014
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From: "Paul Blake" <brumby1009@gmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 08:13:25 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac+7+sw3RrMNhXN+TuGgO8BeygBVbQ==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Starters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Fred

 

I would suspect a failing battery might be the problem. Try a different
battery before you spend any money.   These cars have been starting well on
the Lucas starters for 60 years without problem.  If you suspect the starter
motor find an old school auto electrician and ask them to go over it for
you.  The issues that occur with these units are usually easy to fix.  The
old starter will then last another 60years.

 

Regards

Paul Blake
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 16:57:59 2014
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Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 18:58:10 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com>,  Randy Hicks
 <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

they are going crazy!  A 66 E-Type OTS just sold at auction for very close to $300K-------CRAZY.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 18:01:16 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <A1F0942C-CCA8-4ADF-9665-6F73C0FB969F@gmail.com>
 <20140819185810.MYUET.49066.root@pamxwww09-z01>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 10:01:19 +1000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

I keep a close eye on the auction lists and while I agree that US$200K plus
is a lot to pay for BN7 Mk2 especially when it's a long way from original.

Personally I wouldn't buy any Austin-Healey that's painted in a metallic
grey over red, but then again I don't frequent such auctions as a buyer.

However I have attended such auctions and have found the atmosphere at such
events to be charged with excitement and expectation. People go there to see
the Ferraris bring the many millions that they are currently bringing. Some
are genuine enthusiasts while many are investors who know that $$ spent
today will be worth $$$$ tomorrow. Such cars are restored in attractive
colours that appeal to the investor, not the knowledgeable enthusiast.

The excitement at such auctions is palpable and $200K to an investor, who
has just spent some millions of an exotica is really small change. However
that person knows that properly maintained that same AH when offered at the
same form of auction a year or two down the track will be worth $250K which
is a return of 25% return over two years. Not a bad investment if you just
look at the figures, plus while I don't know what it's like where you are,
it's tax free in this country.

That car would have not been bought by an Austin-Healey enthusiast, but an
investor. Later it will be sold and depending on where the greatest return
at the time the $$$$ may go into wines, paintings or even Scotch whisky.

We have to face the fact that Healeys and Austin-Healeys are very much in
the food chain of international investment objects.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, 20 August 2014 8:58 AM
To: Steven Kingsbury; Randy Hicks
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions

they are going crazy!  A 66 E-Type OTS just sold at auction for very close
to $300K-------CRAZY.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 19 18:43:15 2014
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From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net>
To: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>, "Niels Bengaard"
  <bengaard@850r.dk>
References: <20140819081956.DC9336BC824@dd16422.kasserver.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 17:43:30 -0700
Cc: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just wondering if anyone has any experience/comments on the latest 123 tune 
electronic ignition where the curve points can be programmed via a pc and a 
usb port ... ??

-----Original Message----- 
From: lists
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 1:19 AM
To: Niels Bengaard
Cc: Healeys, Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking

Hi Niels,

knocking is always a matter of multiple things. Octane, compression, 
ignition timing and load of engine (and maybe some more). So, if Tim Ward 
told you he's running his BJ8 on regular with no problems it is most likely 
that he had his ignition timing adjusted accordingly (i. e. retarded a bit).
An ignition timing of 15 deg BTDC @ idle is not wrong, but more important is 
the ignition timing while revving up the engine. If the springs in the 
bottom of your distributor have weakened (likely after having done their 
duty for years) and the ignition timing is set on idle you'll get most 
likely knocking in higher revs (dangerous, because it's likely not to be 
heard and it causes serious damage to your engine).
Possible solutions:
a) Have the springs replaced with new ones and the distributor "recurved" (a 
good source is Jeff Schlemmer @ http://advanceddistributors.com/)
b) Install an electronic ignition system like the 123ignition 
(http://www.brits-n-pieces.com/product-detail/123ignition-distributor-jaguar-austin-healey-aston-martin-triumph.aspx)
If you decide in favor of b), use carbon core cables, which are a much 
better choice with electronic ignition, even for our old cars.

Eric Frenken
Germany


Hi Josef

I have the copper wires. I use 99 octane in Denmark, not sure what regular
is in England, perhaps 95.
I met an Englishman, Tim Ward, with a golden Austin Healey BJ8, he was
running regular he said, with no problems.

Niels

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Pe vegne af
josef-eckert@t-online.de
Sendt: 17. august 2014 21:03
Til: Healeys, Forum
Emne: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking

Hi Niels,
Six cylinder Austin-Healeys usually need todays super petrol, better super
plus 98 or 100 Octane, not Euro Super.
Your shock may be causeed by using wrong ignition cables with high
resistance. Don`t use carbon core cables. Much better are copper core cables
for our old cars.

Josef Eckert
Germany.




Was on holiday in UK this year with my BJ8. Have a couple of questions I
need your help me with.
I normally use super octane fuel but couldn&#x0012;t get it and filled up 
with
regular. I guess and old car with low compression should be able to use
regular, but big was my surprise when it started knocking under load at low
rpm in third and fourth. Filled up with super again and the problem
disappeared.
Checked the ignition when I returned home, it4s set at 15 deg BTDC @ 650rpm.
I recall having read somewhere that&#x0012;s the right number, so what is 
wrong.
Have altered it to 13 deg now on the little wheel on the distributor, did
that with the engine running, wow got a shock, high voltage in my arm. How
can that be, don&#x0012;t recall having had problems with that on other 
cars.

Niels
Denmark
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 20 01:22:29 2014
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 <20140819185810.MYUET.49066.root@pamxwww09-z01>
 <008b01cfbc09$dfb76760$9f263620$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 08:22:27 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

In 1989 V12 E-Types were selling for over B#100,000.

Pitifully low interest rates have led investors to seek other options. This
will reverse when interest rates rise over the next 5 years. I think
Healeys of this type are exactly the sort of car that could lose somebody a
lot of money.


Derek


On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 1:01 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
> I keep a close eye on the auction lists and while I agree that US$200K plus
> is a lot to pay for BN7 Mk2 especially when it's a long way from original.
>
> Personally I wouldn't buy any Austin-Healey that's painted in a metallic
> grey over red, but then again I don't frequent such auctions as a buyer.
>
> However I have attended such auctions and have found the atmosphere at such
> events to be charged with excitement and expectation. People go there to
> see
> the Ferraris bring the many millions that they are currently bringing. Some
> are genuine enthusiasts while many are investors who know that $$ spent
> today will be worth $$$$ tomorrow. Such cars are restored in attractive
> colours that appeal to the investor, not the knowledgeable enthusiast.
>
> The excitement at such auctions is palpable and $200K to an investor, who
> has just spent some millions of an exotica is really small change. However
> that person knows that properly maintained that same AH when offered at the
> same form of auction a year or two down the track will be worth $250K which
> is a return of 25% return over two years. Not a bad investment if you just
> look at the figures, plus while I don't know what it's like where you are,
> it's tax free in this country.
>
> That car would have not been bought by an Austin-Healey enthusiast, but an
> investor. Later it will be sold and depending on where the greatest return
> at the time the $$$$ may go into wines, paintings or even Scotch whisky.
>
> We have to face the fact that Healeys and Austin-Healeys are very much in
> the food chain of international investment objects.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom
> Felts
> Sent: Wednesday, 20 August 2014 8:58 AM
> To: Steven Kingsbury; Randy Hicks
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions
>
> they are going crazy!  A 66 E-Type OTS just sold at auction for very close
> to $300K-------CRAZY.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 20 06:18:35 2014
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Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 8:18:34 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,  Derek Job
 <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions
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OK------well, if anyone is interested, I'll let my 66 E-Type OTS go for, say----only $350K---------waiting for that phone to ring-----------------------------------------------------------------------------!:):)

tom
---- Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
In 1989 V12 E-Types were selling for over B#100,000.

Pitifully low interest rates have led investors to seek other options. This
will reverse when interest rates rise over the next 5 years. I think
Healeys of this type are exactly the sort of car that could lose somebody a
lot of money.


Derek


On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 1:01 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
> I keep a close eye on the auction lists and while I agree that US$200K plus
> is a lot to pay for BN7 Mk2 especially when it's a long way from original.
>
> Personally I wouldn't buy any Austin-Healey that's painted in a metallic
> grey over red, but then again I don't frequent such auctions as a buyer.
>
> However I have attended such auctions and have found the atmosphere at such
> events to be charged with excitement and expectation. People go there to
> see
> the Ferraris bring the many millions that they are currently bringing. Some
> are genuine enthusiasts while many are investors who know that $$ spent
> today will be worth $$$$ tomorrow. Such cars are restored in attractive
> colours that appeal to the investor, not the knowledgeable enthusiast.
>
> The excitement at such auctions is palpable and $200K to an investor, who
> has just spent some millions of an exotica is really small change. However
> that person knows that properly maintained that same AH when offered at the
> same form of auction a year or two down the track will be worth $250K which
> is a return of 25% return over two years. Not a bad investment if you just
> look at the figures, plus while I don't know what it's like where you are,
> it's tax free in this country.
>
> That car would have not been bought by an Austin-Healey enthusiast, but an
> investor. Later it will be sold and depending on where the greatest return
> at the time the $$$$ may go into wines, paintings or even Scotch whisky.
>
> We have to face the fact that Healeys and Austin-Healeys are very much in
> the food chain of international investment objects.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom
> Felts
> Sent: Wednesday, 20 August 2014 8:58 AM
> To: Steven Kingsbury; Randy Hicks
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Monterey Auctions
>
> they are going crazy!  A 66 E-Type OTS just sold at auction for very close
> to $300K-------CRAZY.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 20 07:46:26 2014
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From: "Team.net" <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 09:46:30 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+8fSWVEGVTjw5nR/GrPqrFsYZcHQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Electronic Flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

To all,

 

I have a 1959 BT7 and recently changed the turn signal, parking and brake
lights to LEDS and installed an Electronic Flasher.  The Flasher has three
prongs (B, L & P).

Initially everything worked perfectly; when switching the trafficator to
either a left or right turn, the appropriate front and rear lights flashed
and the single indicator light on the dash indicated the signals were
operating.

 

Now, however, the indicator light on the dash blinks all the time: when
turning and when the trafficator switch is in the neutral position.

 

I have checked the wiring and all seems correct.  It appears there may be
three possible issues: 1) bad flasher, 2) problem/short in the trafficator
switch, or 3) bad relay.

 

All ideas are appreciated.

 

Larry Swift
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 20 07:51:50 2014
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Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 15:52:08 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAHY8+Lkj7StCmrKlizIZ2gnCgAAAEAAAAC1SsZW9xq1HsvozgrY2Kg8BAAAAAA==@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electronic Flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

When using LED bulbs one has to be very precise with proper earthing. 
These LED's use very little current and are very sensitive to bad(dish) 
connections so any resistance in the earth connections can give the 
results mentioned.
Kees Oudesluijs

Team.net schreef op 20-8-2014 15:46:
> To all,
>
>   
>
> I have a 1959 BT7 and recently changed the turn signal, parking and brake
> lights to LEDS and installed an Electronic Flasher.  The Flasher has three
> prongs (B, L & P).
>
> Initially everything worked perfectly; when switching the trafficator to
> either a left or right turn, the appropriate front and rear lights flashed
> and the single indicator light on the dash indicated the signals were
> operating.
>
>   
>
> Now, however, the indicator light on the dash blinks all the time: when
> turning and when the trafficator switch is in the neutral position.
>
>   
>
> I have checked the wiring and all seems correct.  It appears there may be
> three possible issues: 1) bad flasher, 2) problem/short in the trafficator
> switch, or 3) bad relay.
>
>   
>
> All ideas are appreciated.
>
>   
>
> Larry Swift
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8067 - datum van uitgifte: 08/20/14
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Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 10:23:40 -0400
From: Michael J Maloney <mikljmal@gmail.com>
To: "Team.net" <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electronic Flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Larry;
My BJ8 harness has 3 wires;green,light- green/purple,and green and brown.I
am using a RED 3 prong electronic LED flasher w/3prongs 1,P,and2.
The wires are connected-green/brown to #1,green to2,And light-green/purple
grounded to the flasher mounting screw on inner fender.
LEDs,I am told will only work with the red electronic led flasher,something
to do with low power consumption.
Mine have been working for 1 year+
Mike Maloney 66 HLY-32990


On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 9:46 AM, Team.net <lawrence.swift@gmail.com> wrote:

> To all,
>
>
>
> I have a 1959 BT7 and recently changed the turn signal, parking and brake
> lights to LEDS and installed an Electronic Flasher.  The Flasher has three
> prongs (B, L & P).
>
> Initially everything worked perfectly; when switching the trafficator to
> either a left or right turn, the appropriate front and rear lights flashed
> and the single indicator light on the dash indicated the signals were
> operating.
>
>
>
> Now, however, the indicator light on the dash blinks all the time: when
> turning and when the trafficator switch is in the neutral position.
>
>
>
> I have checked the wiring and all seems correct.  It appears there may be
> three possible issues: 1) bad flasher, 2) problem/short in the trafficator
> switch, or 3) bad relay.
>
>
>
> All ideas are appreciated.
>
>
>
> Larry Swift
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mikljmal@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 20 13:18:22 2014
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Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 12:18:27 -0700
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Water borne paints
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would be interested in opinions , maybe experiences of the water borne
automotive paints.
I have talked to a painter who says they are harder to use
-more coats because they don't initially cover as well- but that they make a
very good seal and don't eventually show "mapping" the way the old paints did.
 The ironic thing is that while they don't require solvent for clean up, they
do require a clear coat, which is solvent based.
This is what I have been
told...I'm sure the list is full of other opinions.

Stephen, BJ8
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 20 18:35:18 2014
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From: Gary Anderson <member@linkedin.com>
To: Dave Porter <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2014 00:33:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Dave, let's connect on LinkedIn
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hi Dave,
I'd like to connect with you on LinkedIn.

Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, Star Magazine of the Mercedes-Benz Club of America

Accept:
http://www.linkedin.com/blink?simpleRedirect=0Sdj8MczsMdP4UdjoTcj0Uc3ARfkh9rC
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_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 21 04:34:15 2014
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2014 03:34:13 -0700
From: john gillespie <austinbj8@yahoo.com>
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] getting back on the list
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Good AM,  I had requested a change to a different e/m address, however it
never went through.  Would you please reinstate me at the following e/m
austinbj8@yahoo.com

thanks for your help in this matter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 21 10:50:49 2014
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From: Paul Leeks <paull@glasgows.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2014 17:50:11 +0100
To: healeys@autox.team.net, lawrence.swift@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electronic Flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Larry

I had the same problem when I purchased a new flasher unit for my BN4.

I got the BJ8 one by mistake which gave me the exact same scenario you are
experiencing.

I'm sure you have the right one, but thought it worth a mention, as the
solution could be very simple :-)

Cheers

Paul Leeks
Lancashire
100/6 BN4

--
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_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 21 14:10:41 2014
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From: Richard Wegner <richard@freshimage.ca>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2014 16:08:11 -0400
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Spare parts available for AH Sprite Mk1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A member of our local Healey club has a number of spare parts available for a
AH Sprite Mk1.  I have added a link to the PDF file on this page of his web
site.

http://www.crooz-inc.ca/AHS_parts.html

If you are interested in any of the parts please contact Murray directly at
the phone number or email address shown at the top of the list.

Cheers,
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 21 14:26:54 2014
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2014 16:27:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: carroll phillips <bjcap@optonline.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Healeys] re waterborne paints
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Stephen,
My shop in N.Y. does not require me to be waterborne
compliant.......yet. Since I am a small shop I do not need to get ahead
of the game and switch over.
I have no experience with waterborne, however, I can offer this...
If you have the choice, go solvent based, if a solid color...B  go 2-3
coats urethane and be done with it , the less material the better (
assuming your painter is good and does the job right with out sandind
half of it off)
Base/clear for metallics... again if your painter knows his craft, the
job will be blended correctly and 2 coats clear.
Since the technology hasnt been perfected...yetB  for a waterborne
clearcoat system it has to be solvent based.
Your golden with the solid colors as they can be spot repaired anywhere
and no serious blending required... B  (you did save some original paint
and its formula didnt you ???
Maybe some one with waterborne experience can help out, My point being
if you have a solid color , you are better off with solvent base, not a
huge buildup of material and just enough to do a few buffings and a
colorsand and buff in a decade or so, and simple repair of chips ect.
can easily be done.
note....B B  clearcoats will haze and look aged easier than a solid coat
under normal wear and tear.
Carroll Phillips
Top Down Restorations Inc.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 21 18:27:51 2014
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Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2014 18:27:57 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: john gillespie <austinbj8@yahoo.com>,  "Healeys@autox.team.net"
 <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1408617253.46883.YahooMailNeo@web122504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] getting back on the list
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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john gillespie wrote:
> Good AM,  I had requested a change to a different e/m address, however it
> never went through.  Would you please reinstate me at the following e/m
> austinbj8@yahoo.com

It did go through, I made the change. Yell at Yahoo, not me.

mjb.

Aug 21 18:03:29 autox postfix/smtp[22886]: 1AAB025848F2: to=<austinbj8@yahoo.com>, relay=mta5.am0.yahoodns.net[66.196.118.37]:25, delay=84525, delays=84521/2.1/1/0.63, dsn=4.7.9, status=SOFTBOUNCE (host mta5.am0.yahoodns.net[66.196.118.37] said: 554 5.7.9 Message not accepted for policy reasons.  See http://postmaster.yahoo.com/errors/postmaster-28.html (in reply to end of DATA command))
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 11:30:04 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac+99Ajz/dC5xrzMTYC9JPq5t3FgBA==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Webers surgery for MkII BT7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Some clown has backed into the front of my 3000. He did with sufficient
force and persistence - he kept shoving backwards despite the cars being
locked together - that I shall have to have a lot of work done to the front
end. Spraying from windscreen forwards..............

The repair/sprayer man was going to be spraying my engine compartment and
doing the bodywork associated with putting in a "modified pedal box" in
order to create more clearance for the rearmost weber 45. Seems like we
should combine the jobs.

Does anyone have any pics of this procedure? And/or advice & tips...?

Simon
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Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 09:59:25 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers surgery for MkII BT7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry for your damage, Simon.  Sounds like you got Seinfelded.
http://pagesix.com/2014/08/19/jerry-seinfeld-unleashes-road-rage-in-hamptons/
Can't help with the Weber body mods but it brings to mind a guy I knew in
college who had similar damage to his Healey.  The body guy built a flat
panel that extended from the edge of the bonnet to the stainless fender
strip.  The panel extended from the back edge of the bonnet to close to the
front of the bonnet.  What it did was turn the whole covered area into an
air scoop.  It actually looked quite good although my description doesn't
make it sound so.


On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 6:30 AM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> wrote:

> Some clown has backed into the front of my 3000. He did with sufficient
> force and persistence - he kept shoving backwards despite the cars being
> locked together - that I shall have to have a lot of work done to the front
> end. Spraying from windscreen forwards..............
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 07:55:57 -0700
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Wegner <richard@freshimage.ca>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spare parts available for AH Sprite Mk1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Richard; I will include Murray's list in my monthly Ontario LBC
classified listing.  It gets sent to over 200 enthusiasts and is posted on the
Hamilton BSCC website as well as a few others.  It is in pdf format.  The last
two months can be checked out at
http://www.bsccweb.com/index.html?main=classified.html    or
http://www.bsccweb.com/Files/Cars1.pdf
 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario,
Canada       - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives


On Thursday, August 21, 2014
4:11:27 PM, Richard Wegner <richard@freshimage.ca> wrote:
 


A member of our
local Healey club has a number of spare parts available for a
AH Sprite Mk1. 
I have added a link to the PDF file on this page of his web
site.
http://www.crooz-inc.ca/AHS_parts.html

If you are interested in any of the
parts please contact Murray directly at
the phone number or email address
shown at the top of the list.

Cheers,
_______________________________________________
Archive:
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jstmorris@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 22 10:01:40 2014
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From: "Niels Bengaard" <bengaard@850r.dk>
To: "'lists'" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <20140819081956.DC9336BC824@dd16422.kasserver.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 18:00:49 +0200
Thread-Index: Ac+7hxx9oJYqjjBwQ7qutM7NG4rPPQCmsfew
Content-Language: da
Cc: "'Healeys,  Forum'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The distrubutor is refurbished and adjusted with the correct curve by
Distributor Doctor in UK in 2012.
I have some pictures here
http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Distributor/index.html
And the curve it has
http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Distributor/slides/ignitio
n.jpg .

Niels



-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: lists [mailto:lists@brits-n-pieces.com]
Sendt: 19. august 2014 10:20
Til: Niels Bengaard
Cc: Healeys, Forum
Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking

Hi Niels,

knocking is always a matter of multiple things. Octane, compression, ignition
timing and load of engine (and maybe some more). So, if Tim Ward told you he's
running his BJ8 on regular with no problems it is most likely that he had his
ignition timing adjusted accordingly (i. e. retarded a bit).
An ignition timing of 15 deg BTDC @ idle is not wrong, but more important is
the ignition timing while revving up the engine. If the springs in the bottom
of your distributor have weakened (likely after having done their duty for
years) and the ignition timing is set on idle you'll get most likely knocking
in higher revs (dangerous, because it's likely not to be heard and it causes
serious damage to your engine).
Possible solutions:
a) Have the springs replaced with new ones and the distributor "recurved" (a
good source is Jeff Schlemmer @ http://advanceddistributors.com/)
b) Install an electronic ignition system like the 123ignition
(http://www.brits-n-pieces.com/product-detail/123ignition-distributor-jaguar-
austin-healey-aston-martin-triumph.aspx)
If you decide in favor of b), use carbon core cables, which are a much better
choice with electronic ignition, even for our old cars.

Eric Frenken
Germany


Hi Josef

I have the copper wires. I use 99 octane in Denmark, not sure what regular is
in England, perhaps 95.
I met an Englishman, Tim Ward, with a golden Austin Healey BJ8, he was running
regular he said, with no problems.

Niels

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Pe vegne af
josef-eckert@t-online.de
Sendt: 17. august 2014 21:03
Til: Healeys, Forum
Emne: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking

Hi Niels,
Six cylinder Austin-Healeys usually need todays super petrol, better super
plus 98 or 100 Octane, not Euro Super.
Your shock may be causeed by using wrong ignition cables with high resistance.
Don`t use carbon core cables. Much better are copper core cables for our old
cars.

Josef Eckert
Germany.




Was on holiday in UK this year with my BJ8. Have a couple of questions I need
your help me with.
I normally use super octane fuel but couldn&#x0012;t get it and filled up with
regular. I guess and old car with low compression should be able to use
regular, but big was my surprise when it started knocking under load at low
rpm in third and fourth. Filled up with super again and the problem
disappeared.
Checked the ignition when I returned home, it4s set at 15 deg BTDC @ 650rpm.
I recall having read somewhere that&#x0012;s the right number, so what is
wrong.
Have altered it to 13 deg now on the little wheel on the distributor, did that
with the engine running, wow got a shock, high voltage in my arm. How can that
be, don&#x0012;t recall having had problems with that on other cars.

Niels
Denmark
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Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 17:44:33 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers surgery for MkII BT7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the simplest solution is to buy the bracing part from DW. I think I
mentioned this before and they told you they don't sell it, but they do. Or
at least they did 18 months ago.

Also you might consider cutting out the piece of the shroud that allows
better access to the Webers. It's not absolutely necessary but does make it
easier to remove filters.

Sorry to hear about your car, hopefully he is paying for the repairs.

Derek


On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 11:30 AM, Simon Lachlan <
simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:

> Some clown has backed into the front of my 3000. He did with sufficient
> force and persistence - he kept shoving backwards despite the cars being
> locked together - that I shall have to have a lot of work done to the front
> end. Spraying from windscreen forwards..............
>
> The repair/sprayer man was going to be spraying my engine compartment and
> doing the bodywork associated with putting in a "modified pedal box" in
> order to create more clearance for the rearmost weber 45. Seems like we
> should combine the jobs.
>
> Does anyone have any pics of this procedure? And/or advice & tips...?
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 22 11:33:21 2014
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Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 19:33:30 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20140819081956.DC9336BC824@dd16422.kasserver.com>
 <002901cfbe22$3ee75ff0$bcb61fd0$@dk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Niels,

Did you actually check the curve? There are an awful lot of cowboys 
around in the automotive rebuilding world! I am not saying the 
Distributor Doctor is one but it is worth your while to check to make 
sure it is OK. The curve shown does not indicate anything drastic.
Was the head skimmed at some stage? Is there carbon build up in the 
combustion chambers. Is the mixture set OK. All areas that need 
attention. Remember these engines may be old but do have a relatively 
high compression and originally needed high octane petrol, the old super 
lead containing stuff. Modern HC cars can cope because of anti-knock 
electronics. No such thing of course on a Healey. Use Super plus or 
Excellium, Premium or what have you: 98 octane. This is available at any 
pump I no everywhere in Europe incl. the UK.
Kees Oudesluijs


Niels Bengaard schreef op 22-8-2014 18:00:
> The distrubutor is refurbished and adjusted with the correct curve by
> Distributor Doctor in UK in 2012.
> I have some pictures here
> http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Distributor/index.html
> And the curve it has
> http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Distributor/slides/ignitio
> n.jpg .
>
> Niels
>
>
>
> -----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
> Fra: lists [mailto:lists@brits-n-pieces.com]
> Sendt: 19. august 2014 10:20
> Til: Niels Bengaard
> Cc: Healeys, Forum
> Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking
>
> Hi Niels,
>
> knocking is always a matter of multiple things. Octane, compression, ignition
> timing and load of engine (and maybe some more). So, if Tim Ward told you he's
> running his BJ8 on regular with no problems it is most likely that he had his
> ignition timing adjusted accordingly (i. e. retarded a bit).
> An ignition timing of 15 deg BTDC @ idle is not wrong, but more important is
> the ignition timing while revving up the engine. If the springs in the bottom
> of your distributor have weakened (likely after having done their duty for
> years) and the ignition timing is set on idle you'll get most likely knocking
> in higher revs (dangerous, because it's likely not to be heard and it causes
> serious damage to your engine).
> Possible solutions:
> a) Have the springs replaced with new ones and the distributor "recurved" (a
> good source is Jeff Schlemmer @ http://advanceddistributors.com/)
> b) Install an electronic ignition system like the 123ignition
> (http://www.brits-n-pieces.com/product-detail/123ignition-distributor-jaguar-
> austin-healey-aston-martin-triumph.aspx)
> If you decide in favor of b), use carbon core cables, which are a much better
> choice with electronic ignition, even for our old cars.
>
> Eric Frenken
> Germany
>
>
> Hi Josef
>
> I have the copper wires. I use 99 octane in Denmark, not sure what regular is
> in England, perhaps 95.
> I met an Englishman, Tim Ward, with a golden Austin Healey BJ8, he was running
> regular he said, with no problems.
>
> Niels
>
> -----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
> Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Pe vegne af
> josef-eckert@t-online.de
> Sendt: 17. august 2014 21:03
> Til: Healeys, Forum
> Emne: [Healeys] BJ8 Ignition knocking
>
> Hi Niels,
> Six cylinder Austin-Healeys usually need todays super petrol, better super
> plus 98 or 100 Octane, not Euro Super.
> Your shock may be causeed by using wrong ignition cables with high resistance.
> Don`t use carbon core cables. Much better are copper core cables for our old
> cars.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Germany.
>
>
>
>
> Was on holiday in UK this year with my BJ8. Have a couple of questions I need
> your help me with.
> I normally use super octane fuel but couldn&#x0012;t get it and filled up with
> regular. I guess and old car with low compression should be able to use
> regular, but big was my surprise when it started knocking under load at low
> rpm in third and fourth. Filled up with super again and the problem
> disappeared.
> Checked the ignition when I returned home, it4s set at 15 deg BTDC @ 650rpm.
> I recall having read somewhere that&#x0012;s the right number, so what is
> wrong.
> Have altered it to 13 deg now on the little wheel on the distributor, did that
> with the engine running, wow got a shock, high voltage in my arm. How can that
> be, don&#x0012;t recall having had problems with that on other cars.
>
> Niels
> Denmark
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>
>
> -----
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> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8080 - datum van uitgifte: 08/22/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 22 14:53:24 2014
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From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: 4 - Healeys <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Healeys] derrington steering wheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Derrington style anyway. You would still need an Austin Healey hub from 
Moto Lita though. I think these are made by Mountney and have a much 
better wood finish than the Moto Lita steering wheel. The aluminium may 
have some sharp edges to remove.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=331288810278&ssPageName=ADME:B:FSEL:GB:1123

Kees Oudesluijs
NL
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 23 01:51:02 2014
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References: <53F7ADC7.3060308@chello.nl>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 08:50:52 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: 4 - Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] derrington steering wheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have had three Moto Lita wheels and always found the finish on them to be
excellent.

Derek


On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 9:53 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Derrington style anyway. You would still need an Austin Healey hub from
> Moto Lita though. I think these are made by Mountney and have a much better
> wood finish than the Moto Lita steering wheel. The aluminium may have some
> sharp edges to remove.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=
> 331288810278&ssPageName=ADME:B:FSEL:GB:1123
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 23 02:21:37 2014
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Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 10:21:50 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
References: <53F7ADC7.3060308@chello.nl>
 <CAAh8etn=CK+TgqW4CQrGZaNRcme17aHva16U-kEnac8ooZXVgA@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: 4 - Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] derrington steering wheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The laquer on the Moto Lita wheels is rather mediocre, brittle, very 
thin and not very hard wearing. The laquer on the imitation Moto Lita 
steering wheels by Mountney? (there is no brand name on the wheels) is 
far superior. It is absolutely smooth and has that highly polished 
appearance. However the ridges of the aluminium centre  can be on the 
sharpish side but this is easy to remedy. These are better finished on 
the genuine Moto Lita steering wheels. Also the Moto Lita hubs are 
better designed and finished.

I have always preferred the leather steering wheels from Moto Lita 
though. Good soft grip, comfortable and less sweaty when kept clean. 
Another favourite steering wheel of mine is the old style Nardi in 
leather, suberb and unsurpassed. Problem is the availability of the hub.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Derek Job schreef op 23-8-2014 9:50:
> I have had three Moto Lita wheels and always found the finish on them 
> to be excellent.
>
> Derek
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 9:53 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl 
>
>     Derrington style anyway. You would still need an Austin Healey hub
>     from Moto Lita though. I think these are made by Mountney and have
>     a much better wood finish than the Moto Lita steering wheel. The
>     aluminium may have some sharp edges to remove.
>
>     http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=331288810278&ssPageName=ADME:B:FSEL:GB:1123
>
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>     NL
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>     Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
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> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8084 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 08/23/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 23 12:40:45 2014
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Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 14:40:39 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Battery terminal helmet connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This list has been way to quiet so I have a question of those of great
wisdom and knowledge..
In the BJ7/8 parts book in the electrical section one can find an
illustration showing the original battery cables.
Upon close inspection one will note that here is something odd about the
-ve helmet battery terminal connector. It has a sort of vertical tube cast
into the side of the connector.
I have found this to be the case on all the original Lucas terminals of
this type.
My Cooper S has one, my MGBGT has 2 (it has 2 batteries).
What is the purpose of that tube thingee?
It is only on the -ve connector, surely if it was designed to assist in
removing a seized connector it would be on both ?
It seems very elaborate to be an identification mark !
Curious minds await suggestions.

Michael S
BN1 #174
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 23 14:20:55 2014
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From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LJzrkaAVMFbqrTOn5SR6xMQ_9zJ=wYtqGqO=2tC8Wr7NQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 13:20:07 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Battery terminal helmet connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have no idea but I am going to take a wild guess.  It could be a power 
take off for something that has nothing to do with Healeys.  Perhaps a test 
instrument or an optional accessory.  Whatever the device may have been, it 
would have a solid tapered pin attached to the power cord .  Grounding would 
be accomplished with an alligator clip, probe, or through the device to the 
chassis.

Just a WAG while I get the Healey ready for tomorrow's Annual Ice Cream 
Social in Vacaville.

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2014 11:40 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Battery terminal helmet connectors


> This list has been way to quiet so I have a question of those of great
> wisdom and knowledge..
> In the BJ7/8 parts book in the electrical section one can find an
> illustration showing the original battery cables.
> Upon close inspection one will note that here is something odd about the
> -ve helmet battery terminal connector. It has a sort of vertical tube cast
> into the side of the connector.
> I have found this to be the case on all the original Lucas terminals of
> this type.
> My Cooper S has one, my MGBGT has 2 (it has 2 batteries).
> What is the purpose of that tube thingee?
> It is only on the -ve connector, surely if it was designed to assist in
> removing a seized connector it would be on both ?
> It seems very elaborate to be an identification mark !
> Curious minds await suggestions.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________
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 <34E0D9659B2344FFB35DB8B4E89E5403@LeonardPCPC>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 15:22:09 -0700
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>, AH Mail List
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Battery terminal helmet connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know about other cars but in the original wiring harness of a Bugeye
there is a brown wire with a round tapered connector going to the "A"
connection on the voltage regulator.  From there it goes directly to one of
the two 35 amp fuses and then horns.  Just a friction fit.  I have a regular
clamp style battery connector and the brown (hot) wire is just wrapped around
the clamp screw under the nut these days.  When I first restored my Bugeye, I
had the original configuration.  On my first test drive the car got three
blocks and the engine stopped dead.  I looked under the hood and the tapered
connector had fallen out.  I shoved it back in and the car started right back
up.  I have not had that problem since I went to the clamp style connector.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5



On Saturday, August 23, 2014 1:21 PM, Len and/or
Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts@earthlink.net> wrote:
 

>
>
>I have no idea but
I am going to take a wild guess.  It could be a power 
>take off for something
that has nothing to do with Healeys.  Perhaps a test 
>instrument or an
optional accessory.  Whatever the device may have been, it 
>would have a
solid tapered pin attached to the power cord .  Grounding would 
>be
accomplished with an alligator clip, probe, or through the device to the
>chassis.
>
>Just a WAG while I get the Healey ready for tomorrow's Annual Ice
Cream 
>Social in Vacaville.
>
>(The Other) Len
>Fairfield, CA, USA
>1967 AH
3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Michael
Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent:
Saturday, August 23, 2014 11:40 AM
>Subject: [Healeys] Battery terminal helmet
connectors
>
>
>> This list has been way to quiet so I have a question of
those of great
>> wisdom and knowledge..
>> In the BJ7/8 parts book in the
electrical section one can find an
>> illustration showing the original
battery cables.
>> Upon close inspection one will note that here is something
odd about the
>> -ve helmet battery terminal connector. It has a sort of
vertical tube cast
>> into the side of the connector.
>> I have found this to
be the case on all the original Lucas terminals of
>> this type.
>> My Cooper
S has one, my MGBGT has 2 (it has 2 batteries).
>> What is the purpose of that
tube thingee?
>> It is only on the -ve connector, surely if it was designed to
assist in
>> removing a seized connector it would be on both ?
>> It seems
very elaborate to be an identification mark !
>> Curious minds await
suggestions.
>>
>> Michael S
>> BN1 #174
>>
_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net
>
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive:
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 23 18:24:59 2014
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 <34E0D9659B2344FFB35DB8B4E89E5403@LeonardPCPC>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 17:22:11 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Battery terminal helmet connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

The tube in the terminal is for a special cast lead terminal (auxiliary
lug) that inserts into the tube and is then attached to the wiring loom
with one wire (brown).  It's the power from the battery for the starter.
This lead lug was was a coned shape with a 90 degree extension on it where
the brown wire attached and the cone shaped lead piece fit (snugly) into
the hole in the battery terminal. Commonly they did not last and shorted
out, and they were simply replaced by a ring terminal to the battery
terminal lug.  This was a feature that was on the early Sprites (Bugeyes
and possibly MK IIs) which is why I'm so familiar with the subject.

In fact I'm looking for an NOS one of these for my '60 Bugeye.  They are
around as a buddy of mine found one several years ago.

Cheers,

Curt


On Sat, Aug 23, 2014 at 1:20 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett <
thehartnetts@earthlink.net> wrote:

> I have no idea but I am going to take a wild guess.  It could be a power
> take off for something that has nothing to do with Healeys.  Perhaps a test
> instrument or an optional accessory.  Whatever the device may have been, it
> would have a solid tapered pin attached to the power cord .  Grounding
> would be accomplished with an alligator clip, probe, or through the device
> to the chassis.
>
> Just a WAG while I get the Healey ready for tomorrow's Annual Ice Cream
> Social in Vacaville.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" <
> michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2014 11:40 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Battery terminal helmet connectors
>
>
>  This list has been way to quiet so I have a question of those of great
>> wisdom and knowledge..
>> In the BJ7/8 parts book in the electrical section one can find an
>> illustration showing the original battery cables.
>> Upon close inspection one will note that here is something odd about the
>> -ve helmet battery terminal connector. It has a sort of vertical tube cast
>> into the side of the connector.
>> I have found this to be the case on all the original Lucas terminals of
>> this type.
>> My Cooper S has one, my MGBGT has 2 (it has 2 batteries).
>> What is the purpose of that tube thingee?
>> It is only on the -ve connector, surely if it was designed to assist in
>> removing a seized connector it would be on both ?
>> It seems very elaborate to be an identification mark !
>> Curious minds await suggestions.
>>
>> Michael S
>> BN1 #174
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 23 18:28:51 2014
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 <34E0D9659B2344FFB35DB8B4E89E5403@LeonardPCPC>
 <CAJKrNeTnYpSGqttW5HyGYoazobCEn1ppURDqgTAby_UuNM5Vgg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 17:29:12 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Battery terminal helmet connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

I just saw Mike MacLean's post, he is absolutely correct.

Curt


On Sat, Aug 23, 2014 at 5:22 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Michael,
>
> The tube in the terminal is for a special cast lead terminal (auxiliary
> lug) that inserts into the tube and is then attached to the wiring loom
> with one wire (brown).  It's the power from the battery for the starter.
> This lead lug was was a coned shape with a 90 degree extension on it where
> the brown wire attached and the cone shaped lead piece fit (snugly) into
> the hole in the battery terminal. Commonly they did not last and shorted
> out, and they were simply replaced by a ring terminal to the battery
> terminal lug.  This was a feature that was on the early Sprites (Bugeyes
> and possibly MK IIs) which is why I'm so familiar with the subject.
>
> In fact I'm looking for an NOS one of these for my '60 Bugeye.  They are
> around as a buddy of mine found one several years ago.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 23, 2014 at 1:20 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett <
> thehartnetts@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> I have no idea but I am going to take a wild guess.  It could be a power
>> take off for something that has nothing to do with Healeys.  Perhaps a test
>> instrument or an optional accessory.  Whatever the device may have been, it
>> would have a solid tapered pin attached to the power cord .  Grounding
>> would be accomplished with an alligator clip, probe, or through the device
>> to the chassis.
>>
>> Just a WAG while I get the Healey ready for tomorrow's Annual Ice Cream
>> Social in Vacaville.
>>
>> (The Other) Len
>> Fairfield, CA, USA
>> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" <
>> michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2014 11:40 AM
>> Subject: [Healeys] Battery terminal helmet connectors
>>
>>
>>  This list has been way to quiet so I have a question of those of great
>>> wisdom and knowledge..
>>> In the BJ7/8 parts book in the electrical section one can find an
>>> illustration showing the original battery cables.
>>> Upon close inspection one will note that here is something odd about the
>>> -ve helmet battery terminal connector. It has a sort of vertical tube
>>> cast
>>> into the side of the connector.
>>> I have found this to be the case on all the original Lucas terminals of
>>> this type.
>>> My Cooper S has one, my MGBGT has 2 (it has 2 batteries).
>>> What is the purpose of that tube thingee?
>>> It is only on the -ve connector, surely if it was designed to assist in
>>> removing a seized connector it would be on both ?
>>> It seems very elaborate to be an identification mark !
>>> Curious minds await suggestions.
>>>
>>> Michael S
>>> BN1 #174
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>>> options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 24 09:18:50 2014
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From: "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner@aon.at>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 17:18:48 +0200
Thread-Index: Ac+/rLy/4UOCBtQbTxyEu8I4HJn23Q==
Content-Language: de-at
Subject: [Healeys] windshield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The weatherseal at the bottom of the windshield assembly on my 100 is torn
at the sides. So I wanted to change it. And at the bottom of the windshield
sometimes a little water finds its way between the glass and the frame. So
change that at the same time.

 

As one of the past owners did not use a rubber seal but did put silicone
between frame and glass, it was very hard to separate frame and glass. I
just finished the bottom side.

 

My questions:

 

Any hints to clean the frame and the glass from silicone?

 

How is the upper part of the assembly taken apart? I only find some rivets
on the top of the frame. Do I have to drill them out? Are these standard
rivets or is there any special piece required?

 

Any hints on reassembly? Especially for the rubber parts?

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

 

Reinhart

 

 

 

 

Reinhart Rosner

55 100 BN 1

Vienna - Austria
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 24 10:09:20 2014
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References: <008101cfbfae$b4504d50$1cf0e7f0$@aon.at>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 12:09:39 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Reinhart Rosner <reinhart.rosner@aon.at>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Reinhart,
Any hints to clean the frame and the glass from silicone?
As I'm sure you have probably found out and as far as I know the only way
to remove silicone is by mechanical means... this makes it really difficult
to remove from the chrome channel but a razor will easily remove it from
the glass.
How is the upper part of the assembly taken apart? I only find some rivets
on the top of the frame. Do I have to drill them out? Are these standard
rivets or is there any special piece required?
I've just gone through this on #174.
Originally there were "L" shaped brackets in the 4 corners of the
windshield frame. Moss #805-050. Being a bit of a masochist I actually made
a set rather than buying them ....I would recommend buying them :-).
There are four 6BA countersunk slot screws in each bracket and the tapped
holes in the brackets for those screws have to be very accurately
positioned for the brackets to work correctly. also be sure to check that
the 4 countersunk holes in each of the 4 frame sections are in good
condition.
Originally Glass-Pak <http://www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionK/K26.pdf>was used
to install the windshield glass. This material, which apparently is raw
rubber, swells upon contact with engine oil gripping the glass into the
channel. In my experience Glass-Pak dries out over the years and the frame
becomes loose on the glass.
I'm contemplating using glazing urethane
<http://www.amazon.ca/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK>
but the jury is still out...it is not original although I suspect that it
will be almost impossible to tell.

Michael S
BN1 #174

P.S. Two more things to keep in mind.
1. the aluminium posts must be secured to the windshield frame BEFORE you
install the glass.
2.  pads must be installed in the bottom of the channel to ensure that the
heads of the screws and the corner brackets to not contact the glass.


On Sun, Aug 24, 2014 at 11:18 AM, Reinhart Rosner <reinhart.rosner@aon.at>
wrote:

> The weatherseal at the bottom of the windshield assembly on my 100 is torn
> at the sides. So I wanted to change it. And at the bottom of the windshield
> sometimes a little water finds its way between the glass and the frame. So
> change that at the same time.
>
>
>
> As one of the past owners did not use a rubber seal but did put silicone
> between frame and glass, it was very hard to separate frame and glass. I
> just finished the bottom side.
>
>
>
> My questions:
>
>
>
> Any hints to clean the frame and the glass from silicone?
>
>
>
> How is the upper part of the assembly taken apart? I only find some rivets
> on the top of the frame. Do I have to drill them out? Are these standard
> rivets or is there any special piece required?
>
>
>
> Any hints on reassembly? Especially for the rubber parts?
>
>
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
>
> Reinhart
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Reinhart Rosner
>
> 55 100 BN 1
>
> Vienna - Austria
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 07:03:14 2014
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 09:02:57 -0400
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Coker Michelin Tire rebate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A few months back I purchased a suit of Michelin XAS 180-15's for my 100
and as i have said in prevIous messages I think they are great.  They have
a wonderful feel, run quietly, fill the wheel openings nicely, provide a
bit more ground clearance, etc. They were also quite expensive....

In this morning's email I received an announcement from Coker tires telling
me that Michelin is giving a $70.00 rebate to anyone who purchases a set of
four tires via MasterCard in the next 30 days, so if anyone is on the fence
and this will help push them off please factor this into your decision.  Of
course, this rebate does nothing for ME as I am apparently ineligible,
having made my decision prior to its effective date, but so it goes.

Best--Michael Oritt
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 09:10:00 2014
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From: "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner@aon.at>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
References: <008101cfbfae$b4504d50$1cf0e7f0$@aon.at>
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Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 17:09:07 +0200
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Michael,
Thank you very much for these fantastic hints.
May I ask you and the rest of the list some additional questions?

Removing silicone
I have one of these special knifes to remove sticker from glass, where it did
work well. Unfortunately it does not fit in the chrome channel. I read that
baby oil, body lotion, rinsing liquid or ice should make it easier.
Nevertheless a matter of mechanical removing it.

Taking upper part apart
So the rivets on the upside of the frame where the top touches are obviously
wrong. I found these bracket at some of the European sources (cheapest seems
to be Cape International). Before taking the complete frame apart (now I only
took off the lower part) I am going to order these brackets and screws.
Does anyone have a detail picture available to post to me from the top of the
frame with the screws visible?

Reassembly
Already at home I have what is called bglazing rubberb. Is this the same
as Michael calls it Glass-Pak?

Glazing urethane is used additionally? I suppose between the glass and the
frame? Is there any European supplier for this stuff?
What kind of pads should be used in the bottom of the channel to avoid contact
between screws and glass? Is there any source for these or did you make them
yourself? If yes, from which material?
The last piece will be the rubber under the then finished assembly. It does
have an asymmetric cross-sectional view. Which side should look where to?

Reinhart






Von: michael.salter@gmail.com [mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com] Im Auftrag von
Michael Salter
Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. August 2014 18:10
An: Reinhart Rosner
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] windshield



Hi Reinhart,
Any hints to clean the frame and the glass from silicone?
As I'm sure you have probably found out and as far as I know the only way to
remove silicone is by mechanical means... this makes it really difficult to
remove from the chrome channel but a razor will easily remove it from the
glass.
How is the upper part of the assembly taken apart? I only find some rivets on
the top of the frame. Do I have to drill them out? Are these standard rivets
or is there any special piece required?

I've just gone through this on #174.
Originally there were "L" shaped brackets in the 4 corners of the windshield
frame. Moss #805-050. Being a bit of a masochist I actually made a set rather
than buying them ....I would recommend buying them :-).

There are four 6BA countersunk slot screws in each bracket and the tapped
holes in the brackets for those screws have to be very accurately positioned
for the brackets to work correctly. also be sure to check that the 4
countersunk holes in each of the 4 frame sections are in good condition.

Originally Glass-Pak  <http://www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionK/K26.pdf> was used
to install the windshield glass. This material, which apparently is raw
rubber, swells upon contact with engine oil gripping the glass into the
channel. In my experience Glass-Pak dries out over the years and the frame
becomes loose on the glass.

I'm contemplating using glazing urethane
<http://www.amazon.ca/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK>
but the jury is still out...it is not original although I suspect that it will
be almost impossible to tell.



Michael S

BN1 #174

P.S. Two more things to keep in mind.
1. the aluminium posts must be secured to the windshield frame BEFORE you
install the glass.
2.  pads must be installed in the bottom of the channel to ensure that the
heads of the screws and the corner brackets to not contact the glass.
Archive:  <http://www.team.net/archive> http://www.team.net/archive
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 11:25:19 2014
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 13:25:09 -0400
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission and Differential lubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There is a good if brief article in this month's issue of "Vintage
Motorsports" dealing with lube choices for both transmissions and
differentials.  Though the article does not go into matters such as what
metals like what GL ratings it does confirm that 75-90 transmission oil is
approximately equal in viscosity to 10w-40 engine oils and is the right
choice for most of us.

Worth a read--Michael Oritt
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 11:51:21 2014
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From: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 13:51:41 -0400
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Non healey related
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Need to free up space in the garage for the winter so I'm selling a car.
Healey and parts all over the place. If anyone knows of someone who likes VW
bugs please pass along. Not as fast as a healey but parts are sooooo much
cheaper!


View item:
Volkswagen : Beetle - Classic 2 Door Coupe 1967 VW Beetle

End time: Aug 31, 2014, 4:18:49 PM EDT



Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248
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Subject: [Healeys] transmission / OD oil
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thought I would add that in the opinion of Healey trans/OD rebuilders like
Quantam Mechanics and Healey Surgeons best oil for the Healey Type A overdrive
is a non detergent, 30 or 40 weight. QM only recommends 30 wt from what I
understand. The other oils like 20w50 that contain the detergent additives are
not ideal for our overdrives.  I use 40 wt ND which you can get off of Amazon
as otherwise hard to find a 40 wt ND.  think 30 wt ND is available from
several sources.
Regards
Mike Lewis
1956 100M
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Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 22:31:22 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8D18EB853A730D2-317C-282A6@webmail-m246.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] transmission / OD oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

SAE 30,40, 20W50 etc. is fine for OD gearboxes and gearboxes with 
brass/bronze parts like synchro rings or forks. Do not use EP80/90 as 
they may contain F, Cl and other elements based dopes that can be 
harmful to certain parts.

Kees Oudesluijs

MIKE LEWIS schreef op 25-8-2014 22:14:
> Thought I would add that in the opinion of Healey trans/OD rebuilders like
> Quantam Mechanics and Healey Surgeons best oil for the Healey Type A overdrive
> is a non detergent, 30 or 40 weight. QM only recommends 30 wt from what I
> understand. The other oils like 20w50 that contain the detergent additives are
> not ideal for our overdrives.  I use 40 wt ND which you can get off of Amazon
> as otherwise hard to find a 40 wt ND.  think 30 wt ND is available from
> several sources.
> Regards
> Mike Lewis
> 1956 100M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8098 - datum van uitgifte: 08/25/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 14:41:24 2014
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 <53FB9D1A.8050705@chello.nl>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 16:41:26 -0400
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] transmission / OD oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Kees--

Over here at least the products that are corrosive to yellow metals are
labelled GL5 and are described as "Gear Oil", usually employing words such
as "High Pressure or "Extreme Pressure".

Some of these are rated as "GL4/5" but I am suspicious about their
suitability for either transmission or diff:  If they do not contain a mix
that gives "Extreme Pressure" protection they may or may not be okay for
brass parts but probably are not up to the loads that hypoid gears impose.
 OTOH if they are safe for the diff they might not be good for the
transmission for opposite reasons.

I'll stick with Redline MT90 in my transmissions, both street and track,
and any quality diff oil.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Aug 25, 2014 at 4:31 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> SAE 30,40, 20W50 etc. is fine for OD gearboxes and gearboxes with
> brass/bronze parts like synchro rings or forks. Do not use EP80/90 as they
> may contain F, Cl and other elements based dopes that can be harmful to
> certain parts.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> MIKE LEWIS schreef op 25-8-2014 22:14:
>
>> Thought I would add that in the opinion of Healey trans/OD rebuilders like
>> Quantam Mechanics and Healey Surgeons best oil for the Healey Type A
>> overdrive
>> is a non detergent, 30 or 40 weight. QM only recommends 30 wt from what I
>> understand. The other oils like 20w50 that contain the detergent
>> additives are
>> not ideal for our overdrives.  I use 40 wt ND which you can get off of
>> Amazon
>> as otherwise hard to find a 40 wt ND.  think 30 wt ND is available from
>> several sources.
>> Regards
>> Mike Lewis
>> 1956 100M
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8098 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 08/25/14
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 14:50:18 2014
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From: Brian Drab <bgdrab@eastlink.ca>
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 13:50:36 -0700
Thread-index: Ac/ApjhpI9O6MvMcT12AciiVLpyQcQ==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring confusion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My overdrive just stopped working the other day. It worked fine when I
parked the car (BJ8) and about an hour later when we drove off it wouldn't
go into OD.

I'm planning on checking all of the electrical before I go any deeper but
have run into a confusing situation. 

I went to John Simms site and got an excellent troubleshooting program of
it. There in is the problem. On his wiring diagram, it shows the OD relay
and it's connections. On the diagram it shows the ground going to W2  and
the W1 terminal going to the dash switch and the throttle switch. 

In the shop manual and other sources, it shows the W1 connection going to
ground and the W2 terminal being used for the dash switch and the throttle
switch in other words exactly backwards.

I really tend to believe the shop manual but would like to know if anyone
else has noticed this or experienced any problems with this.

Brian Drab

Vancouver BC
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 14:53:56 2014
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Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 22:54:18 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
References: <8D18EB853A730D2-317C-282A6@webmail-m246.sysops.aol.com>
 <53FB9D1A.8050705@chello.nl>
 <CAPTa0B77pcLrq3XkKj1N3eUpf4cKuUVWCJrA5wK6dnn6nniY=w@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] transmission / OD oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Redline MT90 is fine although some people seem to experience 
leaking/sweating of the gearbox. EP oils are in general best for all 
steel gearboxes and most differentials.
Kees Oudesluijs


Michael Oritt schreef op 25-8-2014 22:41:
> Kees--
>
> Over here at least the products that are corrosive to yellow metals 
> are labelled GL5 and are described as "Gear Oil", usually employing 
> words such as "High Pressure or "Extreme Pressure".
>
> Some of these are rated as "GL4/5" but I am suspicious about their 
> suitability for either transmission or diff:  If they do not contain a 
> mix that gives "Extreme Pressure" protection they may or may not be 
> okay for brass parts but probably are not up to the loads that hypoid 
> gears impose.  OTOH if they are safe for the diff they might not be 
> good for the transmission for opposite reasons.
>
> I'll stick with Redline MT90 in my transmissions, both street and 
> track, and any quality diff oil.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 25, 2014 at 4:31 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl 
>
>     SAE 30,40, 20W50 etc. is fine for OD gearboxes and gearboxes with
>     brass/bronze parts like synchro rings or forks. Do not use EP80/90
>     as they may contain F, Cl and other elements based dopes that can
>     be harmful to certain parts.
>
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>
>     MIKE LEWIS schreef op 25-8-2014 22:14:
>
>         Thought I would add that in the opinion of Healey trans/OD
>         rebuilders like
>         Quantam Mechanics and Healey Surgeons best oil for the Healey
>         Type A overdrive
>         is a non detergent, 30 or 40 weight. QM only recommends 30 wt
>         from what I
>         understand. The other oils like 20w50 that contain the
>         detergent additives are
>         not ideal for our overdrives.  I use 40 wt ND which you can
>         get off of Amazon
>         as otherwise hard to find a 40 wt ND.  think 30 wt ND is
>         available from
>         several sources.
>         Regards
>         Mike Lewis
>         1956 100M
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>         Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
>         -----
>         Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>         Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>         Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8098 - datum van
>         uitgifte: 08/25/14
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>     Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8098 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 08/25/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 15:32:57 2014
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Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 17:31:32 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] transmission / OD oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I use Redline MTL---noticeable difference in smooth shifting.

tom
---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
SAE 30,40, 20W50 etc. is fine for OD gearboxes and gearboxes with 
brass/bronze parts like synchro rings or forks. Do not use EP80/90 as 
they may contain F, Cl and other elements based dopes that can be 
harmful to certain parts.

Kees Oudesluijs

MIKE LEWIS schreef op 25-8-2014 22:14:
> Thought I would add that in the opinion of Healey trans/OD rebuilders like
> Quantam Mechanics and Healey Surgeons best oil for the Healey Type A overdrive
> is a non detergent, 30 or 40 weight. QM only recommends 30 wt from what I
> understand. The other oils like 20w50 that contain the detergent additives are
> not ideal for our overdrives.  I use 40 wt ND which you can get off of Amazon
> as otherwise hard to find a 40 wt ND.  think 30 wt ND is available from
> several sources.
> Regards
> Mike Lewis
> 1956 100M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8098 - datum van uitgifte: 08/25/14
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 15:33:35 2014
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Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 17:33:39 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] transmission / OD oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For some reason, I was advised to use RL MTL in the Healey and MT90 in the Jag----------------------

not sure why.


---- Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Kees--

Over here at least the products that are corrosive to yellow metals are
labelled GL5 and are described as "Gear Oil", usually employing words such
as "High Pressure or "Extreme Pressure".

Some of these are rated as "GL4/5" but I am suspicious about their
suitability for either transmission or diff:  If they do not contain a mix
that gives "Extreme Pressure" protection they may or may not be okay for
brass parts but probably are not up to the loads that hypoid gears impose.
 OTOH if they are safe for the diff they might not be good for the
transmission for opposite reasons.

I'll stick with Redline MT90 in my transmissions, both street and track,
and any quality diff oil.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Aug 25, 2014 at 4:31 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> SAE 30,40, 20W50 etc. is fine for OD gearboxes and gearboxes with
> brass/bronze parts like synchro rings or forks. Do not use EP80/90 as they
> may contain F, Cl and other elements based dopes that can be harmful to
> certain parts.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> MIKE LEWIS schreef op 25-8-2014 22:14:
>
>> Thought I would add that in the opinion of Healey trans/OD rebuilders like
>> Quantam Mechanics and Healey Surgeons best oil for the Healey Type A
>> overdrive
>> is a non detergent, 30 or 40 weight. QM only recommends 30 wt from what I
>> understand. The other oils like 20w50 that contain the detergent
>> additives are
>> not ideal for our overdrives.  I use 40 wt ND which you can get off of
>> Amazon
>> as otherwise hard to find a 40 wt ND.  think 30 wt ND is available from
>> several sources.
>> Regards
>> Mike Lewis
>> 1956 100M
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 16:12:37 2014
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From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'Brian Drab'" <bgdrab@eastlink.ca>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000001cfc0a6$38f9c1b0$aaed4510$@eastlink.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 18:12:34 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac/ApjhpI9O6MvMcT12AciiVLpyQcQACzOHw
Content-Language: en-us
 a=lReFixcaowqd3lUkmOsbOw==:117 a=lReFixcaowqd3lUkmOsbOw==:17
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring confusion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Brian, it makes no difference which way the wires are connected to terminals
W2 and W1.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian
Drab
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2014 4:51 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring confusion

 

My overdrive just stopped working the other day. It worked fine when I
parked the car (BJ8) and about an hour later when we drove off it wouldn't
go into OD.

 

I'm planning on checking all of the electrical before I go any deeper but
have run into a confusing situation. 

 

I went to John Simms site and got an excellent troubleshooting program of
it. There in is the problem. On his wiring diagram, it shows the OD relay
and it's connections. On the diagram it shows the ground going to W2  and
the W1 terminal going to the dash switch and the throttle switch. 

 

In the shop manual and other sources, it shows the W1 connection going to
ground and the W2 terminal being used for the dash switch and the throttle
switch in other words exactly backwards.

 

I really tend to believe the shop manual but would like to know if anyone
else has noticed this or experienced any problems with this.

 

Brian Drab

 

Vancouver BC

 <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

 

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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/bmp which had a name of Overdrive Electrics- Wires to W1 and W2 reversed.bmp]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 16:21:00 2014
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From: "Mike Garvey" <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: "'Brian Drab'" <bgdrab@eastlink.ca>,	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000001cfc0a6$38f9c1b0$aaed4510$@eastlink.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 18:21:22 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac/ApjhpI9O6MvMcT12AciiVLpyQcQABBnQw
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring confusion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Brian,
This does not answer your question, but there is a non-intrusive, low level
troubleshooting test that you can do that will tell you if part/most of the
electrical aspects of the OD are working. With the ignition on, but the
engine not running put the transmission in third or fourth; turn on the OD
switch. You should hear a solenoid click.  If not, there are likely
electrical problems.  If yes, the problem is more likely mechanical by
process of elimination.
Mike

Michael Garvey
1967 BJ8/38046
Swampscott, MA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian
Drab
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2014 4:51 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring confusion

My overdrive just stopped working the other day. It worked fine when I
parked the car (BJ8) and about an hour later when we drove off it wouldn't
go into OD.

I'm planning on checking all of the electrical before I go any deeper but
have run into a confusing situation. 

I went to John Simms site and got an excellent troubleshooting program of
it. There in is the problem. On his wiring diagram, it shows the OD relay
and it's connections. On the diagram it shows the ground going to W2  and
the W1 terminal going to the dash switch and the throttle switch. 

In the shop manual and other sources, it shows the W1 connection going to
ground and the W2 terminal being used for the dash switch and the throttle
switch in other words exactly backwards.

I really tend to believe the shop manual but would like to know if anyone
else has noticed this or experienced any problems with this.

Brian Drab

Vancouver BC
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/r3m1g4@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 25 16:29:29 2014
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From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Reinhart Rosner'" <reinhart.rosner@aon.at>, "'Michael Salter'"
 <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
References: <008101cfbfae$b4504d50$1cf0e7f0$@aon.at>
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Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 15:29:19 -0700
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Content-language: en-us
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am not sure if the window brackets are the same as the ones for my BT7. I
bought new brackets and screws but did not use the brackets because they
were not a good fit. The screw holes did not line up the same because of the
way the brackets were bent. I re-plated and used the original ones.

Some silicone sealants are less resistant to oil. Soaking it in oil could
help.

Don't use glazing urethane unless you want a permanent assembly.

John
'62 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Reinhart
Rosner
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2014 8:09 AM
To: 'Michael Salter'
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] windshield

Hi Michael,
Thank you very much for these fantastic hints.
May I ask you and the rest of the list some additional questions?

Removing silicone
I have one of these special knifes to remove sticker from glass, where it
did work well. Unfortunately it does not fit in the chrome channel. I read
that baby oil, body lotion, rinsing liquid or ice should make it easier.
Nevertheless a matter of mechanical removing it.

Taking upper part apart
So the rivets on the upside of the frame where the top touches are obviously
wrong. I found these bracket at some of the European sources (cheapest seems
to be Cape International). Before taking the complete frame apart (now I
only took off the lower part) I am going to order these brackets and screws.
Does anyone have a detail picture available to post to me from the top of
the frame with the screws visible?

Reassembly
Already at home I have what is called bglazing rubberb. Is this the same
as Michael calls it Glass-Pak?

Glazing urethane is used additionally? I suppose between the glass and the
frame? Is there any European supplier for this stuff?
What kind of pads should be used in the bottom of the channel to avoid
contact between screws and glass? Is there any source for these or did you
make them yourself? If yes, from which material?
The last piece will be the rubber under the then finished assembly. It does
have an asymmetric cross-sectional view. Which side should look where to?

Reinhart






Von: michael.salter@gmail.com [mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com] Im Auftrag
von Michael Salter
Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. August 2014 18:10
An: Reinhart Rosner
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] windshield



Hi Reinhart,
Any hints to clean the frame and the glass from silicone?
As I'm sure you have probably found out and as far as I know the only way to
remove silicone is by mechanical means... this makes it really difficult to
remove from the chrome channel but a razor will easily remove it from the
glass.
How is the upper part of the assembly taken apart? I only find some rivets
on the top of the frame. Do I have to drill them out? Are these standard
rivets or is there any special piece required?

I've just gone through this on #174.
Originally there were "L" shaped brackets in the 4 corners of the windshield
frame. Moss #805-050. Being a bit of a masochist I actually made a set
rather than buying them ....I would recommend buying them :-).

There are four 6BA countersunk slot screws in each bracket and the tapped
holes in the brackets for those screws have to be very accurately positioned
for the brackets to work correctly. also be sure to check that the 4
countersunk holes in each of the 4 frame sections are in good condition.

Originally Glass-Pak  <http://www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionK/K26.pdf> was
used to install the windshield glass. This material, which apparently is raw
rubber, swells upon contact with engine oil gripping the glass into the
channel. In my experience Glass-Pak dries out over the years and the frame
becomes loose on the glass.

I'm contemplating using glazing urethane
<http://www.amazon.ca/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK>
but the jury is still out...it is not original although I suspect that it
will be almost impossible to tell.



Michael S

BN1 #174

P.S. Two more things to keep in mind.
1. the aluminium posts must be secured to the windshield frame BEFORE you
install the glass.
2.  pads must be installed in the bottom of the channel to ensure that the
heads of the screws and the corner brackets to not contact the glass.
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From: Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 19:14:08 -0500
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] transmission/OD oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I use a 40wt aviation non detergent oil, Aeroshell 80.  Easy to get from any
airport.  I've used it for many years with no problems and tried a few other
oils and the Aeroshell resulted in noticeably better shifting.  I just checked
the oil level a few weeks ago and it still looks practically new after many
years.  Maintenance manual recommends 40wt non detergent, so thats what I've
always used.

Frank
65 BJ8
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2014 14:44:29 -0700
From: ANTHONY DI FRANCESCA <yont55@verizon.net>
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] getting the list back
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I never had a password. How do I give you One 
  
                                                                 
yont55@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 26 20:33:35 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2014 19:33:12 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a Moss spin on oil filter kit. I need a new filter. Any idea on a
Fram or Wix #?
Thanks

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: sentenac.rw@gmail.com
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2014 19:54:50 -0700
References: <CACPMnYqQM_xp+dfyxBw4T5=8zZ0Lz7mPzPiVfpBKS_MYALMM9g@mail.gmail.com>
User-Agent: ForteAgent/7.20.32.1218
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anything BUT Fram, for starters.  Wix is better.  There is a huge
batch of info in the archives on some tests of filters.  Nothing was
worse than fram.  I like the Mobil 1 filter but it isn't cheap.

-Roland

On Tue, 26 Aug 2014 19:33:12 -0700, Ira wrote:

>I have a Moss spin on oil filter kit. I need a new filter. Any idea on a
>Fram or Wix #?
>Thanks
>
>Ira Erbs
>Portland, OR
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2014 19:57:19 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYqQM_xp+dfyxBw4T5=8zZ0Lz7mPzPiVfpBKS_MYALMM9g@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Fram#, IIRC, is PH3600.  Wix equivalent is 51516 (have that one memorized).

The Wix is a vastly superior product (I have cut both open).

Bob


On 8/26/2014 7:33 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> I have a Moss spin on oil filter kit. I need a new filter. Any idea on a
> Fram or Wix #?
> Thanks
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>     _______                                  _______
>       (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>           (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 26 20:58:59 2014
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 <53FD490F.1010000@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2014 19:59:23 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks,
Did not intend to get Fran,just needed a # to cross reference

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
On Aug 26, 2014 7:57 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Fram#, IIRC, is PH3600.  Wix equivalent is 51516 (have that one memorized).
>
> The Wix is a vastly superior product (I have cut both open).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 8/26/2014 7:33 PM, I Erbs wrote:
>
>> I have a Moss spin on oil filter kit. I need a new filter. Any idea on a
>> Fram or Wix #?
>> Thanks
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland, OR
>>     _______                                  _______
>>       (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>>           (_________________________)
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 26 21:34:20 2014
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: "'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYqQM_xp+dfyxBw4T5=8zZ0Lz7mPzPiVfpBKS_MYALMM9g@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2014 23:34:09 -0400
Thread-index: AQIS3XUwcmUxa5TcsTYATyh/6V8ZcAI5lw3Mm0vHu8A=
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Read the study at:

http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
sentenac.rw@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2014 10:55 PM
To: I Erbs
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters

Anything BUT Fram, for starters.  Wix is better.  There is a huge batch of
info in the archives on some tests of filters.  Nothing was worse than fram.
I like the Mobil 1 filter but it isn't cheap.

-Roland

On Tue, 26 Aug 2014 19:33:12 -0700, Ira wrote:

>I have a Moss spin on oil filter kit. I need a new filter. Any idea on 
>a Fram or Wix #?
>Thanks
>
>Ira Erbs
>Portland, OR
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 26 21:41:13 2014
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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2014 20:41:57 -0700
From: "rrengineer.mike" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I hope Fran doesn't mind! B 

Mike MacLean
56 BN2 (finally painted)
60 AN5


Sent via the Samsung GALAXY SB. 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> 
Date:08/26/2014  19:59  (GMT-08:00) 
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> 
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters 

Thanks,
Did not intend to get Fran,just needed a # to cross reference

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
On Aug 26, 2014 7:57 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Fram#, IIRC, is PH3600.  Wix equivalent is 51516 (have that one memorized).
>
> The Wix is a vastly superior product (I have cut both open).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 8/26/2014 7:33 PM, I Erbs wrote:
>
>> I have a Moss spin on oil filter kit. I need a new filter. Any idea on a
>> Fram or Wix #?
>> Thanks
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland, OR
>>     _______                                  _______
>>       (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>>           (_________________________)
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 01:49:58 2014
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 09:50:00 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CACPMnYqQM_xp+dfyxBw4T5=8zZ0Lz7mPzPiVfpBKS_MYALMM9g@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Some years ago there was a discussion and someone had performed a test 
on oil filters.
I few tests I picked up through Google:

http://filtrationcomparisons.weebly.com/test-pictures-and-results.html

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/637158-official-oil-filter-testing-results-thread-4g63t-4b11t.html

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html

Kees Oudesluijs



.
I Erbs schreef op 27-8-2014 4:33:
> I have a Moss spin on oil filter kit. I need a new filter. Any idea on a
> Fram or Wix #?
> Thanks
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>     _______                                  _______
>       (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>           (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8105 - datum van uitgifte: 08/26/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 06:38:15 2014
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From: "Team.net" <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYqQM_xp+dfyxBw4T5=8zZ0Lz7mPzPiVfpBKS_MYALMM9g@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 08:38:17 -0400
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Interesting.  I just had my engine rebuilt and was unable to develop any oil
pressure with the spin on.

Had to revert to the canister.

Larry

> On Aug 26, 2014, at 10:59 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks,
> Did not intend to get Fran,just needed a # to cross reference
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
>> On Aug 26, 2014 7:57 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> Fram#, IIRC, is PH3600.  Wix equivalent is 51516 (have that one
memorized).
>>
>> The Wix is a vastly superior product (I have cut both open).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>> On 8/26/2014 7:33 PM, I Erbs wrote:
>>>
>>> I have a Moss spin on oil filter kit. I need a new filter. Any idea on a
>>> Fram or Wix #?
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Ira Erbs
>>> Portland, OR
>>>    _______                                  _______
>>>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>>>          (_________________________)
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>>> options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> *******************************************************************
>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>>
>> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 06:50:18 2014
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 14:50:36 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CACPMnYqQM_xp+dfyxBw4T5=8zZ0Lz7mPzPiVfpBKS_MYALMM9g@mail.gmail.com>
 <53FD490F.1010000@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

One usually has to prime the filter (and hoses if remote) before 
fitting. Can be messy! If you don't it can be a while (minutes) before 
pressure builds up.
Kees Oudesluijs


Team.net schreef op 27-8-2014 14:38:
> Interesting.  I just had my engine rebuilt and was unable to develop any oil
> pressure with the spin on.
>
> Had to revert to the canister.
>
> Larry
>
>> On Aug 26, 2014, at 10:59 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Did not intend to get Fran,just needed a # to cross reference
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland,OR
>> IT Educator and Consultant
>> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
>>> On Aug 26, 2014 7:57 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> Fram#, IIRC, is PH3600.  Wix equivalent is 51516 (have that one
> memorized).
>>> The Wix is a vastly superior product (I have cut both open).
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 8/26/2014 7:33 PM, I Erbs wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I have a Moss spin on oil filter kit. I need a new filter. Any idea on a
>>>> Fram or Wix #?
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>> Ira Erbs
>>>> Portland, OR
>>>>     _______                                  _______
>>>>       (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>>>>           (_________________________)
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>
>>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>>>> options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> --
>>> *******************************************************************
>>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>>>
>>> *******************************************************************
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4007/8107 - datum van uitgifte: 08/26/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Probably not the filter's fault.

As an aside, I recently got a lesson on why you should follow manufacturers' recommendations, unless you REALLY know 
better. Came across a mechanic's website who says he gets lots of business repairing Ford Modular 4.6L V8s, like in my 
Mustang.  Turns out the two cams are driven by chains (good), but the chain tensioners are hydraulically activated and 
if you use an incorrect oil or filter the tensioners might not work correctly on startup, and may break due to the chain 
flopping around.  The owner's and shop manual call for Motorcraft 5W-20 oil and a Motorcraft filter with anti-drainback 
valve.  If you use a higher-vis oil and/or a filter w/o the drainback valve the tensioners can break, and possibly throw 
the valve timing off a tooth or two (hence his increased business).  Fortunately, since I've followed the recommendation 
(for once) since new, even though I thought at first that 5W-20 was 'too thin' and considered using up my stock of 
10W-30.  Not saying other good 5W-20 oils and filters wouldn't work, but it's an expensive repair.  Oh yeah, I (almost) 
always pre-fill the filer when changing.

Interestingly enough, my BJ8 and, I think, all 6-cyl Healeys have a hydraulic chain tensioner, which is made out of 
steel and a hard rubber rubbing surface.  Apparently, a much more robust design (someone didn't tell the bean counters 
at BMC).

Bob



On 8/27/2014 5:38 AM, Team.net wrote:
> Interesting.  I just had my engine rebuilt and was unable to develop any oil pressure with the spin on.
>
> Had to revert to the canister.
>
> Larry
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "Ahealey help"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>, "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYqQM_xp+dfyxBw4T5=8zZ0Lz7mPzPiVfpBKS_MYALMM9g@mail.gmail.com>
 <53FD490F.1010000@comcast.net>
 <CACPMnYrYvf15S_hUm5t0nuvOBzAib3sAvqK54Ka6s7JHmbQE+A@mail.gmail.com>
 <B8296EAD-9016-4ACC-8EBB-05CDA7A72B22@gmail.com>
 <53FDD4EC.9030305@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 08:10:59 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If the spin on oil filter adaptor is installed up side down the oil will try 
to flow backwards thru the filter which it will not do.

All new cars today are using a 5W-20 and lower viscosity oil. Especially 
those with VVT units. If you do not change the oil on a regular basis, or 
use to this of an oil the very fine filter screens will plug up causing the 
VVT units to fail. Also as you say the tensioners will bleed off and the 
nylon guide break off. Causing the chains to get sloppy and noise, then 
jumping time. This has been an issue for the Jaguar, Ford motors as well as 
the BMW motor that is used in the Range Rovers.

At one time we were doing chains, tensioners and guides on the early Jaguar 
V8 motors about 3 a month.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com


-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 5:54 AM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters

Probably not the filter's fault.

As an aside, I recently got a lesson on why you should follow manufacturers' 
recommendations, unless you REALLY know
better. Came across a mechanic's website who says he gets lots of business 
repairing Ford Modular 4.6L V8s, like in my
Mustang.  Turns out the two cams are driven by chains (good), but the chain 
tensioners are hydraulically activated and
if you use an incorrect oil or filter the tensioners might not work 
correctly on startup, and may break due to the chain
flopping around.  The owner's and shop manual call for Motorcraft 5W-20 oil 
and a Motorcraft filter with anti-drainback
valve.  If you use a higher-vis oil and/or a filter w/o the drainback valve 
the tensioners can break, and possibly throw
the valve timing off a tooth or two (hence his increased business). 
Fortunately, since I've followed the recommendation
(for once) since new, even though I thought at first that 5W-20 was 'too 
thin' and considered using up my stock of
10W-30.  Not saying other good 5W-20 oils and filters wouldn't work, but 
it's an expensive repair.  Oh yeah, I (almost)
always pre-fill the filer when changing.

Interestingly enough, my BJ8 and, I think, all 6-cyl Healeys have a 
hydraulic chain tensioner, which is made out of
steel and a hard rubber rubbing surface.  Apparently, a much more robust 
design (someone didn't tell the bean counters
at BMC).

Bob



On 8/27/2014 5:38 AM, Team.net wrote:
> Interesting.  I just had my engine rebuilt and was unable to develop any 
> oil pressure with the spin on.
>
> Had to revert to the canister.
>
> Larry
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 09:13:15 2014
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 15:13:41 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Ron Fine <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>
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Thread-Topic: spin on filters
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron, 

I think you're right. Was thinking it was a hydraulic tensioner, but now IIRC there is a spring in there and that is what applies tension (haven't had it apart in many years). Even so, I think the Healey tensioner is more robust because I think a constant pressure is sufficient; i.e. no need to apply more pressure with an increase in oil pressure (that seems counter-intuitive; maybe the 4.6 tensioner pressure is limited somehow). Still, the Healey's metal/rubber tensioner is more robust than the Ford's, which is made of plastic (the replacement tensioner appears to be beefed-up around the hole where breakage typically occurs). 

bob 

ps. cc'ing the List to clear up the mistake. 

-- 

Hi Bob, 

Did you mean to say that the 6-cyl Healeys do NOT have a hydraulic chain 
tensioner? 

The engine in my 61BN7 does not have a hydraulic chain tensioner. It 
operates using a steel spring that forces the rubber pad against the chain. 
There is a small oil passage through the center that allows some oil to flow 
to the friction surface but that is not providing any of the pressure for 
the tensioner. I don't know about the later engines. 

Ron Fine 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 10:46:03 2014
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 09:46:06 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spin on oil filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I use Napa 1191 size on my spin-on.  I believe this is a Wix.

 

Have picture comparing Wix with Fram elements:

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/150327833

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 11:57:37 2014
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 19:57:20 +0200
To: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Larry,
turn your spin on adaptor by 180 degrees and, voila you have oil pressure.
You have blocked one of the passages.

Josef Eckert
Germany


Interesting.  I just had my engine rebuilt and was unable to develop any oil
pressure with the spin on.

Had to revert to the canister.

Larry
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 13:52:57 2014
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 15:53:11 -0400
From: David Murphy <roadwarriordavem@gmail.com>
To: eyera3000@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healey] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira,
K&N's # is HP-2009 for their oil filter that fits the Moss spin on oil
filter adapter on my Healey BJ8 & my Triumph TR6.
Dave Murphy
-Dearborn MI
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 14:13:21 2014
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 16:13:39 -0400
From: JOHN BAHE SR <johnbahesr@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

NAPA Gold is # 1515..............it is a Wix product.  They have less
expensive filters made by Wix but I would stay with the Gold product
line.   More filter paper plus other advantages and not much more money.

John


On Tue, Aug 26, 2014 at 10:59 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks,
> Did not intend to get Fran,just needed a # to cross reference
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
> On Aug 26, 2014 7:57 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Fram#, IIRC, is PH3600.  Wix equivalent is 51516 (have that one
> memorized).
> >
> > The Wix is a vastly superior product (I have cut both open).
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > On 8/26/2014 7:33 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Moss spin on oil filter kit. I need a new filter. Any idea on a
> >> Fram or Wix #?
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> Ira Erbs
> >> Portland, OR
> >>     _______                                  _______
> >>       (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
> >>           (_________________________)
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> >> options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > --
> > *******************************************************************
> > Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
> >
> > *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
>


-- 
John A Bahe Sr.
Cell:  (502) 599-2696
johnbahesr@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 17:35:15 2014
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 19:35:12 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] rally gear shift knob with OD switch
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,

I assume that when fitting a gear shift knob with an OD switch that you 
have to run the wires from the new switch back to the old switch on the 
dash.  Otherwise, if you connected the new switch in front of the 
gearbox switch, you'd have to jumper the two leads at the old switch 
together to energize the relay to get power to the lead going to the OD. 
  The relay would be energized all the time; bypassing the relay and the 
throttle switch would give the same, but not necessarily desirable 
result. Right?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 18:31:40 2014
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>, healeys
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 00:31:59 +0000
References: <53FE6B30.8090004@earthlink.net>
 FILETIME=[7AEA9150:01CFC257]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] rally gear shift knob with OD switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The point of having the OD switch on the gear shift knob in the rallye or race
cars is because in competition you want quick gear changes. Competition cars
do not use the throttle kick down linkage. Competiton cars use the larger
piston and stronger springs in the OD. When flipping the switch, you either
use the clutch or lift off the loud pedal, depending on whether you are
shifting up or down.

> Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 19:35:12 -0400
> From: rchaskell@earthlink.net
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] rally gear shift knob with OD switch
>
> Listers,
>
> I assume that when fitting a gear shift knob with an OD switch that you
> have to run the wires from the new switch back to the old switch on the
> dash.  Otherwise, if you connected the new switch in front of the
> gearbox switch, you'd have to jumper the two leads at the old switch
> together to energize the relay to get power to the lead going to the OD.
>   The relay would be energized all the time; bypassing the relay and the
> throttle switch would give the same, but not necessarily desirable
> result. Right?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 20:20:29 2014
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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 19:20:39 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] BN2 'Packing Block'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,

There is an (apparently) wood 'packing block' in BN1/2 boots.  This is part# 52 in the illustration in the latest Moss 
catalog on page# 116 (N/A so no part# given).  This is the 'Rear Body Fittings 100-4' section if your catalog doesn't 
align, and apparently gets bolted to the inside of the right rear wheel well..

Anyone know what this is for?  In a 6-cyl car, this might be something to do with the spare tire, but that's mounted in 
its own slot in the 4-cyl cars.

TIA,
Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 22:51:58 2014
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References: <53FE91F7.5090506@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 21:52:03 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 'Packing Block'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

The wood block (#52) in the catalog on page #116 is the spacer block for
part #51 - STAY, trunk (boot) lid.  It is a bare wood block rectangular in
shape that the bottom of the stay attaches to with two 1/4" bolts.

Cheers,

Curt


On Wed, Aug 27, 2014 at 7:20 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> There is an (apparently) wood 'packing block' in BN1/2 boots.  This is
> part# 52 in the illustration in the latest Moss catalog on page# 116 (N/A
> so no part# given).  This is the 'Rear Body Fittings 100-4' section if your
> catalog doesn't align, and apparently gets bolted to the inside of the
> right rear wheel well..
>
> Anyone know what this is for?  In a 6-cyl car, this might be something to
> do with the spare tire, but that's mounted in its own slot in the 4-cyl
> cars.
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 27 22:57:47 2014
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 <CAJKrNeT7RZ2Xf5_vqUi8U8KJCZKSM+hmr_iGAJnGEhg+OE2QPg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 21:58:08 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 'Packing Block'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

There is another wooden block in the boot of the 100s.  It is a triangular
shaped block covered on matching interior vinyl and it's used as a wedge to
hold the spare tire in place.  It's held in place with sheet metal screws.

Curt


On Wed, Aug 27, 2014 at 9:52 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> The wood block (#52) in the catalog on page #116 is the spacer block for
> part #51 - STAY, trunk (boot) lid.  It is a bare wood block rectangular in
> shape that the bottom of the stay attaches to with two 1/4" bolts.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 27, 2014 at 7:20 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> There is an (apparently) wood 'packing block' in BN1/2 boots.  This is
>> part# 52 in the illustration in the latest Moss catalog on page# 116 (N/A
>> so no part# given).  This is the 'Rear Body Fittings 100-4' section if your
>> catalog doesn't align, and apparently gets bolted to the inside of the
>> right rear wheel well..
>>
>> Anyone know what this is for?  In a 6-cyl car, this might be something to
>> do with the spare tire, but that's mounted in its own slot in the 4-cyl
>> cars.
>>
>> TIA,
>> Bob
>>
>> --
>> *******************************************************************
>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>>
>> *******************************************************************
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 28 06:06:13 2014
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To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, healeylist
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:06:06 -0400
References: <53FE91F7.5090506@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 'Packing Block'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Bob,
In the right wheel well there is indeed a wedge shaped block which acts as a
stop for the spare.
It is vinyl covered and secured by 2 (early cars) and I understand 3 on later
cars countersunk screws visible inside the wheel well forward of the centre
line.
I have attached pics that I will be happy to forward to other listers upon
request..

Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
Sent: b8/b27/b2014 10:20 PM
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 'Packing Block'

Listers,

There is an (apparently) wood 'packing block' in BN1/2 boots.  This is part#
52 in the illustration in the latest Moss
catalog on page# 116 (N/A so no part# given).  This is the 'Rear Body Fittings
100-4' section if your catalog doesn't
align, and apparently gets bolted to the inside of the right rear wheel
well..

Anyone know what this is for?  In a 6-cyl car, this might be something to do
with the spare tire, but that's mounted in
its own slot in the 4-cyl cars.

TIA,
Bob

--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com

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 <B8296EAD-9016-4ACC-8EBB-05CDA7A72B22@gmail.com>
 FILETIME=[0220E000:01CFC32C]
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I saw an adapter that was mounted 180 degrees out once that did the same
thing. You need to make sure the position of the inlet port matches the supply
port on the engine.

Bill Lawrence

> From: lawrence.swift@gmail.com
> Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 08:38:17 -0400
> To: eyera3000@gmail.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] spin on filters
>
> Interesting.  I just had my engine rebuilt and was unable to develop any
oil
> pressure with the spin on.
>
> Had to revert to the canister.
>
> Larry
>
> > On Aug 26, 2014, at 10:59 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Did not intend to get Fran,just needed a # to cross reference
> >
> > Ira Erbs
> > Portland,OR
> > IT Educator and Consultant
> > sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
> >> On Aug 26, 2014 7:57 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> Fram#, IIRC, is PH3600.  Wix equivalent is 51516 (have that one
> memorized).
> >>
> >> The Wix is a vastly superior product (I have cut both open).
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 8/26/2014 7:33 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I have a Moss spin on oil filter kit. I need a new filter. Any idea on
a
> >>> Fram or Wix #?
> >>> Thanks
> >>>
> >>> Ira Erbs
> >>> Portland, OR
> >>>    _______                                  _______
> >>>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
> >>>          (_________________________)
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>>
> >>> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>>
> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> >>> options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >> --
> >> *******************************************************************
> >> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
> >>
> >> *******************************************************************
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 28 21:05:02 2014
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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 20:04:40 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 top frame
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone have a good to great top or hood Frame for a BT7 they can bring to
the Portland ABFM this Saturday?
I have no idea where mine is?
Either one to lend or sell.

Thanks
Hope to see many listers there.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 29 09:12:00 2014
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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com>, "Ahealey help"
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYrA+S5cWmizt09QdoVgXbOpOdxqprnzwXph+CNnvaMOHQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 08:12:07 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 top frame
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The BT7 top frames are very hard to find a good used one.  They are 
available new however the powder coating that is used on the frame is to 
thick and it will not fit in the top frame socket. So if you get a new frame 
you will have to hone out the socket and clean the material off the bottom 2 
inches of the frame.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: I Erbs
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2014 8:04 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 top frame

Anyone have a good to great top or hood Frame for a BT7 they can bring to
the Portland ABFM this Saturday?
I have no idea where mine is?
Either one to lend or sell.

Thanks
Hope to see many listers there.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 29 09:36:29 2014
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Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 08:36:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: Jensen Cars <jensen-cars@british-steel.org>,  healeys
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
 tests=NO_REAL_NAME
 breakdown below pts rule name              description ----
 ----------------------
 -------------------------------------------------- 0.00 NO_REAL_NAME  
 From: does not include a real name
Subject: [Healeys] JH period racing pictures status
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Unfortunately yesterday, I discovered that these pictures were collected from the Internet and not photographs taken by my acquaintance as I had been led to believe. I will send them out anyway.
Ken


> 
> I have just come across 12 pictures of Jensen Healeys in the pits in the 70's. The pictures were taken by an acquaintance. I recognize Laguna Seca at least.
> Both the Huffaker cars and Lind Brothers cars are there. Tell me if you want them electronically.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> 74 Interceptor
> _______________________________________________________________________
>   Courtesy the Jensen-cars mailing list. Subscribe and unsubscribe 
>    info at: <http://www.british-steel.org/faq/jensen-cars.html>.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 29 09:40:12 2014
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Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 11:40:32 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: John H <jhomonek@mindspring.com>
To: goldengt@cal.net, Jensen Cars <jensen-cars@british-steel.org>, 
 healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] JH period racing pictures status
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would like a set.

thanks,


John Homonek
1959 BN7
1974 Jensen-Healey
bn7@mindspring.com


-----Original Message-----
>From: goldengt@cal.net
>Sent: Aug 29, 2014 11:36 AM
>To: Jensen Cars <jensen-cars@british-steel.org>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] JH period racing pictures status
>
>Unfortunately yesterday, I discovered that these pictures were collected from the Internet and not photographs taken by my acquaintance as I had been led to believe. I will send them out anyway.
>Ken
>
>
>> 
>> I have just come across 12 pictures of Jensen Healeys in the pits in the 70's. The pictures were taken by an acquaintance. I recognize Laguna Seca at least.
>> Both the Huffaker cars and Lind Brothers cars are there. Tell me if you want them electronically.
>> Ken Freese
>> 65 BJ8
>> 74 Interceptor
>> _______________________________________________________________________
>>   Courtesy the Jensen-cars mailing list. Subscribe and unsubscribe 
>>    info at: <http://www.british-steel.org/faq/jensen-cars.html>.
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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References: <01FF10C3-AEAE-48F9-A579-44AB818E73F4@cs.com>
 <1943007473.16074.1409326602837.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 09:07:02 -0700
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "goldengt@cal.net" <goldengt@cal.net>, Jensen Cars
 <jensen-cars@british-steel.org>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] JH period racing pictures status
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Good Day Ken.  I would also like a set of the Jensen Healey racing photos.  Thank you for your efforts.

 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada       - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives


On Friday, August 29, 2014 11:37:23 AM, "goldengt@cal.net" <goldengt@cal.net> wrote:
 


Unfortunately yesterday, I discovered that these pictures were collected from the Internet and not photographs taken by my acquaintance as I had been led to believe. I will send them out anyway.
Ken


> 
> I have just come across 12 pictures of Jensen Healeys in the pits in the 70's. The pictures were taken by an acquaintance. I recognize Laguna Seca at least.
> Both the Huffaker cars and Lind Brothers cars are there. Tell me if you want them electronically.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> 74 Interceptor
> _______________________________________________________________________
>   Courtesy the Jensen-cars mailing list. Subscribe and unsubscribe 
>    info at: <http://www.british-steel.org/faq/jensen-cars.html>.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 29 11:07:00 2014
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To: 4 - Healeys <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A new alternator that looks like and replaces the dynamo. It also has a 
huge (all things are relative) increase in power output.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=311066377185&ssPageName=ADME:B:FSEL:GB:1123

No ties, financial or otherwise etc.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 15:02:12 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Oil vent
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have bj8 carbs and manifold on my bt7. Can I run the oil vent hose into
the vacuum nipple on the intake? I do not have the nipple on my k&n air
filters. I bought a cool looking vent breather filter, but I don't like the
smell of oil vapor.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 29 16:16:02 2014
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Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 22:16:28 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil vent
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re: "Can I run the oil vent hose into the vacuum nipple on the intake?" 

Only if you want a massive intake/vacuum leak. You need to put a PCV valve in the line to the manifold, and for best results seal off the dipstick tube and the small hole in the oil filler cap. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



I have bj8 carbs and manifold on my bt7. Can I run the oil vent hose into 
the vacuum nipple on the intake? I do not have the nipple on my k&n air 
filters. I bought a cool looking vent breather filter, but I don't like the 
smell of oil vapor. 

Ira Erbs 
Portland,OR 
IT Educator and Consultant 
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 00:30:11 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CACPMnYp86BHpU+=kBJTDCeKvX7+vhe9itNW_aUdVBDfOas4GTw@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil vent
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You should not connect it up to a vacuum nipple on the inlet manifold, 
to high a vacuum. It is ever so simple to fit a nipple to the K&N filter.
Kees Oudesluijs


I Erbs schreef op 30-8-2014 0:02:
> I have bj8 carbs and manifold on my bt7. Can I run the oil vent hose into
> the vacuum nipple on the intake? I do not have the nipple on my k&n air
> filters. I bought a cool looking vent breather filter, but I don't like the
> smell of oil vapor.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4015/8122 - datum van uitgifte: 08/29/14
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 02:36:47 2014
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Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 09:37:00 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil vent
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Or you could install a catch tank and then you don't have all that dirty
stuff going back into your carbs.

Derek


On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 11:02 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have bj8 carbs and manifold on my bt7. Can I run the oil vent hose into
> the vacuum nipple on the intake? I do not have the nipple on my k&n air
> filters. I bought a cool looking vent breather filter, but I don't like the
> smell of oil vapor.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 04:41:49 2014
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Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 12:41:52 +0200
To: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] Ahealey help
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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You mean Pampers for old, worn out engines?

Josef Eckert



Or you could install a catch tank and then you don't have all that dirty
stuff going back into your carbs.

Derek


On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 11:02 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have bj8 carbs and manifold on my bt7. Can I run the oil vent hose into
> the vacuum nipple on the intake? I do not have the nipple on my k&n air
> filters. I bought a cool looking vent breather filter, but I don't like the
> smell of oil vapor.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 07:14:41 2014
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Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 15:14:45 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: 4 - Healeys <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <54018380.2080802@chello.nl>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The ad lists a more or less automated listing. If the alternator fits 
Triumph, MG, Morris/Austin Mini and many other UK cars it will also fit 
a neg. earth equipped AH big or small. There is nothing special about 
the dynamo fitted to an AH.
Kees Oudesluijs NL


DAVID WITTMER schreef op 30-8-2014 2:36: > It says that it doesn't fit 
an Austin Healey! > > Sent from my iPhone DRW > > >> On Aug 29, 2014, at 
1:07 PM, "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: >> >> A new 
alternator that looks like and replaces the dynamo. It also has a huge 
(all things are relative) increase in power output. >> >> 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=311066377185&ssPageName=ADME:B:FSEL:GB:1123 
 >> >> No ties, financial or otherwise etc. >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL 
 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: 
http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drwit@hotmail.com >> > > 
----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - 
www.avg.com > Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4015/8122 - datum van 
uitgifte: 08/29/14 > > >
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 08:48:37 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 07:48:50 -0700
Cc: 4 - Healeys <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <54018380.2080802@chello.nl> <l1FM1o02S0NyJgq011FPjh>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The problem with the Healey and the alternator kits the mounting for the
alternator.


On Aug 30, 2014, at 6:14 AM, Oudesluys wrote:

> The ad lists a more or less automated listing. If the alternator fits
Triumph, MG, Morris/Austin Mini and many other UK cars it will also fit a neg.
earth equipped AH big or small. There is nothing special about the dynamo
fitted to an AH.
> Kees Oudesluijs NL
>
>
> DAVID WITTMER schreef op 30-8-2014 2:36: > It says that it doesn't fit an
Austin Healey! > > Sent from my iPhone DRW > > >> On Aug 29, 2014, at 1:07 PM,
"Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: >> >> A new alternator that looks
like and replaces the dynamo. It also has a huge (all things are relative)
increase in power output. >> >>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=311066377185&ssPageName=
ADME:B:FSEL:GB:1123 >> >> No ties, financial or otherwise etc. >> >> Kees
Oudesluijs >> NL >> _______________________________________________ >> Support
Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >> Healeys@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drwit@hotmail.com >> > > ----- >
Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com >
Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4015/8122 - datum van uitgifte: 08/29/14
> > >
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 09:27:23 2014
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Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 17:27:37 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <54018380.2080802@chello.nl> <l1FM1o02S0NyJgq011FPjh>
 <A6865C74-2716-4FB6-80B1-251D103CE6DB@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

These special alternators have the appearance and external dimensions of 
the original dynamo. All you may need is some longer bolts and spacer 
rings to line up the pulley with the crankshaft and water pump pulleys.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL




Wilko2 schreef op 30-8-2014 16:48:
> The problem with the Healey and the alternator kits the mounting for the
> alternator.
>
>
> On Aug 30, 2014, at 6:14 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
>
>> The ad lists a more or less automated listing. If the alternator fits
> Triumph, MG, Morris/Austin Mini and many other UK cars it will also fit a neg.
> earth equipped AH big or small. There is nothing special about the dynamo
> fitted to an AH.
>> Kees Oudesluijs NL
>>
>>
>> DAVID WITTMER schreef op 30-8-2014 2:36: > It says that it doesn't fit an
> Austin Healey! > > Sent from my iPhone DRW > > >> On Aug 29, 2014, at 1:07 PM,
> "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: >> >> A new alternator that looks
> like and replaces the dynamo. It also has a huge (all things are relative)
> increase in power output. >> >>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=311066377185&ssPageName=
> ADME:B:FSEL:GB:1123 >> >> No ties, financial or otherwise etc. >> >> Kees
> Oudesluijs >> NL >> _______________________________________________ >> Support
> Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Healeys@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drwit@hotmail.com >> > > ----- >
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com >
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4015/8122 - datum van uitgifte: 08/29/14
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4015/8125 - datum van uitgifte: 08/29/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 11:15:41 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <54018380.2080802@chello.nl> <l1FM1o02S0NyJgq011FPjh>
 <A6865C74-2716-4FB6-80B1-251D103CE6DB@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 18:14:53 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac/EYZ9EeGomYQ/5QpCgBH+FePn7xwAEpoMw
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought a Lucas 17ACR for #17:50 on eBay. I also bought a rebuild kit and,
effectively, had myself a a new alternator. No, it doesn't look much like a
generator, but no....it does look/is fairly "period" in its appearance.
Fitting it was painstaking but simple. It puts out +/- 40 amps. I'd say that
the most demanding aspect was relocating the coil.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wilko2
Sent: 30 August 2014 15:49
Cc: 4 - Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: dynamo alternator conversion

The problem with the Healey and the alternator kits the mounting for the
alternator.


On Aug 30, 2014, at 6:14 AM, Oudesluys wrote:

> The ad lists a more or less automated listing. If the alternator fits
Triumph, MG, Morris/Austin Mini and many other UK cars it will also fit a
neg.
earth equipped AH big or small. There is nothing special about the dynamo
fitted to an AH.
> Kees Oudesluijs NL
>
>
> DAVID WITTMER schreef op 30-8-2014 2:36: > It says that it doesn't fit
> an
Austin Healey! > > Sent from my iPhone DRW > > >> On Aug 29, 2014, at 1:07
PM, "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: >> >> A new alternator that
looks like and replaces the dynamo. It also has a huge (all things are
relative) increase in power output. >> >>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=311066377185&ssPageName
=
ADME:B:FSEL:GB:1123 >> >> No ties, financial or otherwise etc. >> >> Kees
Oudesluijs >> NL >> _______________________________________________ >>
donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:
>> http://www.team.net/forums
>> >> Healeys@autox.team.net >>
>> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drwit@hotmail.com >> > > -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>
Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4015/8122 - datum van uitgifte:
08/29/14
> > >
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 11:27:32 2014
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Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 19:27:49 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <54018380.2080802@chello.nl> <l1FM1o02S0NyJgq011FPjh>
 <A6865C74-2716-4FB6-80B1-251D103CE6DB@cox.net>
 <000001cfc475$eb2a9d50$c17fd7f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The Lucas 15ACR and 17ACR were the norm more or less in the 70's and 
were used even after that. The 17ACR is rated 36Amps. You can buy NOS 
17ACR's or new replacements (100 something) for less than GBP50. Very 
easy to service and plenty of parts available. The AC-Delco equivalent 
(as on many 70's Vauxhalls) seems to be more reliable. Harder to find an 
more expensive.
However these are not the generator look-a-like alternators we are 
talking about.

Kees Oudesluijs



Simon Lachlan schreef op 30-8-2014 19:14:
> I bought a Lucas 17ACR for #17:50 on eBay. I also bought a rebuild kit and,
> effectively, had myself a a new alternator. No, it doesn't look much like a
> generator, but no....it does look/is fairly "period" in its appearance.
> Fitting it was painstaking but simple. It puts out +/- 40 amps. I'd say that
> the most demanding aspect was relocating the coil.
> Simon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wilko2
> Sent: 30 August 2014 15:49
> Cc: 4 - Healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: dynamo alternator conversion
>
> The problem with the Healey and the alternator kits the mounting for the
> alternator.
>
>
> On Aug 30, 2014, at 6:14 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
>
>> The ad lists a more or less automated listing. If the alternator fits
> Triumph, MG, Morris/Austin Mini and many other UK cars it will also fit a
> neg.
> earth equipped AH big or small. There is nothing special about the dynamo
> fitted to an AH.
>> Kees Oudesluijs NL
>>
>>
>> DAVID WITTMER schreef op 30-8-2014 2:36: > It says that it doesn't fit
>> an
> Austin Healey! > > Sent from my iPhone DRW > > >> On Aug 29, 2014, at 1:07
> PM, "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: >> >> A new alternator that
> looks like and replaces the dynamo. It also has a huge (all things are
> relative) increase in power output. >> >>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=311066377185&ssPageName
> =
> ADME:B:FSEL:GB:1123 >> >> No ties, financial or otherwise etc. >> >> Kees
> Oudesluijs >> NL >> _______________________________________________ >>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual
> donation $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:
>>> http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Healeys@autox.team.net >>
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drwit@hotmail.com >> > > -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>>
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4015/8122 - datum van uitgifte:
> 08/29/14
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
>> donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4745 / Virusdatabase: 4015/8127 - datum van uitgifte: 08/30/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "teamhealeytexas" <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 22:12:39 -0500
 {sentby:smtp auth 173.71.51.26 authed with
 fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com}
Subject: [Healeys] Brass cupped freeze plugs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Prepping my BT7 3000 for an upcoming race. No problems with the car, just
tightening all the loose nuts and bolts that always seem to become a bit loose
after a weekend's racing, changed the engine and transmission oil, and
generally cleaned things up. Finished everything, engine started right up.
While warming everything up I always take a look underneath, the car. Rats!
Water was dripping from the block. Two freeze plugs had corroded through. This
never happens prior to me prior to pulling the engine.

This of course meant removing all three webers, and the exhaust pipes.
Fortunately the culprit plugs were on the port side of the engine and were
relatively easy to get at. As a side note, with a race engine the racing rules
prohibits anti-freeze. No anti-freeze, no corrosion protection. Of course
steel freeze plugs are pretty easy to come by. However these plugs only seem
to last about 3 years for me, and I really wanted to use cupped brass plugs.
Couldn't find any through the regular Healey suppliers. However, I did find
the correct brass plugs for the 6 cylinder engine from other sources.

There are two sizes required for the 6 cylinder engines, 1 5/16" and 1 5/8".

I found the 1 5/8" brass cupped plugs at advancedautoparts.com.
  The part description is: Dorman - Pik-a-Nut Brass Cup Expansion Plug 1-5/8
In., Height 0.460 Part No 333082.1
I found the 1 5/16" brass cupped plugs at Class Motoring in Australia
www.classicmotoring.net.au
  These plugs (called Welch Plugs where folks drive on the wrong side of the
road) suit Mini 1275 (later).
  On their web site, do a search for:  Welch Plug - 1 5/16" Cup Type (Brass).
  When I checked their web-site today 8-30-2014, they show this part as sold
out (?). I donbt know if these plugs are sold domestically (USA). May be
worth while doing some investigation if you canbt get them from these
folks.
Once I had changed out the freeze/frost/core/welch plug (to suit everyonebs
style of english), replaced the engine oil, transmission fluid, differential
fluid, brake fluid, engine coolant, human coolant, and started the engine up,
I ran into a very serious problem that has me sorely vexed (highly miffed)!
Nothing leaked b except me! Ibm not sure how to fix this problem. Ibve
never had this occur in the past. Ibve read the manuals thoroughly, have 30
years experience with this car, conducted additional research on the internet.
My understanding of the correct operation has been verified b these engines
are supposed to leak b itbs not natural not to leak! Maybe Ibll have to
drill some small, unobtrusive drain holes to fix the problem.

Yball take care, ek?

Fred Crowley
Team Healey Texas
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 21:16:14 2014
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Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 21:00:59 +0200
To: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Kees,
These alternators in the body of a generator are of very questionable quality and the output is far below what they promise. When you get 30 amps out of these alternators you are lucky. I know that, because I have tested them. Its my job. We have lots of troubles, as the company I am working for is a seller of these products.

Josef Eckert 
Germany


These special alternators have the appearance and external dimensions of
the original dynamo. All you may need is some longer bolts and spacer
rings to line up the pulley with the crankshaft and water pump pulleys.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 21:44:57 2014
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References: <25A8FC214FC8477EB2EE7159201CD546@FredsQuadLaptop>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 20:47:13 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: teamhealeytexas <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass cupped freeze plugs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Lolz. Enjoy the racing season and keep the shiny side up

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
On Aug 30, 2014 8:12 PM, "teamhealeytexas" <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com>
wrote:

> Prepping my BT7 3000 for an upcoming race. No problems with the car, just
> tightening all the loose nuts and bolts that always seem to become a bit
> loose
> after a weekend's racing, changed the engine and transmission oil, and
> generally cleaned things up. Finished everything, engine started right up.
> While warming everything up I always take a look underneath, the car. Rats!
> Water was dripping from the block. Two freeze plugs had corroded through.
> This
> never happens prior to me prior to pulling the engine.
>
> This of course meant removing all three webers, and the exhaust pipes.
> Fortunately the culprit plugs were on the port side of the engine and were
> relatively easy to get at. As a side note, with a race engine the racing
> rules
> prohibits anti-freeze. No anti-freeze, no corrosion protection. Of course
> steel freeze plugs are pretty easy to come by. However these plugs only
> seem
> to last about 3 years for me, and I really wanted to use cupped brass
> plugs.
> Couldn't find any through the regular Healey suppliers. However, I did find
> the correct brass plugs for the 6 cylinder engine from other sources.
>
> There are two sizes required for the 6 cylinder engines, 1 5/16" and 1
> 5/8".
>
> I found the 1 5/8" brass cupped plugs at advancedautoparts.com.
>   The part description is: Dorman - Pik-a-Nut Brass Cup Expansion Plug
> 1-5/8
> In., Height 0.460 Part No 333082.1
> I found the 1 5/16" brass cupped plugs at Class Motoring in Australia
> www.classicmotoring.net.au
>   These plugs (called Welch Plugs where folks drive on the wrong side of
> the
> road) suit Mini 1275 (later).
>   On their web site, do a search for:  Welch Plug - 1 5/16" Cup Type
> (Brass).
>   When I checked their web-site today 8-30-2014, they show this part as
> sold
> out (?). I donb t know if these plugs are sold domestically (USA). May be
> worth while doing some investigation if you canb t get them from these
> folks.
> Once I had changed out the freeze/frost/core/welch plug (to suit everyoneb
> s
> style of english), replaced the engine oil, transmission fluid,
> differential
> fluid, brake fluid, engine coolant, human coolant, and started the engine
> up,
> I ran into a very serious problem that has me sorely vexed (highly miffed)!
> Nothing leaked b  except me! Ib m not sure how to fix this problem. Ib ve
> never had this occur in the past. Ib ve read the manuals thoroughly, have
> 30
> years experience with this car, conducted additional research on the
> internet.
> My understanding of the correct operation has been verified b  these
> engines
> are supposed to leak b  itb s not natural not to leak! Maybe Ib ll have to
> drill some small, unobtrusive drain holes to fix the problem.
>
> Yb all take care, ek?
>
> Fred Crowley
> Team Healey Texas
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 21:57:21 2014
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 20:59:05 -0700
References: <25A8FC214FC8477EB2EE7159201CD546@FredsQuadLaptop>
To: teamhealeytexas <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass cupped freeze plugs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I was fine till I got to this.
Does anyone have an English translation of the text below?
I'm baffled.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 30, 2014, at 20:12, "teamhealeytexas"
<fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com> wrote:
>
> I ran into a very serious problem that has me sorely vexed (highly miffed)!
> Nothing leaked b except me! Ibm not sure how to fix this problem. Ibve
> never had this occur in the past. Ibve read the manuals thoroughly, have
30
> years experience with this car, conducted additional research on the
internet.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 30 22:02:30 2014
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To: josef-eckert@t-online.de
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 21:03:38 -0700
From: <rd_parker@juno.com>
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Probably made in China as usual.

Bob.
Bellflower, CA. 
On Sat, 30 Aug 2014 21:00:59 +0200 "josef-eckert@t-online.de"
<josef-eckert@t-online.de> writes:
> Kees,
> These alternators in the body of a generator are of very 
> questionable quality and the output is far below what they promise. 
> When you get 30 amps out of these alternators you are lucky. I know 
> that, because I have tested them. Its my job. We have lots of 
> troubles, as the company I am working for is a seller of these 
> products.
> 
> Josef Eckert 
> Germany
> 
> 
> These special alternators have the appearance and external 
> dimensions of
> the original dynamo. All you may need is some longer bolts and 
> spacer
> rings to line up the pulley with the crankshaft and water pump 
> pulleys.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker@juno.com
> 
> 
 

____________________________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 01:03:15 2014
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Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 09:05:19 +0200
To: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

No, made in the UK, internals are Korean or Japanese

Josef Eckert


Probably made in China as usual.

Bob.
Bellflower, CA.
On Sat, 30 Aug 2014 21:00:59 +0200 "josef-eckert@t-online.de"
<josef-eckert@t-online.de> writes:
> Kees,
> These alternators in the body of a generator are of very
> questionable quality and the output is far below what they promise.
> When you get 30 amps out of these alternators you are lucky. I know
> that, because I have tested them. Its my job. We have lots of
> troubles, as the company I am working for is a seller of these
> products.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Germany
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 01:24:07 2014
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Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 09:26:18 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <AABLAFHYUAM5QMXJ@smtpout03.vgs.untd.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Made in China, Taiwan, India, Indonesia, Vietnam, Turkey or whatever 
does not necessarily mean that it is rubbish. Depend on the 
specifications of the organisation that has them manufactured. I  am 
aware that there were some problems with the first generation of these 
devises. This one seams to be a new brand. I presume things can have 
improved.
Apparently according to your experiences results are not consistent as I 
also know of people doing a lot of km's that are happy with them.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


rd_parker@juno.com schreef op 31-8-2014 6:03:
> Probably made in China as usual.
>
> Bob.
> Bellflower, CA.
> On Sat, 30 Aug 2014 21:00:59 +0200 "josef-eckert@t-online.de"
> <josef-eckert@t-online.de> writes:
>> Kees,
>> These alternators in the body of a generator are of very
>> questionable quality and the output is far below what they promise.
>> When you get 30 amps out of these alternators you are lucky. I know
>> that, because I have tested them. Its my job. We have lots of
>> troubles, as the company I am working for is a seller of these
>> products.
>>
>> Josef Eckert
>> Germany
>>
>>
>> These special alternators have the appearance and external
>> dimensions of
>> the original dynamo. All you may need is some longer bolts and
>> spacer
>> rings to line up the pulley with the crankshaft and water pump
>> pulleys.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker@juno.com
>>
>>
>   
>
> ____________________________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 01:37:35 2014
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References: <1XNzCR-1RRqMa0@fwd06.aul.t-online.de>
From: Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 08:39:53 +0100
To: "Healeys, Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Of course, much like starter motors, Dynamos are excellent devices with robust
engineering and can be made to give pretty good output.  The big issue with
them however is the 'Heath Robinson' regulator which will at some point
malfunction and destroy the dynamo.
What is really needed is a good quality solid state regulator conversion that
will maximise the dynamo output and, if it should fail, do so safely.
That would have been (IMO) a better investment than a Korean alternator
machined to fit inside a dynamo shell.
Too often the vendor motivation appears to be to produce a gadget that will
have sales appeal, rather than identify and produce a true solution to a
problem. The high ratio starters are an example of that thinking, being a
solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.

BlueHealey Alan - from my iPad

> On 31 Aug 2014, at 08:05, "josef-eckert@t-online.de"
<josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:
>
> No, made in the UK, internals are Korean or Japanese
>
> Josef Eckert
>
>
> Probably made in China as usual.
>
> Bob.
> Bellflower, CA.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 02:45:31 2014
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To: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 I can only say the regulators originally used for our Austin-Healeys, the RB 106 and RB 340, are bullet proove and there is no issue at all with them. I am an electronic engineer, but I do not think at all to switch on one of my 5 classic cars to a solid state one. Generator output of the C45, C42 and C40 generators are also more than sufficient for me and I also see no point to change to a more powerful unit.
A generator, which did work for more than 25 years deserves a good overhaul and all is fine for the next 25 years. A RB 106 and RB 340 which fails I replace with a substitute, but I check and adjust them before I fit them. No issues, even with the new ones coming from China.
The company I am working for sells a lot of these and I can only say we have no issues.
PS: My personal opinion: Changinng to an alternator or modern replacements is for those who have enough time to solve problems they create with the mod. 

Josef Eckert
Germany

Of course, much like starter motors, Dynamos are excellent devices with robust engineering and can be made to give pretty good output.  The big issue with them however is the 'Heath Robinson' regulator which will at some point malfunction and destroy the dynamo.
What is really needed is a good quality solid state regulator conversion that will maximise the dynamo output and, if it should fail, do so safely.
That would have been (IMO) a better investment than a Korean alternator machined to fit inside a dynamo shell.
Too often the vendor motivation appears to be to produce a gadget that will have sales appeal, rather than identify and produce a true solution to a problem. The high ratio starters are an example of that thinking, being a solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.

BlueHealey Alan - from my iPad
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 08:22:12 2014
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From: "Bluehealey" <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: <josef-eckert@t-online.de>, "'Healeys,  Forum'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1XO0nS-0ls9uC0@fwd19.aul.t-online.de>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:24:14 +0100
Thread-Index: AQJU3XnjfgTL5OS0xDrKA6XZgcX4OJrgkkjQ
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Josef
Your experience with regulators is much better than mine and many of my
friends in the Classic Car game.
I have nothing against modifying and upgrading our cars. However this
particular device (Dynamo/Alternator) appears to target those for whom
originality is important. The result is failure of both objectives; A fake
dynamo that isn't original and an alternator that isn't as good as a period
Lucas one.

To each their own.
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (______\__1957-BN4__1959-AN5__/______)
                       (_____BlueHealey.com______)

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
josef-eckert@t-online.de
Sent: 31 August 2014 09:48
To: Healeys, Forum
Subject: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion

 I can only say the regulators originally used for our Austin-Healeys, the
RB 106 and RB 340, are bullet proove and there is no issue at all with them.
I am an electronic engineer, but I do not think at all to switch on one of
my 5 classic cars to a solid state one. Generator output of the C45, C42 and
C40 generators are also more than sufficient for me and I also see no point
to change to a more powerful unit.
A generator, which did work for more than 25 years deserves a good overhaul
and all is fine for the next 25 years. A RB 106 and RB 340 which fails I
replace with a substitute, but I check and adjust them before I fit them. No
issues, even with the new ones coming from China.
The company I am working for sells a lot of these and I can only say we have
no issues.
PS: My personal opinion: Changinng to an alternator or modern replacements
is for those who have enough time to solve problems they create with the
mod. 

Josef Eckert
Germany

Of course, much like starter motors, Dynamos are excellent devices with
robust engineering and can be made to give pretty good output.  The big
issue with them however is the 'Heath Robinson' regulator which will at some
point malfunction and destroy the dynamo.
What is really needed is a good quality solid state regulator conversion
that will maximise the dynamo output and, if it should fail, do so safely.
That would have been (IMO) a better investment than a Korean alternator
machined to fit inside a dynamo shell.
Too often the vendor motivation appears to be to produce a gadget that will
have sales appeal, rather than identify and produce a true solution to a
problem. The high ratio starters are an example of that thinking, being a
solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.

BlueHealey Alan - from my iPad
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 08:42:05 2014
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From: Ulla & Sven Ordell <bispmotala@hotmail.com>
To: "'Bluehealey'" <bluehealey@gmail.com>, <josef-eckert@t-online.de>,
 "'Healeys,  Forum'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1XO0nS-0ls9uC0@fwd19.aul.t-online.de>
 <005d01cfc527$3ed29be0$bc77d3a0$@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 16:44:38 +0200
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Content-Language: sv
 FILETIME=[0E6804B0:01CFC52A]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi
If you want both original and an alternator such an animal was available
from BMC in the mk 3 period as an optional fitting on the Austin Healey and
also fitted to certain 1800s. This was positive earth. So go chase one.

Regards
Sven
Sweden

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Fvr Bluehealey
Skickat: den 31 augusti 2014 16:24
Till: josef-eckert@t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum'
Dmne: Re: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion

Hi Josef
Your experience with regulators is much better than mine and many of my
friends in the Classic Car game.
I have nothing against modifying and upgrading our cars. However this
particular device (Dynamo/Alternator) appears to target those for whom
originality is important. The result is failure of both objectives; A fake
dynamo that isn't original and an alternator that isn't as good as a period
Lucas one.

To each their own.
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (______\__1957-BN4__1959-AN5__/______)
                       (_____BlueHealey.com______)

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
josef-eckert@t-online.de
Sent: 31 August 2014 09:48
To: Healeys, Forum
Subject: [Healeys] dynamo alternator conversion

 I can only say the regulators originally used for our Austin-Healeys, the
RB 106 and RB 340, are bullet proove and there is no issue at all with them.
I am an electronic engineer, but I do not think at all to switch on one of
my 5 classic cars to a solid state one. Generator output of the C45, C42 and
C40 generators are also more than sufficient for me and I also see no point
to change to a more powerful unit.
A generator, which did work for more than 25 years deserves a good overhaul
and all is fine for the next 25 years. A RB 106 and RB 340 which fails I
replace with a substitute, but I check and adjust them before I fit them. No
issues, even with the new ones coming from China.
The company I am working for sells a lot of these and I can only say we have
no issues.
PS: My personal opinion: Changinng to an alternator or modern replacements
is for those who have enough time to solve problems they create with the
mod.

Josef Eckert
Germany

Of course, much like starter motors, Dynamos are excellent devices with
robust engineering and can be made to give pretty good output.  The big
issue with them however is the 'Heath Robinson' regulator which will at some
point malfunction and destroy the dynamo.
What is really needed is a good quality solid state regulator conversion
that will maximise the dynamo output and, if it should fail, do so safely.
That would have been (IMO) a better investment than a Korean alternator
machined to fit inside a dynamo shell.
Too often the vendor motivation appears to be to produce a gadget that will
have sales appeal, rather than identify and produce a true solution to a
problem. The high ratio starters are an example of that thinking, being a
solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.

BlueHealey Alan - from my iPad
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey@gmail.com
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bispmotala@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 09:15:11 2014
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References: <25A8FC214FC8477EB2EE7159201CD546@FredsQuadLaptop>
 <B80EE9AF-0FCB-4098-BBF2-AB57259D5A3B@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 08:16:18 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass cupped freeze plugs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sarcasm. Car no longer leaks, driver does. Wants to research how to get car
to leak again, like all proper lbc. At least that's my take on it.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
On Aug 30, 2014 8:59 PM, "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com> wrote:

> I was fine till I got to this.
> Does anyone have an English translation of the text below?
> I'm baffled.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 30, 2014, at 20:12, "teamhealeytexas"
> <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com> wrote:
> >
> > I ran into a very serious problem that has me sorely vexed (highly
> miffed)!
> > Nothing leaked b  except me! Ib m not sure how to fix this problem. Ib ve
> > never had this occur in the past. Ib ve read the manuals thoroughly, have
> 30
> > years experience with this car, conducted additional research on the
> internet.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 10:59:01 2014
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From: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 13:01:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] heat from the heater
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds stupid butbthe heater box gets quite hot and radiates heat that is
not pleasant.

It doesnbt matter how I turn the heater tap (supposedly controls flow of hot
water to the heater) I still get a hot box.

So should I replace the heater tap or in the summer just install a new heater
hose that bypasses the heater itself?
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From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Dr. C. Rubino'" <ruvino@ripnet.com>, "'healeylist'"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <E6ADD275660742EABDD4FC4464B67A10@HPp6520f>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 11:00:18 -0700
Thread-Index: AQHMksa/I9GFuVNJ+eBQnw5AbU7SbpvxZPEw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heat from the heater
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe hot water makes its way to the core from the copper pipe on the
carb side of the engine. You might be able to install a tap to cut off that
route.

John
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 14:18:03 2014
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Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 16:20:13 -0400
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heat from the heater
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Dr.,

I simply installed a bypass hose from the heater tap to the copper pipe.
No more heat.

Leave the original pipes in place and don't forget to return to the
original setup when needed.

Fred
63 BJ7


On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 1:01 PM, Dr. C. Rubino <ruvino@ripnet.com> wrote:

> Sounds stupid butb the heater box gets quite hot and radiates heat that is
> not pleasant.
>
> It doesnb t matter how I turn the heater tap (supposedly controls flow of
> hot
> water to the heater) I still get a hot box.
>
> So should I replace the heater tap or in the summer just install a new
> heater
> hose that bypasses the heater itself?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 14:29:26 2014
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Fred Wescoe'" <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
References: <E6ADD275660742EABDD4FC4464B67A10@HPp6520f>
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Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heat from the heater
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Do you have a photo that I can post on my site?

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Wescoe
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2014 4:20 PM
To: Dr. C. Rubino
Cc: healeylist
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heat from the heater

Dr.,

I simply installed a bypass hose from the heater tap to the copper pipe.
No more heat.

Leave the original pipes in place and don't forget to return to the original
setup when needed.

Fred
63 BJ7


On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 1:01 PM, Dr. C. Rubino <ruvino@ripnet.com> wrote:

> Sounds stupid butb the heater box gets quite hot and radiates heat 
> that is not pleasant.
>
> It doesnb t matter how I turn the heater tap (supposedly controls flow 
> of hot water to the heater) I still get a hot box.
>
> So should I replace the heater tap or in the summer just install a new 
> heater hose that bypasses the heater itself?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe@gmail.com
$12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 14:47:22 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 16:49:40 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: [Healeys] How tight make poly bushings in lower a-arms?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I also posted this on the British Car Forum




Yes I know most say stay with
rubber on the front lower a-arms but I have the poly ones and are going with
them for now.

I have done all the searches on the subject and cannot find
this question answered definitively.

How tight do you tighten the fulcrum
pin?

When using the original rubber bushings with the metal inner sleeve
insert (assuming they are the right size) you tighten the special fulcrum pins
until the special fulcrum washer bottoms into their respective slots on the
frame brackets. This should also coincide with the two rubber bushings mating
each other in the center of the a-arm. At this point the nut should be tight.
With poly bushing there is no center steel sleeve. So one could keep
tightening the nut squeezing the two frame brackets together even more as now
there is nothing to stop from doing this until you hit the shoulder of the
fulcrum pin. Also this would continue to squeeze the flange lips of the
bushings into possible deformation.

So when does one stop tightening? I did
read that when using the poly bushings the trick is to not over tighten them.
Can I assume that the correct tightness is when the special washer is seated
into its slot and then just snug the nut and install cotter pin? Or does one
need to tighten until the washers bottoms on the shoulder of the fulcrum pin.
I tested this on the bench and that is really tight.

Am I missing something
here in my analysis?



Thanks....Help!

jjs64bj8
Jeff
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 31 15:07:40 2014
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From: Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 23:10:01 +0200
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>,  "'Dr. C. Rubino'"
 <ruvino@ripnet.com>, 'healeylist' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heat from the heater
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi
Hot water enters the heater from the other side, there is a tap on the right
side of the cylinder head. Turn it 90 degrees to turn off the heat

Per

----- Ursprungligt meddelande -----
Fren: John Spaur
Skickat: 2014-08-31 20:00
Till: 'Dr. C. Rubino'; 'healeylist'
Dmne: Re: [Healeys] heat from the heater

I believe hot water makes its way to the core from the copper pipe on the
carb side of the engine. You might be able to install a tap to cut off that
route.

John
'62 BT7
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per@schoerner.se
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