Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Leaks

From: John and Judy Carter <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 14:10:33 -0400

--===============7057727725365364652==
	boundary="_71e7c5d0-d4be-49ba-9273-fa0ebaa0fa91_"

--_71e7c5d0-d4be-49ba-9273-fa0ebaa0fa91_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Years ago I cured my steering box leak by adding a product by Bardahl calle=
d "No Smoke". It is extremely thick oil. I have not added any additional oi=
l since then.

> From: [email-masked]
> Subject: Healeys Digest=2C Vol 8=2C Issue 170
> To: [email-masked]
> Date: Tue=2C 16 Jun 2015 12:00:03 -0600
>=20
> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
> 	[email-masked]
>=20
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web=2C visit
> 	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or=2C via email=2C send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 	[email-masked]
>=20
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 	[email-masked]
>=20
> When replying=2C please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
>=20
>=20
> Today's Topics:
>=20
>    1. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Michael Salter)
>    2. BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Michael Salter)
>    3. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Derek Job)
>    4. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Oudesluys)
>    5. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Michael)
>    6. Recommendation on sale (Kimo Briske)
>    7. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Bob Haskell)
>    8. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Alan Seigrist)
>    9. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (M James)
>   10. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Michael)
>   11. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Auto Farm)
>   12. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Michael)
>   13. Re: Driving 100 (Mark Donaldson)
>   14. Re: Driving 100 (Bob Spidell)
>   15. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Rfbegani)
>   16. Re: Recommendation on sale (George)
>   17. Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Tom Felts)
>   18. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Michael Salter)
>   19. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Derek Job)
>   20. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Michael)
>   21. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Derek Job)
>   22. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Tim Davis BN7)
>=20
>=20
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 14:13:03 -0400
> From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
> To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAB3i7LLJ-7QBw3=3DZrkc9y2M1p6QcS55i=[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 8:11 AM=2C Michael <[email-masked]>=
 wrote:
>=20
> > With all due respects to those recommending it for steering boxes greas=
e
> > is not a satisfactory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.
> > The reason is very simple.
> > The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant from the loa=
ded
> > faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.
> > That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing a seal.
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > ------------------------------
> > From: Tom Felts <[email-masked]>
> > Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.
> > To: [email-masked]
> > Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> >
> > I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right fr=
ont
> > suspension area when making a slow full right turn.
> >
> > I do not hear it when making a full turn when the car is on concrete an=
d
> > is not moving.
> >
> > I noted this same condition on my E-Type also.
> >
> > I have Dayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs.
> >
> > It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.
> >
> > Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and
> > found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not f=
it
> > flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn.
> > Their solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved the=
ir
> > problem.
> >
> > Question---------have any of you had this problem and if so what did yo=
u
> > determine was the issue and how did you solve it?
> >
> > Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil se=
al)
> > and the dust excluder has disintegrated.  Is it possible to replace the=
se 2
> > items while the steering box is still in the car by removing the lower =
nut
> > and steering lever?
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
> >
> > tom
> > 65 BJ8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > [email-masked]
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> >
> > ?Having read a little more about this "Corn head lube" I may have to
> rethink what I was taught in school about gearbox lubrication...
> This is pretty convincing...
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3DUEwk_sYP6A8
> ?
> ?Michael S
> BN1 #174?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.*
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/f218ce=
dd/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 14:44:06 -0400
> From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
> To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID:
> 	<[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.
> Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
> I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough informati=
on
> to make one..
> Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimension=
s
> too.
> Thanks=2C
>=20
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>=20
> --=20
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.*
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/d1057d=
96/attachment-0001.html>
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Anchor ID.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 561681 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/d1057d=
96/attachment-0001.jpg>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 19:50:55 +0100
> From: Derek Job <[email-masked]>
> To: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
> Cc: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> 	<[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> Here is a link to a spec sheet
>=20
> http://www.cenex.com/~/media/cenex/files/lubricants/cornhead%20grease/cor=
n%20head%20grease_pds-h9-02.ashx
>=20
> Not being from an agricultural background I had no idea what people were
> talking about when mentioning 'Corn Head Grease'. For others who may be
> similarly in a state of ignorance it appears that a Corn Head is a large
> piece of agricultural equipment that gets attached to an even larger
> combine harvester. Various gears are very much in evidence and this greas=
e
> is what is recommended to lubricate them. It isn't made from the heads of
> corn!
>=20
> Seems to be a similar consistency to Penrite lube.
>=20
> Derek
>=20
> On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 7:13 PM=2C Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmai=
l.com>
> wrote:
>=20
> >
> >
> > On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 8:11 AM=2C Michael <[email-masked]=
m> wrote:
> >
> >> With all due respects to those recommending it for steering boxes grea=
se
> >> is not a satisfactory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.
> >> The reason is very simple.
> >> The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant from the
> >> loaded faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.
> >> That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing a seal=
.
> >> Michael S
> >> BN1 #174
> >> ------------------------------
> >> From: Tom Felts <[email-masked]>
> >> Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.
> >> To: [email-masked]
> >> Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> >>
> >> I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right
> >> front suspension area when making a slow full right turn.
> >>
> >> I do not hear it when making a full turn when the car is on concrete a=
nd
> >> is not moving.
> >>
> >> I noted this same condition on my E-Type also.
> >>
> >> I have Dayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs.
> >>
> >> It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.
> >>
> >> Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem an=
d
> >> found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not =
fit
> >> flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn.
> >> Their solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved th=
eir
> >> problem.
> >>
> >> Question---------have any of you had this problem and if so what did y=
ou
> >> determine was the issue and how did you solve it?
> >>
> >> Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil
> >> seal) and the dust excluder has disintegrated.  Is it possible to repl=
ace
> >> these 2 items while the steering box is still in the car by removing t=
he
> >> lower nut and steering lever?
> >>
> >> Thanks for any help.
> >>
> >> tom
> >> 65 BJ8
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> [email-masked]
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> >>
> >> ?Having read a little more about this "Corn head lube" I may have to
> > rethink what I was taught in school about gearbox lubrication...
> > This is pretty convincing...
> > https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3DUEwk_sYP6A8
> > ?
> > ?Michael S
> > BN1 #174?
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.=
*
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > [email-masked]
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> >
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/b3b3ca=
b0/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 22:33:17 +0200
> From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"=3B Format=3D"flowed"
>=20
> The exact dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it fits=20
> snugly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one up=20
> using a hacksaw=2C grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket should be=
=20
> strong enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as the spring does=20
> not touch any adjacent parts all should be well.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>=20
>=20
> Michael Salter schreef op 15-6-2015 om 20:44:
> > I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.
> > Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
> > I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough=20
> > information to make one..
> > Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps=20
> > dimensions too.
> > Thanks=2C
> >
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> >
> > --=20
> > /If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.=
/
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > [email-masked]
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coude=
[email-masked]
> >
> >
> >
> > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> > Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitgifte:=20
> > 06/15/15
> >
>=20
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/ce57ab=
43/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 17:16:51 -0400
> From: Michael <[email-masked]>
> To: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>=2C <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> Gosh....I never thought of that. ?=20
>=20
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Oudesluys" <[email-masked]>
> Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 4:38 p.m.
> To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
>=20
> The exact dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it fits sn=
ugly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one up using=
 a hacksaw=2C grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket should be strong=
 enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as the spring does not touch=
 any adjacent parts all should be well.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>=20
>=20
> Michael Salter schreef op 15-6-2015 om 20:44:
>=20
> I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.=20
>=20
> Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
>=20
> I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough informati=
on to make one..
>=20
> Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimension=
s too.
>=20
> Thanks=2C
>=20
>=20
> Michael S
>=20
> BN1 #174
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
> If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> =20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>=20
> [email-masked]
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesl=
[email-masked]
>=20
>=20
> =20
>=20
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitgifte: 06/=
15/15
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/8f53e0=
b0/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 11:47:33 -1000
> From: Kimo Briske <[email-masked]>
> To: Healeys <[email-masked]>
> Subject: [Healeys] Recommendation on sale
> Message-ID:
> 	<[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> I was contacted by sellernetworks.com to list my BT7. Does anyone have
> experence with them ? Thanks=2C Jim
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/092c88=
ca/attachment-0001.html>
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: 00 Austin Healey 3000.docx
> Type: application/vnd.openxmlformats-officedocument.wordprocessingml.docu=
ment
> Size: 15373 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/092c88=
ca/attachment-0001.docx>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 17:52:24 -0400
> From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
> To: [email-masked]=2C [email-masked]=2C
> 	[email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3Dwindows-1252=3B format=3Dflowed
>=20
> Gary=2C
>=20
> The SKF part number is 9815.
>=20
> Cheers=2C
>=20
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>=20
> On 06/15/2015 07:43 AM=2C [email-masked] wrote:
> > Where can I get "2 CR seals each of which is 1/2 the thickness of the
> > original"?
> > Gary Hodson
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Michael <[email-masked]>
> > To: Per Schoerner <[email-masked]>=3B healeys <[email-masked]=
>
> > Sent: Sun=2C Jun 14=2C 2015 5:24 pm
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> >
> > Interesting...
> > I have always found that the problem was attributable to corrosion on
> > the rocker shaft where the seal seats.
> > I solve this by using 2 CR seals each of which is 1/2 the thickness of
> > the original.
> > I'm a little confused as to how you get a steering box in a lathe???
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------------=
-
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > [email-masked]
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchas=
[email-masked]
> >
>=20
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue=2C 16 Jun 2015 05:52:32 +0800
> From: Alan Seigrist <[email-masked]>
> To: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
> Cc: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID:
> 	<[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> I am pretty sure kilmartin or maybe David Knock has these.
>=20
> On Tuesday=2C June 16=2C 2015=2C Michael Salter <[email-masked]>=
 wrote:
>=20
> > I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.
> > Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
> > I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough
> > information to make one..
> > Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimensi=
ons
> > too.
> > Thanks=2C
> >
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> >
> > --
> > *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.=
*
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150616/a90a05=
48/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 15:12:11 -0700
> From: M James <[email-masked]>
> To: Michael <[email-masked]>
> Cc: "<[email-masked]>" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> Moss P/N 586-085
>=20
> Sent from my iPad
>=20
> > On Jun 15=2C 2015=2C at 2:16 PM=2C Michael <[email-masked]> w=
rote:
> >=20
> > Gosh....I never thought of that. ?
> > From: Oudesluys
> > Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 4:38 p.m.
> > To: [email-masked]
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> >=20
> > The exact dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it fits =
snugly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one up usi=
ng a hacksaw=2C grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket should be stro=
ng enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as the spring does not tou=
ch any adjacent parts all should be well.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> >=20
> >=20
> > Michael Salter schreef op 15-6-2015 om 20:44:
> >> I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.=20
> >> Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
> >> I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough inform=
ation to make one..
> >> Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimens=
ions too.
> >> Thanks=2C
> >>=20
> >> Michael S
> >> BN1 #174
> >>=20
> >> --=20
> >> If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.
> >>=20
> >>=20
> >>=20
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>=20
> >> [email-masked]
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>=20
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coud=
[email-masked]
> >>=20
> >>=20
> >>=20
> >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitgifte: =
06/15/15
> >>=20
> >=20
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >=20
> > [email-masked]
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >=20
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britc=
[email-masked]
> >=20
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/08d9f0=
d5/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 18:16:25 -0400
> From: Michael <[email-masked]>
> To: M James <[email-masked]>
> Cc: "<[email-masked]>" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> I had discounted the Moss part because the part illustrated looks nothing=
 like the original that I had or like the one in my picture.
> Has anyone purchased the Moss part and could send me a pic.
>=20
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>=20
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "M James" <[email-masked]>
> Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 6:12 p.m.
> To: "Michael" <[email-masked]>
> Cc: "Oudesluys" <[email-masked]>=3B "<[email-masked]>" <he=
[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
>=20
> Moss P/N 586-085
>=20
> Sent from my iPad
>=20
> On Jun 15=2C 2015=2C at 2:16 PM=2C Michael <[email-masked]> wro=
te:
>=20
>=20
> Gosh....I never thought of that. ?=20
>=20
>=20
> From: Oudesluys
> Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 4:38 p.m.
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
>=20
>=20
> The exact dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it fits sn=
ugly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one up using=
 a hacksaw=2C grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket should be strong=
 enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as the spring does not touch=
 any adjacent parts all should be well.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>=20
>=20
> Michael Salter schreef op 15-6-2015 om 20:44:
>=20
> I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.=20
>=20
> Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
>=20
> I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough informati=
on to make one..
>=20
> Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimension=
s too.
>=20
> Thanks=2C
>=20
>=20
> Michael S
>=20
> BN1 #174
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
> If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> =20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>=20
> [email-masked]
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesl=
[email-masked]
>=20
>=20
> =20
>=20
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitgifte: 06/=
15/15
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>=20
> [email-masked]
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs=
@gmail.com
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/4965d9=
21/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 11
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 19:04:19 -0400
> From: "Auto Farm" <[email-masked]>
> To: "'Michael'" <[email-masked]>=2C	<[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <005a01d0a7bf$9c5b84e0$d5128ea0$@ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
>                Mike=2C while I would whole heartedly agree that grease is=
 not a good lubricant for steering boxes=2C or any gearbox for that matter=
=2C the John Deere ?grease? that is refered to is quite different and speci=
fically designed for gearboxes.  It is formulated for gear teeth under much=
 higher loads than our steering boxes will ever encounter=2C and covers the=
 teeth with a visible oily coating.  We have been using it for several year=
s with very good results and no steering box failures?.. or leaking.
>=20
> Cheers?Bob Yule Autofarm Ltd.
>=20
> =20
>=20
> From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Michae=
l
> Sent: June-15-15 8:11 AM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
>=20
> =20
>=20
> With all due respects to those recommending it for steering boxes grease =
is not a satisfactory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.
> The reason is very simple.
> The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant from the loade=
d faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.
> That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing a seal.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>=20
>   _____ =20
>=20
> Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
>=20
> I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right fron=
t suspension area when making a slow full right turn.
>=20
> I do not hear it when making a full turn when the car is on concrete and =
is not moving.
>=20
> I noted this same condition on my E-Type also. =20
>=20
> I have Dayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs. =20
>=20
> It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.
>=20
> Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and f=
ound that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit fl=
ush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn.  Their =
solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their problem=
.
>=20
> Question---------have any of you had this problem and if so what did you =
determine was the issue and how did you solve it?
>=20
> Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil seal=
) and the dust excluder has disintegrated.  Is it possible to replace these=
 2 items while the steering box is still in the car by removing the lower n=
ut and steering lever?
>=20
> Thanks for any help.
>=20
> tom
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>=20
> [email-masked]
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael=
[email-masked]
>=20
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/8cd5f1=
30/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 12
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 19:11:07 -0400
> From: Michael <[email-masked]>
> To: Auto Farm <[email-masked]>=2C <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> Hi Bob and thanks for pointing that out.
> I have watched the John Deere video on their grease and must say that it =
has definitely made me reconsider what I was taught in my engineering class=
es so many years ago.
> Really looks like neat stuff and next time I encounter a leaking steering=
 box I intend to give it to try.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>=20
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Auto Farm" <[email-masked]>
> Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 7:04 p.m.
> To: "'Michael'" <[email-masked]>=3B "[email-masked]" <h=
[email-masked]>
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
>=20
>                Mike=2C while I would whole heartedly agree that grease is=
 not a good lubricant for steering boxes=2C or any gearbox for that matter=
=2C the John Deere ?grease? that is refered to is quite different and speci=
fically designed for gearboxes.  It is formulated for gear teeth under much=
 higher loads than our steering boxes will ever encounter=2C and covers the=
 teeth with a visible oily coating.  We have been using it for several year=
s with very good results and no steering box failures?.. or leaking.
> Cheers?Bob Yule Autofarm Ltd.
> =20
> From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Michae=
l
> Sent: June-15-15 8:11 AM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> =20
> With all due respects to those recommending it for steering boxes grease =
is not a satisfactory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.
> The reason is very simple.
> The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant from the loade=
d faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.
> That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing a seal.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>=20
>=20
>=20
> From: Tom Felts
> Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right fron=
t suspension area when making a slow full right turn.
>=20
> I do not hear it when making a full turn when the car is on concrete and =
is not moving.
>=20
> I noted this same condition on my E-Type also. =20
>=20
> I have Dayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs. =20
>=20
> It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.
>=20
> Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and f=
ound that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit fl=
ush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn.  Their =
solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their problem=
.
>=20
> Question---------have any of you had this problem and if so what did you =
determine was the issue and how did you solve it?
>=20
> Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil seal=
) and the dust excluder has disintegrated.  Is it possible to replace these=
 2 items while the steering box is still in the car by removing the lower n=
ut and steering lever?
>=20
> Thanks for any help.
>=20
> tom
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>=20
> [email-masked]
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael=
[email-masked]
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/abfd2e=
58/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 13
> Date: Tue=2C 16 Jun 2015 11:17:25 +1200
> From: "Mark Donaldson" <[email-masked]>
> To: "'Bob Spidell'" <[email-masked]>=2C "'Healeys'"
> 	<[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving 100
> Message-ID: <3436E3179A0841FEBAE8DB1D1860DDC0@MarkPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B	charset=3D"us-ascii"
>=20
> Bob=2C
>=20
> Are you sure the wheel alignment is OK?
> I have found that with even the slightest bit of toe out=2C my BN2 will b=
e '
> quite lively'
>=20
> Mark
> Ardmore=2C NZ
>=20
>=20
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell [mailto:[email-masked]]=20
> Sent: Monday=2C 15 June 2015 9:49 a.m.
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Driving 100
>=20
> Listers=2C
>=20
> Finally had a chance to put some miles on our BN2/100M resto.  Car=20
> tracks straight and turns well but feels somewhat 'squirrelly' or=20
> 'twitchy' to me.  I'm used to driving a BJ8 with oversize (6") wheels=20
> and 185/70 tires which feels like a land barge compared to the 100.  I=20
> would expect a 100 to be a lot more nimble than a BJ8=2C but you have to=
=20
> really stay on top of the car to stay out of the weeds.  We set up the=20
> suspension ourselves=2C with nominal caster=2C camber and toe=2C but our =
tools=20
> were somewhat crude and we may have screwed something up (particularly=20
> the caster).
>=20
> Anyone driven both cars a lot=2C can tell me if something might be wrong=
=2C=20
> or do I just have to stay on top of this car at all times (I know=2C=20
> you're supposed to stay on top of ALL cars=2C but this one feels like it=
=20
> has no margin for sloppiness or inattentiveness at all)?
>=20
> TIA=2C
> Bob
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 14
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 23:27:11 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
> To: Mark Donaldson <[email-masked]>
> Cc: healeys <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving 100
> Message-ID:
> 	<[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> We've only done the toe setting with crude 'tools' (tape measure=2C mostl=
y).=20
>=20
> Several have commented on toe-in/out being the possible cause=3B we'll ch=
eck it first (won't be down there for a couple weeks).=20
>=20
> Thanks for all the replies. Now=2C back to oil ...=20
>=20
> Bob=20
>=20
>=20
> ----- Original Message -----
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Bob=2C=20
>=20
> Are you sure the wheel alignment is OK?=20
> I have found that with even the slightest bit of toe out=2C my BN2 will b=
e '=20
> quite lively'=20
>=20
> Mark=20
> Ardmore=2C NZ=20
>=20
>=20
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/6a2971=
90/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 15
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 20:17:19 -0400
> From: Rfbegani <[email-masked]>
> To: Michael <[email-masked]>
> Cc: "<[email-masked]>" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> Mike
>=20
> While I am not as experienced regarding restoring and repairing Healeys a=
s you and so many on this list when I reviewed the features and benefits me=
ntioned in the tech spec and saw they were using thixotropic and polymeric =
properties I was convinced they were able to improve on classic  lube mixes=
 because solder and thread compounds paste type products I sold to industry=
 for many years used such technology.  They were created by a u of Chicago =
phd. As you all will see if you look at the video in a semi liquid state st=
icks to the gear surfaces when lube is needed If my steering box becomes a =
leaker will try JD grease first before disassembly.
>=20
> Regards
>=20
> Bob Begani
>=20
> Sent from my iPhone
>=20
> > On Jun 15=2C 2015=2C at 7:11 PM=2C Michael <[email-masked]> w=
rote:
> >=20
> > Hi Bob and thanks for pointing that out.
> > I have watched the John Deere video on their grease and must say that i=
t has definitely made me reconsider what I was taught in my engineering cla=
sses so many years ago.
> > Really looks like neat stuff and next time I encounter a leaking steeri=
ng box I intend to give it to try.
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > From: Auto Farm
> > Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 7:04 p.m.
> > To: 'Michael'=3B [email-masked]
> > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> >=20
> >                Mike=2C while I would whole heartedly agree that grease =
is not a good lubricant for steering boxes=2C or any gearbox for that matte=
r=2C the John Deere ?grease? that is refered to is quite different and spec=
ifically designed for gearboxes.  It is formulated for gear teeth under muc=
h higher loads than our steering boxes will ever encounter=2C and covers th=
e teeth with a visible oily coating.  We have been using it for several yea=
rs with very good results and no steering box failures?.. or leaking.
> > Cheers?Bob Yule Autofarm Ltd.
> > =20
> > From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Mich=
ael
> > Sent: June-15-15 8:11 AM
> > To: [email-masked]
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> > =20
> > With all due respects to those recommending it for steering boxes greas=
e is not a satisfactory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.
> > The reason is very simple.
> > The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant from the loa=
ded faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.
> > That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing a seal.
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > From: Tom Felts
> > Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.
> > To: [email-masked]
> > Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> >=20
> > I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right fr=
ont suspension area when making a slow full right turn.
> >=20
> > I do not hear it when making a full turn when the car is on concrete an=
d is not moving.
> >=20
> > I noted this same condition on my E-Type also. =20
> >=20
> > I have Dayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs. =20
> >=20
> > It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.
> >=20
> > Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and=
 found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit =
flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn.  Thei=
r solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their probl=
em.
> >=20
> > Question---------have any of you had this problem and if so what did yo=
u determine was the issue and how did you solve it?
> >=20
> > Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil se=
al) and the dust excluder has disintegrated.  Is it possible to replace the=
se 2 items while the steering box is still in the car by removing the lower=
 nut and steering lever?
> >=20
> > Thanks for any help.
> >=20
> > tom
> > 65 BJ8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >=20
> > [email-masked]
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >=20
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/micha=
[email-masked]
> >=20
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >=20
> > [email-masked]
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >=20
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbeg=
[email-masked]
> >=20
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/68ad82=
b9/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 16
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 17:26:56 -0700
> From: "George" <[email-masked]>
> To: "'Kimo Briske'" <[email-masked]>=2C "'Healeys'"
> 	<[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Recommendation on sale
> Message-ID: <01c201d0a7cb$2886d8b0$79948a10$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> It appears useless for a Healey.=20
> Oldest vehicle year that one can choose to list is 1993.
> =20
> George Castleberry
> Flagstaff=2C AZ
> 54 BN1
> 59AN5
> =20
> From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Kimo B=
riske
> Sent: Monday=2C June 15=2C 2015 2:48 PM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Recommendation on sale
> =20
> I was contacted by sellernetworks.com to list my BT7. Does anyone have ex=
perence with them ? Thanks=2C Jim
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/72bc55=
98/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 17
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 22:36:33 -0400
> From: Tom Felts <[email-masked]>
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <20150615223633.YVPFE.8833.root@pamxwww07-z01>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3Dutf-8
>=20
> I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess i=
s still in the car.  I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.
>=20
> I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
>=20
> Before I try getting this thing off=2C I assume some of the steering arms=
 must be removed (?)
>=20
> Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what should=
 be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which se=
ems to be quite fixed at the moment.
>=20
> thanks
> tom
>=20
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 18
> Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 22:50:50 -0400
> From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
> To: Tom Felts <[email-masked]>
> Cc: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAB3i7L+g5x7xn2C_NM3L8fuhd2mJT6=[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> Tom=2C
> I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may be worth reading
> through.
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967
> I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod
> from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever away
> from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..
> I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge
> about now.
>=20
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>=20
> On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 10:36 PM=2C Tom Felts <[email-masked]=
t> wrote:
>=20
> > I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess=
 is
> > still in the car.  I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.
> >
> > I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
> >
> > Before I try getting this thing off=2C I assume some of the steering ar=
ms
> > must be removed (?)
> >
> > Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what shou=
ld
> > be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which
> > seems to be quite fixed at the moment.
> >
> > thanks
> > tom
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > [email-masked]
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> >
> >
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.*
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/9c2fda=
5e/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 19
> Date: Tue=2C 16 Jun 2015 08:43:33 +0100
> From: Derek Job <[email-masked]>
> To: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
> Cc: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAAh8et=3DcY6o7U43BSt7ptaDf9c2-TO0+6PDdzJ_h6KWL=[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> The list is confusing me a little at present as there seems to be several
> different threads on this subject=2C some of them split into two or three
> parts.
>=20
> As I mentioned previously I just replaced my steering arm and seal last
> week and I did it with the box still in the car. You need to first
> disconnect the side and centre rods from the arm. It is best if you use a
> ball joint separator to do this as the ends are tapered and remain tightl=
y
> in position after you have removed the nuts.
>=20
> The most difficult thing is removal of the arm itself as it is attached t=
o
> the splined and tapered end of the steering rocker. It will be very tight
> it is best to use a puller to remove it. The problem is that there is ver=
y
> little room to get the puller into position. It will depend on the shape
> and size of the puller. I managed to do it with the puller I purchased bu=
t
> it was a bit of a struggle and I had to use it in a position that was not
> exactly perpendicular. If you can get a good grip a couple of turns on th=
e
> end of the puller will free the arm easily. Replace the seal where you ar=
e
> there.
>=20
> Assembly is the reverse of the above.
>=20
> Derek
>=20
> On Tue=2C Jun 16=2C 2015 at 3:50 AM=2C Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmai=
l.com>
> wrote:
>=20
> > Tom=2C
> > I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may be worth reading
> > through.
> > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967
> > I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod
> > from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever aw=
ay
> > from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..
> > I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge
> > about now.
> >
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> >
> > On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 10:36 PM=2C Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.=
net>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mes=
s
> >> is still in the car.  I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever o=
n.
> >>
> >> I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
> >>
> >> Before I try getting this thing off=2C I assume some of the steering a=
rms
> >> must be removed (?)
> >>
> >> Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what sho=
uld
> >> be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----whic=
h
> >> seems to be quite fixed at the moment.
> >>
> >> thanks
> >> tom
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> [email-masked]
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.=
*
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > [email-masked]
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> >
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150616/73e960=
c5/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 20
> Date: Tue=2C 16 Jun 2015 08:51:15 -0400
> From: Michael <[email-masked]>
> To: Tom Felts <[email-masked]>=2C  "[email-masked]"
> 	<[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> Hi Tom=2C
> I don't want to discourage you from trying but in my experience the facto=
ry used to really tighten the big nut to ensure that the lever would not co=
me loose on the rocker shaft.
> As I mentioned in my post http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967
> they are often so tight that the pressure required to separate them is su=
fficient to crush the end of the shaft or=2C if the puller isn't straight=
=2C actually bend the threaded section of the shaft.
> I would caution you against trying to wedge something between the body of=
 the steering box and the lever as the box is not very strong and is easily=
 broken.
> If you can get the 3 mounting bolts out=2C separate the side and center r=
od ball joints and loosen the U clamp under the dash it is possible to rota=
te the box enough to get the puller described in my blog into position. Thi=
s saves having to remove the turn signal switch=2C steering wheel=2C and gr=
ille so is worth the effort.
> Someone on the list gave the number for the seals that have worked for me=
 many times.
> Once you have the lever off it is relatively easy to remove the lid and t=
hen the rocker shaft.
> For an exceptional job it's not that expensive to have the area of the ro=
cker shaft where the seal rides built up with "hard chrome" and ground back=
 to size.
> Good luck....maybe you will be lucky and find that someone has had the le=
ver off previously and tightened the nut a little less enthusiastically tha=
t the factory guys.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>=20
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Tom Felts" <[email-masked]>
> Sent: ?16/?06/?2015 8:22 a.m.
> To: "Michael Salter" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
>=20
> More like a refridg full of beers!!:)  Do you think that puller can be us=
ed while the rack is still mounted in the car?  I'm not to keen on taking t=
he whole thing out.
>=20
> I may end up draining as much old oil out as I can and refilling with JD =
cornhead grease.  Assume mixing a little won't be a problem?
>=20
> Thanks----appreciate the info.
> tom
> ---- Michael Salter <[email-masked]> wrote:=20
>=20
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> Tom=2C
> I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may be worth reading
> through.
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967
> I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod
> from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever away
> from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..
> I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge
> about now.
>=20
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>=20
> On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 10:36 PM=2C Tom Felts <[email-masked]=
t> wrote:
>=20
> > I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess=
 is
> > still in the car.  I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.
> >
> > I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
> >
> > Before I try getting this thing off=2C I assume some of the steering ar=
ms
> > must be removed (?)
> >
> > Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what shou=
ld
> > be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which
> > seems to be quite fixed at the moment.
> >
> > thanks
> > tom
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > [email-masked]
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> >
> >
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.*
>=20
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150616/77b9c3=
70/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 21
> Date: Tue=2C 16 Jun 2015 14:42:07 +0100
> From: Derek Job <[email-masked]>
> To: Michael <[email-masked]>
> Cc: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> 	<[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> This what I used=2C it is from the UK but no doubt you can get something
> similar in the US. If it doesn't work you could try rotating the box as
> suggested by Michael=2C which should give easier access.
>=20
> http://www.auravita.com/product/65mm-Reach-x-75mm-Spread-Twin-Leg-Reversi=
ble-Puller-13906-Draper.JSOB17033.html?RefId=3D225&adid=3DJSOB17033&gclid=
=3DCj0KEQjwkv-rBRDwoMLav-2l9KIBEiQAUTkDU0-EPWV8xUEkXt-NZEjq91sZ5M9oDZ_dPH84=
PmYtURwaAuKb8P8HAQ
>=20
> On Tue=2C Jun 16=2C 2015 at 1:51 PM=2C Michael <[email-masked]>=
 wrote:
>=20
> > Hi Tom=2C
> > I don't want to discourage you from trying but in my experience the
> > factory used to really tighten the big nut to ensure that the lever wou=
ld
> > not come loose on the rocker shaft.
> > As I mentioned in my post http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967
> > they are often so tight that the pressure required to separate them is
> > sufficient to crush the end of the shaft or=2C if the puller isn't stra=
ight=2C
> > actually bend the threaded section of the shaft.
> > I would caution you against trying to wedge something between the body =
of
> > the steering box and the lever as the box is not very strong and is eas=
ily
> > broken.
> > If you can get the 3 mounting bolts out=2C separate the side and center=
 rod
> > ball joints and loosen the U clamp under the dash it is possible to rot=
ate
> > the box enough to get the puller described in my blog into position. Th=
is
> > saves having to remove the turn signal switch=2C steering wheel=2C and =
grille
> > so is worth the effort.
> > Someone on the list gave the number for the seals that have worked for =
me
> > many times.
> > Once you have the lever off it is relatively easy to remove the lid and
> > then the rocker shaft.
> > For an exceptional job it's not that expensive to have the area of the
> > rocker shaft where the seal rides built up with "hard chrome" and groun=
d
> > back to size.
> > Good luck....maybe you will be lucky and find that someone has had the
> > lever off previously and tightened the nut a little less enthusiastical=
ly
> > that the factory guys.
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > ------------------------------
> > From: Tom Felts <[email-masked]>
> > Sent: ?16/?06/?2015 8:22 a.m.
> > To: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> >
> > More like a refridg full of beers!!:)  Do you think that puller can be
> > used while the rack is still mounted in the car?  I'm not to keen on ta=
king
> > the whole thing out.
> >
> > I may end up draining as much old oil out as I can and refilling with J=
D
> > cornhead grease.  Assume mixing a little won't be a problem?
> >
> > Thanks----appreciate the info.
> > tom
> > ---- Michael Salter <[email-masked]> wrote:
> >
> > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> >
> > Tom=2C
> > I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may be worth reading
> > through.
> > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967
> > I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod
> > from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever aw=
ay
> > from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..
> > I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge
> > about now.
> >
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> >
> > On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 10:36 PM=2C Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.=
net>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole me=
ss
> > is
> > > still in the car.  I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.
> > >
> > > I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
> > >
> > > Before I try getting this thing off=2C I assume some of the steering =
arms
> > > must be removed (?)
> > >
> > > Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what sh=
ould
> > > be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----whi=
ch
> > > seems to be quite fixed at the moment.
> > >
> > > thanks
> > > tom
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > [email-masked]
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.=
*
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > [email-masked]
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> >
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150616/cbbcef=
f2/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Message: 22
> Date: Tue=2C 16 Jun 2015 09:46:12 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Tim Davis BN7 <[email-masked]>
> To: Derek Job <[email-masked]>
> Cc: [email-masked]=2C Michael <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> 	<[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"
>=20
> Get the Pitman arm puller=20
>=20
> ----- Original Message -----
>=20
> From: "Derek Job" <[email-masked]>=20
> To: "Michael" <[email-masked]>=20
> Cc: [email-masked]=20
> Sent: Tuesday=2C June 16=2C 2015 8:42:07 AM=20
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8=20
>=20
> This what I used=2C it is from the UK but no doubt you can get something =
similar in the US. If it doesn't work you could try rotating the box as sug=
gested by Michael=2C which should give easier access.=20
>=20
> http://www.auravita.com/product/65mm-Reach-x-75mm-Spread-Twin-Leg-Reversi=
ble-Puller-13906-Draper.JSOB17033.html?RefId=3D225&adid=3DJSOB17033&gclid=
=3DCj0KEQjwkv-rBRDwoMLav-2l9KIBEiQAUTkDU0-EPWV8xUEkXt-NZEjq91sZ5M9oDZ_dPH84=
PmYtURwaAuKb8P8HAQ=20
>=20
> On Tue=2C Jun 16=2C 2015 at 1:51 PM=2C Michael < [email-masked]=
 > wrote:=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Hi Tom=2C=20
> I don't want to discourage you from trying but in my experience the facto=
ry used to really tighten the big nut to ensure that the lever would not co=
me loose on the rocker shaft.=20
> As I mentioned in my post http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967=20
> they are often so tight that the pressure required to separate them is su=
fficient to crush the end of the shaft or=2C if the puller isn't straight=
=2C actually bend the threaded section of the shaft.=20
> I would caution you against trying to wedge something between the body of=
 the steering box and the lever as the box is not very strong and is easily=
 broken.=20
> If you can get the 3 mounting bolts out=2C separate the side and center r=
od ball joints and loosen the U clamp under the dash it is possible to rota=
te the box enough to get the puller described in my blog into position. Thi=
s saves having to remove the turn signal switch=2C steering wheel=2C and gr=
ille so is worth the effort.=20
> Someone on the list gave the number for the seals that have worked for me=
 many times.=20
> Once you have the lever off it is relatively easy to remove the lid and t=
hen the rocker shaft.=20
> For an exceptional job it's not that expensive to have the area of the ro=
cker shaft where the seal rides built up with "hard chrome" and ground back=
 to size.=20
> Good luck....maybe you will be lucky and find that someone has had the le=
ver off previously and tightened the nut a little less enthusiastically tha=
t the factory guys.=20
> Michael S=20
> BN1 #174=20
>=20
> From: Tom Felts=20
> Sent: ?16/?06/?2015 8:22 a.m.=20
> To: Michael Salter=20
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8=20
>=20
> More like a refridg full of beers!!:) Do you think that puller can be use=
d while the rack is still mounted in the car? I'm not to keen on taking the=
 whole thing out.=20
>=20
> I may end up draining as much old oil out as I can and refilling with JD =
cornhead grease. Assume mixing a little won't be a problem?=20
>=20
> Thanks----appreciate the info.=20
> tom=20
> ---- Michael Salter < [email-masked] > wrote:=20
>=20
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=20
>=20
> Tom=2C=20
> I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may be worth reading=20
> through.=20
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967=20
> I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod=20
> from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever away=
=20
> from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..=20
> I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge=20
> about now.=20
>=20
> Michael S=20
> BN1 #174=20
>=20
> On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 10:36 PM=2C Tom Felts < [email-masked]=
et > wrote:=20
>=20
> > I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess=
 is=20
> > still in the car. I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.=20
> >=20
> > I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.=20
> >=20
> > Before I try getting this thing off=2C I assume some of the steering ar=
ms=20
> > must be removed (?)=20
> >=20
> > Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what shou=
ld=20
> > be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which=
=20
> > seems to be quite fixed at the moment.=20
> >=20
> > thanks=20
> > tom=20
> > _______________________________________________=20
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html=20
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75=20
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=20
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums=20
> >=20
> > [email-masked]=20
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys=20
> >=20
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]=20
> >=20
> >=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.*=
=20
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________=20
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html=20
> Suggested annual donation $12.75=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=20
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums=20
>=20
> [email-masked]=20
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys=20
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c=
[email-masked]=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________=20
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html=20
> Suggested annual donation $12.75=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=20
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums=20
>=20
> [email-masked]=20
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys=20
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tld6008=
@mchsi.com=20
>=20
>=20
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150616/d4ca8b=
c6/attachment-0001.html>
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Subject: Digest Footer
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>=20
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> End of Healeys Digest=2C Vol 8=2C Issue 170
> ***************************************
 		 	   		  =

--_71e7c5d0-d4be-49ba-9273-fa0ebaa0fa91_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<style><!--
.hmmessage P
{
margin:0px=3B
padding:0px
}
body.hmmessage
{
font-size: 12pt=3B
font-family:Calibri
}
--></style></head>
<body class=3D'hmmessage'><div dir=3D'ltr'>Years ago I cured my steering bo=
x leak by adding a product by Bardahl called "No Smoke". It is extremely th=
ick oil. I have not added any additional oil since then.<br><br><div>&gt=3B=
 From: [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B Subject: Healeys Digest=2C =
Vol 8=2C Issue 170<br>&gt=3B To: [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B Date: Tue=
=2C 16 Jun 2015 12:00:03 -0600<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Send Healeys mailing li=
st submissions to<br>&gt=3B 	[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B To=
 subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web=2C visit<br>&gt=3B 	http:/=
/autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B or=2C via email=2C send =
a message with subject or body 'help' to<br>&gt=3B 	[email-masked]=
eam.net<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B You can reach the person managing the list at<=
br>&gt=3B 	[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B When replying=
=2C please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br>&gt=3B than "Re=
: Contents of Healeys digest..."<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Today's To=
pics:<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B    1. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions-=
-BJ8 (Michael Salter)<br>&gt=3B    2. BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Mich=
ael Salter)<br>&gt=3B    3. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 =
(Derek Job)<br>&gt=3B    4. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Oudesluys)=
<br>&gt=3B    5. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Michael)<br>&gt=3B   =
 6. Recommendation on sale (Kimo Briske)<br>&gt=3B    7. Re: Steering Box a=
nd Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Bob Haskell)<br>&gt=3B    8. Re: BN1 Clutch R=
eturn Spring Anchor (Alan Seigrist)<br>&gt=3B    9. Re: BN1 Clutch Return S=
pring Anchor (M James)<br>&gt=3B   10. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor =
(Michael)<br>&gt=3B   11. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (A=
uto Farm)<br>&gt=3B   12. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (M=
ichael)<br>&gt=3B   13. Re: Driving 100 (Mark Donaldson)<br>&gt=3B   14. Re=
: Driving 100 (Bob Spidell)<br>&gt=3B   15. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel=
 Questions--BJ8 (Rfbegani)<br>&gt=3B   16. Re: Recommendation on sale (Geor=
ge)<br>&gt=3B   17. Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Tom Felts)<br>&g=
t=3B   18. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Michael Salter)<br>&g=
t=3B   19. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Derek Job)<br>&gt=3B =
  20. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Michael)<br>&gt=3B   21. R=
e: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Derek Job)<br>&gt=3B   22. Re: St=
eering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Tim Davis BN7)<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <b=
r>&gt=3B ------------------------------------------------------------------=
----<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 1<br>&gt=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 14:=
13:03 -0400<br>&gt=3B From: Michael Salter &lt=[email-masked]&gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B To: "[email-masked]" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions-=
-BJ8<br>&gt=3B Message-ID:<br>&gt=3B 	&lt=3BCAB3i7LLJ-7QBw3=3DZrkc9y2M1p6Qc=
S55i=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/=
plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at=
 8:11 AM=2C Michael &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B wrote:<br>&gt=3B <=
br>&gt=3B &gt=3B With all due respects to those recommending it for steerin=
g boxes grease<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B is not a satisfactory lubricant for any typ=
e of precision gearbox.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B The reason is very simple.<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant from =
the loaded<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be =
replenished.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B That is why the designers went to all the tro=
uble of installing a seal.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B BN1 =
#174<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B From:=
 Tom Felts &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Sent: ?14/?=
06/?2015 5:00 p.m.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B To: [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &g=
t=3B Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise =
coming from the right front<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B suspension area when making a =
slow full right turn.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I do not hear it wh=
en making a full turn when the car is on concrete and<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B is n=
ot moving.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I noted this same condition on=
 my E-Type also.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I have Dayton wire wheel=
s on both and relatively new hubs.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B It is =
not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&g=
t=3B &gt=3B Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same pro=
blem and<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone d=
own and they did not fit<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B flush with the hub--thus causing =
the noise while making a sharp turn.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Their solution was to=
 get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B probl=
em.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Question---------have any of you had =
this problem and if so what did you<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B determine was the issu=
e and how did you solve it?<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Question #2--=
----The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil seal)<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B and the dust excluder has disintegrated.  Is it possible to replace the=
se 2<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B items while the steering box is still in the car by r=
emoving the lower nut<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B and steering lever?<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B=
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Thanks for any help.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B to=
m<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B 65 BJ8<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B ________________________________=
_______________<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donat=
e.html<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B =
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.te=
am.net/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&=
gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team=
.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&g=
t=3B &gt=3B ?Having read a little more about this "Corn head lube" I may ha=
ve to<br>&gt=3B rethink what I was taught in school about gearbox lubricati=
on...<br>&gt=3B This is pretty convincing...<br>&gt=3B https://m.youtube.co=
m/watch?v=3DUEwk_sYP6A8<br>&gt=3B ?<br>&gt=3B ?Michael S<br>&gt=3B BN1 #174=
?<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -- <br>&gt=3B *If you can't fi=
x it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.*<br>&gt=3B --------=
------ next part --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed..=
.<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/=
20150615/f218cedd/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ---------=
---------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 2<br>&gt=3B Date: Mon=
=2C 15 Jun 2015 14:44:06 -0400<br>&gt=3B From: Michael Salter &lt=3Bmichael=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: "[email-masked]" &lt=3Bhealeys=
@autox.team.net&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring=
 Anchor<br>&gt=3B Message-ID:<br>&gt=3B 	&lt=3BCAB3i7L+OrNud9kTWo0n3y38OxeV=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/p=
lain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I have been unable to find t=
he clutch return spring anchor for #174.<br>&gt=3B Looks as though I'm goin=
g to have to make one.<br>&gt=3B I have attached a pic of one in position b=
ut do not have enough information<br>&gt=3B to make one..<br>&gt=3B Can any=
one out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimensions<br>&gt=
=3B too.<br>&gt=3B Thanks=2C<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B BN1 #=
174<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -- <br>&gt=3B *If you can't fix it with a hammer=
=2C you've got an electrical problem.*<br>&gt=3B -------------- next part -=
-------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &=
lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/d1057d96/=
attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B -------------- next part -------------=
-<br>&gt=3B A non-text attachment was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B Name: Anchor ID=
.jpg<br>&gt=3B Type: image/jpeg<br>&gt=3B Size: 561681 bytes<br>&gt=3B Desc=
: not available<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20150615/d1057d96/attachment-0001.jpg&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=
=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 3<br>&gt=
=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 19:50:55 +0100<br>&gt=3B From: Derek Job &lt=
=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: Michael Salter &lt=3Bmichaelsa=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Cc: "[email-masked]" &lt=3Bhealeys@a=
utox.team.net&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire =
Wheel Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B Message-ID:<br>&gt=3B 	&lt=3BCAAh8etk3f_pLGv=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content=
-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Here is a link =
to a spec sheet<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B http://www.cenex.com/~/media/cenex/fil=
es/lubricants/cornhead%20grease/corn%20head%20grease_pds-h9-02.ashx<br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B Not being from an agricultural background I had no idea what=
 people were<br>&gt=3B talking about when mentioning 'Corn Head Grease'. Fo=
r others who may be<br>&gt=3B similarly in a state of ignorance it appears =
that a Corn Head is a large<br>&gt=3B piece of agricultural equipment that =
gets attached to an even larger<br>&gt=3B combine harvester. Various gears =
are very much in evidence and this grease<br>&gt=3B is what is recommended =
to lubricate them. It isn't made from the heads of<br>&gt=3B corn!<br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B Seems to be a similar consistency to Penrite lube.<br>&gt=3B=
 <br>&gt=3B Derek<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 7:13 PM=
=2C Michael Salter &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B wrote:<br>=
&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B On Mon=2C Jun 15=
=2C 2015 at 8:11 AM=2C Michael &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B wrote:<=
br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B With all due respects to those reco=
mmending it for steering boxes grease<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B is not a satis=
factory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B=
 The reason is very simple.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B The pressure on the gear=
 teeth will displace the lubricant from the<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B loaded f=
aces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B=
&gt=3B That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing a se=
al.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B From=
: Tom Felts &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Sent=
: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B To: [email-masked]=
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Ques=
tions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B I have recently be=
en hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B f=
ront suspension area when making a slow full right turn.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&g=
t=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B I do not hear it when making a full turn when t=
he car is on concrete and<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B is not moving.<br>&gt=3B &=
gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B I noted this same condition on my E-Type=
 also.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B I have Dayton wire whe=
els on both and relatively new hubs.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B&gt=3B It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Several listers on the Jag list hav=
e said they had the same problem and<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B found that the =
quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B=
&gt=3B flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn=
.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Their solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wire=
s and that solved their<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B problem.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Question---------have any of you had this proble=
m and if so what did you<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B determine was the issue and=
 how did you solve it?<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Questi=
on #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil<br>&gt=3B &g=
t=3B&gt=3B seal) and the dust excluder has disintegrated.  Is it possible t=
o replace<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B these 2 items while the steering box is st=
ill in the car by removing the<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B lower nut and steerin=
g lever?<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Thanks for any help.=
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B tom<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B 6=
5 BJ8<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B ______________________________________________=
_<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<b=
r>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=
=3B Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Forums: htt=
p://www.team.net/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Heale=
[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/list=
info/healeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Unsubscribe/Mana=
ge:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mi=
[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B ?Having=
 read a little more about this "Corn head lube" I may have to<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B rethink what I was taught in school about gearbox lubrication...<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B This is pretty convincing...<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B https://m.youtube.=
com/watch?v=3DUEwk_sYP6A8<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B ?<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B ?Michael S<br=
>&gt=3B &gt=3B BN1 #174?<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B=
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B --<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C=
 you've got an electrical problem.*<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&g=
t=3B &gt=3B _______________________________________________<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Sugge=
sted annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Archive: http://www.team.net/=
archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Unsubscr=
ibe/Manage:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/=
[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br=
>&gt=3B -------------- next part --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachmen=
t was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/heal=
eys/attachments/20150615/b3b3cab0/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>=
&gt=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 4<br>&g=
t=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 22:33:17 +0200<br>&gt=3B From: Oudesluys &lt=
=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: [email-masked]<br>&gt=
=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor<br>&gt=3B Messag=
e-ID: &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/p=
lain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"=3B Format=3D"flowed"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B The exa=
ct dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it fits <br>&gt=3B =
snugly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one up <br=
>&gt=3B using a hacksaw=2C grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket sho=
uld be <br>&gt=3B strong enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as t=
he spring does <br>&gt=3B not touch any adjacent parts all should be well.<=
br>&gt=3B Kees Oudesluijs<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Michael Salter sc=
hreef op 15-6-2015 om 20:44:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I have been unable to find th=
e clutch return spring anchor for #174.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Looks as though I'=
m going to have to make one.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I have attached a pic of one =
in position but do not have enough <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B information to make on=
e..<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.=
. perhaps <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B dimensions too.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Thanks=2C<br>&=
gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B=
 &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B -- <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B /If you can't fix it with a h=
ammer=2C you've got an electrical problem./<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B _____________________________________=
__________<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htm=
l<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Archi=
ve: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.ne=
t/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B=
 &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>=
&gt=3B &gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/hea=
leys/[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B G=
econtroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com &lt=3Bhttp://www.avg.com&gt=3B<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitg=
ifte: <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B 06/15/15<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ----=
---------- next part --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubb=
ed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachme=
nts/20150615/ce57ab43/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -----=
-------------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 5<br>&gt=3B Date: M=
on=2C 15 Jun 2015 17:16:51 -0400<br>&gt=3B From: Michael &lt=3Bmichael.salt=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: Oudesluys &lt=[email-masked]&gt=
=3B=2C &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] =
BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor<br>&gt=3B Message-ID: &lt=3B557f40e1.042d32=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B =
charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Gosh....I never thought of that. ? <=
br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -----Original Message-----<br>&gt=3B From: "Oudesluys"=
 &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 4:38 p.m.<=
br>&gt=3B To: "[email-masked]" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<b=
r>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor<br>&gt=3B <=
br>&gt=3B The exact dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it=
 fits snugly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one =
up using a hacksaw=2C grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket should b=
e strong enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as the spring does n=
ot touch any adjacent parts all should be well.<br>&gt=3B Kees Oudesluijs<b=
r>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Michael Salter schreef op 15-6-2015 om 20:44=
:<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I have been unable to find the clutch return spring =
anchor for #174. <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Looks as though I'm going to have to=
 make one.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I have attached a pic of one in position bu=
t do not have enough information to make one..<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Can any=
one out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimensions too.<br=
>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Thanks=2C<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Michael S<br>&=
gt=3B <br>&gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -- <br>&gt=3B <br=
>&gt=3B If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical probl=
em.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B  <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B _____=
__________________________________________<br>&gt=3B Support Team.Net http:=
//www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&=
gt=3B Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B Forums: http://www.tea=
m.net/forums<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B http://a=
utox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Unsubscribe/Man=
age: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br=
>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B  <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Geen virus gevonden in=
 dit bericht.<br>&gt=3B Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com<br>&gt=3B Vers=
ie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitgifte: 06/15/15<=
br>&gt=3B -------------- next part --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachm=
ent was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/he=
aleys/attachments/20150615/8f53e0b0/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <b=
r>&gt=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 6<br>=
&gt=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 11:47:33 -1000<br>&gt=3B From: Kimo Briske =
&lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: Healeys &lt=3Bhealeys@autox.=
team.net&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: [Healeys] Recommendation on sale<br>&gt=
=3B Message-ID:<br>&gt=3B 	&lt=3BCANqsgC7wu9ioDzn1VLaqaXDcVq+iwZOgezak80P-v=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charse=
t=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I was contacted by sellernetworks.com to l=
ist my BT7. Does anyone have<br>&gt=3B experence with them ? Thanks=2C Jim<=
br>&gt=3B -------------- next part --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachm=
ent was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/he=
aleys/attachments/20150615/092c88ca/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B --=
------------ next part --------------<br>&gt=3B A non-text attachment was s=
crubbed...<br>&gt=3B Name: 00 Austin Healey 3000.docx<br>&gt=3B Type: appli=
cation/vnd.openxmlformats-officedocument.wordprocessingml.document<br>&gt=
=3B Size: 15373 bytes<br>&gt=3B Desc: not available<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bht=
tp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/092c88ca/attachm=
ent-0001.docx&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ------------------------------<br>=
&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 7<br>&gt=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 17:52:24 -0=
400<br>&gt=3B From: Bob Haskell &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=
=3B To: [email-masked]=2C [email-masked]=2C<br>&gt=3B 	healey=
[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Whe=
el Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B Message-ID: &lt=[email-masked]=
t&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3Dwindows-1252=3B for=
mat=3Dflowed<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Gary=2C<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B The SKF part=
 number is 9815.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Cheers=2C<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Bob Ha=
skell<br>&gt=3B AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar<br>&gt=3B http://www.ciahc.org/reg=
istry_3000mk1.php<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B On 06/15/2015 07:43 AM=2C warthodson=
@aol.com wrote:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Where can I get "2 CR seals each of which =
is 1/2 the thickness of the<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B original"?<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Ga=
ry Hodson<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B -----Original Message-----<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B From=
: Michael &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B To: Per Sch=
oerner &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B=3B healeys &lt=[email-masked]=
&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Sent: Sun=2C Jun 14=2C 2015 5:24 pm<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8<br>&g=
t=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Interesting...<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I have always =
found that the problem was attributable to corrosion on<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B th=
e rocker shaft where the seal seats.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I solve this by using=
 2 CR seals each of which is 1/2 the thickness of<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B the orig=
inal.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I'm a little confused as to how you get a steering b=
ox in a lathe???<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&g=
t=3B &gt=3B ---------------------------------------------------------------=
---------<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B _______________________________________________<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Archive: http://www.=
team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://=
autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B U=
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@=
earthlink.net<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ------------=
------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 8<br>&gt=3B Date: Tue=2C 1=
6 Jun 2015 05:52:32 +0800<br>&gt=3B From: Alan Seigrist &lt=3Bhealey.nut@gm=
ail.com&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: Michael Salter &lt=[email-masked]&gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B Cc: "[email-masked]" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor<br>&gt=
=3B Message-ID:<br>&gt=3B 	&lt=3BCAFBXTk+7BeT_Vkgxgdu2mf7mzociBqPxwSpG3nraQ=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charse=
t=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I am pretty sure kilmartin or maybe David =
Knock has these.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B On Tuesday=2C June 16=2C 2015=2C Mich=
ael Salter &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B wrote:<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B =
&gt=3B I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.=
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.<br>&gt=3B =
&gt=3B I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough<br>&=
gt=3B &gt=3B information to make one..<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Can anyone out ther=
e send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimensions<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B to=
o.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Thanks=2C<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Michael S<b=
r>&gt=3B &gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B --<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.=
*<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B -------------- next part ----=
----------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=
=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150616/a90a0548/at=
tachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -----------------------------=
-<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 9<br>&gt=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 15:12:=
11 -0700<br>&gt=3B From: M James &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To=
: Michael &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Cc: "&lt=3Bhealeys=
@autox.team.net&gt=3B" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject=
: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor<br>&gt=3B Message-ID: &lt=
=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-T=
ype: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Moss P/N 586-085<=
br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Sent from my iPad<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B On Jun 1=
5=2C 2015=2C at 2:16 PM=2C Michael &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B wro=
te:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Gosh....I never thought of that. ?<b=
r>&gt=3B &gt=3B From: Oudesluys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 4:38 p=
.m.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B To: [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Subject: R=
e: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &g=
t=3B The exact dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it fits=
 snugly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one up us=
ing a hacksaw=2C grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket should be str=
ong enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as the spring does not to=
uch any adjacent parts all should be well.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Kees Oudesluijs=
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Michael Salter schree=
f op 15-6-2015 om 20:44:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B I have been unable to find =
the clutch return spring anchor for #174. <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Looks as =
though I'm going to have to make one.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B I have attache=
d a pic of one in position but do not have enough information to make one..=
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Can anyone out there send me a picture of one remov=
ed.. perhaps dimensions too.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Thanks=2C<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B BN1 #174=
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B -- <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B =
If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.<br>&=
gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B <br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B _______________________________________________<br>&gt=3B =
&gt=3B&gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B&gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Archive:=
 http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Forums: http://www.team=
.net/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B [email-masked]=
am.net<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healey=
s<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage: http:/=
/autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B=
&gt=3B Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Gecontrol=
eerd door AVG - www.avg.com<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Vi=
rusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitgifte: 06/15/15<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B ___________________________________=
____________<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.h=
tml<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Arc=
hive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.=
net/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B =
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options=
/healeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -------------- next =
part --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B =
URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/08d=
9f0d5/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ---------------------=
---------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 10<br>&gt=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 20=
15 18:16:25 -0400<br>&gt=3B From: Michael &lt=[email-masked]&gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B To: M James &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Cc: "&lt=
=[email-masked]&gt=3B" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=
=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor<br>&gt=3B Messag=
e-ID: &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B C=
ontent-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I had dis=
counted the Moss part because the part illustrated looks nothing like the o=
riginal that I had or like the one in my picture.<br>&gt=3B Has anyone purc=
hased the Moss part and could send me a pic.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Michael S=
<br>&gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -----Original Message-----<br>&gt=
=3B From: "M James" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Sent: ?15/?06/?=
2015 6:12 p.m.<br>&gt=3B To: "Michael" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B=
<br>&gt=3B Cc: "Oudesluys" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B=3B "&lt=3Bheal=
[email-masked]&gt=3B" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subj=
ect: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Mos=
s P/N 586-085<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Sent from my iPad<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B O=
n Jun 15=2C 2015=2C at 2:16 PM=2C Michael &lt=[email-masked]&gt=
=3B wrote:<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Gosh....I never thought of that.=
 ? <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B From: Oudesluys<br>&gt=3B Sent: ?15/?06=
/?2015 4:38 p.m.<br>&gt=3B To: [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re=
: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B=
 The exact dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it fits snu=
gly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one up using =
a hacksaw=2C grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket should be strong =
enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as the spring does not touch =
any adjacent parts all should be well.<br>&gt=3B Kees Oudesluijs<br>&gt=3B =
<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Michael Salter schreef op 15-6-2015 om 20:44:<br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor f=
or #174. <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Looks as though I'm going to have to make on=
e.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I have attached a pic of one in position but do not=
 have enough information to make one..<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Can anyone out =
there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimensions too.<br>&gt=3B =
<br>&gt=3B Thanks=2C<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B <b=
r>&gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -- <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B =
If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.<br>&=
gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B  <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B _____________=
__________________________________<br>&gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.te=
am.net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B Ar=
chive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/fo=
rums<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage: htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B =
<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B  <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Geen virus gevonden in dit ber=
icht.<br>&gt=3B Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com<br>&gt=3B Versie: 2015=
.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitgifte: 06/15/15<br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B _______________________________________________<b=
r>&gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B Suggest=
ed annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<b=
r>&gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Healeys@au=
tox.team.net<br>&gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&g=
t=3B <br>&gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/h=
ealeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B -------------- next part --------------<=
br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://au=
tox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/4965d921/attachment-000=
1.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=3B =
<br>&gt=3B Message: 11<br>&gt=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 19:04:19 -0400<br=
>&gt=3B From: "Auto Farm" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: "'=
Michael'" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B=2C	&lt=[email-masked].=
net&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Ques=
tions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B Message-ID: &lt=3B005a01d0a7bf$9c5b84e0$d5128ea0$@ca&g=
t=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>=
&gt=3B                Mike=2C while I would whole heartedly agree that grea=
se is not a good lubricant for steering boxes=2C or any gearbox for that ma=
tter=2C the John Deere ?grease? that is refered to is quite different and s=
pecifically designed for gearboxes.  It is formulated for gear teeth under =
much higher loads than our steering boxes will ever encounter=2C and covers=
 the teeth with a visible oily coating.  We have been using it for several =
years with very good results and no steering box failures?.. or leaking.<br=
>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Cheers?Bob Yule Autofarm Ltd.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B  <br>=
&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On =
Behalf Of Michael<br>&gt=3B Sent: June-15-15 8:11 AM<br>&gt=3B To: healeys@=
autox.team.net<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel=
 Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B  <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B With all due re=
spects to those recommending it for steering boxes grease is not a satisfac=
tory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.<br>&gt=3B The reason is v=
ery simple.<br>&gt=3B The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubr=
icant from the loaded faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replen=
ished.<br>&gt=3B That is why the designers went to all the trouble of insta=
lling a seal.<br>&gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B  =
 _____  <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B From: Tom Felts &lt=3Bmailto:tomfelts@windstr=
eam.net&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.<br>&gt=3B To: healey=
[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Q=
uestions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I have recently been hearing a "pop pop"=
 noise coming from the right front suspension area when making a slow full =
right turn.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I do not hear it when making a full turn w=
hen the car is on concrete and is not moving.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I noted =
this same condition on my E-Type also.  <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I have Dayton=
 wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs.  <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B It is =
not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B S=
everal listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and foun=
d that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit flush=
 with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn.  Their sol=
ution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their problem.<b=
r>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Question---------have any of you had this problem and i=
f so what did you determine was the issue and how did you solve it?<br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume=
 bad oil seal) and the dust excluder has disintegrated.  Is it possible to =
replace these 2 items while the steering box is still in the car by removin=
g the lower nut and steering lever?<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Thanks for any hel=
p.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B tom<br>&gt=3B 65 BJ8<br>&gt=3B ____________________=
___________________________<br>&gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/=
donate.html<br>&gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B Archive: =
>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B http://autox.team.net/m=
ailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage: http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B <br>&=
gt=3B -------------- next part --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment =
was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healey=
s/attachments/20150615/8cd5f130/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&g=
t=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 12<br>&gt=
=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 19:11:07 -0400<br>&gt=3B From: Michael &lt=3Bm=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: Auto Farm &lt=3Bautofarm@wightm=
an.ca&gt=3B=2C &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [H=
ealeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B Message-ID: &l=
t=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-T=
ype: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Hi Bob and thanks=
 for pointing that out.<br>&gt=3B I have watched the John Deere video on th=
eir grease and must say that it has definitely made me reconsider what I wa=
s taught in my engineering classes so many years ago.<br>&gt=3B Really look=
s like neat stuff and next time I encounter a leaking steering box I intend=
 to give it to try.<br>&gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B <br>&g=
t=3B -----Original Message-----<br>&gt=3B From: "Auto Farm" &lt=3Bautofarm@=
wightman.ca&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 7:04 p.m.<br>&gt=3B To: "'M=
ichael'" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B=3B "[email-masked]" &=
lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: RE: [Healeys] Steering=
 Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B                Mike=
=2C while I would whole heartedly agree that grease is not a good lubricant=
 for steering boxes=2C or any gearbox for that matter=2C the John Deere ?gr=
ease? that is refered to is quite different and specifically designed for g=
earboxes.  It is formulated for gear teeth under much higher loads than our=
 steering boxes will ever encounter=2C and covers the teeth with a visible =
oily coating.  We have been using it for several years with very good resul=
ts and no steering box failures?.. or leaking.<br>&gt=3B Cheers?Bob Yule Au=
tofarm Ltd.<br>&gt=3B  <br>&gt=3B From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@aut=
ox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael<br>&gt=3B Sent: June-15-15 8:11 AM<br>&gt=
=3B To: [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Bo=
x and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B  <br>&gt=3B With all due respects=
 to those recommending it for steering boxes grease is not a satisfactory l=
ubricant for any type of precision gearbox.<br>&gt=3B The reason is very si=
mple.<br>&gt=3B The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant =
from the loaded faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.=
<br>&gt=3B That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing =
a seal.<br>&gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B From: Tom Felts<br>&gt=3B Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.<br>&=
gt=3B To: [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box =
and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B I have recently been hearing a "pop=
 pop" noise coming from the right front suspension area when making a slow =
full right turn.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I do not hear it when making a full t=
urn when the car is on concrete and is not moving.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I n=
oted this same condition on my E-Type also.  <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I have D=
ayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs.  <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I=
t is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=
=3B Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and=
 found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit =
flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn.  Thei=
r solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their probl=
em.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Question---------have any of you had this problem =
and if so what did you determine was the issue and how did you solve it?<br=
>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (as=
sume bad oil seal) and the dust excluder has disintegrated.  Is it possible=
 to replace these 2 items while the steering box is still in the car by rem=
oving the lower nut and steering lever?<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Thanks for any=
 help.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B tom<br>&gt=3B 65 BJ8<br>&gt=3B ________________=
_______________________________<br>&gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.=
net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B Archi=
ve: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/forum=
s<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B http://autox.team.n=
et/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage: http:/=
/autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B -=
------------- next part --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scr=
ubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attac=
hments/20150615/abfd2e58/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B --=
----------------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 13<br>&gt=3B Dat=
e: Tue=2C 16 Jun 2015 11:17:25 +1200<br>&gt=3B From: "Mark Donaldson" &lt=
=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: "'Bob Spidell'" &lt=3Bbsp=
[email-masked]&gt=3B=2C "'Healeys'"<br>&gt=3B 	&lt=[email-masked].=
net&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving 100<br>&gt=3B Message-ID=
: &lt=3B3436E3179A0841FEBAE8DB1D1860DDC0@MarkPC&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Typ=
e: text/plain=3B	charset=3D"us-ascii"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Bob=2C<br>&gt=3B=
 <br>&gt=3B Are you sure the wheel alignment is OK?<br>&gt=3B I have found =
that with even the slightest bit of toe out=2C my BN2 will be '<br>&gt=3B q=
uite lively'<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Mark<br>&gt=3B Ardmore=2C NZ<br>&gt=3B <b=
r>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -----Original Message-----<br>&gt=3B From: Bob Spidell =
[mailto:[email-masked]] <br>&gt=3B Sent: Monday=2C 15 June 2015 9:49 =
a.m.<br>&gt=3B To: Healeys<br>&gt=3B Subject: [Healeys] Driving 100<br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B Listers=2C<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Finally had a chance to put =
some miles on our BN2/100M resto.  Car <br>&gt=3B tracks straight and turns=
 well but feels somewhat 'squirrelly' or <br>&gt=3B 'twitchy' to me.  I'm u=
sed to driving a BJ8 with oversize (6") wheels <br>&gt=3B and 185/70 tires =
which feels like a land barge compared to the 100.  I <br>&gt=3B would expe=
ct a 100 to be a lot more nimble than a BJ8=2C but you have to <br>&gt=3B r=
eally stay on top of the car to stay out of the weeds.  We set up the <br>&=
gt=3B suspension ourselves=2C with nominal caster=2C camber and toe=2C but =
our tools <br>&gt=3B were somewhat crude and we may have screwed something =
up (particularly <br>&gt=3B the caster).<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Anyone driven=
 both cars a lot=2C can tell me if something might be wrong=2C <br>&gt=3B o=
r do I just have to stay on top of this car at all times (I know=2C <br>&gt=
=3B you're supposed to stay on top of ALL cars=2C but this one feels like i=
t <br>&gt=3B has no margin for sloppiness or inattentiveness at all)?<br>&g=
t=3B <br>&gt=3B TIA=2C<br>&gt=3B Bob<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&g=
t=3B <br>&gt=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message=
: 14<br>&gt=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 23:27:11 +0000 (UTC)<br>&gt=3B From=
: Bob Spidell &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: Mark Donaldson=
 &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Cc: healeys &lt=3Bhealeys=
@autox.team.net&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving 100<br>&gt=
=3B Message-ID:<br>&gt=3B 	&lt=3B1166609709.24671317.1434410831204.JavaMail=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"=
utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B We've only done the toe setting with crude 'too=
ls' (tape measure=2C mostly). <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Several have commented =
on toe-in/out being the possible cause=3B we'll check it first (won't be do=
wn there for a couple weeks). <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Thanks for all the repl=
ies. Now=2C back to oil ... <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Bob <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B=
 <br>&gt=3B ----- Original Message -----<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <b=
r>&gt=3B Bob=2C <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Are you sure the wheel alignment is O=
K? <br>&gt=3B I have found that with even the slightest bit of toe out=2C m=
y BN2 will be ' <br>&gt=3B quite lively' <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Mark <br>&gt=
=3B Ardmore=2C NZ <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -------------- next part=
 --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL:=
 &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/6a29719=
0/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -------------------------=
-----<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 15<br>&gt=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 2=
0:17:19 -0400<br>&gt=3B From: Rfbegani &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<b=
r>&gt=3B To: Michael &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Cc: "&l=
t=[email-masked]&gt=3B" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=
=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8<br>&g=
t=3B Message-ID: &lt=[email-masked]&g=
t=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>=
&gt=3B Mike<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B While I am not as experienced regarding re=
storing and repairing Healeys as you and so many on this list when I review=
ed the features and benefits mentioned in the tech spec and saw they were u=
sing thixotropic and polymeric properties I was convinced they were able to=
 improve on classic  lube mixes because solder and thread compounds paste t=
ype products I sold to industry for many years used such technology.  They =
were created by a u of Chicago phd. As you all will see if you look at the =
video in a semi liquid state sticks to the gear surfaces when lube is neede=
d If my steering box becomes a leaker will try JD grease first before disas=
sembly.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Regards<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Bob Begani<br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B Sent from my iPhone<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B On Jun 15=2C=
 2015=2C at 7:11 PM=2C Michael &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B wrote:<=
br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Hi Bob and thanks for pointing that out.=
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I have watched the John Deere video on their grease and m=
ust say that it has definitely made me reconsider what I was taught in my e=
ngineering classes so many years ago.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Really looks like ne=
at stuff and next time I encounter a leaking steering box I intend to give =
it to try.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B &=
gt=3B From: Auto Farm<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 7:04 p.m.<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B To: 'Michael'=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Subject=
: RE: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B=
 <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B                Mike=2C while I would whole heartedly agr=
ee that grease is not a good lubricant for steering boxes=2C or any gearbox=
 for that matter=2C the John Deere ?grease? that is refered to is quite dif=
ferent and specifically designed for gearboxes.  It is formulated for gear =
teeth under much higher loads than our steering boxes will ever encounter=
=2C and covers the teeth with a visible oily coating.  We have been using i=
t for several years with very good results and no steering box failures?.. =
or leaking.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Cheers?Bob Yule Autofarm Ltd.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B=
  <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] O=
n Behalf Of Michael<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Sent: June-15-15 8:11 AM<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B To: [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stee=
ring Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B  <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B =
With all due respects to those recommending it for steering boxes grease is=
 not a satisfactory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.<br>&gt=3B =
&gt=3B The reason is very simple.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B The pressure on the gear=
 teeth will displace the lubricant from the loaded faces so that lubricant =
must be a liquid to be replenished.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B That is why the design=
ers went to all the trouble of installing a seal.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Michael =
S<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B From: Tom Felts<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B To: [email-masked]=
et<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Question=
s--BJ8<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I have recently been hearing a "p=
op pop" noise coming from the right front suspension area when making a slo=
w full right turn.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I do not hear it when=
 making a full turn when the car is on concrete and is not moving.<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I noted this same condition on my E-Type also.=
  <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I have Dayton wire wheels on both and=
 relatively new hubs.  <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B It is not the sp=
inners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and=
 found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit =
flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn.  Thei=
r solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their probl=
em.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Question---------have any of you had=
 this problem and if so what did you determine was the issue and how did yo=
u solve it?<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Question #2------The BJ8 ste=
ering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil seal) and the dust excluder has di=
sintegrated.  Is it possible to replace these 2 items while the steering bo=
x is still in the car by removing the lower nut and steering lever?<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Thanks for any help.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B tom<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B 65 BJ8<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B ___________________=
____________________________<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.t=
eam.net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&=
gt=3B &gt=3B Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: =
http://www.team.net/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Healeys@autox=
.team.net<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<b=
r>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net=
/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B _______________________________________________<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B=
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Suggeste=
d annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Archive: http://www.team.net/arc=
hive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <=
br>&gt=3B &gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Unsubscribe=
/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]=
et<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -------------- next part --------------<br>&=
gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.=
team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/68ad82b9/attachment-0001.ht=
ml&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>=
&gt=3B Message: 16<br>&gt=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 17:26:56 -0700<br>&gt=
=3B From: "George" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: "'Kimo Bris=
ke'" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B=2C "'Healeys'"<br>&gt=3B 	&lt=3Bheale=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Recommendation on =
sale<br>&gt=3B Message-ID: &lt=3B01c201d0a7cb$2886d8b0$79948a10$@com&gt=3B<=
br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=
=3B It appears useless for a Healey. <br>&gt=3B Oldest vehicle year that on=
e can choose to list is 1993.<br>&gt=3B  <br>&gt=3B George Castleberry<br>&=
gt=3B Flagstaff=2C AZ<br>&gt=3B 54 BN1<br>&gt=3B 59AN5<br>&gt=3B  <br>&gt=
=3B From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Kimo=
 Briske<br>&gt=3B Sent: Monday=2C June 15=2C 2015 2:48 PM<br>&gt=3B To: Hea=
leys<br>&gt=3B Subject: [Healeys] Recommendation on sale<br>&gt=3B  <br>&gt=
=3B I was contacted by sellernetworks.com to list my BT7. Does anyone have =
experence with them ? Thanks=2C Jim<br>&gt=3B -------------- next part ----=
----------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=
=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/72bc5598/at=
tachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -----------------------------=
-<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 17<br>&gt=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 22:36=
:33 -0400<br>&gt=3B From: Tom Felts &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>=
&gt=3B To: [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B Subject: [Healeys] Steering Lev=
er Removal Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B Message-ID: &lt=3B20150615223633.YVPFE.=
8833.root@pamxwww07-z01&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=
=3Dutf-8<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering =
lever while the whole mess is still in the car.  I've loosened the big nut =
that holds the lever on.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I have pulled as much oil out=
 of the box as I can.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Before I try getting this thing =
off=2C I assume some of the steering arms must be removed (?)<br>&gt=3B <br=
>&gt=3B Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what =
should be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----wh=
ich seems to be quite fixed at the moment.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B thanks<br>&=
gt=3B tom<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ------------------------------<br=
>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 18<br>&gt=3B Date: Mon=2C 15 Jun 2015 22:50:50 =
-0400<br>&gt=3B From: Michael Salter &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br=
>&gt=3B To: Tom Felts &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Cc: "he=
[email-masked]" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject:=
 Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B Message-ID:<=
br>&gt=3B 	&lt=3BCAB3i7L+g5x7xn2C_NM3L8fuhd2mJT6=3D13rsOCJJYpX_r2q7W4g@mail=
.gmail.com&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br=
>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Tom=2C<br>&gt=3B I'm not sure if this will be of much he=
lp but it may be worth reading<br>&gt=3B through.<br>&gt=3B http://www.netb=
ug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967<br>&gt=3B I would not think that it is necessar=
y to remove the center or side rod<br>&gt=3B from the lever as they should =
not prevent you from lifting the lever away<br>&gt=3B from the box ONCE you=
 get it released from the tapered spline..<br>&gt=3B I however would recomm=
end that you put a couple of beers in the fridge<br>&gt=3B about now.<br>&g=
t=3B <br>&gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B On Mon=2C=
 Jun 15=2C 2015 at 10:36 PM=2C Tom Felts &lt=[email-masked]&gt=
=3B wrote:<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I'm starting to "try" to remove the =
steering lever while the whole mess is<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B still in the car.  =
I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Before I try getting this thing off=2C I assume some o=
f the steering arms<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B must be removed (?)<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<b=
r>&gt=3B &gt=3B Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list =
of what should<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B be disconnected prior to trying to get the =
steering lever off?----which<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B seems to be quite fixed at th=
e moment.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B thanks<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B tom<br>=
&gt=3B &gt=3B _______________________________________________<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Sugge=
sted annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Archive: http://www.team.net/=
archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Unsubscr=
ibe/Manage:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/=
[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B -- <br>&gt=3B *If you can't fix it with a hammer=2C you've g=
ot an electrical problem.*<br>&gt=3B -------------- next part -------------=
-<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://=
autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/9c2fda5e/attachment-0=
001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 19<br>&gt=3B Date: Tue=2C 16 Jun 2015 08:43:33 +010=
0<br>&gt=3B From: Derek Job &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To:=
 Michael Salter &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Cc: "healeys@=
autox.team.net" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [=
Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B Message-ID:<br>&gt=
=3B 	&lt=3BCAAh8et=3DcY6o7U43BSt7ptaDf9c2-TO0+6PDdzJ_h6KWL=[email-masked]=
il.com&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B The list is confusing me a little at present as there seems =
to be several<br>&gt=3B different threads on this subject=2C some of them s=
plit into two or three<br>&gt=3B parts.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B As I mentioned=
 previously I just replaced my steering arm and seal last<br>&gt=3B week an=
d I did it with the box still in the car. You need to first<br>&gt=3B disco=
nnect the side and centre rods from the arm. It is best if you use a<br>&gt=
=3B ball joint separator to do this as the ends are tapered and remain tigh=
tly<br>&gt=3B in position after you have removed the nuts.<br>&gt=3B <br>&g=
t=3B The most difficult thing is removal of the arm itself as it is attache=
d to<br>&gt=3B the splined and tapered end of the steering rocker. It will =
be very tight<br>&gt=3B it is best to use a puller to remove it. The proble=
m is that there is very<br>&gt=3B little room to get the puller into positi=
on. It will depend on the shape<br>&gt=3B and size of the puller. I managed=
 to do it with the puller I purchased but<br>&gt=3B it was a bit of a strug=
gle and I had to use it in a position that was not<br>&gt=3B exactly perpen=
dicular. If you can get a good grip a couple of turns on the<br>&gt=3B end =
of the puller will free the arm easily. Replace the seal where you are<br>&=
gt=3B there.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Assembly is the reverse of the above.<br>=
&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Derek<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B On Tue=2C Jun 16=2C 2015 at 3:=
50 AM=2C Michael Salter &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B wrote=
:<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Tom=2C<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I'm not sure if this =
will be of much help but it may be worth reading<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B through.<=
br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod=
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B from the lever as they should not prevent you from liftin=
g the lever away<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B from the box ONCE you get it released fro=
m the tapered spline..<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I however would recommend that you =
put a couple of beers in the fridge<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B about now.<br>&gt=3B &=
gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B=
<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 10:36 PM=2C Tom Felts &lt=3Bt=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B wrote:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&g=
t=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while =
the whole mess<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B is still in the car.  I've loosened t=
he big nut that holds the lever on.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B=
&gt=3B I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&=
gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Before I try getting this thing off=2C I assum=
e some of the steering arms<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B must be removed (?)<br>&=
gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Does anyone who has done this whi=
le on the car have a list of what should<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B be disconne=
cted prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B&gt=3B seems to be quite fixed at the moment.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>=
&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B thanks<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B tom<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=
=3B _______________________________________________<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B =
gested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Archive: http://www.t=
eam.net/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<b=
r>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B &=
gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=
=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<b=
r>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B --<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B *If you can't fix it with a hammer=
=2C you've got an electrical problem.*<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br=
>&gt=3B &gt=3B _______________________________________________<br>&gt=3B &g=
t=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Sugg=
ested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Archive: http://www.team.net=
/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Unsubscr=
ibe/Manage:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/=
[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br=
>&gt=3B -------------- next part --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachmen=
t was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/heal=
eys/attachments/20150616/73e960c5/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>=
&gt=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 20<br>&=
gt=3B Date: Tue=2C 16 Jun 2015 08:51:15 -0400<br>&gt=3B From: Michael &lt=
=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: Tom Felts &lt=3Btomfelts@wi=
ndstream.net&gt=3B=2C  "[email-masked]"<br>&gt=3B 	&lt=3BHealeys@au=
tox.team.net&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal =
Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B Message-ID: &lt=[email-masked]=
oogle.com&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>=
&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Hi Tom=2C<br>&gt=3B I don't want to discourage you from t=
rying but in my experience the factory used to really tighten the big nut t=
o ensure that the lever would not come loose on the rocker shaft.<br>&gt=3B=
 As I mentioned in my post http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967<br>&g=
t=3B they are often so tight that the pressure required to separate them is=
 sufficient to crush the end of the shaft or=2C if the puller isn't straigh=
t=2C actually bend the threaded section of the shaft.<br>&gt=3B I would cau=
tion you against trying to wedge something between the body of the steering=
 box and the lever as the box is not very strong and is easily broken.<br>&=
gt=3B If you can get the 3 mounting bolts out=2C separate the side and cent=
er rod ball joints and loosen the U clamp under the dash it is possible to =
rotate the box enough to get the puller described in my blog into position.=
 This saves having to remove the turn signal switch=2C steering wheel=2C an=
d grille so is worth the effort.<br>&gt=3B Someone on the list gave the num=
ber for the seals that have worked for me many times.<br>&gt=3B Once you ha=
ve the lever off it is relatively easy to remove the lid and then the rocke=
r shaft.<br>&gt=3B For an exceptional job it's not that expensive to have t=
he area of the rocker shaft where the seal rides built up with "hard chrome=
" and ground back to size.<br>&gt=3B Good luck....maybe you will be lucky a=
nd find that someone has had the lever off previously and tightened the nut=
 a little less enthusiastically that the factory guys.<br>&gt=3B Michael S<=
br>&gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -----Original Message-----<br>&gt=
=3B From: "Tom Felts" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Sent: ?=
16/?06/?2015 8:22 a.m.<br>&gt=3B To: "Michael Salter" &lt=3Bmichaelsalter@g=
mail.com&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Ques=
tions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B More like a refridg full of beers!!:)  Do y=
ou think that puller can be used while the rack is still mounted in the car=
?  I'm not to keen on taking the whole thing out.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I ma=
y end up draining as much old oil out as I can and refilling with JD cornhe=
ad grease.  Assume mixing a little won't be a problem?<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B=
 Thanks----appreciate the info.<br>&gt=3B tom<br>&gt=3B ---- Michael Salter=
 &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B wrote: <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B =3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>&gt=3B Tom=2C<br>&gt=3B I'm not sure if t=
his will be of much help but it may be worth reading<br>&gt=3B through.<br>=
&gt=3B http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967<br>&gt=3B I would not thi=
nk that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod<br>&gt=3B from the=
 lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever away<br>&gt=3B=
 from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..<br>&gt=3B =
I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge<br>&=
gt=3B about now.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B On Mon=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 10:36 PM=2C Tom Felts &lt=3Btomf=
[email-masked]&gt=3B wrote:<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I'm starting t=
o "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess is<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B still in the car.  I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.<b=
r>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I have pulled as much oil out of the box a=
s I can.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Before I try getting this thing =
off=2C I assume some of the steering arms<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B must be removed =
(?)<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Does anyone who has done this while o=
n the car have a list of what should<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B be disconnected prior=
 to trying to get the steering lever off?----which<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B seems t=
o be quite fixed at the moment.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B thanks<br=
>&gt=3B &gt=3B tom<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B _______________________________________=
________<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Archive=
: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/=
forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &=
gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&g=
t=3B &gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mail=
man/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -- <br>&gt=3B *If you can't fix it with=
 a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.*<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ------=
-------- next part --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed=
...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachment=
s/20150616/77b9c370/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -------=
-----------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Message: 21<br>&gt=3B Date: Tu=
e=2C 16 Jun 2015 14:42:07 +0100<br>&gt=3B From: Derek Job &lt=3Bderek.c.job=
@gmail.com&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To: Michael &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B=
<br>&gt=3B Cc: "[email-masked]" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<=
br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8<br>&=
gt=3B Message-ID:<br>&gt=3B 	&lt=3BCAAh8etmCi8E8dr4-xAsTdA3yzN6e3diBLTMKP5C=
[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B char=
set=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B This what I used=2C it is from the UK bu=
t no doubt you can get something<br>&gt=3B similar in the US. If it doesn't=
 work you could try rotating the box as<br>&gt=3B suggested by Michael=2C w=
hich should give easier access.<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B http://www.auravita.co=
m/product/65mm-Reach-x-75mm-Spread-Twin-Leg-Reversible-Puller-13906-Draper.=
JSOB17033.html?RefId=3D225&amp=3Badid=3DJSOB17033&amp=3Bgclid=3DCj0KEQjwkv-=
rBRDwoMLav-2l9KIBEiQAUTkDU0-EPWV8xUEkXt-NZEjq91sZ5M9oDZ_dPH84PmYtURwaAuKb8P=
8HAQ<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B On Tue=2C Jun 16=2C 2015 at 1:51 PM=2C Michael &l=
t=[email-masked]&gt=3B wrote:<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Hi To=
m=2C<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I don't want to discourage you from trying but in my =
experience the<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B factory used to really tighten the big nut =
to ensure that the lever would<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B not come loose on the rocke=
r shaft.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B As I mentioned in my post http://www.netbug.net/b=
logmichael/?p=3D967<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B they are often so tight that the press=
ure required to separate them is<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B sufficient to crush the e=
nd of the shaft or=2C if the puller isn't straight=2C<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B actu=
ally bend the threaded section of the shaft.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I would cauti=
on you against trying to wedge something between the body of<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B the steering box and the lever as the box is not very strong and is eas=
ily<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B broken.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B If you can get the 3 mounting=
 bolts out=2C separate the side and center rod<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B ball joints=
 and loosen the U clamp under the dash it is possible to rotate<br>&gt=3B &=
gt=3B the box enough to get the puller described in my blog into position. =
This<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B saves having to remove the turn signal switch=2C stee=
ring wheel=2C and grille<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B so is worth the effort.<br>&gt=3B=
 &gt=3B Someone on the list gave the number for the seals that have worked =
for me<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B many times.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Once you have the leve=
r off it is relatively easy to remove the lid and<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B then the=
 rocker shaft.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B For an exceptional job it's not that expens=
ive to have the area of the<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B rocker shaft where the seal ri=
des built up with "hard chrome" and ground<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B back to size.<b=
r>&gt=3B &gt=3B Good luck....maybe you will be lucky and find that someone =
has had the<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B lever off previously and tightened the nut a l=
ittle less enthusiastically<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B that the factory guys.<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B Michael S<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B -----------=
-------------------<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B From: Tom Felts &lt=3Btomfelts@windstr=
eam.net&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Sent: ?16/?06/?2015 8:22 a.m.<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B To: Michael Salter &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B=
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B More like a refridg full of beers!!:)  Do you think th=
at puller can be<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B used while the rack is still mounted in t=
he car?  I'm not to keen on taking<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B the whole thing out.<br=
>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I may end up draining as much old oil out a=
s I can and refilling with JD<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B cornhead grease.  Assume mix=
ing a little won't be a problem?<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Thanks--=
--appreciate the info.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B tom<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B ---- Michael S=
alter &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B wrote:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B=
 &gt=3B =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B =
&gt=3B Tom=2C<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I'm not sure if this will be of much help bu=
t it may be worth reading<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B through.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http:/=
/www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I would not think tha=
t it is necessary to remove the center or side rod<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B from th=
e lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever away<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..<=
br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers i=
n the fridge<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B about now.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B =
Michael S<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B BN1 #174<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B On Mo=
n=2C Jun 15=2C 2015 at 10:36 PM=2C Tom Felts &lt=[email-masked]&=
gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B wrote:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B I'm =
starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B is<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B still in the car.  I've loosened the =
big nut that holds the lever on.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &=
gt=3B I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &=
gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B Before I try getting this thing off=2C I assu=
me some of the steering arms<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B must be removed (?)<br=
>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B Does anyone who has done this=
 while on the car have a list of what should<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B be dis=
connected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which<br>&gt=3B=
 &gt=3B &gt=3B seems to be quite fixed at the moment.<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=
=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B thanks<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B tom<br>&gt=3B &g=
t=3B &gt=3B _______________________________________________<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B &gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B &gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B Archiv=
e: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.t=
eam.net/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B Healeys@auto=
x.team.net<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/h=
ealeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage:<=
br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/micha=
[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B --<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B *If you ca=
n't fix it with a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.*<br>&gt=3B &g=
t=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B ____________________________________=
___________<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.ht=
ml<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Arch=
ive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.n=
et/forums<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<=
br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net=
/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &=
gt=3B<br>&gt=3B &gt=3B<br>&gt=3B -------------- next part --------------<br=
>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://auto=
x.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150616/cbbceff2/attachment-0001.=
html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ------------------------------<br>&gt=3B <b=
r>&gt=3B Message: 22<br>&gt=3B Date: Tue=2C 16 Jun 2015 09:46:12 -0400 (EDT=
)<br>&gt=3B From: Tim Davis BN7 &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B To:=
 Derek Job &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Cc: [email-masked]=
am.net=2C Michael &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B Subject: R=
e: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8<br>&gt=3B Message-ID:<br=
>&gt=3B 	&lt=[email-masked]&g=
t=3B<br>&gt=3B Content-Type: text/plain=3B charset=3D"utf-8"<br>&gt=3B <br>=
&gt=3B Get the Pitman arm puller <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ----- Original Messa=
ge -----<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B From: "Derek Job" &lt=[email-masked]=
&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B To: "Michael" &lt=[email-masked]&gt=3B <br>&g=
t=3B Cc: [email-masked] <br>&gt=3B Sent: Tuesday=2C June 16=2C 2015=
 8:42:07 AM <br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questi=
ons--BJ8 <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B This what I used=2C it is from the UK but no=
 doubt you can get something similar in the US. If it doesn't work you coul=
d try rotating the box as suggested by Michael=2C which should give easier =
access. <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B http://www.auravita.com/product/65mm-Reach-x-=
75mm-Spread-Twin-Leg-Reversible-Puller-13906-Draper.JSOB17033.html?RefId=3D=
225&amp=3Badid=3DJSOB17033&amp=3Bgclid=3DCj0KEQjwkv-rBRDwoMLav-2l9KIBEiQAUT=
kDU0-EPWV8xUEkXt-NZEjq91sZ5M9oDZ_dPH84PmYtURwaAuKb8P8HAQ <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=
=3B On Tue=2C Jun 16=2C 2015 at 1:51 PM=2C Michael &lt=3B michael.salter@gm=
ail.com &gt=3B wrote: <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Hi Tom=2C=
 <br>&gt=3B I don't want to discourage you from trying but in my experience=
 the factory used to really tighten the big nut to ensure that the lever wo=
uld not come loose on the rocker shaft. <br>&gt=3B As I mentioned in my pos=
t http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967 <br>&gt=3B they are often so t=
ight that the pressure required to separate them is sufficient to crush the=
 end of the shaft or=2C if the puller isn't straight=2C actually bend the t=
hreaded section of the shaft. <br>&gt=3B I would caution you against trying=
 to wedge something between the body of the steering box and the lever as t=
he box is not very strong and is easily broken. <br>&gt=3B If you can get t=
he 3 mounting bolts out=2C separate the side and center rod ball joints and=
 loosen the U clamp under the dash it is possible to rotate the box enough =
to get the puller described in my blog into position. This saves having to =
remove the turn signal switch=2C steering wheel=2C and grille so is worth t=
he effort. <br>&gt=3B Someone on the list gave the number for the seals tha=
t have worked for me many times. <br>&gt=3B Once you have the lever off it =
is relatively easy to remove the lid and then the rocker shaft. <br>&gt=3B =
For an exceptional job it's not that expensive to have the area of the rock=
er shaft where the seal rides built up with "hard chrome" and ground back t=
o size. <br>&gt=3B Good luck....maybe you will be lucky and find that someo=
ne has had the lever off previously and tightened the nut a little less ent=
husiastically that the factory guys. <br>&gt=3B Michael S <br>&gt=3B BN1 #1=
74 <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B From: Tom Felts <br>&gt=3B Sent: ?16/?06/?2015 8:2=
2 a.m. <br>&gt=3B To: Michael Salter <br>&gt=3B Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stee=
ring Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B More like a refridg=
 full of beers!!:) Do you think that puller can be used while the rack is s=
till mounted in the car? I'm not to keen on taking the whole thing out. <br=
>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B I may end up draining as much old oil out as I can and r=
efilling with JD cornhead grease. Assume mixing a little won't be a problem=
? <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Thanks----appreciate the info. <br>&gt=3B tom <br>&=
gt=3B ---- Michael Salter &lt=3B [email-masked] &gt=3B wrote: <br>=
&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D <br>&gt=3B <br>&g=
t=3B Tom=2C <br>&gt=3B I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may=
 be worth reading <br>&gt=3B through. <br>&gt=3B http://www.netbug.net/blog=
michael/?p=3D967 <br>&gt=3B I would not think that it is necessary to remov=
e the center or side rod <br>&gt=3B from the lever as they should not preve=
nt you from lifting the lever away <br>&gt=3B from the box ONCE you get it =
released from the tapered spline.. <br>&gt=3B I however would recommend tha=
t you put a couple of beers in the fridge <br>&gt=3B about now. <br>&gt=3B =
<br>&gt=3B Michael S <br>&gt=3B BN1 #174 <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B On Mon=2C Ju=
n 15=2C 2015 at 10:36 PM=2C Tom Felts &lt=3B [email-masked] &gt=3B=
 wrote: <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B I'm starting to "try" to remove the st=
eering lever while the whole mess is <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B still in the car. I'=
ve loosened the big nut that holds the lever on. <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can. <br>&gt=3B &g=
t=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Before I try getting this thing off=2C I assume some=
 of the steering arms <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B must be removed (?) <br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a=
 list of what should <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B be disconnected prior to trying to g=
et the steering lever off?----which <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B seems to be quite fix=
ed at the moment. <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B thanks <br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B tom <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B _______________________________________________ <=
br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html <br>&gt=
=3B &gt=3B Suggested annual donation $12.75 <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Archive: http=
://www.team.net/archive <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/forum=
s <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B [email-masked] <br>&gt=3B &gt=
=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&g=
t=3B &gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage: <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mai=
lman/options/healeys/[email-masked] <br>&gt=3B &gt=3B <br>&gt=3B &=
gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -- <br>&gt=3B *If you can't fix it w=
ith a hammer=2C you've got an electrical problem.* <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <b=
r>&gt=3B _______________________________________________ <br>&gt=3B Support=
 Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html <br>&gt=3B Suggested annual donat=
ion $12.75 <br>&gt=3B Archive: http://www.team.net/archive <br>&gt=3B Forum=
s: http://www.team.net/forums <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B [email-masked] =
<br>&gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <br>&gt=3B <br>&g=
t=3B Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dere=
[email-masked] <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <b=
r>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ____________________________________________=
___ <br>&gt=3B Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html <br>&gt=3B =
chive <br>&gt=3B Forums: http://www.team.net/forums <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B H=
[email-masked] <br>&gt=3B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/hea=
leys <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailma=
n/options/healeys/[email-masked] <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ------=
-------- next part --------------<br>&gt=3B An HTML attachment was scrubbed=
...<br>&gt=3B URL: &lt=3Bhttp://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachment=
s/20150616/d4ca8bc6/attachment-0001.html&gt=3B<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B -------=
-----------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B Subject: Digest Footer<br>&gt=
=3B <br>&gt=3B _______________________________________________<br>&gt=3B He=
aleys mailing list<br>&gt=3B [email-masked]<br>&gt=3B http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B ---------=
---------------------<br>&gt=3B <br>&gt=3B End of Healeys Digest=2C Vol 8=
=2C Issue 170<br>&gt=3B ***************************************<br></div> 	=
	 	   		  </div></body>
</html>=

--_71e7c5d0-d4be-49ba-9273-fa0ebaa0fa91_--

--===============7057727725365364652==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

--===============7057727725365364652==--