Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil weight

From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 16:33:42 -0400

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I believe in an earlier message someone said that they use Rotella diesel
oil to get the desired zinc, etc. levels.  Rotella--and other similar HD
diesel lubes--have also had their zinc, etc. levels limited by EPA
standards and are not what they used to be.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, Jun 10, 2015 at 4:08 PM, Albert Seminatore <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> The following is a response from Castrol regarding the best oil to use for
> classics.  For me this clarified a lot of what I heard but didn't know the
> reasons.  Hope this helps others.
>
>
>
> Classic cars with flat tappet cam engines represent a special case in
> regards to engine oil lubrication. These engines have valve train
> configurations that require elevated levels of ZDDP (zinc dialkyl
> dithiophosphate) anti-wear for proper protection of the flat tappet
> camshaft and its lifters. Insufficient concentration of ZDDP will lead to
> premature wear and failure of the camshaft and lifters. Current GF-4 and
> GF-5 fuel economy grade engine oils are designed for extended life of the
> catalytic convertors in modern passenger cars and have industry mandated
> limitations on the amount of sulfur and phosphorus within the oil.
>
>
>
> Only Castrol EDGE 5W-50 has a boosted level of ZDDP (1250 ppm) to help
> protect flat tappet cam engines in classic cars. This engine oil is a full
> synthetic, has excellent cold temperature properties, and has a high
> temperature viscosity (SAE 50) that is suitable for use in many classic car
> applications.
>
>
>
> Castrol EDGE 0W-30 oil is not recommended for use in a flat tappet cam
> engine.
>
>
>
> Castrol always recommends following the guidelines of the engine
> manufacturer for the recommended oil (i.e. SAE grade, API rating and
> manufacturer specifications) specific to your application or please consult
> your mechanic as to the suitability of the 5W-50 viscosity grade in your
> engine.
>
>
>
> Thank you again for contacting Castrol, we value your patronage!
>
>
> Castrol Consumer Relations
>
> --
> Albert Seminatore
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
> eMail:  [email-masked]
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">I bel=
ieve in an earlier message someone said that they use Rotella diesel oil to=
 get the desired zinc, etc. levels.=C2=A0 Rotella--and other similar HD die=
sel lubes--have also had their zinc, etc. levels limited by EPA standards a=
nd are not what they used to be.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D=
"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333=
ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"g=
mail_quote">On Wed, Jun 10, 2015 at 4:08 PM, Albert Seminatore <span dir=3D=
"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">alsemus1@=
gmail.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=
=3D"ltr"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>The following is a response from Cast=
rol regarding the best oil to use for classics.=C2=A0 For me this clarified=
 a lot of what I heard but didn&#39;t know the reasons.=C2=A0 Hope this hel=
ps others.<span style=3D"background-color:rgb(56,118,29)"><span></span></sp=
an><br></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><br></span></p><br><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Classic
 cars with flat tappet cam engines represent a special case in regards=20
to engine oil lubrication. These engines have valve train configurations
 that require elevated levels of ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate)=20
anti-wear for proper protection of the flat tappet camshaft and its=20
lifters. Insufficient concentration of ZDDP will lead to premature wear=20
and failure of the camshaft and lifters. Current GF-4 and GF-5 fuel=20
economy grade engine oils are designed for extended life of the=20
catalytic convertors in modern passenger cars and have industry mandated
 limitations on the amount of sulfur and phosphorus within the oil. </span>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>=C2=A0</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><s=
pan>Only
 Castrol EDGE 5W-50 has a boosted level of ZDDP (1250 ppm) to help=20
protect flat tappet cam engines in classic cars. This engine oil is a=20
full synthetic, has excellent cold temperature properties, and has a=20
high temperature viscosity (SAE 50) that is suitable for use in many=20
classic car applications.</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>=C2=A0</sp=
an></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Castrol EDGE 0W-30 oil is not recommend=
ed for use in a flat tappet cam engine.</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><s=
pan>=C2=A0</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Castrol
 always recommends following the guidelines of the engine manufacturer=20
for the recommended oil (i.e. SAE grade, API rating and manufacturer=20
specifications) specific to your application or please consult your=20
mechanic as to the suitability of the 5W-50 viscosity grade in your=20
engine.</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>=C2=A0</span></p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal"><span>Thank you again for contacting Castrol, we value your pat=
ronage!</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>=C2=A0</span></p><span>Castr=
ol Consumer Relations</span><span><font color=3D"#888888"><span><br clear=
=3D"all"></span><br>-- <span style=3D"background-color:rgb(243,243,243)"><s=
pan><span style=3D"background-color:rgb(238,238,238)"><span style=3D"backgr=
ound-color:rgb(243,243,243)"></span></span></span></span><br><div><div dir=
=3D"ltr"><div><div><span style=3D"font-family:garamond,serif">Albert Semina=
tore</span><br></div>Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV<br></div>eMail:=C2=A0 <a h=
ref=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><=
br></div></div>
</font></span></div>
<br>_______________________________________________<br>
nk">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br></div></div>

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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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---

From: Richard Collins <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 17:52:23 -0500

Anyone other than me using Brad-Penn 20w-50 semi-synthetic in their Healeys?

Regards,
Richard Of Kentucky
BN7 440

[email-masked]

---

From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:13:19 +1000

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G=E2=80=99day

=20

I must be missing something here as I cannot understand why anyone would =
want to use the grades of oil being mentioned.

=20

Let=E2=80=99s face it, no matter how finely we rebuild the engines of =
our Austin-Healeys they remain an a design of 1950s or earlier. =
Therefore any lubricant used should be designed for that age of design. =
Okay I know that lubricants have improved dramatically, but have a look =
at the recommendations in the handbook.

=20

No way should you use oils designed for modern cars. Have a look around =
as there are a number of companies around the world that cater for our =
cars. I use Penrite which is either made here in Australia or in the UK.

=20

Have a look at this:

=20

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Jan2014/Product_Catalogue_VV =
<http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Jan2014/Product_Catalogue_VV&=
C.pdf> &C.pdf

=20

Then have a look the Penrite website for all the other specialised =
lubricants they make for older vehicles.

=20

Hoo Roo

=20

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

=20

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-AU link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>G=E2=80=99day<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>I must be missing =
something here as I cannot understand why anyone would want to use the =
grades of oil being mentioned.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Let=E2=80=99s face =
it, no matter how finely we rebuild the engines of our Austin-Healeys =
they remain an a design of 1950s or earlier. Therefore any lubricant =
used should be designed for that age of design. Okay I know that =
lubricants have improved dramatically, but have a look at the =
recommendations in the handbook.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>No way should you use =
oils designed for modern cars. Have a look around as there are a number =
of companies around the world that cater for our cars. I use Penrite =
which is either made here in Australia or in the =
UK.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Have a look at =
this:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><a =
href=3D"http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Jan2014/Product_Catalo=
gue_VV&amp;C.pdf">http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Jan2014/Prod=
uct_Catalogue_VV&amp;C.pdf</a><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Then have a look the =
Penrite website for all the other specialised lubricants they make for =
older vehicles.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Hoo =
Roo<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Patrick =
Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Blue Mountains, =
Australia</span><o:p></o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 17:22:11 -0700

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Damn!  Wish I'd known that 130,000 miles ago when I started using 
'modern' oil.

On 6/10/2015 5:13 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
>
> G’day
>
> I must be missing something here as I cannot understand why anyone 
> would want to use the grades of oil being mentioned.
>
> Let’s face it, no matter how finely we rebuild the engines of our 
> Austin-Healeys they remain an a design of 1950s or earlier. Therefore 
> any lubricant used should be designed for that age of design. Okay I 
> know that lubricants have improved dramatically, but have a look at 
> the recommendations in the handbook.
>
> No way should you use oils designed for modern cars. Have a look 
> around as there are a number of companies around the world that cater 
> for our cars. I use Penrite which is either made here in Australia or 
> in the UK.
>
> Have a look at this:
>
> http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Jan2014/Product_Catalogue_VV&C.pdf
>
> Then have a look the Penrite website for all the other specialised 

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    Damn!  Wish I'd known that 130,000 miles ago when I started using
    'modern' oil.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/10/2015 5:13 PM, Patrick &amp;
      Caroline Quinn wrote:<br>
    </div>
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      type="cite">
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">G’day<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">I must be
            missing something here as I cannot understand why anyone
            would want to use the grades of oil being mentioned.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">Let’s face
            it, no matter how finely we rebuild the engines of our
            Austin-Healeys they remain an a design of 1950s or earlier.
            Therefore any lubricant used should be designed for that age
            of design. Okay I know that lubricants have improved
            dramatically, but have a look at the recommendations in the
            handbook.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">No way
            should you use oils designed for modern cars. Have a look
            around as there are a number of companies around the world
            that cater for our cars. I use Penrite which is either made
            here in Australia or in the UK.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">Have a look
            at this:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt"><a
              moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Jan2014/Product_Catalogue_VV&amp;C.pdf">http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Jan2014/Product_Catalogue_VV&amp;C.pdf</a><o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">Then have a
            look the Penrite website for all the other specialised
            lubricants they make for older vehicles.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">Hoo Roo<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">Patrick
            Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">Blue
            Mountains, Australia</span><o:p></o:p></p>
        <div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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[email-masked]

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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:53:49 +1000

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G'day

I don't think you read was I said.

Not a problem using modern oils, but they should be oils formulated for
older engines.

Take for instance the oil for the gearbox. I certainly wouldn't use an oil
that contains a detergent.

Hoo Roo

Patrick

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Thursday, 11 June 2015 10:22 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil weight

Damn!  Wish I'd known that 130,000 miles ago when I started using 'modern'
oil.

G'day

I must be missing something here as I cannot understand why anyone would
want to use the grades of oil being mentioned.

Let's face it, no matter how finely we rebuild the engines of our
Austin-Healeys they remain an a design of 1950s or earlier. Therefore any
lubricant used should be designed for that age of design. Okay I know that
lubricants have improved dramatically, but have a look at the
recommendations in the handbook.

No way should you use oils designed for modern cars. Have a look around as
there are a number of companies around the world that cater for our cars. I
use Penrite which is either made here in Australia or in the UK.

Have a look at this:

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Jan2014/Product_Catalogue_VV
<http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Jan2014/Product_Catalogue_VV&C.p
df> &C.pdf

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn

 

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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=3Dwhite =
lang=3DEN-AU link=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>G&#8217;day<o:p></o:p></span>=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>I =
don&#8217;t think you read was I said.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Not a problem using modern =
oils, but they should be oils formulated for older =
engines.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Take for instance the oil =
for the gearbox. I certainly wouldn&#8217;t use an oil that contains a =
detergent.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Hoo =
Roo<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Patrick<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'> Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Bob Spidell<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, 11 June 2015 10:22 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] =
oil weight<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Damn!&nbsp; Wish I'd known that 130,000 =
miles ago when I started using 'modern' =
oil.<br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On 6/10/2015 =
5:13 PM, Patrick &amp; Caroline Quinn =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>G&#8217;day</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>I must be missing =
something here as I cannot understand why anyone would want to use the =
grades of oil being mentioned.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Let&#8217;s face it, =
no matter how finely we rebuild the engines of our Austin-Healeys they =
remain an a design of 1950s or earlier. Therefore any lubricant used =
should be designed for that age of design. Okay I know that lubricants =
have improved dramatically, but have a look at the recommendations in =
the handbook.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>No way should you use =
oils designed for modern cars. Have a look around as there are a number =
of companies around the world that cater for our cars. I use Penrite =
which is either made here in Australia or in the =
UK.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Have a look at =
this:</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><a =
href=3D"http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Jan2014/Product_Catalo=
gue_VV&amp;C.pdf">http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs_new/Jan2014/Prod=
uct_Catalogue_VV&amp;C.pdf</a></span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Then have a look the =
Penrite website for all the other specialised lubricants they make for =
older vehicles.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Hoo =
Roo</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Patrick =
Quinn</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Blue Mountains, =
Australia</span><o:p></o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Mitch <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 01:53:51 +0000 (UTC)

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I use it...............great oil=20
=C2=A0=20
Mitch=20

----- Original Message -----

From: "Richard Collins" <[email-masked]>=20
To: "Michael Oritt" <[email-masked]>=20
Cc: "Austin Healey" <[email-masked]>, "Albert Seminatore" <alsemus1=
@gmail.com>=20
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 6:52:23 PM=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil weight=20

Anyone other than me using Brad-Penn 20w-50 semi-synthetic in their Healeys=
?=20

Regards,=20
Richard Of Kentucky=20
BN7 440=20

_______________________________________________=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=20

[email-masked]=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys=20

comcast.net=20

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<html><body><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><DIV aria-label="Compose body">I use it...............great oil<BR></DIV>
<DIV aria-label="Compose body">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV aria-label="Compose body">Mitch</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<HR id=zwchr>

<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000; FONT-STYLE: normal" data-mce-style="color: #000; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><B>From: </B>"Richard Collins" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<BR><B>To: </B>"Michael Oritt" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<BR><B>Cc: </B>"Austin Healey" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;, "Albert Seminatore" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<BR><B>Sent: </B>Wednesday, June 10, 2015 6:52:23 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: [Healeys] oil weight<BR>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Anyone other than me using Brad-Penn 20w-50 semi-synthetic in their Healeys?<BR>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Regards,<BR>Richard Of Kentucky<BR>BN7 440<BR>
<DIV><BR></DIV><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<BR>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75<BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<BR>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<BR>
<DIV><BR></DIV>[email-masked]<BR>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<BR>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<BR>
<DIV><BR></DIV></DIV>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 20:32:43 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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--------------030404020409080400010907
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OK, I'll bite.  How, exactly, do you formulate an oil for an older 
engine (besides adding lots of ZDDP for flat tappet cams)?  Except for 
(possibly) looser clearances--not necessarily so if you have a good 
machinist--what is the difference between an older iron block and a 
newer one (I know many modern engines are Al), Al pistons, steel con 
rods, babbitt bearings, etc.

We are running modern oils in:

- a 1946 Chevy 2-ton truck
- a 1955 T-Bird
- a 1956 BN2/100M
- a 1965 Mustang (289)
- a 1967 BJ8 (that gets 4-5K miles/year and uses--drips, mostly--a quart 
of oil every 3,500 miles)

... with no issues with the oil whatsoever.  Sorry, but while I'm sure 
Pennrite is a good oil, unless you/they can tell me exactly what needs 
to be formulated for older engines it sounds like marketing blather to 
me.  If 'formulated for older engines' means you get lots of sludge and 
gunk in the pan thanks, but I'll pass.  I had the timing cover off my 
BJ8 to replace the seal the other day and was astounded at how clean it 
was; not a speck of crud (110,000 miles since the last rebuild).

Note there are strict requirements (per SAE) for oil viscosities, so 
20W-50 Pennrite is the same viscosity as 20W-50 KMart oil and, BTW, 
there's no good reason not to use a multi-vis oil; you're doing your top 
end a disservice every time you start the engine if you don't. I believe 
Pennrite makes a XXW-60 oil, which should give a little more oil 
pressure if your engine is oil pressure-challenged.

Any racers on the List care to chime in?  Richard M., aka 'Boy Racer,' 
are you on here?

Gearboxes?  No question, modern synthetics--like Redline MT-90--are 
hands down the best (if you can live with the leaking--I can).

Bob

ps.  I'm not trying to be antagonistic Patrick, I just don't buy the 
Pennrite line

On 6/10/2015 5:53 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
>
> G’day
>
> I don’t think you read was I said.
>
> Not a problem using modern oils, but they should be oils formulated 
> for older engines.
>
> Take for instance the oil for the gearbox. I certainly wouldn’t use an 
> oil that contains a detergent.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick
>
>

--------------030404020409080400010907
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    OK, I'll bite.  How, exactly, do you formulate an oil for an older
    engine (besides adding lots of ZDDP for flat tappet cams)?  Except
    for (possibly) looser clearances--not necessarily so if you have a
    good machinist--what is the difference between an older iron block
    and a newer one (I know many modern engines are Al), Al pistons,
    steel con rods, babbitt bearings, etc.  <br>
    <br>
    We are running modern oils in:<br>
    <br>
    - a 1946 Chevy 2-ton truck<br>
    - a 1955 T-Bird<br>
    - a 1956 BN2/100M<br>
    - a 1965 Mustang (289)<br>
    - a 1967 BJ8 (that gets 4-5K miles/year and uses--drips, mostly--a
    quart of oil every 3,500 miles)<br>
    <br>
    ... with no issues with the oil whatsoever.  Sorry, but while I'm
    sure Pennrite is a good oil, unless you/they can tell me exactly
    what needs to be formulated for older engines it sounds like
    marketing blather to me.  If 'formulated for older engines' means
    you get lots of sludge and gunk in the pan thanks, but I'll pass.  I
    had the timing cover off my BJ8 to replace the seal the other day
    and was astounded at how clean it was; not a speck of crud (110,000
    miles since the last rebuild).<br>
    <br>
    Note there are strict requirements (per SAE) for oil viscosities, so
    20W-50 Pennrite is the same viscosity as 20W-50 KMart oil and, BTW,
    there's no good reason not to use a multi-vis oil; you're doing your
    top end a disservice every time you start the engine if you don't. 
    I believe Pennrite makes a XXW-60 oil, which should give a little
    more oil pressure if your engine is oil pressure-challenged.<br>
    <br>
    Any racers on the List care to chime in?  Richard M., aka 'Boy
    Racer,' are you on here?<br>
    <br>
    Gearboxes?  No question, modern synthetics--like Redline MT-90--are
    hands down the best (if you can live with the leaking--I can).<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    ps.  I'm not trying to be antagonistic Patrick, I just don't buy the
    Pennrite line<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/10/2015 5:53 PM, Patrick &amp;
      Caroline Quinn wrote:<br>
    </div>
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        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
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        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext">I don’t think you
            read was I said.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext">Not a problem
            using modern oils, but they should be oils formulated for
            older engines.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext">Take for instance
            the oil for the gearbox. I certainly wouldn’t use an oil
            that contains a detergent.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
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        <br>
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[email-masked]

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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 14:42:27 +1000

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G'day

It's a good thing that I don't take a similar approach to subjects and
comments that come up on this list. For if I did I would be spending all day
responding to the idiotic, ill-informed and close to slanderous comments
that some people foolishly make.

Luckily I have more relevant things to do with my life so perhaps it's time
to move on.

See ya!

Patrick Quinn

From: Bob Spidell [mailto:[email-masked]] 
Sent: Thursday, 11 June 2015 1:33 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil weight

OK, I'll bite.  How, exactly, do you formulate an oil for an older engine
(besides adding lots of ZDDP for flat tappet cams)?  Except for (possibly)
looser clearances--not necessarily so if you have a good machinist--what is
the difference between an older iron block and a newer one (I know many
modern engines are Al), Al pistons, steel con rods, babbitt bearings, etc.  

- a 1946 Chevy 2-ton truck
- a 1955 T-Bird
- a 1956 BN2/100M
- a 1965 Mustang (289)
- a 1967 BJ8 (that gets 4-5K miles/year and uses--drips, mostly--a quart of
oil every 3,500 miles)

... with no issues with the oil whatsoever.  Sorry, but while I'm sure
Pennrite is a good oil, unless you/they can tell me exactly what needs to be
formulated for older engines it sounds like marketing blather to me.  If
'formulated for older engines' means you get lots of sludge and gunk in the
pan thanks, but I'll pass.  I had the timing cover off my BJ8 to replace the
seal the other day and was astounded at how clean it was; not a speck of
crud (110,000 miles since the last rebuild).

Note there are strict requirements (per SAE) for oil viscosities, so 20W-50
Pennrite is the same viscosity as 20W-50 KMart oil and, BTW, there's no good
reason not to use a multi-vis oil; you're doing your top end a disservice
every time you start the engine if you don't.  I believe Pennrite makes a
XXW-60 oil, which should give a little more oil pressure if your engine is
oil pressure-challenged.

Any racers on the List care to chime in?  Richard M., aka 'Boy Racer,' are
you on here?

Gearboxes?  No question, modern synthetics--like Redline MT-90--are hands
down the best (if you can live with the leaking--I can).

Bob

G'day

Hoo Roo

Patrick

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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=3Dwhite =
lang=3DEN-AU link=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>G&#8217;day<o:p></o:p></span>=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>It&#8217;s a good thing that =
I don&#8217;t take a similar approach to subjects and comments that come =
up on this list. For if I did I would be spending all day responding to =
the idiotic, ill-informed and close to slanderous comments that some =
people foolishly make.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Luckily I have more relevant =
things to do with my life so perhaps it&#8217;s time to move =
on.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>See =
ya!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Patrick =
Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Blue Mountains, Australia =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'> Bob Spidell [mailto:[email-masked]] <br><b>Sent:</b> =
Thursday, 11 June 2015 1:33 PM<br><b>To:</b> Patrick &amp; Caroline =
Quinn; [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] oil =
weight<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>OK, I'll bite.&nbsp; How, exactly, do you =
formulate an oil for an older engine (besides adding lots of ZDDP for =
flat tappet cams)?&nbsp; Except for (possibly) looser clearances--not =
necessarily so if you have a good machinist--what is the difference =
between an older iron block and a newer one (I know many modern engines =
are Al), Al pistons, steel con rods, babbitt bearings, etc.&nbsp; =
<br><br>We are running modern oils in:<br><br>- a 1946 Chevy 2-ton =
truck<br>- a 1955 T-Bird<br>- a 1956 BN2/100M<br>- a 1965 Mustang =
(289)<br>- a 1967 BJ8 (that gets 4-5K miles/year and uses--drips, =
mostly--a quart of oil every 3,500 miles)<br><br>... with no issues with =
the oil whatsoever.&nbsp; Sorry, but while I'm sure Pennrite is a good =
oil, unless you/they can tell me exactly what needs to be formulated for =
older engines it sounds like marketing blather to me.&nbsp; If =
'formulated for older engines' means you get lots of sludge and gunk in =
the pan thanks, but I'll pass.&nbsp; I had the timing cover off my BJ8 =
to replace the seal the other day and was astounded at how clean it was; =
not a speck of crud (110,000 miles since the last rebuild).<br><br>Note =
there are strict requirements (per SAE) for oil viscosities, so 20W-50 =
Pennrite is the same viscosity as 20W-50 KMart oil and, BTW, there's no =
good reason not to use a multi-vis oil; you're doing your top end a =
disservice every time you start the engine if you don't.&nbsp; I believe =
Pennrite makes a XXW-60 oil, which should give a little more oil =
pressure if your engine is oil pressure-challenged.<br><br>Any racers on =
the List care to chime in?&nbsp; Richard M., aka 'Boy Racer,' are you on =
here?<br><br>Gearboxes?&nbsp; No question, modern synthetics--like =
Redline MT-90--are hands down the best (if you can live with the =
leaking--I can).<br><br>Bob<br><br>ps.&nbsp; I'm not trying to be =
antagonistic Patrick, I just don't buy the Pennrite =
line<br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On 6/10/2015 5:53 =
PM, Patrick &amp; Caroline Quinn wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>G&#8217;day</span><o:p></o:p>=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>I =
don&#8217;t think you read was I said.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Not a problem using modern =
oils, but they should be oils formulated for older =
engines.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Take for instance the oil =
for the gearbox. I certainly wouldn&#8217;t use an oil that contains a =
detergent.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Hoo =
Roo</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Patrick</span><o:p></o:p></p>=
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Alan Seigrist <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 12:48:57 +0800

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I enjoy the idiotic ill-informed comments, it makes me feel superior, which
is a big thing on a car guy email list

On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 12:42 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> G=E2=80=99day
>
>
>
> It=E2=80=99s a good thing that I don=E2=80=99t take a similar approach to=
 subjects and
> comments that come up on this list. For if I did I would be spending all
> day responding to the idiotic, ill-informed and close to slanderous
> comments that some people foolishly make.
>
>
>
> Luckily I have more relevant things to do with my life so perhaps it=E2=
=80=99s
> time to move on.

--089e0160bcac999ad8051836b5df
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<div dir=3D"ltr">I enjoy the idiotic ill-informed comments, it makes me fee=
l superior, which is a big thing on a car guy email list=C2=A0<div class=3D=
"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 12:42 =
PM, Patrick &amp; Caroline Quinn <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:p_=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wro=
te:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-=
left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div bgcolor=3D"white" lang=3D"EN-AU"=
 link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"=
font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext">G=E2=80=99day<u></u><u></u></span></p><p=
 class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext"><u><=
/u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:=
10.0pt;color:windowtext">It=E2=80=99s a good thing that I don=E2=80=99t tak=
e a similar approach to subjects and comments that come up on this list. Fo=
r if I did I would be spending all day responding to the idiotic, ill-infor=
med and close to slanderous comments that some people foolishly make.<u></u=
><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;c=
olor:windowtext"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext">Luckily I have more relevant =
things to do with my life so perhaps it=E2=80=99s time to move on.<u></u><u=
></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;colo=
r:windowtext"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span s=
tyle=3D"font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext">See ya!<u></u><u></u></span></p>=
<span class=3D""><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;col=
or:windowtext"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span =
style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext">Patrick Quinn<u></u><u></u></sp=
an></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;color:windowt=
ext">Blue Mountains, Australia <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNorm=
al"><br></p></span></div></div></blockquote></div></div></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:56:28 +1000

--===============3939335574378664058==
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Most of the answers you seek can be found here Bob...

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%2=
0Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf

Sent from my iPhone

> On 11 Jun 2015, at 1:32 pm, Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> OK, I'll bite.  How, exactly, do you formulate an oil for an older engine (=
besides adding lots of ZDDP for flat tappet cams)?  Except for (possibly) lo=
oser clearances--not necessarily so if you have a good machinist--what is th=
e difference between an older iron block and a newer one (I know many modern=
 engines are Al), Al pistons, steel con rods, babbitt bearings, etc. =20
> - a 1967 BJ8 (that gets 4-5K miles/year and uses--drips, mostly--a quart o=
f oil every 3,500 miles)
>=20
> ... with no issues with the oil whatsoever.  Sorry, but while I'm sure Pen=
nrite is a good oil, unless you/they can tell me exactly what needs to be fo=
rmulated for older engines it sounds like marketing blather to me.  If 'form=
ulated for older engines' means you get lots of sludge and gunk in the pan t=
hanks, but I'll pass.  I had the timing cover off my BJ8 to replace the seal=
 the other day and was astounded at how clean it was; not a speck of crud (1=
10,000 miles since the last rebuild).
>=20
> Note there are strict requirements (per SAE) for oil viscosities, so 20W-5=
0 Pennrite is the same viscosity as 20W-50 KMart oil and, BTW, there's no go=
od reason not to use a multi-vis oil; you're doing your top end a disservice=
 every time you start the engine if you don't.  I believe Pennrite makes a X=
XW-60 oil, which should give a little more oil pressure if your engine is oi=
l pressure-challenged.
>=20
> Any racers on the List care to chime in?  Richard M., aka 'Boy Racer,' are=
 you on here?
>=20
> Gearboxes?  No question, modern synthetics--like Redline MT-90--are hands d=
own the best (if you can live with the leaking--I can).
>=20
> Bob
>=20
> ps.  I'm not trying to be antagonistic Patrick, I just don't buy the Pennr=
ite line

--Apple-Mail-4921EAC0-8ACC-4461-9DC9-289FBB7E37A6
	charset=utf-8
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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Most of the answers you seek can be found here Bob...</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf">http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf</a></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Sent from my iPhone</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>On 11 Jun 2015, at 1:32 pm, Bob Spidell &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">
  
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252" http-equiv="Content-Type">

    OK, I'll bite.&nbsp; How, exactly, do you formulate an oil for an older
    engine (besides adding lots of ZDDP for flat tappet cams)?&nbsp; Except
    for (possibly) looser clearances--not necessarily so if you have a
    good machinist--what is the difference between an older iron block
    and a newer one (I know many modern engines are Al), Al pistons,
    steel con rods, babbitt bearings, etc.&nbsp; <br>
    <br>
    We are running modern oils in:<br>
    <br>
    - a 1946 Chevy 2-ton truck<br>
    - a 1955 T-Bird<br>
    - a 1956 BN2/100M<br>
    - a 1965 Mustang (289)<br>
    - a 1967 BJ8 (that gets 4-5K miles/year and uses--drips, mostly--a
    quart of oil every 3,500 miles)<br>
    <br>
    ... with no issues with the oil whatsoever.&nbsp; Sorry, but while I'm
    sure Pennrite is a good oil, unless you/they can tell me exactly
    what needs to be formulated for older engines it sounds like
    marketing blather to me.&nbsp; If 'formulated for older engines' means
    you get lots of sludge and gunk in the pan thanks, but I'll pass.&nbsp; I
    had the timing cover off my BJ8 to replace the seal the other day
    and was astounded at how clean it was; not a speck of crud (110,000
    miles since the last rebuild).<br>
    <br>
    Note there are strict requirements (per SAE) for oil viscosities, so
    20W-50 Pennrite is the same viscosity as 20W-50 KMart oil and, BTW,
    there's no good reason not to use a multi-vis oil; you're doing your
    top end a disservice every time you start the engine if you don't.&nbsp;
    I believe Pennrite makes a XXW-60 oil, which should give a little
    more oil pressure if your engine is oil pressure-challenged.<br>
    <br>
    Any racers on the List care to chime in?&nbsp; Richard M., aka 'Boy
    Racer,' are you on here?<br>
    <br>
    Gearboxes?&nbsp; No question, modern synthetics--like Redline MT-90--are
    hands down the best (if you can live with the leaking--I can).<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    ps.&nbsp; I'm not trying to be antagonistic Patrick, I just don't buy the
    Pennrite line</blockquote><style><!--
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 23:39:44 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I see 'Classic'  'Designed to 'Meet original engine requirements'

Seems like a low bar to set.

On 6/10/2015 10:56 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
> http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 11 Jun 2015, at 1:32 pm, Bob Spidell <[email-masked] 
>
>>

--------------000509040202030506030404
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    I see 'Classic'  'Designed to 'Meet original engine requirements'<br>
    <br>
    Seems like a low bar to set.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/10/2015 10:56 PM, Chris Dimmock
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Most of the
          answers you seek can be found here Bob...</span></div>
      <div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
        </span></div>
      <div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a
            moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf">http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf</a></span></div>
      <div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
        </span><br>
        <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Sent from my
          iPhone</span></div>
      <div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
        On 11 Jun 2015, at 1:32 pm, Bob Spidell &lt;<a
          moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
        wrote:<br>
        <br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">
        <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8"
          http-equiv="Content-Type">
        <br>
      </blockquote>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Derek Job <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 11:16:07 +0100

--===============8190639623789834263==

--089e0158b6c09d5adb05183b47e6

Strange comment from Castrol given that they specifically make a 20/50 oil
for Classic Cars.

On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 7:39 AM, Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Strange comment from Castrol given that they specifically =
make a 20/50 oil for Classic Cars.</div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div=
 class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 7:39 AM, Bob Spidell <span d=
ir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">bs=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quot=
e" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF" text=3D"#000000">
    I see &#39;Classic&#39;=C2=A0 &#39;Designed to &#39;Meet original engin=
e requirements&#39;<br>
    <br>
    Seems like a low bar to set.<span class=3D""><br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div>On 6/10/2015 10:56 PM, Chris Dimmock
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div><span>Most of the
          answers you seek can be found here Bob...</span></div>
      <div><span><br>
        </span></div>
      <div><span><a href=3D"http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20J=
une%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf" target=3D"_blank"=
>http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive=
%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf</a></span></div>
      <div><span><br>
        </span><br>
        <span>Sent from my
          iPhone</span></div>
      <div><br>
        On 11 Jun 2015, at 1:32 pm, Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspid=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
        wrote:<br>
        <br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type=3D"cite">
       =20
        <br>
      </blockquote>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </span></div>

<br>_______________________________________________<br>
nk">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://w=
ww.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank">http://www=
.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" target=3D"_blank=
">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/op=
tions/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2015 04:54:32 +1000

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So the different specs, standards, zinc levels, weights, base stocks, etc do=
n't mean anything to you Bob??
So what oil, specifically, do you run Bob??
Put your cock on the block.=20
Specifics please.=20
Your un specified oil is currently lower than whale shit in my book mate.=20=

And what fuel do you run??
That's always good for a laugh too...
Sincerely.=20
Well, probably not.=20
But RON, MON, and my 90 year old MUM are waiting in anticipation.....

Sent from my iPhone

> On 11 Jun 2015, at 4:39 pm, Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
>> http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotiv=
e%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf
>> On 11 Jun 2015, at 1:32 pm, Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:

--Apple-Mail-51C8DF9C-5E91-4F13-8C33-BCBE84CBBF9F
	charset=utf-8
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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>So the different specs, standards, zinc levels, weights, base stocks, etc don't mean anything to you Bob??</div><div>So what oil, specifically, do you run Bob??</div><div>Put your cock on the block.&nbsp;</div><div>Specifics please.&nbsp;</div><div>Your un specified oil is currently lower than whale shit in my book mate.&nbsp;</div><div>And what fuel do you run??</div><div>That's always good for a laugh too...</div><div>Sincerely.&nbsp;</div><div>Well, probably not.&nbsp;</div><div>But RON, MON, and my 90 year old MUM are waiting in anticipation.....</div><div><br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On 11 Jun 2015, at 4:39 pm, Bob Spidell &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>

    I see 'Classic'&nbsp; 'Designed to 'Meet original engine requirements'<br>
    <br>
    Seems like a low bar to set.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/10/2015 10:56 PM, Chris Dimmock
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Most of the
          answers you seek can be found here Bob...</span></div>
      <div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
        </span></div>
      <div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf">http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf</a></span></div>
      <div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
        </span><br>
        <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Sent from my
          iPhone</span></div>
      <div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
        On 11 Jun 2015, at 1:32 pm, Bob Spidell &lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
        wrote:<br>
        <br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">
        <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
        <br>
      </blockquote>
    </blockquote>
    </div></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><div><br></div></blockquote></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 17:21:04 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Apparently you didn't read my earlier post.

I ran Chevron 20W-50 for over 25 years when it was available at Costco 
for less than $2/qt--I changed my oil twice/year back then--but Costco 
no longer carries it.  Now, I'm using Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 
off-the-shelf from the local parts house.  It's almost $7/qt but now I 
only change my oil once a year and put up to 5,000 miles a year on my 
BJ8 so the expense isn't that much of a burden.  With 110,000 miles on 
the last overhaul the car uses (mostly drips) about 1qt every 3,500 
miles or so (that's mostly highway miles, it uses a little more around 
town).  I have a spin-on oil filter adapter and run Wix# 51516 filters 
which barely fit but have served me well for years (about $8 per); the 
oil was clean and a medium amber color with no smell of 'burnt' when I 
last changed it at about 6,500 miles (last year's trip got cut short and 
I didn't bother changing it afterwards).  I am mildly fanatic about not 
mixing brands but this year I threw a leftover quart of Chevron into the 
Valvoline since I would be changing it soon.  As I mentioned, the timing 
cover was spotless inside when I removed it a year ago.

As for gas, I buy name brands--Chevron if I can get it--and 91 R+M/2 or 
better when I can get it, but since I'm sometimes a hundred miles from 
even medium-sized towns I'll take what I can get in a pinch.  I just did 
the Caliente to Tonopah, NV run which is 192 miles over several 
passes--you use more fuel climbing a pass than you can save coasting 
downhill--with no fuel whatsoever available (sometimes, you can get some 
regular in Rachel but they were dry, much to the chagrin of some 
off-roaders on their way to race in Caliente who said they'd 'pay 
whatever' for a couple gallons).  I don't run with a fuel filter, only 
the thimble strainers in the carbs, and the only problem I get is some 
stumbling after a hot re-start, which I attribute to the ethanol in the 
fuel boiling in the float bowls.  My aftermarket tank holds almost 14 
gallons, filled to the top of the filler neck, and we made it to Tonopah 
with almost a quarter tank.  With the stock 12gal tank I would have been 
on fumes.

It's a matter of opinion, I suppose, but being alone on a desert road a 
hundred miles--literally--from any town and with no cellphone service 
is, IMO, putting my 'cock on the block.'  I've got 130,000 miles--plus 
previous owners' 64K miles--on the car running whale shit for oil and 
horse piss for gas; not bad for an old LBC, I'd say.  If you're that 
proud of the oil and gas you can buy, well, so be it.  Just about any 
modern oil is vastly superior to what was available when our Healeys 
were built.  If spending extra for a 'custom' formulation gives you a 
hard-on, fine, but as long as there's enough ZDDP either in the oil or 
added (not a great idea, IMO) it's a non-issue.

Bob

On 6/11/2015 11:54 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
> So the different specs, standards, zinc levels, weights, base stocks, 
> etc don't mean anything to you Bob??
> Put your cock on the block.
> Specifics please.
> Your un specified oil is currently lower than whale shit in my book mate.
> Sincerely.
> Well, probably not.

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<html>
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    <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
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    <div>Apparently you didn't read my earlier post.<br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>I ran Chevron 20W-50 for over 25 years when it was available at
      Costco for less than $2/qt--I changed my oil twice/year back
      then--but Costco no longer carries it.  Now, I'm using Valvoline
      VR-1 20W-50 off-the-shelf from the local parts house.  It's almost
      $7/qt but now I only change my oil once a year and put up to 5,000
      miles a year on my BJ8 so the expense isn't that much of a
      burden.  With 110,000 miles on the last overhaul the car uses
      (mostly drips) about 1qt every 3,500 miles or so (that's mostly
      highway miles, it uses a little more around town).  I have a
      spin-on oil filter adapter and run Wix# 51516 filters which barely
      fit but have served me well for years (about $8 per); the oil was
      clean and a medium amber color with no smell of 'burnt' when I
      last changed it at about 6,500 miles (last year's trip got cut
      short and I didn't bother changing it afterwards).  I am mildly
      fanatic about not mixing brands but this year I threw a leftover
      quart of Chevron into the Valvoline since I would be changing it
      soon.  As I mentioned, the timing cover was spotless inside when I
      removed it a year ago.<br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>As for gas, I buy name brands--Chevron if I can get it--and 91
      R+M/2 or better when I can get it, but since I'm sometimes a
      hundred miles from even medium-sized towns I'll take what I can
      get in a pinch.  I just did the Caliente to Tonopah, NV run which
      is 192 miles over several passes--you use more fuel climbing a
      pass than you can save coasting downhill--with no fuel whatsoever
      available (sometimes, you can get some regular in Rachel but they
      were dry, much to the chagrin of some off-roaders on their way to
      race in Caliente who said they'd 'pay whatever' for a couple
      gallons).  I don't run with a fuel filter, only the thimble
      strainers in the carbs, and the only problem I get is some
      stumbling after a hot re-start, which I attribute to the ethanol
      in the fuel boiling in the float bowls.  My aftermarket tank holds
      almost 14 gallons, filled to the top of the filler neck, and we
      made it to Tonopah with almost a quarter tank.  With the stock
      12gal tank I would have been on fumes.<br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>It's a matter of opinion, I suppose, but being alone on a
      desert road a hundred miles--literally--from any town and with no
      cellphone service is, IMO, putting my 'cock on the block.'  I've
      got 130,000 miles--plus previous owners' 64K miles--on the car
      running whale shit for oil and horse piss for gas; not bad for an
      old LBC, I'd say.  If you're that proud of the oil and gas you can
      buy, well, so be it.  Just about any modern oil is vastly superior
      to what was available when our Healeys were built.  If spending
      extra for a 'custom' formulation gives you a hard-on, fine, but as
      long as there's enough ZDDP either in the oil or added (not a
      great idea, IMO) it's a non-issue.  <br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>Bob<br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/11/2015 11:54 AM, Chris Dimmock
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div>So the different specs, standards, zinc levels, weights, base
        stocks, etc don't mean anything to you Bob??</div>
      <div>So what oil, specifically, do you run Bob??</div>
      <div>Put your cock on the block. </div>
      <div>Specifics please. </div>
      <div>Your un specified oil is currently lower than whale shit in
        my book mate. </div>
      <div>And what fuel do you run??</div>
      <div>That's always good for a laugh too...</div>
      <div>Sincerely. </div>
      <div>Well, probably not. </div>
      <div>But RON, MON, and my 90 year old MUM are waiting in
        anticipation.....</div>
      <div><br>
        <br>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
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[email-masked]

--------------010803070307070703000503--

---

From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2015 06:42:16 -0400

--===============7959951715133402581==

--047d7bf10a7438997705184fc444

Bob--

I read with interest your post describing your desert jaunt and indeed
taking our cars out into the remote hinterlands is a test of faith--sort of
like how it must have felt for sailors in the days when sea charts bore
phrases such as "Here Be Dragons".

As re oil and gas I agree with everything you said except your
statement:  "Just
about any modern oil is vastly superior to what was available when our
Healeys were built."  Though oil technology has changed greatly and modern
lubes are superior in so many respects they do lack the ingredients
necessary to protect our flat-tappet engines and now we are forced to
either put in additives or buy non-DOT oils, etc.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 8:21 PM, Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:

> for less than $2/qt--I changed my oil twice/year back then--but Costco no
> longer carries it.  Now, I'm using Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 off-the-shelf from
> the local parts house.  It's almost $7/qt but now I only change my oil once
> a year and put up to 5,000 miles a year on my BJ8 so the expense isn't that
> much of a burden.  With 110,000 miles on the last overhaul the car uses
> (mostly drips) about 1qt every 3,500 miles or so (that's mostly highway
> miles, it uses a little more around town).  I have a spin-on oil filter
> adapter and run Wix# 51516 filters which barely fit but have served me well
> for years (about $8 per); the oil was clean and a medium amber color with
> no smell of 'burnt' when I last changed it at about 6,500 miles (last
> year's trip got cut short and I didn't bother changing it afterwards).  I
> am mildly fanatic about not mixing brands but this year I threw a leftover
> quart of Chevron into the Valvoline since I would be changing it soon.  As
> I mentioned, the timing cover was spotless inside when I removed it a year
> ago.
>
> better when I can get it, but since I'm sometimes a hundred miles from even
> medium-sized towns I'll take what I can get in a pinch.  I just did the
> Caliente to Tonopah, NV run which is 192 miles over several passes--you use
> more fuel climbing a pass than you can save coasting downhill--with no fuel
> whatsoever available (sometimes, you can get some regular in Rachel but
> they were dry, much to the chagrin of some off-roaders on their way to race
> in Caliente who said they'd 'pay whatever' for a couple gallons).  I don't
> run with a fuel filter, only the thimble strainers in the carbs, and the
> only problem I get is some stumbling after a hot re-start, which I
> attribute to the ethanol in the fuel boiling in the float bowls.  My
> aftermarket tank holds almost 14 gallons, filled to the top of the filler
> neck, and we made it to Tonopah with almost a quarter tank.  With the stock
> 12gal tank I would have been on fumes.
>
> hundred miles--literally--from any town and with no cellphone service is,
> IMO, putting my 'cock on the block.'  I've got 130,000 miles--plus previous
> owners' 64K miles--on the car running whale shit for oil and horse piss for
> gas; not bad for an old LBC, I'd say.  If you're that proud of the oil and
> gas you can buy, well, so be it.  Just about any modern oil is vastly
> superior to what was available when our Healeys were built.  If spending
> extra for a 'custom' formulation gives you a hard-on, fine, but as long as
> there's enough ZDDP either in the oil or added (not a great idea, IMO) it's
> a non-issue.
>
>  Bob
>
>
>
>
> So the different specs, standards, zinc levels, weights, base stocks, etc
> don't mean anything to you Bob??

--047d7bf10a7438997705184fc444
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)=
">Bob--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><b=
r></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I read =
with interest your post describing your desert jaunt and indeed taking our =
cars out into the remote hinterlands is a test of faith--sort of like how i=
t must have felt for sailors in the days when sea charts bore phrases such =
as &quot;Here Be Dragons&quot;. =C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" st=
yle=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default"><font c=
olor=3D"#3333ff">As re oil and gas I agree with everything you said except =
your statement: =C2=A0&quot;</font><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-siz=
e:12.8000001907349px">Just about any modern oil is vastly superior to what =
was available when our Healeys were built.&quot; =C2=A0</span><span style=
=3D"font-size:12.8000001907349px"><font color=3D"#0000ff">Though oil techno=
logy has changed greatly and modern lubes are superior in so many respects =
they do lack the ingredients necessary to protect our flat-tappet engines a=
nd now we are forced to either put in additives or buy non-DOT oils, etc.</=
font></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default"><span style=3D"font-size:12.=
8000001907349px"><font color=3D"#0000ff"><br></font></span></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default"><span style=3D"font-size:12.8000001907349px"><font color=
=3D"#0000ff">Best--Michael Oritt</font></span></div></div><div class=3D"gma=
il_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 8:21 PM, B=
ob Spidell <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;=
padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF" text=3D"#000000">
    <div>Apparently you didn&#39;t read my earlier post.<br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>I ran Chevron 20W-50 for over 25 years when it was available at
      Costco for less than $2/qt--I changed my oil twice/year back
      then--but Costco no longer carries it.=C2=A0 Now, I&#39;m using Valvo=
line
      VR-1 20W-50 off-the-shelf from the local parts house.=C2=A0 It&#39;s =
almost
      $7/qt but now I only change my oil once a year and put up to 5,000
      miles a year on my BJ8 so the expense isn&#39;t that much of a
      burden.=C2=A0 With 110,000 miles on the last overhaul the car uses
      (mostly drips) about 1qt every 3,500 miles or so (that&#39;s mostly
      highway miles, it uses a little more around town).=C2=A0 I have a
      spin-on oil filter adapter and run Wix# 51516 filters which barely
      fit but have served me well for years (about $8 per); the oil was
      clean and a medium amber color with no smell of &#39;burnt&#39; when =
I
      last changed it at about 6,500 miles (last year&#39;s trip got cut
      short and I didn&#39;t bother changing it afterwards).=C2=A0 I am mil=
dly
      fanatic about not mixing brands but this year I threw a leftover
      quart of Chevron into the Valvoline since I would be changing it
      soon.=C2=A0 As I mentioned, the timing cover was spotless inside when=
 I
      removed it a year ago.<br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>As for gas, I buy name brands--Chevron if I can get it--and 91
      R+M/2 or better when I can get it, but since I&#39;m sometimes a
      hundred miles from even medium-sized towns I&#39;ll take what I can
      get in a pinch.=C2=A0 I just did the Caliente to Tonopah, NV run whic=
h
      is 192 miles over several passes--you use more fuel climbing a
      pass than you can save coasting downhill--with no fuel whatsoever
      available (sometimes, you can get some regular in Rachel but they
      were dry, much to the chagrin of some off-roaders on their way to
      race in Caliente who said they&#39;d &#39;pay whatever&#39; for a cou=
ple
      gallons).=C2=A0 I don&#39;t run with a fuel filter, only the thimble
      strainers in the carbs, and the only problem I get is some
      stumbling after a hot re-start, which I attribute to the ethanol
      in the fuel boiling in the float bowls.=C2=A0 My aftermarket tank hol=
ds
      almost 14 gallons, filled to the top of the filler neck, and we
      made it to Tonopah with almost a quarter tank.=C2=A0 With the stock
      12gal tank I would have been on fumes.<br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>It&#39;s a matter of opinion, I suppose, but being alone on a
      desert road a hundred miles--literally--from any town and with no
      cellphone service is, IMO, putting my &#39;cock on the block.&#39;=C2=
=A0 I&#39;ve
      got 130,000 miles--plus previous owners&#39; 64K miles--on the car
      running whale shit for oil and horse piss for gas; not bad for an
      old LBC, I&#39;d say.=C2=A0 If you&#39;re that proud of the oil and g=
as you can
      buy, well, so be it.=C2=A0 Just about any modern oil is vastly superi=
or
      to what was available when our Healeys were built.=C2=A0 If spending
      extra for a &#39;custom&#39; formulation gives you a hard-on, fine, b=
ut as
      long as there&#39;s enough ZDDP either in the oil or added (not a
      great idea, IMO) it&#39;s a non-issue.=C2=A0 <br><span class=3D"HOEnZ=
b"><font color=3D"#888888">
    </font></span></div><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888">
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>Bob<br>
    </div></font></span><span class=3D"">
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div>On 6/11/2015 11:54 AM, Chris Dimmock
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div>So the different specs, standards, zinc levels, weights, base
        stocks, etc don&#39;t mean anything to you Bob??</div>
      <div>So what oil, specifically, do you run Bob??</div>
      <div>Put your cock on the block.=C2=A0</div>
      <div>Specifics please.=C2=A0</div>
      <div>Your un specified oil is currently lower than whale shit in
        my book mate.=C2=A0</div>
      <div>And what fuel do you run??</div>
      <div>That&#39;s always good for a laugh too...</div>
      <div>Sincerely.=C2=A0</div>
      <div>Well, probably not.=C2=A0</div>
      <div>But RON, MON, and my 90 year old MUM are waiting in
        anticipation.....</div>
      <div><br>
        <br>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </span></div>

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