Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes

From: "Simon Lachlan" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2015 12:05:43 +0100

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Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it is
"best practise" but, in itself does not guarantee success. Many of us have
been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing to get all the air
out. I know that I have.

I've got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-

"If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
considerable time it is

possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such
cases tighten

the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow
the pedal to

return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during
the last pedal

application."

ie you close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it
works. The theory is that the air gets past the thread as you close it.
Fairly coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of wear.

If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the bleeder
a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.

Worth bearing in mind.

Simon

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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'>Bleeding =
the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it is =
&#8220;best practise&#8221; but, in itself does not guarantee success. =
Many of us have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing =
to get all the air out. I know that I have.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'>I&#8217;ve=
 got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this =
paragraph:-<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp=
;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'>&#8220;If =
the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a =
considerable time it is<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'>possible =
that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such cases =
tighten<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'>the =
bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow =
the pedal to<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'>return =
fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the =
last pedal<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'>applicatio=
n.&#8221;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'>ie you =
close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it works. =
The theory is that the air gets past the thread as you close it. Fairly =
coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of =
wear.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp=
;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'>If you =
use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the bleeder a =
little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'>Worth =
bearing in mind.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp=
;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"'>Simon</spa=
n><o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From: HealeyRick <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2015 17:05:35 -0400

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I also learned (through the List, thank you very much) that the wheel
furthest from the M/C is not the right rear as it would seem to be from a
quick look.  But examining the length of the lines shows the longest travel
for North American cars is the left rear (at least for 6 cylinders)  One
more Healey fact to keep in mind.

Nasty Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 7:05 AM, Simon Lachlan <[email-masked]=
wrote:

> Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it
> is =E2=80=9Cbest practise=E2=80=9D but, in itself does not guarantee succ=
ess. Many of us
> have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing to get all th=
e
> air out. I know that I have.
>
> I=E2=80=99ve got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph=
:-
>
>
>
> =E2=80=9CIf the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
> considerable time it is
>
> possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In
> such cases tighten
>
> the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allo=
w
> application.=E2=80=9D
> If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the
> bleeder a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.
>
> Worth bearing in mind.
>
>
>
> Simon
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">I also learned (through the List, thank you very much) tha=
t the wheel furthest from the M/C is not the right rear as it would seem to=
 be from a quick look.=C2=A0 But examining the length of the lines shows th=
e longest travel for North American cars is the left rear (at least for 6 c=
ylinders) =C2=A0One more Healey fact to keep in mind.<div><br></div><div>Na=
sty Healeying,</div><div>Rick Neville</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"=
><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 7:05 AM, Simon Lachl=
an <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><bloc=
kquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #cc=
c solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-GB" link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple=
"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-autospace:none"><span style=3D"=
font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">B=
leeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it is =
=E2=80=9Cbest practise=E2=80=9D but, in itself does not guarantee success. =
Many of us have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing to g=
et all the air out. I know that I have.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-autospace:none"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;f=
ont-family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">I=E2=80=99ve got va=
rious manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-<u></u><u></u></spa=
n></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-autospace:none"><span style=3D"f=
ont-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><u=
></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-autospace=
:none"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quot=
;,&quot;serif&quot;">=E2=80=9CIf the bleeding of any cylinder continues wit=
hout success for a considerable time it is<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-autospace:none"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0p=
t;font-family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">possible that ai=
r is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such cases tighten<u=
></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-autospace:none"=
><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quot;,&quo=
t;serif&quot;">the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the p=
edal and allow the pedal to<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" =
style=3D"text-autospace:none"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&=
quot;TimesNewRoman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">return fully before re-opening =
it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal<u></u><u></u></sp=
an></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&=
quot;TimesNewRoman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">application.=E2=80=9D<u></u><u>=
</u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-=
family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">ie you close the bleede=
r while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it works. The theory is that =
the air gets past the thread as you close it. Fairly coarse threads. Pretty=
 old bits of iron...plenty of wear.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"Mso=
Normal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quo=
t;,&quot;serif&quot;"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"=
><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quot;,&quo=
t;serif&quot;">If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just =
open the bleeder a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.<u></u><=
u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;fon=
t-family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Worth bearing in mind=
.<span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888"><u></u><u></u></font></span=
></span></p><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888"><p class=3D"MsoN=
ormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quot=
;,&quot;serif&quot;"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=
<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;TimesNewRoman&quot;,&quot=
;serif&quot;">Simon</span><u></u><u></u></p></font></span></div></div><br>_=
______________________________________________<br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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[email-masked]

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2015 11:52:16 -0400

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Thanks for the tip Larry. So simple it amazing. The last time I did the  
brakes on my BN1, it took three of us and a vacuum pump and gallons of beer 
and  lots of swearing, but we did get them the best they've even been. But 
this  method would have been extremely easy and when it comes time to change 
the  fluids, I'm giving this a go and when it works, a toast in your honor. 
Thanks  again.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598

In a message dated 7/4/2015 11:29:07 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[email-masked] writes:

On the  drum brake front cars the front brakes must be de adjusted first 
or you  will probably never get all of the air out. It even says in the 
BN1 manual  to do this. This pushes the pistons home and reduces the air 
in the wheel  cylinders.
My method for doing it alone - attach about 6 feet of clear soft  tube to 
the bleeder screw. Put the tube up higher than the car ( over a  step 
ladder etc ) open the bleed screw slightly and slowly pump the pedal,  
then see the fluid come up the tube and keep going until no air bubbles  
are coming up though the fluid. Close the bleed screw and repeat on all  
wheel. Works every time.
Cheers
Larry  Varley

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

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<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 11.00.9600.17842"></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR:=
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bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7 rightMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7><FONT id=3Dr=
ole_document=20
color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3DArial>
<DIV>Thanks for the tip Larry. So simple it amazing. The last time I did=
 the=20
brakes on my BN1, it took three of us and a vacuum pump and gallons of bee=
r and=20
lots of swearing, but we did get them the best they've even been. But this=
=20
method would have been extremely easy and when it comes time to change the=
=20
fluids, I'm giving this a go and when it works, a toast in your honor. Tha=
nks=20
again.</DIV>
<DIV>Steven Kingsbury</DIV>
<DIV>BN1 #598</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 7/4/2015 11:29:07 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,=20
[email-masked] writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"=
><FONT=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3D=
Arial>On the=20
  drum brake front cars the front brakes must be de adjusted first <BR>or=
 you=20
  will probably never get all of the air out. It even says in the <BR>BN1=
 manual=20
  to do this. This pushes the pistons home and reduces the air <BR>in the=
 wheel=20
  cylinders.<BR>My method for doing it alone - attach about 6 feet of clea=
r soft=20
  tube to <BR>the bleeder screw. Put the tube up higher than the car ( ove=
r a=20
  step <BR>ladder etc ) open the bleed screw slightly and slowly pump the=
 pedal,=20
  <BR>then see the fluid come up the tube and keep going until no air bubb=
les=20
  <BR>are coming up though the fluid. Close the bleed screw and repeat on=
 all=20
  <BR>wheel. Works every time.<BR>Cheers<BR>Larry=20
  Varley<BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Sup=
port=20
  Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<BR>Suggested annual donation&nb=
sp;=20
  $12.75<BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<BR>Forums:=20
  http://www.team.net/forums<BR><BR>[email-masked]<BR>http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<BR><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
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[email-masked]

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From: "Steve Gerow" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2015 21:22:39 -0700

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This syringe in combination with Teflon tape around the bleeder screw
threads works flawlessly and is very inexpensive. The Teflon tape prevents
airflow past the threads; some folks recommend a zip tie to tighten the tube
on the barb:

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/157731346

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/157731620

Cannot recommend it too highly.

--

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6 - 29D 3000 & 4 whl disc brakes

Check out my galleries:

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>This =
syringe in combination with Teflon tape around the bleeder screw threads =
works flawlessly and is very inexpensive. The Teflon tape prevents =
airflow past the threads; some folks recommend a zip tie to tighten the =
tube on the barb:<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><a =
href=3D"http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/157731346">http://www.pbase=
.com/stevegerow/image/157731346</a><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><a =
href=3D"http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/157731620">http://www.pbase=
.com/stevegerow/image/157731620</a><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Cannot =
recommend it too highly.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>--<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Steve =
Gerow<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Altadena, CA, =
USA<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>BN6 - 29D 3000 &amp; 4 whl disc =
brakes<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Check out my =
galleries:<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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