Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes

From: "John Rowe" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2015 08:13:49 +1000

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I have never had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that same reason
of air entering through the thread of the bleeder screw. The bubbles never
stop coming!  Always resort to the time honoured version of opening and
closing screws

John Rowe

Qld Australia

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Simon
Lachlan
Sent: Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes

Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it is
"best practise" but, in itself does not guarantee success. Many of us have
been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing to get all the air
out. I know that I have.

I've got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-

"If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
considerable time it is

possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such
cases tighten

the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow
the pedal to

return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during
the last pedal

application."

ie you close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it
works. The theory is that the air gets past the thread as you close it.
Fairly coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of wear.

If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the bleeder
a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.

Worth bearing in mind.

Simon

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-AU link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I have never had any luck with those vacuum =
bleeders, for that same reason of air entering through the thread of the =
bleeder screw. The bubbles never stop coming! &nbsp;Always resort to the =
time honoured version of opening and closing =
screws<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>John Rowe<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Qld =
Australia<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Healeys =
[mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Simon =
Lachlan<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
'Healey List'<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Bleeding =
brakes<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>Bleeding the =
furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it is =
&#8220;best practise&#8221; but, in itself does not guarantee success. =
Many of us have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing =
to get all the air out. I know that I have.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>I&#8217;ve got =
various manuals and one of my two BMC has this =
paragraph:-<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></s=
pan></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>&#8220;If the =
bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a considerable =
time it is<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>possible that air =
is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such cases =
tighten<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>the bleeder screw =
at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow the pedal =
to<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>return fully before =
re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last =
pedal<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>application.&#8221;<=
o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>ie you close the =
bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it works. The theory =
is that the air gets past the thread as you close it. Fairly coarse =
threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of =
wear.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></s=
pan></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>If you use an =
Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the bleeder a little =
and leave it open until the bubbles stop.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>Worth bearing in =
mind.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></s=
pan></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>Simon</span><span =
lang=3DEN-GB><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

--===============8634350848716491251==--

---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2015 18:34:40 -0400

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With out any question the best bleeder I have ever used was the Snap-On
diaphragm brake bleeder that I have owned for at least 30 years. I don't
know if they are still available.
I had to make a special adaptor (using old ski book spring clips) to secure
it to a Healey brake fluid reservoir but it makes bleeding brakes a really
simple one person job which is fast and completely removes air from the
system.
Like most commenters I have found that the vacuum bleeders never produced
satisfactory results.
AND I never bleed the brakes in any particular order...:-)

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 6:13 PM, John Rowe <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I have never had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that same reaso=
n
> of air entering through the thread of the bleeder screw. The bubbles neve=
r
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] *On Behalf Of *Si=
mon
> Lachlan
> *Sent:* Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM
> *To:* 'Healey List'
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
>
>
>
> Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it
> is =E2=80=9Cbest practise=E2=80=9D but, in itself does not guarantee succ=
ess. Many of us
> have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing to get all th=
e
> air out. I know that I have.
>
> I=E2=80=99ve got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph=
:-
>
>
>
> =E2=80=9CIf the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
> considerable time it is
>
> possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In
> such cases tighten
>
> the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allo=
w
> application.=E2=80=9D
> If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the
> bleeder a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.
>
> Worth bearing in mind.
>
>
>
> Simon
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

--=20
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*

--089e0112c2703f130c051a144779
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">With out any question the best bleeder I =
have ever used was the Snap-On diaphragm brake bleeder that I have owned fo=
r at least 30 years. I don&#39;t know if they are still available.<br></div=
><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif=
;font-size:small">I had to make a special adaptor (using old ski book sprin=
g clips) to secure it to a Healey brake fluid reservoir but it makes bleedi=
ng brakes a really simple one person job which is fast and completely remov=
es air from the system.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font=
-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Like most commenters I ha=
ve found that the vacuum bleeders never produced satisfactory results.<br><=
/div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-s=
erif;font-size:small">AND I never bleed the brakes in any particular order.=
..:-)<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic =
sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_=
default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1=
 #174<br><br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:co=
mic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail=
_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 6:13 PM, John=
 Rowe <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padd=
ing-left:1ex"><div link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple" lang=3D"EN-AU"><div><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1f497d">I have never had any luck w=
ith those vacuum bleeders, for that same reason of air entering through the=
 thread of the bleeder screw. The bubbles never stop coming!=C2=A0 Always r=
esort to the time honoured version of opening and closing screws<u></u><u><=
/u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1f497d">John Row=
e<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1f49=
7d">Qld Australia<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span styl=
e=3D"color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><=
span style=3D"color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><div><div style=
=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #b5c4df 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm"><=
p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;=
Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;" lang=3D"EN-US">From:</span></b><span s=
tyle=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&qu=
ot;" lang=3D"EN-US"> Healeys [mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@auto=
x.team.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>] <b>On Beh=
alf Of </b>Simon Lachlan<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM<br><=
b>To:</b> &#39;Healey List&#39;<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Bleeding brake=
s<u></u><u></u></span></p></div></div><span class=3D""><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-autospace:n=
one"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman" lang=3D"EN-=
GB">Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie i=
t is =E2=80=9Cbest practise=E2=80=9D but, in itself does not guarantee succ=
ess. Many of us have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing=
 to get all the air out. I know that I have.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p cla=
ss=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-autospace:none"><span style=3D"font-size:12.=
0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman" lang=3D"EN-GB">I=E2=80=99ve got various manu=
als and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-<u></u><u></u></span></p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-autospace:none"><span style=3D"font-size:1=
2.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman" lang=3D"EN-GB"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-autospace:none"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman" lang=3D"EN-GB">=E2=80=9CIf the ble=
eding of any cylinder continues without success for a considerable time it =
is<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-autospace:n=
one"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman" lang=3D"EN-=
GB">possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In =
such cases tighten<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"=
text-autospace:none"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRo=
man" lang=3D"EN-GB">the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of =
the pedal and allow the pedal to<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNor=
mal" style=3D"text-autospace:none"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-fam=
ily:TimesNewRoman" lang=3D"EN-GB">return fully before re-opening it. Close =
the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal<u></u><u></u></span></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRom=
an" lang=3D"EN-GB">application.=E2=80=9D<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman" l=
ang=3D"EN-GB">ie you close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Mes=
sy, but it works. The theory is that the air gets past the thread as you cl=
ose it. Fairly coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of wear.<u>=
</u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0p=
t;font-family:TimesNewRoman" lang=3D"EN-GB"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNew=
Roman" lang=3D"EN-GB">If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier=
. Just open the bleeder a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.<=
u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.=
0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman" lang=3D"EN-GB">Worth bearing in mind.<u></u>=
<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;fo=
nt-family:TimesNewRoman" lang=3D"EN-GB"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoma=
n" lang=3D"EN-GB">Simon</span><span lang=3D"EN-GB"><u></u><u></u></span></p=
></span></div></div><br>_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
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Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail=
_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><i><font size=3D"2"><spa=
n style=3D"color:black">If you can&#39;t fix it with a hammer, you&#39;ve g=
ot an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><d=
iv></div></div></div></div></div>
</div>

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[email-masked]

--===============8064543627988011244==--

---

From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 2015 19:51:56 -0400

John,

The ezibleed Simon mentioned pressurizes the reservoir, it's not a 
vacuum system.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 07/04/2015 06:13 PM, John Rowe wrote:
> I have never had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that same
> reason of air entering through the thread of the bleeder screw. The
> bubbles never stop coming!  Always resort to the time honoured version
> of opening and closing screws
>
> John Rowe
>
> Qld Australia
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] *On Behalf Of
> *Simon Lachlan
> is “best practise” but, in itself does not guarantee success. Many of us
> have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing to get all
> the air out. I know that I have.
>
> I’ve got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-
>
> “If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
> considerable time it is
>
> the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and
> allow the pedal to
>
> return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally
> during the last pedal
>
> application.”
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>

[email-masked]

ox.team.net

---

From: Larry Varley <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2015 10:24:32 +1000

On the drum brake front cars the front brakes must be de adjusted first 
or you will probably never get all of the air out. It even says in the 
BN1 manual to do this. This pushes the pistons home and reduces the air 
in the wheel cylinders.
My method for doing it alone - attach about 6 feet of clear soft tube to 
the bleeder screw. Put the tube up higher than the car ( over a step 
ladder etc ) open the bleed screw slightly and slowly pump the pedal, 
then see the fluid come up the tube and keep going until no air bubbles 
are coming up though the fluid. Close the bleed screw and repeat on all 
wheel. Works every time.
Cheers
Larry Varley

[email-masked]

---

From: Michael <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2015 21:04:12 -0400

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Another important operation when it comes to drum brakes is the importance =
of correctly adjusting the shoe "rest" pins. If these rests are not adjuste=
d so that the shoes are contacting the drums straight on it is impossible t=
o get a hard pedal.

Michael S

-----Original Message-----
From: "Larry Varley" <[email-masked]>
Sent: =E2=80=8E4/=E2=80=8E07/=E2=80=8E2015 8:28 p.m.
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes

On the drum brake front cars the front brakes must be de adjusted first=20
or you will probably never get all of the air out. It even says in the=20
BN1 manual to do this. This pushes the pistons home and reduces the air=20
in the wheel cylinders.
My method for doing it alone - attach about 6 feet of clear soft tube to=20
the bleeder screw. Put the tube up higher than the car ( over a step=20
ladder etc ) open the bleed screw slightly and slowly pump the pedal,=20
then see the fluid come up the tube and keep going until no air bubbles=20
are coming up though the fluid. Close the bleed screw and repeat on all=20
wheel. Works every time.
Cheers
Larry Varley

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

--_A547DFC4-8490-45F4-BA13-CD18053EDCE5_
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3Dutf-8"></head><body><div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; =
font-size: 11pt;">Another important operation when it comes to drum brakes =
is the importance of correctly adjusting the shoe "rest" pins. If these res=
ts are not adjusted so that the shoes are contacting the drums straight on =
it is impossible to get a hard pedal.<br><br>Michael S</div></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr"><hr><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11p=
t; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,san=
s-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Larry Va=
rley</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calib=
ri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">=E2=80=8E4/=E2=80=8E07/=E2=80=8E2015 8:28 =
p.m.</span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 1=
1pt; font-weight: bold;">To: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,san=
s-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">healey=
[email-masked]</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-ser=
if; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Subject: </span><span style=3D"fon=
t-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brak=
es</span><br><br></div>On the drum brake front cars the front brakes must b=
e de adjusted first <br>or you will probably never get all of the air out. =
It even says in the <br>BN1 manual to do this. This pushes the pistons home=
 and reduces the air <br>in the wheel cylinders.<br>My method for doing it =
alone - attach about 6 feet of clear soft tube to <br>the bleeder screw. Pu=
t the tube up higher than the car ( over a step <br>ladder etc ) open the b=
leed screw slightly and slowly pump the pedal, <br>then see the fluid come =
up the tube and keep going until no air bubbles <br>are coming up though th=
e fluid. Close the bleed screw and repeat on all <br>wheel. Works every tim=
e.<br>Cheers<br>Larry Varley<br><br><br>___________________________________=
____________<br>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Suggest=
ed annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>=
autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://a=
utox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br><br></body=
></html>=

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[email-masked]

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From: Larry Varley <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2015 14:38:32 +1000

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Mike is quite right here, if your lucky enough to have an old brake 
drum, cutting a section out of it so you can see the shoe contact with 
the drum makes this much easier.
Cheers
Larry Varley

On 5/07/2015 11:04 AM, Michael wrote:
> Another important operation when it comes to drum brakes is the 
> importance of correctly adjusting the shoe "rest" pins. If these rests 
> are not adjusted so that the shoes are contacting the drums straight 
> on it is impossible to get a hard pedal.
>
> Michael S
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent: ‎4/‎07/‎2015 8:28 p.m.
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Version: 2015.0.6037 / Virus Database: 4365/10162 - Release Date: 07/04/15
>

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<html>
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  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    Mike is quite right here, if your lucky enough to have an old brake
    drum, cutting a section out of it so you can see the shoe contact
    with the drum makes this much easier.<br>
    Cheers<br>
    Larry Varley<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/07/2015 11:04 AM, Michael wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div>
        <div style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Another
          important operation when it comes to drum brakes is the
          importance of correctly adjusting the shoe "rest" pins. If
          these rests are not adjusted so that the shoes are contacting
          the drums straight on it is impossible to get a hard pedal.<br>
          <br>
          Michael S</div>
      </div>
      <div dir="ltr">
        <hr><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size:
          11pt; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span
          style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a
            moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:[email-masked]">Larry
            Varley</a></span><br>
        <span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;
          font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><span style="font-family:
          Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">‎4/‎07/‎2015 8:28 p.m.</span><br>
        <span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;
          font-weight: bold;">To: </span><span style="font-family:
          Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a
            moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span><br>
        <span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;
          font-weight: bold;">Subject: </span><span style="font-family:
          Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Re: [Healeys] Bleeding
          brakes</span><br>
        <br>
      </div>
      On the drum brake front cars the front brakes must be de adjusted
      first <br>
      or you will probably never get all of the air out. It even says in
      the <br>
      BN1 manual to do this. This pushes the pistons home and reduces
      the air <br>
      in the wheel cylinders.<br>
      My method for doing it alone - attach about 6 feet of clear soft
      tube to <br>
      the bleeder screw. Put the tube up higher than the car ( over a
      step <br>
      ladder etc ) open the bleed screw slightly and slowly pump the
      pedal, <br>
      then see the fluid come up the tube and keep going until no air
      bubbles <br>
      are coming up though the fluid. Close the bleed screw and repeat
      on all <br>
      wheel. Works every time.<br>
      Cheers<br>
      Larry Varley<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      _______________________________________________<br>
      Support Team.Net <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
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      <br>
      <br>
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      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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</pre>
      <br>
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      <p class="" avgcert""="" color="#000000" align="left">No virus
        found in this message.<br>
        Checked by AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
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[email-masked]

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---

From: "tom mitchell" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2015 19:49:29 -0400

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The only time I =E2=80=98ve been able to get a vacuum bleeder to work =
satisfactorily using a short brake line screwed in-place of the bleeder.

It can be a bit messy yet works well.

=20

Mike, any chance of some pictures of what you have?

=20

Tom Mitchell

1965 Austin Healey BJ8 MKIII

=20

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of =
Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2015 6:35 PM
To: John Rowe
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes

=20

With out any question the best bleeder I have ever used was the Snap-On =
diaphragm brake bleeder that I have owned for at least 30 years. I don't =
know if they are still available.

I had to make a special adaptor (using old ski book spring clips) to =
secure it to a Healey brake fluid reservoir but it makes bleeding brakes =
a really simple one person job which is fast and completely removes air =
from the system.

Like most commenters I have found that the vacuum bleeders never =
produced satisfactory results.

Michael S

BN1 #174

=20

=20

On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 6:13 PM, John Rowe <[email-masked] =

I have never had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that same =
reason of air entering through the thread of the bleeder screw. The =
bubbles never stop coming!  Always resort to the time honoured version =
of opening and closing screws

John Rowe

Qld Australia

=20

=20

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked] =
Sent: Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes

=20

Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it =
is =E2=80=9Cbest practise=E2=80=9D but, in itself does not guarantee =
success. Many of us have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow =
failing to get all the air out. I know that I have.

I=E2=80=99ve got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this =
paragraph:-

=20

=E2=80=9CIf the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a =
considerable time it is

possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In =
such cases tighten

the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and =
allow the pedal to

return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally =
during the last pedal

application.=E2=80=9D

ie you close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it =
works. The theory is that the air gets past the thread as you close it. =
Fairly coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of wear.

=20

If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the =
bleeder a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.

Worth bearing in mind.

=20

Simon

--=20

If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>The only time I =E2=80=98ve been able to get a vacuum bleeder to work =
satisfactorily using a short brake line screwed in-place of the =
bleeder.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>It can be a bit messy yet works well.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Mike, any chance of some pictures of what you =
have?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:Consolas;color:#1F497D'>Tom =
Mitchell<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:Consolas;color:#1F497D'>1965 =
Austin Healey BJ8 MKIII<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:Consolas;color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;=
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Michael Salter<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, July 04, 2015 6:35 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> John Rowe<br><b>Cc:</b> Healey List<br><b>Subject:</b> =
Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS"'>With out =
any question the best bleeder I have ever used was the Snap-On diaphragm =
brake bleeder that I have owned for at least 30 years. I don't know if =
they are still available.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS"'>I had to =
make a special adaptor (using old ski book spring clips) to secure it to =
a Healey brake fluid reservoir but it makes bleeding brakes a really =
simple one person job which is fast and completely removes air from the =
system.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS"'>Like most commenters I have found =
that the vacuum bleeders never produced satisfactory =
results.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS"'>AND I never bleed the brakes in any particular =
order...:-)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS"'>Michael =
S<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS"'>BN1 #174<br><br><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On Sat, =
Jul 4, 2015 at 6:13 PM, John Rowe &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p><blockquote style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid =
#CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I have never had any luck with =
those vacuum bleeders, for that same reason of air entering through the =
thread of the bleeder screw. The bubbles never stop coming!&nbsp; Always =
resort to the time honoured version of opening and closing =
screws</span><span lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'color:#1F497D'>John Rowe</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Qld Australia</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'color:#1F497D'>&nbsp;</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'color:#1F497D'>&nbsp;</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'>From:</span></=
b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'> =
Healeys [mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Simon Lachlan<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> 'Healey List'<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Bleeding =
brakes</span><span lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-AU>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;text-autospac=
e:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>Bleeding the furthest brakes =
is all very well, but not infallible. ie it is =E2=80=9Cbest =
practise=E2=80=9D but, in itself does not guarantee success. Many of us =
have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing to get all =
the air out. I know that I have.</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;text-autospac=
e:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>I=E2=80=99ve got various =
manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;text-autospac=
e:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>&nbsp;</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;text-autospac=
e:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>=E2=80=9CIf the bleeding of =
any cylinder continues without success for a considerable time it =
is</span><span lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;text-autospac=
e:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>possible that air is being =
drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such cases =
tighten</span><span lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;text-autospac=
e:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>the bleeder screw at the end =
of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow the pedal to</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;text-autospac=
e:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>return fully before =
re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last =
pedal</span><span lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>application.=E2=80=9D</span><=
span lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>ie you close =
the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it works. The =
theory is that the air gets past the thread as you close it. Fairly =
coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of wear.</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>&nbsp;</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>If you use an =
Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the bleeder a little =
and leave it open until the bubbles stop.</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>Worth bearing =
in mind.</span><span lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>&nbsp;</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-family:"TimesNewRoman",serif'>Simon</span><span =
lang=3DEN-AU><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><br>______________________________________=
_________<br>Support Team.Net <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>Archive: <a =
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target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>Forums: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br><br><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br><a =
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target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br><=
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[email-masked]</a><br><br><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br clear=3Dall><br>-- =
<o:p></o:p></p><div><div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><i><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>If you can't fix it with a =
hammer, you've got an electrical =
problem.</span></i><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></div></div></div></b=
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---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2015 08:44:40 +0200

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I have used an Eezibleed or similar lightly pressurized system for over 
50 years and it has always worked for me on a very large range of vehicles.
A one man job that is done efficiently and quickly.
As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust back your drum 
brakes and push back the calliper pistons (using e few small wedges 
between pads and discs) to minimise the volume in the brake cylinders 
and callipers if the bleed nipples are positioned in such a way that air 
can remain trapped in the cylinders or callipers, although this is a 
fairly rare occurrence.

Kees Oudesluijs

tom mitchell schreef op 8-7-2015 om 1:49:
>
> The only time I ‘ve been able to get a vacuum bleeder to work 
> *Michael Salter
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 04, 2015 6:35 PM
> *To:* John Rowe
> *Cc:* Healey List
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
>
> With out any question the best bleeder I have ever used was the 
> Snap-On diaphragm brake bleeder that I have owned for at least 30 
> years. I don't know if they are still available.
>
> I had to make a special adaptor (using old ski book spring clips) to 
> secure it to a Healey brake fluid reservoir but it makes bleeding 
> brakes a really simple one person job which is fast and completely 
> removes air from the system.
>
> Like most commenters I have found that the vacuum bleeders never 
> On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 6:13 PM, John Rowe <[email-masked] 
>
>     I have never had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that
>     same reason of air entering through the thread of the bleeder
>     screw. The bubbles never stop coming! Always resort to the time
>     honoured version of opening and closing screws
>
>     John Rowe
>
>     Qld Australia
>
>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]
>     Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible.
>     ie it is “best practise” but, in itself does not guarantee
>     success. Many of us have been driven mad by spongy brakes after
>     somehow failing to get all the air out. I know that I have.
>
>     possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw
>     threads. In such cases tighten
>
>     the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal
>     and allow the pedal to
>
>     ie you close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy,
>     but it works. The theory is that the air gets past the thread as
>     you close it. Fairly coarse threads. Pretty old bits of
>     iron...plenty of wear.
>
>     If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open
>     the bleeder a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.
>
>     Worth bearing in mind.
>
>     Simon
>
>
> -- 
> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2015.0.6081 / Virusdatabase: 4392/10182 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 07/07/15
>

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  </head>
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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">I have used an Eezibleed or similar
      lightly pressurized system for over 50 years and it has always
      worked for me on a very large range of vehicles. <br>
      A one man job that is done efficiently and quickly.<br>
      As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust back
      your drum brakes and push back the calliper pistons (using e few
      small wedges between pads and discs) to minimise the volume in the
      brake cylinders and callipers if the bleed nipples are positioned
      in such a way that air can remain trapped in the cylinders or
      callipers, although this is a fairly rare occurrence.<br>
      <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      tom mitchell schreef op 8-7-2015 om 1:49:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 15 (filtered
        medium)">
      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>The only time I ‘ve been able to get
            a vacuum bleeder to work satisfactorily using a short brake
            line screwed in-place of the bleeder.</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>It can be a bit messy yet works well.</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Mike, any chance of some pictures of
            what you have?</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Tom Mitchell</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>1965 Austin Healey BJ8 MKIII</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><span> Healeys
            [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:[email-masked]">mailto:[email-masked]</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael
            Salter<br>
            <b>Sent:</b> Saturday, July 04, 2015 6:35 PM<br>
            <b>To:</b> John Rowe<br>
            <b>Cc:</b> Healey List<br>
            <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
        <div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span>With out any question the best
                bleeder I have ever used was the Snap-On diaphragm brake
                bleeder that I have owned for at least 30 years. I don't
                know if they are still available.</span></p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span>I had to make a special adaptor
                (using old ski book spring clips) to secure it to a
                Healey brake fluid reservoir but it makes bleeding
                brakes a really simple one person job which is fast and
                completely removes air from the system.</span></p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Like most commenters I have found
                that the vacuum bleeders never produced satisfactory
                results.</span></p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span>AND I never bleed the brakes in
                any particular order...:-)</span></p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Michael S</span></p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span>BN1 #174<br>
                <br>
              </span></p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
          </div>
        </div>
        <div>
          <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal">On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 6:13 PM, John
              Rowe &lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
              wrote:</p>
            <blockquote>
              <div>
                <div>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU">I have never
                      had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that
                      same reason of air entering through the thread of
                      the bleeder screw. The bubbles never stop coming! 
                      Always resort to the time honoured version of
                      opening and closing screws</span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU">John Rowe</span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU">Qld Australia</span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU"> </span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU"> </span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <div>
                    <div>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><span>
                          Healeys [mailto:<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                            href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                            target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>]
                          <b>On Behalf Of </b>Simon Lachlan<br>
                          <b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM<br>
                          <b>To:</b> 'Healey List'<br>
                          <b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Bleeding brakes</span><span
                          lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                    </div>
                  </div>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-AU"> </span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Bleeding the
                      furthest brakes is all very well, but not
                      infallible. ie it is “best practise” but, in
                      itself does not guarantee success. Many of us have
                      been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow
                      failing to get all the air out. I know that I
                      have.</span><span lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I’ve got
                      various manuals and one of my two BMC has this
                      paragraph:-</span><span lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">“If the
                      bleeding of any cylinder continues without success
                      for a considerable time it is</span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">possible that
                      air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw
                      threads. In such cases tighten</span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">the bleeder
                      screw at the end of each downward stoke of the
                      pedal and allow the pedal to</span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">return fully
                      before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw
                      finally during the last pedal</span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">application.”</span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">ie you close
                      the bleeder while fluid is still coming out.
                      Messy, but it works. The theory is that the air
                      gets past the thread as you close it. Fairly
                      coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty
                      of wear.</span><span lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">If you use an
                      Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open
                      the bleeder a little and leave it open until the
                      bubbles stop.</span><span lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Worth bearing
                      in mind.</span><span lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon</span><span
                      lang="EN-AU"></span></p>
                </div>
              </div>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><br>
                _______________________________________________<br>
                Support Team.Net <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                  href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
                Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>
                Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                  href="http://www.team.net/archive" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
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                  href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
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                <br>
              </p>
            </blockquote>
          </div>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><br>
            <br>
            <br>
            -- </p>
          <div>
            <div>
              <div>
                <div>
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><i><span>If you can't fix it with
                        a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</span></i></p>
                </div>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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</pre>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
        Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
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        Versie: 2015.0.6081 / Virusdatabase: 4392/10182 - datum van
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From: Larry Varley <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2015 18:22:16 +1000

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Kees, this is not a rare occurrence in a BN1, stop and take a look at 
the BN1 front wheel cylinder layout. If the brakes are not de adjusted 
there is an air pocket in the wheel cylinders above the height of the 
bleed screw. The air will be very difficult to bleed out as it is 
trapped. I have advised many to do this and they found an immediate 
improvement in the bleeding process and improvement in pedal firmness.
Regards
Larry Varley

On 8/07/2015 4:44 PM, Oudesluys wrote:
> I have used an Eezibleed or similar lightly pressurized system for 
> over 50 years and it has always worked for me on a very large range of 
> vehicles.
> As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust back your 
> drum brakes and push back the calliper pistons (using e few small 
> wedges between pads and discs) to minimise the volume in the brake 
> cylinders and callipers if the bleed nipples are positioned in such a 
> way that air can remain trapped in the cylinders or callipers, 
> although this is a fairly rare occurrence.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>

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    Kees, this is not a rare occurrence in a BN1, stop and take a look
    at the BN1 front wheel cylinder layout. If the brakes are not de
    adjusted there is an air pocket in the wheel cylinders above the
    height of the bleed screw. The air will be very difficult to bleed
    out as it is trapped. I have advised many to do this and they found
    an immediate improvement in the bleeding process and improvement in
    pedal firmness. <br>
    Regards<br>
    Larry Varley<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/07/2015 4:44 PM, Oudesluys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
      <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">I have used an Eezibleed or similar
        lightly pressurized system for over 50 years and it has always
        worked for me on a very large range of vehicles. <br>
        A one man job that is done efficiently and quickly.<br>
        As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust back
        your drum brakes and push back the calliper pistons (using e few
        small wedges between pads and discs) to minimise the volume in
        the brake cylinders and callipers if the bleed nipples are
        positioned in such a way that air can remain trapped in the
        cylinders or callipers, although this is a fairly rare
        occurrence.<br>
        <br>
        Kees Oudesluijs<br>
        <br>
        <br>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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[email-masked]

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From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2015 10:59:40 +0200

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Hi Larry,
Not a rare occurrence in BN1, but a BN1 is a rare occurrence on its own 
in the car world;-) . Most brake circuits are properly designed to make 
bleeding the system an easy straight forward job.
Same problems on some old Landrovers.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs

Larry Varley schreef op 8-7-2015 om 10:22:
>> over 50 years and it has always worked for me on a very large range 
>> of vehicles.
> Versie: 2015.0.6081 / Virusdatabase: 4392/10186 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 07/08/15
>

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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Hi Larry,<br>
      Not a rare occurrence in BN1, but a BN1 is a rare occurrence on
      its own in the car world<span class="moz-smiley-s3"><span> ;-) </span></span>.
      Most brake circuits are properly designed to make bleeding the
      system an easy straight forward job.<br>
      Same problems on some old Landrovers.<br>
      Cheers,<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Larry Varley schreef op 8-7-2015 om 10:22:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      Kees, this is not a rare occurrence in a BN1, stop and take a look
      at the BN1 front wheel cylinder layout. If the brakes are not de
      adjusted there is an air pocket in the wheel cylinders above the
      height of the bleed screw. The air will be very difficult to bleed
      out as it is trapped. I have advised many to do this and they
      found an immediate improvement in the bleeding process and
      improvement in pedal firmness. <br>
      Regards<br>
      Larry Varley<br>
      <br>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/07/2015 4:44 PM, Oudesluys
        wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
        <div class="moz-cite-prefix">I have used an Eezibleed or similar
          lightly pressurized system for over 50 years and it has always
          worked for me on a very large range of vehicles. <br>
          A one man job that is done efficiently and quickly.<br>
          As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust back
          your drum brakes and push back the calliper pistons (using e
          few small wedges between pads and discs) to minimise the
          volume in the brake cylinders and callipers if the bleed
          nipples are positioned in such a way that air can remain
          trapped in the cylinders or callipers, although this is a
          fairly rare occurrence.<br>
          <br>
          Kees Oudesluijs<br>
          <br>
          <br>
        </div>
      </blockquote>
      <br>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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</pre>
      <br>
        Versie: 2015.0.6081 / Virusdatabase: 4392/10186 - datum van
        uitgifte: 07/08/15</p>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Larry Varley <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2015 20:00:27 +1000

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============7891195902910270074==
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--------------020209010707010003050309
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Kees, obviously I mistook this for a Healey specific list :) 
generalized comments can be misleading to those that look for good 
advise from the list. No offense intended.
Cheers
Larry Varley

On 8/07/2015 6:59 PM, Oudesluys wrote:
> Hi Larry,
> Not a rare occurrence in BN1, but a BN1 is a rare occurrence on its 
> own in the car world;-) . Most brake circuits are properly designed to 
> make bleeding the system an easy straight forward job.
>> the BN1 front wheel cylinder layout. If the brakes are not de 
>> pedal firmness.
>>> cylinders and callipers if the bleed nipples are positioned in such 
>>> a way that air can remain trapped in the cylinders or callipers, 
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> [email-masked]
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>>
>>
>>
> Version: 2015.0.6037 / Virus Database: 4365/10186 - Release Date: 07/08/15
>

--------------020209010707010003050309
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    Hi Kees, obviously I mistook this for a Healey specific list :)
    generalized comments can be misleading to those that look for good
    advise from the list. No offense intended.<br>
    Cheers<br>
    Larry Varley<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/07/2015 6:59 PM, Oudesluys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
      <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Hi Larry,<br>
        Not a rare occurrence in BN1, but a BN1 is a rare occurrence on
        its own in the car world<span class="moz-smiley-s3"><span> ;-) </span></span>.
        Most brake circuits are properly designed to make bleeding the
        system an easy straight forward job.<br>
        Same problems on some old Landrovers.<br>
        Cheers,<br>
        Kees Oudesluijs<br>
        <br>
        <br>
        <br>
        Larry Varley schreef op 8-7-2015 om 10:22:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
        <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; ">
        Kees, this is not a rare occurrence in a BN1, stop and take a
        look at the BN1 front wheel cylinder layout. If the brakes are
        not de adjusted there is an air pocket in the wheel cylinders
        above the height of the bleed screw. The air will be very
        difficult to bleed out as it is trapped. I have advised many to
        do this and they found an immediate improvement in the bleeding
        process and improvement in pedal firmness. <br>
        Regards<br>
        Larry Varley<br>
        <br>
        <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/07/2015 4:44 PM, Oudesluys
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
          <div class="moz-cite-prefix">I have used an Eezibleed or
            similar lightly pressurized system for over 50 years and it
            has always worked for me on a very large range of vehicles.
            <br>
            A one man job that is done efficiently and quickly.<br>
            As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust
            back your drum brakes and push back the calliper pistons
            (using e few small wedges between pads and discs) to
            minimise the volume in the brake cylinders and callipers if
            the bleed nipples are positioned in such a way that air can
            remain trapped in the cylinders or callipers, although this
            is a fairly rare occurrence.<br>
            <br>
            Kees Oudesluijs<br>
            <br>
            <br>
          </div>
        </blockquote>
        <br>
        <br>
        <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
        <br>
        <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

<a moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
<a moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>

</pre>
        <br>
        <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html;
          charset=utf-8">

</pre>
      <br>
        Version: 2015.0.6037 / Virus Database: 4365/10186 - Release
        Date: 07/08/15</p>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------020209010707010003050309--

--===============7891195902910270074==
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[email-masked]

--===============7891195902910270074==--

---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2015 12:31:59 +0200

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============2975543445637747814==
 boundary="------------010003050607070303030204"

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--------------010003050607070303030204
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Larry,

No offence taken at all. Did not even think of that. Donot worry, I 
cannot easily be offended anyway and I am always surprised that some on 
the list are a bit inflammable.
I often make comments that apply to classic cars in general and are not 
Healey specific. Many have other cars as well.

Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs

Larry Varley schreef op 8-7-2015 om 12:00:
>> own in the car world;-) . Most brake circuits are properly designed 
>> to make bleeding the system an easy straight forward job.
>>> uitgifte: 07/08/15
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>>
>>
>>

--------------010003050607070303030204
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Hi Larry,<br>
      <br>
      No offence taken at all. Did not even think of that. Donot worry,
      I cannot easily be offended anyway and I am always surprised that
      some on the list are a bit inflammable.<br>
      I often make comments that apply to classic cars in general and
      are not Healey specific. Many have other cars as well.<br>
      <br>
      Cheers,<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Larry Varley schreef op 8-7-2015 om 12:00:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      Hi Kees, obviously I mistook this for a Healey specific list :)
      generalized comments can be misleading to those that look for good
      advise from the list. No offense intended.<br>
      Cheers<br>
      Larry Varley<br>
      <br>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/07/2015 6:59 PM, Oudesluys
        wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
        <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Hi Larry,<br>
          Not a rare occurrence in BN1, but a BN1 is a rare occurrence
          on its own in the car world<span class="moz-smiley-s3"><span>
              ;-) </span></span>. Most brake circuits are properly
          designed to make bleeding the system an easy straight forward
          job.<br>
          Same problems on some old Landrovers.<br>
          Cheers,<br>
          Kees Oudesluijs<br>
          <br>
          <br>
          <br>
          Larry Varley schreef op 8-7-2015 om 10:22:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
          type="cite"> Kees, this is not a rare occurrence in a BN1,
          stop and take a look at the BN1 front wheel cylinder layout.
          If the brakes are not de adjusted there is an air pocket in
          the wheel cylinders above the height of the bleed screw. The
          air will be very difficult to bleed out as it is trapped. I
          have advised many to do this and they found an immediate
          improvement in the bleeding process and improvement in pedal
          firmness. <br>
          Regards<br>
          Larry Varley<br>
          <br>
          <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/07/2015 4:44 PM, Oudesluys
            wrote:<br>
          </div>
          <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
            <div class="moz-cite-prefix">I have used an Eezibleed or
              similar lightly pressurized system for over 50 years and
              it has always worked for me on a very large range of
              vehicles. <br>
              A one man job that is done efficiently and quickly.<br>
              As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust
              back your drum brakes and push back the calliper pistons
              (using e few small wedges between pads and discs) to
              minimise the volume in the brake cylinders and callipers
              if the bleed nipples are positioned in such a way that air
              can remain trapped in the cylinders or callipers, although
              this is a fairly rare occurrence.<br>
              <br>
              Kees Oudesluijs<br>
              <br>
              <br>
            </div>
          </blockquote>
          <br>
          <br>
          <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
          <br>
          <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

</pre>
          <br>

</pre>
        <br>
        <p class="">No virus found in this message.<br>

</pre>
      <br>

--------------010003050607070303030204--

--===============2975543445637747814==
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[email-masked]

--===============2975543445637747814==--

---

From: "David Nock" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2015 08:28:30 -0700

--===============5480575652890839800==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00AB_01D0B958.12171E70"

------=_NextPart_000_00AB_01D0B958.12171E70
	charset="utf-8"
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At one time there was a kit available that you put a adaptor cap on the =
reservoir and used then there was a hose with an adaptor the attached to =
a tire. You then used the pressure in the tire as a pressure bleeder.=20

Have not seen one in a long time, this is that same theory as the =
pressure bleeder here in the shop.

You could make on by using getting a new cap for you reservoir. Then use =
your old one and drill a hole and install an adaptor with hose. Then =
using a adaptor and  hose off a tire pump attach to the reservoir. Then =
go to each bleeder and bleed the system.=20

David Nock
[email-masked]
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Oudesluys=20
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 3:31 AM
To: [email-masked]=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes

Hi Larry,

No offence taken at all. Did not even think of that. Donot worry, I =
cannot easily be offended anyway and I am always surprised that some on =
the list are a bit inflammable.
I often make comments that apply to classic cars in general and are not =
Healey specific. Many have other cars as well.

Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs

  Hi Kees, obviously I mistook this for a Healey specific list :) =
generalized comments can be misleading to those that look for good =
advise from the list. No offense intended.
  Cheers
  Larry Varley

    Hi Larry,
    Not a rare occurrence in BN1, but a BN1 is a rare occurrence on its =
own in the car world ;-) . Most brake circuits are properly designed to =
make bleeding the system an easy straight forward job.
    Same problems on some old Landrovers.
    Cheers,
    Kees Oudesluijs

      Kees, this is not a rare occurrence in a BN1, stop and take a look =
at the BN1 front wheel cylinder layout. If the brakes are not de =
adjusted there is an air pocket in the wheel cylinders above the height =
of the bleed screw. The air will be very difficult to bleed out as it is =
trapped. I have advised many to do this and they found an immediate =
improvement in the bleeding process and improvement in pedal firmness.=20
      Regards
      Larry Varley

        I have used an Eezibleed or similar lightly pressurized system =
for over 50 years and it has always worked for me on a very large range =
of vehicles.=20
        A one man job that is done efficiently and quickly.
        As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust back =
your drum brakes and push back the calliper pistons (using e few small =
wedges between pads and discs) to minimise the volume in the brake =
cylinders and callipers if the bleed nipples are positioned in such a =
way that air can remain trapped in the cylinders or callipers, although =
this is a fairly rare occurrence.

        Kees Oudesluijs

      =20

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

      =20

      Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
      Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
      Versie: 2015.0.6081 / Virusdatabase: 4392/10186 - datum van =
uitgifte: 07/08/15

    =20

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

    =20

    No virus found in this message.
    Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
    Version: 2015.0.6037 / Virus Database: 4365/10186 - Release Date: =
07/08/15

  =20

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

  =20

  Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
  Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
  Versie: 2015.0.6081 / Virusdatabase: 4392/10186 - datum van uitgifte: =
07/08/15

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

------=_NextPart_000_00AB_01D0B958.12171E70
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr bgColor=3D#ffffff text=3D#000000>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>At one time there was a kit available that you put a adaptor cap on =
the=20
reservoir and used then there was a hose with an adaptor the attached to =
a tire.=20
You then used the pressure in the tire as a pressure bleeder. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Have not seen one in a long time, this is that same theory as the =
pressure=20
bleeder here in the shop.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You could make on by using getting a new cap for you reservoir. =
Then use=20
your old one and drill a hole and install an adaptor with hose. Then =
using a=20
adaptor and&nbsp; hose off a tire pump attach to the reservoir. Then go =
to each=20
bleeder and bleed the system. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: =
#000000">David=20
Nock<BR>[email-masked]<BR>209 948=20
8767<BR>www.britishcarspecialists.com</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Oudesluys</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, July 08, 2015 3:31 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV class=3Dmoz-cite-prefix>Hi Larry,<BR><BR>No offence taken at all. =
Did not=20
even think of that. Donot worry, I cannot easily be offended anyway and =
I am=20
always surprised that some on the list are a bit inflammable.<BR>I often =
make=20
comments that apply to classic cars in general and are not Healey =
specific. Many=20
have other cars as well.<BR><BR>Cheers,<BR>Kees=20
Oudesluijs<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>Larry Varley schreef op 8-7-2015 om=20
12:00:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite=3Dmid:[email-masked] type=3D"cite">
  <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
http-equiv=3DContext-Type>Hi Kees,=20
  obviously I mistook this for a Healey specific list :) generalized =
comments=20
  can be misleading to those that look for good advise from the list. No =
offense=20
  intended.<BR>Cheers<BR>Larry Varley<BR><BR>
  <DIV class=3Dmoz-cite-prefix>On 8/07/2015 6:59 PM, Oudesluys =
wrote:<BR></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE cite=3Dmid:[email-masked] type=3D"cite">
    <DIV class=3Dmoz-cite-prefix>Hi Larry,<BR>Not a rare occurrence in =
BN1, but a=20
    BN1 is a rare occurrence on its own in the car world<SPAN=20
    class=3Dmoz-smiley-s3><SPAN> ;-) </SPAN></SPAN>. Most brake circuits =
are=20
    properly designed to make bleeding the system an easy straight =
forward=20
    job.<BR>Same problems on some old Landrovers.<BR>Cheers,<BR>Kees=20
    Oudesluijs<BR><BR><BR><BR>Larry Varley schreef op 8-7-2015 om=20
    10:22:<BR></DIV>
    <BLOCKQUOTE cite=3Dmid:[email-masked] =
type=3D"cite">Kees, this=20
      is not a rare occurrence in a BN1, stop and take a look at the BN1 =
front=20
      wheel cylinder layout. If the brakes are not de adjusted there is =
an air=20
      pocket in the wheel cylinders above the height of the bleed screw. =
The air=20
      will be very difficult to bleed out as it is trapped. I have =
advised many=20
      to do this and they found an immediate improvement in the bleeding =
process=20
      and improvement in pedal firmness. <BR>Regards<BR>Larry =
Varley<BR><BR>
      <DIV class=3Dmoz-cite-prefix>On 8/07/2015 4:44 PM, Oudesluys=20
wrote:<BR></DIV>
      <BLOCKQUOTE cite=3Dmid:[email-masked] type=3D"cite">
        <DIV class=3Dmoz-cite-prefix>I have used an Eezibleed or similar =
lightly=20
        pressurized system for over 50 years and it has always worked =
for me on=20
        a very large range of vehicles. <BR>A one man job that is done=20
        efficiently and quickly.<BR>As remarked before, it is generally =
a good=20
        idea to adjust back your drum brakes and push back the calliper =
pistons=20
        (using e few small wedges between pads and discs) to minimise =
the volume=20
        in the brake cylinders and callipers if the bleed nipples are =
positioned=20
        in such a way that air can remain trapped in the cylinders or =
callipers,=20
        although this is a fairly rare occurrence.<BR><BR>Kees=20
        Oudesluijs<BR><BR><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>
      <FIELDSET class=3DmimeAttachmentHeader></FIELDSET> <BR><PRE =
wrap=3D"">_______________________________________________
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
moz-do-not-send=3D"true">http://www.team.net/donate.html</A>
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moz-do-not-send=3D"true">http://www.team.net/forums</A>

<A class=3Dmoz-txt-link-abbreviated =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
moz-do-not-send=3D"true">[email-masked]</A>
<A class=3Dmoz-txt-link-freetext =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" =
moz-do-not-send=3D"true">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</=
A>

href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.=
nl" =
moz-do-not-send=3D"true">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/co=
[email-masked]</A>

</PRE><BR>
      <FIELDSET class=3DmimeAttachmentHeader></FIELDSET> <BR>
      <P>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<BR>Gecontroleerd door AVG - =
<A=20
      href=3D"http://www.avg.com"=20
      moz-do-not-send=3D"true">www.avg.com</A><BR>Versie: 2015.0.6081 /=20
      Virusdatabase: 4392/10186 - datum van uitgifte:=20
    07/08/15</P></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>
    <FIELDSET class=3DmimeAttachmentHeader></FIELDSET> <BR><PRE =
wrap=3D"">_______________________________________________
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From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2015 18:05:32 +0200

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============2585617835304755063==
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That is the Eezibleed from Gunson. Still widely available. Easy to get 
through eBay, www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1818 or Amazon.co.uk.
I have improvised often enough using an old bicycle inner tyre.
Kees Oudesluijs

David Nock schreef op 8-7-2015 om 17:28:
> At one time there was a kit available that you put a adaptor cap on 
> the reservoir and used then there was a hose with an adaptor the 
> attached to a tire. You then used the pressure in the tire as a 
> pressure bleeder.
> Have not seen one in a long time, this is that same theory as the 
> You could make on by using getting a new cap for you reservoir. Then 
> use your old one and drill a hole and install an adaptor with hose. 
> Then using a adaptor and  hose off a tire pump attach to the 
> reservoir. Then go to each bleeder and bleed the system.
> David Nock
> [email-masked]
> 209 948 8767
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 08, 2015 3:31 AM
> cannot easily be offended anyway and I am always surprised that some 
> on the list are a bit inflammable.
> I often make comments that apply to classic cars in general and are 
> not Healey specific. Many have other cars as well.
>
> Cheers,
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>
>>>>> over 50 years and it has always worked for me on a very large 
>>>>> range of vehicles.
>>>>> callipers, although this is a fairly rare occurrence.
>>>>>
>>>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>

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<html>
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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">That is the Eezibleed from Gunson.
      Still widely available. Easy to get through eBay,
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1818">www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1818</a> or Amazon.co.uk.<br>
      I have improvised often enough using an old bicycle inner tyre.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      David Nock schreef op 8-7-2015 om 17:28:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:2BB02CE4B0CC4D1F8A1CD05F210D9DA4@DavidNockHP"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div>
          <div>At one time there was a kit available that you put a
            adaptor cap on the reservoir and used then there was a hose
            with an adaptor the attached to a tire. You then used the
            pressure in the tire as a pressure bleeder. </div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>Have not seen one in a long time, this is that same
            theory as the pressure bleeder here in the shop.</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>You could make on by using getting a new cap for you
            reservoir. Then use your old one and drill a hole and
            install an adaptor with hose. Then using a adaptor and  hose
            off a tire pump attach to the reservoir. Then go to each
            bleeder and bleed the system. </div>
          <div> </div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>David Nock<br>
            <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
            209 948 8767<br>
            <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.britishcarspecialists.com">www.britishcarspecialists.com</a></div>
          <div>
            <div>
              <div> </div>
              <div>
                <div><b>From:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                    title="[email-masked]"
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]">Oudesluys</a> </div>
                <div><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, July 08, 2015 3:31 AM</div>
                <div><b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                    title="[email-masked]"
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
                </div>
                <div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes</div>
              </div>
            </div>
            <div> </div>
          </div>
          <div>
            <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Hi Larry,<br>
              <br>
              No offence taken at all. Did not even think of that. Donot
              worry, I cannot easily be offended anyway and I am always
              surprised that some on the list are a bit inflammable.<br>
              I often make comments that apply to classic cars in
              general and are not Healey specific. Many have other cars
              as well.<br>
              <br>
              Cheers,<br>
              Kees Oudesluijs<br>
              <br>
              <br>
              <br>
              <br>
              Larry Varley schreef op 8-7-2015 om 12:00:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
              type="cite"> Hi Kees, obviously I mistook this for a
              Healey specific list :) generalized comments can be
              misleading to those that look for good advise from the
              list. No offense intended.<br>
              Cheers<br>
              Larry Varley<br>
              <br>
              <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/07/2015 6:59 PM,
                Oudesluys wrote:<br>
              </div>
              <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
                type="cite">
                <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Hi Larry,<br>
                  Not a rare occurrence in BN1, but a BN1 is a rare
                  occurrence on its own in the car world<span
                    class="moz-smiley-s3"><span> ;-) </span></span>.
                  Most brake circuits are properly designed to make
                  bleeding the system an easy straight forward job.<br>
                  Same problems on some old Landrovers.<br>
                  Cheers,<br>
                  Kees Oudesluijs<br>
                  <br>
                  <br>
                  <br>
                  Larry Varley schreef op 8-7-2015 om 10:22:<br>
                </div>
                <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
                  type="cite">Kees, this is not a rare occurrence in a
                  BN1, stop and take a look at the BN1 front wheel
                  cylinder layout. If the brakes are not de adjusted
                  there is an air pocket in the wheel cylinders above
                  the height of the bleed screw. The air will be very
                  difficult to bleed out as it is trapped. I have
                  advised many to do this and they found an immediate
                  improvement in the bleeding process and improvement in
                  pedal firmness. <br>
                  Regards<br>
                  Larry Varley<br>
                  <br>
                  <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/07/2015 4:44 PM,
                    Oudesluys wrote:<br>
                  </div>
                  <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
                    type="cite">
                    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">I have used an
                      Eezibleed or similar lightly pressurized system
                      for over 50 years and it has always worked for me
                      on a very large range of vehicles. <br>
                      A one man job that is done efficiently and
                      quickly.<br>
                      As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to
                      adjust back your drum brakes and push back the
                      calliper pistons (using e few small wedges between
                      pads and discs) to minimise the volume in the
                      brake cylinders and callipers if the bleed nipples
                      are positioned in such a way that air can remain
                      trapped in the cylinders or callipers, although
                      this is a fairly rare occurrence.<br>
                      <br>
                      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
                      <br>
                      <br>
                    </div>
                  </blockquote>
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[email-masked]

--===============2585617835304755063==--

---

From: "Simon Lachlan" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2015 20:28:18 +0100

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Seems that you are describing Gunson=E2=80=99s Eazibleed kit. Still =
available.

Simon

=20

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of David =
Nock
Sent: 08 July 2015 16:29
To: Oudesluys; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes

=20

=20

=20

=20

=20

David Nock
[email-masked]
209 948 8767

=20

=20

Hi Larry,

Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs

Hi Larry,
Not a rare occurrence in BN1, but a BN1 is a rare occurrence on its own =
in the car world ;-) . Most brake circuits are properly designed to make =
bleeding the system an easy straight forward job.
Same problems on some old Landrovers.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs

Kees, this is not a rare occurrence in a BN1, stop and take a look at =
the BN1 front wheel cylinder layout. If the brakes are not de adjusted =
there is an air pocket in the wheel cylinders above the height of the =
bleed screw. The air will be very difficult to bleed out as it is =
trapped. I have advised many to do this and they found an immediate =
improvement in the bleeding process and improvement in pedal firmness.=20
Regards
Larry Varley

I have used an Eezibleed or similar lightly pressurized system for over =
50 years and it has always worked for me on a very large range of =
vehicles.=20
A one man job that is done efficiently and quickly.
As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust back your drum =
brakes and push back the calliper pistons (using e few small wedges =
between pads and discs) to minimise the volume in the brake cylinders =
and callipers if the bleed nipples are positioned in such a way that air =
can remain trapped in the cylinders or callipers, although this is a =
fairly rare occurrence.

Kees Oudesluijs

=20

  _____ =20

[email-masked]

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lang=3DEN-GB link=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Seems that you are describing Gunson=E2=80=99s Eazibleed kit. Still =
available.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'> Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>David Nock<br><b>Sent:</b> 08 July 2015 16:29<br><b>To:</b> =
Oudesluys; [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] =
Bleeding brakes<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Century","serif"'>At one =
time there was a kit available that you put a adaptor cap on the =
reservoir and used then there was a hose with an adaptor the attached to =
a tire. You then used the pressure in the tire as a pressure bleeder. =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Century","serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div=
><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Century","serif"'>Have not seen one in a long =
time, this is that same theory as the pressure bleeder here in the =
shop.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Century","serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div=
><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Century","serif"'>You could make on by using =
getting a new cap for you reservoir. Then use your old one and drill a =
hole and install an adaptor with hose. Then using a adaptor and&nbsp; =
hose off a tire pump attach to the reservoir. Then go to each bleeder =
and bleed the system. <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Century","serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div=
><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Century","serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div=
><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Century","serif"'>David Nock<br><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>20=
9 948 8767<br><a =
href=3D"http://www.britishcarspecialists.com">www.britishcarspecialists.c=
om</a><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></span></p></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:whitesmoke'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
title=3D"[email-masked]">Oudesluys</a> =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:whitesmoke'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>Sent:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Wednesday, July 08, 2015 3:31 AM<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:whitesmoke'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>To:</span></=
b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
title=3D"[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:whitesmoke'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>Subject:</sp=
an></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Re: =
[Healeys] Bleeding brakes<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
</div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Hi Larry,<br><br>No offence =
taken at all. Did not even think of that. Donot worry, I cannot easily =
be offended anyway and I am always surprised that some on the list are a =
bit inflammable.<br>I often make comments that apply to classic cars in =
general and are not Healey specific. Many have other cars as =
well.<br><br>Cheers,<br>Kees Oudesluijs<br><br><br><br><br>Larry Varley =
schreef op 8-7-2015 om 12:00:<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Hi Kees, obviously I =
mistook this for a Healey specific list :) generalized comments can be =
misleading to those that look for good advise from the list. No offense =
intended.<br>Cheers<br>Larry Varley<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>On =
8/07/2015 6:59 PM, Oudesluys =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Hi =
Larry,<br>Not a rare occurrence in BN1, but a BN1 is a rare occurrence =
on its own in the car world<span class=3Dmoz-smiley-s3> ;-) </span>. =
Most brake circuits are properly designed to make bleeding the system an =
easy straight forward job.<br>Same problems on some old =
Landrovers.<br>Cheers,<br>Kees Oudesluijs<br><br><br><br>Larry Varley =
schreef op 8-7-2015 om 10:22:<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Kees, this is not a rare =
occurrence in a BN1, stop and take a look at the BN1 front wheel =
cylinder layout. If the brakes are not de adjusted there is an air =
pocket in the wheel cylinders above the height of the bleed screw. The =
air will be very difficult to bleed out as it is trapped. I have advised =
many to do this and they found an immediate improvement in the bleeding =
process and improvement in pedal firmness. <br>Regards<br>Larry =
Varley<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>On 8/07/2015 4:44 PM, =
Oudesluys wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>I have used an Eezibleed or =
similar lightly pressurized system for over 50 years and it has always =
worked for me on a very large range of vehicles. <br>A one man job that =
is done efficiently and quickly.<br>As remarked before, it is generally =
a good idea to adjust back your drum brakes and push back the calliper =
pistons (using e few small wedges between pads and discs) to minimise =
the volume in the brake cylinders and callipers if the bleed nipples are =
positioned in such a way that air can remain trapped in the cylinders or =
callipers, although this is a fairly rare occurrence.<br><br>Kees =
Oudesluijs<br><br><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><br><br><br><br><o:p></o:p><=
/span></p><pre>_______________________________________________<o:p></o:p>=
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