Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2016 11:22:12 +0100

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Raw linseed oil will dry. I have polished several mahogany tables and 
chairs using it when I restored antique furniture. A lot of 17th/18th 
century mahogany furniture was polished using this method, in most cases 
this was later replaced using French polishing with shellac, being 
quicker and giving a very high gloss finish but needed more skill. The 
trick is to apply a very very thin layer rubbing it on using a cloth 
over several weeks/months. It will give a very nice satin finish.
If you apply it to thick, it will not dry and it all will end up in a 
sticky mess that has to be removed before you start again.
To let it dry out quicker one could use a small bit of siccative.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 1-1-2016 om 3:35 schreef richard mayor:
> Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries. Check out boiled 
> linseed oil.
>
> On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris Scholz 
>
>     I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from
>     there. Thanks for the input.
>
>     Sent from my iPhone
>     Chris Scholz OD
>
>     On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker
>     wrote:
>
>>     HELLO
>>
>>     I was just thinking of doing mine also so this is good timing:
>>
>>     My wheel is I believe aMotta but much lighter wood
>>
>>     Please define –White spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?
>>
>>     Also PU solvent based PU?
>>
>>     Thanks-everything else I agree with
>>
>>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] *On Behalf
>>     Of *Oudesluys
>>     *Sent:* Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM
>>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel
>>
>>     Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and
>>     patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it
>>     with white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge
>>     and rubbing in some linseed oil.
>>     Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It
>>     may have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if
>>     you cannot find anything.
>>
>>
>>     Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic
>>     paint. If that is the case this must be completely removed before
>>     repainting.
>>     Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with
>>     white spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until
>>     the colour is even and all lacquer is removed but remove as
>>     little wood/aluminium material as possible. Remove all the dust
>>     carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based
>>     clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5
>>     coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly.
>>     Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly
>>     with 400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden
>>     wheels using a satin finish, but others prefer gloss.
>>     Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw
>>     linseed oil and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at
>>     summer temperatures.
>>     Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut
>>     can be used as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks
>>     like mahogany ply.
>>     It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered
>>     Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).
>>
>>     I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer
>>     and also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The
>>     drawback may be that in the beginning your hands will smell of
>>     linseed oil.
>>
>>     Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>     Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:
>>
>>         I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were black plastic.
>>
>>           
>>
>>
>>
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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Raw linseed oil will dry. I have
      polished several mahogany tables and chairs using it when I
      restored antique furniture. A lot of 17th/18th century mahogany
      furniture was polished using this method, in most cases this was
      later replaced using French polishing with shellac, being quicker
      and giving a very high gloss finish but needed more skill. The
      trick is to apply a very very thin layer rubbing it on using a
      cloth over several weeks/months. It will give a very nice satin
      finish.<br>
      If you apply it to thick, it will not dry and it all will end up
      in a sticky mess that has to be removed before you start again.<br>
      To let it dry out quicker one could use a small bit of siccative.<br>
      <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 1-1-2016 om 3:35 schreef richard mayor:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries.
        Check out boiled linseed oil.  <br>
      </div>
      <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris
          Scholz <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span>
          wrote:<br>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote">
            <div dir="auto">
              <div>I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take
                it from there. Thanks for the input. <br>
                <br>
                Sent from my iPhone
                <div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
              </div>
              <div><br>
                On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker &lt;<a
                  moz-do-not-send="true"
                  href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                  target="_blank"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></a>&gt;
                wrote:<br>
                <br>
              </div>
              <blockquote type="cite">
                <div>
                  <div>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>HELLO</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>I was just thinking of
                        doing mine also so this is good timing:</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>My wheel is I believe
                        aMotta but much lighter wood</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Please define –White
                        spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Also PU solvent based PU?</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks-everything else I
                        agree with</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                    <div>
                      <div>
                        <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><span>
                            Healeys [<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                              href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                              target="_blank">mailto:[email-masked]</a>]
                            <b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br>
                            <b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015
                            12:43 PM<br>
                            <b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                              href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                              target="_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
                            <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish
                            steering wheel</span></p>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
                    <div>
                      <p class="MsoNormal">Of what I can see the
                        steering wheel does look very nice and
                        patinated. I would not do anything to it apart
                        from cleaning it with white spirits on a rough
                        cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in
                        some linseed oil.<br>
                        Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of
                        the aluminium. It may have been coated only with
                        a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot
                        find anything.<br>
                        <br>
                        <br>
                        Depending on the age of the wheel it could be
                        coated with acrylic paint. If that is the case
                        this must be completely removed before
                        repainting.<br>
                        Start with degreasing the wood very carefully
                        and thoroughly with white spirits. Sand very
                        lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the
                        colour is even and all lacquer is removed but
                        remove as little wood/aluminium material as
                        possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint
                        using a soft round brush with PU solvent based
                        clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors)
                        with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so
                        the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry
                        thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with
                        400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat
                        wooden wheels using a satin finish, but others
                        prefer gloss.<br>
                        Another method is applying many very very thin
                        coats of raw linseed oil and leave every coat to
                        dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.<br>
                        Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is
                        used but walnut can be used as well. Lighter
                        woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany
                        ply.<br>
                        It is a good idea to try out the process first
                        on an old battered Moto-Lita wheel (same
                        manufacturer).<br>
                        <br>
                        I have done many steering wheels using PU
                        solvent based lacquer and also using raw linseed
                        oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback
                        may be that in the beginning your hands will
                        smell of linseed oil.<br>
                        <br>
                        Kees Oudesluijs<br>
                         <br>
                        Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:</p>
                    </div>
                    <blockquote>
                      <pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were black plastic. </pre>
                      <pre> </pre>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><br>
                        <br>
                        <br>
                      </p>
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From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2016 11:28:43 +0100

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Hi Mark,

Several types of oil can be used, it is what one prefers and have 
experience with.
I could not think of the name Scotchbrite at the time but that was what 
I meant with an abrasive kitchen sponge.

All the best for 2016.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 1-1-2016 om 1:35 schreef Mark Donaldson:
>
> Kees,
>
> I do the same as you - a light clean-up now and then to remove oils 
> from my hands, and road film.  I use either an old 'Scotchbrite' 
> scouring pad, or fine soap-impregnated steel wool, followed by an 
> application of furniture polish on a soft cloth.  Here in New Zealand 
> we use either CO polishing oil, or Neopol.  After the oil has sunk in 
> to the wood there is only a minor smell - and it is rather nice.
>
> My steering wheel is the same as Chris'.  It's been on my BN2 for 
> decades.  It does not appear to have ever been coated in any finish.  
> The principal laminates - alternating dark and light - are Mahogany 
> and Obeche.
>
> Compliments of the season.
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore, NZ
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*Oudesluys [mailto:[email-masked]]
> *Sent:* Friday, 1 January 2016 6:43 a.m.
> *To:* [email-masked]
> patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with 
> white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing 
> in some linseed oil.
> Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It may 
> have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you 
> cannot find anything.
>
>
> white spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the 
> colour is even and all lacquer is removed but remove as little 
> wood/aluminium material as possible. Remove all the dust carefully. 
> Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer 
> (as used on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well 
> over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry 
> thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade in between 
> the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish, but 
> others prefer gloss.
> Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed 
> oil and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer 
> temperatures.
> Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be 
> used as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.
> I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and 
> also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback 
> may be that in the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>> I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the 
>> looks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I 
>> would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it 
>> since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of 
>> wood they used?  Are these maple?  I know they are not original. I 
>> see the original wheels were black plastic.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----

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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Hi Mark,<br>
      <br>
      Several types of oil can be used, it is what one prefers and have
      experience with.<br>
      I could not think of the name Scotchbrite at the time but that was
      what I meant with an abrasive kitchen sponge.<br>
      <br>
      All the best for 2016.<br>
      <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      NL<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 1-1-2016 om 1:35 schreef Mark Donaldson:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:8D980FE1C9AC4E89A6198C50FBB4EFB8@MarkPC"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=us-ascii">
      <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered
        medium)">
      <div class="Section1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Kees,</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>I do the same as you - a light
            clean-up now
            and then to remove oils from my hands, and road film.  I use
            either an old
            'Scotchbrite' scouring pad, or fine soap-impregnated steel
            wool, followed by an
            application of furniture polish on a soft cloth.  Here in
            New Zealand we
            use either CO polishing oil, or Neopol.  After the oil has
            sunk in to the
            wood there is only a minor smell - and it is rather nice.</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>My steering wheel is the same as
            Chris'.
             It's been on my BN2 for decades.  It does not appear to
            have ever
            been coated in any finish.  The principal laminates -
            alternating dark and
            light - are Mahogany and Obeche.</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Compliments of the season.</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Mark</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Ardmore</span><span>, NZ</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
        <div>
          <div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">
              <hr tabindex="-1" width="100%">
            </span></div>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
              lang="EN-US"> Oudesluys [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:[email-masked]">mailto:[email-masked]</a>] <br>
              <b><span>Sent:</span></b> Friday, 1 January 2016 6:43
              a.m.<br>
              <b><span>To:</span></b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
              <b><span>Subject:</span></b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish
              steering wheel</span><span lang="EN-US"></span></p>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
        <div>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Of what I can see the steering
              wheel does look very
              nice and patinated. I would not do anything to it apart
              from cleaning it with
              white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge
              and rubbing in some
              linseed oil.<br>
              Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the
              aluminium. It may have
              been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if
              you cannot find
              anything.<br>
              <br>
              <br>
              Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with
              acrylic paint. If
              that is the case this must be completely removed before
              repainting.<br>
              Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and
              thoroughly with white
              spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until
              the colour is even
              and all lacquer is removed but remove as little
              wood/aluminium material as
              possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a
              soft round brush with
              PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood
              floors) with about 4-5
              coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow
              evenly. Let every coat
              dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400
              grade in between the
              coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin
              finish, but others prefer
              gloss.<br>
              Another method is applying many very very thin coats of
              raw linseed oil and
              leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer
              temperatures.<br>
              Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but
              walnut can be used as
              well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like
              mahogany ply.<br>
              It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old
              battered Moto-Lita
              wheel (same manufacturer).<br>
              <br>
              I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based
              lacquer and also using
              raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback
              may be that in the
              beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.<br>
              <br>
              Kees Oudesluijs<br>
               <br>
              Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:</span></p>
        </div>
        <blockquote
          cite="mid:[email-masked]"
          type="cite">
          <pre wrap=""><span>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were black plastic. </span></pre>
          <pre><span> </span></pre>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span><br>
              <br>
              <br>
            </span></p>
          <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
          <pre><span>_______________________________________________</span></pre>
          <pre><span>Support Team.Net <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span></pre>
          <pre><span>Suggested annual donation  $12.75</span></pre>
          <pre><span>Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span></pre>
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          <pre><span> </span></pre>
          <pre><span><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span></pre>
          <pre><span><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a></span></pre>
          <pre><span> </span></pre>
          <pre><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a></span></pre>
          <pre><span> </span></pre>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span><br>
              <br>
              <br>
            </span></p>
          <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
          <pre><span>-----</span></pre>
          <pre><span>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.</span></pre>
          <pre><span>Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</a></span></pre>
          <pre><span>Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: 12/31/15</span></pre>
        </blockquote>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
      </div>
      <p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
        Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
          href="http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</a><br>
        Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11296 - datum van
        uitgifte: 12/31/15</p>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------090102000001040502060606--

--===============5926666554030678667==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============5926666554030678667==--

---

From: Charlie <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2016 13:48:01 +0000 (UTC)

--===============8493523838935274131==
	boundary="----=_Part_15028095_736022506.1451656081766"

------=_Part_15028095_736022506.1451656081766
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I believe that boiled linseed oil will also soften the existing finish to t=
he point that it will pick up dirt and become quite ugly. Old finishes on f=
urniture were formulated with linseed oil and over the years they got soft,=
 picked up dirt and got ugly. That process would be accelerated with someth=
ing that in in your hands constantly and would always be sticky.=20

I would suggest using Restore-A-Finish that is easy to use, yet will not ta=
ke any wood away to expose the rivets more. See=20
http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php . When I did the sea=
rch for this I saw that Lowe's and Home Depot may carry it. I have used it =
on furniture and also to refinish the hardwood floor in my 60 year old hous=
e. It worked great for the floors, but was more work on the furniture that =
I worked on because the old finish was harder. The result will be a much ha=
rder finish than anything with linseed oil in it, which is what you want on=
 a steering wheel, gear shift knob, or anything being touched often.=20

As you will see at the website, there are a lot of different 'colors' so yo=
u can match what your steering wheel was originally.=20

Charlie Baldwin=20

----- Original Message -----

From: "richard mayor" <[email-masked]>=20
To: [email-masked]=20
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 9:35:29 PM=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel=20

Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries. Check out boiled linseed =
oil.=20

On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris Scholz < [email-masked]=
 > wrote:=20

I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from there. Thanks =
for the input.=20

Sent from my iPhone=20
Chris Scholz OD=20

On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker < [email-masked] > wr=
ote:=20

<blockquote>

HELLO=20

I was just thinking of doing mine also so this is good timing:=20

My wheel is I believe aMotta but much lighter wood=20

Please define =E2=80=93White spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?=20

Also PU solvent based PU?=20

Thanks-everything else I agree with=20

From: Healeys [ mailto:[email-masked] ] On Behalf Of Oudesl=
uys=20
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM=20
To: [email-masked]=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel=20

Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and patinated. I w=
ould not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with white spirits on a r=
ough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.=20
Look for remnants of lacquer on the inside of the aluminium. It may have be=
en coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find anyth=
ing.=20

Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint. If=
 that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.=20
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white spi=
rits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is even =
and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material as =
possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush w=
ith PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors) with a=
bout 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Le=
t every coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade =
in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish, =
but others prefer gloss.=20
Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil and=
 leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.=20
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be used=
 as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.=20
It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered Moto-Lita=
 wheel (same manufacturer).=20

I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also us=
ing raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be that i=
n the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.=20

Kees Oudesluijs=20

Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:=20

<blockquote>

I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks=
 of my wooden steering wheel?=C2=A0 The wood is in very good shape. I would=
 like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the m=
etal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?=C2=
=A0 Are these maple?=C2=A0 I know they are not original. I see the original=
 wheels were black plastic.=20

_______________________________________________=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=20
[email-masked]=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys=20
[email-masked]=20

-----=20
Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.=20
Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com=20
Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: 12/31=
/15=20

</blockquote>

<blockquote>

_______________________________________________=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=20

[email-masked]=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys=20

visioncenterpc.com=20

</blockquote>

_______________________________________________=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=20

[email-masked]=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys=20

[email-masked]=20

</blockquote>

_______________________________________________=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=20

[email-masked]=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys=20

@comcast.net=20

------=_Part_15028095_736022506.1451656081766
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div>I believe that boiled linseed oil will also soften the existing fi=
nish to the point that it will pick up dirt and become quite ugly.&nbsp; Ol=
d finishes on furniture were formulated with linseed oil and over the years=
 they got soft, picked up dirt and got ugly.&nbsp; That process would be ac=
celerated with something that in in your hands constantly and would always =
be sticky.</div><div><br>I would suggest using Restore-A-Finish that is eas=
y to use, yet will not take any wood away to expose the rivets more.&nbsp; =
See<br></div><div><a href=3D"http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-fi=
nish.php">http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php</a>.&nbsp;=
 When I did the search for this I saw that Lowe's and Home Depot may carry =
it.&nbsp; I have used it on furniture and also to refinish the hardwood flo=
or in my 60 year old house.&nbsp; It worked great for the floors, but was m=
ore work on the furniture that I worked on because the old finish was harde=
r.&nbsp; The result will be a much harder finish than anything with linseed=
 oil in it, which is what you want on a steering wheel, gear shift knob, or=
 anything being touched often.<br></div><div><br></div><div>As you will see=
 at the website, there are a lot of different 'colors' so you can match wha=
t your steering wheel was originally.<br></div><div><br></div><div>Charlie =
Baldwin<br></div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;f=
ont-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvet=
ica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><b>From: </b>"richard mayor" &lt;boyr=
[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>To: </b>[email-masked]<br><b>Sent: </b>=
Thursday, December 31, 2015 9:35:29 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Healeys] Ref=
inish steering wheel<br><div><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Be careful using ra=
w linseed oil. It never dries. Check out boiled linseed oil.&nbsp; <br></di=
v><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Dec 31,=
 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris Scholz <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:drsc=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&=
gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 =
0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">

<div dir=3D"auto">
<div>I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from there. Th=
anks for the input.&nbsp;<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone
<div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
</div>
<div><br>
On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:douglas.bark=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrot=
e:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>

<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">HELLO<span style=3D"text-=
decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></sp=
an><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decor=
ation: underline;"></span></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">I was just thinking of do=
ing mine also so this is good timing:<span style=3D"text-decoration: underl=
ine;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span><span style=3D"=
text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"=
></span></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">My wheel is I believe aMo=
tta but much lighter wood<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-m=
ce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span><span style=3D"text-decorat=
ion: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></sp=
an></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Please define =E2=80=93Wh=
ite spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?<span style=3D"text-decoration: underli=
ne;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span><span style=3D"t=
ext-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;">=
</span></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Also PU solvent based PU?=
<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decorati=
on: underline;"></span><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce=
-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Thanks-everything else I =
agree with<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"tex=
t-decoration: underline;"></span><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;=
" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d"><span style=3D"text-decor=
ation: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span>&n=
bsp;<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-deco=
ration: underline;"></span></span></p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #b5c4df 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot=
;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:windowtext">From:</span></b><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif=
&quot;;color:windowtext"> Healeys [<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.=
team.net" target=3D"_blank">mailto:[email-masked]</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">heal=
[email-masked]</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel<span style=3D"text-de=
coration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span=
><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decorat=
ion: underline;"></span></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce=
-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span>&nbsp;<span style=3D"text-dec=
oration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span>=
</p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very =
nice and patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it wi=
th white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in=
 some linseed oil.<br>
Look for remnants of lacquer&nbsp; on the inside of the aluminium. It may h=
ave been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find=
 anything.<br>
<br>
<br>
Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint. If=
 that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.<br>
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white spi=
rits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is even =
and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material as =
possible. Remove all the dust carefully.
 Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as u=
sed on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C =
so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few da=
ys and sand lightly with 400 grade
 in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish,=
 but others prefer gloss.<br>
Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil and=
 leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.<br>
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be used=
 as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.<br>
It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered Moto-Lita=
 wheel (same manufacturer).<br>
<br>
I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also us=
ing raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be that i=
n the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
&nbsp;<br>
Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:<span style=3D"text-decoration:=
 underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span><span st=
yle=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: unde=
rline;"></span></p>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the =
looks of my wooden steering wheel?&nbsp; The wood is in very good shape. I =
would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since =
the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they use=
d?&nbsp; Are these maple?&nbsp; I know they are not original. I see the ori=
ginal wheels were black plastic. <span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;=
" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span><span style=3D"text=
-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></s=
pan></pre>
<pre><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-dec=
oration: underline;"></span>&nbsp;<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline=
;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decorati=
on: underline;"></span><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce=
-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></p>
<pre>_______________________________________________<span style=3D"text-dec=
oration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span>=
<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decorati=
on: underline;"></span></pre>
<pre>Support <a href=3D"http://Team.Net" target=3D"_blank">Team.Net</a> <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.=
net/donate.html</a><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-sty=
le=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span><span style=3D"text-decoration: u=
nderline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
<pre>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<span style=3D"text-decoration: =
underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span><span sty=
le=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: under=
line;"></span></pre>
<pre>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://www.team.net/archive</a><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" dat=
a-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span><span style=3D"text-deco=
ration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span><=
/pre>
<pre>Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank">http:=
//www.team.net/forums</a><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-m=
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ion: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></pr=
e>
<pre><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-dec=
oration: underline;"></span>&nbsp;<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline=
;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
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<pre><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-dec=
oration: underline;"></span>&nbsp;<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline=
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<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decorati=
on: underline;"></span><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce=
-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></p>
<pre>-----<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"tex=
t-decoration: underline;"></span><span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;=
" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
<pre>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<span style=3D"text-decoration: und=
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ne;"></span></pre>
<pre>Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a href=3D"http://www.avg.com" target=3D"_bla=
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nderline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
<pre>Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: =
12/31/15<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;" data-mce-style=3D"text-=
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------=_Part_15028095_736022506.1451656081766--

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[email-masked]

--===============8493523838935274131==--

---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2016 15:46:26 +0100

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Several oil products can be used, however I prefer raw linseed oil 
because, if applied properly, it leaves a very tough and durable coat 
that is sweat resistant, only needing a polish up with a few drops of 
raw linseed oil on a cloth once in a while to clean it up. It will not 
pick up dirt or go soft but it will darken the wood eventually.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 1-1-2016 om 14:48 schreef Charlie:
> I believe that boiled linseed oil will also soften the existing finish 
> to the point that it will pick up dirt and become quite ugly.  Old 
> finishes on furniture were formulated with linseed oil and over the 
> years they got soft, picked up dirt and got ugly.  That process would 
> be accelerated with something that in in your hands constantly and 
> would always be sticky.
>
> I would suggest using Restore-A-Finish that is easy to use, yet will 
> not take any wood away to expose the rivets more. See
> http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php. When I did the 
> search for this I saw that Lowe's and Home Depot may carry it.  I have 
> used it on furniture and also to refinish the hardwood floor in my 60 
> year old house.  It worked great for the floors, but was more work on 
> the furniture that I worked on because the old finish was harder. The 
> result will be a much harder finish than anything with linseed oil in 
> it, which is what you want on a steering wheel, gear shift knob, or 
> anything being touched often.
>
> As you will see at the website, there are a lot of different 'colors' 
> so you can match what your steering wheel was originally.
>
> Charlie Baldwin
>
> *From: *"richard mayor" <[email-masked]>
> *To: [email-masked]
> *Sent: *Thursday, December 31, 2015 9:35:29 PM
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel
>
>         *From:*Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] *On
>         Behalf Of *Oudesluys
>         patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning
>         it with white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive
>         sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.
>         Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium.
>         It may have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed
>         oil if you cannot find anything.
>
>
>         acrylic paint. If that is the case this must be completely
>         removed before repainting.
>         Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly
>         with white spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand
>         paper until the colour is even and all lacquer is removed but
>         remove as little wood/aluminium material as possible. Remove
>         all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush with
>         floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the
>         lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry thoroughly for a
>         few days and sand lightly with 400 grade in between the coats.
>         I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish, but
>         others prefer gloss.
>         walnut can be used as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours
>         looks like mahogany ply.
>         battered Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).
>
>         lacquer and also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter
>         method. The drawback may be that in the beginning your hands
>         will smell of linseed oil.
>
>         Kees Oudesluijs
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>
>
> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11299 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 01/01/16
>

--------------070600070102030302030302
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Several oil products can be used,
      however I prefer raw linseed oil because, if applied properly, it
      leaves a very tough and durable coat that is sweat resistant, only
      needing a polish up with a few drops of raw linseed oil on a cloth
      once in a while to clean it up. It will not pick up dirt or go
      soft but it will darken the wood eventually. <br>
      <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 1-1-2016 om 14:48 schreef Charlie:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div>
        <div>I believe that boiled linseed oil will also soften the
          existing finish to the point that it will pick up dirt and
          become quite ugly.  Old finishes on furniture were formulated
          with linseed oil and over the years they got soft, picked up
          dirt and got ugly.  That process would be accelerated with
          something that in in your hands constantly and would always be
          sticky.</div>
        <div><br>
          I would suggest using Restore-A-Finish that is easy to use,
          yet will not take any wood away to expose the rivets more. 
          See<br>
        </div>
        <div><a moz-do-not-send="true"
            href="http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php">http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php</a>. 
          When I did the search for this I saw that Lowe's and Home
          Depot may carry it.  I have used it on furniture and also to
          refinish the hardwood floor in my 60 year old house.  It
          worked great for the floors, but was more work on the
          furniture that I worked on because the old finish was harder. 
          The result will be a much harder finish than anything with
          linseed oil in it, which is what you want on a steering wheel,
          gear shift knob, or anything being touched often.<br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>As you will see at the website, there are a lot of
          different 'colors' so you can match what your steering wheel
          was originally.<br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Charlie Baldwin<br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <hr id="zwchr">
        <div><b>From: </b>"richard mayor" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
          <b>To: </b><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
          <b>Sent: </b>Thursday, December 31, 2015 9:35:29 PM<br>
          <b>Subject: </b>Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel<br>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="ltr">Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never
            dries. Check out boiled linseed oil.  <br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
            <div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM,
              Chris Scholz <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a
                  moz-do-not-send="true"
                  href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                  target="_blank"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></a>&gt;</span>
              wrote:<br>
              <blockquote class="gmail_quote">
                <div dir="auto">
                  <div>I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and
                    take it from there. Thanks for the input. <br>
                    <br>
                    Sent from my iPhone
                    <div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
                  </div>
                  <div><br>
                    On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker &lt;<a
                      moz-do-not-send="true"
                      href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                      target="_blank"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></a>&gt;
                    wrote:<br>
                    <br>
                  </div>
                  <blockquote>
                    <div>
                      <div>
                        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>HELLO<span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>I was just thinking
                            of doing mine also so this is good timing:<span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>My wheel is I believe
                            aMotta but much lighter wood<span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Please define –White
                            spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?<span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Also PU solvent based
                            PU?<span data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks-everything
                            else I agree with<span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class="MsoNormal"><span><span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span> <span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <div>
                          <div>
                            <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><span>
                                Healeys [<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                  href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                                  target="_blank">mailto:[email-masked]</a>]
                                <b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br>
                                <b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015
                                12:43 PM<br>
                                <b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                  href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                                  target="_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
                                <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish
                                steering wheel<span
                                  data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                                  underline;"></span><span
                                  data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                                  underline;"></span></span></p>
                          </div>
                        </div>
                        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                            data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span> <span
                            data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span></p>
                        <div>
                          <p class="MsoNormal">Of what I can see the
                            steering wheel does look very nice and
                            patinated. I would not do anything to it
                            apart from cleaning it with white spirits on
                            a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and
                            rubbing in some linseed oil.<br>
                            Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside
                            of the aluminium. It may have been coated
                            only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if
                            you cannot find anything.<br>
                            <br>
                            <br>
                            Depending on the age of the wheel it could
                            be coated with acrylic paint. If that is the
                            case this must be completely removed before
                            repainting.<br>
                            Start with degreasing the wood very
                            carefully and thoroughly with white spirits.
                            Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper
                            until the colour is even and all lacquer is
                            removed but remove as little wood/aluminium
                            material as possible. Remove all the dust
                            carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush
                            with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used
                            on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5
                            coats or more at well over 20C so the
                            lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry
                            thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly
                            with 400 grade in between the coats. I
                            prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin
                            finish, but others prefer gloss.<br>
                            Another method is applying many very very
                            thin coats of raw linseed oil and leave
                            every coat to dry for at least a week at
                            summer temperatures.<br>
                            Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany
                            is used but walnut can be used as well.
                            Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks
                            like mahogany ply.<br>
                            It is a good idea to try out the process
                            first on an old battered Moto-Lita wheel
                            (same manufacturer).<br>
                            <br>
                            I have done many steering wheels using PU
                            solvent based lacquer and also using raw
                            linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The
                            drawback may be that in the beginning your
                            hands will smell of linseed oil.<br>
                            <br>
                            Kees Oudesluijs<br>
                             <br>
                            Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:<span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></p>
                        </div>
                        <blockquote>
                          <pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were black plastic. <span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span><span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
                          <pre><span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span> <span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
                          <p class="MsoNormal"><br>
                            <br>
                            <br>
                            <span data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></p>
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                          <pre><span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span> <span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
                          <p class="MsoNormal"><br>
                            <br>
                            <br>
                            <span data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span
                              data-mce-style="text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></p>
                          <pre>-----<span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span><span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
                          <pre>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span><span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
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                          <pre>Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: 12/31/15<span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span><span data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
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                        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                            data-mce-style="text-decoration: underline;"></span> <span
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--------------070600070102030302030302--

--===============5287573693480274979==
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[email-masked]

--===============5287573693480274979==--

---

From: Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 02:11:35 +1100

--===============9072809209697475920==
	boundary=Apple-Mail-3576951E-30C6-49C3-A388-03E0C583C49D
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I think the answer is an orange.=20
Because a motorcycle doesn't have doors.=20
Just as relevant.=20
;-)

Sent from my iPhone

> On 1 Jan 2016, at 9:22 PM, Oudesluys <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> Raw linseed oil will dry. I have polished several mahogany tables and chai=
rs using it when I restored antique furniture. A lot of 17th/18th century ma=
hogany furniture was polished using this method, in most cases this was late=
r replaced using French polishing with shellac, being quicker and giving a v=
ery high gloss finish but needed more skill. The trick is to apply a very ve=
ry thin layer rubbing it on using a cloth over several weeks/months. It will=
 give a very nice satin finish.
> If you apply it to thick, it will not dry and it all will end up in a stic=
ky mess that has to be removed before you start again.
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>> Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries. Check out boiled linsee=
d oil. =20
>>=20
>> On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris Scholz <[email-masked]=
m> wrote:
>>> I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from there. Than=
ks for the input.=20
>>>=20
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> Chris Scholz OD
>>>=20
>>> On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker <[email-masked]> w=
rote:
>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>> =20
>>>>=20
>>>> From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Oude=
sluys
>>>> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM
>>>> To: [email-masked]
>>>> =20
>>>>=20
>>>> Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and patinated.=
 I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with white spirits on a=
 rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.
>>>> Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It may ha=
ve been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find a=
nything.
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>> Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint=
. If that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.
>>>> Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white=
 spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is ev=
en and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material a=
s possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush w=
ith PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors) with ab=
out 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let e=
very coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade in b=
etween the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish, but o=
thers prefer gloss.
>>>> Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil=
 and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.
>>>> Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be u=
sed as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.
>>>> It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered Moto-=
Lita wheel (same manufacturer).
>>>>=20
>>>> I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and als=
o using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be tha=
t in the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.
>>>>=20
>>>> =20
>>>>=20
>>>> I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the l=
ooks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would l=
ike to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the meta=
l rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are t=
hese maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were bl=
ack plastic.=20
>>>> =20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>> =20
>>>> =20
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coude=
[email-masked]
>>>> =20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>>>> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: 1=
2/31/15
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drsch=
[email-masked]
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyrac=
[email-masked]
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
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[email-masked]
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11296 - datum van uitgifte: 12/=
31/15
>>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.h=
[email-masked]
>=20

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	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>I think the answer is an orange.&nbsp;=
</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Because a motorcycle doesn't have doors=
.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Just as relevant.&nbsp;</div><di=
v id=3D"AppleMailSignature">;-)<br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On 1=
 Jan 2016, at 9:22 PM, Oudesluys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite=
"><div>
 =20
    <meta content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3D"Content-Type"=
 =20
 =20
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">Raw linseed oil will dry. I have
      polished several mahogany tables and chairs using it when I
      restored antique furniture. A lot of 17th/18th century mahogany
      furniture was polished using this method, in most cases this was
      later replaced using French polishing with shellac, being quicker
      and giving a very high gloss finish but needed more skill. The
      trick is to apply a very very thin layer rubbing it on using a
      cloth over several weeks/months. It will give a very nice satin
      finish.<br>
      If you apply it to thick, it will not dry and it all will end up
      in a sticky mess that has to be removed before you start again.<br>
      To let it dry out quicker one could use a small bit of siccative.<br>
      <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 1-1-2016 om 3:35 schreef richard mayor:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite=3D"mid:CAKkXjqPNHmvtim92ccsVfRUC1T-WwgvcCKtdSPs8A9kGS-9=
[email-masked]" type=3D"cite">
      <meta http-equiv=3D"Context-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-=
8">
      <div dir=3D"ltr">Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries.
        Check out boiled linseed oil.&nbsp; <br>
      </div>
      <div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br>
        <div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris
          Scholz <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a moz-do-not-send=3D"true" href=3D"m=
ailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">drscholz@visioncenterpc=
.com</a>&gt;</span>
          wrote:<br>
          <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote">
            <div dir=3D"auto">
              <div>I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take
                it from there. Thanks for the input.&nbsp;<br>
                <br>
                Sent from my iPhone
                <div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
              </div>
              <div><br>
                On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker &lt;<a moz-do-not-s=
end=3D"true" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank"><=
/a><a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:douglas.barker@video=
tron.ca">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                wrote:<br>
                <br>
              </div>
              <blockquote type=3D"cite">
                <div>
                  <div>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>HELLO</span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>I was just thinking of
                        doing mine also so this is good timing:</span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>My wheel is I believe
                        aMotta but much lighter wood</span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Please define =E2=80=93Whit=
e
                        spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?</span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Also PU solvent based PU?</=
span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Thanks-everything else I
                        agree with</span></p>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
                    <div>
                      <div>
                        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><spa=
n>
                            Healeys [<a moz-do-not-send=3D"true" href=3D"mai=
lto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">mailto:healeys-bounces=
@autox.team.net</a>]
                            <b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br>
                            <b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015
                            12:43 PM<br>
                            <b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send=3D"true" href=3D"m=
ailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><b=
r>
                            <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish
                            steering wheel</span></p>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                    <p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>
                    <div>
                      <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Of what I can see the
                        steering wheel does look very nice and
                        patinated. I would not do anything to it apart
                        from cleaning it with white spirits on a rough
                        cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in
                        some linseed oil.<br>
                        Look for remnants of lacquer&nbsp; on the inside of
                        the aluminium. It may have been coated only with
                        a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot
                        find anything.<br>
                        <br>
                        <br>
                        Depending on the age of the wheel it could be
                        coated with acrylic paint. If that is the case
                        this must be completely removed before
                        repainting.<br>
                        Start with degreasing the wood very carefully
                        and thoroughly with white spirits. Sand very
                        lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the
                        colour is even and all lacquer is removed but
                        remove as little wood/aluminium material as
                        possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint
                        using a soft round brush with PU solvent based
                        clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors)
                        with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so
                        the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry
                        thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with
                        400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat
                        wooden wheels using a satin finish, but others
                        prefer gloss.<br>
                        Another method is applying many very very thin
                        coats of raw linseed oil and leave every coat to
                        dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.<br>
                        Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is
                        used but walnut can be used as well. Lighter
                        woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany
                        ply.<br>
                        It is a good idea to try out the process first
                        on an old battered Moto-Lita wheel (same
                        manufacturer).<br>
                        <br>
                        I have done many steering wheels using PU
                        solvent based lacquer and also using raw linseed
                        oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback
                        may be that in the beginning your hands will
                        smell of linseed oil.<br>
                        <br>
                        Kees Oudesluijs<br>
                        &nbsp;<br>
                        Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:</p>
                    </div>
                    <blockquote>
                      <pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas o=
n how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?&nbsp; The wood is in=
 very good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to star=
t sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kin=
d of wood they used?&nbsp; Are these maple?&nbsp; I know they are not origin=
al. I see the original wheels were black plastic. </pre>
                      <pre>&nbsp;</pre>
                      <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
                        <br>
                        <br>
                      </p>
                      <pre>_______________________________________________</=
pre>
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                      <pre>-----</pre>
                      <pre>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.</pre>
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team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.ne=
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</pre>
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[email-masked]

--===============9072809209697475920==--

---

From: Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 02:26:40 +1100

--===============0328828451435698038==
	boundary=Apple-Mail-E9F6CAC7-B828-401C-810A-BFBF33EF8CF0
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Furniture and steering wheels are slightly different.=20
Well, from my perspective anyway.=20
My dining table. My sideboard? 1890's.=20
We use them all the time. That's family.=20
Steering wheel? That's just me. Not even half the age, and in the sun!
So different.=20
Yeah, chairs are closer to Healey age.=20
But wood always gets respected based on age and use.=20
Photos? Just now.=20
Haven't put everything away because it's Orthodox Christmas in 6 days. I get=
 2 Christmases now.=20

Sent from my iPhone

> On 2 Jan 2016, at 1:46 AM, Oudesluys <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> Several oil products can be used, however I prefer raw linseed oil because=
, if applied properly, it leaves a very tough and durable coat that is sweat=
 resistant, only needing a polish up with a few drops of raw linseed oil on a=
 cloth once in a while to clean it up. It will not pick up dirt or go soft b=
ut it will darken the wood eventually.=20
>> I believe that boiled linseed oil will also soften the existing finish to=
 the point that it will pick up dirt and become quite ugly.  Old finishes on=
 furniture were formulated with linseed oil and over the years they got soft=
, picked up dirt and got ugly.  That process would be accelerated with somet=
hing that in in your hands constantly and would always be sticky.
>>=20
>> I would suggest using Restore-A-Finish that is easy to use, yet will not t=
ake any wood away to expose the rivets more.  See
>> http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php.  When I did the s=
earch for this I saw that Lowe's and Home Depot may carry it.  I have used i=
t on furniture and also to refinish the hardwood floor in my 60 year old hou=
se.  It worked great for the floors, but was more work on the furniture that=
 I worked on because the old finish was harder.  The result will be a much h=
arder finish than anything with linseed oil in it, which is what you want on=
 a steering wheel, gear shift knob, or anything being touched often.
>>=20
>> As you will see at the website, there are a lot of different 'colors' so y=
ou can match what your steering wheel was originally.
>>=20
>> Charlie Baldwin
>>=20
>> From: "richard mayor" <[email-masked]>
>> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 9:35:29 PM
d oil. =20
ks for the input.=20
rote:
>>> From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Oudes=
luys
>>> Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and patinated. I=
 would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with white spirits on a r=
ough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.
>>> Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It may hav=
e been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find an=
ything.
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint.=
 If that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.
>>> Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white s=
pirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is even=
 and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material as p=
ossible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush wit=
h PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors) with abou=
t 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let ev=
ery coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade in be=
tween the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish, but ot=
hers prefer gloss.
>>> Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil a=
nd leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.
>>> It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered Moto-L=
ita wheel (same manufacturer).
>>>=20
>>> I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also=
 using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be that=
 in the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.
>>> I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the lo=
oks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would li=
ke to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal=
 rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are th=
ese maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were bla=
ck plastic.=20
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudes=
[email-masked]
>>> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: 12=
/31/15
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drscho=
[email-masked]
[email-masked]
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharl=
[email-masked]
[email-masked]
>> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11299 - datum van uitgifte: 01/=
01/16
[email-masked]

--Apple-Mail-E9F6CAC7-B828-401C-810A-BFBF33EF8CF0
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--Apple-Mail-4E48FE6E-13B1-458F-B3E9-81CD1A41AF59
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Furniture and steering wheels are slig=
htly different.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Well, from my pers=
pective anyway.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">My dining table. M=
y sideboard? 1890's.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">We use them a=
ll the time. That's family.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Steeri=
ng wheel? That's just me. Not even half the age, and in the sun!</div><div i=
d=3D"AppleMailSignature">So different.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignat=
ure">Yeah, chairs are closer to Healey age.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailS=
ignature">But wood always gets respected based on age and use.&nbsp;</div><d=
iv id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Photos? Just now.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMa=
ilSignature">Haven't put everything away because it's Orthodox Christmas in 6=
 days. I get 2 Christmases now.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><b=
r></div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><img src=3D"cid:DD7CDF55-4B56-4510-B8=
1D-1E6374D5A973" alt=3D"image1.JPG" id=3D"DD7CDF55-4B56-4510-B81D-1E6374D5A9=
73"><br><br><img src=3D"cid:4D9322ED-F257-4AB8-A3ED-CE702DFDAEDE" alt=3D"ima=
ge2.JPG" id=3D"4D9322ED-F257-4AB8-A3ED-CE702DFDAEDE"><br>Sent from my iPhone=
</div><div><br>On 2 Jan 2016, at 1:46 AM, Oudesluys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:co=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><bloc=
kquote type=3D"cite"><div>
 =20
    <meta content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3D"Content-Type"=
 =20
 =20
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">Several oil products can be used,
      however I prefer raw linseed oil because, if applied properly, it
      leaves a very tough and durable coat that is sweat resistant, only
      needing a polish up with a few drops of raw linseed oil on a cloth
      once in a while to clean it up. It will not pick up dirt or go
      soft but it will darken the wood eventually. <br>
      <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 1-1-2016 om 14:48 schreef Charlie:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite=3D"mid:824451622.15028096.1451656081768.JavaMail.zimbra=
@comcast.net" type=3D"cite">
      <meta http-equiv=3D"Context-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-=
8">
      <div>
        <div>I believe that boiled linseed oil will also soften the
          existing finish to the point that it will pick up dirt and
          become quite ugly.&nbsp; Old finishes on furniture were formulated=

          with linseed oil and over the years they got soft, picked up
          dirt and got ugly.&nbsp; That process would be accelerated with
          something that in in your hands constantly and would always be
          sticky.</div>
        <div><br>
          I would suggest using Restore-A-Finish that is easy to use,
          yet will not take any wood away to expose the rivets more.&nbsp;
          See<br>
        </div>
        <div><a moz-do-not-send=3D"true" href=3D"http://www.howardproducts.c=
om/prod-restor-a-finish.php">http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-fin=
ish.php</a>.&nbsp;
          When I did the search for this I saw that Lowe's and Home
          Depot may carry it.&nbsp; I have used it on furniture and also to
          refinish the hardwood floor in my 60 year old house.&nbsp; It
          worked great for the floors, but was more work on the
          furniture that I worked on because the old finish was harder.&nbsp=
;
          The result will be a much harder finish than anything with
          linseed oil in it, which is what you want on a steering wheel,
          gear shift knob, or anything being touched often.<br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>As you will see at the website, there are a lot of
          different 'colors' so you can match what your steering wheel
          was originally.<br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Charlie Baldwin<br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <hr id=3D"zwchr">
        <div><b>From: </b>"richard mayor" <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>=

          <b>To: </b><a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:he=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
          <b>Sent: </b>Thursday, December 31, 2015 9:35:29 PM<br>
          <b>Subject: </b>Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel<br>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div dir=3D"ltr">Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never
            dries. Check out boiled linseed oil.&nbsp; <br>
          </div>
          <div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br>
            <div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM,
              Chris Scholz <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a moz-do-not-send=3D"true"=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank"></a><a class=3D=
"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">drsch=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span>
              wrote:<br>
              <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote">
                <div dir=3D"auto">
                  <div>I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and
                    take it from there. Thanks for the input.&nbsp;<br>
                    <br>
                    Sent from my iPhone
                    <div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
                  </div>
                  <div><br>
                    On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker &lt;<a moz-do-n=
ot-send=3D"true" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blan=
k"></a><a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:douglas.barker@v=
ideotron.ca">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                    wrote:<br>
                    <br>
                  </div>
                  <blockquote>
                    <div>
                      <div>
                        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>HELLO<span data-mce-sty=
le=3D"text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"tex=
t-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>I was just thinking
                            of doing mine also so this is good timing:<span d=
ata-mce-style=3D"text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"tex=
t-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>My wheel is I believe
                            aMotta but much lighter wood<span data-mce-style=
=3D"text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"tex=
t-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Please define =E2=80=93=
White
                            spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?<span data-mce-s=
tyle=3D"text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"tex=
t-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Also PU solvent based
                            PU?<span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"tex=
t-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Thanks-everything
                            else I agree with<span data-mce-style=3D"text-de=
coration:
                              underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"tex=
t-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><span data-mce-style=3D=
"text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span>&nbsp;<span data-mce-style=3D=
"text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></span></p>
                        <div>
                          <div>
                            <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b>=
<span>
                                Healeys [<a moz-do-not-send=3D"true" href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">mailto:healeys-bou=
[email-masked]</a>]
                                <b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br>
                                <b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015
                                12:43 PM<br>
                                <b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send=3D"true" href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>=
<br>
                                <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish
                                steering wheel<span data-mce-style=3D"text-d=
ecoration:
                                  underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D=
"text-decoration:
                                  underline;"></span></span></p>
                          </div>
                        </div>
                        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span data-mce-style=3D"text-=
decoration: underline;"></span>&nbsp;<span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration=
: underline;"></span></p>
                        <div>
                          <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Of what I can see the
                            steering wheel does look very nice and
                            patinated. I would not do anything to it
                            apart from cleaning it with white spirits on
                            a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and
                            rubbing in some linseed oil.<br>
                            Look for remnants of lacquer&nbsp; on the inside=

                            of the aluminium. It may have been coated
                            only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if
                            you cannot find anything.<br>
                            <br>
                            <br>
                            Depending on the age of the wheel it could
                            be coated with acrylic paint. If that is the
                            case this must be completely removed before
                            repainting.<br>
                            Start with degreasing the wood very
                            carefully and thoroughly with white spirits.
                            Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper
                            until the colour is even and all lacquer is
                            removed but remove as little wood/aluminium
                            material as possible. Remove all the dust
                            carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush
                            with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used
                            on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5
                            coats or more at well over 20C so the
                            lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry
                            thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly
                            with 400 grade in between the coats. I
                            prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin
                            finish, but others prefer gloss.<br>
                            Another method is applying many very very
                            thin coats of raw linseed oil and leave
                            every coat to dry for at least a week at
                            summer temperatures.<br>
                            Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany
                            is used but walnut can be used as well.
                            Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks
                            like mahogany ply.<br>
                            It is a good idea to try out the process
                            first on an old battered Moto-Lita wheel
                            (same manufacturer).<br>
                            <br>
                            I have done many steering wheels using PU
                            solvent based lacquer and also using raw
                            linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The
                            drawback may be that in the beginning your
                            hands will smell of linseed oil.<br>
                            <br>
                            Kees Oudesluijs<br>
                            &nbsp;<br>
                            Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:<spa=
n data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"tex=
t-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></p>
                        </div>
                        <blockquote>
                          <pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ide=
as on how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?&nbsp; The wood i=
s in very good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to s=
tart sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what k=
ind of wood they used?&nbsp; Are these maple?&nbsp; I know they are not orig=
inal. I see the original wheels were black plastic. <span data-mce-style=3D"=
text-decoration: underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration:=
 underline;"></span></pre>
                          <pre><span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: unde=
rline;"></span>&nbsp;<span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></=
span></pre>
                          <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
                            <br>
                            <br>
                            <span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"tex=
t-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></p>
                          <pre>_____________________________________________=
__<span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span><span data-mce=
-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
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                          <pre><span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: unde=
rline;"></span>&nbsp;<span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></=
span></pre>
                          <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
                            <br>
                            <br>
                            <span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration:
                              underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"tex=
t-decoration:
                              underline;"></span></p>
                          <pre>-----<span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration:=
 underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></s=
pan></pre>
                          <pre>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<span data=
-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"></span><span data-mce-style=3D"te=
xt-decoration: underline;"></span></pre>
                          <pre>Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send=3D=
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                          <pre>Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/112=
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[email-masked]

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---

From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 10:05:17 +1100

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--===============3906183878049819384==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0063_01D14545.171FE040"
Content-Language: en-au

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------=_NextPart_000_0063_01D14545.171FE040
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello

=20

I must admit that this question has caused me to raise my eyebrows a =
number of times, especially when it was suggested to use raw linseed =
oil.

=20

Let me run through the timber preservation that I undertake.

=20

Our home is a 110 year old farm house that=E2=80=99s made entirely of =
timber with a corrugated iron roof. Not old compared with European =
examples, but old for Australia. About every five to six years the =
timber is cleaned, repaired where necessary and repainted. Inside our =
home is a mix of timber (floors, walls and ceiling in the original) and =
gypsum wall cladding in the newer. This timber of treated in the same =
way, unless there is a desire to change colours.

=20

The timber furniture inside the house is mostly French polished and =
after cleaning is polished with a beeswax and lavender polish. Other =
timber in the house, like the kitchen is coated with a polyurethane =
clear finish (modern plastic finish). This is also rubbed back every =
five to six years and recoated.=20

=20

The garden is extensive and is shown regularly as part of Open Gardens =
Australia. In it there are quite a number of decorative and functional =
structures made of cast iron, welded steel, stone and timber. Some of =
the timber structures are made from treated pine, are mostly painted and =
repainted every couple of years. The other timber structures are made =
from various hardwoods and are not painted, but every six months each is =
liberally coated with a mix of raw linseed oil and mineral turpentine. =
By adding the mineral turpentine makes the linseed oil easily penetrate =
the timber. In my experience raw linseed by itself will not soak into =
timber completely, leaving an oily residue.

=20

Two cars have timber or wooden steering wheels. One is in good condition =
and I would say is coated with some form of polyurethane clear coating. =
This is cleaned by wiping over with a chamois every time the car is =
cleaned. Polyurethane is a modern plastic coating and to treat this with =
any form of oil based polish/cleaner would be a waste of time as it will =
not go through the plastic to the timber.

=20

The finish of the second steering wheel was in poor condition when it =
arrived to me. It probably dates from the late 1950s and I would say =
that it was finished with a form of varnish. I have since repaired it by =
scraping the timber back as best I could, sanding very gently to remove =
the remainder and then recoating with a modern polyurethane UV stable =
finish. While the finish might not be as good as a new wheel I am more =
than happy with it.

=20

While I think the aroma of linseed oil is almost as good as burnt castor =
oil I would never use linseed oil on a steering wheel.

=20

Hoo Roo

=20

Patrick Quinn

=20

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of =
Oudesluys
Sent: Saturday, 2 January 2016 1:46 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel

=20

Several oil products can be used, however I prefer raw linseed oil =
because, if applied properly, it leaves a very tough and durable coat =
that is sweat resistant, only needing a polish up with a few drops of =
raw linseed oil on a cloth once in a while to clean it up. It will not =
pick up dirt or go soft but it will darken the wood eventually.=20

Kees Oudesluijs

I believe that boiled linseed oil will also soften the existing finish =
to the point that it will pick up dirt and become quite ugly.  Old =
finishes on furniture were formulated with linseed oil and over the =
years they got soft, picked up dirt and got ugly.  That process would be =
accelerated with something that in in your hands constantly and would =
always be sticky.

I would suggest using Restore-A-Finish that is easy to use, yet will not =
take any wood away to expose the rivets more.  See

http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php.  When I did the =
search for this I saw that Lowe's and Home Depot may carry it.  I have =
used it on furniture and also to refinish the hardwood floor in my 60 =
year old house.  It worked great for the floors, but was more work on =
the furniture that I worked on because the old finish was harder.  The =
result will be a much harder finish than anything with linseed oil in =
it, which is what you want on a steering wheel, gear shift knob, or =
anything being touched often.

=20

As you will see at the website, there are a lot of different 'colors' so =
you can match what your steering wheel was originally.

=20

Charlie Baldwin

=20

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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=3Dwhite =
lang=3DEN-AU link=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Hello<o:p></o:p></span></p><p=
 class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>I =
must admit that this question has caused me to raise my eyebrows a =
number of times, especially when it was suggested to use raw linseed =
oil.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Let me run through the =
timber preservation that I undertake.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Our home is a 110 year old =
farm house that=E2=80=99s made entirely of timber with a corrugated iron =
roof. Not old compared with European examples, but old for Australia. =
About every five to six years the timber is cleaned, repaired where =
necessary and repainted. Inside our home is a mix of timber (floors, =
walls and ceiling in the original) and gypsum wall cladding in the =
newer. This timber of treated in the same way, unless there is a desire =
to change colours.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>The timber furniture inside =
the house is mostly French polished and after cleaning is polished with =
a beeswax and lavender polish. Other timber in the house, like the =
kitchen is coated with a polyurethane clear finish (modern plastic =
finish). This is also rubbed back every five to six years and recoated. =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>The garden is extensive and =
is shown regularly as part of Open Gardens Australia. In it there are =
quite a number of decorative and functional structures made of cast =
iron, welded steel, stone and timber. Some of the timber structures are =
made from treated pine, are mostly painted and repainted every couple of =
years. The other timber structures are made from various hardwoods and =
are not painted, but every six months each is liberally coated with a =
mix of raw linseed oil and mineral turpentine. By adding the mineral =
turpentine makes the linseed oil easily penetrate the timber. In my =
experience raw linseed by itself will not soak into timber completely, =
leaving an oily residue.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Two cars have timber or =
wooden steering wheels. One is in good condition and I would say is =
coated with some form of polyurethane clear coating. This is cleaned by =
wiping over with a chamois every time the car is cleaned. Polyurethane =
is a modern plastic coating and to treat this with any form of oil based =
polish/cleaner would be a waste of time as it will not go through the =
plastic to the timber.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>The finish of the second =
steering wheel was in poor condition when it arrived to me. It probably =
dates from the late 1950s and I would say that it was finished with a =
form of varnish. I have since repaired it by scraping the timber back as =
best I could, sanding very gently to remove the remainder and then =
recoating with a modern polyurethane UV stable finish. While the finish =
might not be as good as a new wheel I am more than happy with =
it.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>While I think the aroma of =
linseed oil is almost as good as burnt castor oil I would never use =
linseed oil on a steering wheel.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Hoo =
Roo<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'>Patrick =
Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'> Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Oudesluys<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 2 January 2016 1:46 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] =
Refinish steering wheel<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Several =
oil products can be used, however I prefer raw linseed oil because, if =
applied properly, it leaves a very tough and durable coat that is sweat =
resistant, only needing a polish up with a few drops of raw linseed oil =
on a cloth once in a while to clean it up. It will not pick up dirt or =
go soft but it will darken the wood eventually. <br><br>Kees =
Oudesluijs<br><br><br><br>Op 1-1-2016 om 14:48 schreef =
Charlie:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I believe that boiled linseed oil will also soften the =
existing finish to the point that it will pick up dirt and become quite =
ugly.&nbsp; Old finishes on furniture were formulated with linseed oil =
and over the years they got soft, picked up dirt and got ugly.&nbsp; =
That process would be accelerated with something that in in your hands =
constantly and would always be sticky.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br>I would suggest using Restore-A-Finish that is =
easy to use, yet will not take any wood away to expose the rivets =
more.&nbsp; See<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><a =
href=3D"http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php">http://ww=
w.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php</a>.&nbsp; When I did the =
search for this I saw that Lowe's and Home Depot may carry it.&nbsp; I =
have used it on furniture and also to refinish the hardwood floor in my =
60 year old house.&nbsp; It worked great for the floors, but was more =
work on the furniture that I worked on because the old finish was =
harder.&nbsp; The result will be a much harder finish than anything with =
linseed oil in it, which is what you want on a steering wheel, gear =
shift knob, or anything being touched often.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>As you will see at the website, there are a lot of =
different 'colors' so you can match what your steering wheel was =
originally.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Charlie Baldwin<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div></blockquote></div></b=
ody></html>
------=_NextPart_000_0063_01D14545.171FE040--

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[email-masked]

--===============3906183878049819384==--