Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel

From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2016 15:28:09 -0500

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While I was once a regular reader and participant in this email list, I =
rarely have the time anymore to read the digests I receive. I do =
sometime scan through the subject before filing the digest email. I just =
happened to do that and noticed the discussion about steering wheel =
refinishing.=20

There is much I can write and when I do I typically transgress into all =
kinds of related trivia, but I will try to avoid that.  But first some =
comments about the original poster=E2=80=99s wheel. It is indeed a =
Derrington type, but it is very difficult to know whether it came from =
Derrington or from another of a few makers. Moto-Lita was certainly one =
of the makers and they did sell wheels as Derringtons. I can usually =
tell a Moto-Lita by the workmanship if not the quality of the ply =
laminate. A rivet poorly aligned with a spoke is an indication of =
Moto-Lita.  In this case it is something else that I find unusual. =
Notice how the nine mounting holes are misaligned with the spokes. That =
was either a very poorly done job from new or it was a wheel sold =
without holes which allowed the owner to drill and maybe misalign =
intentionally... or accidentally.  More can be read about Derrington in =
my blog here, although the information is not exhaustive: =
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor =20

Refinishing or restoring these type rims is difficult due to the time =
and exposure effects and also the limitations of the wood grain in spots =
as explained in my blog. It is always a judgment call whether to restore =
or replace the rim. I have recently completed one rare Victor Derrington =
for a Healey and am working on another for a Jag XK. The Healey rim was =
worth saving because it was in relatively good shape, but the Jag had to =
be replaced mostly due to bad work performed earlier.  The old wood, =
mahogany and obeche, especially the obeche colors gets muddled over time =
and no longer displays the original contrasting colors, but can still =
look nice as an obviously old and original rim.

I do not use chemicals for stripping rims, I use a very sharp razor as a =
scraping tool, being careful to scrape in the angle of the grain not to =
damage =E2=80=93 you can feel it, but laminates will have grain going in =
multiple directions, so care is needed.  Only after fully removing the =
finish will I do any amount of sanding, and never so much as to remove =
much wood. I do most of the sanding by spinning the wheel on a lathe, =
but obviously not the rear where the grips appear. In this case with the =
Healey version, we went through more heroic efforts to save the wood. It =
was scrubbed with a toothbrush using ammonia and then bleach two times. =
Still, the colors were muddled, but better. After neutralizing the =
cleaners and sanding again just to smooth any raised grain, it was given =
the new finish. I have read that the original finishing was french =
polish, or at least at some point in time (Derrington, not necessarily =
Moto-Lita).  While you can select whatever method you are comfortable or =
desire, I use a UV cure clear finish. Over the years I=E2=80=99ve used a =
number of finishes, but for the amount of work I do now I have moved to =
this UV system which I find to be excellent in every way. I would also =
recommend Waterlox at least for a sealer if not topcoat also. It is a =
wipe on tung and resin mix. I have also used General Finishes water =
based (only after the Waterlox seal) Enduro-Var gloss. It can only be =
applied after the sealer has dried fully. It typically took five coats =
with sanding in between. It dries quickly and feels great when done. I =
always polished the rim on the lathe after finishing to smooth out =
perfectly and give the desired amount of shine/sheen.=20

This is the Victor Derrinton after all was done (UV cure), but prior to =
the metal being cleaned and final polishing:  =
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley

Happy New Year

Mike Lempert
Lempert Wheels
=E2=80=9856 BN2
=E2=80=9859 BN7
=E2=80=9860 Bugeye

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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>While I was once a regular reader and participant in this email =
list, I=20
rarely have the time anymore to read the digests I receive. I do =
sometime scan=20
through the subject before filing the digest email. I just happened to =
do that=20
and noticed the discussion about steering wheel refinishing. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>There is much I can write and when I do I typically transgress into =
all=20
kinds of related trivia, but I will try to avoid that.&nbsp; But first =
some=20
comments about the original poster=E2=80=99s wheel. It is indeed a =
Derrington type, but=20
it is very difficult to know whether it came from Derrington or from =
another of=20
a few makers. Moto-Lita was certainly one of the makers and they did =
sell wheels=20
as Derringtons. I can usually tell a Moto-Lita by the workmanship if not =
the=20
quality of the ply laminate. A rivet poorly aligned with a spoke is an=20
indication of Moto-Lita.&nbsp; In this case it is something else that I =
find=20
unusual. Notice how the nine mounting holes are misaligned with the =
spokes. That=20
was either a very poorly done job from new or it was a wheel sold =
without holes=20
which allowed the owner to drill and maybe misalign intentionally... or=20
accidentally.&nbsp; More can be read about Derrington in my blog here, =
although=20
the information is not exhaustive: <A=20
title=3Dhttp://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor=20
href=3D"http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor">http://www.pbase.com/mdlem=
pert/victor</A>&nbsp;=20
</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Refinishing or restoring these type rims is difficult due to the =
time and=20
exposure effects and also the limitations of the wood grain in spots as=20
explained in my blog. It is always a judgment call whether to restore or =
replace=20
the rim. I have recently completed one rare Victor Derrington for a =
Healey and=20
am working on another for a Jag XK. The Healey rim was worth saving =
because it=20
was in relatively good shape, but the Jag had to be replaced mostly due =
to bad=20
work performed earlier.&nbsp; The old wood, mahogany and obeche, =
especially the=20
obeche colors gets muddled over time and no longer displays the original =

contrasting colors, but can still look nice as an obviously old and =
original=20
rim.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I do not use chemicals for stripping rims, I use a very sharp razor =
as a=20
scraping tool, being careful to scrape in the angle of the grain not to =
damage =E2=80=93=20
you can feel it, but laminates will have grain going in multiple =
directions, so=20
care is needed.&nbsp; Only after fully removing the finish will I do any =
amount=20
of sanding, and never so much as to remove much wood. I do most of the =
sanding=20
by spinning the wheel on a lathe, but obviously not the rear where the =
grips=20
appear. In this case with the Healey version, we went through more =
heroic=20
efforts to save the wood. It was scrubbed with a toothbrush using =
ammonia and=20
then bleach two times. Still, the colors were muddled, but better. After =

neutralizing the cleaners and sanding again just to smooth any raised =
grain, it=20
was given the new finish. I have read that the original finishing was =
french=20
polish, or at least at some point in time (Derrington, not necessarily=20
Moto-Lita).&nbsp; While you can select whatever method you are =
comfortable or=20
desire, I use a UV cure clear finish. Over the years I=E2=80=99ve used a =
number of=20
finishes, but for the amount of work I do now I have moved to this UV =
system=20
which I find to be excellent in every way. I would also recommend =
Waterlox at=20
least for a sealer if not topcoat also. It is a wipe on tung and resin =
mix. I=20
have also used General Finishes water based (only after the Waterlox =
seal)=20
Enduro-Var gloss. It can only be applied after the sealer has dried =
fully. It=20
typically took five coats with sanding in between. It dries quickly and =
feels=20
great when done. I always polished the rim on the lathe after finishing =
to=20
smooth out perfectly and give the desired amount of shine/sheen. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>This is the Victor Derrinton after all was done (UV cure), but =
prior to the=20
metal being cleaned and final polishing:&nbsp; <A=20
title=3Dhttp://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley=20
href=3D"http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley">http://www.pbase.com/mdle=
mpert/smalley</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Happy New Year</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Mike Lempert</DIV>
<DIV>Lempert Wheels</DIV>
<DIV>=E2=80=9856 BN2</DIV>
<DIV>=E2=80=9859 BN7</DIV>
<DIV>=E2=80=9860 Bugeye</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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