Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight

From: Richard Kahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2016 16:39:32 -0800

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The split washer damage the mounting surfaces. Try nulock washers. They sta=
y tight. I have not had a problem in 3 years since I installed them on the =
rear shocks. There are two washer that kind of ratchet together but can sti=
ll be removed when needed. They have a great video on their web sight. They=
 are readily available at fastener shops.
Rich Kahn=20
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sun=2C 3 Jan 2016 16:08:52 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight

Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.  They work l=
oose every 1=2C500 to 2=2C000 miles=2C and tightening them is routine with =
my annual maintenance.  I currently have grade 8 bolts=2C nuts and split wa=
shers.  Grade 5 bolts=2C nuts=2C and split washers were no worse (or better=
) than the grade 8.  Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone post=
ed about them on this list.  They loosened more quickly than split washers.=
  Tried thread locker and nylocks as well=2C neither of which were better t=
han split washers.   Anyone have a method that actually keeps the hardware =
tight? Bruce SteeleBrea=2C CA1960 BN7=20
_______________________________________________=0A=
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=0A=
=0A=
[email-masked]=0A=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys=0A=
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[email-masked] 		 	   		  =

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<body class=3D'hmmessage'><div dir=3D'ltr'><br>The split washer damage the =
mounting surfaces. Try nulock washers. They stay tight. I have not had a pr=
oblem in 3 years since I installed them on the rear shocks. There are two w=
asher that kind of ratchet together but can still be removed when needed. T=
hey have a great video on their web sight. They are readily available at fa=
stener shops.<br>Rich Kahn <br><div><hr id=3D"stopSpelling">From: healeybru=
[email-masked]<br>To: [email-masked]<br>Date: Sun=2C 3 Jan 2016 =
16:08:52 -0800<br>Subject: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight<br><br>=
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--></style><div class=3D"ecxWordSection1"><p class=3D"ecxMsoNormal"><span s=
tyle=3D"font-size:12.0pt=3Bfont-family:&quot=3BTrebuchet MS&quot=3B=2Csans-=
serif=3B">Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.&nb=
sp=3B They work loose every 1=2C500 to 2=2C000 miles=2C and tightening them=
 is routine with my annual maintenance.&nbsp=3B I currently have grade 8 bo=
lts=2C nuts and split washers.&nbsp=3B Grade 5 bolts=2C nuts=2C and split w=
ashers were no worse (or better) than the grade 8.&nbsp=3B Tried Nord-Lock =
washers 2 years ago after someone posted about them on this list.&nbsp=3B T=
hey loosened more quickly than split washers.&nbsp=3B Tried thread locker a=
nd nylocks as well=2C neither of which were better than split washers.&nbsp=
=3B </span></p><p class=3D"ecxMsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt=3B=
font-family:&quot=3BTrebuchet MS&quot=3B=2Csans-serif=3B">&nbsp=3B</span></=
p><p class=3D"ecxMsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt=3Bfont-family:&=
quot=3BTrebuchet MS&quot=3B=2Csans-serif=3B">Anyone have a method that actu=
ally keeps the hardware tight?</span></p><p class=3D"ecxMsoNormal"><span st=
yle=3D"font-size:12.0pt=3Bfont-family:&quot=3BTrebuchet MS&quot=3B=2Csans-s=
erif=3B">&nbsp=3B</span></p><p class=3D"ecxMsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-s=
ize:12.0pt=3Bfont-family:&quot=3BTrebuchet MS&quot=3B=2Csans-serif=3Bcolor:=
#1F497D=3B">Bruce Steele</span></p><p class=3D"ecxMsoNormal"><span style=3D=
"font-size:12.0pt=3Bfont-family:&quot=3BTrebuchet MS&quot=3B=2Csans-serif=
=3Bcolor:#1F497D=3B">Brea=2C CA</span></p><p class=3D"ecxMsoNormal"><span s=
tyle=3D"font-size:12.0pt=3Bfont-family:&quot=3BTrebuchet MS&quot=3B=2Csans-=
serif=3Bcolor:#1F497D=3B">1960 BN7</span></p><p class=3D"ecxMsoNormal">&nbs=
p=3B</p></div><br>_______________________________________________=0A=
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=0A=
=0A=
[email-masked]=0A=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys=0A=
=0A=
[email-masked]</div> 		 	   		  </div></body>
</html>=

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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2016 19:04:45 -0800

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I've had best results putting a grade 8 flatwasher under the (grade 8) 
bolt head (against the shock 'ear'), with a grade 8 splitwasher under 
the (grade 8) nut on the backside.  This is one location where 
threadlocker doesn't seem to work better than lockwashers.   And, torque 
the snot out of the bolts.  If the holes in the shocks are oblonged it 
gets even more problematic.

Bob

On 1/3/2016 4:39 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>
> The split washer damage the mounting surfaces. Try nulock washers. 
> They stay tight. I have not had a problem in 3 years since I installed 
> them on the rear shocks. There are two washer that kind of ratchet 
> together but can still be removed when needed. They have a great video 
> on their web sight. They are readily available at fastener shops.
> Rich Kahn
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2016 16:08:52 -0800
> Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.  They 
> work loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine 
> with my annual maintenance.  I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and 
> split washers.  Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse 
> (or better) than the grade 8.  Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago 
> after someone posted about them on this list.  They loosened more 
> quickly than split washers.  Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, 
> neither of which were better than split washers.
>
> Anyone have a method that actually keeps the hardware tight?
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>

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    I've had best results putting a grade 8 flatwasher under the (grade
    8) bolt head (against the shock 'ear'), with a grade 8 splitwasher
    under the (grade 8) nut on the backside.  This is one location where
    threadlocker doesn't seem to work better than lockwashers.   And,
    torque the snot out of the bolts.  If the holes in the shocks are
    oblonged it gets even more problematic.<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/3/2016 4:39 PM, Richard Kahn
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
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      <div dir="ltr"><br>
        The split washer damage the mounting surfaces. Try nulock
        washers. They stay tight. I have not had a problem in 3 years
        since I installed them on the rear shocks. There are two washer
        that kind of ratchet together but can still be removed when
        needed. They have a great video on their web sight. They are
        readily available at fastener shops.<br>
        Rich Kahn <br>
        <div>
          <hr id="stopSpelling">From: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
          To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
          Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2016 16:08:52 -0800<br>
          Subject: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight<br>
          <br>
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          <div class="ecxWordSection1">
            <p class="ecxMsoNormal"><span
                style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet
                MS&quot;,sans-serif;">Seeking ideas on how to keep the
                rear shock mount bolts tight.  They work loose every
                1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine
                with my annual maintenance.  I currently have grade 8
                bolts, nuts and split washers.  Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and
                split washers were no worse (or better) than the grade
                8.  Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone
                posted about them on this list.  They loosened more
                quickly than split washers.  Tried thread locker and
                nylocks as well, neither of which were better than split
                washers.  </span></p>
            <p class="ecxMsoNormal"><span
                style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet
                MS&quot;,sans-serif;"> </span></p>
            <p class="ecxMsoNormal"><span
                style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet
                MS&quot;,sans-serif;">Anyone have a method that actually
                keeps the hardware tight?</span></p>
            <p class="ecxMsoNormal"><span
                style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet
                MS&quot;,sans-serif;"> </span></p>
            <p class="ecxMsoNormal"><span
                style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet
                MS&quot;,sans-serif;color:#1F497D;">Bruce Steele</span></p>
            <p class="ecxMsoNormal"><span
                style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet
                MS&quot;,sans-serif;color:#1F497D;">Brea, CA</span></p>
            <p class="ecxMsoNormal"><span
                style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet
                MS&quot;,sans-serif;color:#1F497D;">1960 BN7</span></p>
            <p class="ecxMsoNormal"> </p>
          </div>
          <br>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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[email-masked]

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From: Austin Healey <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2016 16:49:20 +0100

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I put coarse sandpaper gasket under the shock to prevent uneven movement
and use 10.9 grade bolts+steel shims+locknuts (reuseable if possible.

Gergo

2016-01-04 4:04 GMT+01:00 Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>:

> bolt head (against the shock 'ear'), with a grade 8 splitwasher under the
> (grade 8) nut on the backside.  This is one location where threadlocker
> doesn't seem to work better than lockwashers.   And, torque the snot out of
> the bolts.  If the holes in the shocks are oblonged it gets even more
> problematic.
>
> Bob
>
> The split washer damage the mounting surfaces. Try nulock washers. They
> stay tight. I have not had a problem in 3 years since I installed them on
> the rear shocks. There are two washer that kind of ratchet together but can
> still be removed when needed. They have a great video on their web sight.
> They are readily available at fastener shops.
> Rich Kahn
> ------------------------------
> Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.  They work
> loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with my
> annual maintenance.  I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split
> washers.  Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better)
> than the grade 8.  Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted
> about them on this list.  They loosened more quickly than split washers.
> Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better than
> split washers.
>
>
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">I put coarse sandpaper gasket under the shock to prevent u=
neven movement and use 10.9 grade bolts+steel shims+locknuts (reuseable if =
possible.<div><br></div><div>Gergo</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><b=
r><div class=3D"gmail_quote">2016-01-04 4:04 GMT+01:00 Bob Spidell <span di=
r=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">bsp=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span>:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" styl=
e=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF" text=3D"#000000">
    I&#39;ve had best results putting a grade 8 flatwasher under the (grade
    8) bolt head (against the shock &#39;ear&#39;), with a grade 8 splitwas=
her
    under the (grade 8) nut on the backside.=C2=A0 This is one location whe=
re
    threadlocker doesn&#39;t seem to work better than lockwashers. =C2=A0 A=
nd,
    torque the snot out of the bolts.=C2=A0 If the holes in the shocks are
    oblonged it gets even more problematic.<span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font col=
or=3D"#888888"><br>
    <br>
    Bob</font></span><span class=3D""><br>
    <br>
    <div>On 1/3/2016 4:39 PM, Richard Kahn
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
        The split washer damage the mounting surfaces. Try nulock
        washers. They stay tight. I have not had a problem in 3 years
        since I installed them on the rear shocks. There are two washer
        that kind of ratchet together but can still be removed when
        needed. They have a great video on their web sight. They are
        readily available at fastener shops.<br>
        Rich Kahn <br>
        <div>
          <hr>From: <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D=
"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
          To: <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">h=
[email-masked]</a><br>
          Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2016 16:08:52 -0800<br>
          Subject: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight<br>
          <br>
         =20
          <div>
            <p><span>Seeking ideas on how to keep the
                rear shock mount bolts tight.=C2=A0 They work loose every
                1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine
                with my annual maintenance.=C2=A0 I currently have grade 8
                bolts, nuts and split washers.=C2=A0 Grade 5 bolts, nuts, a=
nd
                split washers were no worse (or better) than the grade
                8.=C2=A0 Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone
                posted about them on this list.=C2=A0 They loosened more
                quickly than split washers.=C2=A0 Tried thread locker and
                nylocks as well, neither of which were better than split
                washers.=C2=A0 </span></p>
            <p><span>=C2=A0</span></p>
            <p><span>Anyone have a method that actually
                keeps the hardware tight?</span></p>
            <p><span>=C2=A0</span></p>
            <p><span>Bruce Steele</span></p>
            <p><span>Brea, CA</span></p>
            <p><span>1960 BN7</span></p>
            <p>=C2=A0</p>
          </div>
          <br>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </span></div>

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[email-masked]

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From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2016 13:17:17 -0500

--===============9088520723500502688==

--001a114035229346e005288621eb

Probably more work than most people would want to undertake but, because
for competition work I found that washers eventually dig into the ears, I
cut a "washer" the same shape as the shock "ear" out of 3/16" steel plate
and then put the bolt through it and tacked the head of the bolt to my
"washer".
This method has the added advantage that you don't need to hold the bolt
head while tightening the nut.

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 7:08 PM, Bruce Steele <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

-- 
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*

--001a114035229346e005288621eb
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Probably more work than most people would=
 want to undertake but, because for competition work I found that washers e=
ventually dig into the ears, I cut a &quot;washer&quot; the same shape as t=
he shock &quot;ear&quot; out of 3/16&quot; steel plate and then put the bol=
t through it and tacked the head of the bolt to my &quot;washer&quot;. <br>=
</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-=
serif;font-size:small">This method has the added advantage that you don&#39=
;t need to hold the bolt head while tightening the nut.<br><br></div><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-s=
ize:small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-fa=
mily:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div></div><div=
 class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 a=
t 7:08 PM, Bruce Steele <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeybruce=
@roadrunner.com" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span=
> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;bo=
rder-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#=
954F72" lang=3D"EN-US"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size=
:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-serif">Seeking ideas on h=
ow to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.=C2=A0 They work loose every 1,=
500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with my annual maintenan=
ce.=C2=A0 I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split washers.=C2=A0 Gra=
de 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better) than the grad=
e 8.=C2=A0 Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted about t=
hem on this list.=C2=A0 They loosened more quickly than split washers.=C2=
=A0 Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better t=
han split washers.=C2=A0 <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><s=
pan style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-ser=
if"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"fo=
nt-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-serif">Anyone have=
 a method that actually keeps the hardware tight?<u></u><u></u></span></p><=
p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tre=
buchet MS&quot;,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoN=
ormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;=
,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Bruce Steele<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&=
quot;,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Brea, CA<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet =
MS&quot;,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">1960 BN7<u></u><u></u></span></p><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div></div><br>___________________=
____________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
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<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail=
_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><i><font size=3D"2"><spa=
n style=3D"color:black">If you can&#39;t fix it with a hammer, you&#39;ve g=
ot an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><d=
iv></div></div></div></div></div>
</div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Richard Ewald <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2016 16:36:54 -0800

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Under most conditions a properly torqued bolt won't come loose unless expose=
d to extreme vibration. Books I have read on race car prep are very down on s=
plit lock washers as the authors feel that the bolt has too loosen before th=
e lock washer digs in. They much prefer using Loctite, new locking nuts or i=
f that is not adequate drilled and safety wired hardware.=20
Personally I think if you are going to go with lock washers go full Brit sty=
le. Bolt, lock washer, flat washer, bracket, shock, bracket, flat washer, lo=
ck washer, nut.=20
If you use Loctite the surfaces must be absolutely clean. No grease, no rust=
, no crud built up in the threads. Use a new nut and bolt if possible. Spray=
 the bolt and nut with brake clean just before assembly to make sure everyth=
ing is clean. Do not use red Loctite, use blue. When properly applied red wi=
ll tear the threads off a grade 8 bolt (I've done it!). That's a little more=
 staying power than you need.=20
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 3, 2016, at 16:08, Bruce Steele <[email-masked]> wrote:=

> Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.  They work l=
oose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with my annu=
al maintenance.  I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split washers.  Gr=
ade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better) than the grad=
e 8.  Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted about them on=
 this list.  They loosened more quickly than split washers.  Tried thread lo=
cker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better than split washers.=20=

> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.=
[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Under most conditions a properly torqu=
ed bolt won't come loose unless exposed to extreme vibration. Books I have r=
ead on race car prep are very down on split lock washers as the authors feel=
 that the bolt has too loosen before the lock washer digs in. They much pref=
er using Loctite, new locking nuts or if that is not adequate drilled and sa=
fety wired hardware.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Personally I t=
hink if you are going to go with lock washers go full Brit style. Bolt, lock=
 washer, flat washer, bracket, shock, bracket, flat washer, lock washer, nut=
.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">If you use Loctite the surfaces m=
ust be absolutely clean. No grease, no rust, no crud built up in the threads=
. Use a new nut and bolt if possible. Spray the bolt and nut with brake clea=
n just before assembly to make sure everything is clean. Do not use red Loct=
ite, use blue. When properly applied red will tear the threads off a grade 8=
 bolt (I've done it!). That's a little more staying power than you need.&nbs=
p;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Rick</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignatu=
re"><br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On Jan 3, 2016, at 16:08, Bruc=
e Steele &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">healeybruce@roadr=
unner.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><meta h=
ttp-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"><meta n=
ame=3D"Generator" content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 (filtered medium)"><style><!-=
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</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot=
;,sans-serif">Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.=
&nbsp; They work loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is ro=
utine with my annual maintenance.&nbsp; I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts=
 and split washers.&nbsp; Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no wor=
se (or better) than the grade 8.&nbsp; Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago a=
fter someone posted about them on this list.&nbsp; They loosened more quickl=
y than split washers.&nbsp; Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither=
 of which were better than split washers.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></span></p><p cla=
ss=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet=
 MS&quot;,sans-serif"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><sp=
an style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-serif=
">Anyone have a method that actually keeps the hardware tight?<o:p></o:p></s=
pan></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&=
quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-serif"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&qu=
ot;,sans-serif;color:#1F497D">Bruce Steele<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&qu=
ot;,sans-serif;color:#1F497D">Brea, CA<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoN=
ormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,=
sans-serif;color:#1F497D">1960 BN7<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><=
div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span>Su=
pport <a href=3D"http://team.net">Team.Net</a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.ne=
t/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested=
 annual donation &nbsp;$12.75</span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www=
.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <=
a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><=
br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Healeys@=
autox.team.net</a></span><br><span><a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/=
listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a></span><=
br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.n=
et/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/ma=
ilman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a></span><br><span></span><br=
></div></blockquote></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

--===============5073064039846931193==--

---

From: "J. Armour" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 14:10:17 +1100

--===============5244943451576054647==

--B_3534847824_344250

Michael has a valid point. The alloy in the shock body is relatively soft
and a small contact area under the bolt head or spring washer is
counterproductive. A larger and close fitting washer to provide a broader
contact area is an improvement.
If you look up engineering manuals on the three types of design joints (
1.snug, 2.? Cant remember,3. high strength friction grip )with bolts you
find that importance is paid to having the mating surfaces flat and paralle=
l
to each other and clean. ( trust me don=B9t assume they are, check)
Preferred tightening method in engineering is tighten the bolt snug (
lightly tight and without clearance between the mating surfaces including
washers and then tighten the nut a set degree to ensure the bolt has been
stretched.(Torque is a general indicator of bolt stretch but friction,
mis-alignment and soft commercial washers etc can make torque readings very
mis-leading.)  This is where to issue of 'soft' alloy bodies raise their
head and thus the bigger hard washer surface area requirement .

Joe

Subject:  Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight

Probably more work than most people would want to undertake but, because fo=
r
competition work I found that washers eventually dig into the ears, I cut a
"washer" the same shape as the shock "ear" out of 3/16" steel plate and the=
n
put the bolt through it and tacked the head of the bolt to my "washer".
This method has the added advantage that you don't need to hold the bolt
head while tightening the nut.

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 7:08 PM, Bruce Steele <[email-masked]>
wrote:
> annual maintenance.  I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split washe=
rs.
> Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better) than the
> grade 8.  Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted about =
them
> on this list.  They loosened more quickly than split washers.  Tried thre=
ad
> locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better than split washe=
rs.
> Anyone have a method that actually keeps the hardware tight?

--B_3534847824_344250

<html><head></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: s=
pace; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size:=
 14px; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; "><div>Michael has a valid point. T=
he alloy in the shock body is relatively soft and a small contact area under=
 the bolt head or spring washer is counterproductive. A larger and close fit=
ting washer to provide a broader contact area is an improvement.</div><div>I=
f you look up engineering manuals on the three types of design joints ( 1.sn=
ug, 2.? Cant remember,3. high strength friction grip )with bolts you find th=
at importance is paid to having the mating surfaces flat and parallel to eac=
h other and clean. ( trust me don&#8217;t assume they are, check)</div><div>=
Preferred tightening method in engineering is tighten the bolt snug ( lightl=
y tight and without clearance between the mating surfaces including washers =
and then tighten the nut a set degree to ensure the bolt has been stretched.=
(Torque is a general indicator of bolt stretch but friction, mis-alignment a=
nd soft commercial washers etc can make torque readings very mis-leading.) &=
nbsp;This is where to issue of 'soft' alloy bodies raise their head and thus=
 the bigger hard washer surface area requirement .</div><div><br></div><div>=
Joe</div><div><br></div><span id=3D"OLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION"><div style=3D"font-fam=
ily:Calibri; font-size:11pt; text-align:left; color:black; BORDER-BOTTOM: me=
dium none; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT: 0in;=
 PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium non=
e; PADDING-TOP: 3pt"><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">Subject: </span> Re: [He=
aleys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight<br></div><div><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font=
-size:small">Probably more work than most people would want to undertake but=
, because for competition work I found that washers eventually dig into the =
ears, I cut a "washer" the same shape as the shock "ear" out of 3/16" steel =
plate and then put the bolt through it and tacked the head of the bolt to my=
 "washer". <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic san=
s ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">This method has the added advantage that yo=
u don't need to hold the bolt head while tightening the nut.<br><br></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-si=
ze:small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:c=
omic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div></div><div class=3D=
"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 7:08 PM, B=
ruce Steele <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockqu=
ote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;=
padding-left:1ex"><div link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72" lang=3D"EN-US"><div><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', =
sans-serif; ">Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.=
&nbsp; They work loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is ro=
utine with my annual maintenance.&nbsp; I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts=
 and split washers.&nbsp; Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no wor=
se (or better) than the grade 8.&nbsp; Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago a=
fter someone posted about them on this list.&nbsp; They loosened more quickl=
y than split washers.&nbsp; Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither=
 of which were better than split washers.&nbsp; <u></u><u></u></span></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',=
 sans-serif; "><u></u>&nbsp;<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span sty=
le=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; ">Anyone have =
a method that actually keeps the hardware tight?<u></u><u></u></span></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS',=
 sans-serif; "><u></u>&nbsp;<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span sty=
le=3D"font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', s=
ans-serif; ">Bruce Steele<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span=
 style=3D"font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); font-family: 'Trebuchet MS=
', sans-serif; ">Brea, CA<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span=
 style=3D"font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); font-family: 'Trebuchet MS=
', sans-serif; ">1960 BN7<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></=
u>&nbsp;<u></u></p></div></div></blockquote></div></div><br></span></body></=
html>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: "Tracy Drummond" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2016 19:43:55 -0800

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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I used to have my kid ride in the back seat with a spanner.  When it =
banged she would give it a tighten.  Worked great for bashing the fuel =
pump too.  Now that the kids=E2=80=99 grown, I may need a trunk monkey =
or some lock tight.

=20

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of =
Austin Healey
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 7:49 AM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight

=20

I put coarse sandpaper gasket under the shock to prevent uneven movement =
and use 10.9 grade bolts+steel shims+locknuts (reuseable if possible.

=20

Gergo

=20

I've had best results putting a grade 8 flatwasher under the (grade 8) =
bolt head (against the shock 'ear'), with a grade 8 splitwasher under =
the (grade 8) nut on the backside.  This is one location where =
threadlocker doesn't seem to work better than lockwashers.   And, torque =
the snot out of the bolts.  If the holes in the shocks are oblonged it =
gets even more problematic.

Bob

The split washer damage the mounting surfaces. Try nulock washers. They =
stay tight. I have not had a problem in 3 years since I installed them =
on the rear shocks. There are two washer that kind of ratchet together =
but can still be removed when needed. They have a great video on their =
web sight. They are readily available at fastener shops.
Rich Kahn=20

  _____ =20

Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.  They =
work loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine =
with my annual maintenance.  I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and =
split washers.  Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or =
better) than the grade 8.  Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after =
someone posted about them on this list.  They loosened more quickly than =
split washers.  Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of =
which were better than split washers. =20

=20

=20

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

=20

=20

=20

[email-masked]

=20

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style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>I used to have my kid ride in the back seat with a spanner.=C2=A0 =
When it banged she would give it a tighten.=C2=A0 Worked great for =
bashing the fuel pump too.=C2=A0 Now that the kids=E2=80=99 grown, I may =
need a trunk monkey or some lock tight.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Austin Healey<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, January 04, 2016 7:49 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> Bob Spidell<br><b>Cc:</b> Healey =
List<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts =
tight<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I put =
coarse sandpaper gasket under the shock to prevent uneven movement and =
use 10.9 grade bolts+steel shims+locknuts (reuseable if =
possible.<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Gergo<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>2016-01-04 4:04 GMT+01:00 Bob Spidell &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;:<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>I've had best results =
putting a grade 8 flatwasher under the (grade 8) bolt head (against the =
shock 'ear'), with a grade 8 splitwasher under the (grade 8) nut on the =
backside.&nbsp; This is one location where threadlocker doesn't seem to =
work better than lockwashers. &nbsp; And, torque the snot out of the =
bolts.&nbsp; If the holes in the shocks are oblonged it gets even more =
problematic.<span style=3D'color:#888888'><br><br><span =
class=3Dhoenzb>Bob</span></span><o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 1/3/2016 4:39 PM, Richard Kahn =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br>The split washer damage the mounting surfaces. Try =
nulock washers. They stay tight. I have not had a problem in 3 years =
since I installed them on the rear shocks. There are two washer that =
kind of ratchet together but can still be removed when needed. They have =
a great video on their web sight. They are readily available at fastener =
shops.<br>Rich Kahn <o:p></o:p></p><div><div class=3DMsoNormal =
align=3Dcenter style=3D'text-align:center'><hr size=3D3 width=3D"100%" =
align=3Dcenter></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>From: <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>To: <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2016 =
16:08:52 -0800<br>Subject: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts =
tight<o:p></o:p></p><div><p>Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock =
mount bolts tight.&nbsp; They work loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and =
tightening them is routine with my annual maintenance.&nbsp; I currently =
have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split washers.&nbsp; Grade 5 bolts, nuts, =
and split washers were no worse (or better) than the grade 8.&nbsp; =
Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted about them on =
this list.&nbsp; They loosened more quickly than split washers.&nbsp; =
Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better =
than split washers.&nbsp; =
<o:p></o:p></p><p>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p>Anyone have a method that =
actually keeps the hardware =
tight?<o:p></o:p></p><p>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p>Bruce =
Steele<o:p></o:p></p><p>Brea, CA<o:p></o:p></p><p>1960 =
BN7<o:p></o:p></p><p>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><br>______________________________________=
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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2016 20:51:49 -0800

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Threadlocker works great on the front shock bolts, but I've not had much 
success with it on the rear shock bolts.  Here's my theory why:

When you apply threadlocker to a bolt it effectively glues it to a nut.  
On the front shock plates, where the nuts are captive, this approach 
works, but on the rears gluing the bolt to the nut doesn't do much good 
(except let/require the bolt and nut to rotate as an assembly).  I don't 
care for split lockwashers myself, but in this application they seem to 
work better than threadlocker (putting some sort of friction material 
between the shock and the mount makes sense, too).

Bob

On 1/4/2016 4:36 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> Under most conditions a properly torqued bolt won't come loose unless 
> exposed to extreme vibration. Books I have read on race car prep are 
> very down on split lock washers as the authors feel that the bolt has 
> too loosen before the lock washer digs in. They much prefer using 
> Loctite, new locking nuts or if that is not adequate drilled and 
> safety wired hardware.
> Personally I think if you are going to go with lock washers go full 
> Brit style. Bolt, lock washer, flat washer, bracket, shock, bracket, 
> flat washer, lock washer, nut.
> If you use Loctite the surfaces must be absolutely clean. No grease, 
> no rust, no crud built up in the threads. Use a new nut and bolt if 
> possible. Spray the bolt and nut with brake clean just before assembly 
> to make sure everything is clean. Do not use red Loctite, use blue. 
> When properly applied red will tear the threads off a grade 8 bolt 
> (I've done it!). That's a little more staying power than you need.
> Rick
>

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    Threadlocker works great on the front shock bolts, but I've not had
    much success with it on the rear shock bolts.  Here's my theory why:<br>
    <br>
    When you apply threadlocker to a bolt it effectively glues it to a
    nut.  On the front shock plates, where the nuts are captive, this
    approach works, but on the rears gluing the bolt to the nut doesn't
    do much good (except let/require the bolt and nut to rotate as an
    assembly).  I don't care for split lockwashers myself, but in this
    application they seem to work better than threadlocker (putting some
    sort of friction material between the shock and the mount makes
    sense, too).<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/4/2016 4:36 PM, Richard Ewald
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <div>Under most conditions a properly torqued bolt won't come
        loose unless exposed to extreme vibration. Books I have read on
        race car prep are very down on split lock washers as the authors
        feel that the bolt has too loosen before the lock washer digs
        in. They much prefer using Loctite, new locking nuts or if that
        is not adequate drilled and safety wired hardware. </div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature">Personally I think if you are going
        to go with lock washers go full Brit style. Bolt, lock washer,
        flat washer, bracket, shock, bracket, flat washer, lock washer,
        nut. </div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature">If you use Loctite the surfaces must
        be absolutely clean. No grease, no rust, no crud built up in the
        threads. Use a new nut and bolt if possible. Spray the bolt and
        nut with brake clean just before assembly to make sure
        everything is clean. Do not use red Loctite, use blue. When
        properly applied red will tear the threads off a grade 8 bolt
        (I've done it!). That's a little more staying power than you
        need. </div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature">Rick</div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature"><br>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2016 20:55:51 -0800

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Just occurred to me the best solution would be to weld the nuts to the 
backside of the mount (and use threadlocker on the bolt).

Bob

> (I've done it!). That's a little more staying power than you need.

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    Just occurred to me the best solution would be to weld the nuts to
    the backside of the mount (and use threadlocker on the bolt).<br>

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From: Larry Varley <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 18:28:42 +1100

Joe is on the money here, 30 years ago I almost had a front shock fall 
off the car. I made special washers for my car 3/16 thick and about 3/4 
diameter that seat neatly in the spot faced area around the bolts for 
both front and back shocks. To some degree the situation at the rear is 
worse than the front as the load is trying to rotate the shock rather 
than tear it off like the front. Lots of lovely paint between the shock 
and the chassis probably doesn't help. I have seen many shocks where the 
body has crushed down onto the bolts due to to much load at the edge of 
the hole. Hardened washers on the shock side will help and use UNF 
bolts, not UNC, not set screws. The fine thread will produce more 
clamping pressure relative to your probably aging arm muscles when you 
tighten the nuts at the rear shocks. I would use plain nuts on the bolts 
as most of the spring washers available now are complete rubbish. Be 
sure to also occasionally check your front shock bolts as well for 
tightness, as your in far bigger trouble if they let go.
Cheers
Larry Varley

On 5/01/2016 2:10 PM, J. Armour wrote:
> Michael has a valid point. The alloy in the shock body is relatively 
> soft and a small contact area under the bolt head or spring washer is 
> counterproductive. A larger and close fitting washer to provide a 
> broader contact area is an improvement.
> If you look up engineering manuals on the three types of design joints 
> ( 1.snug, 2.? Cant remember,3. high strength friction grip )with bolts 
> you find that importance is paid to having the mating surfaces flat 
> and parallel to each other and clean. ( trust me don’t assume they 
> are, check)
> lightly tight and without clearance between the mating surfaces 
> including washers and then tighten the nut a set degree to ensure the 
> bolt has been stretched.(Torque is a general indicator of bolt stretch 
> but friction, mis-alignment and soft commercial washers etc can make 
> torque readings very mis-leading.)  This is where to issue of 'soft' 
> alloy bodies raise their head and thus the bigger hard washer surface 
> area requirement .
>
> Joe
>
>

[email-masked]

ox.team.net

---

From: Alan Seigrist <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 15:49:08 +0800

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--001a114123eefdb44e05289178e8

For what it's worth, I've had good results by using grade 8 fine thread
bolts, steel washers and nylocs set to the "crazy ham fisted knuckle
busting" torque setting.

--001a114123eefdb44e05289178e8

<div dir="ltr">For what it&#39;s worth, I&#39;ve had good results by using grade 8 fine thread bolts, steel washers and nylocs set to the &quot;crazy ham fisted knuckle busting&quot; torque setting.</div>

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From: richard mayor <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 18:29:41 -0800

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I've been driving and racing Healeys for over 40 years.  Michael's solution
is the best!

But, you also need to weld up any ovaling in the mounting holes.

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 7:10 PM, J. Armour <[email-masked]> wrote:

> find that importance is paid to having the mating surfaces flat and
> parallel to each other and clean. ( trust me don=E2=80=99t assume they ar=
e, check)
> mis-alignment and soft commercial washers etc can make torque readings ve=
ry
>> Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.  They wor=
k
>> washers.  Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or bette=
r)
>> than the grade 8.  Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone pos=
ted
>> Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better th=
an
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>I&#39;ve been driving and racing Healeys for over 40 =
years.=C2=A0 Michael&#39;s solution is the best!=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 <br><br>=
</div>But, you also need to weld up any ovaling in the mounting holes. <br>=
</div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Jan=
 4, 2016 at 7:10 PM, J. Armour <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:sebr=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</spa=
n> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;b=
order-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"word-wrap:break-w=
ord;color:rgb(0,0,0);font-size:14px;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif"><div>Mi=
chael has a valid point. The alloy in the shock body is relatively soft and=
 a small contact area under the bolt head or spring washer is counterproduc=
tive. A larger and close fitting washer to provide a broader contact area i=
s an improvement.</div><div>If you look up engineering manuals on the three=
 types of design joints ( 1.snug, 2.? Cant remember,3. high strength fricti=
on grip )with bolts you find that importance is paid to having the mating s=
urfaces flat and parallel to each other and clean. ( trust me don=E2=80=99t=
 assume they are, check)</div><div>Preferred tightening method in engineeri=
ng is tighten the bolt snug ( lightly tight and without clearance between t=
he mating surfaces including washers and then tighten the nut a set degree =
to ensure the bolt has been stretched.(Torque is a general indicator of bol=
t stretch but friction, mis-alignment and soft commercial washers etc can m=
ake torque readings very mis-leading.) =C2=A0This is where to issue of &#39=
;soft&#39; alloy bodies raise their head and thus the bigger hard washer su=
rface area requirement .</div><div><br></div><div>Joe</div><div><br></div><=
span><div style=3D"font-family:Calibri;font-size:11pt;text-align:left;color=
:black;BORDER-BOTTOM:medium none;BORDER-LEFT:medium none;PADDING-BOTTOM:0in=
;PADDING-LEFT:0in;PADDING-RIGHT:0in;BORDER-TOP:#b5c4df 1pt solid;BORDER-RIG=
HT:medium none;PADDING-TOP:3pt"><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">Subject: <=
/span> Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight<br></div><div><br></div=
><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic s=
ans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Probably more work than most people woul=
d want to undertake but, because for competition work I found that washers =
eventually dig into the ears, I cut a &quot;washer&quot; the same shape as =
the shock &quot;ear&quot; out of 3/16&quot; steel plate and then put the bo=
lt through it and tacked the head of the bolt to my &quot;washer&quot;. <br=
></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans=
-serif;font-size:small">This method has the added advantage that you don&#3=
9;t need to hold the bolt head while tightening the nut.<br><br></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-=
size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-f=
amily:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div></div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 =
at 7:08 PM, Bruce Steele <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeybruc=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</spa=
n> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;b=
order-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"=
#954F72" lang=3D"EN-US"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-siz=
e:12pt;font-family:&#39;Trebuchet MS&#39;,sans-serif">Seeking ideas on how =
to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.=C2=A0 They work loose every 1,500=
 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with my annual maintenance.=
=C2=A0 I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split washers.=C2=A0 Grade =
5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better) than the grade 8=
.=C2=A0 Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted about them=
 on this list.=C2=A0 They loosened more quickly than split washers.=C2=A0 T=
ried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better than s=
plit washers.=C2=A0 <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span s=
tyle=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:&#39;Trebuchet MS&#39;,sans-serif"><u></=
u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:1=
2pt;font-family:&#39;Trebuchet MS&#39;,sans-serif">Anyone have a method tha=
t actually keeps the hardware tight?<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:&#39;Trebuchet MS&#39;,s=
ans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span styl=
e=3D"font-size:12pt;color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:&#39;Trebuchet MS&#39;=
,sans-serif">Bruce Steele<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><s=
pan style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:&#39;Trebuchet=
 MS&#39;,sans-serif">Brea, CA<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal=
"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:&#39;Trebu=
chet MS&#39;,sans-serif">1960 BN7<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div></div></blockquote></div></div><br></sp=
an></div>
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---

From: Larry Varley <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 18:13:22 +1100

While my comment didn't mention Mike Salter's contribution to the 
discussion, and have seen the quality of Mike's work over many years, I 
have no doubts about his problem solving ability. Where this situation 
gets worse, as has been mentioned, is when the holes in the mount plate 
get worn oval. It occurred to me that some enterprising person could 
devise a 3/8 thick plate with 2 tapped holes that would sit on the 
inside the the mounting plate and replace the nuts. It could locate in 
its soundings and be an easy retrofit to existing cars, without any 
welding involved, or could be welded in during a restoration. Just a 
thought for what it may or may not be worth.
Cheers
Larry Varley.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]

---

From: Alan Seigrist <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 16:00:30 +0800

--===============2581791775908919030==

--001a1141a6347393270528a5bf10

Larry - wow, best solution I heard yet.  Especially if this plate rest
flush against the bottoms of side of the mount plate.  You could then lock
the bolts with a nut against the threaded plate after it is tightened.
Elegant.

I was half thinking to make a tab washer connected to both bolts, and
security wire  the bolts together, but I think your solution makes much
more sense.

- Alan

On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 3:13 PM, Larry Varley <[email-masked]> wrote:

> have no doubts about his problem solving ability. Where this situation gets
> worse, as has been mentioned, is when the holes in the mount plate get worn
> oval. It occurred to me that some enterprising person could devise a 3/8
> thick plate with 2 tapped holes that would sit on the inside the the
> mounting plate and replace the nuts. It could locate in its soundings and
> be an easy retrofit to existing cars, without any welding involved, or
> could be welded in during a restoration. Just a thought for what it may or
> may not be worth.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley.
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Larry - wow, best solution I heard yet.=C2=A0 Especially i=
f this plate rest flush against the bottoms of side of the mount plate.=C2=
=A0 You could then lock the bolts with a nut against the threaded plate aft=
er it is tightened.=C2=A0 Elegant.=C2=A0<br><br>I was half thinking to make=
 a tab washer connected to both bolts, and security wire =C2=A0the bolts to=
gether, but I think your solution makes much more sense.<br><div><br></div>=
<div>- Alan</div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 3:13 PM, Larry Varley <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>=
&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0=
 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">While my comment didn&=
#39;t mention Mike Salter&#39;s contribution to the discussion, and have se=
en the quality of Mike&#39;s work over many years, I have no doubts about h=
is problem solving ability. Where this situation gets worse, as has been me=
ntioned, is when the holes in the mount plate get worn oval. It occurred to=
 me that some enterprising person could devise a 3/8 thick plate with 2 tap=
ped holes that would sit on the inside the the mounting plate and replace t=
he nuts. It could locate in its soundings and be an easy retrofit to existi=
ng cars, without any welding involved, or could be welded in during a resto=
ration. Just a thought for what it may or may not be worth.<br>
Cheers<br>
Larry Varley.<span class=3D""><br></span></blockquote></div></div></div>

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---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 10:11:36 +0100

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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--------------060309010900070803090501
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As Mike Salter mentions, it is not a question of nuts working loose, so 
tab washers and security wire won't help much. The material is deforming 
thus creating play, not because the nut/bolt is turning. When working 
with aluminium alloy it is always important to have the mating face of 
the body machined, a large hardened and machined washer is fitted and 
tight fitting grade 8 or higher bolt and nuts are used.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 6-1-2016 om 9:00 schreef Alan Seigrist:
> flush against the bottoms of side of the mount plate.  You could then 
> lock the bolts with a nut against the threaded plate after it is 
> tightened.  Elegant.
>
> security wire  the bolts together, but I think your solution makes 
> much more sense.
>
> - Alan
>
> On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 3:13 PM, Larry Varley <[email-masked] 
>
>     discussion, and have seen the quality of Mike's work over many
>     years, I have no doubts about his problem solving ability. Where
>     this situation gets worse, as has been mentioned, is when the
>     holes in the mount plate get worn oval. It occurred to me that
>     some enterprising person could devise a 3/8 thick plate with 2
>     tapped holes that would sit on the inside the the mounting plate
>     and replace the nuts. It could locate in its soundings and be an
>     easy retrofit to existing cars, without any welding involved, or
>     could be welded in during a restoration. Just a thought for what
>     it may or may not be worth.
>     Cheers
>     Larry Varley.
>
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11332 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 01/05/16
>

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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
      As Mike Salter mentions, it is not a question of nuts working
      loose, so tab washers and security wire won't help much. The
      material is deforming thus creating play, not because the nut/bolt
      is turning. When working with aluminium alloy it is always
      important to have the mating face of the body machined, a large
      hardened and machined washer is fitted and tight fitting grade 8
      or higher bolt and nuts are used. <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      Op 6-1-2016 om 9:00 schreef Alan Seigrist:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Larry - wow, best solution I heard yet.  Especially
        if this plate rest flush against the bottoms of side of the
        mount plate.  You could then lock the bolts with a nut against
        the threaded plate after it is tightened.  Elegant. <br>
        <br>
        I was half thinking to make a tab washer connected to both
        bolts, and security wire  the bolts together, but I think your
        solution makes much more sense.<br>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>- Alan</div>
        <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
          <div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 3:13 PM, Larry
            Varley <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span>
            wrote:<br>
            <blockquote class="gmail_quote">While my comment didn't
              mention Mike Salter's contribution to the discussion, and
              have seen the quality of Mike's work over many years, I
              have no doubts about his problem solving ability. Where
              this situation gets worse, as has been mentioned, is when
              the holes in the mount plate get worn oval. It occurred to
              me that some enterprising person could devise a 3/8 thick
              plate with 2 tapped holes that would sit on the inside the
              the mounting plate and replace the nuts. It could locate
              in its soundings and be an easy retrofit to existing cars,
              without any welding involved, or could be welded in during
              a restoration. Just a thought for what it may or may not
              be worth.<br>
              Cheers<br>
              Larry Varley.<span class=""><br>
              </span></blockquote>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>

</pre>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
        Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
          href="http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</a><br>
        Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11332 - datum van
        uitgifte: 01/05/16</p>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------060309010900070803090501--

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[email-masked]

--===============5017197016194545842==--

---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 12:04:41 -0500

--===============5432224501885140427==

--001a11c3f85aa223640528ad59b7

I should mention that in addition to the small plates on the surface of the
shock ears with the bolt heads welded to them  I also borrowed a little bit
of 100S technology for AHX12 and made up some small plates with a "V"
shaped  notch that fitted tightly onto the edges of the shock ears. These
were welded onto the surface of the shock mount.
Despite all these efforts I still found that "heavy landings" then broke
the ears off the shocks!!!
The final solution was a little more radical.
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=87

Michael S
BN1 #174

--001a11c3f85aa223640528ad59b7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I should mention that in addition to the =
small plates on the surface of the shock ears with the bolt heads welded to=
 them=C2=A0 I also borrowed a little bit of 100S technology for AHX12 and m=
ade up some small plates with a &quot;V&quot; shaped=C2=A0 notch that fitte=
d tightly onto the edges of the shock ears. These were welded onto the surf=
ace of the shock mount. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"fon=
t-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Despite all these effort=
s I still found that &quot;heavy landings&quot; then broke the ears off the=
 shocks!!!<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic=
 sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The final solution was a little more r=
adical. <a href=3D"http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D87">http://www.ne=
tbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D87</a><br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br=
></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans=
-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra">=
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 1:17 PM, Michael Salt=
er <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote cl=
ass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;p=
adding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"fon=
t-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Probably more work than =
most people would want to undertake but, because for competition work I fou=
nd that washers eventually dig into the ears, I cut a &quot;washer&quot; th=
e same shape as the shock &quot;ear&quot; out of 3/16&quot; steel plate and=
 then put the bolt through it and tacked the head of the bolt to my &quot;w=
asher&quot;. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:co=
mic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">This method has the added advantage=
 that you don&#39;t need to hold the bolt head while tightening the nut.<br=
><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,=
sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default"=
 style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br=
></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div=
><div class=3D"h5">On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 7:08 PM, Bruce Steele <span dir=
=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank=
">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br></div></div><blockquo=
te class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc so=
lid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div class=3D"h5"><div link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D=
"#954F72" lang=3D"EN-US"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-si=
ze:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-serif">Seeking ideas on=
 how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.=C2=A0 They work loose every =
1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with my annual mainten=
ance.=C2=A0 I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split washers.=C2=A0 G=
rade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better) than the gr=
ade 8.=C2=A0 Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted about=
 them on this list.=C2=A0 They loosened more quickly than split washers.=C2=
=A0 Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better t=
han split washers.=C2=A0 <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><s=
pan style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-ser=
if"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"fo=
nt-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-serif">Anyone have=
 a method that actually keeps the hardware tight?<u></u><u></u></span></p><=
p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tre=
buchet MS&quot;,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoN=
ormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;=
,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Bruce Steele<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&=
quot;,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Brea, CA<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet =
MS&quot;,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">1960 BN7<u></u><u></u></span></p><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div></div><br></div></div><span c=
lass=3D"">_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br></span>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888"><br><=
br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><i>=
<font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"color:black">If you can&#39;t fix it with a=
 hammer, you&#39;ve got an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><di=
v></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></div>
</font></span></div>
</blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail_sig=
nature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><i><font size=3D"2"><span st=
yle=3D"color:black">If you can&#39;t fix it with a hammer, you&#39;ve got a=
n electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><div><=
/div></div></div></div></div>
</div>

--001a11c3f85aa223640528ad59b7--

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[email-masked]

--===============5432224501885140427==--

---

From: Austin Healey <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 21:16:15 +0100

--===============9144708686625652405==

--001a1142e9c2b8b76e0528b00602

Try what I suggested: coarse sand paper gasket under the shock. The bolt
connection is a friction-bend. To increase its power, You either increase
the held down force, OR increase the surface coeficient. The sand paper
does this.
We had hard times with Mini shock mount plates. Finally the sand paper
gasket solved the problem (even K+D gluing came of).

gergo

2016-01-06 18:04 GMT+01:00 Michael Salter <[email-masked]>:

> I should mention that in addition to the small plates on the surface of
> the shock ears with the bolt heads welded to them  I also borrowed a little
> bit of 100S technology for AHX12 and made up some small plates with a "V"
>>> work loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with
>>> my annual maintenance.  I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split

--001a1142e9c2b8b76e0528b00602
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Try what I suggested: coarse sand paper gasket under the s=
hock. The bolt connection is a friction-bend. To increase its power, You ei=
ther increase the held down force, OR increase the surface coeficient. The =
sand paper does this.<div>We had hard times with Mini shock mount plates. F=
inally the sand paper gasket solved the problem (even K+D gluing came of).<=
br><div><br></div><div>gergo</div></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><b=
r><div class=3D"gmail_quote">2016-01-06 18:04 GMT+01:00 Michael Salter <spa=
n dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_bla=
nk">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span>:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_q=
uote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1e=
x"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic=
 sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I should mention that in addition to t=
he small plates on the surface of the shock ears with the bolt heads welded=
 to them=C2=A0 I also borrowed a little bit of 100S technology for AHX12 an=
d made up some small plates with a &quot;V&quot; shaped=C2=A0 notch that fi=
tted tightly onto the edges of the shock ears. These were welded onto the s=
urface of the shock mount. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"=
font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Despite all these eff=
orts I still found that &quot;heavy landings&quot; then broke the ears off =
the shocks!!!<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:co=
mic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The final solution was a little mor=
e radical. <a href=3D"http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D87" target=3D"=
_blank">http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D87</a><br><br></div><div cla=
ss=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-siz=
e:small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-fami=
ly:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div></div><div c=
lass=3D"HOEnZb"><div class=3D"h5"><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 1:17 PM, Michael Salter <span dir=
=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">m=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_=
quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1=
ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comi=
c sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Probably more work than most people w=
ould want to undertake but, because for competition work I found that washe=
rs eventually dig into the ears, I cut a &quot;washer&quot; the same shape =
as the shock &quot;ear&quot; out of 3/16&quot; steel plate and then put the=
 bolt through it and tacked the head of the bolt to my &quot;washer&quot;. =
<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,s=
ans-serif;font-size:small">This method has the added advantage that you don=
&#39;t need to hold the bolt head while tightening the nut.<br><br></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"fon=
t-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div></div>=
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div><div>On Sun,=
 Jan 3, 2016 at 7:08 PM, Bruce Steele <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mail=
to:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br></div></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" sty=
le=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><=
div><div link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72" lang=3D"EN-US"><div><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&=
quot;,sans-serif">Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts t=
ight.=C2=A0 They work loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them=
 is routine with my annual maintenance.=C2=A0 I currently have grade 8 bolt=
s, nuts and split washers.=C2=A0 Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers wer=
e no worse (or better) than the grade 8.=C2=A0 Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 ye=
ars ago after someone posted about them on this list.=C2=A0 They loosened m=
ore quickly than split washers.=C2=A0 Tried thread locker and nylocks as we=
ll, neither of which were better than split washers.=C2=A0 <u></u><u></u></=
span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family=
:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p cla=
ss=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuche=
t MS&quot;,sans-serif">Anyone have a method that actually keeps the hardwar=
e tight?<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font=
-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0=
<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;fo=
nt-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Bruce Steele<u=
></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0=
pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Brea, CA<=
u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.=
0pt;font-family:&quot;Trebuchet MS&quot;,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">1960 BN7=
<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></d=
iv></div><br></div></div><span>____________________________________________=
___<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br></span>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><span><font color=3D"#888888"><br><br clear=3D"all">=
<br>-- <br><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><i><font size=3D"2">=
<span style=3D"color:black">If you can&#39;t fix it with a hammer, you&#39;=
ve got an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></di=
v><div></div></div></div></div></div>
</font></span></div>
</blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><=
div><div dir=3D"ltr"><i><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"color:black">If you=
 can&#39;t fix it with a hammer, you&#39;ve got an electrical problem.</spa=
n></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></d=
iv>
</div>
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