Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel

From: Chris Scholz <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 00:11:46 +0000

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Mike, wouldn't regular polyurethane give the same result?  With the age of =
the wheel, there appears to be no clear coat left on the steering wheel.
I wonder if I can just clean it with mild steel wool and bleach and then po=
lyurethane?

Sent from my iPhone
Chris Scholz OD

While I was once a regular reader and participant in this email list, I rar=
ely have the time anymore to read the digests I receive. I do sometime scan=
 through the subject before filing the digest email. I just happened to do =
that and noticed the discussion about steering wheel refinishing.

There is much I can write and when I do I typically transgress into all kin=
ds of related trivia, but I will try to avoid that.  But first some comment=
s about the original poster=92s wheel. It is indeed a Derrington type, but =
it is very difficult to know whether it came from Derrington or from anothe=
r of a few makers. Moto-Lita was certainly one of the makers and they did s=
ell wheels as Derringtons. I can usually tell a Moto-Lita by the workmanshi=
p if not the quality of the ply laminate. A rivet poorly aligned with a spo=
ke is an indication of Moto-Lita.  In this case it is something else that I=
 find unusual. Notice how the nine mounting holes are misaligned with the s=
pokes. That was either a very poorly done job from new or it was a wheel so=
ld without holes which allowed the owner to drill and maybe misalign intent=
ionally... or accidentally.  More can be read about Derrington in my blog h=
ere, although the information is not exhaustive: http://www.pbase.com/mdlem=
pert/victor

Refinishing or restoring these type rims is difficult due to the time and e=
xposure effects and also the limitations of the wood grain in spots as expl=
ained in my blog. It is always a judgment call whether to restore or replac=
e the rim. I have recently completed one rare Victor Derrington for a Heale=
y and am working on another for a Jag XK. The Healey rim was worth saving b=
ecause it was in relatively good shape, but the Jag had to be replaced most=
ly due to bad work performed earlier.  The old wood, mahogany and obeche, e=
specially the obeche colors gets muddled over time and no longer displays t=
he original contrasting colors, but can still look nice as an obviously old=
 and original rim.

I do not use chemicals for stripping rims, I use a very sharp razor as a sc=
raping tool, being careful to scrape in the angle of the grain not to damag=
e =96 you can feel it, but laminates will have grain going in multiple dire=
ctions, so care is needed.  Only after fully removing the finish will I do =
any amount of sanding, and never so much as to remove much wood. I do most =
of the sanding by spinning the wheel on a lathe, but obviously not the rear=
 where the grips appear. In this case with the Healey version, we went thro=
ugh more heroic efforts to save the wood. It was scrubbed with a toothbrush=
 using ammonia and then bleach two times. Still, the colors were muddled, b=
ut better. After neutralizing the cleaners and sanding again just to smooth=
 any raised grain, it was given the new finish. I have read that the origin=
al finishing was french polish, or at least at some point in time (Derringt=
on, not necessarily Moto-Lita).  While you can select whatever method you a=
re comfortable or desire, I use a UV cure clear finish. Over the years I=92=
ve used a number of finishes, but for the amount of work I do now I have mo=
ved to this UV system which I find to be excellent in every way. I would al=
so recommend Waterlox at least for a sealer if not topcoat also. It is a wi=
pe on tung and resin mix. I have also used General Finishes water based (on=
ly after the Waterlox seal) Enduro-Var gloss. It can only be applied after =
the sealer has dried fully. It typically took five coats with sanding in be=
tween. It dries quickly and feels great when done. I always polished the ri=
m on the lathe after finishing to smooth out perfectly and give the desired=
 amount of shine/sheen.

This is the Victor Derrinton after all was done (UV cure), but prior to the=
 metal being cleaned and final polishing:  http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/s=
malley

Happy New Year

Mike Lempert
Lempert Wheels
=9156 BN2
=9159 BN7
=9160 Bugeye

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

visioncenterpc.com

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<head>
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</head>
<body dir=3D"auto">
<div>Mike, wouldn't regular polyurethane give the same result? &nbsp;With t=
he age of the wheel, there appears to be no clear coat left on the steering=
 wheel.&nbsp;</div>
<div>I wonder if I can just clean it with mild steel wool and bleach and th=
en polyurethane?<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone
<div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
</div>
<div><br>
On Jan 1, 2016, at 2:29 PM, &quot;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a>&quot; &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mlempert@bellsouth.=
net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000">
<div>While I was once a regular reader and participant in this email list, =
I rarely have the time anymore to read the digests I receive. I do sometime=
 scan through the subject before filing the digest email. I just happened t=
o do that and noticed the discussion
 about steering wheel refinishing. </div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>There is much I can write and when I do I typically transgress into al=
l kinds of related trivia, but I will try to avoid that.&nbsp; But first so=
me comments about the original poster=92s wheel. It is indeed a Derrington =
type, but it is very difficult to know
 whether it came from Derrington or from another of a few makers. Moto-Lita=
 was certainly one of the makers and they did sell wheels as Derringtons. I=
 can usually tell a Moto-Lita by the workmanship if not the quality of the =
ply laminate. A rivet poorly aligned
 with a spoke is an indication of Moto-Lita.&nbsp; In this case it is somet=
hing else that I find unusual. Notice how the nine mounting holes are misal=
igned with the spokes. That was either a very poorly done job from new or i=
t was a wheel sold without holes which
 allowed the owner to drill and maybe misalign intentionally... or accident=
ally.&nbsp; More can be read about Derrington in my blog here, although the=
 information is not exhaustive:
<a title=3D"http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor" href=3D"http://www.pbase=
.com/mdlempert/victor">
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor</a>&nbsp; </div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Refinishing or restoring these type rims is difficult due to the time =
and exposure effects and also the limitations of the wood grain in spots as=
 explained in my blog. It is always a judgment call whether to restore or r=
eplace the rim. I have recently
 completed one rare Victor Derrington for a Healey and am working on anothe=
r for a Jag XK. The Healey rim was worth saving because it was in relativel=
y good shape, but the Jag had to be replaced mostly due to bad work perform=
ed earlier.&nbsp; The old wood, mahogany
 and obeche, especially the obeche colors gets muddled over time and no lon=
ger displays the original contrasting colors, but can still look nice as an=
 obviously old and original rim.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I do not use chemicals for stripping rims, I use a very sharp razor as=
 a scraping tool, being careful to scrape in the angle of the grain not to =
damage =96 you can feel it, but laminates will have grain going in multiple=
 directions, so care is needed.&nbsp; Only
 after fully removing the finish will I do any amount of sanding, and never=
 so much as to remove much wood. I do most of the sanding by spinning the w=
heel on a lathe, but obviously not the rear where the grips appear. In this=
 case with the Healey version, we
 went through more heroic efforts to save the wood. It was scrubbed with a =
toothbrush using ammonia and then bleach two times. Still, the colors were =
muddled, but better. After neutralizing the cleaners and sanding again just=
 to smooth any raised grain, it
 was given the new finish. I have read that the original finishing was fren=
ch polish, or at least at some point in time (Derrington, not necessarily M=
oto-Lita).&nbsp; While you can select whatever method you are comfortable o=
r desire, I use a UV cure clear finish.
 Over the years I=92ve used a number of finishes, but for the amount of wor=
k I do now I have moved to this UV system which I find to be excellent in e=
very way. I would also recommend Waterlox at least for a sealer if not topc=
oat also. It is a wipe on tung and
 resin mix. I have also used General Finishes water based (only after the W=
aterlox seal) Enduro-Var gloss. It can only be applied after the sealer has=
 dried fully. It typically took five coats with sanding in between. It drie=
s quickly and feels great when done.
 I always polished the rim on the lathe after finishing to smooth out perfe=
ctly and give the desired amount of shine/sheen.
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>This is the Victor Derrinton after all was done (UV cure), but prior t=
o the metal being cleaned and final polishing:&nbsp;
<a title=3D"http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley" href=3D"http://www.pbas=
e.com/mdlempert/smalley">
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley</a></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Happy New Year</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Mike Lempert</div>
<div>Lempert Wheels</div>
<div>=9156 BN2</div>
<div>=9159 BN7</div>
<div>=9160 Bugeye</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
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From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 11:17:28 +0100

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Mike,

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and work method. Very informative.

I have also noticed that Moto-Lita is not to precise in fitting the 
rivets, especially at the rear where they (and the holes in the wood) 
can be very badly finished.

I do not think that steering wheels were ever finished by proper French 
polishing (shellac/ethanol mixture rubbed on with a pad, using a few 
drops of raw linseed oil to prevent sticking of the pad). Although it 
will give a superior finish (very high gloss), it is a very laborious 
process and it would not be resistant against moisture from e.g. sweaty 
hands.
May be a similar process was used but I suspect the manufacturers 
claimed a lacquered steering wheel to be French polished as the finish 
looked a bit like it.

I am surprised you use ammonia and bleach on the wood. I have always 
avoided that in fear of damaging the glue in the laminate.

Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 1-1-2016 om 21:28 schreef [email-masked]:
> While I was once a regular reader and participant in this email list, 
> I rarely have the time anymore to read the digests I receive. I do 
> sometime scan through the subject before filing the digest email. I 
> just happened to do that and noticed the discussion about steering 
> wheel refinishing.
> There is much I can write and when I do I typically transgress into 
> all kinds of related trivia, but I will try to avoid that.  But first 
> some comments about the original poster’s wheel. It is indeed a 
> Derrington type, but it is very difficult to know whether it came from 
> Derrington or from another of a few makers. Moto-Lita was certainly 
> one of the makers and they did sell wheels as Derringtons. I can 
> usually tell a Moto-Lita by the workmanship if not the quality of the 
> ply laminate. A rivet poorly aligned with a spoke is an indication of 
> Moto-Lita.  In this case it is something else that I find unusual. 
> Notice how the nine mounting holes are misaligned with the spokes. 
> That was either a very poorly done job from new or it was a wheel sold 
> without holes which allowed the owner to drill and maybe misalign 
> intentionally... or accidentally.  More can be read about Derrington 
> in my blog here, although the information is not exhaustive: 
> http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor
> Refinishing or restoring these type rims is difficult due to the time 
> and exposure effects and also the limitations of the wood grain in 
> spots as explained in my blog. It is always a judgment call whether to 
> restore or replace the rim. I have recently completed one rare Victor 
> Derrington for a Healey and am working on another for a Jag XK. The 
> Healey rim was worth saving because it was in relatively good shape, 
> but the Jag had to be replaced mostly due to bad work performed 
> earlier.  The old wood, mahogany and obeche, especially the obeche 
> colors gets muddled over time and no longer displays the original 
> contrasting colors, but can still look nice as an obviously old and 
> original rim.
> I do not use chemicals for stripping rims, I use a very sharp razor as 
> a scraping tool, being careful to scrape in the angle of the grain not 
> to damage – you can feel it, but laminates will have grain going in 
> multiple directions, so care is needed.  Only after fully removing the 
> finish will I do any amount of sanding, and never so much as to remove 
> much wood. I do most of the sanding by spinning the wheel on a lathe, 
> but obviously not the rear where the grips appear. In this case with 
> the Healey version, we went through more heroic efforts to save the 
> wood. It was scrubbed with a toothbrush using ammonia and then bleach 
> two times. Still, the colors were muddled, but better. After 
> neutralizing the cleaners and sanding again just to smooth any raised 
> grain, it was given the new finish. I have read that the original 
> finishing was french polish, or at least at some point in time 
> (Derrington, not necessarily Moto-Lita).  While you can select 
> whatever method you are comfortable or desire, I use a UV cure clear 
> finish. Over the years I’ve used a number of finishes, but for the 
> amount of work I do now I have moved to this UV system which I find to 
> be excellent in every way. I would also recommend Waterlox at least 
> for a sealer if not topcoat also. It is a wipe on tung and resin mix. 
> I have also used General Finishes water based (only after the Waterlox 
> seal) Enduro-Var gloss. It can only be applied after the sealer has 
> dried fully. It typically took five coats with sanding in between. It 
> dries quickly and feels great when done. I always polished the rim on 
> the lathe after finishing to smooth out perfectly and give the desired 
> amount of shine/sheen.
> This is the Victor Derrinton after all was done (UV cure), but prior 
> to the metal being cleaned and final polishing: 
> http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley
> Happy New Year
> Mike Lempert
> Lempert Wheels
> ‘56 BN2
> ‘59 BN7
> ‘60 Bugeye
>
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11299 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 01/01/16
>

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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Mike,<br>
      <br>
      Thank you for sharing your knowledge and work method. Very
      informative.<br>
      <br>
      I have also noticed that Moto-Lita is not to precise in fitting
      the rivets, especially at the rear where they (and the holes in
      the wood) can be very badly finished. <br>
      <br>
      I do not think that steering wheels were ever finished by proper
      French polishing (shellac/ethanol mixture rubbed on with a pad,
      using a few drops of raw linseed oil to prevent sticking of the
      pad). Although it will give a superior finish (very high gloss),
      it is a very laborious process and it would not be resistant
      against moisture from e.g. sweaty hands.<br>
      May be a similar process was used but I suspect the manufacturers
      claimed a lacquered steering wheel to be French polished as the
      finish looked a bit like it.<br>
      <br>
      I am surprised you use ammonia and bleach on the wood. I have
      always avoided that in fear of damaging the glue in the laminate.<br>
      <br>
      Cheers,<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 1-1-2016 om 21:28 schreef <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:8A1EAFAD63234766957932E4DE46D28B@woodrimHP"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div>
          <div>While I was once a regular reader and participant in this
            email list, I rarely have the time anymore to read the
            digests I receive. I do sometime scan through the subject
            before filing the digest email. I just happened to do that
            and noticed the discussion about steering wheel refinishing.
          </div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>There is much I can write and when I do I typically
            transgress into all kinds of related trivia, but I will try
            to avoid that.  But first some comments about the original
            poster’s wheel. It is indeed a Derrington type, but it is
            very difficult to know whether it came from Derrington or
            from another of a few makers. Moto-Lita was certainly one of
            the makers and they did sell wheels as Derringtons. I can
            usually tell a Moto-Lita by the workmanship if not the
            quality of the ply laminate. A rivet poorly aligned with a
            spoke is an indication of Moto-Lita.  In this case it is
            something else that I find unusual. Notice how the nine
            mounting holes are misaligned with the spokes. That was
            either a very poorly done job from new or it was a wheel
            sold without holes which allowed the owner to drill and
            maybe misalign intentionally... or accidentally.  More can
            be read about Derrington in my blog here, although the
            information is not exhaustive: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
              title="http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor"
              href="http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor">http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor</a> 
          </div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>Refinishing or restoring these type rims is difficult due
            to the time and exposure effects and also the limitations of
            the wood grain in spots as explained in my blog. It is
            always a judgment call whether to restore or replace the
            rim. I have recently completed one rare Victor Derrington
            for a Healey and am working on another for a Jag XK. The
            Healey rim was worth saving because it was in relatively
            good shape, but the Jag had to be replaced mostly due to bad
            work performed earlier.  The old wood, mahogany and obeche,
            especially the obeche colors gets muddled over time and no
            longer displays the original contrasting colors, but can
            still look nice as an obviously old and original rim.</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>I do not use chemicals for stripping rims, I use a very
            sharp razor as a scraping tool, being careful to scrape in
            the angle of the grain not to damage – you can feel it, but
            laminates will have grain going in multiple directions, so
            care is needed.  Only after fully removing the finish will I
            do any amount of sanding, and never so much as to remove
            much wood. I do most of the sanding by spinning the wheel on
            a lathe, but obviously not the rear where the grips appear.
            In this case with the Healey version, we went through more
            heroic efforts to save the wood. It was scrubbed with a
            toothbrush using ammonia and then bleach two times. Still,
            the colors were muddled, but better. After neutralizing the
            cleaners and sanding again just to smooth any raised grain,
            it was given the new finish. I have read that the original
            finishing was french polish, or at least at some point in
            time (Derrington, not necessarily Moto-Lita).  While you can
            select whatever method you are comfortable or desire, I use
            a UV cure clear finish. Over the years I’ve used a number of
            finishes, but for the amount of work I do now I have moved
            to this UV system which I find to be excellent in every way.
            I would also recommend Waterlox at least for a sealer if not
            topcoat also. It is a wipe on tung and resin mix. I have
            also used General Finishes water based (only after the
            Waterlox seal) Enduro-Var gloss. It can only be applied
            after the sealer has dried fully. It typically took five
            coats with sanding in between. It dries quickly and feels
            great when done. I always polished the rim on the lathe
            after finishing to smooth out perfectly and give the desired
            amount of shine/sheen. </div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>This is the Victor Derrinton after all was done (UV
            cure), but prior to the metal being cleaned and final
            polishing:  <a moz-do-not-send="true"
              title="http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley"
              href="http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley">http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley</a></div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>Happy New Year</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>Mike Lempert</div>
          <div>Lempert Wheels</div>
          <div>‘56 BN2</div>
          <div>‘59 BN7</div>
          <div>‘60 Bugeye</div>
          <div> </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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</pre>
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      <p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
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