Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes

From: Andy Thorp <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2016 09:51:07 +0000 (UTC)

If these are the calipers in question then the reason for the problem is kind of obvious- there is no way of getting air out of one half as it has to flow downwards, then across the bottom pipe and up the other side. Any air stuck in the bores behind the pistons will stay trapped there. Reverse bleeding should clear it if the internal drillings are done sensibly.

https://www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937bf-2288-4027-a5ec-2e753aadac6f-3.jpg

Andy.
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 3/7/16, Simon Lachlan <[email-masked]> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes
 To: "'Healey List'" <[email-masked]>, "'Roger Grace'" <[email-masked]>
 Received: Sunday, 3 July, 2016, 8:17 PM
 
Bleeding brakes can drive you
 crazy.See the attached, from my BMC
 manual. It addresses the question rather neatly, suggesting
 that air may be drawn in at the end of the downward push;
 for example, the threads on the bleeders may be slightly
 worn.The trick is to close the bleeder
 100% before the downward stroke ie, most important, while
 fluid is still coming out.A device such as A Gunson’s
 Eezibleed will mange that OK.The pdf’s first line may seem a
 little strange......it’s a note addressed to myself. The
 relevant paragraph is not in my pdf version of the manual
 for some reason so I added it as a reminder.Good luck,Simon 
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From: "Roger Grace" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2016 10:31:16 -0700

Yes these are the beasts. Thanks for that Andy and to all for numerous
ideas.
Yes, and given all the bleeding have done it hopefully is the issue.
This morning I took 3/4 of a jam jar (almost a reservoir) of fluid out of
each wheel; minimal air came out using a vacuum pump.
Some minor improvement and pedal now about an inch from floor on first pump
and car is ... maybe driveable.
As I don't have a helper have to use this technique; it took but 10 mins to 
bleed when I recently changed out my booster; have also ordered some
Russell Speed Bleeders.

Not quite sure how to address this reverse bleeding procedure that Andy
suggests.
I have a vacuum pump that have been using to bleed with and it does not
involve any pedal pumping.
Was thinking of trying to suck from the booster bleeder, from each calliper 
in turn -
any thoughts ?

Tkx
rg

-----Original Message----- 
From: Andy Thorp
Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2016 2:51 AM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes

If these are the calipers in question then the reason for the problem is
kind of obvious- there is no way of getting air out of one half as it has to
flow downwards, then across the bottom pipe and up the other side. Any air
stuck in the bores behind the pistons will stay trapped there. Reverse
bleeding should clear it if the internal drillings are done sensibly.

Andy.

Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes
To: "'Healey List'" <[email-masked]>, "'Roger Grace'"
<[email-masked]>
Received: Sunday, 3 July, 2016, 8:17 PM

[email-masked]

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6201 / Virus Database: 4613/12545 - Release Date: 07/02/16 

[email-masked]

---

From: "Peter & Veronica" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2016 06:31:28 +1000

...once you have some sort of pedal try jamming the pedal down hard 
overnight or for longer if possible. This certainly works to improve the 
pedal on BN1 brakes, especially if you do it a number of times.

Peter

-----Original Message----- 
From: Roger Grace
Sent: Monday, July 4, 2016 3:31 AM
To: Andy Thorp ; 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes

Tkx
rg

[email-masked]

---

From: "Roger Grace" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2016 14:12:07 -0700

Hip hip my attempts to reverse bleed seems to have worked.
Phew - you live and learn
Not perfect yet but certainly driveable; gives me a chance to assemble some 
bits to complete the reverse bleed procedure a bit better.
Many Tkx to all.
rg

-----Original Message----- 
From: Peter & Veronica
Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2016 1:31 PM
To: Roger Grace ; Andy Thorp ; 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes

Peter

-----Original Message----- 
From: Roger Grace
Sent: Monday, July 4, 2016 3:31 AM
To: Andy Thorp ; 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes

Tkx
rg

-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6201 / Virus Database: 4613/12549 - Release Date: 07/03/16 

[email-masked]

---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2016 22:22:04 -0400

--===============4743211882594375071==

--001a11405ffa799f280536da1ec8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Have to agree with Andy,
Although one cannot see exactly where the cross over pipe runs it "shuold
run from the top of the first side to the bottom of the second side
otherwise as Andy pointed out there would be no way to eliminate the air
from the first (brake hose) side.
Michael S

On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 1:31 PM, Roger Grace <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Some minor improvement and pedal now about an inch from floor on first pu=
mp
> As I don't have a helper have to use this technique; it took but 10 mins
> to bleed when I recently changed out my booster; have also ordered some
> Russell Speed Bleeders.
>
> Was thinking of trying to suck from the booster bleeder, from each
> calliper in turn -
> any thoughts ?
>
> Tkx
> rg
>
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Andy Thorp
> flow downwards, then across the bottom pipe and up the other side. Any ai=
r
> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937bf-2288-4027-a5e=
c-2e753aadac6f-3.jpg
> fluid is still coming out.A device such as A Gunson=E2=80=99s
> Eezibleed will mange that OK.The pdf=E2=80=99s first line may seem a
> little strange......it=E2=80=99s a note addressed to myself. The
> Version: 2015.0.6201 / Virus Database: 4613/12545 - Release Date: 07/02/1=
6
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--=20
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*

--001a11405ffa799f280536da1ec8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Have to agree with Andy,<br></div><div cl=
ass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-si=
ze:small">Although one cannot see exactly where the cross over pipe runs it=
 &quot;shuold run from the top of the first side to the bottom of the secon=
d side otherwise as Andy pointed out there would be no way to eliminate the=
 air from the first (brake hose) side.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default=
" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<=
br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sa=
ns-serif;font-size:small"><br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 1:31 PM, Roger Grace <span =
dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">rog=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Yes=
 these are the beasts. Thanks for that Andy and to all for numerous<br>
ideas.<br>
Yes, and given all the bleeding have done it hopefully is the issue.<br>
This morning I took 3/4 of a jam jar (almost a reservoir) of fluid out of<b=
r>
each wheel; minimal air came out using a vacuum pump.<br>
Some minor improvement and pedal now about an inch from floor on first pump=
<br>
and car is ... maybe driveable.<br>
As I don&#39;t have a helper have to use this technique; it took but 10 min=
s to bleed when I recently changed out my booster; have also ordered some<b=
r>
Russell Speed Bleeders.<br>
<br>
Not quite sure how to address this reverse bleeding procedure that Andy<br>
suggests.<br>
I have a vacuum pump that have been using to bleed with and it does not<br>
involve any pedal pumping.<br>
Was thinking of trying to suck from the booster bleeder, from each calliper=
 in turn -<br>
any thoughts ?<br>
<br>
Tkx<br>
rg<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message----- From: Andy Thorp<br>
Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2016 2:51 AM<br>
To: &#39;Healey List&#39;<span class=3D""><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes<br>
<br></span>
If these are the calipers in question then the reason for the problem is<br=
kind of obvious- there is no way of getting air out of one half as it has t=
o<br>
flow downwards, then across the bottom pipe and up the other side. Any air<=
br>
stuck in the bores behind the pistons will stay trapped there. Reverse<br>
bleeding should clear it if the internal drillings are done sensibly.<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"https://www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937bf-2288=
-4027-a5ec-2e753aadac6f-3.jpg" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">https:/=
/www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937bf-2288-4027-a5ec-2e753aa=
dac6f-3.jpg</a><br>
<br>
Andy.<br>
--------------------------------------------<span class=3D""><br>
On Sun, 3/7/16, Simon Lachlan &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.=
co.uk" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes<br></span>
To: &quot;&#39;Healey List&#39;&quot; &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
eam.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, &quot;&#39;Roger=
 Grace&#39;&quot;<br>
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">roggrace@telus.=
net</a>&gt;<br>
Received: Sunday, 3 July, 2016, 8:17 PM<span class=3D""><br>
<br>
Bleeding brakes can drive you<br></span>
crazy.See the attached, from my BMC<span class=3D""><br>
manual. It addresses the question rather neatly, suggesting<br>
that air may be drawn in at the end of the downward push;<br>
for example, the threads on the bleeders may be slightly<br></span>
worn.The trick is to close the bleeder<span class=3D""><br>
100% before the downward stroke ie, most important, while<br></span>
fluid is still coming out.A device such as A Gunson=E2=80=99s<br>
Eezibleed will mange that OK.The pdf=E2=80=99s first line may seem a<span c=
lass=3D""><br>
little strange......it=E2=80=99s a note addressed to myself. The<br>
relevant paragraph is not in my pdf version of the manual<br>
for some reason so I added it as a reminder.Good luck,Simon<br></span><span=
 class=3D"">
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
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"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
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eam.net</a><br>
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r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
</span><a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace@te=
lus.net" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman=
/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><span class=3D""><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----<br>
No virus found in this message.<br>
Checked by AVG - <a href=3D"http://www.avg.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">www.avg.com</a><br></span>
Version: 2015.0.6201 / Virus Database: 4613/12545 - Release Date: 07/02/16 =
<br><div class=3D"HOEnZb"><div class=3D"h5">
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
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"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
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eam.net</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</div></div></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=
=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><d=
iv><div dir=3D"ltr"><i><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"color:black">If you =
can&#39;t fix it with a hammer, you&#39;ve got an electrical problem.</span=
></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></di=
v>
</div>

--001a11405ffa799f280536da1ec8--

--===============4743211882594375071==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============4743211882594375071==--

---

From: "Roger Grace" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2016 13:45:09 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============3067880138102900312==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0059_01D1D6C3.72486950"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0059_01D1D6C3.72486950
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Michael,
Thank you
Yes agree, unfortunately this is not how they have built them.
Spoken at length with the manufacturer BCC in the UK. Of course they =
have =E2=80=9Cnever had this problem before=E2=80=9D. Evidently this is =
a sort of generic calliper design and used on numerous similar (minor =
mods for each marque) classic cars - Jags, Morgans, Triumphs etc. Also =
spoke to Rawles who have installed several - also with no problems.

Anyhow, decided to try to eliminate the trapped air now that I =
understood the problem much better.
Concocted some bits together, such that with my air supply, was able to =
feed brake fluid (no air bubbles) at about 5-10 psi into an open bleed =
valve at each calliper. Then also cracked open the pipe connection on =
the inside and let some fluid escape. This must have got rid of the =
trapped air (not able to see as too many bits to manage)  and the brake =
pedal is now right up where it should be. Phew what a saga ... !

Also after doing some digging about bleeding in general, there is a lot =
to be said for this =E2=80=9Creverse bleeding=E2=80=9D technique. It =
makes sense to try to force the air upwards instead of using fluid =
pressure downwards. I had not heard of it before and likely would have =
solved my issue. Lots of people swear by it and reverse bleeding kits =
are sold.=20

Many tkx
rg

From: Michael Salter=20
Sent: Monday, July 4, 2016 7:22 PM
To: Roger Grace=20
Cc: Andy Thorp ; Healey List=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes

Have to agree with Andy,

Although one cannot see exactly where the cross over pipe runs it =
"shuold run from the top of the first side to the bottom of the second =
side otherwise as Andy pointed out there would be no way to eliminate =
the air from the first (brake hose) side.

Michael S

  Yes these are the beasts. Thanks for that Andy and to all for numerous
  ideas.
  Yes, and given all the bleeding have done it hopefully is the issue.
  This morning I took 3/4 of a jam jar (almost a reservoir) of fluid out =
of
  each wheel; minimal air came out using a vacuum pump.
  Some minor improvement and pedal now about an inch from floor on first =
pump
  and car is ... maybe driveable.
  As I don't have a helper have to use this technique; it took but 10 =
mins to bleed when I recently changed out my booster; have also ordered =
some
  Russell Speed Bleeders.

  Not quite sure how to address this reverse bleeding procedure that =
Andy
  suggests.
  I have a vacuum pump that have been using to bleed with and it does =
not
  involve any pedal pumping.
  Was thinking of trying to suck from the booster bleeder, from each =
calliper in turn -
  any thoughts ?

  Tkx
  rg

  If these are the calipers in question then the reason for the problem =
is
  kind of obvious- there is no way of getting air out of one half as it =
has to
  flow downwards, then across the bottom pipe and up the other side. Any =
air
  stuck in the bores behind the pistons will stay trapped there. Reverse
  bleeding should clear it if the internal drillings are done sensibly.

  =

  Andy.

  [email-masked]

  Unsubscribe/Manage:

  -----
  No virus found in this message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 2015.0.6201 / Virus Database: 4613/12545 - Release Date: =
07/02/16=20

  [email-masked]

  Unsubscribe/Manage: =

--=20

If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6201 / Virus Database: 4613/12558 - Release Date: =
07/04/16

------=_NextPart_000_0059_01D1D6C3.72486950
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Comic Sans MS'; COLOR: =
#000000">
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Comic Sans MS'; COLOR: =
#000000">
<DIV>Michael,</DIV>
<DIV>Thank you</DIV>
<DIV>Yes agree, unfortunately this is not how they have built =
them.</DIV>
<DIV>Spoken at length with the manufacturer BCC in the UK. Of course =
they have=20
=E2=80=9Cnever had this problem before=E2=80=9D. Evidently this is a =
sort of generic calliper=20
design and used on numerous similar (minor mods for each marque) classic =
cars -=20
Jags, Morgans, Triumphs etc. Also spoke to Rawles who have installed =
several -=20
also with no problems.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Anyhow, decided to try to eliminate the trapped air now that I =
understood=20
the problem much better.</DIV>
<DIV>Concocted some bits together, such that with my air supply, was =
able to=20
feed brake fluid (no air bubbles) at about 5-10 psi into an open bleed =
valve at=20
each calliper. Then also cracked open the pipe connection on the inside =
and let=20
some fluid escape. This must have got rid of the trapped air (not able =
to see as=20
too many bits to manage)&nbsp; and the brake pedal is now right up where =
it=20
should be. Phew what a saga ... !</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Also after doing some digging about bleeding in general, there is a =
lot to=20
be said for this =E2=80=9Creverse bleeding=E2=80=9D technique. It makes =
sense to try to force=20
the air upwards instead of using fluid pressure downwards. I had not =
heard of it=20
before and likely would have solved my issue. Lots of people swear by it =
and=20
reverse bleeding kits are sold. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Many tkx</DIV>
<DIV>rg</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'><FONT=20
size=3D3 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"></FONT></DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Michael Salter</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, July 4, 2016 7:22 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Roger Grace</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Andy Thorp</A> ; <A=20
title=[email-masked] =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Healey=20
List</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; FONT-FAMILY: comic sans ms,sans-serif">Have =
to agree=20
with Andy,<BR></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; FONT-FAMILY: comic sans =
ms,sans-serif">Although one=20
cannot see exactly where the cross over pipe runs it "shuold run from =
the top of=20
the first side to the bottom of the second side otherwise as Andy =
pointed out=20
there would be no way to eliminate the air from the first (brake hose)=20
side.<BR></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; FONT-FAMILY: comic sans =
ms,sans-serif">Michael=20
S<BR></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; FONT-FAMILY: comic sans =
ms,sans-serif">&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_extra>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 1:31 PM, Roger Grace =
<SPAN=20
dir=3Dltr>&lt;<A href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=20
target=3D_blank>[email-masked]</A>&gt;</SPAN> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px =
0px 0.8ex">Yes=20
  these are the beasts. Thanks for that Andy and to all for=20
  numerous<BR>ideas.<BR>Yes, and given all the bleeding have done it =
hopefully=20
  is the issue.<BR>This morning I took 3/4 of a jam jar (almost a =
reservoir) of=20
  fluid out of<BR>each wheel; minimal air came out using a vacuum =
pump.<BR>Some=20
  minor improvement and pedal now about an inch from floor on first =
pump<BR>and=20
  car is ... maybe driveable.<BR>As I don't have a helper have to use =
this=20
  technique; it took but 10 mins to bleed when I recently changed out my =

  booster; have also ordered some<BR>Russell Speed Bleeders.<BR><BR>Not =
quite=20
  sure how to address this reverse bleeding procedure that=20
  Andy<BR>suggests.<BR>I have a vacuum pump that have been using to =
bleed with=20
  and it does not<BR>involve any pedal pumping.<BR>Was thinking of =
trying to=20
  suck from the booster bleeder, from each calliper in turn -<BR>any =
thoughts=20
  ?<BR><BR>Tkx<BR>rg<BR><BR><BR><BR>-----Original Message----- From: =
Andy=20
  Thorp<BR>Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2016 2:51 AM<BR>To: 'Healey=20
  List'<SPAN><BR>Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes<BR><BR></SPAN>If =
these are=20
  the calipers in question then the reason for the problem is<BR>kind of =

  obvious- there is no way of getting air out of one half as it has =
to<BR>flow=20
  downwards, then across the bottom pipe and up the other side. Any =
air<BR>stuck=20
  in the bores behind the pistons will stay trapped there. =
Reverse<BR>bleeding=20
  should clear it if the internal drillings are done sensibly.<BR><BR><A =

  =
href=3D"https://www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937bf-2288-=
4027-a5ec-2e753aadac6f-3.jpg"=20
  rel=3Dnoreferrer=20
  =
target=3D_blank>https://www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937=
bf-2288-4027-a5ec-2e753aadac6f-3.jpg</A><BR><BR>Andy.<BR>----------------=
----------------------------<SPAN><BR>On=20
  Sun, 3/7/16, Simon Lachlan &lt;<A =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=20
  target=3D_blank>[email-masked]</A>&gt; =
wrote:<BR><BR>Subject: Re:=20
  [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes<BR></SPAN>To: "'Healey List'" &lt;<A=20
  href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=20
  target=3D_blank>[email-masked]</A>&gt;, "'Roger =
Grace'"<BR>&lt;<A=20
  href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=20
  target=3D_blank>[email-masked]</A>&gt;<BR>Received: Sunday, 3 =
July, 2016,=20
  8:17 PM<SPAN><BR><BR>Bleeding brakes can drive you<BR></SPAN>crazy.See =
the=20
  attached, from my BMC<SPAN><BR>manual. It addresses the question =
rather=20
  neatly, suggesting<BR>that air may be drawn in at the end of the =
downward=20
  push;<BR>for example, the threads on the bleeders may be=20
  slightly<BR></SPAN>worn.The trick is to close the =
bleeder<SPAN><BR>100% before=20
  the downward stroke ie, most important, while<BR></SPAN>fluid is still =
coming=20
  out.A device such as A Gunson=E2=80=99s<BR>Eezibleed will mange that =
OK.The pdf=E2=80=99s=20
  first line may seem a<SPAN><BR>little strange......it=E2=80=99s a note =
addressed to=20
  myself. The<BR>relevant paragraph is not in my pdf version of the=20
  manual<BR>for some reason so I added it as a reminder.Good=20
  =
luck,Simon<BR></SPAN><SPAN>______________________________________________=
_<BR>Support=20
  Team.Net <A href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3Dnoreferrer=20
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  href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=20
  target=3D_blank>[email-masked]</A><BR><A=20
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>Unsubscribe/Manage:<BR></SPAN><A=20
  =
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  =
target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace@te=
lus.net</A><SPAN><BR><BR><BR><BR>-----<BR>No=20
  virus found in this message.<BR>Checked by AVG - <A =
href=3D"http://www.avg.com"=20
  rel=3Dnoreferrer target=3D_blank>www.avg.com</A><BR></SPAN>Version: =
2015.0.6201 /=20
  Virus Database: 4613/12545 - Release Date: 07/02/16 <BR>
  <DIV class=3DHOEnZb>
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clear=3Dall><BR>-- <BR>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_signature data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature">
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr><I><FONT size=3D2><SPAN style=3D"COLOR: black">If you =
can't fix it with=20
a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</SPAN></FONT></I><BR><BR>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV><A></A>
<P align=3Dleft color=3D"#000000" avgcert??>No virus found in this=20
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Database: 4613/12558 - Release Date:=20
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[email-masked]

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---

From: David Porter <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2016 10:52:05 -0600

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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In that case one can (should?) bleed the the hard pipe side as well (if 
it isn't rusted permanently shut).

Having said that... if the calipers were properly bled, there would not 
be sufficient air remaining to still allow the pedal to go to the floor. 
Rodger stated that the pedal was good on the second stroke, so I'm going 
to say that the rear are simply having to travel too far to contact the 
drum on the first push.. or like wise the front pads are worn to paper 
thin as well or a combination of the two. Secondly, I would also crack 
the lines into the booster if fitted and bleed there too.

DaveP

On 7/4/2016 8:22 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Have to agree with Andy,
> Although one cannot see exactly where the cross over pipe runs it 
> "shuold run from the top of the first side to the bottom of the second 
> side otherwise as Andy pointed out there would be no way to eliminate 
> On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 1:31 PM, Roger Grace <[email-masked] 
>
>     As I don't have a helper have to use this technique; it took but
>     10 mins to bleed when I recently changed out my booster; have also
>     ordered some
>     Russell Speed Bleeders.
>
>     On Sun, 3/7/16, Simon Lachlan <[email-masked]
>
>     To: "'Healey List'" <[email-masked]
>     Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> -- 
> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

--------------D96BFD5158CD352EB74BED56
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    <p>In that case one can (should?) bleed the the hard pipe side as
      well (if it isn't rusted permanently shut).</p>
    <p>Having said that... if the calipers were properly bled, there
      would not be sufficient air remaining to still allow the pedal to
      go to the floor. Rodger stated that the pedal was good on the
      second stroke, so I'm going to say that the rear are simply having
      to travel too far to contact the drum on the first push.. or like
      wise the front pads are worn to paper thin as well or a
      combination of the two. Secondly, I would also crack the lines
      into the booster if fitted and bleed there too.</p>
    <p>DaveP<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/4/2016 8:22 PM, Michael Salter
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:CAB3i7L+8D0XcMa6ot=sfNGWEFOL=[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
          ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Have to agree with Andy,<br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
          ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Although one cannot see exactly
          where the cross over pipe runs it "shuold run from the top of
          the first side to the bottom of the second side otherwise as
          Andy pointed out there would be no way to eliminate the air
          from the first (brake hose) side.<br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
          ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
          ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 1:31 PM, Roger
          Grace <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span>
          wrote:<br>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
            .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Yes these
            are the beasts. Thanks for that Andy and to all for numerous<br>
            ideas.<br>
            Yes, and given all the bleeding have done it hopefully is
            the issue.<br>
            This morning I took 3/4 of a jam jar (almost a reservoir) of
            fluid out of<br>
            each wheel; minimal air came out using a vacuum pump.<br>
            Some minor improvement and pedal now about an inch from
            floor on first pump<br>
            and car is ... maybe driveable.<br>
            As I don't have a helper have to use this technique; it took
            but 10 mins to bleed when I recently changed out my booster;
            have also ordered some<br>
            Russell Speed Bleeders.<br>
            <br>
            Not quite sure how to address this reverse bleeding
            procedure that Andy<br>
            suggests.<br>
            I have a vacuum pump that have been using to bleed with and
            it does not<br>
            involve any pedal pumping.<br>
            Was thinking of trying to suck from the booster bleeder,
            from each calliper in turn -<br>
            any thoughts ?<br>
            <br>
            Tkx<br>
            rg<br>
            <br>
            <br>
            <br>
            -----Original Message----- From: Andy Thorp<br>
            Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2016 2:51 AM<br>
            To: 'Healey List'<span class=""><br>
              Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes<br>
              <br>
            </span>
            If these are the calipers in question then the reason for
            the problem is<br>
            kind of obvious- there is no way of getting air out of one
            half as it has to<br>
            flow downwards, then across the bottom pipe and up the other
            side. Any air<br>
            stuck in the bores behind the pistons will stay trapped
            there. Reverse<br>
            bleeding should clear it if the internal drillings are done
            sensibly.<br>
            <br>
            <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937bf-2288-4027-a5ec-2e753aadac6f-3.jpg"
              rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937bf-2288-4027-a5ec-2e753aadac6f-3.jpg</a><br>
            <br>
            Andy.<br>
            --------------------------------------------<span class=""><br>
              On Sun, 3/7/16, Simon Lachlan &lt;<a
                moz-do-not-send="true"
                href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                target="_blank"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></a>&gt;
              wrote:<br>
              <br>
              Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes<br>
            </span>
            To: "'Healey List'" &lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;,
            "'Roger Grace'"<br>
            &lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
            Received: Sunday, 3 July, 2016, 8:17 PM<span class=""><br>
              <br>
              Bleeding brakes can drive you<br>
            </span>
            crazy.See the attached, from my BMC<span class=""><br>
              manual. It addresses the question rather neatly,
              suggesting<br>
              that air may be drawn in at the end of the downward push;<br>
              for example, the threads on the bleeders may be slightly<br>
            </span>
            worn.The trick is to close the bleeder<span class=""><br>
              100% before the downward stroke ie, most important, while<br>
            </span>
            fluid is still coming out.A device such as A Gunson’s<br>
            Eezibleed will mange that OK.The pdf’s first line may seem a<span
              class=""><br>
              little strange......it’s a note addressed to myself. The<br>
              relevant paragraph is not in my pdf version of the manual<br>
              for some reason so I added it as a reminder.Good
              luck,Simon<br>
            </span><span class="">
              _______________________________________________<br>
              Support Team.Net <a moz-do-not-send="true"
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              -----<br>
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              Checked by AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
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          </blockquote>
        </div>
        <br>
        <br clear="all">
        <br>
        -- <br>
        <div class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature">
          <div dir="ltr">
            <div>
              <div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span style="color:black">If
                      you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an
                      electrical problem.</span></font></i><br>
                <br>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
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</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
      Dave Porter
      Porter Custom Bicycles
      2909 Arno St. NE
      Albuquerque, NM 87107
      505-352-1378
      Go HERE: my world <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.porterbikes.com/">www.porterbikes.com/</a>
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---

From: "Charlie Schott" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2016 18:33:29 -0500

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Would someone please tell me how the wiring harness is routed on a late =
BJ8 going from the firewall to the rear of the car. I=E2=80=99m =
particularly interested in knowing where the harness crosses over to the =
right side of the car  for the fuel pump and then does it go straight =
back or cross back over to the right side? Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott
1960 BT7 but completing the restoration of a 1967 BJ8 for a club member=20

[email-masked]

-----

  [email-masked]

  Unsubscribe/Manage: =

--=20

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Would someone please tell me how the wiring harness is routed on a =
late BJ8=20
going from the firewall to the rear of the car. I=E2=80=99m particularly =
interested in=20
knowing where the harness crosses over to the right side of the =
car&nbsp; for=20
the fuel pump and then does it go straight back or cross back over to =
the right=20
side? Thanks.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Regards,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Charlie Schott</DIV>
<DIV>1960 BT7 but completing the restoration of a 1967 BJ8 for a club =
member=20
</DIV>
<DIV=20
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Virus Database: 4613/12545 - Release Date: 07/02/16 =
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<P align=3Dleft avgcert?? color=3D"#000000">No virus found in this=20
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href=3D"http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</A><BR>Version: 2015.0.6201 / =
Virus=20
Database: 4613/12558 - Release Date:=20
07/04/16</P></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>
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