Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fasteners

From: i erbs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2016 16:31:10 -0700

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I would not reuse Rod bolts. No opinion on the others.

Ira Erbs
1959 100-6
MKI engine and disc brakes
Portland,OR

On Sep 24, 2016 1:40 PM, "Bob Spidell" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Engine rebuild in progress; wondering which, if any, bolts and studs need
> to be replaced.  Car is a BJ8, with almost 200K miles and (at least) two
> engine rebuilds.  No issues besides low compression--attributed to leaky
> valves and rings--so, I'm wondering, can I reuse head and main studs, and
> rod bolts?  This will be a mostly stock rebuild, with a slightly hotter cam
> (DWR1).
>
> Not trying to pinch pennies, but don't want to overbuild, either.
> Thoughts?
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
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<p dir=3D"ltr">I would not reuse Rod bolts. No opinion on the others.</p>
<p dir=3D"ltr">Ira Erbs<br>
1959 100-6<br>
MKI engine and disc brakes<br>
Portland,OR</p>
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sep 24, 2016 1=
:40 PM, &quot;Bob Spidell&quot; &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br type=3D"attribution"><blockquote cl=
ass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;p=
adding-left:1ex">Engine rebuild in progress; wondering which, if any, bolts=
 and studs need to be replaced.=C2=A0 Car is a BJ8, with almost 200K miles =
and (at least) two engine rebuilds.=C2=A0 No issues besides low compression=
--attributed to leaky valves and rings--so, I&#39;m wondering, can I reuse =
head and main studs, and rod bolts?=C2=A0 This will be a mostly stock rebui=
ld, with a slightly hotter cam (DWR1).<br>
<br>
Not trying to pinch pennies, but don&#39;t want to overbuild, either.=C2=A0=
 Thoughts?<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
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</blockquote></div></div>

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From: Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2016 13:20:18 +1000

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Hi Bob,
The issue with Healey rod bolts with the silly pin setup is you can't just g=
o and buy better replacement modern fasteners like you can on e.g. a Sprite.=
 So you either find low mileage ones and test for stretch; buy new ones for $=
US 180 plus freight https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/Engi=
ne-6-Cylinder-ENG595-to-ENG680/BOLT-big-end.aspx or=20
Rework the rod to take a better, different bolt setup. Or buy aftermarket ro=
ds.=20
I used very low mileage sedan bolts 18 years ago because new ones weren't av=
ailable.=20
In your case Bill, I'd just buy new standard ones.=20
Main studs you can buy new ARP for $US 50 bucks, so that's a no brainer. Sam=
e with head studs - you just need to measure what you've got and find the eq=
uivelent ones on an ARP reseller website. About another $120 or so.=20
If an engine is on its 3rd rebuild, and has done 200k, I'd replace all the f=
asteners. They're probably too stretched. Another $300 odd now, will be chea=
p if an old one breaks....
 Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 25 Sep 2016, at 9:31 AM, i erbs <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>> Engine rebuild in progress; wondering which, if any, bolts and studs need=
 to be replaced.  Car is a BJ8, with almost 200K miles and (at least) two en=
gine rebuilds.  No issues besides low compression--attributed to leaky valve=
s and rings--so, I'm wondering, can I reuse head and main studs, and rod bol=
ts?  This will be a mostly stock rebuild, with a slightly hotter cam (DWR1).=

>>=20
>> Not trying to pinch pennies, but don't want to overbuild, either.  Though=
ts?
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Hi Bob,</div><div>The issue with Heale=
y rod bolts with the silly pin setup is you can't just go and buy better rep=
lacement modern fasteners like you can on e.g. a Sprite. So you either find l=
ow mileage ones and test for stretch; buy new ones for $US 180 plus freight <=
a href=3D"https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/Engine-6-Cylin=
der-ENG595-to-ENG680/BOLT-big-end.aspx">https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-he=
aley/big-healey/Engine-6-Cylinder-ENG595-to-ENG680/BOLT-big-end.aspx</a> or&=
nbsp;<br>Rework the rod to take a better, different bolt setup. Or buy after=
market rods.&nbsp;</div><div>I used very low mileage sedan bolts 18 years ag=
o because new ones weren't available.&nbsp;</div><div>In your case Bill, I'd=
 just buy new standard ones.&nbsp;</div><div>Main studs you can buy new ARP f=
or $US 50 bucks, so that's a no brainer. Same with head studs - you just nee=
d to measure what you've got and find the equivelent ones on an ARP reseller=
 website. About another $120 or so.&nbsp;</div><div>If an engine is on its 3=
rd rebuild, and has done 200k, I'd replace all the fasteners. They're probab=
ly too stretched. Another $300 odd now, will be cheap if an old one breaks..=
..</div><div>&nbsp;Best</div><div>Chris</div><div><br><div>Sent from my iPho=
ne</div></div><div><br>On 25 Sep 2016, at 9:31 AM, i erbs &lt;<a href=3D"mai=
lto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><bl=
ockquote type=3D"cite"><p dir=3D"ltr">I would not reuse Rod bolts. No opinio=
n on the others.</p>
<p dir=3D"ltr">Ira Erbs<br>
1959 100-6<br>
MKI engine and disc brakes<br>
Portland,OR</p>
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sep 24, 2016 1:=
40 PM, "Bob Spidell" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">bspidell@co=
mcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br type=3D"attribution"><blockquote class=3D"gmail_=
quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1e=
x">Engine rebuild in progress; wondering which, if any, bolts and studs need=
 to be replaced.&nbsp; Car is a BJ8, with almost 200K miles and (at least) t=
wo engine rebuilds.&nbsp; No issues besides low compression--attributed to l=
eaky valves and rings--so, I'm wondering, can I reuse head and main studs, a=
nd rod bolts?&nbsp; This will be a mostly stock rebuild, with a slightly hot=
ter cam (DWR1).<br>
<br>
Not trying to pinch pennies, but don't want to overbuild, either.&nbsp; Thou=
ghts?<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
<br>
Bob<br><br></blockquote></div></div></blockquote></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

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