From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Sun Jul 1 12:17:09 2018 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor) Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2018 12:17:09 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Happy Canada Day Hi all, I was having a great day in the car yesterday until the flange coupling at the end of the overdrive parted company with the overdrive. The castellated nut had backed off and when I hit a cattle guard too fast the impact jolted it off with a great noise of the prop shaft flopping around. So where was the cotter pin you ask. Hmmm?? Well the flange took some damage to the slots and the last couple of threads on the overdrive shaft took damage but otherwise all looks okay. Would anyone know the size and threads of the annulus shaft so I can find a dye to fix those threads. Cheers Ross -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Healey in the Rockies.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 799798 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: The culprit.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1053579 bytes Desc: not available URL: From alsemus1 at gmail.com Sun Jul 1 13:10:34 2018 From: alsemus1 at gmail.com (Albert Seminatore) Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2018 12:10:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable installation on a BT7 I have a 1960 Austin Healey BT that I want to install the original choke cable assembly. I have the trunion that mounts into the choke bracket (see page 41 of Moss). What I don't understand is what the inner trunion mounts to. Can anyone provide photos, or a clear description, of how this works? .................. Al -- Albert Seminatore Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jul 1 13:49:54 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2018 12:49:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Happy Canada Day References: <014501d41167$ba9d1f30$2fd75d90$@shaw.ca> Was just in there myself; now I know why that nut has to be torqued to 150lb-ft IIRC.? I don't see the large flat washer that goes under the nut, did you lose it? Can't help with the shaft/nut size; I remember thinking it looked very similar in size to the nuts on the front axle bearing shaft. If no one can supply the correct answer, you could use a caliper and one of these: *https://tinyurl.com/y9o8p449* *Bob * On 7/1/2018 11:17 AM, Ross Maylor wrote: > > Hi all, > > I was having a great day in the car yesterday until the flange > coupling at the end of the overdrive parted company with the > overdrive. The castellated nut had backed off and when I hit a cattle > guard too fast the impact ?jolted it off with a great noise of the > prop shaft flopping around. So where was the cotter pin you ask. > Hmmm?? Well the flange took some damage to the slots and the last > couple of threads on the overdrive shaft took damage but otherwise all > looks okay. > > Would anyone know the size and threads of the annulus shaft so I can > find a dye to fix those threads. > > Cheers > > Ross > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Jul 1 18:45:05 2018 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2018 20:45:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] snap crackle and pop When turning hard to the right (slow moving) I get a lot of these noises at the left front wheel area. Assume it is the tie rod? I first thought it was a loose spinner but that was not it. Any ideas?tom BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Sun Jul 1 20:41:31 2018 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2018 22:41:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] snap crackle and pop References: <841900627.207713265.1530492305062.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> If you've got wire wheels it's the spokes creaking a popping. If you do have wires, do you have rust bleeding from the nipples where they are attached to the rim? That is a sign that the nipples are moving and that is where the cracking and popping is comming from. Years ago my '67 BJ8 was doing that and I went to alloy wheels. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Tom Felts To: healeys Sent: Sun, Jul 1, 2018 8:55 pm Subject: [Healeys] snap crackle and pop When turning hard to the right (slow moving) I get a lot of these noises at the left front wheel area.? Assume it is the tie rod?? I first thought it was a loose spinner but that was not it.? Any ideas? tom? BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From tld6008 at mchsi.com Mon Jul 2 08:42:35 2018 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2018 10:42:35 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable installation on a BT7 See photo, all 5 trunion pieces are in the bracket hole securing the choke cable Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Albert Seminatore To: Healey List Sent: Sun, 01 Jul 2018 15:10:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable installation on a BT7 I have a 1960 Austin Healey BT that I want to install the original choke cable assembly. I have the trunion that mounts into the choke bracket (see page 41 of Moss). What I don't understand is what the inner trunion mounts to. Can anyone provide photos, or a clear description, of how this works?.................. Al -- Albert Seminatore Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: SAM_1403.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 264646 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Jul 2 09:04:53 2018 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2018 11:04:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] snap crackle and pop References: <841900627.207713265.1530492305062.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> OK----update. This morning pulled wheel/hub/bearings. bearings looked good. Did find some in/out movement when pulling on the hub. Right or wrong, I add a .003 spacer and really snugged the hub nut down. put back together and all was good--no more noise and everything is smooth.tom----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Felts To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 01 Jul 2018 20:45:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] snap crackle and pop body {height: 100%; color:#000000; font-size:12pt; font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;}When turning hard to the right (slow moving) I get a lot of these noises at the left front wheel area. Assume it is the tie rod? I first thought it was a loose spinner but that was not it. Any ideas?tom BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jul 2 09:41:25 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2018 08:41:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] snap crackle and pop References: <841900627.207713265.1530492305062.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> My thought: Wheel bearing(s). Bob On 7/1/2018 5:45 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > When turning hard to the right (slow moving) I get a lot of these > noises at the left front wheel area.? Assume it is the tie rod?? I > first thought it was a loose spinner but that was not it.? Any ideas? > tom? BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jul 2 10:46:05 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2018 09:46:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] snap crackle and pop References: <841900627.207713265.1530492305062.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> <736067316.1123571.1530543893398.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> If the end play was excessive--like, more than none--adding a 0.003" shim would make it 0.003" greater.? If the original end play you felt was due to a loose bearing retaining nut then tightening it is probably what fixed the problem. Bob On 7/2/2018 8:04 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > OK----update.? This morning pulled wheel/hub/bearings. bearings looked > good.? Did find some in/out movement when pulling on the hub.? Right > or wrong, I add a .003 spacer and really snugged the hub nut down.? > put back together and all was good--no more noise and everything is > smooth. > > tom > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Tom Felts > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, 01 Jul 2018 20:45:05 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: [Healeys] snap crackle and pop > > When turning hard to the right (slow moving) I get a lot of these > noises at the left front wheel area.? Assume it is the tie rod?? I > first thought it was a loose spinner but that was not it.? Any ideas? > tom? BJ8 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Mon Jul 2 15:37:14 2018 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2018 17:37:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door lock Hi all, The tumbler in my bj8 door lock came out when I was locking it. It easily slips back in but I need to make sure it stays in. How do I install it so that it doesn't come out when I'm on the road? Thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From chucknsueo at aol.com Mon Jul 2 19:16:19 2018 From: chucknsueo at aol.com (Chuck) Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2018 21:16:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door lock References: Tom, The same thing just recently happened to me. The bolt that goes through the latch bar had come undone from the lock tumbler. The lock tumbler is held in by the bolt that holds the the latch bar to the lock / latch button on the door handle mechanism. The order should be bolt, spring washer, flat washer, latch bar, nut, spring washer, lock tumbler. You have to take the inner door panel off and raise the window to get to the door latch mechanism. Without the bolt being secured in the back, the tumbler will still stay in, as long as you don?t put your key in it. Chuck Ott Middletown, DE, US BJ8, AN9 Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 2, 2018, at 5:37 PM, Tom wrote: > > Hi all, > > The tumbler in my bj8 door lock came out when I was locking it. It easily slips back in but I need to make sure it stays in. How do I install it so that it doesn't come out when I'm on the road? > > Thanks, Tom > ______________________________________________ > From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Jul 3 07:07:24 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 09:07:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Happy Birthday to Donald Healey As we remember the guy who baited the hook that caught al of us??. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Jul 3 09:00:46 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 08:00:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door lock References: There is a 10:32 hex head machine screw with a lock nut on the inside connecting the tumbler button assy to the latch. You will need to remove the door panel to re assemble. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Tom Sent: Monday, July 02, 2018 2:37 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door lock Hi all, The tumbler in my bj8 door lock came out when I was locking it. It easily slips back in but I need to make sure it stays in. How do I install it so that it doesn't come out when I'm on the road? Thanks, Tom -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Jul 3 16:40:15 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 18:40:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure All, Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil pressure and running too hot. Bearings were okay; the engine got a new oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and timing gears, chain and tensioner. Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately. So I was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the needle was sitting on the peg. No oil visible at the rocker arms either. I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by squirting oil the filter inlet passage. But it was already full. Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill motor? I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on dry bearings, etc.. Suggestions? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jul 3 17:24:34 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 23:24:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: Check your gauge.? Try putting a in line pressure gauge that is tested on your oil system before you start taking things apart again.Mike MacLean On Tuesday, July 3, 2018 4:18 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: All, Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil pressure and running too hot.? Bearings were okay; the engine got a new oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and timing gears, chain and tensioner. Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately.? So I was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the needle was sitting on the peg.? No oil visible at the rocker arms either. I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by squirting oil the filter inlet passage.? But it was already full. Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill motor? ? I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on dry bearings, etc.. Suggestions? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Jul 3 17:40:56 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 19:40:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: <1542461643.2373689.1530660274118@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, No oil at the rocker arms concerns me more than the gauge reading. The gauge was recently rebuilt by Nisonger's but you're right. I need to make sure it works. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/03/2018 07:24 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Check your gauge.? Try putting a in line pressure gauge that is tested > on your oil system before you start taking things apart again. > Mike MacLean > > > On Tuesday, July 3, 2018 4:18 PM, Bob Haskell > wrote: > > > All, > > Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil > pressure and running too hot.? Bearings were okay; the engine got a new > oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and timing > gears, chain and tensioner. > > Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately.? So I > was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the > needle was sitting on the peg.? No oil visible at the rocker arms either. > > I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by > squirting oil the filter inlet passage.? But it was already full. > > Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill motor? > ? I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on dry > bearings, etc.. > > Suggestions? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jul 3 17:42:49 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 18:42:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: Is soon on adaptors on correctly and not blocking feed holes? Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Tue, Jul 3, 2018, 6:24 PM Bob Haskell wrote: > All, > > Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil > pressure and running too hot. Bearings were okay; the engine got a new > oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and timing > gears, chain and tensioner. > > Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately. So I > was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the > needle was sitting on the peg. No oil visible at the rocker arms either. > > I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by > squirting oil the filter inlet passage. But it was already full. > > Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill motor? > I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on dry > bearings, etc.. > > Suggestions? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jul 3 17:51:18 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 23:51:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: <1542461643.2373689.1530660274118@mail.yahoo.com> <31b33c70-ab59-b9b1-0646-64fdbc90af09@earthlink.net> Oil pump?Mike On Tuesday, July 3, 2018 4:40 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: Mike, No oil at the rocker arms concerns me more than the gauge reading.? The gauge was recently rebuilt by Nisonger's but you're right.? I need to make sure it works. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/03/2018 07:24 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Check your gauge.? Try putting a in line pressure gauge that is tested > on your oil system before you start taking things apart again. > Mike MacLean > > > On Tuesday, July 3, 2018 4:18 PM, Bob Haskell > wrote: > > > All, > > Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil > pressure and running too hot.? Bearings were okay; the engine got a new > oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and timing > gears, chain and tensioner. > > Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately.? So I > was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the > needle was sitting on the peg.? No oil visible at the rocker arms either. > > I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by > squirting oil the filter inlet passage.? But it was already full. > > Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill motor? >? ? I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on dry > bearings, etc.. > > Suggestions? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Tue Jul 3 18:01:18 2018 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2018 10:01:18 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: <1542461643.2373689.1530660274118@mail.yahoo.com> Bob, Is the adaptor for the spin-on filter on the correct way. That happened to me. The holes do not line up correctly if upside down. Worth checking. John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, 4 July 2018 9:25 AM To: Bob Haskell; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] no oil pressure Check your gauge. Try putting a in line pressure gauge that is tested on your oil system before you start taking things apart again. Mike MacLean On Tuesday, July 3, 2018 4:18 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: All, Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil pressure and running too hot. Bearings were okay; the engine got a new oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and timing gears, chain and tensioner. Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately. So I was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the needle was sitting on the peg. No oil visible at the rocker arms either. I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by squirting oil the filter inlet passage. But it was already full. Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill motor? I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on dry bearings, etc.. Suggestions? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jul 3 18:18:33 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 17:18:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: Is the spin-on filter adapter installed correctly? When my dad restored a '34 Ford 3-Window coupe, he had no oil pressure on initial startup.? He pulled the engine, and went completely through it again; he found that he'd left one of the gaskets off the oil pump. Bob On 7/3/2018 3:40 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > All, > > Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil > pressure and running too hot.? Bearings were okay; the engine got a > new oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and > timing gears, chain and tensioner. > > Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately. So I > was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw > the needle was sitting on the peg.? No oil visible at the rocker arms > either. > > I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump > by squirting oil the filter inlet passage.? But it was already full. > > Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill > motor? ?I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam > on dry bearings, etc.. > > Suggestions? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Jul 3 18:44:24 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 20:44:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: All, The pump does work. I typically fill the oil filter before installing it. I took the filter off and install a new one dry. Spun the engine on the starter for 20 seconds or so and removed the filter. It had oil in it. There was still pressure in the system and it "popped" as I loosened the filter. Still no oil pressure at the gauge or oil at the rocker arms. With the filter removed, I can stick a depth gauge about an inch into the engine block (both inlet and outlet). As installed, the filter inlet hole is at about 10 o'clock right now. I don't think that the adapter can be installed so just one hole blocked, but I'll remove it to confirm it's on correctly. It's easy enough to do. The oil path divides after leaving the filter, one to the rocker shaft and one to the main bearings. The gauge is on the latter. Not seeing oil on either path seems to point to the filter/adapter. Back to the garage. Thanks. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/03/2018 07:42 PM, i erbs wrote: > Is soon on adaptors on correctly and not blocking feed holes? > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Tue, Jul 3, 2018, 6:24 PM Bob Haskell > All, > > Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil > pressure and running too hot.? Bearings were okay; the engine got a new > oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and > timing > gears, chain and tensioner. > > Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately.? So I > was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the > needle was sitting on the peg.? No oil visible at the rocker arms > either. > > I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by > squirting oil the filter inlet passage.? But it was already full. > > Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill > motor? > ? I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on > dry > bearings, etc.. > > Suggestions? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > From ynotink at msn.com Tue Jul 3 19:07:03 2018 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2018 01:07:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: , I think Ira had a run in with autocorrect. As I interpret he is asking, and I concur, whether the spin on oil filter adapter is installed correctly. If it is turned 180 degrees it will block all flow to the oil filter and every thing downstream. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of i erbs Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2018 11:42:49 PM To: Bob Haskell Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] no oil pressure Is soon on adaptors on correctly and not blocking feed holes? Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone All, Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil pressure and running too hot. Bearings were okay; the engine got a new oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and timing gears, chain and tensioner. Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately. So I was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the needle was sitting on the peg. No oil visible at the rocker arms either. I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by squirting oil the filter inlet passage. But it was already full. Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill motor? I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on dry bearings, etc.. Suggestions? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Jul 3 19:44:28 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 21:44:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: The spin-on adapter was/is installed correctly. I removed the oil pressure line at back of the gauge and spun the engine - no oil. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/03/2018 09:07 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > I think Ira had a run in with autocorrect. As I interpret he is asking, > and I concur, whether the spin on oil filter adapter is installed > correctly. If it is turned 180 degrees it will block all flow?to the oil > filter and?every thing downstream. > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of i erbs > > *Sent:* Tuesday, July 3, 2018 11:42:49 PM > *To:* Bob Haskell > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] no oil pressure > Is soon on adaptors on correctly and not blocking feed holes? > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Tue, Jul 3, 2018, 6:24 PM Bob Haskell > All, > > Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil > pressure and running too hot.? Bearings were okay; the engine got a new > oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and > timing > gears, chain and tensioner. > > Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately.? So I > was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the > needle was sitting on the peg.? No oil visible at the rocker arms > either. > > I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by > squirting oil the filter inlet passage.? But it was already full. > > Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill > motor? > ? I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on > dry > bearings, etc.. > > Suggestions? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jul 3 20:54:41 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 19:54:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Happy Birthday Donald Healey! References: Got this from AH Spares today. NFI. Bob -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: Happy Birthday Donald Healey! Date: 4 Jul 2018 01:48:58 +0100 From: newsletter at ahspares.co.uk To: bspidell at comcast.net Happy Birthday Donald Healey Happy Birthday to the one and only Donald Healey who would be 120 today. Donald Healey is of course the genius behind the creation of the iconic Austin-Healey View Online A.H. Spares white logo Happy Birthday Donald Healey! Donald Healey speaking at the BBC. Photo credit: BBC *Happy Birthday to the one and only Donald Healey who would be 120 today!* Born in Perranporth in 1898, Donald Healey became a successful rally driver after winning the 1931 Monte Carlo Rally. The Austin-Healey name was formed in 1952 in a joint venture between the Austin division of the British Motor Corporation and the Donald Healey Motor Company after Donald Healey designed and built a singled "Healey 100" for the 1952 London Motor Show. Austin-Healey 100 It was under this partnership that the iconic Austin-Healey 100 or BN1 was manufactured, followed by the BN2, 100/S, BN4 (the first series with a six-cylinder engine), BN7, BT7, BJ7 and BJ8 models. Fred Draper in the early years of A.H. Spares. Our founder, Fred Draper was the Parts Manager at the Donald Healey Motor Company during the time the Austin-Healey marque was produced, before he left in 1969 to form A.H. Spares Ltd. *BBC article commemorating Donald Healey:* Read Now Buy Your Austin-Healey Spares Online If you're looking for quality Austin-Healey spares for your own restoration project, check our website www.ahspares.co.uk or email us at sales at ahspares.co.uk Buy *Austin-Healey* Spares | Buy *Frogeye/Sprite* Spares | Buy *Performance* Parts Connect With Us: Contact Us: *Facebook* *Twitter* *Instagram* *Phone: 0044 (0)1926 817181* Units 7 & 8 Westfield Road Kineton Road Industrial Estate Southam, Warwickshire CV47 0JH ? 2018 A.H. Spares Ltd Unsubscribe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Tue Jul 3 21:46:27 2018 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 21:46:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: Bob Something you indicated in your note seemed odd to me. That being the filter ?popped? when you loosened it. This is not something I have encountered before; is it normal? If not normal, something seems plugged downstream of the filter allowing pressure to build-up and stay in the oil system. If the oil galleries diverge immediately downstream of the filter, the culprit is most likely in the immediate vicinity of the filter. The first thing would be to check the spin-on filter adapter as others have suggested. Bob England > On Jul 3, 2018, at 6:44 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > All, > > The pump does work. I typically fill the oil filter before installing it. I took the filter off and install a new one dry. Spun the engine on the starter for 20 seconds or so and removed the filter. It had oil in it. There was still pressure in the system and it "popped" as I loosened the filter. > > Still no oil pressure at the gauge or oil at the rocker arms. > > With the filter removed, I can stick a depth gauge about an inch into the engine block (both inlet and outlet). As installed, the filter inlet hole is at about 10 o'clock right now. I don't think that the adapter can be installed so just one hole blocked, but I'll remove it to confirm it's on correctly. It's easy enough to do. > > The oil path divides after leaving the filter, one to the rocker shaft and one to the main bearings. The gauge is on the latter. Not seeing oil on either path seems to point to the filter/adapter. > > Back to the garage. > > Thanks. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >> On 07/03/2018 07:42 PM, i erbs wrote: >> Is soon on adaptors on correctly and not blocking feed holes? >> Ira Erbs >> Portland, OR >> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone >> All, >> Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil >> pressure and running too hot. Bearings were okay; the engine got a new >> oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and >> timing >> gears, chain and tensioner. >> Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately. So I >> was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the >> needle was sitting on the peg. No oil visible at the rocker arms >> either. >> I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by >> squirting oil the filter inlet passage. But it was already full. >> Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill >> motor? >> I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on >> dry >> bearings, etc.. >> Suggestions? >> Cheers, >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl at accesscomm.ca > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jul 3 22:33:44 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2018 23:33:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: Phone auto correct. Was riding a bus and had to get off at my stop...thanks for ok interpreting my gibberish. ;) Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Tue, Jul 3, 2018, 8:07 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > I think Ira had a run in with autocorrect. As I interpret he is asking, > and I concur, whether the spin on oil filter adapter is installed > correctly. If it is turned 180 degrees it will block all flow to the oil > filter and every thing downstream. > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of i erbs < > eyera3000 at gmail.com> > *Sent:* Tuesday, July 3, 2018 11:42:49 PM > *To:* Bob Haskell > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] no oil pressure > > Is soon on adaptors on correctly and not blocking feed holes? > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Tue, Jul 3, 2018, 6:24 PM Bob Haskell wrote: > > All, > > Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil > pressure and running too hot. Bearings were okay; the engine got a new > oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and timing > gears, chain and tensioner. > > Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately. So I > was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the > needle was sitting on the peg. No oil visible at the rocker arms either. > > I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by > squirting oil the filter inlet passage. But it was already full. > > Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill motor? > I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on dry > bearings, etc.. > > Suggestions? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Jul 4 15:18:43 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2018 17:18:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: <780B74D4-F66A-4D2F-B964-30A502A8AAA4@accesscomm.ca> All, To paraphrase a summer saying: "It's not the heat, it's the stupidity". The spin-on adapter was upside down. It now has "TOP" stamped on it, in an attempt to save me from myself in the future. When in doubt, read the instructions. I have a couple of extra adapters (with instructions) that I bought at Jack Summer's estate sale. The 1/2" drilling between the two counterbored holes goes at the bottom. Thanks Jack. Oil pressure is about 60 psi cold. I guess 90 degrees is considered cold. Thanks for all your assistance. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/03/2018 11:46 PM, Engl wrote: > Bob > > Something you indicated in your note seemed odd to me. That being the filter ?popped? when you loosened it. This is not something I have encountered before; is it normal? If not normal, something seems plugged downstream of the filter allowing pressure to build-up and stay in the oil system. If the oil galleries diverge immediately downstream of the filter, the culprit is most likely in the immediate vicinity of the filter. The first thing would be to check the spin-on filter adapter as others have suggested. > > Bob England > >> On Jul 3, 2018, at 6:44 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: >> >> All, >> >> The pump does work. I typically fill the oil filter before installing it. I took the filter off and install a new one dry. Spun the engine on the starter for 20 seconds or so and removed the filter. It had oil in it. There was still pressure in the system and it "popped" as I loosened the filter. >> >> Still no oil pressure at the gauge or oil at the rocker arms. >> >> With the filter removed, I can stick a depth gauge about an inch into the engine block (both inlet and outlet). As installed, the filter inlet hole is at about 10 o'clock right now. I don't think that the adapter can be installed so just one hole blocked, but I'll remove it to confirm it's on correctly. It's easy enough to do. >> >> The oil path divides after leaving the filter, one to the rocker shaft and one to the main bearings. The gauge is on the latter. Not seeing oil on either path seems to point to the filter/adapter. >> >> Back to the garage. >> >> Thanks. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >>> On 07/03/2018 07:42 PM, i erbs wrote: >>> Is soon on adaptors on correctly and not blocking feed holes? >>> Ira Erbs >>> Portland, OR >>> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone >>> All, >>> Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil >>> pressure and running too hot. Bearings were okay; the engine got a new >>> oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and >>> timing >>> gears, chain and tensioner. >>> Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately. So I >>> was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the >>> needle was sitting on the peg. No oil visible at the rocker arms >>> either. >>> I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by >>> squirting oil the filter inlet passage. But it was already full. >>> Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill >>> motor? >>> I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on >>> dry >>> bearings, etc.. >>> Suggestions? >>> Cheers, >>> Bob Haskell >>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl at accesscomm.ca >> > > From engl at accesscomm.ca Wed Jul 4 15:47:02 2018 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2018 15:47:02 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: <780B74D4-F66A-4D2F-B964-30A502A8AAA4@accesscomm.ca> <896f4814-fd8d-3b87-e6e7-28b1d9648b2d@earthlink.net> Bob Glad you isolated the culprit. Happy trails! Bob England > On Jul 4, 2018, at 3:18 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > All, > > To paraphrase a summer saying: "It's not the heat, it's the stupidity". The spin-on adapter was upside down. It now has "TOP" stamped on it, in an attempt to save me from myself in the future. > > When in doubt, read the instructions. I have a couple of extra adapters (with instructions) that I bought at Jack Summer's estate sale. The 1/2" drilling between the two counterbored holes goes at the bottom. Thanks Jack. > > Oil pressure is about 60 psi cold. I guess 90 degrees is considered cold. > > Thanks for all your assistance. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >> On 07/03/2018 11:46 PM, Engl wrote: >> Bob >> Something you indicated in your note seemed odd to me. That being the filter ?popped? when you loosened it. This is not something I have encountered before; is it normal? If not normal, something seems plugged downstream of the filter allowing pressure to build-up and stay in the oil system. If the oil galleries diverge immediately downstream of the filter, the culprit is most likely in the immediate vicinity of the filter. The first thing would be to check the spin-on filter adapter as others have suggested. >> Bob England >>> On Jul 3, 2018, at 6:44 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: >>> >>> All, >>> >>> The pump does work. I typically fill the oil filter before installing it. I took the filter off and install a new one dry. Spun the engine on the starter for 20 seconds or so and removed the filter. It had oil in it. There was still pressure in the system and it "popped" as I loosened the filter. >>> >>> Still no oil pressure at the gauge or oil at the rocker arms. >>> >>> With the filter removed, I can stick a depth gauge about an inch into the engine block (both inlet and outlet). As installed, the filter inlet hole is at about 10 o'clock right now. I don't think that the adapter can be installed so just one hole blocked, but I'll remove it to confirm it's on correctly. It's easy enough to do. >>> >>> The oil path divides after leaving the filter, one to the rocker shaft and one to the main bearings. The gauge is on the latter. Not seeing oil on either path seems to point to the filter/adapter. >>> >>> Back to the garage. >>> >>> Thanks. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Bob Haskell >>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >>> >>>> On 07/03/2018 07:42 PM, i erbs wrote: >>>> Is soon on adaptors on correctly and not blocking feed holes? >>>> Ira Erbs >>>> Portland, OR >>>> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone >>>> All, >>>> Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil >>>> pressure and running too hot. Bearings were okay; the engine got a new >>>> oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and >>>> timing >>>> gears, chain and tensioner. >>>> Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately. So I >>>> was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and saw the >>>> needle was sitting on the peg. No oil visible at the rocker arms >>>> either. >>>> I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil pump by >>>> squirting oil the filter inlet passage. But it was already full. >>>> Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill >>>> motor? >>>> I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam on >>>> dry >>>> bearings, etc.. >>>> Suggestions? >>>> Cheers, >>>> Bob Haskell >>>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >>>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl at accesscomm.ca >>> From cbaustin at verizon.net Wed Jul 4 17:02:33 2018 From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum) Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2018 19:02:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: <780B74D4-F66A-4D2F-B964-30A502A8AAA4@accesscomm.ca> <896f4814-fd8d-3b87-e6e7-28b1d9648b2d@earthlink.net> ??? Bob, ??? While you are working on this situation, there is an additional test you can run. ??? Loosen the bolts on the adapter plate about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. ??? Start the car. If there are 3 to 4 quarts of oil on the garage floor before you can get the car shut off, your oil pump is working properly. ??? No need to thank me. ??? Regards, ??? ??? ??? CB --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Jul 4 18:14:38 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2018 19:14:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: <780B74D4-F66A-4D2F-B964-30A502A8AAA4@accesscomm.ca> <896f4814-fd8d-3b87-e6e7-28b1d9648b2d@earthlink.net> Great Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Wed, Jul 4, 2018, 5:10 PM Bob Haskell wrote: > All, > > To paraphrase a summer saying: "It's not the heat, it's the stupidity". > The spin-on adapter was upside down. It now has "TOP" stamped on it, in > an attempt to save me from myself in the future. > > When in doubt, read the instructions. I have a couple of extra adapters > (with instructions) that I bought at Jack Summer's estate sale. The > 1/2" drilling between the two counterbored holes goes at the bottom. > Thanks Jack. > > Oil pressure is about 60 psi cold. I guess 90 degrees is considered cold. > > Thanks for all your assistance. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 07/03/2018 11:46 PM, Engl wrote: > > Bob > > > > Something you indicated in your note seemed odd to me. That being the > filter ?popped? when you loosened it. This is not something I have > encountered before; is it normal? If not normal, something seems plugged > downstream of the filter allowing pressure to build-up and stay in the oil > system. If the oil galleries diverge immediately downstream of the filter, > the culprit is most likely in the immediate vicinity of the filter. The > first thing would be to check the spin-on filter adapter as others have > suggested. > > > > Bob England > > > >> On Jul 3, 2018, at 6:44 PM, Bob Haskell > wrote: > >> > >> All, > >> > >> The pump does work. I typically fill the oil filter before installing > it. I took the filter off and install a new one dry. Spun the engine on > the starter for 20 seconds or so and removed the filter. It had oil in > it. There was still pressure in the system and it "popped" as I loosened > the filter. > >> > >> Still no oil pressure at the gauge or oil at the rocker arms. > >> > >> With the filter removed, I can stick a depth gauge about an inch into > the engine block (both inlet and outlet). As installed, the filter inlet > hole is at about 10 o'clock right now. I don't think that the adapter can > be installed so just one hole blocked, but I'll remove it to confirm it's > on correctly. It's easy enough to do. > >> > >> The oil path divides after leaving the filter, one to the rocker shaft > and one to the main bearings. The gauge is on the latter. Not seeing oil > on either path seems to point to the filter/adapter. > >> > >> Back to the garage. > >> > >> Thanks. > >> > >> Cheers, > >> > >> Bob Haskell > >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >> > >>> On 07/03/2018 07:42 PM, i erbs wrote: > >>> Is soon on adaptors on correctly and not blocking feed holes? > >>> Ira Erbs > >>> Portland, OR > >>> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > >>> On Tue, Jul 3, 2018, 6:24 PM Bob Haskell >>> All, > >>> Pulled the engine out of our tri-carb last December due to low oil > >>> pressure and running too hot. Bearings were okay; the engine got > a new > >>> oil pump, rear main seal, pressure relief spring and plunger, and > >>> timing > >>> gears, chain and tensioner. > >>> Started the engine yesterday and it started almost immediately. > So I > >>> was really pleased until I looked at the oil pressure gauge and > saw the > >>> needle was sitting on the peg. No oil visible at the rocker arms > >>> either. > >>> I removed the spin on oil filter and attempted to prime the oil > pump by > >>> squirting oil the filter inlet passage. But it was already full. > >>> Can one remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill > >>> motor? > >>> I'd like to be able to test without spinning the crank and cam > on > >>> dry > >>> bearings, etc.. > >>> Suggestions? > >>> Cheers, > >>> Bob Haskell > >>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > >>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl at accesscomm.ca > >> > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Jul 4 18:29:59 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2018 20:29:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: <780B74D4-F66A-4D2F-B964-30A502A8AAA4@accesscomm.ca> <896f4814-fd8d-3b87-e6e7-28b1d9648b2d@earthlink.net> <0f654c87-0bc7-6c25-65de-e25c54d90b76@verizon.net> Charley, On our first major road trip to Conclave 2007 in Burlington VT, I was getting about 75 to 100 miles per quart of oil. The adapter was a tad loose. So the socket head c'screws get checked every oil change. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/04/2018 07:02 PM, Charley Braum wrote: > ??? Bob, > > ??? While you are working on this situation, there is an additional > test you can run. > > ??? Loosen the bolts on the adapter plate about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. > > ??? Start the car. If there are 3 to 4 quarts of oil on the garage > floor before you can get the car shut off, your oil pump is working > properly. > > ??? No need to thank me. > > ??? Regards, > ??? ??? ??? CB > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > https://www.avg.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jul 4 22:34:07 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2018 21:34:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] no oil pressure References: <780B74D4-F66A-4D2F-B964-30A502A8AAA4@accesscomm.ca> <896f4814-fd8d-3b87-e6e7-28b1d9648b2d@earthlink.net> <0f654c87-0bc7-6c25-65de-e25c54d90b76@verizon.net> <8c226817-badc-15fd-fe08-34dde1979b11@earthlink.net> "... So the socket head c'screws get checked every oil change." I've used blue threadlocker on the screws for over 100K miles without any loosening (the screws /could/ come loose between oil changes).? Same with shock bolts (though I usually have them out for some other reason every 50K or so).? Screws and threads should be damn clean before 'gluing' them in. Happened to read an article about the development of the Chevy Small Block.? One of its features was few, if any, external oil passages. Bob On 7/4/2018 5:29 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Charley, > > On our first major road trip to Conclave 2007 in Burlington VT, I was > getting about 75 to 100 miles per quart of oil.? The adapter was a tad > loose.? So the socket head c'screws get checked every oil change. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 07/04/2018 07:02 PM, Charley Braum wrote: >> ???? Bob, >> >> ???? While you are working on this situation, there is an additional >> test you can run. >> >> ???? Loosen the bolts on the adapter plate about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. >> >> ???? Start the car. If there are 3 to 4 quarts of oil on the garage >> floor before you can get the car shut off, your oil pump is working >> properly. >> >> ???? No need to thank me. >> >> ???? Regards, >> ???? ??? ??? CB >> >> --- >> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. >> https://www.avg.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Jul 5 05:21:12 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2018 11:21:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiper Motor Install References: <2099891787.3048799.1530789672455.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone have a picture of the wiper motor installed on a BN2?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Thu Jul 5 07:32:07 2018 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2018 09:32:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AC Compressor/Alternator Bracket Good morning. I am thinking about adding AC to my 67 BJ8. Living in Florida makes driving in the summer very challenging. Does anyone have a recommendation for shere I can buy the bracket for the Alternator and Compressor? Thank you in advance for your response. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidcooperman at yahoo.com Thu Jul 5 08:48:44 2018 From: davidcooperman at yahoo.com (david cooperman) Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2018 14:48:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Tires References: <780B74D4-F66A-4D2F-B964-30A502A8AAA4@accesscomm.ca> <896f4814-fd8d-3b87-e6e7-28b1d9648b2d@earthlink.net> <0f654c87-0bc7-6c25-65de-e25c54d90b76@verizon.net> <8c226817-badc-15fd-fe08-34dde1979b11@earthlink.net> <4d0bd366-b253-4d1a-32d7-68f27f51e3fb@comcast.net> It is time to replace the tires on my Austin Healey - BJ8 with wire wheels.? I am looking for some recommendations so any good advice is appreciated. Thanks, David? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Jul 5 13:36:47 2018 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2018 19:36:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler - Today we remember one of the most helpful guy from the List. Always ready to help with an answer and he had a way to explain something like you had the part in your hands. He left us six years ago today, still miss him. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jul 5 21:08:48 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2018 23:08:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler - References: Rest In Peace my old friend Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 5, 2018, at 3:36 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > Today we remember one of the most helpful guy from the List. Always ready to help with an answer and he had a way to explain something like you had the part in your hands. He left us six years ago today, still miss him. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jul 5 21:08:48 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2018 23:08:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler - References: Rest In Peace my old friend Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 5, 2018, at 3:36 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > Today we remember one of the most helpful guy from the List. Always ready to help with an answer and he had a way to explain something like you had the part in your hands. He left us six years ago today, still miss him. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jul 5 22:17:44 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2018 23:17:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler - References: Hard to image it's been six years. Visited his son in sooke, BC last year. Rich was a gem. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Thu, Jul 5, 2018, 10:15 PM Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > Today we remember one of the most helpful guy from the List. Always ready > to help with an answer and he had a way to explain something like you had > the part in your hands. He left us six years ago today, still miss him. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jul 5 22:33:09 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2018 21:33:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler - References: Hear! hear! On 7/5/2018 12:36 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > Today we remember one of the most helpful guy from the List. Always > ready to help with an answer and he had a way to explain something > like you had the part in your hands. He left us six years ago today, > still miss him. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Jul 7 18:34:05 2018 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 00:34:05 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Randy Hey, Give me a shout off the list, and yes, I misplaced you e-mail again!! Thanks. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Unbelievable German World War 2 Photo Shocks Americans pro.naturalhealthresponse.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5b415c589a5085c5820e5st03duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Sat Jul 7 21:57:28 2018 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 03:57:28 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Northwest vacay Can anyone give me some tips on where to go, what to see, and on any Healey or LBC activities in the Seattle area in the next couple weeks. I'll be in Anacortes on vacation for a few days. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jul 8 09:41:38 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 08:41:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Northwest vacay References: Lemay museum in Tacoma is a great car museum and they typically have lbcs there. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Sun, Jul 8, 2018, 12:25 AM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Can anyone give me some tips on where to go, what to see, and on any > Healey or LBC activities in the Seattle area in the next couple weeks. I'll > be in Anacortes on vacation for a few days. > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jul 8 09:42:54 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 08:42:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Northwest vacay References: Bill check out the Cascade Austin Healey Club Site. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Sun, Jul 8, 2018, 12:25 AM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Can anyone give me some tips on where to go, what to see, and on any > Healey or LBC activities in the Seattle area in the next couple weeks. I'll > be in Anacortes on vacation for a few days. > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Sun Jul 8 12:24:46 2018 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 14:24:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires References: <780B74D4-F66A-4D2F-B964-30A502A8AAA4@accesscomm.ca> <896f4814-fd8d-3b87-e6e7-28b1d9648b2d@earthlink.net> <0f654c87-0bc7-6c25-65de-e25c54d90b76@verizon.net> <8c226817-badc-15fd-fe08-34dde1979b11@earthlink.net> <4d0bd366-b253-4d1a-32d7-68f27f51e3fb@comcast.net> <1004040869.3078349.1530802124991@mail.yahoo.com> David ? I?d contact Allan Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheel. They will advise on tire choices, wheel choices, and they shave the tires so the assembly is round when you get it, too! Al Fuller '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of david cooperman Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 10:49 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires It is time to replace the tires on my Austin Healey - BJ8 with wire wheels. I am looking for some recommendations so any good advice is appreciated. Thanks, David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Mon Jul 9 14:18:08 2018 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2018 16:18:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 References: Or, if you don't want to spend the time and effort going through Hendrix -- though Allan's service is excellent -- You can search on tire rack for tires for a 1957 Volkswagen Karmann Ghia -- That will pop up Classic All-Season tires in a 16580R15T size for $82.85 per tire. which can be shipped in just a day or two to an installer in your area, though you'll need to find a a shop that can still mount and balance tires on wire wheels. Good luck, G,. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California ne so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Tires (Al Fuller) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 14:24:46 -0400 From: "Al Fuller" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires David ? I?d contact Allan Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheel. They will advise on tire choices, wheel choices, and they shave the tires so the assembly is round when you get it, too! Al Fuller '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of david cooperman Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 10:49 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires It is time to replace the tires on my Austin Healey - BJ8 with wire wheels. I am looking for some recommendations so any good advice is appreciated. Thanks, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Jul 9 16:14:19 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2018 18:14:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Steve Thomton's Rally Replica article Classic Motorsport's article on Steve Thomton's Rally Replica https://classicmotorsports.com/articles/hotrod-healey-austin-healey-3000-rally-replica/?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Hotrod+Healey%3A+An+Austin-Healey+3000+Rally+Replica&utm_campaign=CMSDaily Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Jul 9 19:22:11 2018 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2018 21:22:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 References: <16480b1b425-179f-12784@webjas-vaa149.srv.aolmail.net> Vredestines have been great tires for me on my BJ8. Then there is Universal out of Hershey Pa-----I run these on my E-Type-Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kags at shaw.ca Mon Jul 9 21:16:33 2018 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2018 20:16:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 References: <16480b1b425-179f-12784@webjas-vaa149.srv.aolmail.net> Al: I might advise you to have a look at the Longstone Tyre website ? they?re in the UK ? for the excellent information it contains. These guys are right up there in terms of tires for Healeys, as well as pretty much all other collectible cars: https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/ Like you, I am currently researching new tires for my BJ8. The Vredesteins ? 185 70 15 - supplied by Allan Hendrix awhile back are close to timing out. Gary is right, Allan is the only guy in North America to my knowledge that knows what he is doing. Figures ? he?s a Healey owner! I have driven a friend?s BJ8 equipped with the Michelin 180 75 15 XAS ? it?s an excellent tire for our Healeys. My only reservation is that of aesthetics - it is quite ?massive? looking in the wheel wells ? taller than the original Dunlop 590 15 tires that the factory supplied. On some restored Healeys, there may be clearance problems in the wheel well. Another friend here has installed the Michelin 165 15 XAS tire on his BJ7 (it?s an 80 series tire) and loves them, and they don?t look too bad on the car. The XAS is an excellent steering / handling tire in any size ? feels quite ?vintage? like ? much more nimble feeling that a lot of replacement tires for the big Healey. Be aware that all XAS?s must be run with tubes ? it?s just the way they are designed. When the time comes, (relatively soon now), I will probably go with these. Have fun! Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: editorgary at aol.com Sent: Monday, July 09, 2018 1:18 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 Or, if you don't want to spend the time and effort going through Hendrix -- though Allan's service is excellent -- You can search on tire rack for tires for a 1957 Volkswagen Karmann Ghia -- That will pop up Classic All-Season tires in a 16580R15T size for $82.85 per tire. which can be shipped in just a day or two to an installer in your area, though you'll need to find a a shop that can still mount and balance tires on wire wheels. Good luck, G,. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California ne so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Tires (Al Fuller) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 14:24:46 -0400 From: "Al Fuller" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires David ? I?d contact Allan Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheel. They will advise on tire choices, wheel choices, and they shave the tires so the assembly is round when you get it, too! Al Fuller '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net?] On Behalf Of david cooperman Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 10:49 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires It is time to replace the tires on my Austin Healey - BJ8 with wire wheels. I am looking for some recommendations so any good advice is appreciated. Thanks, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jul 10 10:45:14 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2018 09:45:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 References: <16480b1b425-179f-12784@webjas-vaa149.srv.aolmail.net> <1846127592.20228568.1531185731037.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> Last time I needed a set of Vreds, this place had the best price: http://tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRES/Vredestein/vred_sprint_classic.htm I called, but they only had 3 in stock because 'somebody'--TireRack probably--had bought the entire latest batch from Vred.? I ended up buying from TireRack. NFI Bob On 7/9/2018 6:22 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > Vredestines have been great tires for me on my BJ8.? Then there is > Universal out of Hershey Pa-----I run these on my E-Type- > Tom > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 10 11:43:11 2018 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (ROBERT BROWN) Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2018 13:43:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 References: <16480b1b425-179f-12784@webjas-vaa149.srv.aolmail.net> <1846127592.20228568.1531185731037.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> <95ea5f65-9d75-7f5b-2159-773c40f7a199@comcast.net> Http://www.tiresbyeeb.com I?ve gotten Verds from them several times last time I hit wrong size they caught it and called to check never would have expected that from a web company! Bob Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 10, 2018, at 12:45 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Last time I needed a set of Vreds, this place had the best price: > > http://tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRES/Vredestein/vred_sprint_classic.htm > > I called, but they only had 3 in stock because 'somebody'--TireRack probably--had bought the entire latest batch from Vred. I ended up buying from TireRack. > NFI > > Bob > >> On 7/9/2018 6:22 PM, Tom Felts wrote: >> Vredestines have been great tires for me on my BJ8. Then there is Universal out of Hershey Pa-----I run these on my E-Type- >> Tom >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/blkbt7 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Jul 10 13:54:13 2018 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2018 12:54:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 References: <16480b1b425-179f-12784@webjas-vaa149.srv.aolmail.net> <80D36CE6AE0F4204B75D70150CFDE490@KagsLaptop> Earl: I had been using Vredesteins since since 2003. During that time, I had two negative situations with them. The first had to do with a bad new tire that was causing a pull regardless which side it was mounted on. Looking at the tread, it was not consistently straight all the way around the tire. It was replaced without charge. The second had to do with the last set when one tire developed a large bubble on the side wall. Meanwhile, I replaced all wheels when one developed a wobble due to 5 loose and/or broken spokes. To my surprise, the replacement wheels were tubeless design. About 6,000 miles later, I decided to go with the Michelins. These tires are mounted on the tubeless wheels without tubes. Nobody told me that they had to have tubes. ;-( Now, about 7,000 miles later, the only problem I have had was a slow leak on one wheel. The problem was that the valve stem had loosened in the rim. A tightening of the securing nut on the valve stem solved the problem. A check of all the other wheels revealed that all the nuts had loosened slightly and needed a minor tweak to tighten them. So far, so good. Now, in addition to local tours between now and September, it's on to Rendezvous in Oregon. The next 1,000-plus miles down - up ? - the road. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 271,388 miles ----- Original Message ----- From: Earl Kagna To: editorgary at aol.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, July 09, 2018 8:16 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 ......... Be aware that all XAS?s must be run with tubes ? it?s just the way they are designed. ....... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Tue Jul 10 15:17:51 2018 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2018 17:17:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 I recently bought 8 Vred 185/70 15 from Vulcan Tire for $128 each. Great service and shipping was reasonable Jim Werner -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Tue, Jul 10, 2018 1:47 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 Last time I needed a set of Vreds, this place had the best price: http://tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRES/Vredestein/vred_sprint_classic.htm I called, but they only had 3 in stock because 'somebody'--TireRack probably--had bought the entire latest batch from Vred. I ended up buying from TireRack. NFI Bob On 7/9/2018 6:22 PM, Tom Felts wrote: Vredestines have been great tires for me on my BJ8. Then there is Universal out of Hershey Pa-----I run these on my E-Type- Tom _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Jul 10 21:28:09 2018 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2018 20:28:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 This is an update regarding my e-mail to The List that was a response to Earl Kagna. He stated that the Michelin XAS tire required an inner tube. I stated that I had XAS tires on tubeless wire wheels without inner tubes. Earl questioned what tire I actually had. I went out to the garage and "read" my tires. They are 180 HR 15 XAS. Then, I went around the tire to see what else might be imbedded in the rubber. Right below "MICHELIN" in plain sight, it says, (drum roll), "Tube Type" (cymbal crash) Not the wheel seller or the tire seller/installer mentioned that to me. That could be understandable since the tires were purchased some time after wheels. .. So, what now? I need to find out why those tires need a tube and is it important enough that I should dismount them and install tubes? Does it have something to do with the mold and whether it will fit the rim properly? Is it the inner construction that needs the support of the inner tube to keep it from falling apart? Does the wider sidewall need the support to limit flexing? I will try to find out what Michelin has to say about this. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eorr at cogeco.ca Wed Jul 11 06:47:45 2018 From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr) Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2018 08:47:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Drive The Ontario contingent (5 cars) for the Conclave drive to French Lick met at our monthly Pub last night , we are unsure of the best route to avoid Freeways where possible and still make reasonable time . From the border crossing at Niagara Falls it?s about a 600 mile trip , we have reservation for Sat night in Delaware OH . From the border to Cleveland we will take I-190 usually an easy drive with not heavy traffic . We have been considering Route 42 , is that a good option . Ed Orr -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jul 11 08:35:50 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2018 16:35:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Drive References: Selecting the options "fastest route" and "avoid interstates/motorways" on the updated satnav (Tomtom, Garmin) has always worked for us in most of the USA and (a very small portion of) Canada). Mostly decent roads and little traffic. Lots of interesting places to see and proper places to eat and drink along the way. 600mls should be around 15-20hrs pure driving time this way. Driving that way is much more entertaining and pleasant than driving on the Interstates. Be careful if you select the "shortest route", that may guide you to some very narrow roads, some of which may be dirt tracks. The Interstates are much faster but very boring and tiring I find. Services are plentiful but not all that good and it may be easier to find a hotel/motel. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-7-2018 om 14:47 schreef Ed Orr: > The Ontario contingent (5 cars) for the Conclave drive to French Lick > met at our monthly Pub last night , we are unsure of the best route to > avoid Freeways where possible and still make reasonable time . From > the border crossing at Niagara Falls it?s about a 600 mile trip , we > have reservation for Sat night? in Delaware OH . From the border to > Cleveland we will take I-190 usually an easy drive with not heavy > traffic . > We have been considering Route 42 , is that a good option . > Ed Orr > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Wed Jul 11 08:56:00 2018 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2018 10:56:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Drive References: Hi Ed: While I do not know exactly what route to take, if you google map the directions from Delaware, OH to French Lick IN and click on to the bicycle icon you will get the route that does not include Interstate highways. Me thinks that it would be all or partly scenic. Hope to see you at the Fair. I will not be there with my BJ8 as it is still on stands in Florida. Bob Begani 67 BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Orr Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2018 8:48 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Drive The Ontario contingent (5 cars) for the Conclave drive to French Lick met at our monthly Pub last night , we are unsure of the best route to avoid Freeways where possible and still make reasonable time . From the border crossing at Niagara Falls it?s about a 600 mile trip , we have reservation for Sat night in Delaware OH . From the border to Cleveland we will take I-190 usually an easy drive with not heavy traffic . We have been considering Route 42 , is that a good option . Ed Orr -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Jul 11 10:50:17 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2018 12:50:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Drive References: We will be leaving western Pennsylvania and headed west on the interstates 76 and then 71. We will keep an eye out (that phrase is nonsensical) for LBC?s on the side of the road. Perry Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 11, 2018, at 8:47 AM, Ed Orr wrote: > > The Ontario contingent (5 cars) for the Conclave drive to French Lick met at our monthly Pub last night , we are unsure of the best route to avoid Freeways where possible and still make reasonable time . From the border crossing at Niagara Falls it?s about a 600 mile trip , we have reservation for Sat night in Delaware OH . From the border to Cleveland we will take I-190 usually an easy drive with not heavy traffic . > We have been considering Route 42 , is that a good option . > > Ed Orr > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Wed Jul 11 12:17:15 2018 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2018 14:17:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Conclave route from Ontario We are starting from the Ontario border in Michigan, so will have a different route than you, but here are a few suggestions based on where we might go. Mind you, this adds time to the trip, possibly an entire additional day [or two.]: - Ford Rouge Plant Tour, Dearborn, MI - Auburn Cord Duesenberg Museum, Auburn, IN - Model T Museum, Richmond, IN - Dream Car Museum, Evansville, IN [this is on the far side of French Lick, and as such is likely to be just a day trip during the stay.] - Oakley Brothers Distillery, Anderson, IN - Bear Wallow Distillery, Nashville, IN - Hard Truth Distilling Co, Nashville, IN Here is a link to route with a couple of those on it. Keep in mind it is not [yet] optimized in terms of avoiding Interstate Hwys, etc. https://goo.gl/maps/TpRvMUbFyd12 Al Fuller '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Thu Jul 12 14:26:52 2018 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2018 16:26:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Healey BJ8 My engine rebuild at 40K miles has turned into painting the engine compartment with the doors and front fenders removed for access. With the rebuilt engine I am installing a rebuilt Toyota five speed gearbox and have already rebuilt the rear end with an original 3:54 ring and pinion. The original S/N transmission will live on my shelf with my spare. I am trying really hard to stop taking things apart but today I pulled my heater assembly out to replace the hoses and clean and paint the housing. Question, should I keep my forty year old heater valve or replace it with new replacement. Are there good replacements available or just China junk? With the engine, gearbox and center console out access will never be better then now. Wayne -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3040.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1291431 bytes Desc: not available URL: From banjojohn at cox.net Thu Jul 12 17:40:49 2018 From: banjojohn at cox.net (John) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2018 18:40:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bike rack Hi Listers: Has anyone ever tried, or come up with a bike rack that can be mounted safely on a BJ8?? I'm heading up to Road America next week, and would like to drive Madelyn, but I'd also like to have my bike up there gto get around the grounds.? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks John O'Brien '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) '61 Bugeye (Lucy) From 050.rpl at gmail.com Thu Jul 12 18:48:42 2018 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2018 18:48:42 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Healey BJ8 References: I?ve seen both. My opinion, take it apart, clean it up and use the old one. Just my opinion. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 12, 2018, at 2:26 PM, Wayne Schultz wrote: > > My engine rebuild at 40K miles has turned into painting the engine compartment with the doors and front fenders removed for access. With the rebuilt engine I am installing a rebuilt Toyota five speed gearbox and have already rebuilt the rear end with an original 3:54 ring and pinion. The original S/N transmission will live on my shelf with my spare. I am trying really hard to stop taking things apart but today I pulled my heater assembly out to replace the hoses and clean and paint the housing. Question, should I keep my forty year old heater valve or replace it with new replacement. Are there good replacements available or just China junk? With the engine, gearbox and center console out access will never be better then now. > > Wayne > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com > From nstbennett at gmail.com Thu Jul 12 21:01:48 2018 From: nstbennett at gmail.com (N.S. Bennett) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2018 21:01:48 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 216 References: Re: Ontario Contingent US Routes 5 and 20 generally run from Buffalo to Cleveland (and beyond). Rt 5 parallels the southern shores of Lake Erie and is a good, non-freeway drive. The road is good (maybe some potholes) and does not typically contain traffic. I recommend this as an prime alternative to I-90. The nice thing is you can get to I-90 rather easily. Should you choose to head this way, feel free to contact me off list for more information. Cheers, Nate B. On Thu, Jul 12, 2018, 3:17 PM wrote: > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > Today's Topics: > > 1. Conclave route from Ontario (Al Fuller) > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Al Fuller > To: > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2018 14:17:15 -0400 > Subject: [Healeys] Conclave route from Ontario > > We are starting from the Ontario border in Michigan, so will have a > different route than you, but here are a few suggestions based on where we > might go. Mind you, this adds time to the trip, possibly an entire > additional day [or two?]: > > > > - Ford Rouge Plant Tour, Dearborn, MI > > - Auburn Cord Duesenberg Museum, Auburn, IN > > - Model T Museum, Richmond, IN > > - Dream Car Museum, Evansville, IN [this is on the far side of > French Lick, and as such is likely to be just a day trip during the stay?] > > - Oakley Brothers Distillery, Anderson, IN > > - Bear Wallow Distillery, Nashville, IN > > - Hard Truth Distilling Co, Nashville, IN > > > > Here is a link to route with a couple of those on it. Keep in mind it is > not [yet] optimized in terms of avoiding Interstate Hwys, etc? > https://goo.gl/maps/TpRvMUbFyd12 > > > > Al Fuller > > > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jul 12 22:26:59 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2018 21:26:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bike rack References: <35e80d3f-8470-331a-33ab-1d63aed8ea4f@cox.net> Install a hitch, then use a hitch mounted bike rack Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Thu, Jul 12, 2018, 8:18 PM John wrote: > Hi Listers: > > Has anyone ever tried, or come up with a bike rack that can be mounted > safely on a BJ8? I'm heading up to Road America next week, and would > like to drive Madelyn, but I'd also like to have my bike up there gto > get around the grounds. Any ideas would be appreciated. > > Thanks > > John O'Brien > > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > > '61 Bugeye (Lucy) > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kags at shaw.ca Thu Jul 12 22:30:08 2018 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2018 21:30:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Healey BJ8 References: Hi Wayne: As far as I know, the replacement heater valves seem to be of decent quality. I changed mine a few years ago during a total resto and haven?t had any problems with it. If you decide to keep the original, I might suggest changing the rubber o-ring ? they do deteriorate with time. A little trick I learned a long time ago: the original mounting screws are posidrive ? 10 x 32, I believe. Replace them with the same length hex head screws ? way easier to get at with a small spanner with the car fully together. I usually get the armrest console out of the way on a BJ8 anyway ? easy enough to do. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Wayne Schultz Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2018 1:26 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Healey BJ8 My engine rebuild at 40K miles has turned into painting the engine compartment with the doors and front fenders removed for access. With the rebuilt engine I am installing a rebuilt Toyota five speed gearbox and have already rebuilt the rear end with an original 3:54 ring and pinion. The original S/N transmission will live on my shelf with my spare. I am trying really hard to stop taking things apart but today I pulled my heater assembly out to replace the hoses and clean and paint the housing. Question, should I keep my forty year old heater valve or replace it with new replacement. Are there good replacements available or just China junk? With the engine, gearbox and center console out access will never be better then now. Wayne -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Thu Jul 12 23:41:20 2018 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2018 17:41:20 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Healey BJ8 References: Hi Wayne, The diecast housing tends to corrode inside and eventually goes through so I'd replace it. The replacement ones are of reasonable quality although there is a tiny steel spring inside that rusts away if you don't use corrosion inhibitor and then the heater stays partially on regardless of the lever position. I prefer to recycle the steel lever and other parts from the original and fit them onto a new diaphragm and diecast housing just for the sake of keeping original parts. Definitely replace the oring that clamps the valve onto the heater core, it will probably look triangular and rock hard. Being mindful of shipwrights disease, consider having the heater core cleaned out while you are in there. the difference is amazing- it is surprising how much heat they produce when not blocked up, particularly if a plastic blower fan is installed in place of the metal one. Attached is a pic of a heater core with the end removed, more than 3/4 of the tubes are blocked. A radiator shop should be able to clean it out for a reasonable fee, alternatively if you are good with solder and a blowtorch you can remove the end caps yourself fairly easily. Andy. On 7/13/18, Wayne Schultz wrote: > My engine rebuild at 40K miles has turned into painting the engine > compartment with the doors and front fenders removed for access. With the > rebuilt engine I am installing a rebuilt Toyota five speed gearbox and have > already rebuilt the rear end with an original 3:54 ring and pinion. The > original S/N transmission will live on my shelf with my spare. I am trying > really hard to stop taking things apart but today I pulled my heater > assembly out to replace the hoses and clean and paint the housing. > Question, should I keep my forty year old heater valve or replace it with > new replacement. Are there good replacements available or just China junk? > With the engine, gearbox and center console out access will never be better > then now. > > Wayne > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: heater gunge.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 106607 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jul 13 03:22:28 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2018 11:22:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Bike rack References: <35e80d3f-8470-331a-33ab-1d63aed8ea4f@cox.net> If you have a tow bar there are plenty of possibilities. Thule presumably being the best available. Kees Oudesluijs Op 13-7-2018 om 01:40 schreef John: > Hi Listers: > > Has anyone ever tried, or come up with a bike rack that can be mounted > safely on a BJ8?? I'm heading up to Road America next week, and would > like to drive Madelyn, but I'd also like to have my bike up there gto > get around the grounds.? Any ideas would be appreciated. > > Thanks > > John O'Brien > > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > > '61 Bugeye (Lucy) > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jul 13 03:26:08 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2018 11:26:08 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Healey BJ8 References: If it ain?t broke don?t fix (or replace) it. Just take it apart, clean it up and fit together with "Hahnenfett", graphite grease. Kees Oudesluijs Op 13-7-2018 om 02:48 schreef R. Lindsay: > I?ve seen both. My opinion, take it apart, clean it up and use the old one. Just my opinion. > > Price Lindsay > > Cell: 630-841-6300 > Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jul 12, 2018, at 2:26 PM, Wayne Schultz wrote: >> >> My engine rebuild at 40K miles has turned into painting the engine compartment with the doors and front fenders removed for access. With the rebuilt engine I am installing a rebuilt Toyota five speed gearbox and have already rebuilt the rear end with an original 3:54 ring and pinion. The original S/N transmission will live on my shelf with my spare. I am trying really hard to stop taking things apart but today I pulled my heater assembly out to replace the hoses and clean and paint the housing. Question, should I keep my forty year old heater valve or replace it with new replacement. Are there good replacements available or just China junk? With the engine, gearbox and center console out access will never be better then now. >> >> Wayne >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From rfbegani at gmail.com Fri Jul 13 05:05:21 2018 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2018 07:05:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 References: <16480b1b425-179f-12784@webjas-vaa149.srv.aolmail.net> Hi Gary: Thanks for the info I have tried to search in Tire Rack before without any luck. Forgot the VW Ghia. Do you know who makes the Classic Tire? Bob Begani BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of editorgary at aol.com Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 4:18 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 Or, if you don't want to spend the time and effort going through Hendrix -- though Allan's service is excellent -- You can search on tire rack for tires for a 1957 Volkswagen Karmann Ghia -- That will pop up Classic All-Season tires in a 16580R15T size for $82.85 per tire. which can be shipped in just a day or two to an installer in your area, though you'll need to find a a shop that can still mount and balance tires on wire wheels. Good luck, G,. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California ne so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Tires (Al Fuller) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 14:24:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires David ? I?d contact Allan Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheel. They will advise on tire choices, wheel choices, and they shave the tires so the assembly is round when you get it, too! Al Fuller '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 10:49 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires It is time to replace the tires on my Austin Healey - BJ8 with wire wheels. I am looking for some recommendations so any good advice is appreciated. Thanks, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Jul 13 06:55:11 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2018 08:55:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 References: <16480b1b425-179f-12784@webjas-vaa149.srv.aolmail.net> <003a01d41a99$6541da40$2fc58ec0$@gmail.com> Bob, I asked Tire Rack the same question a couple of years ago. Here's the response I got: "Because none of the major manufacturers we carry produce tires in some vintage sizes, we have sourced the private label Classic tires to fill those voids in our lineup. The manufacturer who makes them produces private label tires for many sources, so these tires may be sold under a different name in different parts of the world. We don't test them, so we cannot speak on their performance characteristics, but we would expect the performance to be commensurate with the types of vehicles on which they are installed." Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/13/2018 07:05 AM, Robert Begani wrote: > Hi Gary: > > Thanks for the info I have tried to search in Tire Rack before without > any luck.? Forgot the VW Ghia.? Do you know who makes the Classic Tire? > > Bob Begani > > BJ8 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *editorgary at aol.com > *Sent:* Monday, July 9, 2018 4:18 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 > > Or, if you don't want to spend the time and effort going through Hendrix > -- though Allan's service is excellent -- > > You can search on tire rack for tires for a 1957 Volkswagen Karmann Ghia > -- That will pop up > > Classic All-Season tires in a 16580R15T size for $82.85 per tire. > > which can be shipped in just a day or two to an installer in your area, > though you'll need to find a a shop that can still mount and balance > tires on wire wheels. > > Good luck, > > > G,. > > /Gary Anderson/ > Los Altos, California > > ne so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Tires (Al Fuller) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 14:24:46 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires > Message-ID: <012101d416e8$f4222850$dc6678f0$@bighealey.org > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > David ? I?d contact Allan Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheel. They will > advise on tire choices, wheel choices, and they shave the tires so the > assembly is round when you get it, too! > > > > Al Fuller > > > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 10:49 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires > > > > It is time to replace the tires on my Austin Healey - BJ8 with wire > wheels. I am looking for some recommendations so any good advice is > appreciated. > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 11:05:41 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2018 19:05:41 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Healey BJ8 References: Seconded. Not sure, but there may be an O-ring or seal that could be replaced. FWIW, my BJ8 was built in Nov. '66 has 205K miles, and the valve still works (but it's been a bit more recalcitrant lately). I had it out years ago when a hose started leaking and, IIRC, I shot some oil on it and put it back in. Bob > On July 13, 2018 at 2:48 AM "R. Lindsay" <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: > > > I?ve seen both. My opinion, take it apart, clean it up and use the old one. Just my opinion. > > Price Lindsay > > Cell: 630-841-6300 > Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Jul 12, 2018, at 2:26 PM, Wayne Schultz wrote: > > > > My engine rebuild at 40K miles has turned into painting the engine compartment with the doors and front fenders removed for access. With the rebuilt engine I am installing a rebuilt Toyota five speed gearbox and have already rebuilt the rear end with an original 3:54 ring and pinion. The original S/N transmission will live on my shelf with my spare. I am trying really hard to stop taking things apart but today I pulled my heater assembly out to replace the hoses and clean and paint the housing. Question, should I keep my forty year old heater valve or replace it with new replacement. Are there good replacements available or just China junk? With the engine, gearbox and center console out access will never be better then now. > > > > Wayne > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jul 13 12:09:03 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2018 11:09:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 References: <16480b1b425-179f-12784@webjas-vaa149.srv.aolmail.net> <003a01d41a99$6541da40$2fc58ec0$@gmail.com> Coker tire makes a bias ply look radial with red stripe. 185x15 Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Fri, Jul 13, 2018, 5:39 AM Robert Begani wrote: > Hi Gary: > > > > Thanks for the info I have tried to search in Tire Rack before without any > luck. Forgot the VW Ghia. Do you know who makes the Classic Tire? > > > > Bob Begani > > BJ8 > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of * > editorgary at aol.com > *Sent:* Monday, July 9, 2018 4:18 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 > > > > Or, if you don't want to spend the time and effort going through Hendrix > -- though Allan's service is excellent -- > > > > You can search on tire rack for tires for a 1957 Volkswagen Karmann Ghia > -- That will pop up > > > > Classic All-Season tires in a 16580R15T size for $82.85 per tire. > > > > which can be shipped in just a day or two to an installer in your area, > though you'll need to find a a shop that can still mount and balance tires > on wire wheels. > > > > Good luck, > > > G,. > > > > *Gary Anderson* > Los Altos, California > > > > > > ne so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Tires (Al Fuller) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 14:24:46 -0400 > From: "Al Fuller" > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires > Message-ID: <012101d416e8$f4222850$dc6678f0$@bighealey.org> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > David ? I?d contact Allan Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheel. They will advise > on tire choices, wheel choices, and they shave the tires so the assembly is > round when you get it, too! > > > > Al Fuller > > > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of david cooperman > Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 10:49 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires > > > > It is time to replace the tires on my Austin Healey - BJ8 with wire > wheels. I am looking for some recommendations so any good advice is > appreciated. > > > > Thanks, > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Fri Jul 13 12:26:23 2018 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2018 14:26:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 I'm still a 165/15 guy -- I think the 185s change the appearance too much, and don't work at all on the 100s -- But it certainly is much easier to get tires in 185/15, that's true. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -----Original Message----- From: i erbs To: Robert Begani Cc: Gary Anderson ; Ahealey help Sent: Fri, Jul 13, 2018 11:09 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 Coker tire makes a bias ply look radial with red stripe. 185x15 Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Fri Jul 13 17:10:21 2018 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2018 19:10:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LED light sockets References: Listers, I am converting all of the lighting on my 66 BJ 8, other than headlights, to LED bulbs. So far, everything has gone fine. The improved lighting/visability is great. I now discover that the speedo and the tach are screw base bulbs, not the wedge type bulb of the fuel and combo gauge. Does anyone have a source for an LED wedge bulb socket that fits the speedo and tach? Or is it possible to get a screwbase LED bulb that will fit the existing sockets? Moss does not carry a socket that fits anything but the high beam and alternator warning lights. What "size" is the actual screw base. On line there are varity of bases and i can't tell what i need. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jul 13 23:51:01 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2018 07:51:01 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] LED light sockets References: I'm confused. I replaced all the panel bulbs in my '67 BJ8 with LEDs from Moss. Without looking, the tach and speedo were screw-in, but don't recall what the safety and fuel gauge were, but I'm quite sure I bought them from Moss (I got 1157 equivalent LEDs for the brake/driving likes from a different source). I even got and LED for the generator warning bulb, but was advised one should use an incandescent there (although the LED seemed to work fine). My car is pos. gnd., and except for a rebuild of the safety gauge all stock. Bob > On July 14, 2018 at 1:10 AM Fred Wescoe wrote: > > Listers, > > I am converting all of the lighting on my 66 BJ 8, other than headlights, to LED bulbs. So far, everything has gone fine. The improved lighting/visability is great. I now discover that the speedo and the tach are screw base bulbs, not the wedge type bulb of the fuel and combo gauge. > > Does anyone have a source for an LED wedge bulb socket that fits the speedo and tach? Or is it possible to get a screwbase LED bulb that will fit the existing sockets? Moss does not carry a socket that fits anything but the high beam and alternator warning lights. > > What "size" is the actual screw base. On line there are varity of bases and i can't tell what i need. > > Thanks, > > Fred > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jul 14 02:37:33 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2018 10:37:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] LED light sockets References: You can easily make up something using a fitting cork and a soldering iron. Not high tech or "as it should be" but simple and effective. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-7-2018 om 01:10 schreef Fred Wescoe: > Listers, > > I am converting all of the lighting on my 66 BJ 8, other than > headlights, to LED bulbs.? So far, everything has gone fine.? The > improved lighting/visability is great.? I now discover that the speedo > and the tach are screw base bulbs, not the wedge type bulb of the fuel > and combo gauge. > > Does anyone have a source for an LED wedge bulb socket that fits the > speedo and tach?? Or is it possible to get a screwbase LED bulb that > will fit the existing sockets? Moss does not carry a socket that fits > anything but the high beam and alternator warning lights. > > What "size" is the actual screw base.? On line there are varity of > bases and i can't tell what i need. > > Thanks, > > Fred > 66 BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgcharlie at comcast.net Sat Jul 14 04:19:20 2018 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2018 06:19:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LED light sockets References: Fred, I don't think you need to change out the sockets.? Check out Classic and Vintage Bulbs website at www.classicbulbs.com.? He makes a lot of the bulbs that will fit old British cars.? The USA dealer is Little British Car Co., lbcarco.com. Actually, I just checked the first link and it goes to lbcarco. If you can't find them there, email Jeff Zorn at lbcarco.? He is an MGA owner, so he will know exactly what you are talking about. Charlie On 7/13/2018 7:10 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > Listers, > > I am converting all of the lighting on my 66 BJ 8, other than > headlights, to LED bulbs.? So far, everything has gone fine.? The > improved lighting/visability is great.? I now discover that the speedo > and the tach are screw base bulbs, not the wedge type bulb of the fuel > and combo gauge. > > Does anyone have a source for an LED wedge bulb socket that fits the > speedo and tach?? Or is it possible to get a screwbase LED bulb that > will fit the existing sockets? Moss does not carry a socket that fits > anything but the high beam and alternator warning lights. > > What "size" is the actual screw base.? On line there are varity of > bases and i can't tell what i need. > > Thanks, > > Fred > 66 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jul 14 11:02:29 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2018 19:02:29 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 References: <1259996357.731499.1531551913797@connect.xfinity.com> <164984f4fc3-c93-6897@webjas-vac203.srv.aolmail.net> Meaning no speed rating (lowest one I'm familiar with is 'S,' which I think is rated to 120)? Wouldn't touch 'em. The tire rating system may not be perfect--since, I believe, the manufacturers rate themselves--but there's an army of liability lawyers to keep them in line. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA -------- Original Message ---------- From: editorgary at aol.com To: bspidell at comcast.net, rfbegani at gmail.com, rchaskell at earthlink.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Date: July 14, 2018 at 12:21 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 It means they can't assure that the tires will be safe at speeds over 90 mph but don't expect that Karman Ghias and Healey 100s are going to be driving faster. G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: editorgary ; Robert Begani ; Bob Haskell Cc: healeys Sent: Sat, Jul 14, 2018 12:05 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires for BJ8 re: "... We don't test them, so we cannot speak on their performance characteristics, but we would expect the performance to be commensurate with the types of vehicles on which they are installed." WTF does that mean??? bs > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From banjojohn at cox.net Sat Jul 14 13:03:41 2018 From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2018 14:03:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] LED light sockets FredJust yesterday I ordered screw base LED bulbs fot my BJ8 speedo and tach from Moss.? They carry a standard height and a short.? I ordered the short, not being sure if the standard would be too tall to fit.? Don't have them yet but I expect they'll work.John O'Brien?'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)'61 Bugeye (Lucy) Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7. -------- Original message --------From: Charlie Baldwin Date: 7/14/18 5:19 AM (GMT-06:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED light sockets Fred, I don't think you need to change out the sockets.? Check out Classic and Vintage Bulbs website at www.classicbulbs.com.? He makes a lot of the bulbs that will fit old British cars.? The USA dealer is Little British Car Co., lbcarco.com. Actually, I just checked the first link and it goes to lbcarco.? If you can't find them there, email Jeff Zorn at lbcarco.? He is an MGA owner, so he will know exactly what you are talking about. Charlie On 7/13/2018 7:10 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: Listers, I am converting all of the lighting on my 66 BJ 8, other than headlights, to LED bulbs.? So far, everything has gone fine.? The improved lighting/visability is great.? I now discover that the speedo and the tach are screw base bulbs, not the wedge type bulb of the fuel and combo gauge. Does anyone have a source for an LED wedge bulb socket that fits the speedo and tach?? Or is it possible to get a screwbase LED bulb that will fit the existing sockets?? Moss does not carry a socket that fits anything but the high beam and alternator warning lights.?? What "size" is the actual screw base.? On line there are varity of bases and i can't tell what i need. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Jul 14 13:03:59 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2018 15:03:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Who=E2=80=99s_going_to_be_at_French_Lick_Indi?= =?utf-8?q?ana?= Anyone on the list going to this AH meet tomorrow? We are half way there..... Perry Sent from my iPhone From goldengt at cal.net Sat Jul 14 17:20:46 2018 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2018 16:20:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healey model question Some of you might already have a 1/48 ? scale Vitese model of a 3000 mk2 in white over red. The red also covers the front wheel arch not like a real car. What is a good way to remove that small strip of red to reveal the white underneath? sand paper? lacquer thinner?Thanks,Ken Freese65 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com Sat Jul 14 19:33:55 2018 From: JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com (Jim Frakes) Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2018 21:33:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] =?windows-1252?q?Who=92s_going_to_be_at_French_Lick_Ind?= =?windows-1252?q?iana?= References: <920D63D3-66A9-47D3-884C-B938937414DF@aol.com> Several are already here.,NE OHIO came in with at least five cars. Florida, gulf coast, mid Texas, Michigan have cars here so far. Plus indiana and Ohio valley club., Look forward to see all. Storm, expected tonight. Will cool down for tomorrow. All overnight healey parking is under cover all week. Toured the grounds of the huge Monastery in Ferdinand and had dinner last night in their brewery located at the back of the grounds. JimFrakes Sent from my iPad > On Jul 14, 2018, at 4:37 PM, Perry Small wrote: > > Anyone on the list going to this AH meet tomorrow? We are half way there..... > Perry > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jimf at frakes-eng.com > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information that is privileged or confidential. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number listed above or by return e-mail. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Sun Jul 15 11:08:32 2018 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2018 13:08:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Healey BJ8 References: Hello, I am adding an update to me Heater rebuild questions. I pressure checked my heater core and flow tested it with my hose. The core looked brand new and flowed quite a bit of water with my hose check and did not leak under pressure. My heater valve looked great also. As for the o'ring between the heater valve and the core. I used two Nitrile 1/2 " x 11/16 x 3/32 o'rings stacked together. The replacement o'ring I got from a popular supplier looked more like plastic than rubber. Hnbr o'rings are very resistant to chemicals, temperature changes and have high tensile strength. Having worked in aviation since 1970 this is my choice. I thought about not reinstalling the heater, since I don't recall the last time I needed the heater in my Healey, but I am trying to keep somethings original. On Thu, Jul 12, 2018 at 4:26 PM, Wayne Schultz wrote: > My engine rebuild at 40K miles has turned into painting the engine > compartment with the doors and front fenders removed for access. With the > rebuilt engine I am installing a rebuilt Toyota five speed gearbox and have > already rebuilt the rear end with an original 3:54 ring and pinion. The > original S/N transmission will live on my shelf with my spare. I am trying > really hard to stop taking things apart but today I pulled my heater > assembly out to replace the hoses and clean and paint the housing. > Question, should I keep my forty year old heater valve or replace it with > new replacement. Are there good replacements available or just China junk? > With the engine, gearbox and center console out access will never be better > then now. > > Wayne > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ronfineesq at earthlink.net Sun Jul 15 11:26:29 2018 From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2018 10:26:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tires I just wanted to add my experience with tires; I needed to replace some 14 year old Michelin ZX 175 - 15 tires on my BN7. I mounted tubeless Michelin XZX 165-15 on new tubeless 60 spoke wheels. Tires from Coker Tire Co. I think they look right, and the ride is great. They are more expensive than other options but I have always had great experience with Michelin tires on my other cars. Ron Fine 61 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Sun Jul 15 13:07:27 2018 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2018 15:07:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Coker-sourced Michelin 165-15 XZX References: For someone who is concerned with drivability, reliability and concours-acceptable choices, this is a good option: As you might know, they are not being made by Michelin -- those are the old Michelin molds that have been sold on to a third-party manufacturer, but they're going to be made to Coker standards using modern rubber formulas. Sure they'll be expensive, but what isn't, and they'll look good and definitely last at least the 10 years from manufacture that everyone pretty much agrees are acceptable limits for tires today. And they should be safe within the dafe limits of a normal Healey (i.e. cruising at 75-80 all day long with very occasional spurts up to 100 mph). Tubeless is definitely an advantage, but that's more a factor of the wheel rim and spoke design than the tire itself. G. Message: 6 Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2018 10:26:29 -0700 From: "Ron Fine" To: Subject: [Healeys] Tires I just wanted to add my experience with tires; I needed to replace some 14 year old Michelin ZX 175 - 15 tires on my BN7. I mounted tubeless Michelin XZX 165-15 on new tubeless 60 spoke wheels. Tires from Coker Tire Co. I think they look right, and the ride is great. They are more expensive than other options but I have always had great experience with Michelin tires on my other cars. Ron Fine 61 BN7 Gary Anderson Los Altos, California - -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From go2ghill at aol.com Sun Jul 15 22:19:13 2018 From: go2ghill at aol.com (Greg Hill) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2018 00:19:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Troubleshooting blown fuse Car runs fine, but wipers and fuel gauge suddenly quit. Checked fuse and the 35 amp was blown. With no visible problem, how do you go about finding the cause. Your suggestion is appreciated. Greg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Jul 15 23:55:02 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2018 07:55:02 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Troubleshooting blown fuse References: <164a15052d9-c8c-e1b5@webjas-vae130.srv.aolmail.net> Fuses can go because of age. Replace and if it still blows you have a problem sorting out the short. Kees Oudesluijs Op 16-7-2018 om 06:19 schreef Greg Hill: > Car runs fine, but wipers and fuel gauge suddenly quit. Checked fuse > and the 35 amp was blown. With no visible problem, how do you go about > finding the cause. Your suggestion is appreciated. > Greg > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Jul 16 05:36:33 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2018 07:36:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Troubleshooting blown fuse References: <164a15052d9-c8c-e1b5@webjas-vae130.srv.aolmail.net> When the upper fuse goes, it also takes out the brake lights, turn signals, tachometer, and heater blower. Having that fuse blow while on the road to Conclave once, I had to buy a box of fuses and use them up one at a time to find the circuit that was blowing the fuse. That convinced me to separate those five circuits to individual fuses. It has saved a lot of troubleshooting time since then. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Hill Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 12:19 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Troubleshooting blown fuse Car runs fine, but wipers and fuel gauge suddenly quit. Checked fuse and the 35 amp was blown. With no visible problem, how do you go about finding the cause. Your suggestion is appreciated. Greg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Jul 16 07:13:16 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2018 09:13:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Gathering Something about getting together with old friends and new ones, remembering those who have passed on and enjoying a day or two! Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2957.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 127022 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jul 16 08:19:00 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2018 07:19:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Maybe why the Anderson-Moment book 'sells' so high *Suspected as much: * *https://tinyurl.com/yboy2wxd* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Jul 16 19:12:56 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2018 21:12:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Nice Healey day in Indiana A sampling.... -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2972.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 156139 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From rfbegani at gmail.com Tue Jul 17 06:24:06 2018 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2018 08:24:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Maybe why the Anderson-Moment book 'sells' so high References: <2ca51f70-6dfd-44ca-086c-519defe6b847@comcast.net> Bob: Yes, I suspected as much also. We recently purchased a Victorian house which was designed by a well known architect at the beginning of the 20th century. We wanted a copy of the paper back describing in detail our new home which was out of print. The prices were out of sight, so I waited and kept looking from time to time. Got the book, for less than $30 and it was in new condition. That ploy may not work on the Anderson-Moment book as the outrageous price seems to be holding and more resellers are entering the market. Too bad there is not a bootleg version out there, you know someone with a color copier for us real Healey enthusiasts? Bob Begani From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 10:19 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Maybe why the Anderson-Moment book 'sells' so high Suspected as much: https://tinyurl.com/yboy2wxd -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jul 17 08:23:13 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2018 07:23:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Maybe why the Anderson-Moment book 'sells' so high References: <2ca51f70-6dfd-44ca-086c-519defe6b847@comcast.net> <005c01d41dc9$0e6ddce0$2b4996a0$@gmail.com> On second thought, the A-M book is usually 'asking' $300 or so ... this could be just good, old-fashioned gouging by some opportunists. Reminds me a lot of 'value pricing,' which is a euphemism for overpricing something so that the gullible think it must be special and 'worth it.' Bob On 7/17/2018 5:24 AM, Robert Begani wrote: > > Bob: > > Yes, I suspected as much also.? We recently purchased a Victorian > house which was designed by a well known architect at the beginning of > the 20^th century.? We wanted a copy of the paper back describing in > detail our new home which was out of print.? The prices were out of > sight, so I waited and kept looking from time to time.? Got the book, > for less than $30 and it was in new condition.? That ploy may not work > on the Anderson-Moment book as the outrageous price seems to be > holding and more resellers are entering the market. > > Too bad there is not a bootleg version out there, you know someone > with a color copier for us real Healey enthusiasts? > > Bob Begani > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Monday, July 16, 2018 10:19 AM > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] [OT] Maybe why the Anderson-Moment book 'sells' > so high > > *Suspected as much:* > > *https://tinyurl.com/yboy2wxd* > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Tue Jul 17 09:06:23 2018 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2018 15:06:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Maybe why the Anderson-Moment book 'sells' so high References: <2ca51f70-6dfd-44ca-086c-519defe6b847@comcast.net> <005c01d41dc9$0e6ddce0$2b4996a0$@gmail.com> I wouldn't encourage theft of intellectual property.... But, you wouldn't need a colour copier because the only colour is on the cover. The poorly reproduced photos are all in black and white. Stephen, BJ8 From: Robert Begani To: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'Healeys' Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2018 8:33 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] Maybe why the Anderson-Moment book 'sells' so high #yiv8972607121 #yiv8972607121 -- _filtered #yiv8972607121 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv8972607121 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv8972607121 #yiv8972607121 p.yiv8972607121MsoNormal, #yiv8972607121 li.yiv8972607121MsoNormal, #yiv8972607121 div.yiv8972607121MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;color:black;}#yiv8972607121 a:link, #yiv8972607121 span.yiv8972607121MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8972607121 a:visited, #yiv8972607121 span.yiv8972607121MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8972607121 p {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;color:black;}#yiv8972607121 span.yiv8972607121EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv8972607121 .yiv8972607121MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv8972607121 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv8972607121 div.yiv8972607121WordSection1 {}#yiv8972607121 Bob: ?Yes, I suspected as much also.? We recently purchased a Victorian house which was designed by a well known architect at the beginning of the 20th century.? We wanted a copy of the paper back describing in detail our new home which was out of print.? The prices were out of sight, so I waited and kept looking from time to time.? Got the book, for less than $30 and it was in new condition.? That ploy may not work on the Anderson-Moment book as the outrageous price seems to be holding and more resellers are entering the market.? ?Too bad there is not a bootleg version out there, you know someone with a color copier for us real Healey enthusiasts? ?Bob Begani ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 10:19 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Maybe why the Anderson-Moment book 'sells' so high ?Suspected as much:https://tinyurl.com/yboy2wxd_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jul 17 18:13:32 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2018 17:13:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Maybe why the Anderson-Moment book 'sells' so high References: <2ca51f70-6dfd-44ca-086c-519defe6b847@comcast.net> If you search online you can find pdfs of the book to download Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Mon, Jul 16, 2018, 8:55 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > > *Suspected as much: * > > *https://tinyurl.com/yboy2wxd * > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Jul 18 21:09:48 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2018 20:09:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A Gathering References: <03EB7C58-0572-4954-9D93-0449834C1913@aol.com> Some day we will make it to Conclave. Just lots of hot driving to get there from Portland, OR. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Wed, Jul 18, 2018, 3:03 PM Perry Small wrote: > Something about getting together with old friends and new ones, > remembering those who have passed on and enjoying a day or two! > Perry > > > > Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Jul 19 04:50:58 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2018 06:50:58 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] A Gathering An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jul 19 10:20:27 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2018 09:20:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A Gathering References: <23779074.326.1531997458875@wamui-boogie.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Could be, and closer to home. Will look into it. I retire from teaching next June. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Thu, Jul 19, 2018, 3:51 AM Bob Haskell wrote: > Next year's will be in Deadwood, South Dakota, in September. Might be a > little cooler than Indiana in July. > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: i erbs > Sent: Jul 18, 2018 11:09 PM > To: Perry Small > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Gathering > > Some day we will make it to Conclave. Just lots of hot driving to get > there from Portland, OR. > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Wed, Jul 18, 2018, 3:03 PM Perry Small wrote: > >> Something about getting together with old friends and new ones, >> remembering those who have passed on and enjoying a day or two! >> Perry >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> > Bob Haskell > '60 AH3000 BT7 (big project) > '62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project) > '64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition) > '68 BMW 1600 (first car - project) > '80 MBG LE (running?) > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jul 19 18:00:00 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2018 20:00:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Awards dinner French Lick The real reason that we enjoy our cars.....the people the own them! Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3006.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 42389 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3007.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 43220 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Jul 21 12:31:32 2018 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2018 18:31:32 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Stuff!! We are downsizing for a possible move to St. Louis to near our grandson. I have years of Healey stuff all over the house and garage. Listing it on eBay would be a monumental task, although I have sold a few items. I live in Virginia Beach and would really like someone to come with a trailer and we can negotiate a mutually agreeable arrangement. It also would mean my wife can put her car in the garage, after the Mustang sells!! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Most would be 100-4 stuff. Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ We Suggest You Carry This With You At All Times buytaclight.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5b537c4c3926d7c4c4558st01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jul 22 15:35:13 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2018 14:35:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line Finally getting to work on the 67 B I bought for my wife. Seller told me a metal brake line was cracked and leaking...turns out the someone tried to braise a patch on the line and it leaked. Any advice on bending the replacement line to match the old one? Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20180722_135450.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2738822 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sun Jul 22 20:08:03 2018 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2018 02:08:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: I just replaced all my brake lines, rubber and metal from Moss. Good fit. Regards, Richard C > On Jul 22, 2018, at 6:03 PM, i erbs wrote: > > Finally getting to work on the 67 B I bought for my wife. Seller told me a metal brake line was cracked and leaking...turns out the someone tried to braise a patch on the line and it leaked. Any advice on bending the replacement line to match the old one? > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > <20180722_135450.jpg> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jul 22 20:09:32 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2018 19:09:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: Thanks, I was concerned about linking the line, but it's pretty soft. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Sun, Jul 22, 2018, 7:08 PM Richard Collins wrote: > I just replaced all my brake lines, rubber and metal from Moss. Good fit. > > Regards, > Richard C > > > > On Jul 22, 2018, at 6:03 PM, i erbs wrote: > > > > Finally getting to work on the 67 B I bought for my wife. Seller told me > a metal brake line was cracked and leaking...turns out the someone tried to > braise a patch on the line and it leaked. Any advice on bending the > replacement line to match the old one? > > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland, OR > > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > <20180722_135450.jpg> > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jul 22 20:53:25 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2018 19:53:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: Hi Ira, Pipe bending is an art that I haven't really mastered, but I've done OK by pulling the old line, and using a brake pipe bending tool to replicate--or possibly improve--the original pipe routing.? Steel brake line is cheap, so buy extra to practice with--it will probably take a couple tries to get it right--and switch to stainless or cunifer if you prefer after you get the hang of it.? Oh, and don't forget to put the fittings on before you flare the ends; it's painful to get a couple flares just right then realize there are no fittings (someone told me that once).? I think getting good flares is even trickier than bending. Based on the condition of that one line, I wouldn't trust any of the other brake lines in the car. Bob On 7/22/2018 2:35 PM, i erbs wrote: > Finally getting to work on the 67 B I bought for my wife. Seller told > me a metal brake line was cracked and leaking...turns out the someone > tried to braise a patch on the line and it leaked. Any advice on > bending the replacement line to match the old one? > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Sun Jul 22 22:45:47 2018 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2018 00:45:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: My 2 cents , on a car and it?s parts over 50 years old . Start thinking about replacing all of the lines , along with the clutch line and oh the fuel line . And oh the oil gauge line also , cause when it goes your going to have oil all over your drivers floor. You can get a complete set of stainless steel lines, for all the above , pre bent , and replace them as needed . I did this to my 67 BJ-8 along with switching over to silicone brake fluid . Never have to worry about any issues with this kind of thing again . Good Luck , Don Sent from my iPad > On Jul 22, 2018, at 10:53 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Hi Ira, > Pipe bending is an art that I haven't really mastered, but I've done OK by pulling the old line, and using a brake pipe bending tool to replicate--or possibly improve--the original pipe routing. Steel brake line is cheap, so buy extra to practice with--it will probably take a couple tries to get it right--and switch to stainless or cunifer if you prefer after you get the hang of it. Oh, and don't forget to put the fittings on before you flare the ends; it's painful to get a couple flares just right then realize there are no fittings (someone told me that once). I think getting good flares is even trickier than bending. > > Based on the condition of that one line, I wouldn't trust any of the other brake lines in the car. > > Bob > > >> On 7/22/2018 2:35 PM, i erbs wrote: >> Finally getting to work on the 67 B I bought for my wife. Seller told me a metal brake line was cracked and leaking...turns out the someone tried to braise a patch on the line and it leaked. Any advice on bending the replacement line to match the old one? >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland, OR >> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Jul 22 22:58:33 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2018 21:58:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: You can easily bend steel lines by hand. You might need a round pipe to get a smooth curve. Sometimes I use a partially open vice to bend the line if it is near and end of the line. You might need to flare the line after putting on the fitting. Be sure the fitting is in place at the end of the line if you need a tight bend that the fitting will not slide over. John Spaur San Jose, CA Typos and artifacts are my fault. :) From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2018 2:35 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] Brake line Finally getting to work on the 67 B I bought for my wife. Seller told me a metal brake line was cracked and leaking...turns out the someone tried to braise a patch on the line and it leaked. Any advice on bending the replacement line to match the old one? Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jul 23 00:16:02 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2018 23:16:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: <55D1F295-5A15-4783-9580-00180B89CC5D@yahoo.com> Silicone is hydroscpic too. I intend to replace all the lines and hoses. Brake and clutch rubber hoses have been replaced. Where do I get a prebent set for the 67 B I'm working on or my 100-6 for that matter? Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Sun, Jul 22, 2018, 11:00 PM Don Day wrote: > My 2 cents , on a car and it?s parts over 50 years old . Start thinking > about replacing all of the lines , along with the clutch line and oh the > fuel line . And oh the oil gauge line also , cause when it goes your going > to have oil all over your drivers floor. > You can get a complete set of stainless steel lines, for all the above , > pre bent , and replace them as needed . > I did this to my 67 BJ-8 along with switching over to silicone > brake fluid . Never have to worry about any issues with this kind of thing > again . > Good Luck , Don > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jul 22, 2018, at 10:53 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Hi Ira, > Pipe bending is an art that I haven't really mastered, but I've done OK by > pulling the old line, and using a brake pipe bending tool to replicate--or > possibly improve--the original pipe routing. Steel brake line is cheap, so > buy extra to practice with--it will probably take a couple tries to get it > right--and switch to stainless or cunifer if you prefer after you get the > hang of it. Oh, and don't forget to put the fittings on before you flare > the ends; it's painful to get a couple flares just right then realize there > are no fittings (someone told me that once). I think getting good flares > is even trickier than bending. > > Based on the condition of that one line, I wouldn't trust any of the other > brake lines in the car. > > Bob > > > On 7/22/2018 2:35 PM, i erbs wrote: > > Finally getting to work on the 67 B I bought for my wife. Seller told me a > metal brake line was cracked and leaking...turns out the someone tried to > braise a patch on the line and it leaked. Any advice on bending the > replacement line to match the old one? > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Jul 23 00:20:19 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2018 23:20:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: Pipe bending is an art ?--and switch to stainless (If you decide to use stainless steel be prepared for it. The flaring tools are different! Single flares, you can succeed most of the time but quality control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once or twice if you are lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it don?t use SS unless you have the right tools or have a shop flare the lines. You should also install copper cone washers between the SS flare and the brake line seat. It prevents galling of the seat. Oh? the washers are hard to find and hard to install; but you can make them.) I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake wholesale supply shop flare the lines. I don?t recall what I paid but it was not expensive and it was in and out the same day. John Spaur ?62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Jul 23 02:20:05 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2018 10:20:05 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: <000e01d4224d$3b6b9740$b242c5c0$@sbcglobal.net> Stainless steel brake lines are not always recommended. Some claim the s-s lines can fatigue crack. It is also hard to bend and flare. Supposedly best are Cunifer brake lines. Marine grade material first used in brake systems by Volvo in the 70?s I think. They are tough and do not corrode like the steel lines do. They are fit and forget. You can get complete made up sets, however they are usually packed in a roll and you have to bend the pipes yourself, but the lines are cut to the correct length, flares are already made up and the correct fittings already fitted.. The bending can be done by hand easily but ideally you need a bottle/pipe/tin/wheel/wood block with the right curve to prevent kinking. If you are very careful all can be done free hand. Copper lines are also offered, but generally not recommended as copper may harden, get brittle and fatigue crack. Very easy to bend and make up flares though. Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there is water ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e. wheel cylinders and can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1 and replace every 2 years. I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at the same time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant (blue/green). Kees Oudesluijs Op 23-7-2018 om 08:20 schreef John Spaur: > > Pipe bending is an art ?--and switch to stainless (If you decide to > use stainless steel be prepared for it. The flaring tools are > different! Single flares, you can succeed most of the time but quality > control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once or twice if you are > lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it don?t use SS unless > you have the right tools or have a shop flare the lines. You should > also install copper cone washers between the SS flare and the brake > line seat. It prevents galling of the seat. Oh? the washers are hard > to find and hard to install; but you can make them.) > > I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake wholesale > supply shop flare the lines. I don?t recall what I paid but it was not > expensive and it was in and out the same day. > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Mon Jul 23 07:06:49 2018 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2018 09:06:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line My search turned up the following Hygroscopic is the ability of a chemical compound to absorb or adsorb water. A hydroscope is a device, similar to a telescope built for observing things underwater. DOT 5 is a silicone-based fluid and is separate from the series of DOT 2, 3, 4, 5.1. It is immiscible with water, and with other brake fluids, and must not be mixed with them. Systems can only change fluid after a complete system changeover, such as a total restoration. It contains at least 70% by weight of a diorgano polysiloxane[3]. Unlike polyethylene glycol based fluids, Dot 5 is hydrophobic.[4] An advantage over other forms of brake fluid is that silicone has a more stable viscosity index over a wider temperature range. Another property is that it does not damage paint.[citation needed] Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: i erbs To: Don Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 2:20 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake line Silicone is hydroscpic too. I intend to replace all the lines and hoses. Brake and clutch rubber hoses have been replaced. Where do I get a prebent set for the 67 B I'm working on or my 100-6 for that matter? Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Sun, Jul 22, 2018, 11:00 PM Don Day wrote: My 2 cents , on a car and it?s parts over 50 years old . Start thinking about replacing all of the lines , along with the clutch line and oh the fuel line . And oh the oil gauge line also , cause when it goes your going to have oil all over your drivers floor. You can get a complete set of stainless steel lines, for all the above , pre bent , and replace them as needed . I did this to my 67 BJ-8 along with switching over to silicone brake fluid . Never have to worry about any issues with this kind of thing again . Good Luck , Don Sent from my iPad On Jul 22, 2018, at 10:53 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Hi Ira, Pipe bending is an art that I haven't really mastered, but I've done OK by pulling the old line, and using a brake pipe bending tool to replicate--or possibly improve--the original pipe routing. Steel brake line is cheap, so buy extra to practice with--it will probably take a couple tries to get it right--and switch to stainless or cunifer if you prefer after you get the hang of it. Oh, and don't forget to put the fittings on before you flare the ends; it's painful to get a couple flares just right then realize there are no fittings (someone told me that once). I think getting good flares is even trickier than bending. Based on the condition of that one line, I wouldn't trust any of the other brake lines in the car. Bob On 7/22/2018 2:35 PM, i erbs wrote: Finally getting to work on the 67 B I bought for my wife. Seller told me a metal brake line was cracked and leaking...turns out the someone tried to braise a patch on the line and it leaked. Any advice on bending the replacement line to match the old one? Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Mon Jul 23 07:24:47 2018 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2018 09:24:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line I prefer silicone brake fluid because it does not absorb water & it does not affect paint & does not require frequent replacement. If you have an ingress of water you already have a problem regardless of which fluid type you are using! If the water separates out, like you describe, you could simply expel it by bleeding the system. After you fix the source of the leak, of course. Gary Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there is water ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e. wheel cylinders and can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1 and replace every 2 years. I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at the same time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant (blue/green). -----Original Message----- From: Kees Oudesluijs To: healeys Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 4:15 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake line Stainless steel brake lines are not always recommended. Some claim the s-s lines can fatigue crack. It is also hard to bend and flare. Supposedly best are Cunifer brake lines. Marine grade material first used in brake systems by Volvo in the 70?s I think. They are tough and do not corrode like the steel lines do. They are fit and forget. You can get complete made up sets, however they are usually packed in a roll and you have to bend the pipes yourself, but the lines are cut to the correct length, flares are already made up and the correct fittings already fitted.. The bending can be done by hand easily but ideally you need a bottle/pipe/tin/wheel/wood block with the right curve to prevent kinking. If you are very careful all can be done free hand. Copper lines are also offered, but generally not recommended as copper may harden, get brittle and fatigue crack. Very easy to bend and make up flares though. Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there is water ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e. wheel cylinders and can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1 and replace every 2 years. I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at the same time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant (blue/green). Kees Oudesluijs Op 23-7-2018 om 08:20 schreef John Spaur: Pipe bending is an art ?--and switch to stainless (If you decide to use stainless steel be prepared for it. The flaring tools are different! Single flares, you can succeed most of the time but quality control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once or twice if you are lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it don?t use SS unless you have the right tools or have a shop flare the lines. You should also install copper cone washers between the SS flare and the brake line seat. It prevents galling of the seat. Oh? the washers are hard to find and hard to install; but you can make them.) I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake wholesale supply shop flare the lines. I don?t recall what I paid but it was not expensive and it was in and out the same day. John Spaur ?62 BT7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jul 23 08:03:34 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2018 07:03:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: <55D1F295-5A15-4783-9580-00180B89CC5D@yahoo.com> re: "Silicone is hydroscpic too." If you mean 'hyGroscopic,' I don't believe it is (try mixing a little DoT5 and water).? But, water can get in the lines in other ways and since DoT5 doesn't absorb it, it can pool in low spots, causing corrosion.? I've also noticed DoT5 turns from purple to clear or amber near the wheel cylinders--where the heat is--so I think it needs to get changed out, just not as often (every 5 years, maybe, instead of every 2-3 for glycol BF; you'll probably get into the brake/clutch system for some other reason anyway). Bob On 7/22/2018 11:16 PM, i erbs wrote: > Silicone is hydroscpic too. > I intend to replace all the lines and hoses. Brake and clutch rubber > hoses have been replaced. Where do I get a prebent set for the 67 B > I'm working on or my 100-6 for that matter? > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Sun, Jul 22, 2018, 11:00 PM Don Day > My 2 cents , on a car and it?s parts over 50 years old . Start > thinking about replacing all of the lines , along with the clutch > line and oh the fuel line . And oh the oil gauge line also , cause > when it goes your going to have oil all over your drivers floor. > ? You can get a complete set of stainless steel lines, for all the > above , pre bent , and replace them as needed . > ? ? ? ?I did this to my 67 BJ-8 along with switching over to > silicone brake fluid . Never have to worry about any issues with > this kind of thing again . > ? ? ? ? Good Luck , Don > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jul 22, 2018, at 10:53 PM, Bob Spidell >> Hi Ira, >> >> Pipe bending is an art that I haven't really mastered, but I've >> done OK by pulling the old line, and using a brake pipe bending >> tool to replicate--or possibly improve--the original pipe >> routing.? Steel brake line is cheap, so buy extra to practice >> with--it will probably take a couple tries to get it right--and >> switch to stainless or cunifer if you prefer after you get the >> hang of it.? Oh, and don't forget to put the fittings on before >> you flare the ends; it's painful to get a couple flares just >> right then realize there are no fittings (someone told me that >> once).? I think getting good flares is even trickier than bending. >> >> Based on the condition of that one line, I wouldn't trust any of >> the other brake lines in the car. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 7/22/2018 2:35 PM, i erbs wrote: >>> Finally getting to work on the 67 B I bought for my wife. Seller >>> told me a metal brake line was cracked and leaking...turns out >>> the someone tried to braise a patch on the line and it leaked. >>> Any advice on bending the replacement line to match the old one? >>> >>> Ira Erbs >>> Portland, OR >>> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jul 23 08:16:56 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2018 07:16:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: <000e01d4224d$3b6b9740$b242c5c0$@sbcglobal.net> Agree.? Anecdotally--I've only worked a bit with SS--I believe it to be harder and more brittle than mild steel.? A couple of cases: - when trying to get a gas-tight and permanent seal at the exhaust manifold to downpipe flange, I tried some SS studs from Doug Reid.? They seemed to snap off with less torque than the mild steel ones, which I ended up using - I was experimenting with safety wiring the set pins in my gearbox, and tried mild steel wire instead of SS and the SS wire broke more easily than the mild steel.? I used the SS anyway, as, well, it's good enough for the FAA (see photo) Bob On 7/22/2018 11:20 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > Pipe bending is an art ?--and switch to stainless (If you decide to > use stainless steel be prepared for it. The flaring tools are > different! Single flares, you can succeed most of the time but quality > control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once or twice if you are > lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it don?t use SS unless > you have the right tools or have a shop flare the lines. You should > also install copper cone washers between the SS flare and the brake > line seat. It prevents galling of the seat. Oh? the washers are hard > to find and hard to install; but you can make them.) > > I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake wholesale > supply shop flare the lines. I don?t recall what I paid but it was not > expensive and it was in and out the same day. > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Gearbox.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 125109 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Jul 23 09:19:21 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2018 17:19:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: <164c7505122-c95-6f1@webjas-vab172.srv.aolmail.net> Ingress of water is mainly from condensation in the brake fluid reservoir during storage and/or in periods of high humidity. You cannot avoid it. Kees Oudesluijs Op 23-7-2018 om 15:24 schreef warthodson at aol.com: > I prefer silicone brake fluid because it does not absorb water & it > does not affect paint & does not require frequent replacement. If you > have an ingress of water you already have a problem regardless of > which fluid type you are using! If the water separates out, like you > describe, you could simply expel it by bleeding the system. After you > fix the source of the leak, of course. > Gary > > Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there > is water ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e. > wheel cylinders and can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1 > and replace every 2 years. > I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at > the same time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant (blue/green). > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Kees Oudesluijs > To: healeys > Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 4:15 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake line > > Stainless steel brake lines are not always recommended. Some claim the > s-s lines can fatigue crack. It is also hard to bend and flare. > Supposedly best are Cunifer brake lines. Marine grade material first > used in brake systems by Volvo in the 70?s I think. They are tough and > do not corrode like the steel lines do. They are fit and forget. > You can get complete made up sets, however they are usually packed in > a roll and you have to bend the pipes yourself, but the lines are cut > to the correct length, flares are already made up and the correct > fittings already fitted.. The bending can be done by hand easily but > ideally you need a bottle/pipe/tin/wheel/wood block with the right > curve to prevent kinking. If you are very careful all can be done free > hand. > Copper lines are also offered, but generally not recommended as copper > may harden, get brittle and fatigue crack. Very easy to bend and make > up flares though. > Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there is > water ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e. wheel > cylinders and can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1 and > replace every 2 years. > I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at the > same time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant (blue/green). > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 23-7-2018 om 08:20 schreef John Spaur: > > Pipe bending is an art ?--and switch to stainless (If you decide > to use stainless steel be prepared for it. The flaring tools are > different! Single flares, you can succeed most of the time but > quality control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once or twice > if you are lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it don?t > use SS unless you have the right tools or have a shop flare the > lines. You should also install copper cone washers between the SS > flare and the brake line seat. It prevents galling of the seat. > Oh? the washers are hard to find and hard to install; but you can > make them.) > I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake > wholesale supply shop flare the lines. I don?t recall what I paid > but it was not expensive and it was in and out the same day. > John Spaur > ?62 BT7 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Mon Jul 23 12:59:58 2018 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2018 14:59:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line Bob, I worked in aviation for 47 years and did a lot of safety wiring with stainless safety wire. The secret is to not over twist the wire and make it brittle. Your twists per inch look just right. For what it's worth. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 2:15 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake line Agree.? Anecdotally--I've only worked a bit with SS--I believe it to be harder and more brittle than mild steel.? A couple of cases: - when trying to get a gas-tight and permanent seal at the exhaust manifold to downpipe flange, I tried some SS studs from Doug Reid.? They seemed to snap off with less torque than the mild steel ones, which I ended up using - I was experimenting with safety wiring the set pins in my gearbox, and tried mild steel wire instead of SS and the SS wire broke more easily than the mild steel.? I used the SS anyway, as, well, it's good enough for the FAA (see photo) Bob On 7/22/2018 11:20 PM, John Spaur wrote: Pipe bending is an art ?--and switch to stainless (If you decide to use stainless steel be prepared for it. The flaring tools are different! Single flares, you can succeed most of the time but quality control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once or twice if you are lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it don?t use SS unless you have the right tools or have a shop flare the lines. You should also install copper cone washers between the SS flare and the brake line seat. It prevents galling of the seat. Oh? the washers are hard to find and hard to install; but you can make them.) ? I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake wholesale supply shop flare the lines. I don?t recall what I paid but it was not expensive and it was in and out the same day. ? John Spaur ?62 BT7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jul 23 14:36:38 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2018 13:36:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake line References: <164c88329dc-c96-310a@webjas-vac140.srv.aolmail.net> Thanks, Larry.? It only took me about 5 times to get them right. The pins are also blue threadlocked, so I don't expect a problem. I've seen some done where people put a loop through the pin head and a couple turns on the anchor; I think at most that will prevent the pins from falling into the gears. Bob On 7/23/2018 11:59 AM, Larry Wendland wrote: > Bob, I worked in aviation for 47 years and did a lot of safety wiring with stainless safety wire. The secret is to not over twist the wire and make it brittle. Your twists per inch look just right. For what it's worth. > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys > Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 2:15 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake line > > > > Agree.? Anecdotally--I've only worked a bit with SS--I believe it to be harder and more brittle than mild steel.? A couple of cases: > > - when trying to get a gas-tight and permanent seal at the exhaust manifold to downpipe flange, I tried some SS studs from Doug Reid.? They seemed to snap off with less torque than the mild steel ones, which I ended up using > > - I was experimenting with safety wiring the set pins in my gearbox, and tried mild steel wire instead of SS and the SS wire broke more easily than the mild steel.? I used the SS anyway, as, well, it's good enough for the FAA (see photo) > > Bob > > > > > From steveg at abrazosdata.com Mon Jul 23 18:46:01 2018 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2018 16:46:01 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Brake_Line_-_suggestions?= I've built all my own brake lines and it is doable with a little practice and the tools and materials are not very expensive. Had the SS lines from the late Doug Reid and they work-harden and no longer seal after a couple of times tightening. I've done mild steel for practice and recommend cunifer. Federal Hill Trading is a great source for all info and supplies for building brake lines: http://store.fedhillusa.com/ Eastwood has good inexpensive 3/16" flaring tools. For pix see my gallery: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/tube_flaring_tools See my other galleries for more flaring. Also there are lots of YouTube videos on flaring. Also suggest Lisle tube bending pliers - can do tighter bends than the Harbor Freight tube benders. Search on amazon for: Lisle 44150 3/16" Tubing Bender Pliers -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 29D & 4wheel Disc Brakes Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jul 24 08:13:34 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2018 07:13:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line - suggestions References: <20180724004601.18174.qmail@hoster902.com> DO NOT use these: https://www.harborfreight.com/tube-bending-pliers-95782.html They put little nicks in the tubing, even after I cleaned up the sharp edges.? The Lisle tool looks good. I got a cunifer brake line set from Automec in the UK years ago. Quality and fit were excellent (looks like they still exclusively recommend silicone BF, BTW).? Example for BJ8: https://brakepipesets.com/products/brake-pipe-set-austin-healey-3000-mk3-lhd?variant=35836101457 IIRC, the lines to the reservoir and the clutch line were separate. NFI Bob On 7/23/2018 5:46 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > I've built all my own brake lines and it is doable with a little practice and the tools and materials are not very expensive. > > Had the SS lines from the late Doug Reid and they work-harden and no longer seal after a couple of times tightening. I've done mild steel for practice and recommend cunifer. > > Federal Hill Trading is a great source for all info and supplies for building brake lines: > http://store.fedhillusa.com/ > > Eastwood has good inexpensive 3/16" flaring tools. For pix see my gallery: > http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/tube_flaring_tools > > See my other galleries for more flaring. Also there are lots of YouTube videos on flaring. > > Also suggest Lisle tube bending pliers - can do tighter bends than the Harbor Freight tube benders. > Search on amazon for: Lisle 44150 3/16" Tubing Bender Pliers > > From kentmclean at comcast.net Tue Jul 24 09:54:43 2018 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2018 11:54:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] DIY coil springs If you?ve ever needed a no-longer-available or odd-sized small spring, here?s a quick intro on how to make your own. It requires a metal lathe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAawhg6JtyY - Kent McLean ?56 100 BN2 From banjojohn at cox.net Tue Jul 24 11:39:08 2018 From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2018 12:39:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line - suggestions When you are looking for tube benders, you might try O'Rielly's.? They have many specialty tools that they loan.? You buy them and then bring them back when finished and they give you a full refund.? Some have a time restriction on how long you can keep them but my local shop has been good about giving some extra time with no penalty.? I haven't checked on tube benders but it's that type of specialty tools they do it with.? Other auto parts shops might have similar programs also.John O'Brien'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)'61 Bugeye (Lucy) Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7. -------- Original message --------From: "Steve B. Gerow" Date: 7/23/18 7:46 PM (GMT-06:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Line - suggestions I've built all my own brake lines and it is doable with a little practice and the tools and materials are not very expensive. Had the SS lines from the late Doug Reid and they work-harden and no longer seal after a couple of times tightening. I've done mild steel for practice and recommend cunifer. Federal Hill Trading is a great source for all info and supplies for building brake lines: http://store.fedhillusa.com/ Eastwood has good inexpensive 3/16" flaring tools. For pix see my gallery: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/tube_flaring_tools See my other galleries for more flaring. Also there are lots of YouTube videos on flaring. Also suggest Lisle tube bending pliers - can do tighter bends than the Harbor Freight tube benders. Search on amazon for: Lisle 44150 3/16" Tubing Bender Pliers -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 29D & 4wheel Disc Brakes Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jul 24 12:50:39 2018 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2018 12:50:39 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Adjusting BN7 Steering Box References: <7B1F6E0E094D42E69CEC4BCFD2ADD602@Inspiron660> To send mail to healeys at autox.team.net, you send mail to healeys at autox.team.net -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: Adjusting BN7 Steering Box Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2018 10:36:24 -0700 From: Ron Fine To: Having recently rebuild the steering box with new cam bearings and races I am now struggling with adjusting the slack (or backlash) in the steering wheel.I thought that I had set the correct end float or preload on the bearings when I had the box out of the car.The steering wheel turned freely without any binding.Now with the steering box back in the car I have way too much slack even with the adjusting pin screwed down as far as it can go without totally binding and freezing the steering wheel. I suspect my earlier adjustment of the end float might not have been right so I am about to remove the front plate and see if adjusting the shims again will resolve this problem. Can anyone give me a suggestion for how to get this adjustment correct?I have read Norm Nock's Teck Talk book, and the Bentley book but there is not much guidance there. Is there any other method to confirm the correct adjustment other than trial and error? Thanks Ron Fine BN7 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jul 24 13:49:38 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2018 21:49:38 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line - suggestions References: <20180724174112.IZLA11711.eastrmfepo101.cox.net@eastrmimpo209.cox.net> Pipe benders are cheap and can be even cheaper on eBay. However if you are a bit careful using large tubes, bottles etc. you do not really need them. The trick is to do it slowly and watch carefully what is happening. Do not treat is as an afternoon job but take your time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 24-7-2018 om 19:39 schreef banjojohn: > When you are looking for tube benders, you might try O'Rielly's.? They > have many specialty tools that they loan.? You buy them and then bring > them back when finished and they give you a full refund.? Some have a > time restriction on how long you can keep them but my local shop has > been good about giving some extra time with no penalty.? I haven't > checked on tube benders but it's that type of specialty tools they do > it with.? Other auto parts shops might have similar programs also. > John O'Brien > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > '61 Bugeye (Lucy) > > > > Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7. > > -------- Original message -------- > From: "Steve B. Gerow" > Date: 7/23/18 7:46 PM (GMT-06:00) > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Line - suggestions > > I've built all my own brake lines and it is doable with a little > practice and the tools and materials are not very expensive. > > Had the SS lines from the late Doug Reid and they work-harden and no > longer seal after a couple of times tightening. I've done mild steel > for practice and recommend cunifer. > > Federal Hill Trading is a great source for all info and supplies for > building brake lines: > http://store.fedhillusa.com/ > > Eastwood has good inexpensive 3/16" flaring tools. For pix see my gallery: > http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/tube_flaring_tools > > See my other galleries for more flaring. Also there are lots of > YouTube videos on flaring. > > Also suggest Lisle tube bending pliers - can do tighter bends than the > Harbor Freight tube benders. > Search on amazon for: Lisle 44150 3/16" Tubing Bender Pliers > > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 29D & 4wheel Disc Brakes > Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jul 24 14:54:32 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2018 13:54:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line - suggestions References: <20180724174112.IZLA11711.eastrmfepo101.cox.net@eastrmimpo209.cox.net> Thanks I bought a simple radius tool and it worked fine Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Tue, Jul 24, 2018, 11:31 AM banjojohn wrote: > When you are looking for tube benders, you might try O'Rielly's. They > have many specialty tools that they loan. You buy them and then bring them > back when finished and they give you a full refund. Some have a time > restriction on how long you can keep them but my local shop has been good > about giving some extra time with no penalty. I haven't checked on tube > benders but it's that type of specialty tools they do it with. Other auto > parts shops might have similar programs also. > John O'Brien > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > '61 Bugeye (Lucy) > > > > Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7. > > -------- Original message -------- > From: "Steve B. Gerow" > Date: 7/23/18 7:46 PM (GMT-06:00) > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Line - suggestions > > I've built all my own brake lines and it is doable with a little practice > and the tools and materials are not very expensive. > > Had the SS lines from the late Doug Reid and they work-harden and no > longer seal after a couple of times tightening. I've done mild steel for > practice and recommend cunifer. > > Federal Hill Trading is a great source for all info and supplies for > building brake lines: > http://store.fedhillusa.com/ > > Eastwood has good inexpensive 3/16" flaring tools. For pix see my gallery: > http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/tube_flaring_tools > > See my other galleries for more flaring. Also there are lots of YouTube > videos on flaring. > > Also suggest Lisle tube bending pliers - can do tighter bends than the > Harbor Freight tube benders. > Search on amazon for: Lisle 44150 3/16" Tubing Bender Pliers > > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 29D & 4wheel Disc Brakes > Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Tue Jul 24 17:29:24 2018 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2018 17:29:24 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos References: <2CD0D5BB-7A9B-4BAE-A87F-114F4DCD8B3B@aol.com> I thought I'd share a few photos of the engine running in our BJ8. Photo 28 is taken near the front right headlight looking down. 29 is taken from above the right front wheel looking towards the radiator. 31 is from the same position looking down at the valve cover and distributor. I'd taken these when trying to find toe-frying hot spots in the foot-wells. Not the greatest photos, but interesting nevertheless. Bob -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 180624 - FLIR00028.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 43462 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 180624 - FLIR00029.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 47177 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 180624 - FLIR00031.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 39141 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Jul 24 19:26:29 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2018 21:26:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] An extra treat from French Lick Sometimes having a Healey in the garage is not enough. The grocery getter needed the Austin Healey face lift too! Looks cool and is subtle enough to tweak your brain a bit on first look. I did not find the owner in the parking lot to discuss but suspect he/she is a die hard Healey nut... Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2993.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 152464 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue Jul 24 20:24:05 2018 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2018 12:24:05 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] An extra treat from French Lick References: <7AB77843-21A1-4DE4-93E2-7E95554FAFD3@aol.com> ....now that is neat! Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Perry Small Sent: Wednesday, 25 July 2018 12:22 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] An extra treat from French Lick Sometimes having a Healey in the garage is not enough. The grocery getter needed the Austin Healey face lift too! Looks cool and is subtle enough to tweak your brain a bit on first look. I did not find the owner in the parking lot to discuss but suspect he/she is a die hard Healey nut... Perry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Wed Jul 25 08:14:59 2018 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2018 10:14:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LED light sockets References: <9306eb7b-b62c-fd66-074a-2dba0a8ca f15@comcast.net> Charlie ? thanks for the LED info. Question: would you know of sources other than Jeff Zorn / LBCarCo, for those of us who have had their fill? Thanks, Al Fuller '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2018 6:19 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED light sockets Fred, I don't think you need to change out the sockets. Check out Classic and Vintage Bulbs website at www.classicbulbs.com . He makes a lot of the bulbs that will fit old British cars. The USA dealer is Little British Car Co., lbcarco.com. Actually, I just checked the first link and it goes to lbcarco. If you can't find them there, email Jeff Zorn at lbcarco. He is an MGA owner, so he will know exactly what you are talking about. Charlie On 7/13/2018 7:10 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: Listers, I am converting all of the lighting on my 66 BJ 8, other than headlights, to LED bulbs. So far, everything has gone fine. The improved lighting/visability is great. I now discover that the speedo and the tach are screw base bulbs, not the wedge type bulb of the fuel and combo gauge. Does anyone have a source for an LED wedge bulb socket that fits the speedo and tach? Or is it possible to get a screwbase LED bulb that will fit the existing sockets? Moss does not carry a socket that fits anything but the high beam and alternator warning lights. What "size" is the actual screw base. On line there are varity of bases and i can't tell what i need. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jul 25 08:59:55 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2018 07:59:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LED light sockets References: <9306eb7b-b62c-fd66-074a-2dba0a8ca f15@comcast.net> <05f501d42421$e0034b60$a009e220$@bighealey.org> I got some running/brake light LEDs from these guys; very satisfied: https://litezupp.com/ Bob On 7/25/2018 7:14 AM, Al Fuller wrote: > > Charlie ? thanks for the LED info. > > Question: would you know of sources other than Jeff Zorn / LBCarCo, > for those of us who have had their fill? > > Thanks, > > Al Fuller > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Charlie Baldwin > *Sent:* Saturday, July 14, 2018 6:19 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] LED light sockets > > Fred, > > I don't think you need to change out the sockets.? Check out Classic > and Vintage Bulbs website at www.classicbulbs.com > . He makes a lot of the bulbs that will > fit old British cars. The USA dealer is Little British Car Co., > lbcarco.com. > > Actually, I just checked the first link and it goes to lbcarco.? If > you can't find them there, email Jeff Zorn at lbcarco.? He is an MGA > owner, so he will know exactly what you are talking about. > > Charlie > > On 7/13/2018 7:10 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > > Listers, > > I am converting all of the lighting on my 66 BJ 8, other than > headlights, to LED bulbs.? So far, everything has gone fine.? The > improved lighting/visability is great.? I now discover that the > speedo and the tach are screw base bulbs, not the wedge type bulb > of the fuel and combo gauge. > > Does anyone have a source for an LED wedge bulb socket that fits > the speedo and tach?? Or is it possible to get a screwbase LED > bulb that will fit the existing sockets?? Moss does not carry a > socket that fits anything but the high beam and alternator warning > lights. > > What "size" is the actual screw base.? On line there are varity of > bases and i can't tell what i need. > > Thanks, > > Fred > > 66 BJ8 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgcharlie at comcast.net Wed Jul 25 09:42:28 2018 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2018 11:42:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] LED light sockets References: <9306eb7b-b62c-fd66-074a-2dba0a8ca f15@comcast.net> <05f501d42421$e0034b60$a009e220$@bighealey.org> Al, The LEDs that I bought I got directly from the owner of Classic and Vintage Bulbs. He is from Australia, I think, but attends Fall Hershey where I found him. He owns British cars as does Jeff Zorn. You could go to the link I gave below and figure out what you need from that and then search the internet to find it elsewhere. The problem is that may not give you the correct base size for the screw in instrument bulbs, where Jeff at lbcarco knows what is correct. Let us know what you find. Charlie > On July 25, 2018 at 10:14 AM Al Fuller wrote: > > > Charlie ? thanks for the LED info. > > > > Question: would you know of sources other than Jeff Zorn / LBCarCo, for those of us who have had their fill? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Al Fuller > > > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin > Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2018 6:19 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED light sockets > > > > Fred, > > I don't think you need to change out the sockets. Check out Classic and Vintage Bulbs website athttp://www.classicbulbs.com . He makes a lot of the bulbs that will fit old British cars. The USA dealer is Little British Car Co., lbcarco.com. > > Actually, I just checked the first link and it goes to lbcarco. If you can't find them there, email Jeff Zorn at lbcarco. He is an MGA owner, so he will know exactly what you are talking about. > > Charlie > > > > On 7/13/2018 7:10 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > > > > > > Listers, > > > > > > > > I am converting all of the lighting on my 66 BJ 8, other than headlights, to LED bulbs. So far, everything has gone fine. The improved lighting/visability is great. I now discover that the speedo and the tach are screw base bulbs, not the wedge type bulb of the fuel and combo gauge. > > > > > > > > Does anyone have a source for an LED wedge bulb socket that fits the speedo and tach? Or is it possible to get a screwbase LED bulb that will fit the existing sockets? Moss does not carry a socket that fits anything but the high beam and alternator warning lights. > > > > > > > > What "size" is the actual screw base. On line there are varity of bases and i can't tell what i need. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > Fred > > > > 66 BJ8 > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Dayton21 at comcast.net Wed Jul 25 16:20:16 2018 From: Dayton21 at comcast.net (Mitch Simmons) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2018 18:20:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Caliper assembly grease What is the best caliper assembly grease to use? That I can source locally ? Thanks Mitchell Sent from my iPhone From banjojohn at cox.net Wed Jul 25 17:39:12 2018 From: banjojohn at cox.net (John) Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2018 18:39:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] LED light sockets References: <9306eb7b-b62c-fd66-074a-2dba0a8ca f15@comcast.net> Update:? I received the screw in base LED lights I ordered from Moss for my BJ8 tach and speedo gauges.? My car is negative ground.? They fit and work fine.? Gauges are much brighter and easier to see.? I got the "short" style which are flat on top. About $10 each. John O'Brien '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) '61 Bugeye (Lucy) On 7/25/2018 9:14 AM, Al Fuller wrote: > > Charlie ? thanks for the LED info. > > Question: would you know of sources other than Jeff Zorn / LBCarCo, > for those of us who have had their fill? > > Thanks, > > Al Fuller > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Charlie Baldwin > *Sent:* Saturday, July 14, 2018 6:19 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] LED light sockets > > Fred, > > I don't think you need to change out the sockets.? Check out Classic > and Vintage Bulbs website at www.classicbulbs.com > . He makes a lot of the bulbs that will > fit old British cars. The USA dealer is Little British Car Co., > lbcarco.com. > > Actually, I just checked the first link and it goes to lbcarco.? If > you can't find them there, email Jeff Zorn at lbcarco.? He is an MGA > owner, so he will know exactly what you are talking about. > > Charlie > > On 7/13/2018 7:10 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > > Listers, > > I am converting all of the lighting on my 66 BJ 8, other than > headlights, to LED bulbs.? So far, everything has gone fine.? The > improved lighting/visability is great.? I now discover that the > speedo and the tach are screw base bulbs, not the wedge type bulb > of the fuel and combo gauge. > > Does anyone have a source for an LED wedge bulb socket that fits > the speedo and tach?? Or is it possible to get a screwbase LED > bulb that will fit the existing sockets?? Moss does not carry a > socket that fits anything but the high beam and alternator warning > lights. > > What "size" is the actual screw base.? On line there are varity of > bases and i can't tell what i need. > > Thanks, > > Fred > > 66 BJ8 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Jul 26 01:56:17 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2018 09:56:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Caliper assembly grease References: <98EB1C81-1425-43D0-BFD5-23452800688B@comcast.net> At? (blue) or Girling (red), both available in a tube. You need very little, one tube will last you a life time. The one tube of At? brake assembly grease I bought was more than 40 years ago. It is nearly gone now after work on numerous cars, mainly because the aluminium tube has started to leak through a small crack. The stuff is still available today. I presume that there are other equivalent products across the pond, but I do not know the quality. I have also used it after cleaning up/rebuilding parts and then store them, so it also works as a rust preventive and it keeps the rubber seals healthy. It always worked perfectly for me. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-7-2018 om 00:20 schreef Mitch Simmons: > What is the best caliper assembly grease to use? > That I can source locally ? > Thanks > Mitchell > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > From al at bighealey.org Thu Jul 26 06:59:07 2018 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2018 08:59:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LED light sockets References: <9306eb7b-b62c-fd66-074a-2dba0a8ca f15@comcast.net> <05f501d42421$e0034b60$a009e220$@bighealey.org> <1151707220.264580.1532533348232@connect.xfinity.com> Thanks Charlie. I actually already have LEDs in the dash. Was just wondering about sources if looking for the other bulbs. No big deal. Al Fuller '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 11:42 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED light sockets Al, The LEDs that I bought I got directly from the owner of Classic and Vintage Bulbs. He is from Australia, I think, but attends Fall Hershey where I found him. He owns British cars as does Jeff Zorn. You could go to the link I gave below and figure out what you need from that and then search the internet to find it elsewhere. The problem is that may not give you the correct base size for the screw in instrument bulbs, where Jeff at lbcarco knows what is correct. Let us know what you find. Charlie Charlie ? thanks for the LED info. Question: would you know of sources other than Jeff Zorn / LBCarCo, for those of us who have had their fill? Thanks, Al Fuller '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2018 6:19 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED light sockets Fred, I don't think you need to change out the sockets. Check out Classic and Vintage Bulbs website at www.classicbulbs.com . He makes a lot of the bulbs that will fit old British cars. The USA dealer is Little British Car Co., lbcarco.com. Actually, I just checked the first link and it goes to lbcarco. If you can't find them there, email Jeff Zorn at lbcarco. He is an MGA owner, so he will know exactly what you are talking about. Charlie On 7/13/2018 7:10 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: Listers, I am converting all of the lighting on my 66 BJ 8, other than headlights, to LED bulbs. So far, everything has gone fine. The improved lighting/visability is great. I now discover that the speedo and the tach are screw base bulbs, not the wedge type bulb of the fuel and combo gauge. Does anyone have a source for an LED wedge bulb socket that fits the speedo and tach? Or is it possible to get a screwbase LED bulb that will fit the existing sockets? Moss does not carry a socket that fits anything but the high beam and alternator warning lights. What "size" is the actual screw base. On line there are varity of bases and i can't tell what i need. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Jul 26 09:57:15 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2018 08:57:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos References: <2CD0D5BB-7A9B-4BAE-A87F-114F4DCD8B3B@aol.com> <018701d423a6$28ce50a0$7a6af1e0$@ca> The interesting part that I see is that there is very little heat at the carbs, So that tells me that the problem everyone is chasing of overheating in the fuel in the carbs may not exist. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob England Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 4:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos I thought I'd share a few photos of the engine running in our BJ8. Photo 28 is taken near the front right headlight looking down. 29 is taken from above the right front wheel looking towards the radiator. 31 is from the same position looking down at the valve cover and distributor. I'd taken these when trying to find toe-frying hot spots in the foot-wells. Not the greatest photos, but interesting nevertheless. Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From engl at accesscomm.ca Thu Jul 26 14:17:12 2018 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2018 14:17:12 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos References: <2CD0D5BB-7A9B-4BAE-A87F-114F4DCD8B3B@aol.com> <018701d423a6$28ce50a0$7a6af1e0$@ca> <885AFCD6477C4A619062AD691D87075D@DavidNockHP> David I noticed that too - I figured the carbs would show warmer. If I remember I'm going to bring the unit home again this weekend and poke a bit more under the bonnet. Keep in mind that this is one car in one circumstance - the guys chasing the overheating issue might see something different with thermal images of their cars (it would be interesting to know). I must admit I have not been following an overheating carb thread. What is the issue? Maybe I should take some more thermal images around the carbs. Thanks. Bob -----Original Message----- From: David Nock BCS [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] Sent: July 26, 2018 9:57 AM To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos The interesting part that I see is that there is very little heat at the carbs, So that tells me that the problem everyone is chasing of overheating in the fuel in the carbs may not exist. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob England Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 4:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos I thought I'd share a few photos of the engine running in our BJ8. Photo 28 is taken near the front right headlight looking down. 29 is taken from above the right front wheel looking towards the radiator. 31 is from the same position looking down at the valve cover and distributor. I'd taken these when trying to find toe-frying hot spots in the foot-wells. Not the greatest photos, but interesting nevertheless. Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jul 26 15:56:32 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2018 17:56:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos References: <2CD0D5BB-7A9B-4BAE-A87F-114F4DCD8B3B@aol.com> <018701d423a6$28ce50a0$7a6af1e0$@ca> <885AFCD6477C4A619062AD691D87075D@DavidNockHP> <007f01d4251d$a5145740$ef3d05c0$@ca> Folks Before we get to excited about a cooler carb please consider what is happening in a running carburetor controlled engine. The carb acts like a swamp cooler. The vaporized fuel is mixing with air and the charge mixture is as cool as it gets before ignition in the combustion chamber. Ever notice little droplets of moisture on the exterior of the carb body when humidity and heat is just right? The real overheated carbs usually occurs when the airflow (radiator fan wash) over the engine is limited or restricted (read stuck in traffic or participating in the 4th of July parade). Worst case is when you shut down the engine and the engine begins the process of trying to make everything in the engine bay the same temperature. Hot! The photos do show the hottest areas on the engine, exhaust area and the head. Without airflow and vaporization in the carbs they rapidly begin to heat up. So does the fuel in the fuel bowls. How hot does it have to be to cause vapor lock? Just a few thoughts for consideration and comment? Perry From: Bob England Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 5:03 PM To: 'David Nock BCS'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos David I noticed that too - I figured the carbs would show warmer. If I remember I'm going to bring the unit home again this weekend and poke a bit more under the bonnet. Keep in mind that this is one car in one circumstance - the guys chasing the overheating issue might see something different with thermal images of their cars (it would be interesting to know). I must admit I have not been following an overheating carb thread. What is the issue? Maybe I should take some more thermal images around the carbs. Thanks. Bob -----Original Message----- From: David Nock BCS [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] Sent: July 26, 2018 9:57 AM To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos The interesting part that I see is that there is very little heat at the carbs, So that tells me that the problem everyone is chasing of overheating in the fuel in the carbs may not exist. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob England Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 4:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos I thought I'd share a few photos of the engine running in our BJ8. Photo 28 is taken near the front right headlight looking down. 29 is taken from above the right front wheel looking towards the radiator. 31 is from the same position looking down at the valve cover and distributor. I'd taken these when trying to find toe-frying hot spots in the foot-wells. Not the greatest photos, but interesting nevertheless. Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Thu Jul 26 16:04:09 2018 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2018 18:04:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical update References: Listers, A month or so ago I asked about an electrical issue I was having. It was a no start issue but the car would start with a jumper cable from the battery to the starter solenoid. After a great deal of testing, cussing and frustration, I found that with car jumped (see above) and the jumper cable removed, the battery was not being charged. I connected an 18 Gage wire to the battery and then to my volt meter and then to the solenoid. I was touching the battery post and the center of the cable connector at the solenoid. I would always get 12 volts before starting the car but the car would not start. I discovered that the battery solenoid cable was badly corroded inside the connector and not passing current from the center of the actual cable to the connector. So while I thought I had power thru the cable to the solenoid, I actually did not. I replaced the entire cable and the car started instantly. The battery was now also being recharged. When I removed the original battery cable I discovered that behind the panel the cable passes thru at the battery, had what appeared to be some sort of electrical choke. The "choke" is about 1 1/2" long and about 1" in diameter. This "choke" appears to be burned or at least overheated in some manner. I did not replace this"choke" and things seem fine. Anyone know what this"choke" is all about? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20180726_071620.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2226125 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jul 26 17:19:22 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2018 16:19:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos References: <2CD0D5BB-7A9B-4BAE-A87F-114F4DCD8B3B@aol.com> <018701d423a6$28ce50a0$7a6af1e0$@ca> <885AFCD6477C4A619062AD691D87075D@DavidNockHP> <007f01d4251d$a5145740$ef3d05c0$@ca> Both my BJ8 and BN2 will stumble for a mile or so after being shut down hot on a hot day and restarted within a half-hour hour or so.? Big $$$ on ceramic coat for the exhaust manifold didn't help much, if at all.? As soon as the temps come down the stumbling stops, so I can live with it.? I think it's due to fuel boiling in the carb bowls, or maybe the proverbial 'vapor lock.' Bob On 7/26/2018 1:17 PM, Bob England wrote: > David > > I noticed that too - I figured the carbs would show warmer. If I remember > I'm going to bring the unit home again this weekend and poke a bit more > under the bonnet. > > Keep in mind that this is one car in one circumstance - the guys chasing the > overheating issue might see something different with thermal images of their > cars (it would be interesting to know). > > I must admit I have not been following an overheating carb thread. What is > the issue? Maybe I should take some more thermal images around the carbs. > > Thanks. > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Nock BCS [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] > Sent: July 26, 2018 9:57 AM > To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos > > The interesting part that I see is that there is very little heat at the > carbs, So that tells me that the problem everyone is chasing of overheating > in the fuel in the carbs may not exist. > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob England > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 4:29 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos > > I thought I'd share a few photos of the engine running in our BJ8. > > Photo 28 is taken near the front right headlight looking down. 29 is taken > from above the right front wheel looking towards the radiator. 31 is from > the same position looking down at the valve cover and distributor. > > I'd taken these when trying to find toe-frying hot spots in the foot-wells. > Not the greatest photos, but interesting nevertheless. > > Bob > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > From roggrace at telus.net Thu Jul 26 18:50:54 2018 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2018 17:50:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electrical update References: iqOGfk0KZttF2iqOIfahCR Looks to me not to be a ?choke? but rather a moulded join in the cable ? by perhaps a previous owner ? BTW just being a little pedantic ?chokes? are used with AC current only; there is no reason to install a resistor - you want minimum volt drop from batt. to solenoid as you discovered. rg From: Fred Wescoe Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 3:04 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Electrical update Listers, A month or so ago I asked about an electrical issue I was having. It was a no start issue but the car would start with a jumper cable from the battery to the starter solenoid. After a great deal of testing, cussing and frustration, I found that with car jumped (see above) and the jumper cable removed, the battery was not being charged. I connected an 18 Gage wire to the battery and then to my volt meter and then to the solenoid. I was touching the battery post and the center of the cable connector at the solenoid. I would always get 12 volts before starting the car but the car would not start. I discovered that the battery solenoid cable was badly corroded inside the connector and not passing current from the center of the actual cable to the connector. So while I thought I had power thru the cable to the solenoid, I actually did not. I replaced the entire cable and the car started instantly. The battery was now also being recharged. When I removed the original battery cable I discovered that behind the panel the cable passes thru at the battery, had what appeared to be some sort of electrical choke. The "choke" is about 1 1/2" long and about 1" in diameter. This "choke" appears to be burned or at least overheated in some manner. I did not replace this"choke" and things seem fine. Anyone know what this"choke" is all about? Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Fri Jul 27 01:47:10 2018 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2018 07:47:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 original Tecalemit type oil filter References: <1212268877.3070048.1532677630202.ref@mail.yahoo.com> It was time to change the oil and filter again. As usual i had trouble getting a seal between the top and body of the filter holder. Simply, neither of the two supplied o rings are the correct size. Also as usual in my haste to get the car back on the road i neglected to take dimensions of the groove in the filter head which would enable me to get hold of the correct size o ring. Does anyone have a note of the correct o ring size? Having eventually achieved a seal with a combination of good luck and instant gasket, I am loathe to take it all apart again but would love to make the job easier for next time! I am not keen to change to a spin off filter. Mike Brooks56 BN2Scotland Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Fri Jul 27 08:45:33 2018 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2018 08:45:33 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos References: <2CD0D5BB-7A9B-4BAE-A87F-114F4DCD8B3B@aol.com> <018701d423a6$28ce50a0$7a6af1e0$@ca> <885AFCD6477C4A619062AD691D87075D@DavidNockHP> <007f01d4251d$a5145740$ef3d05c0$@ca> <96e292ce-8f3b-54ae-c49c-0d4181bcf981@comcast.net> Come to think of it, I had the same issue on my very first vehicle (1976 Chevyvan) after a long drive in hot weather. The van would have to sit for 1/2 then would start as if nothing happened. As to the pictures, these were taken after a short drive (5 miles or so), and of course the bonnet was up for a few minutes. Different conditions than a long drive on a hot day so I'm thinking the pictures would likely show different. Other Bob -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: July 26, 2018 5:19 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos Both my BJ8 and BN2 will stumble for a mile or so after being shut down hot on a hot day and restarted within a half-hour hour or so. Big $$$ on ceramic coat for the exhaust manifold didn't help much, if at all. As soon as the temps come down the stumbling stops, so I can live with it. I think it's due to fuel boiling in the carb bowls, or maybe the proverbial 'vapor lock.' Bob On 7/26/2018 1:17 PM, Bob England wrote: > David > > I noticed that too - I figured the carbs would show warmer. If I remember > I'm going to bring the unit home again this weekend and poke a bit more > under the bonnet. > > Keep in mind that this is one car in one circumstance - the guys chasing the > overheating issue might see something different with thermal images of their > cars (it would be interesting to know). > > I must admit I have not been following an overheating carb thread. What is > the issue? Maybe I should take some more thermal images around the carbs. > > Thanks. > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Nock BCS [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] > Sent: July 26, 2018 9:57 AM > To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos > > The interesting part that I see is that there is very little heat at the > carbs, So that tells me that the problem everyone is chasing of overheating > in the fuel in the carbs may not exist. > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob England > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 4:29 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos > > I thought I'd share a few photos of the engine running in our BJ8. > > Photo 28 is taken near the front right headlight looking down. 29 is taken > from above the right front wheel looking towards the radiator. 31 is from > the same position looking down at the valve cover and distributor. > > I'd taken these when trying to find toe-frying hot spots in the foot-wells. > Not the greatest photos, but interesting nevertheless. > > Bob > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Fri Jul 27 09:05:53 2018 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Rossm) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2018 09:05:53 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Propshaft There is a small hole on the front end of the propshaft. When the propshaft compresses grease comes out. Is there supposed to be a plug in there? Thx -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1196.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 824071 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Jul 27 11:08:35 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2018 13:08:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Propshaft References: <3276824D-1DBB-4BB0-871C-B2650B09AC3A@shaw.ca> It's a vent hole; no plug. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/27/2018 11:05 AM, Rossm wrote: > There is a small hole on the front end of the propshaft. When the propshaft compresses grease comes out. Is there supposed to be a plug in there? > Thx > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From javrugtman at htcnet.org Fri Jul 27 11:24:28 2018 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2018 13:24:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Propshaft References: <3276824D-1DBB-4BB0-871C-B2650B09AC3A@shaw.ca> no On 7/27/2018 11:05 AM, Rossm wrote: > There is a small hole on the front end of the propshaft. When the propshaft compresses grease comes out. Is there supposed to be a plug in there? > Thx > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Jul 27 12:44:20 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2018 11:44:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Propshaft References: <3276824D-1DBB-4BB0-871C-B2650B09AC3A@shaw.ca> No that is there to allow excess grease to escape as well as air to come in and out so there isnt a vacuum inside the slip joint. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Rossm Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 8:05 AM To: Forum Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Propshaft There is a small hole on the front end of the propshaft. When the propshaft compresses grease comes out. Is there supposed to be a plug in there? Thx Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Fri Jul 27 14:38:34 2018 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Rossm) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2018 14:38:34 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Propshaft follow up. Thanks everyone for the quick replies. The hole in the front end of the propshaft is the breather as many of you reminded me. I think I knew this years ago when I assembled it the first time. There goes the memory! Cheers Ross Sent from my iPhone From john.davidson at avtrak.ca Fri Jul 27 16:01:42 2018 From: john.davidson at avtrak.ca (John Davidson) Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2018 17:01:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Propshaft References: <3276824D-1DBB-4BB0-871C-B2650B09AC3A@shaw.ca> There is a SMALL grease nipple that screws in for lubricating the universal joint. Fit the grease nipple and rotate the drive shaft to confirm that the grease nipple does not interfere with the u-joints John R Davidson, P. Eng. H (204) 895-4523; C (204) 295-9207 On 2018-07-27 12:08 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > It's a vent hole; no plug. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 07/27/2018 11:05 AM, Rossm wrote: >> There is a small hole on the front end of the propshaft. When the >> propshaft compresses grease comes out. Is there supposed to be a plug >> in there? >> Thx >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john.davidson at avtrak.ca > From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Jul 28 05:28:03 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2018 12:28:03 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Hi, Did Rudd do a 2"set of intake manifolds or were there only ever 1.75"?? May be a set near me. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sat Jul 28 17:00:42 2018 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2018 11:00:42 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed References: <000201d42666$0d641710$282c4530$@alexarevel.plus.com> Simon, Only 1.75 inch as far as I know - for the HD6 carbs. I think he made them for Healey 3000s and Mk II Ford Zephyrs only. I have a Rudd centre intake manifold on my shelf. I wish I had the other two. Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com [mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com] Sent: Saturday, 28 July 2018 11:28 p.m. To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Hi, Did Rudd do a 2"set of intake manifolds or were there only ever 1.75"?? May be a set near me. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Jul 28 18:06:43 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2018 20:06:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed References: <000201d42666$0d641710$282c4530$@alexarevel.plus.com> Simon Not sure about the original specs on the Rudd Speed manifolds as I can not find an original advertisement or catalog. But notice the car below is using HD8 carbs. Maybe the HD6 manifolds were hogged out to fit the HD8?s. This post will probably not make it to the Healey list as I am having trouble posting there. Perry notice the car below is using HD8 carbs. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2018 8:00 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Hi, Did Rudd do a 2?set of intake manifolds or were there only ever 1.75??? May be a set near me? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 5951AFFE0D1943818EDE37FBC401D7B5.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196463 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sun Jul 29 03:55:36 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2018 10:55:36 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Rear hub nut See eBay item 122858890736 I guess that this is the 2-3/16" that we all look for from time to time. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From autofarm at wightman.ca Sun Jul 29 05:01:56 2018 From: autofarm at wightman.ca (Auto Farm) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2018 07:01:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed References: <000201d42666$0d641710$282c4530$@alexarevel.plus.com> <20180729005335.5DC612588661@autox.team.net> Perry, the L/H clearer picture certainly shows HD8?s, but the other picture looks more like HD6?s. The neck on the bell looks longer and the screw fasteners have different spacing. The fuel supply is different also, not that it would matter. Cheers?.Bob From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry Sent: July-28-18 8:07 PM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Simon Not sure about the original specs on the Rudd Speed manifolds as I can not find an original advertisement or catalog. But notice the car below is using HD8 carbs. Maybe the HD6 manifolds were hogged out to fit the HD8?s. This post will probably not make it to the Healey list as I am having trouble posting there. Perry scan0579notice the car below is using HD8 carbs. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2018 8:00 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Hi, Did Rudd do a 2?set of intake manifolds or were there only ever 1.75??? May be a set near me? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196463 bytes Desc: not available URL: From allan-peters at sky.com Sun Jul 29 12:44:59 2018 From: allan-peters at sky.com (allan-peters at sky.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2018 18:44:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 chassis Rails. References: <722078831.4617435.1532889900003.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi? All,??? ? ? ? ?Looking for repair sections of? chassis rail capping with the centre weld to reinforce weak sections of? jacking damage.Can only find box sections of chassis,but am sure at one time it was possible to get just a capping.? ? ? ? ? Or am i being? dillusional !!!!!!!!!!!!Any pointers welcome,? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Allan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sun Jul 29 14:22:27 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2018 13:22:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 chassis Rails. References: <722078831.4617435.1532889900003.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <722078831.4617435.1532889900003@mail.yahoo.com> Yes they are available. Contact me at the shop on Monday. British Car specialists Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 29, 2018, at 11:44 AM, "allan-peters at sky.com" wrote: > > Hi All, > Looking for repair sections of chassis rail capping with the centre weld to reinforce weak sections of jacking damage. > Can only find box sections of chassis,but am sure at one time it was possible to get just a capping. > Or am i being dillusional !!!!!!!!!!!! > Any pointers welcome, > Allan > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jul 29 14:42:15 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2018 20:42:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 chassis Rails. References: <722078831.4617435.1532889900003.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <722078831.4617435.1532889900003@mail.yahoo.com> Had to be made by a very skilled welder to remove the cancer on the bottom of the rails on my BN2 when I started the restoration.? I don't think there are surface sections available. Mike MacLean On Sunday, July 29, 2018 1:12 PM, "allan-peters at sky.com" wrote: Hi? All,??? ? ? ? ?Looking for repair sections of? chassis rail capping with the centre weld to reinforce weak sections of? jacking damage.Can only find box sections of chassis,but am sure at one time it was possible to get just a capping.? ? ? ? ? Or am i being? dillusional !!!!!!!!!!!!Any pointers welcome,? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Allan_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCF0022.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 119117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sun Jul 29 14:43:08 2018 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2018 16:43:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 chassis Rails. References: <722078831.4617435.1532889900003.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <722078831.4617435.1532889900003@mail.yahoo.com> repaired mine (BJ8) using steel bent by my local machine shop. On 7/29/2018 2:44 PM, allan-peters at sky.com wrote: > Hi? All, > ? ? ? ? ?Looking for repair sections of? chassis rail capping with the > centre weld to reinforce weak sections of? jacking damage. > Can only find box sections of chassis,but am sure at one time it was > possible to get just a capping. > ? ? ? ? ? Or am i being? dillusional !!!!!!!!!!!! > Any pointers welcome, > ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Allan > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sun Jul 29 16:31:30 2018 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 10:31:30 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed References: <000201d42666$0d641710$282c4530$@alexarevel.plus.com> <20180729005335.5DC612588661@autox.team.net> <001801d4272b$94639c20$bd2ad460$@ca> Bob, Perry and Simon, Back in the early eighties when Bill Bolton owned number 171 I took photos of it at his Oregon home. It definitely ran HD6s back then, as the photo below clearly shows. I've seen it in recent years under different ownership. I was saddened at what has been done to it. Some of its history had been stripped away. Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: Auto Farm [mailto:autofarm at wightman.ca] Sent: Sunday, 29 July 2018 11:02 p.m. To: 'Perry'; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Perry, the L/H clearer picture certainly shows HD8's, but the other picture looks more like HD6's. The neck on the bell looks longer and the screw fasteners have different spacing. The fuel supply is different also, not that it would matter. Cheers..Bob From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry Sent: July-28-18 8:07 PM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Simon Not sure about the original specs on the Rudd Speed manifolds as I can not find an original advertisement or catalog. But notice the car below is using HD8 carbs. Maybe the HD6 manifolds were hogged out to fit the HD8's. This post will probably not make it to the Healey list as I am having trouble posting there. Perry scan0579notice the car below is using HD8 carbs. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2018 8:00 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Hi, Did Rudd do a 2"set of intake manifolds or were there only ever 1.75"?? May be a set near me. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196463 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 60469 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Jul 29 18:22:18 2018 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 00:22:18 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Stuff!! To all those who responded to my original post, I apologize. The visit of our grandson has taken up most of maytime and energy, as he just turned two!! I will get back with all next weekend. Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ Unbelievable German World War 2 Photo Shocks Americans pro.naturalhealthresponse.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5b5e5a7b4a6415a7b35f9st01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Jul 29 20:44:02 2018 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 12:44:02 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Boston delivered BN6 Hello A friend is coming to the end of a restoration of a BN6 that was sold new in Boston. He would like to find any information on the car and I suggested his first contact should be the local Austin-Healey club. Would someone please tell me what AH club covers Boston and environs? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Jul 30 03:41:25 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 05:41:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Boston delivered BN6 References: <00c601d427af$2e6889b0$8b399d10$@tpg.com.au> Patrick, Northeast Region of AHCA or otherwise known as AHC of New England. Gary Feldman is the current 100-6 registrar for AHCA. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/29/2018 10:44 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello > > A friend is coming to the end of a restoration of a BN6 that was sold > new in Boston. > > He would like to find any information on the car and I suggested his > first contact should be the local Austin-Healey club. > > Would someone please tell me what AH club covers Boston and environs? > > Many thanks > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Jul 30 05:46:07 2018 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 07:46:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Boston delivered BN6 References: <00c601d427af$2e6889b0$8b399d10$@tpg.com.au> I'm a member of the Austin-Healey Club of New England and live near Boston. Be happy to help, but there's not much chance of finding any more info as there are no public records of past vehicle ownership in Massachusetts. Rick Neville On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 6:40 AM Bob Haskell wrote: > Patrick, > > Northeast Region of AHCA or otherwise known as AHC of New England. > > Gary Feldman is the current 100-6 registrar for AHCA. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 07/29/2018 10:44 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Hello > > > > A friend is coming to the end of a restoration of a BN6 that was sold > > new in Boston. > > > > He would like to find any information on the car and I suggested his > > first contact should be the local Austin-Healey club. > > > > Would someone please tell me what AH club covers Boston and environs? > > > > Many thanks > > > > Patrick Quinn > > > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Jul 30 07:15:29 2018 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 13:15:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Boston delivered BN6 References: <00c601d427af$2e6889b0$8b399d10$@tpg.com.au> Patrick, There is also the Austin-Healey Sports and Touring Club that covers a lot of members on the Eastern seaboard. Their website is: www.austin-healey-stc.org Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2018 9:44:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Boston delivered BN6 Hello A friend is coming to the end of a restoration of a BN6 that was sold new in Boston. He would like to find any information on the car and I suggested his first contact should be the local Austin-Healey club. Would someone please tell me what AH club covers Boston and environs? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Mon Jul 30 07:53:02 2018 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 13:53:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 chassis Rails. References: <722078831.4617435.1532889900003.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <722078831.4617435.1532889900003@mail.yahoo.com> On Sunday, July 29, 2018, 3:39:19 PM PDT, John Vrugtman wrote: repaired mine (BJ8) using steel bent by my local machine shop. ....Made my own with a Harbor Freight Sheet Metal Brake and some 14 gauge sheet ... Its just a straight section w/ a 90 degree bend (approx 3/8 wide) ..clamp in place, edge weld seam to match existing height Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jul 30 15:16:07 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 14:16:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 350 mile 1980 MGB GT http://cathedral-classics.com/car/mg-b-gt-1980/# amazing time capsul Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmcharris at hotmail.com Mon Jul 30 15:29:54 2018 From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 21:29:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 chassis rails References: I have new rear rails for a BN2 ( Kilmartin ). Available for PU in So Cal ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, July 30, 2018 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 234 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives.. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email to healeys at autox.team.net. or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. 100-4 chassis Rails. (allan-peters at sky.com) 2. Re: 100-4 chassis Rails. (David Nock) 3. Re: 100-4 chassis Rails. (Michael MacLean) 4. Re: 100-4 chassis Rails. (John Vrugtman) 5. Re: Ruddspeed (Mark Donaldson) 6. Re: Stuff!! (dwflagg at juno.com) 7. Boston delivered BN6 (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) 8. Re: Boston delivered BN6 (Bob Haskell) 9. Re: Boston delivered BN6 (HealeyRick) 10. Re: Boston delivered BN6 (Jean Caron) 11. Re: 100-4 chassis Rails. (jim) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2018 18:44:59 +0000 (UTC) From: "allan-peters at sky.com" To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 chassis Rails. Hi? All,??? ? ? ? ?Looking for repair sections of? chassis rail capping with the centre weld to reinforce weak sections of? jacking damage.Can only find box sections of chassis,but am sure at one time it was possible to get just a capping.? ? ? ? ? Or am i being? dillusional !!!!!!!!!!!!Any pointers welcome,? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Allan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2018 13:22:27 -0700 From: David Nock To: "allan-peters at sky.com" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 chassis Rails. Yes they are available. Contact me at the shop on Monday. British Car specialists Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 29, 2018, at 11:44 AM, "allan-peters at sky.com" wrote: > > Hi All, > Looking for repair sections of chassis rail capping with the centre weld to reinforce weak sections of jacking damage. > Can only find box sections of chassis,but am sure at one time it was possible to get just a capping. > Or am i being dillusional !!!!!!!!!!!! > Any pointers welcome, > Allan > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2018 20:42:15 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: "allan-peters at sky.com" , "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 chassis Rails. Had to be made by a very skilled welder to remove the cancer on the bottom of the rails on my BN2 when I started the restoration.? I don't think there are surface sections available. Mike MacLean On Sunday, July 29, 2018 1:12 PM, "allan-peters at sky.com" wrote: Hi? All,??? ? ? ? ?Looking for repair sections of? chassis rail capping with the centre weld to reinforce weak sections of? jacking damage.Can only find box sections of chassis,but am sure at one time it was possible to get just a capping.? ? ? ? ? Or am i being? dillusional !!!!!!!!!!!!Any pointers welcome,? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Allan_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCF0022.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 119117 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2018 16:43:08 -0400 From: John Vrugtman To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 chassis Rails. repaired mine (BJ8) using steel bent by my local machine shop. On 7/29/2018 2:44 PM, allan-peters at sky.com wrote: > Hi? All, > ? ? ? ? ?Looking for repair sections of? chassis rail capping with the > centre weld to reinforce weak sections of? jacking damage. > Can only find box sections of chassis,but am sure at one time it was > possible to get just a capping. > ? ? ? ? ? Or am i being? dillusional !!!!!!!!!!!! > Any pointers welcome, > ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Allan > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 10:31:30 +1200 From: "Mark Donaldson" To: "'Auto Farm'" , Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Bob, Perry and Simon, Back in the early eighties when Bill Bolton owned number 171 I took photos of it at his Oregon home. It definitely ran HD6s back then, as the photo below clearly shows. I've seen it in recent years under different ownership. I was saddened at what has been done to it. Some of its history had been stripped away. Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: Auto Farm [mailto:autofarm at wightman.ca] Sent: Sunday, 29 July 2018 11:02 p.m. To: 'Perry'; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Perry, the L/H clearer picture certainly shows HD8's, but the other picture looks more like HD6's. The neck on the bell looks longer and the screw fasteners have different spacing. The fuel supply is different also, not that it would matter. Cheers..Bob From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry Sent: July-28-18 8:07 PM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Simon Not sure about the original specs on the Rudd Speed manifolds as I can not find an original advertisement or catalog. But notice the car below is using HD8 carbs. Maybe the HD6 manifolds were hogged out to fit the HD8's. This post will probably not make it to the Healey list as I am having trouble posting there. Perry scan0579notice the car below is using HD8 carbs. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2018 8:00 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Hi, Did Rudd do a 2"set of intake manifolds or were there only ever 1.75"?? May be a set near me. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196463 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 60469 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 00:22:18 GMT From: "dwflagg at juno.com" To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stuff!! To all those who responded to my original post, I apologize. The visit of our grandson has taken up most of maytime and energy, as he just turned two!! I will get back with all next weekend. Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ Unbelievable German World War 2 Photo Shocks Americans pro.naturalhealthresponse.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5b5e5a7b4a6415a7b35f9st01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 12:44:02 +1000 From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" To: Subject: [Healeys] Boston delivered BN6 Hello A friend is coming to the end of a restoration of a BN6 that was sold new in Boston. He would like to find any information on the car and I suggested his first contact should be the local Austin-Healey club. Would someone please tell me what AH club covers Boston and environs? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 05:41:25 -0400 From: Bob Haskell To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn , healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Boston delivered BN6 Patrick, Northeast Region of AHCA or otherwise known as AHC of New England. Gary Feldman is the current 100-6 registrar for AHCA. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/29/2018 10:44 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello > > A friend is coming to the end of a restoration of a BN6 that was sold > new in Boston. > > He would like to find any information on the car and I suggested his > first contact should be the local Austin-Healey club. > > Would someone please tell me what AH club covers Boston and environs? > > Many thanks > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 07:46:07 -0400 From: HealeyRick To: Bob Haskell Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Boston delivered BN6 Message-ID: I'm a member of the Austin-Healey Club of New England and live near Boston. Be happy to help, but there's not much chance of finding any more info as there are no public records of past vehicle ownership in Massachusetts. Rick Neville On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 6:40 AM Bob Haskell wrote: > Patrick, > > Northeast Region of AHCA or otherwise known as AHC of New England. > > Gary Feldman is the current 100-6 registrar for AHCA. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 07/29/2018 10:44 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Hello > > > > A friend is coming to the end of a restoration of a BN6 that was sold > > new in Boston. > > > > He would like to find any information on the car and I suggested his > > first contact should be the local Austin-Healey club. > > > > Would someone please tell me what AH club covers Boston and environs? > > > > Many thanks > > > > Patrick Quinn > > > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 13:15:29 +0000 From: Jean Caron To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn , "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Boston delivered BN6 Message-ID: Patrick, There is also the Austin-Healey Sports and Touring Club that covers a lot of members on the Eastern seaboard. Their website is: www.austin-healey-stc.org> Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2018 9:44:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Boston delivered BN6 Hello A friend is coming to the end of a restoration of a BN6 that was sold new in Boston. He would like to find any information on the car and I suggested his first contact should be the local Austin-Healey club. Would someone please tell me what AH club covers Boston and environs? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 13:53:02 +0000 (UTC) From: jim To: healeys at autox.team.net, John Vrugtman Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 chassis Rails. On Sunday, July 29, 2018, 3:39:19 PM PDT, John Vrugtman wrote: repaired mine (BJ8) using steel bent by my local machine shop. ....Made my own with a Harbor Freight Sheet Metal Brake and some 14 gauge sheet ... Its just a straight section w/ a 90 degree bend (approx 3/8 wide) ..clamp in place, edge weld seam to match existing height Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 234 **************************************** [https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif] Virus-free. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jul 30 17:12:43 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 23:12:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 350 mile 1980 MGB GT References: Hopefully more horsepower (50 BHP approx.) than it's US counterpart.? US version had the lousy Solex carbs and tons of smog equipment to choke it off.? I don't see the outer graphics of the 80 Limited Edition model.? That would have been one of 520. Mike MacLean On Monday, July 30, 2018 3:48 PM, i erbs wrote: http://cathedral-classics.com/car/mg-b-gt-1980/#amazing time capsul Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB ? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Mon Jul 30 23:19:51 2018 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 01:19:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos References: <2CD0D5BB-7A9B-4BAE-A87F-114F4DCD8B3B@aol.com> <018701d423a6$28ce50a0$7a6af1e0$@ca> <885AFCD6477C4A619062AD691D87075D@DavidNockHP> <007f01d4251d$a5145740$ef3d05c0$@ca> <20180727000153.B14AA2589A59@autox.team.net> So Perry, if your analysis is correct, then the use of an electric fan pushing air through the radiator, combined with an air deflector underneath the radiator directing air from below into the fan and the engine compartment provides sufficient air flow over the engine to keep the carbs cool enough to keep them from overheating? In addition, the fan should be kept operating while stalled in traffic and say 5 minutes before shutting down the ignition? The fan seems to be the most used application, while the deflector and the bilge fan directing air directly to the carbs seems to be the next most effective application. I will let the list know when I get my BJ8 running as it will have the fan operating with a control on the dash board and the deflector underneath the radiator deflecting the air into the engine. By the way, I have a friend who used an inline electric fuel pump near the carbs controlled with an on/off switch on the dash to increase the pressure to the carbs while in traffic, along with a radiator fan on his Triumph and never had a problem. That application could be a 4th in a series of how to solve the problem of overheating and vapor lock. Bob Begani 67 BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 5:57 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos Folks Before we get to excited about a cooler carb please consider what is happening in a running carburetor controlled engine. The carb acts like a swamp cooler. The vaporized fuel is mixing with air and the charge mixture is as cool as it gets before ignition in the combustion chamber. Ever notice little droplets of moisture on the exterior of the carb body when humidity and heat is just right? The real overheated carbs usually occurs when the airflow (radiator fan wash) over the engine is limited or restricted (read stuck in traffic or participating in the 4th of July parade). Worst case is when you shut down the engine and the engine begins the process of trying to make everything in the engine bay the same temperature. Hot! The photos do show the hottest areas on the engine, exhaust area and the head. Without airflow and vaporization in the carbs they rapidly begin to heat up. So does the fuel in the fuel bowls. How hot does it have to be to cause vapor lock? Just a few thoughts for consideration and comment? Perry Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 5:03 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos David I noticed that too - I figured the carbs would show warmer. If I remember I'm going to bring the unit home again this weekend and poke a bit more under the bonnet. Keep in mind that this is one car in one circumstance - the guys chasing the overheating issue might see something different with thermal images of their cars (it would be interesting to know). I must admit I have not been following an overheating carb thread. What is the issue? Maybe I should take some more thermal images around the carbs. Thanks. Bob -----Original Message----- From: David Nock BCS [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] Sent: July 26, 2018 9:57 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos The interesting part that I see is that there is very little heat at the carbs, So that tells me that the problem everyone is chasing of overheating in the fuel in the carbs may not exist. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob England Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 4:29 PM Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos I thought I'd share a few photos of the engine running in our BJ8. Photo 28 is taken near the front right headlight looking down. 29 is taken from above the right front wheel looking towards the radiator. 31 is from the same position looking down at the valve cover and distributor. I'd taken these when trying to find toe-frying hot spots in the foot-wells. Not the greatest photos, but interesting nevertheless. Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Jul 31 03:45:15 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 05:45:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 350 mile 1980 MGB GT References: <2083168505.1082643.1532992363546@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, The US version had a Stromberg carb with a water choke, not Solex. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/30/2018 07:12 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Hopefully more horsepower (50 BHP approx.) than it's US counterpart.? US > version had the lousy Solex carbs and tons of smog equipment to choke it > off.? I don't see the outer graphics of the 80 Limited Edition model. > That would have been one of 520. > Mike MacLean > > > On Monday, July 30, 2018 3:48 PM, i erbs wrote: > > > http://cathedral-classics.com/car/mg-b-gt-1980/# > amazing time capsul > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ > ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) > ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Jul 31 04:23:08 2018 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 04:23:08 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos Historically speaking, Datsun 6 cylinder engines had the same issue. Their solution was a small fan with aimed ducts that straddled the valve cover and blew air directly on the carbs. I believe it was controlled by a simple temperature sensor. Dave On July 30, 2018, at 11:19 PM, Robert Begani wrote: So Perry, if your analysis is correct, then the use of an electric fan pushing air through the radiator, combined with an air deflector underneath the radiator directing air from below into the fan and the engine compartment provides sufficient air flow over the engine to keep the carbs cool enough to keep them from overheating?? In addition, the fan should be kept operating while stalled in traffic and say 5 minutes before shutting down the ignition? ? The fan seems to be the most used application, while the deflector and the bilge fan directing air directly to the carbs seems to be the next most effective application.? ? I will let the list know when I get my BJ8 running as it will have the fan operating with a control on the dash board and the deflector underneath the radiator deflecting the air into the engine. ? By the way, I have a friend who used an inline electric fuel pump near the carbs controlled with an on/off switch on the dash to increase the pressure to the carbs while in traffic, along with a radiator fan on his Triumph and never had a problem.? That application could be a 4th in a series of how to solve the problem of overheating and vapor lock. ? Bob Begani 67 BJ8 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 5:57 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos ? Folks Before we get to excited about a cooler carb please consider what is happening in a running carburetor controlled engine. The carb acts like a swamp cooler.? The vaporized fuel is mixing with air and the charge mixture is as cool as it gets before ignition in the combustion chamber. Ever notice little droplets of moisture on the exterior of the carb body when humidity and heat is just right? The real overheated carbs usually occurs when the airflow (radiator fan wash) over the engine is limited or restricted (read stuck in traffic or participating in the 4th of July parade). Worst case is when you shut down the engine and the engine begins the process of trying to make everything in the engine bay the same temperature. Hot! The photos do show the hottest areas on the engine, exhaust area and the head. Without airflow and vaporization in the carbs they rapidly begin to heat up. So does the fuel in the fuel bowls. How hot does it have to be to cause vapor lock? Just a few thoughts for consideration and comment? Perry From: Bob England Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 5:03 PM To: 'David Nock BCS'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos ? David ? I noticed that too - I figured the carbs would show warmer.? If I remember I'm going to bring the unit home again this weekend and poke a bit more under the bonnet. ? Keep in mind that this is one car in one circumstance - the guys chasing the overheating issue might see something different with thermal images of their cars (it would be interesting to know). ? I must admit I have not been following an overheating carb thread.? What is the issue?? Maybe I should take some more thermal images around the carbs. ? Thanks. ? Bob ? -----Original Message----- From: David Nock BCS [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] Sent: July 26, 2018 9:57 AM To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos ? The interesting part that I see is that there is very little heat at the carbs, So that tells me that the problem everyone is chasing of overheating in the fuel in the carbs may not exist. ? ? ? David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob England Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 4:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos ? I thought I'd share a few photos of the engine running in our BJ8. ? Photo 28 is taken near the front right headlight looking down.? 29 is taken from above the right front wheel looking towards the radiator.? 31 is from the same position looking down at the valve cover and distributor. ? I'd taken these when trying to find toe-frying hot spots in the foot-wells. Not the greatest photos, but interesting nevertheless. ? Bob ? ? ? ? ? ? ? _______________________________________________ ? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys ? Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ? ? _______________________________________________ ? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys ? Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Jul 31 06:19:04 2018 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 8:19:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 350 mile 1980 MGB GT And the stopped selling the BGT in the States after 74, I seem to recall the story at the time that the extra weight would upset the emmissions equation and it wouldn't meet standards. Sad days for BL indeed. Anyway, the one for sale has dual SUs, obviously isn't a US model, and is in the best color for rubber bumper Bs, black. I believe you could import it now under the rolling 25 year exemption rule. Greg Lemon ---- Bob Haskell wrote: > Mike, The US version had a Stromberg carb with a water choke, not Solex. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/30/2018 07:12 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Hopefully more horsepower (50 BHP approx.) than it's US counterpart.? US > version had the lousy Solex carbs and tons of smog equipment to choke it > off.? I don't see the outer graphics of the 80 Limited Edition model. > That would have been one of 520. > Mike MacLean > > > On Monday, July 30, 2018 3:48 PM, i erbs wrote: > > > http://cathedral-classics.com/car/mg-b-gt-1980/# > amazing time capsul > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ > ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) > ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From atightprod at aol.com Tue Jul 31 09:18:07 2018 From: atightprod at aol.com (atightprod at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 11:18:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos I have been using a bilge fan blowing air directly on my carbs in my BN1 for almost six years now. Recently I shipped my car to Europe for the European Healey Meet and while driving I got caught in a construction zone in France. Less than a kilometer in distance, but close to an hour in time with no where, and I mean no where, to pull off. Move three feet, stop for ten minutes, move five feet, stop for six minutes, you get the idea. And it would have been suicide to turn the car off. Temp gauge up to 230 and climbing. (The temp indicator will go up and into the oil pressure side, I've witnessed it, but that's another story) ? ? With the bilge fan turned on, my car never missed a beat. Never coughed. Never ran rough. Never faltered. Once through said construction and back on the "highway" I cruised on down the road and the temp came back down to 160. All's well that ends well, but without that electric bilge fan with an on/off switch in the cockpit, I would have been toast and the situation much worse.? ? ? I am a believer and I have been proven correct a number of times. When I do stop the car on hot days and come back out to start her up, I turn the fan on for a couple of minutes before I start the car. Sometimes she starts right up with no problem, sometimes she coughs a bit, but she always smooths out in a few seconds and then I can drive away with no problems. Best modification I have made on my car bar none.? Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598? ? In a message dated 7/31/2018 12:15:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, rfbegani at gmail.com writes: ? So Perry, if your analysis is correct, then the use of an electric fan pushing air through the radiator, combined with an air deflector underneath the radiator directing air from below into the fan and the engine compartment provides sufficient air flow over the engine to keep the carbs cool enough to keep them from overheating?? In addition, the fan should be kept operating while stalled in traffic and say 5 minutes before shutting down the ignition? ? The fan seems to be the most used application, while the deflector and the bilge fan directing air directly to the carbs seems to be the next most effective application.? ? I will let the list know when I get my BJ8 running as it will have the fan operating with a control on the dash board and the deflector underneath the radiator deflecting the air into the engine. ? By the way, I have a friend who used an inline electric fuel pump near the carbs controlled with an on/off switch on the dash to increase the pressure to the carbs while in traffic, along with a radiator fan on his Triumph and never had a problem.? That application could be a 4th in a series of how to solve the problem of overheating and vapor lock. ? Bob Begani 67 BJ8 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 5:57 PM To:healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos ? Folks Before we get to excited about a cooler carb please consider what is happening in a running carburetor controlled engine. The carb acts like a swamp cooler.? The vaporized fuel is mixing with air and the charge mixture is as cool as it gets before ignition in the combustion chamber. Ever notice little droplets of moisture on the exterior of the carb body when humidity and heat is just right? The real overheated carbs usually occurs when the airflow (radiator fan wash) over the engine is limited or restricted (read stuck in traffic or participating in the 4th of July parade). Worst case is when you shut down the engine and the engine begins the process of trying to make everything in the engine bay the same temperature. Hot! The photos do show the hottest areas on the engine, exhaust area and the head. Without airflow and vaporization in the carbs they rapidly begin to heat up. So does the fuel in the fuel bowls. How hot does it have to be to cause vapor lock? Just a few thoughts for consideration and comment? Perry From: Bob England Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 5:03 PM To: 'David Nock BCS'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos ? David ? I noticed that too - I figured the carbs would show warmer.? If I remember I'm going to bring the unit home again this weekend and poke a bit more under the bonnet. ? Keep in mind that this is one car in one circumstance - the guys chasing the overheating issue might see something different with thermal images of their cars (it would be interesting to know). ? I must admit I have not been following an overheating carb thread.? What is the issue?? Maybe I should take some more thermal images around the carbs. ? Thanks. ? Bob ? -----Original Message----- From: David Nock BCS [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] Sent: July 26, 2018 9:57 AM To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos ? The interesting part that I see is that there is very little heat at the carbs, So that tells me that the problem everyone is chasing of overheating in the fuel in the carbs may not exist. ? ? ? David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob England Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 4:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos ? I thought I'd share a few photos of the engine running in our BJ8. ? Photo 28 is taken near the front right headlight looking down.? 29 is taken from above the right front wheel looking towards the radiator.? 31 is from the same position looking down at the valve cover and distributor. ? I'd taken these when trying to find toe-frying hot spots in the foot-wells. Not the greatest photos, but interesting nevertheless. ? Bob ? ? ? ? ? ? ? _______________________________________________ ? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys ? Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ? ? _______________________________________________ ? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys ? Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? ? ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Jul 31 09:58:01 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 11:58:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos References: OK this has been bothering me off and on for years and I never did anything to try to calculate the Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM) of a stock AH100 radiator fan. In light of the recent discussion of air flow in the engine compartment (Some text borrowed from the net) According to the general fan law for axial fans, you will need to know the fan blade diameter and pitch (blade tilt or attack angle) along with the rpm to calculate CFM. An Austin Healey 100 radiator fan has a four blades with a 15 inch (1.25 foot) diameter and an 4-inch effective pitch (one inch pitch times four blades). This means that each revolution of the running fan blows the 1.25 foot diameter column of air coming passed the fan 4 inches. There are efficiency losses but we are talking generalities here . For the two ends of the spectrum the engine is idling at 700 rpm or powering along the road at 3000 rpm. The pulley setup on the AH100 is nearly the same diameter on the water pump and crank, so the fan rpm is approximately the same as engine rpm. Calculate the linear velocity of the air through the running fan. If each revolution moves the air 4 inches, then 700-revolutions per minute multiplied by 4 means the air is being moved at 2800 inches per minute, or 233 feet in one minute. For 3000 rpm engine speed, the answer is 12000 inches or 1000 feet. Calculate the CFM (volumetric flow of air) at 700 rpm. The volume of the column of air described above is pi (3.1416) x fan radius squared (7.5 inches or 0.625 feet squared) times the column length in feet. This would be 3.1416 x 0.390525 square feet x 233 feet = 285 cubic feet per minute at 700 rpm. At 3000 rpm the CFM is 1226. I knew that the stock fans do not move much air but my calculation says it really is horrendous. Suspect my math is off somewhere. Math teachers and mechanical engineers and anybody else for that matter, Comments please. Perry To: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ruvino at ripnet.com Tue Jul 31 11:01:26 2018 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (ruvino at ripnet.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 13:01:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos References: <164f0eaf5ac-c8f-6172@webjas-vab134.srv.aolmail.net> I have an electric fan that is mounted in front of the rad and controlled with a thermostat that I can set to come on at any temp. Got frustrated with the hot days of July at red lights in Toronto, 30 years ago and have had no problems since. From: atightprod at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 11:18 AM To: rfbegani at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos I have been using a bilge fan blowing air directly on my carbs in my BN1 for almost six years now. Recently I shipped my car to Europe for the European Healey Meet and while driving I got caught in a construction zone in France. Less than a kilometer in distance, but close to an hour in time with no where, and I mean no where, to pull off. Move three feet, stop for ten minutes, move five feet, stop for six minutes, you get the idea. And it would have been suicide to turn the car off. Temp gauge up to 230 and climbing. (The temp indicator will go up and into the oil pressure side, I've witnessed it, but that's another story) With the bilge fan turned on, my car never missed a beat. Never coughed. Never ran rough. Never faltered. Once through said construction and back on the "highway" I cruised on down the road and the temp came back down to 160. All's well that ends well, but without that electric bilge fan with an on/off switch in the cockpit, I would have been toast and the situation much worse. I am a believer and I have been proven correct a number of times. When I do stop the car on hot days and come back out to start her up, I turn the fan on for a couple of minutes before I start the car. Sometimes she starts right up with no problem, sometimes she coughs a bit, but she always smooths out in a few seconds and then I can drive away with no problems. Best modification I have made on my car bar none. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 7/31/2018 12:15:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, rfbegani at gmail.com writes: So Perry, if your analysis is correct, then the use of an electric fan pushing air through the radiator, combined with an air deflector underneath the radiator directing air from below into the fan and the engine compartment provides sufficient air flow over the engine to keep the carbs cool enough to keep them from overheating? In addition, the fan should be kept operating while stalled in traffic and say 5 minutes before shutting down the ignition? The fan seems to be the most used application, while the deflector and the bilge fan directing air directly to the carbs seems to be the next most effective application. I will let the list know when I get my BJ8 running as it will have the fan operating with a control on the dash board and the deflector underneath the radiator deflecting the air into the engine. By the way, I have a friend who used an inline electric fuel pump near the carbs controlled with an on/off switch on the dash to increase the pressure to the carbs while in traffic, along with a radiator fan on his Triumph and never had a problem. That application could be a 4th in a series of how to solve the problem of overheating and vapor lock. Bob Begani 67 BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 5:57 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos Folks Before we get to excited about a cooler carb please consider what is happening in a running carburetor controlled engine. The carb acts like a swamp cooler. The vaporized fuel is mixing with air and the charge mixture is as cool as it gets before ignition in the combustion chamber. Ever notice little droplets of moisture on the exterior of the carb body when humidity and heat is just right? The real overheated carbs usually occurs when the airflow (radiator fan wash) over the engine is limited or restricted (read stuck in traffic or participating in the 4th of July parade). Worst case is when you shut down the engine and the engine begins the process of trying to make everything in the engine bay the same temperature. Hot! The photos do show the hottest areas on the engine, exhaust area and the head. Without airflow and vaporization in the carbs they rapidly begin to heat up. So does the fuel in the fuel bowls. How hot does it have to be to cause vapor lock? Just a few thoughts for consideration and comment? Perry From: Bob England Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 5:03 PM To: 'David Nock BCS'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos David I noticed that too - I figured the carbs would show warmer. If I remember I'm going to bring the unit home again this weekend and poke a bit more under the bonnet. Keep in mind that this is one car in one circumstance - the guys chasing the overheating issue might see something different with thermal images of their cars (it would be interesting to know). I must admit I have not been following an overheating carb thread. What is the issue? Maybe I should take some more thermal images around the carbs. Thanks. Bob -----Original Message----- From: David Nock BCS [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] Sent: July 26, 2018 9:57 AM To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos The interesting part that I see is that there is very little heat at the carbs, So that tells me that the problem everyone is chasing of overheating in the fuel in the carbs may not exist. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob England Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 4:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos I thought I'd share a few photos of the engine running in our BJ8. Photo 28 is taken near the front right headlight looking down. 29 is taken from above the right front wheel looking towards the radiator. 31 is from the same position looking down at the valve cover and distributor. I'd taken these when trying to find toe-frying hot spots in the foot-wells. Not the greatest photos, but interesting nevertheless. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Tue Jul 31 15:58:15 2018 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 17:58:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Side shift trans covers I am about to install my two covers after first test fitting for a couple welding repairs. My front footwells are newly carpeted and the forward section is lapping over the carpet on the sides, IS This correct? When I try to fit that first piece alone where it would seem to be the Main cover is too far forward i.e small gap at the drive shaft tunnel. So I am thinking I need to get the big one in place regarding the tunnel and the access holes which will be pulling the front section back where it doesn't look like it would like to be ideally. Does anyone have any photos of the two sheetmetal covers in place or being installed/removed? Or any other words of wisdom? Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cardocgolden at gmail.com Tue Jul 31 21:14:56 2018 From: cardocgolden at gmail.com (Bruce Starke) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 21:14:56 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] SU fuel pump --thanks! HI all, just wanted to give thanks to all the very knowledgeable listers who give so freely of their time and expertise. I hope to have cured my higher rev range fuel starvation problem and I must give thanks to Kees for pointing me in the right direction with a comment he made on June 26 " The AZX1307 is not the correct pump for the AH. The original on later cars was AUF300 series, mostly 301 but there are some variations. The replacement of the AUF301 is AZX1308 which delivers a higher pressure, if my memory is correct 3,8psi versus 2,7psi" That is when the figurative bulb over my head went on! I had replaced the fuel pump a couple of years ago but had not connected the 2 events ( fuel starvation and the new pump) I checked on my car and sure enough, I had the AZX1307 . I ordered the AZX1308 and have just installed it --will try it out tomorrow once I am sure there are no leaks once again , thanks to all! Bruce Golden BC 1962 Tricarb -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Jul 31 21:19:18 2018 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 20:19:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?heat?= i guess i am just living right because so far even in our 110 to 115 degree days here in las vegas, i have not had any heat problems yet. car always starts and temp seems to stay down around 200-210 at stop lights. i guess i am used to seeing this as i do not consider 200 to be that hot. all i have is a six blade flex fan and a high efficiency radiator. i do try to do most of my driving in the morning when it is only around 100 degrees or so.