Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit

From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 17:44:45 +1000

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Hello Simon

Could do that, but it would mean that a wire would have to run two feet to
the other side of the engine bay.

I would like the least number of wires as possible so it at least looks
original.

Many thanks

Patrick Quinn

From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] 
Sent: Saturday, 25 May 2019 5:33 PM
To: 'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit

Would it not be easier to wire it off the fuse block? 

Even easier were you to have one of those 7-way blocks?

I can't comment on the ignition light. I saw something similar when reading
up about swapping from generator to alternator, but can't recall.

Simon

From: Healeys <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Patrick &
Caroline Quinn
Sent: 25 May 2019 08:17
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit

Hello

Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics.

My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that was
controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a bit
of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would always
hover in the negative. 

Personally I don't like thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired
direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken
directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan only
comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.

Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated
and will not go out.

Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn't like what I have done? I am
thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the ignition
switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would that work?

Any electrical whizzes out there?

Thanks

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia 

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-AU link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Hello =
Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Could do that, but it =
would mean that a wire would have to run two feet to the other side of =
the engine bay.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>I would like the least =
number of wires as possible so it at least looks =
original.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Many =
thanks<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Patrick =
Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";mso-fareast-l=
anguage:EN-AU'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";mso-fareast-l=
anguage:EN-AU'> [email-masked] =
[mailto:[email-masked]] <br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 25 =
May 2019 5:33 PM<br><b>To:</b> 'Patrick &amp; Caroline =
Quinn'<br><b>Subject:</b> RE: [Healeys] Ignition =
Circuit<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Would it not be easier to wire it off the fuse block? =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>Even =
easier were you to have one of those 7-way =
blocks?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>I =
can&#8217;t comment on the ignition light. I saw something similar when =
reading up about swapping from generator to alternator, but can&#8217;t =
recall.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-GB'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-GB'> Healeys =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Patrick &amp; =
Caroline Quinn<br><b>Sent:</b> 25 May 2019 08:17<br><b>To:</b> =
[email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Ignition =
Circuit<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'>Hello<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Seeking advice from =
those who understand automotive electrics.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>My real Healey has an =
electric fan in front of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo =
switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of power but =
nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would always hover in =
the negative. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Personally I don&#8217;t =
like thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired direct and operated =
by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken directly from the =
outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan only comes on when =
the ignition is on along with the specific =
switch.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Works well, but now when =
the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will not go =
out.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Does that mean that the =
ignition circuit doesn&#8217;t like what I have done? I am thinking of =
taking the power direct from the incoming side of the ignition switch so =
that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would that =
work?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Any electrical whizzes =
out there?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'>Thanks<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Patrick =
Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Blue Mountains, =
Australia <o:p></o:p></span></p><div =
id=3DDAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-GB'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><table =
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From: Kees Oudesluijs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 10:27:55 +0200

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Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps which will 
result in a negative charge hence the ign. light is coming on, probably 
only when idling. Before you most likely had the fan wired directly from 
the main circuit in series with the Amp. meter and not through the 
ignition circuit so the light might not show. You could operating the 
fan using a relay switched on by the under dash switch but getting the 
main current from the battery. It will not solve the negative charge but 
it may avoid the light coming on.

Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps than 
necessary. However the fan is only on for a very short while unless in 
prolonged very heavy traffic and on long and slow steep inclines

The best way is to revert to the old situation with the thermo-switch 
(wired through the ignition circuit and use the manual switch as an 
override switch so when you switch of the ignition the fan will not 
work. These should switch a relay with the main current coming directly 
from the main circuit with the Ampmeter

Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95°C and cuts out at about 
5-10°C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
> controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite 
> a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle 
> would always hover in the negative.
>
> Personally I don’t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired 
> direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is 
> taken directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that 
> the fan only comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific 
> switch.
>
> Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is 
> illuminated and will not go out.
>
> Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn’t like what I have 
> done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side 
> of the ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the 
> battery. Would that work?
>
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    <p>Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps which
      will result in a negative charge hence the ign. light is coming
      on, probably only when idling. Before you most likely had the fan
      wired directly from the main circuit in series with the Amp. meter
      and not through the ignition circuit so the light might not show.
      You could operating the fan using a relay switched on by the under
      dash switch but getting the main current from the battery. It will
      not solve the negative charge but it may avoid the light coming
      on.</p>
    <p>Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps than
      necessary. However the fan is only on for a very short while
      unless in prolonged very heavy traffic and on long and slow steep
      inclines<br>
    </p>
    <p>The best way is to revert to the old situation with the
      thermo-switch (wired through the ignition circuit and use the
      manual switch as an override switch so when you switch of the
      ignition the fan will not work. These should switch a relay with
      the main current coming directly from the main circuit with the
      Ampmeter<br>
    </p>
    <p>Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95°C and cuts out at
      about 5-10°C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.</p>
    <p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick
      &amp; Caroline Quinn:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
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        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Hello<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Seeking advice from those who
            understand automotive electrics.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">My real Healey has an
            electric fan in front of the radiator that was controlled by
            a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a
            bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge
            needle would always hover in the negative. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Personally I don’t like
            thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired direct and
            operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken
            directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so
            that the fan only comes on when the ignition is on along
            with the specific switch.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Works well, but now when the
            fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will not
            go out.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Does that mean that the
            ignition circuit doesn’t like what I have done? I am
            thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side
            of the ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct
            from the battery. Would that work?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Any electrical whizzes out
            there?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Thanks<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Patrick Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Blue Mountains, Australia <o:p></o:p></span></p>
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      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 07:08:44 -0400

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Hi Patrick,  I would agree that using the fused connection on the "ignition
switched" side of the fuse block as the source would be a good idea. The
ignition switch is not fuse protected so by using that as a source you do
run a risk of "letting the smoke out" should a short to ground occur in
your fan system.
You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are more than the
fuses can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous loads
in mind.
To circumvent that issue you could use the unfused side of the "ignition
switched" section of the fuse block as the source and install an "in line"
fuse to protect the fan circuit.
I cannot overemphasize the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a
fuse, it very easy to damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major
undertaking.

M

On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, <[email-masked]=
u>
wrote:

> controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a b=
it
> of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would alwa=
ys
> hover in the negative.
>
>
>
> Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been =
wired
> directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan on=
ly
> Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminate=
d
> and will not go out.
>
>
>
> Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have=
 done? I
> am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the
> ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would
> that work?
>
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm=
_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient> Virus-free.
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
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--000000000000827b460589b45752
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<div dir=3D"auto">Hi Patrick,=C2=A0 I would agree that using the fused conn=
ection on the &quot;ignition switched&quot; side of the fuse block as the s=
ource would be a=C2=A0good idea. The ignition switch is not fuse protected =
so by using that as a source you do run a risk of &quot;letting the smoke o=
ut&quot; should a short to ground occur in your fan system.=C2=A0<div dir=
=3D"auto">You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are more tha=
n the fuses can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous=
 loads in mind.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">To circumvent that issue you c=
ould use the unfused side of the &quot;<span style=3D"font-family:sans-seri=
f">ignition switched&quot; section of the fuse block as the source and inst=
all an &quot;in line&quot; fuse to protect the fan circuit.=C2=A0</span></d=
iv><div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">I cannot overem=
phasize the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a fuse, it very e=
asy to damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major undertaking.=C2=
=A0</span></div><div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><b=
r></span></div><div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">M</=
span></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_attr">On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick &amp; Caroline Quinn, &lt;=
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quo=
te" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"=
><div lang=3D"EN-AU" link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple"><div class=3D"m_8615921=
404074116746m_522225868468857056WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span =
style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Hello<u=
></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&q=
uot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p=
><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&qu=
ot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Seeking advice from those who understand automotive =
electrics.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"fo=
nt-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></=
u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times =
New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">My real Healey has an electric fan in fr=
ont of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonab=
ly well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the=
 amp gauge needle would always hover in the negative. <u></u><u></u></span>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman=
&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNor=
mal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quo=
t;">Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now bee=
n wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is t=
aken directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan=
 only comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.<u></=
u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot=
;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p=
 class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;=
,&quot;serif&quot;">Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition l=
ight is illuminated and will not go out.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot=
;serif&quot;"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span s=
tyle=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Does tha=
t mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have done? I a=
m thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the ignitio=
n switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would that wor=
k?<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-famil=
y:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span=
></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roma=
n&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Any electrical whizzes out there?<u></u><u></u><=
/span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New=
 Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;ser=
if&quot;">Thanks<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=
=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><u></u>=C2=
=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quo=
t;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Patrick Quinn<u></u><u></u></spa=
n></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Rom=
an&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Blue Mountains, Australia <u></u><u></u></span>=
</p></div><div id=3D"m_8615921404074116746m_522225868468857056DAB4FAD8-2DD7=
-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
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[email-masked]

--===============4024474699675052634==--

---

From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 21:24:07 +1000

--===============7194127719396861708==
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello Michael

And to obtain a wiring harness for a real Healey would mean that it has to =
be specially made.

Thanks

Patrick Quinn

From: Michael Salter [mailto:[email-masked]] 
Sent: Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:09 PM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit

Hi Patrick,  I would agree that using the fused connection on the "ignition=
 switched" side of the fuse block as the source would be a good idea. The i=
gnition switch is not fuse protected so by using that as a source you do ru=
n a risk of "letting the smoke out" should a short to ground occur in your =
fan system. 

You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are more than the fuse=
s can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous loads in =
mind. 

To circumvent that issue you could use the unfused side of the "ignition sw=
itched" section of the fuse block as the source and install an "in line" fu=
se to protect the fan circuit. 

I cannot overemphasize the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a =
fuse, it very easy to damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major =
undertaking. 

M

u> wrote:

Hello

My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that was contro=
lled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of po=
wer but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would always hove=
r in the negative. 

Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been wi=
red direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken=
 directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan onl=
y comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.

Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated =
and will not go out.

Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have d=
one? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the=
 ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would =
that work?

Thanks

Patrick Quinn

 <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_=
campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient> 

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=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient> www.avast.com 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" =
xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" =
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta =
name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 14 (filtered medium)"><!--[if =
!mso]><style>v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-AU link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>Hello Michael<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>And to obtain a =
wiring harness for a real Healey would mean that it has to be specially =
made.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>Thanks<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>Patrick =
Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Michael =
Salter [mailto:[email-masked]] <br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 25 =
May 2019 9:09 PM<br><b>To:</b> Patrick and Caroline Quinn<br><b>Cc:</b> =
[email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Ignition =
Circuit<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Hi =
Patrick,&nbsp; I would agree that using the fused connection on the =
&quot;ignition switched&quot; side of the fuse block as the source would =
be a&nbsp;good idea. The ignition switch is not fuse protected so by =
using that as a source you do run a risk of &quot;letting the smoke =
out&quot; should a short to ground occur in your fan =
system.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>You may find that =
the electrical demands of your fan are more than the fuses can handle as =
the system was not designed with heavy continuous loads in =
mind.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>To circumvent =
that issue you could use the unfused side of the &quot;<span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>ignition switched&quot; =
section of the fuse block as the source and install an &quot;in =
line&quot; fuse to protect the fan =
circuit.&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>I =
cannot overemphasize the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a =
fuse, it very easy to damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a =
major undertaking.&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>M</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><=
/div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick &amp; Caroline =
Quinn, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Hello<o:p></=
o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Seeking =
advice from those who understand automotive electrics.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>My real =
Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that was controlled =
by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of =
power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would always =
hover in the negative. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Personally =
I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired =
direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken =
directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan =
only comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific =
switch.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Works well, =
but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will =
not go out.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Does that =
mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have done? I =
am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the =
ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. =
Would that work?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Any =
electrical whizzes out there?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Thanks<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Patrick =
Quinn<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Blue =
Mountains, Australia <o:p></o:p></p></div><div =
id=3D"m_8615921404074116746m_522225868468857056DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E=
2AA1F9FDF2"><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><table =
class=3DMsoNormalTable border=3D1 cellspacing=3D3 cellpadding=3D0 =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #D3D4DE 1.0pt'><tr><td width=3D69 =
style=3D'width:41.25pt;border:none;padding:9.75pt .75pt .75pt .75pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><a =
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nge-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif"></span></a><o:p></o:p></p></td><td =
width=3D588 style=3D'width:352.5pt;border:none;padding:9.0pt .75pt .75pt =
.75pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'line-height:13.5pt'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:#41424E'=
>Virus-free. <a =
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=3Dlink&amp;utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Demailclient" =
target=3D"_blank"><span style=3D'color:#4453EA'>www.avast.com</span></a> =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></td></tr></table></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>__________________________________________=
_____<br>Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
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------=_NextPart_000_00A2_01D51340.311FA5D0--

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[email-masked]

--===============7194127719396861708==--

---

From: Perry via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 08:11:16 -0400

--===============7202400816880791604==
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--_02B81CA5-C077-4967-AADF-3451D5E18FDA_
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Patrick
The ignition (no charge) warning light does not have a ground like most lig=
hts on our Austin Healey or Healey=E2=80=99s but ground through the =E2=80=
=9CD=E2=80=9D connector on the dynamo when no charge is being produced (eng=
ine not running, ignition on, warning light on). When the appropriate charg=
e is being made by the dynamo it negates the power feeding the other side o=
f the no charge warning light and the light goes out.   Kind of counterintu=
itive.=20
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 3:17 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit

Hello

r in the negative.=20

Thanks

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia=20

=0DVirus-free. www.avast.com =0D

--_02B81CA5-C077-4967-AADF-3451D5E18FDA_
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<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-micr=
osoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" =
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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3D"#954F72"><div cla=
ss=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Patrick</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>The =
ignition (no charge) warning light does not have a ground like most lights =
on our Austin Healey or Healey=E2=80=99s but ground through the =E2=80=9CD=
=E2=80=9D connector on the dynamo when no charge is being produced (engine =
not running, ignition on, warning light on). When the appropriate charge is=
 being made by the dynamo it negates the power feeding the other side of th=
e no charge warning light and the light goes out.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Kind of count=
erintuitive. </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Perry</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sent from <a href=3D"https://go.microsof=
t.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986">Mail</a> for Windows 10</p><p class=3DMsoNor=
mal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div style=3D'mso-element:para-border-div;border:n=
one;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMs=
oNormal style=3D'border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:p_=
[email-masked]">Patrick &amp; Caroline Quinn</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Saturda=
y, May 25, 2019 3:17 AM<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked].=
net">[email-masked]</a><br><b>Subject: </b>[Healeys] Ignition Circu=
it</p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=
<span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Hello<o:p>=
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-fami=
ly:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNorma=
l><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Seeking =
advice from those who understand automotive electrics.<o:p></o:p></span></p=
><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times New Ro=
man",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DE=
N-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>My real Healey has an el=
ectric fan in front of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo switch.=
 Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerni=
ng. When on, the amp gauge needle would always hover in the negative. <o:p>=
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-fami=
ly:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNorma=
l><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Personal=
ly I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired dire=
ct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken directl=
y from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan only comes =
on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.<o:p></o:p></span=
></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times Ne=
w Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=
=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Works well, but now =
when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will not go out.=
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font=
-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMso=
Normal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Doe=
s that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have done=
? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the ig=
nition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would tha=
t work?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=
=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman",se=
rif'>Any electrical whizzes out there?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoN=
ormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p=
>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'fo=
nt-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Thanks<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DM=
soNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><=
o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D=
'font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Patrick Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p><p=
 class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman=
",serif'>Blue Mountains, Australia <o:p></o:p></span></p><div id=3DDAB4FAD8=
-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-AU><o:p>&=
nbsp;</o:p></span></p><table class=3DMsoNormalTable border=3D1 cellpadding=
=3D0 style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #D3D4DE 1.0pt'><tr><td width=3D5=
5 style=3D'width:41.25pt;border:none;padding:9.75pt .75pt .75pt .75pt'><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal><a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Dem=
ail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&amp;utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Dem=
ailclient" target=3D"_blank"><span style=3D'text-decoration:none'><img bord=
er=3D0 width=3D46 height=3D29 style=3D'width:.4791in;height:.302in' id=3D"_=
x0000_i1025" src=3D"https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tic=
k-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif" alt=3D"https://ipmcdn.avast.com/i=
mages/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif"></sp=
an></a><o:p></o:p></p></td><td width=3D470 style=3D'width:352.5pt;border:no=
ne;padding:9.0pt .75pt .75pt .75pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'line-heig=
ht:13.5pt'><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;c=
olor:#41424E'>Virus-free. <a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_me=
dium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&amp;utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_con=
tent=3Demailclient" target=3D"_blank"><span style=3D'color:#4453EA'>www.ava=
st.com</span></a> <o:p></o:p></span></p></td></tr></table></div><p class=3D=
MsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></=
div></body></html>=

--_02B81CA5-C077-4967-AADF-3451D5E18FDA_--

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[email-masked]

--===============7202400816880791604==--

---

From: Skip Saunders <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 08:39:51 -0400

--===============7020393586926878051==

--0000000000008481710589b59ee8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Short answer: The car total electric load exceeds the capacity of the
generator.  The light comes on when the deficit is being made up from the
battery.

On Sat, May 25, 2019, 08:11 Perry via Healeys <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> Patrick
>
> The ignition (no charge) warning light does not have a ground like most
> lights on our Austin Healey or Healey=E2=80=99s but ground through the =
=E2=80=9CD=E2=80=9D
> connector on the dynamo when no charge is being produced (engine not
> running, ignition on, warning light on). When the appropriate charge is
> being made by the dynamo it negates the power feeding the other side of t=
he
> no charge warning light and the light goes out.   Kind of counterintuitiv=
e.
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Patrick & Caroline Quinn <[email-masked]>
> *Sent: *Saturday, May 25, 2019 3:17 AM
> *To: [email-masked]
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Ignition Circuit
>
>
>
> Hello
>
>
>
it
ys
wired
ly
d
 done? I
> [image:
> https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-ani=
mated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--0000000000008481710589b59ee8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Short answer: The car total electric load exceeds the cap=
acity of the generator.=C2=A0 The light comes on when the deficit is being =
made up from the battery.=C2=A0=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div></div><br>=
<div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Ma=
y 25, 2019, 08:11 Perry via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
m.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"=
gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-=
left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3D=
"m_-1316481709360941036WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Patrick</p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal">The ignition (no charge) warning light does not have a g=
round like most lights on our Austin Healey or Healey=E2=80=99s but ground =
through the =E2=80=9CD=E2=80=9D connector on the dynamo when no charge is b=
eing produced (engine not running, ignition on, warning light on). When the=
 appropriate charge is being made by the dynamo it negates the power feedin=
g the other side of the no charge warning light and the light goes out.=C2=
=A0=C2=A0 Kind of counterintuitive. </p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Perry</p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Sent fro=
m <a href=3D"https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986" target=3D"_b=
lank" rel=3D"noreferrer">Mail</a> for Windows 10</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=
<u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #e1e1e1 =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in"><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"border:non=
e;padding:0in"><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">Patrick &amp; Caroline Quinn</a><br><b>Sent:=
 </b>Saturday, May 25, 2019 3:17 AM<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:healeys=
@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]=
t</a><br><b>Subject: </b>[Healeys] Ignition Circuit</p></div><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU=
" style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif">Hello<u></u><u></=
u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-fami=
ly:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p cla=
ss=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New =
Roman&quot;,serif">Seeking advice from those who understand automotive elec=
trics.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" =
style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u=
></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-famil=
y:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif">My real Healey has an electric fan in =
front of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reason=
ably well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, t=
he amp gauge needle would always hover in the negative. <u></u><u></u></spa=
n></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-family:&quo=
t;Times New Roman&quot;,serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"M=
soNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&q=
uot;,serif">Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has=
 now been wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Po=
wer is taken directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that=
 the fan only comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific swit=
ch.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" sty=
le=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></=
span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-family:&=
quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif">Works well, but now when the fan goes on =
the ignition light is illuminated and will not go out.<u></u><u></u></span>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-family:&quot;=
Times New Roman&quot;,serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"Mso=
Normal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quo=
t;,serif">Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like wha=
t I have done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming s=
ide of the ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the batte=
ry. Would that work?<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span l=
ang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif"><u></=
u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=
=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif">Any electrical whizzes o=
ut there?<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-A=
U" style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u>=
</u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-fa=
mily:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif">Thanks<u></u><u></u></span></p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times Ne=
w Roman&quot;,serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=
<span lang=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif=
">Patrick Quinn<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=
=3D"EN-AU" style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif">Blue Mou=
ntains, Australia <u></u><u></u></span></p><div id=3D"m_-131648170936094103=
6DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D=
"EN-AU"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><table class=3D"m_-13164817093609410=
36MsoNormalTable" border=3D"1" cellpadding=3D"0" style=3D"border:none;borde=
r-top:solid #d3d4de 1.0pt"><tr><td width=3D"55" style=3D"width:41.25pt;bord=
er:none;padding:9.75pt .75pt .75pt .75pt"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><a href=3D=
"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&a=
mp;utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Demailclient" target=3D"_blank=
" rel=3D"noreferrer"><span style=3D"text-decoration:none"><img border=3D"0"=
 width=3D"46" height=3D"29" style=3D"width:.4791in;height:.302in" id=3D"m_-=
1316481709360941036_x0000_i1025" src=3D"https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/ico=
ns/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif" alt=3D"https:=
//ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no=
-repeat-v1.gif"></span></a><u></u><u></u></p></td><td width=3D"470" style=
=3D"width:352.5pt;border:none;padding:9.0pt .75pt .75pt .75pt"><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal" style=3D"line-height:13.5pt"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;fon=
t-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,sans-serif;color:#41424e">Virus-free. <a href=3D=
"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&a=
mp;utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Demailclient" target=3D"_blank=
" rel=3D"noreferrer"><span style=3D"color:#4453ea">www.avast.com</span></a>=
 <u></u><u></u></span></p></td></tr></table></div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u=
></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div>=
</div>_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <=
a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" targ=
et=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferr=
er">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/heal=
eys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://=
autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--0000000000008481710589b59ee8--

--===============7020393586926878051==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============7020393586926878051==--

---

From: Roger Grace <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 10:23:43 -0600 (MDT)

--===============6344503107185735907==
	boundary="----=_Part_314116451_187728644.1558801423695"

------=_Part_314116451_187728644.1558801423695
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Suggest that you consider powering the fan via a relay (reduces current thr=
ough ign switch) and also an in line fuse for good practice when adding new=
 circuits.
Also as Perry says the ign warning light coming on is not a complete disast=
er. It just tells you you are at full capcity and you could probably drive =
for a few hours if your batt is OK. Sounds like you have an ammeter - just =
keep an eye on it when using the fan and note the discharge the current -  =
probably less than 5A - and note too the increased make up charging current=
 after you switch off the fan.rg
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <[email-masked]>
To: 'Michael Salter' <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]
Sent: Sat, 25 May 2019 05:24:07 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit

<!--

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div.WordSection1
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-->Hello Michael And to obtain a wiring harness for a real Healey would mea=
n that it has to be specially made. Thanks Patrick Quinn From: Michael Salt=
er [mailto:[email-masked]]=20
Sent: Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:09 PM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit Hi Patrick,  I would agree that usi=
ng the fused connection on the "ignition switched" side of the fuse block a=
s the source would be a good idea. The ignition switch is not fuse protecte=
d so by using that as a source you do run a risk of "letting the smoke out"=
 should a short to ground occur in your fan system. You may find that the e=
lectrical demands of your fan are more than the fuses can handle as the sys=
tem was not designed with heavy continuous loads in mind. To circumvent tha=
t issue you could use the unfused side of the "ignition switched" section o=
f the fuse block as the source and install an "in line" fuse to protect the=
 fan circuit. I cannot overemphasize the importance of protecting the fan c=
ircuit with a fuse, it very easy to damage a wiring harness and replacing o=
ne is a major undertaking.  M On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick & Carol=
ine Quinn, <[email-masked]> wrote:Hello Seeking advice from those who =
understand automotive electrics. My real Healey has an electric fan in fron=
t of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably=
 well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the a=
mp gauge needle would always hover in the negative. Personally I don=E2=80=
=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired direct and operate=
d by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken directly from the out=
going side of the ignition switch so that the fan only comes on when the ig=
nition is on along with the specific switch. Works well, but now when the f=
an goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will not go out. Does that=
 mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have done? I am=
 thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the ignition=
 switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would that work=
? Any electrical whizzes out there? Thanks Patrick QuinnBlue Mountains, Aus=
tralia Virus-free. www.avast.com___________________________________________=
____

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

------=_Part_314116451_187728644.1558801423695
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><style> body {height: 100%; color:#000000; font-size:12pt; font=
-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;}</style></head><body><div><div>Suggest =
that you consider powering the fan via a relay (reduces current through ign=
 switch) and also an in line fuse for good practice when adding new circuit=
s.<br></div><div>Also as Perry says the ign warning light coming on is not =
a complete disaster. It just tells you you are at full capcity and you coul=
d probably drive for a few hours if your batt is OK. Sounds like you have a=
n ammeter - just keep an eye on it when using the fan and note the discharg=
e the current -&nbsp; probably less than 5A - and note too the increased ma=
ke up charging current after you switch off the fan.</div><div>rg</div></di=
v><div><br></div><div>----- Original Message -----<br>From: Patrick &amp; C=
aroline Quinn &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>To: 'Michael Salter' &lt;micha=
[email-masked]&gt;<br>Cc: [email-masked]<br>Sent: Sat, 25 May 2=
019 05:24:07 -0600 (MDT)<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit<br></di=
v><div><br></div><style><!--<br><div><br></div>@font-face<br>=09{font-famil=
y:"Cambria Math";<br>=09panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}<br>@font-face<br>=09=
{font-family:Calibri;<br>=09panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}<br>@font-face<b=
r>=09{font-family:Tahoma;<br>=09panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}<br><div><br=
></div>p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal<br>=09{margin:0cm;<br>=09ma=
rgin-bottom:.0001pt;<br>=09font-size:12.0pt;<br>=09font-family:"Times New R=
oman","serif";}<br>a:link, span.MsoHyperlink<br>=09{mso-style-priority:99;<=
br>=09color:blue;<br>=09text-decoration:underline;}<br>a:visited, span.MsoH=
yperlinkFollowed<br>=09{mso-style-priority:99;<br>=09color:purple;<br>=09te=
xt-decoration:underline;}<br>span.EmailStyle17<br>=09{mso-style-type:person=
al-reply;<br>=09font-family:"Times New Roman","serif";<br>=09color:windowte=
xt;}<br>.MsoChpDefault<br>=09{mso-style-type:export-only;<br>=09font-family=
:"Calibri","sans-serif";<br>=09mso-fareast-language:EN-US;}<br>@page WordSe=
ction1<br>=09{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;<br>=09margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0p=
t;}<br>div.WordSection1<br>=09{page:WordSection1;}<br>--></style><div class=
=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;"=
 data-mce-style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">Hello Michael</span></p><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;" data-mce-style=3D"font-size: =
11.0pt;">&nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: =
11.0pt;" data-mce-style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">And to obtain a wiring harne=
ss for a real Healey would mean that it has to be specially made.</span></p=
><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;" data-mce-style=
=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">&nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=
=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;" data-mce-style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">Thanks</span>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;" data-mce-styl=
e=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">&nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span styl=
e=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;" data-mce-style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">Patrick Quin=
n</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;" data-=
mce-style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">&nbsp;</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b=
><span style=3D"font-size: 10.0pt; font-family: 'Tahoma','sans-serif';" dat=
a-mce-style=3D"font-size: 10.0pt; font-family: 'Tahoma','sans-serif';" lang=
=3D"EN-US">From:</span></b><span style=3D"font-size: 10.0pt; font-family: '=
Tahoma','sans-serif';" data-mce-style=3D"font-size: 10.0pt; font-family: 'T=
ahoma','sans-serif';" lang=3D"EN-US"> Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter@=
gmail.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:09 PM<br><b>To:</b> Pat=
rick and Caroline Quinn<br><b>Cc:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:=
</b> Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;=
</p><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Hi Patrick,&nbsp; I would agree that using =
the fused connection on the "ignition switched" side of the fuse block as t=
he source would be a&nbsp;good idea. The ignition switch is not fuse protec=
ted so by using that as a source you do run a risk of "letting the smoke ou=
t" should a short to ground occur in your fan system.&nbsp;</p><div><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal">You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are mo=
re than the fuses can handle as the system was not designed with heavy cont=
inuous loads in mind.&nbsp;</p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">To circumv=
ent that issue you could use the unfused side of the "<span style=3D"font-f=
amily: 'Arial','sans-serif';" data-mce-style=3D"font-family: 'Arial','sans-=
serif';">ignition switched" section of the fuse block as the source and ins=
tall an "in line" fuse to protect the fan circuit.&nbsp;</span></p></div><d=
iv><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';=
" data-mce-style=3D"font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">I cannot overemphas=
ize the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a fuse, it very easy =
to damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major undertaking.&nbsp;<=
/span></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p></div><div><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';" data-mce-=
style=3D"font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">M</span></p></div></div><p cla=
ss=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">On Sat, May 25,=
 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick &amp; Caroline Quinn, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:p_cquinn=
@tpg.com.au" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</p></div><blockquote style=3D"border: n=
one; border-left: solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt; padding: 0cm 0cm 0cm 6.0pt; margin-l=
eft: 4.8pt; margin-right: 0cm;" data-mce-style=3D"border: none; border-left=
: solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt; padding: 0cm 0cm 0cm 6.0pt; margin-left: 4.8pt; marg=
in-right: 0cm;"><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-al=
t: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt=
: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;">Hello</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=
=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" data-mce-style=
=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;">&nbsp;</p><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt:=
 auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: =
auto;">Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics.</p><p=
 class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-a=
lt: auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-al=
t: auto;">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: aut=
o; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto=
; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;">My real Healey has an electric fan in front=
 of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably =
well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the am=
p gauge needle would always hover in the negative.</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal=
" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" data-mce=
-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;">&nbsp;</p=
><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-botto=
m-alt: auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;">Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan ha=
s now been wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. P=
ower is taken directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so tha=
t the fan only comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific swi=
tch.</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margi=
n-bottom-alt: auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin=
-bottom-alt: auto;">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-to=
p-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top=
-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;">Works well, but now when the fan =
goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will not go out.</p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: au=
to;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: aut=
o;">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso=
-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-=
margin-bottom-alt: auto;">Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=
=80=99t like what I have done? I am thinking of taking the power direct fro=
m the incoming side of the ignition switch so that the fan is powered direc=
t from the battery. Would that work?</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso=
-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-=
margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"M=
soNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" =
data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;">A=
ny electrical whizzes out there?</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-mar=
gin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-marg=
in-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" data=
-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;">Thank=
s</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-b=
ottom-alt: auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bo=
ttom-alt: auto;">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-a=
lt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" data-mce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-al=
t: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;">Patrick Quinn</p><p class=3D"MsoNorm=
al" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" data-m=
ce-style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;">Blue Mo=
untains, Australia</p></div><div id=3D"m_8615921404074116746m_5222258684688=
57056DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p=
><table class=3D"MsoNormalTable" style=3D"border: none; border-top: solid #=
D3D4DE 1.0pt;" data-mce-style=3D"border: none; border-top: solid #D3D4DE 1.=
0pt;" cellspacing=3D"3" cellpadding=3D"0" border=3D"1"><tbody><tr><td style=
=3D"width: 41.25pt; border: none; padding: 9.75pt .75pt .75pt .75pt;" data-=
mce-style=3D"width: 41.25pt; border: none; padding: 9.75pt .75pt .75pt .75p=
t;" width=3D"69"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/si=
g-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&amp;utm_campaign=3Dsig-ema=
il&amp;utm_content=3Demailclient" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"https:=
//www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&amp;utm_=
campaign=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Demailclient"><span style=3D"text-dec=
oration: none;" data-mce-style=3D"text-decoration: none;"><img id=3D"_x0000=
_i1025" src=3D"https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-rou=
nd-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif" data-mce-src=3D"https://ipmcdn.avast.c=
om/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif" =
width=3D"46" height=3D"29" border=3D"0"></span></a><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"=
></p></td><td style=3D"width: 352.5pt; border: none; padding: 9.0pt .75pt .=
75pt .75pt;" data-mce-style=3D"width: 352.5pt; border: none; padding: 9.0pt=
 .75pt .75pt .75pt;" width=3D"588"><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"line-hei=
ght: 13.5pt;" data-mce-style=3D"line-height: 13.5pt;"><span style=3D"font-s=
ize: 10.0pt; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; color: #41424e;" data-mce-s=
tyle=3D"font-size: 10.0pt; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'; color: #41424=
e;">Virus-free. <a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Dema=
il&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&amp;utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Dema=
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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 10:05:13 -0700

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O/T (slightly).  I now understand how the 'ignition' light works; i.e. a 
balance between the battery output and the generator's. I've also read 
the using an LED is somewhere between ineffective and dangerous, but I 
used an LED for the ignition light and it functioned just like a bulb 
for years.  I did, however, heed the warnings and put a bulb back in 
that circuit.

Bob

On 5/25/2019 9:23 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Suggest that you consider powering the fan via a relay (reduces 
> current through ign switch) and also an in line fuse for good practice 
> when adding new circuits.
> Also as Perry says the ign warning light coming on is not a complete 
> disaster. It just tells you you are at full capcity and you could 
> probably drive for a few hours if your batt is OK. Sounds like you 
> have an ammeter - just keep an eye on it when using the fan and note 
> the discharge the current - probably less than 5A - and note too the 
> increased make up charging current after you switch off the fan.
> rg
>
> And to obtain a wiring harness for a real Healey would mean that it 
> has to be specially made.
>
> Thanks
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> *From:*Michael Salter [mailto:[email-masked]]
> *Sent:* Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:09 PM
> *To:* Patrick and Caroline Quinn
> *Cc:* [email-masked]
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit
>
> Hi Patrick,  I would agree that using the fused connection on the 
> "ignition switched" side of the fuse block as the source would be 
> a good idea. The ignition switch is not fuse protected so by using 
> that as a source you do run a risk of "letting the smoke out" should a 
> short to ground occur in your fan system.
>
> fuses can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous 
> loads in mind.
>
> To circumvent that issue you could use the unfused side of the 
> "ignition switched" section of the fuse block as the source and 
> install an "in line" fuse to protect the fan circuit.
>
> I cannot overemphasize the importance of protecting the fan circuit 
> with a fuse, it very easy to damage a wiring harness and replacing one 
> is a major undertaking.
>
> M
>
> On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, 
>
>     Hello
>
>     My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that
>     was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but
>     drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp
>     gauge needle would always hover in the negative.
>
>     Personally I don’t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been
>     wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash.
>     Power is taken directly from the outgoing side of the ignition
>     switch so that the fan only comes on when the ignition is on along
>     with the specific switch.
>
>     done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming
>     side of the ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from
>     the battery. Would that work?
>

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[email-masked]

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From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 16:10:40 -0400

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Patrick--

If, as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge when the fan is
running I would be concerned for the state of your charging circuit.  I
assume you have a generator if you have an ammeter and
I believe the generators on Healeys are rated at 30 amps which should be
more than sufficient to keep up with the draw of an auxiliary fan: the SPAL
site rates their fans as drawing no more than 78 amps (
https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm).

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps which will resul=
t
> in a negative charge hence the ign. light is coming on, probably only whe=
n
> idling. Before you most likely had the fan wired directly from the main
> circuit in series with the Amp. meter and not through the ignition circui=
t
> so the light might not show. You could operating the fan using a relay
> switched on by the under dash switch but getting the main current from th=
e
> battery. It will not solve the negative charge but it may avoid the light
> coming on.
>
> Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps than necessary=
.
> However the fan is only on for a very short while unless in prolonged ver=
y
> heavy traffic and on long and slow steep inclines
>
> override switch so when you switch of the ignition the fan will not work.
> These should switch a relay with the main current coming directly from th=
e
> main circuit with the Ampmeter
>
> Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95=C2=B0C and cuts out at about
> 5-10=C2=B0C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
it
ys
wired
ly
d
 done? I
> <#m_6620321412179458365_m_-1022862323478581469_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E=
2AA1F9FDF2>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
> [email-masked]://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesl=
[email-masked]
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--0000000000003f9b550589d00745
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Patri=
ck--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">If, as you say, the car =
is always in a state of discharge when the fan is running I would be concer=
ned for the state of your charging circuit.=C2=A0 I assume you have a gener=
ator if you have an ammeter and=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"color:#3333ff">I believe the generators on Healeys are rated at=
 30 amps which should be more than sufficient to keep up with the draw of a=
n auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans as drawing no more than 78 =
amps (<a href=3D"https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm">https://w=
ww.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm</a>).=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D=
"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defau=
lt" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div></div><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, May 25, 2019=
 at 4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px soli=
d rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    <p>Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps which
      will result in a negative charge hence the ign. light is coming
      on, probably only when idling. Before you most likely had the fan
      wired directly from the main circuit in series with the Amp. meter
      and not through the ignition circuit so the light might not show.
      You could operating the fan using a relay switched on by the under
      dash switch but getting the main current from the battery. It will
      not solve the negative charge but it may avoid the light coming
      on.</p>
    <p>Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps than
      necessary. However the fan is only on for a very short while
      unless in prolonged very heavy traffic and on long and slow steep
      inclines<br>
    </p>
    <p>The best way is to revert to the old situation with the
      thermo-switch (wired through the ignition circuit and use the
      manual switch as an override switch so when you switch of the
      ignition the fan will not work. These should switch a relay with
      the main current coming directly from the main circuit with the
      Ampmeter<br>
    </p>
    <p>Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95=C2=B0C and cuts out at
      about 5-10=C2=B0C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.</p>
    <p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class=3D"gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469mo=
z-cite-prefix">Op 25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick
      &amp; Caroline Quinn:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
     =20
     =20
      <div class=3D"gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469=
WordSection1">
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Hello<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Seeking advice from those who
            understand automotive electrics.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>My real Healey has an
            electric fan in front of the radiator that was controlled by
            a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a
            bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge
            needle would always hover in the negative. <u></u><u></u></span=
></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Personally I don=E2=80=99t like
            thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired direct and
            operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken
            directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so
            that the fan only comes on when the ignition is on along
            with the specific switch.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Works well, but now when the
            fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will not
            go out.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Does that mean that the
            ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have done? I am
            thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side
            of the ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct
            from the battery. Would that work?<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Any electrical whizzes out
            there?<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Thanks<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Blue Mountains, Australia <u></u><u></=
u></span></p>
      </div>
      <div id=3D"gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469DAB=
4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
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      <pre class=3D"gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469=
moz-quote-pre">_______________________________________________
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[email-masked]

--===============7375056024524138962==--

---

From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 16:11:39 -0400

--===============1916586211082212248==

--000000000000c534af0589d00aa6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Make that 7 amps--not 78....

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10 PM Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> more than sufficient to keep up with the draw of an auxiliary fan: the SP=
AL
>> the main circuit in series with the Amp. meter and not through the ignit=
ion
>> circuit so the light might not show. You could operating the fan using a
>> relay switched on by the under dash switch but getting the main current
>> from the battery. It will not solve the negative charge but it may avoid
>> the light coming on.
>>
>> override switch so when you switch of the ignition the fan will not work=
.
>> These should switch a relay with the main current coming directly from t=
he
>> Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95=C2=B0C and cuts out at abou=
t
>> controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a =
bit
>> of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would alw=
ays
>> hover in the negative.
>>
>>
>>
>> Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been=
 wired
>> directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan o=
nly
>> Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I hav=
e done? I
>> ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Woul=
d
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&ut=
m_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient> Virus-free.
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B4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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--000000000000c534af0589d00aa6
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Make =
that 7 amps--not 78....</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3=
333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best-=
-Michael Oritt</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><b=
r></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmai=
l_attr">On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10 PM Michael Oritt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-l=
eft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Patrick--</div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"=
gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">If, as you say, the car is al=
ways in a state of discharge when the fan is running I would be concerned f=
or the state of your charging circuit.=C2=A0 I assume you have a generator =
if you have an ammeter and=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" st=
yle=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I believe the generators on Healeys are rated =
at 30 amps which should be more than sufficient to keep up with the draw of=
 an auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans as drawing no more than 7=
8 amps (<a href=3D"https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm" target=
=3D"_blank">https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm</a>).=C2=A0=C2=
=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></=
div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Micha=
el Oritt</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</=
a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0p=
x 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    <p>Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps which
      will result in a negative charge hence the ign. light is coming
      on, probably only when idling. Before you most likely had the fan
      wired directly from the main circuit in series with the Amp. meter
      and not through the ignition circuit so the light might not show.
      You could operating the fan using a relay switched on by the under
      dash switch but getting the main current from the battery. It will
      not solve the negative charge but it may avoid the light coming
      on.</p>
    <p>Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps than
      necessary. However the fan is only on for a very short while
      unless in prolonged very heavy traffic and on long and slow steep
      inclines<br>
    </p>
    <p>The best way is to revert to the old situation with the
      thermo-switch (wired through the ignition circuit and use the
      manual switch as an override switch so when you switch of the
      ignition the fan will not work. These should switch a relay with
      the main current coming directly from the main circuit with the
      Ampmeter<br>
    </p>
    <p>Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95=C2=B0C and cuts out at
      about 5-10=C2=B0C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.</p>
    <p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class=3D"gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gm=
ail-m_-1022862323478581469moz-cite-prefix">Op 25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Pa=
trick
      &amp; Caroline Quinn:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
     =20
     =20
      <div class=3D"gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365=
gmail-m_-1022862323478581469WordSection1">
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Hello<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Seeking advice from those who
            understand automotive electrics.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>My real Healey has an
            electric fan in front of the radiator that was controlled by
            a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a
            bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge
            needle would always hover in the negative. <u></u><u></u></span=
      <div id=3D"gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gma=
il-m_-1022862323478581469DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
            </tr>
          </tbody>
        </table>
        <a href=3D"#m_-1809673902067552239_m_6620321412179458365_m_-1022862=
323478581469_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width=3D"1" height=3D"1"=
> </a></div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class=3D"gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_66203214121794=
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      <pre class=3D"gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365=
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_______________
179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://=
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From: Kees Oudesluijs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 22:44:39 +0200

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I do not think the generator will deliver more than about 25-30A at high 
revs. on a good day. A period alternator will give you 32-36A at 
moderate revs.

The fan will normally only be switched on in dense traffic at low speed, 
when a generator is not producing many amps. An alternator would do 
slightly better.

Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator better 
than that at normal speeds unless there are other accessories drawing a 
lot of power: e.g. head lights, spotlights, heater fan, windscreen 
wipers, modern high power radio, AC etc.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 26-5-2019 om 22:11 schreef Michael Oritt:
> On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10 PM Michael Oritt <[email-masked] 
>
>     Patrick--
>
>     If, as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge when the
>     fan is running I would be concerned for the state of your charging
>     circuit.  I assume you have a generator if you have an ammeter and
>     I believe the generators on Healeys are rated at 30 amps which
>     should be more than sufficient to keep up with the draw of an
>     auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans as drawing no more
>     than 78 amps (https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm).
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt
>
>     On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs
>
>         Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps which
>         will result in a negative charge hence the ign. light is
>         coming on, probably only when idling. Before you most likely
>         had the fan wired directly from the main circuit in series
>         with the Amp. meter and not through the ignition circuit so
>         the light might not show. You could operating the fan using a
>         relay switched on by the under dash switch but getting the
>         main current from the battery. It will not solve the negative
>         charge but it may avoid the light coming on.
>
>         Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps
>         than necessary. However the fan is only on for a very short
>         while unless in prolonged very heavy traffic and on long and
>         slow steep inclines
>
>         The best way is to revert to the old situation with the
>         ignition the fan will not work. These should switch a relay
>         with the main current coming directly from the main circuit
>         with the Ampmeter
>
>         Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95°C and cuts out at
>         about 5-10°C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.
>
>         Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>>         My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator
>>         that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably
>>         well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning.
>>         When on, the amp gauge needle would always hover in the
>>         negative.
>>
>>         Personally I don’t like thermo switches, so the fan has now
>>         been wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the
>>         dash. Power is taken directly from the outgoing side of the
>>         ignition switch so that the fan only comes on when the
>>         ignition is on along with the specific switch.
>>
>>         Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light
>>         is illuminated and will not go out.
>>
>>         Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn’t like what I
>>         have done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the
>>         incoming side of the ignition switch so that the fan is
>>         powered direct from the battery. Would that work?
>>
>>         <#m_-1809673902067552239_m_6620321412179458365_m_-1022862323478581469_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>>         Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>>         Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>>

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<html>
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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>I do not think the generator will deliver more than about 25-30A
      at high revs. on a good day. A period alternator will give you
      32-36A at moderate revs. <br>
    </p>
    <p>The fan will normally only be switched on in dense traffic at low
      speed, when a generator is not producing many amps. An alternator
      would do slightly better.</p>
    <p>Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator
      better than that at normal speeds unless there are other
      accessories drawing a lot of power: e.g. head lights, spotlights,
      heater fan, windscreen wipers, modern high power radio, AC etc.</p>
    <p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 26-5-2019 om 22:11 schreef Michael
      Oritt:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAPTa0B6D4y4+m-TB0L5zUi7c7opPYUcu=[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Make that 7
          amps--not 78....</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael
          Oritt</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10
          PM Michael Oritt &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]"
            moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div dir="ltr">
            <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Patrick--</div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
            </div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">If,
              as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge when
              the fan is running I would be concerned for the state of
              your charging circuit.  I assume you have a generator if
              you have an ammeter and  </div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">I
              believe the generators on Healeys are rated at 30 amps
              which should be more than sufficient to keep up with the
              draw of an auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans
              as drawing no more than 78 amps (<a
                href="https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm"
                target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm</a>).  </div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
            </div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
              Oritt</div>
          </div>
          <br>
          <div class="gmail_quote">
            <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, May 25, 2019 at
              4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs &lt;<a
                href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
                moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
              wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
              0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
              rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
              <div>
                <p>Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of
                  amps which will result in a negative charge hence the
                  ign. light is coming on, probably only when idling.
                  Before you most likely had the fan wired directly from
                  the main circuit in series with the Amp. meter and not
                  through the ignition circuit so the light might not
                  show. You could operating the fan using a relay
                  switched on by the under dash switch but getting the
                  main current from the battery. It will not solve the
                  negative charge but it may avoid the light coming on.</p>
                <p>Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more
                  Amps than necessary. However the fan is only on for a
                  very short while unless in prolonged very heavy
                  traffic and on long and slow steep inclines<br>
                </p>
                <p>The best way is to revert to the old situation with
                  the thermo-switch (wired through the ignition circuit
                  and use the manual switch as an override switch so
                  when you switch of the ignition the fan will not work.
                  These should switch a relay with the main current
                  coming directly from the main circuit with the
                  Ampmeter<br>
                </p>
                <p>Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95°C and
                  cuts out at about 5-10°C over the opening temperature
                  of the thermostat.</p>
                <p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
                <p><br>
                </p>
                <p><br>
                </p>
                <div
class="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469moz-cite-prefix">Op
                  25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick &amp; Caroline
                  Quinn:<br>
                </div>
                <blockquote type="cite">
                  <div
class="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469WordSection1">
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Hello</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Seeking advice from those
                        who understand automotive electrics.</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>My real Healey has an
                        electric fan in front of the radiator that was
                        controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably
                        well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing
                        concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would
                        always hover in the negative. </span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Personally I don’t like
                        thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired
                        direct and operated by a discreet switch under
                        the dash. Power is taken directly from the
                        outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the
                        fan only comes on when the ignition is on along
                        with the specific switch.</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Works well, but now when
                        the fan goes on the ignition light is
                        illuminated and will not go out.</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Does that mean that the
                        ignition circuit doesn’t like what I have done?
                        I am thinking of taking the power direct from
                        the incoming side of the ignition switch so that
                        the fan is powered direct from the battery.
                        Would that work?</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Any electrical whizzes
                        out there?</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn</span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Blue Mountains, Australia
                      </span></p>
                  </div>
                  <div
id="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
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From: Kees Oudesluijs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 23:20:59 +0200

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/Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator better 
than that at normal speeds./

Should of course read :

*Both a generator and an alternator would deliver sufficiently and an 
alternator better than that at normal speeds.*

Sorry for the confusion.
Kees Oudesluijs*
*
*
*
*
*
/
/
//Op 26-5-2019 om 22:44 schreef Kees Oudesluijs:
>
> I do not think the generator will deliver more than about 25-30A at 
> high revs. on a good day. A period alternator will give you 32-36A at 
> moderate revs.
>
> The fan will normally only be switched on in dense traffic at low 
> would do slightly better.
>
> than that at normal speeds unless there are other accessories drawing 
> a lot of power: e.g. head lights, spotlights, heater fan, windscreen 
>> On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10 PM Michael Oritt 
>>
>>     Patrick--
>>
>>     If, as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge when
>>     the fan is running I would be concerned for the state of your
>>     charging circuit.  I assume you have a generator if you have an
>>     ammeter and
>>         Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps
>>         which will result in a negative charge hence the ign. light
>>         is coming on, probably only when idling. Before you most
>>         likely had the fan wired directly from the main circuit in
>>         series with the Amp. meter and not through the ignition
>>         circuit so the light might not show. You could operating the
>>         fan using a relay switched on by the under dash switch but
>>         getting the main current from the battery. It will not solve
>>         the negative charge but it may avoid the light coming on.
>>
>>         Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95°C and cuts out
>>         at about 5-10°C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.
>>
>>         Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>
>>>         been wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under
>>>         the dash. Power is taken directly from the outgoing side of
>>>         the ignition switch so that the fan only comes on when the

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    <p><i>Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator
        better than that at normal speeds.</i></p>
    <p>Should of course read : <br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><b>Both a generator and an alternator
        would deliver sufficiently and an alternator better than that at
        normal speeds.</b></div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Sorry for the confusion.</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Kees Oudesluijs<b><br>
      </b></div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><b><br>
      </b></div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><b><br>
      </b></div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><i><br>
      </i></div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><i></i>Op 26-5-2019 om 22:44 schreef
      Kees Oudesluijs:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <p>I do not think the generator will deliver more than about
        25-30A at high revs. on a good day. A period alternator will
        give you 32-36A at moderate revs. <br>
      </p>
      <p>The fan will normally only be switched on in dense traffic at
        low speed, when a generator is not producing many amps. An
        alternator would do slightly better.</p>
      <p>Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator
        better than that at normal speeds unless there are other
        accessories drawing a lot of power: e.g. head lights,
        spotlights, heater fan, windscreen wipers, modern high power
        radio, AC etc.</p>
      <p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
      <p><br>
      </p>
      <p><br>
      </p>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 26-5-2019 om 22:11 schreef Michael
        Oritt:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAPTa0B6D4y4+m-TB0L5zUi7c7opPYUcu=[email-masked]">
        <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
          charset=UTF-8">
        <div dir="ltr">
          <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Make that 7
            amps--not 78....</div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael
            Oritt</div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
          </div>
        </div>
        <br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">
          <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10
            PM Michael Oritt &lt;<a
              href="mailto:[email-masked]"
              moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
            wrote:<br>
          </div>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
            0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
            rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
            <div dir="ltr">
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Patrick--</div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
              </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">If,
                as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge
                when the fan is running I would be concerned for the
                state of your charging circuit.  I assume you have a
                generator if you have an ammeter and  </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">I
                believe the generators on Healeys are rated at 30 amps
                which should be more than sufficient to keep up with the
                draw of an auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans
                as drawing no more than 78 amps (<a
                  href="https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm"
                  target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm</a>).  </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
              </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
                Oritt</div>
            </div>
            <br>
            <div class="gmail_quote">
              <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, May 25, 2019 at
                4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs &lt;<a
                  href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
                  moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                wrote:<br>
              </div>
              <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
                0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
                rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                <div>
                  <p>Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of
                    amps which will result in a negative charge hence
                    the ign. light is coming on, probably only when
                    idling. Before you most likely had the fan wired
                    directly from the main circuit in series with the
                    Amp. meter and not through the ignition circuit so
                    the light might not show. You could operating the
                    fan using a relay switched on by the under dash
                    switch but getting the main current from the
                    battery. It will not solve the negative charge but
                    it may avoid the light coming on.</p>
                  <p>Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing
                    more Amps than necessary. However the fan is only on
                    for a very short while unless in prolonged very
                    heavy traffic and on long and slow steep inclines<br>
                  </p>
                  <p>The best way is to revert to the old situation with
                    the thermo-switch (wired through the ignition
                    circuit and use the manual switch as an override
                    switch so when you switch of the ignition the fan
                    will not work. These should switch a relay with the
                    main current coming directly from the main circuit
                    with the Ampmeter<br>
                  </p>
                  <p>Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95°C and
                    cuts out at about 5-10°C over the opening
                    temperature of the thermostat.</p>
                  <p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
                  <p><br>
                  </p>
                  <p><br>
                  </p>
                  <div
class="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469moz-cite-prefix">Op
                    25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick &amp; Caroline
                    Quinn:<br>
                  </div>
                  <blockquote type="cite">
                    <div
class="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469WordSection1">
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Hello</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Seeking advice from
                          those who understand automotive electrics.</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>My real Healey has an
                          electric fan in front of the radiator that was
                          controlled by a thermo switch. Worked
                          reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of power
                          but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge
                          needle would always hover in the negative. </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Personally I don’t like
                          thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired
                          direct and operated by a discreet switch under
                          the dash. Power is taken directly from the
                          outgoing side of the ignition switch so that
                          the fan only comes on when the ignition is on
                          along with the specific switch.</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Works well, but now
                          when the fan goes on the ignition light is
                          illuminated and will not go out.</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Does that mean that the
                          ignition circuit doesn’t like what I have
                          done? I am thinking of taking the power direct
                          from the incoming side of the ignition switch
                          so that the fan is powered direct from the
                          battery. Would that work?</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Any electrical whizzes
                          out there?</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn</span></p>
                      <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Blue Mountains,
                          Australia </span></p>
                    </div>
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