Subject: [Healeys] Tach rebuild

From: John OBrien <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2020 14:23:44 -0600

Hi Listers:

The tach on  my BJ8 does not show the correct RPMs.  On a cool morning 
it shows what I believe is fairly close to the right numbers, but as the 
car warm, or the day warms, it reads higher and higher for the same 
speed.  I know it is not the clutch slipping.   I saw some articles in 
Healey Marque magazine showing how to rebuild and test them, but it 
requires a oscilloscope and some other specialized equipment I don't 
have, so I'm wondering if you guys have a recommendation for someone 
that might rebuild them.

I imagine there is also some info in the archives, but my antivirus 
software flags the archive site as a malicious website and doesn't want 
to let me access it.

Thanks for any info.

John O'Brien

'61 bugeye (Lucy)

'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)

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From: R F BEGANI <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2020 15:59:45 -0500

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From: Aol Mail via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2020 21:29:56 +0000 (UTC)

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John,

Last month I had my tach rebuilt by West Valley Instruments in Reseda Calif=
ornia. I had it done so that it would work with electronic ignition or poin=
ts. It=E2=80=99s more expensive to rebuild for electronic ignition, IIRC $3=
15 including return shipping. I think it is $285 to have it rebuilt for poi=
nts. It becomes electronic pick up instead of induction pick up, i.e. the l=
oop in the back of the tach is replaced by a single wire sticking out. You =
have to connect that single wire to the distributor side of the coil. I use=
d the white w/ black tracer wire for the trunk battery master switch that g=
rounds the points. I had to cut it off from the wire that it is paired with=
 and add a spade connector to attach it to the other coil terminal. This wi=
re has a junction right in front of the driver side of the firewall. I repl=
aced the single Lucas connector with a double and tied the white wire from =
the tach into that wire and ran it through an existing grommet hole in the =
firewall. This connects the distributor side of the coil and the tach witho=
ut adding a non-original looking wire to your harness. It grounds the tach =
when the battery switch is off, which of course is not a problem. My only c=
omplaint is that the tachometer needle seems to have a lot of dampening, bu=
t that shouldn=E2=80=99t really be an issue.

Chuck Ott67 BJ8, 69 AN9

> On Nov 24, 2020, at 3:29 PM, John OBrien <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BFHi Listers:
>=20
> The tach on=C2=A0 my BJ8 does not show the correct RPMs.=C2=A0 On a cool =
morning it shows what I believe is fairly close to the right numbers, but a=
s the car warm, or the day warms, it reads higher and higher for the same s=
peed.=C2=A0 I know it is not the clutch slipping.=C2=A0 I saw some articles=
 in Healey Marque magazine showing how to rebuild and test them, but it req=
uires a oscilloscope and some other specialized equipment I don't have, so =
I'm wondering if you guys have a recommendation for someone that might rebu=
ild them.
>=20
> I imagine there is also some info in the archives, but my antivirus softw=
are flags the archive site as a malicious website and doesn't want to let m=
e access it.
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
>=20
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/chuckns=
[email-masked]
>=20
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<div style=3D"color:black;font: 10pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">
<div dir=3D"ltr">John,<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">Last month I ha=
d my tach rebuilt by West Valley Instruments in Reseda California. I had it=
 done so that it would work with electronic ignition or points. It=E2=80=99=
s more expensive to rebuild for electronic ignition, IIRC $315 including re=
turn shipping. I think it is $285 to have it rebuilt for points. It becomes=
 electronic pick up instead of induction pick up, i.e. the loop in the back=
 of the tach is replaced by a single wire sticking out. You have to connect=
 that single wire to the distributor side of the coil. I used the white w/ =
black tracer wire for the trunk battery master switch that grounds the poin=
ts. I had to cut it off from the wire that it is paired with and add a spad=
e connector to attach it to the other coil terminal. This wire has a juncti=
on right in front of the driver side of the firewall. I replaced the single=
 Lucas connector with a double and tied the white wire from the tach into t=
hat wire and ran it through an existing grommet hole in the firewall. This =
connects the distributor side of the coil and the tach without adding a non=
-original looking wire to your harness. It grounds the tach when the batter=
y switch is off, which of course is not a problem. My only complaint is tha=
t the tachometer needle seems to have a lot of dampening, but that shouldn=
=E2=80=99t really be an issue.<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">Chuck O=
tt</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">67 BJ8, 69 AN9</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yqt4552596972" id=3D"yqtfd40351"><br clear=3D"none">&gt; On N=
ov 24, 2020, at 3:29 PM, John OBrien &lt;<a shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailt=
o:[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; =EF=BB=BFHi Lis=
ters:<br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; The tach on&nbsp; my B=
J8 does not show the correct RPMs.&nbsp; On a cool morning it shows what I =
believe is fairly close to the right numbers, but as the car warm, or the d=
ay warms, it reads higher and higher for the same speed.&nbsp; I know it is=
 not the clutch slipping.&nbsp;  I saw some articles in Healey Marque magaz=
ine showing how to rebuild and test them, but it requires a oscilloscope an=
d some other specialized equipment I don't have, so I'm wondering if you gu=
ys have a recommendation for someone that might rebuild them.<br clear=3D"n=
one">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; I imagine there is also some info in the =
archives, but my antivirus software flags the archive site as a malicious w=
ebsite and doesn't want to let me access it.<br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br cle=
ar=3D"none">&gt; Thanks for any info.<br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"n=
one">&gt; John O'Brien<br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; '61 b=
ugeye (Lucy)<br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; '65 BJ8 (Madely=
n)<br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; _=
______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">&gt; Suppo=
rt Team.Net <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" targ=
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br clear=3D"none">&gt; Su=
ggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"no=
ne">&gt; Archive: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/h=
ealeys " target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys </a><a sha=
pe=3D"rect" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http:/=
/autox.team.net/archive</a><br clear=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; =
<a shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br clear=3D"none">&gt; <=
a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br clear=
=3D"none">&gt; <br clear=3D"none">&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: <a shape=3D"rect=
" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]"=
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@aol.com</a><br clear=3D"none">&gt; </div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 27 Nov 2020 09:12:05 -0800

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Since I was able to get a Pertronix to work with my BJ8's tach a lister 
asked for details on my install.  Last I heard, converting an electronic 
tach for use with a Pertronix costs $200-300, and the 'do-it-yourself' 
instructions are fairly complex, so I'm passing this along for general 
information.

*Disclaimer: This worked for me; maybe there's a 'trick,' or maybe I 
just got lucky. I did calibrate my tach once--to an external tach/dwell 
meter and confirmed with radar/gear ratio calculations--but I don't 
recall that it was related to the Pertronix install.*

In the engine bay, the white wire (12V) is spliced to the black lead 
from the Pertronix--pos. gnd. car and Pertronix--and the black/white 
striped lead goes to the -/SW terminal on the coil (the coil will work 
either way, but puts out a bit more voltage if it's properly wired). 
Note the Pertronix switches current to the coil 'upstream' of the coil, 
whereas points switch the current to ground 'downstream' of the coil. 
The white/black wire from the +/CB terminal on the coil is the ground; 
when the cutoff switch is in the 'on' position the coil is connected to 
ground, whereas on a points system the wire is switched to ground when 
the coil is in the 'off' position (current is shunted around the coil). 
You can switch the two small leads on the cutoff switch to accomplish 
this; I used a large ring crimp terminal as one of the terminals on the 
switch is larger than the other.

It's been years, but IIRC I had to cut the spade lug on the ignition 
switch in order to route it through the pickup. If you want, you could 
cut the wire, temporarily splice it together as you try out different 
routing, then permanently splice them together (the ignition switch on a 
BJ8 is a PITA  to get to, you have to pull the console).

The underdash photos show the inductive pickup on the tach. I forgot 
about the little 'clip' the wire goes through, that may be part of the 
secret to making the tach work. The white wire in the foreground is 
ganged-up on the ignition switch on the 'run' terminal, the other half 
of it goes into the wire loom and comes out as the white wire I've 
spliced to the Pertronix black lead in the engine bay.

I've included the schematic from the shop manual in case you don't have 
it. Remember not to leave the key in the 'run' position with power for 
more than a couple minutes; it will fry a Pertronix (Pertronix II/III 
have protection from this, but last I checked with Pertronix--about a 
year ago--they don't make the II/IIIs for pos. gnd.).

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    <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
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  <body>
    Since I was able to get a Pertronix to work with my BJ8's tach a
    lister asked for details on my install.  Last I heard, converting an
    electronic tach for use with a Pertronix costs $200-300, and the
    'do-it-yourself' instructions are fairly complex, so I'm passing
    this along for general information.<br>
    <br>
    <b>Disclaimer: This worked for me; maybe there's a 'trick,' or maybe
      I just got lucky. I did calibrate my tach once--to an external
      tach/dwell meter and confirmed with radar/gear ratio
      calculations--but I don't recall that it was related to the
      Pertronix install.</b><br>
    <div class="moz-forward-container"><br>
      <br>
      In the engine bay, the white wire (12V) is spliced to the black
      lead from the Pertronix--pos. gnd. car and Pertronix--and the
      black/white striped lead goes to the -/SW terminal on the coil
      (the coil will work either way, but puts out a bit more voltage if
      it's properly wired). Note the Pertronix switches current to the
      coil 'upstream' of the coil, whereas points switch the current to
      ground 'downstream' of the coil. The white/black wire from the
      +/CB terminal on the coil is the ground; when the cutoff switch is
      in the 'on' position the coil is connected to ground, whereas on a
      points system the wire is switched to ground when the coil is in
      the 'off' position (current is shunted around the coil). You can
      switch the two small leads on the cutoff switch to accomplish
      this; I used a large ring crimp terminal as one of the terminals
      on the switch is larger than the other.<br>
      <br>
      It's been years, but IIRC I had to cut the spade lug on the
      ignition switch in order to route it through the pickup. If you
      want, you could cut the wire, temporarily splice it together as
      you try out different routing, then permanently splice them
      together (the ignition switch on a BJ8 is a PITA  to get to, you
      have to pull the console).<br>
      <br>
      The underdash photos show the inductive pickup on the tach. I
      forgot about the little 'clip' the wire goes through, that may be
      part of the secret to making the tach work. The white wire in the
      foreground is ganged-up on the ignition switch on the 'run'
      terminal, the other half of it goes into the wire loom and comes
      out as the white wire I've spliced to the Pertronix black lead in
      the engine bay.<br>
      <br>
      I've included the schematic from the shop manual in case you don't
      have it. Remember not to leave the key in the 'run' position with
      power for more than a couple minutes; it will fry a Pertronix
      (Pertronix II/III have protection from this, but last I checked
      with Pertronix--about a year ago--they don't make the II/IIIs for
      pos. gnd.).<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
    </div>
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