Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch

From: "m.g.sharp--- via Healeys" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 08:03:48 -0400

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Simon,  that does not sound bad to me.  It is hard to actually determine =
how far the clutch pedal depresses (i.e., half way) so it may not be =
quite in the last =C2=BC of travel.  If the clutch arm starts to move =
once you have taken up the slack in the pedal, then I think all is OK.  =
I assume the cotter pin that secures the pedal arm to the master =
cylinder pushrod is in good shape =E2=80=93 these do wear and I have =
replaced mine several times.  When they are worn you can have a fair bit =
of clutch pedal movement before the slack is taken up.  Solution is easy =
and cheap =E2=80=93 replace the cotter pin.

=20

I still have my g=E2=80=99box cover off, so I slipped out and checked =
mine.  My clutch arm does start to move once I have taken the slack out =
of the pedal and moves a total of 5/8=E2=80=9D, which I measured at the =
centre cotter pin that goes through the clutch arm.  I estimated that =
the clutch disengages enough that I can turn the output flange by hand =
when the clutch is about 5/8 depressed.  Probably not =C2=BE depressed =
as you suggest yours is, but that, as I said, is hard to estimate.

=20

Thinking about it (i.e., this is theory not empirical knowledge!) =
consider that you have a new clutch disk and perhaps you re-faced the =
flywheel, or may have =E2=80=9Croughed it up=E2=80=9D with some emery to =
remove any glazing.  Regardless if you did the latter or not, the two =
surfaces (clutch disk to flywheel) have not bedded in and so will have =
to be fully disengaged to turn the flange by hand.  With a bit of use, =
after bedding in,  they will disengage a little more readily and you may =
find that you do not have to use so much clutch pedal.  I imagine this =
will not be a big difference, but just slight.  This is much the same as =
drum brakes, which, after new shoes have been fitted, should be =
re-adjusted after a few hundred miles to take up clearance from bedding =
in.  Of course the clutch (and disk brakes) take up that clearance =
automatically.  I think that is sound thinking, and I am confident if it =
isn=E2=80=99t someone will tell me =F0=9F=98=8A.

=20

Bottom line, if the clutch is disengaging at =C2=BE depression of the =
pedal sufficiently that you can turn the flange by hand, AND if the =
clutch arm begins to move once the slack is taken up in the clutch =
pedal, I=E2=80=99d say you are OK.

=20

Let us know how it goes.

=20

Mirek

=20

From: Healeys <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Simon =
Lachlan via Healeys
Sent: October 5, 2021 11:16 AM
To: 'Healeys' <[email-masked]>
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch

=20

Hi,

I=E2=80=99ve been engaged on other things until recently. However, the =
clutch continues to be an issue.

We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldn=E2=80=99t budge until we changed =
engine=E2=80=99s angle, then it slotted in.

With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think and hope, =
determined that the clutch itself can work=E2=80=A6..

=20

With the car in 4th and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the clutch =
pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to watch the =
slave.

I got about =C2=BD=E2=80=9D to =C2=BE=E2=80=9D total movement of the =
slave cylinder=E2=80=99s push rod at which point =E2=80=93 pedal =
depressed to the floor =E2=80=93 the clutch was released ie I could turn =
the flange that couples to the driveshaft by hand. =C2=BD=E2=80=9D =
depression=E2=80=A6..no movement of the flange. ie everything in the =
last =C2=BC=E2=80=9D.

That=E2=80=99s got to be hydraulics???

I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into master with =
the slave. But I=E2=80=99m not optimistic as I=E2=80=99ve tried bleeding =
several times.=20

My clutch master cylinder has been in the car since I=E2=80=99ve owned =
it. +/- 25 years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a =
problem. Good idea?

Another thing=E2=80=A6..I do confess to never having changed the fluid =
100%. I always push a load through and out when I have to bleed the =
brakes but that=E2=80=99s mercifully seldom.=20

Any comments=E2=80=A6.particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 =E2=80=9C travel???

Simon

=20

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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72" style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Simon,=C2=A0 that does not =
sound bad to me.=C2=A0 It is hard to actually determine how far the =
clutch pedal depresses (i.e., half way) so it may not be quite in the =
last =C2=BC of travel.=C2=A0 If the clutch arm starts to move once you =
have taken up the slack in the pedal, then I think all is OK.=C2=A0 I =
assume the cotter pin that secures the pedal arm to the master cylinder =
pushrod is in good shape =E2=80=93 these do wear and I have replaced =
mine several times.=C2=A0 When they are worn you can have a fair bit of =
clutch pedal movement before the slack is taken up.=C2=A0 Solution is =
easy and cheap =E2=80=93 replace the cotter pin.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I still have =
my g=E2=80=99box cover off, so I slipped out and checked mine.=C2=A0 My =
clutch arm does start to move once I have taken the slack out of the =
pedal and moves a total of 5/8=E2=80=9D, which I measured at the centre =
cotter pin that goes through the clutch arm.=C2=A0 I estimated that the =
clutch disengages enough that I can turn the output flange by hand when =
the clutch is about 5/8 depressed.=C2=A0 Probably not =C2=BE depressed =
as you suggest yours is, but that, as I said, is hard to =
estimate.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thinking about it (i.e., this is theory not empirical =
knowledge!) consider that you have a new clutch disk and perhaps you =
re-faced the flywheel, or may have =E2=80=9Croughed it up=E2=80=9D with =
some emery to remove any glazing.=C2=A0 Regardless if you did the latter =
or not, the two surfaces (clutch disk to flywheel) have not bedded in =
and so will have to be fully disengaged to turn the flange by =
hand.=C2=A0 With a bit of use, after bedding in,=C2=A0 they will =
disengage a little more readily and you may find that you do not have to =
use so much clutch pedal.=C2=A0 I imagine this will not be a big =
difference, but just slight.=C2=A0 This is much the same as drum brakes, =
which, after new shoes have been fitted, should be re-adjusted after a =
few hundred miles to take up clearance from bedding in.=C2=A0 Of course =
the clutch (and disk brakes) take up that clearance automatically.=C2=A0 =
I think that is sound thinking, and I am confident if it isn=E2=80=99t =
someone will tell me <span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI =
Emoji",sans-serif'>&#128522;</span>.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Bottom line, =
if the clutch is disengaging at =C2=BE depression of the pedal =
sufficiently that you can turn the flange by hand, AND if the clutch arm =
begins to move once the slack is taken up in the clutch pedal, =
I=E2=80=99d say you are OK.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Let us know =
how it goes.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Mirek<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-CA'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-CA'> Healeys =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Simon Lachlan =
via Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> October 5, 2021 11:16 AM<br><b>To:</b> =
'Healeys' &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] =
Clutch<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Hi,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>I=E2=80=99ve been engaged on other things until recently. =
However, the clutch continues to be an issue.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>We got the gearbox back in OK. =
Wouldn=E2=80=99t budge until we changed engine=E2=80=99s angle, then it =
slotted in.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think =
and hope, determined that the clutch itself can =
work=E2=80=A6..<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>With the car in 4<sup>th</sup> and drive shaft disconnected =
I depressed the clutch pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was =
well able to watch the slave.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>I got about =C2=BD=E2=80=9D to =
=C2=BE=E2=80=9D total movement of the slave cylinder=E2=80=99s push rod =
at which point =E2=80=93 pedal depressed to the floor =E2=80=93 the =
clutch was released ie I could turn the flange that couples to the =
driveshaft by hand. =C2=BD=E2=80=9D depression=E2=80=A6..no movement of =
the flange. ie everything in the last =
=C2=BC=E2=80=9D.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>That=E2=80=99s got to be =
hydraulics???<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into =
master with the slave. But I=E2=80=99m not optimistic as I=E2=80=99ve =
tried bleeding several times. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>My clutch master cylinder has been =
in the car since I=E2=80=99ve owned it. +/- 25 years. Am tempted to =
replace it but hate throwing parts at a problem. Good =
idea?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Another thing=E2=80=A6..I do confess to never having =
changed the fluid 100%. I always push a load through and out when I have =
to bleed the brakes but that=E2=80=99s mercifully seldom. =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>Any =
comments=E2=80=A6.particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 =E2=80=9C =
travel???<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

--===============1390258852224645207==--

---

From: healeyguy--- via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 12:53:13 +0000 (UTC)

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Simon et alHydraulics in vehicles, especially in the configuration of our A=
ustin Healeys require repair and/or replacement periodically. The aluminum =
cylinders are compromised by accumulated moisture in the fluid, lack of use=
, worn rubber bits and a host of other stuff. For the folks who have owned =
their cars for 50-60 years, how many times have you worked on or had the hy=
draulics worked on? How many years have your car sat in the garage because =
the hydraulics are not functioning properly?=C2=A0This is a maintenance iss=
ue. Owned the Red Car for nearly 60 years and have resorted to having a reb=
uilt set of cylinders on the shelf should something not work correctly duri=
ng an "exercise" run on the old girl. No offense meant ladies.When I commut=
ed daily to school and work or drove across country in the 1960's hydraulic=
s were not a major issue in the reliability category.=C2=A0 Probably a litt=
le different today with limited driving ...Perry=C2=A0

-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan via Healeys <[email-masked]>
To: 'Healeys' <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tue, Oct 5, 2021 11:16 am
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch

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=E2=80=99ve been engaged on other things until recently. However, the clutc=
h continues to be an issue.We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldn=E2=80=99t =
budge until we changed engine=E2=80=99s angle, then it slotted in.With the =
aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think and hope, determined that t=
he clutch itself can work=E2=80=A6.. =C2=A0With the car in 4th and drive sh=
aft disconnected I depressed the clutch pedal by hand. With the tunnel cove=
r off I was well able to watch the slave.I got about =C2=BD=E2=80=9D to =C2=
=BE=E2=80=9D total movement of the slave cylinder=E2=80=99s push rod at whi=
ch point =E2=80=93 pedal depressed to the floor =E2=80=93 the clutch was re=
leased ie I could turn the flange that couples to the driveshaft by hand. =
=C2=BD=E2=80=9D depression=E2=80=A6..no movement of the flange. ie everythi=
ng in the last =C2=BC=E2=80=9D.That=E2=80=99s got to be hydraulics???I=E2=
=80=99ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into master with the slave=
. But I=E2=80=99m not optimistic as I=E2=80=99ve tried bleeding several tim=
es. My clutch master cylinder has been in the car since I=E2=80=99ve owned =
it. +/- 25 years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a pro=
blem. Good idea?Another thing=E2=80=A6..I do confess to never having change=
d the fluid 100%. I always push a load through and out when I have to bleed=
 the brakes but that=E2=80=99s mercifully seldom. Any comments=E2=80=A6.par=
ticularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 =E2=80=9C travel???Simon =C2=A0

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<div style=3D"color:black;font: 10pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Simon e=
t al
<div>Hydraulics in vehicles, especially in the configuration of our Austin =
Healeys require repair and/or replacement periodically. The aluminum cylind=
ers are compromised by accumulated moisture in the fluid, lack of use, worn=
 rubber bits and a host of other stuff. For the folks who have owned their =
cars for 50-60 years, how many times have you worked on or had the hydrauli=
cs worked on? How many years have your car sat in the garage because the hy=
draulics are not functioning properly?&nbsp;</div>

<div>This is a maintenance issue. Owned the Red Car for nearly 60 years and=
 have resorted to having a rebuilt set of cylinders on the shelf should som=
ething not work correctly during an "exercise" run on the old girl. No offe=
nse meant ladies.</div>

<div>When I commuted daily to school and work or drove across country in th=
e 1960's hydraulics were not a major issue in the reliability category.&nbs=
p; Probably a little different today with limited driving ...</div>

<div>Perry&nbsp;</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><br>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
 size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Simon Lachlan via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: 'Healeys' &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Tue, Oct 5, 2021 11:16 am<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch<br>
<br>

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<div class=3D"yiv7351174600WordSection1">
<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">Hi,</div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">I=E2=80=99ve been engaged on other th=
ings until recently. However, the clutch continues to be an issue.</div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldn=
=E2=80=99t budge until we changed engine=E2=80=99s angle, then it slotted i=
n.</div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">With the aid of an old email of Micha=
els I have, I think and hope, determined that the clutch itself can work=E2=
=80=A6..</div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal"> &nbsp;</div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">With the car in 4<sup>th</sup> and dr=
ive shaft disconnected I depressed the clutch pedal by hand. With the tunne=
l cover off I was well able to watch the slave.</div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">I got about =C2=BD=E2=80=9D to =C2=BE=
=E2=80=9D total movement of the slave cylinder=E2=80=99s push rod at which =
point =E2=80=93 pedal depressed to the floor =E2=80=93 the clutch was relea=
sed ie I could turn the flange that couples to the driveshaft by hand. =C2=
=BD=E2=80=9D depression=E2=80=A6..no movement of the flange. ie everything =
in the last =C2=BC=E2=80=9D.</div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">That=E2=80=99s got to be hydraulics??=
?</div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again, maybe pu=
shing backwards into master with the slave. But I=E2=80=99m not optimistic =
as I=E2=80=99ve tried bleeding several times. </div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">My clutch master cylinder has been in=
 the car since I=E2=80=99ve owned it. +/- 25 years. Am tempted to replace i=
t but hate throwing parts at a problem. Good idea?</div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">Another thing=E2=80=A6..I do confess =
to never having changed the fluid 100%. I always push a load through and ou=
t when I have to bleed the brakes but that=E2=80=99s mercifully seldom. </d=
iv>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">Any comments=E2=80=A6.particularly re=
 the 1/2 to 3/4 =E2=80=9C travel???</div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal">Simon</div>

<div class=3D"yiv7351174600MsoNormal"> &nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<br>
</font></div>
</div>
</div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 07:31:44 -0700

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re: "... you may find that you do not have to use so much clutch pedal ..."

I've read in a couple places that 'the clutch pedal should always be 
pressed all the way to the floor' (or similar). My Mustang's owner's 
manual says it, and IIRC I've read it WRT Healeys and other manual 
gearbox'd cars. No explanation was given, and I've just assumed this 
assures the clutch is disengaged as much as possible to avoid crunching 
gears. Anyone know the canonical reason?

My BN2 has a 'pedal shaker'--Curt A. will know what I'm referring 
to--the pedal hits the poorly-shaped aftermarket downpipe before full 
travel.

Bob

On 10/6/2021 5:03 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Simon,  that does not sound bad to me.  It is hard to actually 
> determine how far the clutch pedal depresses (i.e., half way) so it 
> may not be quite in the last ¼ of travel.  If the clutch arm starts to 
> move once you have taken up the slack in the pedal, then I think all 
> is OK.  I assume the cotter pin that secures the pedal arm to the 
> master cylinder pushrod is in good shape – these do wear and I have 
> replaced mine several times.  When they are worn you can have a fair 
> bit of clutch pedal movement before the slack is taken up.  Solution 
> is easy and cheap – replace the cotter pin.
>
> I still have my g’box cover off, so I slipped out and checked mine.  
> My clutch arm does start to move once I have taken the slack out of 
> the pedal and moves a total of 5/8”, which I measured at the centre 
> cotter pin that goes through the clutch arm.  I estimated that the 
> clutch disengages enough that I can turn the output flange by hand 
> when the clutch is about 5/8 depressed.  Probably not ¾ depressed as 
> you suggest yours is, but that, as I said, is hard to estimate.
>
> Thinking about it (i.e., this is theory not empirical knowledge!) 
> consider that you have a new clutch disk and perhaps you re-faced the 
> flywheel, or may have “roughed it up” with some emery to remove any 
> glazing.  Regardless if you did the latter or not, the two surfaces 
> (clutch disk to flywheel) have not bedded in and so will have to be 
> fully disengaged to turn the flange by hand.  With a bit of use, after 
> bedding in,  they will disengage a little more readily and you may 
> find that you do not have to use so much clutch pedal.  I imagine this 
> will not be a big difference, but just slight.  This is much the same 
> as drum brakes, which, after new shoes have been fitted, should be 
> re-adjusted after a few hundred miles to take up clearance from 
> bedding in.  Of course the clutch (and disk brakes) take up that 
> clearance automatically.  I think that is sound thinking, and I am 
> confident if it isn’t someone will tell me 😊.
>
> Bottom line, if the clutch is disengaging at ¾ depression of the pedal 
> sufficiently that you can turn the flange by hand, AND if the clutch 
> arm begins to move once the slack is taken up in the clutch pedal, I’d 
> say you are OK.
>
> Let us know how it goes.
>
> Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys <[email-masked]> *On Behalf Of *Simon 
> Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* October 5, 2021 11:16 AM
> *To:* 'Healeys' <[email-masked]>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Clutch
>
> Hi,
>
> I’ve been engaged on other things until recently. However, the clutch 
> continues to be an issue.
>
> We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldn’t budge until we changed 
> engine’s angle, then it slotted in.
>
> With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think and hope, 
> determined that the clutch itself can work…..
>
> With the car in 4^th and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the 
> clutch pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to 
> watch the slave.
>
> I got about ½” to ¾” total movement of the slave cylinder’s push rod 
> at which point – pedal depressed to the floor – the clutch was 
> released ie I could turn the flange that couples to the driveshaft by 
> hand. ½” depression…..no movement of the flange. ie everything in the 
> last ¼”.
>
> That’s got to be hydraulics???
>
> I’ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into master with the 
> slave. But I’m not optimistic as I’ve tried bleeding several times.
>
> My clutch master cylinder has been in the car since I’ve owned it. +/- 
> 25 years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a 
> problem. Good idea?
>
> Another thing…..I do confess to never having changed the fluid 100%. I 
> always push a load through and out when I have to bleed the brakes but 
> that’s mercifully seldom.
>
> Any comments….particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 “ travel???
>
> Simon
>
>

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    re: "... you may find that you do not have to use so much clutch
    pedal ..."<br>
    <br>
    I've read in a couple places that 'the clutch pedal should always be
    pressed all the way to the floor' (or similar). My Mustang's owner's
    manual says it, and IIRC I've read it WRT Healeys and other manual
    gearbox'd cars. No explanation was given, and I've just assumed this
    assures the clutch is disengaged as much as possible to avoid
    crunching gears. Anyone know the canonical reason?<br>
    <br>
    My BN2 has a 'pedal shaker'--Curt A. will know what I'm referring
    to--the pedal hits the poorly-shaped aftermarket downpipe before
    full travel.<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/6/2021 5:03 AM, m.g.sharp--- via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal">Simon,  that does not sound bad to me.  It
          is hard to actually determine how far the clutch pedal
          depresses (i.e., half way) so it may not be quite in the last
          ¼ of travel.  If the clutch arm starts to move once you have
          taken up the slack in the pedal, then I think all is OK.  I
          assume the cotter pin that secures the pedal arm to the master
          cylinder pushrod is in good shape – these do wear and I have
          replaced mine several times.  When they are worn you can have
          a fair bit of clutch pedal movement before the slack is taken
          up.  Solution is easy and cheap – replace the cotter pin.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">I still have my g’box cover off, so I
          slipped out and checked mine.  My clutch arm does start to
          move once I have taken the slack out of the pedal and moves a
          total of 5/8”, which I measured at the centre cotter pin that
          goes through the clutch arm.  I estimated that the clutch
          disengages enough that I can turn the output flange by hand
          when the clutch is about 5/8 depressed.  Probably not ¾
          depressed as you suggest yours is, but that, as I said, is
          hard to estimate.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Thinking about it (i.e., this is theory not
          empirical knowledge!) consider that you have a new clutch disk
          and perhaps you re-faced the flywheel, or may have “roughed it
          up” with some emery to remove any glazing.  Regardless if you
          did the latter or not, the two surfaces (clutch disk to
          flywheel) have not bedded in and so will have to be fully
          disengaged to turn the flange by hand.  With a bit of use,
          after bedding in,  they will disengage a little more readily
          and you may find that you do not have to use so much clutch
          pedal.  I imagine this will not be a big difference, but just
          slight.  This is much the same as drum brakes, which, after
          new shoes have been fitted, should be re-adjusted after a few
          hundred miles to take up clearance from bedding in.  Of course
          the clutch (and disk brakes) take up that clearance
          automatically.  I think that is sound thinking, and I am
          confident if it isn’t someone will tell me <span
            style="font-family:&quot;Segoe UI Emoji&quot;,sans-serif">😊</span>.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Bottom line, if the clutch is disengaging
          at ¾ depression of the pedal sufficiently that you can turn
          the flange by hand, AND if the clutch arm begins to move once
          the slack is taken up in the clutch pedal, I’d say you are OK.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Let us know how it goes.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Mirek<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <div>
          <div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
            1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
            <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
                  style="mso-fareast-language:EN-CA" lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
                style="mso-fareast-language:EN-CA" lang="EN-US"> Healeys
                <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <b>On Behalf Of
                </b>Simon Lachlan via Healeys<br>
                <b>Sent:</b> October 5, 2021 11:16 AM<br>
                <b>To:</b> 'Healeys' <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
                <b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Clutch<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          </div>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Hi,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I’ve been engaged on
            other things until recently. However, the clutch continues
            to be an issue.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">We got the gearbox back
            in OK. Wouldn’t budge until we changed engine’s angle, then
            it slotted in.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">With the aid of an old
            email of Michaels I have, I think and hope, determined that
            the clutch itself can work…..<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">With the car in 4<sup>th</sup>
            and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the clutch pedal by
            hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to watch the
            slave.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I got about ½” to ¾”
            total movement of the slave cylinder’s push rod at which
            point – pedal depressed to the floor – the clutch was
            released ie I could turn the flange that couples to the
            driveshaft by hand. ½” depression…..no movement of the
            flange. ie everything in the last ¼”.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">That’s got to be
            hydraulics???<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I’ll bleed it again,
            maybe pushing backwards into master with the slave. But I’m
            not optimistic as I’ve tried bleeding several times. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">My clutch master
            cylinder has been in the car since I’ve owned it. +/- 25
            years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a
            problem. Good idea?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Another thing…..I do
            confess to never having changed the fluid 100%. I always
            push a load through and out when I have to bleed the brakes
            but that’s mercifully seldom. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Any
            comments….particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 “ travel???<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
      </div>
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