Subject: [Healeys] Side curtain sockets exterior thread description

From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2024 07:56:25 -0500

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Can anyone please tell me the thread size of the side curtain sockets
including the TPI, pitch, diameter, etc--and where I might purchase a die
for same?

Best--Michael Oritt

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Can a=
nyone please tell me the thread size of the side curtain sockets including =
the TPI, pitch, diameter, etc--and where I might purchase a die for same?<b=
r></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div=
 class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div><=
/div>

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_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2024 13:57:51 -0500

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My goal has been and continues to take the "wobbliness" out of the side
curtains which results from having the unthreaded pins drop-fit into the
unthreaded sockets and to give as good a weather seal as possible.  To that
end, several years ago I had a machinist make four brackets to replace the
stock-style brackets which came with the NICAL side curtains.  The new
brackets are machined out of a solid billet of AL.  They are about 5/16"
thick and are much stiffer than what came with the curtains. I attach them
to the curtain frames with SS machine screws and nuts so the brackets are
firmly mounted to the side curtain frames.

Instead of having fixed pins on the lower leg of the brackets they are
drilled to receive chrome plated button-head M10x1.50 screws about 1-3/4"
long which pass through the brackets.  I picked that size because the OD of
the screws is just a bit larger than the smooth interior of the stock
sockets. I was able to use the screws as taps, and with a bit of machine
oil and gentle hand I threaded the socket interiors and I can screw the
curtains down onto the sockets with a T-handle and largely eliminate the
wobble that was inherent with the stock system where smooth pins simply
dropped into the smooth sockets.  The screws are loosely retained in the
brackets with rubber washers slid up onto the shank and under the brackets
which keeps them from falling out when I store the curtains, and also
provide a bit of protection against scratching the top surface of the
sockets.

Initially everything was very good but over several years' use two of the
four sockets--which are threaded into the wooden blocks--have become loose
because of wear in the wooden blocks' thread and I can no longer draw the
button head screws tight without the sockets rotating in the blocks, etc.

I have a couple of solutions in mind but all involve getting the sockets
firmly attached to the car.  The easiest would involve replacing the wood
blocks with metal ones fixed to the doors' interiors with holes tapped to
screw the sockets into (which would preserve the eccentric adjustment the
sockets furnish) but in any case I need to know what is the thread on the
sockets.  The set of dies I have are not of sufficient diameter to
accommodate the exterior of the sockets for sizing and in any case I doubt
that the thread is either SAE or Metric.

I hope this long explanation explains my problem and thanks for your
interest.  BTW I will post pics, hopefully tomorrow, of the brackets and
fasteners.  I have no pride of authorship and hereby waive all rights and
release the concept to any other semi-compulsive owner of any
side-curtain-equipped vehicle.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Nov 21, 2024 at 7:56=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.=
com>

> including the TPI, pitch, diameter, etc--and where I might purchase a die

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">My go=
al has been and continues to take the &quot;wobbliness&quot; out of the sid=
e curtains which results from having the unthreaded pins drop-fit into the =
unthreaded sockets and to give as good a weather seal as possible.=C2=A0 To=
 that end, several years ago I had a machinist make four brackets to replac=
e the stock-style brackets which came with the NICAL side curtains.=C2=A0 T=
he new brackets are machined out of a solid billet of AL.=C2=A0 They are ab=
out 5/16&quot; thick and are much stiffer than what came with the curtains.=
 I attach them to the curtain frames with SS machine screws and nuts so the=
 brackets are firmly mounted to the side curtain frames. =C2=A0<br><br>Inst=
ead of having fixed pins on the lower leg of the brackets they are drilled =
to receive chrome plated button-head M10x1.50 screws about 1-3/4&quot; long=
 which pass through the brackets.=C2=A0 I picked that size because the OD o=
f the screws is just a bit larger than the smooth interior of the stock soc=
kets. I was able to use the screws as taps, and with a bit of machine oil a=
nd gentle hand I threaded the socket interiors and I can screw the curtains=
 down onto the sockets with a T-handle and largely eliminate the wobble tha=
t was inherent with the stock system where smooth pins simply dropped into =
the smooth sockets.=C2=A0 The screws are loosely retained in the brackets w=
ith rubber washers slid up onto the shank and under the brackets which keep=
s them from falling out when I store the curtains, and also provide a bit o=
f protection against scratching the top surface of the sockets.<br><br>Init=
ially everything was very good but over several years&#39; use two of the f=
our sockets--which are threaded into the wooden blocks--have become loose b=
ecause of wear in the wooden blocks&#39; thread and I can no longer draw th=
e button head screws tight without the sockets rotating in the blocks, etc.=
<br><br>I have a couple of solutions in mind but all involve getting the so=
ckets firmly attached to the car.=C2=A0 The easiest would involve replacing=
 the wood blocks with metal ones fixed to the doors&#39; interiors with hol=
es tapped to screw the sockets into (which would preserve the eccentric adj=
ustment the sockets furnish) but in any case I need to know what is the thr=
ead on the sockets.=C2=A0 The set of dies I have are not of sufficient diam=
eter to accommodate the exterior of the sockets for sizing and in any case =
I doubt that the thread is either SAE or Metric.<br><br>I hope this long ex=
planation explains my problem and thanks for your interest.=C2=A0 BTW I wil=
l post pics, hopefully tomorrow, of the brackets and fasteners.=C2=A0 I hav=
e no pride of authorship and hereby waive all rights and release the concep=
t to any other semi-compulsive owner of any side-curtain-equipped vehicle.<=
br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div>=
</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">=
On Thu, Nov 21, 2024 at 7:56=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-l=
eft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Can anyone please tell m=
e the thread size of the side curtain sockets including the TPI, pitch, dia=
meter, etc--and where I might purchase a die for same?<br></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael Oritt</div></div=
</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

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From: Hank Leach via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2024 17:31:20 +0000 njBWEl7CBJuh/oM6kTo1Qi0etR7bwOfF0JaDOQ30COpkzpdR8fOKydVTlvvyJsRuiuofVBAik0ZMyYpQ98QRZSQ04Y/h4Ypp/VEsT4kBdGKpmFm5K7wrDBCI

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<div>Michael-can't imagine the time it would take to assemble the =
"weatherproofing" in a rainstorm. Luckily we don't drive these cars today =
in the wet. The design for the original sidescreens caused problems with =
the frail aluminum doors and the weight of them misaligned the door! The =
second and third irritation of the screens were much lighter and accessible=
 to the interior but also inefficient. I don't think they ever were =
intended to be used (except in Britain). Ken Fleming has a variety of these=
 sidescreens available-including a set from Sears! So everyone tried to =
improve the product. Would be interesting to see photos of your =
modification in actual use. BTW that wood door block is one of the few on =
the Healey and Jensen got caught by Austin substituting that cheap solution=
. Also, thinking that the thread inside the door socket might be BPT. =
Regards,Hank<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "Michael Oritt" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>To: "Healeys at Autox" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Sent: November 21, 2024 at 11:17 AM PST =
<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side curtain sockets exterior thread description=
 </div>
<div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: #3333ff;">My =
goal has been and continues to take the "wobbliness" out of the side =
curtains which results from having the unthreaded pins drop-fit into the =
unthreaded sockets and to give as good a weather seal as possible.&nbsp; To=
 that end, several years ago I had a machinist make four brackets to =
replace the stock-style brackets which came with the NICAL side curtains.=
&nbsp; The new brackets are machined out of a solid billet of AL.&nbsp; =
They are about 5/16" thick and are much stiffer than what came with the =
curtains. I attach them to the curtain frames with SS machine screws and =
nuts so the brackets are firmly mounted to the side curtain frames. =
&nbsp;<br><br>Instead of having fixed pins on the lower leg of the brackets=
 they are drilled to receive chrome plated button-head M10x1.50 screws =
about 1-3/4" long which pass through the brackets.&nbsp; I picked that size=
 because the OD of the screws is just a bit larger than the smooth interior=
 of the stock sockets. I was able to use the screws as taps, and with a bit=
 of machine oil and gentle hand I threaded the socket interiors and I can =
screw the curtains down onto the sockets with a T-handle and largely =
eliminate the wobble that was inherent with the stock system where smooth =
pins simply dropped into the smooth sockets.&nbsp; The screws are loosely =
retained in the brackets with rubber washers slid up onto the shank and =
under the brackets which keeps them from falling out when I store the =
curtains, and also provide a bit of protection against scratching the top =
surface of the sockets.<br><br>Initially everything was very good but over =
several years' use two of the four sockets--which are threaded into the =
wooden blocks--have become loose because of wear in the wooden blocks' =
thread and I can no longer draw the button head screws tight without the =
sockets rotating in the blocks, etc.<br><br>I have a couple of solutions in=
 mind but all involve getting the sockets firmly attached to the car.&nbsp;=
 The easiest would involve replacing the wood blocks with metal ones fixed =
to the doors' interiors with holes tapped to screw the sockets into (which =
would preserve the eccentric adjustment the sockets furnish) but in any =
case I need to know what is the thread on the sockets.&nbsp; The set of =
dies I have are not of sufficient diameter to accommodate the exterior of =
the sockets for sizing and in any case I doubt that the thread is either =
SAE or Metric.<br><br>I hope this long explanation explains my problem and =
thanks for your interest.&nbsp; BTW I will post pics, hopefully tomorrow, =
of the brackets and fasteners.&nbsp; I have no pride of authorship and =
hereby waive all rights and release the concept to any other =
semi-compulsive owner of any side-curtain-equipped vehicle.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: #3333ff;">&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: #3333ff;">Best--Michael =
Oritt</div>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Nov 21, 2024 at 7:56=E2=80=AFAM Michael =
Oritt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">michael.oritt@gmail.=
com</a>&gt; wrote:</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:=
 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left: =
1ex;">
<div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: rgb(51,51,=
255);">Can anyone please tell me the thread size of the side curtain =
sockets including the TPI, pitch, diameter, etc--and where I might purchase=
 a die for same?</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: rgb(51,=
51,255);">&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: rgb(51,=
51,255);">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
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[email-masked]

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From: Hank Leach via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2024 19:53:36 +0000 3iJy30qz9wIRmUFp2Uj9vqz5amCCW96tBHw1r6lAbtZ80tWNdh8fL8CI8Dpos7o6S/V3Yx+jx7KKbZMolaGotT8lVCMgj+5MAUzYWsVfJFJE2G8HdLJzQmgf

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<div>You are a brave soul Michael. However, having sliding sidecurtians and=
 a Universal hardtop does make the wet driving experience more enjoyable. =
Very neat modification-professional looking and practical-except for us =
solid sidescreen, floppy hood, soaking wet drivers. Thanks for the photos; =
I added them to my sidescreen archives. Hank<br>-------------------- =
<br><br>From: "Michael Oritt" &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>To: =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Cc: "Healeys at Autox" &lt;healeys@autox.=
team.net&gt; <br>Sent: November 24, 2024 at 10:53 AM PST <br>Subject: Re: =
Re: [Healeys] Side curtain sockets exterior thread description </div>
<div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: #3333ff;">Hank--</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: #3333ff;">&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: #3333ff;">I've attached three =
photos of the NICAL side curtains showing the mounts I had made--<em>"in =
actual use"</em> as requested.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"color: #3333ff;">&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"color: #3333ff;">It does take a few minutes to deploy&nbsp;the =
curtains but in addition to a T-handled Allen wrench used to tighten the =
button-head bolts into the sockets I also carry a small electric driver =
with the appropriate hex tip which makes&nbsp;the task easier and quicker.=
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: #3333ff;">&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: #3333ff;">Best--Michael =
Oritt</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: =
#3333ff;">&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: =
#3333ff;">&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: =
#3333ff;">&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Nov 24, 2024 at 12:31=E2=80=AFPM Hank =
Leach &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; =
border-left: 1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left: 1ex;">
<div>Michael-can't imagine the time it would take to assemble the =
"weatherproofing" in a rainstorm. Luckily we don't drive these cars today =
in the wet. The design for the original sidescreens caused problems with =
the frail aluminum doors and the weight of them misaligned the door! The =
second and third irritation of the screens were much lighter and accessible=
 to the interior but also inefficient. I don't think they ever were =
intended to be used (except in Britain). Ken Fleming has a variety of these=
 sidescreens available-including a set from Sears! So everyone tried to =
improve the product. Would be interesting to see photos of your =
modification in actual use. BTW that wood door block is one of the few on =
the Healey and Jensen got caught by Austin substituting that cheap solution=
. Also, thinking that the thread inside the door socket might be BPT. =
Regards,Hank<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "Michael Oritt" &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt; <br>To: "Healeys at Autox"=
 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt; <br>Sent: November 21, 2024=
 at 11:17 AM PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side curtain sockets exterior =
thread description</div>
<div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:=
 rgb(51,51,255);">My goal has been and continues to take the "wobbliness" =
out of the side curtains which results from having the unthreaded pins =
drop-fit into the unthreaded sockets and to give as good a weather seal as =
possible.&nbsp; To that end, several years ago I had a machinist make four =
brackets to replace the stock-style brackets which came with the NICAL side=
 curtains.&nbsp; The new brackets are machined out of a solid billet of AL.=
&nbsp; They are about 5/16" thick and are much stiffer than what came with =
the curtains. I attach them to the curtain frames with SS machine screws =
and nuts so the brackets are firmly mounted to the side curtain frames. =
&nbsp;<br><br>Instead of having fixed pins on the lower leg of the brackets=
 they are drilled to receive chrome plated button-head M10x1.50 screws =
about 1-3/4" long which pass through the brackets.&nbsp; I picked that size=
 because the OD of the screws is just a bit larger than the smooth interior=
 of the stock sockets. I was able to use the screws as taps, and with a bit=
 of machine oil and gentle hand I threaded the socket interiors and I can =
screw the curtains down onto the sockets with a T-handle and largely =
eliminate the wobble that was inherent with the stock system where smooth =
pins simply dropped into the smooth sockets.&nbsp; The screws are loosely =
retained in the brackets with rubber washers slid up onto the shank and =
under the brackets which keeps them from falling out when I store the =
curtains, and also provide a bit of protection against scratching the top =
surface of the sockets.<br><br>Initially everything was very good but over =
several years' use two of the four sockets--which are threaded into the =
wooden blocks--have become loose because of wear in the wooden blocks' =
thread and I can no longer draw the button head screws tight without the =
sockets rotating in the blocks, etc.<br><br>I have a couple of solutions in=
 mind but all involve getting the sockets firmly attached to the car.&nbsp;=
 The easiest would involve replacing the wood blocks with metal ones fixed =
to the doors' interiors with holes tapped to screw the sockets into (which =
would preserve the eccentric adjustment the sockets furnish) but in any =
case I need to know what is the thread on the sockets.&nbsp; The set of =
dies I have are not of sufficient diameter to accommodate the exterior of =
the sockets for sizing and in any case I doubt that the thread is either =
SAE or Metric.<br><br>I hope this long explanation explains my problem and =
thanks for your interest.&nbsp; BTW I will post pics, hopefully tomorrow, =
of the brackets and fasteners.&nbsp; I have no pride of authorship and =
hereby waive all rights and release the concept to any other =
semi-compulsive owner of any side-curtain-equipped vehicle.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: rgb(51,51,255);">&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: rgb(51,51,255);">Best--Michael=
 Oritt</div>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Nov 21, 2024 at 7:56=E2=80=AFAM Michael =
Oritt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; =
border-left: 1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left: 1ex;">
<div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: rgb(51,51,255);">Can anyone =
please tell me the thread size of the side curtain sockets including the =
TPI, pitch, diameter, etc--and where I might purchase a die for same?</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: rgb(51,51,255);">&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: rgb(51,51,255);">Best--Michael=
 Oritt</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</blockquote>
</div>

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[email-masked]

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