From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 5 22:22:06 2009 From: herb strachman To: MG Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 20:22:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Greetings, I'm installing a new spin on oil filter and would like to know how to remove the old filter bolt to pump. Thanks, Herb Strachman _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 6 06:14:26 2009 From: "Bob Grunau" To: "herb strachman" , "MG" Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 07:21:04 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Hi Herb, I assume you mean a late TD/TF filter? If so, remove oil filter cannister. Install a short piece of 3/8" rod through the two holes in the adapter ( Moss # 435-140, page 5, p/n 131 ) oil filter to pump, now unscrew the adapter. Normal right hand thread. It will be TIGHT, so you will need some leverage. I have used a large pipe wrench sideways across the two sides of the 3/8" rod. Good luck. Bob Grunau -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of herb strachman Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 11:23 PM To: MG Subject: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Greetings, I'm installing a new spin on oil filter and would like to know how to remove the old filter bolt to pump. Thanks, Herb Strachman Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 6 12:33:17 2009 From: Bud Krueger To: Bob Grunau Date: Mon, 06 Apr 2009 13:37:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Herb, you might look at http://www.ttalk.info/Oil_filter.htm for a look at how I did it. Bud Krueger Bob Grunau wrote: > Hi Herb, > I assume you mean a late TD/TF filter? If so, remove oil filter cannister. > Install a short piece of 3/8" rod through the two holes in the adapter ( > Moss # 435-140, page 5, p/n 131 ) oil filter to pump, now unscrew the > adapter. Normal right hand thread. It will be TIGHT, so you will need some > leverage. I have used a large pipe wrench sideways across the two sides of > the 3/8" rod. > Good luck. > Bob Grunau > > -----Original Message----- > From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of herb strachman > Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 11:23 PM > To: MG > Subject: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question > > > Greetings, > I'm installing a new spin on oil filter and would like to know how to remove > the old filter bolt to pump. > Thanks, > Herb Strachman > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 6 12:57:56 2009 From: "Gene Fodor" To: "'Bud Krueger'" Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 13:58:35 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Does anyone know what the difference is between this adaptor and the one that Phil Marino on California makes? Phil's uses a FRAM PH 16 filter. gene -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud Krueger Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 1:38 PM To: Bob Grunau Cc: MG Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Herb, you might look at http://www.ttalk.info/Oil_filter.htm for a look at how I did it. Bud Krueger Bob Grunau wrote: > Hi Herb, > I assume you mean a late TD/TF filter? If so, remove oil filter cannister. > Install a short piece of 3/8" rod through the two holes in the adapter ( > Moss # 435-140, page 5, p/n 131 ) oil filter to pump, now unscrew the > adapter. Normal right hand thread. It will be TIGHT, so you will need some > leverage. I have used a large pipe wrench sideways across the two sides of > the 3/8" rod. > Good luck. > Bob Grunau > > -----Original Message----- > From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of herb strachman > Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 11:23 PM > To: MG > Subject: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question > > > Greetings, > I'm installing a new spin on oil filter and would like to know how to remove > the old filter bolt to pump. > Thanks, > Herb Strachman > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 6 13:12:18 2009 From: "Bob Grunau" To: "Gene Fodor" , "'Bud Krueger'" Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 14:19:05 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Gene, Mine is all steel. I think Phil uses alumimum. You can use any filter as long as it has 3/4"-16 tpi inlet thread. An anti-drain back flap inlet valve is recommended for the horizontal TD/TF position. So Fram- PH-3600,length = 4 15/16" PH-3614, length = 3 19/64 PH-16, length =3 11/16" PH966, length = 3 3/8" ( MGB filter ). Original size CH814 cannisrter filter was 4 1/4" long, so I think the Fram PH-3600 is about the same overall length as the installed cartridge and steel can. BTW, I use Fram numbers as I have a Fram book, I don't recommend them. Cross reference to your favourite filter manufacrurer. tv Bob Grunau -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Gene Fodor Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 1:59 PM To: 'Bud Krueger' Cc: 'MG' Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Does anyone know what the difference is between this adaptor and the one that Phil Marino on California makes? Phil's uses a FRAM PH 16 filter. gene -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud Krueger Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 1:38 PM To: Bob Grunau Cc: MG Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Herb, you might look at http://www.ttalk.info/Oil_filter.htm for a look at how I did it. Bud Krueger Bob Grunau wrote: > Hi Herb, > I assume you mean a late TD/TF filter? If so, remove oil filter cannister. > Install a short piece of 3/8" rod through the two holes in the adapter ( > Moss # 435-140, page 5, p/n 131 ) oil filter to pump, now unscrew the > adapter. Normal right hand thread. It will be TIGHT, so you will need some > leverage. I have used a large pipe wrench sideways across the two sides of > the 3/8" rod. > Good luck. > Bob Grunau > > -----Original Message----- > From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of herb strachman > Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 11:23 PM > To: MG > Subject: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question > > > Greetings, > I'm installing a new spin on oil filter and would like to know how to remove > the old filter bolt to pump. > Thanks, > Herb Strachman > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 6 13:37:28 2009 From: "Gene Fodor" To: "'Bob Grunau'" , "'Bud Krueger'" Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 14:38:06 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Thank you Bob... gf -----Original Message----- From: Bob Grunau [mailto:grunau.garage@sympatico.ca] Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 2:19 PM To: Gene Fodor; 'Bud Krueger' Cc: 'MG' Subject: RE: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Gene, Mine is all steel. I think Phil uses alumimum. You can use any filter as long as it has 3/4"-16 tpi inlet thread. An anti-drain back flap inlet valve is recommended for the horizontal TD/TF position. So Fram- PH-3600,length = 4 15/16" PH-3614, length = 3 19/64 PH-16, length =3 11/16" PH966, length = 3 3/8" ( MGB filter ). Original size CH814 cannisrter filter was 4 1/4" long, so I think the Fram PH-3600 is about the same overall length as the installed cartridge and steel can. BTW, I use Fram numbers as I have a Fram book, I don't recommend them. Cross reference to your favourite filter manufacrurer. tv Bob Grunau -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Gene Fodor Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 1:59 PM To: 'Bud Krueger' Cc: 'MG' Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Does anyone know what the difference is between this adaptor and the one that Phil Marino on California makes? Phil's uses a FRAM PH 16 filter. gene -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud Krueger Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 1:38 PM To: Bob Grunau Cc: MG Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Herb, you might look at http://www.ttalk.info/Oil_filter.htm for a look at how I did it. Bud Krueger Bob Grunau wrote: > Hi Herb, > I assume you mean a late TD/TF filter? If so, remove oil filter cannister. > Install a short piece of 3/8" rod through the two holes in the adapter ( > Moss # 435-140, page 5, p/n 131 ) oil filter to pump, now unscrew the > adapter. Normal right hand thread. It will be TIGHT, so you will need some > leverage. I have used a large pipe wrench sideways across the two sides of > the 3/8" rod. > Good luck. > Bob Grunau > > -----Original Message----- > From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of herb strachman > Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 11:23 PM > To: MG > Subject: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question > > > Greetings, > I'm installing a new spin on oil filter and would like to know how to remove > the old filter bolt to pump. > Thanks, > Herb Strachman > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 6 16:23:27 2009 From: "Ed's Shop" To: "Jeff Snook" Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 17:25:33 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question <> ABSOLUTLEY, Bob!! Fram will NEVER darken MY Shop doorstop!! NAPA has the best stats I have read with Wix right behind. Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 6 20:41:13 2009 From: herb strachman To: Bob Grunau , Bud Krueger Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 18:37:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question Thanks to all who responded to my question. The change went like a piece of cake. Herb --- On Mon, 4/6/09, Bud Krueger wrote: From: Bud Krueger Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question To: "Bob Grunau" Cc: "herb strachman" , "MG" Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 1:37 PM Herb, you might look at http://www.ttalk.info/Oil_filter.htm for a look at how I did it. Bud Krueger Bob Grunau wrote: > Hi Herb, > I assume you mean a late TD/TF filter? If so, remove oil filter cannister. > Install a short piece of 3/8" rod through the two holes in the adapter ( > Moss # 435-140, page 5, p/n 131 ) oil filter to pump, now unscrew the > adapter. Normal right hand thread. It will be TIGHT, so you will need some > leverage. I have used a large pipe wrench sideways across the two sides of > the 3/8" rod. > Good luck. > Bob Grunau > > -----Original Message----- > From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of herb strachman > Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 11:23 PM > To: MG > Subject: [Mg-t] Spin on oil filter question > > > Greetings, > I'm installing a new spin on oil filter and would like to know how to remove > the old filter bolt to pump. > Thanks, > Herb Strachman > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 8 18:23:42 2009 From: rfeibusch1@earthlink.net To: britishcarnetwork@gmail.com, morris@autox.team.net, Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 19:24:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mg-t] THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR DAY - 9 -13 - 09 32nd year in the San Francisco Bay Area..... THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR DAY SUNDAY b" SEPTEMBER 13th, 2009 And now for something completely different..... Join your British car friends, once again, for a smashing day at the Brisbane Marina. Over 200 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once again gather in the Bay Area for our 32nd Annual British Car Meet. We have been doing this on the same weekend for over 30 years and just because the times, they are a-changin,b webll be a-changinb with the times. After careful consideration of the present economy, fading sponsorship, and smaller attendance, combined with the decentralization of the hobby in general and a number of new competing Northern California events, we have decided to try something that is quite like the first British Car Meet held in Palo Alto in 1978. A one day FREE event .......... Thatbs right, FREE. b" Sunday b" Parking Lot Show & Tell: This will be a simple, no fees, no frills, no awards gathering of British and Arcane car enthusiasts. We have made arrangements with the good folks at the Sierra Point Yacht Club to set up in the parking lots around the club. As last year, the Yacht Club will be offering an optional Sunday brunch and coffee. It all starts Sunday morning at 8:30AM. b" Sunday b" Bay To Breakers Tour To Cameronbs Pub: These tours take you over some of the most beautiful roads in Northern California. There will be two optional routes; one direct yet still quite scenic, and another with a backroad component. We will be starting tour cars from a staging area by the entrance. Cars will leave in small groups between about 8:30 and 10:00AM - The shorter route should take less than an hour and the backroads route will take a bit more than an hour... Cars should start gathering at Cameron's at about 10:00AM, a combination of early tour drivers and people who live near the coast. Directions To The Brisbane Marina: The Brisbane Marina is located on Sierra Point, just east of the Bayshore Freeway (101) in Brisbane, between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the Marina. Cameron's Pub is located at 1410 S. Cabrillo Hwy in Half Moon Bay. It is just south of downtown on the west side of the coast highway. Information: 310-392-6605 b" e-mail: Website: www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 13 16:00:08 2009 From: na7db@yahoo.com To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 14:00:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mg-t] Gas leak Jet Bearing Gentlemen, I have gas leak coming down around the jet bearing. I have never done any work on the Carbs. How easy/hard is it to replace the jet bearing kit? I'd like to replace it as it sits, rather than have to take everything apart. I am hoping to take the TD on the AZBeat drive this weekend, so I am not wanting to do a total tear down, just fix the leak. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 12:13:23 2009 From: Bob Howard To: na7db@yahoo.com Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 13:04:26 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Gas leak Jet Bearing It can be done in the car easily enough. Fig B.19 in the WS manual appears quite complicated, but once the pieces are in your hand they are easy to identify and to refit. The only fussy parts are getting the two dished brass gland washers and the cork glands into place. The upper dished washer sometimes sticks in the jet bearing. Tapping the bearing on your workbench or with a screwdriver handle will cause it to drop out. Soak the corks in oil for 24 hours or longer before trying to fit them as they sometimes arrive dry and brittle. Use new copper washers unless the old ones are perfect. Some prefer O-rings to the cork. There once was a tech article in TSO that might give the size of the O-ring. Bob On Mon, 13 Apr 2009 14:00:48 -0700 (PDT) na7db@yahoo.com writes: > Gentlemen, > > I have gas leak coming down around the jet bearing. I have never > done any > work on the Carbs. How easy/hard is it to replace the jet bearing > kit? I'd > like to replace it as it sits, rather than have to take everything > apart. I > am hoping to take the TD on the AZBeat drive this weekend, so I am > not wanting > to do a total tear down, just fix the leak. ____________________________________________________________ Click here to find the right stock, bonds, and mutual funds. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFOGdRL5mX0S2icuAQLEFE5q7HNAeXAOuvrMZI7LgRgveAROAgf1u/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 16:33:56 2009 From: "Howard Battan" To: "MG" Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 14:34:44 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Hi everyone. I've got a '54 TF with the 1250 engine. Over the three+ years I have owned it, the starter has occasionally not engaged when the switch has been pulled. Normally, reaching down to the starter and giving a small turn to the armature on the square protrusion used to unjam the starter from the flywheel has been enough for the starter to work properly. Normally after this, the starter will work properly for a long time. This spring the car started normally for a few days, but in the past few times I've driven it, it has needed this 'tweaking' more and more frequently. Today it would not start first try, so I again tweaked the armature, but it took many tries to get it to connect. After shutting the engine down, it was again not starting normally. Am I correct in assuming that a likely cause of this is worn brushes and.or worn commutator? If so, is it an easy repair? Or should I be looking for something else? Thanks for any help you can offer. Howard Battan '54 TF '57 A '79 B _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 16:42:31 2009 From: Terry Sanders To: MG , Howard Battan Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 14:43:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Howard, your problem might be electrical, check the through bolts that hold the starter motor together , they might be loose....otherwise, dirt and grease willkeep the Bendix from working. Terry in Oakland --- On Tue, 4/14/09, Howard Battan wrote: From: Howard Battan Subject: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue To: "MG" Date: Tuesday, April 14, 2009, 2:34 PM Hi everyone. I've got a '54 TF with the 1250 engine. Over the three+ years I have owned it, the starter has occasionally not engaged when the switch has been pulled. Normally, reaching down to the starter and giving a small turn to the armature on the square protrusion used to unjam the starter from the flywheel has been enough for the starter to work properly. Normally after this, the starter will work properly for a long time. This spring the car started normally for a few days, but in the past few times I've driven it, it has needed this 'tweaking' more and more frequently. Today it would not start first try, so I again tweaked the armature, but it took many tries to get it to connect. After shutting the engine down, it was again not starting normally. Am I correct in assuming that a likely cause of this is worn brushes and.or worn commutator? If so, is it an easy repair? Or should I be looking for something else? Thanks for any help you can offer. Howard Battan '54 TF '57 A '79 B _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 17:36:39 2009 From: "Lew Palmer" To: "'Howard Battan'" , "'MG'" Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:43:25 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue If the starter spins but does not engage, the problem is likely in the Bendix. Clean around it thoroughly and lubricate it lightly with a light oil - not much, just enough so as the driving gear is free to spin. Since you describe the problem as "jamming", not "not turning" I am assuming it is not electrical in nature. Cheers, Lew Palmer -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Howard Battan Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 4:35 PM To: MG Subject: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Hi everyone. I've got a '54 TF with the 1250 engine. Over the three+ years I have owned it, the starter has occasionally not engaged when the switch has been pulled. Normally, reaching down to the starter and giving a small turn to the armature on the square protrusion used to unjam the starter from the flywheel has been enough for the starter to work properly. Normally after this, the starter will work properly for a long time. This spring the car started normally for a few days, but in the past few times I've driven it, it has needed this 'tweaking' more and more frequently. Today it would not start first try, so I again tweaked the armature, but it took many tries to get it to connect. After shutting the engine down, it was again not starting normally. Am I correct in assuming that a likely cause of this is worn brushes and.or worn commutator? If so, is it an easy repair? Or should I be looking for something else? Thanks for any help you can offer. Howard Battan '54 TF '57 A '79 B Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 17:43:36 2009 From: "Hermance, Jonathan" To: "Howard Battan" , "MG" Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 16:35:39 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Howard, It has been awhile, but memory says my version of your difficulties was caused by the bronze bushings (MOSS 148-600 and 148-500) at each end of the armature finally wearing enough to allow the outside of the armature to physically and perhaps magnetically bind up against the inner surface of the field coil when electrical current was supplied. Jon TC TD TF SLC UT -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Howard Battan Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 3:35 PM To: MG Subject: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Hi everyone. I've got a '54 TF with the 1250 engine. Over the three+ years I have owned it, the starter has occasionally not engaged when the switch has been pulled. Normally, reaching down to the starter and giving a small turn to the armature on the square protrusion used to unjam the starter from the flywheel has been enough for the starter to work properly. Normally after this, the starter will work properly for a long time. This spring the car started normally for a few days, but in the past few times I've driven it, it has needed this 'tweaking' more and more frequently. Today it would not start first try, so I again tweaked the armature, but it took many tries to get it to connect. After shutting the engine down, it was again not starting normally. Am I correct in assuming that a likely cause of this is worn brushes and.or worn commutator? If so, is it an easy repair? Or should I be looking for something else? Thanks for any help you can offer. Howard Battan '54 TF '57 A '79 B _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 17:58:59 2009 From: To: "Howard Battan" , "MG" Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 18:59:57 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Hi Howard, If originality is not an issue, these folks can probably supply a replacement starter. I got a generator from them for 100 bucks, but it was Lucas "India", and had no markings. Looked for all the world like a Lucas, but without the Lucas stampings. (Disclaimer: I have no connection or interest, they just seemed like good people.) BUDDA'S AUTO MARINE ELECTRIC 70 RIVERSIDE DR VERSAILLES, CT 06383 United States 860-822-8756 BUDDA42@COMCAST.NET I sent it back and had my Lucas generator rebuilt at NRE Automotive Rebuilders, Hamden, CT. Pete Thiel '53 TD British MOTORCYCLES ----- Original Message ----- From: "Howard Battan" To: "MG" Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 5:34 PM Subject: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue > Hi everyone. I've got a '54 TF with the 1250 engine. Over the three+ years > I have owned it, the starter has occasionally not engaged when the switch > has been pulled. Normally, reaching down to the starter and giving a small > turn to the armature on the square protrusion used to unjam the starter > from the flywheel has been enough for the starter to work properly. > Normally after this, the starter will work properly for a long time. > > This spring the car started normally for a few days, but in the past few > times I've driven it, it has needed this 'tweaking' more and more > frequently. Today it would not start first try, so I again tweaked the > armature, but it took many tries to get it to connect. After shutting the > engine down, it was again not starting normally. > > Am I correct in assuming that a likely cause of this is worn brushes > and.or worn commutator? If so, is it an easy repair? Or should I be > looking for something else? > > Thanks for any help you can offer. > > Howard Battan > '54 TF > '57 A > '79 B _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 18:01:11 2009 From: "Howard Battan" To: "MG" Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 16:02:07 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Thanks to all who have posted. I think I misled you, though. The starter is not spinning, nor is it jamming - the reference to jamming was that I used the protrusion on the armature that is designed to unjam the starter to turn the armature a bit. I can do this by hand, without a wrench, so it turns quite easily. And the starter does not spin, as in if the bendix was not working properly. I'm pretty sure it is an internal electrical issue. All the fasteners seem to be tight, and the starter is not loose. I was hoping that someone might have had similar issues and could pass on a recommended solution. Also, I was hoping I might not have to pull the starter, but I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet. I haven't checked yet, but I assume I get replacement brushes from the usual suspects. Thanks again Howard ----- Original Message ----- From: "Howard Battan" To: "MG" Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 2:34 PM Subject: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue > Hi everyone. I've got a '54 TF with the 1250 engine. Over the three+ years > I have owned it, the starter has occasionally not engaged when the switch > has been pulled. Normally, reaching down to the starter and giving a small > turn to the armature on the square protrusion used to unjam the starter > from the flywheel has been enough for the starter to work properly. > Normally after this, the starter will work properly for a long time. > > This spring the car started normally for a few days, but in the past few > times I've driven it, it has needed this 'tweaking' more and more > frequently. Today it would not start first try, so I again tweaked the > armature, but it took many tries to get it to connect. After shutting the > engine down, it was again not starting normally. > > Am I correct in assuming that a likely cause of this is worn brushes > and.or worn commutator? If so, is it an easy repair? Or should I be > looking for something else? > > Thanks for any help you can offer. > > Howard Battan > '54 TF > '57 A > '79 B _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 18:07:10 2009 From: "Howard Battan" To: , "MG" Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 16:08:05 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Thanks. I hope it does not need to go that far, but if it does, I'll check with them. The mechanic that checked the car over when I first got it said that it was the most original engine compartment he had ever seen on a TF, so I'd like to stay with originals if I can. But I'm not showing it, other than in our local shows for fun, so concours is not an issue. And thanks for the rebuilder's link. Howard ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Howard Battan" ; "MG" Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 3:59 PM Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue > Hi Howard, > If originality is not an issue, these folks can probably supply a > replacement starter. I got a generator from them for 100 bucks, but it was > Lucas "India", and had no markings. Looked for all the world like a Lucas, > but without the Lucas stampings. (Disclaimer: I have no connection or > interest, they just seemed like good people.) > BUDDA'S AUTO MARINE ELECTRIC > 70 RIVERSIDE DR > VERSAILLES, CT 06383 > United States > 860-822-8756 > BUDDA42@COMCAST.NET > > I sent it back and had my Lucas generator rebuilt at NRE Automotive > Rebuilders, Hamden, CT. > > Pete Thiel > '53 TD > British MOTORCYCLES _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 18:09:05 2009 From: "Howard Battan" To: "Hermance, Jonathan" , "MG" Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 16:10:02 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Ahh, now that sounds like a possibility I hadn't thought of. Thanks. Guess I'd better get out the toolkit. Howard ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hermance, Jonathan" To: "Howard Battan" ; "MG" Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 3:35 PM Subject: RE: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Howard, It has been awhile, but memory says my version of your difficulties was caused by the bronze bushings (MOSS 148-600 and 148-500) at each end of the armature finally wearing enough to allow the outside of the armature to physically and perhaps magnetically bind up against the inner surface of the field coil when electrical current was supplied. Jon TC TD TF SLC UT -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Howard Battan Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 3:35 PM To: MG Subject: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Hi everyone. I've got a '54 TF with the 1250 engine. Over the three+ years I have owned it, the starter has occasionally not engaged when the switch has been pulled. Normally, reaching down to the starter and giving a small turn to the armature on the square protrusion used to unjam the starter from the flywheel has been enough for the starter to work properly. Normally after this, the starter will work properly for a long time. This spring the car started normally for a few days, but in the past few times I've driven it, it has needed this 'tweaking' more and more frequently. Today it would not start first try, so I again tweaked the armature, but it took many tries to get it to connect. After shutting the engine down, it was again not starting normally. Am I correct in assuming that a likely cause of this is worn brushes and.or worn commutator? If so, is it an easy repair? Or should I be looking for something else? Thanks for any help you can offer. Howard Battan '54 TF '57 A '79 B _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 18:30:04 2009 From: "Lawrence Karpman" To: "MG" Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 18:30:46 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation I've read in several places that on the late TD with the oil bath air cleaner, that the mixture should be leaned out a flat or two after carb tuning to compensate for the reduced air flow of the oil bath cleaner which, after it is re-installed, will result in the mixture being too rich. I know some of these air cleaner tops are mashed down from overtightening, but mine is not. I'd appreciate the thoughts of the group. TIA Larry _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 19:07:59 2009 From: Dave and Liz DuBois To: Bob Howard Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:08:49 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Gas leak Jet Bearing Using 'O' rings is a two edged sword. The size needed is a 010. Definitely DO NOT use a plain nitrile 'O' ring as it will swell in a very short period of time when in the presence of fuel and make it impossible to pull the choke out. Viton is a better material as it will not swell as quickly or as much when exposed to fuel, but it will ultimately swell to the point were the choke cannot be pulled out. The absolutely best 'O' rings to use are teflon, but it requires two in each position to work correctly. Teflon 'O' rings are available from Tom Bryant. Tom can be contacted at: tbryant@suscom-maine.net or 207-443-6338. Before attacking the seals, check the screw that holds the linkage fork to the bottom of the jet. The screw often loosen up and leaks around the fork, making it appear that the seals leak. Removing the screw, cleaning the threads and reinstalling it with some locktite will cure any leaks at this point. Cheers, Dave _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 19:10:50 2009 From: John Seim To: Lawrence Karpman Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:11:44 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation That is how I set them. The size of the air pipe supplying the two carbs is not twice the area of the 1 1/4 opening, so not as much air flow occurs. John Seim Irvine, CA On Apr 14, 2009, at 4:30 PM, Lawrence Karpman wrote: > I've read in several places that on the late TD with the oil bath > air cleaner, that the mixture should be leaned out a flat or two > after carb tuning to compensate for the reduced air flow of the oil > bath cleaner which, after it is re-installed, will result in the > mixture being too rich. > > I know some of these air cleaner tops are mashed down from > overtightening, but mine is not. I'd appreciate the thoughts of the > group. > > TIA > > Larry _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 19:17:27 2009 From: brown dan To: Bob Howard , Dave and Liz DuBois Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:18:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Gas leak Jet Bearing Gentlemen, Another email and the Moss Carb video pointed to the jet and that screw. I undid the jet lever and screwed the jet back tight. I reattached the lever and started it up. NO Leak. I know that I need to do a total carb overhaul, maybe after summer. Thanks for the help and info. Best Wishes, Dan --- On Tue, 4/14/09, Dave and Liz DuBois wrote: From: Dave and Liz DuBois Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Gas leak Jet Bearing To: "Bob Howard" Cc: na7db@yahoo.com, mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, April 14, 2009, 5:08 PM Using 'O' rings is a two edged sword. The size needed is a 010. Definitely DO NOT use a plain nitrile 'O' ring as it will swell in a very short period of time when in the presence of fuel and make it impossible to pull the choke out. Viton is a better material as it will not swell as quickly or as much when exposed to fuel, but it will ultimately swell to the point were the choke cannot be pulled out. The absolutely best 'O' rings to use are teflon, but it requires two in each position to work correctly. Teflon 'O' rings are available from Tom Bryant. Tom can be contacted at: tbryant@suscom-maine.net or 207-443-6338. Before attacking the seals, check the screw that holds the linkage fork to the bottom of the jet. The screw often loosen up and leaks around the fork, making it appear that the seals leak. Removing the screw, cleaning the threads and reinstalling it with some locktite will cure any leaks at this point. Cheers, Dave _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 14 20:19:05 2009 From: "Lawrence Karpman" To: "John Seim" Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 20:19:44 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation Thanks John. Do you recommend leaning one or two flats? Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Seim" To: "Lawrence Karpman" Cc: "MG" Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 7:11 PM Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation > That is how I set them. > The size of the air pipe supplying the two carbs is not twice the > area of the 1 1/4 opening, so not as much air flow occurs. > > John Seim > Irvine, CA > > On Apr 14, 2009, at 4:30 PM, Lawrence Karpman wrote: > >> I've read in several places that on the late TD with the oil bath >> air cleaner, that the mixture should be leaned out a flat or two >> after carb tuning to compensate for the reduced air flow of the oil >> bath cleaner which, after it is re-installed, will result in the >> mixture being too rich. >> >> I know some of these air cleaner tops are mashed down from >> overtightening, but mine is not. I'd appreciate the thoughts of the >> group. >> >> TIA >> >> Larry _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Mg-t@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t >> >> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 15 00:55:21 2009 From: Dave and Liz DuBois To: Lawrence Karpman Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 22:56:14 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation I use a color tune to touch up the mixture after putting the air cleaner back on - no guess work that way. Cheers, Dave _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 15 08:41:11 2009 From: Bob Howard To: lkarpman@tx.rr.com Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 09:00:22 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation Larry, That may or may not be true, but it doesn't seem necessary to me. If the air passage in the AC is 3/8" and the diameter of the inner wall of the AC is 7" diameter, then there is roughly 8.25 sq inches of space for the air to flow through. 1.25" carb has, fully open, 3.925 sq inches x two carbs is 7.85 sq inches, so it looks to me that there is more room for air to pass through the AC than through the carbs. There is sure to be some resistance to air flow through the filter medium, but then we are rarely at wide open throttle. But the real test is the usual lifting of the piston test. Look for a hole where the lifting pin would be fitted if it were fitted (it's not fitted in TDs but the hole is usually there), stick in a wire and see what happens. Let us know what you learn. Bob On Tue, 14 Apr 2009 18:30:46 -0500 "Lawrence Karpman" writes: > I've read in several places that on the late TD with the oil bath air > > cleaner, that the mixture should be leaned out a flat or two after > carb > tuning to compensate for the reduced air flow of the oil bath > cleaner which, > after it is re-installed, will result in the mixture being too > rich. > > I know some of these air cleaner tops are mashed down from > overtightening, > but mine is not. I'd appreciate the thoughts of the group. > > TIA > > Larry ____________________________________________________________ Click here to find the right business program for you and take your career to the next level. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTESUUhlHEMiMXWtn5lnRtYpXviwXTjgNkypPrP1ac8sovy36uC2gY/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 15 08:41:22 2009 From: Bob Howard To: battanhr@comcast.net Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 08:45:27 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Howard, Brushes are the usual inexpensive suspects. While you might be able to inspect both with starter on the engine, it's easier all round to remove it to your bench for a lookover. This is an opportunity to wiggle the armature to see if there is wear in the rear bushing. Brushes should move easily in their guides, and their springs should push them firmly against the armature without the springs touching the guides. Bob On Tue, 14 Apr 2009 16:02:07 -0700 "Howard Battan" writes: > Thanks to all who have posted. I think I misled you, though. The > starter is > not spinning, nor is it jamming - the reference to jamming was that > I used > the protrusion on the armature that is designed to unjam the starter > to turn > the armature a bit. I can do this by hand, without a wrench, so it > turns > quite easily. And the starter does not spin, as in if the bendix was > not > working properly. ____________________________________________________________ Click here to find the right business program for you and take your career to the next level. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTESUTOTUVvpaOKUGwqqxeczXG9gZtH3ma6hfDlU3ujgaemtsHedaA/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 15 09:30:32 2009 From: "Howard Battan" To: "Bob Howard" , "Ed Woods" Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 07:31:28 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue Thanks Ed and Bob. I definitely will check the switch before I pull the starter - I just haven't done so yet. If I can't fix this starter, I might look into the hi-torque type. Do you happen to know who supplies one for the TF? Is it the same as for the TD? Howard Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue > Howard, > > You're probably on the right track, but I'd sure check the operation of > the > switch before I gave up on the starter. Just jumper the terminals one time > to see it the starter will turn. Will spark a bit. Be careful. > > Ed > '54 TF > > I.S. I have a couple of armatures, used with comm recut, and a new set of > field coils on hand if your rebuilder needs them. Personally I'd put the > original on the shelf and fit a modern hi torque starter. > ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue > Howard, > Brushes are the usual inexpensive suspects. While you might be able > to inspect both with starter on the engine, it's easier all round to > remove it to your bench for a lookover. This is an opportunity to wiggle > the armature to see if there is wear in the rear bushing. > Brushes should move easily in their guides, and their springs should > push them firmly against the armature without the springs touching the > guides. > Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 15 10:22:40 2009 From: Mark Sherman To: Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 11:23:37 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation Dave: I bought one a few years back but was never able to get it to work. I think the color never would change, and someone here said it had to do with new formulations of gasoline. Does it really work? What am I doing wrong? Mark Sherman > Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 22:56:14 -0700 > From: ddubois@sinclair.net > To: lkarpman@tx.rr.com > CC: mg-t@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation > > I use a color tune to touch up the mixture after putting the air cleaner > back on - no guess work that way. > > Cheers, > Dave > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 15 10:44:46 2009 From: Bob Howard To: mrkshrmn@hotmail.com Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 11:43:45 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation Mark, Mine worked great before the reformulation of gasoline to 90/10. With the current blend, I find that the "bunsen blue" is too lean and that the mix must be set toward the too-rich colour. Doing that seems less precise than lifting the piston to test, so I have stopped using my Colourtune. Gas mixtures vary, however, seasonally and regionally, so it might work well for you. Bob burning the coastal Connecticut blend bought Feb 2009 On Wed, 15 Apr 2009 11:23:37 -0400 Mark Sherman writes: > Dave: > > I bought one a few years back but was never able to get it to work. > > I think the color never would change, and someone here said it had > to do with > new formulations of gasoline. > > Does it really work? What am I doing wrong? > > Mark Sherman ____________________________________________________________ Click for VA loan resources and rate quotes. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTIqrtRgMscL4R4Kbh7W5qGZZ3Hm0r8aNjrjGOdy5wzplmqJk42xwM/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 15 11:05:34 2009 From: John Seim To: Mark Sherman Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 09:06:24 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation If you are using them on 1 1/2" carbs, the colortune works fine. It tells you that you are rich, regardless of what you do. The device is working fine. It is telling you what it sees. Works fine on 1 1/4" carbs, as they are a more correct match to the engine size. John Seim Irvine, CA On Apr 15, 2009, at 8:23 AM, Mark Sherman wrote: > Dave: > > I bought one a few years back but was never able to get it to work. > > I think the color never would change, and someone here said it had > to do with > new formulations of gasoline. > > Does it really work? What am I doing wrong? > > Mark Sherman > >> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 22:56:14 -0700 >> From: ddubois@sinclair.net >> To: lkarpman@tx.rr.com >> CC: mg-t@autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation >> >> I use a color tune to touch up the mixture after putting the air >> cleaner >> back on - no guess work that way. >> >> Cheers, >> Dave _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 15 11:10:47 2009 From: "Dave and Liz DuBois" To: "Mark Sherman" Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 09:11:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation Where most people have had problems with the color tune is in using them in bright daylight. Even 20 years ago, when I first saw it demonstrated, there didn't appear to be much color variation when out in bright light. A dim garage is the best place to use it, even with today's fuel formulation. Cheers, Dave > Dave: > > I bought one a few years back but was never able to get it to work. > > I think the color never would change, and someone here said it had to do > with new formulations of gasoline. > > Does it really work? What am I doing wrong? > > Mark Sherman > >> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 22:56:14 -0700 >> From: ddubois@sinclair.net >> To: lkarpman@tx.rr.com >> CC: mg-t@autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Air Cleaner Compensation >> >> I use a color tune to touch up the mixture after putting the air cleaner >> back on - no guess work that way. >> >> Cheers, >> Dave >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Mg-t@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t >> >> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 15 21:39:05 2009 From: "Douglas Ormrod" To: Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 14:39:31 +1200 Subject: [Mg-t] Gearbox jumping out Hi T people Nice to see y'all are still alive out there. In New Zealand the nights are drawing in, the leaves are falling and I have decided it is time to do something about my 51 TD gearbox over the winter. Since I recommissioned the car after a ground up 2 years ago it has jumped out of third gear when changing down (most times). It stays in going up through the gears if you keep the power on - but lift your foot in third and it pops out. I did rebuild the box with all new bearings, seals, rollers, a new first gear etc. - but obviously missed doing something I should have done. What is the most likely cause? There is a guy in NZ who makes up the modern five speed conversions and I am half thinking about that, but would probably fix the old box anyway in case someone wants to return it to original. Cheers Douglas _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 15 23:29:25 2009 From: Duvall Video Productions To: Douglas Ormrod Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 23:29:59 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Gearbox jumping out Doug, I have a rebuilt 1950 gearbox that had similar trouble with third gear. I researched and got feedback and finally decided to check the selector balls that lock out the shift selector rods. I discovered it shifted well with the cover off. Upon closer examination, I discovered the 3rd/4th gear selector shaft was too long and hit the rear of the housing preventing it from staying in third gear. I found this out by putting paint on the end of the shaft and carefully put the shifter housing back on, put it in third gear a few times and then pulled the cover again. sure enough it left paint on the housing. I bought the car taken apart and I had an an extra selector shaft. I measured and sure enough, there was a difference in length. I ground 1/2" off the end of the selector shaft and it shifted fine. Might be worth looking at..... Mike On Apr 15, 2009, at 9:39 PM, Douglas Ormrod wrote: > > Since I recommissioned the car after a ground up 2 years ago it has > jumped out of third gear when changing down (most times). It stays in > going up through the gears if you keep the power on - but lift your > foot > in third and it pops out. I did rebuild the box with all new bearings, > seals, rollers, a new first gear etc. - but obviously missed doing > something I should have done. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 17 18:34:17 2009 From: "Howard Battan" To: "MG" Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 16:35:10 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MGTF starter issue I'd like to thank you all for your help with my TF starter issue. When I got the starter apart, the brushes were still plenty large, but the commutator and brush faces were badly pitted and worn. The commutator would have need a complete turndown and cleanup. Luckily, my local small-town Car Quest could get me a rebuilt Lucas starter of the correct type the next day. Total cost - less than $60. It starts like a dream now. Thanks again Howard B _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 17 23:03:44 2009 From: gunnellj@athenet.net To: Mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 00:04:23 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights Hello Again I am dealing with a number of issues involving brake lights and directional signals on my MG TF. Let's start several years back. The directionals were not canceling when I got the car. A shop put in a brand new repro switch from the leading supplier. It didn't work. The shop sent it back and put the old switch in. Then I found a man in Dayton, Ohio selling parts on eBay. He said he could fix the switches. One hour labor @ $75. I sent him the first switch and he fixed it. Worked fine. I bought a second non-functional switch on eBay and sent it to the man in Dayton and had it rebuilt for my MG TD which has no blinkers. I never installed it. Last year the first rebuilt switch started working only on one side. We took it out and installed the second switch rebuilt by the man in Dayton. It did not work. We took the first switch apart and discovered why it worked only on one side. It had a U-shaped copper contact inside and half of the "U" was broken off. We figured we could take the other switch apart and pirate its U-shaped copper contact. No dice. It was of a different design inside and did not have a U-shaped copper contact. This year I found a man in Atlanta area who said he could rebuild the switches better and cheaper. I sent him the second switch. He returned it and said it was cleaned. adjusted and tested. When I put it in the car it did not work properly. The vacuum did not come off on either side. On the left, it just kept blinking away and seemed impossible to shut off unless you moved the plastic handle just right. After a 25-mile ride, I had no blinkers AND NO BRAKE LIGHTS. I have now replaced the brake light switch. The first one tested bad, but the new one did not solve the problem. Still no brake lights and no blinkers. All other lights work. There is juice at the flasher mounted under the hood. I have not re-tested the new switch under the car. We have no signal light switch in the car right now. There are several things I'd like to know: 1- Is it possible to get oner of the U-shaped copper contacts so I could fix that switch? 2- Any ideas on where my problems lie. 3- Any information that would help me track down signal light how-to articles that were published in Sacred Octagon. Or a wiring diagram for a car with signal lights. 4- At this point I'm pretty frustrated with the original Lucas vacuum switches and would just as soon rig up a neat looking aftermarket setup that works better with toggle switches, a motorcycle switch, a golf cartt switch, etc. Has anyone done this or know where I can get information on doing it in a T Series? John Gunnell Iola, WI _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 17 23:49:58 2009 From: "Lawrence Karpman" To: , Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 23:50:52 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights John: The vacuum canceling on the turn signal unit has nothing to do with the electrics. That's a mechanical function. I had similar problems a while back, and as your brake lights are affected also, I'd test the large Lucas relay (8 connectors) mounted behind your battery box on the inside firewall. It could be sticking or mis-adjusted affecting both your brake lights, which come off connector #5, and your flashers. Mine tested bad, so I replaced it. Many have had success just adjusting the contacts though. A comprehensive guide to testing the unit can be found here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et105.htm Cheers Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 11:04 PM Subject: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights > Hello Again > > I am dealing with a number of issues involving brake lights and > directional signals on my MG TF. > > Let's start several years back. The directionals were not canceling when > I got the car. A shop put in a brand new repro switch from the leading > supplier. It didn't work. The shop sent it back and put the old switch in. > > Then I found a man in Dayton, Ohio selling parts on eBay. He said he > could fix the switches. One hour labor @ $75. I sent him the first switch > and he fixed it. Worked fine. I bought a second non-functional switch on > eBay and sent it to the man in Dayton and had it rebuilt for my MG TD > which has no blinkers. I never installed it. > > Last year the first rebuilt switch started working only on one side. We > took it out and installed the second switch rebuilt by the man in Dayton. > It did not work. We took the first switch apart and discovered why it > worked only on one side. It had a U-shaped copper contact inside and half > of the "U" was broken off. We figured we could take the other switch apart > and pirate its U-shaped copper contact. No dice. It was of a different > design inside and did not have a U-shaped copper contact. > > This year I found a man in Atlanta area who said he could rebuild the > switches better and cheaper. I sent him the second switch. He returned it > and said it was cleaned. adjusted and tested. When I put it in the car it > did not work properly. The vacuum did not come off on either side. On the > left, it just kept blinking away and seemed impossible to shut off unless > you moved the plastic handle just right. After a 25-mile ride, I had no > blinkers AND NO BRAKE LIGHTS. > > I have now replaced the brake light switch. The first one tested bad, > but the new one did not solve the problem. Still no brake lights and no > blinkers. All other lights work. There is juice at the flasher mounted > under the hood. I have not re-tested the new switch under the car. We have > no signal light switch in the car right now. > > There are several things I'd like to know: > > 1- Is it possible to get oner of the U-shaped copper contacts so I could > fix that switch? > > 2- Any ideas on where my problems lie. > > 3- Any information that would help me track down signal light how-to > articles that were published in Sacred Octagon. Or a wiring diagram for a > car with signal lights. > > 4- At this point I'm pretty frustrated with the original Lucas vacuum > switches and would just as soon rig up a neat looking aftermarket setup > that works better with toggle switches, a motorcycle switch, a golf cartt > switch, etc. Has anyone done this or know where I can get information on > doing it in a T Series? > > John Gunnell > Iola, WI > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 18 00:03:33 2009 From: "Lawrence Karpman" To: , Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 00:04:26 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights Oops. I gave you the location of the Lucas relay on the late TD. I believe on the TF it's mounted on the left side of your engine bay. Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 11:04 PM Subject: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights > Hello Again > > I am dealing with a number of issues involving brake lights and > directional signals on my MG TF. > > Let's start several years back. The directionals were not canceling when > I got the car. A shop put in a brand new repro switch from the leading > supplier. It didn't work. The shop sent it back and put the old switch in. > > Then I found a man in Dayton, Ohio selling parts on eBay. He said he > could fix the switches. One hour labor @ $75. I sent him the first switch > and he fixed it. Worked fine. I bought a second non-functional switch on > eBay and sent it to the man in Dayton and had it rebuilt for my MG TD > which has no blinkers. I never installed it. > > Last year the first rebuilt switch started working only on one side. We > took it out and installed the second switch rebuilt by the man in Dayton. > It did not work. We took the first switch apart and discovered why it > worked only on one side. It had a U-shaped copper contact inside and half > of the "U" was broken off. We figured we could take the other switch apart > and pirate its U-shaped copper contact. No dice. It was of a different > design inside and did not have a U-shaped copper contact. > > This year I found a man in Atlanta area who said he could rebuild the > switches better and cheaper. I sent him the second switch. He returned it > and said it was cleaned. adjusted and tested. When I put it in the car it > did not work properly. The vacuum did not come off on either side. On the > left, it just kept blinking away and seemed impossible to shut off unless > you moved the plastic handle just right. After a 25-mile ride, I had no > blinkers AND NO BRAKE LIGHTS. > > I have now replaced the brake light switch. The first one tested bad, > but the new one did not solve the problem. Still no brake lights and no > blinkers. All other lights work. There is juice at the flasher mounted > under the hood. I have not re-tested the new switch under the car. We have > no signal light switch in the car right now. > > There are several things I'd like to know: > > 1- Is it possible to get oner of the U-shaped copper contacts so I could > fix that switch? > > 2- Any ideas on where my problems lie. > > 3- Any information that would help me track down signal light how-to > articles that were published in Sacred Octagon. Or a wiring diagram for a > car with signal lights. > > 4- At this point I'm pretty frustrated with the original Lucas vacuum > switches and would just as soon rig up a neat looking aftermarket setup > that works better with toggle switches, a motorcycle switch, a golf cartt > switch, etc. Has anyone done this or know where I can get information on > doing it in a T Series? > > John Gunnell > Iola, WI > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 18 00:56:48 2009 From: Dave and Liz DuBois To: gunnellj@athenet.net Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 22:57:32 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights John, Larry is correct, the standard Lucas turn signal switch self cancel function is strictly mechanical and has nothing whatsoever to do with the turn signals working. You can use a plain old single pole, double throw toggle switch from Radio shack for the switch - you just have to remember to cancel the signals yourself by flipping the switch back to the center. Like Larry, I suspect that the problem you are experiencing is probably centered in your turn signal relay as much as in the switch. Taking your two problems (brake lights and turn signals) and deal with them individually. First the brake lights. Jack the car up, turn the ignition on, crawl under the car and short between the two terminals on the brake light switch and see if the brake lights come on. If they do, the replacement switch is bad (not surprising, the replacement switches are junk - more on that later). If the brake lights don't come on it is time to look at the turn signal relay (which we were going to do anyway). Again, with the ignition turned on (disconnect the primary wires from the coil while you are doing this so you don't fry the coil and/or the points), jumper terminal 5 to terminal 7 on the relay while having someone step on the brake pedal. If the brake light on both sides come on, then one of the normally closed contacts in the relay is the problem. Now jumper terminal 5 to terminal 3 on the relay while your helper steps on the brakes and see if the other side comes on. If it does then both normally closed contacts in the relay need work. If you still don't get any brake lights with these two tests, then you have wiring problems going from the fuse block to the brake light switch. (note: regardless of the outcome of all of these tests, you are going to need to make up, or purchase a brake light relay/arc suppression circuit and install it or the replacement switch will fail withing a very short time. See the article, Brake light Relay in the Other Tech Articles section of my web site at: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ ). The next thing to do is to wire the new toggle switch that you got at Radio Shack (or where ever) with the green wire going to the center terminal, the green/yellow wire going to one of the outside terminals and the green/blue wire to the other outside terminal. With the ignition on, see if the turn signals work with this switch. If they do, install the switch until you can get an original switch that works. If they don't, then the relay needs to have the contacts cleaned and adjusted so that they will work correctly. If you are still having problems with th e tests, the results or you can't get the relay to work properly, e-mail me directly at SUfuelpumps@donobi.net and I'll see if I can walk you through the problem. Cheers, Dave _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 18 09:05:08 2009 From: "oliver" To: Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 08:54:26 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] new lister hi, all. i have a 73 b, and two days ago i took the plunge into T-ness. www.ranteer.com/davescars/mgtd my goal is to preserve it and drive it. I'm not planning on restoring it. I've already learned a whole lot about these cars, but am still such a rookie! please be patient as I ask really basic questions! thanks. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 18 21:20:25 2009 From: Charlie Baldwin To: T series list Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 22:18:22 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights John, I have a Signal Stat after market turn signal switch in my TD which has worked flawlessly for the last 39 years and many, many miles. It also has a four way flasher, but does not self cancel. Many times on left turns I cancel it with my knee. I put one of these in a friend's car a couple of years ago when I rewired it for him and it also works well. I bought the second one on eBay. At the same time I bought another one on eBay, but it didn't have as many wires. I think the model number is 900, but may be 901. I'll check and see if I have that somewhere. Back in 1970 when I bought the first one, they were common at auto parts stores, because many older cars did not come with turn signals. Today, you need to search on the internet, both for the units and instructions. In my opinion it is a cheap (probably less than $50) and very workable solution. On a related subject I installed parking lights (Lucas 1130?) for high mounted brake and turn signal lights on my TD. Inside of them I used MR11 halogen spot lights which are quite bright. If I do say so myself, it is the best installation for this use that I've seen. They look like they belong and do the job. They also provide a TD with rear reflectors which makes it be seen when parked. I've attached some pictures, which will go to your email, but get stripped by the list. Anyone else that would like to see it, I can send direct to your email address. I should really write up the procedure to share. This could get into more money, but was easy for me since I had a couple of lights in my parts box. Charlie gunnellj@athenet.net wrote: > Hello Again > > I am dealing with a number of issues involving brake lights and directional signals on my MG TF. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 18 21:20:41 2009 From: Charlie Baldwin To: oliver , T series list Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 22:19:57 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] new lister and TD for sale Welcome to the T series list and TD ownership. I like your attitude about driving the car and not making a museum piece out of it. I have a late '53 TD for sale that has not been molested. It still has its original paint and interior panels. It is a project, however, because the engine and transmission are not installed. It was last on the road in 1966. I'm looking for a buyer who wants to maintain its originality, doing only what is necessary to get it back on the road and not necessarily removing every little blemish. Anyone interested, please email me back. It is located in Carlisle, PA and will be in attendance in the flea market for Import Carlisle. Price in the $7,000s. Charlie oliver wrote: > hi, all. > > i have a 73 b, and two days ago i took the plunge into T-ness. > > www.ranteer.com/davescars/mgtd > > my goal is to preserve it and drive it. I'm not planning on restoring > it. > > I've already learned a whole lot about these cars, but am still such a > rookie! > > please be patient as I ask really basic questions! > > thanks. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 19 07:39:53 2009 From: Bud Krueger To: Charlie Baldwin Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 08:44:26 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 19 10:02:36 2009 From: Bud Krueger To: Charlie Baldwin Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 11:07:39 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights Let me try this again: Charlie, If you'd like, I can post your lighting system on my Ttalk site (http://www.ttalk.info/). Here's one that I put together a few years ago http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/HighMountLights.html. And http://www.ttalk.info/led_high_mounts.htm with LEDs. Just send me some images with some text and I'll be happy to post them. Bud Charlie Baldwin wrote: > John, > I have a Signal Stat after market turn signal switch in my TD which has > worked flawlessly for the last 39 years and many, many miles. It also > has a four way flasher, but does not self cancel. Many times on left > turns I cancel it with my knee. I put one of these in a friend's car a > couple of years ago when I rewired it for him and it also works well. I > bought the second one on eBay. At the same time I bought another one on > eBay, but it didn't have as many wires. I think the model number is > 900, but may be 901. I'll check and see if I have that somewhere. Back > in 1970 when I bought the first one, they were common at auto parts > stores, because many older cars did not come with turn signals. Today, > you need to search on the internet, both for the units and > instructions. In my opinion it is a cheap (probably less than $50) and > very workable solution. > > On a related subject I installed parking lights (Lucas 1130?) for high > mounted brake and turn signal lights on my TD. Inside of them I used > MR11 halogen spot lights which are quite bright. If I do say so myself, > it is the best installation for this use that I've seen. They look like > they belong and do the job. They also provide a TD with rear reflectors > which makes it be seen when parked. I've attached some pictures, which > will go to your email, but get stripped by the list. Anyone else that > would like to see it, I can send direct to your email address. I should > really write up the procedure to share. This could get into more money, > but was easy for me since I had a couple of lights in my parts box. > > Charlie > > gunnellj@athenet.net wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 19 19:09:53 2009 From: Duvall Video Productions To: T series list Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 19:10:32 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights The trouble with these two systems is they put a relay on the brakes but not the signal lamps. Adding a relay to the signal side of the relay box takes the load off the old relay box which increases brightness and reliability without removing it and gets it off the ignition switch. It also allowed me to add additional rear lights and put them all on the same relay without running a bunch of extra wires under the car. Right next to those two relays, I put a headlamp relay. I put a relay on pins 3 and 7 on the control box pulling the power from the brown blue wire (A connector-brown with blue wire) on the ignition switch. Also pulling power from the A connector, I used a relay on the headlamps (blue "H") on the switch. This removes the amperage load off the ignition/headlamp switch leaving only the red tail and side lamp on the switch. It is simple to do with a few short wires. I soldered a solid core 12 gauge supply wire across the three relays which the got its power from the ignition A connector and provided support to keep them together. I then used double sided tape to hold it in place up above the ignition switch and screwed it in place. I then just moved wires white/purple and white/brown from the Lucas relay unit to the new relays and used the terminals 3 and 7 respectively, to trigger the relays. I then pulled blue wire on the A terminal on the ignition switch that feeds the high/low switch and put it on a relay using the A terminal to trigger the relay. Mike On Apr 19, 2009, at 10:07 AM, Bud Krueger wrote: > Let me try this again: > Charlie, > > If you'd like, I can post your lighting system on my Ttalk site (http://www.ttalk.info/ > ). Here's one that I put together a few years ago http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/HighMountLights.html > . And http://www.ttalk.info/led_high_mounts.htm with LEDs. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 19 22:54:43 2009 From: "Douglas Ormrod" To: , Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 15:55:19 +1200 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights I have resurrected a few of these mechanical switches - all you need is a little patience and some olive oil - see this web site for instructions: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/ts101.htm The turn signal relay is the same as the one used on the early Morris Minor - they were built in much larger numbers than the Ts and using the Minor as a search term or contacting Morris Minor parts people will usually turn one up. Cheers Douglas -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gunnellj@athenet.net Sent: Saturday, 18 April 2009 4:04 PM To: Mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights Hello Again I am dealing with a number of issues involving brake lights and directional signals on my MG TF. Let's start several years back. The directionals were not canceling when I got the car. A shop put in a brand new repro switch from the leading supplier. It didn't work. The shop sent it back and put the old switch in. Then I found a man in Dayton, Ohio selling parts on eBay. He said he could fix the switches. One hour labor @ $75. I sent him the first switch and he fixed it. Worked fine. I bought a second non-functional switch on eBay and sent it to the man in Dayton and had it rebuilt for my MG TD which has no blinkers. I never installed it. Last year the first rebuilt switch started working only on one side. We took it out and installed the second switch rebuilt by the man in Dayton. It did not work. We took the first switch apart and discovered why it worked only on one side. It had a U-shaped copper contact inside and half of the "U" was broken off. We figured we could take the other switch apart and pirate its U-shaped copper contact. No dice. It was of a different design inside and did not have a U-shaped copper contact. This year I found a man in Atlanta area who said he could rebuild the switches better and cheaper. I sent him the second switch. He returned it and said it was cleaned. adjusted and tested. When I put it in the car it did not work properly. The vacuum did not come off on either side. On the left, it just kept blinking away and seemed impossible to shut off unless you moved the plastic handle just right. After a 25-mile ride, I had no blinkers AND NO BRAKE LIGHTS. I have now replaced the brake light switch. The first one tested bad, but the new one did not solve the problem. Still no brake lights and no blinkers. All other lights work. There is juice at the flasher mounted under the hood. I have not re-tested the new switch under the car. We have no signal light switch in the car right now. There are several things I'd like to know: 1- Is it possible to get oner of the U-shaped copper contacts so I could fix that switch? 2- Any ideas on where my problems lie. 3- Any information that would help me track down signal light how-to articles that were published in Sacred Octagon. Or a wiring diagram for a car with signal lights. 4- At this point I'm pretty frustrated with the original Lucas vacuum switches and would just as soon rig up a neat looking aftermarket setup that works better with toggle switches, a motorcycle switch, a golf cartt switch, etc. Has anyone done this or know where I can get information on doing it in a T Series? John Gunnell Iola, WI Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 20 06:47:49 2009 From: "oliver" To: Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 06:37:01 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] positive ground just picked up a 52 td last week. sat in a garage 30 years. the dpo put a battery in it, and this weekend we got it running. am a little concerned, tho, because the battery is in standard position, and the car should be positive ground. is there a way to tell if it was ever converted to negative ground? would it start and run if the battery was in backwards? what should i do at this point? i wouldn't mind having it positive ground. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 20 11:15:25 2009 From: Dave and Liz DuBois To: oliver Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 09:16:08 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] positive ground Oliver, To check if car was positive or negative ground, check the primary connections to the coil. If the car is still wired as positive ground, the coil terminal marked CB (or +) should be going to the distributor and the terminal marked SW (or -) should go to the ignition switch. Since the car was started with the battery hooked up a negative ground (negative terminal going to the chassis of the car), the generator may well have switched polarity. You can either make the other necessary changes to make the car negative ground (switch the primary connections to the coil, switch the wires on the ammeter and flash the generator for negative ground), or you can swap the connections to the battery and flash the generator for positive ground. There is no compelling reason to have the ground positive or negative, it is just up to the owner which way they want it to be. The only reason to keep the car positive ground is for originality. There are two reasons to change the car to negative ground - 1) it makes the car compatible with all modern day electronic devices if you ever want to install such things and 2) all services places are familiar with negative ground vehicles and are less apt to make a mistake when installing things like new batteries. Cheers, Dave _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 20 20:31:50 2009 From: Bud Krueger To: Charlie Baldwin Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 21:36:33 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights Charlie's system can be seen at http://www.ttalk.info/BaldwinLamps.htm Bud Krueger Bud Krueger wrote: > Let me try this again: > Charlie, > > If you'd like, I can post your lighting system on my Ttalk site > (http://www.ttalk.info/). Here's one that I put together a few years > ago http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/HighMountLights.html. And > http://www.ttalk.info/led_high_mounts.htm with LEDs. > > Just send me some images with some text and I'll be happy to post them. > > Bud > > Charlie Baldwin wrote: >> John, >> I have a Signal Stat after market turn signal switch in my TD which >> has worked flawlessly for the last 39 years and many, many miles. It >> also has a four way flasher, but does not self cancel. Many times on >> left turns I cancel it with my knee. I put one of these in a >> friend's car a couple of years ago when I rewired it for him and it >> also works well. I bought the second one on eBay. At the same time >> I bought another one on eBay, but it didn't have as many wires. I >> think the model number is 900, but may be 901. I'll check and see if >> I have that somewhere. Back in 1970 when I bought the first one, >> they were common at auto parts stores, because many older cars did >> not come with turn signals. Today, you need to search on the >> internet, both for the units and instructions. In my opinion it is a >> cheap (probably less than $50) and very workable solution. >> >> On a related subject I installed parking lights (Lucas 1130?) for >> high mounted brake and turn signal lights on my TD. Inside of them I >> used MR11 halogen spot lights which are quite bright. If I do say so >> myself, it is the best installation for this use that I've seen. >> They look like they belong and do the job. They also provide a TD >> with rear reflectors which makes it be seen when parked. I've >> attached some pictures, which will go to your email, but get stripped >> by the list. Anyone else that would like to see it, I can send >> direct to your email address. I should really write up the procedure >> to share. This could get into more money, but was easy for me since >> I had a couple of lights in my parts box. >> >> Charlie >> >> gunnellj@athenet.net wrote: > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 20 21:07:08 2009 From: Charlie Baldwin To: Bud Krueger , T series list Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 22:07:53 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights Thanks Bud. Hopefully someone will be helped by this. Charlie Bud Krueger wrote: > Charlie's system can be seen at http://www.ttalk.info/BaldwinLamps.htm > > Bud Krueger > > Bud Krueger wrote: >> Let me try this again: >> Charlie, >> >> If you'd like, I can post your lighting system on my Ttalk site >> (http://www.ttalk.info/). Here's one that I put together a few years >> ago http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/HighMountLights.html. And >> http://www.ttalk.info/led_high_mounts.htm with LEDs. >> >> Just send me some images with some text and I'll be happy to post them. >> >> Bud >> >> Charlie Baldwin wrote: >>> John, >>> I have a Signal Stat after market turn signal switch in my TD which >>> has worked flawlessly for the last 39 years and many, many miles. >>> It also has a four way flasher, but does not self cancel. Many >>> times on left turns I cancel it with my knee. I put one of these in >>> a friend's car a couple of years ago when I rewired it for him and >>> it also works well. I bought the second one on eBay. At the same >>> time I bought another one on eBay, but it didn't have as many >>> wires. I think the model number is 900, but may be 901. I'll check >>> and see if I have that somewhere. Back in 1970 when I bought the >>> first one, they were common at auto parts stores, because many older >>> cars did not come with turn signals. Today, you need to search on >>> the internet, both for the units and instructions. In my opinion it >>> is a cheap (probably less than $50) and very workable solution. >>> >>> On a related subject I installed parking lights (Lucas 1130?) for >>> high mounted brake and turn signal lights on my TD. Inside of them >>> I used MR11 halogen spot lights which are quite bright. If I do say >>> so myself, it is the best installation for this use that I've seen. >>> They look like they belong and do the job. They also provide a TD >>> with rear reflectors which makes it be seen when parked. I've >>> attached some pictures, which will go to your email, but get >>> stripped by the list. Anyone else that would like to see it, I can >>> send direct to your email address. I should really write up the >>> procedure to share. This could get into more money, but was easy >>> for me since I had a couple of lights in my parts box. >>> >>> Charlie >>> >>> gunnellj@athenet.net wrote: >> _______________________________________________ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 21 12:56:44 2009 From: "John Quilter" To: Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 10:57:50 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] Buy your T Series MG for $650??? California and San Francisco Bay Area T series owners should get a laugh out of the letter, paraphrased below that I recently got from the Bay Area Air Quality Management District: "Dear Vehicle Owner: Since the registration on your model year 1951 vehicle is expiring soon, please consider an alternative to driving this vehicle. You can receive $650 for your 1987 or older car, van or pickup truck from the Bay Area Air Quality Management District and help reduce air pollution. The District's Buy Back Program buys and then scraps 1987 and older vehicles. These older vehicles have less efficient emission control equipment and therefore produce much more air pollution than newer vehicles. This program is completely voluntary. If your car is a classic car or otherwise valuable to you, please disregard this letter." Needless to say I will be disregarding the letter. No wait, I think I'll write the BAQMD and ask why they are wasting my taxpayer funds to mail these letters out to owners of cars as old as mine. Any car of this age still registered and in operation is already a classic and more valuable to the owner than the $650 offered. Still I wonder if the "program is completely voluntary" provision will someday be rescinded? Time to write your legislators and express your opinions now? John F. Quilter Brisbane, California 1951 MGTD, 1960 Morris Minor 1969 Austin America two bicycles for most local errands _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 21 16:29:16 2009 From: gunnellj@athenet.net To: Mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 17:29:54 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD Push Rods Moss catalog notations can drive you wild when you're rebuilding an XPAG. If you call the tech line, you sometimes get shunted to the order dept. if the tech guys are busy. Anyway, I think I know the answer here, but want to verify before we put the engine together. The shop resurfaced the head and who knows what was done to it before? My mechanic Vince says it actually has a slight taper to it, but is within normal specs on that and 3" thick on average overall. Moss catalog says the factory head is 3.022. So is mine "excessively milled" or not? Couldn't get an answer on the phone. The main thing is am I going to be OK with the "long" push rods -- which by the way are the only ones now available. More on this below. The rocker arm assembly is on its way to Rocker Arm Specialists so I do not know which adjusting screws I have until it's returned. I guess I could use two head gaskets if need be. Undortunately, we already torqued up with one. Oh, by the way. According to Moss, Crane is out of business and their inventory is up for grabs. I had just talked to a Crane rep at a show in January. Wonder how many T-Series cams they have left? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 08:39:46 2009 From: gunnellj@athenet.net To: Mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 09:40:05 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head ----- Forwarded message from ----- Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 09:38:33 -0400 From: gunnellj@athenet.net Reply-To: gunnellj@athenet.net Subject: Shaved Head To: Mg-t@autox.team.n Hey Mates I am trying to figure out which push rods I need for my MG TD engine build. Or rather, in the "real world" situation, if I can safely still use the "long" push rods Moss sells. I say this because they no longer have the short push rods. The Moss catalog states the factory head depth is 3.022. The shop resurfaced mine. My mechanic says it measures out with a very slight taper, but within spec, and averages 3.00 inches. So is my head "excessively" thinner to the point where the "long" push rods won't work? Moss says that they now have only the long push rods. The rep told me that Crane is out of business and no longer making push rods. I checked Crane's Website. Sure enough. Today (April 22) they are auctioning off all their inventory, equipment and intellectual property rights. Since they make the T-series camshaft that Moss sells, I don't know the implications of this to the T-Series community. As far as my situation at present, I have the head torqued down and the rocker arm assembly has been sent to Rocker Arm Specialists. So I hope I do not have to go with two head gaskets and I cannot tell you is my rocker arm assembly has the long or short adjusting screws. John Gunnell ----- End forwarded message ----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 09:00:56 2009 From: Bob Howard To: gunnellj@athenet.net Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 09:59:14 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head John, Be of good cheer. When you get the rocker assy back in place you can figure out the necessary length of pushrod. Once you know that, it's easy to shorten a pushrod. Pushrods are really push-tubes with fitted ends. One end can be pulled off and you use a "parting tool" in a lathe to shorten the tube. When I rebuilt my XPAG a decade back, Moss was out of the short pushrods, sent the long ones, and a friend shortened them for me in a half hour. Bob On Wed, 22 Apr 2009 09:40:05 -0400 gunnellj@athenet.net writes: > ----- Forwarded message from ----- > Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 09:38:33 -0400 > From: gunnellj@athenet.net > Reply-To: gunnellj@athenet.net > Subject: Shaved Head > To: Mg-t@autox.team.n > > > Hey Mates > > I am trying to figure out which push rods I need for my MG TD engine > build. Or rather, in the "real world" situation, if I can safely > still use the "long" push rods Moss sells. I say this because they > no longer have the short push rods. > > The Moss catalog states the factory head depth is 3.022. The shop > resurfaced mine. My mechanic says it measures out with a very slight > taper, but within spec, and averages 3.00 inches. So is my head > "excessively" thinner to the point where the "long" push rods won't > work? > > Moss says that they now have only the long push rods. The rep told > me that Crane is out of business and no longer making push rods. I > checked Crane's Website. Sure enough. Today (April 22) they are > auctioning off all their inventory, equipment and intellectual > property rights. Since they make the T-series camshaft that Moss > sells, I don't know the implications of this to the T-Series > community. > > As far as my situation at present, I have the head torqued down and > the rocker arm assembly has been sent to Rocker Arm Specialists. So > I hope I do not have to go with two head gaskets and I cannot tell > you is my rocker arm assembly has the long or short adjusting > screws. > > > John Gunnell > > > > ----- End forwarded message ----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > > ____________________________________________________________ Online Trading - Get the latest information on trading online. Click Now http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFOsXKkTFFI80A1i8Ysav31IRIIi8T5crv6WG9UKzOX45kgcQWp8E/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 09:10:35 2009 From: Mike Eldred To: , Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 10:11:01 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Buy your T Series MG for $650??? John, I'm forwarding your email to Dan Strohl at Hemmings Motor News. He has been posting a series on scrappage schemes at Hemmings Auto Blogs this month. Here's the latest installment: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2009/04/21/states-wrongs-cash-for-clunkers -proceeds-on-the-state-level/ Cheers, -Mike Eldred Wilmington, VT '54 TF > From: jquilter@peoplepc.com > To: mg-t@autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 10:57:50 -0700 > Subject: [Mg-t] Buy your T Series MG for $650??? > > California and San Francisco Bay Area T series owners should get a laugh out > of the letter, paraphrased below that I recently got from the Bay Area Air > Quality Management District: > > "Dear Vehicle Owner: > > Since the registration on your model year 1951 vehicle is expiring soon, > please consider an alternative to driving this vehicle. You can receive > $650 for your 1987 or older car, van or pickup truck from the Bay Area Air > Quality Management District and help reduce air pollution. > > The District's Buy Back Program buys and then scraps 1987 and older vehicles. > These older vehicles have less efficient emission control equipment and > therefore produce much more air pollution than newer vehicles. This program > is completely voluntary. If your car is a classic car or otherwise valuable > to you, please disregard this letter." > > > Needless to say I will be disregarding the letter. No wait, I think I'll > write the BAQMD and ask why they are wasting my taxpayer funds to mail these > letters out to owners of cars as old as mine. Any car of this age still > registered and in operation is already a classic and more valuable to the > owner than the $650 offered. Still I wonder if the "program is completely > voluntary" provision will someday be rescinded? > > Time to write your legislators and express your opinions now? > > John F. Quilter > Brisbane, California > 1951 MGTD, > 1960 Morris Minor > 1969 Austin America > two bicycles for most local errands _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail.: Get quick friend updates right in your inbox. http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Upda tes2_042009 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 09:11:35 2009 From: "Bob Grunau" To: "Bob Howard" , Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 10:17:32 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head John, You should have no problem using the original or Moss 'long" pushrods. But why buy new pushrods? Check eack end of the pushrods to see if they are loose, if loose, clean, compress and tig weld the end to the tube. Adjusting screws will almost certainly take up the small amount shaved off the head. Short or long adjusting screws will work as you are in fact shortening the screw/pushrod combination by 0.022" to accomodate the head shaving. Bugger all. I would not use two head gaskets unless trying to reduce compression ratio ( which you are not ). Bob Grunau John, Be of good cheer. When you get the rocker assy back in place you can figure out the necessary length of pushrod. Once you know that, it's easy to shorten a pushrod. Pushrods are really push-tubes with fitted ends. One end can be pulled off and you use a "parting tool" in a lathe to shorten the tube. When I rebuilt my XPAG a decade back, Moss was out of the short pushrods, sent the long ones, and a friend shortened them for me in a half hour. Bob > > > Hey Mates > > I am trying to figure out which push rods I need for my MG TD engine > build. Or rather, in the "real world" situation, if I can safely > still use the "long" push rods Moss sells. I say this because they > no longer have the short push rods. > > The Moss catalog states the factory head depth is 3.022. The shop > resurfaced mine. My mechanic says it measures out with a very slight > taper, but within spec, and averages 3.00 inches. So is my head > "excessively" thinner to the point where the "long" push rods won't > work? > > Moss says that they now have only the long push rods. The rep told > me that Crane is out of business and no longer making push rods. I > checked Crane's Website. Sure enough. Today (April 22) they are > auctioning off all their inventory, equipment and intellectual > property rights. Since they make the T-series camshaft that Moss > sells, I don't know the implications of this to the T-Series > community. > > As far as my situation at present, I have the head torqued down and > the rocker arm assembly has been sent to Rocker Arm Specialists. So > I hope I do not have to go with two head gaskets and I cannot tell > you is my rocker arm assembly has the long or short adjusting > screws. > > > John Gunnell > > > > ----- End forwarded message ----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > > ____________________________________________________________ Online Trading - Get the latest information on trading online. Click Now http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFOsXKkTFFI80A1i8Ysav31IRI Ii8T5crv6WG9UKzOX45kgcQWp8E/ Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 14:46:05 2009 From: "Dallas Congleton" To: , Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 15:15:28 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head John what was actually done back in the day was to install spacers under the rocker arm stands to bring them back up to height for the push rods. The spacers would be the thickness of the amount removed from the head. This restores the geometry of the rocker arm,. Dallas ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Grunau" To: "Bob Howard" ; Cc: Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 10:17 AM Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head > John, > You should have no problem using the original or Moss 'long" pushrods. But > why buy new pushrods? Check eack end of the pushrods to see if they are > loose, if loose, clean, compress and tig weld the end to the tube. > Adjusting screws will almost certainly take up the small amount shaved off > the head. Short or long adjusting screws will work as you are in fact > shortening the screw/pushrod combination by 0.022" to accomodate the head > shaving. Bugger all. > I would not use two head gaskets unless trying to reduce compression ratio > ( which you are not ). > Bob Grunau > > John, > Be of good cheer. When you get the rocker assy back in place you can > figure out the necessary length of pushrod. Once you know that, it's easy > to shorten a pushrod. Pushrods are really push-tubes with fitted ends. > One end can be pulled off and you use a "parting tool" in a lathe to > shorten the tube. When I rebuilt my XPAG a decade back, Moss was out of > the short pushrods, sent the long ones, and a friend shortened them for > me in a half hour. > Bob >> >> >> Hey Mates >> >> I am trying to figure out which push rods I need for my MG TD engine >> build. Or rather, in the "real world" situation, if I can safely >> still use the "long" push rods Moss sells. I say this because they >> no longer have the short push rods. >> >> The Moss catalog states the factory head depth is 3.022. The shop >> resurfaced mine. My mechanic says it measures out with a very slight >> taper, but within spec, and averages 3.00 inches. So is my head >> "excessively" thinner to the point where the "long" push rods won't >> work? >> >> Moss says that they now have only the long push rods. The rep told >> me that Crane is out of business and no longer making push rods. I >> checked Crane's Website. Sure enough. Today (April 22) they are >> auctioning off all their inventory, equipment and intellectual >> property rights. Since they make the T-series camshaft that Moss >> sells, I don't know the implications of this to the T-Series >> community. >> >> As far as my situation at present, I have the head torqued down and >> the rocker arm assembly has been sent to Rocker Arm Specialists. So >> I hope I do not have to go with two head gaskets and I cannot tell >> you is my rocker arm assembly has the long or short adjusting >> screws. >> >> >> John Gunnell _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 15:09:28 2009 From: "Bob Grunau" To: "Dallas Congleton" , Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 15:57:34 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head Sorry Dallas, spacers just SCREW UP the geometry of the rockers to valve tips. Pushrod or adjusters only have to be shortened to compensate for head milling. Bob Grunau -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dallas Congleton Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 3:15 PM To: mg-t@autox.team.net; gunnellj@athenet.net Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head John what was actually done back in the day was to install spacers under the rocker arm stands to bring them back up to height for the push rods. The spacers would be the thickness of the amount removed from the head. This restores the geometry of the rocker arm,. Dallas ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Grunau" To: "Bob Howard" ; Cc: Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 10:17 AM Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head > John, > You should have no problem using the original or Moss 'long" pushrods. But > why buy new pushrods? Check eack end of the pushrods to see if they are > loose, if loose, clean, compress and tig weld the end to the tube. > Adjusting screws will almost certainly take up the small amount shaved off > the head. Short or long adjusting screws will work as you are in fact > shortening the screw/pushrod combination by 0.022" to accomodate the head > shaving. Bugger all. > I would not use two head gaskets unless trying to reduce compression ratio > ( which you are not ). > Bob Grunau > > John, > Be of good cheer. When you get the rocker assy back in place you can > figure out the necessary length of pushrod. Once you know that, it's easy > to shorten a pushrod. Pushrods are really push-tubes with fitted ends. > One end can be pulled off and you use a "parting tool" in a lathe to > shorten the tube. When I rebuilt my XPAG a decade back, Moss was out of > the short pushrods, sent the long ones, and a friend shortened them for > me in a half hour. > Bob >> >> >> Hey Mates >> >> I am trying to figure out which push rods I need for my MG TD engine >> build. Or rather, in the "real world" situation, if I can safely >> still use the "long" push rods Moss sells. I say this because they >> no longer have the short push rods. >> >> The Moss catalog states the factory head depth is 3.022. The shop >> resurfaced mine. My mechanic says it measures out with a very slight >> taper, but within spec, and averages 3.00 inches. So is my head >> "excessively" thinner to the point where the "long" push rods won't >> work? >> >> Moss says that they now have only the long push rods. The rep told >> me that Crane is out of business and no longer making push rods. I >> checked Crane's Website. Sure enough. Today (April 22) they are >> auctioning off all their inventory, equipment and intellectual >> property rights. Since they make the T-series camshaft that Moss >> sells, I don't know the implications of this to the T-Series >> community. >> >> As far as my situation at present, I have the head torqued down and >> the rocker arm assembly has been sent to Rocker Arm Specialists. So >> I hope I do not have to go with two head gaskets and I cannot tell >> you is my rocker arm assembly has the long or short adjusting >> screws. >> >> >> John Gunnell Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 15:38:49 2009 From: "Karl Vacek" To: "Dallas Congleton" , Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 15:08:09 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Shaved head I just sent this to the wrong list... Sure, spacing the rocker shaft up is sometimes a "close enough" solution, but the amount of shim needed depends on the rocker arm ratio. If the arms are 1:1, the shim height would be about half the thickness removed from the head. However, spacing the rocker shaft up any amount raises the rockers above the valves, thus tilting them and changing the geometry. More shim = more tilt. The only way to maintain the geometry is to change the pushrod length, which as Bob pointed out, is simple. Karl TC 6370 > John what was actually done back in the day was to install spacers under > the rocker arm stands to bring them back up to height for the push rods. > The spacers would be the thickness of the amount removed from the head. > This restores the geometry of the rocker arm,. > Dallas > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Grunau" > To: "Bob Howard" ; > Cc: > Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 10:17 AM > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head > > >> John, >> You should have no problem using the original or Moss 'long" pushrods. >> But >> why buy new pushrods? Check eack end of the pushrods to see if they are >> loose, if loose, clean, compress and tig weld the end to the tube. >> Adjusting screws will almost certainly take up the small amount shaved >> off >> the head. Short or long adjusting screws will work as you are in fact >> shortening the screw/pushrod combination by 0.022" to accomodate the head >> shaving. Bugger all. >> I would not use two head gaskets unless trying to reduce compression >> ratio >> ( which you are not ). >> Bob Grunau >> >> John, >> Be of good cheer. When you get the rocker assy back in place you can >> figure out the necessary length of pushrod. Once you know that, it's easy >> to shorten a pushrod. Pushrods are really push-tubes with fitted ends. >> One end can be pulled off and you use a "parting tool" in a lathe to >> shorten the tube. When I rebuilt my XPAG a decade back, Moss was out of >> the short pushrods, sent the long ones, and a friend shortened them for >> me in a half hour. >> Bob >>> >>> >>> Hey Mates >>> >>> I am trying to figure out which push rods I need for my MG TD engine >>> build. Or rather, in the "real world" situation, if I can safely >>> still use the "long" push rods Moss sells. I say this because they >>> no longer have the short push rods. >>> >>> The Moss catalog states the factory head depth is 3.022. The shop >>> resurfaced mine. My mechanic says it measures out with a very slight >>> taper, but within spec, and averages 3.00 inches. So is my head >>> "excessively" thinner to the point where the "long" push rods won't >>> work? >>> >>> Moss says that they now have only the long push rods. The rep told >>> me that Crane is out of business and no longer making push rods. I >>> checked Crane's Website. Sure enough. Today (April 22) they are >>> auctioning off all their inventory, equipment and intellectual >>> property rights. Since they make the T-series camshaft that Moss >>> sells, I don't know the implications of this to the T-Series >>> community. >>> >>> As far as my situation at present, I have the head torqued down and >>> the rocker arm assembly has been sent to Rocker Arm Specialists. So >>> I hope I do not have to go with two head gaskets and I cannot tell >>> you is my rocker arm assembly has the long or short adjusting >>> screws. >>> >>> >>> John Gunnell _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 15:39:38 2009 From: Bud Krueger To: gunnellj@athenet.net Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 16:23:09 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MG TD Push Rods I found it necessary to install Crane's shorter push rods after my rebuild. I installed the Crane cam with the larger base circle and had .100" milled from the head. The thickness of 2.922" with .060" overbore gives a compression ratio of about 9.1:1. The reason that I had to use the short push rods was because the cup of the push rod was hanging up on the underside of the rocker adjusting screw. Bud Krueger gunnellj@athenet.net wrote: > Moss catalog notations can drive you wild when you're rebuilding an XPAG. If you call the tech line, you sometimes get shunted to the order dept. if the tech guys are busy. Anyway, I think I know the answer here, but want to verify before we put the engine together. > > The shop resurfaced the head and who knows what was done to it before? My mechanic Vince says it actually has a slight taper to it, but is within normal specs on that and 3" thick on average overall. > > Moss catalog says the factory head is 3.022. So is mine "excessively milled" or not? Couldn't get an answer on the phone. The main thing is am I going to be OK with the "long" push rods -- which by the way are the only ones now available. More on this below. > > The rocker arm assembly is on its way to Rocker Arm Specialists so I do not know which adjusting screws I have until it's returned. I guess I could use two head gaskets if need be. Undortunately, we already torqued up with one. > > Oh, by the way. According to Moss, Crane is out of business and their inventory is up for grabs. I had just talked to a Crane rep at a show in January. Wonder how many T-Series cams they have left? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 16:12:15 2009 From: "Dallas Congleton" To: "Bob Grunau" , , Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 16:53:56 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head Ok Bob, being as the valves are fixed in the head and that side wasn't changed, it would appear that only the pushrod side was affected.- but the part number for the shim set to use after a head is milled is Moss # 433-128 fig 20 on the internal engine drwg. ? Dallas ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Grunau" To: "Dallas Congleton" ; ; Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 3:57 PM Subject: RE: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head > Sorry Dallas, spacers just SCREW UP the geometry of the rockers to valve > tips. Pushrod or adjusters only have to be shortened to compensate for > head milling. > Bob Grunau > > -----Original Message----- > From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of Dallas Congleton > Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 3:15 PM > To: mg-t@autox.team.net; gunnellj@athenet.net > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head > > > John what was actually done back in the day was to install spacers under > the rocker arm stands to bring them back up to height for the push rods. > The > spacers would be the thickness of the amount removed from the head. This > restores the geometry of the rocker arm,. > Dallas _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 16:55:29 2009 From: Bob Howard To: grunau.garage@sympatico.ca Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 17:27:29 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head Bob, Quite right about the spacers causing more misalignment, but in the Special Tuning booklet the use of spacers is suggested as an alternative to shortening the pushrods. (MG Technical Literature, L/17, issue 1, 1954. Stage T.F.2 (1250) for 9.3 compression "...raised to 9.3 to 1 compression ratio by by removing 1/16 from the head." "The finished thickness after machining shoudl be 73.575 mm. This is the absolute maximum to remove" (this is the answer to John's first question about minimum head thickness) and the booklet goes on to say "(c) To allow for the cylinder head machining it is better to shorten the push rods 1/16", by drawing off one end in an extractor jig, machining 1/16" off the tube end, conterboring the tube 1/16" deeper for the push-rod end to enter, refitting the push-rod end and spot welding through to retain end. Alternatively, use four rocker-shaft bracket packing pieces (part No. MG 862/459) to correct rocker adjustment. These are 1/16" mild steel with three holes to match base of the bracket" One wonders how many had rocker troubles because of bad information from the factory itself. Bob On Wed, 22 Apr 2009 15:57:34 -0400 "Bob Grunau" writes: > Sorry Dallas, spacers just SCREW UP the geometry of the rockers to > valve tips. Pushrod or adjusters only have to be shortened to compensate > for head milling. > Bob Grunau > > -----Original Message----- > From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of Dallas Congleton > Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 3:15 PM > To: mg-t@autox.team.net; gunnellj@athenet.net > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fwd: Shaved Head > > > John what was actually done back in the day was to install spacers > under the rocker arm stands to bring them back up to height for the push > rods. The spacers would be the thickness of the amount removed from the head. > This restores the geometry of the rocker arm,. > Dallas ____________________________________________________________ Be your own boss today with Computer Training. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTEfdSjdxXSwSkO1jK5exocY8bKNiAfWgS89CXb78zZBMEvoueTkzO/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 19:14:35 2009 From: To: spridgets@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 19:51:09 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] scrappage laws Hi Folks, This is a situation that we should all be aware of, of things that are happening in the name of "greenness": http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2009/04/21/ . I don't think I'd replace my MG TD no matter how much money the government gave me. It's not about that. This kind of legislation is simple meddling with our freedom. They want to make us feel bad about using too much energy and polluting so much, driving collectible cars? How about the amount of energy that is put into manufacturing new cars? From the mining to the sheet metal, from the raw plastics to the dashboard and bumpers, all the energy, waste, pollution, and cost that goes into tooling up and manufacturing a new car is huge. Witness that it's tough to find a decent new car for less than $15,000. There'd be a tremendous cost (burden) to many a family if they were required by law to buy a newer car. The cost of living is reduced by driving an older vehicle. There is also a big difference between an old "clunker" and a collector car. I envision some pinheaded do-gooder sitting in his/her office in D.C. (or Sacramento, Albany, or _________ fill in the blank) wringing hands over people driving a 16 year old Chevy or Ford or a rusty old pickup truck with 200 thousand miles on it, smoking away as they go about their lives, trying to make ends meet. On the other hand, those other terrible folks (us) are racing around pointlessly enjoying their useless hobby and polluting their little tiny world. (Forgive the acerbic flavor here.) As far as the people driving "clunkers", they probably would retire the car at the first opportunity if all the bills were paid and life was perfect. I love a sunny top-down day with the wind in my hair, taking in the scenery while toodling down a country road, getting smiles and thumbs-up all along the way. Pete Thiel '53 MG TD '91 Volvo 240 '99 Taurus '00 Mazda 626 and various old motorcycles P.S. Rebut or chime in as you wish, my intention is just as food for thought. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 21:19:25 2009 From: cgmoog@attglobal.net To: peter-thiel@sbcglobal.net Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 21:44:03 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws I never understand why people (other than independent garage owners) get in such a lather about voluntary (and all proposals have been voluntary) scrappage laws. No one is selling anything worthwhile to the government for the $650 to $2000 being offered for the old cars. The laws may be a burden on the poor but show me any regulations for cars that aren't (insurance requirements, safety standards, gas taxes). Yes energy is spent making cars but studies of energy have estimated that ~15% of the life cycle energy of an automobile used in its construction, distribution and disposal the remaining ~85% is in its operation (eyeballing from a graph in Argonne Labs paper titled "Development and Application of GREET 2.7 - The Transportation Vehicle-Cycle Model") Personally the only real way to lower energy use is to raise the gas tax. As was seen last summer once prices reach around $4 per gallon consumption is curtailed. Unpleasant but effective. peter-thiel@sbcglobal.net wrote: > Hi Folks, > This is a situation that we should all be aware of, of things that are > happening in the name of "greenness": > http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2009/04/21/ . > > I don't think I'd replace my MG TD no matter how much money the government > gave me. It's not about that. This kind of legislation is simple meddling with > our freedom. They want to make us feel bad about using too much energy and > polluting so much, driving collectible cars? How about the amount of energy > that is put into manufacturing new cars? From the mining to the sheet metal, > from the raw plastics to the dashboard and bumpers, all the energy, waste, > pollution, and cost that goes into tooling up and manufacturing a new car is > huge. Witness that it's tough to find a decent new car for less than $15,000. > There'd be a tremendous cost (burden) to many a family if they were required > by law to buy a newer car. The cost of living is reduced by driving an older > vehicle. > > There is also a big difference between an old "clunker" and a collector > car. I envision some pinheaded do-gooder sitting in his/her office in D.C. (or > Sacramento, Albany, or _________ fill in the blank) wringing hands over people > driving a 16 year old Chevy or Ford or a rusty old pickup truck with 200 > thousand miles on it, smoking away as they go about their lives, trying to > make ends meet. On the other hand, those other terrible folks (us) are racing > around pointlessly enjoying their useless hobby and polluting their little > tiny world. (Forgive the acerbic flavor here.) As far as the people driving > "clunkers", they probably would retire the car at the first opportunity if all > the bills were paid and life was perfect. > > I love a sunny top-down day with the wind in my hair, taking in the > scenery while toodling down a country road, getting smiles and thumbs-up all > along the way. > > Pete Thiel > '53 MG TD > '91 Volvo 240 > '99 Taurus > '00 Mazda 626 > and various old motorcycles > > P.S. Rebut or chime in as you wish, my intention is just as food for thought. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 22 22:23:09 2009 From: "John Quilter" To: "MG T List" Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 19:48:59 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws Good points all, but we can do all the hand wringing we want among our circle of cars enthusiasts but if you don't follow the laws being proposed in your state and make your point of view known to the legislators it is all for naught. Pick up the phone and make some calls or fire off an e-mail. In California we have the Association of California Car Clubs that is an umbrella group monitoring legislative proposals and lobbying on behalf of the car hobby in Sacramento. I encourage all who cherish the hobby to join if they are in California, or find a similar group in their state. The ACCC website is www.defender.org John F. Quilter Brisbane, California 1951 MGTD 1960 Morris Minor 1965 Jaguar 3.8S 1969 Austin America ----- Original Message ----- From: Cc: Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 4:51 PM Subject: [Mg-t] scrappage laws > Hi Folks, > This is a situation that we should all be aware of, of things that are > happening in the name of "greenness": > http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2009/04/21/ . > > I don't think I'd replace my MG TD no matter how much money the government > gave me. It's not about that. This kind of legislation is simple meddling with > our freedom. They want to make us feel bad about using too much energy and > polluting so much, driving collectible cars? How about the amount of energy > that is put into manufacturing new cars? From the mining to the sheet metal, > from the raw plastics to the dashboard and bumpers, all the energy, waste, > pollution, and cost that goes into tooling up and manufacturing a new car is > huge. Witness that it's tough to find a decent new car for less than $15,000. > There'd be a tremendous cost (burden) to many a family if they were required > by law to buy a newer car. The cost of living is reduced by driving an older > vehicle. > > There is also a big difference between an old "clunker" and a collector > car. I envision some pinheaded do-gooder sitting in his/her office in D.C. (or > Sacramento, Albany, or _________ fill in the blank) wringing hands over people > driving a 16 year old Chevy or Ford or a rusty old pickup truck with 200 > thousand miles on it, smoking away as they go about their lives, trying to > make ends meet. On the other hand, those other terrible folks (us) are racing > around pointlessly enjoying their useless hobby and polluting their little > tiny world. (Forgive the acerbic flavor here.) As far as the people driving > "clunkers", they probably would retire the car at the first opportunity if all > the bills were paid and life was perfect. > > I love a sunny top-down day with the wind in my hair, taking in the > scenery while toodling down a country road, getting smiles and thumbs-up all > along the way. > > Pete Thiel > '53 MG TD > '91 Volvo 240 > '99 Taurus > '00 Mazda 626 > and various old motorcycles > > P.S. Rebut or chime in as you wish, my intention is just as food for thought. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 23 07:00:26 2009 From: To: "MG T List" Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 07:09:25 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws And in Connecticut there is 4Cs: http://www.ctccc.net/ John, would you check that website for ACCC? Pete Thiel _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 24 00:51:35 2009 From: gunnellj@athenet.net To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 01:52:24 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] Blinkers & Shaved Heads HELLO Thaks for all the advice on the blinkers. We put in a new brake light switch and a new flasher and cleaned up all the contacts on the relay. Then I (finally) replaced the Lucar vacuum switch with a simple toggle switch. Not original, but should work better and last longer. I had well over $200 in getting the Lucas switches "fixed" and they never last long after the repair. I had also bought a new one and it didn't work at all. So I will toggle my way to happiness from now on. As for the head, I got a lot of good input with ideas from shims to shortening the push rods to using thick gaskets, but my basic question never really was answered. If the factory head measurement is 3.022 (according to Moss) and my head measues 3.000, do I really have to worry? John Gunnell _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 24 04:58:47 2009 From: Bud Krueger To: gunnellj@athenet.net Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 06:03:07 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Blinkers & Shaved Heads John, In a word, the answer to your question is "no". The 3.022" figure is the stock head thickness for a standard TD head. The heads used with MK II TDs and TF 1250 measure 2.959" and they use the same push rods. Bud Krueger gunnellj@athenet.net wrote: > HELLO > > Thaks for all the advice on the blinkers. We put in a new brake light switch and a new flasher and cleaned up all the contacts on the relay. Then I (finally) replaced the Lucar vacuum switch with a simple toggle switch. Not original, but should work better and last longer. I had well over $200 in getting the Lucas switches "fixed" and they never last long after the repair. I had also bought a new one and it didn't work at all. So I will toggle my way to happiness from now on. > > As for the head, I got a lot of good input with ideas from shims to shortening the push rods to using thick gaskets, but my basic question never really was answered. > > If the factory head measurement is 3.022 (according to Moss) and my head measues 3.000, do I really have to worry? > > John Gunnell > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Apr 24 20:44:52 2009 From: JohnD To: "peter-thiel@sbcglobal.net" Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 21:45:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws I doubt the government will make me give up a perfectly roadworthy MGTD. They'll probably take away my assault rifle and other sporting implements first. But I for one am holding on to my '96 Caravan with 265,000 miles on it and air-conditioned rocker panels, anticipating the day (coming soon, I hope) that President Obama offers me $650 for it. Hell, I might even buy another American car just to keep my neighbors at work. The only two I ever bought, a '65 Dodge and the '96 Dodge, both were pretty decent cars and both ran over 1/4 million miles before dissolving in Michigan winter salt. :-) -John Deikis Motown On 4/23/09, peter-thiel@sbcglobal.net wrote: > > And in Connecticut there is 4Cs: http://www.ctccc.net/ > John, would you check that website for ACCC? > Pete Thiel > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > -- Racing in the Past Lane! _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 25 03:29:06 2009 From: "Clive Sherriff" To: "JohnD" , Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 09:29:55 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws Hey John, Just love the concept of your assault rifle being in the catagory of "sporting implements"........ Clive Oxford UK =============================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "JohnD" To: Cc: "MG T List" Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 2:45 AM Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws >I doubt the government will make me give up a perfectly roadworthy MGTD. > They'll probably take away my assault rifle and other sporting implements > first. . . . . . . . . . :-) > -John Deikis > Motown _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 25 11:27:11 2009 From: Duvall Video Productions To: Clive Sherriff Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 11:27:27 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws It was a joke Clive. Assault weapons are illegal in the US and the US media, who generally are clueless to facts and do no research, call every gun an assault weapon. On Apr 25, 2009, at 3:29 AM, Clive Sherriff wrote: > Hey John, > > Just love the concept of your assault rifle being in the catagory > of "sporting implements"........ > > Clive > Oxford UK > =============================== > ----- Original Message ----- From: "JohnD" > To: > Cc: "MG T List" > Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 2:45 AM > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws > > >> I doubt the government will make me give up a perfectly roadworthy >> MGTD. >> They'll probably take away my assault rifle and other sporting >> implements >> first. . . . . . . . . . :-) >> -John Deikis >> Motown > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 25 12:12:57 2009 From: Charles Hill To: MG T List Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 12:08:28 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws Aren't hyperbole and judgmental adjectives required courses in Journalism School? Charles Hill Duvall Video Productions wrote: > It was a joke Clive. Assault weapons are illegal in the US and the US > media, who generally are clueless to facts and do no research, call > every gun an assault weapon. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 25 12:18:35 2009 From: rfeibusch1@earthlink.net To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 13:19:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws They come from the factory in the Journalist's software programs.... Rick Feibusch Automotive Journalist, Historial & Appraiser British Car Network www.allcarcentral.com Venice, CA > >Aren't hyperbole and judgmental adjectives required courses in >Journalism School? > >Charles Hill _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Apr 25 21:47:29 2009 From: spook01@comcast.net To: Duvall Video Productions Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 02:43:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws that would be the U.S. mainstream propaganda machine. "The maniac crashed his MG into the schoolyard then began spraying anyone within 10 feet with deadly water.B The president reluctantly calls for banning squirt guns", said the CNN ex-spurt.B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Duvall Video Productions" To: "Clive Sherriff" Cc: "MG T List" Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 11:27:27 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws It was a joke Clive. B Assault weapons are illegal in the US and the US B media, who generally are clueless to facts and do no research, call B every gun an assault weapon. On Apr 25, 2009, at 3:29 AM, Clive Sherriff wrote: > Hey John, > > Just love the concept of your assault rifle being in the catagory B > of B "sporting implements"........ > > Clive > Oxford UK > =============================== > ----- Original Message ----- From: "JohnD" > To: > Cc: "MG T List" > Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 2:45 AM > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws > > >> I doubt the government will make me give up a perfectly roadworthy B >> MGTD. >> They'll probably take away my assault rifle and other sporting B >> implements >> first. B . . . . . . . . . B :-) >> -John Deikis >> Motown > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net B http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 26 02:58:12 2009 From: "Clive Sherriff" To: "Duvall Video Productions" Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 08:39:41 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws - Assault Weapons John, Dont know about the legality, but the US millitary and others still seem to use them a lot . Mostly on away games as far as I can tell. Clive ==================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Duvall Video Productions" To: "Clive Sherriff" Cc: "MG T List" Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 5:27 PM Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws > It was a joke Clive. Assault weapons are illegal in the US and the US > media, who generally are clueless to facts and do no research, call > every gun an assault weapon. > > > > On Apr 25, 2009, at 3:29 AM, Clive Sherriff wrote: > >> Hey John, >> >> Just love the concept of your assault rifle being in the catagory >> of "sporting implements"........ >> >> Clive >> Oxford UK >> =============================== >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "JohnD" >> To: >> Cc: "MG T List" >> Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 2:45 AM >> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws >> >> >>> I doubt the government will make me give up a perfectly roadworthy >>> MGTD. >>> They'll probably take away my assault rifle and other sporting >>> implements >>> first. . . . . . . . . . :-) >>> -John Deikis >>> Motown >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Mg-t@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t >> >> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Apr 26 10:57:49 2009 From: Duvall Video Productions To: Clive Sherriff Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2009 10:58:37 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws - Assault Weapons I believe the standard military issue for the British is the British SA80 used in Northern Ireland, both Gulf Wars, Bosnia, Kosovo, Sierra Leone, and Afghanastan. Perhaps if terrorist, pirates and dictators were buying military grade guns made in 3rd world countries your army wouldn't need these weapons. Do those qualify as away games? On Apr 26, 2009, at 2:39 AM, Clive Sherriff wrote: > John, > > Dont know about the legality, but the US millitary and others still > seem to use them a lot . Mostly on away games as far as I can tell. > > Clive > ==================================== > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Duvall Video Productions" > > To: "Clive Sherriff" > Cc: "MG T List" > Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 5:27 PM > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws > > >> It was a joke Clive. Assault weapons are illegal in the US and the >> US media, who generally are clueless to facts and do no research, >> call every gun an assault weapon. >> On Apr 25, 2009, at 3:29 AM, Clive Sherriff wrote: >>> Hey John, >>> >>> Just love the concept of your assault rifle being in the catagory >>> of "sporting implements"........ >>> >>> Clive >>> Oxford UK >>> =============================== >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "JohnD" >>> To: >>> Cc: "MG T List" >>> Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 2:45 AM >>> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws >>> >>> >>>> I doubt the government will make me give up a perfectly >>>> roadworthy MGTD. >>>> They'll probably take away my assault rifle and other sporting >>>> implements >>>> first. . . . . . . . . . :-) >>>> -John Deikis >>>> Motown >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Mg-t@autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t >>> >>> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Apr 27 07:53:44 2009 From: rfeibusch1@earthlink.net To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 06:53:28 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Mg-t] SF BAY AREA MG EVENT! - MGs by the Bay - 5 - 9 - 09 The MG Owners Club presents MGs by the Bay Saturday, May 9, 2009 at The Livery This annual event is a gathering of MGs from across Northern California. Starting at 10:00AM, rain or shine, with trophies awarded at 2:00 p.m. Same-day registration opens at 8:00 a.m. New location in Danville, CA, under the trees at The Livery shopping center! 400 Sycamore Valley Road, in Danville - Just 1 block west off Highway 680 Awards: Judging is by popular vote, with trophies awarded for Peoplebs Choice, Best Daily Driver, Premier (previous winners), & for every class, with classes determined according to the number of cars registered by May 1, 2009. Entries: All MGs are welcome, from daily drivers to complete restorations. The $25 entry fee includes a dash plaque, an event T-shirt, & special coupons from our sponsors. Additional cars registered to the same owner are $10 each, which includes a dash plaque only. All cars must arrive by 10:00 a.m. sharp! This is necessary to allow for proper placement of the cars. If you arrive late, we cannot guarantee placement of your car with others in its class. Return the registration form below with the entry fee. Photocopies of this form are acceptable. One form is required for each MG. ************************************************************ Mail before May 1, 2009 - PDF file attached: Make checks payable to MGOC, MGs by the Bay For information contact: 415-333-9699 or 925-899-1218 PDF File form available from our website at: www.MGOC.org Please Print: MG model: ____________ Year: _______ Name: ______________________________________ Address: ____________________________________ City: ________________________________________ State: _______________ Zip code:________________ Body style: Coupe Roadster Saloon Race car Other Car color: ______________ T-shirt size: M L XL XXL Email address: ______________________________ Daytime phone: ( ____ ) ______________________ Short description of car: Has this car ever won First in Class at MGs by the Bay? Yes No Release: Neither I nor my heirs will hold the MG Owners Club or The Livery Shoping Center liable for any loss, damage, or injury done to me, or my party, while engaged in this event or traveling to and from this event. Signature: ___________________________ Date: ___________ MAIL TO: MGs by the Bay, 320 B Monterey Blvd. San Francisco, CA 94131 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 28 21:31:13 2009 From: hstrachman@yahoo.com To: MG Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 20:31:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mg-t] lights and wiper questions Greetings I have two problems with my late 53 TD. One, the wipers --when I turn them on, they will make one sweep and then bind up. The motor was built by a respected builder in New England. All parts are moving freely but it just stops. Also, can you tell me what the blade stop plate does? I'm missing mine. Two, the lights--with key off, light switch in first position, front and rear lights are bright -- when key switch is turned to power all 4 lights dim. Plus no brake lights. I replaced brake light switch, recently, and brakes lights worked after replacement. Thanks Herb _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 28 23:06:44 2009 From: Dave and Liz DuBois To: hstrachman@yahoo.com Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 22:06:21 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] lights and wiper questions Herb, > The motor was built by a respected builder in New England. That would be Lawrie Rhoads. He would be better able to answer the question on why the wipers stall out. > Also, can you tell me what the blade stop plate does? I'm not aware of that, so I am probably missing that on our 53 TD also. My guess is that it stops the blades from blowing up beyond the of the windshield as happens on ours if there is a heavy wind blowing when we are driving. > when key switch is turned to power all 4 lights dim. That would indicate a problem in the ignition/light switch or a heavy load on the electrical system when the ignition is turned on. What does the ammeter read when the ignition is turned on? Check the reading with the lights on and the ignition off, the lights off and ignition on and finally lights and ignition on at the same time. > I replaced brake light switch, recently, and brakes lights worked after replacement. They won't be after a short period of time, unless you got the switch from Ron Francis Wiring, the replacement switches available from Moss, Abingdon, NAPA, etc are so light duty, they don't hold up well without a relay/arc suppression circuit added. For information on making and installing a relay/arc suppression circuit, see the article Brake Light Relay in the Other Tech Articles section of my web site at: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ Cheers, Dave _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Apr 28 23:19:13 2009 From: "Lawrence Karpman" To: , "MG" Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 00:19:04 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] lights and wiper questions I have a '53 and don't know what you mean by blade stop plate. Also, is your windscreen wet when you try the wipers? Mine will do the same as yours when the screen is dry. Cheers Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "MG" Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 10:31 PM Subject: [Mg-t] lights and wiper questions > Greetings > I have two problems with my late 53 TD. > One, the wipers --when I turn them on, they will make one sweep and then > bind > up. The motor was built by a respected builder in New England. All parts > are > moving freely but it just stops. Also, can you tell me what the blade stop > plate does? I'm missing mine. > > Two, the lights--with key off, light switch in first position, front and > rear > lights are bright -- when key switch is turned to power all 4 lights dim. > Plus > no brake lights. I replaced brake light switch, recently, and brakes > lights worked after replacement. > > Thanks > > Herb > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 29 06:48:47 2009 From: herb strachman To: MG , Lawrence Karpman Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 05:48:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mg-t] lights and wiper questions Larry, What I mean by "blade stop plate" is shown in the picture on the page 152 of Horst Schach book "MG TD Restoration Manual". Herb --- On Wed, 4/29/09, Lawrence Karpman wrote: From: Lawrence Karpman Subject: Re: [Mg-t] lights and wiper questions To: hstrachman@yahoo.com, "MG" Date: Wednesday, April 29, 2009, 1:19 AM I have a '53 and don't know what you mean by blade stop plate. Also, is your windscreen wet when you try the wipers? Mine will do the same as yours when the screen is dry. Cheers Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "MG" Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 10:31 PM Subject: [Mg-t] lights and wiper questions > Greetings > I have two problems with my late 53 TD. > One, the wipers --when I turn them on, they will make one sweep and then bind > up. The motor was built by a respected builder in New England. All parts are > moving freely but it just stops. Also, can you tell me what the blade stop > plate does? I'm missing mine. > > Two, the lights--with key off, light switch in first position, front and rear > lights are bright -- when key switch is turned to power all 4 lights dim. Plus > no brake lights. I replaced brake light switch, recently, and brakes > lights worked after replacement. > > Thanks > > Herb > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 29 10:24:47 2009 From: Dave and Liz DuBois To: herb strachman Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 09:24:33 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] lights and wiper questions Herb, If it is any consolation, I don't have that blade stop on our 53 TD either. If it ever existed, it was removed or lost long before I got the car. In normal driving conditions, it is not really needed. The only time that I have ever had a problem was when driving into a stiff head wind. then the wiper blads and arms would blow up past the top of the windshield and get stuck on the edge of the top. Cheers, Dave _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 29 12:30:39 2009 From: Gerald Felper To: "Lawrence Karpman" Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 11:29:43 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] lights and wiper questions The stop plate is not used on MGs Jerry On Apr 28, 2009, at 10:19 PM, Lawrence Karpman wrote: > I have a '53 and don't know what you mean by blade stop plate. > Also, is your windscreen wet when you try the wipers? Mine will do > the same as yours when the screen is dry. > > Cheers > > Larry > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: "MG" > Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 10:31 PM > Subject: [Mg-t] lights and wiper questions > > >> Greetings >> I have two problems with my late 53 TD. >> One, the wipers --when I turn them on, they will make one sweep >> and then bind >> up. The motor was built by a respected builder in New England. All >> parts are >> moving freely but it just stops. Also, can you tell me what the >> blade stop >> plate does? I'm missing mine. >> >> Two, the lights--with key off, light switch in first position, >> front and rear >> lights are bright -- when key switch is turned to power all 4 >> lights dim. Plus >> no brake lights. I replaced brake light switch, recently, and brakes >> lights worked after replacement. >> >> Thanks >> >> Herb >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Mg-t@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t >> >> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive Gerald Felper Felper Engineering felperg@earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Apr 29 18:38:19 2009 From: rbhouston To: "Duvall Video Productions" , "Clive Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 18:36:43 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws Actually it all depends on whose definition you use. The US anti-gun folks classify any semi automatic weapon as an assault weapon. My old 50's Remington 20 gauge shotgun, deadly only to doves in season, would classify under some of the descriptions. Also, at this time, semi-automatic versions of the AK47, M16, and many others are not illegal in the US. Several new derivatives of the M16 introduced in the 70's, are designed for hunting or target shooting. Sorry to chime in late and all, but I couldn't resist. Robert Houston....usually about now someone will tell us to only talk about MGs.... In a message dated 04/25/09 10:28:32 Mountain Daylight Time, duvallcom@sbcglobal.net writes: It was a joke Clive. Assault weapons are illegal in the US and the US media, who generally are clueless to facts and do no research, call every gun an assault weapon. On Apr 25, 2009, at 3:29 AM, Clive Sherriff wrote: > Hey John, > > Just love the concept of your assault rifle being in the catagory > of "sporting implements"........ > > Clive > Oxford UK > =============================== > ----- Original Message ----- From: "JohnD" > To: > Cc: "MG T List" > Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 2:45 AM > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws > > >> I doubt the government will make me give up a perfectly roadworthy >> MGTD. >> They'll probably take away my assault rifle and other sporting >> implements >> first. . . . . . . . . . :-) >> -John Deikis >> Motown > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 30 20:45:36 2009 From: JohnD To: hstrachman@yahoo.com Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 22:45:27 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] lights and wiper questions If your wiper motor appears to be operating and the blades stop, It might be that the shaft is slipping in its "clutch-like" attachment device at the wiper arm. Look at the wiper arm carefully when the thing stops-- you may see the shaft still doing it's back and forth turning. This is a peculiar piece of engineering and staring at it for awhile will reveal the secrets of its logic. You can then try something to make the fit tighter and see if that does the trick. JohnD On 4/28/09, hstrachman@yahoo.com wrote: > > Greetings > I have two problems with my late 53 TD. > One, the wipers --when I turn them on, they will make one sweep and then > bind > up. The motor was built by a respected builder in New England. All parts > are > moving freely but it just stops. Also, can you tell me what the blade stop > plate does? I'm missing mine. > > Two, the lights--with key off, light switch in first position, front and > rear > lights are bright -- when key switch is turned to power all 4 lights dim. > Plus > no brake lights. I replaced brake light switch, recently, and brakes > lights worked after replacement. > > Thanks > > Herb > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > -- Racing in the Past Lane! _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 30 21:22:56 2009 From: "oliver" To: "MG" Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 22:18:43 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] magazine question is there a national magazine that focuses on T cars? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 30 21:23:12 2009 From: "spook01" To: "rbhouston" , "Duvall Video Productions" Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 22:22:24 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws OK, that's it. Let's talk about only MG's....machine guns. that is to say, REAL assault weapons. "The U.N. is a place where governments opposed to free speech demand to be heard." - Alfred E. Neuman ----- Original Message ----- From: "rbhouston" To: "Duvall Video Productions" ; "CliveSherriff" Cc: "MG T List" Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 7:36 PM Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws > Actually it all depends on whose definition you use. The US anti-gun > folks classify any semi automatic weapon as an assault weapon. My old > 50's Remington 20 gauge shotgun, deadly only to doves in season, would > classify under some of the descriptions. > > Also, at this time, semi-automatic versions of the AK47, M16, and many > others are not illegal in the US. > > Several new derivatives of the M16 introduced in the 70's, are designed > for hunting or target shooting. > > Sorry to chime in late and all, but I couldn't resist. > > Robert Houston....usually about now someone will tell us to only talk > about MGs.... > > > > In a message dated 04/25/09 10:28:32 Mountain Daylight Time, > duvallcom@sbcglobal.net writes: > It was a joke Clive. Assault weapons are illegal in the US and the US > media, who generally are clueless to facts and do no research, call > every gun an assault weapon. > > > > On Apr 25, 2009, at 3:29 AM, Clive Sherriff wrote: > >> Hey John, >> >> Just love the concept of your assault rifle being in the catagory >> of "sporting implements"........ >> >> Clive >> Oxford UK >> =============================== >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "JohnD" >> To: >> Cc: "MG T List" >> Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 2:45 AM >> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] scrappage laws >> >> >>> I doubt the government will make me give up a perfectly roadworthy >>> MGTD. >>> They'll probably take away my assault rifle and other sporting >>> implements >>> first. . . . . . . . . . :-) >>> -John Deikis >>> Motown >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Mg-t@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t >> >> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Apr 30 21:33:42 2009 From: TATERRY@aol.com To: sumton@sbcglobal.net, Mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 23:33:26 EDT Subject: Re: [Mg-t] magazine question In a message dated 4/30/2009 8:23:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sumton@sbcglobal.net writes: > is there a national magazine that focuses on T cars? > The Sacred Octagon, news magazine of the New England MG T Register....see their web site. Otherwise, books or UK MGCC T Register. Terry in Oakland


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Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar! (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive