From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 1 07:32:54 2009 From: John Seim To: oliver Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 06:26:39 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] fuel lines Originally, they were rubber lines, with woven metal covering. They would leak when you took the carbs off to repair something, as they would crack once exposed to air. Change them out for new ones from Moss or Abingdon. Braided stainless steel covering teflon lines. Much better than old stock. John Seim Irvine, CA On Aug 31, 2009, at 8:30 AM, oliver wrote: > hi all. > > been discussing what is original and what is available. my fuel > lines are > both braided cloth, probably rubber inside that. > > both moss and abingdon sell metal fuel lines. > > anyone know what's original, and if its the cloth braid where to > get it? > > thanks > > Oliver _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 1 09:19:50 2009 From: Tuck Southworth To: , , Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 11:17:52 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] fuel lines All, I changed out the old rubber lines for stainless some years ago for these same reasons. I also recall that you run less chance of incurring vapor lock with the braided stainless lines, but not sure if that's true or not. Tuck > Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 09:21:12 -0700 > From: taterry@pacbell.net > To: mg-t@autox.team.net; sumton@sbcglobal.net > Subject: Re: [Mg-t] fuel lines > > Oliver, get rid of those original fuel lines as soon as possible. They are > dangerous and fire is a likely result...go with the Moss or AS fuel lines as > they have teflon tubing in side the metal sleeves and will not fail with the > use of modern petrol. They most likely were metal with rubber tubing inside > originally. > Terry in Oakland > > --- On Mon, 8/31/09, oliver wrote: > > > From: oliver > Subject: [Mg-t] fuel lines > To: "T series list" > Date: Monday, August 31, 2009, 8:30 AM > > > hi all. > > been discussing what is original and what is available. my fuel lines are > both braided cloth, probably rubber inside that. > > both moss and abingdon sell metal fuel lines. > > anyone know what's original, and if its the cloth braid where to get it? > > thanks > > Oliver > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 3 20:52:01 2009 From: "Dan" To: Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 22:51:33 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed Listers, I have done all the homework I can, and now at wit's end, I need your expertise. Sorry for the length of this request, I am trying to include all relevant info. Though I have driven my '54 TF more than 500 miles since engine was partially rebuilt by a factory trained (back then) mechanic. Top end only, and I am not sure of each and every thing he did, but it included a good used stock cam, and new valve guides at least. Each cylinder compression reads right around 140 psi. Carbs were rebuilt by another veteran of similar vintage whose TSO ads you would be familiar with. These gentlemen are well experienced, so it seems unlikely they put things back together wrong. I have thus assumed the jets are properly centered (they come down with a "clunk" when lifted and let go). The idle adjustment screws were set with the connecting rod loosened so that each adjustment screw was independent of the other. After many tries at tuning, I finally took the car to the local LBC shop (which restores and maintains many British and special sports cars). They corrected the timing, re-balanced the carbs and adjusted the mixture. It runs much better, and after 100 miles last weekend, the plugs are light tan, all of them. Here's the problem. The idle speed is still 1200 - 1300 RPM and the adjustment screws as far out as they will go without actually removing them. Having reviewed Mr. Old's articles on tuning from The T Series Handbook (did my homework as best I could), I am concerned about his paragraph saying the most likely cause of inability to adjust RPMs to the desired 800 - 900 is an intake air leak. I tested this with an unlit propane torch, but was unable to perceive any change in engine speed or performance. I am concerned because of Mr. Old's admonition that with an intake leak the car might idle OK, but will suffer from a wrong mixture as the engine is revved up under driving conditions. He says that bad things can happen then. I also reviewed the archives, and I really don't want to get into removing the newly rebuilt carbs unless I have to (Lawrie Alexander's instructions to a TD owner.) Is my only option to change out the intake / exhaust gasket to be sure there is no leak? Is there any other way to understand what is happening, or to make this adjustment? Should I stop driving the car until this is solved? Or, should I quit worrying and drive the car with the idle at 1200 to 1300? Any help appreciated. Dan TF Car # 3563 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 3 21:19:35 2009 From: Dave and Liz DuBois To: Dan Date: Thu, 03 Sep 2009 20:07:40 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed Dan, Check that the throttle disks are properly centered in the throat of the carbs. Loosen the screws and move the disks around until the close exactly all the way around the disk. If the disks are not exactly centered in the carb throats, they will not close all the way, resulting in a high idle speed. Cheers, Dave _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 4 04:06:23 2009 From: "Clive Sherriff" To: Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 11:05:57 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed Dan, If everything else looks OK then its probably due to a leak at the Carb / Inlet manifold joint due to the Carb flange having warped. It's a fairly low grade metal to say the least. Ensure the carb flange face is flat - usually a simple filing job, and refit with new gaskets (trust there is a gasket!) and try again. Clive ================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan" To: Sent: Friday, September 04, 2009 3:51 AM Subject: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed > Listers, > > > > I have done all the homework I can, and now at wit's end, I need your > expertise. Sorry for the length of this request, I am trying to include > all > relevant info. > > > > Though I have driven my '54 TF more than 500 miles since engine was > partially rebuilt by a factory trained (back then) mechanic. Top end > only, > and I am not sure of each and every thing he did, but it included a good > used stock cam, and new valve guides at least. Each cylinder compression > reads right around 140 psi. Carbs were rebuilt by another veteran of > similar vintage whose TSO ads you would be familiar with. These gentlemen > are well experienced, so it seems unlikely they put things back together > wrong. I have thus assumed the jets are properly centered (they come down > with a "clunk" when lifted and let go). The idle adjustment screws were > set > with the connecting rod loosened so that each adjustment screw was > independent of the other. > > > > After many tries at tuning, I finally took the car to the local LBC shop > (which restores and maintains many British and special sports cars). They > corrected the timing, re-balanced the carbs and adjusted the mixture. It > runs much better, and after 100 miles last weekend, the plugs are light > tan, > all of them. > > > > Here's the problem. The idle speed is still 1200 - 1300 RPM and the > adjustment screws as far out as they will go without actually removing > them. > > > > > Having reviewed Mr. Old's articles on tuning from The T Series Handbook > (did > my homework as best I could), I am concerned about his paragraph saying > the > most likely cause of inability to adjust RPMs to the desired 800 - 900 is > an > intake air leak. I tested this with an unlit propane torch, but was > unable > to perceive any change in engine speed or performance. I am concerned > because of Mr. Old's admonition that with an intake leak the car might > idle > OK, but will suffer from a wrong mixture as the engine is revved up under > driving conditions. He says that bad things can happen then. I also > reviewed the archives, and I really don't want to get into removing the > newly rebuilt carbs unless I have to (Lawrie Alexander's instructions to a > TD owner.) > > > > Is my only option to change out the intake / exhaust gasket to be sure > there > is no leak? Is there any other way to understand what is happening, or to > make this adjustment? Should I stop driving the car until this is solved? > Or, should I quit worrying and drive the car with the idle at 1200 to > 1300? > > > > > Any help appreciated. > > > > Dan > > TF Car # 3563 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 4 05:56:36 2009 From: Bud Krueger To: Dave and Liz DuBois Date: Fri, 04 Sep 2009 07:18:51 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed Dan, Another item to check is the installation of the throttle discs. They are beveled on two edges to match the curvature of the inside of the throats. If installed backwards there is the same effect as the throttle being advanced. Hard to imagine one of the TSO advertisers doing this, but things do happen. Bud Krueger Dave and Liz DuBois wrote: > Dan, > > Check that the throttle disks are properly centered in the throat of > the carbs. Loosen the screws and move the disks around until the > close exactly all the way around the disk. If the disks are not > exactly centered in the carb throats, they will not close all the way, > resulting in a high idle speed. > > Cheers, > Dave > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 4 07:07:29 2009 From: Bob Howard To: imoz@columbus.rr.com Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 08:42:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed Not likely to be the cause of your high idle, but check that the horizontal choke lever has a bit of slack in its action, that it's not pulling the jets down at all, and that the choke's high-idle adjustment has the specified clearance. If the idle speed and jets are set just right, and the choke linkage is then connected without a bit of looseness, it can pull the jets down and raise idle speed. If you can't find the source of the high idle, enjoy driving the car. There's no need to spend the rest of the driving season chasing this. Bob > your > expertise. Sorry for the length of this request, I am trying to > include all > relevant info. ____________________________________________________________ Human Resource Training Complete an accredited human resources degree, 100% online. Free info! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=axZqVSqB9gz6aUqsPUNgNwAAJ1AZtbtuTpx5SVCdlh4YnsjUAAQAAAAFAAAAAEa2Mz4AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABIjAAAAAA== _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 4 21:04:25 2009 From: "Dan" To: Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 23:03:18 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed Oh, my gosh, what a wealth of experience several listers have already given to this request for info. I truly appreciate it, and if others have ideas, I thank you in advance. My greatest relief is to know that it is not likely I will do damage by driving it now, as I kind of suspected and hoped. The upcoming Labor Day weekend will be perfect top-down weather, and you will not find me in front of the computer. This has been a long time coming. I will chase this idle speed thing down, and I will report back to the list, but please be patient. It may not be until next February, but I guaranty it will be before May! Octagonally, Dan'l Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2009 11:08 PM To: Dan Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Too high idle speed Dan, Check that the throttle disks are properly centered in the throat _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 7 11:09:06 2009 From: Andrew Kirk To: MG T list , Terry Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 10:08:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mg-t] Classic Car pictures Hi All: The wife has requested I get rid of 5 classic lithrographs of classic sports cars. These are in frames with glass and were the type road and track used in their centerfolds except I obtained there at a car show and they were never folded. I don't want to ship them so you will need to pick them up I live in the San Jose area of CA. Pictures are a Buggati A Riley, An MG magnett, a 1750 Alfa, and a blower Bently. E-mail me if interested and can pick up.Andy Work is the curse of the biking classes!! Andrew J. Kirk andrewk962@yahoo.com cell 650-224-3527 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 7 20:54:46 2009 From: LAF48@aol.com To: mg-t@autox.team.net, mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com, Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 15:45:58 EDT Subject: [Mg-t] Fwd: [MGVR] MG-TD 1250 Crankshaft Needed Return-Path: Received: from rly-de11.mx.aol.com (rly-de11.mail.aol.com [172.19.170.147]) by air-de08.mail.aol.com (v125.7) with ESMTP id MAILINDE082-5174a9da32a1c9; Tue, 01 Sep 2009 18:42:04 -0400 Received: from n1-vm1.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com (n1-vm1.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com [67.195.134.219]) by rly-de11.mx.aol.com (v125.7) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINDE118-5174a9da32a1c9; Tue, 01 Sep 2009 18:41:46 -0400 DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=yahoogroups.com; s=lima; t=1251844906; bh=AIr8X3prJqQMlKrRXuiYFGs8HAGKY7tIcwTs8ea67po=; h=Received:Received:Received:X-Yahoo-Newman-Id:X-Sender:X-Apparently-To:X-Received:X-Received:X-Received:X-Received:X-Received:Message-ID:To:X-Mailer:X-Spam-Flag:X-AOL-SENDER:X-Originating-IP:X-eGroups-Msg-Info:From:Sender:MIME-Version:Mailing-List:Delivered-To:List-Id:Precedence:List-Unsubscribe:Date:Subject:Reply-To:X-Yahoo-Newman-Property:Content-Type; b=ZEZlnSogYcyQ3SmNEVx0dzI7XkQiValYX2lHwnRTuTlexHMQJogd2VK4Hm+bya4UHMAAUwQ5vIXev4nkp0WcU8dsPAz8Ot5GOTDgakaflgrfW+OI0XgDtxP53VoAKcOQ DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=lima; d=yahoogroups.com; b=TQMJGyVQouxNn+oHKA6DdFDUeWk2JDPyvjI878thVg3+ZSIxJNO74Q4Ihcga8QAJKz5/tYCwG6tnWmlxr/KSCYuGM822W7+MqxBXIJuMTS8RP55Xec+hNAuIM5Cv7lxL; Received: from [67.195.134.49] by n1.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 01 Sep 2009 22:41:46 -0000 Received: from [69.147.65.149] by t2.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 01 Sep 2009 22:41:46 -0000 Received: from [98.137.34.41] by t9.bullet.mail.sp1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 01 Sep 2009 22:41:46 -0000 X-Yahoo-Newman-Id: 3653686-m9223 X-Sender: SnowPoint@aol.com X-Apparently-To: MGVR@yahoogroups.com X-Received: (qmail 87095 invoked from network); 1 Sep 2009 22:41:42 -0000 X-Received: from unknown (69.147.108.201) by m5.grp.sp2.yahoo.com with QMQP; 1 Sep 2009 22:41:42 -0000 X-Received: from unknown (HELO imr-ma06.mx.aol.com) (64.12.78.142) by mta2.grp.re1.yahoo.com with SMTP; 1 Sep 2009 22:41:41 -0000 X-Received: from imo-ma04.mx.aol.com (imo-ma04.mx.aol.com [64.12.78.139]) by imr-ma06.mx.aol.com (8.14.1/8.14.1) with ESMTP id n81Mf55s022921 for ; Tue, 1 Sep 2009 18:41:05 -0400 X-Received: from SnowPoint@aol.com by imo-ma04.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v42.5.) id r.c61.53ca5b02 (39329) for ; Tue, 1 Sep 2009 18:41:01 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: To: MGVR@yahoogroups.com X-Mailer: AOL 9.0 VR sub 5202 X-AOL-SENDER: SnowPoint@aol.com X-Originating-IP: 64.12.78.142 X-eGroups-Msg-Info: 1:12:0:0:0 From: SnowPoint@aol.com Sender: MGVR@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Mailing-List: list MGVR@yahoogroups.com; contact MGVR-owner@yahoogroups.com Delivered-To: mailing list MGVR@yahoogroups.com List-Id: Precedence: bulk List-Unsubscribe: Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 18:41:44 EDT Subject: [MGVR] MG-TD 1250 Crankshaft Needed Reply-To: MGVR@yahoogroups.com X-Yahoo-Newman-Property: groups-email-tradh-u Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-AOL-IP: 67.195.134.219 X-AOL-SCOLL-AUTHENTICATION: mail_rly_antispam_dkim-m266.1 ; domain : yahoogroups.com DKIM : pass X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 1.01d X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain I am looking for a TD crankshaft for my crew chiefs street 1953 TD. This is not a racecar but his personal club meeting car. The one he has shows a crack in it. Called Moldex but expensive and a long wait. If anyone has one or has a lead on one. Let us know. My crew chief is Dan Terrell and his phone # is 616 891-1249 Jim Austhof Red MGB #1 _Snowpoint@aol.com_ (mailto:Snowpoint@aol.com) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 7 20:54:57 2009 From: joecurto@aol.com To: laf48@aol.com, mg-t@autox.team.net, mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com, Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 16:50:55 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [mg-tabc] Fwd: [MGVR] MG-TD 1250 Crankshaft Needed I have a XPAG crankshaft cut polished & magnafluxed .050/.050 with bearings, Located in New York city joecurto@aol.com 718 762-7878 weekdays -----Original Message----- From: laf48@aol.com To: mg-t@autox.team.net; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com; charleyrob@charter.net; nwmgtr@sinclair.net; MGTD1952@cs.com; tandxroth@worldnet.att.net; FIGSMG@cs.com; grunau.garage@sympatico.ca; barcc@syd.auracom.com; MIKEFRAN@aol.com; mgnut@mindspring.com; lst1167@theinter.com; MG50Ytype@aol.com; tokarj@erols.com; meltonroger@sbcglobal.net; roycrane@att.net; murphy@eclipse.net; TOPAZTD@aol.com; Roselover5@aol.com; klorander@bellsouth.net; lkmend@msn.com; chuckh55@cbiwireless.com; sugarloaf@efortress.com; Kimberclose@aol.com; kedtexas2@msn.com; billh@rangelinemews.com; azmgclub@ten4ten.com; pthelander@earthlink.net; j2george@pacbell.net; kelsey@shadetreemotors.com; bruceobbink@comcast.net; gordclark@serurenet.net; t_m_moreland@msn.com Sent: Sun, Sep 6, 2009 3:45 pm Subject: [mg-tabc] Fwd: [MGVR] MG-TD 1250 Crankshaft Needed [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __._,_.___ Messages in this topic (1) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Members MARKETPLACE Mom Power: Discover the community of moms doing more for their families, for the world and for each other Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! 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Groups blog the best source for the latest scoop on Groups. . __,_._,___ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 8 21:18:27 2009 From: "oliver" To: "MG LIST" , "T series list" Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 22:08:06 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] anything happening the weekend of nov 13-14 looks like i'll be in the philadelphia area that weekend anything going on? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 17 12:32:17 2009 From: John Seim To: MG Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:58:09 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD Splash Apron Piping Does the piping just go along side the splash apron, or did it make the curve, and end facing the bonnet? John Seim _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 17 13:45:46 2009 From: Duvall Video Productions To: MG T-Series List , mg-t@autox.team.net, Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 14:22:27 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Vintage races at Road America I went to the vintage auto races at Road America last weekend. It was great! If your interested in a few photos..... Enjoy and if someone finds their own own car let me know and I'll send you the files, Mike http://www.flickr.com/welcome/39563194/bfb0a534e2/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 17 14:16:14 2009 From: "Lawrie Alexander" To: "MG" , "John Seim" Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 12:51:49 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MG TD Splash Apron Piping John, On all the cars I've restored, I've always taken the piping around the curve to the edge of the radiator shell. Obviously, I believe this to be the correct way of doing it (!) and have never had anyone question it. Cheers, Lawrie ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Seim" To: "MG" Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:58 AM Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD Splash Apron Piping > Does the piping just go along side the splash apron, or did it make the > curve, > and end facing the bonnet? > > John Seim _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 17 14:45:46 2009 From: Bob Howard To: kingseim@earthlink.net Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 16:24:52 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MG TD Splash Apron Piping John, Starting at the bumper bolt area, the piping rises vertically about four inches, then turns and runs horizontally about 13 inches, stopping at the end of the splash apron. It does not make a turn there to go toward the bonnet. Bob On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:58:09 -0700 John Seim writes: > Does the piping just go along side the splash apron, or did it make > > the curve, > and end facing the bonnet? > > John Seim > ____________________________________________________________ Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFoYa32HBUBNNFCeLYvPFC1grj8Ez566pJekuS9oohzkNSDbJD2qk/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 22 13:52:05 2009 From: John Seim To: dgroue2512 , mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com, MG Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 12:45:07 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [mg-tabc] steering wheel 1950 MGTD Ben Cordsen, sculptart@aol.com, was gearing up to recast steering wheels. I believe that he can duplicate the marbled plastic grip. Other sources are: Automotive Specialties 857 Nine Times RD. Pickens, SC 29671 800-676-1928 Bill Peters 41 Vassar Pl. Rockville Centre NY 11570 516-766-8397 Dennis Crooks Quality Restorations Inc. Poway, CA 92064 858-271-7374 I have not used any of these other steering wheel restorers. I have seen Dennis Crooks work, and it looks very good. John Seim Irvine, CA On Sep 21, 2009, at 6:06 PM, dgroue2512 wrote: > where can I get a pearl kind of color steering wheel for my 1950 TD > recondition.Thanks DON _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 27 14:55:07 2009 From: "oliver" To: "T series list" Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 15:32:46 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] spark plug wires hi, all. purchased new spark plug wires (plus cap, rotor, and petronix). looks pretty easy to replace the existing wires, but was wondering if anyone had the preferred lengths (measurements) and if there are any tricks or traps i should know about. this is my first foray into the "build it yourself" spark plug wires; i've read the directions and am pretty sure I know how to do it. thanks! _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 28 08:45:26 2009 From: Bob Howard To: sumton@sbcglobal.net Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 10:12:40 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] spark plug wires Hi Oliver, I checked through the T-Register CD looking for measurements without success. My suggestion is to remove one at a time, measure the original and cut the new one to same length allowing for any loss where insulation is cut away, unless the original is too short in which case you would want to make the new wire an inch or two longer. Some mark the spark plug connector with Roman numerals, I II III IIII, with a triangular file. It's inconspicuous, yet handy to have them marked. Those little copper washers over which you spread the wires become invisible when dropped on the floor. Have a clean surface under your working area and plenty of light. Finger snug is tight enough for the connections into the cap and for the screws in spark plug connections. The bakelite will crack if the connections are over tightened. Bob On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 15:32:46 -0500 "oliver" writes: > hi, all. > > purchased new spark plug wires (plus cap, rotor, and petronix). > > looks pretty easy to replace the existing wires, but was wondering > if anyone > had the preferred lengths (measurements) and if there are any tricks > or traps > i should know about. this is my first foray into the "build it > yourself" > spark plug wires; i've read the directions and am pretty sure I know > how to do > it. > > thanks! ____________________________________________________________ House Rescue Bill Passed $133,000 mortgage under $679/mo. Compare rates and save! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=p6rLymS8h7QLuG9VBxPPDQAAJ1AZtbtuTpx5SVCdlh4YnsjUAAQAAAAFAAAAACvPhz4AAAMqAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaTcQAAAAA= _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 28 09:31:41 2009 From: "Clive Sherriff" To: , "Bob Howard" Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 16:29:15 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] spark plug wires I know suitable lengths for the spark plug leads, and I know the Plug gap but I can't find anywhere the specified ideal width (or diameter - is it round? or perhaps oval?) of the spark itself. Surely someone on the list will know!!! Clive Oxford UK ================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Howard" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 3:12 PM Subject: Re: [Mg-t] spark plug wires > Hi Oliver, > I checked through the T-Register CD looking for measurements without > success. > My suggestion is to remove one at a time, measure the original and cut > the new one to same length allowing for any loss where insulation is cut > away, unless the original is too short in which case you would want to > make the new wire an inch or two longer. > Some mark the spark plug connector with Roman numerals, I II III IIII, > with a triangular file. It's inconspicuous, yet handy to have them > marked. > Those little copper washers over which you spread the wires become > invisible when dropped on the floor. Have a clean surface under your > working area and plenty of light. > Finger snug is tight enough for the connections into the cap and for > the screws in spark plug connections. The bakelite will crack if the > connections are over tightened. > Bob > > > On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 15:32:46 -0500 "oliver" > writes: >> hi, all. >> >> purchased new spark plug wires (plus cap, rotor, and petronix). >> >> looks pretty easy to replace the existing wires, but was wondering >> if anyone >> had the preferred lengths (measurements) and if there are any tricks >> or traps >> i should know about. this is my first foray into the "build it >> yourself" >> spark plug wires; i've read the directions and am pretty sure I know >> how to do >> it. >> >> thanks! > ____________________________________________________________ > House Rescue Bill Passed > $133,000 mortgage under $679/mo. Compare rates and save! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=p6rLymS8h7QLuG9VBxPPDQAAJ1AZtbtuTpx5SVCdlh4YnsjUAAQAAAAFAAAAACvPhz4AAAMqAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaTcQAAAAA= > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 28 15:48:40 2009 From: "Lew Palmer" To: "'oliver'" , "'T series list'" Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 16:53:14 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] spark plug wires It occurs to me that the length of the wires is, to some extent, dependent on the orientation of the distributor. I have found that with the flat side facing forward, not only does the tach reduction box miss the distributor hot lead if it drops down, but the wires run to the spark plugs with the minimum length and generally do not cross each other. Cheers, Lew Palmer -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 3:33 PM To: T series list Subject: [Mg-t] spark plug wires hi, all. purchased new spark plug wires (plus cap, rotor, and petronix). looks pretty easy to replace the existing wires, but was wondering if anyone had the preferred lengths (measurements) and if there are any tricks or traps i should know about. this is my first foray into the "build it yourself" spark plug wires; i've read the directions and am pretty sure I know how to do it. thanks! Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 29 15:32:09 2009 From: "Carr&Edwards" To: "Listserve T-series" Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 17:28:01 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] 3rd brake light For years I've been looking for something brighter than my TD's stock taillights/turn signals, and at the Rhinebeck (NY) show this past May I finally found what I wanted -- weatherproof, inconspicuous when off, very noticeable when on. The BrakeLighter is a long, thin LED bar that can be mounted inside or out, positive or negative ground, for cars with or without turn signals; it's available in both 6 volt and 12 volt versions. I bought the 12-volt version and (at the seller's direction) downloaded the 6v installation instructions from the website and used them (the instructions packed with the 12v version are only for negative ground). A pair of brackets custom-made from aluminum, like badge-bar clips used upside-down, let us hang the light bar from the over-the-tire luggage rack. The TD has a trailer hitch, so we just attached a plug to the BrakeLighter wires and connected it to the trailer-light plug (don't need a 3rd light if we're pulling the trailer--it has big lights). See the sellers' website -- jandlenterprise.com -- for details. The light is suitable for outside mount, although their ads do not say so. (If you want a photo of our set-up, contact me off-list.) No financial interest, just a happy customer--------- Sarah Carr TD3942EXLU in PA _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 29 16:17:11 2009 From: "Stuart C. Keen, Jr." To: MG Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:17:02 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] Brake Lub I am in the process of rebuilding the rear brakes of my MG TD. Everything is clean now. What type of lub do I use for the area where the wheel cylinder assembly (Moss 180-630) slides up and down? Should I use brake grease, silicone, oil or leave it dry. My concern is that if lubed, then it could attract dirt and cause problems in the future. I find nothing in the workshop manual pertaining to lubricating this part. Also, I find that after I clean the drums with brake cleaner, they tend to rust. Should I smear a light coat of oil on the areas not contacted by the brake shoes? How to prevent rust? Thanks for your help, one and all. Stu Keen 1951 MGTD Mark II _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 29 17:31:29 2009 From: "Lew Palmer" To: "'Stuart C. Keen, Jr.'" , "'MG'" Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:35:12 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Brake Lub Stu, I've never lubed that area. Regarding rust, clean and paint the exposed areas of the drum, but not the braking surface. That area is best kept rust free by regular use of the car. Cheers, Lew Palmer -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart C. Keen, Jr. Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 5:17 PM To: MG Subject: [Mg-t] Brake Lub I am in the process of rebuilding the rear brakes of my MG TD. Everything is clean now. What type of lub do I use for the area where the wheel cylinder assembly (Moss 180-630) slides up and down? Should I use brake grease, silicone, oil or leave it dry. My concern is that if lubed, then it could attract dirt and cause problems in the future. I find nothing in the workshop manual pertaining to lubricating this part. Also, I find that after I clean the drums with brake cleaner, they tend to rust. Should I smear a light coat of oil on the areas not contacted by the brake shoes? How to prevent rust? Thanks for your help, one and all. Stu Keen 1951 MGTD Mark II Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 29 23:35:18 2009 From: "John Quilter" To: "MG T List" Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 22:35:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Brake Lub I just painted the outside of my drums with black paint. Never did burn off in 30 years, maybe I'm just driving too slow! John F. Quilter Brisbane, California 1951 TD ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stuart C. Keen, Jr." To: "MG" Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 3:17 PM Subject: [Mg-t] Brake Lub >I am in the process of rebuilding the rear brakes of my MG TD. Everything >is > clean now. What type of lub do I use for the area where the wheel cylinder > assembly (Moss 180-630) slides up and down? Should I use brake grease, > silicone, oil or leave it dry. My concern is that if lubed, then it could > attract dirt and cause problems in the future. I find nothing in the > workshop manual pertaining to lubricating this part. > > Also, I find that after I clean the drums with brake cleaner, they tend to > rust. Should I smear a light coat of oil on the areas not contacted by the > brake shoes? How to prevent rust? > > Thanks for your help, one and all. > > Stu Keen > 1951 MGTD Mark II > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mg-t@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive