Subject: [Mg-t] Engine internals

From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 11:55:47 -0500 (EST)

Removing the oil pan found bottom 2" full of thick gunk and no oil -  
probably where most of oil problems were originating.
 
The oil suction dip tube and screen were removed and found blocked with red 
 silicone gasketing material.
 
1.  All is cleaned up.  But when the screen cup is reinstalled  should the 
lip at the top have a rubber o-ring to seal it from the suction dome  and 
minimize vibration?
 
2.  The main journal bearing original  is             52mm
           current  main bearing +.010"  ~         +0.254mm
            _____________________________________
            combined                                            51.746mm
 
    Current Crank main  dia                                51.72
    Yielding Diametric  clearance                         0.026  mm
 
Acceptable is 0.020 to 0.075mm according to Horst Schach
 
here is where the problem starts - the mains show a little minor wear that  
can be dressed up with polishing -so should I just polish and install new 
same  size +0.010" main bearing or choose to grind and resize for new +0.020" 
main  bearings??
 
3.    The connecting rod bearings similar problem but  more delicate 
        Original                                            45  mm
        Current rod bearing  +0.030"  ~         0.762  mm
        ___________________________________________
        Combined                                        44.238  mm
        Current crank rod  dia                        44.14
        Yielding Diametric  clearance            0.098  mm

Acceptable is 0.11 to 0.056mm according to Horst Schach
 
would you recommend just polishing or installing bigger +0.040 rod  bearings
 
4.  Has anyone used the Volvo seal solution for the front with  success??
 
5.  Since I am short on funds and looking for work - I do not want to  do 
the rear screw Archimedes seal - but it shows no signs of leaking after  
12,000 miles - so I plan to leave it alone unless someone can recommend a cheap  
solution that will improve the odds that I will not have leaks.
 
Thanks everyone that has responded on my other problems.
 
MIchael Balahutrak
53 TD engine #10525
Houston, TX
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2013 13:46:52 GMT

There are those who refuse to use detergent oils, presumably because the TDs
were not filled with them at Abingdon. The sludge and asphalt found in the
sumps can usually be attributed to this obsolete oil. That the screen was
blocked with red silicone does not speak well of the engine rebuilder.
  Rubber o ring might be useful. I've never seen it done, though, and I don't
think of vibration there being a problem.
  I would stay with the 010 mains. Removing metal is something I prefer to
avoid.
  Rod journals are a more difficult decision. You have measured them. I would
try Plastigage too, just to check the measurements.
 My concern is that XPAG cranks are prone to cracking, and the most vulnerable
place is at rod journals. The cause is thought to be tight radius. My
preference is, again, to avoid removing metal, especially here, as the radius
can't easily be relieved, to use 20-50 oil, and to watch its temperature. I am
interested to read other thoughts on this question.
  I recommend having the crankshaft checked for cracks before you invest more
effort. The "ring" test is not sufficient for these-- mine rang perfectly with
its visible crack at #2 rod.
  Replacement of front seal is easy. I forget now whose seal I used, but it's
quick, cheap, easy and effective.
  I stuck with original type of rear seal. It does drip, perhaps a
quarter-size drip at the end of a long run. That's more than some that have
the lip seal conversion and less(a lot less) than some that have it.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Mg-t] Engine internals
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 11:55:47 -0500 (EST)

5.  Since I am short on funds and looking for work - I do not want to  do
the rear screw Archimedes seal - but it shows no signs of leaking after
12,000 miles - so I plan to leave it alone unless someone can recommend a
cheap
solution that will improve the odds that I will not have leaks.

MIchael Balahutrak
53 TD engine #10525
Houston, TX

[email-masked]

[email-masked]