Subject: Re: [Mg-t] oil

From: Tuck Southworth <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 10:56:07 -0400

Rick,
You will receive many opinions as this subject has been much discussed on the
forum over the years.  Heres my 2c's
I agree that you should use 90 hypoid for the steering rack, gearbox and diff.
Several years ago I switched over to a synthetic for the gearbox as I was led
to believe it would be better for an aging set of gears.  It does seem to
shift smoother.

I'll leave the break-in oils to others who know better but I would include a
zinc additive such as found in the Lucus' break in oils.

For normal everyday engine oil I use Valvoline VR1 20/50.  It has a high zinc
formula which is much needed in our pushrod engines.  I think they still
produce two versions, a road and race formula.

Tuck

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 17, 2013, at 7:30 AM, Richard Lindsay <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> Hello Friends,
>
> I'm sure oil threads cause as much hate-n-discontent here as on any other
> List, so I write with a degree of trepidation.  Actually, I seek only your
> opinion, not science.  Please share yours.
>
> As I ponder the reassembly if my '53 TD2, I am considering fluids.  For the
> rack, gearbox and diff, I believe the consensus is #90 hypoid oil.  I've
> always found that an interesting way to say "oil with a very high film tear
> strength suitable for hypoid gear mating."  Redline is probably my
> brand-of-choice but I'm open to suggestion.
> ar
> Engine oil is another matter all together.  Since this will be a full
> rebuild with new bearings and new rings in freshly honed cylinders, I need
> an oil that will lubricate properly and promote bedding-in.
>
> I live in a climate where the temperature extremes are 50F-90F, for any day
> when the car might be used.  And I believe the workshop manual recommends
> straight 30-weight oil.  For this temperature range, that sounds about
> right.  In later M.G.s I've always used Castrol GTX (20w50).
>
> For the break-in / bedding-in period, would you use straight #30 mineral
> oil?  Detergent or non-detergent?And after the break-in period, the same
> specification (fresh) oil?
>
> Sharing your opinions and experiences would be appreciated.  Thank you.
>
> -rick
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---

From: Ted Jackson <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:10:29 -0400

FWIW in my 1951 MGTD I use Redline MT90 in the gearbox, Redline 75W90 in 
the differential, and I add a can of GM EOS part # 992869 with every oil 
change, where I use Castrol 20W50 whenever I find it on sale. In the 
steering rack I use Motomaster 80W90 Extreme Pressure Gear Oil. 
(Canadian Tire)

I'm pasting in an article from the Ontario MG T Register where Frank 
Mount, a noted MGT racer, made a recommendation which I follow.

Like Tuck I'll leave engine rebuilds/break-in for the experts.

Ted Jackson

  ZDDT Oil Additive

<http://www.omgtr.ca/technical/ZDDT%20Oil%20Additive/supplement.jpg>There has 
been much discussion on the web about the fact that the latest oil 
formulations have reduced, or eliminated, their ZDDT and Phosphorus 
content. There are still specialty oils available which have ZDDT levels 
at 1200ppm or above. However modern oils, even our beloved Castrol 
20W50, fall far below this mark.

Frank Mount advises me that he uses one can (500ml) of AC Delco Engine 
Oil Supplement with each oil change. AC Delco EOS contains 6221ppm of 
ZDDT and 5762ppm of Phosphorus. It is readily available at GM 
dealerships and retails for $8.20. On November 20, 2010 I bought 3 cans 
at City Buick and was given a volume discount to $6.50 per can!

I, for what that's worth, am following Frank's advice.

AC Delco Engine Oil Supplement is available at GM dealers as Part # 992869

For a treatise on how ZDDP works, (and what ZDDP stands for!) I suggest 
that you look at http://www.sherbournemews.com/oil.pdf.

Ted Jackson

> zinc additive such as found in the Lucus' break in oils.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of ted.vcf]
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From: Mike E <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:55:55 -0400

I have no argument with using 90 weight hypoid in the steering rack, but
according to one of Richard Knudsen's publications, the reason oil was used in
the steering rack was because grease would harden.  Today you can buy grease
that doesn't harden and which, according to Knudsen, you can use in your
steering rack.  This saves you from having to have a specially modified ,
oil-filled grease gun in your garage.  The other benefit is that it won't all
run out if there's a tear in your rack boots, leaving the rack dry.  Another
fellow told me he has always used a slurry of gear oil and grease.  It's worth
exploring further and making your own decision.

That said, I have always used gear oil, and right now my steering rack is
properly filled with oil - last time it was in the shop for another issue, I
had the rack boots replaced.  Being a British specialty shop, they have an
oil-filled grease gun on hand.
You'll hear lots of talk about engine oil and zinc (ZDDP), and some people are
quite passionate about it.  I use plain old 10W 30 (I buy Castrol, but any
brand name should work), which was recommended to me by my mechanic, who has
30+ years experience with British cars.  Since the engine was rebuilt
including a new camshaft and tappets several years ago (after I dropped a
valve!), everything appears to be fine.

The intertubes (and various lists) are abound with people who will insist that
using modern oil will lead to catastrophic wear, and just as many who say the
concern is grossly overblown.  I'm not claiming any expertise, but I've done
my own research, read reports (that are available online), looked at who is
saying what and why, and decided that I would not be overly concerned about
the amount of ZDDP in my oil.

-Mike

> From: [email-masked]
> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 10:56:07 -0400
> To: [email-masked]
> CC: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] oil
>
> Rick,
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/[email-masked]
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