Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull

From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500

Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main
on the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy
for this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to
fit some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end is
tight and there are no other real issues here.
 
Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
 
Many thanks,
Bill
______________________________________________

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: John Seim <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 13:56:42 -0700

Just make sure that the rear main cork gasket fits inside the groove on the
rear main cap.
No protrusions. No gasket cement used to hold the cork in the groove.
Apply an amount of silicone gasket maker where the cork seal mates with the
oil pan gaskets.
That's the simple way.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 12, 2013, at 1:33 PM, <[email-masked]> wrote:

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From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 23:50:00 GMT

If the leak is really bad, it indicates probable wear on the scroll and the
little shield.
  If one can tolerate quarter to half-dollar drip spots, the original seal
will do.
  In our club, six or eight owners have tried the improved seal. Half are
happy and half are not. I used the original seal type, and have no regrets.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500

Many thanks,
Bill

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 21:27:58 -0500 s=q20121106; t=1379039282; bh=tzWSifsdnwguHRLOXmFT/YoA8TmBYcmvFAe457hkm4I=; h=Received:Received:To:From:Subject:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=CENsEuKTWJ6UQZMZfH7lhh88s7Q+FGwmDVewL+nvUerbkMq6Dq3MZaVcXza3A3wLK y2mvZej0zpejbkD2b9GKeYLABQGIvcIc9tlpmSwVGlQn+bh3Jov3wawzWAuRU1px+5 JuhCTTbP9umTqIEYGqZASp2wRKU8GY7Ha740AXcZ573o/9u97Ob5Czi7Lx09iogEcd IxORXejgKK4szD7r0iCDRTcC8WmEIsFfb8P7MT/RGCDITPoyWjGLsXHzMFyy7++Xi1 hEGOBi/6D14WxPx+D2ABnla6ytqKS4pQts922ItWpnroKjY6J5xgWAPEV24DZOBcKI RIArIV6U3ECiA==

You can get good results with a process / procedure using JB Weld to build the worn area up to match the Archimedes screw.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

---------- Original Message ----------
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500

Many thanks,
Bill

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 11:59:31 GMT

That is, to me, a bad leak. A Moss improved seal might be the answer for
you.
  Our rear seals rely on a rather precise fitting of seal to crank to scroll
to scraper. Ours are thee main bearing crankshafts, so there is a slight
tendency to wobble. When the rear bearing wears, the wobble increases, and the
movement wears scraper and scroll. Some have found, also, that the crankshaft
centerline is slightly misaligned with the seal.
   My suggestion(s) remove the sump and have a look. You may find the the cork
was cut short, or the little tabs on the gasket were cut off at its
installation. Shake the crankshaft. It's not likely that you will feel any
movement, but if you do, it changes the approach.
    If you see an issue with installation of the seal, just clean it up and
replace; they worked well for thousands of engines for many years and miles.
   If the crank is loose, or oil pressure has been dismal, its time for main
bearings, which is engine out of car. That would give opportunity to measure
the engine and for machine shop to line hone if necessary. It would be
opportunity for the Moss seal too.
    Some have had great success with them, others not. I suspect that the
engine has to be in good order for any seal to work properly, but that the
Moss seal might be a bit more forgiving. Getting the scroll and scraper right
is something to do in either choice.
   Whatever, do remember to keep the jiggling split pin loose in the drain
hole. I have seen a few removed and, in one car, the hole filled.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: WBEECH <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 20:13:14 -0500

Parked for 20 min, puddle is 6" in diameter.   At idle it almost flows, at
higher revs it slows noticeably.

By "Improved Seal" are you referring to the $235.00 kit sold by Moss?

Thanks,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

little shield.
will do.
> on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/[email-masked]
______________________________________________

[email-masked]

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From: John Seim <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 05:35:47 -0700

You can do that, but that requires the engine out of the car, to apply JB-Weld
to the oil thrower cap.
In the car, that cap is on the other side of the crankshaft.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 12, 2013, at 7:27 PM, [email-masked] wrote:

> You can get good results with a process / procedure using JB Weld to build
the worn area up to match the Archimedes screw.

[email-masked]

---

From: Ron Olds <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 11:05:09 +0000

I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and installing the
Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is coming
from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the crankshaft
installed?

Ronald Olds
Sales Manager
Plasser American Corporation
PO Box 5464
2001 Myers Road
Chesapeake, VA 23324-0464
 
Phone  (757) 543-3526
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-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] On
Behalf Of [email-masked]
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 4:34 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull

Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main on
the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy for
this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to fit
some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end is tight
and there are no other real issues here.

Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource, on-line,
to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?

Many thanks,
Bill

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/[email-masked]
______________________________________________

[email-masked]

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From: BOB GRUNAU <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 09:56:58 -0400 FILETIME=[3BEF6B50:01CEB476]

Ron,
Personally, I would pull the engine. Much easier to work on the bench then
inside the car trying to remove flywheel, seal up rear main and re-install
the sump.
.
Yes the flywheel can come off, after removing sump, clutch, flywheel bolts
and two alignment pins. Might be easier to remove pins if rear main cap is
off and a drift can be used to access the two tapered pins to tap them
backwards.

Small leak?? maybe live with it??
Bob, Canada
-

Thank you everyone for your input. I thought there wasn't room on the back
of
the engine casting for the flywheel to come off the crankshaft.  From
everyone's input it can be removed.  I need to pull the transmission to get
a
better idea of what is going on.

Ronald Olds

I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and installing
the
Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is coming
from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the
crankshaft
installed?

Ronald Olds
_

[email-masked]