From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Mon Sep 1 10:45:33 2008 From: "Carl Floyd" To: "James J." , , Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 12:44:22 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] So that we can all stay on the same page - here is I use the Buick 300 water pump because it angles down to tuck under the alternator. http://www.britishv8.org/MG/CarlFloyd/CarlFloyd-C.jpg As for other pulleys, I believe the one that I use came from a big block Chevy. Bolt circle is 1 3/4". Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barrie Robinson" To: "James J." ; Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 1:18 PM Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] So that we can all stay on the same page - here is what I sent Barrie today > James, > > My pulley came with engine (from RPi in the UK). The water pump > made for me is 3" back to front as against the 4" one I had on the > engine. I believe it was made from a Buick water pump and I sent > neither my own pump or the bolt pattern - they just made it!!!!. My > engine chap told me that other pulleys have same bolt holes and I > seem to remember he mentioned Volvo (???) > > > > At 02:37 PM 8/30/2008, James J. wrote: >>All, >>Is this new pump shorter than a Buick 300 A/C pump? If so, by how much? >> >>Also, do the Rover/Buick pulleys share the same bolt pattern as any >>other big name engine? I'm curious as to where folks are getting >>different sized pulleys. >> >>James J. >> >>GrayTesla@aol.com wrote: >> > <> > the same. It was said that the pulley remains the same - this is NOT >> > the same as the plane.>> >> > >> > Barrie, the pictures show that the water pump pulley DOES NOT remain >> > the >> > same. That difference is what affords the shortened pump to not >> protrude, yet have >> > the drive portion, the groove, stay aligned. >> > >> > No, I am not a MG owner and if my asking question here is >> uncomfortable for >> > some I apologize. If as a non-MG 215 owner I am on the wrong >> forum please let >> > me know. >> > >> > Barrie, I hope my note (For the Sake of Clarity) has shed light >> on why there >> > was confusion for some of us. Now, I say it here for the third >> time: you are >> > to be commended for this wonderful innovation -- HOWEVER, the words you >> > original wrote obviously caused some confusion. There is not harm >> in that and no >> > blame being place. People simply wish to understand the details. >> You may not be as >> > directly involved with the actual mechanics as some of us but questions >> > of >> > pulleys and plane alignment can be significant matters. >> > >> > Again, no one is trying to disparage you. Please afford those of >> us who read >> > your note literally the same curtesy. I'll now go quietly into >> that dark night. >> > >> > Darius >>_______________________________________________ >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >>Mgb-v8 mailing list >> >>You are subscribed as barrie@look.ca >> >>Mgb-v8@autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 >> >>No virus found in this incoming message. >>Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com >>Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.13/1642 - Release Date: >>8/29/2008 6:12 PM > > Regards > Barrie > > Barrie Robinson > (705) 721-9060 > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm > http://www.britcot.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgb-v8 mailing list > > You are subscribed as cmfloyd@chartertn.net > > Mgb-v8@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Sun Sep 7 10:30:58 2008 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2008 12:30:19 -0400 Subject: [Mgb-v8] Gear box oil I cannot find my notes so I have to ask the question.... Do I use transmission oil (ATF) in my Rover SD1 gearbox? Any recommendations? My gear changes seem to be are not so slick now and I fear I may have been leaking - although there are no drips under the car when parked for days Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Mon Sep 8 02:05:31 2008 From: "Paul Hunt" To: , "Barrie Robinson" Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 08:40:48 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Gear box oil According to the Haynes for my old SD1 it is Castrol Hypoy B75 SAE75 for a refill or Castrol Hypoy Light SAE80 for a topup, or equivalent, i.e. gear oil. ATF e.g. Castrol TQF was used in the auto box. The factory V8 also uses gear oil in the gearbox whereas the 4-cylinder uses engine oil of course. ATF is recommended by some for the 4-cylinder gearbox, sometimes it is said to clear OD problems by acting as a cleaning agent, but I would never use that or engine oil in the gearbox of my V8 because of its higher torque. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Do I use transmission oil (ATF) in my Rover SD1 gearbox? Any recommendations? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Mon Sep 8 06:23:04 2008 From: Paul Root To: "Paul Hunt" Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 07:22:54 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Gear box oil I used ATF in my TR7 5-speed. My second one. The first one Fragged on I-5 in the middle of Orange County. My parts guy showed me the tiny hole that the gear oil had to go through the oil pump of that thing. I don't know how much of the guts are shared between the transmissions. On Sep 8, 2008, at 2:40 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > According to the Haynes for my old SD1 it is Castrol Hypoy B75 SAE75 > for a > refill or Castrol Hypoy Light SAE80 for a topup, or equivalent, i.e. > gear oil. > ATF e.g. Castrol TQF was used in the auto box. The factory V8 also > uses gear > oil in the gearbox whereas the 4-cylinder uses engine oil of > course. ATF is > recommended by some for the 4-cylinder gearbox, sometimes it is said > to clear > OD problems by acting as a cleaning agent, but I would never use > that or > engine oil in the gearbox of my V8 because of its higher torque. > > PaulH. > ----- Original Message ----- > Do I use transmission oil (ATF) in my Rover SD1 gearbox? > Any recommendations? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgb-v8 mailing list > > You are subscribed as ptrmgb@gmail.com > > Mgb-v8@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Mon Sep 8 11:24:42 2008 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 09:17:05 -0400 Subject: [Mgb-v8] Gearbox oil As usual I got lots of excellent advice on my gearbox oil question. Seems ATF is the most popular but there are others as good and some claimed to be better. Now I have to choose! Thanks to all who responded -you are very much appreciated. Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Mon Sep 8 15:32:06 2008 From: cgmoog@attglobal.net To: Barrie Robinson Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 17:24:12 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Gearbox oil My understanding was ATF. In all manual gearboxes I have that require AFT I run Pennzoil (or Quakerstate) Sychromesh (sp?) gear oil. Slightly thicker than AFT, synthetic base stock with additives for manual transmissions. Designed to meet GM requirements when they had problems with their Getrag in the Fiero. I've seen it recommended on Mustang lists, Merkur lists (when T5 is swapped in). I run it in my Mustang (T5) and my manual Lincoln (Getrag) with good results. Barrie Robinson wrote: > As usual I got lots of excellent advice on my gearbox oil > question. Seems ATF is the most popular but there are others as > good and some claimed to be better. Now I have to choose! > > Thanks to all who responded -you are very much appreciated. > > Regards > Barrie > > Barrie Robinson > (705) 721-9060 > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm > http://www.britcot.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgb-v8 mailing list > > You are subscribed as cgmoog@attglobal.net > > Mgb-v8@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Tue Sep 9 12:06:45 2008 From: "The Rays" To: "MG-V8 List" Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 14:00:04 -0400 Subject: [Mgb-v8] Alternator Questions After driving my V8-B for a 50 miles or more, it begins to sputter as though it might be loosing fuel pressure and starving for gas. I have checked the fuel flow and dont see any change in the amount of fuel in fuel filter bowl. I also have to let it sit until it cools down before it will re-start. I can connect a booster battery and it will fire up without any drag. I have suspicion that my alternator may not be charging as it should. I have taken several readings using my multi-meter, getting different readings each time. All this has left me very confused. I am hoping someone out there can help me figure out what mat be happening. First I took a reading from the third terminal down on the left side front row of the fuse panel. I chose this spot because I have my voltmeter connected to the brown/white wire there. The reading I got was 11.4 volts. My second reading was taken at the positive & negative terminals of the coil where I got 7.4 volts. The third reading, which was .08 volts, came from output terminal of the alternator. One a final note, the voltmeter never reads past the red line, which I assume is an indicator that the alternator is below 12 volts. Any help in solving my problem will be greatly appreciated. Jim Ray 1980 MGB V8/T35 Automatic _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Tue Sep 9 13:19:07 2008 From: "Smit, Theo" To: "The Rays" , "MG-V8 List" Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 13:18:48 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Alternator Questions The voltage at the fuse panel and at the alternator output (which should be at least a 10 gauge wire, probably connected to a large stud on the back or side of the alternator) should be the same. With the engine off, it should be in the range of 12 to 12.6 volts. If it's below 11.8 volts then your battery needs charging; if it's 10 volts or below then your battery is damaged and should be replaced. With the engine on (and having blipped the throttle so as to cause the alternator to kick in) the voltage at the battery terminal, the fuse panel, and the alternator output stud should all be at least 13.2 up to about 15 volts. If it's less than 13.2 volts then your alternator isn't charging. If the voltage isn't the same (or within 0.1 volts) in those three places then you have a bad ground or power connection in the system. If the alternator isn't charging then it's either that the alternator has worn brushes (if over 100,000 miles on the alt, this is a good place to start), or the diodes are blown, or the regulator is bad or disconnected(a good thing to check if the regulator isn't solid state and/or an integral part of the alternator), or it's simply not hooked up right. Check that a wire from the ignition 12V circuit is connected to the alternator (Japanese alternators have a terminal labeled "IG" for that purpose), and that it does go to 12 volts when the ignition is switched on. The voltage at the coil terminals is generally not 12 volts, so whatever you measure there is not indicative of the alternator condition. Good luck, Theo -----Original Message----- Any help in solving my problem will be greatly appreciated. Jim Ray 1980 MGB V8/T35 Automatic Mgb-v8 mailing list You are subscribed as theo.smit@dynastream.com Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Wed Sep 10 02:33:54 2008 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Smit, Theo" , "The Rays" Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 09:05:36 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Alternator Questions All MGB alternators had the output and warning light connections as spades, some upgrades to more recent and higher output alternators do have threaded studs. If the engine has just been switched off then the battery voltage will still be registering close to alternator voltage, it will take a few moments to settle to its 'normal' voltage. A battery may show 12v plus but still be in need of charging or just worn out, it is the voltage at the posts *when cranking* that is a good indication of this if it is below 10v. If a battery off-load shows less than 12v it is either *very* discharged or has a bad cell. Normally the engine will have to be revved to 900rpm or so to start the alternator charging, and once started it should keep charging until the revs drop below 600rpm or so. Note this is with original alternator pulleys, if you have a modification with a different sized pulley the rpms may be higher or lower than this. Original alternators should charge i.e. show greater than 13v at idle (once revved over 900rpm), but not at their full rate of current or voltage. More modern and more powerful alternators will charge at closer to their full rate at idle. For alternators the maximum voltage should be in the range of 14.3v to 14.7v. Dynamos could charge up to 15.5v depending on ambient temperature. Alternators at the lower end of the range *may not* fully recharge a battery that has been partially discharged, at one time Mercedes were having to select voltage regulators that gave voltages at the higher end because of this. The ignition or charge warning light should glow when you first turn on the ignition, and when the engine has been started and revved over 900 rpm should go out. The current from the warning light acts as a 'pump primer' to the alternator and is needed to start it charging. Without the light the engine may have to be revved to around 3000rpm before it starts charging, but then will charge as normal down to about 600rpm. If the light stays on when the engine is revving the alternator isn't charging. You will only see 12v on this wire at the alternator with the ignition on *if it is disconnected* from the IND terminal. When connected it is close to earth or ground and will show close to zero volts. At various times MGBs had five, four, three or two wires at the alternator. The four wire alternators were with the external regulator in 1968 only. Five wire were used from 69 to 71, but two of the wires were brown/yellow and just linked two terminals on the alternator. Of the other three one was a standard gauge brown/yellow from the warning light, and two brown wires. One of these was a heavy gauge wire and was the output wire. The other was standard gauge and was wired to the solenoid the same as the output wire, but was the voltage sensing wire for the voltage regulator. In 1972 the alternators reverted to internal sensing and hence only needed the heavy gauge output wire and the standard gauge warning light wire, but the harnesses (except possibly in 1972) still seem to have the extra standard gauge brown, which is now acting as an additional output wire. In 1977 two *heavy gauge* brown output wires were used for reduced volt-drop with the higher output alternator and higher current loads. Originally chrome bumper MGBs ran the coils at 12v, rubber bumper at 6v. However you will only see 6v at the +ve terminal if the points or trigger are closed and the coil is drawing current, which won't be the case with some types of electronic trigger with the engine stopped no matter where the crank has been turned to. At all other times (with the ignition on) you will see battery/alternator voltage. For some reason many people converting the ignition or engine do away with this 6v system, which is a retrograde step as it boosts coil voltage while cranking for easier starting. With a 12v coil and ignition system you will see battery/alternator voltage at the coil +ve terminal. PaulH. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Wed Sep 10 08:53:32 2008 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 10:53:20 -0400 Subject: [Mgb-v8] SD1 gearbox oil pump I looked in the archives and found my question in the mode "Can you change the oil pump bits in the SD1 gearbox easily or do you have to drop the box?" But I cannot fins any answers. What does oil pump bits change entail? I am having no trouble but thought I would be pro-active as heavens knows how many miles my box did previously to my ownership. Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Wed Sep 10 19:14:11 2008 From: "James J." To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 21:13:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgb-v8] Axle Mods and the phone book..... All, I have a Dana 44 axle (already the right width) that I'm putting in my B. It's one of the old Postal Jeep axles with some huge bolt pattern on it. Shy of ordering custom axles from Moser or some other company, who would I look to in the local Yellow Pages to turn down the hub and re-drill for a Chevy or Ford 5-lug pattern. My shop only does engine work. I've heard people talk about getting "truck shops" to do the work, but I don't think I'm going to find that exact listing in the phone book. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Thu Sep 11 02:08:25 2008 From: "Paul Hunt" To: , "Barrie Robinson" Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 09:03:53 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] SD1 gearbox oil pump According to my Haynes the oil pump is at the back of the gearbox below and slightly forward of the output flange. The manual shows the oil pump being removed only after the rear cover has been removed, which looks like it can only be done after removal of the remote control housing, output flange, speedo drive, and '5th gear selector spool locating boss'. Pity it doesn't give an output pressure for the pump, or you could put your mind at rest. Or alternatively start planning a strip-down. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: Barrie Robinson To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 3:53 PM Subject: [Mgb-v8] SD1 gearbox oil pump I looked in the archives and found my question in the mode "Can you change the oil pump bits in the SD1 gearbox easily or do you have to drop the box?" But I cannot fins any answers. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Thu Sep 11 02:08:33 2008 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "The Rays" , "MG-V8 List" Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 08:50:44 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Alternator Questions You can forget fuel at this stage, the voltages at the fusebox indicate it is not charging, so you are running out of sparks, not fuel. The voltages at the coil should be ignored as they vary according to what type of ignition system and coil is fitted. The voltage at the alternator indicates it isn't even connected, if there were an internal problem you should at least see battery voltage there. Does the ignition warning light glow when you turn on the ignition? If you read that voltage with the engine stopped then it could just be the heavy gauge output wire disconnected between there and the battery cable stud at the solenoid. Measure it again with the engine running, and the voltage on the smaller brown/yellow wire at the alternator. If you see 0v or 14.5v on both then both wires are disconnected, and possibly the alternator is faulty if you see 0v. If you see 14.5v on the output wire but battery voltage on the brown/yellow then just the output wire is disconnected and the alternator itself looks to be OK. Remember a wire can be electrically disconnected due to corrosion even though it is physically connected, so remove the connections at both alternator and solenoid and clean them up before reassembling with Waxoyl or copper grease. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I have suspicion that my alternator may not be charging as it should. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Thu Sep 11 06:24:50 2008 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "V8 list" , , Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 13:02:07 +0100 Subject: [Mgb-v8] Handbrake I've long had a section on Brakes including the handbrake on my website (http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_brakesframe.htm). In 2007 someone wrote to me saying if the levers inside the drum that the handbrake cable are attached to are fitted to the wrong sides of the car the effect is to make the cable too long and it can't be adjusted. The writer said his were marked with the part numbers (different for left and right) and also L & R. Subsequently I checked my levers and couldn't find any L & R. They did have numbers but I didn't look to see if they were the part numbers or not. In July of this year someone else wrote to me saying he had spotted in one of my photos showing the orientation the shoes that his levers were the other way up to mine, i.e. on the wrong sides, and putting them on the same sides as mine solved a long-standing handbrake problem that neither he nor various other people had been able to resolve. I had never considered this situation before, so I updated the web site with their findings. In the last couple of weeks I have heard from someone else saying he was confused as my photo showed them the other way up to various manuals and web sites, which was something I hadn't noticed before. His were as shown in the manuals, and he was having problems. Putting them as per my photo, i.e. the other way up to the manuals, resolved his problems as well. He also said that his levers didn't have any L & R markings either, and although they had numbers stamped on them it was the same number on both i.e. not the part numbers. On closer investigation the Leyland Workshop Manual and Moss US do show the levers on the wrong sides i.e. upside down, but they only show the Banjo axle. If you look at the Moss Europe site it shows *both* axles, and it shows the Salisbury/tube axle levers as being the other way up to the banjo axle levers. At the moment I am unable to confirm whether on the banjo axle they should be the other way up, but as Moss Europe agrees with the workshop manual I suspect they should be. The upshot is that on the Salisbury/tube axle the short lever that goes through the back-plate must be *under* the long lever, as shown here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/rearbrakes.htm (4th image, this page also shows the correct orientation of shoes and springs, and a new-stock lever that had to be ground down before it would allow the drum to be refitted). Whereas on the banjo axle the short lever must be *above* the long lever. Note that to confuse things even further, the Leyland Parts Catalogue which also shows both axles and has the short lever above for the banjo and below for the Salisbury/tube axle, but has managed to get the left-hand levers shown with the right-hand brake assembly! PaulH. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Thu Sep 11 07:10:30 2008 From: Barrie Robinson To: "Richard Morris" Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 09:05:18 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] SD1 gearbox oil pump Richard, Thank you muchly for your response. Based on your input and advice from all the V8 bodies I am leaving the gear box well alone but will refill with Amsoil ATF. I have no idea why I have chosen Amsoil except that I have heard good things about their other products. When I bought a Maserati Biturbo the 2nd gear was grindy and the dealership put in synthetic because some other manufacturer (Alfa?) had found it cured the problem - and it cured mine! At 02:48 PM 9/10/2008, you wrote: >It requires you to pull off the tail housing of the transmission. You >can do this in the car if you can get to all the bolts. > >But, I seriously doubt that you will get a successful putting the tail >housing back on in the car. > >You honestly need to have the transmission out and in a vertical >position so you can rely on gravity to have the pump shaft engage >properly in the oil pump. Plus, if I remember correctly, I had to take >the rear seal out of the transmission to get the speedo gear back on the >tail shaft. With the rear seal out, you can see the speedo gear's flat >that goes on the shaft's flat spot. This would be impossible to do in >the horizontal (in car) position. > >I used ATF in mine, but I hear putting a small amount of Slick 50 in as >well makes for even better shifts. > >If you aren't having any gearbox problems, I would at most refresh the >ATF. Leave the gear alone. The gearboxes are supposed to be good for >300k miles as long as you don't break it. The bottom drain plug is a >magnetic plug. You can get a general idea of health by draining the >fluid and seeing how much steel is stuck on the magnet. > >Richard > >-----Original Message----- >From: mgb-v8-bounces+richard.morris=cox.net@autox.team.net >[mailto:mgb-v8-bounces+richard.morris=cox.net@autox.team.net] On Behalf >Of Barrie Robinson >Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 9:53 AM >To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net >Subject: [Mgb-v8] SD1 gearbox oil pump > >I looked in the archives and found my question in the mode "Can you >change the oil pump bits in the SD1 gearbox easily or do you have to >drop the box?" But I cannot fins any answers. What does oil pump >bits change entail? I am having no trouble but thought I would be >pro-active as heavens knows how many miles my box did previously to >my ownership. > >Regards >Barrie > >Barrie Robinson >(705) 721-9060 >http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm >http://www.britcot.com >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Mgb-v8 mailing list > >You are subscribed as richard.morris@cox.net > >Mgb-v8@autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Thu Sep 11 09:14:39 2008 From: Greg A Myer To: m1garandusa@verizon.net Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 11:20:23 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Axle Mods and the phone book..... James, I called Moser and then shipped the axles to them. They filled the 5 holes, redrilled the new ones and turned down the register ( hub ) to MGB diameter. They can turn it to match your drums / rotors, just give them the demension. They were quick about it too. Greg ____________________________________________________________ Click here to learn more about nursing jobs. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nEvqkjlsPcPvDy3XUyQz6b0A9pKKtLXakOI8QjvsU46ukbS/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Sat Sep 20 06:04:55 2008 From: "Ron Shellenberger" To: Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 08:07:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgb-v8] Alternator question Jim, Are you saying if a battery voltage is below 10 volts, then it is shot and trying to charge it will not help. I have several cars that don't get driven alot, so I am looking for an easy way to diagnose battery and starting problems. Ron Shellenberger _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Sat Sep 20 07:09:00 2008 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Ron Shellenberger" , Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 13:50:50 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Alternator question That is definitely not the case. If it is well below 10v when cranking it *may* be shot, or just flat, but if only slightly below it is simply be partially discharged, and normal running will bring it back to full charge. However if a battery is repeatedly flattened (either by a trickle load e.g. alarm, ICE etc., or simply not having been run for many months) to below the point at which it will start an engine it *will* lose a bit of capacity each time, and the length of time you can leave it and still restart next time will gradually get shorter. If you regularly leave the cars long periods then a *conditioning* charger will keep the battery topped-up. these sense battery voltage and vary the charge automatically to suit. Leaving a conventional trickle charger on for long periods is not a good idea as it will knacker the battery almost as well as letting it repeatedly discharge. If you have after-market stuff that puts a drain on the battery while parked then a battery cut-off switch is a good idea (but *not* one with a bypass fuse). These switches also eliminate the possibility of a short developing while the car is parked up that could burn it out, and also are a quick and convenient way of cutting off the power (together with switching off the engine) if a short should develop while you are driving. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Are you saying if a battery voltage is below 10 volts, then it is shot and trying to charge it will not help. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Sat Sep 20 09:07:24 2008 From: "Richard Morris" To: "'Ron Shellenberger'" , Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 10:09:16 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Alternator question If after you charge a battery and see low voltage, then read on. Dead cells in batteries cause the voltage to drop by about 1.5 volts for each dead cell. That's pretty easy to spot with a voltmeter. And no amount of charging will revive a dead cell since it's shorted out. If you were to run a battery down by leaving lights on, etc, it's voltage can be well below 10. But it's low because of the drain. Try recharge and then check voltage. A nice hot, charged battery will be well over 12.0 right off the charger and no load. Richard -----Original Message----- From: mgb-v8-bounces+richard.morris=cox.net@autox.team.net [mailto:mgb-v8-bounces+richard.morris=cox.net@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Shellenberger Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2008 7:08 AM To: Mgb-v8@autox.team.net Subject: [Mgb-v8] Alternator question Jim, Are you saying if a battery voltage is below 10 volts, then it is shot and trying to charge it will not help. I have several cars that don't get driven alot, so I am looking for an easy way to diagnose battery and starting problems. Ron Shellenberger Mgb-v8 mailing list You are subscribed as richard.morris@cox.net Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Mon Sep 22 08:58:34 2008 From: Barrie Robinson To: harv8@sympatico.ca Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 10:57:15 -0400 Subject: [Mgb-v8] Kevin Pesant Martyn, I spoke to Kevin Pesant and Rita Carlson (white MGB V8 roadster) yesterday at Bronte (reckon there was over 1,000 cars!) as I met them at Willoughby - went to look for their car but they must have left early. The number I have 519-687-1536 seems to be a lumber place ??? Do you have any contact details? Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Mon Sep 22 21:00:07 2008 From: "James J." To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 22:59:43 -0400 Subject: [Mgb-v8] Australian V8 merchant Does anyone have the contact info or web-site for the Aussie chap who makes those nice 4-2-1 header for the Rover V8 in a B'? I used to have it, but now I cant find it. V/R James Jewell _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Tue Sep 23 18:27:57 2008 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net,mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 20:27:37 -0400 Subject: [Mgb-v8] Castrol GTX 20-50W for Classics I understood that there is Castrol GTX 20-50w for Classic Cars now available. I can only find Castrol SYNTEX for classic cars and I am under the impression that synthetic is not good for our classics? Anybody got definitive information? Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Tue Sep 23 19:55:20 2008 From: Bill Zenkus To: "James J." Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 18:55:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Australian V8 merchant I could use this info too Mgbz Sent from Bill's iPhone! On Sep 22, 2008, at 10:59 PM, "James J." wrote: Does anyone have the contact info or web-site for the Aussie chap who makes those nice 4-2-1 header for the Rover V8 in a B'? I used to have it, but now I cant find it. V/R James Jewell Mgb-v8 mailing list You are subscribed as mgb_zenkus@yahoo.com Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Wed Sep 24 04:18:18 2008 From: "Wayne Kube" To: "Bill Zenkus" , "James J." Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:15:02 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Australian V8 merchant Is this what you're referring to? http://www.britishv8.org/MG/AdrianAkhurst.htm AA automotive :- 14 Nightingale Av Magill SA 08 8364 4988 mgadel@senet.com.au http://www.mgaustralia.net.au/index.html http://www.british-cars.net/mgb-gt-v8-technical-bbs/v8-conversion-in-australia-2007010301441831878.htm Wayne Kube Plano, TX '79 MGB V8 3.9L EFI "Hobbes" Logan Lathe Model 1925 n5wmk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Zenkus" To: "James J." Cc: Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 8:55 PM Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Australian V8 merchant >I could use this info too > > Mgbz > > Sent from Bill's iPhone! > > On Sep 22, 2008, at 10:59 PM, "James J." wrote: > > Does anyone have the contact info or web-site for the Aussie chap who > makes those nice 4-2-1 header for the Rover V8 in a B'? > I used to have it, but now I cant find it. > > V/R > James Jewell > Mgb-v8 mailing list > > You are subscribed as mgb_zenkus@yahoo.com > > Mgb-v8@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgb-v8 mailing list > > You are subscribed as wkube@augustmail.com > > Mgb-v8@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Thu Sep 25 08:34:55 2008 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 10:33:53 -0400 Subject: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 I have a Rover 3.5L engine with 10:1 compression and mild cam. It is fed by the appropriate (new) SU pump. While reading the manual (I did what??) on the Edelbrock 1404 carb, that is fitted, it said one should use an Edelbrock 8190 fuel regulator. Now, I do know my engine runs rich (very) and on Mark's (D&D Fabrications) advice, I am about to change to Prime metering rod 1441 size 062052, Primary jet 1421 080, (orange springs). I often get big smells of gas, and black smoke when I do a stationary broom broom. But the Eddy manual sort of suggests this could also be due to too high a fuel pressure. So my question is .....Is a fuel regulator a good idea, or is it just a refinement which would hardly make any difference? I did find that one has to have a gauge too so the whole thing will cost about $100 Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Thu Sep 25 08:45:35 2008 From: "Smit, Theo" To: "Barrie Robinson" , Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 08:45:26 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 The only time that a regulator will make a difference on how the engine runs is if you have so much fuel pressure that you're overpowering the float's ability to close the needle against the seat. When that happens you'll have fuel pouring out of the top of the carb. If your situation is borderline then this may only happen during sudden transients such as when you drive the car in an autocross, and you might have an unexpectedly high fuel level in the float bowl, which would affect the tuning. I forget if the Edelbrock has an external sight glass, but if you can figure out where the fuel level should be in the carb (based on the float level where the needle and seat just close) and then compare it against where it actually is, you'll know whether or not the fuel pressure is okay for the needle and seat and float combination. Black smoke on stationary acceleration is either misfiring, or it's because the accelerator pump is squirting way too much fuel. Rich running during part-throttle cruise requires messing with the metering rods. But you should first of all make sure of the needle and seat situation, because nothing is going to work properly until you have that set properly. Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: mgb-v8-bounces+theo.smit=dynastream.com@autox.team.net > [mailto:mgb-v8-bounces+theo.smit=dynastream.com@autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of Barrie Robinson > Sent: September 25, 2008 8:34 AM > To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 > > So my question is .....Is a fuel regulator a good idea, or is > it just a refinement which would hardly make any difference? > I did find that one has to have a gauge too so the whole > thing will cost about $100 > > Regards > Barrie > > Barrie Robinson > (705) 721-9060 > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm > http://www.britcot.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgb-v8 mailing list > > You are subscribed as theo.smit@dynastream.com > > Mgb-v8@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Thu Sep 25 10:31:14 2008 From: James Bown To: Barrie Robinson , Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 10:31:08 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 The jet/rod change is a good idea. I did the same to mine and the over rich condition is fixed. Do you need a regulator? Check your fuel pressure and find out. If it is too high then either use a regulator or fix the problem with the fuel pump. I am not using a regulator because the pressure from my fuel pump is OK. Regards, Jim Bown> Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 10:33:53 -0400> To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net> From: barrie@look.ca> Subject: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8> > I have a Rover 3.5L engine with 10:1 compression and mild cam. It is > fed by the appropriate (new) SU pump. While reading the manual (I > did what??) on the Edelbrock 1404 carb, that is fitted, it said one > should use an Edelbrock 8190 fuel regulator.> > Now, I do know my engine runs rich (very) and on Mark's (D&D > Fabrications) advice, I am about to change to Prime metering rod 1441 > size 062052, Primary jet 1421 080, (orange springs). I often get > big smells of gas, and black smoke when I do a stationary broom > broom. But the Eddy manual sort of suggests this could also be due > to too high a fuel pressure.> > So my question is .....Is a fuel regulator a good idea, or is it just > a refinement which would hardly make any difference? I did find that > one has to have a gauge too so the whole thing will cost about $100> > Regards> Barrie> > Barrie Robinson> (705) 721-9060> http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm> http://www.britcot.com > _______________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the go. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Thu Sep 25 17:30:10 2008 From: "Jim Stuart" To: "James Bown" , "Barrie Robinson" Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 19:29:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 Barrie- If you are using the stock MGB SU pump, it is unlikely you will develop more than 4 lbs of pressure, which is what the SU and later Zeinith crabs required- maybe a touch over with a new pump. Carter and Edelbrock 4bbl crabs, per the factory manuals, are quite happy at no more than 5 lbs. I ran my Olds/Buick heads 215 10.75/1 compression for over 200,000 with stock SU pumps and no regulator, and no problems. Later, I found my 4.2 was starved at top end flat out with SU pump & changed to a Faucet. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Bown" To: "Barrie Robinson" ; Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 12:31 PM Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 > The jet/rod change is a good idea. > I did the same to mine and the over rich condition is fixed. > Do you need a regulator? > Check your fuel pressure and find out. > If it is too high then either use a regulator or fix the problem with the > fuel > pump. > I am not using a regulator because the pressure from my fuel pump is OK. > Regards, > Jim Bown> Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 10:33:53 -0400> To: > mgb-v8@autox.team.net> > From: barrie@look.ca> Subject: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8> > I > have > a Rover 3.5L engine with 10:1 compression and mild cam. It is > fed by the > appropriate (new) SU pump. While reading the manual (I > did what??) on > the > Edelbrock 1404 carb, that is fitted, it said one > should use an Edelbrock > 8190 fuel regulator.> > Now, I do know my engine runs rich (very) and on > Mark's (D&D > Fabrications) advice, I am about to change to Prime metering > rod > 1441 > size 062052, Primary jet 1421 080, (orange springs). I often get > > big > smells of gas, and black smoke when I do a stationary broom > broom. But > the > Eddy manual sort of suggests this could also be due > to too high a fuel > pressure.> > So my question is .....Is a fuel regulator a good idea, or is > it > just > a refinement which would hardly make any difference? I did find > that > > one has to have a gauge too so the whole thing will cost about $100> > > Regards> Barrie> > Barrie Robinson> (705) 721-9060> > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm> http://www.britcot.com > > _______________________________________________ > _________________________________________________________________ > See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the > go. > http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgb-v8 mailing list > > You are subscribed as jimbb88@comcast.net > > Mgb-v8@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Thu Sep 25 18:36:06 2008 From: "Richard Morris" To: "'Jim Stuart'" , "'James Bown'" Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 19:38:01 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 Barrie, I switched from the original SU to the electronic SU offered by MOSS. My 3.5 is about as wild a 3.5 as I have seen. While I can rev to 7000, I only do it for short bursts. (600 Holley double pumper on the Offy high rpm intake). Maybe if you had a 4.2 and ran it on the highway at high RPM and then punched it, you might get the starve problem, but I think on the 3.5 even with 11.5:1 like I have, the electronic SU is fine. I still have the stock rear gears with 205/15's on it, so I turn some RPM's on the road. We did a run from Tulsa to Kansas City and back last year and on the way back averaged over 90 MPH and never had a lean problem. This is a pretty good sign of it being okay. Richard -----Original Message----- From: mgb-v8-bounces+richard.morris=cox.net@autox.team.net [mailto:mgb-v8-bounces+richard.morris=cox.net@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Stuart Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 6:30 PM To: James Bown; Barrie Robinson; mgb-v8@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 Barrie- If you are using the stock MGB SU pump, it is unlikely you will develop more than 4 lbs of pressure, which is what the SU and later Zeinith crabs required- maybe a touch over with a new pump. Carter and Edelbrock 4bbl crabs, per the factory manuals, are quite happy at no more than 5 lbs. I ran my Olds/Buick heads 215 10.75/1 compression for over 200,000 with stock SU pumps and no regulator, and no problems. Later, I found my 4.2 was starved at top end flat out with SU pump & changed to a Faucet. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Bown" To: "Barrie Robinson" ; Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 12:31 PM Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 > The jet/rod change is a good idea. > I did the same to mine and the over rich condition is fixed. > Do you need a regulator? > Check your fuel pressure and find out. > If it is too high then either use a regulator or fix the problem with the > fuel > pump. > I am not using a regulator because the pressure from my fuel pump is OK. > Regards, > Jim Bown> Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 10:33:53 -0400> To: > mgb-v8@autox.team.net> > From: barrie@look.ca> Subject: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8> > I > have > a Rover 3.5L engine with 10:1 compression and mild cam. It is > fed by the > appropriate (new) SU pump. While reading the manual (I > did what??) on > the > Edelbrock 1404 carb, that is fitted, it said one > should use an Edelbrock > 8190 fuel regulator.> > Now, I do know my engine runs rich (very) and on > Mark's (D&D > Fabrications) advice, I am about to change to Prime metering > rod > 1441 > size 062052, Primary jet 1421 080, (orange springs). I often get > > big > smells of gas, and black smoke when I do a stationary broom > broom. But > the > Eddy manual sort of suggests this could also be due > to too high a fuel > pressure.> > So my question is .....Is a fuel regulator a good idea, or is > it > just > a refinement which would hardly make any difference? I did find > that > > one has to have a gauge too so the whole thing will cost about $100> > > Regards> Barrie> > Barrie Robinson> (705) 721-9060> > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm> http://www.britcot.com > > _______________________________________________ > _________________________________________________________________ > See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the > go. > http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mgb-v8 mailing list > > You are subscribed as jimbb88@comcast.net > > Mgb-v8@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 Mgb-v8 mailing list You are subscribed as richard.morris@cox.net Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Thu Sep 25 21:27:51 2008 From: James Bown To: Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 21:23:56 -0600 Subject: [Mgb-v8] Edelbrock/Weber 500 jetting The primary jetting for the Edelbrock/Weber 500, that has long been recommended by D&D and RPi, has been jet .080 (1421) and rod 062 X 052 (1441). Edelbrock includes in the 1403 Owner's Manual (page 18) a nice Calibration Reference Chart. The particular jet/rod combination recommended by D&D and RPi is not listed on that chart. I wonder if anyone knows where that jet/rod combination would fall on the chart? Regards, Jim Bown _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 02:12:06 2008 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Richard Morris" , Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 08:57:36 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 There should be no difference between a points-type SU and a pointless (electronic) SU. The only difference is in the 'switch' that turns the solenoid on and off - the solenoid, return spring and diaphragm which determine pumping rate are the same. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I switched from the original SU to the electronic SU offered by MOSS. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 02:12:14 2008 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Jim Stuart" , Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 08:55:05 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 Good grief! A standard SU should be capable of delivering at least one Imperial pint per minute, and in practice delivers closer to two! That's 10 gallons per hour! ----- Original Message ----- ... Later, I found my 4.2 was starved at top end flat out with SU pump & changed to a Faucet. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 02:12:17 2008 From: "Paul Hunt" To: , "Barrie Robinson" Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 08:49:05 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Fuel regulator for MGB GT V8 As Theo says regarding fuel pressure, and an SU is very unlikely to have overwhelmed any float valve I would have said, it's normally after-market pumps that cause the problem. However black smoke does imply way over-rich to me, and possibly the fuel smells as well, although once the engine is running that would normally be leaks, if it were so rich it wasn't burning all the fuel it would probably choke the engine to death. I'd check that float chamber vent is clear (it should be piped down past the engine), and if I can make so bold also suggest you confirm you have the fuel inlet on the correct port and not the vent, as both problems will cause grossly rich mixtures. However the other symptom of these, or float valves leaking, is the SU pump ticking when it shouldn't be. With the engine stopped and the ignition on an SU pump shouldn't tick more than once every 30 secs, once float chambers are fully charged. If it ticks more often either there is a leak in the pipework between pump and carb, the float valve isn't closing for reason, which includes the above two errors as well as simply a leaking valve. It is also a symptom of the supply-side non-return valve leaking back, but that will only cause fuel starvation at high speeds, and only when very bad. All this, plus possibly the wrong jets for the application, or some other problem with the carb - leaking accelerator pump? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... I often get big smells of gas, and black smoke when I do a stationary broom broom... _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 11:07:42 2008 From: Barrie Robinson To: James Bown , Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 12:40:27 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Edelbrock/Weber 500 jetting As I am about to try the D&D recommendation I would be interested in any erudite comments. The one thing that sticks in my thought tank is that both D&D and RPi do tons of Rover V8 engines and one has to assume that their recommendations are based on experience !!! So the recommended configuration is Primary jet is the 1421 (.080) Secondary stock 1426 (.095) Metering rod 1441 (.062 x .052) At 11:23 PM 9/25/2008, James Bown wrote: >The primary jetting for the Edelbrock/Weber 500, that has long been >recommended by D&D and RPi, has been jet .080 (1421) and rod 062 X 052 (1441). >Edelbrock includes in the 1403 Owner's Manual (page 18) a nice Calibration >Reference Chart. The particular jet/rod combination recommended by D&D and RPi >is not listed on that chart. I wonder if anyone knows where that jet/rod >combination would fall on the chart? >Regards, >Jim Bown >_________________________________________________________________ >Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. >http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Mgb-v8 mailing list > >You are subscribed as barrie@look.ca > >Mgb-v8@autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 13:09:50 2008 From: Bill Zenkus To: Barrie Robinson Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 12:02:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mgb-v8] Edelbrock/Weber 500 jetting I am running with the setup from D&D but mine still is rich. My float level may be off so I will be checking that I have a spread sheet that I put together based much on info I gleened off this group on this topic over the last couple of years I would be happy to forward that out to everyone later when I get access Sent from Bill's iPhone! On Sep 26, 2008, at 12:40 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote: As I am about to try the D&D recommendation I would be interested in any erudite comments. The one thing that sticks in my thought tank is that both D&D and RPi do tons of Rover V8 engines and one has to assume that their recommendations are based on experience !!! So the recommended configuration is Primary jet is the 1421 (.080) Secondary stock 1426 (.095) Metering rod 1441 (.062 x .052) At 11:23 PM 9/25/2008, James Bown wrote: The primary jetting for the Edelbrock/Weber 500, that has long been recommended by D&D and RPi, has been jet .080 (1421) and rod 062 X 052 (1441). Edelbrock includes in the 1403 Owner's Manual (page 18) a nice Calibration Reference Chart. The particular jet/rod combination recommended by D&D and RPi is not listed on that chart. I wonder if anyone knows where that jet/rod combination would fall on the chart? Regards, Jim Bown _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ Mgb-v8 mailing list You are subscribed as barrie@look.ca Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com Mgb-v8 mailing list You are subscribed as mgb_zenkus@yahoo.com Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8 From mgb-v8-bounces+mharc=autox.team.net@autox.team.net Sun Sep 28 16:18:50 2008 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net,mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 18:18:15 -0400 Subject: [Mgb-v8] hello Will Bill Guzman please contact me? - need your advices !! Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Mgb-v8 mailing list Mgb-v8@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8