From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 06:24:15 2010 From: Allen Hess To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 08:15:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] free MGB Just passing this on to the list for anyone in the area. See the link below: http://www.mgcarclub.com/asp_bin/classifieds.asp?lcn=wny Begin forwarded message: > An ad was placed on the MG CAR CLUB WEBSITE > from Windsor Locks, CT > > My uncle has an MGB (I checked the logo on the trunk) in his > backyard near Hartford, CT. He thought it was from 1956, but it > must be newer if it's an MGB. We are helping him clean out the > yard, and he would like to see this car go to someone who would > enjoy it rather than to the junk yard. It has likely been sitting > out there for over 30 years, and is not in good shape. > Contact me by email if you are interested. We would like to get > rid of this soon. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 19:40:41 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: MG LIST Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 20:34:53 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for << My brother (a Brewers fan) calls the Cubs "lovable losers". We LOVE to see them LOSE. >> At least that's the MAJORITY of the time, Paul !!! LOL I'm a Sox fan anyway, so who cares ?!?!? Besides, 'baseball' DIED when the Dodgers mover OUT of Ebbits Field !!!! << He bought a TR7, btw. >> Poor guy. What a pure WASTE of good money [sorry, Mark] !! << Engine is way low on power, still faster than the 'B. >> Make the 'B' Driver LIGHTER. Dats all it would take !!! LOL !! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [with MGA & MGB stuff listed ! ] _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 19:44:36 2010 From: Paul Root To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 20:44:48 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for So now your in with my Doctor, Ed? On Jul 1, 2010, at 8:34 PM, Shop at Just Brits wrote: > > Make the 'B' Driver LIGHTER. Dats all it would take !!! LOL !! _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 20:25:07 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: MG LIST Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 21:22:54 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for << So now your in with my Doctor, Ed? >> HeeHee Paul, and I don;t even get a 'cut' of his FEES !!! However, if the shoe fits..................................... !! Heart Healthy anyway !! _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 20:25:39 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: MG LIST Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 21:24:48 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] so this is what happens when we take our cars in for << You had me searching my mail folder for the rest of the conversation :-) >> Must be an up-side-down thing, Eric !!! Besides, *I* would checked the Archives [by topic] !! _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 21:44:06 2010 From: Mark J Bradakis To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 21:50:00 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Mgs] List membership notes For some reason it seems I've gotten more than the usual number of admin messages regarding posts by a non-member to a list. It has been happening on a number of the many lists I manage, not just this one. Basically what happens is this: People subscribe AddressA to the list. They get the messages at that address. They send messages to the list from AddressB. AddressA is a member, AddressB is not. The post from AddressB is rejected as non-member spam. Send messages from the address that is subscribed and they won't get rejected as non-member spam. If you aren't set up for digest mode, the address where you get the mail is listed in the trailer of each and every posting, right there below the donate link. Donate early, donate often! If you normally send messages from AddressB, then subscribe AddressB to the list. If you want messages to go to AddressA and not AddressB, then subscribe AddressB and set your mailman options to not deliver to AddressB. Hopefully this will assist some folks with managing Team.Net email. mjb. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 2 16:00:14 2010 From: tartanredmgb@gmail.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 14:51:27 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] anyone in/near Okanagan WA? I am looking to buy an early MGB roadster, and one is for sale in Washington. Is there anyone that might take a look at the car for me? Thanks! _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 5 21:58:42 2010 From: Mark J Bradakis To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 21:01:44 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Mgs] ATT Troubles Those of you who have email that gets routed in various ways through AT&T, like att.net, sbcglobal.net, pacbell, etc. Have most likely not seen any Team.Net email for a few days. For some reason AT&T was blocking Team.Net. I have no idea why, what started it, and you folks don't pay me enough to waste a day on the phone sifting through an endless stream of clueless "tech support" drones to find out why. I have gotten the block removed and am in the process of getting the effected addresses back into normal operation. Thank you for your patience. mjb. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 10:01:24 2010 From: Aaron Whiteman To: MG Mailing List Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 08:06:48 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts Do alternator regulators have the ability to cut off stupid shorts? The situation: I planned to drive the MG to work today, car started as normal and I'm happy. I drive down hill about 2 blocks and approach the first stoplight, when the red light in the dash comes on, very brightly. No changes when revving. I feel a slight stumble and think "get this car home!", but only make it about half way up the hill before she dies. I'm able to get the car re-oreiented so it's nose down backed into a driveway, set the brake and pop the hood. One of the primary wires (I have a Bosch alternator, there are two "big spades" that are wired parallel) is not on the spade, but resting in the aluminum well that surrounds it. At this point, the car turns over and sounds like it does have weak spark (I hear little pops, but not enough to get the car to run), so I coast back down the hill and park at the local grocery. The red light is NOT on. While coasting down, I attempted a rolling start, revved to about 2000rpm, no red light then either. Aside from the obvious (test alternator, test battery), what else do I worry about; there were no baking wire smells. -- Aaron _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 12:01:44 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Aaron Whiteman" , "MG Mailing List" Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 18:08:48 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts some peoples stupid shorts do deserve to be cut off and burnt. Even if the alternator suddenly packed up the battery should get it another 40 miles at least. And if there is enough energy in the battery to turn the engine over, but it won't start, then there is some other issue. Check you have HT with a timing light clipped onto the coil lead and each plug lead in turn and watch the flashes while cranking. Remove a fuel feed pipe from a carb (ignition off!) and see if you get a spurt of fuel. If so, more research needed. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Aaron Whiteman" To: "MG Mailing List" Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 4:06 PM Subject: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts > Do alternator regulators have the ability to cut off stupid shorts? > > The situation: > I planned to drive the MG to work today, car started as normal and I'm > happy. > I drive down hill about 2 blocks and approach the first stoplight, when > the > red light in the dash comes on, very brightly. No changes when revving. > I > feel a slight stumble and think "get this car home!", but only make it > about > half way up the hill before she dies. > > I'm able to get the car re-oreiented so it's nose down backed into a > driveway, > set the brake and pop the hood. > > One of the primary wires (I have a Bosch alternator, there are two "big > spades" that are wired parallel) is not on the spade, but resting in the > aluminum well that surrounds it. > > At this point, the car turns over and sounds like it does have weak spark > (I > hear little pops, but not enough to get the car to run), so I coast back > down > the hill and park at the local grocery. The red light is NOT on. While > coasting down, I attempted a rolling start, revved to about 2000rpm, no > red > light then either. > > Aside from the obvious (test alternator, test battery), what else do I > worry > about; there were no baking wire smells. > > -- > Aaron > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 18:27:32 2010 From: Glenn Schnittke To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 18:47:50 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts > some peoples stupid shorts do deserve to be cut off and burnt. I used to have a pair if shorts that was all Budweiser labels. They were so stupid I kind of wish I still had them. Glenn -- Nil desperandum Glenn Schnittke ----------------------- g.schnittke@comcast.net Home - 615-837-5883 Cell - 615-319-5534 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 21:00:39 2010 From: Mark J Bradakis To: MG Mailing List Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 20:03:56 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts For many years my wife and I hosted a Beach Party here in Utah during the February snows. I know I have a photo or two online of some seriously stupid shorts. Perhaps when I'm done working on this AT&T block nonsense I'll post some. Then again, I may be merciful and keep them to myself. mjb. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 21:59:10 2010 From: Aaron Whiteman To: CoolVT@aol.com Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 20:20:31 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts (first reply sent only to Paul, so you'll get two copies; sorry about that) On Jul 6, 2010, at 10:08 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > some peoples stupid shorts do deserve to be cut off and burnt. Agreed. But my utilikilt is cherished (except when driving a MG). > Even if the alternator suddenly packed up the battery should get it another 40 miles at least. And if there is enough energy in the battery to turn the engine over, but it won't start, then there is some other issue. Check you have HT with a timing light clipped onto the coil lead and each plug lead in turn and watch the flashes while cranking. Remove a fuel feed pipe from a carb (ignition off!) and see if you get a spurt of fuel. If so, more research needed. OK, the car is home. The alternator has 3 spades--2 that provide charging amps, one that provides the signal to the red light in the cockpit. The top charging spade was not attached to it's wire, which was sitting "over" the spade, potentially making intermittent contact with the alternator body (it's a plastic covered connection, so the chance of a short is smaller. Possibly, there was no short here at all. However, a fuse that I had wired in-line in the white circuit under the dash had blown. While the car was running, that bulb was full on, I suspect current was going through the indicator and to the fuel pump as an alternate circuit when the fuse "protected" the normal path failed. Once the car died (insufficient power to pump enough fuel to go up a hill?), the alternator no longer lit up the circuit, but because the white line was cut, the bulb was dead when "ignition on, engine off" too. In any event, when I replaced that fuse, I had no trouble getting home. Finding the short that caused the failure could be Real Fun. -- Aaron _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 02:27:34 2010 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 17:02:31 +0930 Subject: [Mgs] A little video for you from the weekend... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzUI1SU80k4 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 02:28:46 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Aaron Whiteman" Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 08:41:59 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] no rich cunky volts Depends just where that fuse is inserted, both for what might have blown it as well as what still worked and what didn't work when it had blown. Current through the indicator warning light from the alternator is pretty small, enough to keep a relay operated but not much else, certainly not ignition or fuel pump, but the low impedance of the ignition is certainly enough to light it at near full brilliance, which is what you see every time you turn the ignition off while the engine is spinning down. Even less chance of bump starting the engine when the alternator was no longer charging, if there wasn't enough current available to keep the engine running when it was. Also when you did bump start it, if the warning light was no longer on, then the 12v ignition supply must have been back on again (which was why it *did* start). It could be that the short caused a weak connection at the fuse to open up, but not actually blow the fuse. That 'repaired' itself, quite possibly during the bump-start, also dislodging the short, only for the short to come back on again (as they do) but this time blow the fuse. Good job you had one, or it could burn the wiring. With faults like this about the only option is to temporarily insert fuses in various branches of the white circuit, and break down which branch is causing the problem that way. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > However, a fuse that I had wired in-line in the white circuit under the > dash > had blown. While the car was running, that bulb was full on, I suspect > current was going through the indicator and to the fuel pump as an > alternate > circuit when the fuse "protected" the normal path failed. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 05:01:01 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Eric" , Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 11:01:59 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] A little video for you from the weekend... Nah, can't fool me, you were sitting in front of a projector screen - speedo wasn't moving :o) Seriously though, your tach was wavering up and down much more than I would have expected from the sound track and track position. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzUI1SU80k4 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 05:29:34 2010 From: Eric Erickson To: MGList List Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 20:22:39 +0930 Subject: Re: [Mgs] A little video for you from the weekend... On 07/07/2010, at 7:31 PM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Nah, can't fool me, you were sitting in front of a projector screen - speedo wasn't moving :o) > > Seriously though, your tach was wavering up and down much more than I would have expected from the sound track and track position. > Yeah - can't fool you guys :-) 1. My speedo died during the week but it wasn't something I really worried about because I really don't look at it on the track - I now have a few weeks to get around to finding out what is wrong with it and getting it back in order. 2. I am seriously looking at a decent tacho (solid state??) - but it does actually work alright for me (it isn't such a fine line for gear changes). The thing is taking a decent bashing and you would bounce around if you were in that car, too :-) I know when it is red lining. This was my first time out with my new brake lines after a disappointing failure of a brake line last time out - and I was really pushing them to find the limits (and to set up the balance between front and rear). I got a decent wriggle into one corner and it felt great until I looked over my shoulder through the corner and saw the massive trail of tyre smoke. I can't believe how wonderfully she was under control despite such a lockup - and no noticeable flat spot on the tyres (the benefit of a light car on those tyres). It was a great day out and I grabbed three quarters of a second on my previous personal best time - consistently over most laps that day. I have just over half a second to find to hit my target time. Eric _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 07:29:11 2010 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 08:39:36 EDT Subject: [Mgs] My stupidest Shorts entry Hey Folks, My "stupidest short" happened when I in a rush hooked up my Battery charger in reverse, Ergo I burnt out the capacitor and the alternator and fried out a bunch of wires. Thank God I saw wisps of smoke emanating out of the area behind the passenger seat. That one cost me a few bucks. But it taught me that the MGBs like other British cars with Lucus electrics (relays, switches, connectors) fry very easily. Alberto Escalante _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 14 15:29:59 2010 From: "Craig Straub" To: Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 15:38:35 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Enclosed trailer for MGB Hi List, Starting to look for an enclosed trailer for my 1973 MGB for a long tow next year. I am kind of limited to the size I need. The tow vehicle is a 1998 Ford F-150 with a 4.6 v-8. I do know that I do not want a v-nose, because they carry too much tongue weight. Any suggestions on size????? Thanks, Craig _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 15 15:20:29 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net,mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 16:31:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB indicator switch I cannot get my newish indicator switch thingy to self cancel. I have had the thing to pieces and tried all sorts of way - but self cancel it will not except when you turn the wheel way past centre again. Anyone understand the da-m thing? It did work before I adjusted the wheel to be centred when the wheels were going straight Regards Barrie barrie@look.ca 705--721-9060 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 15 15:53:21 2010 From: David Breneman To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 14:07:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Seattle-area question I read *somewhere* that there was an upcoming MGCCNWC tech session at the new Girot's Garage in Tacoma, but I can't find details about it anywhere. Has it come and gone already? Thanks! David Breneman david_breneman@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 15 16:22:50 2010 From: "Chad" To: Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 16:48:22 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] FW: MGB indicator switch There is a cam lobe type thing on the steering shaft right behind the steering wheel, it is what flips the tab to turn off the signals. The lobe has to be centered when the wheels are straight. I believe it has to be at the very top (0 degrees). Also sometimes the plastic tab that the lobe hits will get flimsy and not stiff enough to move the signal lever. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barrie Robinson Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 3:32 PM To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] MGB indicator switch I cannot get my newish indicator switch thingy to self cancel. I have had the thing to pieces and tried all sorts of way - but self cancel it will not except when you turn the wheel way past centre again. Anyone understand the da-m thing? It did work before I adjusted the wheel to be centred when the wheels were going straight Regards Barrie barrie@look.ca 705--721-9060 _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 15 22:22:05 2010 From: Simon Matthews To: MGS Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 20:37:03 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Generator pulley size? Can anyone tell me the correct diameter for the generator pulley on a '57 MGA? Simon _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 04:18:33 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: , , "Barrie Robinson" Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 10:15:52 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB indicator switch What year? There were at least three different types of cancelling. For the early and middle types the cancelling peg/cam has to be between the cancelling fingers of the switch i.e. facing the switch (not at the top or it will give different characteristics right to left). Early columns had a screwed peg, and the column needs to be rotated in the UJ to get that right. Middle columns have a cam which is a tight fit on the outside of the column, but can be slid round to the correct position. Later columns are completely different. On early and middle the wheel should only need to be turned about a quarter turn in either direction from straight ahead for the peg or cam to pass under the finger, lifting it out of the way, then when straightening up it should press on the end of the finger to push the switch back. Newer middle switches with the integral plastic fingers can be iffy in that the tips of the fingers aren't close enough together (poor moulding), so that on the way back the cam doesn't engage them deep enough and the finger just pops up out of the way. I had to build up my cam with solder to get it to work reliably with a new switch. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I cannot get my newish indicator switch thingy to self cancel. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 11:53:32 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: Simon Matthews , MGS Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 11:36:55 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Generator pulley size? At 08:37 PM 7/15/2010 -0700, Simon Matthews wrote: >Can anyone tell me the correct diameter for the generator pulley on a '57 MGA? >.... Yup. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et123.htm There were four different sizes of generator pulleys for MGA, two in sheet metal for the pushrod cars and two in cast iron for the Twin Cam cars. For pushrod cars, pulley size was reduced (and belt shortened) to increase dynamo speed at engine number 17061 (February 1957). http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/csm/mg205.pdf Early pulley was 3-5/8" diameter. Later pulley was about 3" diameter. For Twin Cam, pulley size was reduced (and belt shortened) to increase dynamo speed at engine number 272 (September 1958). http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/csm/mg237a.pdf Early pulley was 4-3/4" diameter. Later pulley was 4" diameter. For concours show some of the earlier cars may want to have the larger pulley and longer belt. Otherwise it is a good idea to convert the earlier cars to the smaller pulley and shorter belt for better charging. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 18 23:43:31 2010 From: don To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 22:41:31 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB scam In my undending pursuit of a nice early B roadster, I just came upon a scam. Last one of these crooks I encountered, a Christian missionary from Tuvolu, wanted to buy my TR8. This scam is a guy supposedly selling a red MGB roadster. The car is advertised on Auto Trader, and the seller claims to live in Los Altos CA. I live in northern CA, so not that far from there. I tried calling the phone number in the ad and the phone number was not a working number. Hmmm. I emailed the seller, and did get a reply, but no method of contacting by phone was offered. He sent me a link to a website with pretty pictures of the car, but no way to contact the guy by phone. Finally, I get the email from him which is very suspicious and I've copied it below. 1. THE AD http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1965-MG-MGB-312055.xhtml?actionMethod=find%2Fvehicle%2FvehicleSearchResults.xhtml%3AuShipController.init&conversationId=38613 2. THE PRETTY PICTURES Hi, Thanks for your email. This car is in great condition, the title is clear and all you have to do is to put your name on it. Here's a link with some pics http://s797.photobucket.com/albums/yy255/1965MG/ If you are interested email me back I need money very fast so I will let it go for just $8,500 Thanks >3. THE ATTEMPT TO GET MONEY FOR A CAR THAT PROBABLY DOES NOT EXIST >Hello, >Thank you for showing interest! I work as a petroleum engineer and >my time is limited. I am not so familiar with online sales and I >decided to use a service from an business-specialized company eBay >Purchase Protection. >The car is now in their custody and they will handle all sale >proces. The car will be shipped from eBay Motors Vehicle garage. The >shipping fees si already paid in advance by me and there will not be >any other costs regarding this transaction. The car will be shipped >to your address trough an enclosed trailer and will be at your >address in no more than 3 business days after the deposit is >confirmed by eBay. You will have also a 3 days for inspection. >If, by any reason, you won't be satisfied with it ( even though I >can assure you that it is exactly as described), you can return it >at my expense for a full refund of your deposit, no questions asked. >I think this is more than fair for both of us. >This deal WILL BE MADE UNDER THE eBay RULES AND POLICIES Both of us >will be protected. I WILL NOT DEAL OUTSIDE EBAY UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!! >In order to start our transaction I will need to know your: >Full name:............. >Shipping address....... >I will forward the details of our transaction to eBay and then you >will receive an invoice from them. >- Total price you have to pay is $8,500 > >Looking forward to hearing from you _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 04:34:01 2010 From: Doug Mak To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 03:33:52 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB scam Agreed.. Whenever a guy says the car is in eBay's "storage" is a fake. The same exact verbiage was used on another ad back in February. http://www.fightthescams.com/2010/02/16/owner-65027731-autotrader-com-vehicle-lead-2000-bmw-740i/ That's a shame; it's a nice looking car. doug On 18 Jul 2010, at 22:41, don wrote: > In my undending pursuit of a nice early B roadster, I just came upon > a scam. Last one of these crooks I encountered, a Christian > missionary from Tuvolu, wanted to buy my TR8. This scam is a guy > supposedly selling a red MGB roadster. > > The car is advertised on Auto Trader, and the seller claims to live > in Los Altos CA. I live in northern CA, so not that far from > there. I tried calling the phone number in the ad and the phone > number was not a working number. Hmmm. I emailed the seller, and > did get a reply, but no method of contacting by phone was > offered. He sent me a link to a website with pretty pictures of the > car, but no way to contact the guy by phone. Finally, I get the > email from him which is very suspicious and I've copied it below. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 11:17:28 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 09:50:37 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB scam Pretty obviously phony, when he says "he won't deal outside of eBay", and the car is advertised on AutoTrader. I mean, duh... Ebay isn't going to "protect" a sale made through AutoTrader. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/18/10 10:41 PM, don at don@napanet.net wrote: > In my undending pursuit of a nice early B roadster, I just came upon > a scam. Last one of these crooks I encountered, a Christian > missionary from Tuvolu, wanted to buy my TR8. This scam is a guy > supposedly selling a red MGB roadster. > > The car is advertised on Auto Trader, and the seller claims to live > in Los Altos CA. I live in northern CA, so not that far from > there. I tried calling the phone number in the ad and the phone > number was not a working number. Hmmm. I emailed the seller, and > did get a reply, but no method of contacting by phone was > offered. He sent me a link to a website with pretty pictures of the > car, but no way to contact the guy by phone. Finally, I get the > email from him which is very suspicious and I've copied it below. > > 1. THE AD > http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1965-MG-MGB-312055.xhtml?actionM > ethod=find%2Fvehicle%2FvehicleSearchResults.xhtml%3AuShipController.init&conve > rsationId=38613 > > 2. THE PRETTY PICTURES > Hi, > Thanks for your email. This car is in great condition, the title is > clear and all you have to do is to put your name on it. > Here's a link with some pics > http://s797.photobucket.com/ > albums/yy255/1965MG/ > If you are interested email me back > I need money very fast so I will let it go for just $8,500 > Thanks > >> 3. THE ATTEMPT TO GET MONEY FOR A CAR THAT PROBABLY DOES NOT EXIST >> Hello, >> Thank you for showing interest! I work as a petroleum engineer and >> my time is limited. I am not so familiar with online sales and I >> decided to use a service from an business-specialized company eBay >> Purchase Protection. >> The car is now in their custody and they will handle all sale >> proces. The car will be shipped from eBay Motors Vehicle garage. The >> shipping fees si already paid in advance by me and there will not be >> any other costs regarding this transaction. The car will be shipped >> to your address trough an enclosed trailer and will be at your >> address in no more than 3 business days after the deposit is >> confirmed by eBay. You will have also a 3 days for inspection. >> If, by any reason, you won't be satisfied with it ( even though I >> can assure you that it is exactly as described), you can return it >> at my expense for a full refund of your deposit, no questions asked. >> I think this is more than fair for both of us. >> This deal WILL BE MADE UNDER THE eBay RULES AND POLICIES Both of us >> will be protected. I WILL NOT DEAL OUTSIDE EBAY UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!! >> In order to start our transaction I will need to know your: >> Full name:............. >> Shipping address....... >> I will forward the details of our transaction to eBay and then you >> will receive an invoice from them. >> - Total price you have to pay is $8,500 >> >> Looking forward to hearing from you _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 11:30:12 2010 From: don To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 10:30:30 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB scam I know! How stupid does he thing the buyers are? The car was on eBay briefly, then cancelled so I think his original plan was to work the scam there. Maybe he forgot where he had advertised it. Not a very good crook. He would never make it in politics. Don Scott Calistoga CA 2 MGs 1 TR misc. Japanese cars At 09:50 AM 07/19/2010, Max Heim wrote: >Pretty obviously phony, when he says "he won't deal outside of eBay", and >the car is advertised on AutoTrader. I mean, duh... Ebay isn't going to >"protect" a sale made through AutoTrader. > >-- > >Max Heim >'66 MGB GHN3L76149 >If you're near Mountain View, CA, >it's the primer red one with chrome wires _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 12:31:34 2010 From: cyberemp@comcast.net To: MG LIST Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 18:28:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG add. Well, he's not even making it as a used car salesman. Humph!... back in MY day, con-men knew their business! Now with the infernet, all these foreign scam artists and would be scoundrels are flooding the market with their inferior workmanship... ***Sigh*** oh, what dark times we have entered... And actually,used car dealer persons are not necessarily scoundrels, I personally have only met a few. I do have a 65 mgb, but prior owner made a number of modifications, and told me he put over 300k on it in the 30 years he owned it. He did set it up to corner well though, tube shocks in rear, heavier valves in front shocks, slightly larger anti-roll bar. Yay! my current daily driver. Eric 46 mgtc 50MGA 65 MGB 70MGB 71 MGB So many cars, so little parking... >>>I know! How stupid does he thing the buyers are? The car was on eBay briefly, then cancelled so I think his original plan was to work the scam there. Maybe he forgot where he had advertised it. Not a very good crook. He would never make it in politics. Don Scott Calistoga CA 2 MGs 1 TR misc. Japanese cars _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 15:20:55 2010 From: James F Juhas To: MGVR@yahoogroups.com, vintage-race@autox.team.net, MG LIST Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 17:17:36 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Water pump for MGA What is the opinion of the group on whether to use an early MGB water pump on an MGA engine in a race application? When running at Monticello last week, just before my axle broke, I experienced significantly higher running temperatures than I had ever seen before. I pegged the gauge. Since I currently have the opportunity, I am changing the water pump and thermostat. So, I want to know if there is any particular advantage in running the 12 vane early MGB pump as opposed to the 6 vane MGA pump. The engine is a 1622 with modest upgrades. I have not previously had overheating issues. It was a VERY hot day, and the track is slower than most that I run (more twisty) and very power-demanding. Jim MGA 311 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of james_f_juhas.vcf] _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 15:33:39 2010 From: Phil Bates To: MGVR@yahoogroups.com, vintage-race@autox.team.net, MG LIST Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 14:34:11 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Water pump for MGA _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 17:28:59 2010 From: Malcolm Jeffcock To: members2@batans.ca, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 20:24:35 -0300 Subject: [Mgs] engine Hello listers: engine progresses but as with everything another bump: Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the two bolts which hold in the clutch slave cylinders? Are they SAE or "English thread"? It has been so long since I removed mine I can't find them! They are, I know, held together with masking tape and labeled but I cannot find where I put them! This one is on me, searched the garage, found my wire cutters but cannot locate the two bolts! As well any directions on the wiring for the o/d? I had tape on them reconnected them first but took no notice and they have come off, perhaps a cat perhaps just with jiggling engine trying to get on the engine mounts, doesn't matter and I should have left tape on them but didn't... Malcolm--hoping to drive his MG this weekend! _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 17:43:08 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: Malcolm Jeffcock , members2@batans.ca, Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 18:40:53 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] engine Well, for MGA: HBZ0615 - for early cars 3/8-24-UNF x 1-7/8 long ACH8483 - Com. (C) 21513 3/8-16-UNC x 1-7/8 long For MGB I might "guess" the later part carries over from MGA, but I don't have a SPL for the MGB to verify it. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http:/MGAguru.com At 08:24 PM 7/19/2010 -0300, Malcolm Jeffcock wrote: >.... >Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the two bolts which hold in >the clutch slave cylinders? .... > >As well any directions on the wiring for the o/d? I had tape on them >reconnected them first but took no notice and they have come off, >perhaps a cat perhaps just with jiggling engine trying to get on the >engine mounts, doesn't matter and I should have left tape on them but didn't... >.... >Malcolm--hoping to drive his MG this weekend! _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 18:00:12 2010 From: Matt Trebelhorn To: MG List Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 19:58:28 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] engine I just reinstalled the slave on my 5-main, 4-synchro B. They're definitely coarse thread; the late-A piece cited by Barney certainly sounds right. Matt 70 MGB On 19 Jul, 2010, at 7:40 PM, Barney Gaylord wrote: > Well, for MGA: > > HBZ0615 - for early cars > 3/8-24-UNF x 1-7/8 long > > ACH8483 - Com. (C) 21513 > 3/8-16-UNC x 1-7/8 long > > For MGB I might "guess" the later part carries over from MGA, but I > don't have a SPL for the MGB to verify it. > > Barney Gaylord > 1958 MGA with an attitude > http:/MGAguru.com > > > At 08:24 PM 7/19/2010 -0300, Malcolm Jeffcock wrote: >> .... >> Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the two bolts which hold in >> the clutch slave cylinders? .... >> >> As well any directions on the wiring for the o/d? I had tape on >> them reconnected them first but took no notice and they have come >> off, perhaps a cat perhaps just with jiggling engine trying to get >> on the engine mounts, doesn't matter and I should have left tape >> on them but didn't... >> .... >> Malcolm--hoping to drive his MG this weekend! > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ > matt.lists@trebelhorn.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 18:13:51 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 16:58:14 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] engine The OD switch isn't polarized -- It doesn't matter which lead goes to which prong. Can't help find your bolts, alas... -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/19/10 4:24 PM, Malcolm Jeffcock at msjeffcock@eastlink.ca wrote: > Hello listers: > > engine progresses but as with everything another bump: > > Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the two bolts which hold in the clutch > slave cylinders? Are they SAE or "English thread"? It has been so long since I > removed mine I can't find them! They are, I know, held together with masking > tape and labeled but I cannot find where I put them! This one is on me, > searched the garage, found my wire cutters but cannot locate the two bolts! > > As well any directions on the wiring for the o/d? I had tape on them > reconnected them first but took no notice and they have come off, perhaps a > cat perhaps just with jiggling engine trying to get on the engine mounts, > doesn't matter and I should have left tape on them but didn't... > > Malcolm--hoping to drive his MG this weekend! _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 20 02:01:53 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Malcolm Jeffcock" , Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 08:45:15 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] engine SH506081, SCREW, HEX, UNC, 3/8" X 1" for the MGB. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >>Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the two bolts which hold in >>the clutch slave cylinders? .... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 20 22:33:59 2010 From: "Councill, David" To: Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 21:37:55 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] MGB front suspension question My 64B currently sports wire wheels on the front and original disc wheels on the back. The previous owner was apparently converting the car to wire wheels. I am converting it back, partly because of the difficulty in acquiring a wire wheel axle and because I have most of the parts to change the front back to disc wheels. And I do like to keep my MGs mostly original (within reason). The question/problem is that my manuals as well as Moss show part #58 collar, oil seal 264-950 and I am not quite sure what this part is. I did remove a part that I think is the oil seal #59 120-610 pressed into the rear of the hubs. Moss diagram: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29020 Point is that the front hubs did have an oil seal that looks much like other oil seals used on the engine crank oil seals which cost around $3-4/ apiece similar to the oil seal part #59. And if that is the case, what is this considerably more expensive 264-950 at $25 each? Is this a part I am likely to find when I remove the ww hub and is it a part that could be reused? I can't tell much from the picture and this oil collar would be the most expensive part in the hub wear item components if it was a wear item that is. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 20 23:35:18 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: "Councill, David" , Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 00:01:05 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB front suspension question It is a steel piece, never wears out.l It is the first piece to be assembled onto the bearing spindle, gets captured by the inner bearing inner race. The OD of this part is the smooth surface for mating with the rotating oil seal in the hub. Same part for WW or DW cars. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 09:37 PM 7/20/2010 -0600, David Councill wrote: >My 64B .... my manuals as well as Moss show part #58 collar, oil >seal 264-950 and I am not quite sure what this part is. I did remove >a part that I think is the oil seal #59 120-610 pressed into the >rear of the hubs. Moss diagram: >http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29020 >.... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 21 22:24:01 2010 From: "Craig Straub" To: > Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:08:07 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down Hi list, I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt. As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery. Any suggestions? Thanks, Craig _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 02:52:58 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Craig Straub" Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 08:44:40 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down At the very least either tie it down to the cradle, or put a block of wood between the top and the metal cover. You certainly don't want it bouncing round and shorting out underneath, or even rattling around in the cage I'd say. This is one of the drawbacks of converting to single 12v, so rarely is securing the battery mentioned I'm guessing that most people leave them loose. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt. > > As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 03:38:03 2010 From: Richard Gosling To: Craig Straub Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:22:33 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down Rope? My 12V-in-a-6V-hole is wedged in so tight I must admit I don't bother with any tie-down. Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT, due for MOT yesterday, delayed due to cracked radiator :-( ) On 22 July 2010 04:08, Craig Straub wrote: > Hi list, > > I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt. > > As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery. > > Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > > Craig > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rbgosling@googlemail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 08:55:08 2010 From: atweditor@aol.com To: rbgosling@googlemail.com, craigstraub@sbcglobal.net Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:25:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down I use a short piece of 2X2 wood. Works fine, fits well, doesn't conduct electricity and is easily removed. Jay Donoghue 72 MGB-GT 66 Mustang -----Original Message----- From: Richard Gosling To: Craig Straub Cc: > Sent: Thu, Jul 22, 2010 5:38 am Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down Rope? My 12V-in-a-6V-hole is wedged in so tight I must admit I don't bother with any tie-down. Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT, due for MOT yesterday, delayed due to cracked radiator :-( ) On 22 July 2010 04:08, Craig Straub wrote: > Hi list, > > I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt. > > As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery. > > Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > > Craig > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rbgosling@googlemail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor@aol.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 08:57:51 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: "Craig Straub" ,> Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:43:06 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down Craig, I use a bungy cord - works fine At 11:08 PM 7/21/2010, Craig Straub wrote: >Hi list, > >I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt. > >As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery. > >Any suggestions? > >Thanks, > >Craig >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie@look.ca Regards Barrie barrie@look.ca 705--721-9060 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 10:26:55 2010 From: Eric Erickson To: MGList List Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 00:33:00 +0930 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down On 22/07/2010, at 11:13 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > Craig, > > I use a bungy cord - works fine > > Shesh - a few bucks gets you one of these generic battery brackets. http://www.haigh.com.au/images/ProductImages/BHS2.jpg Punch/drill a hole in either side of the battery box for the uprights to hook into and you are right. one of these holds my 12v battery in pretty firmly on a racetrack. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 10:29:14 2010 From: "Chad Cooper" To: "Craig Straub" Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 08:36:59 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down Gravity is plenty, unless you are offroading, a group 26 wedges in there pretty tightly. If you ever end up upside down the battery coming loose is the least of your concerns. --- craigstraub@sbcglobal.net wrote: From: "Craig Straub" To: Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:08:07 -0500 Hi list, I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt. As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery. Any suggestions? Thanks, Craig _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 11:54:29 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Chad Cooper Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:45:52 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down Gravity sometimes isn't enough. I bought a nice old 240 Volvo once where someone thought gravity was enough. There was this really nice burned spot on the hood right over the positive battery terminal. It doesn't take much, a speed bump a little too fast, a bad road, or a big pot hole and you might have your baby burn to the ground as your battery gives you an impromptu lesson in arc welding and its effects. Sheez, what does a generic battery hold down cost? $5? You would risk your ride for $5 and 20 minutes of labor? I wouldn't. .02 Rick On Thu, Jul 22, 2010 at 8:36 AM, Chad Cooper wrote: > Gravity is plenty, unless you are offroading, a group 26 wedges in there > pretty tightly. If you ever end up upside down the battery coming loose is > the least of your concerns. > > --- craigstraub@sbcglobal.net wrote: > > From: "Craig Straub" > To: > Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down > Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:08:07 -0500 > > Hi list, > > I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt. > > As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery. > > Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > > Craig > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 11:55:31 2010 From: atweditor@aol.com To: mgb72@airmail.net, craigstraub@sbcglobal.net Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 12:45:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down I know that in colder weather the battery actually shrinks just enough to be slightly loose. Also, I was told the story by the folks at Mountjoy in Hyattsville, MD of a guy going over the very bumpy railroad tracks by that shop and having the battery pop up enough for both terminals to hit the metal cover, and the battery exploded. Perhaps urban myth, but my 2X2 keeps me a little safer, maybe. Jay Donoghue -----Original Message----- From: Chad Cooper To: Craig Straub Cc: Mgs Sent: Thu, Jul 22, 2010 12:30 pm Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down Gravity is plenty, unless you are offroading, a group 26 wedges in there pretty tightly. If you ever end up upside down the battery coming loose is the least of your concerns. --- craigstraub@sbcglobal.net wrote: From: "Craig Straub" To: Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:08:07 -0500 Hi list, I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt. As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery. Any suggestions? Thanks, Craig _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor@aol.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 11:58:31 2010 From: "Hans Duinhoven" To: "Craig Straub" , ">" Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 18:58:41 +0200 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down I did the same. Bought on a car salvage some ex-Toyota battery clamps. I think it were Carina types. Every time my car gets it safety test, it passes! Cheers, Hans 71 BGT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig Straub" To: ">" Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 5:08 AM Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down > Hi list, > > I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt. > > As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery. > > Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > > Craig _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 11:58:38 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 09:42:28 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down Hmm, the problem with reusing the factory holddowns is that there isn't room on the sides for the long bolts. So I don't see how this kit would work either, with my battery. Obviously, batteries vary in dimensions -- mine is not so stuck that it couldn't bounce on a California freeway expansion joint (not to mention some of the rally roads), so I am using a bungee. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/22/10 8:03 AM, Eric Erickson at eric@erickson.on.net wrote: > On 22/07/2010, at 11:13 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > >> Craig, >> >> I use a bungy cord - works fine >> >> > > > Shesh - a few bucks gets you one of these generic battery brackets. > > http://www.haigh.com.au/images/ProductImages/BHS2.jpg > > Punch/drill a hole in either side of the battery box for the uprights to hook > into and you are right. one of these holds my 12v battery in pretty firmly on > a racetrack. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 12:50:56 2010 From: "Chad Cooper" To: Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 10:59:20 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down /SCsSHr: Permission denied _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 13:43:38 2010 From: "riverside" To: , , Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 13:31:11 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down Battery hold downs are neglected safety items. I used to work at a collector car dealership and over half of the "restored" cars we bought were missing the battery hold down. It was the first item we corrected most of the time. To avoid terminals shorting to ground due to unforseen events (accidents, bumps, high G loads) a strong and stable hold down is essential. I wonder how many people without good hold downs are also without fire extinguishers. Losing a nice MG to a fire that resulted from negligence is a real shame. art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Cc: Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 11:45 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down > I know that in colder weather the battery actually shrinks just enough to > be > slightly loose. Also, I was told the story by the folks at Mountjoy in > Hyattsville, MD of a guy going over the very bumpy railroad tracks by that > shop and having the battery pop up enough for both terminals to hit the > metal > cover, and the battery exploded. Perhaps urban myth, but my 2X2 keeps me a > little safer, maybe. > > Jay Donoghue > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Chad Cooper > To: Craig Straub > Cc: Mgs > Sent: Thu, Jul 22, 2010 12:30 pm > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down > > > Gravity is plenty, unless you are offroading, a group 26 wedges in there > pretty > > tightly. If you ever end up upside down the battery coming loose is the > least > > of your concerns. > > > > --- craigstraub@sbcglobal.net wrote: > > > > From: "Craig Straub" > > To: > > Subject: [Mgs] Battery tie down > > Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:08:07 -0500 > > > > Hi list, > > > > I replaced my 2 six volt batteries in my MGB with a single 12 volt. > > > > As of right now I do not see how to tie down or to secure the battery. > > > > Any suggestions? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Craig > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor@aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside@southslope.net _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 14:37:01 2010 From: "Norm 2Bs" To: "MG Digest" Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:42:23 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down Craig: The ONLY advice to follow is Eric's - a secure tie-down AND, insulate the posi terminal with a plastic cap. Norm _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 15:21:03 2010 From: daybell7@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 16:11:12 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder Spring Release Mg'ers, Is there an easy and safe way to compress the spring inorder to release the retainer from the piston on a 1972 MGB brake master cylinder? Thanks in advance. Steve Hughes Gainesville, FL _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 16:02:05 2010 From: Allen Hess To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:07:20 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Battery tie down I used a universal hold down from the local parts store. It fits fore and aft on the short side. Needed to drill the front and rear battery holder for the J bolts. I think it worked out very nice. (sending photos to Craig). Allen Hess > Hmm, the problem with reusing the factory holddowns is that there > isn't room > on the sides for the long bolts. So I don't see how this kit would > work > either, with my battery. Obviously, batteries vary in dimensions -- > mine is > not so stuck that it couldn't bounce on a California freeway > expansion joint > (not to mention some of the rally roads), so I am using a bungee. > > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > >> >> Shesh - a few bucks gets you one of these generic battery brackets. >> >> http://www.haigh.com.au/images/ProductImages/BHS2.jpg >> >> Punch/drill a hole in either side of the battery box for the >> uprights to hook >> into and you are right. one of these holds my 12v battery in >> pretty firmly on >> a racetrack. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 16:46:16 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: daybell7@aol.com Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 14:35:31 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Master Cylinder Spring Release I have always clamped one mounting ear in a vice, and used a long screwdriver to depress the piston while using circlip pliers to remove the retainer. If it turns out you need two hands on the pliers, lean into the screwdriver and hold it in place with your chest. Rick PS a vice and a screwdriver is also how I bench bleed the master before mounting. On Thu, Jul 22, 2010 at 1:11 PM, wrote: > Mg'ers, > > Is there an easy and safe way to compress the spring inorder to release the > retainer from the piston on a 1972 MGB brake master cylinder? > > Thanks in advance. > Steve Hughes > Gainesville, FL > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 18:14:00 2010 From: "Tom Gunderson" To: "Mga List" Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 19:23:35 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] electronic points I am looking for electronic points for my 1957 1500 MGA rst. Any pointers? I have MGA parts to trade. Tom Gunderson _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 19:46:45 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:30:37 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] electronic points Ah, you must mean a "pointless" electronic ignition. The name Pertronix comes to mind. My B has been running on an Allison optical trigger unit for something like 20 years, so I have to give it kudos for reliability. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/22/10 4:23 PM, Tom Gunderson at thgun@comporium.net wrote: > I am looking for electronic points for my 1957 1500 MGA rst. Any pointers? I > have MGA parts to trade. > Tom Gunderson _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 19:47:51 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Mga List Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 19:52:07 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] electronic points /F16i7o: Permission denied _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 21:23:05 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: 4 - MGs Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:12:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] electronic points] << I am looking for electronic points for my 1957 1500 MGA rst. Any pointers? I have MGA parts to trade. >> Only way I know of to achieve the end result I think you want Tom, is send the dizzy to Jeff at Advance and have the thing RE-BUILT and Petronix ADDED. 'Course I can do same thing but then you would actually have to pay ME , not Jeff !! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [with MGA & MGB stuff listed ! ] _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 22 23:42:49 2010 From: don To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:17:39 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a '66 B GT just got sold for $15,100. This has got to be a record, and/or an anomaly. Are prices on the rise? It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all. Does this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable? Perhaps the red colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the details. And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's restoration must have impressed some buyers. They don't call it "resale red" for nothing. $15,100 [] eBay NE Florida 2010-07-15 10:52:47 MG : MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 06:25:49 2010 From: John Elwood To: "mgs@autox.team.net" Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 06:11:51 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks Wow it is pretty, but shame about the no overdrive and black engine. I'd have paid the price if it was restored correctly. -John _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 07:10:34 2010 From: Dan DiBiase To: don , MG List Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 04:52:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks "If" it is exactly as the seller says it is, then I'm not too surprised, as restored tourers have gone for that much plus. The seller seems to be reputable, based on 98% positive feedback. And all you really need is one person who has that to spend, and you have a market! It also looks like there were 2 bidders who took it from around $10k to the final selling price, so there was probably some emotion involved as well ("I'm not gonna let that other guy beat me out!"). Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: don To: mgs@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, July 23, 2010 12:17:39 AM Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a '66 B GT just got sold for $15,100. This has got to be a record, and/or an anomaly. Are prices on the rise? It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all. Does this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable? Perhaps the red colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the details. And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's restoration must have impressed some buyers. They don't call it "resale red" for nothing. $15,100 [] eBay NE Florida 2010-07-15 10:52:47 MG : MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 12:33:05 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 10:22:47 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks I don't think originality has much to do with B pricing, at all. The cars are common, and relatively low-priced (as far as collector cars go), so 98-point concours condition isn't really in demand. People want these cars to drive and enjoy, and they will pay for well-chosen modern conveniences, perceived reliability, and attractive presentation more than for correct Mowog hoses or screwheads. In particular they will pay for someone else having done the rust repair and cosmetics, since they will undoubtedly still be purchasing the labor at a discount. It is the cars in poorer condition (restoration candidates) where originality is more important -- it is much harder to restore a car that has already been through the hands of clever and not-so-clever DPOs. For the most part, people restore these cars for themselves, not for the marketplace, because there isn't really enough upside to break even (as the restorer of this GT may be finding out). -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/22/10 9:17 PM, don at don@napanet.net wrote: > Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a > '66 B GT just got sold for $15,100. This has got to be a record, > and/or an anomaly. Are prices on the rise? > > It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D > gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all. Does > this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable? Perhaps the red > colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the > details. And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's > restoration must have impressed some buyers. > > They don't call it "resale red" for nothing. > > > $15,100 > > [] > > > eBay NE Florida > > 2010-07-15 10:52:47 > > MG > : MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 13:22:52 2010 From: "Ed Woods" To: Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:21:45 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB List, I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy) refills. Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps? The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small piece out! Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 14:12:43 2010 From: don To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 11:47:15 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks I guess where I am confused is why spend all that money without using an early B engine and gearbox to rebuild and install in the car, and detail it so it looks ok, more like it did when new. If I spent $60,000 I would expect the details to be much better. If the car was done on an economy budget, then I could understand the relaxed attitude toward originality. Don Scott 2 MGs 1 TR misc. Japanese cars At 10:22 AM 07/23/2010, Max Heim wrote: >I don't think originality has much to do with B pricing, at all. The cars >are common, and relatively low-priced (as far as collector cars go), so >98-point concours condition isn't really in demand. People want these cars >to drive and enjoy, and they will pay for well-chosen modern conveniences, >perceived reliability, and attractive presentation more than for correct >Mowog hoses or screwheads. In particular they will pay for someone else >having done the rust repair and cosmetics, since they will undoubtedly still >be purchasing the labor at a discount. > >It is the cars in poorer condition (restoration candidates) where >originality is more important -- it is much harder to restore a car that has >already been through the hands of clever and not-so-clever DPOs. For the >most part, people restore these cars for themselves, not for the >marketplace, because there isn't really enough upside to break even (as the >restorer of this GT may be finding out). > >-- > >Max Heim >'66 MGB GHN3L76149 >If you're near Mountain View, CA, >it's the primer red one with chrome wires > >on 7/22/10 9:17 PM, don at don@napanet.net wrote: > > > Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a > > '66 B GT just got sold for $15,100. This has got to be a record, > > and/or an anomaly. Are prices on the rise? > > > > It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D > > gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all. Does > > this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable? Perhaps the red > > colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the > > details. And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's > > restoration must have impressed some buyers. > > > > They don't call it "resale red" for nothing. > > > > > > $15,100 > > > > [] > > > > > > eBay NE Florida > > > > 2010-07-15 10:52:47 > > > > > MG > > : MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/don@napanet.net > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3023 - Release Date: >07/22/10 23:36:00 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 14:58:34 2010 From: saidel@camden.rutgers.edu To: MG List Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:31:55 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Electrified ? Listers, Does anyone know of a web site in which an MGB was turned into an electric-motor MGB? I have a spare(?) 74.5 which has attracted one potential buyer in a year. Maybe I should just play with it and turn it into a commuter car using zero petrol (but lotsa electrons from the electric company). Bill Saidel _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 14:59:24 2010 From: "mgbob@juno.com" To: fogbro1@comcast.net Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:32:51 GMT Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB Yes, there is a better way. Marine stores sell a pump for filling of gearboxes on outboard motors. Pump screws into the top of the oil bottle and it works a treat--doesn't spill when bottle falls over, pumps out the entire bottle. Good deal all 'round. I think it was $5.99 I paid for mine. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Ed Woods" To: Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:21:45 -0400 List, I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy) refills. Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps? The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small piece out! Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 14:59:24 2010 From: atweditor@aol.com To: fogbro1@comcast.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:35:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB Ed, Congrats on getting the OD fixed. That's huge! Methinks you're going about the oil filling the wrong way. I've got a '72, but it is just like my old '68 in this regard. The oil filler can be accessed from inside of the car. There's a hole on top of the transmission tunnel behind the radio area, under the dash, reachable from the passenger side of the car. It's not an easy fit for normal hands, but it is doable. You have to pull the carpet out of the way, find the hole, which should be covered by a damn hard rubber plug. Pull that out, and you'll find the loopy end of the dipstick. Pull that out. Now here's where an oil pump comes in handy. You can try a funnel and a hose, but if you slip you end up with a lot of oil inside your cockpit. I got a fairly cheap pump from a standard automotive store that works fine, but slow. Make sure, however, that the hose is going into the dipstick hole and doesn't slip off the side of the tranny or you'll do a great job of oiling the floor of your garage or driveway. Jay Donoghue 72 MGB-GT 66 Mustang -----Original Message----- From: Ed Woods To: mgs Sent: Fri, Jul 23, 2010 3:24 pm Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB List, I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy) refills. Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps? The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small piece out! Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor@aol.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 14:59:35 2010 From: Peter Caldwell To: "Ed Woods" , Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:37:09 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB There are bottle pumps available. The most expensive are from marine supply places for lower units. Less expensive are from farm supply places. West Marine online should show something. Peter C == At 01:21 PM 7/23/2010, Ed Woods wrote: >List, > >I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox >on my '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was >on me and the floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with >the car on jackstands and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips >from under the car for (messy) refills. > >Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it >to someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps? > >The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring >has fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay >left that small piece out! > >Ed Woods _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 14:59:40 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 12:48:28 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB I use one of the hand pumps that come with those gallon jugs of diff oil (or are available at auto parts stores), that threads onto the neck of the oil jug, with a length of rubber hose. The biggest problem as far as I am concerned is ensuring that the car is level. This is hard to do up on 4 jack stands, when the adjustment on each is in 1-inch increments. I have tried jacking up one side to get the plug out and insert the hose, then letting it back down on its wheels, and pumping until I get overflow (this is a side filler). Accurate but messy (cardboard and a drip pan recommended). At least you don't have to do the complete fill very often. Usually the top-off just involves a few squirts. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/23/10 11:21 AM, Ed Woods at fogbro1@comcast.net wrote: > List, > > I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72 > MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the > floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands > and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy) > refills. > > Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to > someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps? > > The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has > fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small > piece out! > > Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 15:01:21 2010 From: atweditor@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:55:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB Ed, Congrats on getting the OD fixed. That's huge! Methinks you're going about the oil filling the wrong way. I've got a '72, but it is just like my old '68 in this regard. The oil filler can be accessed from inside of the car. There's a hole on top of the transmission tunnel behind the radio area, under the dash, reachable from the passenger side of the car. It's not an easy fit for normal hands, but it is doable. You have to pull the carpet out of the way, find the hole, which should be covered by a damn hard rubber plug. Pull that out, and you'll find the loopy end of the dipstick. Pull that out. Now here's where an oil pump comes in handy. You can try a funnel and a hose, but if you slip you end up with a lot of oil inside your cockpit. I got a fairly cheap pump from a standard automotive store that works fine, but slow. Make sure, however, that the hose is going into the dipstick hole and doesn't slip off the side of the tranny or you'll do a great job of oiling the floor of your garage or driveway. Jay Donoghue 72 MGB-GT 66 Mustang -----Original Message----- From: Ed Woods To: mgs Sent: Fri, Jul 23, 2010 3:24 pm Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB List, I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy) refills. Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps? The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small piece out! Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor@aol.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 15:44:51 2010 From: To: mgs@autox.team.net, don Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 16:38:51 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks The $$$ claimed to be spent on resto don't matter. The issue is what is the car worth? IMO $15K is a bargain. You can not do this car to that appearance for less....Mel 71BGT ---- don wrote: > I guess where I am confused is why spend all that money without using > an early B engine and gearbox to rebuild and install in the car, and > detail it so it looks ok, more like it did when new. If I spent > $60,000 I would expect the details to be much better. If the car was > done on an economy budget, then I could understand the relaxed > attitude toward originality. > Don Scott > 2 MGs > 1 TR > misc. Japanese cars > > > At 10:22 AM 07/23/2010, Max Heim wrote: > >I don't think originality has much to do with B pricing, at all. The cars > >are common, and relatively low-priced (as far as collector cars go), so > >98-point concours condition isn't really in demand. People want these cars > >to drive and enjoy, and they will pay for well-chosen modern conveniences, > >perceived reliability, and attractive presentation more than for correct > >Mowog hoses or screwheads. In particular they will pay for someone else > >having done the rust repair and cosmetics, since they will undoubtedly still > >be purchasing the labor at a discount. > > > >It is the cars in poorer condition (restoration candidates) where > >originality is more important -- it is much harder to restore a car that has > >already been through the hands of clever and not-so-clever DPOs. For the > >most part, people restore these cars for themselves, not for the > >marketplace, because there isn't really enough upside to break even (as the > >restorer of this GT may be finding out). > > > >-- > > > >Max Heim > >'66 MGB GHN3L76149 > >If you're near Mountain View, CA, > >it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > >on 7/22/10 9:17 PM, don at don@napanet.net wrote: > > > > > Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a > > > '66 B GT just got sold for $15,100. This has got to be a record, > > > and/or an anomaly. Are prices on the rise? > > > > > > It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D > > > gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all. Does > > > this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable? Perhaps the red > > > colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the > > > details. And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's > > > restoration must have impressed some buyers. > > > > > > They don't call it "resale red" for nothing. > > > > > > > > > $15,100 > > > > > > [] > > > > > > > > > eBay NE Florida > > > > > > 2010-07-15 10:52:47 > > > > > > > > MG > > > : MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Mgs@autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/don@napanet.net > > > > > >No virus found in this incoming message. > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > >Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3023 - Release Date: > >07/22/10 23:36:00 > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/melfrankus@carolina.rr.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 15:46:13 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 13:51:01 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks I don't understand your objection to the engine (well, I understand YOUR objection, but I don't agree that it's a detriment in the marketplace). It's a B engine -- that's all this market cares about. The 4-synchro tranny would be considered an improvement, not a liability, along with negative ground and the dual circuit MC. Though I do think they should have installed the air cleaner connector pipe. This is definitely not a finicky sort of restoration by an old-line MG specialist, but it would seem to be representative of the sort of thing one sees in those televised big-buck auctions -- nice paint (red, of course), generally shiny and well-presented, albeit with lots of shortcuts or not-quite-there details that are apparent to an expert examination, but not necessarily deal-breakers to the general public. I guess what I am suggesting is that the level of detail that you (or I) would like to see is not a value proposition to the "spec" restorer. "Good enough" so long as it is attractive in pictures is all they are shooting for. I seriously doubt that anyone intentionally invested $60K in this MG. More likely it was a stalled restoration project that the shop seized on a mechanic's lien, then quickly finished off at their own expense to make it sellable (hence the inconsistent level of finish). -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/23/10 11:47 AM, don at don@napanet.net wrote: > I guess where I am confused is why spend all that money without using > an early B engine and gearbox to rebuild and install in the car, and > detail it so it looks ok, more like it did when new. If I spent > $60,000 I would expect the details to be much better. If the car was > done on an economy budget, then I could understand the relaxed > attitude toward originality. > Don Scott > 2 MGs > 1 TR > misc. Japanese cars > > > At 10:22 AM 07/23/2010, Max Heim wrote: >> I don't think originality has much to do with B pricing, at all. The cars >> are common, and relatively low-priced (as far as collector cars go), so >> 98-point concours condition isn't really in demand. People want these cars >> to drive and enjoy, and they will pay for well-chosen modern conveniences, >> perceived reliability, and attractive presentation more than for correct >> Mowog hoses or screwheads. In particular they will pay for someone else >> having done the rust repair and cosmetics, since they will undoubtedly still >> be purchasing the labor at a discount. >> >> It is the cars in poorer condition (restoration candidates) where >> originality is more important -- it is much harder to restore a car that has >> already been through the hands of clever and not-so-clever DPOs. For the >> most part, people restore these cars for themselves, not for the >> marketplace, because there isn't really enough upside to break even (as the >> restorer of this GT may be finding out). >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> >> on 7/22/10 9:17 PM, don at don@napanet.net wrote: >> >>> Watching eBay in my search for an early B roadster, I noticed that a >>> '66 B GT just got sold for $15,100. This has got to be a record, >>> and/or an anomaly. Are prices on the rise? >>> >>> It would be one thing if the car had the original type engine and O/D >>> gearbox, but this car was not redone to original spec at all. Does >>> this mean that buyers are not that knowledgeable? Perhaps the red >>> colour and wire wheels just do the trick, and curb appeal trumps the >>> details. And the $60,000 quoted as being spent on the car's >>> restoration must have impressed some buyers. >>> >>> They don't call it "resale red" for nothing. >>> >>> >>> $15,100 >>> >>> [] >>> >>> >>> eBay NE Florida >>> >>> 2010-07-15 10:52:47 >>> >>> >> M>> G >>> : MGB MGB GT 1966 MGB GT Red BETTER THAN NEW Over $60k Invested _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 15:46:44 2010 From: Dan DiBiase To: Ed Woods , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 13:57:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB I have heard of people that get a long length of hose and feed it into the hole on the side of the gearbox from the engine compartment, then use a funnel to pour the oil in. Just need to keep peering under the car for when the oil starts to leak out of the filler hole. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase To: mgs@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, July 23, 2010 2:21:45 PM Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB List, I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and the floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on jackstands and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the car for (messy) refills. Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps? The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that small piece out! Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 16:27:50 2010 From: "Eugene Balinski" To: Peter Caldwell ,"Ed Woods" Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 17:08:40 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB I picked one up from my local auto supply store. I have one that fits the individual bottle and the gallon bottle. Gene 80 B On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:37:09 -0500 Peter Caldwell wrote: > There are bottle pumps available. The most expensive are > from marine supply places for lower units. Less expensive > are from farm supply places. West Marine online should > show something. > Peter C > == > At 01:21 PM 7/23/2010, Ed Woods wrote: > >List, > > > >I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the > o/d gearbox on my '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A > good deal of the oil was on me and the floor. Even less > fun when you're trying to do it with the car on > jackstands and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips > from under the car for (messy) refills. > > > >Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift > or taking it to someone else? A pump of some kind > perhaps? > > > >The only good news is that the addition of a non return > valve spring has fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who > sold it to me on Ebay left that small piece out! > > > >Ed Woods _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eugeneb@nni.com --------------------------------------------------------------------- Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 17:13:24 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:03:18 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electrified ? You might try googling Stanford Electric Car Club (or something like that) -- they have run an electric Midget for many years. There is also a garage somewhere in the Bay Area that specializes in converting older cars, that may have some info online. Or some listers may recall a self-published novel on the subject of an electric or fuel cell MGB -- a little short of technical detail, though. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/23/10 12:31 PM, saidel@camden.rutgers.edu at saidel@camden.rutgers.edu wrote: > Listers, > Does anyone know of a web site in which an MGB was turned into an > electric-motor MGB? I have a spare(?) 74.5 which has attracted one > potential buyer in a year. Maybe I should just play with it and turn > it into a commuter car using zero petrol (but lotsa electrons from the > electric company). > Bill Saidel _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 17:55:20 2010 From: gordies garage To: saidel@camden.rutgers.edu Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 18:46:51 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electrified ? a google search for electric mgb turned up several projects and a supposed how to, although I didn't look. Good Luck! Gordie saidel@camden.rutgers.edu wrote: > Listers, > Does anyone know of a web site in which an MGB was turned into an > electric-motor MGB? I have a spare(?) 74.5 which has attracted one > potential buyer in a year. Maybe I should just play with it and turn > it into a commuter car using zero petrol (but lotsa electrons from the > electric company). > Bill Saidel > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 5307 (20100723) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 17:56:10 2010 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 16:54:58 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB I'm with Jay on this one. That is how I did my '70 B. On 07/23/2010 01:55 PM, atweditor@aol.com wrote: > Ed, > > Congrats on getting the OD fixed. That's huge! > > Methinks you're going about the oil filling the wrong way. I've got a '72, but > it is just like my old '68 in this regard. The oil filler can be accessed from > inside of the car. There's a hole on top of the transmission tunnel behind the > radio area, under the dash, reachable from the passenger side of the car. It's > not an easy fit for normal hands, but it is doable. You have to pull the > carpet out of the way, find the hole, which should be covered by a damn hard > rubber plug. Pull that out, and you'll find the loopy end of the dipstick. > Pull that out. Now here's where an oil pump comes in handy. You can try a > funnel and a hose, but if you slip you end up with a lot of oil inside your > cockpit. I got a fairly cheap pump from a standard automotive store that works > fine, but slow. Make sure, however, that the hose is going into the dipstick > hole and doesn't slip off the side of the tranny or you'll do a great job of > oiling the floor of your garage or driveway. > > Jay Donoghue > 72 MGB-GT > 66 Mustang _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 19:28:49 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 17:38:15 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB Now that I think of it, I used a funnel and hose from under the hood when I had a top-filler tranny. Pull the dipstick, but run the hose down past the back of the engine. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 7/23/10 3:54 PM, Andrew B. Lundgren at lundgren@byu.net wrote: > I'm with Jay on this one. That is how I did my '70 B. > > On 07/23/2010 01:55 PM, atweditor@aol.com wrote: >> Ed, >> >> Congrats on getting the OD fixed. That's huge! >> >> Methinks you're going about the oil filling the wrong way. I've got a '72, >> but >> it is just like my old '68 in this regard. The oil filler can be accessed >> from >> inside of the car. There's a hole on top of the transmission tunnel behind >> the >> radio area, under the dash, reachable from the passenger side of the car. >> It's >> not an easy fit for normal hands, but it is doable. You have to pull the >> carpet out of the way, find the hole, which should be covered by a damn hard >> rubber plug. Pull that out, and you'll find the loopy end of the dipstick. >> Pull that out. Now here's where an oil pump comes in handy. You can try a >> funnel and a hose, but if you slip you end up with a lot of oil inside your >> cockpit. I got a fairly cheap pump from a standard automotive store that >> works >> fine, but slow. Make sure, however, that the hose is going into the dipstick >> hole and doesn't slip off the side of the tranny or you'll do a great job of >> oiling the floor of your garage or driveway. >> >> Jay Donoghue >> 72 MGB-GT >> 66 Mustang _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 20:16:37 2010 From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" To: "'don'" , Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:51:13 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks I'd like to hear your opinions on a fair market value for an MGC GT done to similar spec.... -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of don Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 1:47 PM To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] B GT brings big bucks I guess where I am confused is why spend all that money without using an early B engine and gearbox to rebuild and install in the car, and detail it so it looks ok, more like it did when new. If I spent $60,000 I would expect the details to be much better. If the car was done on an economy budget, then I could understand the relaxed attitude toward originality. Don Scott _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 20:20:56 2010 From: Glenn Schnittke To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 20:27:13 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electrified ? Lotsa disposable income, eh? > Subject: [Mgs] Electrified ? > To: MG List > Message-ID: > <20100723153155.d8wheor7ggsg0ow4@webmail.camden.rutgers.edu> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; DelSp="Yes"; > format="flowed" > > Listers, > Does anyone know of a web site in which an MGB was turned into an > electric-motor MGB? I have a spare(?) 74.5 which has attracted one > potential buyer in a year. Maybe I should just play with it and turn > it into a commuter car using zero petrol (but lotsa electrons from the > electric company). > Bill Saidel -- Nil desperandum Glenn Schnittke ----------------------- g.schnittke@comcast.net Home - 615-837-5883 Cell - 615-319-5534 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 22:29:20 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Glenn Schnittke Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 20:26:10 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electrified ? There are three parameters with electric cars. 1. Low price 2.Good acceleration 3. Acceptable range You may choose any two. Rick On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 6:27 PM, Glenn Schnittke wrote: > Lotsa disposable income, eh? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 23 23:12:19 2010 From: "riverside" To: "Ed Woods" , Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 23:07:41 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB Hi Ed, your 72 B should have a dipstick / filler hole accessed by removing a rubber plug located on the right side of the tunnel just forward of the radio/consul brace. I use some vinyl tubing attached to a funnel. Hang the funnel from something convienant, make the tubing just long enough to fit into the filler hole with no sags, fill thefunnel and go work on somthing else. Refill the funnel everytime I walk by. Either measure out the volume of fluid you want to put in, or ifthe fill hole is on the side of the Trans, set a catch pan under it. When it runs out of the hole, it is full. Works well with differetials too. Ron Sanborn. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 1:21 PM Subject: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB > List, > > I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my > '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. A good deal of the oil was on me and > the floor. Even less fun when you're trying to do it with the car on > jackstands and ramps. 3 quarts also necessitated 6 trips from under the > car for (messy) refills. > > Does anyone have a better method short of buying a lift or taking it to > someone else? A pump of some kind perhaps? > > The only good news is that the addition of a non return valve spring has > fixed the overdrive! Guess the guy who sold it to me on Ebay left that > small piece out! > > Ed Woods _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside@southslope.net _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 24 04:08:03 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "riverside" , "Ed Woods" Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 09:58:55 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB For a 72 if you fill until it runs out of the hole you have way way too much! This method of judging the quantity is only suitable for the side-fill gearboxes on rubber bumper cars (and diffs, of course). PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Hi Ed, your 72 B should have a dipstick / filler hole ... > When it runs out of the hole, it is full. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 24 04:09:41 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Ed Woods" , Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 09:54:22 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB I just used a short length of 1/2" or so hose which made a snug fit on the end of the bendy pipe that comes with 1L containers of gearbox or diff oil http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/goc4.jpg. Both my top-fill 73 and my side-fill 75 were refilled from the right-hand footwell which needs a much shorter length of pipe than if doing it from the engine compartment, the latter cars still have the rubber plug on top of the tunnel where the dip-stick used to be. Wise to put plenty of paper down over carpets though. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I've just had the unpleasant experience of filling the o/d gearbox on my > '72 MGB with an old Sears oil gun. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 24 04:10:09 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Richard Ewald" , "Glenn Schnittke" Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 09:56:05 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electrified ? Or in the case of most of them, only 2. or 3. ----- Original Message ----- > There are three parameters with electric cars. > 1. Low price > 2.Good acceleration > 3. Acceptable range > You may choose any two. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 24 06:53:54 2010 From: daybell7@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 08:01:23 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Brake Master Cylinder Spring Release Mg'ers, What is the best way to compress the spring to release the retainer on a 1972 MGB brake master cylinder? Thanks in advance. Steve Hughes Gainesville, FL _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 24 18:41:13 2010 From: don To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 16:48:31 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine blocks >Now that I am retired, I am going through the car junk accumulation >of many years. I have seven MGB blocks, all with rusty bores, some >with cranks still in them. They were stored inside, but time takes >its toll. Are these boat anchors? I have MGB suspension pieces, a >complete rear end and misc. other junk. How in the world does a >person figure out what to keep and what to discard? I have a junk >man coming here on Monday, and I don't know whether to give 'em to >him for scrap or not. Any advice as to what this stuff is worth, or >if it's worth keeping? >Several years ago I had a yard full (well, 3 actually) of early >MGBs. I sold them for next to nothing. Now that I am older and >wiser (?), I want an early B roadster and >they are scarce and expensive. I regret selling them now. Will I >regret throwing away old engine blocks? Don Scott Calistoga CA 2 MGs 1 TR Misc. Japanese cars _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 24 20:10:18 2010 From: Glenn Schnittke To: Paul Hunt Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 20:09:28 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Electrified ? Old stagehand saying; Cheap, quick, good. Pick two. Can't have three. Paul Hunt wrote: > Or in the case of most of them, only 2. or 3. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> There are three parameters with electric cars. >> 1. Low price >> 2.Good acceleration >> 3. Acceptable range >> You may choose any two. > > > > -- Nil desperandum Glenn Schnittke ----------------------- g.schnittke@comcast.net Home - 615-837-5883 Cell - 615-319-5534 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 24 21:39:05 2010 From: "Ray Graham" To: Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 21:14:13 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light Hey Folks, Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is glowing when the engine is running. Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be? Thanks, Ray Graham _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 24 23:10:15 2010 From: Doug Mak To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 21:02:46 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light Most likely your charging system is failing.. When the dummy light is on, it means you're consuming more battery juice than generating. doug On 24 Jul 2010, at 19:14, Ray Graham wrote: > Hey Folks, > Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is > glowing when > the engine is running. Anybody got any ideas what the problem could > be? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 24 23:52:07 2010 From: "Steve Gorr" To: "'Ray Graham'" , Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 23:29:11 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light Blown alternator diode, loose fan belt are the first that come to mind. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ray Graham Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 9:14 PM To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light Hey Folks, Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is glowing when the engine is running. Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be? Thanks, Ray Graham _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/sgorr2@comcast.net No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3025 - Release Date: 07/24/10 01:36:00 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 25 03:03:55 2010 From: "Bert Palte" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:32:10 +0200 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light Hi Ray, Otherwise, probably worn-out carbon brushes. BTDT, several times, several cars. Cheap parts, price only the single-digit range. If it's a Lucas 16ACR, the Lucas part number is 54219368. (LAX 31-32). IIRC, you'll really need a 1/4" socket to take out the black alternator cover and to remove the brush holder. Good luck Bert. -------- Original-Nachricht -------- > Datum: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 23:29:11 -0500 > Von: "Steve Gorr" > An: "\'Ray Graham\'" , mgs@autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light > Blown alternator diode, loose fan belt are the first that come to mind. > > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Ray Graham > Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 9:14 PM > To: mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light > > Hey Folks, > Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is glowing > when > the engine is running. Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be? > > Thanks, > Ray Graham > _ -- GRATIS fC To: "Ray Graham" , Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:26:27 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light Not charging. The alternator plug can't have fallen out or that would stop the warning light glowing at all. Measure the voltage at the brown wire at the alternator plug with the ignition off and engine stopped. If you see 12v, then the problem is almost certainly inside the alternator. But if you *don't* see 12v then the thick brown charging wire between the alternator and solenoid is either broken or disconnected. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is glowing > when > the engine is running. Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 25 07:35:11 2010 From: daybell7@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 08:54:32 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Brake Master Cylinder Spring Release It's on the 1968 not the 1972. Different MC. Thanks. Steve H. Mg'ers, What is the best way to compress the spring to release the retainer on a 1972 MGB brake master cylinder? Thanks in advance. Steve Hughes Gainesville, FL _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 25 09:39:46 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: , Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 15:28:56 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fwd: Brake Master Cylinder Spring Release I presume you mean the single-circuit master used on Mk1 cars, not used on American spec after that? From August 68 to the end of the 74 model year American cars used the same unboosted dual circuit master, AFAIK. For the single-circuit master you simply remove the circlip and the piston, spring and seals come out. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > It's on the 1968 not the 1972. Different MC. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 25 10:54:06 2010 From: "Councill, David" To: don , Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:04:39 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB engine blocks I think there is some value. I remember buying an engine block about 20 years ago because I needed the crank. They can only be reground so many times. So I am sure someone has a need. Early engine blocks (18G) may have some value due to a limited supply, particularly the three main bearing engines. The rear axle, if it is a banjo type, is scarce, particularly the original wire wheel version. I could use one of those except I am probably about 1500 miles away. There are salvage yards that specialize in English cars that could give you an idea of value or maybe offer some money for them. My son bartered some of his excess MG parts to British Auto Works (Portland, OR) in exchange for credit, disposing of parts from a 1972 MG for parts he needs restoring a 66 B. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of don Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 5:49 PM To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] MGB engine blocks >Now that I am retired, I am going through the car junk accumulation of >many years. I have seven MGB blocks, all with rusty bores, some with >cranks still in them. They were stored inside, but time takes its >toll. Are these boat anchors? I have MGB suspension pieces, a >complete rear end and misc. other junk. How in the world does a person >figure out what to keep and what to discard? I have a junk man coming >here on Monday, and I don't know whether to give 'em to him for scrap >or not. Any advice as to what this stuff is worth, or if it's worth >keeping? >Several years ago I had a yard full (well, 3 actually) of early MGBs. >I sold them for next to nothing. Now that I am older and wiser (?), I >want an early B roadster and they are scarce and expensive. I regret >selling them now. Will I regret throwing away old engine blocks? Don Scott Calistoga CA 2 MGs 1 TR Misc. Japanese cars _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 25 12:05:30 2010 From: "Councill, David" To: , Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 11:25:35 -0600 Subject: [Mgs] front hub reassembly I am about to change the hubs on my 64B. The proper way would be to use shims to "give slightly excessive end float" and "measure the end float with a dial gauge" (quotes from my Haynes manual). My Bentley manual says "using a clock gauge...". Any suggestions on how this really works and what tool I may need to measure this when I assemble the hubs and bearings (disc wheels)? David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 25 13:49:15 2010 From: gordies garage To: "Councill, David" Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 14:59:11 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] front hub reassembly IIRC, you can do it without the gauge by a method of adding/removing shims. Too few, or too many (not sure which) will cause the wheel to lock and not spin when the nut is tightened. Adding/removing shims until the thinnist shim possible allows the wheel to spin. Of course, this requires a good selection of the different size shims and I'm sure a Moss catalog will give you the sizes available. I'm sure others are aware of this method and probably have a much better explaination. Gordie '62 MGA '67 BGT Councill, David wrote: > I am about to change the hubs on my 64B. The proper way would be to use > shims to "give slightly excessive end float" and "measure the end float > with a dial gauge" (quotes from my Haynes manual). My Bentley manual > says "using a clock gauge...". Any suggestions on how this really works > and what tool I may need to measure this when I assemble the hubs and > bearings (disc wheels)? > > > > David Councill > > 64 B > > 67 BGT > > 72 B > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5311 (20100725) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 25 14:19:58 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: mgs@autox.team.net, MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 14:25:28 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] front hub reassembly /dKgSLS: Permission denied _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 25 16:05:05 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: 4 - MGs Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 16:07:34 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] front hub reassembly] Yep, Gordie !! If I hadn't tried to send in HTML I woulda beat ya too it!! << Any suggestions on how this really works and what tool I may need to measure this when I assemble the hubs and bearings (disc wheels)? >> "Various Articles" bottom left IIRC is a "How to...." I have used for decades. And I stock a goodly # of required shims along with bearing & deals. Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [with MGA & MGB stuff listed ! ] _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 26 02:50:22 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: , Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 09:00:03 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] front hub reassembly The end-float should be .002" to .004" which on the face of it needs a dial-gauge, but you can get the same accuracy without. Presumably you are installing new bearings to the replacement hubs, if so install everything except the shims and tighten the hub nut until you can feel the hub binding, and this seats the outer parts of the bearings in the hub. Don't grease the races until you have determined the shims required as it is cleaner and easier without. Changing the hubs you almost certainly *will* need to reshim, although when changing just bearings maybe not, I didn't. Shims are available in .003, .005 and .010 sizes, plus there should be a .030 shim in there, get a selection of spares of the three smaller sizes. The objective is to juggle shims until you end up with one set (which go between the spacer and the outer bearing) that gives no perceptible play, and one set .001 thicker that gives barely perceptible play, and add a .003 to the *thinner* set. The grease the races by pressing grease in with your thumb, or injecting it with the body of a hypodermic syringe, but *only* from one side and keep doing it until it comes out of the other side. Don't be tempted to press it in from both sides and save time or there will be air-spaces in the middle. Grease the lip of the oil seal, and pack the cavity of the oil seal (which should be facing into the bearing), but don't pack the middle part i.e. the large spacer. Refit everything, including the outer sealing washer, and tighten the hub nut to 40 ft lb. Then tighten further until the first set of split-pin holes line up, which should happen before 70 ft lb, and insert the split pin. Check the hub rotates freely and there is still just perceptible play. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I am about to change the hubs on my 64B. The proper way would be to use > shims to "give slightly excessive end float" and "measure the end float > with a dial gauge" (quotes from my Haynes manual). My Bentley manual > says "using a clock gauge...". Any suggestions on how this really works > and what tool I may need to measure this when I assemble the hubs and > bearings (disc wheels)? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 26 05:17:49 2010 From: "W. David Houser" To: MGList List Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 06:59:30 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Delavan MGA GT Hope to see several of you up there. Dave Houser _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 26 08:44:37 2010 From: atweditor@aol.com To: paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk, runner01@wowway.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 10:25:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light I agree with all that say you have a major charging issue. I had an alternator (nearly brand-new, too) fail during a cross-country trip and managed around 300 miles on battery alone, although during the last few miles the OD wouldn't stay engaged and the lights were real dim. Jay Donoghue -----Original Message----- From: Paul Hunt To: Ray Graham ; mgs Sent: Sun, Jul 25, 2010 6:37 am Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light Not charging. The alternator plug can't have fallen out or that would stop the warning light glowing at all. Measure the voltage at the brown wire at the alternator plug with the ignition off and engine stopped. If you see 12v, then the problem is almost certainly inside the alternator. But if you *don't* see 12v then the thick brown charging wire between the alternator and solenoid is either broken or disconnected. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Jumped in the 1980 MGB today for run and the ignition light is glowing > when > the engine is running. Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor@aol.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 26 17:51:10 2010 From: "Ray Graham" To: Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 18:45:21 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Ignition Light Folks, Thanks all who responded. I have 12 volts on the brown wires at the plug to the alternator. The plan would be to pull it and get it checked at my local AutoZone, I have heard they can do that? There is a local shop that rebuilds alternators or would I be better off just buying a new one from Moss, @$125.00 plus shipping? Thanks for the help, Ray Graham _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 26 19:04:42 2010 From: "Ed Woods" To: "Ray Graham" , Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 20:59:09 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light Ray, I bought a rebuilt Lucas alternator for my daughter's '72 at AutoZone last year. It was around $70 with a lifetime guarantee. Looked like new. Performs like new. Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 26 19:19:36 2010 From: "Ed Woods" To: Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 21:10:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Filling gearbox on an MGB List, Thanks for all the replys on my gearbox query. I mistakenly assumed that it was common knowledge that my '72 had a side fill box. At least the overdrive gearbox that I installed during this extended recondioning is a side fill unit. I just checked the original, non o/d 'box and as you all know, it's a top fill! So much for my lack of familiarity with MGB changes. I will find a pump, as suggested, for next time. Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 27 01:40:09 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 16:39:51 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light Amazing, especially with lights on! I only managed about 30 in an 80s car with an early engine management system and it started running rough, no lights. I always knew MGBs were 10 times better than modern cars ... PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... I had an alternator (nearly brand-new, too) fail during a cross-country trip and managed around 300 miles on battery alone, although during the last few miles the OD wouldn't stay engaged and the lights were real dim. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 27 02:20:42 2010 From: "Bert Palte" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 10:11:17 +0200 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light BTDT, once, when I was in Luxemburg with the MGB, the alternator light indicated that there was a malfunction. I switched off the light and managed to get home, although, when I had to fill up the petrol tank, the car had to be push started. This was a 350 km drive. Bert -------- Original-Nachricht -------- > Datum: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 16:39:51 +0100 > Von: "Paul Hunt" > An: mgs@autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light > Amazing, especially with lights on! I only managed about 30 in an 80s car > with an early engine management system and it started running rough, no > lights. I always knew MGBs were 10 times better than modern cars ... > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- > ... I had an alternator (nearly brand-new, too) fail during a > cross-country > trip and managed around 300 miles on battery alone, although during the > last > few miles the OD wouldn't stay engaged and the lights were real dim. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte@gmx.net -- Neu: GMX De-Mail - Einfach wie E-Mail, sicher wie ein Brief! Jetzt De-Mail-Adresse reservieren: http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/demail _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 27 02:21:08 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Ray Graham" , Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 08:51:08 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light With a repair only the repair is (probably) guaranteed, but the rest of the components will be untouched and could have been stressed by the fault. A rebuilt unit is hopefully what is says, with all the usual wear points checked/replaced, and should come with a full guarantee. Personally I would go for an exchange unit. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... There is a local shop that > rebuilds alternators or would I be better off just buying a new one ... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 27 02:51:25 2010 From: Mike Janacek To: Ray Graham Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 04:51:38 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light Yes, Autozone should be able to test your alternator and supply a rebuilt one if you desire. Also you might want to price check other auto parts stores in your area and look on Ebay. Mike Ray Graham wrote: > Folks, > Thanks all who responded. I have 12 volts on the brown wires at the plug to > the alternator. The plan would be to pull it and get it checked at my local > AutoZone, I have heard they can do that? There is a local shop that > rebuilds alternators or would I be better off just buying a new one from > Moss, @$125.00 plus shipping? > > Thanks for the help, > Ray Graham _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 27 07:22:01 2010 From: atweditor@aol.com To: paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 09:22:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light Not only the lights, but the wipers, too, for a while, and the radio, with each being turned off as I neared my destination. I was driving Savannah-D.C., and somewhere midway on the trip the light began to glow. Thinking back, I suspect I still had some power coming from the alternator. When I finally arrived, the battery was so dead I couldn't even jump start the car and I had to tow it to good old Manhattan Motors, who fixed it as it was still under warranty in 1969. However, Manhattan, being the swine they were, also said they did a tune-up (which I had just done in Savannah before leaving) and wanted to charge me tons for that work. I hit the roof and they moved the conversation into a back room. There they cut the charge in half and I, being a callow 21-year-old freshly returned from 'Nam, caved and paid it, the scum. Jay -----Original Message----- From: Paul Hunt To: mgs Sent: Tue, Jul 27, 2010 3:41 am Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light Amazing, especially with lights on! I only managed about 30 in an 80s car with an early engine management system and it started running rough, no lights. I always knew MGBs were 10 times better than modern cars ... PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- ... I had an alternator (nearly brand-new, too) fail during a cross-country trip and managed around 300 miles on battery alone, although during the last few miles the OD wouldn't stay engaged and the lights were real dim. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/atweditor@aol.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 27 09:23:02 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 08:18:59 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light You don't have to pull the alternator to get it checked. At least, my local Kragens (O'Reilly/Checker) will test it on the car. on 7/26/10 4:45 PM, Ray Graham at runner01@wowway.com wrote: > Folks, > Thanks all who responded. I have 12 volts on the brown wires at the plug to > the alternator. The plan would be to pull it and get it checked at my local > AutoZone, I have heard they can do that? There is a local shop that > rebuilds alternators or would I be better off just buying a new one from > Moss, @$125.00 plus shipping? > > Thanks for the help, > Ray Graham -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires Max Heim mvheim@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 27 19:09:31 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: MG List Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 20:07:46 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light << At least, my local Kragens (O'Reilly/Checker) will test it on the car. >> Advance and A.Z. also, at least around here. Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com [with LOTS of 1st time offers for Listers in the For Sale areas which ARE soon to go to fleabay -:(.] [with MGA & MGB stuff listed ! ] _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 28 10:42:44 2010 From: "Eric J Russell" To: , "Eric and Anna Langenfeld" Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:41:55 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] 1978 MGB for sale We'll be selling our '78 MGB. If you know anyone who'd like a well sorted 'driver', pass the word: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1867887028.html Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 28 15:53:33 2010 From: mgmagnette@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 17:47:39 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] British Car Photography Website This is a commercial site, but the pictures are STUNNING... mostly from BMHIT http://www.motorgraphs.com/index.php I'm a Farina Magnette fan, so seeing 4-5 period photos I'd never seen was very interesting to me. -John _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 29 05:26:03 2010 From: Charley & Peggy Robinson To: Ray Graham Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 06:19:34 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ignition Light Have Autozone check it on the car. If it's not working buy a rebuilt Duralast ( it's what' on my B) from them and have a lifetime guarantee. CR On 7/26/2010 6:45 PM, Ray Graham wrote: > Folks, > Thanks all who responded. I have 12 volts on the brown wires at the plug to > the alternator. The plan would be to pull it and get it checked at my local > AutoZone, I have heard they can do that? There is a local shop that > rebuilds alternators or would I be better off just buying a new one from > Moss, @$125.00 plus shipping? > > Thanks for the help, > Ray Graham _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 29 07:59:44 2010 From: "Eugene Balinski" To: Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 10:00:11 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush All, I would like to do a cooling system flush on my 80B. I plan to use either the Prestone "Super" Radiator Cleaner, or "Super" Radiator Flush. Does anyone have experience with either of these products before ? Any issues, especially with clogging the heater core ? Any other cooling/radiator flush issues that I should be aware of with ? Thanks, Gene 80 B --------------------------------------------------------------------- Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 29 08:13:56 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Eugene Balinski Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 07:14:43 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush 1. Make sure you dispose of the old coolant properly. wipe up or hose down any coolant spills, antifreeze is poisonous and tastes sweet, so small animals like your dog or cat will drink it and die. Check local laws, it may be illegal to dump old antifreeze in the sewer or storm drain. 2. flushes are caustic, wear gloves and eye protection. Wear old clothes, you will probably wind up getting wet somewhere along the line. 3. It may take several batches of fresh water to get all of the flush out. 4. Pulling the t-stat before doing the flush can make the job easier, replace it when you are done. That is what comes off the top of my head, good luck and have fun. Rick On Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 7:00 AM, Eugene Balinski wrote: > All, > > I would like to do a cooling system flush on my 80B. I > plan to use either the Prestone "Super" Radiator Cleaner, > or "Super" Radiator Flush. > > Does anyone have experience with either of these products > before ? Any issues, especially with clogging the heater > core ? Any other cooling/radiator flush issues that I > should be aware of with ? > > Thanks, > > Gene > 80 B > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. > http://www.nni.com/ > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 29 08:28:57 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Eugene Balinski" , Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:25:44 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush You should be flushing the heater, block *and* radiator, and I wouldn't expect it to clog anything, wouldn't be much good as a flushing agent if it did! You should remove various hoses to enable you to forward and reverse flush each component, although this is best done with a hose, possibly after using the flushing agent in the system as a whole, then draining. If the flushing agent is used hot then allow the engine to cool before using a hose and cold water. If a radiator leak sealer has been used in the past none of this maybe enough to fully clear the radiator (or heater), you may have to unsolder the header tank and rod the tubes out. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Does anyone have experience with either of these products > before ? Any issues, especially with clogging the heater > core ? Any other cooling/radiator flush issues that I > should be aware of with ? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 29 09:28:21 2010 From: "Councill, David" To: Eugene Balinski , Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 09:15:17 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush I have used radiator cleaners twice, both on vehicles with rusty colored coolant. I also use the water flush method which is just a kit where you hook up a hose to the heater line and force water through and out the top of the radiator until it comes out clear, then drain the water. This is probably best just for routine cleaning. On the rusty coolant, I recall on my 71BGT using what were oxalic acid crystals poured into the radiator, running the engine for 10-15 minutes, draining, adding water and a neutralizer, run engine, drain. That was maybe 25 years ago and I think cleaners now are in liquid form. I used what was probably the Prestone radiator cleaner on my son's Chevy S10 a few years ago. They do clean fairly well but the key is making sure you flush the cleaner out at the end of the process so its corrosive action is short term. As I recall on my 71BGT, my heater core was already clogged when I did the cleaning so the cleaner did not help enough (heat was minimal). It was back in the early to mid 80s and my 71BGT was a daily driver for a 104 mile round trip commute under cold weather conditions (as cold as -20 F). That called for a creative fix, probably not recommended, but I pulled the heater core out of the case which involved bending the case a small bit to get it out. I then poured a solution of cleaner into the heater core and warmed the core on a propane stove. Drained/repeated until the solution was clear and then put it back in the car. That brought me heat in the BGT for cold winter drives although when below zero I also had to put cardboard over part of the radiator to keep coolant temps up. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B (powered by my 71BGT parts) -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eugene Balinski Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 8:00 AM To: mgs@Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush All, I would like to do a cooling system flush on my 80B. I plan to use either the Prestone "Super" Radiator Cleaner, or "Super" Radiator Flush. Does anyone have experience with either of these products before ? Any issues, especially with clogging the heater core ? Any other cooling/radiator flush issues that I should be aware of with ? Thanks, Gene 80 B _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 29 09:28:32 2010 From: "mgbob@juno.com" To: eugeneb@nni.com Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:24:33 GMT Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush Gene, Paul's suggestions are spot on; his is just the way I do my cleaning. Though it seems a nuisance, do flush the heater separately. Heaters seem to retain more sediment than the radiators, a surprisingly large amount. While you are at it, look into the hose end of the heater valve. Sometimes there is an accumulation of sediment there. If you see it, then the valve must be removed in order to clean the water passage to the head. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Eugene Balinski" To: Subject: [Mgs] Cooling System Flush Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 10:00:11 -0400 All, I would like to do a cooling system flush on my 80B. I plan to use either the Prestone "Super" Radiator Cleaner, or "Super" Radiator Flush. Does anyone have experience with either of these products before ? Any issues, especially with clogging the heater core ? Any other cooling/radiator flush issues that I should be aware of with ? Thanks, Gene 80 B _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 29 10:59:04 2010 From: "Ed Woods" To: Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 12:49:06 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] retorque List, Question about a new aluminum head on a '72 MGB: after the initial installation and start up, when should the head be retorqued and to what value? Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 29 11:30:03 2010 From: "Michael Singleton" To: "'Ed Woods'" , Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 10:19:40 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] retorque If it came new in the box, I'd guess there should have been some directions. Failing that check with Mike Pierce Manifolds: http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ I'd always trust the manufacturer rather than a random sampling of the community. You've paid your money, why not preserve the warrantee? Mike Michael Singleton Sportscars Ltd 10170 Croydon Way Suite M Sacramento, CA 95826 (916)366-0330 mike@sportscarslimited.net -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:49 AM To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] retorque List, Question about a new aluminum head on a '72 MGB: after the initial installation and start up, when should the head be retorqued and to what value? Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mike@sportscarslimited.net _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 30 02:29:13 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" , "4 -MGs" Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 08:57:31 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] [xxxxxx-------Spridgets] Stirling Moss-BBC excerpt.. (No And another of Top Gear's Richard Hammond and Moss discussing their life-changing accidents. http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00sfptv ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 30 02:30:01 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Ed Woods" , Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 08:48:58 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] retorque What have you torqued it to initially? The only instruction I have come across is to retorque to the initial figures, where it is done at all. V8s have aluminium heads and there are no special instructions for that compared to the 4-cylinder. What you *should* do though is back the nut off just enough to get it moving before retorquing, as it needs more torque to get it started from stiction of the threads than it is applying to the gasket. *Don't* back the nuts right off to finger tight before retorquing, there is no point and as most head removal instructions say to undo them gradually in rotation to prevent warping it sounds positively dangerous to me. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Question about a new aluminum head on a '72 MGB: after the initial > installation and start up, when should the head be retorqued and to what > value? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 30 05:44:59 2010 From: gordies garage To: 4 -MGs Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 07:34:33 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] [xxxxxx-------Spridgets] Stirling Moss-BBC excerpt.. (No Unfortunately, it is only available to those of you in the U.K. :-( Hey, could it be copied to another site? Paul Hunt wrote: > And another of Top Gear's Richard Hammond and Moss discussing their > life-changing accidents. > > http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00sfptv > > ----- Original Message ----- > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 5324 (20100729) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 30 08:47:04 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: , "4 -MGs" Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:03:17 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] [xxxxxx-------Spridgets] Stirling Moss-BBC excerpt.. (No I'd have to look into that, but in the meantime you might have more luck with this trailer: http://www.stirlingmoss.com/video/hammond-meets-moss-trailer-airs-bbc-4-6th-june-900pm ----- Original Message ----- > Unfortunately, it is only available to those of you in the U.K. :-( > Hey, could it be copied to another site? > > Paul Hunt wrote: >> And another of Top Gear's Richard Hammond and Moss discussing their >> life-changing accidents. >> >> http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00sfptv _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 30 10:02:21 2010 From: "riverside" To: "Paul Hunt" , "Ed Woods" Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:37:50 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] retorque There is some variety of opinion about this retorqueing business. my $.02: I believe the engine should be allowed to cool to near room temperature before retorque. Loosen nuts one at a time only enough to overcome the initial friction. Retourque to within 20 lbs of finishing torque. when all nuts are at this point, finish the march to finishing torque in rounds of 5 lbs. Don't use aluminum paint as a sealant. I like Gaskacinch and KW Coppercoat as sealants on those gaskets requiring sealant. Multiple coats of these work pretty well on those pesky manifold gaskets that have all the little divots. I don't know how to seperate my science from my voodoo, so i won't try. Good Luck! riverside ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Ed Woods" ; Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 2:48 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] retorque > What have you torqued it to initially? The only instruction I have come > across is to retorque to the initial figures, where it is done at all. > V8s have aluminium heads and there are no special instructions for that > compared to the 4-cylinder. What you *should* do though is back the nut > off just enough to get it moving before retorquing, as it needs more > torque to get it started from stiction of the threads than it is applying > to the gasket. *Don't* back the nuts right off to finger tight before > retorquing, there is no point and as most head removal instructions say to > undo them gradually in rotation to prevent warping it sounds positively > dangerous to me. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> Question about a new aluminum head on a '72 MGB: after the initial >> installation and start up, when should the head be retorqued and to what >> value? > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside@southslope.net _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 30 10:30:41 2010 From: "Lambdin, Mike" To: "mg_garage@comcast.net" , 4 -MGs Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 12:06:38 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] [xxxxxx-------Spridgets] Stirling Moss-BBC excerpt.. (No The problem is, most likely, a legal one...as opposed to technical. -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gordies garage Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 7:35 AM To: 4 -MGs Subject: Re: [Mgs] [xxxxxx-------Spridgets] Stirling Moss-BBC excerpt.. (No LBC!) Unfortunately, it is only available to those of you in the U.K. :-( Hey, could it be copied to another site? Paul Hunt wrote: > And another of Top Gear's Richard Hammond and Moss discussing their > life-changing accidents. > > http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00sfptv > > ----- Original Message ----- > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 5324 (20100729) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mlambdin@towson.edu _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 30 10:31:26 2010 From: Pete Groh To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 09:07:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Dealership sign, If you are into automobilia or have a restoration shop, there is a sign on e-bay. I have the same sign, double sided in a metal frame; MG / Austin on the bottom. It is in my two car garage, against the wall. I moved it twice, 1st when purchased in Glen Burnie MD, and than when I moved to Ellicott City MD. My sign was purchase from a BMC dealership and found on a used car lot. I located the owner of the business stating I wanted to purchase the sign, and asked about the price. He wanted $300.00. I stated that I was a Triumph guy and purpose of purchase was to trade for a Triumph sign. He than offered me the sign for $100.00. I stated I did not have $100.00 on me. He than stated how much did I had in my pocket. I counted out $20.00 and change. I stated I still had to pay to move the sign and that it could be broken at any time. He accepted my offer. MG austin healey dealership sign Item number:120599738178 Auction can end at any time, as item is also being offered for sale locally. Please contact us at Kunkle Motors with any questions. 570-675-1546 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_rdc=1&item=120599738178&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fmotors.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2F__%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp2127.m39.l1313%26_nkw%3D120599738178%26_sacat%3D%26_fvi%3D1&viewitem= Kind regards Pete Groh (KeyGuy) _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums