From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 02:35:45 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Schauss, Peter \(IT Solutions\)" , Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 08:43:38 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot That's very intriguing, I understood that the switch just had a very small 'nub' operated by the remote control rods, and it was the rods that determine whether you get OD in 3rd and 4th or 4th only. What car did the old gearbox come from? Is the gearbox in the car from elsewhere? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I replaced it with > a switch scavenged from my old gearbox which, so far, has works. As an > added > advantage, the new switch gives me overdrive in third and fourth gears > (but not in reverse > or first and second). _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 07:38:02 2010 From: "Schauss, Peter (IT Solutions)" To: "Paul Hunt" Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 08:16:01 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] EXTERNAL:Re: Overdrive does not work when it is hot Paul, The gearbox is a rebuilt unit that I bought from Quantum Mechanics. It must have come from an older car. When I first installed the box, I could get overdrive in 3rd gear by turning on the switch and pushing the lever to the right. (I did not make a habit of this because I did not want to put additional wear on the shift forks.) I also noticed that the shift from 3rd to 4th was required pushing the shift lever slightly to the right as it went through neutral. In any event, the isolation switch wore out and started getting flakey after about a year. I replaced it with a new one from Moss which lasted about the same length of time. At that point I compared the new switch to an original one from the old gearbox and discovered that the threaded portion of the original was longer than the new one. The extra reach on this switch is enough to make it work in both 3rd and 4th. I suspect shorter reach of the Moss switch and the fact that the plane from 3rd to neutral is further to the left than neutral to 4th was disabling overdrive in 3rd. Peter Schauss 1980 MGB -----Original Message----- From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk] Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 3:44 AM To: Schauss, Peter (IT Solutions); mgs@autox.team.net Subject: EXTERNAL:Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot That's very intriguing, I understood that the switch just had a very small 'nub' operated by the remote control rods, and it was the rods that determine whether you get OD in 3rd and 4th or 4th only. What car did the old gearbox come from? Is the gearbox in the car from elsewhere? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I replaced it with > a switch scavenged from my old gearbox which, so far, has works. As an > added > advantage, the new switch gives me overdrive in third and fourth gears > (but not in reverse > or first and second). _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 09:08:01 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "MG List" Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 15:27:04 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Not so much bogging down but not liking the jolt when it reengages automatically and again when I switch it off. is why I added a circuit to lock the OD out until the manual switch is turned off and back on again. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > It happens frequently...cruising on the freeway, when suddenly traffic > slows > and you have to downshift, then you wind up taking the exit and tootling > off > in 2nd or 3rd, and don't realize the OD switch is on until you're > reentering > the freeway, pop back into 4th and suddenly bog down...scarey. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 09:08:06 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 15:34:05 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Bear in mind that the OD used in the MGB, isn't strong enough to take full power in the lower gears, but OD second (like on some Triumphs) would indeed be beneficial as it is a long stretch to 3rd when on a hill. It's also why the V8 was modified to 4th gear only (the North American restriction to 4th only was for completely different reasons). Bear in mind also that any failure of the reverse light switch, relay or wiring around them, including blowing of the green circuit fuse, will prevent reverse selection from disabling the OD. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Another way to skin this cat (if I may use that metaphor) if you wish to > bypass the lockout switch, use a relay wired to the reverse light switch > such that when the primary is energized (by the reverse light circuit), > the > secondary (wired to the overdrive) is shut down. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 09:41:44 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Max Heim" , "MG List" Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 16:16:29 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] OIL Yes, limits for ingredient content, e.g.. how much zinc and phosphorus, which is what was being asked about. ----- Original Message ----- > The limit is so they don't foul cats (hence the problem); which is a > performance spec re emissions. > >> ----- Original Message ----- >>> No, these are performance specs, not ingredient specs. And flat tappet >>> engine wear is no longer part of the performance spec, apparently. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 09:41:50 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Schauss, Peter \(IT Solutions\)" Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 15:59:24 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] EXTERNAL:Re: Overdrive does not work when it is hot Indeed, must have been from an earlier car. Marginal switch adjustment does cause it to turn on and off as you waggle the lever around, my V8 will do that but only turning off if I push the lever in a certain direction, so I've left it as it is. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- The gearbox is a rebuilt unit that I bought from Quantum Mechanics. It must have come from an older car. When I first installed the box, I could get overdrive in 3rd gear by turning on the switch and pushing the lever to the right. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 12:30:21 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 10:46:42 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. I don't know about that -- they are physically exactly the same switch, in symmetrical locations (one on the left side, one on the right), at least on a late LH OD gearbox. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 8/31/10 8:34 PM, Allen Bachelder at bachldrs@airadv.net wrote: > > Another advantage is that a reverse lamp switch is a heckuva lot easier to > replace than an OD lock-out switch! > > FWIW, > Allen > ******************************************* > Allen H. Bachelder =iii=< > Spring Creek Home for Wayward MGs > Harbor Beach, Michigan 48441, USA > 53 TD, 58 ZBV, 63 Farina Mk IV, > 65 MGB, 69 C/GT, 73 B/GT > http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs > ******************************************* _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 12:30:33 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 10:51:38 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] OIL Sorry, I would interpret an ingredient spec as requiring a MINIMUM amount of an active ingredient. The maximum limitation is entirely driven by the need to avoid contaminating emissions equipment, not by any characteristic of the motor oil as a lubricant. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/1/10 8:16 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk wrote: > Yes, limits for ingredient content, e.g.. how much zinc and phosphorus, > which is what was being asked about. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> The limit is so they don't foul cats (hence the problem); which is a >> performance spec re emissions. >> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> No, these are performance specs, not ingredient specs. And flat tappet >>>> engine wear is no longer part of the performance spec, apparently. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 12:53:25 2010 From: Charley & Peggy Robinson To: "Andrew B. Lundgren" Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 13:32:57 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Oh good,; the wire from the column OD switch is a yellow one that comes out of the bundle at the rear of the passenger side inner fender panel. It has a bullet connector for the wire that goes down to the lockout switch and solenoid. When I retrofit mu OD gearbox into the car I made a harness from the OD wire to the switch and then to the solenoid. I also put in a wire with bullet connectors at each end to go straight to the solenoid, as a trouble-shooting aid. Anyway, once you find the yellow wire in the harness, you can run a wire from there to the solenoid and go drive the car. If the OD doesn't drop out after a while you've isolated the problem to the switch. Yippee! CR On 8/31/2010 5:38 PM, Andrew B. Lundgren wrote: > That I knew! > > I guess I should have posted more info. I have a '70 B. From the > numbers, the engine is out of a '77. > > I will have to go play around with some of these options. > > Thanks! > > > > On 8/31/2010 4:01 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote: >> That's why I said "be careful." I'll give Andy credit for being >> smart enuff to do so. -- CR >> >> On 8/31/2010 4:58 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: >>> And you will wreck the overdrive if you reverse with it bypassed and >>> the manual switch on! >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> ... Be careful though, this is also the reverse lockout switch >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs@autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 13:08:27 2010 From: Charley & Peggy Robinson To: mgs@Autox.Team.Net Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 13:47:57 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. I've never seen a bunch to over-analyze a problem so! =-O I drove my '70B for several years with the lockout switch bypassed so I could play with the OD in all four forward gears. I was judicious in how I used it in the lower gears of course but it never broke down. That OD can take more strain than some folks give it credit for. I took the bypass off right before I sold the car. However what I told Andrew he coud do was in the nature of a temporary trouble-shooting aid. CR _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 13:20:35 2010 From: Charley & Peggy Robinson To: Max Heim Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 14:00:52 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. What he means is one is easy to get at and the other is not. The lockout switch is a PITA to mess with because of where it's located.. That's why I advise bypassing it as a trouble-shooting tool. CR On 9/1/2010 12:46 PM, Max Heim wrote: > I don't know about that -- they are physically exactly the same switch, in > symmetrical locations (one on the left side, one on the right), at least on > a late LH OD gearbox. > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > > on 8/31/10 8:34 PM, Allen Bachelder at bachldrs@airadv.net wrote: > > >> Another advantage is that a reverse lamp switch is a heckuva lot easier to >> replace than an OD lock-out switch! >> >> FWIW, >> Allen >> ******************************************* >> Allen H. Bachelder =iii=< >> Spring Creek Home for Wayward MGs >> Harbor Beach, Michigan 48441, USA >> 53 TD, 58 ZBV, 63 Farina Mk IV, >> 65 MGB, 69 C/GT, 73 B/GT >> http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs >> ******************************************* >> > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 1 13:54:48 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 12:12:46 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. How is one easier to get at? Both of them are up inside the tunnel, in very constrained circumstances. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/1/10 12:00 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins@ktc.com wrote: > What he means is one is easy to get at and the other is not. The > lockout switch is a PITA to mess with because of where it's located.. > That's why I advise bypassing it as a trouble-shooting tool. > > CR > > > > On 9/1/2010 12:46 PM, Max Heim wrote: >> I don't know about that -- they are physically exactly the same switch, in >> symmetrical locations (one on the left side, one on the right), at least on >> a late LH OD gearbox. >> >> >> -- >> >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB GHN3L76149 >> If you're near Mountain View, CA, >> it's the primer red one with chrome wires >> >> >> >> on 8/31/10 8:34 PM, Allen Bachelder at bachldrs@airadv.net wrote: >> >> >>> Another advantage is that a reverse lamp switch is a heckuva lot easier to >>> replace than an OD lock-out switch! >>> >>> FWIW, >>> Allen >>> ******************************************* >>> Allen H. Bachelder =iii=< >>> Spring Creek Home for Wayward MGs >>> Harbor Beach, Michigan 48441, USA >>> 53 TD, 58 ZBV, 63 Farina Mk IV, >>> 65 MGB, 69 C/GT, 73 B/GT >>> http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs >>> ******************************************* _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 2 04:51:14 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "MG List" Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:10:14 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Some at least aren't symmetrical - the OD switch points backwards, is pretty-well right at the top and above a jutting-out piece of the casting. The reverse-light switch points sideways, lower down, and much easier to get grips on. http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/gbs2.jpg (rubber bumper pre-77). I've not had to change either, but even getting to the spades on the OD switch needed the rear crossmember dropping on a jack, the centre cubby removing, tunnel carpet pulled back, and the little (4-synch) removable panel ... removed. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I don't know about that -- they are physically exactly the same switch, in > symmetrical locations (one on the left side, one on the right), at least > on > a late LH OD gearbox. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 2 10:38:02 2010 From: "Ed Woods" To: "Paul Hunt" , "MG List" Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 12:17:31 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. List, I'm casting my vote for a drop in oil pressure as the cause of this problem. IMHO, an intermittent electrical problem wouldn't be so predictable. Time to get a gauge in place to measure o/d pressure. I bought one on Ebay, then made up and extension so that I could read it from the driver's seat. Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 2 11:10:50 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:48:12 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. The whole issue about the transmission getting hot still has me wondering. Would that mean the oil level was low? That could be the problem right there. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/2/10 9:17 AM, Ed Woods at fogbro1@comcast.net wrote: > List, > > I'm casting my vote for a drop in oil pressure as the cause of this problem. > IMHO, an intermittent electrical problem wouldn't be so predictable. > > Time to get a gauge in place to measure o/d pressure. I bought one on Ebay, > then made up and extension so that I could read it from the driver's seat. > > Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 2 11:25:00 2010 From: "Hans Duinhoven" To: "Ed Woods" , "Paul Hunt" Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 18:55:21 +0200 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. My vote goes to the oil pressure transducer. Mine acts flaky sometimes. Cheers, Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: "Paul Hunt" ; "MG List" Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 6:17 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. > List, > > I'm casting my vote for a drop in oil pressure as the cause of this > problem. IMHO, an intermittent electrical problem wouldn't be so > predictable. > > Time to get a gauge in place to measure o/d pressure. I bought one on > Ebay, then made up and extension so that I could read it from the driver's > seat. > > Ed Woods _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 02:54:12 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Ed Woods" , "MG List" Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 09:12:22 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Maybe, but much easier to eliminate the electrics first ... ----- Original Message ----- > I'm casting my vote for a drop in oil pressure as the cause of this > problem. IMHO, an intermittent electrical problem wouldn't be so > predictable. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 02:54:45 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "MG List" Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 09:21:21 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Low oil level does cause failure to engage, but that is more likely when cold than hot as the level hot should be higher. Got to be the easiest thing to eliminate though, and surely has already been done? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > The whole issue about the transmission getting hot still has me wondering. > Would that mean the oil level was low? That could be the problem right > there. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 08:11:43 2010 From: "Councill, David" To: MG List Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 07:52:05 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. There is also the filter to be considered. I'm presuming the LH overdrive. It's the screen/gasket located on the underside next to the solenoid. I have heard of problems when it is clogged but I changed mine with oil changes so mine has always been fairly clean. David Councill 64 B 67 BGT 72 B -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 2:21 AM To: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Low oil level does cause failure to engage, but that is more likely when cold than hot as the level hot should be higher. Got to be the easiest thing to eliminate though, and surely has already been done? PaulH. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 08:58:32 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "MG List" Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 15:28:41 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. That's a pretty big screen to get clogged and prevent enough oil pressure developing. Sometimes you have to change that screen anyway as it is also the sump gasket and can delaminate on removal. When doing two ODs I bought one, and was lucky enough to need it for one but not the other. There are also the cylindrical screens and filters on the valve assembly, as well as the valving and ports themselves. But all that comes after confirming it isn't electrical. Just been speaking to a chap who has had the opposite problem, it kept engaging when it shouldn't. The problem was the relief valve clogged, which as well as engaging OD everytime the input shaft turned also developed nearly double the required pressure and bent the bolts and end plate. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > There is also the filter to be considered. I'm presuming the LH > overdrive. It's the screen/gasket located on the underside next to the > solenoid. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 10:10:05 2010 From: "Ed Woods" To: "MG List" Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 11:47:20 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an open List, Lacking an ammeter, an electrical test that I used was to put a 12V bulb in series with the overdrive electrics. Did this under the hood, a.k.a. bonnet, where the connector to the o/d is located. With the ignition on and the gearbox in 3rd or 4th and, of course, the overdrive switch "on", the light will illuminate dimly if there's continuity to ground through the various wires, isolator switch, and solenoid. Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 10:58:18 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Ed Woods" , "MG List" Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 17:28:34 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Indeed, but you won't know if the right amount of current is flowing. OK to detect a full break in the circuit, but not a high-resistance connection. It will almost certainly stop the OD engaging anyway, so you won't know whether it is 'normal' or a fault condition, unless you happen to notice it change brightness. But it will be doing *that* anyway, as the alternator output varies. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Lacking an ammeter, an electrical test that I used was to put a 12V bulb > in series with the overdrive electrics. Did this under the hood, a.k.a. > bonnet, where the connector to the o/d is located. With the ignition on > and the gearbox in 3rd or 4th and, of course, the overdrive switch "on", > the light will illuminate dimly if there's continuity to ground through > the various wires, isolator switch, and solenoid. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 11:41:12 2010 From: "Ed Woods" To: "MG List" Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 13:20:29 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an List, I thought, since the overdrive works intermittently, that we were looking for a break in the circuit. The light bulb will certainly detect that. It will also check the operation of the interrupter switch and the column switch. In the first instance, without crawling under the car. If an ammeter is available to use instead of the light bulb, so much the better; but how many of us have one of those in the tool box? In my particular case, I'd already crawled under the car and measured 12V at the solenoid. I used the light bulb to prove that it was drawing current. I felt the ground path of the solenoid through an oily film was suspect. Proving that the solenoid was drawing current led me in another direction: the removal of the bottom plate and the plug beneath the oil pump and, therefore, the discovery of the missing ball on the anti return valve. But the problem almost certainly is low oil pressure anyway. Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 12:59:42 2010 From: rolindsay@yahoo.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 18:36:47 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] New non-MG car Hello Friends, Its been quite a while since I sold my MG but I stay plugged in here because you folks are friends - and I appreciate and respect that. I write today to share my excitement. I just picked up a classic for an insanely low price. Its a 1969 R-R Silver Shadow! Beautiful Sand-over-Sable paint and tan leather/carpet. Good fun. -rick Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 13:41:03 2010 From: don To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 12:22:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] New non-MG car /8Rlizb: Permission denied _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 13:55:29 2010 From: Dan DiBiase To: rolindsay@yahoo.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 12:32:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] New non-MG car Oooo, sounds nice. I have a buddy looking for a Bentley. Would like to see pics.... Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: "rolindsay@yahoo.com" To: mgs@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, September 3, 2010 2:36:47 PM Subject: [Mgs] New non-MG car Hello Friends, Its been quite a while since I sold my MG but I stay plugged in here because you folks are friends - and I appreciate and respect that. I write today to share my excitement. I just picked up a classic for an insanely low price. Its a 1969 R-R Silver Shadow! Beautiful Sand-over-Sable paint and tan leather/carpet. Good fun. -rick Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 14:26:42 2010 From: don To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 13:08:46 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] New non-MG car Pick up the latest (October) copy of Hemming's Sports & Exotic magazine There's a great 6-page buyer's guide on the '65-'80 RR Silver Shadow. I recommend a subscription to anyone that likes old foreign cars, and it's affordable unlike the British magazines I used to buy. Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars ATt 11:36 AM 09/03/2010, rolindsay@yahoo.com wrote: >Hello Friends, > >Its been quite a while since I sold my MG but I stay plugged in here >because you folks are friends - and I appreciate and respect that. > >I write today to share my excitement. I just picked up a classic for >an insanely low price. Its a 1969 R-R Silver Shadow! Beautiful >Sand-over-Sable paint and tan leather/carpet. > >Good fun. > >-rick >Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/don@napanet.net > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3111 - Release Date: >09/02/10 23:34:00 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 3 16:10:40 2010 From: "Chad" To: "'Paul Hunt'" , "'MG List'" Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:50:36 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. I actually cut a flap in my tunnel that I can fold down to get to it without dropping the tranny. I was having issues with it and it's nice to be able to access it so easily. Chad -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 5:10 AM To: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Some at least aren't symmetrical - the OD switch points backwards, is pretty-well right at the top and above a jutting-out piece of the casting. The reverse-light switch points sideways, lower down, and much easier to get grips on. http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/gbs2.jpg (rubber bumper pre-77). I've not had to change either, but even getting to the spades on the OD switch needed the rear crossmember dropping on a jack, the centre cubby removing, tunnel carpet pulled back, and the little (4-synch) removable panel ... removed. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I don't know about that -- they are physically exactly the same switch, in > symmetrical locations (one on the left side, one on the right), at least > on > a late LH OD gearbox. _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 4 16:31:00 2010 From: Allen Bachelder To: Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 18:08:56 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Also, consider this about the overdrive lock-out switch. They come with a couple of gaskets (or at least they used to). Don't just slap one in, hook it up and presume that because it's new, it's good. Or presume that because it works on the bench it will work on the car. Test it for continuity - in 3rd or 4th, and in any other gear or neutral. If it doesn't work, or if it's intermittent, experiment with adding/subtracting one or both of those gaskets. I fixed an O/D a few years ago by taking one gasket off the lockout switch. FWIW, Allen ******************************************* Allen H. Bachelder =iii=< Spring Creek Home for Wayward MGs Harbor Beach, Michigan 48441, USA 53 TD, 58 ZBV, 63 Farina Mk IV, 65 MGB, 69 C/GT, 73 B/GT http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs ******************************************* _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 17:03:20 2010 From: "dannyvarnado" To: Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 15:26:02 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Shock Oil Is there any oil suitable for MG shocks other than actual "shock oil"? I have heard of people successfully using hydraulic jack oil in their shocks. Not sure if I want to try that though. CDV '58 MGA _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 17:48:46 2010 From: Ron Engelhardt To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 16:29:01 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Shock Oil I have used both Moss's Shock Oil and Jack oil...never noticed a difference, both worked well. The shocks I have now don't leak (yet?) and are filled with shock oil. Ron 58 MGA dannyvarnado wrote: > Is there any oil suitable for MG shocks other than actual "shock oil"? > I have heard of people successfully using hydraulic jack oil in their shocks. > Not sure if I want to try that though. > CDV > '58 MGA > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 18:34:39 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: "dannyvarnado" , Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 19:09:26 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Shock Oil They are hydraulic shocks, so use hydraulic oil. Hydraulic jack oil is just a conveniently available package for hydraulic oil. Most "generic" hydraulic oil, unless otherwise labled, is 20-weight or 20W20 with some non-foaming addatives. 20-weight is as originally specified, and you should not deviate too far from this spec. 30-weight will make the shocks considerably stiffer, maybe undesireable for street use. 50-weight might seem like infinitely stiff and could result in broken internal parts. I seem to recall that Peter Caldwell who rebuilds the shocks may use 20-weight motor oil. At 03:26 PM 9/5/2010 -0700, dannyvarnado wrote: >Is there any oil suitable for MG shocks other than actual "shock oil"? >I have heard of people successfully using hydraulic jack oil in their shocks. >Not sure if I want to try that though. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 5 22:17:06 2010 From: "R. Martin Rogovein" To: "Mg Mailing List" Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 07:06:04 +0300 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Shock Oil i went to a motorcycle shop and got 'fork oil', which is exactly that - hydraylic shock oil. ___________________________________________________ Once upon a time, long long ago in a far away land where there were no cellular phones, people used to engage in an ancient cultural tradition called "making plans." According to the history books it was a primitive way of arranging to see each other in which one person would suggest a specific date, time, and location, and the other person would either agree, or suggest an alternative until they reached an agreement. And then, without any intervening phone calls or other communication, both parties would actually show up to the agreed upon location at the agreed upon hour. It's amazing, in that primitive culture, that anyone had any friends at all. --KBN ___________________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barney Gaylord" To: "dannyvarnado" ; Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 3:09 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Shock Oil > They are hydraulic shocks, so use hydraulic oil. Hydraulic jack oil > is just a conveniently available package for hydraulic oil. Most > "generic" hydraulic oil, unless otherwise labled, is 20-weight or > 20W20 with some non-foaming addatives. 20-weight is as originally > specified, and you should not deviate too far from this > spec. 30-weight will make the shocks considerably stiffer, maybe > undesireable for street use. 50-weight might seem like infinitely > stiff and could result in broken internal parts. I seem to recall > that Peter Caldwell who rebuilds the shocks may use 20-weight motor oil. > > At 03:26 PM 9/5/2010 -0700, dannyvarnado wrote: > >Is there any oil suitable for MG shocks other than actual "shock oil"? > >I have heard of people successfully using hydraulic jack oil in their shocks. > >Not sure if I want to try that though. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rmort@bezeqint.net _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 02:02:48 2010 From: Richard Gosling To: Ed Woods Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 08:33:47 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Ed asked: "If an ammeter is available to use instead of the light bulb, so much the > better; but how many of us have one of those in the tool box?" I don't know how many of us have one, but most of us should, they're dead useful. It's hardly a huge outlay - a quick glance on the first website I could think of (Screwfix) listed several multimeters, including 3 models for about #10 ($15). I've been known to spend more than that on just one socket (OK, a big one for a hub nut or steering wheel nut). An intermittent overdrive could be an electrical problem that isn't a break in the circuit. A slightly loose or corroded connector (and the bullet connectors are particularly notorious for degrading this way), corrosion in the switch etc. could cause a resistance in the circuit that allows some current to pass, but not always enough. A continuity tester (i.e. a bulb on a wire) wouldn't help diagnose that, but an ammeter would. I'm not trying to take sides on the oil pressure vs. electrical fault discussion, only suggesting that there are more possible electrical problems than a complete break in the circuit, and they may require more sophisticated detection. Richard and Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT, still for sale, slightly crestfallen at the lack of interest so far...) _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 02:02:49 2010 From: "Martin C. Galan" To: MG List Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 15:46:51 +0800 (SGT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] Last Vintage race in Subic Raceway The Subic International Raceway had its final race weekend a few months ago and the Manila Sports Car Club participated through the running of its vintage races. Capturing the fun and excitement of the events and the MSCC vintage race, please view an excellent video from a fellow car enthusiast who happens to be a good filmmaker. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwUbSI7pfiY You may notice a few non vintage participants ... it was allowed since it was the "Last Lap". Thank you, Martin Galan the black MBG on the video #13 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 05:18:09 2010 From: Eric Erickson To: MGList List Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:28:38 +0930 Subject: Re: [Mgs] American icon had an MG On 30/08/2010, at 8:47 AM, don wrote: > I just read that Glenn Beck's first car was a '69 MG. > > http://content.usatoday.com/communities/driveon/post/2010/08/glenn-beck-loves -cadillac-escalade-disses-hybrids/1 O RLY _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 06:48:30 2010 From: "Tom Gunderson" To: Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 08:24:08 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA lube and fluid levels Where can I find a list of MGA lube and fluid amounts and levels? Tom Gunderson, 1957 MGA, 1500 rst _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 09:06:53 2010 From: "David F. Darby" To: Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 09:44:00 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA lube and fluid levels Hello Tom, Here is a link to such a list: http://www.mgcars.org.uk/MGA/mgaspec1.html You should try to get a reprint copy of the owner's handbook and/or the MGA shop manual. David -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Gunderson Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 7:24 AM To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] MGA lube and fluid levels Where can I find a list of MGA lube and fluid amounts and levels? Tom Gunderson, 1957 MGA, 1500 rst _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 09:20:21 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: "Tom Gunderson" , Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 09:48:37 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA lube and fluid levels Was there something specific you couldn't find in the Lubrication section of the Workshop Manual? At 08:24 AM 9/6/2010 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >Where can I find a list of MGA lube and fluid amounts and levels? >.... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 09:37:54 2010 From: Dan DiBiase To: Tom Gunderson , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 08:19:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA lube and fluid levels I'd be pretty amazed if Barney Gaylord didn't have that info on his site somewhere. http://www.mgaguru.com/ Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: Tom Gunderson To: mgs@autox.team.net Sent: Mon, September 6, 2010 8:24:08 AM Subject: [Mgs] MGA lube and fluid levels Where can I find a list of MGA lube and fluid amounts and levels? Tom Gunderson, 1957 MGA, 1500 rst _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 09:52:29 2010 From: Dan DiBiase To: mg-mgb@yahoogroups.com, MG List Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 08:26:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Some Good News Well, yesterday I got my '76B running again after over a year. Between a wet spring, the incredible heat this summer, some back issues and getting 2 sons off to college, I never had a chance to do anything with the car until now! But I filled up one flat tire, took off my cheap Harbor Freight battery tender, disconnected the coil, spun the engine a bit to build oil pressure, then had to blow some crud out of the fuel line, and she started right up! Ran a little rough the first time around the block, and I still need to replace the front brake pads, and the carb needs some attention (that was supposed to be last winter's project) but it was nice to tool around the block a few times on a beautiful day. That cheapo $10 HF battery tender worked like a charm! The battery was full of juice, which was great to see. I am going to pick up some brake pads and try to get that done this month, then drive the car a bit this fall before rebuilding the Z-S this winter. And now that this car is running, I can also get some work done on the '65 B/storage container. Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 11:08:42 2010 From: Mike Eldred To: , Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 12:38:00 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Shock Oil Most auto parts places around here carry motorcycle fork oil in various weights. > From: dannyvarnado@cox.net > To: mgs@autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 15:26:02 -0700 > Subject: [Mgs] Shock Oil > > Is there any oil suitable for MG shocks other than actual "shock oil"? > I have heard of people successfully using hydraulic jack oil in their shocks. > Not sure if I want to try that though. > CDV > '58 MGA > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco@hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 11:46:24 2010 From: Allen Bachelder To: Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 13:10:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Was: Re: Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Now, Rich, I hear you regarding (" '73 Black Tulip BGT, still for sale, slightly crestfallen at the lack of interest so far..."). I'm trying to sell a nice TD and have had it on the market for almost a year. It's VERY reasonably priced but so far, nobody has even LOOKED at it. Collector cars are luxuries and in this economy it looks like even people of means are not spending much. I suppose there are prices at which these cars would sell quickly... FWIW, Allen ******************************************* Allen H. Bachelder =iii=< Spring Creek Home for Wayward MGs Harbor Beach, Michigan 48441, USA 53 TD, 58 ZBV, 63 Farina Mk IV, 65 MGB, 69 C/GT, 73 B/GT http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs ******************************************* _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 12:47:41 2010 From: Simon Matthews To: Barney Gaylord Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 11:13:12 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Shock Oil So, it should be safe to put shock oil into a hydraulic jack? I did that recently when I found that my jack would not pump up to its full height and I needed to change the brake pads on my wife's car. Simon On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 5:09 PM, Barney Gaylord wrote: > They are hydraulic shocks, so use hydraulic oil. Hydraulic jack oil is just > a conveniently available package for hydraulic oil. Most "generic" > hydraulic oil, unless otherwise labled, is 20-weight or 20W20 with some > non-foaming addatives. 20-weight is as originally specified, and you should > not deviate too far from this spec. 30-weight will make the shocks > considerably stiffer, maybe undesireable for street use. 50-weight might > seem like infinitely stiff and could result in broken internal parts. I > seem to recall that Peter Caldwell who rebuilds the shocks may use 20-weight > motor oil. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 15:34:37 2010 From: don To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 14:17:42 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] MG makes the list MG makes the list (in B.C., not sure if that is the case in the U.S.) . The top 10 collector cars in B.C. Boomers fuel collector-car market. Read more: http://www.timescolonist.com/health/men/Skinny+male+mannequins+fuel+eating+disorders/3143216/collector+cars/1565281/story.html?id=1565281#ixzz0ymo4bwAi Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 17:52:02 2010 From: Mike Eldred To: , Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 19:32:33 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG makes the list ***5. MG: The MG became a household name on the strength of the number of models introduced into North America by soldiers returning home from Europe after the Second World War. The MGA was the first MG sports car to invade North America...*** As an editor/reporter, I am often embarassed by my younger colleagues' failure to do the most basic research. I can't decide if this writer thinks the MGA is the "first" MG because of the "A," or if he thinks WWII ended in the mid '50s. -Mike Eldred (News Editor, Deerfield Valley News) > Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:17:42 -0700 > To: mgs@autox.team.net > From: don@napanet.net > Subject: [Mgs] MG makes the list > > MG makes the list (in B.C., not sure if that is the case in the U.S.) . > > > The top 10 collector cars in B.C. > > > Boomers fuel collector-car market. > > Read more: > h ttp://www.timescolonist.com/health/men/Skinny+male+mannequins+fuel+eating+dis orders/3143216/collector+cars/1565281/story.html?id=1565281#ixzz0ymo4bwAi > > > > Don Scott > Calistoga CA USA > 1966 TR4A > 1962 MGA Mk 2 > 1973 MGB GT (selling) > 1965 MGB (seeking) > Misc. Japanese cars > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco@hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 18:22:23 2010 From: "Tom Gunderson" To: Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:01:48 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA transmission fluid change What size tool is used with the transmission drain plug? It is a square insert. Tom Gunderson - 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 19:33:57 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: "Tom Gunderson" , Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:09:10 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA transmission fluid change See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts204.htm At 08:01 PM 9/6/2010 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >What size tool is used with the transmission drain plug? .... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 19:49:34 2010 From: WSpohn4@aol.com To: thgun@comporium.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 21:24:13 EDT Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA transmission fluid change You can use a 3/8" ratchet. The square is smaller, but will still turn the plug unless it has been previously rounded. Bill In a message dated 06/09/2010 5:23:32 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, thgun@comporium.net writes: What size tool is used with the transmission drain plug? It is a square insert. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 6 20:21:16 2010 From: The Roxter To: "mgs@autox.team.net >> \"mgs@autox.team.net\"" Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 21:07:34 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG makes the list On 9/6/2010 6:32 PM, Mike Eldred wrote: > ***5. MG: The MG became a household name on the strength of the number of > models introduced into North America by soldiers returning home from Europe > after the Second World War. The MGA was the first MG sports car to invade > North America...*** > > As an editor/reporter, I am often embarassed by my younger colleagues' failure > to do the most basic research. I can't decide if this writer thinks the MGA > is the "first" MG because of the "A," or if he thinks WWII ended in the mid > '50s. I had a 1949 TC in 1956. I don't think the A was the first into the USA. -Rocky Frisco -- _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 02:15:51 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Ed Woods" , "MG List" Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 08:50:58 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an What!? No ammeter in your toolbox!!?? ... This isn't a roadside breakdown but an intermittent problem where you can keep going, so at some convenient time you get the ammeter out of the garage, connect it up, then go for a drive. ----- Original Message ----- > ... but how many of us have one of those in the tool box? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 04:46:22 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Mike Eldred" , Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 09:44:44 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG makes the list All too common these days, even in the so-called 'quality' press (like the Sunday Times mixing up millions and billions in the Gulf oil spill being just one recent). And no doubt when pointed out to them they would shrug their shoulders and say it doesn't matter. Maybe it doesn't, what they write today is hanging on the nail in the smallest room tomorrow. ----- Original Message ----- > As an editor/reporter, I am often embarassed by my younger colleagues' > failure > to do the most basic research. I can't decide if this writer thinks the > MGA > is the "first" MG because of the "A," or if he thinks WWII ended in the > mid > '50s. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 04:47:35 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "dannyvarnado" , Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 09:31:03 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Shock Oil I've been using the same hydraulic oil in both jacks and dampers for 40 years (OK, not much in either case) without problems with either i.e. from foaming. An advantage of fork oil can be if it contains a seal swelling agent, but whether that is just snake oil advertising or fact is anyone's guess. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Is there any oil suitable for MG shocks other than actual "shock oil"? > I have heard of people successfully using hydraulic jack oil in their > shocks. > Not sure if I want to try that though. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 04:47:40 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "dannyvarnado" , Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 09:38:14 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an This is precisely why I mentioned an ammeter and eliminating the electrical in the first place, it is just so easy. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I'm not trying to take sides on the oil pressure vs. electrical fault > discussion, only suggesting that there are more possible electrical > problems > than a complete break in the circuit, and they may require more > sophisticated detection. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 04:47:44 2010 From: Matt Trebelhorn To: MG List Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 06:26:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB brake caliper seals I was rebuilding the calipers for my B this weekend, and managed to mangle two of the metal rings that retain the outer seals. (I would not have done so had I checked Barney's webpage first. The method on this page: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/brakes/bt104b.htm works brilliantly.) My question: can the metal rings be bought separately? I don't want to waste a rebuild kit if I only need the metal rings. One cool thing I figured out and wanted to pass along: u-bolts from the rear axle have the same bolt spacing as the calipers and make a good stand for holding the caliper while painting it. (The caliper I did rebuild is now grey; no red/yellow/purple etc. for me) Matt _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 05:18:38 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Paul Hunt Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 04:04:44 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an If you don't have an ammeter don't sweat it. If the resistance has gone up due to whatever both the amperage and voltage will go down as a result. You can do a test called a voltage drop test to determine if a fault exists and where exactly the fault lies. Much easier than using an ammeter. I wrote a long reply for the Healey list about this which has been posted at www.healey6.com in the technical section. Rick Sent from my iPhone On Sep 7, 2010, at 1:38, "Paul Hunt" wrote: > This is precisely why I mentioned an ammeter and eliminating the electrical in the first place, it is just so easy. > > PaulH. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 07:07:03 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Richard Ewald" Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 13:21:29 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Only the voltage *past* the bad connection will go down. If it is inside the solenoid - either windings or earth connection - you won't see that, and needs to be at the gearbox switch in order to 'see' anything else which is a pain to get to. In no way is this easier than using an ammeter inserted at the manual switch for dash switch cars, or the main harness to gearbox harness connector by the fusebox for other cars. You *could* use a voltmeter if you inserted an additional resistance somewhere convenient (like where you would insert an ammeter above ...) and connected the voltmeter on the solenoid side of that. If you use a low enough resistance say 10 ohms the solenoid *should* still operate the OD, and with the rest of the circuitry operating as it should you should see about 8v on the meter. If the disconnection or bad connection is towards the supply from your voltmeter connection point i.e. through the manual switch then the voltage will drop lower (to zero if a full disconnection). If it is towards the solenoid and its earth the voltage will go higher, to full system voltage for a disconnection. But you need to take into account normal system voltage variations which could be from 12v to 14.5v. But a lot of fiddling about getting a appropriate resistance and working out the theoretical currents and voltages. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- If you don't have an ammeter don't sweat it. If the resistance has gone up due to whatever both the amperage and voltage will go down as a result. You can do a test called a voltage drop test to determine if a fault exists and where exactly the fault lies. Much easier than using an ammeter. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 08:17:20 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Paul Hunt Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 06:48:30 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Your reply shows that you have no idea what you talking about. Voltage drop tests are way faster and easier than using an ammeter. But what the hell do I know, I only taught this shit for 15 years for a major car maker and have been repairing cars professionally for over 40 years. ::: Shrug::: On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 5:21 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Only the voltage *past* the bad connection will go down. NO shit Sherlock. If it is inside > the solenoid - either windings or earth connection - you won't see that, > and needs to be at the gearbox switch in order to 'see' anything else which > is a pain to get to. first off there had better be a voltage drop inside the solenoid or you have an open circuit. The load (solenoid) uses up the voltage. Secondly, it takes about 2 seconds to voltage drop the ground connection to the solenoid, so that objection is BS > > In no way is this easier than using an ammeter inserted at the manual switch > for dash switch cars, or the main harness to gearbox harness connector by > the fusebox for other cars. Wait, let me get this straight. Touching a voltmeter to two ends of the circuit is harder than breaking into the harness and wiring in an ammeter? What color is the sky on your planet anyway? > > You *could* use a voltmeter if you inserted an additional resistance > somewhere convenient (like where you would insert an ammeter above ...) and > connected the voltmeter on the solenoid side of that. If you use a low > enough resistance say 10 ohms the solenoid *should* still operate the OD, > and with the rest of the circuitry operating as it should you should see > about 8v on the meter. If the disconnection or bad connection is towards > the supply from your voltmeter connection point i.e. through the manual > switch then the voltage will drop lower (to zero if a full disconnection). > If it is towards the solenoid and its earth the voltage will go higher, to > full system voltage for a disconnection. But you need to take into account > normal system voltage variations which could be from 12v to 14.5v. But a > lot of fiddling about getting a appropriate resistance and working out the > theoretical currents and voltages. You are not describing a voltage drop test but rather some type of strange available voltage test. Voltage drop test do not need to take into account source voltage, as you are only measuring the drop in a particular circuit, not overall system voltage. What you are suggesting is NOT what I suggested. Perhaps you should learn what the hell you are talking about before you go criticizing others. Maybe if you had read the article I wrote you might have a clue. But then again you might not. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 10:05:47 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Richard Ewald" Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 16:35:45 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Oh dear. I've been working with this stuff for 40 years, playing with it for a dozen or more before that. I'm going to try and explain what I mean, ignoring the offensive attitude and language, even though you may well not bother reading it. Draw out the circuit in a straight line, from earth, through the battery, manual and gearbox switches, the solenoid, to earth. The voltage all the way along circuit from the battery 12v terminal to the solenoid terminal in a working circuit with switches closed will be battery voltage. It doesn't matter whether the solenoid is passing the correct current, is operated and doing its job, or if the solenoid has an open-circuit in the windings or to earth, you still have battery voltage at the solenoid terminal. A voltmeter will only show a break in the circuit up to the last point you can connect it to, which will be the wire leading in to the solenoid. You can have a break inside the solenoid winding, or its earth connection, and the voltmeter won't show it. You can't get in to the solenoid to test it without removing it, and this is an intermittent fault remember. By the time you have taken it out the fault may have 'repaired' itself again, and in any case you have broken the earth connection to the OD body so can't test that anyway. It means getting under the car with tools to remove the solenoid, a waste of time if the fault proves to be electrical elsewhere. A resistance test will show if the solenoid winding and its earth connection are correct, but you can only do that with the power disconnected, when the OD will be disengaged anyway. The only way you can be sure that the circuit is *complete and drawing the correct current* is with an ammeter. I'll say again, simply connecting an ammeter to a parted connector in the engine bay, driving along waiting for the intermittent fault to occur again, and looking at the ammeter when the OD stops working is the easiest way of proving whether the fault is electrical or not. It's a two-connection, real world monitor that allows the OD to operate normally, that you can leave in place until such time as the OD drops out again. The only thing to bear in mind is that the connector you have parted may have been the source of the bad connection, in which case the OD probably won't fail again due to the disturbance, ammeter connected or not. Only when you have proved current isn't flowing when it should be, would you then test along the circuit with a voltmeter, *which needs the ammeter to be left in circuit to be sure it hasn't repaired itself again*, to see where along the circuit you stop getting voltage. If you can get all the way to the connector on the wire leading into the solenoid and still have 12v, but no current, then the problem is either with the solenoid or its earth, but you can't be sure which. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Your reply shows that you have no idea what you talking about. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 7 10:49:08 2010 From: Richard Ewald To: Paul Hunt Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 09:28:15 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an You still don't understand. It is more likely a circuit with high resistance hot, not an open circuit hot (those are pretty rare) Assume you have a circuit drawing 8A @12V (assumed, I understand that the actual voltage will vary, but this is unimportant). Now further assume that you have a Lucas bullet connector with .3 ohms resistance. What is going to happen to the voltage across that connector? Will it stay the same? Will it go up? Will it go down? use Ohms law and solve for voltage E=IR E= 8 X .3 = 2.4V With an 8 am draw, a .3 ohm resistance will cause a 2.4 volt drop across that connector. If you put a voltmeter with the red lead on one side of that connector, and the black lead on the other side of that connector with the circuit on, it will register 2.4V. This voltage drop demonstrates that there is excessive resistance in that connection. Pretty simple huh? On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 8:35 AM, Paul Hunt wrote: > Oh dear. I've been working with this stuff for 40 years, playing with it > for a dozen or more before that. I'm going to try and explain what I mean, > ignoring the offensive attitude and language, even though you may well not > bother reading it. > > Draw out the circuit in a straight line, from earth, through the battery, > manual and gearbox switches, the solenoid, to earth. > > The voltage all the way along circuit from the battery 12v terminal to the > solenoid terminal in a working circuit with switches closed will be battery > voltage. It doesn't matter whether the solenoid is passing the correct > current, is operated and doing its job, or if the solenoid has an > open-circuit in the windings or to earth, you still have battery voltage at > the solenoid terminal. A voltmeter will only show a break in the circuit up > to the last point you can connect it to, which will be the wire leading in > to the solenoid. You can have a break inside the solenoid winding, or its > earth connection, and the voltmeter won't show it. You can't get in to the > solenoid to test it without removing it, and this is an intermittent fault > remember. By the time you have taken it out the fault may have 'repaired' > itself again, and in any case you have broken the earth connection to the OD > body so can't test that anyway. It means getting under the car > with tools to remove the solenoid, a waste of time if the fault proves to be > electrical elsewhere. A resistance test will show if the solenoid winding > and its earth connection are correct, but you can only do that with the > power disconnected, when the OD will be disengaged anyway. The only way you > can be sure that the circuit is *complete and drawing the correct current* > is with an ammeter. > > I'll say again, simply connecting an ammeter to a parted connector in the > engine bay, driving along waiting for the intermittent fault to occur again, > and looking at the ammeter when the OD stops working is the easiest way of > proving whether the fault is electrical or not. > > It's a two-connection, real world monitor that allows the OD to operate > normally, that you can leave in > place until such time as the OD drops out again. The only thing to > bear in mind is that the connector you have parted may have been the source > of the bad connection, in which case the OD probably won't fail again due to > the disturbance, > ammeter connected or not. > > Only when you have proved current isn't flowing when it should be, would you > then test along the circuit with a voltmeter, *which needs the ammeter to be > left in circuit to be sure it hasn't repaired itself again*, to see where > along the circuit you stop getting voltage. If you can get all the way to > the connector on the wire leading into the solenoid and still have 12v, but > no current, then the problem is either with the solenoid or its earth, but > you can't be sure which. > > PaulH. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- Your reply shows that you have no idea what you > talking about. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 09:24:12 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: Mike Eldred ,, Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 12:27:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG makes the list I think he was referring to the soldiers who were stationed in Germany and other places after the war. Soldiers returning immediately (1945) after the war would not have had time to have sussed out and bought one. Also cars were not really available in quantity until after 1950. My Dad, with lots of clout, wanted a new car when he was in the Gold Coast (now Ghana) and his choice was a Standard Vanguard - silver, or a Standard Vanguard - silver, or ..............you guessed it, a Standard Vanguard - and yes! also silver. At 07:32 PM 9/6/2010, Mike Eldred wrote: >***5. MG: The MG became a household name on the strength of the number of >models introduced into North America by soldiers returning home from Europe >after the Second World War. The MGA was the first MG sports car to invade >North America...*** > >As an editor/reporter, I am often embarassed by my younger colleagues' failure >to do the most basic research. I can't decide if this writer thinks the MGA >is the "first" MG because of the "A," or if he thinks WWII ended in the mid >'50s. > >-Mike Eldred >(News Editor, Deerfield Valley News) > > > Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:17:42 -0700 > > To: mgs@autox.team.net > > From: don@napanet.net > > Subject: [Mgs] MG makes the list > > > > MG makes the list (in B.C., not sure if that is the case in the U.S.) . > > > > > > The top 10 collector cars in B.C. > > > > > > Boomers fuel collector-car market. > > > > Read more: > > >isorders/3143216/collector+cars/1565281/story.html?id=1565281#ixzz0ymo4bwAi>h >ttp://www.timescolonist.com/health/men/Skinny+male+mannequins+fuel+eating+dis >orders/3143216/collector+cars/1565281/story.html?id=1565281#ixzz0ymo4bwAi > > > > > > > > Don Scott > > Calistoga CA USA > > 1966 TR4A > > 1962 MGA Mk 2 > > 1973 MGB GT (selling) > > 1965 MGB (seeking) > > Misc. Japanese cars > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Mgs@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco@hotmail.com >_______________________________________________ > >Mgs@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie@look.ca Regards Barrie (705) 721-9060 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 09:50:50 2010 From: Mike Eldred To: , Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 00:07:39 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG makes the list It's hard to know what he's referring to - the model he calls "the first" in North America was introduced a decade after the end of WWII, and by the time the MGA was introduced in 1955, three models of MG sportscars had already "invaded North America." > Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 12:27:50 -0400 > To: redscirocco@hotmail.com; don@napanet.net; mgs@autox.team.net > From: barrie@look.ca > Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG makes the list > > I think he was referring to the soldiers who were stationed in > Germany and other places after the war. Soldiers returning > immediately (1945) after the war would not have had time to have > sussed out and bought one. Also cars were not really available in > quantity until after 1950. My Dad, with lots of clout, wanted a new > car when he was in the Gold Coast (now Ghana) and his choice was a > Standard Vanguard - silver, or a Standard Vanguard - silver, or > ..............you guessed it, a Standard Vanguard - and yes! also silver. > > > > At 07:32 PM 9/6/2010, Mike Eldred wrote: > >***5. MG: The MG became a household name on the strength of the number of > >models introduced into North America by soldiers returning home from Europe > >after the Second World War. The MGA was the first MG sports car to invade > >North America...*** > > > >As an editor/reporter, I am often embarassed by my younger colleagues' failure > >to do the most basic research. I can't decide if this writer thinks the MGA > >is the "first" MG because of the "A," or if he thinks WWII ended in the mid > >'50s. > > > >-Mike Eldred > >(News Editor, Deerfield Valley News) > > > > > Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:17:42 -0700 > > > To: mgs@autox.team.net > > > From: don@napanet.net > > > Subject: [Mgs] MG makes the list > > > > > > MG makes the list (in B.C., not sure if that is the case in the U.S.) . > > > > > > > > > The top 10 collector cars in B.C. > > > > > > > > > Boomers fuel collector-car market. > > > > > > Read more: > > > > > >isorders/3143216/collector+cars/1565281/story.html?id=1565281#ixzz0ymo4bwAi> h > >ttp://www.timescolonist.com/health/men/Skinny+male+mannequins+fuel+eating+di s > >orders/3143216/collector+cars/1565281/story.html?id=1565281#ixzz0ymo4bwAi > > > > > > > > > > > > Don Scott > > > Calistoga CA USA > > > 1966 TR4A > > > 1962 MGA Mk 2 > > > 1973 MGB GT (selling) > > > 1965 MGB (seeking) > > > Misc. Japanese cars > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > Mgs@autox.team.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe: > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco@hotmail.com > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Mgs@autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie@look.ca > > Regards > > Barrie > (705) 721-9060 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 09:51:24 2010 From: Murray Arundell To: Richard Ewald Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 06:37:15 +1000 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk....... On 07/09/2010, at 11:48 PM, Richard Ewald wrote: > Your reply shows that you have no idea what you talking about. > Voltage drop tests are way faster and easier than using an ammeter. > But what the hell do I know, I only taught this shit for 15 years for > a major car maker and have been repairing cars professionally for over > 40 years. > ::: Shrug::: > > > On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 5:21 AM, Paul Hunt > wrote: >> Only the voltage *past* the bad connection will go down. > NO shit Sherlock. > > If it is inside > the solenoid - either windings or earth connection > - you won't see that, >> and needs to be at the gearbox switch in order to 'see' anything else which >> is a pain to get to. > first off there had better be a voltage drop inside the solenoid or > you have an open circuit. The load (solenoid) uses up the voltage. > Secondly, it takes about 2 seconds to voltage drop the ground > connection to the solenoid, so that objection is BS > >> >> In no way is this easier than using an ammeter inserted at the manual > switch >> for dash switch cars, or the main harness to gearbox harness connector by >> the fusebox for other cars. > > Wait, let me get this straight. Touching a voltmeter to two ends of > the circuit is harder than breaking into the harness and wiring in an > ammeter? What color is the sky on your planet anyway? >> >> You *could* use a voltmeter if you inserted an additional resistance >> somewhere convenient (like where you would insert an ammeter above ...) and >> connected the voltmeter on the solenoid side of that. If you use a low >> enough resistance say 10 ohms the solenoid *should* still operate the OD, >> and with the rest of the circuitry operating as it should you should see >> about 8v on the meter. If the disconnection or bad connection is towards >> the supply from your voltmeter connection point i.e. through the manual >> switch then the voltage will drop lower (to zero if a full disconnection). >> If it is towards the solenoid and its earth the voltage will go higher, to >> full system voltage for a disconnection. But you need to take into account >> normal system voltage variations which could be from 12v to 14.5v. But a >> lot of fiddling about getting a appropriate resistance and working out the >> theoretical currents and voltages. > > You are not describing a voltage drop test but rather some type of > strange available voltage test. Voltage drop test do not need to take > into account source voltage, as you are only measuring the drop in a > particular circuit, not overall system voltage. What you are > suggesting is NOT what I suggested. Perhaps you should learn what the > hell you are talking about before you go criticizing others. Maybe if > you had read the article I wrote you might have a clue. But then > again you might not. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell@ghs.com.au > Murray G. Arundell Managing Director GHS Pty Ltd Glaziers Hardware Supplies Brisbane, Australia Phone: +617 3277 1255 Fax: +617 3875 1256 Email: arundell@ghs.com.au _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 10:15:58 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: , "Barrie Robinson" Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 16:47:39 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG makes the list I thought it was American soldiers stationed in Britain *during* the war, mainly bomber crews of which there must have been thousands, judging by the number of bases in Eastern England (122 apparently, having just returned from the annual Memorial Run around several such bases). Mainly TAs and a few TBs - "coffins riding on four harps", built before the war. After the war the TB became the TC with few modifications, some 10,000 being built in 4 years up to 1949, a substantial number being shipped to the USA. (http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgt.html) PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- >I think he was referring to the soldiers who were stationed in Germany and >other places after the war. Soldiers returning immediately (1945) after >the war would not have had time to have sussed out and bought one. > > At 07:32 PM 9/6/2010, Mike Eldred wrote: >>***5. MG: The MG became a household name on the strength of the number of >>models introduced into North America by soldiers returning home from >>Europe >>after the Second World War. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 10:16:14 2010 From: Jack Feldman To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 18:58:20 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG makes the list "The MGA was the first MG sports car to invade North America...***" I will gently disagree with that. As a teenager in the last century I was an electronic hobbyist (now KA9HEL). I subscribed to Mechanics, Illustrated, and Popular Science. Naturally I read the whole magazine. One of my favorite columns in MI was the automobile reviews by Tom McCahil. At the time I had no interest in cars, but I loved his writing style.. For some reason down the years I remembered his review of the first MGs in the country and how they were received. Little did I know that years later I would own an MG (actually two, and MGBGT & MGC). Years later I found a copy that that same magazine. I have it somewhere, and it was great to read the review again with the knowledge I have of what happened to MGs down the years. It was the T series just after the war that made the first MGs popular. I still remember his comment about how the tiny MGs would outrun bigger, more powerful cars on the twisty mountain rads of California. Found a copy of his review of the MiniMoke. He blasted it as a stupid, useless car. My GT license plate is 4EVRMG, and we all should make sure that happens. Jack _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 11:30:19 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 09:52:15 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG makes the list Yes, we all know this, but apparently the editors of the BC Times-Colonist (what a name!) do not. So perhaps corrective emails should be addressed to them. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/7/10 4:58 PM, Jack Feldman at qualitas.jack@gmail.com wrote: > "The MGA was the first MG sports car to invade North America...***" > > I will gently disagree with that. As a teenager in the last century I was an > electronic hobbyist (now KA9HEL). I subscribed to Mechanics, Illustrated, > and Popular Science. Naturally I read the whole magazine. One of my favorite > columns in MI was the automobile reviews by Tom McCahil. At the time I had > no interest in cars, but I loved his writing style.. For some reason down > the years I remembered his review of the first MGs in the country and how > they were received. Little did I know that years later I would own an MG > (actually two, and MGBGT & MGC). > > Years later I found a copy that that same magazine. I have it somewhere, and > it was great to read the review again with the knowledge I have of what > happened to MGs down the years. It was the T series just after the war that > made the first MGs popular. I still remember his comment about how the tiny > MGs would outrun bigger, more powerful cars on the twisty mountain rads of > California. > > Found a copy of his review of the MiniMoke. He blasted it as a stupid, > useless car. > > My GT license plate is 4EVRMG, and we all should make sure that happens. > > Jack _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 11:43:07 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Richard Ewald" Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 10:32:49 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an All correct, although only when *some* current is flowing, and exactly what I was saying when I explained how inserting a *known* resistance in a circuit allows you to use a measured voltage to calculate the current and resistance in the rest of the circuit as an alternative to measuring current directly if one doesn't have an ammeter. The whole point is that unless you do that, or measure current directly, you have no idea what current, if any, is flowing in the circuit. Measuring the volt-drop across individual connectors or switches will show zero volts if they are making a good connection, *but it will also show zero volts if no current is flowing at all because of an open-circuit elsewhere* which may be the case if an OD (for example) isn't operating at all and the there could be two or more faults. You can make all the *voltage* measurements you like on the circuit as delivered by the factory, and you still won't know whether the solenoid itself or its earth are high resistance or open-circuit. An open-circuit is simply a very high resistance fault, it's irrelevant whether one is more likely than the other. There is no point using a test method that will only reveal one type of fault but not the other. Measuring the current (or calculating it using a known resistance in series) will reveal both equally well. You might want to revisit your article on the Healey6 site (and incidentally I object to sites trying to install ActiveX objects on my computer surreptitiously). You write: "How an ohmmeter works: An ohmmeter puts a very small voltage (about .6-.75 Volts at 0. no amps) out on one lead, and measures what comes back on the other lead." This goes completely against Ohms Law (which *is* a Law and not a Theorum because it always works) which states that "the current through a conductor between two points is directly proportional to the potential difference or voltage across the two points, and inversely proportional to the resistance between them." An ohmmeter applies a voltage to the resistance being measured which passes a current through it and the ohmmeter, and the ohmmeter displays that current on a scale calibrated for resistance. You can test this for yourselves if you have two instruments. Select ohms on one and volts on the other, and connect the two sets of probes together. The ohmmeter will show a very high resistance, and the voltmeter will show a voltage. Now switch the voltmeter to current and the ohmmeter will show a low resistance and the ammeter a current. My analogue ohmmeter outputs 1.5v (i.e. the voltage of the battery) at 35mA, a digital 0.2v at 0.8mA, it will vary from instrument to instrument. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- You still don't understand. It is more likely a circuit with high resistance hot, not an open circuit hot (those are pretty rare) Assume you have a circuit drawing 8A @12V (assumed, I understand that the actual voltage will vary, but this is unimportant). Now further assume that you have a Lucas bullet connector with .3 ohms resistance. What is going to happen to the voltage across that connector? Will it stay the same? Will it go up? Will it go down? use Ohms law and solve for voltage E=IR E= 8 X .3 = 2.4V With an 8 am draw, a .3 ohm resistance will cause a 2.4 volt drop across that connector. If you put a voltmeter with the red lead on one side of that connector, and the black lead on the other side of that connector with the circuit on, it will register 2.4V. This voltage drop demonstrates that there is excessive resistance in that connection. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 16:43:03 2010 From: "Bill Mills" To: "Murray Arundell" , "Richard Ewald" Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:28:58 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an So, now that we are back on the topic of cats, any new recommendations about how to keep the neighbor's cat from sleeping on the convertible top? Bill '74B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Murray Arundell" To: "Richard Ewald" Cc: "MG List" Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:37 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an open circuit > Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk....... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 16:56:24 2010 From: Murray Arundell To: "Bill Mills" Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 08:37:28 +1000 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Rule 3.03 Murray G. Arundell Managing Director GHS Pty Ltd Glaziers Hardware Supplies Brisbane, Australia Phone: +617 3277 1255 Fax: +617 3875 1256 Email: arundell@ghs.com.au On 09/09/2010, at 8:28 AM, Bill Mills wrote: > So, now that we are back on the topic of cats, any new > recommendations about how to keep the neighbor's cat from sleeping > on the convertible top? > > Bill > '74B > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Murray Arundell" > > To: "Richard Ewald" > Cc: "MG List" > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:37 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking > for an open circuit > > >> Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk....... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 17:12:39 2010 From: Paul Root To: Bill Mills Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 17:58:49 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Keep it stowed where it belongs. On Sep 8, 2010 5:43 PM, "Bill Mills" wrote: > So, now that we are back on the topic of cats, any new recommendations about > how to keep the neighbor's cat from sleeping on the convertible top? > > Bill > '74B > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Murray Arundell" > To: "Richard Ewald" > Cc: "MG List" > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:37 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an > open circuit > > >> Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk....... > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 17:27:25 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 16:23:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. [now: cats] Of course, that just leads to the next question: how to keep it off the tonneau cover (or the seats)... ;) -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/8/10 3:58 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb@gmail.com wrote: > Keep it stowed where it belongs. > > On Sep 8, 2010 5:43 PM, "Bill Mills" wrote: >> So, now that we are back on the topic of cats, any new recommendations > about >> how to keep the neighbor's cat from sleeping on the convertible top? >> >> Bill >> '74B >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Murray Arundell" >> To: "Richard Ewald" >> Cc: "MG List" >> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:37 PM >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an > >> open circuit >> >> >>> Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk....... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 17:42:34 2010 From: Murray Arundell To: Max Heim Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 09:35:12 +1000 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. [now: cats] A Rottweiler perhaps? Murray G. Arundell Managing Director GHS Pty Ltd Glaziers Hardware Supplies Brisbane, Australia Phone: +617 3277 1255 Fax: +617 3875 1256 Email: arundell@ghs.com.au On 09/09/2010, at 9:23 AM, Max Heim wrote: > Of course, that just leads to the next question: how to keep it off > the > tonneau cover (or the seats)... > > ;) > > > -- > > Max Heim > '66 MGB GHN3L76149 > If you're near Mountain View, CA, > it's the primer red one with chrome wires > > > on 9/8/10 3:58 PM, Paul Root at ptrmgb@gmail.com wrote: > >> Keep it stowed where it belongs. >> >> On Sep 8, 2010 5:43 PM, "Bill Mills" wrote: >>> So, now that we are back on the topic of cats, any new >>> recommendations >> about >>> how to keep the neighbor's cat from sleeping on the convertible top? >>> >>> Bill >>> '74B >>> >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Murray Arundell" >>> To: "Richard Ewald" >>> Cc: "MG List" >>> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:37 PM >>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. >>> Checking for an >> >>> open circuit >>> >>> >>>> Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk....... > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell@ghs.com.au _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 18:57:47 2010 From: Eric To: MG List Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 10:04:53 +0930 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an > any new recommendations about how to keep the neighbor's cat from > sleeping on the convertible top? Paul Root wrote: > Keep it stowed where it belongs. > > I hope you are not suggesting any animal cruelty here! Eric _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 19:30:09 2010 From: Murray Arundell To: Eric Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:03:17 +1000 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Any cat that sleeps on my MGs top forgoes its right to protection from animal cruelty...... Murray G. Arundell Managing Director GHS Pty Ltd Glaziers Hardware Supplies Brisbane, Australia Phone: +617 3277 1255 Fax: +617 3875 1256 Email: arundell@ghs.com.au On 09/09/2010, at 10:34 AM, Eric wrote: >> any new recommendations about how to keep the neighbor's cat from >> sleeping on the convertible top? > > > Paul Root wrote: >> Keep it stowed where it belongs. >> >> > > I hope you are not suggesting any animal cruelty here! > > > Eric > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell@ghs.com.au _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 19:32:34 2010 From: "Bill Mills" To: "Eric" , "MG List" Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 21:23:12 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an I assume you are referring to "just behind the ears". Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric" To: "MG List" Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 8:34 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an open circuit >> any new recommendations about how to keep the neighbor's cat from >> sleeping on the convertible top? > > > Paul Root wrote: >> Keep it stowed where it belongs. >> >> > > I hope you are not suggesting any animal cruelty here! > > > Eric _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 21:51:47 2010 From: "riverside" To: "Bill Mills" , "Murray Arundell" Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 22:38:01 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Let the dog sleep up there?. Ron S. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Mills" To: "Murray Arundell" ; "Richard Ewald" Cc: "MG List" Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:28 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an open circuit > So, now that we are back on the topic of cats, any new recommendations > about how to keep the neighbor's cat from sleeping on the convertible top? > > Bill > '74B > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Murray Arundell" > To: "Richard Ewald" > Cc: "MG List" > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:37 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an > open circuit > > >> Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk....... > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside@southslope.net _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 8 22:17:09 2010 From: "riverside" To: "riverside" , "Bill Mills" Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 23:04:45 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an or you might set acouple of mouse traps on the top. Ron S. ----- Original Message ----- From: "riverside" To: "Bill Mills" ; "Murray Arundell" ; "Richard Ewald" Cc: "MG List" Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 10:38 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an open circuit > Let the dog sleep up there?. > Ron S. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill Mills" > To: "Murray Arundell" ; "Richard Ewald" > > Cc: "MG List" > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:28 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an > open circuit > > >> So, now that we are back on the topic of cats, any new recommendations >> about how to keep the neighbor's cat from sleeping on the convertible >> top? >> >> Bill >> '74B >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Murray Arundell" >> To: "Richard Ewald" >> Cc: "MG List" >> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:37 PM >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for >> an open circuit >> >> >>> Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk....... >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside@southslope.net > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside@southslope.net _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 02:32:21 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Richard Ewald" Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 08:46:52 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an It's not me that is missing the point or failing to understand, you don't seem to understand when we describe the same thing in different ways e.g. additional resistance in series with the circuit and how it can be used. But invoking headlights when the issue is with the overdrive is pointless. Forgive me for stating the 'bleedin obvious' (as Basil Fawlty would say) but you can *see* when a headlight is on normally, dim or off altogether by looking at it. You can't see if the overdrive solenoid has normal, lower than normal, or no current at all flowing through it *except by measuring the current in the circuit* with an ammeter inserted at one single point. If the headlamp filament is broken all your multiple voltage tests along the circuit will tell you nothing useful, except that you have 12v at the bulb. Ditto the solenoid winding if it is that which is broken. Until you can see that you will get nowhere. I'm sure everyone else is regarding this discussion with either amusement, irritation or the delete key. I'm also sure that you will continue to recommend your way and I will recommend mine, the difference being that mine will deliver something useful! Thank you and good night. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- You are still missing the point. Let's take a lighting circuit for example as it may be easier to understand _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 05:23:56 2010 From: "mgbob@juno.com" To: bmills46@earthlink.net Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 10:49:26 GMT Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Set a small dog on the top. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- So, now that we are back on the topic of cats, any new recommendations about how to keep the neighbor's cat from sleeping on the convertible top? Bill '74B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Murray Arundell" To: "Richard Ewald" Cc: "MG List" Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:37 PM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an open circuit > Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk....... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 05:23:57 2010 From: "mgbob@juno.com" To: riverside@southslope.net Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 10:53:24 GMT Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an This mouse-trap suggestion really does work, and works better if traps are set underneath a single sheet of newspaper. When the trap trips, the sound made is a sharp, loud whack. Quite effective. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- or you might set acouple of mouse traps on the top. Ron S. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 05:41:18 2010 From: Paul Root To: "mgbob@juno.com" Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 06:30:16 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an My cat (deceased) would often chase dogs 6-7 times his size out of 'his' yard. He maxed out at 12 lbs, and wouldn't stand for dogs. Of course, he never faced a German Shepard or Doberman just a few setters and mutts. He also never paid any mind to the car. On Sep 9, 2010, at 5:49 AM, mgbob@juno.com wrote: > Set a small dog on the top. > Bob > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > > So, now that we are back on the topic of cats, any new recommendations about > how to keep the neighbor's cat from sleeping on the convertible top? > > Bill > '74B > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Murray Arundell" > To: "Richard Ewald" > Cc: "MG List" > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:37 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an > open circuit > > >> Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk....... > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 10:42:03 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:32:46 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. [cats] Actually, I don't see what harm the cat is doing by sleeping on the top, anyway. I'm sure it's keeping the birds away. Car covers, however, are another story. The cats seem to love sharpening their claws on them. The corners are completely shredded. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/9/10 4:30 AM, Paul Root at ptrmgb@gmail.com wrote: > My cat (deceased) would often chase dogs 6-7 times his size out of 'his' yard. > He maxed out at 12 lbs, and wouldn't stand for dogs. Of course, he never faced > a German Shepard or Doberman just a few setters and mutts. > > He also never paid any mind to the car. > > On Sep 9, 2010, at 5:49 AM, mgbob@juno.com wrote: > >> Set a small dog on the top. >> Bob >> >> >> ---------- Original Message ---------- >> >> So, now that we are back on the topic of cats, any new recommendations > about >> how to keep the neighbor's cat from sleeping on the convertible top? >> >> Bill >> '74B >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Murray Arundell" >> To: "Richard Ewald" >> Cc: "MG List" >> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:37 PM >> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an >> open circuit _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 14:39:29 2010 From: Mike Eldred To: , , Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 16:30:58 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an Yes. buy the cat his own MG. > From: bmills46@earthlink.net > To: arundell@ghs.com.au; richard.ewald@gmail.com > Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:28:58 -0400 > CC: mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an open circuit > > So, now that we are back on the topic of cats, any new recommendations about > how to keep the neighbor's cat from sleeping on the convertible top? > > Bill > '74B > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Murray Arundell" > To: "Richard Ewald" > Cc: "MG List" > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:37 PM > Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an > open circuit > > > > Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk....... > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco@hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 15:13:56 2010 From: "Ed Woods" To: Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 17:12:51 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. List, Buy the cat a Triumph TR. It will have an ammeter as part of its standard instrumentation. Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 15:26:25 2010 From: Bill Mills To: Ed Woods , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 17:19:15 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Anyone tried using hot pepper on the top to discourage the cat?? Bill '74 B -----Original Message----- >From: Ed Woods >Sent: Sep 9, 2010 5:12 PM >To: mgs@autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. > >List, > >Buy the cat a Triumph TR. It will have an ammeter as part of its standard >instrumentation. > >Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 20:08:02 2010 From: Dan Dwelley To: Bill Mills , Ed Woods , Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 19:05:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. In some countries...hot pepper would just be garnish to go with the cat. ;o) Dan >----- Original Message ---- >From: Bill Mills >To: Ed Woods ; mgs@autox.team.net >Sent: Thu, September 9, 2010 5:19:15 PM >Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. >Anyone tried using hot pepper on the top to discourage the cat?? >Bill >'74 B _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 9 20:39:25 2010 From: "dannyvarnado" To: "Paul Hunt" , Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 19:39:56 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Shock Oil Thanks for the info. I think I'll try the fork oil with the swelling agent. If I can get the seals to swell, I want have to keep adding oil. LOL. Danny V. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hunt" To: "dannyvarnado" ; Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 1:31 AM Subject: Re: [Mgs] Shock Oil > I've been using the same hydraulic oil in both jacks and dampers for 40 > years (OK, not much in either case) without problems with either i.e. from > foaming. An advantage of fork > oil can be if it contains a seal swelling agent, but whether that is just > snake oil advertising or fact is anyone's guess. > > PaulH. > > ----- Original Message ----- >> Is there any oil suitable for MG shocks other than actual "shock oil"? >> I have heard of people successfully using hydraulic jack oil in their >> shocks. >> Not sure if I want to try that though. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 07:39:28 2010 From: "Eugene Balinski" To: Dan Dwelley ,Bill Mills Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:32:37 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. All, I have lost the thread here. Did the original issue poster ever find the problem with his OD ? If so, could he please share it with us ? Thanks, Gene 80 B --------------------------------------------------------------------- Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 07:55:01 2010 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 07:50:22 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. I have not yet had time to get into the O/D. I do have a plan though. I based on a better understanding of how the O/D works and the electrics, I am pretty convinced now that it is a pressure problem. It does not fully engage once it is hot. It also does not fully disengage. I am probably going to crack it open and replace the seals and the solenoid. Thanks for your help though! The flame war can continue now. :) On 09/10/2010 07:32 AM, Eugene Balinski wrote: > All, > > I have lost the thread here. Did the original issue > poster ever find the problem with his OD ? If so, could he > please share it with us ? > > Thanks, > > Gene > > 80 B _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 08:15:46 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Eugene Balinski" , Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:06:44 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Depends on whether he used a voltmeter or an ammeter to check the electrical side ... ----- Original Message ----- > I have lost the thread here. Did the original issue > poster ever find the problem with his OD ? If so, could he > please share it with us ? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 08:23:52 2010 From: To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:18:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGA TOP SEALING TO WINDSHIELD I had a top installed on my MGA a while back. Install looks good but there is air leaking under the bow. I have one of those clips to hold the center of the bow down but I have not installed it. You have to drill holes in the windshield frame to mount it. Any comments? Tom Gunderson 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 09:54:24 2010 From: Bill Mills To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:52:13 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Mgs] Radiator (metal) fan blades, which way? While replacing the water pump last night I could not decide which way around the 6 blade metal fan should be attached. The metal fan blades are cut such that there is a "cut away" side to each blade. Should this "cut away" side be to the front (radiator side) or to the back (block side)? Bill MGBGT _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 09:56:32 2010 From: Pete Groh To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:57:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mgs] Wanted lock insert FP 660 & FS 955 + Info on British car I came across this web page and bookmark the site. http://www.angliaobsolete.com/keys.html When cars are restored locks may have been changed. If you get a car build record, may find that information on the correct keys for your car. http://www.angliaobsolete.com/keys.html I have a ad posted in the British car forum looking for a ignition switch lock insert with letters/number on the face of the switch, FP 660 and FS 955. bWe wanted to let you know that your ad, titled "Lock insert needed FP 660 & FS 955 (ignition switch)", has been approved and is now visible.b Here is the link to the ad: http://www.britishcarforum.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=151 Kind regards, Pete Groh (KeyGuy) _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 10:02:18 2010 From: WSpohn4@aol.com To: pete_groh@yahoo.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:01:31 EDT Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wanted lock insert FP 660 & FS 955 + Info on British car Trying to get the original lock barrels is way over my threshold between fussy and anal. Reminds me of my friend that insisted on faking factory spot welds on the underside of the new floors in his XKE...'just because'. I guess it is a harmless enough mania.... Bill In a message dated 9/10/2010 8:57:29 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, pete_groh@yahoo.com writes: When cars are restored locks may have been changed. If you get a car build record, may find that information on the correct keys for your car. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 10:55:08 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:50:30 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wanted lock insert FP 660 & FS 955 + Info on British car << Trying to get the original lock barrels is way over my threshold between fussy and anal. >> Bill, normally I would agree but in this case I believe that the insert[s] Pete is looking for is for BJ-8 Glove Box which [dangerously, I admit] I assume you know has been NLA for YEARS !!! Currently IIRC, the brand new repro is in the vicinity of $325.00 not including shipping !! Makes inserts cheap!! Ed BJ-7 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 11:10:02 2010 From: WSpohn4@aol.com To: shop@justbrits.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:04:43 EDT Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wanted lock insert FP 660 & FS 955 + Info on British car No kidding! Did they use a barrel different from the normal stuff - usually there is enough crossover that you can pick the stuff up used from other cars. Wilmott Breeden made em all as I recall, and manufacturers just ordered by the numbers. Bill In a message dated 9/10/2010 9:56:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, shop@justbrits.com writes: Currently IIRC, the brand new repro is in the vicinity of $325.00 not including shipping !! Makes inserts cheap _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 11:10:54 2010 From: John Di Fede To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 13:11:07 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when Hot Andrew; John Twist has three You Tube video sessions dealing with O/D repair. Here is a link to the first one. http://www.youtube.com/user/Universitymotorsltd#p/u/4/XPSgUeHAy8E While the video's may not address your exact problem, they will show you how to take the unit apart and put it back together again. I recently had to repair my O/D and I found the information helpful. Good luck John DiFede _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 12:53:39 2010 From: Simon Matthews To: Bill Mills Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:53:38 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radiator (metal) fan blades, which way? Bill, Think of it this way: When looking at the front of the engine (from in front of the car), it turns clockwise. When turning clockwise, the blades need to pull air through the radiator, which means that the leading edges will be close to the radiator and the trailing edges will be close to the engine. Simon On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 8:52 AM, Bill Mills wrote: > While replacing the water pump last night I could not decide which way around the 6 blade metal fan should be attached. The metal fan blades are cut such that there is a "cut away" side to each blade. Should this "cut away" side be to the front (radiator side) or to the back (block side)? > > Bill > MGBGT > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 13:13:29 2010 From: Simon Matthews To: Bill Mills Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:13:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radiator (metal) fan blades, which way? And .... I just realized that I did not answer your question! Simon On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 11:53 AM, Simon Matthews wrote: > Bill, > > Think of it this way: > When looking at the front of the engine (from in front of the car), it > turns clockwise. When turning clockwise, the blades need to pull air > through the radiator, which means that the leading edges will be close > to the radiator and the trailing edges will be close to the engine. > > Simon > > > > On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 8:52 AM, Bill Mills wrote: >> While replacing the water pump last night I could not decide which way around the 6 blade metal fan should be attached. The metal fan blades are cut such that there is a "cut away" side to each blade. Should this "cut away" side be to the front (radiator side) or to the back (block side)? >> >> Bill >> MGBGT _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 14:38:59 2010 From: "Tom Gunderson" To: Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:39:43 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA shoe Brakes My brack pedal got hard on my drive home from work. 12 miles. I looked at the brake fluid and it was full. I am going to check the wheels in the morning. What do you think? Tom Gunderson 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 14:56:09 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:45:03 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA TOP SEALING TO WINDSHIELD For center latch installaton, drill and counter-sink two holes for flat head screws in windscreen frame, top center, to attach the latch plate. Attach the latch to center of wood bow with two wood screws just above the steel bow. If you have original type 1500 wood bow there will be no wood extending above the steel bow, so it doesn't work. In that case you have to replace the wood bow with the later 1600 style. Alternate might be to install a small metal L-bracket on top of the 1500 type wood bow to accept a pair of machine screws for attachment of the Latch. For original center latch style see here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/top/top114.htm For differences in wood bows see here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/top/top107.htm Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA wih an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 10:18 AM 9/10/2010 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >I had a top installed on my MGA. .... clips to hold the center of >the bow down .... You have to drill holes in the windshield frame to >mount it. Any comments? >.... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 14:56:17 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: Bill Mills , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:51:51 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radiator (metal) fan blades, which way? Any curved fan blade goes with the convex side forward. Early MGB metal blade has notches in the forward edges to clear the rearward extending bottom tank of the radiator. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/pics/b_fan.jpg Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 11:52 AM 9/10/2010 -0400, Bill Mills wrote: >.... I could not decide which way around the 6 blade metal fan >should be attached. The metal fan blades are cut such that there is >a "cut away" side to each blade. Should this "cut away" side be to >the front (radiator side) or to the back (block side)? >.... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 14:59:39 2010 From: Bill Mills To: Barney Gaylord , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 17:00:19 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radiator (metal) fan blades, which way? This answered what I was trying to ask. That is what I was trying to ask about, the notches, mine was installed correctly around. Just wanted to confirm before I re-installed it. Bill -----Original Message----- >From: Barney Gaylord >Sent: Sep 10, 2010 4:51 PM >To: Bill Mills , mgs@autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radiator (metal) fan blades, which way? > >Any curved fan blade goes with the convex side forward. > >Early MGB metal blade has notches in the forward edges to clear the >rearward extending bottom tank of the radiator. See here: >http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/pics/b_fan.jpg > >Barney Gaylord >1958 MGA with an attitude >http://MGAguru.com > > >At 11:52 AM 9/10/2010 -0400, Bill Mills wrote: >>.... I could not decide which way around the 6 blade metal fan >>should be attached. The metal fan blades are cut such that there is >>a "cut away" side to each blade. Should this "cut away" side be to >>the front (radiator side) or to the back (block side)? >>.... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 15:09:25 2010 From: Simon Matthews To: thgun@comporium.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:05:56 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA TOP SEALING TO WINDSHIELD How fast do you have to be going to get air leaking under the bow? Simon On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 7:18 AM, wrote: > I had a top installed on my MGA a while back. Install looks good but there is air leaking under the bow. I have one of those clips to hold the center of the bow down but I have not installed it. You have to drill holes in the windshield frame to mount it. Any comments? > Tom Gunderson 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 15:11:47 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:07:57 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA shoe Brakes What's the problem? Are you saying the brake pedal was soft before? -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/10/10 1:39 PM, Tom Gunderson at thgun@comporium.net wrote: > My brack pedal got hard on my drive home from work. 12 miles. I looked at the > brake fluid and it was full. I am going to check the wheels in the morning. > What do you think? > > Tom Gunderson 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 15:24:32 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: "Tom Gunderson" , Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:22:59 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA shoe Brakes By "hard" I presume you mean rock solid pedal within an inch of top or pedal travel. This can happen when fluid does not return to the master cylinder reservoir when released. When fluid gets hot it expands and can cause higher pressure in the curcuit (blocked with no return). This can caus dragging of the brake shoes and pads resulting in hot hubs and wheels, bad fuel economy, worn brake parts. This could be caused by master pushrod being adjusted too long so piston cannot return all the way to the end plate. Check that first. When at rest the pushrod needs just a touch of wiggle for a very small amount of freeplay (pre-travel on the pedal). At 04:39 PM 9/10/2010 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >My brack pedal got hard on my drive home from work. 12 miles. I >looked at the brake fluid and it was full. I am going to check the >wheels in the morning. What do you think? >.... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 10 18:54:17 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 19:49:42 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wanted lock insert FP 660 & FS 955 + Info on British car << No kidding! >> Nope, Bill !!! << Did they use a barrel different from the normal stuff - usually there is enough crossover that you can pick the stuff up used from other cars. >> Apparently NOT so with JUST the BJ-8 Glove Box !!! You could alway go to the Archives, select Healeys and then search for same. !! Parts for 100S's are easier to find !! LOL !! Ed _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 10:00:45 2010 From: "Tom Gunderson" To: "Mga List" Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 12:01:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGA REAR VIEW MIRROR Are there captive nuts in the dash that mount the mirror? My mirror stim wobbles. I would like to try to tighten the stim to the base to stop this. Tom Gunderson 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 11:56:06 2010 From: cyberemp@comcast.net To: thgun@comporium.net Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 17:53:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA TOP SEALING TO WINDSHIELD Well, without drilling, you can use a C clamp in the center of the gap. I used to use a 1and a 1/4 inch C clamp to seal the top bow to the windshield frame. us a bit of rubber or leather if your chrome is nice. I think it was 1 1/4" Measure first. :) Eric 46 MGTC 59 MGA 65 MGB 70 MGB 71 MGB so many cars, so little parking _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 20:57:23 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: "Tom Gunderson" , Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 21:57:59 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA REAR VIEW MIRROR The mirror attaches to the body with two #10-32 screws, and caprive nuts under the body cowl. The stem wiggles when it comes loose from the base. The stem is supposed to be swaged in place like a rivet, but they often work loose. You may be able to hold the assembly upside down and use a center punch and hammer to re-set the riveted bottom end of the stem. Sometimes it works. Sometimes it comes loose again in a short while. One time I drilled and tapped the bottom of the sem and installed a screw with a flat washer to hold it all tight together. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 12:01 PM 9/11/2010 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >Are there captive nuts in the dash that mount the mirror? My mirror stim >wobbles. I would like to try to tighten the stim to the base to stop this. >.... 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 23:29:41 2010 From: don To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 22:29:45 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Peter Egan articles The latest Peter Egan articles in the new R&T are great reads for anyone interested in old British sports cars. As usual, Peter's writings are the best thing in the magazine. http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/dog-years-and-englishmen http://www.roadandtrack.com/special-feature/heart-of-gold-electrics-by-lucas Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1966 TR4A 1962 MGA Mk 2 1973 MGB GT (selling) 1965 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 11 23:57:35 2010 From: Murray Arundell To: don Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 15:57:08 +1000 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Peter Egan articles Nice couple of articles..... we've all had trips like that..... Murray Arundell 1937 MG-SA 1945 MG-TC 1965 MGB-V8 1998 MG-F vvc 2009 BMW R1200RT bike 2009 Mercedes ML (My truck) 2009 Mercedes E280 (Wife's Car) On 12/09/2010, at 3:29 PM, don wrote: > The latest Peter Egan articles in the new R&T are great reads for > anyone interested in old British sports cars. As usual, Peter's > writings are the best thing in the magazine. > > http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/dog-years-and-englishmen > > http://www.roadandtrack.com/special-feature/heart-of-gold-electrics-by-lucas > > > > Don Scott > Calistoga CA USA > 1966 TR4A > 1962 MGA Mk 2 > 1973 MGB GT (selling) > 1965 MGB (seeking) > Misc. Japanese cars > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/arundell@ghs.com.au > Murray G. Arundell Managing Director GHS Pty Ltd Glaziers Hardware Supplies Brisbane, Australia Phone: +617 3277 1255 Fax: +617 3875 1256 Email: arundell@ghs.com.au _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 13 12:34:31 2010 From: Matt Trebelhorn To: MG List Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:32:32 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB brake caliper seals Not having found a source for *just* the metal rings, I ordered a rebuild kit from Moss. Last night, I rebuilt the second caliper -- in about 15 minutes. Easy. The method on Barney's website -- which I referenced in my message last week -- consists simply of putting the first seal in place, inserting the piston most of the way, and sliding the seal and second ring over the piston; then putting a flat piece of material (I used an old brake pad) over the piston and compressing the piston, seal, and ring into the caliper. I removed the pistons originally with a combination of methods seen on this list: 3 of the 4 came out easily with a plumbing test cap from the hardware store. (Actually, I used a combination of pieces from 2 such caps: the lower "cone" from a 1 1/2"piece, to fit inside the piston, and the rubber and top cone, and the other hardware, from a 2" cap.) The last piston resisted the plumbing cap removal method, so I made a fitting that combined a brake fitting and a grease fitting, and used a grease gun to push the last piston out. Thanks to the list. The first time I did this job (14 years ago?), it was horrible -- awkward, slow, dirty, difficult. Using the combination of methods I learned here, it was not. So, thanks. Matt On 7 Sep, 2010, at 6:26 AM, Matt Trebelhorn wrote: > I was rebuilding the calipers for my B this weekend, and managed to > mangle two of the metal rings that retain the outer seals. > > (I would not have done so had I checked Barney's webpage first. > The method on this page: > http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/brakes/bt104b.htm > works brilliantly.) > > My question: can the metal rings be bought separately? I don't > want to waste a rebuild kit if I only need the metal rings. > > One cool thing I figured out and wanted to pass along: u-bolts > from the rear axle have the same bolt spacing as the calipers and > make a good stand for holding the caliper while painting it. (The > caliper I did rebuild is now grey; no red/yellow/purple etc. for me) > > Matt > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ > matt.lists@trebelhorn.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 14 19:12:45 2010 From: Paul Root To: don Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 20:12:52 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Peter Egan articles In High School, I read my brother's R&T and his Autoweek (loved Satch Carlson). When I went off to college, I got my own subscription. And for the next 15 years or more, I read it. For many years, cover to cover. Slowly over time, I found I was reading less and less. Finally, I found that Egan was the only reason to read the magazine. When one of your writers didn't even own a car, it's a sign. If you don't own a car, you can't know anything about it. Driving a different brand new thing every day has nothing to do with cars. I ended that subscription, and started up Grassroot's Motorsports. Eventually, I crossed over to Classic Motorsports, since I don't really race. Lately, I've migrated back to Autoweek. I'll probably let Classic run out. These articles are great. I remember resolving to read 'Side Glances' online every month. I usually get maybe 2 a year. Just never think about it. On Sep 12, 2010, at 12:29 AM, don wrote: > The latest Peter Egan articles in the new R&T are great reads for > anyone interested in old British sports cars. As usual, Peter's > writings are the best thing in the magazine. > > http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/dog-years-and-englishmen > > http://www.roadandtrack.com/special-feature/heart-of-gold-electrics-by-lucas > > > > Don Scott > Calistoga CA USA > 1966 TR4A > 1962 MGA Mk 2 > 1973 MGB GT (selling) > 1965 MGB (seeking) > Misc. Japanese cars > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 15 07:43:27 2010 From: Peter Caldwell To: Paul Root ,don Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:43:55 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Peter Egan articles At 08:12 PM 9/14/2010, Paul Root wrote: >In High School, I read my brother's R&T and his Autoweek (loved Satch >Carlson). You can catch Satch in the Hemming's Sports and Imports, along with many other really good articles. It's the best mag right now. Peter c _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 15 07:49:12 2010 From: Peter Caldwell To: Paul Root ,don Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:47:48 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Peter Egan articles At 08:12 PM 9/14/2010, Paul Root wrote: >In High School, I read my brother's R&T and his Autoweek (loved Satch >Carlson). You can catch Satch in the Hemming's Sports and Imports, along with many other really good articles. It's the best mag right now. Peter c EDIT... I meant Sports and Exotic. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 15 09:24:36 2010 From: Fred/Sue Schroeder To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:25:18 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: Re: [Mgs] "for sale" protocol Good morning all, What is the list protocol about letting others know of an MG for sale? I don't want to violate that understanding. Thanks. Fred S. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 16 16:27:51 2010 From: "Tom Gunderson" To: "Mga List" Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:28:30 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA Is anybody using leds for turn and stop lights. Tom Gunderson 1957, 1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 16 16:43:12 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 15:41:04 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA I wouldn't recommend it. There just isn't enough surface area in the tiny MGA lenses to fit enough LEDs facing the proper direction to illuminate anything. If you look at LED lamps in modern cars, you will see the LEDs arranged in neat arrays, concentric circles, or rows, so that all of them are pointing parallel. The silly "clusters" of LEDs sold as replacements for standard lamps are basically useless, as most of the LEDs are not pointing in a direction that can be seen. The incandescent bulb was transparent -- the LED cluster is not. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/16/10 3:28 PM, Tom Gunderson at thgun@comporium.net wrote: > Is anybody using leds for turn and stop lights. > > Tom Gunderson 1957, 1500 MGA rst. > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 16 17:28:57 2010 From: "Chad" To: "'Max Heim'" , "'MG List'" Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:29:36 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA Tom, This guy makes really good sets. Quite a few of us in the club have bought them. REALLY bright, and the directional argument doesn't apply since there are so many LEDs and they are so bright. http://classicautoleds.com/ Chad Cooper -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 5:41 PM To: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA I wouldn't recommend it. There just isn't enough surface area in the tiny MGA lenses to fit enough LEDs facing the proper direction to illuminate anything. If you look at LED lamps in modern cars, you will see the LEDs arranged in neat arrays, concentric circles, or rows, so that all of them are pointing parallel. The silly "clusters" of LEDs sold as replacements for standard lamps are basically useless, as most of the LEDs are not pointing in a direction that can be seen. The incandescent bulb was transparent -- the LED cluster is not. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/16/10 3:28 PM, Tom Gunderson at thgun@comporium.net wrote: > Is anybody using leds for turn and stop lights. > > Tom Gunderson 1957, 1500 MGA rst. > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72@airmail.net No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3137 - Release Date: 09/15/10 13:34:00 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 16 17:29:37 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: "Tom Gunderson" , "Mga List" Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:29:43 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA At 06:28 PM 9/16/2010 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote: >Is anybody using leds for turn and stop lights. >.... Straight in line LED plug in bulbs are pretty useless, as they are not bright enough, they are directional, and they point in the wrong direction. The universal plug in articulated round array from about 2004 is a little better as a tail light, but still not bright enough for brake light or turn signal. It is also directional, not very visible from the side, and requires a specially fabricated mount to hold it in the right position. I haven't tried them yet, but there is hope with a new product. In 2009 BMC British Automobile, LLC produced a new LED array that is custom tailored for the MGA tail light. See here: http://bmcautos.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=19 These are available for either positive or negative earth. As with anything electronic, I would recommend converting the electrical system to negative earth first. I have heard from a couple people intending to install these parts, but so far no user report. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 16 18:26:26 2010 From: "Shop at \" Just Brits \"" To: Chad Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 19:19:26 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA << This guy makes really good sets. Quite a few of us in the club have bought them. REALLY bright, and the directional argument doesn't apply since there are so many LEDs and they are so bright. >> For what cars, Chad ?? Ed '67 BJ-7 [Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates AH BJ 7 ] Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 16 18:58:16 2010 From: Paul Root To: "Tom Gunderson" Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 19:50:24 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA I have some 1157's tail lights for my MGB. They work great. On Sep 16, 2010, at 5:28 PM, Tom Gunderson wrote: > Is anybody using leds for turn and stop lights. > > Tom Gunderson 1957, 1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 17 03:12:46 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Tom Gunderson" , "Mga List" Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:56:37 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA There are plug-in replacements, but as well as having a smaller transmissive area (the reflector making the total transmissive area larger than just the incandescent bulb, but not reflecting anything from the LED array) the problem with these is that they can be *too* bright. No one wants to be driving behind over-bright tail lights in the wet at night, and one comparative test I saw had much less distinction between tail and brake with LED than with incandescent, which is another hazard i.e. you can easily miss the brake lights coming on unless you happen to be looking directly at the back of the car. The design of some of the modern light clusters using LEDs is appalling, one of the worst being a tiny turn 'lens' about an inch in diameter with a ring of brake light LEDs around it. If the brake lights are on you can only see the indicators come on if you are looking directly at the light cluster. Yes, I know 'mirror, indicate, manoeuvre' but how many people do that these days? Most seem to operate the indicator stalk at the same time as turning the wheel, having braked already. There is an even bigger problem with turn signals in that there is not yet (to my knowledge) a flasher unit that indicates a failure of a corner like they do with incandescent bulbs, and they won't work properly with the standard flasher units. I nearly rear-ended a Range Rover a while ago who suddenly braked and turned without indicating, but as he did turn I could see the side flasher going but the rear wasn't. Some suppliers of these LED bulbs also supply a dummy load resistor so they flash at the proper rate, but as long as that dummy resistor is connected the flasher will tick away regardless of whether the LED units are working or not. There is a 'special' flasher unit available for use with these LED bulbs, but while that doesn't need a dummy load it also doesn't change its flashing rate to give a warning of failure of a corner. LED bulbs *will* last much longer than incandescents, but what about all those Lucas connections? It's an expensive (have you seen the price of that MGA/B array?) solution looking for a problem, and in the UK at least it is illegal to retrofit them for road use. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > Is anybody using leds for turn and stop lights. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 17 09:45:17 2010 From: "Vance Navarrette" To: "'Paul Hunt'" , "'Mga List'" Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 08:41:47 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA Has anyone tried these? http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&P age2Disp=%2Ftail-brake-turn.html These are much more reasonably priced, and have an omni-directional array that *seems* like it would solve the directionality and brightness issues. They fit the existing sockets. Like all LED lights, you would need to use an electronic flasher rather than a thermal flasher, but other than that, they seem like drop ins, yes? But as to the legality question, well, you are on your own. Vance -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Hunt Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 1:57 AM To: Tom Gunderson; Mga List Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA There are plug-in replacements, but as well as having a smaller transmissive area (the reflector making the total transmissive area larger than just the incandescent bulb, but not reflecting anything from the LED array) the problem with these is that they can be *too* bright. It's an expensive (have you seen the price of that MGA/B array?) solution looking for a problem, and in the UK at least it is illegal to retrofit them for road use. PaulH. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 17 09:46:53 2010 From: "Vance Navarrette" To: "'Paul Hunt'" , "'Mga List'" Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 08:46:41 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA By the way folks, lest anyone castigate me for simply showing the same problem LEDs that have been the target of so much criticism, please scroll down a bit on the hyperlink. My comments are directed at the replacement lamps that are based on SURFACE MOUNT LEDs, *NOT* the lamps at the top of the page that are merely clusters of conventional LEDS. The lamps at the top of the page would be highly directional, and therefore not well suited to our LBCs. Vance -----Original Message----- From: Vance Navarrette [mailto:v.navarrette@comcast.net] Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 8:42 AM To: 'Paul Hunt'; 'Mga List' Subject: RE: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA Has anyone tried these? http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&P age2Disp=%2Ftail-brake-turn.html These are much more reasonably priced, and have an omni-directional array that *seems* like it would solve the directionality and brightness issues. They fit the existing sockets. Like all LED lights, you would need to use an electronic flasher rather than a thermal flasher, but other than that, they seem like drop ins, yes? But as to the legality question, well, you are on your own. Vance _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 17 10:00:37 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: , "'Mga List'" Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 17:01:16 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA The two cylindrical surface-mount arrays *should* be better as they radiate sideways as well as backwards. But how much of that would engage with the reflector to project backwards I don't know, LED elements are usually relatively directional. An incandescent filament radiates pretty-well in all directions, except perhaps in a direct line off the end of the filament, but then they are usually curved or wavy anyway which overcomes that. *Conventional* electronic flashers are no good for LED bulbs that don't contain an equivalent load, they would flash way too fast, just as thermal flashers wouldn't flash at all. If any LED array contains an equivalent load then they would work equally well with thermal and electronic conventional flashers, by drawing the same current as an incandescent bulb. I've not (yet) seen a flasher unit specifically designed for LEDs that also indicates 'bulb' failure, like conventional thermal and electronic units do. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Like all LED lights, you would need to use an electronic flasher rather than a thermal flasher _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 17 11:48:26 2010 From: "Ed Woods" To: Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:48:44 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED BULBS FOR MGA List, These lighting discussions could be avoided if we'd only listen to JL: "Gentlemen don't motor about after dark". And as far as turn signals go, how about using the left/right arm? It's much larger than a LED array Or incandesant light. And can use fingers to convey additional information to other motorists! Kidding, kidding. The Other Ed _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 17 13:00:25 2010 From: Milton Olson To: Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:01:08 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine bearings from County. Does anyone have experience with the engine bearings offered by some of the MG parts venders with the brand name County? I just received a set of these and noted that the rod bearings and main bearings are made in Israel and the thrust bearing is made in India. I don't know if I want to use these. Any comments? Milt 1978 Midget _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 17 13:28:50 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: Milton Olson , Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:26:33 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine bearings from County. Some of the best engine parts come from India. Until quite revently they were still producing the B-series engine for internal use. Be aware that the package for the thrust bearing may say "Datsun" on it, which is perfectly legitimate (same parts). I dont know about parts made in Isreal, but they have been a high tech country for a long time. Also since engine bearings are of necessity a precision part, I suppose it would be tough to screw it up and still have a viable commercial part. I don't recall ever seeing bearings from any source with incorrect dimensions. $.02, Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 03:01 PM 9/17/2010 -0400, Milton Olson wrote: >Does anyone have experience with the engine bearings offered by some >of the MG parts venders with the brand name County? I just received >a set of these and noted that the rod bearings and main bearings are >made in Israel and the thrust bearing is made in India. I don't know >if I want to use these. Any comments? >.... _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 18 03:49:16 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Milton Olson" , Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:49:19 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine bearings from County. County Bearings were a very long established company with a good reputation. Now merged with Essex Bearings, it's anyone's guess at to the quality of parts today, no matter where they come from, unfortunately. ----- Original Message ----- > Does anyone have experience with the engine bearings offered by some of > the MG > parts venders with the brand name County? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 21 11:47:53 2010 From: To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 13:47:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Mgs] MGA rear hieght My rear body sits high on the left side about 1 1/2 inch. What is the best way to correct this? Tom Gunderson, 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 21 13:06:53 2010 From: Richard Gosling To: "" Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 20:06:23 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA rear hieght I hope the front left sits high by exactly the same amount - otherwise your car is badly twisted! Richard & Sammy (resorted to eBay to try and sell - any takers?) On 21 Sep 2010, at 06:47 PM, wrote: > My rear body sits high on the left side about 1 1/2 inch. What is the best way to correct this? > > Tom Gunderson, 1957,1500 MGA rst. > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rbgosling@googlemail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 21 13:13:06 2010 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 13:13:33 -0600 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA rear hieght Maybe he has a flat on the front right tire.. On 09/21/2010 01:06 PM, Richard Gosling wrote: > I hope the front left sits high by exactly the same amount - otherwise > your car is badly twisted! > > Richard& Sammy (resorted to eBay to try and sell - any takers?) > > > > On 21 Sep 2010, at 06:47 PM, wrote: > >> My rear body sits high on the left side about 1 1/2 inch. What is the best way to correct this? >> >> Tom Gunderson, 1957,1500 MGA rst. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rbgosling@googlemail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren@byu.net _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 21 13:31:31 2010 From: Barney Gaylord To: , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 14:31:53 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA rear hieght Most likely a collapsed spring, but first you have to determine which spring is bad. Put proper air pressure in tires first. Place a floor jack centered under rear axle, and lift rear tires off the floor. If it then sits level the front springs are okay, suspect bad rear spring. Place a floor jack centered under front frame cross member, and lift front tires off the floor. If it then sits level the rear springs are okay, suspect bad front spring. Always replace springs in matched pairs. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 01:47 PM 9/21/2010 -0400, Tom Gunderson (thgun@comporium.net) wrote: >My rear body sits high on the left side about 1 1/2 inch. What is >the best way to correct this? > >.... 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 21 13:58:04 2010 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:53:50 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA rear hieght I recall a thread from years back in which many persons reported asymmetrical rear height, particularly in MGBs, even with new springs fitted (even after swapping springs side to side, in one instance). Mine, for instance, has a noticeable tilt to the rear bumper. 1.5" seems a bit much, however. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires on 9/21/10 12:31 PM, Barney Gaylord at barneymg@mgaguru.com wrote: > Most likely a collapsed spring, but first you have to determine which > spring is bad. Put proper air pressure in tires first. > > Place a floor jack centered under rear axle, and lift rear tires off > the floor. If it then sits level the front springs are okay, suspect > bad rear spring. > > Place a floor jack centered under front frame cross member, and lift > front tires off the floor. If it then sits level the rear springs > are okay, suspect bad front spring. > > Always replace springs in matched pairs. > > Barney Gaylord > 1958 MGA with an attitude > http://MGAguru.com > > > At 01:47 PM 9/21/2010 -0400, Tom Gunderson (thgun@comporium.net) wrote: >> My rear body sits high on the left side about 1 1/2 inch. What is >> the best way to correct this? >> >> .... 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 21 14:42:30 2010 From: "Larry Daniels" To: , Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 15:43:01 -0500 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA rear hieght Put a 1 1/2 inch lift in your right shoe? -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 12:47 PM To: Subject: [Mgs] MGA rear hieght My rear body sits high on the left side about 1 1/2 inch. What is the best way to correct this? Tom Gunderson, 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ladaniels@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 21 15:48:21 2010 From: Dan DiBiase To: thgun@comporium.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 21:49:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA rear hieght Chiropractor? Dan D Central NJ USA '76 MGB Tourer '65 MGB Tourer (Project) NAMGBR #5-2328 http://dans65b.blogspot.com/ http://dans76b.blogspot.com/ http://dansautoblog.blogspot.com/ http://dans-life-blog.blogspot.com/ twitter: dandibiase ________________________________ From: "thgun@comporium.net" To: mgs@autox.team.net Sent: Tue, September 21, 2010 1:47:30 PM Subject: [Mgs] MGA rear hieght My rear body sits high on the left side about 1 1/2 inch. What is the best way to correct this? Tom Gunderson, 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 21 20:21:07 2010 From: "Vance Navarrette" To: "'MG List'" , Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 19:19:58 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA rear hieght Tom: While a spring can go bad, what is far more likely is that you have a set of perished bushings somewhere. The bushings are highly stressed, and they will cold creep over time, where the pin or bolt will migrate to one side of the bushing. This is most visibly under load, as the pin tends to return close to center when the load is removed. If the there is more lean in the rear than in the front, then it is most likely in the rear suspension. Replace the silentbloc bushings (both sides) and the shackle bushings being sure to get all 4 sets. Then if that fails, you are most likely looking at springs. All of this assumes you are confident the frame is straight, tires are the same size, suspension is correctly assembled, etc. You would be surprised the nonsense that gets perpetrated on LBC cars by DPOs. I will tell you about my TR6 sometime, but since it is off topic, can't do it here... Anyway, be sure that something simple is not the cause before you start wrenching on the car. Vance -----Original Message----- on 9/21/10 12:31 PM, Barney Gaylord at barneymg@mgaguru.com wrote: > Most likely a collapsed spring, but first you have to determine which > spring is bad. Put proper air pressure in tires first. > > Place a floor jack centered under rear axle, and lift rear tires off > the floor. If it then sits level the front springs are okay, suspect > bad rear spring. > > Place a floor jack centered under front frame cross member, and lift > front tires off the floor. If it then sits level the rear springs > are okay, suspect bad front spring. > > Always replace springs in matched pairs. > > Barney Gaylord > 1958 MGA with an attitude > http://MGAguru.com > > > At 01:47 PM 9/21/2010 -0400, Tom Gunderson (thgun@comporium.net) wrote: >> My rear body sits high on the left side about 1 1/2 inch. What is >> the best way to correct this? >> >> .... 1957,1500 MGA rst. _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 22 01:39:07 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: , Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 08:23:26 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA rear hieght Depends what's wrong. A problem at one corner can show itself at the opposite corner. Could be a problem with a spring or its mountings (hopefully not a wheel or tyre including pressure but it has happened ...). If you are going by the *body* then it could be how that is mounted to the chassis, you need to take measurements from the *chassis* to flat and level ground, standing on its wheels. Barney's jacking under the centre of the rear axle could show a twisted chassis as well as a bad front spring, if the drop heights from the chassis at the back are different to each other. You would have to check the drop heights at the front (tyres on ground) whilst the rear is raised, if they are the same as each other then it is a twisted chassis. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > My rear body sits high on the left side about 1 1/2 inch. What is the best > way to correct this? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 23 13:18:24 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:17:27 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] MGB GT for sale Just in case anyone is looking for an MGB GT there was a very tidy one for sale at the Bronte show last Sunday (largest Brit show in NA). Chap wanted Cdn$9,500 which looked a bargain as it looked in fine fettle. Anyone interested it is Mike at 416-418-4876 which is Milton, Ontario Regards, Barrie Robinson barrie@look.ca 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 in great nick Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 23 13:54:20 2010 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net,mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:54:45 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Frontpage - off subject Is anyone out there a Frontpage expert. I want to know how to add video clips to my www.britcot.com web site. Incidentally, if you haven't looked at the site recently then you should as it has a few more "artisans" on. Regards, Barrie Robinson barrie@look.ca 705-721-9060 MGB GT V8 in great nick Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm www.britcot.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 25 20:09:29 2010 From: Simon Matthews To: Barrie Robinson Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 19:10:10 -0700 Subject: Re: [Mgs] The BCCI web site "BCCI" -- perhaps not the best name. My immediate thought was "Bank of Credit and Commerce International". Simon On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 1:06 PM, Barrie Robinson wrote: > I think some of you know about the British Car Cottage Industries web > site. I started it because I found there were many really good > "amateur" artisans out there that made bits for Brit cars, or > provided services, but could not afford to advertise because of their > low volume, Also there are many who do stuff just as a hobby. So > www.britcot.com was born. > Now I wonder if you would help me in saying whether or not you think > the addition of a "treasure trove" page is a good idea? I recently > found a chap in the Netherlands with a ton of stuff - old radios, old > clocks (magnificent!), Lucas and other stuff. He wanted to sell some > of it but did not have the means to do that. So I wonder if I should > add a page which lists these people, what they have in general terms, > and their email address. Thus a viewer could email and ask "Do you > have a Back Seat Mouth Stopper for my 1832 V8 1hp Royal > Stallion". This would not include the usual purveyors of which there > are many, and excellent, but would just bring those cobwebbed mounds > into the open. It would NOT be just for casual sales and thus > entries would be vetted for rubbish entries. > > Regards, > > Barrie Robinson > barrie@look.ca > 705-721-9060 > MGB GT V8 in great nick > Aston Martin 1955 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration > http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm > www.britcot.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 25 23:54:36 2010 From: Glenn Schnittke To: mgs list , NashvilleBritishCars@yahoogroups.com Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 00:49:02 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Why we own an old British open two seater A couple of hours ago (it's now just after midnight as I write this) Jette and I went around the corner to dog-sit for some friends who are out of town. Her first inclination was to take the pickup truck because she's used to it and it was easily available under the deck. Mine was to take the MGB because, well it was just a gorgeous cool night. We were not disappointed. It's a three minute drive between our house and theirs. Two if I hit it. On the way back home she made the grave mistake of looking up. We wound up sitting at one stop sign for about a half hour looking at one of the most beautiful cloud covers I've ever seen. The high cirrus clouds had three wave patterns that intersected around a waning gibbous moon that had a ring of rainbow around it. An occasional star peaked through. The clouds were moving so quickly we could barely point to one portion of the sky when another would demand our attention. At one point the entire sky looked like a ripple tank of fish ribs made out of fresh picked cotton. Then five or six columns or big fat fingers came in from the west underneath the fishribs and finally broke up into huge popcorn kernels and swept past into a clear deep star-filled night sky. We finally had to get home to rest our necks. I wish I had better words to describe it all, but suffice it to say it took us 45 minutes to drive home because we had to stop so much and look up. -- Glenn Schnittke ----------------------- g.schnittke@comcast.net Home - 615-837-5883 Cell - 615-319-5534 _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 26 15:15:38 2010 From: Jack Feldman To: barrie@look.ca Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:15:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] The BCCI web site I vote Yes! Jack _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 28 19:24:04 2010 From: "Ray Graham" To: Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 20:24:26 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Frozen Choke Cable Guys: I installed a new Moss choke cable on my 66 MGB a couple years ago and not used a lot but now it is frozen and won't pull out. Any suggestions? Replace it again or repair? If repair, how? Thanks, Ray Graham _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 29 02:09:56 2010 From: Richard Gosling To: Ray Graham Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 09:09:58 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Frozen Choke Cable If you disconnect the cable at the carb end, can you withdraw it? If you can, and there are no broken cables along the length, give it some lube and slip it back in. As long as it slides freely, you are good. If it it still excessively stiff, either the inner cable has swollen (rust?) or the outer cable is kinked or squashed, in which case a replacement is called for. If there are any broken strands, replace, 'cos these will catch on the inside surface of the sheath. At least you can get away with just replacing the inner cable, which saves you having to re-route and re-attach the sheath. If you can't get the inner cable out at all, I guess it has to be a replacement. Cheers, Richard & Sammy ('73 Black Tulip BGT, still looking for a caring new owner!) _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 29 02:12:01 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: "Ray Graham" , Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 08:51:51 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Frozen Choke Cable It seems to me that if, when disconnected from the carb (i.e. removing any potential problems with the carb linkages), the inner can't be pulled out, you have little option but to replace. You could try stretching the outer in various places and dribbling in some releasing fluid I suppose. Did you lubricate the new cable when you fitted it? PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > I installed a new Moss choke cable on my 66 MGB a couple years ago and not > used a lot but now it is frozen and won't pull out. Any suggestions? _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 29 03:13:05 2010 From: "Paul Hunt" To: , "MG Digest" Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2010 09:58:50 +0100 Subject: Re: [Mgs] Change from Generator to 1-wire Alternator Is this *really* a 1-wire i.e. no indicator wire? Or what some people refer to as a 1 wire which really is 1 output wire plus an indicator wire i.e. a 2-wire? In either case it is fairly straightforward, but you will have to use the Sprite diagrams to see how the original regulator connected to the rest of the car i.e. confirm the colours used. If the wires have been changed as well then you will have to trace back what wires you *do* have to be sure what you need to connect and which to leave disconnected (both ends!). Going by the MGB there were 3 browns on the B terminal one of which went to the solenoid to charge the battery, and the other two to the loads such as the ignition switch, fusebox, lighting switch. These three must remain connected together, and the alternator output will be connected to them. In your case the two wires on A1 *probably* feed the loads, and A is connected to the battery cable at the solenoid. The should also be a dynamo field connection (brown/green, almost certainly F on your regulator), a dynamo output connection (brown/yellow D), and a warning light connection (brown/yellow) these last two connected together (probably your two yellows), none of these are required with a true 1-wire alt. However the one from the warning light must either be taped up or the bulb removed as it is live with the ignition on, although if it *does* short to earth it will just cause the light to glow, it won't burn wiring. With a 2-wire this last goes to the alternator indicator terminal. It will almost certainly need the warning light connected to the indicator terminal as most alternators need this to start charging. With 2 black wires on the E terminal I'm guessing that one connects to the body and the other to some other component that still needs an earth, i.e. the regulator terminal is being used as a 'daisy-chain' interconnection point, so if the regulator is physically removed these two must remain connected together. Presumably the cut-off switch has facilities to disconnect the charging system and ignition as well as the battery? If so the alternator output should go via one of these. You may also need a different switch, those intended for use with alternators usually have a resistor to ground on the alternator wire to stop it going over-voltage and damaging itself if the switch is turned off with the engine still spinning. Alternatively you could add a resistor to ground, you will have to do some research as to value. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- > ... But, this is pushing me into installing the mini 1-wire > alternator I've had sitting on the parts shelf for a year. I need to do > some minor mods to get it to fit. But, they're easy. Problem is how to > deal with the wires on the regulator. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums