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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Peter Schauss" <rpschauss@gmail.com>, "Mgs-Digest" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <501899d2.8a26340a.4d6e.52a5@mx.google.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 12:28:36 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coil for 1980 MGB (was intermittent miss)
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think what Richard is trying to say is that the coil and the ballast 
resistance must be carrying a current for you to see the 6v you expect.  Of 
the two wires on the coil +ve one should come from the ignition source via 
the ballast resistance, and the other one should come from the bypass 
contact on the solenoid, both white/light-green.  There should be a third, 
white wire on that terminal which goes to the CEI amplifier, and two 
white/black wires on the coil -ve.  One of these comes from the CEI 
amplifier and the other goes to the tach.

Because the CEI system is variable dwell you may not get a current flowing 
with the ignition on but the engine stopped.  To measure the voltage and 
check that you do have a ballast resistance in circuit and the correct 
resistance coil, remove the white/black from the CEI unit that goes to the 
coil -ve, and connect an earth to the coil -ve instead.  With the ignition 
on measure the coil +ve wrt earth and you should see 6v.  If you see 12v 
there is no ballast in circuit, or the coil is open circuit or not earthed 
properly.  If you see anything else, like 8v, you will have to measure the 
individual coil and ballast resistance with the ignition off and the wires 
disconnected to see where the problem lies (8v is typically caused by trying 
to use a 12v coil, which measure 3 ohms, in series with a ballast).

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> If the system is ballasted, shouldn't the wire coming from the CEI 
> amplifier
> show 6 volts or is there something different about the CEI ignition 
> system?
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  1 15:47:04 2012
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From: "Phil Bacon" <pboldtrix@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 21:48:27 GMT
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Replacing door buffers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers:   Have four new rubber door buffers for my 67 MGBGT.  Can anyone
advise the best way to do this job?  What type of screws hold the hinge --
Phillips?, Pozidrive?, or something else?  Remove the hinges from door or from
frame, or both?  I'm concerned with not screwing up the fit on my doors, so is
there a special way to do it?   Thanks in advance Phil Bacon
____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5019a43ec06ac243e0ec7st54vuc
_______________________________________________

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Phil Bacon" <pboldtrix@juno.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <20120801.174827.27848.0@webmail12.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 09:18:28 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacing door buffers
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Pozidrive.  Strikes me you have to remove the hinge from the A-post at the 
very least in order to get at the back of the piece that holds the buffer. 
As well as the four visible screws holding the hinge to the A-post there is 
a nut on the back accessed by removing the splash plate behind the front 
wheel.  Removing either door from hinge or hinge from A-post will obviously 
mean re-aligning the door, but if it's right now you should be able to get 
it right again.  If the hinges have been painted when fitted to the A-post 
you will probably have to cut along the seam or risk a 'tear' in the paint 
on the A-post, but at least that will help you get the hinge back in the 
right place, leaving you with just the door on the hinge to get right. 
However if you have enough padding under the door you may be able to deal 
with the hinge while still attached to the door.  But the down-side is that 
you will have to man-handle the door while getting the hinge reattached to 
the A-post, it's much easier to fit the hinges first then slide the door 
onto the hinges.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Listers:   Have four new rubber door buffers for my 67 MGBGT.  Can anyone
> advise the best way to do this job? 
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  5 17:50:58 2012
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From: "Frank Marrone" <itswonderful@comcast.net>
To: "'Mgs-Digest'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 16:31:16 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac1zYdhKvbj5ym3zRcurZJ+xtf2U0g==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs.  Someone even put
helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped
much.  The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous.  I
did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement
springs that start sagging soon after installation.  I'd like to avoid that!
I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock
ride height.  Where is a good place to start looking?  Where should I avoid?

Frank in Cloverdale
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  5 18:33:47 2012
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Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2012 17:14:43 -0700
To: mgs@autox.team.net
From: Don <don@napanet.net>
References: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Frank,

I had a '73 B GT that listed to one side, and I bought a pair of new 
rear springs from NOS Locators.  Front of car was level, and it had 
new coil springs.  All of the springs I put on the car made in UK by 
the way.  I put the new rear springs on the car and the car sat more 
uneven than it did with the original springs on it.  They sent a 
replacement spring for the spring that was the weaker of the 
two.  That didn't remedy it.  Off the car, the springs would match 
great, but on the car was a different story.  So, I took both of the 
new springs to a local auto spring shop, and gave them the specs on 
how the car was sitting and they re-arched them.  I put them on the 
car and it was finally level and looked right.  After this 
experience, I would just take original old springs into such a place 
to start with and not bother with new ones.

I don't know which Cloverdale you are in, but if you are in 
California, the shop to go to is this one.  There must be such shops 
in different cities in the US and Canada.

The shop in Santa Rosa did great work in my opinion.

http://www.springworks.com/


Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF
1962 MGA Mk 2
1967 MGB
1963-7 MGB (seeking)
Misc. Japanese cars




springwepdsprinAt 04:31 PM 8/5/2012, Frank Marrone wrote:
>I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs.  Someone even put
>helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped
>much.  The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous.  I
>did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement
>springs that start sagging soon after installation.  I'd like to avoid that!
>I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock
>ride height.  Where is a good place to start looking?  Where should I avoid?
>
>Frank in Cloverdale
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  5 18:48:59 2012
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Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2012 17:32:22 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation
Thread-Index: Ac1zYdhKvbj5ym3zRcurZJ+xtf2U0gACRlHq
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hmm. I can recall a lot of posts about experiences with replacement springs
that resulted in too high ride height. Mine took over 15 years to level out.
I wasn't aware that "too saggy" was a problem with replacements. But that
might be a recent phenomenon.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/5/12 4:31 PM, Frank Marrone at itswonderful@comcast.net wrote:

> I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs.  Someone even put
> helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped
> much.  The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous.  I
> did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement
> springs that start sagging soon after installation.  I'd like to avoid that!
> I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock
> ride height.  Where is a good place to start looking?  Where should I avoid?
> 
> Frank in Cloverdale
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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References: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 05:23:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Frank Marrone <itswonderful@comcast.net>, 'Mgs-Digest' <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Frank, you might want to take a glance through the archives (click the link at
the bottom of the message and pick 'MGs) and search
on 'leaf springs'). Lots
of good info going back to 1998.....

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Frank Marrone
<itswonderful@comcast.net>
To: 'Mgs-Digest' <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Sunday, August 5, 2012 7:31 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring
Recommendation
 
I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs. 
Someone even put
helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem
to have helped
much.  The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of
ridiculous.  I
did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality
replacement
springs that start sagging soon after installation.  I'd like to
avoid that!
I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate
and stock
ride height.  Where is a good place to start looking?  Where should
I avoid?

Frank in Cloverdale
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  6 07:47:40 2012
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 13:31:45 GMT
To: don@napanet.net
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

  My experience was a variation of Don's.
  Installed new rear springs for '72 GT, and rear was way too high. Went to a
spring company, where owner said problem was front springs being low.
Installed new front springs and it was much better, but still about two inches
high at the rear. Back to the spring shop--they do not re-arch or de-arch
springs this small.  Went to another spring shop, and learned that they do not
work on, or make, small springs either. Their suggestion was to remove the
second leaf (the 10-12 inch one) and that the car would eventually settle to
level.
  It is almost level now. Despite the hassles involved, the exercise was
worthwhile. The GT rides and handles much better than before. Though stiffer
and the motion is quicker, the ride is more comfortable.  The exhaust system
is intact too.
   Removal of the leaf required finding new spring bolts.  An article in MGB
Driver in recent past suggested moving the unwanted leaf from original
location to the top, where it is not supporting weight. That would still raise
the car by the height of thickness of the spring (3/16 or so). If ride height
is acceptable, that would save buying spring bolts.

Bob
'72 GT
'53 TD, with fine, original springs

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Don <don@napanet.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2012 17:14:43 -0700

Frank,

I had a '73 B GT that listed to one side, and I bought a pair of new
rear springs from NOS Locators.  Front of car was level, and it had
new coil springs.  All of the springs I put on the car made in UK by
the way.  I put the new rear springs on the car and the car sat more
uneven than it did with the original springs on it.  They sent a
replacement spring for the spring that was the weaker of the
two.  That didn't remedy it.  Off the car, the springs would match
great, but on the car was a different story.  So, I took both of the
new springs to a local auto spring shop, and gave them the specs on
how the car was sitting and they re-arched them.  I put them on the
car and it was finally level and looked right.  After this
experience, I would just take original old springs into such a place
to start with and not bother with new ones.

I don't know which Cloverdale you are in, but if you are in
California, the shop to go to is this one.  There must be such shops
in different cities in the US and Canada.

The shop in Santa Rosa did great work in my opinion.

http://www.springworks.com/


Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF
1962 MGA Mk 2
1967 MGB
1963-7 MGB (seeking)
Misc. Japanese cars




springwepdsprinAt 04:31 PM 8/5/2012, Frank Marrone wrote:
>I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs.  Someone even put
>helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped
>much.  The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous.  I
>did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement
>springs that start sagging soon after installation.  I'd like to avoid that!
>I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock
>ride height.  Where is a good place to start looking?  Where should I avoid?
>
>Frank in Cloverdale
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  7 11:57:57 2012
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Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 12:53:55 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:14.0) Gecko/20120713
	Thunderbird/14.0
To: Frank Marrone <itswonderful@comcast.net>
References: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net>
Cc: 'Mgs-Digest' <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

   I replaced the rear springs in my '69 B with Moss's reproductions.  
That was in the mid- 1990's.  We had quite a long thread on the MG list 
at the time.  It was called "Ride Height." Don't know if the archives go 
back that far.  Anyhoo, I've had no complaints with the rear springs 
from Moss.  Maybe someone has used them recently.
Anybody?

CR
On 8/5/2012 6:31 PM, Frank Marrone wrote:
> I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs.  Someone even put
> helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped
> much.  The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous.  I
> did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement
> springs that start sagging soon after installation.  I'd like to avoid that!
> I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock
> ride height.  Where is a good place to start looking?  Where should I avoid?
>
> Frank in Cloverdale
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 14:25:44 -0400
From: Peter Schauss <rpschauss@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Intermittent miss - fixed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to everyone who gave advice and suggestions.  I replaced the
coil and after about 50 miles the miss has not returned.

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
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Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 15:08:41 -0400
To: ccrobins@ktc.com,Frank Marrone <itswonderful@comcast.net>
From: Barrie Robinson <barrie@look.ca>
References: <006a01cd7362$694ebed0$3bec3c70$@comcast.net>
	<50215633.2030608@ktc.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rear Leaf Supplier Spring Recommendation
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, I did !

I had Moss springs fitted all round and it worked out perfect - Mind 
you the garage that did it were no fools and not into American stuff !!!


At 12:53 PM 8/7/2012 -0500, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>   I replaced the rear springs in my '69 B with Moss's reproductions.
>That was in the mid- 1990's.  We had quite a long thread on the MG 
>list at the time.  It was called "Ride Height." Don't know if the 
>archives go back that far.  Anyhoo, I've had no complaints with the 
>rear springs from Moss.  Maybe someone has used them recently.
>Anybody?
>
>CR
>On 8/5/2012 6:31 PM, Frank Marrone wrote:
>>I have a '73 MGB-GT with badly sagging rear leaf springs.  Someone even put
>>helper springs on the stock springs but it sure doesn't seem to have helped
>>much.  The back of the car is way too low and looks kind of ridiculous.  I
>>did some reading and see a lot of complaints about bad quality replacement
>>springs that start sagging soon after installation.  I'd like to avoid that!
>>I'm looking for stock or slightly stiffer than stock spring rate and stock
>>ride height.  Where is a good place to start looking?  Where should I avoid?
>>
>>Frank in Cloverdale
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>Mgs@autox.team.net
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie@look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie@look.ca
705-721-9060 
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello  Bill IMO, the Moss seal is not needed.
Align bore the block to bring the main bearing clearance down to .001" (with
new bearings).
Done.
My car has virtually no leaks.
Do not use the Moss front seal, I have a part # for a thinner seal which works
better.
Len


-----Original Message-----
From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
To: 'mg-t' <mg-t@autox.team.net>; mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Aug 8, 2012 5:14 pm
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal


Friend just brought over his '52 TD and showed me the oil leaking from the
weep hole in the bell housing.  Probably a drop every 10 seconds as it sat
there idling.

Couldn't think of anything good to say to him but it must be the rear main
seal.  It there anything else up there that could be leaking so badly?

I just looked in the Moss catalog at the seal replacement kit that they
sell.  Does anyone here have any experience with it?  Are there any other
good alternatives out there?

Lastly, May I presume that this cannot be done with the engine in situ?  I
have never pulled a TD engine, any particular tricks?  Must I pull the
engine/tranny together?

Thanks to all,
Bill
______________________________________________

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From: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>
To: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>, "'mg-t'" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,
	"mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal
Thread-Index: Ac11qY7enHh7ksZdS9er9DxK9gTBAgAcTShw
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 10:40:18 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill,

I have the same leak on my TD engine following rebuilding the engine. I used
the Moss rear seal.  The car is not on the road yet and I haven't done
anything about it yet but I probable will have to.  It is my understanding
that the weep hole is designed for oil to drip.  What I don't know is how much
is designed to drip.  Please keep me informed as to how you address the
problem, the solution and results.

Thanks,

Ronald Olds

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Wbeech
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2012 5:06 PM
To: 'mg-t'; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal

Friend just brought over his '52 TD and showed me the oil leaking from the
weep hole in the bell housing.  Probably a drop every 10 seconds as it sat
there idling.

Couldn't think of anything good to say to him but it must be the rear main
seal.  It there anything else up there that could be leaking so badly?

I just looked in the Moss catalog at the seal replacement kit that they sell.
Does anyone here have any experience with it?  Are there any other good
alternatives out there?

Lastly, May I presume that this cannot be done with the engine in situ?  I
have never pulled a TD engine, any particular tricks?  Must I pull the
engine/tranny together?

Thanks to all,
Bill
______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  9 06:01:46 2012
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From: Mike E <redscirocco@hotmail.com>
To: <wbeech@flash.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 07:56:44 -0400
References: <20FC54BCFD71433F9046D58533D9BC4F@bboffice>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Bill,
Also see what Abingdon Spares has to offer.  I've often found them to be less
expensive, with the same or better quality.  They ONLY sell MG T parts, so
they cater to us.   www.abingdonsparesllc.com  They're a bit old fashioned -
you can look at their catalog and prices online, but you'll have to phone in
your order.  They ship very quickly.  I have no experience with either
company's rear main seals, however.NFI, and all that.
Also, if anyone is concerned about ZDDP, Abingdon Spares sells their own blend
of oil specially formulated with additives for our cars.  Look under
"specials."
Best of luck to you and your friend!
-Mike Eldred
> From: wbeech@flash.net
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 16:05:39 -0500
> Subject: [Mg-t] TD Oil Seal
>
> Friend just brought over his '52 TD and showed me the oil leaking from the
> weep hole in the bell housing.  Probably a drop every 10 seconds as it sat
> there idling.
>
> Couldn't think of anything good to say to him but it must be the rear main
> seal.  It there anything else up there that could be leaking so badly?
>
> I just looked in the Moss catalog at the seal replacement kit that they
> sell.  Does anyone here have any experience with it?  Are there any other
> good alternatives out there?
>
> Lastly, May I presume that this cannot be done with the engine in situ?  I
> have never pulled a TD engine, any particular tricks?  Must I pull the
> engine/tranny together?
>
> Thanks to all,
> Bill
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 21:47:57 -0700
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] MG in the Olympics closing ceremony?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

What was it? TD?

Simon
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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 00:57:25 -0400
From: "Pete Chast" <pchast@francomm.com>
User-Agent: Opera Mail/11.64 (Win32)
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG in the Olympics closing ceremony?
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Thought I saw a bugeye.



On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 00:47:57 -0400, Simon Matthews  
<simon.d.matthews@gmail.com> wrote:

> What was it? TD?
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>, "Pete Chast" <pchast@francomm.com>
References: <CAEUYfyN5Nwon3rscyY=v8XoYYWyZveP-duFGTBfCau829WvArw@mail.gmail.com>
	<op.wiyqpze0sjevdj@pete200>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 09:08:53 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG in the Olympics closing ceremony?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Both, although the TD could well have been a TA/B/C as I don't remember 
seeing a front bumper.  There was an MGA, an MGF and a big Healey.  Wife 
thought she spotted a BGT.

PaulH

----- Original Message ----- 
> Thought I saw a bugeye.
>
>> What was it? TD?
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	<op.wiyqpze0sjevdj@pete200> <52125FCEC98E4513B17955C0556DB87E@paul>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 13:24:14 -0700
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG in the Olympics closing ceremony?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

One forum reported an MGB and MGB-GT.

Looking at some photos, it was not a TD, as I had suggested  -- something
earlier.

Simon


On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 1:08 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>wrote:

> Both, although the TD could well have been a TA/B/C as I don't remember
> seeing a front bumper.  There was an MGA, an MGF and a big Healey.  Wife
> thought she spotted a BGT.
>
> PaulH
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> Thought I saw a bugeye.
>>
>>  What was it? TD?
>>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 18:11:23 -0400
From: "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Z-USANET-MsgId: XID016qHmwLX4656X22
Subject: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
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Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" position,
there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing more. It always
starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again.

I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about.

Douglas McKinnie
'70 MGB-GT
Western Massachusetts
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 13 16:13:41 2012
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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 15:15:18 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
Thread-Index: Ac15oR75N04mohQkIkO4UY/5zPHeMg==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have experienced this symptom in the past at various times. To me, it is a
prompt to start checking, cleaning and tightening connections.


on 8/13/12 3:11 PM, Douglas McKinnie at d.mckinnie@usa.net wrote:

> Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" position,
> there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing more. It always
> starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again.
> 
> I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about.
> 
> Douglas McKinnie
> '70 MGB-GT
> Western Massachusetts


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 13 16:23:08 2012
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To: mgs@autox.team.net, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net>
References: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 18:21:38 -0400
From: "Pete Chast" <pchast@francomm.com>
User-Agent: Opera Mail/11.64 (Win32)
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
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Douglas,

I'd be checking and cleaning all contacts including the chassis
 from engine ground. Something could be loose/not grounding properly.

Pete Chast

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 18:11:23 -0400, Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie@usa.net>  
wrote:

> Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start"  
> position,
> there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing more. It  
> always
> starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again.
>
> I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about.
>
> Douglas McKinnie
> '70 MGB-GT
> Western Massachusetts
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:  
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchast@francomm.com


-- 
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From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 16:02:48 -0700
To: Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie@usa.net>
Cc: "<mgs@autox.team.net>" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 13, 2012, at 3:11 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net> wrote:

> Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" position,
> there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing more. It
always
> starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again.
>
> I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about.

Oh the timing!

Over the past few weeks, I had noticed that my starter was slowing.  One day,
it didn't do anything but 'click'.

In my case, it was the starter itself that was close to dead.  Without a load,
it would turn (slowly), but on the car, it did nothing but draw amps.

As Max wrote, make sure your connections are and grounds are good and clean.
If the problems go away, you're golden for a while.  Worst case, you need to
be concerned about a dying starter, but if yours is anything like mine, it'll
let you know bad things are coming as long as you are listening.

With an assistant, put the car on a jackstand, chock the rear wheels, put the
brake on, put the car in neutral and check the voltage
 * at the output of the starter relay.  Should be about 12V when the assistant
turns the key to start.
 * at the solenoid control circuit; since this is the other end of the output
of the relay, it should also be about 12V.
 * at the second large pole of the starter, which provides rich chunky amps to
turn the starter motor.

You are playing with high-amp unfused circuits, so be careful.

In my case, the starter relay was loud enough to mask the starter solenoid
circuit, so I shunted the battery directly to the control circuit, discovered
the solenoid was working "click!", but the starter wouldn't turn.


Fortunately, they are (in the words of our local auto electrics specialist)
"highly rebuildable".
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs-archive@autox.team.net

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 13 17:42:08 2012
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From: "Chad" <mgb72@airmail.net>
To: "'Aaron Whiteman'" <awhitema@panix.com>, "'Douglas McKinnie'"
	<d.mckinnie@usa.net>
References: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net>
	<59B4C2B2-3DE4-4391-91F1-59883B79BFE8@panix.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 18:44:34 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
	engine=2.50.10432:5.7.7855,1.0.260,0.0.0000
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Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The high torque starters are great.  There is a seller on Ebay under "MG MGB
MGC Modern Gear Reduction Starter Motor MGB-GT"  sells them for $190, much
cheaper than the regular sources.  One thing nice is they take much less
power to run them, nice feature if you are having issues in that department.

Chad

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Aaron Whiteman
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 6:03 PM
To: Douglas McKinnie
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 13, 2012, at 3:11 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net> wrote:

> Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" 
> position, there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing 
> more. It
always
> starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again.
>
> I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about.

Oh the timing!

Over the past few weeks, I had noticed that my starter was slowing.  One
day, it didn't do anything but 'click'.

In my case, it was the starter itself that was close to dead.  Without a
load, it would turn (slowly), but on the car, it did nothing but draw amps.

As Max wrote, make sure your connections are and grounds are good and clean.
If the problems go away, you're golden for a while.  Worst case, you need to
be concerned about a dying starter, but if yours is anything like mine,
it'll let you know bad things are coming as long as you are listening.

With an assistant, put the car on a jackstand, chock the rear wheels, put
the brake on, put the car in neutral and check the voltage
 * at the output of the starter relay.  Should be about 12V when the
assistant turns the key to start.
 * at the solenoid control circuit; since this is the other end of the
output of the relay, it should also be about 12V.
 * at the second large pole of the starter, which provides rich chunky amps
to turn the starter motor.

You are playing with high-amp unfused circuits, so be careful.

In my case, the starter relay was loud enough to mask the starter solenoid
circuit, so I shunted the battery directly to the control circuit,
discovered the solenoid was working "click!", but the starter wouldn't turn.


Fortunately, they are (in the words of our local auto electrics specialist)
"highly rebuildable".
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72@airmail.net
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 13 18:09:22 2012
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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 17:06:35 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
Thread-Index: Ac15p9X51ISZeUPFSiOQBKo29IUjZgABOX2AAAD7tvo=
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

IME, starting is not something the MGB has trouble with, assuming the
battery has enough juice to turn the engine over at all. So long as it
rotates, even slowly, it will fire on the first or second turn. In other
words, the problem is seldom with inadequate starter torque -- it's almost
always a charging or ignition problem.

When I had a bad ring gear, I used to start the car by opening the driver's
door and pushing backwards out of the totally level driveway with my left
foot, and popping the clutch in reverse when it hit the slight slope of the
curb cut. That wasn't a whole lot of rotation, but it worked every time.

At the other end, I would leave it in an empty area of a parking lot, and
push hard enough to coast for a few feet -- same result. A hill was even
better, of course.

I have to say I wasn't very fond of the "poke-and-pray" Mark I starter -- a
bad pinion is what ruined my ring gear, which then proceeded to quickly ruin
2 new pinions in short order. I wound up replacing the whole mess with a
late 70s OD tranny, starter and flywheel.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/13/12 4:44 PM, Chad at mgb72@airmail.net wrote:

> The high torque starters are great.  There is a seller on Ebay under "MG MGB
> MGC Modern Gear Reduction Starter Motor MGB-GT"  sells them for $190, much
> cheaper than the regular sources.  One thing nice is they take much less
> power to run them, nice feature if you are having issues in that department.
> 
> Chad
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Aaron Whiteman
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 6:03 PM
> To: Douglas McKinnie
> Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Aug 13, 2012, at 3:11 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net> wrote:
> 
>> Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start"
>> position, there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing
>> more. It
> always
>> starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again.
>> 
>> I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about.
> 
> Oh the timing!
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I had noticed that my starter was slowing.  One
> day, it didn't do anything but 'click'.
> 
> In my case, it was the starter itself that was close to dead.  Without a
> load, it would turn (slowly), but on the car, it did nothing but draw amps.
> 
> As Max wrote, make sure your connections are and grounds are good and clean.
> If the problems go away, you're golden for a while.  Worst case, you need to
> be concerned about a dying starter, but if yours is anything like mine,
> it'll let you know bad things are coming as long as you are listening.
> 
> With an assistant, put the car on a jackstand, chock the rear wheels, put
> the brake on, put the car in neutral and check the voltage
>  * at the output of the starter relay.  Should be about 12V when the
> assistant turns the key to start.
>  * at the solenoid control circuit; since this is the other end of the
> output of the relay, it should also be about 12V.
>  * at the second large pole of the starter, which provides rich chunky amps
> to turn the starter motor.
> 
> You are playing with high-amp unfused circuits, so be careful.
> 
> In my case, the starter relay was loud enough to mask the starter solenoid
> circuit, so I shunted the battery directly to the control circuit,
> discovered the solenoid was working "click!", but the starter wouldn't turn.
> 
> 
> Fortunately, they are (in the words of our local auto electrics specialist)
> "highly rebuildable".
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs-archive@autox.team.net

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 14 01:26:09 2012
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From: "Pat Hand" <pat@pathand.net>
To: "'Chad'" <mgb72@airmail.net>, "'Aaron Whiteman'"
	<awhitema@panix.com>, "'Douglas McKinnie'" <d.mckinnie@usa.net>
References: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net>
	<59B4C2B2-3DE4-4391-91F1-59883B79BFE8@panix.com>
	<000f01cd79ad$97e93a80$c7bbaf80$@net>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 17:22:08 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac15p9X51ISZeUPFSiOQBKo29IUjZgABOX2AABAjqlA=
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi 

I have fitted a High Torque starter to my 1971 MGB, it works great, and uses
less power.

Regards

Pat Hand

74 MGB
49 MGY T

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Chad
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 9:45 AM
To: 'Aaron Whiteman'; 'Douglas McKinnie'
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting

The high torque starters are great.  There is a seller on Ebay under "MG MGB
MGC Modern Gear Reduction Starter Motor MGB-GT"  sells them for $190, much
cheaper than the regular sources.  One thing nice is they take much less
power to run them, nice feature if you are having issues in that department.

Chad

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Aaron Whiteman
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 6:03 PM
To: Douglas McKinnie
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 13, 2012, at 3:11 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net> wrote:

> Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" 
> position, there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing 
> more. It
always
> starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again.
>
> I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about.

Oh the timing!

Over the past few weeks, I had noticed that my starter was slowing.  One
day, it didn't do anything but 'click'.

In my case, it was the starter itself that was close to dead.  Without a
load, it would turn (slowly), but on the car, it did nothing but draw amps.

As Max wrote, make sure your connections are and grounds are good and clean.
If the problems go away, you're golden for a while.  Worst case, you need to
be concerned about a dying starter, but if yours is anything like mine,
it'll let you know bad things are coming as long as you are listening.

With an assistant, put the car on a jackstand, chock the rear wheels, put
the brake on, put the car in neutral and check the voltage
 * at the output of the starter relay.  Should be about 12V when the
assistant turns the key to start.
 * at the solenoid control circuit; since this is the other end of the
output of the relay, it should also be about 12V.
 * at the second large pole of the starter, which provides rich chunky amps
to turn the starter motor.

You are playing with high-amp unfused circuits, so be careful.

In my case, the starter relay was loud enough to mask the starter solenoid
circuit, so I shunted the battery directly to the control circuit,
discovered the solenoid was working "click!", but the starter wouldn't turn.


Fortunately, they are (in the words of our local auto electrics specialist)
"highly rebuildable".
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb72@airmail.net
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pat@pathand.net




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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 14 02:44:23 2012
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <412qHmwkX2528S02.1344895883@web02.cms.usa.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 09:16:11 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

A 'substantial' click is probably the solenoid operating, but either failing 
to power the motor or the motor is failing to turn the engine.  If the 
ignition warning light barely dims with the click, then it is probably for 
former.  If it dims greatly, then the latter,  possibly because of bad 
connections at the battery, battery earth to body, or engine/gearbox earth 
to body, although these often cause the solenoid to chatter as well.

'Hi torque' starters - there are two kinds advertised.  One claimed to be so 
but is a conventional ungeared starter, and geared starters.  Only the 
latter give the benefits of significantly lower cranking current and higher 
cranking speed, albeit at significant extra cost.  The other ones are just 
more expensive without having much more 'bang for the buck'.  Geared 
starters usually have the *solenoid* in line with the pinion and the motor 
to one side, with the motor slightly smaller than the solenoid, as opposed 
to the conventional very large motor (in comparison to the solenoid) motor 
in line with the pinion.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start" 
> position,
> there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing more. It 
> always
> starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again.
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAEUYfyN5Nwon3rscyY=v8XoYYWyZveP-duFGTBfCau829WvArw@mail.gmail.com><op.wiyqpze0sjevdj@pete200><52125FCEC98E4513B17955C0556DB87E@paul>
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Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 09:18:03 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG in the Olympics closing ceremony?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Subsequently spotted a yellow rubber bumper MGB roadster, interestingly an
American spec with the side markers.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----
  One forum reported an MGB and MGB-GT.


  On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 1:08 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
wrote:

    Both, although the TD could well have been a TA/B/C as I don't remember
seeing a front bumper.  There was an MGA, an MGF and a big Healey.  Wife
thought she spotted a BGT.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 15 12:29:02 2012
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From: Paul Root <ptroot@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 13:25:46 -0500
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Off topic:  Air compressors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it was
just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose.

But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted
through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air was
leaking out. :-)

So can I get just a new tank? There is nothing wrong with the motor and
compressor, except it's a bit loud since it's direct drive instead of belt
drive.

Obviously, the big box stores don't sell tanks, but someplace must?

Paul.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 15 14:08:18 2012
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From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
To: "Paul Root" <ptroot@gmail.com>
References: <B220A387-56FE-49B4-93D5-FA39EF005357@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 21:10:45 +0100
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Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Off topic:  Air compressors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Paul, to be totally honest you will probably buy a new compressor for less
than the price of a replacement tank. Offer the motor & pump on eBay.

Please see the following link to a general direct drive compressor on our
website which is priced at 164.19UKP.

http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=29536

The tank for this compressor on it's own is priced at 170.38UKP.

It may be different for you in the USA but here in the UK the price of spares
is silly.

Kindest regards
     Tom
      Tom McCay - Director,
      CCW-Tools, (a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd),
      32 Washingborough Road,
      Heighington,
      Lincoln,
      LN4 1RE.
      Tel: 01522 888178
      Fax: 0870 705 9115
      E-Mail: enquiries@ccw-tools.com,
      URL: www.ccw-tools.com Registered address:
      32 Washingborough Road,
      Heighington,
      Lincoln,
      LN4 1RE.
      Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales.

      Company number 3930761.
      VAT registration number: 755 7630 05

                VCard QR Scan
----- Original Message -----

  From: Paul Root
  To: mgs@autox.team.net List
  Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 7:25 PM
  Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Air compressors


  So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it was
  just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose.

  But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted
  through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air was
  leaking out. :-)

  So can I get just a new tank? There is nothing wrong with the motor and
  compressor, except it's a bit loud since it's direct drive instead of belt
  drive.

  Obviously, the big box stores don't sell tanks, but someplace must?

  Paul.
  _______________________________________________

  Mgs@autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of CCW-Tools%20VCard%20QR.jpg]
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 15 14:20:50 2012
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From: Paul Root <ptroot@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 15:23:21 -0500
References: <B220A387-56FE-49B4-93D5-FA39EF005357@gmail.com>
	<D0B5DD02ACD946A69F83D31F2160237E@TomVistaPC>
To: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd"
  <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Off topic:  Air compressors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, that looks  a lot like what I have.

I'm in the US, but thanks.


On Aug 15, 2012, at 3:10 PM, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote:

> Hi Paul, to be totally honest you will probably buy a new compressor for
less than the price of a replacement tank. Offer the motor & pump on eBay.
>
> Please see the following link to a general direct drive compressor on our
website which is priced at 164.19UKP.
>
> http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=29536
>
> The tank for this compressor on it's own is priced at 170.38UKP.
>
> It may be different for you in the USA but here in the UK the price of
spares is silly.
>
> Kindest regards
> 	Tom
> Tom McCay - Director,
> CCW-Tools, (a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd),
> 32 Washingborough Road,
> Heighington,
> Lincoln,
> LN4 1RE.
> Tel: 01522 888178
> Fax: 0870 705 9115
> E-Mail: enquiries@ccw-tools.com,
> URL: www.ccw-tools.com	Registered address:
> 32 Washingborough Road,
> Heighington,
> Lincoln,
> LN4 1RE.
> Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales.
>
> Company number 3930761.
> VAT registration number: 755 7630 05
>
>           VCard QR Scan
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Paul Root
> To: mgs@autox.team.net List
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 7:25 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Off topic: Air compressors
>
> So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it was
> just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose.
>
> But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted
> through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air was
> leaking out. :-)
>
> So can I get just a new tank? There is nothing wrong with the motor and
> compressor, except it's a bit loud since it's direct drive instead of belt
> drive.
>
> Obviously, the big box stores don't sell tanks, but someplace must?
>
> Paul.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 15 14:37:38 2012
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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 16:33:09 -0400
From: "Pete Chast" <pchast@francomm.com>
User-Agent: Opera Mail/11.64 (Win32)
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Off topic:  Air compressors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes they are available... Google is your friend for this.


On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 14:25:46 -0400, Paul Root <ptroot@gmail.com> wrote:

> So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it  
> was
> just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose.
>
> But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted
> through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air  
> was
> leaking out. :-)
>
> So can I get just a new tank? There is nothing wrong with the motor and
> compressor, except it's a bit loud since it's direct drive instead of  
> belt
> drive.
>
> Obviously, the big box stores don't sell tanks, but someplace must?
>
> Paul.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 14:39:06 -0600
From: Henri Lefebvre <71mgbgt@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Off topic: Air compressors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I imagine continuing to use a tank that already has a rust hole would
be a very dangerous risk of explosion!?

Henri

On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 12:25 PM, Paul Root <ptroot@gmail.com> wrote:
> So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it was
> just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose.
>
> But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted
> through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air was
> leaking out. :-)
>
> So can I get just a new tank? There is nothing wrong with the motor and
> compressor, except it's a bit loud since it's direct drive instead of belt
> drive.
>
> Obviously, the big box stores don't sell tanks, but someplace must?
>
> Paul.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/71mgbgt@gmail.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 15 17:38:47 2012
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To: Paul Root <ptroot@gmail.com>
References: <B220A387-56FE-49B4-93D5-FA39EF005357@gmail.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Off topic:  Air compressors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Buy another compressor, Paul and remember to open the bleed valve after 
you're done using the new one. ;-)

CR
On 8/15/2012 1:25 PM, Paul Root wrote:
> So my air compressor has been making a hissing noise, and I thought it was
> just the pipe connecting the tank to the compressor, as it was loose.
>
> But this past weekend, I took a look and it was fine. However, the rusted
> through hole at the bottom of the tank seemed to be the place that air was
> leaking out. :-)
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 16 12:44:53 2012
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From: DMatt21502@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2012 14:46:46 -0400 (EDT)
To: mgs@autox.team.net
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	s=20110426; t=1345142807;
	bh=7jBglp+0Fni+8hcp0W6lxcfcKy6MskHGC2ujakZ4K3Y=;
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Subject: [Mgs] Air Compressor
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If the hole is just pinhole size I would try sanding around it and using JB 
 Weld. Mine has held for 20 years!
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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2012 13:02:51 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: DMatt21502@aol.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Air Compressor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I would not do this.
You have no idea of the condition of the rest of the walls of the
compressor.  Patch one pin hole and you might then get a catastrophic
failure of the entire tank.
A pressure vessel with a rust hole is scrap IMHO.
Rick

On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 11:46 AM, <DMatt21502@aol.com> wrote:

> If the hole is just pinhole size I would try sanding around it and using JB
>  Weld. Mine has held for 20 years!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 02:24:10 2012
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From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 09:22:28 +0100
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Exmoor Classic Car Museum in Somerset for sale
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Hi all, interesting article on the BBC news today.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-somerset-19290757

Tom McCay

AH3000 MKIII BJ8
MGA1600 MKI
Classic Mini Park Lane
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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 10:01:39 -0400
From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <7b138.6c551f8.3d5e9a16@aol.com>
	<CACOF-TqFdqjgU6cibF4-chEFk9-Wm4LRee5GhPA5LxxTn2qdTg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Air Compressor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I experienced this failure twice now, on a 35 year old 1hp unit and a 
much newer 5hp.  They were not catastrophic, just noisy and wet 
(indicating why they failed).  I found an identical tank for the 5hp, 
hopefully with less/no rust, at a flea market for $10.  I plan to weld 
in a replacement patch on the 1hp to try to save it, cutting back to 
where the tank is still solid.  The little one has sentimental value, 
I've had it so long.

On 8/16/2012 4:02 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> I would not do this.
> You have no idea of the condition of the rest of the walls of the
> compressor.  Patch one pin hole and you might then get a catastrophic
> failure of the entire tank.
> A pressure vessel with a rust hole is scrap IMHO.
> Rick
>
> On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 11:46 AM,<DMatt21502@aol.com>  wrote:
>
>> If the hole is just pinhole size I would try sanding around it and using JB
>>   Weld. Mine has held for 20 years!
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From: Paul Root <ptroot@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 12:21:58 -0500
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] mufflers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I know this is probably pointless to ask, but it's time for a new muffler for
my car. Hit a bump this morning, and the front now has a hole, and the rear is
really close.


Anyway, I'm not concerned with getting 1, 2, or 5 more HP from my exhaust
change. I'm interested in volume.   I don't want it loud.

Can anyone rate the relative loudness of the stock (well 68-74 from Moss) vs
Tourist Trophy vs big bore stainless vs Peco?

I have a '77 with HIF conversion and stock pre-cat manifold.   I'm not
planning on changing the manifold at this time, but that's not a show
stopper.


thanks,
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 11:59:01 2012
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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 13:57:14 -0400
From: saidel <saidel@camden.rutgers.edu>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <5CC11327-718A-4D33-9B1B-10FB451AE584@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/0.7.2
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mufflers
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Paul.  I replaced the muffler of my '76 with HIF's with the stock 
Moss muffler this spring and I must admit, I am surprised by how loud it 
is.
In fact, I hope there is a fix to reduce the noise, something to try 
this Fall.

Bill Saidel
'76 MGB
BMCSNJ

On 2012-08-17 13:21, Paul Root wrote:
> I know this is probably pointless to ask, but it's time for a new 
> muffler for
> my car. Hit a bump this morning, and the front now has a hole, and
> the rear is
> really close.
>
>
> Anyway, I'm not concerned with getting 1, 2, or 5 more HP from my 
> exhaust
> change. I'm interested in volume.   I don't want it loud.
>
> Can anyone rate the relative loudness of the stock (well 68-74 from 
> Moss) vs
> Tourist Trophy vs big bore stainless vs Peco?
>
> I have a '77 with HIF conversion and stock pre-cat manifold.   I'm 
> not
> planning on changing the manifold at this time, but that's not a show
> stopper.
>
>
> thanks,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/saidel@camden.rutgers.edu
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 14:07:53 2012
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From: Murray Arundell <arundell@ghs.com.au>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 06:09:54 +1000
References: <7b138.6c551f8.3d5e9a16@aol.com>
	<CACOF-TqFdqjgU6cibF4-chEFk9-Wm4LRee5GhPA5LxxTn2qdTg@mail.gmail.com>
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To: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Air Compressor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Why are  you guys so bloody mean with your $s?  Obviously you've never seen
the results of a catastrophic failure of a pressure vessel....  For Pete's
sake how much does a basic compressor cost in the US?  Two parts of bugger
all...... Get rid of the old clunker and probably save you life in the
process.

Murray Arundell

On 18/08/2012, at 12:01 AM, Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net> wrote:

> I experienced this failure twice now, on a 35 year old 1hp unit and a much
newer 5hp.  They were not catastrophic, just noisy and wet (indicating why
they failed).  I found an identical tank for the 5hp, hopefully with less/no
rust, at a flea market for $10.  I plan to weld in a replacement patch on the
1hp to try to save it, cutting back to where the tank is still solid.  The
little one has sentimental value, I've had it so long.
>
> On 8/16/2012 4:02 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
>> I would not do this.
>> You have no idea of the condition of the rest of the walls of the
>> compressor.  Patch one pin hole and you might then get a catastrophic
>> failure of the entire tank.
>> A pressure vessel with a rust hole is scrap IMHO.
>> Rick
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 11:46 AM,<DMatt21502@aol.com>  wrote:
>>
>>> If the hole is just pinhole size I would try sanding around it and using
JB
>>> Weld. Mine has held for 20 years!
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/james.f.juhas@snet.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 14:18:45 2012
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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 13:20:08 -0700
To: mgs@autox.team.net
From: Don <don@napanet.net>
References: <5CC11327-718A-4D33-9B1B-10FB451AE584@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] mufflers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On this subject . . .

My '67 B has a straight pipe where the muffler should be.  I want to 
get a stock muffler for it, but Moss doesn't have them.  A friend 
says the Moss mufflers for later Bs can be adapted to a Mk 1 
car.  Anyone done this?

Does anyone have any experience buying or using a stock type muffler 
on an early B?

Thanks!

Don Scott

Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF
1962 MGA Mk 2
1967 MGB
1963-7 MGB (seeking)
Misc. Japanese cars  
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 14:34:45 2012
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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 13:31:25 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] mufflers
Thread-Index: Ac18t0V44JRx04V+0UyJ5KiDplnvoQ==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mufflers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm surprised. I didn't have any trouble locating a muffler last time I
looked.

454-540 Muffler, front
454-550 Muffler, rear

My catalog is a couple years old, however...


on 8/17/12 1:20 PM, Don at don@napanet.net wrote:

> On this subject . . .
> 
> My '67 B has a straight pipe where the muffler should be.  I want to
> get a stock muffler for it, but Moss doesn't have them.  A friend
> says the Moss mufflers for later Bs can be adapted to a Mk 1
> car.  Anyone done this?
> 
> Does anyone have any experience buying or using a stock type muffler
> on an early B?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Don Scott
> 
> Calistoga CA USA
> 1955 MGTF
> 1962 MGA Mk 2
> 1967 MGB
> 1963-7 MGB (seeking)
> Misc. Japanese cars

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 15:06:25 2012
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From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill@msubillings.edu>
To: Don <don@napanet.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] mufflers
Thread-Index: AQHNfJzlru3GmK3I4U+2cUf5qPykPpde1r8A//+dInA=
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 21:08:59 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] mufflers
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am a bit puzzled by this. I put a stock exhaust on my 64B, purchased from
Moss or a reseller maybe two years ago. A check at Moss Motors shows parts and
prices, indicating they should still be available (unless temporarily out of
stock?).

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29007

As far as my experience, for the original post, my MGs are all running stock
exhaust systems (64b, 67BGT, 72B). For a long time, probably 1980 to maybe
1999, I used the ANCO or ANSI (I think that was the name) exhaust which had a
more tubular muffler. I liked the rounded muffler because it was less likely
to catch on road bumps and as I recall, it seemed a bit quieter than the
stock. I don't see it on Moss website now so I am not positive I have the name
right.

It is hard to say which exhaust is truly louder though without comparing two
cars side by side or measuring with a decibel meter though. I just know the
original exhaust works fine and is inexpensive.

David Councill



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Don
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 2:20 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] mufflers

On this subject . . .

My '67 B has a straight pipe where the muffler should be.  I want to get a
stock muffler for it, but Moss doesn't have them.  A friend says the Moss
mufflers for later Bs can be adapted to a Mk 1 car.  Anyone done this?

Does anyone have any experience buying or using a stock type muffler on an
early B?

Thanks!

Don Scott
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 15:21:43 2012
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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 17:16:47 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] mufflers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul, I've got a 1980 MGB with the HIF conversion.  I replaced the stock
muffler with a Peco header and exhaust.  I was told when I put it in that if
it was too loud, I could add a glasspack muffler in the middle to quiet it
down, but I haven't seen the need to do so.  I wouldn't call it quiet, but
it's not terribly loud either.

-Steve (1980 MGB)

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Paul Root
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 1:22 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] mufflers

...Can anyone rate the relative loudness of the stock (well 68-74 from Moss)
vs Tourist Trophy vs big bore stainless vs Peco?
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	Fri, 17 Aug 2012 17:17:52 PDT
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 17:17:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: MGB- Yahoo <mg-mgb@yahoogroups.com>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Good News on the B Front
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, finally taking some steps to get back behind the wheel of a B... Specifically, my '76.... Had it trucked down to the
Motorcar Garage (Pete Cosmides' shop) last Friday to get the carb straightened out. That's all done, and I am having a few
other items attended to as well. So I should be driving it before the end of this month... Can't wait, it's been a few years...

While half of the garage is empty (looks strange!) I am cleaning up and rearranging and will be moving my mostly-disassembled
'65 B project to the 'working' half of the garage. That will allow me to get back to working on it and finish the stripping-down process.
Looking forward to spending some quality time with both the cars again.

Dan D
'76 B DRIVER
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 18 01:31:10 2012
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Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 00:33:20 -0700
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Don <don@napanet.net>
References: <mailman.6558.1345234661.2453.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<CC53F82D.3DED5%mvheim@sonic.net>
Subject: [Mgs] mufflers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Re:  "puzzled"  and "surprised"

Hey guys, I may be slow, but I'm not stupid.  I have been looking at 
each Moss MGB catalogue since I bought my car a year ago, and the 
rear muffler 454-550 for pre-1968 MGB was illustrated but was shown as "NA."

However, the catalogue I just got in the mail does show that it is 
available again.



t 01:31 PM 8/17/2012, Max Heim wrote:
>I'm surprised. I didn't have any trouble locating a muffler last time I
>looked.
>
>454-540 Muffler, front
>454-550 Muffler, rear
>
>My catalog is a couple years old, however...
>
>
>on 8/17/12 1:20 PM, Don at don@napanet.net wrote:
>
> > On this subject . . .
> >
> > My '67 B has a straight pipe where the muffler should be.  I want to
> > get a stock muffler for it, but Moss doesn't have them.  A friend
> > says the Moss mufflers for later Bs can be adapted to a Mk 1
> > car.  Anyone done this?
> >
> > Does anyone have any experience buying or using a stock type muffler
> > on an early B?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Don Scott
> >
> > Calistoga CA USA
> > 1955 MGTF
> > 1962 MGA Mk 2
> > 1967 MGB
> > 1963-7 MGB (seeking)
> > Misc. Japanese cars
>
>--
>
>Max Heim
>'66 MGB GHN3L76149
>If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 18 16:07:27 2012
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From: "Councill, David" <dcouncill@msubillings.edu>
To: Don <don@napanet.net>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] mufflers
Thread-Index: AQHNfJzlru3GmK3I4U+2cUf5qPykPpde1r8AgAADJ4CAALjwAIAAeU5g
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 21:12:09 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] mufflers
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Perhaps then, I should add a bit more to this topic. I was "puzzled" because I
had recently purchased all the exhaust pieces for my 64B restoration (recently
as in two years ago) through Moss. However, it seems like I have been seeing a
lot more "NA" parts the past 5-10 years. Some parts are "NA" because they can
be substituted with newer year B parts or even with generic (multi-car) parts.
But I have also found that parts listed "NA" by Moss can sometimes be found
through other parts distributers.

Most recently I purchased door caps for my 64B from the Roadster Factory - no
other vendor I know of sells these. I have also ordered from the UK on a few
occasions for parts unavailable here in the US.

Leacy Classics (www.leacy classics) provided me with some hard to find parts
and quick free international shipping. Brown & Gammons
(http://www.ukmgparts.com/) was my source for parts for a factory hard top on
my 72B that no other distributers had.

Also, I should mention Moss resellers can also be helpful in finding alternate
sources for NA parts. During the earlier restoration of my 72B, both Jeff Zorn
(lbcarco.com) and Ed Kaler (justbrits.com) were able to locate some items for
me.

Just a little helpful information for the list. I am sure many of you are like
me and are always looking for sources for parts. And that's just new parts. I
have found used parts to be even more difficult in recent years in terms of
salvage yards.

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Don
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 1:33 AM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] mufflers

Re:  "puzzled"  and "surprised"

Hey guys, I may be slow, but I'm not stupid.  I have been looking at each Moss
MGB catalogue since I bought my car a year ago, and the rear muffler 454-550
for pre-1968 MGB was illustrated but was shown as "NA."

However, the catalogue I just got in the mail does show that it is available
again.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 18 16:09:18 2012
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Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 14:25:33 -0700
To: "mgs-autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Don <don@napanet.net>
	ings.edu>
References: <mailman.6558.1345234661.2453.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<CC53F82D.3DED5%mvheim@sonic.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] mufflers
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Sorry to come off so strong.  I have had MGs for 45 years and I have 
bought parts from many places.  Used to get a lot of them directly 
from the UK, new and used, as I had a Magnette, Bs, MGA, and 
others.  Was great when the dollar and pound were at parity.

Getting a proper exhaust system on my current MGB is not a high 
priority, and just happened on the postings so interjected my 
query.  I had not bothered to even look for a source other than Moss 
for a muffler.

A used exhaust system in good shape would be fine, as what is on it 
works, but it's way too loud for my tastes.  It looks to have a 
single glasspack single muffler only.

Don



At 02:12 PM 8/18/2012, Councill, David wrote:
>Perhaps then, I should add a bit more to this topic. I was "puzzled" 
>because I had recently purchased all the exhaust pieces for my 64B 
>restoration (recently as in two years ago) through Moss. However, it 
>seems like I have been seeing a lot more "NA" parts the past 5-10 
>years. Some parts are "NA" because they can be substituted with 
>newer year B parts or even with generic (multi-car) parts. But I 
>have also found that parts listed "NA" by Moss can sometimes be 
>found through other parts distributers.
>
>Most recently I purchased door caps for my 64B from the Roadster 
>Factory - no other vendor I know of sells these. I have also ordered 
>from the UK on a few occasions for parts unavailable here in the US.
>
>Leacy Classics (www.leacy classics) provided me with some hard to 
>find parts and quick free international shipping. Brown & Gammons 
>(http://www.ukmgparts.com/) was my source for parts for a factory 
>hard top on my 72B that no other distributers had.
>
>Also, I should mention Moss resellers can also be helpful in finding 
>alternate sources for NA parts. During the earlier restoration of my 
>72B, both Jeff Zorn (lbcarco.com) and Ed Kaler (justbrits.com) were 
>able to locate some items for me.
>
>Just a little helpful information for the list. I am sure many of 
>you are like me and are always looking for sources for parts. And 
>that's just new parts. I have found used parts to be even more 
>difficult in recent years in terms of salvage yards.
>
>David Councill
>64 B
>67 BGT
>72 B
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] 
>On Behalf Of Don
>Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 1:33 AM
>To: MG List
>Subject: [Mgs] mufflers
>
>Re:  "puzzled"  and "surprised"
>
>Hey guys, I may be slow, but I'm not stupid.  I have been looking at 
>each Moss MGB catalogue since I bought my car a year ago, and the 
>rear muffler 454-550 for pre-1968 MGB was illustrated but was shown as "NA."
>
>However, the catalogue I just got in the mail does show that it is 
>available again.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>-----
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5207 - Release Date: 08/18/12
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 18 20:22:53 2012
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>, "Triumph 6 Pack"
	<6pack@autox.team.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPK7CFCJowHGnxug42=nqzz46W3S97gbQd==GzWM6L_zSFteVg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 20:44:55 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] open trailer available
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm running an empty trailer suitable for an lbc from dallas to tuscaloosa 
next friday.

if you need a car moved I can make you a great deal

dave northrup
dallas, tx 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 19 23:03:33 2012
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To: "=?utf-8?B?TUcgTGlzdA==?=" <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: =?utf-8?B?c2NodWx0ZWppbUBtc24uY29t?= <schultejim@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 01:02:54 -0400
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Folks,
Fyi. Steve Hardings wife passed away on Saturday due to an undisclosed illness. Debbie has been Steve's sidekick since before they started the Philly MG Club back in the early 80's. Our deapest sympathy is extended to Steve and his family. Debbie was a kind and friendly person. She was loved by all who knew her. 
Jim Schulte
Former Secretary PMGC
Sent via the HTC Vividb", an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
_______________________________________________

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To: "schultejim@msn.com" <schultejim@msn.com>, MG List
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Death in MG family
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry to hear that.

Dan D
Central NJ USA




________________________________
From: "schultejim@msn.com" <schultejim@msn.com>
To: MG List
<mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 1:02 AM
Subject: [Mgs]
Death in MG family
 
Folks,
Fyi. Steve Hardings wife passed away on Saturday
due to an undisclosed illness. Debbie has been Steve's sidekick since before
they started the Philly MG Club back in the early 80's. Our deapest sympathy
is extended to Steve and his family. Debbie was a kind and friendly person.
She was loved by all who knew her. 
Jim Schulte
Former Secretary PMGC
Sent via
the HTC Vividb", an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 05:13:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: MGB- Yahoo <mg-mgb@yahoogroups.com>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Back on 4 wheels....
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Getting my '65 B ready to move to the other side of the garage..... Emptied it out of all of the stored crap and got the G78-14 bias play
tires inflated....

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6434.jpg


http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6435.jpg


http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6436.jpg

The jacking points are much more solid than on my '76!

Now to get a couple of neighborhood youths to help me roll it out and back into the other side....

Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA
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From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
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To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
References: <1345464781.22307.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>, MGB- Yahoo <mg-mgb@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Back on 4 wheels....
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What?  You don't have any wheel dollies?

CR
On 8/20/2012 7:13 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> Getting my '65 B ready to move to the other side of the garage..... Emptied it out of all of the stored crap and got the G78-14 bias play
> tires inflated....
>
> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6434.jpg
>
>
> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6435.jpg
>
>
> http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6436.jpg
>
> The jacking points are much more solid than on my '76!
>
> Now to get a couple of neighborhood youths to help me roll it out and back into the other side....
>
> Dan D
> '76 B Driver
> '65 B Project
> Central NJ USA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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References: <1345464781.22307.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<5033BFAB.6090208@ktc.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 14:09:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: "MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com" <MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>, MG List
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Re:  Back on 4 wheels....
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Nope. Nor do I have an air compressor to inflate the tires.

Dan D
'76 B
Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From:
Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
To: Dan DiBiase
<d_dibiase@yahoo.com> 
Cc: MGB- Yahoo <mg-mgb@yahoogroups.com>; MG List
<mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 1:04 PM
Subject: [MG-MGB]
Re: [Mgs] Back on 4 wheels....
 
What?  You don't have any wheel dollies?

CR
On 8/20/2012 7:13 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> Getting my '65 B ready to move to
the other side of the garage..... Emptied it out of all of the stored crap and
got the G78-14 bias play
> tires inflated....
>
>
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6434.jpg
>
>
>
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6435.jpg
>
>
>
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/1965%20MGB/IMG_6436.jpg
>
> The
jacking points are much more solid than on my '76!
>
> Now to get a couple of
neighborhood youths to help me roll it out and back into the other side....
>
> Dan D
> '76 B Driver
> '65 B Project
> Central NJ USA
>
_______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
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>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 22 16:40:20 2012
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From: "Chad" <mgb72@airmail.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 17:42:35 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac2AjTloI1RG8dJRTZK20AipL/pzowAAPVEQAAAk3FAABQ3eYAAAIw5gAATmkPA=
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	engine=2.50.10432:5.7.7855,1.0.260,0.0.0000
	definitions=2012-08-22_04:2012-08-22,2012-08-22,1970-01-01
	signatures=0
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Subject: [Mgs] 101 year old driver & her 81 year old car..
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Great story especially the part about someone's relative having one and it
not being the same car at all.  I get that in the MG all the time.

 

Enjoy,

Chad Cooper

'72 B roadster

 


 

 

     101 Year-Old Woman Drives An 81 Year-Old Car: There is hope for us
all.This video clip is priceless. Notice at the very end when she steps on a
little red towel to get into the car so she won't dirty the running board,
then picks it up and puts it in the car so she can use it when she gets
out!An amazing lady, 101 years old driv ing an 81-year-old car and changes
the oil and spark plugs herself! This is a hoot!   Click Here: Two Classics,
One Car.mp4 - You Tube <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHwwwJ83oWo>    
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 22 22:51:52 2012
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Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 06:54:23 +0200
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From: Bert Palte <palte@gmx.net>
Subject: [Mgs] MGA picture, found on a bag of polishing cotton
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 22 22:54:25 2012
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Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 06:56:57 +0200
From: "Bert Palte" <palte@gmx.net>
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	94D+QRdzHYPDV3qpavoJGOgertqAHz3E6cqw== 
Subject: [Mgs] MGA picture, found on a bag of polishing cotton
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(Second attempt)


Hi fellow listers,


Yet another picture of an MGA, this time found on a bag of polishing cotton:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dtchbrt/7842686284/in/photostream 

Photographed at a Biltema store, at VC$sterC%s in Sweden.
(In case this goes wrong ASCII-wise, that is Vasteras with two dots on the first A and a little circle on the second A)  

www.biltema.se

No financial interest, yada, yad, yada...



Greetings
Bert
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 23 14:38:51 2012
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Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 15:36:55 -0500
From: dwoerpel <dwoerpel@wi.net>
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To: MGs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Coil mount
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi all,

Anyone wish to get rid of a coil mounting bracket for a 1600 MGA? This 
is the piece that attaches to the engine mount.  The coil and its strap 
bolt to it.

Thanks,

Dave W.
Burlington WI
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 23 20:07:49 2012
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References: <50369467.8020609@wi.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 19:09:48 -0700
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: dwoerpel <dwoerpel@wi.net>
Cc: MGs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coil mount
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On my '57 MGA, the coil is mounted on the generator, not the engine mount.

Simon

On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 1:36 PM, dwoerpel <dwoerpel@wi.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Anyone wish to get rid of a coil mounting bracket for a 1600 MGA? This is
> the piece that attaches to the engine mount.  The coil and its strap bolt
> to it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave W.
> Burlington WI
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> **gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 23 20:20:37 2012
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Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 21:19:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: dwoerpel@wi.net
To: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.13
Cc: MGs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coil mount
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yup, it was on all up to the 1600 and 1600 MkII.  I'm  contemplating using
an alternator and want to use an original mounting position rather than
drill more holes in the inner wing.

Dave



> On my '57 MGA, the coil is mounted on the generator, not the engine mount.
>
> Simon
>
> On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 1:36 PM, dwoerpel <dwoerpel@wi.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Anyone wish to get rid of a coil mounting bracket for a 1600 MGA? This
>> is
>> the piece that attaches to the engine mount.  The coil and its strap
>> bolt
>> to it.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dave W.
>> Burlington WI
>> ______________________________**_________________
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Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 10:25:44 -0500
From: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Instructions Needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Some years ago I bought a kit from VB that would allow me to remotely open
and close the door locks on my MGB. I can't find the instructions.

Anyone out there have the instructions?

Jack
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 24 19:42:40 2012
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From: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 18:40:26 -0700
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

After far too many years, I've finally gotten through enough of the other todo
lists to start work on putting my MGBGT back on the road.  I'm trying to go
through the boxes and piles of parts and figure out what I need, what is lost
and so forth.  It seems that one of the missing items is the pilot bushing for
the Ford 5-speed conversion.   Does anyone off hand know of a good source of a
replacement?  or the dimensions in case I need to fab one?

On the off chance that anyone is within driving distance of the Santa Cruz
mountains and would find it entertaining to go through a ridiculous amount of
spares for MGBs (and Miatas), and possibly pick up some good deals on parts I
don't need for the project, I could use some help in the process of picking
and sorting, especially since a few months back I got a call from a friend who
desperately needed to clear out of his storage locker the next day and had a
small truckload of MGB parts that he needed to find a home for lest he have to
throw them out.


--
Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 24 20:45:35 2012
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From: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 19:42:20 -0700
References: <0C24E1D9-4584-4422-9927-9E1290AE179C@red4est.com>
To: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Is this the Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

An hour after I gave up looking for it, and posted that I was looking for one,
I may have found it.  It seems to fit in all the critical dimensions:

http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631231104590/

How much space should there be between the shaft and the pilot bushing?
On Aug 24, 2012, at 6:40 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

> After far too many years, I've finally gotten through enough of the other
todo
> lists to start work on putting my MGBGT back on the road.  I'm trying to go
> through the boxes and piles of parts and figure out what I need, what is
lost
> and so forth.  It seems that one of the missing items is the pilot bushing
for
> the Ford 5-speed conversion.   Does anyone off hand know of a good source of
a
> replacement?  or the dimensions in case I need to fab one?
>
> On the off chance that anyone is within driving distance of the Santa Cruz
> mountains and would find it entertaining to go through a ridiculous amount
of
> spares for MGBs (and Miatas), and possibly pick up some good deals on parts
I
> don't need for the project, I could use some help in the process of picking
> and sorting, especially since a few months back I got a call from a friend
who
> desperately needed to clear out of his storage locker the next day and had
a
> small truckload of MGB parts that he needed to find a home for lest he have
to
> throw them out.
>

--
Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 24 22:50:11 2012
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To: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
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	<F7D9D352-6028-43A4-97DA-67FA04737B3C@red4est.com>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Is this the Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an  MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

0.002 inch diametrical clearance.


At 07:42 PM 8/24/2012 -0700, Larry Colen wrote:
>An hour after I gave up looking for it, and posted that I was looking for one,
>I may have found it.  It seems to fit in all the critical dimensions:
>
>http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631231104590/
>
>How much space should there be between the shaft and the pilot bushing?
>....
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 25 11:05:18 2012
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From: "gordies garage" <mg_garage@comcast.net>
To: "Larry Colen" <lrc@red4est.com>
References: <0C24E1D9-4584-4422-9927-9E1290AE179C@red4est.com>
	<F7D9D352-6028-43A4-97DA-67FA04737B3C@red4est.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 12:56:50 -0400
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Is this the Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an  MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

That pic does look like the bushing adapter for the Sierra 5 sp.
I've installed a couple of them.

gordie
'62 MGA

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Larry Colen" <lrc@red4est.com>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 10:42 PM
To: "Larry Colen" <lrc@red4est.com>
Cc: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Is this the Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB?

> An hour after I gave up looking for it, and posted that I was looking for 
> one,
> I may have found it.  It seems to fit in all the critical dimensions:
>
> http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631231104590/
>
> How much space should there be between the shaft and the pilot bushing?
> On Aug 24, 2012, at 6:40 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
>
>> After far too many years, I've finally gotten through enough of the other
> todo
>> lists to start work on putting my MGBGT back on the road.  I'm trying to 
>> go
>> through the boxes and piles of parts and figure out what I need, what is
> lost
>> and so forth.  It seems that one of the missing items is the pilot 
>> bushing
> for
>> the Ford 5-speed conversion.   Does anyone off hand know of a good source 
>> of
> a
>> replacement?  or the dimensions in case I need to fab one?
>>
>> On the off chance that anyone is within driving distance of the Santa 
>> Cruz
>> mountains and would find it entertaining to go through a ridiculous 
>> amount
> of
>> spares for MGBs (and Miatas), and possibly pick up some good deals on 
>> parts
> I
>> don't need for the project, I could use some help in the process of 
>> picking
>> and sorting, especially since a few months back I got a call from a 
>> friend
> who
>> desperately needed to clear out of his storage locker the next day and 
>> had
> a
>> small truckload of MGB parts that he needed to find a home for lest he 
>> have
> to
>> throw them out.
>>
>
> --
> Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 25 11:20:16 2012
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From: "David Ress" <60mgaman@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Larry Colen'" <lrc@red4est.com>, "'MG List'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <0C24E1D9-4584-4422-9927-9E1290AE179C@red4est.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 13:21:51 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac2CY0vgK6tVycM1SzaAfV6Awny8lwAgqB6A
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thinking about a 5 speed conversion as well, can you point me in the right
direction and or provide guidance?

70 MGBGT w/original motor.

Thanks in advance

David

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Larry Colen
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 9:40 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] Pilot bushing for a ford tranny on an MGB?

After far too many years, I've finally gotten through enough of the other
todo
lists to start work on putting my MGBGT back on the road.  I'm trying to go
through the boxes and piles of parts and figure out what I need, what is
lost
and so forth.  It seems that one of the missing items is the pilot bushing
for
the Ford 5-speed conversion.   Does anyone off hand know of a good source of
a
replacement?  or the dimensions in case I need to fab one?

On the off chance that anyone is within driving distance of the Santa Cruz
mountains and would find it entertaining to go through a ridiculous amount
of
spares for MGBs (and Miatas), and possibly pick up some good deals on parts
I
don't need for the project, I could use some help in the process of picking
and sorting, especially since a few months back I got a call from a friend
who
desperately needed to clear out of his storage locker the next day and had a
small truckload of MGB parts that he needed to find a home for lest he have
to
throw them out.


--
Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 25 17:50:14 2012
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From: <riverside@southslope.net>
To: <dwoerpel@wi.net>, "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
References: <50369467.8020609@wi.net><CAEUYfyNexYwpC98oMgjM-3=fDNvP5W4VN5beJmnAQt8CMHjpWw@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 18:43:46 -0500
Cc: MGs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coil mount
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The engine mount coil bracket works very well with an alternator if
you trim the vertical lip and place it under the frame mount to avoid
interfering with alternator adjustment.

Sorry but I do not have a spare on hand.

Ron
-----Original Message----- 
From: dwoerpel@wi.net
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 9:19 PM
To: Simon Matthews
Cc: MGs
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coil mount

Yup, it was on all up to the 1600 and 1600 MkII.  I'm  contemplating using
an alternator and want to use an original mounting position rather than
drill more holes in the inner wing.

Dave



> On my '57 MGA, the coil is mounted on the generator, not the engine mount.
>
> Simon
>
> On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 1:36 PM, dwoerpel <dwoerpel@wi.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Anyone wish to get rid of a coil mounting bracket for a 1600 MGA? This
>> is
>> the piece that attaches to the engine mount.  The coil and its strap
>> bolt
>> to it.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dave W.
>> Burlington WI
>> ______________________________**_________________
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 26 06:54:27 2012
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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 05:56:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rick Lindsay <rolindsay@yahoo.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] wx changing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Long time, no type.  No longer owning an MG keeps me pretty quiet these days.
Still, after the first of the year I may be helping a friend rebuild/restore
his Midget. That should be fun.  Just putting the metric tools away will be a
treat.  :-P

If you will allow an off-marque comment or two I'll tell you my near-field
plans.

We've had a couple of days where the mercury has avoided the 90s and that has
me thinking about the TR3.  As any of you living in the deep south know, our
open sports cars are often more enjoyable on dry winter days than on
unbearably hot, sun drenched summer days.  That is certainly the case here in
Houston, Texas.  And I have lived here long enough now that a couple of cooler
days has me thinking about open motoring.  Problem is that my TR3 has a dead
fuel pump.  Well, that and the fact that it is a Triumph.  :-P

The weather has discouraged me from changing the pump but now I find myself
pondering the job.  Parts are already in hand but today is already booked.
 Next weekend (almost) for sure!

What are your plans / projects?  I miss you guys...

-rick, in sunny Houston
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 26 10:01:17 2012
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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 12:02:38 -0400
To: Rick Lindsay <rolindsay@yahoo.com>,mgs@autox.team.net
From: Barrie Robinson <barrie@look.ca>
	.yahoo.com>
References: <1345985809.74451.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] wx changing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey hey - don't knock Triumphs.  I raced a TR2 back in the days when 
they were all the rage.  I used to embarrass those trucks called 
"XK120" which I could not have done in the car I traded in for the TR 
- an MG TD !!   Even though I have an MGB GT V8 I long for the TR2 or 
TR3 (which I had later).  I mean how many cars can you pick up road 
kill without stopping and just hanging your arm down to the ground ???


At 05:56 AM 8/26/2012 -0700, Rick Lindsay wrote:
>Hi Friends,
>
>Long time, no type.  No longer owning an MG keeps me pretty quiet these days.
>Still, after the first of the year I may be helping a friend rebuild/restore
>his Midget. That should be fun.  Just putting the metric tools away will be a
>treat.  :-P
>
>If you will allow an off-marque comment or two I'll tell you my near-field
>plans.
>
>We've had a couple of days where the mercury has avoided the 90s and that has
>me thinking about the TR3.  As any of you living in the deep south know, our
>open sports cars are often more enjoyable on dry winter days than on
>unbearably hot, sun drenched summer days.  That is certainly the case here in
>Houston, Texas.  And I have lived here long enough now that a couple of cooler
>days has me thinking about open motoring.  Problem is that my TR3 has a dead
>fuel pump.  Well, that and the fact that it is a Triumph.  :-P
>
>The weather has discouraged me from changing the pump but now I find myself
>pondering the job.  Parts are already in hand but today is already booked.
>  Next weekend (almost) for sure!
>
>What are your plans / projects?  I miss you guys...
>
>-rick, in sunny Houston
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie@look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie@look.ca
705-721-9060 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 26 10:33:12 2012
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	<E1T5fIO-0000eN-FN@zeta.look.ca>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:35:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: dwoerpel@wi.net
To: "Barrie Robinson" <barrie@look.ca>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.13
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net, Rick Lindsay <rolindsay@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] wx changing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Glad to hear from you again Rick!  Just putting in new carpet in the
MGA and having a devil of a time trying to get the cut just right around
the diagonal frame brace and the sill.

Barrie, I'm ROTFLing as
my college buddy had and still has a Morgan +4.  We hit a pheasant,
did a "U" turn, and i grabbed it from the passenger seat w/o
opening the door, did another "Bat-turn" and proceeded to his
place where the bird, not severely disfigured, was duly dressed and had
for dinner!  Can't do that in my Bugeye.

Thanks for the
memories.
Dave W.



> Hey hey - don't knock
Triumphs.  I raced a TR2 back in the days when
> they were all the
rage.  I used to embarrass those trucks called
> "XK120"
which I could not have done in the car I traded in for the TR
> -
an MG TD !!   Even though I have an MGB GT V8 I long for the TR2 or
> TR3 (which I had later).  I mean how many cars can you pick up
road
> kill without stopping and just hanging your arm down to the
ground ???
> 
> 
> At 05:56 AM 8/26/2012 -0700,
Rick Lindsay wrote:
>>Hi Friends,
>>
>>Long time, no type.  No longer owning an MG keeps me pretty
quiet these
>> days.
>>Still, after the first of the
year I may be helping a friend
>> rebuild/restore
>>his Midget. That should be fun.  Just putting the metric tools
away will
>> be a
>>treat.  :-P
>>
>>If you will allow an off-marque comment or two I'll tell you
my
>> near-field
>>plans.
>>
>>We've had a couple of days where the mercury has avoided the 90s
and that
>> has
>>me thinking about the TR3.  As any
of you living in the deep south know,
>> our
>>open
sports cars are often more enjoyable on dry winter days than on
>>unbearably hot, sun drenched summer days.  That is certainly the
case
>> here in
>>Houston, Texas.  And I have lived
here long enough now that a couple of
>> cooler
>>days has me thinking about open motoring.  Problem is that my
TR3 has a
>> dead
>>fuel pump.  Well, that and the
fact that it is a Triumph.  :-P
>>
>>The weather has
discouraged me from changing the pump but now I find
>>
myself
>>pondering the job.  Parts are already in hand but
today is already
>> booked.
>>  Next weekend
(almost) for sure!
>>
>>What are your plans /
projects?  I miss you guys...
>>
>>-rick, in sunny
Houston
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>Mgs@autox.team.net
>>Donate:
>>Suggested annual donation 
$12.75
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie@look.ca
> 
> Regards
> 
> Barrie
> barrie@look.ca
> 705-721-9060
>
_______________________________________________
> 
>
Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 15:29:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: MGB- Yahoo <mg-mgb@yahoogroups.com>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Back in the Saddle Again....
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, I picked up the '76 B from the shop yesterday and had an uneventful (besides the rain) 50-mile drive home... Car runs great,
pulls strongly and brakes well, all good things! It felt great to do some errands in it today....

http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/MG/?action=view&current=IMG_6445.mp4

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/MG/IMG_6452.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/ddibiase/MG/Garage.jpg

As you can see, I also got the '65 switched over to the 'working' side of the garage this afternoon, so I can get back to work on it
for a few months until the cold weather chases me out of the garage. All in all, a very good week-end!

Dan D
'76 B Driver - yes, really!
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA
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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 23:40:35 +0000 (UTC)
From: dontoy@comcast.net
To: mgs@autox.team.net
	(Win)/6.0.13_GA_2944)
Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems
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Dear Sages of the List, (Lawrie Alexander)



Ever since I followed detailed instructions about going from a positive ground
to a negative ground in my TF the ammeter has been showing a discharge. Yes, I
did reverse the wires on the back of the ammeter. All was good prior to the
switch. It seems to be holding it's own while just the engine is running. As
soon as I turn on the headlights I show a fair discharge. I would love to use
a multimeter to check the generator output prior to taking it out. I do have a
multimeter but so many placesB (6) to plug in the probesB on the multimeter.
and so many settings on the dial. I get somewhat cornfused. Any help out
there. Any troubleshooting advice would be very much appreciated.B 


Donald J. Toy
"all great men are dead...and I'm not feeling well"
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: <dontoy@comcast.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1008964424.1025789.1346024435857.JavaMail.root@sz0052a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 08:50:44 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Charging Problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Did you repolarise the dynamo?  If it is *always* showing a discharge, i.e. 
when it is running as well as when you turn the lights on with the engine 
stopped, then it isn't charging.  As to 'holding it's own' you do need to 
connect a voltmeter to see if it is charging at all, although unless it 
shows a strong charge immediately after cranking and starting then again it 
probably isn't charging.

As far as your multimeter goes we don't know what you have, so RTFM :o)

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Ever since I followed detailed instructions about going from a positive 
> ground
> to a negative ground in my TF the ammeter has been showing a discharge. 
> Yes, I
> did reverse the wires on the back of the ammeter. 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 08:06:19 2012
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 13:59:00 GMT
To: dontoy@comcast.net
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Charging Problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

   You wrote that all was good before changing the polarity. Did you mean that
the dynamo was charging as it should, then, but not now?
   If it worked properly then, and you sparked/polarised it, then it should b
ok now.
   I suspect the control box. Clean its points and see if the problem is
solved.
   There are many designs for multimeters. Set yous up for DC, and use a range
that is greater than 15V, 0-20 scale would be better, if your meter has it.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: dontoy@comcast.net
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 23:40:35 +0000 (UTC)

Dear Sages of the List, (Lawrie Alexander)



Ever since I followed detailed instructions about going from a positive
ground
to a negative ground in my TF the ammeter has been showing a discharge. Yes,
I
did reverse the wires on the back of the ammeter. All was good prior to the
switch. It seems to be holding it's own while just the engine is running. As
soon as I turn on the headlights I show a fair discharge. I would love to use
a multimeter to check the generator output prior to taking it out. I do have
a
multimeter but so many placesB (6) to plug in the probesB on the multimeter.
and so many settings on the dial. I get somewhat cornfused. Any help out
there. Any troubleshooting advice would be very much appreciated.B


Donald J. Toy
"all great men are dead...and I'm not feeling well"
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 11:15:29 2012
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From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 13:10:20 -0400
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,
Noticed that I am able to move the steering wheel up and down about 1/16" in
my 67 BGT while trying to fix my horns. Took off the black covers over the
turn signal switch and see the problem. The movement is right at the top of
the column behind the self canceling arms. Has anyone else replaced that upper
nylon bearing(#24 in Moss catalog)? I know the wheel must come off, anything
else?
The horn problem, incidentally, is caused by there being no ground at the
column itself. I plan to ground a wire from the steering column clamp to a
body ground under the dash for a repair. Horns checked out and they work.
TIA,
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 12:44:20 2012
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From: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 11:36:23 -0700
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Getting a start on sorting those parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I spent yesterday taking the parts off the shelves, replacing the particle
board shelves and started photographing the parts as I put them away.  I made
decent progress on the project, and have at least gotten most of the "big
parts" that were on those shelves.

Here are the extra parts so far:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631274332080/

--
Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From: <frankk12@verizon.net>
To: "Larry Colen" <lrc@red4est.com>
References: <69DC2ED3-9F94-4C21-B1F8-E3D49DF31FBF@red4est.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 14:56:11 -0400
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Getting a start on sorting those parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Is that all? Consider yourself lucky if that's all you have! My spare parts 
consist of the entire second floor of my shop and most of the first florr 
not occupied by my MGs stored there with my Triumph Bonneville. The rest is 
outside my shop under a tarp!
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Colen" <lrc@red4est.com>
To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 2:36 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Getting a start on sorting those parts


>I spent yesterday taking the parts off the shelves, replacing the particle
> board shelves and started photographing the parts as I put them away.  I 
> made
> decent progress on the project, and have at least gotten most of the "big
> parts" that were on those shelves.
>
>
> --> 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 16:02:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Rick Lindsay <rolindsay@yahoo.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] wx changing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey, Rick, good to hear from you... 

As you might have seen, I have recently
got my '76B resuscitated with some help from Pete Cosmides at the Motorcar
Garage... I do need to do a couple of things to it - the steering wheel is
slightly off-kilter (probably from when I removed/
replaced the rack a couple
of years ago when changing the engine mounts). It kinda drives me crazy. Also,
the front end
really needs new bushings. And I'd sorta like to get rid of the
generic 'cube' fuel pump and replace it with an OEM-style.
But really, I want
to get back to the '65 project car. Just need to sit and ponder where I am and
where I'm going with it.
It's basically stripped except for engine/trans,
brake lines and wiring. 

Dan D
'76 B Driver - yeah!
'65 B Project
Central NJ
USA

________________________________
 From: Rick Lindsay
<rolindsay@yahoo.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012
8:56 AM
Subject: [Mgs] wx changing
 
Hi Friends,

Long time, no type.  No
longer owning an MG keeps me pretty quiet these days.
Still, after the first
of the year I may be helping a friend rebuild/restore
his Midget. That should
be fun.  Just putting the metric tools away will be a
treat.  :-P

If you will
allow an off-marque comment or two I'll tell you my near-field
plans.

We've
had a couple of days where the mercury has avoided the 90s and that has
me
thinking about the TR3.  As any of you living in the deep south know, our
open
sports cars are often more enjoyable on dry winter days than on
unbearably
hot, sun drenched summer days.  That is certainly the case here in
Houston,
Texas.  And I have lived here long enough now that a couple of cooler
days has
me thinking about open motoring.  Problem is that my TR3 has a dead
fuel
pump.  Well, that and the fact that it is a Triumph.  :-P

The weather has
discouraged me from changing the pump but now I find myself
pondering the
job.  Parts are already in hand but today is already booked.
Next weekend
(almost) for sure!

What are your plans / projects?  I miss you guys...
-rick, in sunny Houston
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 18:24:39 2012
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Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 16:55:52 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Getting a start on sorting those parts
Thread-Index: Ac2Er31NxzrnXTbKAEeLrGB+jijOPw==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Getting a start on sorting those parts
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Find any rebuildable HS-4s in that pile? I see you have enough Lucas
distributors to black out the west coast.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/27/12 11:36 AM, Larry Colen at lrc@red4est.com wrote:

> I spent yesterday taking the parts off the shelves, replacing the particle
> board shelves and started photographing the parts as I put them away.  I made
> decent progress on the project, and have at least gotten most of the "big
> parts" that were on those shelves.
> 
> Here are the extra parts so far:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631274332080/
> 
> --
> Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 28 01:47:40 2012
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>, "MGList List"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <D186A01F-5E37-4A19-83C9-457EF9C1DFED@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 08:47:43 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Depends if your 67 is a Mk1 or a Mk2 as the column changed from solid to 
collapsible then.  On the earlier one the inner is simply a sliding fit in 
the outer, so once removed from the car probably easy enough to drift the 
bush out from the bottom.

Even though the horn arrangements changed at the same time in both cases an 
earth on the column shaft should go through the wheel boss to the body of 
the horn push, then through the horn switch when operated.

Mk1 cars then went through the centre rivet on the horn push, to a 'bullet' 
on a wire in an insulated hole down the middle of the column shaft to the 
brass cylindrical slip-ring mounted on but insulated from the column shaft 
just below the splines.  The fixed contact rests on the slip-ring as the 
wheel is turned, and is wired out to the horns.

Mk2 cars then went through an offset spring-loaded pencil resting on the 
back of a flat slip ring attached to the back of the wheel hub, and the 
fixed contact rested on that, wired out to the horns as earlier.

I'd be very surprised if earthing the outer tube of the steering column 
fixed the problem as that is bolted to the bodywork behind the dash anyway. 
The column shaft gets its earth through the UJ, rack shaft, rack outer, 
front cross-member from the chassis rails.  It's not uncommon for cars with 
the later full energy absorbing column to have a high resistance in that 
path but I've not heard of a chrome bumper car having that problem.

If linking the fixed contact below the wheel to a clean part of the column 
shaft sounds the horn then the problem is in the horn switch or between that 
and the slip ring.

If that doesn't sound the horn but linking the fixed contact to some other 
metal work (try the column outer as well as the bodywork it is bolted to) 
does, then the problem *is* a missing earth from the column inner.  If the 
column outer sounds the horn then providing another earth won't help.

Ideally you need to test wrt earth with a voltmeter on the column shaft, 
slip-ring and fixed contact as you are pressing the horn button to see which 
how the voltages rise and fall.  You could have more than one high 
resistance rather than a complete open-circuit, as I did on my RB V8.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Noticed that I am able to move the steering wheel up and down about 1/16" 
> in
> my 67 BGT while trying to fix my horns. 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 28 06:09:39 2012
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 12:06:45 GMT
To: mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

  Using the nylon/delrin busing from GEM, I replaced the worn bushing. It was
quick and easy.
   A great improvement--the vibration in column was gone, and steering seemed
easier.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 13:10:20 -0400

Listers,
Noticed that I am able to move the steering wheel up and down about 1/16" in
my 67 BGT while trying to fix my horns. Took off the black covers over the
turn signal switch and see the problem. The movement is right at the top of
the column behind the self canceling arms. Has anyone else replaced that
upper
nylon bearing(#24 in Moss catalog)? I know the wheel must come off, anything
else?
The horn problem, incidentally, is caused by there being no ground at the
column itself. I plan to ground a wire from the steering column clamp to a
body ground under the dash for a repair. Horns checked out and they work.
TIA,
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 28 09:51:18 2012
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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 15:53:57 +0000 (UTC)
From: dontoy@comcast.net
To: mgs@autox.team.net
	(Win)/6.0.13_GA_2944)
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Charging Problems
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Thanks to Bob and Paul for helping me out with the charging problem. Turns out that maybe just maybe it takes one two or three sparks to repolarize the generator. Also a big thanks to L awrie Alexander who authored the tech help on the subject. He alluded to the fact that it just might not repolarize on the first spark. Seems like this would have been the time for my if one is enough then 15 should be really good attitude. Thanks again. Enjoy your cars. Time for a drive :^) 


Donald J. Toy 
"all great men are dead...and I'm not feeling well" 
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To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
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Looks good Dan!  -- Congrats!

CR

On 8/26/2012 5:29 PM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> Well, I picked up the '76 B from the shop yesterday and had an uneventful (besides the rain) 50-mile drive home... Car runs great,
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To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <D186A01F-5E37-4A19-83C9-457EF9C1DFED@tampabay.rr.com>
Cc: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Errr, the ground is supposed to be on the other side of the horns, not 
in the column.  IOW,  current flows from ground, through the horns, 
through the switch on the steering column and to the battery.   Note:  I 
don't want to hear any arguments about which direction current flows!

CR
On 8/27/2012 12:10 PM, W. David Houser wrote:
> Listers,
> Noticed that I am able to move the steering wheel up and down about 1/16" in
> my 67 BGT while trying to fix my horns. Took off the black covers over the
> turn signal switch and see the problem. The movement is right at the top of
> the column behind the self canceling arms. Has anyone else replaced that upper
> nylon bearing(#24 in Moss catalog)? I know the wheel must come off, anything
> else?
> The horn problem, incidentally, is caused by there being no ground at the
> column itself. I plan to ground a wire from the steering column clamp to a
> body ground under the dash for a repair. Horns checked out and they work.
> TIA,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 29 17:33:00 2012
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From: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@comcast.net>
To: "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <20120827.095900.26169.0@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:35:58 -0400
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Charging Problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Donald, check to see if your generator is putting out positive voltage. 
Maybe the field winding needs to be sparked a few more times.

A few tips:

I've found on my TD that the radiated electrical noise is so bad, I have to 
use a "non-electronic" voltmeter to measure the battery voltage when the 
motor is running. Any meter that has transistors or vacuum tubes gives bogus 
readings. Perhaps this is due to the steel plug wires and non-resistor spark 
plugs? The interference to a radio must be massive!

You probably already know that a generator shows a discharge at idle.

Ammeters are fine, but I think a voltmeter gives a better indication of the 
charging situation. If you get a reading between 13 and 14 volts running 
down the road with the headlights on, the charging system is probably OK. 
(My stock Lucas voltage regulator was set at 16 volts, and the shop manual 
seems to support this voltage. But this is way too high. I backed mine down 
to 14 volts.)

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <mgbob@juno.com>
To: <dontoy@comcast.net>
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Charging Problems


>   You wrote that all was good before changing the polarity. Did you mean 
> that
> the dynamo was charging as it should, then, but not now?
>   If it worked properly then, and you sparked/polarised it, then it should 
> b
> ok now.
>   I suspect the control box. Clean its points and see if the problem is
> solved.
>   There are many designs for multimeters. Set yous up for DC, and use a 
> range
> that is greater than 15V, 0-20 scale would be better, if your meter has 
> it.
> Bob
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: dontoy@comcast.net
> To: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Charging Problems
> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 23:40:35 +0000 (UTC)
>
> Dear Sages of the List, (Lawrie Alexander)
>
>
>
> Ever since I followed detailed instructions about going from a positive
> ground
> to a negative ground in my TF the ammeter has been showing a discharge. 
> Yes,
> I
> did reverse the wires on the back of the ammeter. All was good prior to 
> the
> switch. It seems to be holding it's own while just the engine is running. 
> As
> soon as I turn on the headlights I show a fair discharge. I would love to 
> use
> a multimeter to check the generator output prior to taking it out. I do 
> have
> a
> multimeter but so many placesB (6) to plug in the probesB on the 
> multimeter.
> and so many settings on the dial. I get somewhat cornfused. Any help out
> there. Any troubleshooting advice would be very much appreciated.B
>
>
> Donald J. Toy
> "all great men are dead...and I'm not feeling well"
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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From: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels@sbcglobal.net>
To: <ccrobins@ktc.com>, "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <D186A01F-5E37-4A19-83C9-457EF9C1DFED@tampabay.rr.com>
	<503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:10:53 -0500
Cc: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play
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----Original Message----- 
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson 
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 5:55 PM 
To: W. David Houser 
Cc: MGList List 
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play 

Errr, the ground is supposed to be on the other side of the horns, not 
in the column.  IOW,  current flows from ground, through the horns, 
through the switch on the steering column and to the battery.   Note:  I 
don't want to hear any arguments about which direction current flows!

CR


=========================================

I just checked... the current was pretty much going downstream.

Sorry, CR.  Couldn't help myself.

Larry
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Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 21:52:09 -0500
From: Charles Hill <chillmog@sbcglobal.net>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <D186A01F-5E37-4A19-83C9-457EF9C1DFED@tampabay.rr.com>
	<503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Not if you have positive ground.  Think older MGs

Charles Hill

On 8/29/2012 5:55 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> Errr, the ground is supposed to be on the other side of the horns, not 
> in the column.  IOW,  current flows from ground, through the horns, 
> through the switch on the steering column and to the battery.   Note:  
> I don't want to hear any arguments about which direction current flows!
>
> CR
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Charles Hill" <chillmog@sbcglobal.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <D186A01F-5E37-4A19-83C9-457EF9C1DFED@tampabay.rr.com><503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com>
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Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 08:49:09 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play
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Not even most negative grounds.  The earth wasn't at the horns and 12v from 
the switch until the 77 year (although some schematics don't even show it 
that way then).  Until then the earth always came from the switch, picked up 
from the column shaft for the wheel centre button except for the 1970 year 
when it was wired to the column stalk switch.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Not if you have positive ground.  Think older MGs
>
> On 8/29/2012 5:55 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>> Errr, the ground is supposed to be on the other side of the horns, not in 
>> the column.  IOW,  current flows from ground, through the horns, through 
>> the switch on the steering column and to the battery.   Note:  I don't 
>> want to hear any arguments about which direction current flows!
_______________________________________________

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@comcast.net>, "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <20120827.095900.26169.0@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
	<D07184B364FA4A0A9A227089C3EA75B3@yourmb2swywknr>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 08:56:24 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Charging Problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The electro-mechanical regulator is rather temperature dependant.  The MGB 
Workshop Manual quotes 14.3 to 14.9v at 40C/104F, but 14.9 to 15.5v at 
10C/50F.  16v *is* too high (for an MGB at any rate), but 14v is too low, 
adjust it to that at low temperatures and it will be under-charging at 
higher temps.  The electronic alternator regulator is quoted at 14.3 to 
14.7, but the lower end of that can be too low, at one point Mercedes were 
having to select regulators at the higher end of the range as the lower end 
was causing premature battery failure on cars not used daily.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> (My stock Lucas voltage regulator was set at 16 volts, and the shop manual 
> seems to support this voltage. But this is way too high. I backed mine 
> down to 14 volts.)
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Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 05:19:47 -0500
To: mgs@autox.team.net
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <20120827.095900.26169.0@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
	<D07184B364FA4A0A9A227089C3EA75B3@yourmb2swywknr>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Charging Problems
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>----- Original Message -----
>(My stock Lucas voltage regulator was set at 16 volts, and the shop 
>manual seems to support this voltage. But this is way too high. I 
>backed mine down to 14 volts.)

I don't recall who wrote that, but it is not exactly what the book 
says, and it is misleading.

The book instructions call for disconnecting the cables from control 
box terminals A and A1 and connecting them together while testing 
voltage or adjusting the control box.  Then the regulator relay 
should be adjusted to make the dynamo generate "around" 16 volts 
(depending on ambient temperature).

There is a sentence missing from the instructions in the book.  It 
should additionally say, "When finished testing, reconnect the cables 
to control box terminals A and A1".

What that does is to disconnect the car's electrical load AND the 
battery from the dynamo, so it will be running with zero electrical 
load during the test or adjustment.  Under those circumstances (no 
load) it should be adjusted to make about 16 volts.  However once the 
load is reconnected to the dynamo it will not put out 16 volts.  When 
there is an electrical load the dynamo output voltage will drop 
significantly, and the greater the current draw the lower the 
voltage.  Since voltage varies depending on a variable load, it is 
best to test or adjust the regulator with no load so the results will 
be consistent and repeatable.

When the thing is adjusted by the book, then reconnected and run 
under load, the voltage will be substantially lower.  When running 
with only the ignition and fuel pump under power and the battery 
fully charged, the voltage (at elevated engine speed) may be around 
15.5 volts at the dynamo output terminal.  With headlights and other 
electrical equipment switched on the dynamo output voltage may be 
around 14.5 volts.  If the battery is significantly discharged and 
drawing a lot of current during recharging, you might see only 14 
volts at dynamo output, and possibly as low as 13.5 volts at the 
battery terminals, depending on state of charge of the battery.

So if you are measuring system voltage with the cables connected 
(normal electrical load), then 16 volts is too high, and 14 volts is too low.

My Mitsubishi 60 amp alternator will put out 14.52 +/- 0.02 volts 
under any load circumstances with any engine speed of 700 rpm or 
greater.  Don't expect a generator to be that consistent.  A 
generator will put out far less current and lower voltage at low 
speed, so it is intended to be adjusted to put out slightly higher 
voltage (than the alternator) at higher speed and low load to make it 
average out well enough to keep the battery charged with higher load.

You just have to get used to the fact that with a generator the 
system voltage varies considerably with various load and engine 
speed.  Running with headlights switched off and battery mostly 
charges, 15 volts at the dynamo output terminal is pretty good, and 
it should never do 16 volts with the battery connected to the generator.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com
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Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 10:59:32 -0600
From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
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Subject: [Mgs] What do you think about this BGT?
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http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/12368957

Anyone driven one with a GM V6 in it?  What about the price?

--
Andrew
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Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 12:02:04 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
References: <D186A01F-5E37-4A19-83C9-457EF9C1DFED@tampabay.rr.com><503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com>
	<503ED559.1070503@sbcglobal.net>
	<9027CD03C6B64B5E8D4BF36EFCDAA44A@paul>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play
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I have a '69 MGB, with a stalk switch and the ground is at the horns.  
Guess I should have said, "On my '69................"  Agree that the 
wiring diagrams may contain a few errors. :-)

CR

CR
On 8/30/2012 2:49 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> Not even most negative grounds.  The earth wasn't at the horns and 12v 
> from the switch until the 77 year (although some schematics don't even 
> show it that way then).  Until then the earth always came from the 
> switch, picked up from the column shaft for the wheel centre button 
> except for the 1970 year when it was wired to the column stalk switch.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> Not if you have positive ground.  Think older MGs
>>
>> On 8/29/2012 5:55 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>>> Errr, the ground is supposed to be on the other side of the horns, 
>>> not in the column.  IOW,  current flows from ground, through the 
>>> horns, through the switch on the steering column and to the 
>>> battery.   Note:  I don't want to hear any arguments about which 
>>> direction current flows!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 30 11:44:51 2012
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Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 10:38:31 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] What do you think about this BGT?
Thread-Index: Ac2G1kV0jdkGiGK7SkWYYdEqRiUsuw==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] What do you think about this BGT?
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A friend has an Alpine with this motor, and a 5-spd. It pulls like a freight
train (compared to the 1725, at least).



on 8/30/12 9:59 AM, Andrew B. Lundgren at lundgren@byu.net wrote:

> http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/12368957
> 
> Anyone driven one with a GM V6 in it?  What about the price?
> 
> --
> Andrew


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <D186A01F-5E37-4A19-83C9-457EF9C1DFED@tampabay.rr.com><503E9DE4.7010304@ktc.com>
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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 12:46:02 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 67 BGT steering wheel play
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

That would need two wires going through the stalk, they would have to be 
pretty thin, and the horns take quite a lot of current.  I was under the 
impression that the earth for the switch was fed up the metal tube of the 
stalk, meaning only one wire - purple/black - coming down and going out to 
the horns.  The main colour of purple indicates it is controlling a device 
connected to the fused, always live supply, and the tracer colour of black 
indicates that an earth is connected to operate the device.  Generally 
speaking when a wire colour was first used that was the convention, although 
if there were subsequent changes, as from 77 when the horns *were* backed by 
an earth instead of 12v, they kept the colour of the controlling wire.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I have a '69 MGB, with a stalk switch and the ground is at the horns. 
>Guess I should have said, "On my '69................"  Agree that the 
>wiring diagrams may contain a few errors. :-)
>
> CR
>
> CR
> On 8/30/2012 2:49 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>> Not even most negative grounds.  The earth wasn't at the horns and 12v 
>> from the switch until the 77 year (although some schematics don't even 
>> show it that way then).  Until then the earth always came from the 
>> switch, picked up from the column shaft for the wheel centre button 
>> except for the 1970 year when it was wired to the column stalk switch.
>>
>> PaulH.
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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 14:24:51 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
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To: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
References: <503F9BF4.5030107@byu.net>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] What do you think about this BGT?
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Looks good from the outside.   On a car that had an engine/tranny swap 
I'd always like to see how the swap was done.  Sounds like it has a 
single exhaust setup.  Price looks OK if it's rust-free and the swap was 
executed well.

CR
On 8/30/2012 11:59 AM, Andrew B. Lundgren wrote:
> http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/12368957
>
> Anyone driven one with a GM V6 in it?  What about the price?
>
> -- 
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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