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From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 11:21:33 -0400
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Cleaning black sidewalls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,
The tires on my TD, A and B look great after treating them to Tire Dressing
but after 3 months they are white with a dry waxy residue.
What can I clean off this stuff with and what is the recommended dressing that
will give a low sheen, not glistening finish that will not dry to white?
TIA,
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  1 10:35:27 2013
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 11:26:21 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Valve gear in my '53 TD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Yesterday I posted links to a couple of pictures of my '53 TD's head
and valve cover.  What I didn't have at that time, was a picture of
the valve gear.

Now, here's a picture of the valve gear.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130801_105925.jpg

In that picture you can just see the new locking tabs under the bolt
heads.  What isn't visible is just how clean the valves are, how well
they lapped on their seats with minimal effort, and how smooth and
'new' fitting the valves are in their guides - including the one that
was stuck!  No lateral movement movement in the guides was observed.

Also in that picture you can see the Bakelite thumb nuts, and a pair
of washers for each post; one metal, one rubber, to function as a
seal.

When disassembling the valve gear, I discovered that two of the oil
shields were incorrect.  They were too short.  Here's another look at
them.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1376.JPG

One of the two shields on the right, in this picture, was on the valve
that stuck.  Was that a source of the extra oil that flushed down the
#2 valve stem?  Possibly.  The 'glue' that stuck the valve in the
guide was gum, not carbon or burned oil.  I suspect that the short oil
shield allowed too much oil to seep between the stem and the guide -
then the car sat unused for a decade or so.  I suspect that the valve
was sticking, worse and worse, until it finally stuck closed and the
pushrod broke, probably on a start-up after setting.  That's how Bill
got the car and how I got it.

Although not visible in the picture, there are two new, proper length
oil shields installed.  A new pushrod is in hand.  The lifters are
healthy, as are their boars.  The cam lobes 'look' okay but I can only
see some of the lobe crests.  More on that when I know it.

That's it.

-rick
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2013 13:28:55 -0500
From: "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness@stclegal.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] MGA Timing cover bolt pattern
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have a reference that shows what size bolts go into which of 
the timing cover holes?  There seems to be three different sizes at issue.
-- 
e-mail signature Robert Guinness
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References: <70E53F57-A9DC-493F-BBE0-7A6DC2B1FBE6@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 12:03:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carl French <leylandauto@yahoo.com>
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>, MGList List
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cleaning black sidewalls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I use Westleys Bleche White spray. Spray it on liberally to a dry tire,
agitate with a brush after a couple minutes rinse off liberally. It tends to
require a lot of water to get all the suds off. Works Very well. It is
somewhat caustic so keep that in mind on exposed skin. It come in a white
spray bottle with red and blue graphics and is readily available at any car
cleaning section. There are several low gloss rubber trim options available in
every auto care department
Good Luck
Carl French
________________________________
 From: W. David Houser
<mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Thursday, August 1, 2013 11:21 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Cleaning black sidewalls
Listers,
The tires on my TD, A and B look great after treating them to Tire
Dressing
but after 3 months they are white with a dry waxy residue.
What can I
clean off this stuff with and what is the recommended dressing that
will give
a low sheen, not glistening finish that will not dry to white?
TIA,
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Donate:
Archive:
Unsubscribe:
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 12:28:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>, MGList List
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cleaning black sidewalls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I actually stopped treating my tires when I bought new ones for the '76 B (as
well as my Audi A4). I found that unless you kept at
it constantly, the tires
turned this weird shade of brown. 

Dan D
'76 B, '65 B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: W. David Houser
<mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Thursday, August 1, 2013 11:21 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Cleaning black sidewalls
Listers,
The tires on my TD, A and B look great after treating them to Tire
Dressing
but after 3 months they are white with a dry waxy residue.
What can I
clean off this stuff with and what is the recommended dressing that
will give
a low sheen, not glistening finish that will not dry to white?
TIA,
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Donate:
Archive:
Unsubscribe:
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  1 16:44:36 2013
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From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 18:39:08 -0400
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] MGB vent window opener
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,
I'm always looking for ways to improve or modify the ways things work on my
MG's: a TD, MGA Coupe and MGB-GT.
For the TD, I made an aluminum storage box that fits under the TD storage area
plywood to hold additional spares for the Circuit of Britain, an L shaped
bracket to hold open the coupe vent window to maximize the airflow into the
car and now I want to do the same for the BGT. The BGT doesn't have a screw on
the door capping but there is a metal channel to which something can be placed
to hold the vent window full open. I have the springed screw in the door as
tight as I dare tighten it, but speed closes it down. My question: Has anyone
thought of a way to do this or have I got to figure it out?
Cheers,
_______________________________________________

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	<1375385315.70997.YahooMailNeo@web164904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 19:11:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Breneman <david_breneman@yahoo.com>
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cleaning black sidewalls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

 I've found that Simple Green works well for both black and
white
sidewalls.  If you're in the Pacific Northwest, you
can get a
backwards-engineered equivalent, "Purple Clean"
a lot cheaper from Tacoma
Screw Products.  Works just as well.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  1 22:58:47 2013
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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2013 23:55:44 -0500
To: "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness@stclegal.com>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <51FAA8E7.7060801@stclegal.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA Timing cover bolt pattern
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I think it is impossible to install them out of place.

The shortest 1/4 inch bolts (very short) go only into the engine 
front plate with tapped holes where there is nothing else benind 
it.  The longer 1/4 inch bolts (2) go onto the two lowest holes where 
they screw into the front main bearing cap.  The rest are larger thread size.

HZS0403   1/4-28-UNFx3/8  (3)  Front cover to mounting plate.
HZS0406   1/4-28-UNFx3/4  (2)  Front cover to main bearing cap.
HZS0506  5/16-24-UNFx3/4  (4)  Front cover to mounting plate and crankcase.


At 01:28 PM 8/1/2013 -0500, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>Does anyone have a reference that shows what size bolts go into which of
>the timing cover holes?  There seems to be three different sizes at issue.
>....
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 01:19:29 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>, "MGList List"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <70E53F57-A9DC-493F-BBE0-7A6DC2B1FBE6@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 16:55:41 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cleaning black sidewalls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought ArmorAll originally for the rubber bumpers on my V8, but didn't 
like it as it took loads of applications, but then went a chalky white over 
time.  However it did bring the tyres up nicely, very black with virtually 
no shine.  But then the effect wears off after about 50 miles, and I'm not a 
show person, so don't bother now, just give them a wash.  The chrome wire 
wheels are another story, washed, wiped dry, polish applied, then buffed up, 
at an hour a wheel!  That can last several hundred dry miles, and even then 
there is only a film of dry dust.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The tires on my TD, A and B look great after treating them to Tire 
> Dressing
> but after 3 months they are white with a dry waxy residue.
> What can I clean off this stuff with and what is the recommended dressing 
> that
> will give a low sheen, not glistening finish that will not dry to white?
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 02:21:26 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>, "MGList List"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <A8092E3D-7866-4EBB-A8F1-D8A13DF2383E@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 08:55:41 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB vent window opener
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The spring *should* be enough to hold the vent open.  There is a brass tube 
on the pivot pin and this should be above the 1/4-light frame, i.e. in the 
vent seal.  Under the 1/4-light frame i.e. in the door cavity there should 
be a washer, then the spring, then another washer, then the nut.  Tightening 
the nut compresses the spring and should squeeze the 1/4-light frame between 
the brass tube and the washer above the spring, and this friction should be 
enough to hold the vent open.  If some of these parts are missing or worn 
out it should be easy enough to remove the vent by undoing the nut under the 
spring, and checking/replacing parts.  However if the brass tube has worn 
through the vent frame you will have to lift the vent seal and probably put 
a washer above as well.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... I have the springed screw in the door as
> tight as I dare tighten it, but speed closes it down. 
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To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>, MGList List
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barrie Robinson <barrie@look.ca>
References: <A8092E3D-7866-4EBB-A8F1-D8A13DF2383E@tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB vent window opener
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David,

I have been toying with the same idea..  It seems that all one needs 
is a hook to the moveable vent and the other end a hook to the 
chromed divider/channel upright.  I was going to take a photo but I 
have lost my small Canon Powershot camera and I cannot buy a new one 
- No cameras (except expensive SLRs) these days seem to have a 
sighting viewer just an LCD which are pretty useless (although the 
peasants like them).


At 06:39 PM 01/08/2013 -0400, W. David Houser wrote:
>Listers,
>I'm always looking for ways to improve or modify the ways things work on my
>MG's: a TD, MGA Coupe and MGB-GT.
>For the TD, I made an aluminum storage box that fits under the TD storage area
>plywood to hold additional spares for the Circuit of Britain, an L shaped
>bracket to hold open the coupe vent window to maximize the airflow into the
>car and now I want to do the same for the BGT. The BGT doesn't have a screw on
>the door capping but there is a metal channel to which something can be placed
>to hold the vent window full open. I have the springed screw in the door as
>tight as I dare tighten it, but speed closes it down. My question: Has anyone
>thought of a way to do this or have I got to figure it out?
>Cheers,
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie@look.ca

Regards,
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
MGB GT V8 in concours condition
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.AMFClub.com
www.britcot.com
www.vectisgroup.ca
barrie@look.ca
Barrie, Ontario
705-721-9060 
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From: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 12:04:26 -0500
To: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm finally getting around to trying to find the piece of "gunk" in the
carbs (HIF's) that has been causing a very intermittent miss (it's been
running fine for several weeks). I'll remove both carbs as an assembly
using an attachment I made. Since the car is running great except for this,
I really don't want to completely disassemble the carbs and have to
readjust everything. So to remove the small particle do I have to do any
more than remove the bottom cover and jet, clean both and spray some carb
cleaner down the jet "pathway"?
Thanks,
Monte 79B, HIF converted
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From: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 12:06:57 -0500
To: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

And, of course, clean the needle valve and seat area. Will the carb burn
small amounts of carb cleaner if I squirt down the seat area from above?
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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 12:21:11 -0500
To: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>,MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
	mail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHoqWAKG+vi_jOucn3AT=40KhgH=KBr5-sHPKLd2s4ZttA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] carbs
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If you're patient you can remove the float bowls without removing the carbs.

Peter C

At 12:06 PM 8/2/2013, Monte Jane Morris wrote:
>And, of course, clean the needle valve and seat area. Will the carb burn
>small amounts of carb cleaner if I squirt down the seat area from above?
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To: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>
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Cc: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] carbs
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You'd be better off to remove the float bowls and clean 'em out.

CR
On 8/2/2013 12:04 PM, Monte Jane Morris wrote:
> I'm finally getting around to trying to find the piece of "gunk" in the
> carbs (HIF's) that has been causing a very intermittent miss (it's been
> running fine for several weeks). I'll remove both carbs as an assembly
> using an attachment I made. Since the car is running great except for this,
> I really don't want to completely disassemble the carbs and have to
> readjust everything. So to remove the small particle do I have to do any
> more than remove the bottom cover and jet, clean both and spray some carb
> cleaner down the jet "pathway"?
> Thanks,
> Monte 79B, HIF converted
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 23:26:52 -0600
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
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Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cleaning black sidewalls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

That is the reason I got the mini lite knock offs and left the spokes
behind. Too much maintenance for me.
On Aug 2, 2013 1:20 AM, "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com> wrote:

> I bought ArmorAll originally for the rubber bumpers on my V8, but didn't
> like it as it took loads of applications, but then went a chalky white over
> time.  However it did bring the tyres up nicely, very black with virtually
> no shine.  But then the effect wears off after about 50 miles, and I'm not
> a show person, so don't bother now, just give them a wash.  The chrome wire
> wheels are another story, washed, wiped dry, polish applied, then buffed
> up, at an hour a wheel!  That can last several hundred dry miles, and even
> then there is only a film of dry dust.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> The tires on my TD, A and B look great after treating them to Tire
>> Dressing
>> but after 3 months they are white with a dry waxy residue.
>> What can I clean off this stuff with and what is the recommended dressing
>> that
>> will give a low sheen, not glistening finish that will not dry to white?
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 03:30:16 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Monte Jane Morris" <montejane@gmail.com>, "MG list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAHEsxHoxtmKk-O7=P+2SHd1KUxWJXxBs_fz=-cxTK5VqxWpTOg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 10:02:51 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

How intermittent is this miss?  Just the occasional cough?  Or a period of 
rough running?  I wouldn't expect a bit of debris in a carb to cause just an 
occasional single miss, more likely to be a period of rough running while 
one carb is blocked I'd have said.  Carb cleaner won't hurt, but unless the 
debris is dissolvable it's unlikely to do anything with that.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I'm finally getting around to trying to find the piece of "gunk" in the
> carbs (HIF's) that has been causing a very intermittent miss 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 04:31:56 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Andrew Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
References: <70E53F57-A9DC-493F-BBE0-7A6DC2B1FBE6@tampabay.rr.com><7101048E8CD54C8DA39F4F51FC8A1960@paul>
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 11:11:27 +0100
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cleaning black sidewalls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ah well, they only get the full works two or three times a year, and the
results are worth it.  Each to their own, some spend more than that running
cotton-buds through the treads ...

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----


  That is the reason I got the mini lite knock offs and left the spokes
behind. Too much maintenance for me.

      The chrome wire wheels are another story, washed, wiped dry, polish
applied, then buffed up, at an hour a wheel!
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 15:05:01 2013
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From: "Stephen West-Fisher" <steve@coastaldatasystems.com>
To: "'MG list'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 17:04:24 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] carbs
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Just did that on the front carb of my HIFs. Jiggled the float, hit the
ignition to flow some fuel through the valve, screwed the bottom back on and
no more value sticking open.
No, it's not the right way, but I just needed it to run without dripping
fuel everywhere in the yard while I got my Land-Rover up on the trailer.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Peter Caldwell
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2013 1:21 PM
To: Monte Jane Morris; MG list
Subject: Re: [Mgs] carbs

If you're patient you can remove the float bowls without removing the carbs.

Peter C

At 12:06 PM 8/2/2013, Monte Jane Morris wrote:
>And, of course, clean the needle valve and seat area. Will the carb 
>burn small amounts of carb cleaner if I squirt down the seat area from
above?
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From: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 19:44:10 -0500
To: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I got the carbs off, cleaned, float adjusted and back on. Drove it 16 miles
with no hesitation. I did see a few very small pieces of black (rubber?) in
the bowl.
Thanks for the help.
Monte
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 01:51:31 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Monte Jane Morris" <montejane@gmail.com>, "MG list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAHEsxHp1fqrHwrCCCr7C=N_yHzAVL0sZa=p=W22N0AgNd_GM+A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 08:27:04 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Might be an idea to replace the hoses.  Pushing decomposing hoses back on to 
the ports could well scrape more rubber off to cause the same problem again.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I got the carbs off, cleaned, float adjusted and back on. Drove it 16 miles
> with no hesitation. I did see a few very small pieces of black (rubber?) 
> in
> the bowl.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 15:13:41 2013
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] OT - My friend has a great car needing a good home
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Hard to believe those asking prices. =-O

CR
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 21:41:03 -0700
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] How to attach under-dash liner?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a '71 MGB-GT on  which the under-dash liner (with speaker attached)
keeps dropping. It is not attached at the end nearest the passenger. How
should this be attached?

Simon
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 11:46:41 GMT
To: simon.d.matthews@gmail.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] How to attach under-dash liner?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

   My 72 GT has a tab welded to the square-section tube that at bottom of the
dash. I use a self tapping screw through a hole in the panel, into a
fahnstock(?) clip on that tab.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] How to attach under-dash liner?
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 21:41:03 -0700

I have a '71 MGB-GT on  which the under-dash liner (with speaker attached)
keeps dropping. It is not attached at the end nearest the passenger. How
should this be attached?

Simon
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 04:53:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] OT - My friend has a great car needing a good home
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dumb question - is that really where the gas tank on a TR3 is? No bulkhead
separating it from the passenger compartment?

Dan D
'65B, 76B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: peter gregware <tr3_diddums@yahoo.com>;
"mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>; mg-t@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Monday, August 5, 2013 12:09 PM
Subject: [Mgs] OT - My friend has a great car
needing a good home
 

Hello Friends,

Please forgive the commercial nature of
this post.  I'm not writing to
advertise a car so much as trying to help a
friend who badly needs to
liquidate his car.  The car is a Triumph TR3.  Yea,
I know this is the
M.G., list but this is a great car for someone - and at a
bottom-dollar price.  (Check Hagerty to see the value of a nicely
restored
car!)  Sadly (or not) I already have NINE cars.  Here are a
few pictures;
http://www.aubard.us/Pete/

...and his listing,
http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/3937042732.html

Thanks guys and again,
sorry for 'marketing'.  Peter's a really good
guy.  He just needs a little
help right now.

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 06:07:30 2013
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	<1375789980.52525.YahooMailNeo@web164901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 05:07:11 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net
  List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] OT - My friend has a great car needing a good home
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

That's were the tank is.  Same on a Spitfire.
For that matter, on a Model T Ford it was under the seat, on a Model a it
was in the cowl in front of the windshield.  On my 61 Chevy pickup, the
tank was behind the bench seat.
Rick

On Tue, Aug 6, 2013 at 4:53 AM, Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Dumb question - is that really where the gas tank on a TR3 is? No bulkhead
> separating it from the passenger compartment?
>
> Dan D
> '65B, 76B
> Central NJ USA
> ________________________________
>  From: Richard Lindsay
> <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
> To: peter gregware <tr3_diddums@yahoo.com>;
> "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Sent:
> Monday, August 5, 2013 12:09 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] OT - My friend has a great car
> needing a good home
>
>
> Hello Friends,
>
> Please forgive the commercial nature of
> this post.  I'm not writing to
> advertise a car so much as trying to help a
> friend who badly needs to
> liquidate his car.  The car is a Triumph TR3.  Yea,
> I know this is the
> M.G., list but this is a great car for someone - and at a
> bottom-dollar price.  (Check Hagerty to see the value of a nicely
> restored
> car!)  Sadly (or not) I already have NINE cars.  Here are a
> few pictures;
> http://www.aubard.us/Pete/
>
> ...and his listing,
> http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/3937042732.html
>
> Thanks guys and again,
> sorry for 'marketing'.  Peter's a really good
> guy.  He just needs a little
> help right now.
>
> -rick
> _______________________________________________
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'Simon Matthews'" <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>, "'MGS'"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAEUYfyMk2mK-YVhpCEjaEeBbQFjtuPZBjAiQH9otiuQFrgUhCQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 19:28:57 +0200
Thread-Index: AQKUhRW/9Ock4r7Kq5/C9twIUTsh65f8ia4A
Content-Language: nl
	FILETIME=[6D559F20:01CE92CA]
Subject: Re: [Mgs] How to attach under-dash liner?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I just have left it off - there is no radio in the car, so ...
This liner is of poor quality and I left it out.
Same counts for the liner under the left part of the dash.
Easy to work on the electrics.

I still have the radio from my very first car (a 1970 Citrokn 2 CV), which
had the speaker inside the radio.
AM only and we were happy with the sound.
The 2 CV makes quite a noise, so the BGT does.

Cheers,
Hans

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens
Simon Matthews
Verzonden: dinsdag 6 augustus 2013 6:41
Aan: MGS
Onderwerp: [Mgs] How to attach under-dash liner?

I have a '71 MGB-GT on  which the under-dash liner (with speaker attached)
keeps dropping. It is not attached at the end nearest the passenger. How
should this be attached?

Simon
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References: <05dvhh48s4omn17xlskva6ys.1375824015286@email.android.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 14:40:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] Starter rebuild...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Not sure why all the 'B's' when you post from your Galaxy, Rick, but reading
the posts with them reminds me of Mushmouth -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMADJcimnds

(You'll get the idea in the first
15 seconds or so..... ;-)

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Rick Lindsay
<richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: kingseim@earthlink.net 
Cc:
mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, August 6, 2013 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] Starter rebuild...
 

Hi John. B Thanks. B They may
be aluminum. B If so, I understand the problem. B Thanks.

-rick


Sent from
my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a
BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: John Seim
<kingseim@earthlink.net> 
Date: 08/06/2013  4:18 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: Rick
Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com> 
Cc:
mg-t@autox.team.net,mgs@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Starter rebuild...
Chances are, you have aluminum replacement coils in your starter.
Originally,
the brushes were crimped to the aluminum, as you cannot solder
them. Might
have been spot welded. When brushes need to be replaced,
and the field coil is
made of aluminum, best to replace the field coils with
those made of copper.
John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Aug 6, 2013, at 2:00 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> Hi
Friends,
> 
> My '53 TD's M35G starter rebuild is almost complete. B
Everything is clean and lubricated, where appropriate. B Bushes are just fine,
oil soaked and their journals are smooth.
> 
> What I did discover is that the
brass terminal post is not soldered to the field windings! B The two flat
conductors from the field, were just pinched into the slot in the inner end of
the post. B They were quite grimey at the contact point, so they've been like
this for quite a while.
> 
> Reviewing the workshop manual today, I see that
the flat conductors should be (apparently) soldered to the post. B Can you
verify that is correct? B Considering the current drawn, I can't imagine that
a simple press-fit connection is valid - but I could be wrong. B Your
thoughts?
> 
> -rick
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle
with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.
>
______________________________________________
> 
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>
> Suggested annual donationB  $11.47
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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Donate:
Archive:
Unsubscribe:
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 15:48:50 2013
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2013 16:48:40 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: d_dibiase@yahoo.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] Starter rebuild...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Dan. B Android e-mail tool only allows fancy-schmancy text, with no simple ASCII text option. B Sorry.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com> 
Date: 08/06/2013  4:40 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com> 
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] Starter rebuild... 
 
Not sure why all the 'B's' when you post from your Galaxy, Rick, but reading the posts with them reminds me of Mushmouth -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMADJcimnds

(You'll get the idea in the first 15 seconds or so..... ;-)

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA



________________________________
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: kingseim@earthlink.net 
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, August 6, 2013 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] Starter rebuild...


Hi John. B Thanks. B They may be aluminum. B If so, I understand the problem. B Thanks.

-rick


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net> 
Date: 08/06/2013B  4:18 PMB  (GMT-06:00) 
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com> 
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net,mgs@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Starter rebuild... 

Chances are, you have aluminum replacement coils in your starter.
Originally, the brushes were crimped to the aluminum, as you cannot solder
them. Might have been spot welded. When brushes need to be replaced,
and the field coil is made of aluminum, best to replace the field coils with
those made of copper.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Aug 6, 2013, at 2:00 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> Hi Friends,
> 
> My '53 TD's M35G starter rebuild is almost complete. B Everything is clean and lubricated, where appropriate. B Bushes are just fine, oil soaked and their journals are smooth.
> 
> What I did discover is that the brass terminal post is not soldered to the field windings! B The two flat conductors from the field, were just pinched into the slot in the inner end of the post. B They were quite grimey at the contact point, so they've been like this for quite a while.
> 
> Reviewing the workshop manual today, I see that the flat conductors should be (apparently) soldered to the post. B Can you verify that is correct? B Considering the current drawn, I can't imagine that a simple press-fit connection is valid - but I could be wrong. B Your thoughts?
> 
> -rick
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.
> ______________________________________________
> 
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationBB  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 17:00:15 2013
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References: <eueeydmovg14feiu8td42bm7.1375825720397@email.android.com>
From: Paul Root <ptrmgb@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 17:56:40 -0500
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] Starter rebuild...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I prefer the gmail client.

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 6, 2013, at 4:48 PM, Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Dan. B Android e-mail tool only allows fancy-schmancy text, with no
simple ASCII text option. B Sorry.
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just
like a BlackBerry.
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
> Date: 08/06/2013  4:40 PM  (GMT-06:00)
> To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
> Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] Starter rebuild...
>
> Not sure why all the 'B's' when you post from your Galaxy, Rick, but reading
the posts with them reminds me of Mushmouth -
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMADJcimnds
>
> (You'll get the idea in the first 15 seconds or so..... ;-)
>
> Dan D
> '76B, '65B
> Central NJ USA
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
> To: kingseim@earthlink.net
> Cc: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, August 6, 2013 5:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] Starter rebuild...
>
>
> Hi John. B Thanks. B They may be aluminum. B If so, I understand the
problem. B Thanks.
>
> -rick
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just
like a BlackBerry.
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
> Date: 08/06/2013B  4:18 PMB  (GMT-06:00)
> To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
> Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net,mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Starter rebuild...
>
> Chances are, you have aluminum replacement coils in your starter.
> Originally, the brushes were crimped to the aluminum, as you cannot solder
> them. Might have been spot welded. When brushes need to be replaced,
> and the field coil is made of aluminum, best to replace the field coils
with
> those made of copper.
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA
>
> On Aug 6, 2013, at 2:00 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Hi Friends,
>>
>> My '53 TD's M35G starter rebuild is almost complete. B Everything is clean
and lubricated, where appropriate. B Bushes are just fine, oil soaked and
their journals are smooth.
>>
>> What I did discover is that the brass terminal post is not soldered to the
field windings! B The two flat conductors from the field, were just pinched
into the slot in the inner end of the post. B They were quite grimey at the
contact point, so they've been like this for quite a while.
>>
>> Reviewing the workshop manual today, I see that the flat conductors should
be (apparently) soldered to the post. B Can you verify that is correct? B
Considering the current drawn, I can't imagine that a simple press-fit
connection is valid - but I could be wrong. B Your thoughts?
>>
>> -rick
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just
like a BlackBerry.
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donationBB  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 19:37:50 2013
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Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 01:35:13 GMT
To: h.duinhoven@planet.nl
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] How to attach under-dash liner?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

   The panel is a nuisance, both to install and to remove for working behind
the dashboard.
   In GTs, though, it does seem to quiet the cabin a bit.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'Simon Matthews'" <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>, "'MGS'"
<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] How to attach under-dash liner?
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 19:28:57 +0200

I just have left it off - there is no radio in the car, so ...
This liner is of poor quality and I left it out.
Same counts for the liner under the left part of the dash.
Easy to work on the electrics.

I still have the radio from my very first car (a 1970 Citrokn 2 CV), which
had the speaker inside the radio.
AM only and we were happy with the sound.
The 2 CV makes quite a noise, so the BGT does.

Cheers,
Hans

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens
Simon Matthews
Verzonden: dinsdag 6 augustus 2013 6:41
Aan: MGS
Onderwerp: [Mgs] How to attach under-dash liner?

I have a '71 MGB-GT on  which the under-dash liner (with speaker attached)
keeps dropping. It is not attached at the end nearest the passenger. How
should this be attached?

Simon
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From: "Peter Schauss" <rpschauss@gmail.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 22:34:54 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6TFp1HsEZCDg/KQ1SL5M2GWO8SVw==
Subject: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I tried to order a new fuel pump for my MGB from Moss and found that both
the standard and the electronic versions are on indefinite backorder.
People at British Car Specialists told me that Burlen has suspended
production of these pumps because of failures caused by ethanol in the
gasoline.  BCS is shipping me a German-built replacement for the SU.  I will
let you all know how it works out.

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 21:37:18 2013
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2013 20:31:55 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
Thread-Index: Ac6TFp1HsEZCDg/KQ1SL5M2GWO8SVwACAytu
Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for this info. I was just thinking of ordering a solid state since I
have had issues with the current unit (a mashup of an oldie and a Moss
points replacement). The new points unit was so poorly constructed I swapped
in the parts from the ancient unit, but now I understandably don't have an
immense amount of faith in it.



on 8/6/13 7:34 PM, Peter Schauss at rpschauss@gmail.com wrote:

> I tried to order a new fuel pump for my MGB from Moss and found that both
> the standard and the electronic versions are on indefinite backorder.
> People at British Car Specialists told me that Burlen has suspended
> production of these pumps because of failures caused by ethanol in the
> gasoline.  BCS is shipping me a German-built replacement for the SU.  I will
> let you all know how it works out.
> 
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB 



--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2013 02:30:07 -0500
To: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <5201b24e.8420e00a.2c55.ffffb9cc@mx.google.com>
	<CE270DBB.487EE%mvheim@sonic.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Max,

DId the bad new erplacement points look something like this:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/faulty/ft037.htm

This is a five year old problem that may be still hanging around.

Barney


At 08:31 PM 8/6/2013 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>.... I was just thinking of ordering a solid state since I
>have had issues with the current unit (a mashup of an oldie and a Moss
>points replacement). The new points unit was so poorly constructed I swapped
>in the parts from the ancient unit, but now I understandably don't have an
>immense amount of faith in it.


>on 8/6/13 7:34 PM, Peter Schauss at rpschauss@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > I tried to order a new fuel pump for my MGB from Moss and found that both
> > the standard and the electronic versions are on indefinite backorder.
> > ....
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <5201b24e.8420e00a.2c55.ffffb9cc@mx.google.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 07:36:01 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a link to several fuel pump rebuilders. 
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/links.html
 I would personally recommend the first on the list, Tom Ball, 330-666-2642 
or 330-867-9800 (no website or email).

Gordie Bird
'62 MGA

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Peter Schauss" <rpschauss@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 10:34 PM
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability

> I tried to order a new fuel pump for my MGB from Moss and found that both
> the standard and the electronic versions are on indefinite backorder.
> People at British Car Specialists told me that Burlen has suspended
> production of these pumps because of failures caused by ethanol in the
> gasoline.  BCS is shipping me a German-built replacement for the SU.  I 
> will
> let you all know how it works out.
>
> Peter Schauss
> 1980 MGB
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  7 10:54:17 2013
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2013 09:44:56 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
Thread-Index: Ac6TjXJwmK2xxF8POkya9FFeic1wmQ==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep, that's it. It was probably 5 years ago when I bought it. I ran it for a
while, but it was not even as reliable as the old unit, which had almost
left me stranded late at night in the middle of nowhere (coast range btwn
Leggett and Westport CA).

on 8/7/13 12:30 AM, Barney Gaylord at barneymg@mgaguru.com wrote:

> Max,
> 
> DId the bad new erplacement points look something like this:
> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/faulty/ft037.htm
> 
> This is a five year old problem that may be still hanging around.
> 
> Barney
> 
> 
> At 08:31 PM 8/6/2013 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>> .... I was just thinking of ordering a solid state since I
>> have had issues with the current unit (a mashup of an oldie and a Moss
>> points replacement). The new points unit was so poorly constructed I swapped
>> in the parts from the ancient unit, but now I understandably don't have an
>> immense amount of faith in it.
> 
> 
>> on 8/6/13 7:34 PM, Peter Schauss at rpschauss@gmail.com wrote:
>> 
>>> I tried to order a new fuel pump for my MGB from Moss and found that both
>>> the standard and the electronic versions are on indefinite backorder.
>>> ....
> 
> 
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  7 10:58:15 2013
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References: <CE27C798.48826%mvheim@sonic.net>
From: Tom Daughdrill <lincman90@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 11:58:00 -0500
To: <Mgs@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[476411F0:01CE938F]
Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I recently got a points type pump from Seven Enterprises with no delay.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 7, 2013, at 11:54 AM, "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net> wrote:

> Yep, that's it. It was probably 5 years ago when I bought it. I ran it for
a
> while, but it was not even as reliable as the old unit, which had almost
> left me stranded late at night in the middle of nowhere (coast range btwn
> Leggett and Westport CA).
>
> on 8/7/13 12:30 AM, Barney Gaylord at barneymg@mgaguru.com wrote:
>
>> Max,
>>
>> DId the bad new erplacement points look something like this:
>> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/faulty/ft037.htm
>>
>> This is a five year old problem that may be still hanging around.
>>
>> Barney
>>
>>
>> At 08:31 PM 8/6/2013 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>>> .... I was just thinking of ordering a solid state since I
>>> have had issues with the current unit (a mashup of an oldie and a Moss
>>> points replacement). The new points unit was so poorly constructed I
swapped
>>> in the parts from the ancient unit, but now I understandably don't have
an
>>> immense amount of faith in it.
>>
>>
>>> on 8/6/13 7:34 PM, Peter Schauss at rpschauss@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> I tried to order a new fuel pump for my MGB from Moss and found that
both
>>>> the standard and the electronic versions are on indefinite backorder.
>>>> ....
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lincman90@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  7 11:26:22 2013
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User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/12.36.0.130206
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2013 10:24:03 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
Thread-Index: Ac6Tkulc+LGoyFFOHE678Bj9w2pVfQ==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

That's good to know. But have you looked at the points, though?

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/7/13 9:58 AM, Tom Daughdrill at lincman90@hotmail.com wrote:

> I recently got a points type pump from Seven Enterprises with no delay.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Aug 7, 2013, at 11:54 AM, "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net> wrote:
> 
>> Yep, that's it. It was probably 5 years ago when I bought it. I ran it for
> a
>> while, but it was not even as reliable as the old unit, which had almost
>> left me stranded late at night in the middle of nowhere (coast range btwn
>> Leggett and Westport CA).
>> 
>> on 8/7/13 12:30 AM, Barney Gaylord at barneymg@mgaguru.com wrote:
>> 
>>> Max,
>>> 
>>> DId the bad new erplacement points look something like this:
>>> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/faulty/ft037.htm
>>> 
>>> This is a five year old problem that may be still hanging around.
>>> 
>>> Barney
>>> 
>>> 
>>> At 08:31 PM 8/6/2013 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>>>> .... I was just thinking of ordering a solid state since I
>>>> have had issues with the current unit (a mashup of an oldie and a Moss
>>>> points replacement). The new points unit was so poorly constructed I
> swapped
>>>> in the parts from the ancient unit, but now I understandably don't have
> an
>>>> immense amount of faith in it.
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> on 8/6/13 7:34 PM, Peter Schauss at rpschauss@gmail.com wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> I tried to order a new fuel pump for my MGB from Moss and found that
> both
>>>>> the standard and the electronic versions are on indefinite backorder.
>>>>> ....
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  7 11:44:34 2013
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2013 13:41:18 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <5201b24e.8420e00a.2c55.ffffb9cc@mx.google.com>
	<D35E8532F1FA4E52AC189A06EBEBEB8B@stargate>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
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I agree with Gordie.  There are guys out there who rebuild fuel 
pumps, and what you end up with is as good as new.  If you do replace 
your pump and your old one was a genuine SU, don't throw it 
away.  The guys who do the rebuilding are usually looking for cores 
and they will give you a few bucks for it.  As for Burlen, I find it 
hard to believe that they can't come up with a pump that can deal 
with ethanol.  The carbs have to deal with ethanol too.  If they 
can't deal with modern fuel, they will have to discontinue almost 
everything they sell!

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 07:36 AM 8/7/2013, gordies garage wrote:
>Here's a link to several fuel pump rebuilders. 
>http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/links.html
>I would personally recommend the first on the list, Tom Ball, 
>330-666-2642 or 330-867-9800 (no website or email).
>
>Gordie Bird
>'62 MGA
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	<CE27C798.48826%mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 10:55:59 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

>>I understandably don't have an
>> immense amount of faith in it.

Isn't that how every MG owner feels about every SU fuel pump?
<Grin>
Rick
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2013 12:11:08 -0600
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
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	<D35E8532F1FA4E52AC189A06EBEBEB8B@stargate>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
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On my '70 I still have my original SU pump.  It is bolted right where it 
was when it quit working 17 years ago and I bypassed it.

The one on the '78 is in the oil pan still...

On 08/07/2013 11:41 AM, Steven Trovato wrote:
> I agree with Gordie.  There are guys out there who rebuild fuel pumps, 
> and what you end up with is as good as new. If you do replace your 
> pump and your old one was a genuine SU, don't throw it away.  The guys 
> who do the rebuilding are usually looking for cores and they will give 
> you a few bucks for it.  As for Burlen, I find it hard to believe that 
> they can't come up with a pump that can deal with ethanol.  The carbs 
> have to deal with ethanol too.  If they can't deal with modern fuel, 
> they will have to discontinue almost everything they sell!
>
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato@optonline.net
>
> At 07:36 AM 8/7/2013, gordies garage wrote:
>> Here's a link to several fuel pump rebuilders. 
>> http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/links.html
>> I would personally recommend the first on the list, Tom Ball, 
>> 330-666-2642 or 330-867-9800 (no website or email).
>>
>> Gordie Bird
>> '62 MGA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  7 14:34:27 2013
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
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All,

Just for info, a midget pump can be used for a stock MGB engine. Soon 
after I bought my present B I discovered that a PO had substituted a 
Midget pump into the car in order to provide clearance for a standard  
group 24 battery.

CR
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2013 14:06:20 -0700
To: mgs@autox.team.net
From: Don <don@napanet.net>
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Subject: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  8 04:03:56 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Peter Schauss" <rpschauss@gmail.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <5201b24e.8420e00a.2c55.ffffb9cc@mx.google.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 10:56:06 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
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It's a bit garbled but the response I got from Burlen is that they have 
supplied 200+ back orders this week and will have cleared them by the end of 
August.  This is following a coil problem last year as well as with 
diaphragms and ethanol more recently, the latter using a new material now. 
Doesn't bode well for the hundreds of thousands of existing pumps out there!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

>I tried to order a new fuel pump for my MGB from Moss and found that both
> the standard and the electronic versions are on indefinite backorder.
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 11:15:48 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net, "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] TD continuing work...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hi Friends,

Just a tiny update today.  I've not been in the garage too much
lately.  Been babysitting our grandson.  Priorities, you see.  :-)

First up today is work on the waterpump.  In this picture, I have just
removed the pulley.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130806_093759.jpg

Here's the pulley, fully cleaned and primered (still wet).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130806_100056.jpg

Here's the pulley, now painted red and ready for installation on the
new waterpump.  In the background of the picture is a new thermostat,
also freshly painted engine color.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130808_104913.jpg

After that work was finished, I decided to remove the distributor for
restoration.  Before removal, I took this picture, just for reference.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130806_100244.jpg

Here is the breaker plate, as removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130807_072401.jpg

It has now been cleaned and the new parts are sitting in their boxes
awaiting installation.  The rest of the distributor has been cleaned,
measured and lubricated.  Here's a look at the distributor, not so
much of a glamour shot but one revealing the numbers.  Its ready for
new points, condenser, rotor and reinstallation.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130807_072413.jpg

And over on the workbench is the stabilizer link, awaiting cleanup and
refinishing.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130807_074341.jpg

And just to show the magnitude of the cleaning needed before the fun,
technical work can begin, here's how things look.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130806_100310.jpg

And that picture of the engine, included above, shows the degree of
MESS that results from this kind of work.  One might find this trivial
but I work in a home garage, and that means there is big risk of
tracking grease, oil and dirt into the house.  That just can't happen
so I must stop work and clean.  Such is life.

regards,

-rick
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	Thu, 08 Aug 2013 11:53:07 -0700 (PDT)
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 13:53:06 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Yet another step forward...
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Hello Friends,

Today I worked the frame a little further forward.  I also finished
the brake master cylinder.  The fluid is clean and clear, but will be
flushed. And I have cleaned most of the gearbox and bell housing in
preparation for paint.  Here are a couple of pictures.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130808_132531.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130808_132631.jpg

Yet to finish is the rest of the gearbox and the passenger side frame.
 I'll them move on to the engine, working down so gravity helps in
grime removal.  The goal is to get everything clean and refinished so
I can pop the head back on and do a compression test.  The cylinder
walls are beautiful so I hope to, 'Diagnose before surgery.'

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 10 12:52:42 2013
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Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 13:49:20 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: wbeech@flash.net
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] HOT!
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> Nice shop,...

Thanks.

> ...what's that little black thing taking up space in the background?

Daily driver; '08 Porsche Cayman

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 10 13:21:44 2013
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Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 12:16:01 -0700
From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
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As for the hundreds of thousands out there now, I'd have to say that 
"most" of them are probably fine in terms of ethanol compatibility and 
the older the better. When I got the '67 redcar ten or twelve years ago, 
it had what appeared to be the original on it. When it died it didn't 
leak - the points just gave out. I had four more in the binand it was 
easier to swap out than rebuild, so I took one from the XJ6 stash and 
threw it in. It's been running fine every day for the past two or three 
years, no prob with ethanol. The two in the XJ don't show any trouble 
other than me not finding a suitable groundand they were new eight years 
ago.

However, we've had a fair amount of customers that have had them 
replaced over the past few yearsthey have been problems, so my guess is 
that at some point Burlen changed materials in the wrong direction. I'm 
glad they're addressing the problem - it's not like classic cars aren't 
their prime market or anything like that. <;^)

Regarding compatibility between cars, Id have to say that it's more a 
matter of plumbing and mounting than anything else.

Glenn

On 8/8/2013 11:00 AM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 10:56:06 +0100
> From: "PaulHunt73"<paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
> To: "Peter Schauss"<rpschauss@gmail.com>,<mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] SU fuel pump availability
> Message-ID: <303D7BDB4CA54EC6B22CB0106366D5A6@paul>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
>
> It's a bit garbled but the response I got from Burlen is that they have
> supplied 200+ back orders this week and will have cleared them by the end of
> August.  This is following a coil problem last year as well as with
> diaphragms and ethanol more recently, the latter using a new material now.
> Doesn't bode well for the hundreds of thousands of existing pumps out there!
>
> PaulH.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 11:28:19 2013
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 19:07:25 +0200
Thread-Index: Ac6YR3+iKtuxmxu5Qpi3KPzhBxnW/A==
Content-Language: nl
	FILETIME=[9422ED60:01CE9847]
Subject: [Mgs] MG's parking problem
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

What a pity of those nice MG's.

 

http://www.linkedin.com/today/post/article/20130812065952-206580-big-idea-so
lves-parking-problem 

 

 

Cheers,

Hans

'71 BGT
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 15:40:56 2013
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 14:35:42 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Flasher unit
Thread-Index: Ac6YbQ+LZ+nVPQxSzkOIR59qsH6auw==
Subject: [Mgs] Flasher unit
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, I give up -- where is the flasher unit located on a Mk.1 MGB? The manual
doesn't give any hints about the physical location, and for once the Moss
catalog doesn't have a handy illustration. If I ever knew, I've forgotten,
and I'm not seeing it up under the dash.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 22:47:35 GMT
To: mvheim@sonic.net
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Flasher unit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On the bulkhead, over passenger's right knee.
It can be cylindrical, like most flashers, or a cube that fits into a holder.
Bob



---------- Original Message ----------
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Flasher unit
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 14:35:42 -0700

OK, I give up -- where is the flasher unit located on a Mk.1 MGB? The manual
doesn't give any hints about the physical location, and for once the Moss
catalog doesn't have a handy illustration. If I ever knew, I've forgotten,
and I'm not seeing it up under the dash.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 01:54:05 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: <mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <20130813.184735.3170.0@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 08:36:07 +0100
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Flasher unit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Almost certainly 3-wire cylindrical on a Mk1 unless it has been replaced 
with a later 2-wire cube or modern electronic.  The third wire on the 
original is not an earth like it is on modern electronic flashers, but is 
used to flash the tell-tales on the dash in conjunction with a flasher 
switch that has an additional set of contacts.  You can use a more recent 
2-pin, or a modern electronic 3-pin, by joining the light-green/yellow and 
light-green/blue wires to the green/red and green/white wires at the bullets 
by the steering column, although the original 3-pin surprisingly doesn't 
seem to be any more expensive than the alternatives.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> On the bulkhead, over passenger's right knee.
> It can be cylindrical, like most flashers, or a cube that fits into a 
> holder.
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <004e01ce9847$955b6d60$c0124820$@planet.nl>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 08:39:18 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG's parking problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Never work in the UK, people would nick or burst the balloons.

----- Original Message ----- 
> http://www.linkedin.com/today/post/article/20130812065952-206580-big-idea-solves-parking-problem
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 12:56:40 -0400
From: Peter Schauss <rpschauss@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] German replacement for an SU fuel pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to everyone who responded to my post about the problems I was having
finding a replacement SU fuel pump.  The German pump which I bought from
British Car Specialists turned out to be made by Hardi.

Installation was straightforward except that the body of the pump, where it
goes through the large rubber grommet in forward bulkhead between the rear
axle and the trunk, was a bit smaller than the SU.  I had to add a couple
of rubber strips to make it fit tightly.  In addition, I had to make a
short jumper to ground the negative terminal because it is on the
end of the pump which sits in the trunk instead of on the pump body and the
existing ground  wire, which is underneath the car would not reach.

The pump came with adapters in the intake and output ports with the the
proper threads to connect to the existing pipe/hose fittings.  It did not
come with the gaskets or o-rings for these fittings, so I had to cut a
couple of gaskets to fit.

The pump seems to work pretty much like the old one except that the
thumping noise while it fills up the float bowls is not as loud.

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 12:17:34 2013
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From: "David F. Darby" <ddarby@centurytel.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOc+-dyRHfMEbs66LzJ54RTPy+orv6HhT3qhMYWt98rNq1kD2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 13:17:24 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine and gearbox clean
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Keep up the good work Rick.

David

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 12:56 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net List; mg-t@autox.team.net; Rui Gigante
Subject: [Mgs] Engine and gearbox clean

Hi Friends,

I haven't written much lately but I have been in the garage.  Included
below are pictures of my TD's engine and gearbox, primered and ready for
red paint.
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 13:31:44 2013
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From: Paul Root <ptrmgb@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 14:30:19 -0500
To: "David F. Darby" <ddarby@centurytel.net>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine and gearbox clean
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Do you suppose if I put my 'B in his garage, he'd take it apart and restore
it?

He does more in a day than I can get done in a month.

On Aug 15, 2013, at 1:17 PM, David F. Darby wrote:

> Keep up the good work Rick.
>
> David
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
> Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 12:56 PM
> To: mgs@autox.team.net List; mg-t@autox.team.net; Rui Gigante
> Subject: [Mgs] Engine and gearbox clean
>
> Hi Friends,
>
> I haven't written much lately but I have been in the garage.  Included
> below are pictures of my TD's engine and gearbox, primered and ready for
> red paint.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 14:13:03 2013
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From: "David F. Darby" <ddarby@centurytel.net>
To: "'Paul Root'" <ptrmgb@gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dyRHfMEbs66LzJ54RTPy+orv6HhT3qhMYWt98rNq1kD2Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<DE9DC15FC64C4716984AAE7BDE2ADC8F@YOURF3E40984A8>
	<2A0ECB2A-2464-45EA-89FB-43E4D5AED448@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 15:09:06 -0500
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Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine and gearbox clean
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul,

He is an inspiration. His efforts have taught me that even if I only have 15
or 20 minutes I can go out and get some small task done, and several
completed small tasks steadily accrue into larger jobs done--but I still
don't have time to photograph them :-)

David

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Root [mailto:ptrmgb@gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 2:30 PM
To: David F. Darby
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine and gearbox clean

Do you suppose if I put my 'B in his garage, he'd take it apart and restore
it? 

He does more in a day than I can get done in a month.
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 15:02:52 2013
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	<2A0ECB2A-2464-45EA-89FB-43E4D5AED448@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 16:02:44 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: Paul Root <ptrmgb@gmail.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Engine and gearbox clean
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

You're too kind.  I just love my hobby.  Retirement is awesome.


On Thu, Aug 15, 2013 at 2:30 PM, Paul Root <ptrmgb@gmail.com> wrote:

> Do you suppose if I put my 'B in his garage, he'd take it apart and restore
> it?
>
> He does more in a day than I can get done in a month.
>
> On Aug 15, 2013, at 1:17 PM, David F. Darby wrote:
>
> > Keep up the good work Rick.
> >
> > David
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> > Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
> > Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 12:56 PM
> > To: mgs@autox.team.net List; mg-t@autox.team.net; Rui Gigante
> > Subject: [Mgs] Engine and gearbox clean
> >
> > Hi Friends,
> >
> > I haven't written much lately but I have been in the garage.  Included
> > below are pictures of my TD's engine and gearbox, primered and ready for
> > red paint.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Mgs@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 16 09:56:00 2013
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 10:54:47 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] front engine mount...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey Friends,

This morning I got the TD's engine off of the floor jack and back resting
on the front motor mount. In the picture you may notice that the mount is
assembled with new bolts.  That's not so much for cosmetics as it is to
replace the stretched and damaged bolts I took out.  Also, the electronic
flash makes the paint look orange-red when in fact, it is a darker generic
red (although not MGB maroon).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130816_102622.jpg

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 14:00:49 2013
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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 14:59:53 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, tr3_diddums@yahoo.com, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] OT: tr3 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the off-topic space.

A friend really needs to sell his TR3. Car is good and price is right. B Contact Peter at:B 
tr3_diddums@yahoo.com

Thanks for the OT space.

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.
_______________________________________________

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From: John Elwood <mgmagnette@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 10:00:18 -0400
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Mgs] Lucas paddle duckbill bat tab knob toggle handle whatever you
 call it... Available seperate?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I could have sworn I've seen just the plastic end of common lucas 60s dash
switches available separately...  And every search term I use comes up with
nothing.  Am I imagining this was ever available?  I busted one on my MG 1100
installing the dash, and I REALLY don't want take the whole dash out again.
-John
_______________________________________________

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From: "gordies garage" <mg_garage@comcast.net>
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References: <069AAA24-2BED-4704-8E27-8C937611A3FF@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 16:07:40 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lucas paddle duckbill bat tab knob toggle handle whatever
 you call it... Available seperate?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I recall a switch, the likes of which you may be describing in my old '67 
BGT.  It was the electric overdrive switch.
Maybe that will help you find it.

Gordie
'62 MGA

--------------------------------------------------
From: "John Elwood" <mgmagnette@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 10:00 AM
To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Lucas paddle duckbill bat tab knob toggle handle whatever you 
call it... Available seperate?

> I could have sworn I've seen just the plastic end of common lucas 60s dash
> switches available separately...  And every search term I use comes up 
> with
> nothing.  Am I imagining this was ever available?  I busted one on my MG 
> 1100
> installing the dash, and I REALLY don't want take the whole dash out 
> again.
> -John
/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net 
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From: Windows Live Team <lfritz82@hotmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 22:05:29 +0000
	FILETIME=[0D0F5D60:01CE9C5F]
Subject: [Mgs] mgb connecting rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hi.   I'm going to build a hot street engine for MGBGT.  I have a new set of
pistons that fit a 1965 to 1970. My question is which connecting rod is better
the earlier diaginal split one or the later horizonal spit one, and can I use
the later 18V rods with these pistons.   Thanks in advance.      Lorne Fritz
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 02:12:32 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "John Elwood" <mgmagnette@aol.com>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <069AAA24-2BED-4704-8E27-8C937611A3FF@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 09:09:43 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lucas paddle duckbill bat tab knob toggle handle whatever
 you call it... Available seperate?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Never seen just that part available, even in a period Lucas catalogue.  I 
somehow caught my MGB overdrive switch getting out one day and broke the 
handle off many years ago, but there was enough of a suitable area to apply 
Araldite to and it's been fine ever since.  Another option might be to 
carefully cut off and drill out the lever of another switch.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I could have sworn I've seen just the plastic end of common lucas 60s dash
> switches available separately...  And every search term I use comes up 
> with
> nothing.  Am I imagining this was ever available?  I busted one on my MG 
> 1100
> installing the dash, and I REALLY don't want take the whole dash out 
> again.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 07:58:48 2013
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 09:25:56 -0400
To: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>, "John Elwood"
	<mgmagnette@aol.com>,"MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barrie Robinson <barrie@look.ca>
References: <069AAA24-2BED-4704-8E27-8C937611A3FF@aol.com>
	<2509EB802AA94566AF3CC4E1CE811292@paul>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lucas paddle duckbill bat tab knob toggle handle whatever
 you call it... Available seperate?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul,

Are you talking about the Lucas 400E catalogue ? I have it and it is 
very useful.  I got perfect copies of the MGB switches from some 
place in Europe.  I think it was European Spares???
They may have the paddle duckbill bat tab knob toggle handled switch 
but unfortunately I cannot find the URL - but will look



At 09:09 AM 19/08/2013 +0100, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>Never seen just that part available, even in a period Lucas 
>catalogue.  I somehow caught my MGB overdrive switch getting out one 
>day and broke the handle off many years ago, but there was enough of 
>a suitable area to apply Araldite to and it's been fine ever 
>since.  Another option might be to carefully cut off and drill out 
>the lever of another switch.
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>I could have sworn I've seen just the plastic end of common lucas 60s dash
>>switches available separately...  And every search term I use comes up with
>>nothing.  Am I imagining this was ever available?  I busted one on my MG 1100
>>installing the dash, and I REALLY don't want take the whole dash out again.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie@look.ca

Regards,
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
MGB GT V8 in concours condition
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.AMFClub.com
www.britcot.com
www.vectisgroup.ca
barrie@look.ca
Barrie, Ontario
705-721-9060 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 16:12:54 2013
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 17:11:53 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: Windows Live Team <lfritz82@hotmail.com>
References: <DUB117-W844E775091D1F8258E0716DA410@phx.gbl>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb connecting rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a good question.  When I built the engine in my B, I used HC 
pistons and the diagonal split rods in a 18V block, with the '67 stock 
cam profile.  If I was putting together a hot street engine, I'd check 
the weight of the two kinds of rods and go with the lighter ones.

CR


On 8/18/2013 5:05 PM, Windows Live Team wrote:
> Hi.   I'm going to build a hot street engine for MGBGT.  I have a new set of
> pistons that fit a 1965 to 1970. My question is which connecting rod is better
> the earlier diaginal split one or the later horizonal spit one, and can I use
> the later 18V rods with these pistons.   Thanks in advance.      Lorne Fritz
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 17:06:50 2013
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 16:05:24 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] mgb connecting rods
Thread-Index: Ac6dMJXyvza9lA6SW0exvD/88mTrqg==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb connecting rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I would expect them to weigh the same, unless the crank changed as well. And
then they would need to be matched to the correct crank.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 8/19/13 3:11 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins@ktc.com wrote:

> This is a good question.  When I built the engine in my B, I used HC
> pistons and the diagonal split rods in a 18V block, with the '67 stock
> cam profile.  If I was putting together a hot street engine, I'd check
> the weight of the two kinds of rods and go with the lighter ones.
> 
> CR
> 
> 
> On 8/18/2013 5:05 PM, Windows Live Team wrote:
>> Hi.   I'm going to build a hot street engine for MGBGT.  I have a new set of
>> pistons that fit a 1965 to 1970. My question is which connecting rod is
>> better
>> the earlier diaginal split one or the later horizonal spit one, and can I use
>> the later 18V rods with these pistons.   Thanks in advance.      Lorne Fritz
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 17:46:17 2013
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 18:43:00 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
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To: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
References: <CE37F2C4.48DC9%mvheim@sonic.net>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb connecting rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hmmm,

   Maybe you should research the subject.

CR
On 8/19/2013 6:05 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> I would expect them to weigh the same, unless the crank changed as well. And
> then they would need to be matched to the correct crank.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
>
> on 8/19/13 3:11 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins@ktc.com wrote:
>
>> This is a good question.  When I built the engine in my B, I used HC
>> pistons and the diagonal split rods in a 18V block, with the '67 stock
>> cam profile.  If I was putting together a hot street engine, I'd check
>> the weight of the two kinds of rods and go with the lighter ones.
>>
>> CR
>>
>>
>> On 8/18/2013 5:05 PM, Windows Live Team wrote:
>>> Hi.   I'm going to build a hot street engine for MGBGT.  I have a new set of
>>> pistons that fit a 1965 to 1970. My question is which connecting rod is
>>> better
>>> the earlier diaginal split one or the later horizonal spit one, and can I use
>>> the later 18V rods with these pistons.   Thanks in advance.      Lorne Fritz
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 17:08:08 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] mgb connecting rods
Thread-Index: Ac6dOVl3sa05c3U4YEmZLkdZFXFAPA==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb connecting rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Ha, I'm not the one building the engine. But it's just a fact that the
rotating assembly needs to be balanced. If you take weight off the
piston/wristpin/rod assembly, you have to balance that by taking weight off
the crankshaft counterweights. Unless you want to just pile weights on the
external balancer and let the crank whip around viciously.

So my guess, given the innate conservatism of the works engineers, would be
that the internal components stayed the same weight throughout the
production run. But, I haven't looked it up.

So my advice to Lorne would be the same as yours -- research these parts
thoroughly to ensure one isn't putting together an unworkable hybrid.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 8/19/13 4:43 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins@ktc.com wrote:

> Hmmm,
> 
>    Maybe you should research the subject.
> 
> CR
> On 8/19/2013 6:05 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>> I would expect them to weigh the same, unless the crank changed as well. And
>> then they would need to be matched to the correct crank.
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> on 8/19/13 3:11 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins@ktc.com wrote:
>> 
>>> This is a good question.  When I built the engine in my B, I used HC
>>> pistons and the diagonal split rods in a 18V block, with the '67 stock
>>> cam profile.  If I was putting together a hot street engine, I'd check
>>> the weight of the two kinds of rods and go with the lighter ones.
>>> 
>>> CR
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 8/18/2013 5:05 PM, Windows Live Team wrote:
>>>> Hi.   I'm going to build a hot street engine for MGBGT.  I have a new set
>>>> of
>>>> pistons that fit a 1965 to 1970. My question is which connecting rod is
>>>> better
>>>> the earlier diaginal split one or the later horizonal spit one, and can I
>>>> use
>>>> the later 18V rods with these pistons.   Thanks in advance.      Lorne
>>>> Fritz
_______________________________________________

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References: <5212AD84.7050004@ktc.com> <CE380178.48DDB%mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 19:10:46 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb connecting rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

for what's it worth, on one B engine I built the piston and rod assemblies
were massively out of balance when the machine shop went to balance them.
Invest in a scale and match the rods and pistons to get all the weights as
close as possible, or send the whole mess out and get it balanced.
Rick


On Mon, Aug 19, 2013 at 5:08 PM, Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net> wrote:

> Ha, I'm not the one building the engine. But it's just a fact that the
> rotating assembly needs to be balanced. If you take weight off the
> piston/wristpin/rod assembly, you have to balance that by taking weight off
> the crankshaft counterweights. Unless you want to just pile weights on the
> external balancer and let the crank whip around viciously.
>
> So my guess, given the innate conservatism of the works engineers, would be
> that the internal components stayed the same weight throughout the
> production run. But, I haven't looked it up.
>
> So my advice to Lorne would be the same as yours -- research these parts
> thoroughly to ensure one isn't putting together an unworkable hybrid.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 20 09:27:12 2013
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Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:20:17 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
References: <5212AD84.7050004@ktc.com> <CE380178.48DDB%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<CACOF-TrovhTuw80suNe45+CpQCe_5ytkuQmjtCLuRD8_OQj6Zw@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mgb connecting rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

When I built the last one I took the new overbore pistons, old rods, 
block, crank & flywheel  to a machine shop in south San Antonio that had 
a good rep in the performance fraternity of south TX. Those guys knew 
just what I wanted.  I was surprised that the rods didn't need 
re-sizing.  The rods were well matched in weights; after all, they were 
a set in a apparently factory-built 18GB engine.  So I got the block 
boiled out and bored (didn't need line-boring) to match the pistons, new 
cam bearings, re-surface the flywheel and "balance the mess." :-) I made 
several trips down there during this process, a 150 mile round trip, 
with stop-offs for Tex-Mex food, etc.  Took everything home and started 
putting it all together.  I had a great time during this project and it 
worked out well.

BTW, I got most of my parts from George Merryweather of Classic 
Restorations, a Moss Motors drop shipper.  He had great prices!   I knew 
him from NAMGBR, met him at the annual MG GoF at Salado, TX. Anybody 
remember him?  I wonder how he's getting along.

CR
On 8/19/2013 9:10 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> for what's it worth, on one B engine I built the piston and rod assemblies
> were massively out of balance when the machine shop went to balance them.
> Invest in a scale and match the rods and pistons to get all the weights as
> close as possible, or send the whole mess out and get it balanced.
> Rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 12:21:47 2013
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 11:02:47 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Yay Moss
Thread-Index: Ac6emKRb9wS0UujUR0W6mn5PGHjR1g==
Subject: [Mgs] Yay Moss
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

In response to some uncharacteristic nagging from my wife (to the effect
that the MG's lights were too dim, and it was unsafe to drive at night), I
invested in a major lighting upgrade, including a headlight relay kit, H4
halogen headlights, and a complete set of LED exterior lamps. But one
component, the last to be installed, turned out to be DOA out of the box --
the electronic flasher unit. When I called Moss about it, they cheerfully
said they would send out a replacement immediately, no return required. I
thought that was jolly decent of them. So here's a public shout-out for
their customer service.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 13:05:30 -0600
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References: <E1VC7lb-0003Mj-Q7@eta.look.ca>
Cc: mgb-v8@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Rear bumper for 1970 car
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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There is a '70 rear bumper set on ebay right now.  No bids, $25 + $5 
shipping.

--
Andrew

On 08/21/2013 06:43 AM, Barrie Robinson wrote:
> Folks,
>
> A tree came up and damaged the back of my MGB GT and I am looking for 
> a replacement 1970 rear bumper (Moss Motors part number 454-390) which 
> is the split bumper style.  I will get it re-chromed so condition is 
> not important except structurally correct.  Anyone have one they can 
> let me have?
>
> Regards,
> Barrie
>
> Barrie Robinson
> MGB GT V8 in concours condition (now dinged!)
> Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
> www.AMFClub.com
> www.britcot.com
> www.vectisgroup.ca
> barrie@look.ca
> Barrie, Ontario
> 705-721-9060 _______________________________________________
>
> Mgb-v8@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgb-v8/lundgren@byu.net
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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 03:56:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Yay Moss
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Like.

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA


________________________________
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2013 2:02 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Yay Moss
 

In response to
some uncharacteristic nagging from my wife (to the effect
that the MG's lights
were too dim, and it was unsafe to drive at night), I
invested in a major
lighting upgrade, including a headlight relay kit, H4
halogen headlights, and
a complete set of LED exterior lamps. But one
component, the last to be
installed, turned out to be DOA out of the box --
the electronic flasher unit.
When I called Moss about it, they cheerfully
said they would send out a
replacement immediately, no return required. I
thought that was jolly decent
of them. So here's a public shout-out for
their customer service.


--

Max
Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one
with chrome wires
_______________________________________________
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 23 12:20:41 2013
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Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 13:15:53 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
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Hi Friends,

Back in the garage for a bitB today.

You might remember that my '53 TD suffered a stuck valve and broken pushrod. Well,B todayB I may have found the cause - or at least, a related problem: a blocked, or at least restricted, oil feed line to the top end. After I cleaned the exterior of the pipe and banjos, I sprayed brake cleaner (degreaser) into the line ... and nothing came out the other end! On the second attempt, a dribble turned into a weak black flow. With continued work, the line is now clean and clear.

I can't swear that the stuck valve was related to oil starvation but I can testify that little-to-no oil could have gotten through that line before I cleaned it out.B 

The line is now clean, inside and out, and sits in storage with new copper washers and fresh banjo bolts, ready to be reinstalled. I'm now glad that I bought the new oil flex line and pipe to the OP gauge, as the old ones may also be full of crud.

-rick

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 05:58:19 2013
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What condition are the rocker arm bushings and shaft in?

CR
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 15:54:29 2013
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To: "Mgs@autox.team.net" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Riviera Blue?
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A local club member asked about modern codes for this paint color.
Any help?

Thanks,
mjb.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 16:03:43 2013
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From: John Elwood <mgmagnette@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 17:57:54 -0400
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Riviera Blue?
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The solid or metallic version?  Metallic I think was MGC only color.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 09:07:31 2013
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Riviera Blue?
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On 8/24/2013 4:54 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> A local club member asked about modern codes for this paint color.
> Any help? 

SORRY to do this Mark, but Google IS your friend <G>:

About 26,100,000 results(0.41 seconds)
Did you mean: */riviera/* blue paint 
<https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-a&hs=eMd&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&nfpr=1&biw=1152&bih=622&q=riviera+blue+paint&spell=1&sa=X&ei=mBwaUu7rIqW42AWCjoGgCw&ved=0CCgQBSgA> 


2nd hit has the code of:
<Q>
Buy Riveria /Blue/ BLBU44 Touch Up /Paint/ for Your 1964 MG All Models.
</Q>

Ed
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 09:24:15 2013
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From: "David Councill" <dcouncill@karamursel.org>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <52192B78.8090507@bradakis.com> <521A1D7D.1000707@justbrits.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 08:19:26 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Riviera Blue?
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To add to this (I also used google although I used a few additional keywords
to find this exact page), I have always used Paul Tegler's site for paint
codes. This one is for MGBs but he also has a Triumph one as well. Maybe I
should have bookmarked this page:

http://www.teglerizer.com/mgcolors/

Just search the page for Riviera blue, about half way down. It has several
manufacturer paint codes listed. A little further down, in the green
section, is a picture of my 67BGT for an example of british racing green,
that I sent to Paul about 10 years or so ago when he was making this web
page.

David Councill
64 B (flame red)
67 BGT (british racing green)
72 B (black tulip)

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of " Just Brits " Shop
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:07 AM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Riviera Blue?

On 8/24/2013 4:54 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> A local club member asked about modern codes for this paint color.
> Any help? 

SORRY to do this Mark, but Google IS your friend <G>:

About 26,100,000 results(0.41 seconds)
Did you mean: */riviera/* blue paint 
<https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-a&hs=eMd&rls=org.mozilla:en-US
:official&nfpr=1&biw=1152&bih=622&q=riviera+blue+paint&spell=1&sa=X&ei=mBwaU
u7rIqW42AWCjoGgCw&ved=0CCgQBSgA> 


2nd hit has the code of:
<Q>
Buy Riveria /Blue/ BLBU44 Touch Up /Paint/ for Your 1964 MG All Models.
</Q>

Ed
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 26 02:05:02 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>, <Mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <52192B78.8090507@bradakis.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 09:01:08 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Riviera Blue?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

According to Clausager:  Riviera Blue was only available in Metallic finish.
It was a standard colour on the 1968 MGC GT and an optional colour on the 1968
MGB GT.  The BL/BMC code is BU47, Ault & Wibourg/Berger/Gipgloss code is
26544M, and the ICI code is 3005M.  There are no codes for any of the US
manufacturers.

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----
>A local club member asked about modern codes for this paint color.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 26 10:11:00 2013
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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 11:10:23 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <52192B78.8090507@bradakis.com>
	<9B516BEA1F094481A4EAD8C5E2792AC8@paul>
Subject: [Mgs] Iris Blue?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

There was a guy in Alamo MG Club who had a nicely restored MGA.  He had 
it painted Iris Blue, an MGB color.  When someone pointed out that it 
was a B color he said he didn't care; he liked it.  I looked it up 
though.  Seems like it was shared by A&B from '59 - '65. My '69 B was 
Iris Blue when I bought it but it was an over-spray.

CR
On 8/26/2013 3:01 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> According to Clausager:  Riviera Blue was only available in Metallic finish.
> It was a standard colour on the 1968 MGC GT and an optional colour on the 1968
> MGB GT.  The BL/BMC code is BU47, Ault & Wibourg/Berger/Gipgloss code is
> 26544M, and the ICI code is 3005M.  There are no codes for any of the US
> manufacturers.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> A local club member asked about modern codes for this paint color.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 26 11:50:27 2013
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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 10:49:48 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
Thread-Index: AQIwBSIutbauTKAvkFugX5k8E3RZrZjet9KQgAZHOVQ=
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a preliminary evaluation of the lighting mods, based on a short night
run.

Headlamps
Were: standard sealed beam on factory circuit
Now: Lucas H4 Halogen on relay circuit
Verdict: previously described as "dim & yellow", now bright white. Massive
improvement.

Taillamps, brake lights, rear turn signals
Were: standard bulbs
Now: Moss red LEDs
Verdict: 2X, possibly 3X brighter

Front turn signals (white on my '66 B)
Were: standard bulbs
Now: Moss white LEDs
Verdict: insanely brighter, like flashing mini-headlights

And here's what went wrong:

Electronic flasher unit
First unit did not work out of the box.
Neither did the 2nd unit, until I tried reversing the polarity. This was not
mentioned in any instructions. My car was originally positive ground,
converted to negative ground, so I don't know why this should be necessary
-- the 3-prong flasher that this was specified as a replacement for was only
used on positive ground cars, but the LED lamp kit can only be used on
converted cars, so this should have been accounted for. (I'm pretty sure I
tried reversing the polarity of the first unit, so I think it really was
DOA).

Front marker lamps
I could not use the LEDs supplied. These replace the very small round bulbs,
but the LED is much longer -- not only is the "bulb" section about twice as
long, but the socket section is also longer (I have a photo comparing the
two, if you're interested). The result is that the lens immediately contacts
the tip of the bulb, so that as you tighten the lens-securing screws, it
depresses the bulb in the socket against the spring, until the bulb loses
contact. If you try this with the lights turned on, you can watch the bulb
go out as you tighten the screws. I can't see how they ever successfully
tested this application. Maybe they only tested it on later cars with the
slightly different lamp location. However, this is hardly a critical
lighting application -- they are scarcely ever used without the headlights.

Hope this is helpful.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 8/22/13 10:58 AM, Ron King at ronking@sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Please let me/us know if there's improvement; have been considering this
> changeout myself.
> 
> Ron King
> '71MGB
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 11:03 AM
> To: MG List
> Subject: [Mgs] Yay Moss
> 
> In response to some uncharacteristic nagging from my wife (to the effect
> that the MG's lights were too dim, and it was unsafe to drive at night), I
> invested in a major lighting upgrade, including a headlight relay kit, H4
> halogen headlights, and a complete set of LED exterior lamps. But one
> component, the last to be installed, turned out to be DOA out of the box --
> the electronic flasher unit. When I called Moss about it, they cheerfully
> said they would send out a replacement immediately, no return required. I
> thought that was jolly decent of them. So here's a public shout-out for
> their customer service.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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	<CE40E34C.490EC%mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 13:20:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Really good feedback, Max....

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG
List <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 1:49 PM
Subject: Re:
[Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
 

Here's a preliminary evaluation of
the lighting mods, based on a short night
run.

Headlamps
Were: standard
sealed beam on factory circuit
Now: Lucas H4 Halogen on relay circuit
Verdict:
previously described as "dim & yellow", now bright white. Massive
improvement.
Taillamps, brake lights, rear turn signals
Were: standard bulbs
Now: Moss red
LEDs
Verdict: 2X, possibly 3X brighter

Front turn signals (white on my '66 B)
Were: standard bulbs
Now: Moss white LEDs
Verdict: insanely brighter, like
flashing mini-headlights

And here's what went wrong:

Electronic flasher unit
First unit did not work out of the box.
Neither did the 2nd unit, until I
tried reversing the polarity. This was not
mentioned in any instructions. My
car was originally positive ground,
converted to negative ground, so I don't
know why this should be necessary
-- the 3-prong flasher that this was
specified as a replacement for was only
used on positive ground cars, but the
LED lamp kit can only be used on
converted cars, so this should have been
accounted for. (I'm pretty sure I
tried reversing the polarity of the first
unit, so I think it really was
DOA).

Front marker lamps
I could not use the
LEDs supplied. These replace the very small round bulbs,
but the LED is much
longer -- not only is the "bulb" section about twice as
long, but the socket
section is also longer (I have a photo comparing the
two, if you're
interested). The result is that the lens immediately contacts
the tip of the
bulb, so that as you tighten the lens-securing screws, it
depresses the bulb
in the socket against the spring, until the bulb loses
contact. If you try
this with the lights turned on, you can watch the bulb
go out as you tighten
the screws. I can't see how they ever successfully
tested this application.
Maybe they only tested it on later cars with the
slightly different lamp
location. However, this is hardly a critical
lighting application -- they are
scarcely ever used without the headlights.

Hope this is helpful.

--

Max
Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one
with chrome wires



on 8/22/13 10:58 AM, Ron King at ronking@sbcglobal.net
wrote:

> Please let me/us know if there's improvement; have been considering
this
> changeout myself.
> 
> Ron King
> '71MGB
> 
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Wednesday,
August 21, 2013 11:03 AM
> To: MG List
> Subject: [Mgs] Yay Moss
> 
> In
response to some uncharacteristic nagging from my wife (to the effect
> that
the MG's lights were too dim, and it was unsafe to drive at night), I
>
invested in a major lighting upgrade, including a headlight relay kit, H4
>
halogen headlights, and a complete set of LED exterior lamps. But one
>
component, the last to be installed, turned out to be DOA out of the box --
>
the electronic flasher unit. When I called Moss about it, they cheerfully
>
said they would send out a replacement immediately, no return required. I
>
thought that was jolly decent of them. So here's a public shout-out for
>
their customer service.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If
you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Donate:
Archive:
Unsubscribe:
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	<9B516BEA1F094481A4EAD8C5E2792AC8@paul>
From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 20:44:06 -0400
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: "<Mgs@autox.team.net>" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Riviera Blue?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a Martin Senour (NAPA) code for BU-44 Riviera Blue as *-20564. The
asterisk is a prefix for type of paint. This should cross reference to the
major manufacturers. I know PPG has extensive listings. This formula was not a
metallic. (I bought it once for my Riv Blue Sprite.)

Sent via iPad
Jim Juhas

On Aug 26, 2013, at 4:01 AM, "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com> wrote:

> According to Clausager:  Riviera Blue was only available in Metallic
finish.
> It was a standard colour on the 1968 MGC GT and an optional colour on the
1968
> MGB GT.  The BL/BMC code is BU47, Ault & Wibourg/Berger/Gipgloss code is
> 26544M, and the ICI code is 3005M.  There are no codes for any of the US
> manufacturers.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> A local club member asked about modern codes for this paint color.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 20:42:58 -0700
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Alternator? problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

We have a '71 MGB which is having charging problems, I think. The ignition
(red) light on the dashboard only goes out (well, it goes very dim) when
cruising on the freeway.

Is there anything other than the alternator that I should be looking at?
The battery seems to be holding its charge (and I just put in a new battery
due to a misunderstanding).

The alternator appears to have 5 terminals, but only 3 connected. It looks
like the picture in this pdf file:
http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/130-100.pdf

The Moss replacement describes connecting only 2 terminals (see this note:
http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/540-280.pdf) , so I am a
little confused about what I have. It looks like 2 of the terminals are
both connected with heavy gauge brown wire, so it would not be unreasonable
to assume a PO has made a redundant connection.

If it is the alternator, should I just replace the whole thing or is there
a likelihood that the diode pack or brushes have failed? As I mentioned, it
does appear that we are getting some current out of it -- unless there is
some other mechanism that could cause the ignition light to be on?

Simon
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <CAEUYfyOQR5sORgbNEL43Tv254p9E8RA8CYPr+K+62JmdVmKWxA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 23:48:41 -0400
From: "P. Chast" <pchastnow@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Opera Mail/12.16 (Win32)
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alternator? problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bad Belts?

On Mon, 26 Aug 2013 23:42:58 -0400, Simon Matthews  
<simon.d.matthews@gmail.com> wrote:

> We have a '71 MGB which is having charging problems, I think. The  
> ignition
> (red) light on the dashboard only goes out (well, it goes very dim) when
> cruising on the freeway.
>
> Is there anything other than the alternator that I should be looking at?
> The battery seems to be holding its charge (and I just put in a new  
> battery
> due to a misunderstanding).
>
> The alternator appears to have 5 terminals, but only 3 connected. It  
> looks
> like the picture in this pdf file:
> http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/130-100.pdf
>
> The Moss replacement describes connecting only 2 terminals (see this  
> note:
> http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/540-280.pdf) , so I am a
> little confused about what I have. It looks like 2 of the terminals are
> both connected with heavy gauge brown wire, so it would not be  
> unreasonable
> to assume a PO has made a redundant connection.
>
> If it is the alternator, should I just replace the whole thing or is  
> there
> a likelihood that the diode pack or brushes have failed? As I mentioned,  
> it
> does appear that we are getting some current out of it -- unless there is
> some other mechanism that could cause the ignition light to be on?
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:  
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchastnow@gmail.com


-- 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 01:46:19 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>, "MGS" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAEUYfyOQR5sORgbNEL43Tv254p9E8RA8CYPr+K+62JmdVmKWxA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 08:37:16 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alternator? problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does it glow more brightly with the headlights on?  That is an indication of 
bad alternator diodes or bad connections.

The first thing you should do is to measure the system voltage on the brown 
wire at the fusebox, with respect to earth.  Ignition off should normally be 
about 12.8v (unless the engine has only just been turned off when it will 
probably be higher).  Ignition on will drop a couple of tenths.  Engine 
started and running at about 2k rpm should be about 14.5v.  As you start 
turning things on it will drop, but with headlights, heater fan, stop lights 
etc. all switched on it should still be above 12.8v.

If below that measure the voltage on the output wire of the alternator, a 
thick brown, under the same conditions.  If that is also below then the 
alternator is faulty.  If clearly above what you measured on the fusebox 
brown then there are one or more bad connections between those two points.

The connections between the two brown wires and the battery cable on the 
solenoid stud is a candidate for that, remove the battery earth strap for 
safety before tackling these.  Also measure the voltage on the brown and 
white wires at the ignition switch and its multi-plug connections.  Good 
voltage on a brown but lower voltage on a white points to the ignition 
switch.

The first link shows a late model 3-terminal alternator, although the two 
large spades are linked together and are both output spades.  The 
standard-sized terminal is the warning light.  The other two terminals were 
never used on MGBs.  MGBs *did* have five (69 to 71) and four (68) terminal 
alternators with two plugs, and the second link, left-hand image shows the 
two-plug, five terminal arrangement that a 71 would have had originally.  It 
depends on what you have now as to what you have to do, if you have the 
three spades in a row, two large and one small like the second link, image 
on the right, then the mod has already been done.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> We have a '71 MGB which is having charging problems, I think. The ignition
> (red) light on the dashboard only goes out (well, it goes very dim) when
> cruising on the freeway.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 05:41:42 2013
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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Iris Blue?
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<< On 8/26/2013 11:10 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> I looked it up though.  Seems like it was shared by A&B from '59 - 
> '65. My '69 B was Iris Blue when I bought it but it was an 
> over-spray. >>

Didn't look far enough, Charlie <G> ! ! !  IIRC, '59 Frogeye and just 
so happens I know a chap than did a 100 point or Gold Level ground-up 
resto on one <G> ! !

Ed
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From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 07:51:38 -0400
To: Just Brits Shop <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Iris Blue?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Same code, but called Speedwell Blue on the Sprite.

Sent via iPad
Jim Juhas

On Aug 27, 2013, at 7:39 AM, "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
wrote:

> << On 8/26/2013 11:10 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>> I looked it up though.  Seems like it was shared by A&B from '59 -
>> '65. My '69 B was Iris Blue when I bought it but it was an
>> over-spray. >>
>
> Didn't look far enough, Charlie <G> ! ! !  IIRC, '59 Frogeye and just
> so happens I know a chap than did a 100 point or Gold Level ground-up
> resto on one <G> ! !
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/james.f.juhas@snet.net
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Iris Blue?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 8/27/2013 6:51 AM, Jim Juhas wrote:
> Same code, but called Speedwell Blue on the Sprite.  >>
Speedwell is it's own, Blue <G>, AFAIK.  Paints are different ! !

Ed
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 10:31:31 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
Thread-Index: Ac6jS0Snoz22dSlzMESYJyimpM3Uqg==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
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on 8/27/13 12:49 AM, PaulHunt73 at paulhunt73@virginmedia.com wrote:

> The first thing to check is if disconnection of a corner stops the
> indicators flashing as it should, or whether the remaining lamp flashes on
> regardless, as I suspect it will.  This is a safety hazard, you will never
> know if one of the corners isn't flashing for any reason.  The fact that
> original flashers stopped flashing, and modern flashers start going at
> double-speed if one corner is out, is a deliberate safety feature.
> Typically LED flashers have to have a load resistor to be able to use the
> correct type of flasher unit, but even then the safety feature is only
> monitoring the load resistor.  As long as that is still connected both
> corners could be out and you would never know, till someone tail-ends you!
> Electronic flashers that don't need a load resistor have no safety feature
> from what I have seen so far, and this seems to include OEM usage as well as
> I nearly rear-ended a Range Rover that suddenly turned in front of me
> 'without warning', only for me to see his side flasher going as he turned.

It seems to me that the rate of flashing may have changed. I will check
this.

I don't think it's true that "you would never know" -- I often notice my
turn signal lamps reflecting off the bumper of the vehicle in front, or in
back when pulling out of a parallel parking spot. And regardless of "safety
features", I observe plenty of contemporary cars driving around with
burnt-out or disconnected lamps -- it's more a matter of driver awareness.
Some people pay attention to these things, and some are oblivious (and some
wouldn't know a turn signal stalk from a flugelhorn).

> 
> I'd also be concerned about tail lights being 2-3 times brighter, the
> reduction in visibility of following drivers at night in the rain would be
> considerable.  

Not at all. The comparison was to "dim". The modern cars you see on the road
with arrays of 12 or 18 LEDs are enormously brighter (and I have noticed
this problem with some of them -- they even cause purple spots in one's
vision). This is still a single-point light source, distorted and diffused
by a sharply-pointed lens.

> The other significant factor is whether there is enough
> differentiation between tail and stop lights to alert a following driver if
> they don't happen to be looking directly at the back of the car at the time.
> Some LED lights I've seen have very little differentiation.

This does not seem to be a problem. The stop lamp seems to be extremely
noticeable. This is probably the greatest single improvement.

I probably should have pointed out that all the bulbs I replaced were pretty
aged. I have a habit of dipping into my stock of used bulbs when one fails,
rather than buying new replacements. So it is possible, even likely, that
none of these bulbs were manufactured in this century. Perhaps the
difference would not have been so dramatic compared to new stock
incandescent bulbs.


> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> Here's a preliminary evaluation of the lighting mods, based on a short
>> night
>> run.
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'PaulHunt73'" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>, "'Simon Matthews'"
	<simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>, "'MGS'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
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	<533CA74FFAD74676A21849AF627F1496@paul>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 19:49:47 +0200
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alternator? problems
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I had the same issue some years ago.
It started with very dim battery warning light.
After that the battery was empty when the car was not ran for a week or so.
I got fed up with this and took an amp meter and measured, if there was any
current running from the batteries when the ignition was turned off.
And yes - there was some 10 milli amps running all time.
The cause?
A diode in the alternator was leaky.

As the alternator still was the original one I took it to the local car
electrics shop.
They installed a new diode pack, new brushes and brush ring, which was worn
out as well.
They also can verify, if new bearings are needed as well.
The unit is apart anyway, so replacing these won't cost much extra.

Mine never failed again and reliability always is important for such car
parts I think.

Cheers,
Hans
71 BGT

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens
PaulHunt73
Verzonden: dinsdag 27 augustus 2013 9:37
Aan: Simon Matthews; MGS
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Alternator? problems

Does it glow more brightly with the headlights on?  That is an indication of
bad alternator diodes or bad connections.

The first thing you should do is to measure the system voltage on the brown
wire at the fusebox, with respect to earth.  Ignition off should normally be
about 12.8v (unless the engine has only just been turned off when it will
probably be higher).  Ignition on will drop a couple of tenths.  Engine
started and running at about 2k rpm should be about 14.5v.  As you start
turning things on it will drop, but with headlights, heater fan, stop lights
etc. all switched on it should still be above 12.8v.

If below that measure the voltage on the output wire of the alternator, a
thick brown, under the same conditions.  If that is also below then the
alternator is faulty.  If clearly above what you measured on the fusebox
brown then there are one or more bad connections between those two points.

The connections between the two brown wires and the battery cable on the
solenoid stud is a candidate for that, remove the battery earth strap for
safety before tackling these.  Also measure the voltage on the brown and
white wires at the ignition switch and its multi-plug connections.  Good
voltage on a brown but lower voltage on a white points to the ignition
switch.

The first link shows a late model 3-terminal alternator, although the two
large spades are linked together and are both output spades.  The
standard-sized terminal is the warning light.  The other two terminals were
never used on MGBs.  MGBs *did* have five (69 to 71) and four (68) terminal
alternators with two plugs, and the second link, left-hand image shows the
two-plug, five terminal arrangement that a 71 would have had originally.  It
depends on what you have now as to what you have to do, if you have the
three spades in a row, two large and one small like the second link, image
on the right, then the mod has already been done.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> We have a '71 MGB which is having charging problems, I think. The 
> ignition
> (red) light on the dashboard only goes out (well, it goes very dim) 
> when cruising on the freeway.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 12:07:54 2013
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 13:06:21 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
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<< On 8/26/2013 12:49 PM, Max Heim wrote:

Front marker lamps

I could not use the LEDs supplied. These replace the very small round bulbs,
but the LED is much longer -- not only is the "bulb" section about twice as
long, but the socket section is also longer .... >>

Max, etal <G>:

I have NOT check the o/l catalog, but I find it hard to believe that they are NOT
mark "For 'beehive lenses only' ?  ! ? !  [as fitted to Frogeyes, Sprite Mk. II,
Midget Mk. I, & ALL Austin-Healeys except BJ-8 Mk. III Phase II]..

Perhaps MJB could pop-in here and advise on Triumph uses, if any ? ! ?

Perhaps Mr. Kelvin Dodds could pop-in here and advise on Total Uses or tell us if
I have covered applications correctly <VBG> ? ! ?

Ed
Please visit MY site at:				www.justbrits.com
'63 A-H BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing ILL STD. plates     AH BJ 7 )
		[front CLEAR beehive lenses]
'73 Black Tulip MGB (Murial wearing ILL STD. plates CINS73B )
		[ canNOT use beehives]
'70 Black El Camino wearing ILL STD. plates 7 AH BJ 't')
		[canNOT use beehives] <VBG> !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:					www.justbrits.com
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 12:36:56 2013
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 11:31:34 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
Thread-Index: Ac6jU6g1MHcxo+GEYEacMNgHHzP+mg==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
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They are part #170-905, listed in the MGB catalog as "bulb, front side
lamp", replacing a #57 bulb. But they are far too long, at least for an
original Mk.1 socket and lens. I notice Moss now only sells a replacement
lamp unit, which they say uses different mounting holes -- I suspect it may
also be different in other respects (in this case, depth).

Photo comparison here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mvheim/9607011135/

Note how even the socket section is slightly longer. The bulb part is not
even close.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 8/27/13 11:06 AM, shop@justbrits.com at shop@justbrits.com wrote:

> << On 8/26/2013 12:49 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> 
> Front marker lamps
> 
> I could not use the LEDs supplied. These replace the very small round bulbs,
> but the LED is much longer -- not only is the "bulb" section about twice as
> long, but the socket section is also longer .... >>
> 
> Max, etal <G>:
> 
> I have NOT check the o/l catalog, but I find it hard to believe that they are
> NOT
> mark "For 'beehive lenses only' ?  ! ? !  [as fitted to Frogeyes, Sprite Mk.
> II,
> Midget Mk. I, & ALL Austin-Healeys except BJ-8 Mk. III Phase II]..
> 
> Perhaps MJB could pop-in here and advise on Triumph uses, if any ? ! ?
> 
> Perhaps Mr. Kelvin Dodds could pop-in here and advise on Total Uses or tell us
> if
> I have covered applications correctly <VBG> ? ! ?
> 
> Ed
> Please visit MY site at:    www.justbrits.com
> '63 A-H BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing ILL STD. plates     AH BJ 7 )
> [front CLEAR beehive lenses]
> '73 Black Tulip MGB (Murial wearing ILL STD. plates CINS73B )
> [ canNOT use beehives]
> '70 Black El Camino wearing ILL STD. plates 7 AH BJ 't')
> [canNOT use beehives] <VBG> !
> 
> Ed
> Please visit MY site at:     www.justbrits.com
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 12:50:59 2013
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 11:45:33 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
Thread-Index: Ac6jU6g1MHcxo+GEYEacMNgHHzP+mgAAfQWf
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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One more factor I should probably mention: the front marker lamps are
supposed to have thick foam gaskets. Mine were totally decayed, so I cut new
cork gaskets, that are pretty thick themselves, and not very compressible.
But I don't think it can just be an issue with missing gaskets, because the
lens contacts the bulb before one even get the threads started on the
screws. If the gasket were supposed to hold the lens away from the bulb, I
would need longer screws.

on 8/27/13 11:31 AM, Max Heim at mvheim@sonic.net wrote:

> They are part #170-905, listed in the MGB catalog as "bulb, front side
> lamp", replacing a #57 bulb. But they are far too long, at least for an
> original Mk.1 socket and lens. I notice Moss now only sells a replacement
> lamp unit, which they say uses different mounting holes -- I suspect it may
> also be different in other respects (in this case, depth).
> 
> Photo comparison here:
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/mvheim/9607011135/
> 
> Note how even the socket section is slightly longer. The bulb part is not
> even close.
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> 
> 
> on 8/27/13 11:06 AM, shop@justbrits.com at shop@justbrits.com wrote:
> 
>> << On 8/26/2013 12:49 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>> 
>> Front marker lamps
>> 
>> I could not use the LEDs supplied. These replace the very small round bulbs,
>> but the LED is much longer -- not only is the "bulb" section about twice as
>> long, but the socket section is also longer .... >>
>> 
>> Max, etal <G>:
>> 
>> I have NOT check the o/l catalog, but I find it hard to believe that they are
>> NOT
>> mark "For 'beehive lenses only' ?  ! ? !  [as fitted to Frogeyes, Sprite Mk.
>> II,
>> Midget Mk. I, & ALL Austin-Healeys except BJ-8 Mk. III Phase II]..
>> 
>> Perhaps MJB could pop-in here and advise on Triumph uses, if any ? ! ?
>> 
>> Perhaps Mr. Kelvin Dodds could pop-in here and advise on Total Uses or tell
>> us
>> if
>> I have covered applications correctly <VBG> ? ! ?
>> 
>> Ed
>> Please visit MY site at:    www.justbrits.com
>> '63 A-H BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing ILL STD. plates     AH BJ 7 )
>> [front CLEAR beehive lenses]
>> '73 Black Tulip MGB (Murial wearing ILL STD. plates CINS73B )
>> [ canNOT use beehives]
>> '70 Black El Camino wearing ILL STD. plates 7 AH BJ 't')
>> [canNOT use beehives] <VBG> !
>> 
>> Ed
>> Please visit MY site at:     www.justbrits.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 01:43:23 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CE4241DD.49177%mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 08:24:56 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On a different tack to bulbs:  The gasket is there to provide a seal against 
water ingress, and there is another one behind the lamp unit against the 
body.  I don't know how thick the originals were, but when I replaced my 
front parking lights as soon as I started fitting the lenses and chrome 
surround it was obvious that the edge of the chrome was going to dig in to 
my new paint.  I had to pre-fit a nut to each stud to space them out, which 
needed three gaskets on the back to fill the gap.  I've seen the car 
featured on the front of Clausager's book at a show and the edges of his 
chrome were dug into the paint as well, so it wasn't just mine.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> One more factor I should probably mention: the front marker lamps are
> supposed to have thick foam gaskets. 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 11:13:23 2013
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 10:09:43 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
Thread-Index: Ac6kEWNv1xVUFAhflUyp9J/t3mg2/A==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ah, mine didn't have any trace of the body gasket. There is a significant
gap around the perimeter of the lamp base, so that you can see right into
the wheel well, so it makes sense there should be some kind of gasket. It's
a little hard to see how it would have been secured, though.

Digging into the paint is the least of my worries, on this car. It seems to
me that the lens gasket also serves to space the frame away from the body,
although perhaps not enough.

on 8/28/13 12:24 AM, PaulHunt73 at paulhunt73@virginmedia.com wrote:

> On a different tack to bulbs:  The gasket is there to provide a seal against
> water ingress, and there is another one behind the lamp unit against the
> body.  I don't know how thick the originals were, but when I replaced my
> front parking lights as soon as I started fitting the lenses and chrome
> surround it was obvious that the edge of the chrome was going to dig in to
> my new paint.  I had to pre-fit a nut to each stud to space them out, which
> needed three gaskets on the back to fill the gap.  I've seen the car
> featured on the front of Clausager's book at a show and the edges of his
> chrome were dug into the paint as well, so it wasn't just mine.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> One more factor I should probably mention: the front marker lamps are
>> supposed to have thick foam gaskets.
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 01:40:37 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CE437CE7.491DE%mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 08:14:58 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Yay Moss - lighting upgrade report
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

164-750 here 
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29075#14

It's clamped between the two when the fixing nuts are tightened, and 
prevents muck coming from behind the lamp.  Both gaskets will tend to space 
the chrome surround away from the body, but the foam is highly compressible 
so the difference with and without is pretty marginal.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Ah, mine didn't have any trace of the body gasket. There is a significant
> gap around the perimeter of the lamp base, so that you can see right into
> the wheel well, so it makes sense there should be some kind of gasket. 
> It's
> a little hard to see how it would have been secured, though.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 12:39:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pete Groh <pete_groh@yahoo.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Lost keys, source for key code information
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

For car owner who loss their car keys,
or used car owners with no keys,
I what
to share the information below. Very quick service from BHMC.

 Sent: Tuesday,
August 27, 2013 2:56 PM
Subject: RE: 1975 MG - cost and source for key code
number - Suggestion
Pete - Looks like the heritage guys are pretty quick!
Date: Tuesday, August 27, 2013
Subject: Web Enquiry Service
Thank you for your
enquiry. The recorded key numbers for MGB, chassis number G-HN5-UF/370094-G
are FS.878, FT.216 and 2159.


Regards
Richard
		Bacchus
Certificate Officer
British Motor Industry Heritage
		Trust
Heritage Motor Centre

 Sent: Monday,
August 26, 2013 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: 1975 MG - cost and source for key code
number - Suggestion
 Jim Pete here. See data below and my suggestion.


 Car
build record 
You need to contact the British Heritage Motor Centre in the UK
by e-mail. Look at the price list. Ask for the car key code numbers (cost 6
pounds). Provide your car data, year, make, model and Vin number data.
B Base on this information, can cut you a key to on American key blanks.
http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/heritage-certificates-and-archiv
e-services/archive-research-services.html  
Archive Research Service B#6.00
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:39 AM
Subject:1975 MG keys  


Pete
 I seem
to have lost my keys for my 75 MGB. Unfortunately, whether code is work off
the face of the ignition, or was never there, I canbt seem to see any
numbers.


Pete Groh (KeyGuy)
Ellicott City MD USA
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 19:03:54 2013
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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 19:03:13 -0600
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <1377805198.53342.YahooMailNeo@web163804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lost keys, source for key code information
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I used them a few months ago for the keys to my '77 B.  I requested at 
night and had the codes in the morning and they worked great.

And since shared your code, where do you park your car?  ;)

--
Andrew

On 08/29/2013 01:39 PM, Pete Groh wrote:
> For car owner who loss their car keys,
> or used car owners with no keys,
> I what
> to share the information below. Very quick service from BHMC.
>
>   Sent: Tuesday,
> August 27, 2013 2:56 PM
> Subject: RE: 1975 MG - cost and source for key code
> number - Suggestion
> Pete - Looks like the heritage guys are pretty quick!
> Date: Tuesday, August 27, 2013
> Subject: Web Enquiry Service
> Thank you for your
> enquiry. The recorded key numbers for MGB, chassis number G-HN5-UF/370094-G
> are FS.878, FT.216 and 2159.
>
>
> Regards
> Richard
> 		Bacchus
> Certificate Officer
> British Motor Industry Heritage
> 		Trust
> Heritage Motor Centre
>
>   Sent: Monday,
> August 26, 2013 11:30 AM
> Subject: Re: 1975 MG - cost and source for key code
> number - Suggestion
>   Jim Pete here. See data below and my suggestion.
>
>
>   Car
> build record
> You need to contact the British Heritage Motor Centre in the UK
> by e-mail. Look at the price list. Ask for the car key code numbers (cost 6
> pounds). Provide your car data, year, make, model and Vin number data.
> B Base on this information, can cut you a key to on American key blanks.
> http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/heritage-certificates-and-archiv
> e-services/archive-research-services.html
> Archive Research Service B#6.00
> Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:39 AM
> Subject:1975 MG keys
>
>
> Pete
>   I seem
> to have lost my keys for my 75 MGB. Unfortunately, whether code is work off
> the face of the ignition, or was never there, I canbt seem to see any
> numbers.
>
>
> Pete Groh (KeyGuy)
> Ellicott City MD USA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren@byu.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 19:19:42 2013
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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:18:13 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Lost keys, source for key code information
Thread-Index: Ac6lHsv4bKevP0DPUU2+LPCJ8nVH5Q==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lost keys, source for key code information
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

LOL!


on 8/29/13 6:03 PM, Andrew Lundgren at lundgren@byu.net wrote:

> I used them a few months ago for the keys to my '77 B.  I requested at
> night and had the codes in the morning and they worked great.
> 
> And since shared your code, where do you park your car?  ;)
> 
> --
> Andrew
> 
> On 08/29/2013 01:39 PM, Pete Groh wrote:
>> For car owner who loss their car keys,
>> or used car owners with no keys,
>> I what
>> to share the information below. Very quick service from BHMC.
>> 
>>   Sent: Tuesday,
>> August 27, 2013 2:56 PM
>> Subject: RE: 1975 MG - cost and source for key code
>> number - Suggestion
>> Pete - Looks like the heritage guys are pretty quick!
>> Date: Tuesday, August 27, 2013
>> Subject: Web Enquiry Service
>> Thank you for your
>> enquiry. The recorded key numbers for MGB, chassis number G-HN5-UF/370094-G
>> are FS.878, FT.216 and 2159.
>> 
>> 
>> Regards
>> Richard
>> Bacchus
>> Certificate Officer
>> British Motor Industry Heritage
>> Trust
>> Heritage Motor Centre
>> 
>>   Sent: Monday,
>> August 26, 2013 11:30 AM
>> Subject: Re: 1975 MG - cost and source for key code
>> number - Suggestion
>>   Jim Pete here. See data below and my suggestion.
>> 
>> 
>>   Car
>> build record
>> You need to contact the British Heritage Motor Centre in the UK
>> by e-mail. Look at the price list. Ask for the car key code numbers (cost 6
>> pounds). Provide your car data, year, make, model and Vin number data.
>> B Base on this information, can cut you a key to on American key blanks.
>> http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/heritage-certificates-and-archiv
>> e-services/archive-research-services.html
>> Archive Research Service B#6.00
>> Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:39 AM
>> Subject:1975 MG keys
>> 
>> 
>> Pete
>>   I seem
>> to have lost my keys for my 75 MGB. Unfortunately, whether code is work off
>> the face of the ignition, or was never there, I canbt seem to see any
>> numbers.
>> 
>> 
>> Pete Groh (KeyGuy)
>> Ellicott City MD USA


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 19:26:04 2013
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From: Paul Root <ptroot@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 20:25:46 -0500
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Top installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm taking vacation this week, Tuesday to Friday. And I had two things on my
to-do list. First was to paint the floor of my garage. I finished that this
morning. That was a day and a half of prep and two hours spread over two days.
About what I expected. I used the epoxy stuff, it looks good.

So the MG spent it's second night out of a garage in the 12 years I've owned
it.

Anyway, this afternoon, I did the top. It went reasonably well. And looks
pretty good. We will see in a couple days I suppose.

The last thing I haven't done is glue the fabric around the bar. And I have a
question. I should just glue the two flaps together, not onto the bar, right?

Paul.
_______________________________________________

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From: John Elwood <mgmagnette@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 21:28:02 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Lost keys, source for key code information
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 12:04:22 GMT
To: ptroot@gmail.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Top installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

   John Twist writes about the top bar glueing in the Sept/Oct issue of MGB
Driver. He says to wrap and glue the rear fabric around the bar, then when
dry, wrap and glue the front fabric.
    Vinyl adhesive from hardware store may be the cheapest effective glue.
    I didn't glue it, though. The bar must be at the sem to achieve the
correct profile, but I used a light cord on each side to position the bar.
The bar can then move when folding, and the top folds slightly tighter.
    Tell us more about the floor paint, why you chose the one you did, and
about concrete preparation, please.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Paul Root <ptroot@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Top installation
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 20:25:46 -0500

I'm taking vacation this week, Tuesday to Friday. And I had two things on my
to-do list. First was to paint the floor of my garage. I finished that this
morning. That was a day and a half of prep and two hours spread over two
days.
About what I expected. I used the epoxy stuff, it looks good.

So the MG spent it's second night out of a garage in the 12 years I've owned
it.

Anyway, this afternoon, I did the top. It went reasonably well. And looks
pretty good. We will see in a couple days I suppose.

The last thing I haven't done is glue the fabric around the bar. And I have a
question. I should just glue the two flaps together, not onto the bar, right?

Paul.
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References: <20130830.080422.22439.4@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
From: Paul Root <ptrmgb@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 08:10:31 -0500
To: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Cc: "ptroot@gmail.com" <ptroot@gmail.com>,
	"mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Painting the floor. (Was Top installation)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I used the Rustoleum Epoxy garage floor kit available at the local home
improvement store.
I cleaned everything out of the garage, but have no place for things like the
work bench, tool chest, and some rolling shelves I built.

Then sweep, sweep, sweep. Hose it out. Sweep some more. Then degreaser,
scrubbing all the oil and whatever spots. Then sweep, hose, repeat.

Next was patching. I got a 10lb bag of vinyl concrete patch, and patched the
cracks and holes. I could have uses another 5lbs probably. Rustoleum has some
epoxy patch as well, but I didn't notice it when I bought the vinyl.

That was day one. It was hot out. More than 30 minutes at a time out there was
about all I could do.

The second morning was etching. The kit comes with a bag or citric acid. You
mix it up, hose the floor and.scrub with the acid. Rinse, rinse, rinse. Let it
dry. They warn now, that it has to be absolutely clean.

Then it is just a matter of mixing, pore the activator into the base, mix for
three minutes. I also added  some anti-slip grit.. Then wait according to the
temperature as found on the provided chart. For me, that was no wait.

Paint a section, sprinkle on the color chips, repeat. At above 80F, the chart
says you have an hour to apply. That isn't a problem.

Then, 24 hours dry time to walk on, and 72 or more for driving.

The proof will be after a winter with the stuff.

Two nights ago, it rained. Last night it didn't.

Paul.
Sent from my iPad

On Aug 30, 2013, at 12:04 PM, "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com> wrote:

>   John Twist writes about the top bar glueing in the Sept/Oct issue of MGB
> Driver. He says to wrap and glue the rear fabric around the bar, then when
> dry, wrap and glue the front fabric.
>    Vinyl adhesive from hardware store may be the cheapest effective glue.
>    I didn't glue it, though. The bar must be at the sem to achieve the
> correct profile, but I used a light cord on each side to position the bar.
> The bar can then move when folding, and the top folds slightly tighter.
>    Tell us more about the floor paint, why you chose the one you did, and
> about concrete preparation, please.
> Bob
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 23:42:36 GMT
To: lundgren@byu.net
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net, bmcu@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Cost to blast and powder coat a set of Rostyle rims?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

   A tombstone cutter blasted Rostyle wheels for my MGB at $25 each, and I
just had bonnet, front & wings, running boards, fuel tank and spare tire
carrier for my TD blasted, $520.
   I painted the wheels with Duplicolor Argent.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
To: bmcu@autox.team.net, "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Cost to blast and powder coat a set of Rostyle rims?
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 17:16:28 -0600

Anyone have an idea of what it costs in th US to sandblast and
powdercoat a set of Rostyles for an MGB?

I found some that look pretty bad.  Surface rust and what not.  I am not
sure it is worth buying them and bringing them back.

Thanks!

--
Andrew
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	<533CA74FFAD74676A21849AF627F1496@paul>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 17:02:25 -0700
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alternator? problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul,

thanks for your suggestions.

At the fusebox and at the alternator, I measured about 14.2V with the
engine running and revved up. With headlights on, this drops to about
13.8V. So, clearly, the alternator is working and the connection to the
fusebox is not too bad (I measured 0.2 ohms between the alternator and the
fusebox, which did seem rather high).  Turning on the headlights on had no
effect on the brightness of the ignition light on the dashboard.

What should I look at next?

Simon


On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 12:37 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>wrote:

> Does it glow more brightly with the headlights on?  That is an indication
> of bad alternator diodes or bad connections.
>
> The first thing you should do is to measure the system voltage on the
> brown wire at the fusebox, with respect to earth.  Ignition off should
> normally be about 12.8v (unless the engine has only just been turned off
> when it will probably be higher).  Ignition on will drop a couple of
> tenths.  Engine started and running at about 2k rpm should be about 14.5v.
>  As you start turning things on it will drop, but with headlights, heater
> fan, stop lights etc. all switched on it should still be above 12.8v.
>
> If below that measure the voltage on the output wire of the alternator, a
> thick brown, under the same conditions.  If that is also below then the
> alternator is faulty.  If clearly above what you measured on the fusebox
> brown then there are one or more bad connections between those two points.
>
> The connections between the two brown wires and the battery cable on the
> solenoid stud is a candidate for that, remove the battery earth strap for
> safety before tackling these.  Also measure the voltage on the brown and
> white wires at the ignition switch and its multi-plug connections.  Good
> voltage on a brown but lower voltage on a white points to the ignition
> switch.
>
> The first link shows a late model 3-terminal alternator, although the two
> large spades are linked together and are both output spades.  The
> standard-sized terminal is the warning light.  The other two terminals were
> never used on MGBs.  MGBs *did* have five (69 to 71) and four (68) terminal
> alternators with two plugs, and the second link, left-hand image shows the
> two-plug, five terminal arrangement that a 71 would have had originally.
>  It depends on what you have now as to what you have to do, if you have the
> three spades in a row, two large and one small like the second link, image
> on the right, then the mod has already been done.
>
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> We have a '71 MGB which is having charging problems, I think. The ignition
>> (red) light on the dashboard only goes out (well, it goes very dim) when
>> cruising on the freeway.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 31 19:51:04 2013
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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 20:51:59 -0500
To: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
	mail.com>
References: <CAEUYfyOQR5sORgbNEL43Tv254p9E8RA8CYPr+K+62JmdVmKWxA@mail.gmail.com>
	<533CA74FFAD74676A21849AF627F1496@paul>
	<CAEUYfyM6OHGkhgfhbSkAkG8riqmaTpOSr2igU4PFN+p7M__yyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alternator? problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon,

Do what youi should have done in the first place.  Measure voltage at 
battery terminals with headlights on and engine running.  It should 
be ar least 13.6 volts at idle, and something over 14.5 volts at 2000 
rpm engine speed.  Net time required, about 10 minutes.

If not sufficient voltage, then remove the alternator and take it to 
the nearest auto parts store to have it tested.  If it doesn't work 
well, get a replacement in the same trip.  Go home and put in on the 
car.  Net time required, about an hour.

If it was a bad alternator, the problem is fixed that easy.  If it 
was a good alternator, it didn't cost anything to figure out you were 
barking up the wrong tree, and you can get on with cleaning wire 
connections (like five days ago).

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 05:02 PM 8/31/2013 -0700, Simon Matthews wrote:
>....
>At the fusebox and at the alternator, I measured about 14.2V with the
>engine running and revved up. With headlights on, this drops to about
>13.8V. So, clearly, the alternator is working and the connection to the
>fusebox is not too bad (I measured 0.2 ohms between the alternator and the
>fusebox, which did seem rather high).  Turning on the headlights on had no
>effect on the brightness of the ignition light on the dashboard.
>....


>On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 12:37 AM, PaulHunt73 
><paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>wrote:
> > Does it glow more brightly with the headlights on?  That is an indication
> > of bad alternator diodes or bad connections.
> >
> > The first thing you should do is to measure the system voltage on the
> > brown wire at the fusebox, with respect to earth.  Ignition off should
> > normally be about 12.8v (unless the engine has only just been turned off
> > when it will probably be higher).  Ignition on will drop a couple of
> > tenths.  Engine started and running at about 2k rpm should be about 14.5v.
> >  As you start turning things on it will drop, but with headlights, heater
> > fan, stop lights etc. all switched on it should still be above 12.8v.
> >
> > If below that measure the voltage on the output wire of the alternator, a
> > thick brown, under the same conditions.  If that is also below then the
> > alternator is faulty.  If clearly above what you measured on the fusebox
> > brown then there are one or more bad connections between those two points.
> >
> > The connections between the two brown wires and the battery cable on the
> > solenoid stud is a candidate for that, remove the battery earth strap for
> > safety before tackling these.  Also measure the voltage on the brown and
> > white wires at the ignition switch and its multi-plug connections.  Good
> > voltage on a brown but lower voltage on a white points to the ignition
> > switch.
> >
> > The first link shows a late model 3-terminal alternator, although the two
> > large spades are linked together and are both output spades.  The
> > standard-sized terminal is the warning light.  The other two terminals were
> > never used on MGBs.  MGBs *did* have five (69 to 71) and four (68) terminal
> > alternators with two plugs, and the second link, left-hand image shows the
> > two-plug, five terminal arrangement that a 71 would have had originally.
> >  It depends on what you have now as to what you have to do, if you have the
> > three spades in a row, two large and one small like the second link, image
> > on the right, then the mod has already been done.
> >....


> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> We have a '71 MGB which is having charging problems, I think. The ignition
> >> (red) light on the dashboard only goes out (well, it goes very dim) when
> >> cruising on the freeway.
_______________________________________________

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	<533CA74FFAD74676A21849AF627F1496@paul>
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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 18:55:47 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
Cc: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alternator? problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon,
As long as  you have your meter out, with the engine running at 2000 and
the lights on, measure *AC* voltage between the alternator output and
ground.  Yes I said AC.
If you see more than about .4V AC you have a problem with shorted diode(s)
Rick


On Sat, Aug 31, 2013 at 6:51 PM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>wrote:

> Simon,
>
> Do what youi should have done in the first place.  Measure voltage at
> battery terminals with headlights on and engine running.  It should be ar
> least 13.6 volts at idle, and something over 14.5 volts at 2000 rpm engine
> speed.  Net time required, about 10 minutes.
>
> If not sufficient voltage, then remove the alternator and take it to the
> nearest auto parts store to have it tested.  If it doesn't work well, get a
> replacement in the same trip.  Go home and put in on the car.  Net time
> required, about an hour.
>
> If it was a bad alternator, the problem is fixed that easy.  If it was a
> good alternator, it didn't cost anything to figure out you were barking up
> the wrong tree, and you can get on with cleaning wire connections (like
> five days ago).
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.com
>
>
> At 05:02 PM 8/31/2013 -0700, Simon Matthews wrote:
>
>> ....
>>
>> At the fusebox and at the alternator, I measured about 14.2V with the
>> engine running and revved up. With headlights on, this drops to about
>> 13.8V. So, clearly, the alternator is working and the connection to the
>> fusebox is not too bad (I measured 0.2 ohms between the alternator and the
>> fusebox, which did seem rather high).  Turning on the headlights on had no
>> effect on the brightness of the ignition light on the dashboard.
>> ....
>>
>
>
>  On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 12:37 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
>> **wrote:
>> > Does it glow more brightly with the headlights on?  That is an
>> indication
>> > of bad alternator diodes or bad connections.
>> >
>> > The first thing you should do is to measure the system voltage on the
>> > brown wire at the fusebox, with respect to earth.  Ignition off should
>> > normally be about 12.8v (unless the engine has only just been turned off
>> > when it will probably be higher).  Ignition on will drop a couple of
>> > tenths.  Engine started and running at about 2k rpm should be about
>> 14.5v.
>> >  As you start turning things on it will drop, but with headlights,
>> heater
>> > fan, stop lights etc. all switched on it should still be above 12.8v.
>> >
>> > If below that measure the voltage on the output wire of the alternator,
>> a
>> > thick brown, under the same conditions.  If that is also below then the
>> > alternator is faulty.  If clearly above what you measured on the fusebox
>> > brown then there are one or more bad connections between those two
>> points.
>> >
>> > The connections between the two brown wires and the battery cable on the
>> > solenoid stud is a candidate for that, remove the battery earth strap
>> for
>> > safety before tackling these.  Also measure the voltage on the brown and
>> > white wires at the ignition switch and its multi-plug connections.  Good
>> > voltage on a brown but lower voltage on a white points to the ignition
>> > switch.
>> >
>> > The first link shows a late model 3-terminal alternator, although the
>> two
>> > large spades are linked together and are both output spades.  The
>> > standard-sized terminal is the warning light.  The other two terminals
>> were
>> > never used on MGBs.  MGBs *did* have five (69 to 71) and four (68)
>> terminal
>> > alternators with two plugs, and the second link, left-hand image shows
>> the
>> > two-plug, five terminal arrangement that a 71 would have had originally.
>> >  It depends on what you have now as to what you have to do, if you have
>> the
>> > three spades in a row, two large and one small like the second link,
>> image
>> > on the right, then the mod has already been done.
>> >....
>>
>
>
>  > ----- Original Message -----
>> >> We have a '71 MGB which is having charging problems, I think. The
>> ignition
>> >> (red) light on the dashboard only goes out (well, it goes very dim)
>> when
>> >> cruising on the freeway.
>>
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