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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 21:12:00 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Finally some progress this weekend! Got the links in the postfix imap procmail mharc namazu cron chain
all straightened out.  Don't worry if you don't understand that part, just know that the messages
to the Team.Net lists are now getting added to the archives on an hourly basis once again.

Next on the list is getting all the missing months added.

But for now, time for a cold one.

mjb.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 11:56:07 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 10:56:01 -0700
From: Matthew Milkevitch <mmilkevitch@yahoo.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dear Listers:

I have been working on my '74 MGB-GT lately, and I noticed that
the front wheels don't rotate the same.  The LH side rotates more freely than
the RH side.  

Thinking
 this was a sticking brake caliper, I replaced both
calipers, brake 
flexible lines and pads (along with the discs).  

After
doing this work, things 
are a little improved but the wheels still don't
rotate the same.  You 
can hear the RH side scraping when the wheel turns. 
When you pull the 
pads out of the RH side and push the caliper piston in a
little and 
re-install the pads, the wheel turns freely like the LH side. 
Once you 
push in the brake pedal in, however, the condition returns. 

To my
knowledge, the wheel bearings are correctly adjusted (outer nut to 60 ft/lbs,
the hub turns freely with no "clunk."

Any
 advice on where to check next?  Do
you think this is an issue with the 
master cylinder or the hard brake line to
that caliper perhaps?

Thanks for any help,
Matt Milkevitch
Maple Glen, PA
1974 MGB-GT
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 13:49:16 2014
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 19:47:18 GMT
To: mmilkevitch@yahoo.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Matt,  The master cylinder is divided, with one section for front brakes and
the other for rear. It is unlikely that the MC is related to this.  More
likely is that the brake hose or the brake calliper piston is causing the
problem. That you were able to relieve it when you prised the piston back
shows that the problem is on one side.  Brake hoses fail internally while
appearing on the outside to be perfect. I would suggest that if you are
uncertain of their age, or if you know that they are over ten years of age, to
replace all three of them, and the clutch hose as well. It may, of course, be
the piston, but  old hoses are eventually going to cause you concern.  If you
remove the pads on the affected wheel, you can gently squeeze out the piston.
Have a look at its outside diameter. If pitted or rusty, it may be sticking
and causing the problem. You may be able to polish it so that it does not
stick any more, but for the effort involved, I think replacing them is the way
to go.   Brake parts for MGB are not expensive, so replacing anything that
could be at fault is not wasted effort.Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Matthew Milkevitch <mmilkevitch@yahoo.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 10:56:01 -0700

Dear Listers:

I have been working on my '74 MGB-GT lately, and I noticed that
the front wheels don't rotate the same.  The LH side rotates more freely than
the RH side.

Thinking
 this was a sticking brake caliper, I replaced both
calipers, brake
flexible lines and pads (along with the discs).

After
doing this work, things
are a little improved but the wheels still don't
rotate the same.  You
can hear the RH side scraping when the wheel turns.
When you pull the
pads out of the RH side and push the caliper piston in a
little and
re-install the pads, the wheel turns freely like the LH side.
Once you
push in the brake pedal in, however, the condition returns.

To my
knowledge, the wheel bearings are correctly adjusted (outer nut to 60 ft/lbs,
the hub turns freely with no "clunk."

Any
 advice on where to check next?  Do
you think this is an issue with the
master cylinder or the hard brake line to
that caliper perhaps?

Thanks for any help,
Matt Milkevitch
Maple Glen, PA
1974 MGB-GT
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 14:11:30 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 15:11:37 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1406483761.87844.YahooMailNeo@web161006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd suggest you drive the car a few miles & then check the right side 
for drag.  The runout of the disc should knock the piston back while 
driving.  Remember that the hub end play isn't a matter of the torque on 
the nut; it's a matter of having the correct total thickness of shims in 
the hub.

CR
On 7/27/2014 12:56 PM, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:
> Dear Listers:
>
> I have been working on my '74 MGB-GT lately, and I noticed that
> the front wheels don't rotate the same.  The LH side rotates more freely than
> the RH side.
>
> Thinking
>   this was a sticking brake caliper, I replaced both
> calipers, brake
> flexible lines and pads (along with the discs).
>
> After
> doing this work, things
> are a little improved but the wheels still don't
> rotate the same.  You
> can hear the RH side scraping when the wheel turns.
> When you pull the
> pads out of the RH side and push the caliper piston in a
> little and
> re-install the pads, the wheel turns freely like the LH side.
> Once you
> push in the brake pedal in, however, the condition returns.
>
> To my
> knowledge, the wheel bearings are correctly adjusted (outer nut to 60 ft/lbs,
> the hub turns freely with no "clunk."
>
> Any
>   advice on where to check next?  Do
> you think this is an issue with the
> master cylinder or the hard brake line to
> that caliper perhaps?
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Matt Milkevitch
> Maple Glen, PA
> 1974 MGB-GT
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 14:52:12 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 15:52:23 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.0
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1406483761.87844.YahooMailNeo@web161006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
 <53D55CF9.80500@ktc.com>
 {sentby:smtp auth 98.212.127.207 authed with shop@justbrits.com}
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

#1:   E D I T   Y O U R    R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject" 
catches you] !!
#2:   "To:" MUST be the List you are 'replying to with ZERO 'other' 
'targets' ! ! !
#3:   DELETE usage of aol, yahoo, hotmail, & MSN.
***XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX*


<<  On 7/27/2014 3:11 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> it's a matter of having the correct total thickness of shims in the 
> hub. >>

My VERY first\t thought, Charlie :-) ;-) :-)   ! ! !

And Matt, ENTIRE "assembly/parts 'collection' " must be "sterile" clean 
;-) :-) ;-) ! !

Oooops, that includes bearings [which WILL be a PITA :-D :-D :-D :-D ! ! !

Ed
" Just Brits "
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 16:03:22 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 23:03:26 +0100
From: Thompson Allan <allan.thompson@ntlworld.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Servo sticking?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi there,

Wondering if anyone has a suggestion as to what may be the cause of the
brake servo on my 1977 MGB appearing to come on late and stick.

When I press the brake pedal and the car slows to a stop, the servo appears
to become 'active' taking some pressure off the brake pedal and 'clamping'
the brakes on for a brief period.

Has anyone experience of this phenomenon?

regards
Allan
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 20:56:00 -0400
From: John Di Fede <difejo@optonline.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
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Matt,

Unless the brake pads are really pressing up against the rotors, you may not
have a problem at all.

I would drive the car for a few miles and then check the temperature of the
RH wheel.  It will be very hot if the brakes are applying pressure against
the rotor.   You can check the temperature by touching the center of each
front wheel and compare the temperature.    If there is a problem with the
brakes, the RH wheel will be hot.  


John Di Fede   

     


------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 10:56:01 -0700
From: Matthew Milkevitch <mmilkevitch@yahoo.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Message-ID:
	<1406483761.87844.YahooMailNeo@web161006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Dear Listers:

I have been working on my '74 MGB-GT lately, and I noticed that the front
wheels don't rotate the same.  The LH side rotates more freely than the RH
side.  

Thinking
 this was a sticking brake caliper, I replaced both calipers, brake flexible
lines and pads (along with the discs).  

After
doing this work, things
are a little improved but the wheels still don't rotate the same.  You can
hear the RH side scraping when the wheel turns. 
When you pull the
pads out of the RH side and push the caliper piston in a little and
re-install the pads, the wheel turns freely like the LH side. 
Once you
push in the brake pedal in, however, the condition returns. 

To my
knowledge, the wheel bearings are correctly adjusted (outer nut to 60
ft/lbs, the hub turns freely with no "clunk."

Any
 advice on where to check next?  Do
you think this is an issue with the
master cylinder or the hard brake line to that caliper perhaps?

Thanks for any help,
Matt Milkevitch
Maple Glen, PA
1974 MGB-GT


------------------------------

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 19:58:36 2014
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From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 86, Issue 8
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Matt,

It could very well be a bad new part(ie., one caliper).  It also could 
be striving for perfection.

A little drag is acceptable. Too much isn't. If you race the caror drive 
it to work everyday it's an issue. If you drive it 200 miles a year it 
isn't. If you can easily rotate the wheel after applying and letting off 
the brake pedal I wouldn't worry much about it. The worst it's going to 
do, if it's bad, is make the car pull to one side on fast heavy braking.

Make sure your rear brakes are in good shape and adjusted. Take it out 
for a test drive.In a safe place, slam on the brakes. If it pulls to one 
side or the other you've got a problem. If it doesn't, then all you're 
concerned with is slightly more wear on one side than the other. Over 
several thousand miles.

The master cylinder in your car is going to have the same effect on both 
sides of the car front and rear. If only one wheel is locking it's not 
the M/C.

That's my take.

Glenn

On 7/27/2014 1:00 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Dear Listers:
>
> I have been working on my '74 MGB-GT lately, and I noticed that
> the front wheels don't rotate the same.  The LH side rotates more freely than
> the RH side.
>
> Thinking
>   this was a sticking brake caliper, I replaced both
> calipers, brake
> flexible lines and pads (along with the discs).
>
> After
> doing this work, things
> are a little improved but the wheels still don't
> rotate the same.  You
> can hear the RH side scraping when the wheel turns.
> When you pull the
> pads out of the RH side and push the caliper piston in a
> little and
> re-install the pads, the wheel turns freely like the LH side.
> Once you
> push in the brake pedal in, however, the condition returns.
>
> To my
> knowledge, the wheel bearings are correctly adjusted (outer nut to 60 ft/lbs,
> the hub turns freely with no "clunk."
>
> Any
>   advice on where to check next?  Do
> you think this is an issue with the
> master cylinder or the hard brake line to
> that caliper perhaps?
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Matt Milkevitch
> Maple Glen, PA
> 1974 MGB-GT
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 01:38:58 2014
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Thompson Allan" <allan.thompson@ntlworld.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CABrxh4GG5oJmJicL=62dNFqurCWqviFFE+GADKS2jaPYq8es2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 08:17:33 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Servo sticking?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Not uncommon.  The air valve on the remote servo sticks which prevents the 
vacuum on one side of the diaphragm from filling, and that keeps pressure on 
the fluid downstream of the servo.  My roadster has done it for years 
intermittently, in hot weather, usually a tap of the brake pedal releases 
it.  But a pal's was so severe while away touring we had to disconnect the 
vacuum hose from the servo and plug it with a spare spark plug.

Some say lubricating the air valve with silicone grease fixes it, others 
point to the installation instructions for the after-market Lockheed servo 
that shows the servo fitted with the air-valve pointing downwards instead of 
upwards as the factory fitted it, yet more say the air valve needs to be 
removed and it's cylinder polished with fine wet and dry.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Wondering if anyone has a suggestion as to what may be the cause of the
> brake servo on my 1977 MGB appearing to come on late and stick.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 01:39:06 2014
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: <mgbob@juno.com>, <mmilkevitch@yahoo.com>
References: <20140727.154718.17802.0@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 08:29:22 +0100
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

That's a lot of time, trouble and money to expend without doing a proper 
diagnosis, particularly when it didn't solve the problem.

Firstly, you should have retracted the pistons, or removed the pads, and 
spun the wheels.  Are they the same or different now?  If different it's 
something to do with the hubs, not the braking system.

If they spin the same with the pistons retracted, but don't when the brakes 
are applied and released, briefly slacken the bleed nipple on the binding 
side.  If they then spin the same, and especially if there was a spurt of 
fluid when you slackened the bleed nipple, then the flex hose that side is 
probably breaking down and acting as a one-way valve.

If the binding side still binds with the bleed nipple having been slackened 
then retract the pistons all the way back, and have someone very slowly push 
the brake pedal bit by bit while you see what the pistons are doing.  If one 
or both pistons on the binding wheel only start moving when the others are 
pushing their pads right up against the disc, and particularly if they are 
retarding their disc, then you probably have a sticking piston.  It's worth 
removing the pads, extending the pistons, then wrapping one turn of cord 
round them dampened with brake fluid, and pulling the cord back and fore to 
polish the pistons.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I have been working on my '74 MGB-GT lately, and I noticed that
> the front wheels don't rotate the same.  The LH side rotates more freely 
> than
> the RH side.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 09:12:24 2014
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To: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>,  "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
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A PITA for sure, especially on wire wheel hubs!

CR
On 7/27/2014 3:52 PM, Ed Kaler wrote:
> ;-) :-) ;-) ! ! Oooops, that includes bearings [which WILL be a PITA 
> :-D :-D :-D :-D ! ! ! Ed " Just Brits "
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Test
 
otis15@aol.com
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Sorry, you failed to pass the test. The testing fee is non-refundable. We apologize
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 08:12:05 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
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How so?

----- Original Message ----- 

>... especially on wire wheel hubs!
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 10:08:28 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <1406483761.87844.YahooMailNeo@web161006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
 <53D55CF9.80500@ktc.com> <53D56687.2000604@justbrits.com>
 <53D66867.4040105@ktc.com> <5CE34BCE7A714ECBB6819B46B023F216@paul>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Mainly because the nuts/caps are recessed inside the splined hubs.

CR
On 7/29/2014 2:12 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> How so?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> ... especially on wire wheel hubs!
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 09:11:23 2014
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 10:09:11 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>, otis15@aol.com, Mgs@autox.team.net
References: <8D178E2E9192C81-214C-62A2@webmail-va002.sysops.aol.com>
 <53D6F868.5080007@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] test
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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ROFL!  -- CR
On 7/28/2014 8:27 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Sorry, you failed to pass the test. The testing fee is non-refundable. 
> We apologize
> for any inconvenience.
>
> mjb, Team.Net Headmaster.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 09:26:36 2014
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: <ccrobins@ktc.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1406483761.87844.YahooMailNeo@web161006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
 <53D55CF9.80500@ktc.com> <53D56687.2000604@justbrits.com>
 <53D66867.4040105@ktc.com> <5CE34BCE7A714ECBB6819B46B023F216@paul>
 <53D7B8EC.3040804@ktc.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 16:24:48 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Easily resolved:  http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/greasecap.htm#1

One the cap is off you bash a socket on and turn the nut to shear the 
spilt-pin, if you can't be bothered to remove it by more conventional means.

----- Original Message ----- 

> Mainly because the nuts/caps are recessed inside the splined hubs.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 09:43:17 2014
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From: <dcouncill@karamursel.org>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 08:43:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Flare wrench dilemma
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 10:01:41 2014
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Flare wrench dilemma
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_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 15:34:56 2014
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 16:35:10 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <1406483761.87844.YahooMailNeo@web161006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
 <53D55CF9.80500@ktc.com> <53D56687.2000604@justbrits.com>
 <53D66867.4040105@ktc.com> <5CE34BCE7A714ECBB6819B46B023F216@paul>
 <53D7B8EC.3040804@ktc.com> <DA5DFDF4D58C4AB1BC1DAE3E5B8625D8@paul>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I prefer to use more elegant means. :-)

CR
On 7/29/2014 10:24 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> Easily resolved: http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/greasecap.htm#1
>
> One the cap is off you bash a socket on and turn the nut to shear the 
> spilt-pin, if you can't be bothered to remove it by more conventional 
> means.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> Mainly because the nuts/caps are recessed inside the splined hubs.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 22:17:26 2014
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 00:16:57 -0400
From: MARK SHERMAN <shrmnmrk@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] MG TD Front Left Suspension components needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am looking for the front left kingpin assembly, including steering
knuckle, swivel pin and links.

Please let me know if you have any of these.

Thanks

Mark Sherman
New Jersey
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 22:38:30 2014
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 00:38:53 -0400
From: MARK SHERMAN <mrkshrmn@hotmail.com>
To: MGVR@yahoogroups.com, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a Supercharger Crankshaft Pulley for MG TD with
 Marshall Nordec Blower
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The one I have mounts in the front of the standard crankshaft pulley.  It
was damaged in an accident.

Please let me know if you have one or know where I might find one.

Thanks

Mark Sherman
New Jersey
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 02:52:04 2014
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: <ccrobins@ktc.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1406483761.87844.YahooMailNeo@web161006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
 <53D55CF9.80500@ktc.com> <53D56687.2000604@justbrits.com>
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 09:50:01 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ah, I see, an elegant PITA ...

----- Original Message ----- 

>I prefer to use more elegant means. :-)
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 05:04:12 -0700
From: Matthew Milkevitch <mmilkevitch@yahoo.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem-Thanks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dear Listers:

Thanks for all who responded with advice about my brake caliper
problem.  


Just a couple of notes:

1) Wheel Bearings:  the wheel bearings
are properly assembled with the shims installed.  The outer nut is torqued to
the correct range and I am pretty sure the end float is correct (I don't get
any "clunk" and the wheel spins freely at the correct nut torque).  Yes, wheel
bearing adjustment is not about the torque of the nut but the proper amount of
shims need to be installed.  I neglected to state in my first message that the
shims were in there! :-)


2) This repair was a lot of work and expense,
however the pads needed to be renewed and the flexible lines were of unknown
age.  Therefore I believed it prudent to go through the whole works, even
though it cost a few $$$ and most of a Saturday.


3) I did replace the brake
flexible lines (not sure if I mentioned this).

4) One additional
observation:  the brake rotor rubbing is not constant over the total 360 deg
rotation.  It turns freely during a part of the rotation, then another part it
drags.  I'm therefore wondering if perhaps the rotor is warped or the mating
surfaces between the rotor and hub have some junk in them.  I will disassemble
that one side today and see what's going on.

I will also check other Lister
ideas today and over the coming weekend.

Thanks again for all the help, if
anyone should have some further ideas please send them along.

Regards
Matt
Milkevitch
1974 MGB-GT
Maple Glen, PA
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 12:40:51 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
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References: <1406721852.40363.YahooMailNeo@web161006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem-Thanks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

#1:   E D I T   Y O U R    R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject" 
catches you] !!
#2:   "To:" MUST be the List you are 'replying to with ZERO 'other' 
'targets' ! ! !
#3:   DELETE usage of aol, yahoo, hotmail, & MSN.
*XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

*
<<  On 7/30/2014 7:04 AM, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:

5]
<quote>
2,
<snip>
and most of a Saturday.
</quote>

Matt, BET you $5.00 you did NOT take rotors to s REAL LAP/M shop
and have rotors "turned/skimmed" ? ! ?

Ed
" Just Brits "
PS:  Personal cheque is fine <G> LOL ! ! !
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 15:58:44 2014
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 14:58:43 -0700
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <Yc761o01X0NyJgq01c77Hp>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem-Thanks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

In my experience, brake rotors almost always have some wedge. If you 
have a micrometer, you can measure it. If you can turn the rotor by 
hand, you should be fine. The piston will retract a bit while driving.

On 7/30/2014 5:04 AM, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:
> 4) One additional
> observation:  the brake rotor rubbing is not constant over the total 360 deg
> rotation.  It turns freely during a part of the rotation, then another part it
> drags.  I'm therefore wondering if perhaps the rotor is warped or the mating
> surfaces between the rotor and hub have some junk in them.  I will disassemble
> that one side today and see what's going on.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 16:28:02 2014
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 17:26:41 -0500
From: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem-Thanks
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I am a little late to this post but it is my understanding that the 
slight "wobble" on disc brake rotors is what knocks the pads back from 
the rotor and that if you can rotate a hub by hand you are good to go.  
Drum brakes rely on springs to move the shoes back away from the drum, 
disc brakes don't have them.  Some of the better pads are ground at an 
angle on the leading edge to make this easier to accomplish, actually 
they are ground on the leading and trailing edge so it won't matter 
which side they are installed.  I agree with David, go drive it around 
the neighborhood for a while.  I have seen both calipers lock on the 
drum if the one way valve in the master sticks closed, in that case 
usually letting a little fluid bleed off will release the pads.  It 
seems to happen more often if you vacuum bleed the system but not sure why.


On 7/30/2014 4:58 PM, David Ambrose wrote:
> In my experience, brake rotors almost always have some wedge. If you 
> have a micrometer, you can measure it. If you can turn the rotor by 
> hand, you should be fine. The piston will retract a bit while driving.
>
> On 7/30/2014 5:04 AM, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:
>> 4) One additional
>> observation:  the brake rotor rubbing is not constant over the total 
>> 360 deg
>> rotation.  It turns freely during a part of the rotation, then 
>> another part it
>> drags.  I'm therefore wondering if perhaps the rotor is warped or the 
>> mating
>> surfaces between the rotor and hub have some junk in them.  I will 
>> disassemble
>> that one side today and see what's going on.
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
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To: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem-Thanks
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Actually the "retraction" of the pads is mostly in the caliper seal. When you
step on the brakes the piston is pressed forward a couple of thousandths of an
inch so the pads press against the rotor. This minor movement is not the
piston moving in relation to the seal, but rather the piston seal distorting
just a bit to allow this very minor movement.
Take you foot off the brake and the seal returns back to normal.  Of course as
the pads wear the piston does have to move outward.
As far as the chamfer on the pads go that is for noise prevention. Back in the
days of square cut pads when we had a noise complaint we would chamfer the
leading edge to make them quiet. Finally the pads makers started doing that
from the get go

A normal disc brake will have a bit of drag when rotated and it won't be even
all the way around. Expect a scritch-scritch sound maybe  1X per revolution.
This is stone normal. If the other wheel has no sound when turning that wheel
might be the issue perhaps a loose wheel bearing or warped rotor
Rick

Sent from my iPhone
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To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <1406483761.87844.YahooMailNeo@web161006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
 <53D55CF9.80500@ktc.com> <53D56687.2000604@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
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:-)
On 7/30/2014 3:50 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> Ah, I see, an elegant PITA ...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I prefer to use more elegant means. :-)
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 22:50:38 -0400
From: MARK SHERMAN <mrkshrmn@hotmail.com>
To: MGVR@yahoogroups.com, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Anyone looking for one ticket to the Pebble Beach Concours?
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

If so, I have one that I cannot use.

Please contact me off list.  (I can bring it to NHMS this weekend.)

Mark Sherman
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 01:32:50 2014
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <Yc761o01X0NyJgq01c77Hp> <53D96A93.1000708@cox.net>
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 08:12:45 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem-Thanks
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

It's a combination of the two things.  If you press the brake pedal at a 
standstill, let go, and immediately turn the wheel, there will be some 
residual friction from the pad that rapidly eases, usually leaving just a 
gentle rub.  When driving the bearings have .002 to .004 thou end float, 
which means the hub and hence the disc can 'wobble' a bit relative to the 
caliper, and this tends to knock the pads back a little bit more.

But did the original poster ever come back with anything, I've not seen it, 
but then I didn't get the original post either, just MGBob's response.  As I 
said before the first thing to do with a problem like this is manually 
retract the pistons and see how the wheel turns then.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Actually the "retraction" of the pads is mostly in the caliper seal. 
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From: "davewillner" <davewillner@pa.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 19:16:23 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] wiring gremlin in 70 MGB
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok, so last fall my turn signal lever on my 70 MGB melted down, the end of the
lever started to melt. I did a quick replacement with a used one I found at a
show, it was for a later year (71+) as it didn't have the horn button. I'm not
sure if this is all coincidental or not, all my fuses are ok and in tack. The
battery has been going dead, the ignition key buzzer goes off when the
driver's door is opened even without the key left in. And the tach has stopped
working awhile ago, I think around last fall when I had the initial issue.
Today the signals just stopped working also. I just ordered the correct signal
lever with the horn button, but curious as to what to take a look at first?
Appreciate any insight and help, thanks

Dave
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 08:22:05 2014
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "davewillner" <davewillner@pa.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CBD68D3D634149658F82C8909888CAE4@home2b99dc0107>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 15:12:18 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] wiring gremlin in 70 MGB
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeez, where to start!  Any or all these symptoms could be connected or 
unconnected.

A melted switch implies a serious short and that needs to be investigated 
first.  It could have damaged any number of wires and circuits, so that's 
what you need to be looking for first of all, and fixing any damage found.

The tach needs two inputs to register - a 12v supply and earth on the one 
hand, and the ignition signal on the other.  Either could be missing, and 
indeed the tach itself could be faulty.  But if the engine runs, and you 
have the original points ignition wiring, it's safe to assume that the 
signal part is OK, so check for 12v and earth between the white wire that 
goes to the spade on the back of the tach, and the tach body.  Also give the 
glass of the tach a sharp rap with a knuckle with the engine running and see 
if it starts registering.

With the ignition on and the turn switch moved up or down do the dash 
tell-tales light?  If not there is no power reaching the turn signal switch. 
This comes from the green fused circuit, through the hazard switch in the 
off position, and through the turn flasher, to the turn switch.  Check the 
green wires on the hazard switch and turn flasher for 12v with the ignition 
on, and the light-green/brown wire on the turn flasher for 12v.  This last 
wire goes to the turn switch, so check both sides of the multi-way plug on 
that wire, as well as at the switch itself.  Somewhere along that run you 
will probably find 12v no longer appears.  If there is no 12v on either 
green at the hazard switch then there is a break back towards the fusebox. 
12v on one green and not the other means the hazard switch is faulty.  12v 
on the green but not the light-green/brown at the turn flasher means the 
turn flasher is faulty, and so on.

If the dash tell-tales light you have power through the turn switch, so 
check the corners to see if one or other isn't lighting.  If both are 
lighting it could be the turn flasher has failed, or it could be bad 
connections anywhere in the circuit reducing the current.  With each corner 
lit measure the voltage on the red wire of each light unit with respect to 
earth.  If much less than 12v that shows bad connections somewhere.  Then 
measure the voltage between the body of the light unit and a good earth 
elsewhere, anything above 0v shows a bad earth.  If one or both corners 
aren't lighting there is a break in the circuit from the switch out to the 
corners, or the bulbs are faulty.  Check the green/red (left) and 
green/white (right) circuits for 12v with the switch moved to that side at 
the switch, multi-way connector, four-way bullets by the fusebox where the 
main harness joins the rear harness, and at the corners of the car.

The buzzer sounding with the doors open but the keys out implies an earth on 
the purple/pink between the buzzer and the ignition switch.  If removing 
that wire from the switch itself stops the buzzer, then the ignition switch 
is faulty.  If not then that wire is shorted to earth somewhere between the 
ignition switch and the buzzer.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Ok, so last fall my turn signal lever on my 70 MGB melted down, the end of 
> the
> lever started to melt. I did a quick replacement with a used one I found 
> at a
> show, it was for a later year (71+) as it didn't have the horn button. I'm 
> not
> sure if this is all coincidental or not, all my fuses are ok and in tack. 
> The
> battery has been going dead, the ignition key buzzer goes off when the
> driver's door is opened even without the key left in. And the tach has 
> stopped
> working awhile ago, I think around last fall when I had the initial issue.
> Today the signals just stopped working also. I just ordered the correct 
> signal
> lever with the horn button, but curious as to what to take a look at 
> first?
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 12:25:05 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: Matthew Milkevitch <mmilkevitch@yahoo.com>,  "mgs@autox.team.net"
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References: <1406483761.87844.YahooMailNeo@web161006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

What was the outcome on this?  It leaves an empty in the stomach of a 
few people to be left without knowing,  especially those who tried to help.

CR


On 7/27/2014 12:56 PM, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:
> Dear Listers:
>
> I have been working on my '74 MGB-GT lately, and I noticed that
> the front wheels don't rotate the same.  The LH side rotates more freely than
> the RH side.
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:35:45 -0700
From: Matthew Milkevitch <mmilkevitch@yahoo.com>
To: "ccrobins@ktc.com" <ccrobins@ktc.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net"
 <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dear Listers:

I apologize for not sending an update.  I was working outside
all day, doing some site work for a new garage on my property.


Here is an
update:

1) Thinking the brake disc was "cocked" a little due to something
between the disc and hub,  I disassembled the offending side.  I inspected the
hub and there was some corrosion on the mating surface with the brake disc.  I
buzzed this off with my whizzer and 3M conditioning disc.  There wasn't very
much corrosion present.

2) I reassembled everything.  However I did notice
one wheel bearing shim was in the wrong place.  It was between the outer nut
and the outer bearing.  I put it where it should be, tightened it up and
checked the end float.  The wheel spun freely and there was no "clunk" when
pulling on the hub.

3) After the caliper and pads were re-installed, the
condition did not improve noticeably.  I was still getting some drag and the
LH side did not rotate like the RH side.

4)  I went for about a 5 mile ride,
and when I brought the car home I jacked up the front end and checked how each
front wheel turned.  They are still not rotating exactly the same but the
dragging side is much improved.  I would say there is a very small amount of
drag present now.

I think this is as good as it gets.  A couple of listers
were pointing out that I was probably looking for perfection, and I guess I
was.  I realize now that such perfection is not possible.  Anyhow, lesson
learned.

Thanks for all who responded with advice.  I appreciate all the
information.  Now it's time to adjust those rear brakes!!

Best Regards
Matt
Milkevitch
1974 MGB-GT
Maple Glen, PA



On Thursday, July 31, 2014 1:25 PM,
Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com> wrote:
 


What was the outcome on
this?  It leaves an empty in the stomach of a 
few people to be left without
knowing,  especially those who tried to help.

CR



On 7/27/2014 12:56 PM,
Matthew Milkevitch wrote:
> Dear Listers:
>
> I have been working on my '74
MGB-GT lately, and I noticed that
> the front wheels don't rotate the same. 
The LH side rotates more freely than
> the RH side.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:32 2018
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Charles Hill" <chillmog@sbcglobal.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <C2F4154E10484AAD919958136CB17476@FrankPC>
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Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2014 08:20:41 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] List Up?
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Well, they ain't bouncing now!

----- Original Message ----- 

> It seems to be part-way up.  I get message but my posts get bounced.  
> Trying again.
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Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2014 16:10:46 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
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CC: Mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] List Up?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

<<  On 6/30/2014 8:00 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> I get message but my posts get bounced.  >>

As Mark might say, Charlie (etal):

"Edit your replies ! !"

In your case (and other Listers <G>),  EDIT the "To:" address to The 
List and NOT
a Lister or even yourself so when the autoX.com soft 'reads' the 
requested post, it
is FROM: ........@autox.team.com and approves it (unless [maybe] it is 
an original
post from an aol or yahoo).

If you feel you absolutely 'must' include someone as a DUPLICATE, then 
either use
[another] "To:" BUT SECOND or "CC:".   NEVER, I repeat NEVER send to post to
the List as a "BCC:" ! !

HTHs !

Ed
Owner, 9issa at justbrits dot com ('joke' list);
Owner, polysci_101 at justbrits dot com (political & arguments ONLY);
Owner, 10 other private lists.
ALL using same software as team.net, MailMan.
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To: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>, Mga List <Mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] List Up?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

OK ed, did you send Mark 20 bux?

CR
On 7/1/2014 4:10 PM, Ed Kaler wrote:
> <<  On 6/30/2014 8:00 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>> I get message but my posts get bounced.  >>
> As Mark might say, Charlie (etal):
>
> "Edit your replies ! !"
>
>
>
> Ed
> O
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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 09:20:34 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+Z/2Dmo28Snf2VSnKeLeDyhkinTw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The current
iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her. But she sips oil
modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for my 59 Land Rover told me
that most machine shops and rebuilders machine the cylinder walls wrong.
They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the bottom of
the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the driveshaft and
connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.

 

So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow less
oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?

 

Also by now, I'm figuring she has finished running in and plan to change
oil/filter.

 

 

"We live in the greatest nation in the history of the world," he pleaded. "I
hope you'll join with me as we try to change it." Barrie Obama
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 16:31:53 GMT
To: crk@godblessthe.us
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

  MG was more tolerant of oil consumption than we are today. "Sipping" could
mean 400 miles to a quart, once upon a time.   Have you determined that the
oil is passing the rings, or coming down past the valve stems, or not dripping
from seals or pan or other connections?  I am sceptical that on this newly
rebuilt  engine that it's rings or cylinder problems.  My MGB has almost a
thousand miles since its spring time oil change, when Brad Penn 20-50 (the
high ZDDP stuff) was put in, and there has been only the slightest drop on the
dipstick. I am suspicious of troubles, as it does not seem to be burning
enough.   How did the LR guy bore cylinders other than round?Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 09:20:34 -0700

Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The current
iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her. But she sips oil
modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for my 59 Land Rover told me
that most machine shops and rebuilders machine the cylinder walls wrong.
They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the bottom of
the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the driveshaft and
connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.



So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow less
oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?



Also by now, I'm figuring she has finished running in and plan to change
oil/filter.





"We live in the greatest nation in the history of the world," he pleaded. "I
hope you'll join with me as we try to change it." Barrie Obama
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com
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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <20140707.123153.23572.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 10:04:54 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+aAStaHrxn5C8bQweB5+iwNWWjuQAA7r2g
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Thanks Bob. I am in the 1 qt/400 mile range. Haven't looked for a leak,
however the concrete shows a small oil drip, it's not coming from seals or
pan. I don't think it is the rings or cylinder either. I started with
valvoline 50 which is what the rebuilder used, but have recently been using
Castrol 15/30.

 

On the LR, apparently he bored the cylinders slightly over to account for
the sideward inline movement.

 

Clayton

 

From: mgbob@juno.com [mailto:mgbob@juno.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 9:32 AM
To: crk@godblessthe.us
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?

 

  MG was more tolerant of oil consumption than we are today. "Sipping" could
mean 400 miles to a quart, once upon a time.

   Have you determined that the oil is passing the rings, or coming down
past the valve stems, or not dripping from seals or pan or other
connections?  I am sceptical that on this newly rebuilt  engine that it's
rings or cylinder problems.

  My MGB has almost a thousand miles since its spring time oil change, when
Brad Penn 20-50 (the high ZDDP stuff) was put in, and there has been only
the slightest drop on the   dipstick. I am suspicious of troubles, as it
does not seem to be burning enough.

   How did the LR guy bore cylinders other than round?

Bob

 


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 09:20:34 -0700

Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The current
iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her. But she sips oil
modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for my 59 Land Rover told me
that most machine shops and rebuilders machine the cylinder walls wrong.
They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the bottom of
the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the driveshaft and
connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.



So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow less
oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?



Also by now, I'm figuring she has finished running in and plan to change
oil/filter.





"We live in the greatest nation in the history of the world," he pleaded. "I
hope you'll join with me as we try to change it." Barrie Obama
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/12.36.0.130206
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2014 09:53:44 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Thread-Index: Ac+Z/2Dmo28Snf2VSnKeLeDyhkinTwABKI7Z
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I don't buy that oval story. The whole idea is to keep the piston square in
the bore, so the rings seal. You oval out the bore, the rings are circular
-- the only way they can seal is to cock the piston, which can't happen
because there are 3 rings, not one.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/7/14 9:20 AM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk@godblessthe.us wrote:

> Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The current
> iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her. But she sips oil
> modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for my 59 Land Rover told me
> that most machine shops and rebuilders machine the cylinder walls wrong.
> They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the bottom of
> the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the driveshaft and
> connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.
> 
>  
> 
> So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow less
> oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?
> 
>  
> 
> Also by now, I'm figuring she has finished running in and plan to change
> oil/filter.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> "We live in the greatest nation in the history of the world," he pleaded. "I
> hope you'll join with me as we try to change it." Barrie Obama
_______________________________________________

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To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CFE01EA8.51D9C%mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 14:26:25 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I'm with you Max, I don't buy the oval story.
In fact, when I took my 1622 apart, my machinist said that my cylinders were 
not oval, and at .030 over, I didn't want to bore any more if not necessary. 
Honed cylinders and reassembled with same pistons and new rings.  After run 
in I discovered that my #3 cyl was registering 80psi compression (other 
three were 150).  Carefully removed #3 piston and found all rings with the 
gap at 9o'clock.  Presumed that this was the problem, and re-clocked the 
rings.  Re-assembled and compression was 150, just like other three. 
Checked again after first short drive and found it at 80psi.  My theory is 
that the cyl is slightly oval, enough that the rings 'center' themselves in 
a short time.
Current solution is a 3 main bearing 1800 sitting on a stand awaiting a 
rebuild, then I will look further into the 1622.

To the point of the thread.  In my '62 MGA, I have pretty much always used a 
qt of oil every 500 - 700 mi.  Latest oil change was with Redline 20w50 full 
synth and so far I haven't registered a noticeable loss (maybe an 8th qt) on 
the dipstick with about 500 mi.  I always have a drip or two on the ground 
when parked, and I assume at least a little when driving, so that accounts 
for a little loss.  I like the Redline, and it is packed full of the ZDDP 
that our flat tappet engines love.

Gordie Bird
'62 MGA (Ottawa bound with 80psi compression in #3)



--------------------------------------------------
From: "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:53 PM
To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?

> I don't buy that oval story. The whole idea is to keep the piston square 
> in
> the bore, so the rings seal. You oval out the bore, the rings are circular
> -- the only way they can seal is to cock the piston, which can't happen
> because there are 3 rings, not one.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 7/7/14 9:20 AM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk@godblessthe.us wrote:
>
>> Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The 
>> current
>> iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her. But she sips 
>> oil
>> modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for my 59 Land Rover told 
>> me
>> that most machine shops and rebuilders machine the cylinder walls wrong.
>> They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the bottom 
>> of
>> the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the driveshaft 
>> and
>> connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.
>>
>>
>>
>> So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow less
>> oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?
>>
>>
>>
>> Also by now, I'm figuring she has finished running in and plan to change
>> oil/filter.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "We live in the greatest nation in the history of the world," he pleaded. 
>> "I
>> hope you'll join with me as we try to change it." Barrie Obama
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "FrankK" <frankk12@verizon.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2014 14:39:02 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] F1 Groupies
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I have made plans and purchased tickets, very expensive tickets ($500 each)
for the F1 race in Houston at COTA next November.  Is there a remote
possibility of acquiring pit passes? I know some of you listers work the F1
races and may have some information that might lead me to score two pit
passes. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Frank Krajewski
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2014 11:52:18 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Thread-Index: Ac+aFJNm/8lPTrRX4EGjicRdpcSIsQ==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
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Status: RO

Another synthetic oil option is Mobil1 15w50. This particular weight (and
none other) is designed for flat tappet engines, with 1200ppm phosphorus and
1300ppm zinc. I mention it because it may be easier to find locally than
Redline, Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs or other specialty oils -- most auto stores
carry Mobil1. 


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 7/7/14 11:26 AM, gordies garage at mg_garage@comcast.net wrote:

> I'm with you Max, I don't buy the oval story.
> In fact, when I took my 1622 apart, my machinist said that my cylinders were
> not oval, and at .030 over, I didn't want to bore any more if not necessary.
> Honed cylinders and reassembled with same pistons and new rings.  After run
> in I discovered that my #3 cyl was registering 80psi compression (other
> three were 150).  Carefully removed #3 piston and found all rings with the
> gap at 9o'clock.  Presumed that this was the problem, and re-clocked the
> rings.  Re-assembled and compression was 150, just like other three.
> Checked again after first short drive and found it at 80psi.  My theory is
> that the cyl is slightly oval, enough that the rings 'center' themselves in
> a short time.
> Current solution is a 3 main bearing 1800 sitting on a stand awaiting a
> rebuild, then I will look further into the 1622.
> 
> To the point of the thread.  In my '62 MGA, I have pretty much always used a
> qt of oil every 500 - 700 mi.  Latest oil change was with Redline 20w50 full
> synth and so far I haven't registered a noticeable loss (maybe an 8th qt) on
> the dipstick with about 500 mi.  I always have a drip or two on the ground
> when parked, and I assume at least a little when driving, so that accounts
> for a little loss.  I like the Redline, and it is packed full of the ZDDP
> that our flat tappet engines love.
> 
> Gordie Bird
> '62 MGA (Ottawa bound with 80psi compression in #3)
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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2014 11:53:42 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] F1 Groupies
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Houston? I think it's in Austin.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/7/14 11:39 AM, FrankK at frankk12@verizon.net wrote:

> I have made plans and purchased tickets, very expensive tickets ($500 each)
> for the F1 race in Houston at COTA next November.  Is there a remote
> possibility of acquiring pit passes? I know some of you listers work the F1
> races and may have some information that might lead me to score two pit
> passes. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
> Frank Krajewski
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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Subject: [Mgs] Big OOPS!
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My previous post should have said Austin not Houston!
Frank
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From: "Chad" <mgb72@airmail.net>
To: "'Max Heim'" <mvheim@sonic.net>, "'MG List'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <004301cf99ff$61a75460$24f5fd20$@us>
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 14:51:34 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
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Status: RO

I run Valvoline VR-1, for the ZDDP  Have run many miles on this oil, solid
oil pressure.
Chad '72 B

-----Original Message-----
From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 11:54 AM
To: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?

I don't buy that oval story. The whole idea is to keep the piston square in
the bore, so the rings seal. You oval out the bore, the rings are circular
-- the only way they can seal is to cock the piston, which can't happen
because there are 3 rings, not one.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 7/7/14 9:20 AM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk@godblessthe.us wrote:

> Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The 
> current iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her. 
> But she sips oil modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for 
> my 59 Land Rover told me that most machine shops and rebuilders machine
the cylinder walls wrong.
> They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the 
> bottom of the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the 
> driveshaft and connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.
> 
>  
> 
> So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow 
> less oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?
> 
>  
> 
> Also by now, I'm figuring she has finished running in and plan to 
> change oil/filter.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> "We live in the greatest nation in the history of the world," he 
> pleaded. "I hope you'll join with me as we try to change it." Barrie 
> Obama
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+1

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
From: "Chad" <mgb72@airmail.net>
Date: 2014 7 7 2:55 PM
To: "'Max Heim'" <mvheim@sonic.net>,"'MG List'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
CC:

I run Valvoline VR-1, for the ZDDP  Have run many miles on this oil, solid
oil pressure.
Chad '72
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
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Status: RO

Valvoline zr 1 20w-50 full synthetic has zddp and is available from amazon.
Because a "case"  (6 bottles) is over $35 shipping is free

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: 2014 7 7 1:54 PM
To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
CC:

Another synthetic oil option is Mobil1 15w50. This particular weight
(and<br/>none other) is designed for flat tappet engines, with 1200ppm
phosphorus and<br/>1300ppm zinc. I mention it because it may be easier to find
locally
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
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Thats valvoline vr 1 full synthetic, not zr 1. Sorry
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To: Chad <mgb72@airmail.net>, 'Max Heim' <mvheim@sonic.net>,  'MG List'
 <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <004301cf99ff$61a75460$24f5fd20$@us>
 <CFE01EA8.51D9C%mvheim@sonic.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
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Status: RO

I run the VR-1 20W50 for the ZDDP.

CR
On 7/7/2014 2:51 PM, Chad wrote:
> I run Valvoline VR-1, for the ZDDP  Have run many miles on this oil, solid
> oil pressure.
> Chad '72 B
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 11:54 AM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
>
> I don't buy that oval story. The whole idea is to keep the piston square in
> the bore, so the rings seal. You oval out the bore, the rings are circular
> -- the only way they can seal is to cock the piston, which can't happen
> because there are 3 rings, not one.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
> on 7/7/14 9:20 AM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk@godblessthe.us wrote:
>
>> Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The
>> current iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her.
>> But she sips oil modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for
>> my 59 Land Rover told me that most machine shops and rebuilders machine
> the cylinder walls wrong.
>> They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the
>> bottom of the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the
>> driveshaft and connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.
>>
>>   
>>
>> So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow
>> less oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?
>>
>>   
>>
>> Also by now, I'm figuring she has finished running in and plan to
>> change oil/filter.
>>
>>   
>>
>>   
>>
>> "We live in the greatest nation in the history of the world," he
>> pleaded. "I hope you'll join with me as we try to change it." Barrie
>> Obama
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1404756001.4242.mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 19:56:59 -0400
 reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

> Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The 
> current
> iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her. But she sips 
> oil
> modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for my 59 Land Rover told 
> me
> that most machine shops and rebuilders machine the cylinder walls wrong.
> They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the bottom 
> of
> the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the driveshaft 
> and
> connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.
>
> So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow less
> oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?

How would a machine shop make part of the bore oval? Many years ago Honda 
did something like that with their motorcycle racing engines but it was 
extremely expensive (they also made oval pistons!). And it was likely not a 
good cost/benefit ratio.

Anyway, how did you break in the engine? There are two camps - the 'baby' it 
for many hundreds of miles and the 'run it hard right away to seat the 
rings'. See: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

And I doubt that an engine that burns regular oil would burn less if 
switched to synthetic oil. A higher viscosity may help it burn a little 
less. Maybe.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 17:17:29 -0700
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

While we are talking about oil ....

I searched on Amazon.com for oil and saw a brand I had never seen
before: "Royal Purple".

Does anyone have any comments about this brand? They have a 20W50
synthetic oil which has added Zinc and Phosphorous.

Simon
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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2014 17:35:02 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Thread-Index: Ac+aRHR/DPUtfsO5Tk61XT3f6Oa7dA==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
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Status: RO

I know muscle car guys that use it. But I haven't seen the documentation on
it. I have the spec sheet for the Mobil1, which is why I feel I can
recommend it.

on 7/7/14 5:17 PM, Simon Matthews at simon.d.matthews@gmail.com wrote:

> While we are talking about oil ....
> 
> I searched on Amazon.com for oil and saw a brand I had never seen
> before: "Royal Purple".
> 
> Does anyone have any comments about this brand? They have a 20W50
> synthetic oil which has added Zinc and Phosphorous.
> 
> Simon

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 18:41:43 -0700
References: <004301cf99ff$61a75460$24f5fd20$@us>
To: "crk@godblessthe.us" <crk@godblessthe.us>
Cc: "<mgs@autox.team.net>" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Cylinders are supposed to be round not oval. Furthermore using an automotive
boring bar I can't think of any way to bore them oval.
To check for the original bore size you check at the bottom of the bore. To
check for wear and oval wear check the bore near the top both length wise and
crosswise.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 7, 2014, at 9:20, "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us> wrote:
>
> Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The
current
> iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her. But she sips
oil
> modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for my 59 Land Rover told
me
> that most machine shops and rebuilders machine the cylinder walls wrong.
> They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the bottom of
> the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the driveshaft and
> connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.
>
>
>
> So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow less
> oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?
>
>
>
> Also by now, I'm figuring she has finished running in and plan to change
> oil/filter.
>
>
>
>
>
> "We live in the greatest nation in the history of the world," he pleaded.
"I
> hope you'll join with me as we try to change it." Barrie Obama
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

> And I doubt that an engine that burns regular oil would burn less if
> switched to synthetic oil. A higher viscosity may help it burn a little 
> less. Maybe.
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC

Burning, yes, but, could a synthetic prevent an engine from leaking as much? 
Clearly an MGA engine is going to leak a bit from the rear main where there 
is no seal, but do synthetics have any "swelling agent" to help seal 
elsewhere?  Thirty years ago, synth was thought to cause leakage from the 
seals, but that problem has been corrected (if it even existed).

Gordie
'62 MGA 
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 86, Issue 4, Re: Contents of Mgs digest
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Status: RO

Amsoil has Z-rod 20w-50 with ZDDP added for older engines.
 
Mike Olsen
 
 
In a message dated 7/7/2014 7:16:05 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
mgs-request@autox.team.net writes:

Re:  Contents of Mgs digest
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From: "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb@nni.com>
To: "Chad" <mgb72@airmail.net>,"'Max Heim'" <mvheim@sonic.net>, "'MG
 List'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 09:20:24 -0400
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Same here
 Gene
80 B


On Mon, 7 Jul 2014 14:51:34 -0500
 "Chad" <mgb72@airmail.net> wrote:
> I run Valvoline VR-1, for the ZDDP  Have run many miles
> on this oil, solid
> oil pressure.
> Chad '72 B
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Max Heim
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 11:54 AM
> To: MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
> 
> I don't buy that oval story. The whole idea is to keep
> the piston square in
> the bore, so the rings seal. You oval out the bore, the
> rings are circular
> -- the only way they can seal is to cock the piston,
> which can't happen
> because there are 3 rings, not one.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
> 
> 
> on 7/7/14 9:20 AM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk@godblessthe.us
> wrote:
> 
> > Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by
> "experts". The 
> > current iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand
> miles on her. 
> > But she sips oil modestly. The guy who did the machine
> shop work for 
> > my 59 Land Rover told me that most machine shops and
> rebuilders machine
> the cylinder walls wrong.
> > They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval
> toward the 
> > bottom of the stroke which considers the pull and push
> rotation of the 
> > driveshaft and connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the
> oil to allow 
> > less oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn
> off?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Also by now, I'm figuring she has finished running in
> and plan to 
> > change oil/filter.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > "We live in the greatest nation in the history of the
> world," he 
> > pleaded. "I hope you'll join with me as we try to
> change it." Barrie 
> > Obama
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1404756001.4242.mgs@autox.team.net>
 <46E32AD36BD34D67813150CCEA0B1EF1@EricJRussellPC>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 10:05:11 -0700
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Don't know how he supposedly did it; he may have canted it to one side and
then did the other. It may be something specific to VW engines as he is
widely known for his VW rebuilds.

I took it easly for the first 500 mile keeping it changing and under 4K then
I steped it up with harder accelerations and I will go up to 4500 rpm.

As to the synth oil, it was my understanding that synth doesn't burn.
Probably wrong about that.

Clayton

-----Original Message-----
From: Eric J Russell [mailto:ejrussell@mebtel.net] 
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 4:57 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Cc: crk@godblessthe.us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?

> Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The 
> current iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her. 
> But she sips oil modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for 
> my 59 Land Rover told me that most machine shops and rebuilders 
> machine the cylinder walls wrong.
> They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the 
> bottom of the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the 
> driveshaft and connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.
>
> So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow 
> less oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?

How would a machine shop make part of the bore oval? Many years ago Honda
did something like that with their motorcycle racing engines but it was
extremely expensive (they also made oval pistons!). And it was likely not a
good cost/benefit ratio.

Anyway, how did you break in the engine? There are two camps - the 'baby' it
for many hundreds of miles and the 'run it hard right away to seat the
rings'. See: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

And I doubt that an engine that burns regular oil would burn less if
switched to synthetic oil. A higher viscosity may help it burn a little
less. Maybe.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 12:25:31 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>, MGS
  <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <004301cf99ff$61a75460$24f5fd20$@us>
 <CAEUYfyMJLEc23jabvykBmEcw3JiB0tFtk8rjPW4XFC_Cd_bL5A@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

That used to be called"Royal Purple Titan," AIR.

CR
On 7/7/2014 7:17 PM, Simon Matthews wrote:
> While we are talking about oil ....
>
> I searched on Amazon.com for oil and saw a brand I had never seen
> before: "Royal Purple".
>
> Does anyone have any comments about this brand? They have a 20W50
> synthetic oil which has added Zinc and Phosphorous.
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From: "Ron King" <ronking@sbcglobal.net>
To: <ccrobins@ktc.com>, "'Simon Matthews'" <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>,
 "'MGS'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <004301cf99ff$61a75460$24f5fd20$@us>
 <CAEUYfyMJLEc23jabvykBmEcw3JiB0tFtk8rjPW4XFC_Cd_bL5A@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 10:37:39 -0700
Thread-Index: AQKSc34SnN+fyCwO1FPjDdV9WaRrowH6xVeCAxXkgXmZ6Dl8YA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

This "Royal Purple" reminds me of when Union 76 used to market a purple
motor oil called "Royal Triton".

Ron King
'71 MGB

-----Original Message-----
From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charley & Peggy
Robinson
Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 10:26 AM
To: Simon Matthews; MGS
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?

That used to be called"Royal Purple Titan," AIR.

CR
On 7/7/2014 7:17 PM, Simon Matthews wrote:
> While we are talking about oil ....
>
> I searched on Amazon.com for oil and saw a brand I had never seen
> before: "Royal Purple".
>
> Does anyone have any comments about this brand? They have a 20W50 
> synthetic oil which has added Zinc and Phosphorous.
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 12:40:56 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: crk@godblessthe.us
References: <004301cf99ff$61a75460$24f5fd20$@us>
Cc: "mgs@Autox.Team.Net" <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I'm just curious; how many miles did you put on the engine between those 
3 rebuilds?

As to ovality; new pistons are oval somewhat.  It's called "cam 
ground."  The idea is that as they heat up they become round through 
heat expansion.  Different parts of the piston expand in different amounts.

I have a feeling your engine isn't broken in yet.  I'd put 20W50 VR-1 & 
a new oilf filter in the engine and take it on the road, driving it 
normally.  See how the oil consumption is after a couple more thousand 
miles.

CR


On 7/7/2014 11:20 AM, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The current
> iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her. But she sips oil
> modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for my 59 Land Rover told me
> that most machine shops and rebuilders machine the cylinder walls wrong.
> They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the bottom of
> the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the driveshaft and
> connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.
>
>   
>
> So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow less
> oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?
>
>   
>
> Also by now, I'm figuring she has finished running in and plan to change
> oil/filter.
>
>   
>
>   
>
> "We live in the greatest nation in the history of the world," he pleaded. "I
> hope you'll join with me as we try to change it." Barrie Obama
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 16:43:59 -0600
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To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>, MG <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Team.Net archives
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

For those of you who have gone to the archive link below, you probably
noticed that the last few months are missing and the archive is not getting
updated on a regular basis.

Sorry 'bout that, I still haven't tracked down the exact problem, but hope to have
it back to normal soon.

mjb.
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