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To: <crk@godblessthe.us>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <20160725.074633.14258.0@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
 <A52DCE4C122A487AB8ACE098BDDF4400@paul>
 <034901d1e8f4$665ed410$331c7c30$@godblessthe.us>
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2016 13:34:09 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] fuel pump problems, need help
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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If you run it when dry it should still chatter with either the inlet or =
the outlet port blocked, but slower than when both are open.  If you =
hold your thumb over the inlet, run it then stop it, there should still =
be a little suction left when you remove your thumb.  Likewise on the =
outlet there should still be a bit of pressure left.  If the non-return =
valves are faulty you won't get that.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs=20
  To: mgs@autox.team.net=20
  Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2016 6:20 PM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] fuel pump problems, need help


  Thanks Paul et al. Don't know on the response q's other than =
technically, you should receive two, one through mgs and the other =
directly to you. I've sucked and blown and I think there may be a leak =
on the pull. The diaphragm looks good and is pliable, but I don't know =
compared to a new one. There doesn't appear to be any cracks. I suspect =
some of the sealing is old and leaky. I have decent push, just sucky =
suck.

  C

  =20

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<BODY lang=3DEN-US link=3D#0563c1 bgColor=3Dwhite vLink=3D#954f72>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If you run it when dry it should still chatter with =
either the=20
inlet or the outlet port blocked,&nbsp;but slower than when both are =
open.&nbsp;=20
If you hold your thumb over the inlet, run it then stop it, there should =
still=20
be a little suction left when you remove your thumb.&nbsp; Likewise on =
the=20
outlet there should still be a bit of pressure left.&nbsp; If the =
non-return=20
valves are faulty you won't get that.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dmgs@autox.team.net =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">Clayton Kirkwood=20
  via Mgs</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dmgs@autox.team.net=20
  href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, July 28, 2016 =
6:20=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Mgs] fuel pump =
problems,=20
  need help</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DWordSection1>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Thanks =
Paul et al.=20
  Don=92t know on the response q=92s other than technically, you should =
receive two,=20
  one through mgs and the other directly to you. I=92ve sucked and blown =
and I=20
  think there may be a leak on the pull. The diaphragm looks good and is =

  pliable, but I don=92t know compared to a new one. There doesn=92t =
appear to be=20
  any cracks. I suspect some of the sealing is old and leaky. I have =
decent=20
  push, just sucky suck.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: =
11pt">C<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: =
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 21 00:49:28 2016
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Subject: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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My 62mga is having drinking problems. I put new fiber seals on I my carbs
and they are leaking. I dare not tighten any further as they are obviously
brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak the fibers in oil? 


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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>My 62mga is having drinking problems. I put new fiber =
seals on I my carbs and they are leaking. I dare not tighten any further =
as they are obviously brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak =
the fibers in oil? <o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
From: Barney Gaylord via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
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I recommend using Teflon O-rings in place of the original cork seals, 
no drip, no leak, no stick even after long storage, good for 
decades.  Find lots of SU carburetor service information for MGs 
here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm


At 09:22 PM 8/20/2016 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>....
>My 62mga is having drinking problems. I put new fiber seals on I my 
>carbs and they are leaking. I dare not tighten any further as they 
>are obviously brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak the 
>fibers in oil?
>....

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 21 20:07:33 2016
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To: "'Barney Gaylord'" <barneymg@mgaguru.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <008001d1fb63$9cd78880$d6869980$@godblessthe.us> 
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 12:52:57 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Barney. However, the point of leak is at the banjo bolts in the fuel
line. Sorry I wasn't clear.

C

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Barney Gaylord [mailto:barneymg@mgaguru.com]
> Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 10:32 AM
> To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
> 
> I recommend using Teflon O-rings in place of the original cork seals, no
drip, no
> leak, no stick even after long storage, good for decades.  Find lots of SU
> carburetor service information for MGs
> here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm
> 
> 
> At 09:22 PM 8/20/2016 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
> >....
> >My 62mga is having drinking problems. I put new fiber seals on I my
> >carbs and they are leaking. I dare not tighten any further as they are
> >obviously brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak the fibers
> >in oil?
> >....


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Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 17:55:45 -0400
To: <crk@godblessthe.us>,<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <008001d1fb63$9cd78880$d6869980$@godblessthe.us>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
From: Barney Gaylord via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

In that case, use new fiber seal washers and a BIG wrench.  They need 
to be very tight.  The big banjo bolt and threads will take a lot of 
torque.  If you ultimately over do it, end result may be a broken 
float cover, but it takes a lot of torque to do that.


At 12:52 PM 8/21/2016 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
>Thanks Barney. However, the point of leak is at the banjo bolts in the fuel
>line. Sorry I wasn't clear.
>....


> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Barney Gaylord [mailto:barneymg@mgaguru.com]
> > Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 10:32 AM
> > To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
> >
> > I recommend using Teflon O-rings in place of the original cork 
> seals, no drip, no
> > leak, no stick even after long storage, good for decades.  Find lots of SU
> > carburetor service information for MGs
> > here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm


> > At 09:22 PM 8/20/2016 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
> > >....
> > >My 62mga is having drinking problems. I put new fiber seals on I my
> > >carbs and they are leaking. I dare not tighten any further as they are
> > >obviously brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak the fibers
> > >in oil?
> > >....

_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 22:29:50 -0400
To: crk@godblessthe.us, MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
From: Peter Chast via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1024063908052518530==

--089e012287209719b5053a9fd2f2

copper gaskets like a brake line?


On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 10:28 PM, Peter Chast <pchastnow@gmail.com> wrote:

> copper gaskets like a brake line?
>
> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 3:52 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <
> mgs@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Barney. However, the point of leak is at the banjo bolts in the
>> fuel
>> line. Sorry I wasn't clear.
>>
>> C
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: Barney Gaylord [mailto:barneymg@mgaguru.com]
>> > Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 10:32 AM
>> > To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
>> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
>> >
>> > I recommend using Teflon O-rings in place of the original cork seals, no
>> drip, no
>> > leak, no stick even after long storage, good for decades.  Find lots of
>> SU
>> > carburetor service information for MGs
>> > here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm
>> >
>> >
>> > At 09:22 PM 8/20/2016 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>> > >....
>> > >My 62mga is having drinking problems. I put new fiber seals on I my
>> > >carbs and they are leaking. I dare not tighten any further as they are
>> > >obviously brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak the fibers
>> > >in oil?
>> > >....
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchastnow@gmail.co
>> m
>>
>
>

--089e012287209719b5053a9fd2f2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-size:16px">copper gaskets like a brake=
 line?</span><br><div><span style=3D"font-size:16px"><br></span></div></div=
><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Aug 21, =
2016 at 10:28 PM, Peter Chast <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:pchas=
tnow@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">pchastnow@gmail.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:=
<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-lef=
t:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">copper gaskets like a b=
rake line?</div><div class=3D"HOEnZb"><div class=3D"h5"><div class=3D"gmail=
_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 3:52 PM, Cla=
yton Kirkwood via Mgs <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.tea=
m.net" target=3D"_blank">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><block=
quote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc=
 solid;padding-left:1ex">Thanks Barney. However, the point of leak is at th=
e banjo bolts in the fuel<br>
line. Sorry I wasn&#39;t clear.<br>
<br>
C<br>
<br>
&gt; -----Original Message-----<br>
&gt; From: Barney Gaylord [mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:barneymg@mgaguru.com" t=
arget=3D"_blank">barneymg@mgaguru.com</a>]<br>
&gt; Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 10:32 AM<br>
&gt; To: <a href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us" target=3D"_blank">crk@godble=
ssthe.us</a>; <a href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">mgs@a=
utox.team.net</a><br>
&gt; Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn&#39;t be happening<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; I recommend using Teflon O-rings in place of the original cork seals, =
no<br>
drip, no<br>
&gt; leak, no stick even after long storage, good for decades.=C2=A0 Find l=
ots of SU<br>
&gt; carburetor service information for MGs<br>
&gt; here: <a href=3D"http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm" rel=3D"nore=
ferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carb<wbr>s/carb.htm</a>=
<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; At 09:22 PM 8/20/2016 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:<br>
&gt; &gt;....<br>
&gt; &gt;My 62mga is having drinking problems. I put new fiber seals on I m=
y<br>
&gt; &gt;carbs and they are leaking. I dare not tighten any further as they=
 are<br>
&gt; &gt;obviously brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak the fi=
bers<br>
&gt; &gt;in oil?<br>
&gt; &gt;....<br>
<br>
<br>
______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Mgs@autox.team.net<=
/a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.htm<wbr>l</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchastnow=
@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mail=
man/<wbr>options/mgs/pchastnow@gmail.co<wbr>m</a><br>
</blockquote></div><br></div>
</div></div></blockquote></div><br></div>

--089e012287209719b5053a9fd2f2--

--===============1024063908052518530==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

--===============1024063908052518530==--

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Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2016 07:55:01 -0400
To: Peter Chast <pchastnow@gmail.com>,crk@godblessthe.us, <mgs@autox.team.net>
 mail.com>
References: <008001d1fb63$9cd78880$d6869980$@godblessthe.us>
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 please include it with any abuse report
 [64.134.65.111]:62820
Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
From: Barney Gaylord via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5133125156654620418==
	boundary="=====================_667865968==.ALT"

--=====================_667865968==.ALT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Seal washers on the carb fuel feed banjo fittings=20
should be fiber washers.  The banjo fittings are=20
polarized, counterbored on one side and flat on=20
the other side.  Flat side must go toward the=20
float cover while counterbored side goes under the bolt head.


At 10:29 PM 8/21/2016 -0400, Peter Chast via Mgs wrote:
>copper gaskets like a brake line?


>On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 10:28 PM, Peter Chast=20
>copper gaskets like a brake line?


>On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 3:52 PM, Clayton=20
>Thanks Barney. However, the point of leak is at the banjo bolts in the fuel
>line. Sorry I wasn't clear.
>....


> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Barney Gaylord [mailto:barneymg@mgaguru.com]
> > Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 10:32 AM
> > To:=20
> > Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
> >
> > I recommend using Teflon O-rings in place of the original cork seals, no
>drip, no
> > leak, no stick even after long storage, good for decades.=C2  Find lots=
 of SU
> > carburetor service information for MGs
> > here:=20
>=
 <http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm>http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/c=
arb.htm


> > At 09:22 PM 8/20/2016 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
> > >....
> > >My 62mga is having drinking problems. I put new fiber seals on I my
> > >carbs and they are leaking. I dare not tighten any further as they are
> > >obviously brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak the fibers
> > >in oil?
> > >....

--=====================_667865968==.ALT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<body>
Seal washers on the carb fuel feed banjo fittings should be fiber
washers.&nbsp; The banjo fittings are polarized, counterbored on one side
and flat on the other side.&nbsp; Flat side must go toward the float
cover while counterbored side goes under the bolt head.<br><br>
<br>
At 10:29 PM 8/21/2016 -0400, Peter Chast via Mgs wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">copper gaskets like a brake
line?</blockquote><br><br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 10:28
PM, Peter Chast
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:pchastnow@gmail.com">pchastnow@gmail.com</a>&gt;
wrote:<br>

<dl>
<dd>copper gaskets like a brake line?</blockquote>
</dl><br><br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">
<dl>
<dd>On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 3:52 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&gt;
wrote:<br>

<dl>
<dd>Thanks Barney. However, the point of leak is at the banjo bolts in
the fuel<br>

<dd>line. Sorry I wasn't clear.<br>
....</blockquote>
</dl>
</dl><br><br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">
<dl>
<dl>
<dd>&gt; -----Original Message-----<br>

<dd>&gt; From: Barney Gaylord
[<a href=3D"mailto:barneymg@mgaguru.com" eudora=3D"autourl">
mailto:barneymg@mgaguru.com</a>]<br>

<dd>&gt; Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 10:32 AM<br>

<dd>&gt; To: <a href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a>;
<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>

<dd>&gt; Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening<br>

<dd>&gt;<br>

<dd>&gt; I recommend using Teflon O-rings in place of the original cork
seals, no<br>

<dd>drip, no<br>

<dd>&gt; leak, no stick even after long storage, good for decades.=C2&nbsp;
Find lots of SU<br>

<dd>&gt; carburetor service information for MGs<br>

<dd>&gt; here:
<a href=3D"http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm">
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm</a></blockquote>
</dl>
</dl><br><br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">
<dl>
<dl>
<dd>&gt; At 09:22 PM 8/20/2016 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs
wrote:<br>

<dd>&gt; &gt;....<br>

<dd>&gt; &gt;My 62mga is having drinking problems. I put new fiber seals
on I my<br>

<dd>&gt; &gt;carbs and they are leaking. I dare not tighten any further
as they are<br>

<dd>&gt; &gt;obviously brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak
the fibers<br>

<dd>&gt; &gt;in oil?<br>

<dd>&gt; &gt;....
</dl>
</dl></blockquote></body>
</html>

--=====================_667865968==.ALT--


--===============5133125156654620418==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

--===============5133125156654620418==--

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Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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No. I have 4 new fibers surrounding the banjos at the carb input. While =
I followed Barney=E2=80=99s tightening recommendation, I still seem to =
be leaking there and possibly at the flex tubing connection, and I =
really cranked good, to the point of no more turning. Still a little on =
the bowl to carb  body underneath on one side with all new rubbers =
there. I took apart and ensured that the bits were correctly ordered in =
the bodies with new corks, oiled and t-shirt scrubbed jets. I guess a =
little more finagling.=20

=20

C

=20

From: Peter Chast [mailto:pchastnow@gmail.com]=20
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 7:30 PM
To: crk@godblessthe.us; MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening

=20

copper gaskets like a brake line?

=20

=20

On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 10:28 PM, Peter Chast <pchastnow@gmail.com =

copper gaskets like a brake line?

=20

On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 3:52 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =

Thanks Barney. However, the point of leak is at the banjo bolts in the =
fuel
line. Sorry I wasn't clear.

C

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Barney Gaylord [mailto:barneymg@mgaguru.com =
> Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 10:32 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
>
> I recommend using Teflon O-rings in place of the original cork seals, =
no
drip, no
> leak, no stick even after long storage, good for decades.  Find lots =
of SU
> carburetor service information for MGs
> here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm
>
>
> At 09:22 PM 8/20/2016 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
> >....
> >My 62mga is having drinking problems. I put new fiber seals on I my
> >carbs and they are leaking. I dare not tighten any further as they =
are
> >obviously brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak the =
fibers
> >in oil?
> >....


_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchastnow@gmail.com

=20

=20


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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>No. I have 4 =
new fibers surrounding the banjos at the carb input. While I followed =
Barney=E2=80=99s tightening recommendation, I still seem to be leaking =
there and possibly at the flex tubing connection, and I really cranked =
good, to the point of no more turning. Still a little on the bowl to =
carb=C2=A0 body underneath on one side with all new rubbers there. I =
took apart and ensured that the bits were correctly ordered in the =
bodies with new corks, oiled and t-shirt scrubbed jets. I guess a little =
more finagling. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>C<o:p></o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><div style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid blue =
1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt'><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Peter Chast [mailto:pchastnow@gmail.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, August =
21, 2016 7:30 PM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; MG list =
&lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that =
shouldn't be happening<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>copper =
gaskets like a brake line?<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On Sun, =
Aug 21, 2016 at 10:28 PM, Peter Chast &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:pchastnow@gmail.com" =
target=3D"_blank">pchastnow@gmail.com</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p><blockquote style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid =
#CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>copper gaskets like a brake =
line?<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On Sun, =
Aug 21, 2016 at 3:52 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p><blockquote style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid =
#CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks =
Barney. However, the point of leak is at the banjo bolts in the =
fuel<br>line. Sorry I wasn't clear.<br><br>C<br><br>&gt; -----Original =
Message-----<br>&gt; From: Barney Gaylord [mailto:<a =
href=3D"mailto:barneymg@mgaguru.com" =
target=3D"_blank">barneymg@mgaguru.com</a>]<br>&gt; Sent: Sunday, August =
21, 2016 10:32 AM<br>&gt; To: <a href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us" =
target=3D"_blank">crk@godblessthe.us</a>; <a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>&gt; Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb =
leaks that shouldn't be happening<br>&gt;<br>&gt; I recommend using =
Teflon O-rings in place of the original cork seals, no<br>drip, =
no<br>&gt; leak, no stick even after long storage, good for =
decades.&nbsp; Find lots of SU<br>&gt; carburetor service information =
for MGs<br>&gt; here: <a =
href=3D"http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm" =
target=3D"_blank">http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm</a><br>&gt;<br=
>&gt;<br>&gt; At 09:22 PM 8/20/2016 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:<br>&gt; &gt;....<br>&gt; &gt;My 62mga is having drinking =
problems. I put new fiber seals on I my<br>&gt; &gt;carbs and they are =
leaking. I dare not tighten any further as they are<br>&gt; =
&gt;obviously brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak the =
fibers<br>&gt; &gt;in oil?<br>&gt; =
&gt;....<br><br><br>_______________________________________________<br><b=
r><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>Archive: <a =
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target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchastnow@gma=
il.com</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div><p =
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Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2016 18:12:26 -0400
References: <mailman.2.1471888801.23786.mgs@autox.team.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
From: Allen Hess via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net


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Going along with what Barney said, repeated tightening can pull the =
thread proud of the surface. Don=92t know if that would happen in this =
case but it does occur for example with oil pan to block, aluminum =
transmission case, etc. So be sure the mating surfaces are flat.

On Aug 22, 2016, at 2:00 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Seal washers on the carb fuel feed banjo fittings should be fiber =
washers.  The banjo fittings are polarized, counterbored on one side and =
flat on the other side.  Flat side must go toward the float cover while =
counterbored side goes under the bolt head.


--Apple-Mail=_FFF90303-F8ED-4E36-A127-FDF86481F0CD
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dwindows-1252"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;">Going =
along with what Barney said, repeated tightening can pull the thread =
proud of the surface. Don=92t know if that would happen in this case but =
it does occur for example with oil pan to block, aluminum transmission =
case, etc. So be sure the mating surfaces are flat.<div><br><div><div>On =
Aug 22, 2016, at 2:00 PM, <a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs-request@autox.team.net">mgs-request@autox.team.net</a> =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><span style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; =
font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; =
letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: =
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: =
none; display: inline !important;">Seal washers on the carb fuel feed =
banjo fittings should be fiber washers.&nbsp; The banjo fittings are =
polarized, counterbored on one side and flat on the other side.&nbsp; =
Flat side must go toward the float cover while counterbored side goes =
under the bolt head.</span><br style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; =
font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: =
normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: auto; =
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normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px;"></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>=

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References: <008001d1fb63$9cd78880$d6869980$@godblessthe.us>
 <CDC49833-EFC8-4552-A516-EA2D5AC014BF@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2016 17:07:27 -0700
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Yes. I've looked at Barney's web page, verified my carb assembly is correct
w/ exception of possibly two copper washers inside the assembly. I've
mighty-torqued:<) the hose to bowl top and the hose to banjo joints with
limited success. I tightened the bowl to carb pieces  largely with success
but still have leakages. The fiber washers on the lipped banjo to hose
connections are seeming a bit wide to fit well inside the lip. I'll try
grinding the outer diameter down to fit in better.

 

C

 

From: W. David Houser [mailto:mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com] 
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2016 9:06 AM
To: crk@godblessthe.us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that shouldn't be happening

 

Where are you having the leaking problem? The gas line banjo bolt seals, the
float bowl mounting bolt or the jet assembly?

On Aug 21, 2016, at 12:22 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net

 

My 62mga is having drinking problems. I put new fiber seals on I my carbs
and they are leaking. I dare not tighten any further as they are obviously
brass vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak the fibers in oil? 

_______________________________________________

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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Yes. =
I&#8217;ve looked at Barney&#8217;s web page, verified my carb assembly =
is correct w/ exception of possibly two copper washers inside the =
assembly. I&#8217;ve mighty-torqued:&lt;) the hose to bowl top and the =
hose to banjo joints with limited success. I tightened the bowl to carb =
pieces&nbsp; largely with success but still have leakages. The fiber =
washers on the lipped banjo to hose connections are seeming a bit wide =
to fit well inside the lip. I&#8217;ll try grinding the outer diameter =
down to fit in better.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>C<o:p></o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><div style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid blue =
1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt'><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> W. =
David Houser [mailto:mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, =
August 22, 2016 9:06 AM<br><b>To:</b> =
crk@godblessthe.us<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] carb leaks that =
shouldn't be happening<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Where are =
you having the leaking problem? The gas line banjo bolt seals, the float =
bowl mounting bolt or the jet assembly?<o:p></o:p></p><div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On Aug 21, 2016, at 12:22 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>My 62mga is =
having drinking problems. I put new fiber seals on I my carbs and they =
are leaking. I dare not tighten any further as they are obviously brass =
vs aluminum. Any suggestions? Should I soak the fibers in oil?<span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p=
 class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:15.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'>___________=
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 27 19:10:09 2016
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Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2016 15:16:42 -0700
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Advice please, bad miss
From: Simon Matthews via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

We have a '71 MGB GT, which is largely original (even has the smog pump).

It has recently developed a bad miss. The miss occurs under some
throttle usage: it seems to idle OK. The miss starts happening quickly
after the car is started.

My first thought was fuel starvation, but I removed the pipe from the
fuel carburettor and turned on the ignition: plenty of fuel came out.
I checked the levels in the float chambers and I think they were OK.
They were both the same and about 3/4 inch from the top. This car has
an aftermarket fuel pump mounted on the inner fender.

I also wondered about head gasket, but the miss happens even if I
prevent any pressure building up in the cooling system by removing the
radiator cap.

I have recently replaced all the plug leads, distributor cap,
condenser and plugs. I have not replaced the coil, but the fact that
it seems to idle OK suggests that ignition is not the problem.

Where should I start with this car?

Simon
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 27 21:34:36 2016
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Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2016 17:39:25 -0700
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice please, bad miss
From: Simon Matthews via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Problem solved.

What's that old saw? 90% of fuel problems are ignition problems.

I swapped out the almost new condenser and the problem went away.

Simon

On Sat, Aug 27, 2016 at 3:16 PM, Simon Matthews
<simon.d.matthews@gmail.com> wrote:
> We have a '71 MGB GT, which is largely original (even has the smog pump).
>
> It has recently developed a bad miss. The miss occurs under some
> throttle usage: it seems to idle OK. The miss starts happening quickly
> after the car is started.
>
> My first thought was fuel starvation, but I removed the pipe from the
> fuel carburettor and turned on the ignition: plenty of fuel came out.
> I checked the levels in the float chambers and I think they were OK.
> They were both the same and about 3/4 inch from the top. This car has
> an aftermarket fuel pump mounted on the inner fender.
>
> I also wondered about head gasket, but the miss happens even if I
> prevent any pressure building up in the cooling system by removing the
> radiator cap.
>
> I have recently replaced all the plug leads, distributor cap,
> condenser and plugs. I have not replaced the coil, but the fact that
> it seems to idle OK suggests that ignition is not the problem.
>
> Where should I start with this car?
>
> Simon
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 07:27:31 -0500
To: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice please, bad miss
From: Richard Lindsay via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3683457563578314509==

--001a1140e4de304b31053b20df1a

Thanks for posting that, Simon! Read the stacks of workshop manuals and
they say, 'condensers almost never fail'. 'Almost' is a dangerous word and
it fogs our troubleshooting vision. But well done to you!

> What's that old saw? 90% of fuel problems are ignition problems.
>
> I swapped out the almost new condenser and the problem went away.
>
> Simon

And why after almost a year, am I writing this? Firstly, my MG TD
restoration awaits completion, but I uncovered it yesterday while cleaning
up the shop. Some of the old excitement returned. Secondly, my old '69
Silver Shadow is at a commercial shop getting new plugs, wires, cap, rotor,
coil, ballast, points, and condenser. And guess what; The 'almost new'
condenser had failed, leaving that honkin' big 6 liter V8 without enough
spark to start! Condensers DO fail, and when they do, diagnostics become
difficult because, "condensers almost never fail." Maybe the piles of
literature should read, "condensers almost never fail, except for the
poorly made replacements available in the 21st century."

-rick, with 6 Brirish cars, 3 Italian cars, 1 German, 1 Swedish, and 1
Japanese!

--001a1140e4de304b31053b20df1a
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<p dir=3D"ltr">Thanks for posting that, Simon! Read the stacks of workshop =
manuals and they say, &#39;condensers almost never fail&#39;. &#39;Almost&#=
39; is a dangerous word and it fogs our troubleshooting vision. But well do=
ne to you!</p>
<p dir=3D"ltr">&gt; What&#39;s that old saw? 90% of fuel problems are ignit=
ion problems.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; I swapped out the almost new condenser and the problem went away.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Simon</p>
<p dir=3D"ltr">And why after almost a year, am I writing this? Firstly, my =
MG TD restoration awaits completion, but I uncovered it yesterday while cle=
aning up the shop. Some of the old excitement returned. Secondly, my old &#=
39;69 Silver Shadow is at a commercial shop getting new plugs, wires, cap, =
rotor, coil, ballast, points, and condenser. And guess what; The &#39;almos=
t new&#39; condenser had failed, leaving that honkin&#39; big 6 liter V8 wi=
thout enough spark to start! Condensers DO fail, and when they do, diagnost=
ics become difficult because, &quot;condensers almost never fail.&quot; May=
be the piles of literature should read, &quot;condensers almost never fail,=
 except for the poorly made replacements available in the 21st century.&quo=
t;</p>
<p dir=3D"ltr">-rick, with 6 Brirish cars, 3 Italian cars, 1 German, 1 Swed=
ish, and 1 Japanese!</p>

--001a1140e4de304b31053b20df1a--

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_______________________________________________

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--===============3683457563578314509==--

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Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 10:06:34 -0400
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice please, bad miss
From: Stephen West-Fisher via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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That is the real point, back when most vehicles had them condensers =
didn=E2=80=99t fail. Now that they are all made as cheaply as possible =
(or are NOS) in very small quantities they fail relatively often. =
Earlier this summer I was fighting to bring my Land-Rover back to life =
after an overhaul =E2=80=93 bad condenser.

=20

Steve=20

=20

--

Stephen West-Fisher

N4IK

=20

From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard =
Lindsay via Mgs
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2016 8:28 AM
To: Simon Matthews
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice please, bad miss

=20

Maybe the piles of literature should read, "condensers almost never =
fail, except for the poorly made replacements available in the 21st =
century."

-rick, with 6 Brirish cars, 3 Italian cars, 1 German, 1 Swedish, and 1 =
Japanese!


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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>That is the real point, back when most vehicles had them condensers =
didn=E2=80=99t fail. Now that they are all made as cheaply as possible =
(or are NOS) in very small quantities they fail relatively often. =
Earlier this summer I was fighting to bring my Land-Rover back to life =
after an overhaul =E2=80=93 bad condenser.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Steve <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:Consolas;color:#1F497D'>--<o:p></o:=
p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:Consolas;color:#1F497D'>Stephen =
West-Fisher<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:Consolas;color:#1F497D'>N4IK<o:p></=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Richard =
Lindsay via Mgs<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, August 28, 2016 8:28 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> Simon Matthews<br><b>Cc:</b> mgs@autox.team.net =
List<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] Advice please, bad =
miss<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p>Maybe the piles of literature =
should read, &quot;condensers almost never fail, except for the poorly =
made replacements available in the 21st =
century.&quot;<o:p></o:p></p><p>-rick, with 6 Brirish cars, 3 Italian =
cars, 1 German, 1 Swedish, and 1 =
Japanese!<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <CAEUYfyOGUkqy9Mk5xM8bPZooydmGA-S6R6b=JSKaK2qqGohEsQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEUYfyO_YYNVkh28PX8LkfFk1L2gJ+zPMsac2C=ZUEa593cvfg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAOc+-dza76gvO+0y--jZinZWWzcXPfQ9k-eLbZ_Zxmvkv30W7Q@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 10:40:03 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/45.2.0
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice please, bad miss
From: David Ambrose via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Some years back, I started getting enough condenser failures that I 
fitted an electronic ignition module. That's turned out to be a good 
decision.


On 8/28/2016 5:27 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote:
>
> Thanks for posting that, Simon! Read the stacks of workshop manuals 
> and they say, 'condensers almost never fail'. 'Almost' is a dangerous 
> word and it fogs our troubleshooting vision. But well done to you!
>
> > What's that old saw? 90% of fuel problems are ignition problems.
> >
> > I swapped out the almost new condenser and the problem went away.
> >
> > Simon
>
> And why after almost a year, am I writing this? Firstly, my MG TD 
> restoration awaits completion, but I uncovered it yesterday while 
> cleaning up the shop. Some of the old excitement returned. Secondly, 
> my old '69 Silver Shadow is at a commercial shop getting new plugs, 
> wires, cap, rotor, coil, ballast, points, and condenser. And guess 
> what; The 'almost new' condenser had failed, leaving that honkin' big 
> 6 liter V8 without enough spark to start! Condensers DO fail, and when 
> they do, diagnostics become difficult because, "condensers almost 
> never fail." Maybe the piles of literature should read, "condensers 
> almost never fail, except for the poorly made replacements available 
> in the 21st century."
>
> -rick, with 6 Brirish cars, 3 Italian cars, 1 German, 1 Swedish, and 1 
> Japanese!
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/stargazer1@cox.net


--------------9D164A9C37CA67EC7B75196A
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<html>
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      http-equiv="Content-Type">
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  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p>Some years back, I started getting enough condenser failures that
      I fitted an electronic ignition module. That's turned out to be a
      good decision. <br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/28/2016 5:27 AM, Richard Lindsay
      via Mgs wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:CAOc+-dza76gvO+0y--jZinZWWzcXPfQ9k-eLbZ_Zxmvkv30W7Q@mail.gmail.com"
      type="cite">
      <p dir="ltr">Thanks for posting that, Simon! Read the stacks of
        workshop manuals and they say, 'condensers almost never fail'.
        'Almost' is a dangerous word and it fogs our troubleshooting
        vision. But well done to you!</p>
      <p dir="ltr">&gt; What's that old saw? 90% of fuel problems are
        ignition problems.<br>
        &gt;<br>
        &gt; I swapped out the almost new condenser and the problem went
        away.<br>
        &gt;<br>
        &gt; Simon</p>
      <p dir="ltr">And why after almost a year, am I writing this?
        Firstly, my MG TD restoration awaits completion, but I uncovered
        it yesterday while cleaning up the shop. Some of the old
        excitement returned. Secondly, my old '69 Silver Shadow is at a
        commercial shop getting new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil,
        ballast, points, and condenser. And guess what; The 'almost new'
        condenser had failed, leaving that honkin' big 6 liter V8
        without enough spark to start! Condensers DO fail, and when they
        do, diagnostics become difficult because, "condensers almost
        never fail." Maybe the piles of literature should read,
        "condensers almost never fail, except for the poorly made
        replacements available in the 21st century."</p>
      <p dir="ltr">-rick, with 6 Brirish cars, 3 Italian cars, 1 German,
        1 Swedish, and 1 Japanese!</p>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 31 21:47:30 2016
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To: "'Richard Lindsay'" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>,
 "'Simon Matthews'" <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
References: <CAEUYfyOGUkqy9Mk5xM8bPZooydmGA-S6R6b=JSKaK2qqGohEsQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2016 22:41:19 +0200
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 FILETIME=[F2AAC9E0:01D203C7]
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Advice please, bad miss
From: Hans Duinhoven via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Had a similar experience with my 1970 Puch moped. When the engine went on n=
ormal operational temperature, I heard a nasty bang noise and the engine lo=
st a lot of power. I managed to reach home.

Later when cold the engine started well again, but much sooner the engine p=
ower was lost again.

So I replaced the coil and the problem seamed to be away.

Quickly at the next longer run the engine started to show the very same iss=
ues.

I then replaced anything within the ignition, but not the coil of course.

The problem did not go away of course.

A good friend with lots of experience and parts got fed up with this nasty =
problem and replaced the entire ignition set.

Problem gone.

Had to pay him some $ 30 and I was allowed to keep the faulty set as well.

Replacing the coil again gave me a very nice spare set.

 

Cheers,

Hans

 

=E2=80=9971 BGT back on the road again after an MOT failure of the UJ joint=
 of the steering shaft and also some front suspension bushings were showing=
 to much play.

Another MOT failure was the demister did not work =E2=80=93 bit nasty job t=
o reconnect the hose again solved it nicely

Had a nice 230 miles run last Sunday and all went great

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs=

Verzonden: zondag 28 augustus 2016 14:28
Aan: Simon Matthews
CC: mgs@autox.team.net List
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Advice please, bad miss

 

Thanks for posting that, Simon! Read the stacks of workshop manuals and the=
y say, 'condensers almost never fail'. 'Almost' is a dangerous word and it =
fogs our troubleshooting vision. But well done to you!

> What's that old saw? 90% of fuel problems are ignition problems.
>
> I swapped out the almost new condenser and the problem went away.
>
> Simon

And why after almost a year, am I writing this? Firstly, my MG TD restorati=
on awaits completion, but I uncovered it yesterday while cleaning up the sh=
op. Some of the old excitement returned. Secondly, my old '69 Silver Shadow=
 is at a commercial shop getting new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, ballas=
t, points, and condenser. And guess what; The 'almost new' condenser had fa=
iled, leaving that honkin' big 6 liter V8 without enough spark to start! Co=
ndensers DO fail, and when they do, diagnostics become difficult because, "=
condensers almost never fail." Maybe the piles of literature should read, "=
condensers almost never fail, except for the poorly made replacements avail=
able in the 21st century."

-rick, with 6 Brirish cars, 3 Italian cars, 1 German, 1 Swedish, and 1 Japa=
nese!



---
Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware.=

https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DNL link=3Dblue vlink=
=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US=
 style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D=
'>Had a similar experience with my 1970 Puch moped. When the engine went on=
 normal operational temperature, I heard a nasty bang noise and the engine =
lost a lot of power. I managed to reach home.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Cali=
bri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Later when cold the engine started well ag=
ain, but much sooner the engine power was lost again.<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-fami=
ly:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>So I replaced the coil and the pro=
blem seamed to be away.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lan=
g=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";colo=
r:#1F497D'>Quickly at the next longer run the engine started to show the ve=
ry same issues.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-U=
S style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>I then replaced anything within the ignition, but not the coil of course=
=2E<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'f=
ont-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>The probl=
em did not go away of course.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><sp=
an lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif=
";color:#1F497D'>A good friend with lots of experience and parts got fed up=
 with this nasty problem and replaced the entire ignition set.<o:p></o:p></=
span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;=
font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Problem gone.<o:p></o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt=
;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Had to pay him some $ 30=
 and I was allowed to keep the faulty set as well.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:=
"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Replacing the coil again gave me a ve=
ry nice spare set.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DE=
N-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F=
497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US s=
tyle=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>=
Cheers,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=
=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Hans=
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font=
-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;<=
/o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:=
11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>=E2=80=9971 BGT ba=
ck on the road again after an MOT failure of the UJ joint of the steering s=
haft and also some front suspension bushings were showing to much play.<o:p=
></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-siz=
e:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Another MOT fail=
ure was the demister did not work =E2=80=93 bit nasty job to reconnect the =
hose again solved it nicely<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span=
 lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";=
color:#1F497D'>Had a nice 230 miles run last Sunday and all went great<o:p>=
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;fo=
nt-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>Van:</span></b><span style=3D'font-size:10=
=2E0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.te=
am.net] <b>Namens </b>Richard Lindsay via Mgs<br><b>Verzonden:</b> zondag 2=
8 augustus 2016 14:28<br><b>Aan:</b> Simon Matthews<br><b>CC:</b> mgs@autox=
=2Eteam.net List<br><b>Onderwerp:</b> Re: [Mgs] Advice please, bad miss<o:p=
></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p>Thanks for p=
osting that, Simon! Read the stacks of workshop manuals and they say, 'cond=
ensers almost never fail'. 'Almost' is a dangerous word and it fogs our tro=
ubleshooting vision. But well done to you!<o:p></o:p></p><p>&gt; What's tha=
t old saw? 90% of fuel problems are ignition problems.<br>&gt;<br>&gt; I sw=
apped out the almost new condenser and the problem went away.<br>&gt;<br>&g=
t; Simon<o:p></o:p></p><p>And why after almost a year, am I writing this? F=
irstly, my MG TD restoration awaits completion, but I uncovered it yesterda=
y while cleaning up the shop. Some of the old excitement returned. Secondly=
, my old '69 Silver Shadow is at a commercial shop getting new plugs, wires=
, cap, rotor, coil, ballast, points, and condenser. And guess what; The 'al=
most new' condenser had failed, leaving that honkin' big 6 liter V8 without=
 enough spark to start! Condensers DO fail, and when they do, diagnostics b=
ecome difficult because, &quot;condensers almost never fail.&quot; Maybe th=
e piles of literature should read, &quot;condensers almost never fail, exce=
pt for the poorly made replacements available in the 21st century.&quot;<o:=
p></o:p></p><p>-rick, with 6 Brirish cars, 3 Italian cars, 1 German, 1 Swed=
ish, and 1 Japanese!<o:p></o:p></p></div>
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