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From: Thomas Gunderson <thgun@comporium.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2021 06:20:14 -0400
To: Mga List <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Stick shift boot
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I have a rubber boot that has split in on of the folds. My boot has a metal ring at the top of the boot. I got a new boot from a vendor but it did not come with the metal ring. Can I transfer this ring to the new boot?

Thanks,
Tom Gunderson
1957 MGA 

Sent from my iPhone X



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Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2021 08:58:49 -0400
To: Thomas Gunderson <thgun@comporium.net>,Mga List <Mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <12B98F0B-3A7C-40DB-863A-1EEDF6897444@comporium.net>
 please include it with any abuse report
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stick shift boot
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4452161676582590826==
	boundary="=====================_88904890==.ALT"

--=====================_88904890==.ALT

Yup,

Loosen jam nut, remove shift knob and jam nut
Lift off old boot, remove trim ring.
Install trim ring on new boot, and install new boot
Reinstall lock nut and shift knob.
Orient the shift knob as preferred, and tighten the jam nut.

Bottom flange of the rubber boot should engage the hole in the tunnel.
Carpet should be cover the bottom of the rubber boot.
Only the convolutions of the rubber boot should be showing above the carpet.

This means you need to lift the center carpet section to install the 
rubber boot underneath, then put the carper back on top.  Front edge 
of the center carpet should be tucked under rear edge of the front 
carpet.  Rear edge of the center carpet sits on top of the rear carpet.

Bottom edges of the center carpet may sit flush with the floor, or if 
longer then they get tucked under the floor carpet.  Mine are longer, 
tucked under the floor carpet, and I staple the center carpet flanges 
to the floor boards to be secure.


At 06:20 AM 10/2/2021, Thomas Gunderson wrote:
>I have a rubber boot that has split in on of the folds. My boot has 
>a metal ring at the top of the boot. I got a new boot from a vendor 
>but it did not come with the metal ring. Can I transfer this ring to 
>the new boot?
>
>Thanks,
>Tom Gunderson
>1957 MGA
>....

--=====================_88904890==.ALT

<html>
<body>
<font size=3>Yup,<br><br>
Loosen jam nut, remove shift knob and jam nut<br>
Lift off old boot, remove trim ring.<br>
Install trim ring on new boot, and install new boot<br>
Reinstall lock nut and shift knob.<br>
Orient the shift knob as preferred, and tighten the jam nut.<br><br>
Bottom flange of the rubber boot should engage the hole in the
tunnel.<br>
Carpet should be cover the bottom of the rubber boot.<br>
Only the convolutions of the rubber boot should be showing above the
carpet.<br><br>
This means you need to lift the center carpet section to install the
rubber boot underneath, then put the carper back on top.&nbsp; Front edge
of the center carpet should be tucked under rear edge of the front
carpet.&nbsp; Rear edge of the center carpet sits on top of the rear
carpet.<br><br>
Bottom edges of the center carpet may sit flush with the floor, or if
longer then they get tucked under the floor carpet.&nbsp; Mine are
longer, tucked under the floor carpet, and I staple the center carpet
flanges to the floor boards to be secure.<br><br>
<br>
At 06:20 AM 10/2/2021, Thomas Gunderson wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">I have a rubber boot that has
split in on of the folds. My boot has a metal ring at the top of the
boot. I got a new boot from a vendor but it did not come with the metal
ring. Can I transfer this ring to the new boot?<br><br>
Thanks,<br>
Tom Gunderson<br>
1957 MGA <br>
....</font></blockquote></body>
</html>

--=====================_88904890==.ALT--


--===============4452161676582590826==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

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--===============4452161676582590826==--


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From: philip s jones <philip.s.jones@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stick shift boot
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From: Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 17:41:59 -0400
References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com>
To: dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radios
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct  5 00:35:49 2021
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From: <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com>
 <000b01d7b964$5dbfd480$193f7d80$@ranteer.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 08:33:27 +0200
Thread-Index: AQHbF02bfD5nET/KSJNhKpW7X3ywWgIxu6Noq6um3AA=
Content-Language: nl
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radios
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct  5 21:15:32 2021
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2021 07:57:02 -0400
From: Steve West-Fisher <steve@coastaldatasystems.com>
To: dave <dave@ranteer.com>
References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/1.4.11
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radios
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  6 04:03:48 2021
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SavedFromEmail: palte@gmx.net
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2021 11:52:09 +0200
Importance: normal
From: palte <palte@gmx.net>
To: h.duinhoven@planet.nl, 'dave' <dave@ranteer.com>, mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radios
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0049764617146287143==

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 Wed, 06 Oct 2021 03:17:53 -0700 (PDT)
References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com>
 <80bc9bb8a24b845d14b83f45f2ea98f5@coastaldatasystems.com>
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 05:17:40 -0500
To: Stephen West-Fisher <steve@coastaldatasystems.com>, 
 "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radios
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4144932737213779245==

--0000000000008782bb05cdac7590

> ...the LW band wouldn't have
broadcasting in the US
> ... you might be able to pick up some LW band] signals.
>
> Steve West-Fisher
> N4IK

...especially at night, if any entity is still using the LW band. Wiki
says, "*The frequency for longwave range from 30KHz to 279 KHz , covering a
median wavelength of 150 meters.*" That's really low frequency.
   The antenna in one's mobile phone is only a few millimeters long, or if
a tuned dipole, 3"-6" depending upon the mobile phone band being used.
Broadcast FM radio dipole antennas tune at about 4 feet long. We've all
seen those kinds of antennas in some cars' windshield glass. A dipole
antenna for 30KHz, the very bottom of the LW band, is 15,600 feet long!

Rick
WD4KIB

--0000000000008782bb05cdac7590
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">&gt; ...the LW band wouldn&#39;t have<div dir=3D"auto">br=
oadcasting in the US</div><div dir=3D"auto">&gt; ... you might be able to p=
ick up some LW band] signals.</div><div dir=3D"auto">&gt;</div><div dir=3D"=
auto">&gt; Steve West-Fisher</div><div dir=3D"auto">&gt; N4IK</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">...especially at night, if any entity=
 is still using the LW band. Wiki says, &quot;<i>The frequency for longwave=
 range from 30KHz to 279 KHz , covering a median wavelength of 150 meters.<=
/i>&quot; That&#39;s really low frequency.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =
=C2=A0The antenna in one&#39;s mobile phone is only a few millimeters long,=
 or if a tuned dipole, 3&quot;-6&quot; depending upon the mobile phone band=
 being used. Broadcast FM radio dipole antennas tune at about 4 feet long. =
We&#39;ve all seen those kinds of antennas in some cars&#39; windshield gla=
ss. A dipole antenna for 30KHz, the very bottom of the LW band, is 15,600 f=
eet long!=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</di=
v><div dir=3D"auto">WD4KIB</div></div>

--0000000000008782bb05cdac7590--

--===============4144932737213779245==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

--===============4144932737213779245==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  6 05:19:12 2021
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References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com>
 <80bc9bb8a24b845d14b83f45f2ea98f5@coastaldatasystems.com>
 <CAOc+-dxgrs-=SONjOL+7M7bQ3g3PYjmsgF=rAQ9fGTk7dJSzpg@mail.gmail.com>
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 06:04:09 -0500
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radios
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1611786419253639894==

--000000000000c2ae5b05cdad1be6

Yes friends, my words copied below are all but totally useless in this
circle of MG people, but sometimes talk of radios, frequencies and antennas
overcomes ham radio guys like me and we spew mostly useless and irrelevant
information. Please forgive.

Rick WD4KIB, General Class ...and two MGs

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 5:17 AM Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

> > ...the LW band wouldn't have
> broadcasting in the US
> > ... you might be able to pick up some LW band] signals.
> >
> > Steve West-Fisher
> > N4IK
>
> ...especially at night, if any entity is still using the LW band. Wiki
> says, "*The frequency for longwave range from 30KHz to 279 KHz , covering
> a median wavelength of 150 meters.*" That's really low frequency.
>    The antenna in one's mobile phone is only a few millimeters long, or if
> a tuned dipole, 3"-6" depending upon the mobile phone band being used.
> Broadcast FM radio dipole antennas tune at about 4 feet long. We've all
> seen those kinds of antennas in some cars' windshield glass. A dipole
> antenna for 30KHz, the very bottom of the LW band, is 15,600 feet long!
>
> Rick
> WD4KIB
>

--000000000000c2ae5b05cdad1be6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div>Yes friends, my words copied below are all but total=
ly useless in this circle of MG people, but sometimes talk of radios, frequ=
encies and antennas overcomes ham radio guys like me and we spew mostly use=
less and irrelevant information. Please forgive.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br=
></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick WD4KIB, General Class ...and two MGs</div><di=
v dir=3D"auto"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"=
 class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 5:17 AM Richard Lindsay &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com">richardolindsay@gmail.com</a>&gt; =
wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8e=
x;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">&gt; ...th=
e LW band wouldn&#39;t have<div dir=3D"auto">broadcasting in the US</div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">&gt; ... you might be able to pick up some LW band] signals=
.</div><div dir=3D"auto">&gt;</div><div dir=3D"auto">&gt; Steve West-Fisher=
</div><div dir=3D"auto">&gt; N4IK</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">...especially at night, if any entity is still using the LW band.=
 Wiki says, &quot;<i>The frequency for longwave range from 30KHz to 279 KHz=
 , covering a median wavelength of 150 meters.</i>&quot; That&#39;s really =
low frequency.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The antenna in one&#39;s=
 mobile phone is only a few millimeters long, or if a tuned dipole, 3&quot;=
-6&quot; depending upon the mobile phone band being used. Broadcast FM radi=
o dipole antennas tune at about 4 feet long. We&#39;ve all seen those kinds=
 of antennas in some cars&#39; windshield glass. A dipole antenna for 30KHz=
, the very bottom of the LW band, is 15,600 feet long!=C2=A0</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div><div dir=3D"auto">WD4KIB</d=
iv></div>
</blockquote></div></div></div>

--000000000000c2ae5b05cdad1be6--

--===============1611786419253639894==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

--===============1611786419253639894==--

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From: Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 07:52:01 -0400
References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com>
 <80bc9bb8a24b845d14b83f45f2ea98f5@coastaldatasystems.com>
 <CAOc+-dxgrs-=SONjOL+7M7bQ3g3PYjmsgF=rAQ9fGTk7dJSzpg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAOc+-dwbD0WRnOWmpO6tiPamtW-Sm_SNf4jNcffFm1ayDikt5Q@mail.gmail.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radios
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============8323076913741013223==
	boundary=Apple-Mail-4431FB5E-7090-4581-8F67-410796C62BB5
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


--Apple-Mail-4431FB5E-7090-4581-8F67-410796C62BB5
	charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

   Not at all useless, Rick.
   I have long wondered why the antennae in Annapolis MD, on the point south=
 of Naval Academy,  were so long, and your 15,600 ft measure explains it.=20=

Bob


> On Oct 6, 2021, at 7:04 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com> wr=
ote:
>=20
> Yes friends, my words copied below are all but totally useless in this cir=
cle of MG people, but sometimes talk of radios, frequencies and antennas ove=
rcomes ham radio guys like me and we spew mostly useless and irrelevant info=
rmation. Please forgive.
>=20
> Rick WD4KIB, General Class ...and two MGs
>=20
>> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 5:17 AM Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com> w=
rote:
>> > ...the LW band wouldn't have
>> broadcasting in the US
>> > ... you might be able to pick up some LW band] signals.
>> >
>> > Steve West-Fisher
>> > N4IK
>>=20
>> ...especially at night, if any entity is still using the LW band. Wiki sa=
ys, "The frequency for longwave range from 30KHz to 279 KHz , covering a med=
ian wavelength of 150 meters." That's really low frequency.
>>    The antenna in one's mobile phone is only a few millimeters long, or i=
f a tuned dipole, 3"-6" depending upon the mobile phone band being used. Bro=
adcast FM radio dipole antennas tune at about 4 feet long. We've all seen th=
ose kinds of antennas in some cars' windshield glass. A dipole antenna for 3=
0KHz, the very bottom of the LW band, is 15,600 feet long!=20
>>=20
>> Rick
>> WD4KIB
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com

--Apple-Mail-4431FB5E-7090-4581-8F67-410796C62BB5
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">&nb=
sp; &nbsp;Not at all useless, Rick.</div><div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp; &nbsp;I hav=
e long wondered why the antennae in Annapolis MD, on the point south of Nava=
l Academy, &nbsp;were so long, and your 15,600 ft measure explains it.&nbsp;=
</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<br>On Oct 6, 2021, at 7:04 AM, Richard Lindsay &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:richar=
dolindsay@gmail.com">richardolindsay@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><=
blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"auto"><div>Yes friends=
, my words copied below are all but totally useless in this circle of MG peo=
ple, but sometimes talk of radios, frequencies and antennas overcomes ham ra=
dio guys like me and we spew mostly useless and irrelevant information. Plea=
se forgive.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick WD4KIB, G=
eneral Class ...and two MGs</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br><div class=3D"gmail_q=
uote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Oct 6, 2021=
, 5:17 AM Richard Lindsay &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com">r=
ichardolindsay@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_=
quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1e=
x"><div dir=3D"auto">&gt; ...the LW band wouldn't have<div dir=3D"auto">broa=
dcasting in the US</div><div dir=3D"auto">&gt; ... you might be able to pick=
 up some LW band] signals.</div><div dir=3D"auto">&gt;</div><div dir=3D"auto=
">&gt; Steve West-Fisher</div><div dir=3D"auto">&gt; N4IK</div><div dir=3D"a=
uto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">...especially at night, if any entity is st=
ill using the LW band. Wiki says, "<i>The frequency for longwave range from 3=
0KHz to 279 KHz , covering a median wavelength of 150 meters.</i>" That's re=
ally low frequency.</div><div dir=3D"auto">&nbsp; &nbsp;The antenna in one's=
 mobile phone is only a few millimeters long, or if a tuned dipole, 3"-6" de=
pending upon the mobile phone band being used. Broadcast FM radio dipole ant=
ennas tune at about 4 feet long. We've all seen those kinds of antennas in s=
ome cars' windshield glass. A dipole antenna for 30KHz, the very bottom of t=
he LW band, is 15,600 feet long!&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div=
 dir=3D"auto">Rick</div><div dir=3D"auto">WD4KIB</div></div>
</blockquote></div></div></div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>________=
_______________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a h=
ref=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Don=
ate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.=
html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75</span><br><s=
pan></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs">=
http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve">http://autox.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsub=
scribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.co=
m">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com</a></span><br>=
</div></blockquote></body></html>=

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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--===============8323076913741013223==--

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 a=GGGinmgZRQXmVEG1E52S:22 a=qrIFiuKZe2vaD64auk6j:22
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 09:33:03 -0700
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
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From: David Ambrose <stargazer1@cox.net>
 cLuJfU4wcgGDmInVlAodAnkHHJvojebM9z2WTTp4jWSbZ77SDMUyfRIkBllTBVReIeBC6faIGUUKZw==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radios
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Not totally useless. I understood them. I'm not a ham, but I did a lot 
of shortwave listening as a youth.

On 10/6/2021 4:04 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote:
> Yes friends, my words copied below are all but totally useless in this 
> circle of MG people, but sometimes talk of radios, frequencies and 
> antennas overcomes ham radio guys like me and we spew mostly useless 
> and irrelevant information. Please forgive.
>
> Rick WD4KIB, General Class ...and two MGs
>
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 5:17 AM Richard Lindsay 
> <richardolindsay@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>     > ...the LW band wouldn't have
>     broadcasting in the US
>     > ... you might be able to pick up some LW band] signals.
>     >
>     > Steve West-Fisher
>     > N4IK
>
>     ...especially at night, if any entity is still using the LW band.
>     Wiki says, "/The frequency for longwave range from 30KHz to 279
>     KHz , covering a median wavelength of 150 meters./" That's really
>     low frequency.
>     Â  Â The antenna in one's mobile phone is only a few millimeters
>     long, or if a tuned dipole, 3"-6" depending upon the mobile phone
>     band being used. Broadcast FM radio dipole antennas tune at about
>     4 feet long. We've all seen those kinds of antennas in some cars'
>     windshield glass. A dipole antenna for 30KHz, the very bottom of
>     the LW band, is 15,600 feet long!
>
>     Rick
>     WD4KIB
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/stargazer1@cox.net
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>Not totally useless. I understood them. I'm not a ham, but I did
      a lot of shortwave listening as a youth. <br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/6/2021 4:04 AM, Richard Lindsay
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAOc+-dwbD0WRnOWmpO6tiPamtW-Sm_SNf4jNcffFm1ayDikt5Q@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="auto">
        <div>Yes friends, my words copied below are all but totally
          useless in this circle of MG people, but sometimes talk of
          radios, frequencies and antennas overcomes ham radio guys like
          me and we spew mostly useless and irrelevant information.
          Please forgive.</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Rick WD4KIB, General Class ...and two MGs</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
          <div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto">
            <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 5:17
              AM Richard Lindsay &lt;<a
                href="mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com"
                moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">richardolindsay@gmail.com</a>&gt;
              wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
              .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
              <div dir="auto">&gt; ...the LW band wouldn't have
                <div dir="auto">broadcasting in the US</div>
                <div dir="auto">&gt; ... you might be able to pick up
                  some LW band] signals.</div>
                <div dir="auto">&gt;</div>
                <div dir="auto">&gt; Steve West-Fisher</div>
                <div dir="auto">&gt; N4IK</div>
                <div dir="auto"><br>
                </div>
                <div dir="auto">...especially at night, if any entity is
                  still using the LW band. Wiki says, "<i>The frequency
                    for longwave range from 30KHz to 279 KHz , covering
                    a median wavelength of 150 meters.</i>" That's
                  really low frequency.</div>
                <div dir="auto">Â  Â The antenna in one's mobile phone is
                  only a few millimeters long, or if a tuned dipole,
                  3"-6" depending upon the mobile phone band being used.
                  Broadcast FM radio dipole antennas tune at about 4
                  feet long. We've all seen those kinds of antennas in
                  some cars' windshield glass. A dipole antenna for
                  30KHz, the very bottom of the LW band, is 15,600 feet
                  long!Â </div>
                <div dir="auto"><br>
                </div>
                <div dir="auto">Rick</div>
                <div dir="auto">WD4KIB</div>
              </div>
            </blockquote>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a>

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>

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</pre>
    </blockquote>
  </body>
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References: <000a01d7b963$8b944590$a2bcd0b0$@ranteer.com>
 <80bc9bb8a24b845d14b83f45f2ea98f5@coastaldatasystems.com>
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From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 10:06:26 -0700
To: "Robert's New iPad" <mgbobh@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Radios
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 5:00 AM Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>    Not at all useless, Rick.
>    I have long wondered why the antennae in Annapolis MD, on the point south of Naval Academy,  were so long, and your 15,600 ft measure explains it.

Submarine communications.

Simon
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From: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 12:48:09 -0700
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Brake Booster
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1880631068048672417==

--00000000000004d66905ce04e5d4

Who has added a brake booster to their MGB or MGB GT which initially did
not have one?  Do you have pictures of where you mounted and how you did
it.  I just put new pads and rotors on my 69 MGB GT.  It still takes a lot
of effort to apply the brakes.
Mike MacLean
1969 MGB GT
1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Bugeye)
1956 Austin Healey BN2 Lemans conversion

--00000000000004d66905ce04e5d4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Who has added a brake booster to their MGB or MGB GT whic=
h initially did not have one?=C2=A0 Do you have pictures of where you mount=
ed and how you did it.=C2=A0 I just put new pads and rotors on my 69 MGB GT=
.=C2=A0 It still takes a lot of effort to apply the brakes.=C2=A0=C2=A0<div=
 dir=3D"auto">Mike MacLean</div><div dir=3D"auto">1969 MGB GT</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Bugeye)</div><div dir=3D"auto">1956 Au=
stin Healey BN2 Lemans conversion</div></div>

--00000000000004d66905ce04e5d4--

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Michael MacLean" <springer.mike51@gmail.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAL4ZEOMFpXY75oZeRF1uYt_ZUK=hgcrtJ-VJpd=G+n=bLvaepw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 09:04:00 +0100
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Booster
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0058_01D7BE7E.EE863AD0"

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If you are comparing it with a modern car then yes the MGB can be =
considered 'heavy', but I find modern way too sensitive for my liking.  =
The factory booster makes very little difference, I've driven them with =
and without, and with but disabled, and noticed almost no difference.  =
There are 'stronger' after-market ones though.  If this is an LHD then =
I've seen them fitted on the passenger side against the bulkhead, but =
because of the limited space that side of the heater pointing forwards =
instead of across like they are on RHD.  You can see one in a factory =
LHD V8 here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/servo.htm#7, one of the cars =
sent to America for testing then returned and ended up in Europe.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20


  Who has added a brake booster to their MGB or MGB GT which initially =
did not have one?  Do you have pictures of where you mounted and how you =
did it.  I just put new pads and rotors on my 69 MGB GT.  It still takes =
a lot of effort to apply the brakes.  
------=_NextPart_000_0058_01D7BE7E.EE863AD0
	charset="utf-8"
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=EF=BB=BF<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>If you are comparing it with a modern car then yes the MGB can be=20
considered 'heavy', but I find modern way too sensitive for my =
liking.&nbsp; The=20
factory booster makes very little difference, I've driven them with and =
without,=20
and with but disabled, and noticed almost no difference.&nbsp; There are =

'stronger' after-market ones though.&nbsp; If this is an LHD then I've =
seen them=20
fitted on the passenger side against the bulkhead, but because of the =
limited=20
space that side of the heater pointing forwards instead of across like =
they are=20
on RHD.&nbsp; You can see one in a factory LHD V8 here <A=20
href=3D"http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/servo.htm#7">http://www.mgb-stuff.org=
.uk/servo.htm#7</A>,=20
one of the cars sent to America for testing then returned and&nbsp;ended =
up in=20
Europe.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>PaulH.</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dauto>Who has added a brake booster to their MGB or MGB GT =
which=20
  initially did not have one?&nbsp; Do you have pictures of where you =
mounted=20
  and how you did it.&nbsp; I just put new pads and rotors on my 69 MGB=20
  GT.&nbsp; It still takes a lot of effort to apply the=20
brakes.&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'Michael MacLean'" <springer.mike51@gmail.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAL4ZEOMFpXY75oZeRF1uYt_ZUK=hgcrtJ-VJpd=G+n=bLvaepw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 10:36:41 +0200
Thread-Index: AQGqR/nrxLvpUf7kCD31Qc+Wwc9+RqwoZRsw
Content-Language: nl
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Booster
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Depends to what car you compare Michael.

My 1971 also does not have a booster, but the brakes are working very well =
and with good =E2=80=9Cfeeling=E2=80=9D.

Other parts of the brake system may well contribute to the need of a firmer=
 pressure than expected like:

Brake calliper pistons may be not moving freely

Master cylinder may in need of a service =E2=80=93 overhaul

Brake pedal pivot point not working well=E2=80=A6

 

Hans

71 BGT

 

Van: Mgs <mgs-bounces@autox.team.net> Namens Michael MacLean
Verzonden: zondag 10 oktober 2021 21:48
Aan: mgs@autox.team.net
Onderwerp: [Mgs] Brake Booster

 

Who has added a brake booster to their MGB or MGB GT which initially did no=
t have one?  Do you have pictures of where you mounted and how you did it. =
 I just put new pads and rotors on my 69 MGB GT.  It still takes a lot of e=
ffort to apply the brakes.  

Mike MacLean

1969 MGB GT

1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Bugeye)

1956 Austin Healey BN2 Lemans conversion



-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware.=

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DNL link=3D"#0563C1" v=
link=3D"#954F72" style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div class=3DWordSection1><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'=
>Depends to what car you compare Michael.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DM=
soNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>My 1971 al=
so does not have a booster, but the brakes are working very well and with g=
ood =E2=80=9Cfeeling=E2=80=9D.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><s=
pan lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Other parts of the br=
ake system may well contribute to the need of a firmer pressure than expect=
ed like:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=
=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Brake calliper pistons may be not moving fr=
eely<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'=
mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Master cylinder may in need of a service =E2=80=
=93 overhaul<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB s=
tyle=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Brake pedal pivot point not working wel=
l=E2=80=A6<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB sty=
le=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMs=
oNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Hans<o:p></=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast=
-language:EN-US'>71 BGT<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lan=
g=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>=
<div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>Van:</b> Mgs &lt;mgs-bounces@autox.team.ne=
t&gt; <b>Namens </b>Michael MacLean<br><b>Verzonden:</b> zondag 10 oktober =
2021 21:48<br><b>Aan:</b> mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Onderwerp:</b> [Mgs] Bra=
ke Booster<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><d=
iv><p class=3DMsoNormal>Who has added a brake booster to their MGB or MGB G=
T which initially did not have one?&nbsp; Do you have pictures of where you=
 mounted and how you did it.&nbsp; I just put new pads and rotors on my 69 =
MGB GT.&nbsp; It still takes a lot of effort to apply the brakes.&nbsp;&nbs=
p;<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Mike MacLean<o:p></o:p></p></div=
><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>1969 MGB GT<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3D=
MsoNormal>1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Bugeye)<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p cl=
ass=3DMsoNormal>1956 Austin Healey BN2 Lemans conversion<o:p></o:p></p></di=
v></div></div><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br /> <tabl=
e style=3D"border-top: 1px solid #D3D4DE;">
	<tr>
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avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig=
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: 29px;" /></a></td>
		<td style=3D"width: 470px; padding-top: 17px; color: #41424e; font-size: =
13px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Virusv=
rij. <a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_sour=
ce=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient" target=3D"_bl=
ank" style=3D"color: #4453ea;">www.avast.com</a> 		</td>
	</tr>
</table>
<a href=3D"#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width=3D"1" height=3D"1">=
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_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 11 05:54:36 2021
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From: "dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAL4ZEOMFpXY75oZeRF1uYt_ZUK=hgcrtJ-VJpd=G+n=bLvaepw@mail.gmail.com>
 <003701d7be7b$1daed190$590c74b0$@planet.nl>
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2021 06:51:24 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
 OKZRw1HYeJblI/mXgp7pZ9cGXLKrd+t+VfpuaI+PKTmx3uAXSlx5LkeN
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Booster
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Sounds to me like the calipers need to be rebuilt=20

=20

From: Mgs <mgs-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of =
h.duinhoven@planet.nl
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 3:37 AM
To: 'Michael MacLean' <springer.mike51@gmail.com>; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake Booster

=20

Depends to what car you compare Michael.

My 1971 also does not have a booster, but the brakes are working very =
well and with good =E2=80=9Cfeeling=E2=80=9D.

Other parts of the brake system may well contribute to the need of a =
firmer pressure than expected like:

Brake calliper pistons may be not moving freely

Master cylinder may in need of a service =E2=80=93 overhaul

Brake pedal pivot point not working well=E2=80=A6

=20

Hans

71 BGT

=20

> Namens Michael MacLean
Verzonden: zondag 10 oktober 2021 21:48
Onderwerp: [Mgs] Brake Booster

=20

Who has added a brake booster to their MGB or MGB GT which initially did =
not have one?  Do you have pictures of where you mounted and how you did =
it.  I just put new pads and rotors on my 69 MGB GT.  It still takes a =
lot of effort to apply the brakes. =20

Mike MacLean

1969 MGB GT

1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Bugeye)

1956 Austin Healey BN2 Lemans conversion

=20


 =
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm=
_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient>=20

Virusvrij.  =
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm=
_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient> www.avast.com=20

=20


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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72" style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sounds to me like the calipers =
need to be rebuilt <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Mgs =
&lt;mgs-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>h.duinhoven@planet.nl<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 11, 2021 3:37 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> 'Michael MacLean' &lt;springer.mike51@gmail.com&gt;; =
mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] Brake =
Booster<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Depends to what car you compare =
Michael.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>My =
1971 also does not have a booster, but the brakes are working very well =
and with good =E2=80=9Cfeeling=E2=80=9D.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>Other parts of the brake system may =
well contribute to the need of a firmer pressure than expected =
like:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>Brake =
calliper pistons may be not moving freely<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>Master cylinder may in need of a =
service =E2=80=93 overhaul<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>Brake pedal pivot point not working =
well=E2=80=A6<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Hans<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>71 BGT<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DNL>Van:</span></b><span =
lang=3DNL> Mgs &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net">mgs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>=
&gt; <b>Namens </b>Michael MacLean<br><b>Verzonden:</b> zondag 10 =
oktober 2021 21:48<br><b>Aan:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Onderwerp=
:</b> [Mgs] Brake Booster<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DNL><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DNL>Who has added a brake booster to their =
MGB or MGB GT which initially did not have one?&nbsp; Do you have =
pictures of where you mounted and how you did it.&nbsp; I just put new =
pads and rotors on my 69 MGB GT.&nbsp; It still takes a lot of effort to =
apply the brakes.&nbsp;&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DNL>Mike =
MacLean<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DNL>1969 MGB GT<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DNL>1960 Austin Healey Sprite =
(Bugeye)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DNL>1956 Austin Healey BN2 Lemans =
conversion<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><div =
id=3DDAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DNL><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><table class=3DMsoNormalTable =
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style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #D3D4DE 1.0pt'><tr><td width=3D55 =
style=3D'width:41.25pt;border:none;padding:13.5pt .75pt .75pt .75pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><a =
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=3Dlink&amp;utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Demailclient" =
target=3D"_blank"><span style=3D'text-decoration:none'><img border=3D0 =
width=3D46 height=3D29 style=3D'width:.4833in;height:.3in' =
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style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#41424E'>V=
irusvrij. <a =
href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=
=3Dlink&amp;utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Demailclient" =
target=3D"_blank"><span style=3D'color:#4453EA'>www.avast.com</span></a> =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></td></tr></table><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div></body></html>
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From: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 14:01:58 -0700
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] About a dozen Ro-styles near Santa Cruz
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dGVhbS5uZXQvbWFpbG1hbi9vcHRpb25zL21ncy9taGFyY0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldAo=

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From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 17:07:02 -0600
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Repost of someone else's ad.
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1186240094947252786==

--0000000000009647d805cee4f436

I've got no financial interest in this:

https://www.reddit.com/r/MorrisGarages/comments/qd2sv3/selling_this_car_still_if_anyone_is_interested/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

--0000000000009647d805cee4f436
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;ve got no financial interest in this:<div dir=3D"au=
to"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"https://www.reddit.com/r/MorrisG=
arages/comments/qd2sv3/selling_this_car_still_if_anyone_is_interested/?utm_=
medium=3Dandroid_app&amp;utm_source=3Dshare">https://www.reddit.com/r/Morri=
sGarages/comments/qd2sv3/selling_this_car_still_if_anyone_is_interested/?ut=
m_medium=3Dandroid_app&amp;utm_source=3Dshare</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto=
"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div></div>

--0000000000009647d805cee4f436--

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 23 11:05:43 2021
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 a=_W_S_7VecoQA:10
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 13:04:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: wkilleffer@epbfi.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Thread-Index: dYIYT5b5eROyx3DDS8SIwIX9VpDSYw==
Thread-Topic: MGB rear brake questions
Subject: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0525840341093222004==
	boundary="=_3d08cfaf-2a19-478e-b3a9-e0f7882cf9aa"

--=_3d08cfaf-2a19-478e-b3a9-e0f7882cf9aa
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello everyone, 

The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of years before actually starting the project. 

So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with the cheaper one. 

Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet. 

The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this topic? 

Thank you, 
-William 
1974 MGB 

--=_3d08cfaf-2a19-478e-b3a9-e0f7882cf9aa
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-s=
ize: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>Hello everyone,</div><div><br data-mce-bogu=
s=3D"1"></div><div>The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided=
 that I wanted to replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydra=
ulics except for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to =
sit on them for a couple of years before actually starting the project.</di=
v><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>So, I got the new master cylinde=
r installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've ever=
 done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose=
 in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. =
I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But the=
se new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes o=
n the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with M=
oss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall =
that there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aft=
ermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with =
the cheaper one.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Has this bee=
n an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole in the back=
 plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those DPO solution=
s. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a notion anyway.=
 The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders ar=
e probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The front b=
rakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet.</div><div><br data-m=
ce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>The next question has to do with bleeding the rea=
r brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum =
tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool s=
tore. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among them that the bleeders=
 on the wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings that came w=
ith the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through its=
 system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the system. Th=
e trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have any re=
adily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have=
 to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this topic?</div><div=
><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Thank you,</div><div>-William</div><di=
v>1974 MGB</div></div></body></html>
--=_3d08cfaf-2a19-478e-b3a9-e0f7882cf9aa--

--===============0525840341093222004==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

--===============0525840341093222004==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 23 11:26:19 2021
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 Sat, 23 Oct 2021 10:23:50 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 10:23:50 -0700
To: Mga List <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1329463002.116385690.1635008671327.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions
Cc: wkilleffer@epbfi.com
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============2101150713724877908==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_E7563592-AE14-488B-B7D8-97D3658353FF"


--Apple-Mail=_E7563592-AE14-488B-B7D8-97D3658353FF
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

I don't really have any answers, I can just confirm that wheel cylinders =
are a part which has been =E2=80=9Cdown-qualitied=E2=80=9D to the point =
that they are scarcely serviceable. The offshore manufacturers seem to =
have settled on the tiniest possible bleeders, often with 7mm hexes =E2=80=
=94 a size so small that it is not included in most wrench sets, and =
which offers almost zero resistance to rounding.

Next time I am going to try rebuilding the cylinders instead. If they =
have been driven at all they usually don=E2=80=99t need honing =E2=80=94 =
just new seals.

As for the vacuum bleeder, I don=E2=80=99t know what the bleeder =
fittings in your kit look like, but maybe you could just substitute a =
different size hose? It has to seal well or it won=E2=80=99t work. In =
the past I have cobbled up adapters using metal tubes, different sizes =
of hose and hose clamps.

Good luck.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On Oct 23, 2021, at 10:04 AM, wkilleffer@epbfi.com wrote:
>=20
> Hello everyone,
>=20
> The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted =
to replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except =
for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on =
them for a couple of years before actually starting the project.
>=20
> So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of =
the more challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was =
working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty =
simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe =
twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But these new ones have a =
roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes on the brake's =
backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with Moss, and =
I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall that =
there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper =
aftermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went =
with the cheaper one.
>=20
> Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another =
hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of =
those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain =
such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The =
current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea =
of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not =
there yet.
>=20
> The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started =
to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a =
well-known less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's =
been a letdown for several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the =
wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings that came with =
the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through its =
system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the system. =
The trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have =
any readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be =
bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this =
topic?
>=20
> Thank you,
> -William
> 1974 MGB
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net


--Apple-Mail=_E7563592-AE14-488B-B7D8-97D3658353FF
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I =
don't really have any answers, I can just confirm that wheel cylinders =
are a part which has been =E2=80=9Cdown-qualitied=E2=80=9D to the point =
that they are scarcely serviceable. The offshore manufacturers seem to =
have settled on the tiniest possible bleeders, often with 7mm hexes =E2=80=
=94 a size so small that it is not included in most wrench sets, and =
which offers almost zero resistance to rounding.<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Next time I am going to try rebuilding =
the cylinders instead. If they have been driven at all they usually =
don=E2=80=99t need honing =E2=80=94 just new seals.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">As for the vacuum =
bleeder, I don=E2=80=99t know what the bleeder fittings in your kit look =
like, but maybe you could just substitute a different size hose? It has =
to seal well or it won=E2=80=99t work. In the past I have cobbled up =
adapters using metal tubes, different sizes of hose and hose =
clamps.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Good =
luck.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""><div class=3D"">
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); letter-spacing: normal; text-align: =
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; word-wrap: =
break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: =
after-white-space;" class=3D""><div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0px; font-size: 13px;" =
class=3D"">--</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; font-size: 13px; =
min-height: 16px;" class=3D"">Max Heim</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; =
font-size: 13px;" class=3D"">'66 MGB</div></div></div>
</div>

<div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Oct 23, 2021, at 10:04 AM, <a =
href=3D"mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com" class=3D"">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
class=3D""><div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 12pt;" class=3D""><div class=3D"">Hello everyone,</div><div =
class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">The =
car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to =
replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except =
for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on =
them for a couple of years before actually starting the =
project.</div><div class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">So, I got the new master cylinder =
installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've =
ever done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The =
rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the =
wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have =
any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't =
line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long =
to try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any good =
anyway because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that =
part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that =
may be made in England. I went with the cheaper one.</div><div =
class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Has =
this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole =
in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of =
those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain =
such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The =
current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea =
of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not =
there yet.</div><div class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">The next question has to do with =
bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the =
MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think =
shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, =
among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for =
the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes the tool to =
draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barely be able =
to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I am =
single and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of =
help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. =
Does anyone have any advice on this topic?</div><div class=3D""><br =
data-mce-bogus=3D"1" class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Thank =
you,</div><div class=3D"">-William</div><div class=3D"">1974 =
MGB</div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">Donate: =
&nbsp;$12.75<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net<br =
class=3D""></div></blockquote></div><br class=3D""></div></body></html>=

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Mgs@autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 23 11:49:22 2021
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From: Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 13:36:03 -0400
References: <1329463002.116385690.1635008671327.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
To: wkilleffer@epbfi.com
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============5522086544384587457==
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--Apple-Mail-68C5CDB2-A3D6-48CC-9904-848FE8324552
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

	The rear-brake question opens more questions.    MGBs had rear cyli=
nders to fit the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders and diffe=
rent back plates.    The roll pins located the cylinders in the correct back=
ing plates.
	Thus the questions arise:  Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders?=
 GT backplates and new Tourer cylinders?  Car modified before you got it?  W=
rong cylinders ordered/shipped?
	Having wrestled through this with my GT, it was years back and now I=
 do not recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are Tourer or GT.  So=
meone will know, though, and that challenge easily mastered.   GT cylinders a=
re larger, suited to the additional weight of GTs.  If you have to swap part=
s, do it the way MG built it=E2=80=94they got it right.=20
	As you replaced them years ago, my bet is that the vendor shipped w=
rong cylinders.=20
	As to the bleeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal push=
ing has done fine for me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders o=
n this GT.  They are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of 1/4 cu=
p of brake fluid doing the job are hardly worthwhile.   If the rear brakes a=
re difficult to bleed, have a close look at the metal pipes on the axle.  A c=
ar that has been flat-bed carried may have had the straps wrapped around the=
 axle, crushing the tubes.  That=E2=80=99s not an unusual thing to find.
	Since you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch hose?  These b=
reak down internally whilst appearing fine externally. As you do the change,=
 do it swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducing a bubble into the line is a=
ltogether too easy, and bleeding the clutch line has made many an owner irat=
e.
Bob


> On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, wkilleffer@epbfi.com wrote:
>=20
> Hello everyone,
>=20
> The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to r=
eplace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the=
 metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a cou=
ple of years before actually starting the project.
>=20
> So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of the m=
ore challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was working on t=
he rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the issue=
 is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and did=
n't have any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that does=
n't line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long t=
o try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anywa=
y because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that part. You=
 could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that may be made i=
n England. I went with the cheaper one.
>=20
> Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hol=
e in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those D=
PO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a noti=
on anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel cyl=
inders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The=
 front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet.
>=20
> The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bl=
eed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known=
 less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown f=
or several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem=
 too small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes th=
e tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barely be=
 able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I am s=
ingle and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of help.=
 If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyon=
e have any advice on this topic?
>=20
> Thank you,
> -William
> 1974 MGB
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><sp=
an class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>The rear-bra=
ke question opens more questions. &nbsp; &nbsp;MGBs had rear cylinders to fi=
t the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders and different back p=
lates. &nbsp; &nbsp;The roll pins located the cylinders in the correct backi=
ng plates.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"whi=
te-space:pre">	</span>Thus the questions arise: &nbsp;Tourer back plates a=
nd new GT cylinders? GT backplates and new Tourer cylinders? &nbsp;Car modif=
ied before you got it? &nbsp;Wrong cylinders ordered/shipped?</div><div dir=3D=
"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Havi=
ng wrestled through this with my GT, it was years back and now I do not reca=
ll which cylinders (size and pin location) are Tourer or GT. &nbsp;Someone w=
ill know, though, and that challenge easily mastered. &nbsp; GT cylinders ar=
e larger, suited to the additional weight of GTs. &nbsp;If you have to swap p=
arts, do it the way MG built it=E2=80=94they got it right.&nbsp;</div><div d=
ir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</s=
pan>As you replaced them years ago, my bet is that the vendor shipped wrong c=
ylinders.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D=
"white-space:pre">	</span>As to the bleeding, my experience has been t=
hat ordinary pedal pushing has done fine for me on many cars, though I did i=
nstall speed bleeders on this GT. &nbsp;They are an easy exchange and work O=
K, but the savings of 1/4 cup of brake fluid doing the job are hardly worthw=
hile. &nbsp; If the rear brakes are difficult to bleed, have a close look at=
 the metal pipes on the axle. &nbsp;A car that has been flat-bed carried may=
 have had the straps wrapped around the axle, crushing the tubes. &nbsp;That=
=E2=80=99s not an unusual thing to find.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D=
"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Since you are changi=
ng hoses, have you changed clutch hose? &nbsp;These break down internally wh=
ilst appearing fine externally. As you do the change, do it swiftly, w/o int=
erruption, as introducing a bubble into the line is altogether too easy, and=
 bleeding the clutch line has made many an owner irate.</div><div dir=3D"ltr=
">Bob</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Oct 23, 2021, a=
t 1:04 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> w=
rote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div style=3D"=
font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000">=
<div>Hello everyone,</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>The car I=
'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to replace eve=
rything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the metal lin=
es. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of yea=
rs before actually starting the project.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1">=
</div><div>So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably on=
e of the more challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was wo=
rking on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but=
 the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years a=
go and didn't have any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them=
 that doesn't line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been=
 too long to try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any=
 good anyway because I don't recall that there were too many choices for tha=
t part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that ma=
y be made in England. I went with the cheaper one.</div><div><br data-mce-bo=
gus=3D"1"></div><div>Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probabl=
y drill another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems=
 like one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to e=
ntertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. T=
he current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea o=
f all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not ther=
e yet.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>The next question has t=
o do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest fr=
om the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think sh=
ipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among=
 them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleede=
r fittings that came with the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great de=
al of air through its system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid th=
rough the system. The trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I=
 don't have any readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going t=
o be bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this t=
opic?</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Thank you,</div><div>-Wi=
lliam</div><div>1974 MGB</div></div></div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"c=
ite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>_______________________________________________<=
/span><br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@a=
utox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/don=
ate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annu=
al donation &nbsp;$12.75</span><br><span></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D=
"http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs</a> <a=
 href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a></s=
pan><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net=
/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options=
/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com</a></span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>=

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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

--===============5522086544384587457==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 23 11:55:26 2021
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Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 13:44:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: wkilleffer@epbfi.com
To: Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com>
Thread-Topic: MGB rear brake questions
Thread-Index: IXQBJYdROysh1WlHiZ0/BKZY61wLAQ==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5075510138043056192==
	boundary="=_bf974d19-6eda-4440-9c08-f9232d10967c"

--=_bf974d19-6eda-4440-9c08-f9232d10967c
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thank you for your reply.=20
As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a choi=
ce as to whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice was eith=
er Lockheed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for less $. As far =
as I know, the back plates are original, but I've only owned the car for 20=
 years. Its engine is not original, so who knows what else could have been =
swapped.=20
Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing? And how do do ped=
al pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?=20
The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines are cri=
mped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with the tool, I =
can't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake lines or are air=
 being drawn into the bleeder because the fitment isn't good.=20
Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit frus=
trating, but seems ok now.=20

Thank you,=20
-William=20


From: "Robert's New iPad" <mgbobh@gmail.com>=20
To: wkilleffer@epbfi.com=20
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net=20
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2021 1:36:03 PM=20
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions=20

The rear-brake question opens more questions. MGBs had rear cylinders to fi=
t the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders and different back =
plates. The roll pins located the cylinders in the correct backing plates.=
=20
Thus the questions arise: Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders? GT backp=
lates and new Tourer cylinders? Car modified before you got it? Wrong cylin=
ders ordered/shipped?=20
Having wrestled through this with my GT, it was years back and now I do not=
 recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are Tourer or GT. Someone w=
ill know, though, and that challenge easily mastered. GT cylinders are larg=
er, suited to the additional weight of GTs. If you have to swap parts, do i=
t the way MG built it=E2=80=94they got it right.=20
As you replaced them years ago, my bet is that the vendor shipped wrong cyl=
inders.=20
As to the bleeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal pushing has =
done fine for me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders on this =
GT. They are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of 1/4 cup of br=
ake fluid doing the job are hardly worthwhile. If the rear brakes are diffi=
cult to bleed, have a close look at the metal pipes on the axle. A car that=
 has been flat-bed carried may have had the straps wrapped around the axle,=
 crushing the tubes. That=E2=80=99s not an unusual thing to find.=20
Since you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch hose? These break dow=
n internally whilst appearing fine externally. As you do the change, do it =
swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducing a bubble into the line is altoget=
her too easy, and bleeding the clutch line has made many an owner irate.=20
Bob=20


On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, [ mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com | wkilleffer@epb=
fi.com ] wrote:=20




Hello everyone,=20

The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to r=
eplace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for th=
e metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a c=
ouple of years before actually starting the project.=20

So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of the m=
ore challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was working on =
the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the iss=
ue is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and =
didn't have any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that =
doesn't line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too =
long to try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any goo=
d anyway because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that p=
art. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that may =
be made in England. I went with the cheaper one.=20

Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole=
 in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those =
DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a no=
tion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel =
cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts.=
 The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet.=20

The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to ble=
ed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known=
 less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown =
for several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders se=
em too small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes=
 the tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barel=
y be able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I=
 am single and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of=
 help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. Doe=
s anyone have any advice on this topic?=20

Thank you,=20
-William=20
1974 MGB=20



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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-s=
ize: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>Thank you for your reply.</div><div>As far =
as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a choice as t=
o whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice was either Lock=
heed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for less $. As far as I kn=
ow, the back plates are original, but I've only owned the car for 20 years.=
 Its engine is not original, so who knows what else could have been swapped=
.&nbsp;</div><div>Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing?=
 And how do do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?</div><div>Th=
e fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines are crimp=
ed. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with the tool, I ca=
n't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake lines or are air b=
eing drawn into the bleeder because the fitment isn't good.&nbsp;</div><div=
>Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit fru=
strating, but seems ok now.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>T=
hank you,</div><div>-William</div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr" data-mark=
er=3D"__DIVIDER__"><div data-marker=3D"__HEADERS__"><b>From: </b>"Robert's =
New iPad" &lt;mgbobh@gmail.com&gt;<br><b>To: </b>wkilleffer@epbfi.com<br><b=
>Cc: </b>mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Sent: </b>Saturday, October 23, 2021 1:36=
:03 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions<br></div><div>=
<br></div><div data-marker=3D"__QUOTED_TEXT__"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div =
dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">=09</s=
pan>The rear-brake question opens more questions. &nbsp; &nbsp;MGBs had rea=
r cylinders to fit the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders an=
d different back plates. &nbsp; &nbsp;The roll pins located the cylinders i=
n the correct backing plates.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-ta=
b-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">=09</span>Thus the questions arise: &nbsp=
;Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders? GT backplates and new Tourer cyli=
nders? &nbsp;Car modified before you got it? &nbsp;Wrong cylinders ordered/=
shipped?</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"whit=
e-space:pre">=09</span>Having wrestled through this with my GT, it was year=
s back and now I do not recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are =
Tourer or GT. &nbsp;Someone will know, though, and that challenge easily ma=
stered. &nbsp; GT cylinders are larger, suited to the additional weight of =
GTs. &nbsp;If you have to swap parts, do it the way MG built it=E2=80=94the=
y got it right.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">=09</span>As you replaced them years ago, my bet =
is that the vendor shipped wrong cylinders.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><sp=
an class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">=09</span>As to the b=
leeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal pushing has done fine f=
or me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders on this GT. &nbsp;T=
hey are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of 1/4 cup of brake f=
luid doing the job are hardly worthwhile. &nbsp; If the rear brakes are dif=
ficult to bleed, have a close look at the metal pipes on the axle. &nbsp;A =
car that has been flat-bed carried may have had the straps wrapped around t=
he axle, crushing the tubes. &nbsp;That=E2=80=99s not an unusual thing to f=
ind.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-sp=
ace:pre">=09</span>Since you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch ho=
se? &nbsp;These break down internally whilst appearing fine externally. As =
you do the change, do it swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducing a bubble=
 into the line is altogether too easy, and bleeding the clutch line has mad=
e many an owner irate.</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:w=
killeffer@epbfi.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer"=
>wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<div style=3D"font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:#000000"><div>Hello everyone,</div><br><div>The car I'm working on i=
s a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to replace everything relati=
ng to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the metal lines. I ordered=
 the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of years before ac=
tually starting the project.</div><br><div>So, I got the new master cylinde=
r installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've ever=
 done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose=
 in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. =
I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But the=
se new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes o=
n the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with M=
oss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall =
that there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aft=
ermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with =
the cheaper one.</div><br><div>Has this been an issue for anyone else? I co=
uld probably drill another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, bu=
t that seems like one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I sho=
uld have to entertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit and functio=
n correctly. The current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I l=
iked the idea of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, bu=
t we're not there yet.</div><br><div>The next question has to do with bleed=
ing the rear brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC usin=
g a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a p=
ort) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among them that t=
he bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings =
that came with the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air =
through its system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the=
 system. The trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't =
have any readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be b=
led, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this topic=
?</div><br><div>Thank you,</div><div>-William</div><div>1974 MGB</div></div=
></div></blockquote><blockquote><div dir=3D"ltr">__________________________=
_____________________<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" target=
=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>=
=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Su=
ggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75<br><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/mgs" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferr=
er">http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/=
archive" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">http://auto=
x.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net=
/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow no=
opener noreferrer">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.c=
om</a></div></blockquote><br></div></div></body></html>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
From: David Ambrose <stargazer1@cox.net>
 gAP9qbEHja082KH9EI0wD9GvOXkcYkP86JXxYKGOtMINPOiahbkIUZGf0s9Vj5+YyHjUbgc5OKTFTw==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions
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You have the wrong wheel cylinders. The GTs have a different (larger) 
rear brake cylinder than the roadsters. The roll pins are in different 
locations to prevent them from inadvertently getting swapped. I don't 
think you want to use the GT cylinders on a roadster as it would put too 
much braking in the rear which will make the car very tail happy under 
emergency braking.

Cheers,
Dave

On 10/23/2021 10:44 AM, wkilleffer@epbfi.com wrote:
> Thank you for your reply.
> As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a 
> choice as to whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice 
> was either Lockheed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for 
> less $. As far as I know, the back plates are original, but I've only 
> owned the car for 20 years. Its engine is not original, so who knows 
> what else could have been swapped.
> Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing? And how do 
> do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?
> The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines 
> are crimped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with 
> the tool, I can't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake 
> lines or are air being drawn into the bleeder because the fitment 
> isn't good.
> Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit 
> frustrating, but seems ok now.
>
> Thank you,
> -William
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Robert's New iPad" <mgbobh@gmail.com>
> *To: *wkilleffer@epbfi.com
> *Cc: *mgs@autox.team.net
> *Sent: *Saturday, October 23, 2021 1:36:03 PM
> *Subject: *Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions
>
> The rear-brake question opens more questions. Â  Â MGBs had rear 
> cylinders to fit the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders 
> and different back plates. Â  Â The roll pins located the cylinders in 
> the correct backing plates.
> Thus the questions arise: Â Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders? GT 
> backplates and new Tourer cylinders? Â Car modified before you got it? 
> Â Wrong cylinders ordered/shipped?
> Having wrestled through this with my GT, it was years back and now I 
> do not recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are Tourer or 
> GT. Â Someone will know, though, and that challenge easily mastered. Â  
> GT cylinders are larger, suited to the additional weight of GTs. Â If 
> you have to swap parts, do it the way MG built itâ€”they got it right.
> As you replaced them years ago, my bet is that the vendor shipped 
> wrong cylinders.
> As to the bleeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal pushing 
> has done fine for me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders 
> on this GT. Â They are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of 
> 1/4 cup of brake fluid doing the job are hardly worthwhile. Â  If the 
> rear brakes are difficult to bleed, have a close look at the metal 
> pipes on the axle. Â A car that has been flat-bed carried may have had 
> the straps wrapped around the axle, crushing the tubes. Â Thatâ€™s not an 
> unusual thing to find.
> Since you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch hose? Â These 
> break down internally whilst appearing fine externally. As you do the 
> change, do it swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducing a bubble into 
> the line is altogether too easy, and bleeding the clutch line has made 
> many an owner irate.
> Bob
>
>
> On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, wkilleffer@epbfi.com wrote:
>
>     Hello everyone,
>
>     The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I
>     wanted to replace everything relating to the brakes and their
>     hydraulics except for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from
>     Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of years before actually
>     starting the project.
>
>     So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one
>     of the more challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next
>     step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back
>     was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I
>     replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble.
>     But these new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up
>     with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to
>     try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any
>     good anyway because I don't recall that there were too many
>     choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a
>     more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with the
>     cheaper one.
>
>     Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill
>     another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that
>     seems like one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I
>     should have to entertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit
>     and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders are probably
>     ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The front
>     brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet.
>
>     The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I
>     started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum
>     tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a
>     port) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among
>     them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for
>     the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes the
>     tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to
>     barely be able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I
>     have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have any
>     readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be
>     bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on
>     this topic?
>
>     Thank you,
>     -William
>     1974 MGB
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Mgs@autox.team.net
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation Â $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/stargazer1@cox.net
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>You have the wrong wheel cylinders. The GTs have a different
      (larger) rear brake cylinder than the roadsters. The roll pins are
      in different locations to prevent them from inadvertently getting
      swapped. I don't think you want to use the GT cylinders on a
      roadster as it would put too much braking in the rear which will
      make the car very tail happy under emergency braking. <br>
    </p>
    <p>Cheers,<br>
      Dave<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/23/2021 10:44 AM,
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size:
        12pt; color: #000000">
        <div>Thank you for your reply.</div>
        <div>As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that
          there was a choice as to whether they were for a GT or a
          roadster. The only choice was either Lockheed brand (maybe)
          for more $, or an aftermarket for less $. As far as I know,
          the back plates are original, but I've only owned the car for
          20 years. Its engine is not original, so who knows what else
          could have been swapped.Â </div>
        <div>Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing?
          And how do do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?</div>
        <div>The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so
          no lines are crimped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the
          bleeder thing with the tool, I can't tell if the air bubbles
          are coming through the brake lines or are air being drawn into
          the bleeder because the fitment isn't good.Â </div>
        <div>Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago.
          It was a bit frustrating, but seems ok now.</div>
        <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
        </div>
        <div>Thank you,</div>
        <div>-William</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <hr id="zwchr" data-marker="__DIVIDER__">
        <div data-marker="__HEADERS__"><b>From: </b>"Robert's New iPad"
          <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:mgbobh@gmail.com">&lt;mgbobh@gmail.com&gt;</a><br>
          <b>To: </b><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a><br>
          <b>Cc: </b><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>
          <b>Sent: </b>Saturday, October 23, 2021 1:36:03 PM<br>
          <b>Subject: </b>Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions<br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div data-marker="__QUOTED_TEXT__">
          <div dir="ltr"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>The
            rear-brake question opens more questions. Â  Â MGBs had rear
            cylinders to fit the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of
            cylinders and different back plates. Â  Â The roll pins
            located the cylinders in the correct backing plates.</div>
          <div dir="ltr"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>Thus
            the questions arise: Â Tourer back plates and new GT
            cylinders? GT backplates and new Tourer cylinders? Â Car
            modified before you got it? Â Wrong cylinders
            ordered/shipped?</div>
          <div dir="ltr"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>Having
            wrestled through this with my GT, it was years back and now
            I do not recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are
            Tourer or GT. Â Someone will know, though, and that challenge
            easily mastered. Â  GT cylinders are larger, suited to the
            additional weight of GTs. Â If you have to swap parts, do it
            the way MG built itâ€”they got it right.Â </div>
          <div dir="ltr"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>As
            you replaced them years ago, my bet is that the vendor
            shipped wrong cylinders.Â </div>
          <div dir="ltr"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>As
            to the bleeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal
            pushing has done fine for me on many cars, though I did
            install speed bleeders on this GT. Â They are an easy
            exchange and work OK, but the savings of 1/4 cup of brake
            fluid doing the job are hardly worthwhile. Â  If the rear
            brakes are difficult to bleed, have a close look at the
            metal pipes on the axle. Â A car that has been flat-bed
            carried may have had the straps wrapped around the axle,
            crushing the tubes. Â Thatâ€™s not an unusual thing to find.</div>
          <div dir="ltr"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>Since
            you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch hose? Â These
            break down internally whilst appearing fine externally. As
            you do the change, do it swiftly, w/o interruption, as
            introducing a bubble into the line is altogether too easy,
            and bleeding the clutch line has made many an owner irate.</div>
          <div dir="ltr">Bob</div>
          <div dir="ltr"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="ltr"><br>
            On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, <a
              href="mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com" target="_blank"
              rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" moz-do-not-send="true"
              class="moz-txt-link-freetext">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a>
            wrote:<br>
            <br>
          </div>
          <blockquote>
            <div dir="ltr">
              <div style="font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' ,
                sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:#000000">
                <div>Hello everyone,</div>
                <br>
                <div>The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I
                  decided that I wanted to replace everything relating
                  to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the
                  metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to
                  sit on them for a couple of years before actually
                  starting the project.</div>
                <br>
                <div>So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which
                  is probably one of the more challenging things I've
                  ever done on the car. Next step was working on the
                  rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty
                  simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I
                  replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have
                  any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on
                  them that doesn't line up with the holes on the
                  brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and
                  swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do
                  any good anyway because I don't recall that there were
                  too many choices for that part. You could get a
                  cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that may
                  be made in England. I went with the cheaper one.</div>
                <br>
                <div>Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could
                  probably drill another hole in the back plate to match
                  the roll pin, but that seems like one of those DPO
                  solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to
                  entertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit
                  and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders
                  are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all
                  new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda,
                  but we're not there yet.</div>
                <br>
                <div>The next question has to do with bleeding the rear
                  brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the
                  MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less
                  expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's
                  been a letdown for several reasons, among them that
                  the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for
                  the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which
                  causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through
                  its system. I seemed to barely be able to get any
                  fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I
                  am single and live alone, so I don't have any readily
                  available sources of help. If the brakes are going to
                  be bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have
                  any advice on this topic?</div>
                <br>
                <div>Thank you,</div>
                <div>-William</div>
                <div>1974 MGB</div>
              </div>
            </div>
          </blockquote>
          <blockquote>
            <div dir="ltr">_______________________________________________<br>
              <br>
              <a href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" target="_blank"
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                target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer"
                moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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              <br>
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        </div>
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      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

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From: Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2021 18:41:53 -0400
References: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
To: wkilleffer@epbfi.com
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============2886359976792621189==
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--Apple-Mail-F5628109-8F93-4696-AE6D-04119A9FB398
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi William,
	Check out Abingdon Spares.  Much of their stock is Moss, but often t=
hey have other suppliers=E2=80=99 products, and everything they offer is goo=
d stuff.   Disclosure=E2=80=94Ed and Martin are friends, supporters of CT MG=
 Club, active drivers, and AS is 15 miles from here.
	If you did not specify GT wheel cylinders last time, I=E2=80=99m su=
re that supplier sent you Tourer cylinders, which are the ones you want.  Ri=
ng up Abingdon on Monday and get the ones you need. If you are holding the w=
rong ones in your hand, they can confirm what it is you have. =20
	Had a previous owner switched back plates to GT and used GT cylinde=
rs, you may have experienced premature rear-wheel lockup.  It=E2=80=99s not a=
n iffy thing=E2=80=94-you know when it happens, and it=E2=80=99s not a good e=
xperience.=20
	Have a look at speed bleeder site.  I am ambivalent about the thing=
s, though my friends love them.  Seems to me you still have to put a bleed h=
ose on the bleeder and watch the fluid coming out.   The thing that=E2=80=99=
s good about them is that they shut when pressure on the pedal is released, s=
o they don=E2=80=99t suck air.  When done, you snug them gently as you would=
 regular bleeders. =20
	I was working today on a Triumph Super Nine brakes, in my garage.  T=
he Mighty Vac didn=E2=80=99t seem all that mighty. We resorted to pedal pres=
sure, which worked better, but not great.  These 1932 Lockheed brakes (on an=
 English car, no less) are similar to our MGB rear brakes, but different in d=
etail. Cast aluminium shoes, for one, shoes linked at the bottom, not pivoti=
ng. The adjuster pushes the shoes apart near the top, where the double-side c=
ylinder expands. The bleed screw is minuscule, with a pin-hole orifice, and i=
t screws into an adapter that goes into the cylinders, adapter with two pin-=
hole orifices. Behind the adapter is a ball bearing. Huh?    We are cautious=
ly learning as we go, among other things learning that a tiny piece of rust b=
locks those fluid passages.  Master Cylinder is just back from White Post, s=
o it should be the one thing in the system that we can count on being right.=
   Look up Triumph Super Nine in Wikipedia.  This is the blue car with black=
 wings that is in the photo.  It may be the only one in USA.  Owner has dili=
gently scanned the internet for anything pertaining to the car. All the fact=
ory publications went up in smoke one night in 1940. =20
	Happy to read that the evil clutch work is done.  Brakes are a dodd=
le after that.
Bob


> On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:44 PM, wkilleffer@epbfi.com wrote:
>=20
> Thank you for your reply.
> As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a cho=
ice as to whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice was eith=
er Lockheed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for less $. As far a=
s I know, the back plates are original, but I've only owned the car for 20 y=
ears. Its engine is not original, so who knows what else could have been swa=
pped.=20
> Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing? And how do do pe=
dal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?
> The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines are cr=
imped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with the tool, I c=
an't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake lines or are air b=
eing drawn into the bleeder because the fitment isn't good.=20
> Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit fru=
strating, but seems ok now.
>=20
> Thank you,
> -William
>=20
> From: "Robert's New iPad" <mgbobh@gmail.com>
> To: wkilleffer@epbfi.com
> Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2021 1:36:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions
>=20
> 	The rear-brake question opens more questions.    MGBs had rear cyli=
nders to fit the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders and diffe=
rent back plates.    The roll pins located the cylinders in the correct back=
ing plates.
> 	Thus the questions arise:  Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders?=
 GT backplates and new Tourer cylinders?  Car modified before you got it?  W=
rong cylinders ordered/shipped?
> 	Having wrestled through this with my GT, it was years back and now I=
 do not recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are Tourer or GT.  So=
meone will know, though, and that challenge easily mastered.   GT cylinders a=
re larger, suited to the additional weight of GTs.  If you have to swap part=
s, do it the way MG built it=E2=80=94they got it right.=20
> 	As you replaced them years ago, my bet is that the vendor shipped w=
rong cylinders.=20
> 	As to the bleeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal push=
ing has done fine for me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders o=
n this GT.  They are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of 1/4 cu=
p of brake fluid doing the job are hardly worthwhile.   If the rear brakes a=
re difficult to bleed, have a close look at the metal pipes on the axle.  A c=
ar that has been flat-bed carried may have had the straps wrapped around the=
 axle, crushing the tubes.  That=E2=80=99s not an unusual thing to find.
> 	Since you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch hose?  These b=
reak down internally whilst appearing fine externally. As you do the change,=
 do it swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducing a bubble into the line is a=
ltogether too easy, and bleeding the clutch line has made many an owner irat=
e.
> Bob
>=20
>=20
> On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, wkilleffer@epbfi.com wrote:
>=20
> Hello everyone,
>=20
> The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to r=
eplace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the=
 metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a cou=
ple of years before actually starting the project.
>=20
> So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of the m=
ore challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was working on t=
he rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the issue=
 is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and did=
n't have any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that does=
n't line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long t=
o try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anywa=
y because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that part. You=
 could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that may be made i=
n England. I went with the cheaper one.
>=20
> Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hol=
e in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those D=
PO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a noti=
on anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel cyl=
inders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The=
 front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet.
>=20
> The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bl=
eed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known=
 less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown f=
or several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem=
 too small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes th=
e tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barely be=
 able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I am s=
ingle and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of help.=
 If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyon=
e have any advice on this topic?
>=20
> Thank you,
> -William
> 1974 MGB
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com
>=20

--Apple-Mail-F5628109-8F93-4696-AE6D-04119A9FB398
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi W=
illiam,</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-=
space:pre">	</span>Check out Abingdon Spares. &nbsp;Much of their stock=
 is Moss, but often they have other suppliers=E2=80=99 products, and everyth=
ing they offer is good stuff. &nbsp; Disclosure=E2=80=94Ed and Martin are fr=
iends, supporters of CT MG Club, active drivers, and AS is 15 miles from her=
e.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space=
:pre">	</span>If you did not specify GT wheel cylinders last time, I=E2=80=
=99m sure that supplier sent you Tourer cylinders, which are the ones you wa=
nt. &nbsp;Ring up Abingdon on Monday and get the ones you need. If you are h=
olding the wrong ones in your hand, they can confirm what it is you have. &n=
bsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-spa=
ce:pre">	</span>Had a previous owner switched back plates to GT and u=
sed GT cylinders, you may have experienced premature rear-wheel lockup. &nbs=
p;It=E2=80=99s not an iffy thing=E2=80=94-you know when it happens, and it=E2=
=80=99s not a good experience.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Ap=
ple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Have a look at speed=
 bleeder site. &nbsp;I am ambivalent about the things, though my friends lov=
e them. &nbsp;Seems to me you still have to put a bleed hose on the bleeder a=
nd watch the fluid coming out. &nbsp; The thing that=E2=80=99s good about th=
em is that they shut when pressure on the pedal is released, so they don=E2=80=
=99t suck air. &nbsp;When done, you snug them gently as you would regular bl=
eeders. &nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D=
"white-space:pre">	</span>I was working today on a Triumph Super Nine b=
rakes, in my garage. &nbsp;The Mighty Vac didn=E2=80=99t seem all that might=
y. We resorted to pedal pressure, which worked better, but not great. &nbsp;=
These 1932 Lockheed brakes (on an English car, no less) are similar to our M=
GB rear brakes, but different in detail. Cast aluminium shoes, for one, shoe=
s linked at the bottom, not pivoting. The adjuster pushes the shoes apart ne=
ar the top, where the double-side cylinder expands. The bleed screw is minus=
cule, with a pin-hole orifice, and it screws into an adapter that goes into t=
he cylinders, adapter with two pin-hole orifices. Behind the adapter is a ba=
ll bearing. Huh? &nbsp; &nbsp;We are cautiously learning as we go, among oth=
er things learning that a tiny piece of rust blocks those fluid passages. &n=
bsp;Master Cylinder is just back from White Post, so it should be the one th=
ing in the system that we can count on being right. &nbsp; Look up Triumph S=
uper Nine in Wikipedia. &nbsp;This is the blue car with black wings that is i=
n the photo. &nbsp;It may be the only one in USA. &nbsp;Owner has diligently=
 scanned the internet for anything pertaining to the car. All the factory pu=
blications went up in smoke one night in 1940. &nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Happ=
y to read that the evil clutch work is done. &nbsp;Brakes are a doddle after=
 that.</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D=
"ltr"><br>On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:44 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.co=
m">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr"><div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font=
-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>Thank you for your reply.</div><div>As far=
 as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a choice as t=
o whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice was either Lockh=
eed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for less $. As far as I know=
, the back plates are original, but I've only owned the car for 20 years. It=
s engine is not original, so who knows what else could have been swapped.&nb=
sp;</div><div>Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing? And h=
ow do do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?</div><div>The fluid=
 is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines are crimped. But t=
hanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with the tool, I can't tell i=
f the air bubbles are coming through the brake lines or are air being drawn i=
nto the bleeder because the fitment isn't good.&nbsp;</div><div>Yes, I did t=
he clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit frustrating, but s=
eems ok now.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Thank you,</div><=
div>-William</div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr" data-marker=3D"__DIVIDER__=
"><div data-marker=3D"__HEADERS__"><b>From: </b>"Robert's New iPad" &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:mgbobh@gmail.com">mgbobh@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br><b>To: </b><a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a><br><b>Cc: </b><a=
 href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Sent: </b>S=
aturday, October 23, 2021 1:36:03 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Mgs] MGB rear b=
rake questions<br></div><div><br></div><div data-marker=3D"__QUOTED_TEXT__">=
<div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=
=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>The rear-brake question opens more questions=
. &nbsp; &nbsp;MGBs had rear cylinders to fit the Tourers and the GTs, diffe=
rent sizes of cylinders and different back plates. &nbsp; &nbsp;The roll pin=
s located the cylinders in the correct backing plates.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Thus=
 the questions arise: &nbsp;Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders? GT back=
plates and new Tourer cylinders? &nbsp;Car modified before you got it? &nbsp=
;Wrong cylinders ordered/shipped?</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple=
-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Having wrestled through this=
 with my GT, it was years back and now I do not recall which cylinders (size=
 and pin location) are Tourer or GT. &nbsp;Someone will know, though, and th=
at challenge easily mastered. &nbsp; GT cylinders are larger, suited to the a=
dditional weight of GTs. &nbsp;If you have to swap parts, do it the way MG b=
uilt it=E2=80=94they got it right.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D=
"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>As you replaced them=
 years ago, my bet is that the vendor shipped wrong cylinders.&nbsp;</div><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">=
	</span>As to the bleeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal pushi=
ng has done fine for me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders on=
 this GT. &nbsp;They are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of 1/=
4 cup of brake fluid doing the job are hardly worthwhile. &nbsp; If the rear=
 brakes are difficult to bleed, have a close look at the metal pipes on the a=
xle. &nbsp;A car that has been flat-bed carried may have had the straps wrap=
ped around the axle, crushing the tubes. &nbsp;That=E2=80=99s not an unusual=
 thing to find.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D=
"white-space:pre">	</span>Since you are changing hoses, have you chang=
ed clutch hose? &nbsp;These break down internally whilst appearing fine exte=
rnally. As you do the change, do it swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducin=
g a bubble into the line is altogether too easy, and bleeding the clutch lin=
e has made many an owner irate.</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob</div><div dir=3D"l=
tr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, <a href=3D"m=
ailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noref=
errer">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote><div dir=3D"=
ltr"><div style=3D"font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;font-size:=
12pt;color:#000000"><div>Hello everyone,</div><br><div>The car I'm working o=
n is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to replace everything rela=
ting to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the metal lines. I ordere=
d the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of years before ac=
tually starting the project.</div><br><div>So, I got the new master cylinder=
 installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've ever d=
one on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in=
 the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I re=
placed them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But these ne=
w ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes on the b=
rake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with Moss, and=
 I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall that ther=
e were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket o=
r a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with the cheaper=
 one.</div><br><div>Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably=
 drill another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems l=
ike one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to ent=
ertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The=
 current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of a=
ll new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there y=
et.</div><br><div>The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes.=
 I started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got=
 at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's b=
een a letdown for several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel=
 cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, w=
hich causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seeme=
d to barely be able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have i=
s that I am single and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sou=
rces of help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by mysel=
f. Does anyone have any advice on this topic?</div><br><div>Thank you,</div>=
<div>-William</div><div>1974 MGB</div></div></div></blockquote><blockquote><=
div dir=3D"ltr">_______________________________________________<br><br><a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener n=
oreferrer">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/=
donate.html" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">http://w=
ww.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75<br><br=
>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs" target=3D"_blank" re=
l=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs</a> <a h=
ref=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noop=
ener noreferrer">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe: <a hr=
ef=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com" target=3D"=
_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">http://autox.team.net/mailman/o=
ptions/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com</a></div></blockquote><br></div></div></div></bl=
ockquote></body></html>=

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 24 04:06:49 2021
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To: wkilleffer@epbfi.com, Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com>
References: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
 fnm9DDHkZ2Q55iUTxG61eTz/AFgqEhanULxQt6kbH9/A6JVR/VnQEED4bez3MDnW3ymXirzdw8skm6eFIiZt5xaYJa02C82ltGMjr12dH1En2rDqnY/V3vkN
 rexaD29unPQaj7Bcc9dY+g==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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The GT originally had the same wheel cylinders as the roadster, changing 
in May 68 for the larger item which can take more braking effort without 
locking up in the wet.Â  Incidentally the factory V8 used the smaller 
ones, presumably because with the harder springs there was more chance 
of locking up over bumps.Â  You are unlikely to notice the difference on 
dry tarmac.Â  Rather than describe them the two types can be seen here 
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/brakecyl.htm#3

The purpose of Speedbleeders is to allow single-handed pedal bleeding of 
hydraulic systems, but they are pretty expensive for what they are and 
the number of times they are used.Â Â  They contain a spring-loaded valve 
which is normally bolted down tight, but when bleeding you slacken them 
off so that only the spring is keeping the valve closed.Â  Then when you 
press on the pedal fluid pressure opens the valve to let air/fluid out, 
and when releasing the pedal they close again to stop air going back 
in.Â  I've always used EeziBleed.

Regardless of which method you use to get air out I've always found that 
after low pressure bleeding they are spongy and it needs to be done with 
high pressure that does need two people. One presses down on the pedal 
as hard as they can while the other rapidly opens and closes each 
caliper nipple in turn, which always blasts a bit more air out, after 
that they are fine.Â  The front of the car needs to be a bit higher than 
the rear as well.

PaulH.

On 23/10/2021 18:44, wkilleffer@epbfi.com wrote:
> As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a 
> choice as to whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice 
> was either Lockheed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for 
> less $. As far as I know, the back plates are original, but I've only 
> owned the car for 20 years. Its engine is not original, so who knows 
> what else could have been swapped.
> Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing? And how do 
> do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?
> The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines 
> are crimped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with 
> the tool, I can't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake 
> lines or are air being drawn into the bleeder because the fitment 
> isn't good.
> Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit 
> frustrating, but seems ok now.
>
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<html>
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    <p>The GT originally had the same wheel cylinders as the roadster,
      changing in May 68 for the larger item which can take more braking
      effort without locking up in the wet.Â  Incidentally the factory V8
      used the smaller ones, presumably because with the harder springs
      there was more chance of locking up over bumps.Â  You are unlikely
      to notice the difference on dry tarmac.Â  Rather than describe them
      the two types can be seen here
      <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/brakecyl.htm#3">http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/brakecyl.htm#3</a></p>
    <p>The purpose of Speedbleeders is to allow single-handed pedal
      bleeding of hydraulic systems, but they are pretty expensive for
      what they are and the number of times they are used.Â Â  They
      contain a spring-loaded valve which is normally bolted down tight,
      but when bleeding you slacken them off so that only the spring is
      keeping the valve closed.Â  Then when you press on the pedal fluid
      pressure opens the valve to let air/fluid out, and when releasing
      the pedal they close again to stop air going back in.Â  I've always
      used EeziBleed.</p>
    <p>Regardless of which method you use to get air out I've always
      found that after low pressure bleeding they are spongy and it
      needs to be done with high pressure that does need two people.Â 
      One presses down on the pedal as hard as they can while the other
      rapidly opens and closes each caliper nipple in turn, which always
      blasts a bit more air out, after that they are fine.Â  The front of
      the car needs to be a bit higher than the rear as well.<br>
    </p>
    <p>PaulH.<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 23/10/2021 18:44,
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size:
        12pt; color: #000000">As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I
        don't recall that there was a choice as to whether they were for
        a GT or a roadster. The only choice was either Lockheed brand
        (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for less $. As far as I
        know, the back plates are original, but I've only owned the car
        for 20 years. Its engine is not original, so who knows what else
        could have been swapped.Â 
        <div>Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing?
          And how do do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?</div>
        <div>The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so
          no lines are crimped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the
          bleeder thing with the tool, I can't tell if the air bubbles
          are coming through the brake lines or are air being drawn into
          the bleeder because the fitment isn't good.Â </div>
        <div>Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago.
          It was a bit frustrating, but seems ok now.</div>
      </div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 24 09:36:59 2021
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From: "dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions
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http://speedbleeder.com/

=20

many of us usually work in the garage alone.  Speedbleeders are =
fantastic!  Brakes and clutch, allows you to just bleed them.  You =
probably want to use a hose to guide the drippings; otherwise you get =
brake fluid sprayed around.  I can=E2=80=99t believe someone said they =
are expensive.  Really?  Less than $10 a pair last time I bought them.  =
Given the time and effort and money we put into these vehicles?????  My =
wife loves them; bleeding was not a favorite activity of hers.


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<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" =
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xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" =
xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" =
xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta =
name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 (filtered =
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><a =
href=3D"http://speedbleeder.com/">http://speedbleeder.com/</a><o:p></o:p>=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>many =
of us usually work in the garage alone.=C2=A0 Speedbleeders are =
fantastic!=C2=A0 Brakes and clutch, allows you to just bleed them.=C2=A0 =
You probably want to use a hose to guide the drippings; otherwise you =
get brake fluid sprayed around.=C2=A0 I can=E2=80=99t believe someone =
said they are expensive.=C2=A0 Really?=C2=A0 Less than $10 a pair last =
time I bought them.=C2=A0 Given the time and effort and money we put =
into these vehicles?????=C2=A0 My wife loves them; bleeding was not a =
favorite activity of hers.<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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From: Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2021 18:28:33 -0400
References: <1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
 <19593853-EE79-47D3-B85D-E737C024E13A@gmail.com>
 <001a01d7c8ec$c7679390$5636bab0$@ranteer.com>
To: dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net


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Hi Dave,
	The reader who commented that they were expensive is in the UK, whe=
re they usually pay in =C2=A3 what we pay in $$.    When I see the adverts f=
rom Halfords and other places that might be equivalent to our NAPA stores, I=
 feel bad that it costs so much more to support an MG habit in their home ma=
rket.
Bob


> On Oct 24, 2021, at 11:35 AM, dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
>=20
> http://speedbleeder.com/
> =20
> many of us usually work in the garage alone.  Speedbleeders are fantastic!=
  Brakes and clutch, allows you to just bleed them.  You probably want to us=
e a hose to guide the drippings; otherwise you get brake fluid sprayed aroun=
d.  I can=E2=80=99t believe someone said they are expensive.  Really?  Less t=
han $10 a pair last time I bought them.  Given the time and effort and money=
 we put into these vehicles?????  My wife loves them; bleeding was not a fav=
orite activity of hers.
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com

--Apple-Mail-C2AB5105-6536-444C-8519-83AB58FF7F3C
	charset=utf-8
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi D=
ave,</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-spa=
ce:pre">	</span>The reader who commented that they were expensive is=
 in the UK, where they usually pay in =C2=A3 what we pay in $$. &nbsp; &nbsp=
;When I see the adverts from Halfords and other places that might be equival=
ent to our NAPA stores, I feel bad that it costs so much more to support an M=
G habit in their home market.</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob</div><div dir=3D"ltr=
"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Oct 24, 2021, at 11:35 AM, dave &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:dave@ranteer.com">dave@ranteer.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div=
><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type=
" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta name=3D"Generator" content=3D=
"Microsoft Word 15 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
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	font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
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span.EmailStyle19
	{mso-style-type:personal-reply;
	font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
	color:windowtext;}
.MsoChpDefault
	{mso-style-type:export-only;
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	{size:8.5in 11.0in;
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	{page:WordSection1;}
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<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><a href=3D"http://speedbleeder.com/">http://speedbleeder.com/</a><o=
:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNorm=
al">many of us usually work in the garage alone.&nbsp; Speedbleeders are fan=
tastic!&nbsp; Brakes and clutch, allows you to just bleed them.&nbsp; You pr=
obably want to use a hose to guide the drippings; otherwise you get brake fl=
uid sprayed around.&nbsp; I can=E2=80=99t believe someone said they are expe=
nsive.&nbsp; Really?&nbsp; Less than $10 a pair last time I bought them.&nbs=
p; Given the time and effort and money we put into these vehicles?????&nbsp;=
 My wife loves them; bleeding was not a favorite activity of hers.<o:p></o:p=
></p></div></div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><sp=
an>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span><b=
r><span><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a></span><=
br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team=
.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75<=
/span><br><span></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pip=
ermail/mgs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.te=
am.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span></span><br=
><span>Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgb=
obh@gmail.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com</a=
></span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>=

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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 27 09:57:20 2021
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From: William Killeffer <wkilleffer@epbfi.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 11:56:09 -0400
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Metal dash in a later car
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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dAo=

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 27 11:03:19 2021
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 Wed, 27 Oct 2021 10:01:55 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 10:01:54 -0700
References: <BA2EC3A8-97D5-4729-ACBA-8CB69C42A4BB@epbfi.com>
To: William Killeffer <wkilleffer@epbfi.com>, Mga List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Metal dash in a later car
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============0753386788322710006==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_A7032F80-753E-48E8-A363-96293DC2A9BF"


--Apple-Mail=_A7032F80-753E-48E8-A363-96293DC2A9BF
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

Actually, I do not believe that it is a simple bolt-in. It can be done =
but requires modifications. I am sure someone knows the details.


--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On Oct 27, 2021, at 8:56 AM, William Killeffer <wkilleffer@epbfi.com> =
wrote:
>=20
> Hello everyone,=20
>=20
> My car is a 1974 CB roadster. A couple of years ago, I replaced the =
foam portion of the dashboard because it had several deep cracks in it, =
and was looking worse than shabby. My efforts to spiff it up weren=E2=80=99=
t satisfactory. So, I stripped off the old pad except for the firm foam =
that=E2=80=99s riveted to the metal dash plate and replaced it with a =
new dash pad. The instructions were pretty bad and the end result was a =
disappointment. I was so upset with it that I nearly sold the car just =
so I didn=E2=80=99t have to look at the disappointing dash anymore. I =
got over that, but am still not happy.  One part of the problem is that =
the metal plate has some rust damage due to old leaks around the =
windshield.=20
>=20
> Now, someone is selling a nice looking metal dash out of an earlier =
car. In theory, it should fit in the same spot as a padded dash and =
attach to the car the same way, right? I know some of the wiring would =
be different and have to be adapted in a non-DPO way.  Also, the 1974 =
console is not the same as the earlier cars, so I would have to find a =
way to get everything to look right. But there would no longer be a need =
to deal with that PITA dash padding any longer.=20
>=20
> Any thoughts?
>=20
> Thank you,
> -William
>=20
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net
>=20


--Apple-Mail=_A7032F80-753E-48E8-A363-96293DC2A9BF
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Actually, I do not believe that it is a simple bolt-in. It =
can be done but requires modifications. I am sure someone knows the =
details.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><div class=3D"">
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); letter-spacing: normal; text-align: =
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; word-wrap: =
break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: =
after-white-space;" class=3D""><div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0px; font-size: 13px;" =
class=3D"">--</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; font-size: 13px; =
min-height: 16px;" class=3D"">Max Heim</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; =
font-size: 13px;" class=3D"">'66 MGB</div></div></div>
</div>

<div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Oct 27, 2021, at 8:56 AM, William Killeffer &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com" =
class=3D"">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div class=3D"">Hello =
everyone, <br class=3D""><br class=3D"">My car is a 1974 CB roadster. A =
couple of years ago, I replaced the foam portion of the dashboard =
because it had several deep cracks in it, and was looking worse than =
shabby. My efforts to spiff it up weren=E2=80=99t satisfactory. So, I =
stripped off the old pad except for the firm foam that=E2=80=99s riveted =
to the metal dash plate and replaced it with a new dash pad. The =
instructions were pretty bad and the end result was a disappointment. I =
was so upset with it that I nearly sold the car just so I didn=E2=80=99t =
have to look at the disappointing dash anymore. I got over that, but am =
still not happy. &nbsp;One part of the problem is that the metal plate =
has some rust damage due to old leaks around the windshield. <br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Now, someone is selling a nice looking metal =
dash out of an earlier car. In theory, it should fit in the same spot as =
a padded dash and attach to the car the same way, right? I know some of =
the wiring would be different and have to be adapted in a non-DPO way. =
&nbsp;Also, the 1974 console is not the same as the earlier cars, so I =
would have to find a way to get everything to look right. But there =
would no longer be a need to deal with that PITA dash padding any =
longer. <br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Any thoughts?<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Thank you,<br class=3D"">-William<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Sent from my iPhone<br =
class=3D"">_______________________________________________<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">Donate: =
&nbsp;$12.75<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=

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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 29 08:41:46 2021
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From: Thomas Gunderson <thgun@comporium.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 09:00:42 -0400
To: Mga List <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Front disk upgrade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net


Has anyone used Ol Phartz Partz for disk brake kits?

1957 1500 MGA rst

Sent from my iPhone X


_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From: "dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 11:36:19 -0500
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Subject: [Mgs] NW Import Parts
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Anyone ordered from them?  Any issues?

 

What's the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts?  Moss quality just
isn't there.


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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72" style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Anyone ordered from =
them?&nbsp; Any issues?<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>What&#8217;s =
the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts?&nbsp; Moss quality =
just isn&#8217;t there.<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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References: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com>
From: David Councill <dcouncill@karamursel.org>
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 10:05:01 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] NW Import Parts
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I order from them all the time and they are quick to ship. However, Moss 
quality relates to manufacturing. And so, whether you order from Moss or 
somewhere else, you are likely seeing parts from the same source.

David Councill

67 BGT, 64 B, 72 B

On 10/29/2021 9:36 AM, dave wrote:
>
> Anyone ordered from them?  Any issues?
>
> What’s the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts?  Moss quality 
> just isn’t there.
>
>

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    <p>I order from them all the time and they are quick to ship.
      However, Moss quality relates to manufacturing. And so, whether
      you order from Moss or somewhere else, you are likely seeing parts
      from the same source. <br>
    </p>
    <p>David Councill</p>
    <p>67 BGT, 64 B, 72 B<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/29/2021 9:36 AM, dave wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com">
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        <p class="MsoNormal">Anyone ordered from them?  Any issues?<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">What’s the consensus on the best place to
          get MGB parts?  Moss quality just isn’t there.<o:p></o:p></p>
      </div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
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References: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com>
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 11:06:05 -0600
To: dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] NW Import Parts
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4157653880248681616==

--0000000000005802b405cf80d8ee
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I've used them several times over the years and had no problems. I bought a
few mild grind performance cams and an AL cylinder head.

There are only so many manufacturers for the parts in the world, so the
quality will be the same for items that come from the same manufacturer....

Lots of places are also Moss resellers, so you will get the same quality on
that too. I have seen Moss pull parts that are not good as well as issue
warnings on products with poor quality. Have you contacted them with your
issues? (There may be nothing that can be done...)

On a side note, I recently picked up another roadster. This one is a 2001
Miata.

I am disappointed at the lack of part availability for this 20 year old
car. Makes me glad I can still get parts for my 2 MGBs.

I don't know that when my Miata is fifty there will be any source for
nearly everything on it, no matter what the quality is. (Though I probably
won't be looking for parts for it in 30 years, one of my sons might have
that challenge.)

---
Andrew

On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 10:47 AM dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> Anyone ordered from them?  Any issues?
>
>
>
> What=E2=80=99s the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts?  Moss qu=
ality
> just isn=E2=80=99t there.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren@byu.net
>

--0000000000005802b405cf80d8ee
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;ve used them several times over the years and had no=
 problems. I bought a few mild grind performance cams and an AL cylinder he=
ad.<div><br></div><div>There are only so many manufacturers for the parts i=
n the world, so the quality will be the same for items that come from the s=
ame manufacturer....</div><div><br></div><div>Lots of places are also Moss =
resellers, so you will get the same quality on that too. I have seen Moss p=
ull parts that are not good as well as issue warnings on products with poor=
 quality. Have you contacted them with your issues?=C2=A0(There may be noth=
ing that can be done...)</div><div><br></div><div>On a side note, I recentl=
y picked up another roadster. This one is a 2001 Miata.=C2=A0</div><div><br=
></div><div>I am disappointed at the lack of part availability for this 20 =
year old car. Makes me glad I can still get parts for my 2 MGBs.=C2=A0</div=
><div><br></div><div>I don&#39;t know that when my Miata is fifty there wil=
l be any source for nearly everything on it, no matter what the quality is.=
 (Though I probably won&#39;t be looking for parts for it in 30 years, one =
of my sons might have that challenge.)</div><div><br></div><div>---</div><d=
iv>Andrew</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 10:47 AM dave &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:dave@ranteer.com">dave@ranteer.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote cla=
ss=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"overflow-wr=
ap: break-word;"><div class=3D"gmail-m_-4001451480983439932WordSection1"><p=
 class=3D"MsoNormal">Anyone ordered from them?=C2=A0 Any issues?<u></u><u><=
/u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal=
">What=E2=80=99s the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts?=C2=A0 Mo=
ss quality just isn=E2=80=99t there.<u></u><u></u></p></div></div>_________=
______________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Mgs@autox.team.net<=
/a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs" rel=3D"noreferrer" t=
arget=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs</a> <a href=3D"http://au=
tox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.tea=
m.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren@=
byu.net" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman=
/options/mgs/lundgren@byu.net</a><br>
</blockquote></div>

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References: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com>
From: i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 10:17:59 -0700
To: dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] NW Import Parts
Cc: mglist <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5303884677710978689==

--00000000000001cd2005cf810357
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They are local to me, but do not have pick up as an option, that said they
support our hobby, show up to our local ABFM and source from the usual
suspects.
They wanted to charge me $9.00 to ship a $6.00 part. I bought it
elsewhere with free shipping, not amazon.
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 9:46 AM dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> Anyone ordered from them?  Any issues?
>
>
>
> What=E2=80=99s the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts?  Moss qu=
ality
> just isn=E2=80=99t there.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000@gmail.co=
m
>

--00000000000001cd2005cf810357
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">They are local to me, but do not have pick up as an option=
, that said they support our hobby, show up to our local ABFM and source fr=
om the usual suspects.<div>They wanted to=C2=A0charge=C2=A0me $9.00 to ship=
 a $6.00 part. I bought it elsewhere=C2=A0with free shipping, not amazon.<b=
r clear=3D"all"><div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartm=
ail=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div di=
r=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">Ira Erbs<div>Milwaukie,OR</div><div=
><span style=3D"font-family:&#39;Times New Roman&#39;,serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 _______ =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0_______</span><b=
r style=3D"font-family:&#39;Times New Roman&#39;,serif"><span style=3D"font=
-family:&#39;Times New Roman&#39;,serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 (______ \____1=
959 BN4____/ _______)</span><br style=3D"font-family:&#39;Times New Roman&#=
39;,serif"><span style=3D"font-family:&#39;Times New Roman&#39;,serif">=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 (_________________________)</span></div><div=
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 BT7 engine and disk brakes</div><div><b=
r></div><div><br></div><div>1967 MGB =C2=A0<img src=3D"http://www.britishca=
rspecialists.com/assets/images/MG_emblem.jpg" alt=3D"MG"></div><div><br></d=
iv><div><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:&quot;Helvetica Neue=
&quot;,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:14px">A racing car is an animal=
 with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti</span><br></div><div>Please ex=
cuse random auto corrects and misspelled words</div></div></div></div></div=
></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><b=
r></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmai=
l_attr">On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 9:46 AM dave &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:dave@ran=
teer.com">dave@ranteer.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gma=
il_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,2=
04,204);padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"overflow-wrap: break=
-word;"><div class=3D"gmail-m_1859452484974817955WordSection1"><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal">Anyone ordered from them?=C2=A0 Any issues?<u></u><u></u></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">What=E2=
=80=99s the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts?=C2=A0 Moss qualit=
y just isn=E2=80=99t there.<u></u><u></u></p></div></div>__________________=
_____________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Mgs@autox.team.net<=
/a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs" rel=3D"noreferrer" t=
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m.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
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man/options/mgs/eyera3000@gmail.com</a><br>
</blockquote></div>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 31 07:59:57 2021
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From: <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'Andrew Lundgren'" <lundgren@byu.net>,
	"'dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>
References: <000401d7cce3$1a18e2c0$4e4aa840$@ranteer.com>
 <CAKr3Jn3cezUstgDL-tRog4O9NTsOFJwaXx52UqY2a1WN3tMLUw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2021 14:59:00 +0100
Thread-Index: AQI5YoY7e9/2rn4uj6MJmk7tVneQQALcy0RFqxMSI9A=
Content-Language: en-nl
Subject: Re: [Mgs] NW Import Parts
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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That=E2=80=99s the problem with Japanese products.

The products are so often altered, that specific parts will become NLA easi=
er than for the good old British classics.

I recently had this with a Japanese bicycle part of Shimano =E2=80=93 the f=
ront wheel alternator hub.

It was not old, but parts are not obtainable.

So I bought a 2nd hand hub and put all the spokes on that.

Yes =E2=80=93 it takes some time, but the result still is working for some =
years now=E2=80=A6

 

Cheers,

Hans

 

Van: Mgs <mgs-bounces@autox.team.net> Namens Andrew Lundgren
Verzonden: Friday, 29 October 2021 19:06
Aan: dave <dave@ranteer.com>
CC: mgs@autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] NW Import Parts

 

I've used them several times over the years and had no problems. I bought a=
 few mild grind performance cams and an AL cylinder head.

 

There are only so many manufacturers for the parts in the world, so the qua=
lity will be the same for items that come from the same manufacturer....

 

Lots of places are also Moss resellers, so you will get the same quality on=
 that too. I have seen Moss pull parts that are not good as well as issue w=
arnings on products with poor quality. Have you contacted them with your is=
sues? (There may be nothing that can be done...)

 

On a side note, I recently picked up another roadster. This one is a 2001 M=
iata. 

 

I am disappointed at the lack of part availability for this 20 year old car=
=2E Makes me glad I can still get parts for my 2 MGBs. 

 

I don't know that when my Miata is fifty there will be any source for nearl=
y everything on it, no matter what the quality is. (Though I probably won't=
 be looking for parts for it in 30 years, one of my sons might have that ch=
allenge.)

 

---

Andrew

 

r.com> > wrote:

Anyone ordered from them?  Any issues?

 

What=E2=80=99s the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts?  Moss qual=
ity just isn=E2=80=99t there.

_______________________________________________


Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DNL link=3Dblue vlink=
=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=
=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>That=
=E2=80=99s the problem with Japanese products.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p clas=
s=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>The p=
roducts are so often altered, that specific parts will become NLA easier th=
an for the good old British classics.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>I recently had=
 this with a Japanese bicycle part of Shimano =E2=80=93 the front wheel alt=
ernator hub.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB s=
tyle=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>It was not old, but parts are not obtai=
nable.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=
=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>So I bought a 2<sup>nd</sup> hand hub and p=
ut all the spokes on that.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Yes =E2=80=93 it takes so=
me time, but the result still is working for some years now=E2=80=A6<o:p></=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast=
-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lan=
g=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Cheers,<o:p></o:p></span></p=
><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-U=
S'>Hans<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=
=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div style=3D'b=
order:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal><b>Van:</b> Mgs &lt;mgs-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; <b>Namens=
 </b>Andrew Lundgren<br><b>Verzonden:</b> Friday, 29 October 2021 19:06<br>=
<b>Aan:</b> dave &lt;dave@ranteer.com&gt;<br><b>CC:</b> mgs@autox.team.net<=
br><b>Onderwerp:</b> Re: [Mgs] NW Import Parts<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=
=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I've used them =
several times over the years and had no problems. I bought a few mild grind=
 performance cams and an AL cylinder head.<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMs=
oNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>There are only=
 so many manufacturers for the parts in the world, so the quality will be t=
he same for items that come from the same manufacturer....<o:p></o:p></p></=
div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMs=
oNormal>Lots of places are also Moss resellers, so you will get the same qu=
ality on that too. I have seen Moss pull parts that are not good as well as=
 issue warnings on products with poor quality. Have you contacted them with=
 your issues?&nbsp;(There may be nothing that can be done...)<o:p></o:p></p=
></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=
=3DMsoNormal>On a side note, I recently picked up another roadster. This on=
e is a 2001 Miata.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p=
>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I am disappointed at the l=
ack of part availability for this 20 year old car. Makes me glad I can stil=
l get parts for my 2 MGBs.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNor=
mal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I don't know that =
when my Miata is fifty there will be any source for nearly everything on it=
, no matter what the quality is. (Though I probably won't be looking for pa=
rts for it in 30 years, one of my sons might have that challenge.)<o:p></o:=
p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p cl=
ass=3DMsoNormal>---<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Andrew<o:=
p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div=
><p class=3DMsoNormal>On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 10:47 AM dave &lt;<a href=3D"=
mailto:dave@ranteer.com">dave@ranteer.com</a>&gt; wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></di=
v><blockquote style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:=
0cm 0cm 0cm 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm'><div><div><p class=3D=
MsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><spa=
n lang=3DEN-US>Anyone ordered from them?&nbsp; Any issues?<o:p></o:p></span=
></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-botto=
m-alt:auto'><span lang=3DEN-US>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lan=
g=3DEN-US>What=E2=80=99s the consensus on the best place to get MGB parts?&=
nbsp; Moss quality just isn=E2=80=99t there.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></d=
iv><p class=3DMsoNormal>_______________________________________________<br>=
<br><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Mgs@autox.team.=
net</a><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_b=
lank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested annual donation&nbsp=
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undgren@byu.net</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></div><div id=3D"DAB4F=
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