Subject: Re: [Mgs] Distributor woes

From: Max Heim <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2025 22:21:16 -0800

Simon, I don’t even try to replace points or the condenser with the distributor in the car. You can’t see what you are doing, it’s easy to cross thread the tiny screws, and especially easy to drop them into the interdimensional void. I pull the distributor, and replace the parts on my bench, supporting it in the bench vise. This also allows a thorough inspection and cleaning if necessary.

I may have to fine tune the point gap in the car after running it, but that only requires loosening screws, not removing them.

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 27, 2025, at 3:09 PM, Simon Matthews <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> I have already asked on a forum, but I thought that I would reach out
> on the mailing list also.
> 
> I am struggling to insert the screw that holds the capacitor down in
> the distributor. There is a black wire hanging that I believe also
> needs to be fastened down with the same screw. I am replacing the
> capacitor because of poor running.
> 
> The screw in my distributor has a cross-head pattern. Barney shows
> this screw and the one that holds down the contact points as the same
> screw type (2BA), but Moss shows only one screw and it has a slotted
> head. It is also considerably longer than the screw I am dealing with
> (see photos in
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/iNTC9auUAdve94G1A ). The screw that I have
> looks similar to the one in this video:
> https://youtu.be/9x51poyZLa8?t=1271
> 
> The screw that I have doesn't have a good head -- the cross is a bit
> mangled. Has anyone got any suggestions on:
> 1. Is this the correct screw?
> 2. Is it correct that the screw holds down both the black wire and the
> capacitor?
> 3. Are there any tricks to getting the screw into place, without
> removing the distributor?
> 
> Many thanks,
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> 
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From: Richard Lindsay <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2025 06:18:27 -0600

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Excellent advice - being one who once dropped a screw into
that interdimensional void you reference! Good time to clean, check, and
lubricate everything too. Especially check for bushing wear and worn pivots
in the centrifugal advance. When worn oval, those holes bugger slow idle
stability.

Two cents please.

Rick - previous MG owner

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<div dir=3D"auto">Excellent advice - being one who once dropped a screw int=
o that=C2=A0interdimensional void you reference! Good time to clean, check,=
 and lubricate everything too. Especially check for bushing wear and worn p=
ivots in the centrifugal advance. When worn oval, those holes bugger slow i=
dle stability.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Two cents pleas=
e.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick - previous=
 MG owner</div></div>

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[email-masked]

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From: Douglas Shook <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2025 04:50:27 -0800

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Hi Simon,

Question #1:
I am not certain which model distributor you have, but is this the screw
you are referring to?
Screw, for points, 2BA X 3/8" | Moss Motors
<https://mossmotors.com/323-245-screw-for-points-2ba-x-3-8>

Question #2
No, the black wire is the feed to the coil and needs to be under the nut on
the points spring. It should contact the spring but not the stud. Ensure
that you have a good insulator on that post/stud to separate the spring
from the stud.

The screw retaining the condenser provides the ground to the condenser. Any
good mechanical connection there would suffice, but I do not know which
distributor you have.

Question #3
If you use steel screws you can use a magnetic screwdriver to hold it while
you position it to screw it in. You also can use masking tape to cover the
openings if you are afraid of dropping the screw into a crevice.

On Sat, Dec 27, 2025 at 3:02=E2=80=AFPM Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gm=
ail.com>
wrote:

> https://youtu.be/9x51poyZLa8?t=3D1271
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]=
m

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Hi =
Simon,</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br></di=
v><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Question #1:</div>=
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">I am not certain whi=
ch model distributor=C2=A0you have, but is this the screw you are=C2=A0refe=
rring to?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><a hr=
ef=3D"https://mossmotors.com/323-245-screw-for-points-2ba-x-3-8">Screw, for=
 points, 2BA X 3/8&quot; | Moss Motors</a></div><div class=3D"gmail_default=
" style=3D"font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D=
"font-size:small">Question #2</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"fo=
nt-size:small">No, the black wire is the feed to the coil and needs to be u=
nder the nut on the points spring. It should=C2=A0contact the spring but no=
t the stud. Ensure that you have a good insulator on that post/stud to sepa=
rate=C2=A0the spring from the stud.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-s=
ize:small">The screw retaining the condenser provides the ground to the con=
denser. Any good mechanical connection there would suffice, but I do not kn=
ow which distributor you have.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"f=
ont-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:s=
mall">Question #3</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:smal=
l">If you use steel screws you can use a magnetic screwdriver to hold it wh=
ile you position it to screw it in. You also can use masking tape to cover =
the openings if you are afraid of dropping the screw=C2=A0into a crevice.</=
div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir=3D"=
ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 27, 2025 at 3:02=E2=80=AFPM Simon Mat=
thews &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">simon.d.matthews@gm=
ail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"=
margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-lef=
t:1ex">I have already asked on a forum, but I thought that I would reach ou=
t<br>
on the mailing list also.<br>
<br>
I am struggling to insert the screw that holds the capacitor down in<br>
the distributor. There is a black wire hanging that I believe also<br>
needs to be fastened down with the same screw. I am replacing the<br>
capacitor because of poor running.<br>
<br>
The screw in my distributor has a cross-head pattern. Barney shows<br>
this screw and the one that holds down the contact points as the same<br>
screw type (2BA), but Moss shows only one screw and it has a slotted<br>
head. It is also considerably longer than the screw I am dealing with<br>
(see photos in<br>
<a href=3D"https://photos.app.goo.gl/iNTC9auUAdve94G1A" rel=3D"noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">https://photos.app.goo.gl/iNTC9auUAdve94G1A</a> ). The sc=
rew that I have<br>
looks similar to the one in this video:<br>
<a href=3D"https://youtu.be/9x51poyZLa8?t=3D1271" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">https://youtu.be/9x51poyZLa8?t=3D1271</a><br>
<br>
The screw that I have doesn&#39;t have a good head -- the cross is a bit<br=
mangled. Has anyone got any suggestions on:<br>
1. Is this the correct screw?<br>
2. Is it correct that the screw holds down both the black wire and the<br>
capacitor?<br>
3. Are there any tricks to getting the screw into place, without<br>
removing the distributor?<br>
<br>
Many thanks,<br>
Simon<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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/a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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</blockquote></div>

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From: Douglas Shook <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2025 04:57:13 -0800

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Well, one definitely could remove the distributor everytime the points are
replaced, but that honestly seems like overkill to me.

I simply use painters tape over the openings and a magnetic screwdriver.
Maybe I am living dangerously, but I have changed many sets of points over
the last 50 years and never needed to remove the distributor to do so.

On Sun, Dec 28, 2025 at 4:22=E2=80=AFAM Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gm=
ail.com>
wrote:

> lubricate everything too. Especially check for bushing wear and worn pivo=
ts
m

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Wel=
l, one definitely could remove the distributor everytime the points are rep=
laced, but that honestly seems like overkill=C2=A0to me.</div><div class=3D=
"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_def=
ault" style=3D"font-size:small">I simply use painters tape over the opening=
s and a magnetic screwdriver. Maybe I am living dangerously, but I have cha=
nged many sets of points over the last 50 years and never needed to remove =
the distributor to do so.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_qu=
ote_container"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 28, 2025 a=
t 4:22=E2=80=AFAM Richard Lindsay &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:richardolindsay@gma=
il.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rg=
b(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Excellent advice - being=
 one who once dropped a screw into that=C2=A0interdimensional void you refe=
rence! Good time to clean, check, and lubricate everything too. Especially =
check for bushing wear and worn pivots in the centrifugal advance. When wor=
n oval, those holes bugger slow idle stability.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>=
<div dir=3D"auto">Two cents please.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>=
<div dir=3D"auto">Rick - previous MG owner</div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]<=
/a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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</blockquote></div>

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From: Paul Hunt <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2025 14:32:22 +0000

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On a 25D4 the coil wire from the harness is white with a black stripe 
and is external to the distributor and connects to a spade terminal on 
the outside of the distributor.  Internally there is a brown 
cloth-covered tinsel strand wire from the spade that sits under an 
insulator and nut on the points.  It needs to be electrically isolated 
from both nut and stud.

Whilst on the 45D4 it is black, is the coil wire and does pass through 
the distributor body, it is factory-attached to the and is the live side 
not the earth.  It has a tab that slides under a folded over section of 
the points spring, there is no nut, just an insulator that sits between 
the spring and a support.  A short length of wire is external ending in  
male spade connector connecting to the white/black harness wire.

Originally the 25D4 had an earth wire spot-welded and riveted to the 
points plate, 45D4 used a through-hole terminal under the condenser 
screw so that screw needs to be long enough to hold both securely.  But 
make sure neither points nor condenser screw are too long or they can 
foul the weights and cause running problems. Like the 25D4 internal coil 
connection the earth wire was originally a very flexible brown cloth 
insulated tinsel-stranded wire going to one of the screws securing the 
fixed part of the points plate to the distributor body.  Not generally 
available, if they (both coil and earth wires) fail standard wire 
probably won't last very long as the points plate is continually 
twisting back and fore as the throttle is opened and closed - if you 
have vacuum advance.

Unless you are replacing the screw that came out make sure it will fit 
before putting the condenser in position.

On 28/12/2025 12:50, Douglas Shook wrote:
>
> Question #2
> No, the black wire is the feed to the coil and needs to be under the 
> nut on the points spring. It should contact the spring but not the 
> stud. Ensure that you have a good insulator on that post/stud to 
> separate the spring from the stud.
>
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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>On a 25D4 the coil wire from the harness is white with a black
      stripe and is external to the distributor and connects to a spade
      terminal on the outside of the distributor.  Internally there is a
      brown cloth-covered tinsel strand wire from the spade that sits
      under an insulator and nut on the points.  It needs to be
      electrically isolated from both nut and stud.  <br>
    </p>
    <p>Whilst on the 45D4 it is black, is the coil wire and does pass
      through the distributor body, it is factory-attached to the and is
      the live side not the earth.  It has a tab that slides under a
      folded over section of the points spring, there is no nut, just an
      insulator that sits between the spring and a support.  A short
      length of wire is external ending in  male spade connector
      connecting to the white/black harness wire.</p>
    <p>Originally the 25D4 had an earth wire spot-welded and riveted to
      the points plate, 45D4 used a through-hole terminal under the
      condenser screw so that screw needs to be long enough to hold both
      securely.  But make sure neither points nor condenser screw are
      too long or they can foul the weights and cause running problems. 
      Like the 25D4 internal coil connection the earth wire was
      originally a very flexible brown cloth insulated tinsel-stranded
      wire going to one of the screws securing the fixed part of the
      points plate to the distributor body.  Not generally available, if
      they (both coil and earth wires) fail standard wire probably won't
      last very long as the points plate is continually twisting back
      and fore as the throttle is opened and closed - if you have vacuum
      advance.
      <br>
      <br>
      Unless you are replacing the screw that came out make sure it will
      fit before putting the condenser in position.
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 28/12/2025 12:50, Douglas Shook
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAG1pxgaakLTAPOPkko=[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr"><br>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">Question #2</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">No, the black
          wire is the feed to the coil and needs to be under the nut on
          the points spring. It should contact the spring but not the
          stud. Ensure that you have a good insulator on that post/stud
          to separate the spring from the stud.</div>
      </div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
  </body>
</html>

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From: Douglas Shook <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2025 07:00:48 -0800

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Yes, Paul is right. I did not enlarge the photo until now and misread the
wiring.

On Sun, Dec 28, 2025 at 6:35=E2=80=AFAM Paul Hunt <[email-masked]> w=
rote:

> On a 25D4 the coil wire from the harness is white with a black stripe and
> is external to the distributor and connects to a spade terminal on the
> outside of the distributor.  Internally there is a brown cloth-covered
> tinsel strand wire from the spade that sits under an insulator and nut on
> the points.  It needs to be electrically isolated from both nut and stud.
>
> Whilst on the 45D4 it is black, is the coil wire and does pass through th=
e
> distributor body, it is factory-attached to the and is the live side not
> the earth.  It has a tab that slides under a folded over section of the
> points spring, there is no nut, just an insulator that sits between the
> spring and a support.  A short length of wire is external ending in  male
> spade connector connecting to the white/black harness wire.
>
> points plate, 45D4 used a through-hole terminal under the condenser screw
> so that screw needs to be long enough to hold both securely.  But make su=
re
> neither points nor condenser screw are too long or they can foul the
> weights and cause running problems.  Like the 25D4 internal coil connecti=
on
> the earth wire was originally a very flexible brown cloth insulated
> tinsel-stranded wire going to one of the screws securing the fixed part o=
f
> the points plate to the distributor body.  Not generally available, if th=
ey
> (both coil and earth wires) fail standard wire probably won't last very
> long as the points plate is continually twisting back and fore as the
> throttle is opened and closed - if you have vacuum advance.
>
> No, the black wire is the feed to the coil and needs to be under the nut
> on the points spring. It should contact the spring but not the stud. Ensu=
re
m

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Yes=
, Paul is right. I did not enlarge the photo until now and misread the wiri=
ng.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div di=
r=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 28, 2025 at 6:35=E2=80=AFAM Paul=
 Hunt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><u>=
</u>

 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    <p>On a 25D4 the coil wire from the harness is white with a black
      stripe and is external to the distributor and connects to a spade
      terminal on the outside of the distributor.=C2=A0 Internally there is=
 a
      brown cloth-covered tinsel strand wire from the spade that sits
      under an insulator and nut on the points.=C2=A0 It needs to be
      electrically isolated from both nut and stud.=C2=A0 <br>
    </p>
    <p>Whilst on the 45D4 it is black, is the coil wire and does pass
      through the distributor body, it is factory-attached to the and is
      the live side not the earth.=C2=A0 It has a tab that slides under a
      folded over section of the points spring, there is no nut, just an
      insulator that sits between the spring and a support.=C2=A0 A short
      length of wire is external ending in=C2=A0 male spade connector
      connecting to the white/black harness wire.</p>
    <p>Originally the 25D4 had an earth wire spot-welded and riveted to
      the points plate, 45D4 used a through-hole terminal under the
      condenser screw so that screw needs to be long enough to hold both
      securely.=C2=A0 But make sure neither points nor condenser screw are
      too long or they can foul the weights and cause running problems.=C2=
=A0
      Like the 25D4 internal coil connection the earth wire was
      originally a very flexible brown cloth insulated tinsel-stranded
      wire going to one of the screws securing the fixed part of the
      points plate to the distributor body.=C2=A0 Not generally available, =
if
      they (both coil and earth wires) fail standard wire probably won&#39;=
t
      last very long as the points plate is continually twisting back
      and fore as the throttle is opened and closed - if you have vacuum
      advance.
      <br>
      <br>
      Unless you are replacing the screw that came out make sure it will
      fit before putting the condenser in position.
    </p>
    <div>On 28/12/2025 12:50, Douglas Shook
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Question #2<=
/div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">No, the blac=
k
          wire is the feed to the coil and needs to be under the nut on
          the points spring. It should=C2=A0contact the spring but not the
          stud. Ensure that you have a good insulator on that post/stud
          to separate=C2=A0the spring from the stud.</div>
      </div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
  </div>

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