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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 12:09:24 -0500
User-Agent: OEClassic/5.4.1 (Win10.19045; P; 2026-08-13)
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 mail.backend.jedi.jws.acl:role.jedi.acl.token.atz.jws.hermes.yahoo
Subject: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4058007733600194813==

--------------040902010308090502060201
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

Hi all
=20
My 30 year old=20
8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tub=
e)
the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
=20
Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8'=20
led tubes are expensive too ...=20
=20
I was gifted a box of 20=20
4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat sink)
=20
option 1=20
if I use these I'd=20
have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure out the
shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' to 4' fixture conversion ki=
ts=20
(adding the middle tombstones
=20
option 2
8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' fluorescent) and=
 use=20
a ballast
not great reviews when shipped...
=20
option 3
=20
replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights and =
hope=20
they work
=20
comments on options ????
=20
questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I using m=
ore electricity using the ballast=20
and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
=20
=20
please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
=20
=20
=20
--------------040902010308090502060201
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

<HTML><HEAD>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 11.00.10570.1001"></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">Hi all</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin)&nbsp;garag=
e fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (=
16-20 bucks a tube)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">Want to change to led... lots of options&nbsp;=
 - 8' led tubes are expensive too ... </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that =
work with a ballast...(heat sink)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">option 1 </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">if I use these I'd have to change all the tomb=
stones to bi-pin and figure out the</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">shunted vs non shunted type...&nbsp; AND find =
the 8' to 4' fixture conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones</FONT></=
DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">option 2</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same=
 price as 8' fluorescent) and use a ballast</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">not great reviews when shipped...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">option 3</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">replace all the crap with the internet special=
s&nbsp; linkable stick lights and hope they work</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">comments on options ????</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">questions... when using the ballast type plug =
and plays... aren't I using more electricity using the ballast </FONT></DIV=
>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">and heating it up... is there any savings here=
 ???</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">please educate the old dummy on best (least ex=
pensive) options</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>
--------------040902010308090502060201--


--===============4058007733600194813==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============4058007733600194813==--


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References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
From: Eric Russell <ejrussell61@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 13:24:08 -0400
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7496196577797901884==

--000000000000ad2c17065e34c91b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have changed all the 4' fluorescents in our garage to the eLcheapo (tm)
LED linkable sticks. After 5+ years I've had one fail out of 12. I bought a
few extras when they went on sale. Also (if it matters) no problems with
them working in cold weather. (OK, cold in North Carolina may not be cold
elsewhere but the fluorescents I had would often not work when it was
cold.)

EjR

On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 1:17=E2=80=AFPM john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote=
:

> Hi all
>
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4
> total double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
>
> Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive to=
o
> ...
>
> I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat
> sink)
>
> option 1
> if I use these I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure
> out the
> shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' to 4' fixture conversion
> kits (adding the middle tombstones
>
> option 2
> 8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' fluorescent)
> and use a ballast
> not great reviews when shipped...
>
> option 3
>
> replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights an=
d
> hope they work
>
> comments on options ????
>
> questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I using
> more electricity using the ballast
> and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
>
>
> please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000ad2c17065e34c91b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:large">I h=
ave changed all the 4&#39; fluorescents=C2=A0in our garage to the eLcheapo =
(tm) LED linkable sticks. After 5+ years I&#39;ve had one fail out of 12. I=
 bought a few extras when they went on sale. Also (if it matters) no proble=
ms with them working in cold weather. (OK, cold in North Carolina may not b=
e cold elsewhere but the fluorescents I had would often not work when it wa=
s cold.)=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:large">=
<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:large">EjR=C2=A0<=
/div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir=3D=
"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 1:17=E2=80=AFPM john nio=
lon &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">jniolon@att.net</a>&gt; wrote:<b=
r></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">

<div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">Hi all</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">My 30 year old 8&#39; t-12 (single pin)=C2=A0g=
arage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (=
16-20 bucks a tube)</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">Want to change to led... lots of options=C2=A0=
 - 8&#39; led tubes are expensive too ... </font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">I was gifted a box of 20 4&#39; bi-pin bulbs t=
hat work with a ballast...(heat sink)</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">option 1 </font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">if I use these I&#39;d have to change all the =
tombstones to bi-pin and figure out the</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">shunted vs non shunted type...=C2=A0 AND find =
the 8&#39; to 4&#39; fixture conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones<=
/font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">option 2</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">8&#39; type a led single pin tubes (about the =
same price as 8&#39; fluorescent) and use a ballast</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">not great reviews when shipped...</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">option 3</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">replace all the crap with the internet special=
s=C2=A0 linkable stick lights and hope they work</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">comments on options ????</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">questions... when using the ballast type plug =
and plays... aren&#39;t I using more electricity using the ballast </font><=
/div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">and heating it up... is there any savings here=
 ???</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">please educate the old dummy on best (least ex=
pensive) options</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div></div>_____________________=
__________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/ejrussell61@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 19 11:55:49 2026
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 13:37:56 -0400
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============8037492474187336582==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_B79E95CE-618D-4F19-B7DF-0B8D740F4C2B"


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Just put in some 4' integrated LEDs and get on with life. All other =
options for non-commercial use are a kludge and a time sink. I used =
these in the basement and they're working fine:

 =
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-4-ft-Light-LED-Strip-Shop-Light/5000858=
987

jim

> On Oct 19, 2026, at 1:09 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
>=20
> Hi all
> =20
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly =
dying...(4 total double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
> =20
> Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive =
too ...
> =20
> I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a =
ballast...(heat sink)
> =20
> option 1
> if I use these I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and =
figure out the
> shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' to 4' fixture =
conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones
> =20
> option 2
> 8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' =
fluorescent) and use a ballast
> not great reviews when shipped...
> =20
> option 3
> =20
> replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights =
and hope they work
> =20
> comments on options ????
> =20
> questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I =
using more electricity using the ballast
> and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
> =20
> =20
> please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
> =20
> =20
> =20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
>=20


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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"></head><body style="overflow-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;">Just put in some 4' integrated LEDs and get on with life. All other options for non-commercial use are a kludge and a time sink. I used these in the basement and they're working fine:<div><br></div><div><div style="display: block;">&nbsp;<a href="https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-4-ft-Light-LED-Strip-Shop-Light/5000858987">https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-4-ft-Light-LED-Strip-Shop-Light/5000858987</a></div></div><div style="display: block;"><br></div><div style="display: block;">jim</div><div><div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div>On Oct 19, 2026, at 1:09 PM, john niolon &lt;jniolon@att.net&gt; wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div>
<meta name="GENERATOR" content="MSHTML 11.00.10570.1001">
<div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">Hi all</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin)&nbsp;garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">Want to change to led... lots of options&nbsp; - 8' led tubes are expensive too ... </font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat sink)</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">option 1 </font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">if I use these I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure out the</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">shunted vs non shunted type...&nbsp; AND find the 8' to 4' fixture conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">option 2</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' fluorescent) and use a ballast</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">not great reviews when shipped...</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">option 3</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">replace all the crap with the internet specials&nbsp; linkable stick lights and hope they work</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">comments on options ????</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I using more electricity using the ballast </font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">and heating it up... is there any savings here ???</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI">please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options</font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div></div>_______________________________________________<br><br>Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive<br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org<br><br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>
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 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
From: John Bach <jbach@swiftrecruiters.com>
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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My garage has 12 4 foot 2 tube fixtures. about 5 years ago I dumped all 
the fluorescent bulbs and ballasts and went to led. Tombstones were fast 
and easy to change. Only need to do 1 end. Rewiring took 5 minutes per 
fixture. I used all 5000k daylight bulbs. Tremendous difference. I now 
have light in corners that were just shadows. I am in NW Ohio where it 
gets very cold. I put some in my shed and trailer with no heat and they 
come on immediately. I don't know for you if 4 foot or 8 foot will be 
cheaper but I do know I would do it again. Actually option 1 sounds like 
the way to go if 1 8 foot ballast will light 2 4 foot bulbs. I don't 
know that answer. If you need to buy more ballasts that could be bad. I 
used all no-ballast bulbs. Good luck.

On 10/19/2026 1:09 PM, john niolon wrote:
> Hi all
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly 
> dying...(4 total double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
> Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive 
> too ...
> I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a 
> ballast...(heat sink)
> option 1
> if I use these I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and 
> figure out the
> shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' to 4' fixture 
> conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones
> option 2
> 8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' 
> fluorescent) and use a ballast
> not great reviews when shipped...
> option 3
> replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights 
> and hope they work
> comments on options ????
> questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I 
> using more electricity using the ballast
> and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
> please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jbach@swiftrecruiters.com
>
--------------0vBcX2KnUkdawcVJt9VEYLuF
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<!DOCTYPE html>
<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>My garage has 12 4 foot 2 tube fixtures. about 5 years ago I
      dumped all the fluorescent bulbs and ballasts and went to led.
      Tombstones were fast and easy to change. Only need to do 1 end.
      Rewiring took 5 minutes per fixture. I used all 5000k daylight
      bulbs. Tremendous difference. I now have light in corners that
      were just shadows. I am in NW Ohio where it gets very cold. I put
      some in my shed and trailer with no heat and they come on
      immediately. I don't know for you if 4 foot or 8 foot will be
      cheaper but I do know I would do it again. Actually option 1
      sounds like the way to go if 1 8 foot ballast will light 2 4 foot
      bulbs. I don't know that answer. If you need to buy more ballasts
      that could be bad. I used all no-ballast bulbs. Good luck.</p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/19/2026 1:09 PM, john niolon
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <meta name="GENERATOR" content="MSHTML 11.00.10570.1001">
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">Hi all</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single
          pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)</font></div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">the old t-12s are hard to find and
          expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">Want to change to led... lots of
          options  - 8' led tubes are expensive too ... </font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin
          bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat sink)</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">option 1 </font></div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">if I use these I'd have to change all
          the tombstones to bi-pin and figure out the</font></div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">shunted vs non shunted type...  AND
          find the 8' to 4' fixture conversion kits (adding the middle
          tombstones</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">option 2</font></div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">8' type a led single pin tubes (about
          the same price as 8' fluorescent) and use a ballast</font></div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">not great reviews when shipped...</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">option 3</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">replace all the crap with the internet
          specials  linkable stick lights and hope they work</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">comments on options ????</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">questions... when using the ballast
          type plug and plays... aren't I using more electricity using
          the ballast </font></div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">and heating it up... is there any
          savings here ???</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font face="Segoe UI">please educate the old dummy on best
          (least expensive) options</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div> </div>
      <div> </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
      <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
  </body>
</html>

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References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 14:43:53 -0400
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8009442789565770665==

--0000000000000746bf065e35e606
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I bought these at Lowe's and I am quite happy with them:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Ultra-Bright-LED-Direct-Wire-32-Watt-EQ-T8-Dayl=
ight-Medium-Bi-pin-g13-LED-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5013821001
They are super bright - at least twice as bright as the old fluorescent
bulbs I was using.  They are "direct wire", so I had to tear out the
ballasts, but that was easy to do.

They also make a version that is 96" long with single-pin bases:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Ultra-Bright-Direct-Wire-250-Watt-EQ-T8-Dayligh=
t-Single-Pin-T8-LED-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5013822219

Doug

On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 1:24=E2=80=AFPM john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote=
:

> Hi all
>
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4
> total double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
>
> Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive to=
o
> ...
>
>

--0000000000000746bf065e35e606
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div>I bought these at Lowe&#39=
;s and I am quite happy with them:=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://www.lowes.com/pd=
/GE-Ultra-Bright-LED-Direct-Wire-32-Watt-EQ-T8-Daylight-Medium-Bi-pin-g13-L=
ED-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5013821001">https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Ultra-Bright-L=
ED-Direct-Wire-32-Watt-EQ-T8-Daylight-Medium-Bi-pin-g13-LED-Light-Bulb-2-Pa=
ck/5013821001</a></div><div>They are super bright - at least twice as brigh=
t as the old fluorescent bulbs I was using.=C2=A0 They are &quot;direct wir=
e&quot;, so I had to tear out the ballasts, but that was easy to do.</div><=
div><br></div><div>They also make a version that is 96&quot; long with sing=
le-pin bases:=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Ultra-Bright-Dire=
ct-Wire-250-Watt-EQ-T8-Daylight-Single-Pin-T8-LED-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5013822=
219">https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Ultra-Bright-Direct-Wire-250-Watt-EQ-T8-Da=
ylight-Single-Pin-T8-LED-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/5013822219</a></div><div><br></d=
iv><div>Doug</div><div><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_cont=
ainer"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 1:24=
=E2=80=AFPM john niolon &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">jniolon@att.=
net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"marg=
in:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1e=
x">

<div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">Hi all</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">My 30 year old 8&#39; t-12 (single pin)=C2=A0g=
arage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (=
16-20 bucks a tube)</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">Want to change to led... lots of options=C2=A0=
 - 8&#39; led tubes are expensive too ... </font></div><div>=C2=A0</div></d=
iv></blockquote></div></div>

--0000000000000746bf065e35e606--

--===============8009442789565770665==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============8009442789565770665==--

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References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
 <97147E8C-F24F-4C23-9CD4-2CD896F69244@groupwbench.org>
From: Douglas Shook <dirtbeard@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 11:47:17 -0700
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4497182968255836267==

--0000000000003847d5065e35f2c2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I replaced my 8' single pin fluorescents with these non-ballast single pin
LEDs about four years ago, no problems, terrific light, it was a very good
decision for me:
JESLED T8/T10/T12 8FT LED Tube Light Bulbs, 50W 6000LM, 5000K Daylight
White, 8 Foot Single Pin FA8 LED Fluorescent Replacement for Shops Garage
Light Fixtures, ETL Listed, Remove Ballast (4-Pack) - Amazon.com
<https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MC1FW3?ref_=3Dppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asi=
n_title_12&th=3D1>

On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 10:59=E2=80=AFAM Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.o=
rg>
wrote:

> Just put in some 4' integrated LEDs and get on with life. All other
> options for non-commercial use are a kludge and a time sink. I used these
> in the basement and they're working fine:
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-4-ft-Light-LED-Strip-Shop-Light/500085=
8987
>
> jim
>
> On Oct 19, 2026, at 1:09 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4
> total double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
>
> Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive to=
o
> ...
>
> I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat
> sink)
>
> option 1
> if I use these I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure
> out the
> shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' to 4' fixture conversion
> kits (adding the middle tombstones
>
> option 2
> 8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' fluorescent)
> and use a ballast
> not great reviews when shipped...
>
> option 3
>
> replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights an=
d
> hope they work
>
> comments on options ????
>
> questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I using
> more electricity using the ballast
> and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
>
>
> please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com
>
>

--0000000000003847d5065e35f2c2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">I r=
eplaced my 8&#39; single=C2=A0pin fluorescents with these non-ballast singl=
e pin LEDs about four years ago, no problems, terrific light, it was a very=
 good decision for me:</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size=
:small"><a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MC1FW3?ref_=3Dppx_hzsearch=
_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_12&amp;th=3D1">JESLED T8/T10/T12 8FT LED Tube Lig=
ht Bulbs, 50W 6000LM, 5000K Daylight White, 8 Foot Single Pin FA8 LED Fluor=
escent Replacement for Shops Garage Light Fixtures, ETL Listed, Remove Ball=
ast (4-Pack) - Amazon.com</a></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmai=
l_quote_container"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Oct 19, 20=
26 at 10:59=E2=80=AFAM Jim Franklin &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbenc=
h.org">jamesf@groupwbench.org</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"=
gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(20=
4,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div>Just put in some 4&#39; integrated LEDs a=
nd get on with life. All other options for non-commercial use are a kludge =
and a time sink. I used these in the basement and they&#39;re working fine:=
<div><br></div><div><div style=3D"display:block">=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://w=
ww.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-4-ft-Light-LED-Strip-Shop-Light/5000858987" targe=
t=3D"_blank">https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-4-ft-Light-LED-Strip-Shop-L=
ight/5000858987</a></div></div><div style=3D"display:block"><br></div><div =
style=3D"display:block">jim</div><div><div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><d=
iv>On Oct 19, 2026, at 1:09 PM, john niolon &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jniolon@a=
tt.net" target=3D"_blank">jniolon@att.net</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br><div>

<div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">Hi all</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">My 30 year old 8&#39; t-12 (single pin)=C2=A0g=
arage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (=
16-20 bucks a tube)</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">Want to change to led... lots of options=C2=A0=
 - 8&#39; led tubes are expensive too ... </font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">I was gifted a box of 20 4&#39; bi-pin bulbs t=
hat work with a ballast...(heat sink)</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">option 1 </font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">if I use these I&#39;d have to change all the =
tombstones to bi-pin and figure out the</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">shunted vs non shunted type...=C2=A0 AND find =
the 8&#39; to 4&#39; fixture conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones<=
/font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">option 2</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">8&#39; type a led single pin tubes (about the =
same price as 8&#39; fluorescent) and use a ballast</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">not great reviews when shipped...</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">option 3</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">replace all the crap with the internet special=
s=C2=A0 linkable stick lights and hope they work</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">comments on options ????</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">questions... when using the ballast type plug =
and plays... aren&#39;t I using more electricity using the ballast </font><=
/div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">and heating it up... is there any savings here=
 ???</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">please educate the old dummy on best (least ex=
pensive) options</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>=C2=A0</div></div>_____________________=
__________________________<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.ne=
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esf@groupwbench.org</a><br><br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div>___=
____________________________________________<br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
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</blockquote></div>

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From: Brian and Wendy Warrick <maynerdfamily@msn.com>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>, john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Eric Russell" <ejrussell61@gmail.com>,
 "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2026 14:59:36 -0500
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1933259588573642662==

--------------090901090403040408080903
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

after considering all the options and work involved and cost...=20
I'm just gonna scrap what I got and I've order a 10 pacl
of the stick light linking ones and install those... 6 will do what I need =
so=20
I'll have 4 spares and will probably get more light
than the flor tubes (especially since 4 bulbs are burned out now) :-) =20
=20
thanks for all the input
=20
john
=20
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Russell <ejrussell61@gmail.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: 10/19/2026 12:24:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover



I have changed all the 4'=20
fluorescents in our garage to the eLcheapo (tm) LED linkable sticks. After =
5+=20
years=20
I've had one fail out of 12. I bought a few extras when they went on sale. =
Also (if it matters) no problems with them working in cold weather. (OK, co=
ld in North Carolina may not be cold elsewhere but the fluorescents I had w=
ould often not work when it was cold.)=20


EjR=20


On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 1:17=E2=80=AFPM john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote=
:

Hi all
=20
My 30 year old 8'=20
t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)
the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
=20
Want to change to led... lots of options  -=20
8' led tubes are expensive too ...=20
=20
I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin=20
bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat sink)
=20
option 1=20
if I use these=20
I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure out the
shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8'=20
to 4' fixture conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones
=20
option 2
8'=20
type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as=20
8' fluorescent) and use a ballast
not great reviews when shipped...
=20
option 3
=20
replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights and =
hope they work
=20
comments on options ????
=20
questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't=20
I using more electricity using the ballast=20
and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
=20
=20
please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
=20
=20
=20
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive

talk/ejrussell61@gmail.com
--------------090901090403040408080903
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 11.00.10570.1001"></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">after considering all the options and work inv=
olved and cost... I'm just gonna scrap what I got and I've order a 10 pacl<=
/FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">of the stick light linking ones and install th=
ose... 6 will do what I need so I'll have 4 spares and will probably get mo=
re light</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">than the flor tubes (especially since 4 bulbs =
are burned out now) :-)&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">thanks for all the input</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">john</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0=
=2E5em; BORDER-LEFT: #c7e5ff 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.5em; PADDING-=
RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
----- Original Message -----</B></DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
From:</B> Eric Russell &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:ejrussell61@gmail.com">ejrusse=
ll61@gmail.com</A>&gt;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
To:</B> john niolon &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">jniolon@att.net<=
/A>&gt;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
Cc:</B> shop-talk &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk=
@autox.team.net</A>&gt;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
Sent:</B> 10/19/2026 12:24:08 PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
Subject:</B> Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover</DIV>
<HR style=3D"BORDER-TOP: medium none; HEIGHT: 1px; BORDER-RIGHT: medium non=
e; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; COLOR: #ccc; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; BACKG=
ROUND-COLOR: #ccc">

<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; FONT-WEIGHT: normal=
; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal">
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: large">I have changed all th=
e 4' fluorescents&nbsp;in our garage to the eLcheapo (tm) LED linkable stic=
ks. After 5+ years I've had one fail out of 12. I bought a few extras when =
they went on sale. Also (if it matters) no problems with them working in co=
ld weather. (OK, cold in North Carolina may not be cold elsewhere but the f=
luorescents I had would often not work when it was cold.)&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: large"><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: large">EjR&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>=
<BR>
<DIV class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container">
<DIV class=3Dgmail_attr dir=3Dltr>On Mon, Oct 19, 2026 at 1:17=E2=80=AFPM j=
ohn niolon &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">jniolon@att.net</A>&gt; w=
rote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rg=
b(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">Hi all</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin)&nbsp;garag=
e fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (=
16-20 bucks a tube)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">Want to change to led... lots of options&nbsp;=
 - 8' led tubes are expensive too ... </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that =
work with a ballast...(heat sink)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">option 1 </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">if I use these I'd have to change all the tomb=
stones to bi-pin and figure out the</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">shunted vs non shunted type...&nbsp; AND find =
the 8' to 4' fixture conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones</FONT></=
DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">option 2</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same=
 price as 8' fluorescent) and use a ballast</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">not great reviews when shipped...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">option 3</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">replace all the crap with the internet special=
s&nbsp; linkable stick lights and hope they work</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">comments on options ????</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">questions... when using the ballast type plug =
and plays... aren't I using more electricity using the ballast </FONT></DIV=
>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">and heating it up... is there any savings here=
 ???</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">please educate the old dummy on best (least ex=
pensive) options</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>_____________________=
__________________________<BR><BR><A href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.ne=
t" target=3D_blank>Shop-talk@autox.team.net</A><BR>Donate: <A href=3D"http:=
//www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3Dnoreferrer target=3D_blank>http://www.tea=
m.net/donate.html</A><BR>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.96<BR>Archive:=
 <A href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3Dnoreferrer targe=
t=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</A> <A href=3D"http://au=
tox.team.net/archive" rel=3Dnoreferrer target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.ne=
t/archive</A><BR><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage: <A href=3D"http://autox.team.net/m=
ailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61@gmail.com" rel=3Dnoreferrer target=3D_=
blank>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell61@gmail.com=
</A><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
--------------090901090403040408080903--


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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============1933259588573642662==--


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 20 05:54:28 2026
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 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2026 07:45:56 -0400
 10/20/2026 07:46:07 AM,
 Serialize complete at 10/20/2026 07:46:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--===============3119526672888252105==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--=_alternative 0040A18885258E96_=

AW, The moment I thought would never come is here.

John, I have a few boxes (maybe 30 in total bulbs) of the 8' single pin 
lights.

Come pick them up in NJ and they are yours for free.

I doubt it would pay to ship them as they would require such protection to 
ship.

Where are you located?

Moose

--=_alternative 0040A18885258E96_=

<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">AW, The moment I
thought would never come is here.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">John, I have a
few boxes (maybe 30 in total bulbs) of the 8' single pin lights.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Come pick them
up in NJ and they are yours for free.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">I doubt it would
pay to ship them as they would require such protection to ship.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Where are you
located?</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Moose</span>

--=_alternative 0040A18885258E96_=--

--===============3119526672888252105==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============3119526672888252105==--

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: eric@megageek.com,
	"shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2026 07:25:29 -0500
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1708045256383053307==

--------------050402040101070301040500
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thanks Moose, amazing offer... but,=20
I'm in Alabama and the trip would be high $$$$$
=20
I went with the internet led stick lights...should be here by Friday... wil=
l report on success
=20
thanks
john
=20
----- Original Message -----
From: <eric@megageek.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Sent: 10/20/2026 6:45:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover



AW, The moment I thought would never come is here.=20

John, I have a few boxes (maybe 30 in total bulbs) of the 8'=20
single pin lights.=20

Come pick them up in NJ and they are yours for free.=20

I doubt it would pay to ship them as they would require such protection to =
ship.=20

Where are you located?=20

Moose=20
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 11.00.10570.1001"></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">thanks Moose, amazing offer... but, I'm in Ala=
bama and the trip would be high $$$$$</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">I went with the internet led stick lights...sh=
ould be here by Friday... will report on success</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Segoe UI">john</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0=
=2E5em; BORDER-LEFT: #c7e5ff 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.5em; PADDING-=
RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
----- Original Message -----</B></DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
From:</B> &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</A>&gt=
;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
To:</B> &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.tea=
m.net</A>&gt;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
Cc:</B> john niolon &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">jniolon@att.net<=
/A>&gt;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
Sent:</B> 10/20/2026 6:45:56 AM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; COLOR: #000000"><B>=
Subject:</B> Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover</DIV>
<HR style=3D"BORDER-TOP: medium none; HEIGHT: 1px; BORDER-RIGHT: medium non=
e; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; COLOR: #ccc; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; BACKG=
ROUND-COLOR: #ccc">

<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Segoe UI'; FONT-WEIGHT: normal=
; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal"><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-=
FAMILY: sans-serif">AW, The moment I thought would never come is here.</SPA=
N> <BR><BR><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: sans-serif">John, I=
 have a few boxes (maybe 30 in total bulbs) of the 8' single pin lights.</S=
PAN> <BR><BR><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: sans-serif">Come =
pick them up in NJ and they are yours for free.</SPAN> <BR><BR><SPAN style=
=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: sans-serif">I doubt it would pay to ship =
them as they would require such protection to ship.</SPAN> <BR><BR><SPAN st=
yle=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: sans-serif">Where are you located?</SP=
AN> <BR><BR><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: sans-serif">Moose<=
/SPAN> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2026 17:02:05 -0500
References: <1UnKbQNUVE.L2SszN5vGEY@johns-desktop>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flourescent to led changeover
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============1569210273139013883==
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8=E2=80=99 fluorescent fixtures are probably worth remapping with led tubes,=
 replacing lamp holders as required, and bypassing the ballast, as they are p=
robably better fixtures than what you would replace with. If the layout was g=
enerally okay that is what I would recommend. =20

Plug connected led shop lights are universally garbage, unless you=E2=80=99r=
e paying for real commercial fixtures. The market is entirely price driven, f=
or people unwilling to do something better, and they are built as cheaply as=
 possible, and often a little bit cheaper than that, to the detriment of the=
ir lifespan. There=E2=80=99s certainly a place for that, as a light over a w=
ork bench that gets used 10 times a year isn=E2=80=99t worth spending money o=
n, nor are rentals worth improving by the tenant.  The good thing is they=E2=
=80=99re easy to replace=E2=80=A6


> On Oct 19, 2026, at 12:26, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Hi all
> =20
> My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin) garage fixtures are slowly dying...(4 t=
otal double tube)
> the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (16-20 bucks a tube)
> =20
> Want to change to led... lots of options  - 8' led tubes are expensive too=
 ...
> =20
> I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that work with a ballast...(heat s=
ink)
> =20
> option 1
> if I use these I'd have to change all the tombstones to bi-pin and figure o=
ut the
> shunted vs non shunted type...  AND find the 8' to 4' fixture conversion k=
its (adding the middle tombstones
> =20
> option 2
> 8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same price as 8' fluorescent) an=
d use a ballast
> not great reviews when shipped...
> =20
> option 3
> =20
> replace all the crap with the internet specials  linkable stick lights and=
 hope they work
> =20
> comments on options ????
> =20
> questions... when using the ballast type plug and plays... aren't I using m=
ore electricity using the ballast
> and heating it up... is there any savings here ???
> =20
> =20
> please educate the old dummy on best (least expensive) options
> =20
> =20
> =20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmsche=
idt@gmail.com
>=20

--Apple-Mail-0D1D11F3-2B9E-4BB8-8551-D62482A5B6D2
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html class=3D"apple-mail-supports-explicit-dark-mode"><head><meta http-equi=
v=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body dir=3D=
"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">8=E2=80=99 fluorescent fixtur=
es are probably worth remapping with led tubes, replacing lamp holders as re=
quired, and bypassing the ballast, as they are probably better fixtures than=
 what you would replace with. If the layout was generally okay that is what I=
 would recommend. &nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Pl=
ug connected led shop lights are universally garbage, unless you=E2=80=99re p=
aying for real commercial fixtures. The market is entirely price driven, for=
 people unwilling to do something better, and they are built as cheaply as p=
ossible, and often a little bit cheaper than that, to the detriment of their=
 lifespan. There=E2=80=99s certainly a place for that, as a light over a wor=
k bench that gets used 10 times a year isn=E2=80=99t worth spending money on=
, nor are rentals worth improving by the tenant. &nbsp;The good thing is the=
y=E2=80=99re easy to replace=E2=80=A6</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div d=
ir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Oct 19, 2026, at 12:26, john nio=
lon &lt;jniolon@att.net&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote typ=
e=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<meta name=3D"GENERATOR" content=3D"MSHTML 11.00.10570.1001">

<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">Hi all</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">My 30 year old 8' t-12 (single pin)&nbsp;garage=
 fixtures are slowly dying...(4 total double tube)</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">the old t-12s are hard to find and expensive (1=
6-20 bucks a tube)</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">Want to change to led... lots of options&nbsp; -=
 8' led tubes are expensive too ... </font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">I was gifted a box of 20 4' bi-pin bulbs that w=
ork with a ballast...(heat sink)</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">option 1 </font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">if I use these I'd have to change all the tombs=
tones to bi-pin and figure out the</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">shunted vs non shunted type...&nbsp; AND find t=
he 8' to 4' fixture conversion kits (adding the middle tombstones</font></di=
v>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">option 2</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">8' type a led single pin tubes (about the same p=
rice as 8' fluorescent) and use a ballast</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">not great reviews when shipped...</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">option 3</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">replace all the crap with the internet specials=
&nbsp; linkable stick lights and hope they work</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">comments on options ????</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">questions... when using the ballast type plug a=
nd plays... aren't I using more electricity using the ballast </font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">and heating it up... is there any savings here ?=
??</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI">please educate the old dummy on best (least exp=
ensive) options</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Segoe UI"></font>&nbsp;</div><span>______________________=
_________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span>Shop-talk@autox.t=
eam.net</span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><s=
pan>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Archive: http://w=
ww.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive</span><br><spa=
n></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options=
/shop-talk/dmscheidt@gmail.com</span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote=
></body></html>=

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============1569210273139013883==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 29 11:30:50 2026
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 13:25:08 -0400
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side. 

I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far. 

I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator. 

Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options. 

Angle grinder won't reach around the back.

Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence. 

Any other ideas? 

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 29 12:29:21 2026
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 14:13:53 -0400
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,

Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be 
able to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an 
excavator.  There are various approaches with a farm jack and a 
chain, a car jack or a very long lever.  Search for pulling fence 
posts on google or youtube.  There are a bunch of videos that should 
give you some ideas.

-Steve

At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The 
>catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't 
>get to that side.
>
>I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which 
>means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz 
>into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>
>I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the 
>concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on 
>site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave 
>it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the 
>joy of having an excavator.
>
>Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it 
>can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also 
>mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the 
>viability of these options.
>
>Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>
>Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>
>Any other ideas?
>
>thanks,
>jim


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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 15:55:49 -0400
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
 <6AE38A5E00009837@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============1939529137216059652==
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Pulling them up will destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an =
option. But I tried that with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house where =
I do want to remove the concrete, and the posts didn't budge. The fence =
is from the 60s when concrete was cheap :-)

jim

ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled up =
engine blocks and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, so you =
might not be far off with Volkswagens!

> On Oct 29, 2026, at 2:13 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> =
wrote:
>=20
> Jim,
>=20
> Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be =
able to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an excavator.  =
There are various approaches with a farm jack and a chain, a car jack or =
a very long lever.  Search for pulling fence posts on google or youtube. =
 There are a bunch of videos that should give you some ideas.
>=20
> -Steve
>=20
> At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>> I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The =
catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get =
to that side.
>>=20
>> I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which =
means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into =
the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>>=20
>> I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the =
concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site =
but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, =
shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of =
having an excavator.
>>=20
>> Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it =
can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted =
in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of =
these options.
>>=20
>> Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>>=20
>> Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>>=20
>> Any other ideas?
>>=20
>> thanks,
>> jim
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com <http://www.avast.com/>

--Apple-Mail=_16F3A63F-D909-4163-841F-DBEDB7024B89
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=us-ascii

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii"></head><body style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;">Pulling them =
up will destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an option. But I =
tried that with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house where I do want to =
remove the concrete, and the posts didn't budge. The fence is from the =
60s when concrete was cheap =
:-)<div><br></div><div>jim</div><div><br></div><div>ps - when the =
neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled up engine blocks =
and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, so you might not be =
far off with Volkswagens!<br><div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On =
Oct 29, 2026, at 2:13 PM, Steven Trovato &lt;strovato@optonline.net&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div><meta =
charset=3D"UTF-8"><span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none; float: none; display: inline !important;">Jim,</span><br =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;"><br =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;"><span =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; float: none; =
display: inline !important;">Unless the concrete blob is the size of a =
Volkswagen, you should be able to pull the whole thing out of the ground =
without an excavator. &nbsp;There are various approaches with a farm =
jack and a chain, a car jack or a very long lever. &nbsp;Search for =
pulling fence posts on google or youtube. &nbsp;There are a bunch of =
videos that should give you some ideas.</span><br style=3D"caret-color: =
rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: =
normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: =
normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; =
white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;"><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;"><span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none; float: none; display: inline =
!important;">-Steve</span><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;"><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;"><span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none; float: none; display: inline !important;">At =
01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:</span><br style=3D"caret-color: =
rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: =
normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: =
normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; =
white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;"><blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;">I need to cut down about 20 of these a few =
inches below grade. The catch is they are right next to my neighbor's =
PVC fence, so I can't get to that side.<br><br>I can use my sawzall but =
I want the cut parallel to the grade which means getting the entire =
sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor. Do-able and at =
the top of the list so far.<br><br>I was going to rent an excavator =
(still might) to also remove the concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch =
of fill delivered (none on site but there may be some when they dig up =
the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle =
factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator.<br><br>Portable bandsaw =
seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be mounted =
vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop saw =
table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these =
options.<br><br>Angle grinder won't reach around the back.<br><br>Plasma =
cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.<br><br>Any other =
ideas?<br><br>thanks,<br>jim<br></blockquote><br style=3D"caret-color: =
rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: =
normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: =
normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; =
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class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span></span><br =
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:32:28 -0400
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
 <6AE38A5E00009837@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 <6C84D036-1FC8-460D-9C27-2AA5A51B7B07@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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I don=E2=80=99t know if this is possible, but I have used an engine lift =
to remove fence posts set in concrete before.  The only challenge is =
getting the chain on the post.  I put a pair of heavy duty eye bolts in =
each side and attached the chain to them.  (FWIW, I have also pulled out =
tree stumps the same way.)

Jim

> On Oct 29, 2026, at 3:55=E2=80=AFPM, Jim Franklin =
<jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
>=20
> Pulling them up will destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an =
option. But I tried that with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house where =
I do want to remove the concrete, and the posts didn't budge. The fence =
is from the 60s when concrete was cheap :-)
>=20
> jim
>=20
> ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled up =
engine blocks and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, so you =
might not be far off with Volkswagens!
>=20
>> On Oct 29, 2026, at 2:13 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net =
>>=20
>> Jim,
>>=20
>> Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be =
able to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an excavator.  =
There are various approaches with a farm jack and a chain, a car jack or =
a very long lever.  Search for pulling fence posts on google or youtube. =
 There are a bunch of videos that should give you some ideas.
>>=20
>> -Steve
>>=20
>> At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>>> I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The =
catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get =
to that side.
>>>=20
>>> I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which =
means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into =
the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>>>=20
>>> I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the =
concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site =
but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, =
shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of =
having an excavator.
>>>=20
>>> Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it =
can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted =
in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of =
these options.
>>>=20
>>> Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>>>=20
>>> Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>>>=20
>>> Any other ideas?
>>>=20
>>> thanks,
>>> jim
>>=20
>>=20
>> --=20
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> _______________________________________________
>=20
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--Apple-Mail=_1848482C-7961-4EA0-8524-6300500104DF
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html aria-label=3D"message body"><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" =
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body =
style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; =
line-break: after-white-space;">I don=E2=80=99t know if this is =
possible, but I have used an engine lift to remove fence posts set in =
concrete before. &nbsp;The only challenge is getting the chain on the =
post. &nbsp;I put a pair of heavy duty eye bolts in each side and =
attached the chain to them. &nbsp;(FWIW, I have also pulled out tree =
stumps the same way.)<div><br></div><div>Jim<br =
id=3D"lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage"><div><br><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><div>On Oct 29, 2026, at 3:55=E2=80=AFPM, Jim Franklin =
&lt;jamesf@groupwbench.org&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div><meta charset=3D"UTF-8"><span =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: ArialUnicodeMS; =
font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none; float: none; display: inline !important;">Pulling them up will =
destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an option. But I tried that =
with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house where I do want to remove the =
concrete, and the posts didn't budge. The fence is from the 60s when =
concrete was cheap :-)</span><div style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
font-family: ArialUnicodeMS; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; =
white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-line: none; =
text-decoration-thickness: auto; text-decoration-style: =
solid;"><br></div><div style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
ArialUnicodeMS; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration-line: none; text-decoration-thickness: auto; =
text-decoration-style: solid;">jim</div><div style=3D"caret-color: =
rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: ArialUnicodeMS; font-size: 14px; font-style: =
normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: =
normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: =
none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-line: none; =
text-decoration-thickness: auto; text-decoration-style: =
solid;"><br></div><div style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
ArialUnicodeMS; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration-line: none; text-decoration-thickness: auto; =
text-decoration-style: solid;">ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, =
the excavator guy pulled up engine blocks and transmissions that had =
been buried decades ago, so you might not be far off with =
Volkswagens!<br><div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On Oct 29, 2026, =
at 2:13 PM, Steven Trovato &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:strovato@optonline.net">strovato@optonline.net</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div><span =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; float: none; =
display: inline !important;">Jim,</span><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, =
0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;"><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;"><span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none; float: none; display: inline !important;">Unless =
the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be able to =
pull the whole thing out of the ground without an excavator. &nbsp;There =
are various approaches with a farm jack and a chain, a car jack or a =
very long lever. &nbsp;Search for pulling fence posts on google or =
youtube. &nbsp;There are a bunch of videos that should give you some =
ideas.</span><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none;"><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; =
font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none;"><span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; =
font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none; float: none; display: inline !important;">-Steve</span><br =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;"><br =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;"><span =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; float: none; =
display: inline !important;">At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin =
wrote:</span><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none;"><blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; =
font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none;">I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. =
The catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't =
get to that side.<br><br>I can use my sawzall but I want the cut =
parallel to the grade which means getting the entire sawzall below grade =
and sucking schmutz into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list =
so far.<br><br>I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also =
remove the concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered =
(none on site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to =
repave it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds =
the joy of having an excavator.<br><br>Portable bandsaw seems like a =
useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be mounted vertically to use =
as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop saw table. Internet =
isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options.<br><br>Angle =
grinder won't reach around the back.<br><br>Plasma cutter is =
contraindicated with neighbor's fence.<br><br>Any other =
ideas?<br><br>thanks,<br>jim<br></blockquote><br style=3D"caret-color: =
rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: =
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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:36:42 -0400
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
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 <6C84D036-1FC8-460D-9C27-2AA5A51B7B07@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, in that case, the excavator is probably not an option either.

At 03:55 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>Pulling them up will destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an 
>option. But I tried that with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house 
>where I do want to remove the concrete, and the posts didn't budge. 
>The fence is from the 60s when concrete was cheap :-)
>
>jim
>
>ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled 
>up engine blocks and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, 
>so you might not be far off with Volkswagens!


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Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:43:11 -0400
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
 <6AE38A5E00009837@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 <6C84D036-1FC8-460D-9C27-2AA5A51B7B07@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6897777075985889986==
	boundary="=====================_797885312==.ALT"

--=====================_797885312==.ALT

Also, it sounds like you're not exactly best friends with the 
neighbor.  How confident are you that you know exactly where the 
property line is?  I'm not recommending that you start a neighbor 
war, but knowing for sure could be useful at some point.

At 03:55 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>Pulling them up will destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an 
>option. But I tried that with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house 
>where I do want to remove the concrete, and the posts didn't budge. 
>The fence is from the 60s when concrete was cheap :-)
>
>jim
>
>ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled 
>up engine blocks and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, 
>so you might not be far off with Volkswagens!
>
>>On Oct 29, 2026, at 2:13 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>>Jim,
>>
>>Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be 
>>able to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an 
>>excavator.  There are various approaches with a farm jack and a 
>>chain, a car jack or a very long lever.  Search for pulling fence 
>>posts on google or youtube.  There are a bunch of videos that 
>>should give you some ideas.
>>
>>-Steve
>>
>>At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:
>>>I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The 
>>>catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I 
>>>can't get to that side.
>>>
>>>I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade 
>>>which means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking 
>>>schmutz into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>>>
>>>I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the 
>>>concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on 
>>>site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave 
>>>it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the 
>>>joy of having an excavator.
>>>
>>>Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if 
>>>it can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also 
>>>mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the 
>>>viability of these options.
>>>
>>>Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>>>
>>>Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>>>
>>>Any other ideas?
>>>
>>>thanks,
>>>jim
>>
>>
>>--
>>This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>><http://www.avast.com/>www.avast.com


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
--=====================_797885312==.ALT

<html>
<body>
Also, it sounds like you're not exactly best friends with the
neighbor.&nbsp; How confident are you that you know exactly where the
property line is?&nbsp; I'm not recommending that you start a neighbor
war, but knowing for sure could be useful at some point.  <br><br>
At 03:55 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Pulling them up will destroy the
neighbor's fence so that's not an option. But I tried that with an 8' 2x4
out in front of the house where I do want to remove the concrete, and the
posts didn't budge. The fence is from the 60s when concrete was cheap
:-)<br><br>
jim<br><br>
ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled up
engine blocks and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, so you
might not be far off with Volkswagens!<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">On Oct 29, 2026, at 2:13 PM,
Steven Trovato &lt;strovato@optonline.net&gt; wrote:<br><br>
Jim,<br><br>
Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be able
to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an excavator.&nbsp;
There are various approaches with a farm jack and a chain, a car jack or
a very long lever.&nbsp; Search for pulling fence posts on google or
youtube.&nbsp; There are a bunch of videos that should give you some
ideas.<br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">I need to cut down about 20 of
these a few inches below grade. The catch is they are right next to my
neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side.<br><br>
I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means
getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the
motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.<br><br>
I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the
concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site
but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it,
shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of
having an excavator.<br><br>
Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can
be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a
chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these
options.<br><br>
Angle grinder won't reach around the back.<br><br>
Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.<br><br>
Any other ideas?<br><br>
thanks,<br>
jim</blockquote><br><br>
-- <br>
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<a href="http://www.avast.com/">www.avast.com</a></blockquote>
</blockquote><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br /><table style="border-top: 1px solid #D3D4DE;"><tr><td style="width: 55px; padding-top: 13px;"><a href="https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient" target="_blank"><img src="https://s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif" alt="" width="46" height="29" style="width: 46px; height: 29px;"/></a></td><td style="width: 470px; padding-top: 12px; color: #41424e; font-size: 13px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Virus-free.<a href="https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient" target="_blank" style="color: #4453ea;">www.avast.com</a></td></tr></table><a href="#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width="1" height="1"> </a></div></body>
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--=====================_797885312==.ALT--


--===============6897777075985889986==
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 29 16:17:38 2026
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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 22:12:52 +0000
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3102044325945018154==
 boundary="--_NmP-b57363a81a4b8784-Part_1"

----_NmP-b57363a81a4b8784-Part_1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

How about something like this?  A fence post may be too thick, but there =
are similar options for heavier pipe.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWRENCH-3-4-in-to-3-in-Exhaust-and-Tailpipe-=
Cutter-2031DD/205593288


You might also want to check with a local fence contractor.  They likely =
have additional options.


Brian


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Sent: Oct 29, 2026 12:58 PM
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?


Pulling them up will destroy the neighbor's fence so that's not an option. =
But I tried that with an 8' 2x4 out in front of the house where I do want =
to remove the concrete, and the posts didn't budge. The fence is from the =
60s when concrete was cheap :-)

jim


ps - when the neighbor put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled up =
engine blocks and transmissions that had been buried decades ago, so you =
might not be far off with Volkswagens!

On Oct 29, 2026, at 2:13 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> =
wrote:
Jim,Unless the concrete blob is the size of a Volkswagen, you should be =
able to pull the whole thing out of the ground without an excavator.  There=
 are various approaches with a farm jack and a chain, a car jack or a very =
long lever.  Search for pulling fence posts on google or youtube.  There =
are a bunch of videos that should give you some ideas.-SteveAt 01:25 PM =
10/29/2026, Jim Franklin wrote:I need to cut down about 20 of these a few =
inches below grade. The catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC =
fence, so I can't get to that side.

I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means =
getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor. =
Do-able and at the top of the list so far.

I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete =
blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there =
may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea =
for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator.

Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be=
 mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop =
saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options.

Angle grinder won't reach around the back.

Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.

Any other ideas?

thanks,
jim

-- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.www.=
avast.com (http://www.avast.com/)








----_NmP-b57363a81a4b8784-Part_1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div style=3D"color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:12p=
t"><p style=3D"line-height: 1;">How about something like this?&nbsp; A =
fence post may be too thick, but there are similar options for heavier pipe=
.</p><p style=3D"line-height: 1;"><a href=3D"https://www.homedepot.=
com/p/GEARWRENCH-3-4-in-to-3-in-Exhaust-and-Tailpipe-Cutter-2031DD/20559328=
8">https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWRENCH-3-4-in-to-3-in-Exhaust-and-Tailpi=
pe-Cutter-2031DD/205593288</a></p><p style=3D"line-height: 1;"><br></p><p =
style=3D"line-height: 1;">You might also want to check with a local fence =
contractor.&nbsp; They likely have additional options.</p><p =
style=3D"line-height: 1;"><br></p><p style=3D"line-height: 1;">Brian</p><p =
style=3D"line-height: 1;"><br></p><p style=3D"line-height: =
1;"></p><br></div><div class=3D"elnk-inline-message-container" =
style=3D"border-left:1px solid #aaa;box-sizing:border-box;padding:10px 0 =
10px 15px;margin:0"><p style=3D"line-height: 1;">-----Original =
Message-----<br>From: Jim Franklin &lt;jamesf@groupwbench.org&gt;<br>Sent: =
Oct 29, 2026 12:58 PM<br>To: Steven Trovato &lt;strovato@optonline.=
net&gt;<br>Cc: Shop-Talk &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>Subject: Re: =
[Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?</p><p style=3D"margin: 0; =
padding: 0; line-height: 1.5;"><br></p>Pulling them up will destroy the =
neighbor's fence so that's not an option. But I tried that with an 8' 2x4 =
out in front of the house where I do want to remove the concrete, and the =
posts didn't budge. The fence is from the 60s when concrete was cheap =
:-)<div><br></div><div>jim</div><div><br></div><div>ps - when the neighbor =
put in his garage, the excavator guy pulled up engine blocks and =
transmissions that had been buried decades ago, so you might not be far off=
 with Volkswagens!<br><div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On Oct 29, =
2026, at 2:13 PM, Steven Trovato &lt;strovato@optonline.net&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div><span =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; float: none; =
display: inline !important;">Jim,</span><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0,=
 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration:=
 none;"><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; =
font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: =
0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;"><span =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; float: none; =
display: inline !important;">Unless the concrete blob is the size of a =
Volkswagen, you should be able to pull the whole thing out of the ground =
without an excavator. &nbsp;There are various approaches with a farm jack =
and a chain, a car jack or a very long lever. &nbsp;Search for pulling =
fence posts on google or youtube. &nbsp;There are a bunch of videos that =
should give you some ideas.</span><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration:=
 none;"><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; =
font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: =
0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;"><span =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; float: none; =
display: inline !important;">-Steve</span><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, =
0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration:=
 none;"><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; =
font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: =
0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;"><span =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; float: none; =
display: inline !important;">At 01:25 PM 10/29/2026, Jim Franklin =
wrote:</span><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: =
0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;"><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style:=
 normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: =
normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform:=
 none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;">I need to cut down =
about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is they are right =
next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side.<br><br>I can =
use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means getting=
 the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor. Do-able=
 and at the top of the list so far.<br><br>I was going to rent an excavator=
 (still might) to also remove the concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch =
of fill delivered (none on site but there may be some when they dig up the =
driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor =
exceeds the joy of having an excavator.<br><br>Portable bandsaw seems like =
a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be mounted vertically to use =
as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't =
forthcoming on the viability of these options.<br><br>Angle grinder won't =
reach around the back.<br><br>Plasma cutter is contraindicated with =
neighbor's fence.<br><br>Any other ideas?<br><br>thanks,=
<br>jim<br></blockquote><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
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-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; float: none; =
display: inline !important;">This email has been checked for viruses by =
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----_NmP-b57363a81a4b8784-Part_1--

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--===============3102044325945018154==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 29 17:10:58 2026
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From: "DArmstrong" <darmstrong@nexicom.net>
To: "'Jim Franklin'" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>,
 "'Shop-Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 19:06:00 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A portable plasma cutter?  A handy tool to have for other jobs.

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jim Franklin
Sent: October 29, 2026 1:25 PM
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?

I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is
they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side.


I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means
getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor.
Do-able and at the top of the list so far. 

I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete
blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there may
be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a
few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator. 

Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be
mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop
saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options. 

Angle grinder won't reach around the back.

Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence. 

Any other ideas? 

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
http://autox.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong@nexicom.net


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 29 18:59:34 2026
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
 PWHCTR9bTP0S7t9XeiT/+PO7lB9cD2b5zasR0Mz9NQVzqFlSbdOPgCd6ah9G39ybavBpYcQSCd8yAiaOf6x+miI1Q+ftpKnfu5w=
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post? (Jim Franklin)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A few thoughts:

You could cut them with a sawzall with a long reasonably flexible blade 
bent to remain flat to and below the ground level.

You could cut them with a sawzall at an angle and then come back with an 
angle grinder and then make the cut parallel to the ground once the rest 
of the post isn't in the way.

It would be slower but an oscillating tool with a good carbide blade can 
get in from both sides with a cut quite close to the concrete below it.

You could get/make a good heat shield to protect the fence and then use 
a torch. This looks to be the most potentially problematic but also the 
most fun.

Regards,

Mark Miller   707-490-5834
markmiller@threeboysfarm.com

On 10/29/2026 11:00 AM, shop-talk-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 13:25:08 -0400
> From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
> To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
> Message-ID: <F50E091C-7E33-4418-A865-1D3574444181@groupwbench.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=us-ascii
>
> I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that side.
>
> I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor. Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>
> I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there may be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for a few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator.
>
> Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options.
>
> Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>
> Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> thanks,
> jim
>
>
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
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References: <mailman.16629.1793315206.28221.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Mark Meany <mmeany7@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2026 08:53:02 -0400
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop-talk Digest, Vol 20, Issue 126
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7559117458516960452==

--000000000000774eb7065f0e470f

Since this hasn't been mentioned yet, I thought I'd point out the peril in
cutting galvanized pipe. I imagine the fumes created by a plasma cutter
would be pretty dangerous and wonder whether the dust from a Sawzall might
have issues too. It may be that the best option is an engine hoist (2 floor
jacks?) connected to a rod sticking out on either side of holes poked into
the post. Probably clearing the dirt out from on top of the concrete base
would help.

>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> . Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Steven Trovato)
>    2. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Steven Trovato)
>    3. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Brian Kemp)
>    4. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (DArmstrong)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
> To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
> Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:36:42 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
> Well, in that case, the excavator is probably not an option either.
>
> At 03:55
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jim
> Franklin
> Sent: October 29, 2026 1:25 PM
> To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
>
> I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is
> they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that
> side.
>
>
> I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means
> getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor.
> Do-able and at the top of the list so far.
>
> I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete
> blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there
> may
> be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for
> a
> few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator.
>
> Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be
> mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop
> saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options.
>
> Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>
> Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.
>
>

--000000000000774eb7065f0e470f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container" dir=
=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">Since this hasn&#39;t been =
mentioned yet, I thought I&#39;d point out the peril in cutting galvanized =
pipe. I imagine the fumes created by a plasma cutter would be pretty danger=
ous and wonder whether the dust from a Sawzall might have issues too. It ma=
y be that the best option is an engine hoist (2 floor jacks?) connected to =
a rod sticking out on either side of holes poked into the post. Probably cl=
earing the dirt out from on top of the concrete base would help.</div><bloc=
kquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #cc=
c solid;padding-left:1ex">
<br>
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br>. Re: Cutting =
a chain link fence post? (Steven Trovato)<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A02. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Steven Trovato)<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A03. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Brian Kemp)<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A04. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (DArmstrong)<br>
<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From:=C2=A0Steven Tr=
ovato &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:strovato@optonline.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">strovato@optonline.net</a>&gt;<br>To:=C2=A0Jim Franklin &lt=
;<a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefer=
rer">jamesf@groupwbench.org</a>&gt;<br>Cc:=C2=A0Shop-Talk &lt;<a href=3D"ma=
ilto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-ta=
lk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br>Bcc:=C2=A0<br>Date:=C2=A0Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:3=
6:42 -0400<br>Subject:=C2=A0Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post=
?<br>Well, in that case, the excavator is probably not an option either.<br=
>
<br>
At 03:55 =C2=A0<br><div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><blockquote type=3D"cite"=
><br></blockquote></blockquote><div id=3D"m_-2635281782547015744DAB4FAD8-2D=
D7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><table style=3D"border-top:1px solid #d3d4de"><t=
body></tbody></table></div></div><div style=3D"border-left:1px solid #aaa;b=
ox-sizing:border-box;padding:10px 0 10px 15px;margin:0"><div><div><blockquo=
te type=3D"cite"><div><br style=3D"font-family:Helvetica;font-size:14px;fon=
t-style:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:norm=
al;text-align:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;=
word-spacing:0px;text-decoration:none"></div></blockquote></div></div></div=
><br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net" tar=
get=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net</a>&gt; =
On Behalf Of Jim Franklin<br>
Sent: October 29, 2026 1:25 PM<br>
To: Shop-Talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_bl=
ank" rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?<br>
<br>
I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch is=
<br>
they are right next to my neighbor&#39;s PVC fence, so I can&#39;t get to t=
hat side.<br>
<br>
<br>
I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which means<b=
r>
getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the motor.<=
br>
Do-able and at the top of the list so far. <br>
<br>
I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the concrete<=
br>
blob but then I&#39;d need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but ther=
e may<br>
be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea for =
a<br>
few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator. <br>
<br>
Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can be=
<br>
mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a chop<b=
r>
saw table. Internet isn&#39;t forthcoming on the viability of these options=
. <br>
<br>
Angle grinder won&#39;t reach around the back.<br>
<br>
Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor&#39;s fence. <br><br>
</blockquote></div></div>

--000000000000774eb7065f0e470f--

--===============7559117458516960452==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============7559117458516960452==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 30 07:55:13 2026
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2026 09:42:06 -0400
To: Mark Meany <mmeany7@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.16629.1793315206.28221.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <CAMHjtW-5FH-03NtWbK-fca+FS-AvM45F+Sy4JV38e=jg5uRyNw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop-talk Digest, Vol 20, Issue 126
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============1572415347207317344==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_79ABCDC7-FBE1-4CA7-8228-9BC6F647DEAB"


--Apple-Mail=_79ABCDC7-FBE1-4CA7-8228-9BC6F647DEAB
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=us-ascii

The plasma cutter also suffers from being too short, but yea the fume =
thing is a big impediment. The sawzall didn't make much smoke, so I'm =
not worried, and it turned out to live up to its name. About 5 minutes =
per post, way easier than I expected, though I ran out of extension cord =
and need another 50 footer. When I sold my last house in 2020 and swore =
I'd never own a house again I gave away a large box of really good ones. =
:-(

Addressing another comment - I'm on good terms with my neighbor, another =
reason I don't want to damage his fence. And he only put up the fence to =
stop the 2-owners-ago creepy guy from staring at his wife & kids in the =
pool.=20

Using a hoist to pull up the plug of concrete would damage the fence; =
I'd have needed to dig a trench on the side and slide the whole mess =
out.=20

That chain tailpipe cutter...interesting tool, might have worked. I did =
think about a soil stack cutter as well. But 1/8" thick pipe might blow =
out my forearms before I got one done.=20

Thanks for all the ideas.=20

jim

> On Oct 30, 2026, at 8:53 AM, Mark Meany <mmeany7@gmail.com> wrote:
>=20
>=20
> Since this hasn't been mentioned yet, I thought I'd point out the =
peril in cutting galvanized pipe. I imagine the fumes created by a =
plasma cutter would be pretty dangerous and wonder whether the dust from =
a Sawzall might have issues too. It may be that the best option is an =
engine hoist (2 floor jacks?) connected to a rod sticking out on either =
side of holes poked into the post. Probably clearing the dirt out from =
on top of the concrete base would help.
>>=20
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> . Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Steven Trovato)
>>    2. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Steven Trovato)
>>    3. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Brian Kemp)
>>    4. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (DArmstrong)
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net =
>> To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org =
>> Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net =
>> Bcc:=20
>> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:36:42 -0400
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
>> Well, in that case, the excavator is probably not an option either.
>>=20
>> At 03:55 =20
>>>>=20
>>=20
>>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net =
>> Sent: October 29, 2026 1:25 PM
>> To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net =
>> Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?
>>=20
>> I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The =
catch is
>> they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to =
that side.
>>=20
>>=20
>> I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which =
means
>> getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the =
motor.
>> Do-able and at the top of the list so far.=20
>>=20
>> I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the =
concrete
>> blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but =
there may
>> be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this =
idea for a
>> few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator.=20
>>=20
>> Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it =
can be
>> mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a =
chop
>> saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these =
options.=20
>>=20
>> Angle grinder won't reach around the back.
>>=20
>> Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence.=20
>>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
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>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii"></head><body style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;">The plasma =
cutter also suffers from being too short, but yea the fume thing is a =
big impediment. The sawzall didn't make much smoke, so I'm not worried, =
and it turned out to live up to its name. About 5 minutes per post, way =
easier than I expected, though I ran out of extension cord and need =
another 50 footer. When I sold my last house in 2020 and swore I'd never =
own a house again I gave away a large box of really good ones. =
:-(<div><br></div><div>Addressing another comment - I'm on good terms =
with my neighbor, another reason I don't want to damage his fence. And =
he only put up the fence to stop the 2-owners-ago creepy guy from =
staring at his wife &amp; kids in the =
pool.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Using a hoist to pull up the plug =
of concrete would damage the fence; I'd have needed to dig a trench on =
the side and slide the whole mess =
out.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>That chain tailpipe =
cutter...interesting tool, might have worked. I did think about a soil =
stack cutter as well. But 1/8" thick pipe might blow out my forearms =
before I got one done.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks for all the =
ideas.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>jim<br><div><br><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><div>On Oct 30, 2026, at 8:53 AM, Mark Meany =
&lt;mmeany7@gmail.com&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div><div dir=3D"auto"><br><div =
class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"gmail_attr">Since this hasn't been mentioned yet, I thought I'd =
point out the peril in cutting galvanized pipe. I imagine the fumes =
created by a plasma cutter would be pretty dangerous and wonder whether =
the dust from a Sawzall might have issues too. It may be that the best =
option is an engine hoist (2 floor jacks?) connected to a rod sticking =
out on either side of holes poked into the post. Probably clearing the =
dirt out from on top of the concrete base would help.</div><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc =
solid;padding-left:1ex">
<br>
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br>. Re: =
Cutting a chain link fence post? (Steven Trovato)<br>
&nbsp; &nbsp;2. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Steven =
Trovato)<br>
&nbsp; &nbsp;3. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (Brian Kemp)<br>
&nbsp; &nbsp;4. Re: Cutting a chain link fence post? (DArmstrong)<br>
<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From:&nbsp;Steven =
Trovato &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:strovato@optonline.net" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer">strovato@optonline.net</a>&gt;<br>To:&nbsp;Jim =
Franklin &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer">jamesf@groupwbench.org</a>&gt;<br>Cc:&nbsp;Shop-Talk =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br>Bcc:&nbsp;<br>Date:=
&nbsp;Thu, 29 Oct 2026 16:36:42 -0400<br>Subject:&nbsp;Re: [Shop-talk] =
Cutting a chain link fence post?<br>Well, in that case, the excavator is =
probably not an option either.<br>
<br>
At 03:55 &nbsp;<br><div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><br></blockquote></blockquote><div =
id=3D"m_-2635281782547015744DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><table =
style=3D"border-top:1px solid =
#d3d4de"><tbody></tbody></table></div></div><div style=3D"border-left:1px =
solid #aaa;box-sizing:border-box;padding:10px 0 10px =
15px;margin:0"><div><div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><br =
style=3D"font-family:Helvetica;font-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-varia=
nt-caps:normal;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:normal;text-align:start;text=
-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px;text-d=
ecoration:none"></div></blockquote></div></div></div><br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net</a>&gt; On Behalf Of =
Jim Franklin<br>
Sent: October 29, 2026 1:25 PM<br>
To: Shop-Talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting a chain link fence post?<br>
<br>
I need to cut down about 20 of these a few inches below grade. The catch =
is<br>
they are right next to my neighbor's PVC fence, so I can't get to that =
side.<br>
<br>
<br>
I can use my sawzall but I want the cut parallel to the grade which =
means<br>
getting the entire sawzall below grade and sucking schmutz into the =
motor.<br>
Do-able and at the top of the list so far. <br>
<br>
I was going to rent an excavator (still might) to also remove the =
concrete<br>
blob but then I'd need a bunch of fill delivered (none on site but there =
may<br>
be some when they dig up the driveway to repave it, shelving this idea =
for a<br>
few weeks), hassle factor exceeds the joy of having an excavator. <br>
<br>
Portable bandsaw seems like a useful lifetime tool, especially if it can =
be<br>
mounted vertically to use as a regular bandsaw and also mounted in a =
chop<br>
saw table. Internet isn't forthcoming on the viability of these options. =
<br>
<br>
Angle grinder won't reach around the back.<br>
<br>
Plasma cutter is contraindicated with neighbor's fence. <br><br>
</blockquote></div></div>
=
_______________________________________________<br><br>Shop-talk@autox.tea=
m.net<br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Suggested annual =
donation &nbsp;$12.96<br>Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
http://autox.team.net/archive<br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org<br>=
<br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>=

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