From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 1 05:21:04 2010 From: michael king To: Tiger Talk List Tiger Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 21:21:36 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] trim clips + fasteners I found an amazing company for trim clips, fasteners and screws etc.. http://www.bresco.com/ Thought i would share it. -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 1 14:36:31 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Jeffrey Nichols Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 13:17:47 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Looking for info on B382001884 Jeff, I presume you checked Norman's site to assure the TAC condition. < *http://www.rootes1.com/ * > (Check the "A" List link for various years) However "TBON" gives a lot more information, but no TAC numbers. For instance, at the time of publication (May 1993) the following information is given in "The Book of Norman": VIN: B382001884* SUFFIX: LRX Owner: John Robertson, Herndon, VA Color: 39 Body: JAL 661887 ROTA No.: 1924 Jensen Date: 66/4/04 (April 4, 1966) Gear Box No: HEHE017114 Rear Axle No: C66/5863 This is one of the cars that a lot of information is available, and not much "withheld". The "*" indicates the records of the car came from the original "Jensen Ledgers" One can only thank, again, the perseverance of Norman Miller, the "International Registry of Sunbeam Tigers" in Redwood City, CA.George Fallehy, and Mike Taylor's contributions on the "AF" Tigers. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Jeffrey Nichols wrote: > Does anyone on this list own B382001884? I was wondering if it ever went > through a TAC inspection. Yes, I checked the TAC list and its not on it. > Nothing sinister, just curious. > > > Jeff _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 1 21:42:28 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Tiger's Den Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 20:21:20 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Pep Boys and the Mustang Tigers, I answered some questions about Carnuba wax a few day's ago, and related how I worked for "The Pep Boys" in their Burbank/Glendale store. Well, it also unfroze some of my memory cells about that job. There was an alley behind the parking lot, and residential homes south of the boulevard. The nearest lot was undeveloped, or razzed. Someone had parked his Mustang there, and it was quite interesting. I spoke to the neighbor, and he told me how he acquired it. It was some 10 years old at that time. So what's unusual about this story? Well, at this time Ford was about 15 years from the release of their Mustang, and the Shelby's, Tigers, etc. were as far from showing their prototypes. By now you've probably figured out the manufacturer of this vehicle was North American Aviation. The P-51B's "Mustang" was built in Inglewood (CA) starting May, 1943. This was a program for the Army Air Corp. USAF was sometime latter. http://www.acepilots.com/planes/p51_mustang.html He let me sit in the cockpit and look over that "loooong" nose. I ended up, in my first professional job working for the Rocketdyne Division of NAA. A far cry from airplanes, but at the cutting edge of space. Sorry for over-running you with reminiscences, but the thrill came out of that dusty vault, along with the Carnuba! And, who knows if I'll ever visit that particular cells again. Steve -- Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 1 22:09:10 2010 From: David Sosna To: n197tr4@cs.com Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 20:51:56 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pep Boys and the Mustang Cool, Steve!! Best Regards David Sosna Steve Laifman wrote: > Tigers, > > Someone > had parked his Mustang there, and it was quite interesting. I spoke to > the neighbor, and he told me how he acquired it. It was some 10 years > old at that time. > > So what's unusual about this story? Well, at this time Ford was about > 15 years from the release of their Mustang, and the Shelby's, Tigers, > etc. were as far from showing their prototypes. > > By now you've probably figured out the manufacturer of this vehicle was > North American Aviation. The P-51B's "Mustang" was built in Inglewood > (CA) starting May, 1943. This was a program for the Army Air Corp. USAF > was sometime latter. > > http://www.acepilots.com/planes/p51_mustang.html > > He let me sit in the cockpit and look over that "loooong" nose. > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5078 (20100501) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 08:27:59 2010 From: "Will Seay" To: "Steve Laifman" , "Tiger's Den" Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 10:03:02 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pep Boys and the Mustang Those brain cells do awaken. I remember seeing a yellow P51 at an air show many years ago. It was aptly-flown by Bob Hoover. Gorgeous craft. I think that Bob did an inside loop, completely dead stick, in that thing. Will Seay ____________________ wseay@embarqmail.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Laifman" To: "Tiger's Den" Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 11:21 PM Subject: [Tigers] Pep Boys and the Mustang > Tigers, > > I answered some questions about Carnuba wax a few day's ago, and related > how I worked for "The Pep Boys" in their Burbank/Glendale store. Well, > it also unfroze some of my memory cells about that job. > > There was an alley behind the parking lot, and residential homes south > of the boulevard. The nearest lot was undeveloped, or razzed. Someone > had parked his Mustang there, and it was quite interesting. I spoke to > the neighbor, and he told me how he acquired it. It was some 10 years > old at that time. > > So what's unusual about this story? Well, at this time Ford was about > 15 years from the release of their Mustang, and the Shelby's, Tigers, > etc. were as far from showing their prototypes. > > By now you've probably figured out the manufacturer of this vehicle was > North American Aviation. The P-51B's "Mustang" was built in Inglewood > (CA) starting May, 1943. This was a program for the Army Air Corp. USAF > was sometime latter. > > http://www.acepilots.com/planes/p51_mustang.html > > He let me sit in the cockpit and look over that "loooong" nose. > > I ended up, in my first professional job working for the Rocketdyne > Division of NAA. A far cry from airplanes, but at the cutting edge of > space. > > Sorry for over-running you with reminiscences, but the thrill came out > of that dusty vault, along with the Carnuba! And, who knows if I'll ever > visit that particular cells again. > > Steve > -- > > Steve Laifman > > Editor > > http://TigersUnited.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wseay@embarqmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 08:28:09 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: "'Tiger's Den'" Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 09:03:43 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Hub Pulling.................too easy. I used info from Dan Walter's perfect hub puller and other advice from this list to make mine. http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/006-1.jpg Just plate steel with four holes and the fitting for the slide-hammer welded to the center. That with some bolt, washers and coupling nuts. The hubs came off easily requiring 40 ft/lbs on one side and 50 ft/lbs on the other. I then used the MONGO slide-hammer to pop the axles out. http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/009.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/010.jpg I checked for end play before I pulled the axles and there was 0 on both sides. There was a .030 shim on one side and a .010 on the other. So, I needed shims. There are no shims available in Leavenworth, KS so I made some. http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/012.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/014.jpg I bought some .030 steel and .010 tin at the locale hardware store. Question for you guys who know, how many shims and what thickness do you have on your car? I hope I made enough. I also had to make the paper gaskets which was quite easy after cutting the metal ones. Have some parts painting to do today and then Monday I will have the old bearing removed and the new one pressed on. Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 10:23:31 2010 From: MAURO D'ANGELO To: Steve Laifman , Jeffrey Nichols Date: Sun, 02 May 2010 12:06:25 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Looking for info on B382001884 Herndon, VA is up the street from me! Looks like John Robertson may still live there... Mauro On 5/1/10 4:17 PM, "Steve Laifman" wrote: > Jeff, > > I presume you checked Norman's site to assure the TAC condition. > > < *http://www.rootes1.com/ * > (Check the > "A" List link for various years) > > However "TBON" gives a lot more information, but no TAC numbers. > > For instance, at the time of publication (May 1993) the following > information is given in "The Book of Norman": > > VIN: B382001884* > SUFFIX: LRX > Owner: John Robertson, Herndon, VA > Color: 39 > Body: JAL 661887 > ROTA No.: 1924 > Jensen Date: 66/4/04 (April 4, 1966) > Gear Box No: HEHE017114 > Rear Axle No: C66/5863 > > This is one of the cars that a lot of information is available, and not > much "withheld". The "*" indicates the records of the car came from the > original "Jensen Ledgers" > > One can only thank, again, the perseverance of Norman Miller, the > "International Registry of Sunbeam Tigers" in Redwood City, CA.George > Fallehy, and Mike Taylor's contributions on the "AF" Tigers. > > Steve > > Steve Laifman > > Editor > > http://TigersUnited.com > > > > Jeffrey Nichols wrote: >> Does anyone on this list own B382001884? I was wondering if it ever went >> through a TAC inspection. Yes, I checked the TAC list and its not on it. >> Nothing sinister, just curious. >> >> >> Jeff > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 2 21:06:34 2010 From: Theo Smit To: wsamouce Date: Sun, 02 May 2010 21:07:19 -0600 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hub Pulling.................too easy. Hi Duke, Axle endplay is something you want to have within about 0.002" (spec is 0.006 to 0.008"), so you should make up some shims out of 0.004" shim stock in addition to the 0.010" one(s) you may already have made. The thin material cuts easily with heavy duty scissors,as long as you don't plan to use those for anything delicate afterward. Just watch you don't get cut by the edges... If I recall, I had one thicker shim on one side and a thinner one (probably about 0.010) on the other, when I took things apart for the disc brake conversion. I machined up some spacers out of 1/4" or 5/16" aluminum to make up the lost thickness of the brake drum backing plates (made sure I matched the original backing plate thickness), and then reassembled things with the original spacers on their respective sides. And yes, I didn't measure the end float... it's on the list of things to do. Theo wsamouce wrote: > I used info from Dan Walter's perfect hub puller and other advice from this > list to make mine. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 04:22:42 2010 From: "Robert J. Wanty" To: Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 06:22:56 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Cam Help While changing the timing gears and chain on my 260 I found that the cam thrust plate is toast and the thrust plate spacer is missing, how it stayed together is a mystery. Does anyone have these available or have a junk 260 that you would be willing to sell these parts? I could also mill 289 parts so if you know the thickness of the spacer please let me know. My thrust plate is 0.217" thick. Thanks Bob B382001318 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 06:39:22 2010 From: "Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)" To: "Steve Laifman" Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 08:39:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pep Boys and the Mustang Steve, That's a great story! The P-51 was and always will be my favorite airplane, I probably built five Revell models of them as a kid. Did the owner explain how he got the plane out of the vacant lot? I was fortunate enough to make it to Rickenbacker in 2007 to see the Gathering of P-51s, there were 108 Mustangs there all parked in one spot. As you can imagine, the low-level flyby with over 60 P-51s in formation was an experience beyond words! They still maintain the site: http://www.gml2007.com/ Bugz -----Original Message----- From: Steve Laifman Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 11:21 PM To: Tiger's Den Subject: [Tigers] Pep Boys and the Mustang Tigers, I answered some questions about Carnuba wax a few day's ago, and related how I worked for "The Pep Boys" in their Burbank/Glendale store. Well, it also unfroze some of my memory cells about that job. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 08:16:11 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Robert J. Wanty'" , Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 09:25:17 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cam Help Bob C2OZ-6265-A Spacer - Sprocket C3OZ-6269-B Thrust plate Ford made a change March 1965 on the 289 engine; the spacer became part of the aluminum cam gear, in case you have an aluminum gear. This change maybe on the 1965 260 engines after March 1965. Thrust plate I believe is still available from Ford Spacer is C shaped to fit by the pin on the cam OD = 1.558" ID = .875" Thickness = .222" Cam shaft end play = .001-.003" You may have to change the thickness of the spacer to obtain this spec Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert J. Wanty Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 6:23 AM To: Tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Cam Help While changing the timing gears and chain on my 260 I found that the cam thrust plate is toast and the thrust plate spacer is missing, how it stayed together is a mystery. Does anyone have these available or have a junk 260 that you would be willing to sell these parts? I could also mill 289 parts so if you know the thickness of the spacer please let me know. My thrust plate is 0.217" thick. Thanks Bob B382001318 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2844 - Release Date: 04/30/10 06:27:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 09:20:01 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 09:58:42 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Got Grillz? You know when you have an item pictured in your mind but have not found it. When you do see it, you know instantly that is what you were looking for. I have done this with the screen material I want for the vents in my LAT hood. Well, while at Ace Hardware yesterday getting some bolts, I walked down an isle I don't normally and there it was. Premium Hinged Gutter Guard by Amerimax Home Products (UPC 49821 85280). $3 I think they look great. A bit of cutting and bending, black paint, clear coat and some hot glue and walla - http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/grillsz3.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Grillz1.jpg Duke B328002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 09:41:45 2010 From: To: wsamouce , Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 11:29:07 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Got Grillz? Excellent sourcing of materials, Duke! Looks great! Andy Walker Edmond, OK B382001600LRXFE TAC #740 B9006857LRX ---- wsamouce wrote: > You know when you have an item pictured in your mind but have not found it. > When you do see it, you know instantly that is what you were looking for. I > have done this with the screen material I want for the vents in my LAT hood. > Well, while at Ace Hardware yesterday getting some bolts, I walked down an > isle I don't normally and there it was. Premium Hinged Gutter Guard by > Amerimax Home Products (UPC 49821 85280). $3 > > I think they look great. A bit of cutting and bending, black paint, clear > coat and some hot glue and walla - > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/grillsz3.jpg > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Grillz1.jpg > > Duke > B328002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger@cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 13:48:56 2010 From: "Mountjoy" To: Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 12:17:50 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Got Grillz? Nice source, Duke but hot glue ?? You plan on running your motor? I'd hate to see those grillz slide off and get lost because your hot glue melted. Darrell Message: 5 Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 09:58:42 -0500 From: "wsamouce" Subject: [Tigers] Got Grillz? To: Message-ID: <000301caead1$1f483210$5dd89630$@rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" You know when you have an item pictured in your mind but have not found it. When you do see it, you know instantly that is what you were looking for. I have done this with the screen material I want for the vents in my LAT hood. Well, while at Ace Hardware yesterday getting some bolts, I walked down an isle I don't normally and there it was. Premium Hinged Gutter Guard by Amerimax Home Products (UPC 49821 85280). $3 I think they look great. A bit of cutting and bending, black paint, clear coat and some hot glue and walla - http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/grillsz3.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Grillz1.jpg Duke B328002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 15:42:37 2010 From: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" To: Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 16:24:02 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] ArmorAll List Has any one tried ArmorAll,s new "Wheel Protectant"? The little video on their website looks promising. Or is it too good to be true? Jerry Christopherson 9473187 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 15:56:59 2010 From: MAURO D'ANGELO To: Mountjoy , Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 17:32:31 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Got Grillz? That's what Kent Wilcox uses (hot glue) to stick the grills on his LAT hoods! Mauro On 5/3/10 3:17 PM, "Mountjoy" wrote: > Nice source, Duke but hot glue ?? You plan on running your motor? I'd hate > to see those grillz slide off and get lost because your hot glue melted. > > Darrell > > Message: 5 > Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 09:58:42 -0500 > From: "wsamouce" > Subject: [Tigers] Got Grillz? > To: > Message-ID: <000301caead1$1f483210$5dd89630$@rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > You know when you have an item pictured in your mind but have not found it. > When you do see it, you know instantly that is what you were looking for. I > have done this with the screen material I want for the vents in my LAT hood. > Well, while at Ace Hardware yesterday getting some bolts, I walked down an > isle I don't normally and there it was. Premium Hinged Gutter Guard by > Amerimax Home Products (UPC 49821 85280). $3 > > I think they look great. A bit of cutting and bending, black paint, clear > coat and some hot glue and walla - > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/grillsz3.jpg > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Grillz1.jpg > > Duke > B328002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 3 21:39:07 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: "'Mountjoy'" , Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 22:10:17 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Got Grillz? If it ever gets so hot in my engine compartment that the glue melts. I have much more serious problems to worry about. Duke -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mountjoy Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 2:18 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Got Grillz? Nice source, Duke but hot glue ?? You plan on running your motor? I'd hate to see those grillz slide off and get lost because your hot glue melted. Darrell Message: 5 Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 09:58:42 -0500 From: "wsamouce" Subject: [Tigers] Got Grillz? To: Message-ID: <000301caead1$1f483210$5dd89630$@rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" You know when you have an item pictured in your mind but have not found it. When you do see it, you know instantly that is what you were looking for. I have done this with the screen material I want for the vents in my LAT hood. Well, while at Ace Hardware yesterday getting some bolts, I walked down an isle I don't normally and there it was. Premium Hinged Gutter Guard by Amerimax Home Products (UPC 49821 85280). $3 I think they look great. A bit of cutting and bending, black paint, clear coat and some hot glue and walla - http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/grillsz3.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Grillz1.jpg Duke B328002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 09:38:46 2010 From: "cullen mccann" To: Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 10:20:56 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] testing? I changed my email from my work to a personal account..anybody receiving me? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 10:34:04 2010 From: "cullen mccann" To: Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 11:18:14 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Thanks - reception check Thanks all who have checked in with me..looks like im coming in loud and clear. You guys are the best.. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 11:47:18 2010 From: PhastPhill@aol.com To: clarkwgriswold2nd@gmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 13:21:24 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] testing? yes _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 22:17:32 2010 From: paul rudge To: Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 22:04:01 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Front Clip Replacement I bought my Tiger in 1989 with some poorly repaired front end damage; grafted passenger fender, homemade vailance, slightly bent front rail, bondo and now rusty front fender bottoms. I am looking to replace with a straight front clip off a donor car I have. I'm sure this is more involved than just "drilling out the spot welds" but would like to ask the forum if there is any documentation on the subject or whether there is anyone out there who has tackled this type of replacement and can advise me on the process. Car was last driven to SUNI IV where it was tac'd and then retired to the garage upon returning home after the clutch took it's last breath in my driveway. It is now in a zillion pieces and awaiting my attention. I recently retired after 32 years in the oil patch and am looking forward to some "me time" which will include a lot of garage hours to get the Tiger back on the road. Any comments are welcomed. Thanks, Paul B9470452 _________________________________________________________________ Win a $10,000 shopping spree from Hotmail! Enter now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9729711 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 22:32:06 2010 From: DAVID GREEN To: Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 22:05:22 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Original Air Cleaner Needed Hi All, Anyone have an original AC air cleaner out there for sale? Please contact me off list. Dave Green 14 Alpines, 2 Mk1 Tigers alpdavegre@msn.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 4 23:46:13 2010 From: michael king To: DAVID GREEN Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 15:21:31 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original Air Cleaner Needed there is 1/2 a cleaner on ebay... On 5 May 2010 14:05, DAVID GREEN wrote: > Hi All, > > > > Anyone have an original AC air cleaner out there for sale? Please contact > me > off list. > > Dave Green > > 14 Alpines, 2 Mk1 Tigers > > alpdavegre@msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 5 13:31:45 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Wed, 05 May 2010 12:17:45 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Front Clip Replacement Paul, I have replaced my front clip and the lower - rear of the front fenders. In my case I did them as separate sections. When I purchased my Tiger it came with a detached spare front clip (slightly past the centerline of the front fender) and at a CAT swapmeet I purchased the lower fender panels. The front clip was replaced at the 2 O'clock (drivers side) and the 10 O'clock (passenger side) positions as they relate to the front wheel wells. The limitation of replacement was determined by the amount of metal I received. For the front clip I did in fact pretty much drill out the spot welds. I elected to retain the original inner fenders which required some cutting. To join the two I did go back about 6 inches with the new clip's inner fender. It just seemed like a logical point and helped to some what hide the weld. At the fender I overlapped the metal about an inch. On the lower overlap I cut fingers about an inch wide to facilitate bending them down, under the new metal. With the lower fender pieces they already had the overlap designed in. In both cases I used a MIG welder (all I had) but I have been told that gas welding is preferable. If you have a donor car you will have to determine where to make the cuts. However, it seems that getting into the windshield/heater duct/firewall area can become complicated. Maybe there are others with more experience. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 6 08:07:37 2010 From: To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 13:51:20 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Tool lending Not sure why this community does not have this in place but I will start it. I am willing to lend my hub puller and slide hammer to anyone who needs it. No need for others to keep making these tools. The slide hammer has a case and if I remove all of the accessories not needed, it will reduce the shipping weight. I just ask that the borrower pay shipping both ways. Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 08:48:20 2010 From: "Mike Michels" To: , Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 07:27:40 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tool lending Duke, great suggestion and very generous of you to offer to the Tiger community. Fortunately, I don't need to work on axles, at least not for now! -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce@kc.rr.com Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 6:51 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Tool lending Not sure why this community does not have this in place but I will start it. I am willing to lend my hub puller and slide hammer to anyone who needs it. No need for others to keep making these tools. The slide hammer has a case and if I remove all of the accessories not needed, it will reduce the shipping weight. I just ask that the borrower pay shipping both ways. Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mmichels@socal.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 09:50:04 2010 From: Randy Zimmermann To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 07:55:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Wheel stud replacement I need to replace the wheel studs on my rear wheels. Can this be done without pulling the hubs off? Appreciate any guidance or advice. Thanks. Randy Z Duluth, MN 67 MkIa _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 10:51:18 2010 From: To: tigers@autox.team.net, Randy Zimmermann Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 10:58:26 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Wheel stud replacement Yes, If you drill a hole in the back plate. Look at this picture - http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-4.jpg That is what a PO did with one of mine. I don't reccomend it. You still will have to bang the heck out of the studs and thus hub to get the old ones out. Duke B382002037 ---- Randy Zimmermann wrote: > I need to replace the wheel studs on my rear wheels. Can this be done without > pulling the hubs off? > > Appreciate any guidance or advice. Thanks. > > Randy Z > Duluth, MN > 67 MkIa > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 10:52:34 2010 From: Owain Lloyd To: Randy Zimmermann Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 16:59:48 +0100 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Wheel stud replacement when i snapped all four studs in morocco, i cut a very small v shaped notch in the axle flange with a hack saw. then i cut a little flat off one side of the head of each of the new suds and there was enough room to get them in. took about 15 minutes from the start to having the wheel back on. to remove the old ones just cut them down and bang them out (or wait until they all sheer off as i did!). On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 3:55 PM, Randy Zimmermann wrote: > I need to replace the wheel studs on my rear wheels. Can this be done > without > pulling the hubs off? > > Appreciate any guidance or advice. Thanks. > > Randy Z > Duluth, MN > 67 MkIa > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 10:53:21 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: tigers@autox.team.net, Randy Zimmermann Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 09:08:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Wheel stud replacement No Randy, you have to pull the hubs. I couldnt find any studs that had the same knurlings where they go thru the hub. The threaad is an easy match. I also had a set of expensive 14" wheels( cant recall the brand but expensive) and they needed spacers on the rears to clear- just a 1/4nch space fixed the problem but I had to carry a torque wrench and check the lug nuts every other fill up. Perhaps I could have tightened them more but I went with the shop mannual. They always where a bit loose. Winter came and went and the next spring I forgot to retorque the wheels and lost one. Lucky for me I was almost stopped when the wheel came off the lug bolts- one was already broken but useable- so now is the time to adjust any length problems you may or may not have. The stock bolts are just to long to get out with the hub on. TonytheTiger --- On Fri, 5/7/10, Randy Zimmermann wrote: From: Randy Zimmermann Subject: [Tigers] Wheel stud replacement To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Friday, May 7, 2010, 9:55 AM I need to replace the wheel studs on my rear wheels. Can this be done without pulling the hubs off? Appreciate any guidance or advice. Thanks. Randy Z Duluth, MN 67 MkIa _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 13:05:41 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" To: "=?utf-8?B?VG9ueSBTb21lYm9keQ==?=" Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 12:09:37 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Wheel_stud_replacement?= You can buy longer nuts for mags that allow the stud to be loaded nearer the hub. Your nuts were loosening because (perhaps) of flex in the studs under torque. We used spacers on mags on race cars, but used countersunk screws to hold them in position until clamping. The holes in the spacers were carefully bored and spaced to fit the longer nuts precisely. This loads the stud at the bottom, nearest the brake. This has worked on both open- and closed-wheel cars. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Tony Somebody" Date: Fri, May 7, 2010 11:08 Subject: [Tigers] Wheel stud replacement To: , "Randy Zimmermann" No Randy, you have to pull the hubs. I couldnt find any studs that had the same knurlings where they go thru the hub. The threaad is an easy match. I also had a set of expensive 14" wheels( cant recall the brand but expensive) and they needed spacers on the rears to clear- just a 1/4nch space fixed the problem but I had to carry a torque wrench and check the lug nuts every other fill up. Perhaps I could have tightened them more but I went with the shop mannual. They always where a bit loose. Winter came and went and the next spring I forgot to retorque the wheels and lost one. Lucky for me I was almost stopped when the wheel came off the lug bolts- one was already broken but useable- so now is the time to adjust any length problems you may or may not have. The stock bolts are just to long to get out with the hub on. TonytheTiger --- On Fri, 5/7/10, Randy Zimmermann wrote: From: Randy Zimmermann Subject: [Tigers] Wheel stud replacement To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Friday, May 7, 2010, 9:55 AM I need to replace the wheel studs on my rear wheels. Can this be done without pulling the hubs off? Appreciate any guidance or advice. Thanks. Randy Z Duluth, MN 67 MkIa _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 13:39:42 2010 From: To: tigers@autox.team.net, Randy Zimmermann Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 18:56:52 +0000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Wheel stud replacement I will lend you my hub puller if you want. Will make the job very easy. See this thread - http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13968 You pay shipping both ways. Duke B382002037 ---- Randy Zimmermann wrote: > I need to replace the wheel studs on my rear wheels. Can this be done without > pulling the hubs off? > > Appreciate any guidance or advice. Thanks. > > Randy Z > Duluth, MN > 67 MkIa > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 15:05:26 2010 From: Steve Ralsten To: Tiger email list Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 13:31:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] In a field in Texas Found this on a website I visit in their "ran when parked" section. Anyone near enough to this car to check it out. Shame to let it rot. hardtop, lat hood, chrome headlight rims. Texas http://classicmotorsports.net/ran-when-parked/239/ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 16:08:45 2010 From: MWood24020@aol.com To: s_ralsten@yahoo.com, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 17:08:31 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] In a field in Texas no LAT hood, but it looks like a solid resto project, imho. Texas = less rust issues, usually. In a message dated 5/7/2010 2:06:32 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, s_ralsten@yahoo.com writes: http://classicmotorsports.net/ran-when-parked/239/ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 16:11:10 2010 From: To: Steve Ralsten , Tiger email list Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 17:31:58 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] In a field in Texas Steve: Yeah, I'd do a double-take on that myself!!!! It's a shame I didn't know about this last week. The Red River Triumph club was just here in the OKC area for their Regional VTR meet. I had my Tiger t-shirt on and if I'd have known about the existence of that car, I would certainly have asked around until I found someone who knew about it. By the way, that's not a LAT hood, and I'm not so sure those are chrome headlight rings. However, it does have the old American Racing Silverstone wheels that everyone seems to want. Later, Andy Walker Edmond, OK B382001600LRXFE TAC #740 B9006857LRX ---- Steve Ralsten wrote: > Found this on a website I visit in their "ran when parked" section. Anyone near enough > to this car to check it out. Shame to let it rot. hardtop, lat hood, chrome headlight rims. > Texas > > http://classicmotorsports.net/ran-when-parked/239/ > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger@cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 16:40:20 2010 From: Steve Ralsten To: MWood24020@aol.com, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:04:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] In a field in Texas Agree, I'm guilty of the glance and assume. ________________________________ From: "MWood24020@aol.com" To: s_ralsten@yahoo.com; tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 7, 2010 2:08:31 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] In a field in Texas no LAT hood, but it looks like a solid resto project, imho. Texas = less rust issues, usually. In a message dated 5/7/2010 2:06:32 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, s_ralsten@yahoo.com writes: http://classicmotorsports.net/ran-when-parked/239/ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 17:11:02 2010 From: "rande" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 18:27:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] In a field in Texas I second it that the hood is no LAT model, just a period American car scoop grafted onto a stock one. My car came with a homemade scoop hood courtesy of the previous owner. What look like American Racing Equipment Silverstone alloy wheels are on the TX car, and I can think of three possible dudes who'd want those. Matt Taylor and his dad own the former Larry Reed Sports Car drag Tiger, which was photographed with Silverstones back in the day. Dave Kellogg told me (IIRC) that he was looking for a set, and I think Steve Silverstein bought an Alpine with a set of these. Looking for that Tiger? Is it possible that it's as easy as driving around the area surrounding Brushy Creek Winery, Decatur Texas.Cmon, our Texas guys, while it's still light, let's saddle up and go take a look. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 17:12:19 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: , "'Steve Ralsten'" , "'Tiger Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 17:36:45 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] In a field in Texas Looks like a Corvette hood scoop. BLASPHAMY! Duke B382002037 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of awtiger@cox.net Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 4:32 PM To: Steve Ralsten; Tiger email list Subject: Re: [Tigers] In a field in Texas Steve: Yeah, I'd do a double-take on that myself!!!! It's a shame I didn't know about this last week. The Red River Triumph club was just here in the OKC area for their Regional VTR meet. I had my Tiger t-shirt on and if I'd have known about the existence of that car, I would certainly have asked around until I found someone who knew about it. By the way, that's not a LAT hood, and I'm not so sure those are chrome headlight rings. However, it does have the old American Racing Silverstone wheels that everyone seems to want. Later, Andy Walker Edmond, OK B382001600LRXFE TAC #740 B9006857LRX ---- Steve Ralsten wrote: > Found this on a website I visit in their "ran when parked" section. Anyone near enough > to this car to check it out. Shame to let it rot. hardtop, lat hood, chrome headlight rims. > Texas > > http://classicmotorsports.net/ran-when-parked/239/ > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger@cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 17:44:33 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Randy Zimmermann Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 16:04:58 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Wheel stud replacement - Hub Puller Randy, In short terms, yes the hub may be removed, and the studs replaced. The issue of a hub puller for the Tiger has been solved by one of the List's premier mechanic, Dan Walters. , (Past President of CAT) His story can be found (like a great deal of Tiger facts, history, and Articles) in one of his articles, "Ultimate Tiger Hub Puller" at: http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/WaltersPuller/rt-WaltersHubPuller1.asp This is sturdy, and works well as it is specifically designed for the Tiger. Maybe your MN Tiger friends can get together and share costs and use. A great many of our Tiger friends have contributed to the web site content, and a "hot" list of their articles can be found at: http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/byauthor.asp Steve, a firm believer in not re-inventing the wheel (except for LAT) Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Randy Zimmermann wrote: > I need to replace the wheel studs on my rear wheels. Can this be done without > pulling the hubs off? > > Appreciate any guidance or advice. Thanks. > > Randy Z > Duluth, MN > 67 MkIa _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 20:07:29 2010 From: To: tigers@autox.team.net, rande@thecia.net Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 21:09:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] In a field in Texas FYI - I forwarded Steve's e-mail to my brother in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. He called the owner and found out that it's not for sale. ---- rande wrote: > I second it that the hood is no LAT model, just a period American car scoop > grafted onto a stock one. My car came with a homemade scoop hood courtesy of > the previous owner. > > What look like American Racing Equipment Silverstone alloy wheels are on the > TX car, and I can think of three possible dudes who'd want those. Matt Taylor > and his dad own the former Larry Reed Sports Car drag Tiger, which was photographed > with Silverstones back in the day. Dave Kellogg told me (IIRC) that he was looking > for a set, and I think Steve Silverstein bought an Alpine with a set of these. > > > Looking for that Tiger? Is it possible that it's as easy as driving around the > area surrounding Brushy Creek Winery, Decatur Texas.Cmon, our Texas guys, while > it's still light, let's saddle up and go take a look. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cspoor@roadrunner.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 7 22:16:21 2010 From: Steven Silverstein To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 23:26:42 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Silverstone wheels on the Tiger Rande, Yes, I have a few sets of the Silverstones on my Alpines. You have to be careful regarding the magnesium corrosion and age. If you ever consider buying a set have the tires dismounted first to inspect the corrosion on the inside of the rim which can be the worst of it. Also, Tigers and Alpines were often sold in sets with two different offsets, not all the time of course, but dealer sheets describe the wheel sets as having two offsets. The fronts would be different from the rear in order to even the front and rear track widths. They are very nice looking rims. Unique in comparison with Mini-lites. Keeping them polished can be a pain. I use 3M's Imperial glaze to lift the oxidation from the rims leaving the center of the wheels dark... those wheels on the Tiger in the field would take weeks to bring back. I am sure you could employ some type of electric buffer but I always just buff often and by hand. Steve _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 00:39:32 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: cspoor@roadrunner.com Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 22:47:16 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] In a field in Texas Here are a number of Tiger's and wheels, as well as some commentary: http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/tech_threads/tt-wheel.asp Mine are the Silverstones, like the ones on the Ken Miles prototype pictured. The 16 inch Panasports on Jerry Vanderpool's car are really striking, AND the tires are still being sold. 205/45/ZR16, on the front, and 225/45ZR16 on the rear. Lots of Tech Notes in this section from guys you should know. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com cspoor@roadrunner.com wrote: > FYI - I forwarded Steve's e-mail to my brother in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. He called the owner and found out that it's not for sale. > > ---- rande wrote: > >> I second it that the hood is no LAT model, just a period American car scoop >> grafted onto a stock one. My car came with a homemade scoop hood courtesy of >> the previous owner. >> >> What look like American Racing Equipment Silverstone alloy wheels are on the >> TX car, and I can think of three possible dudes who'd want those. Matt Taylor >> and his dad own the former Larry Reed Sports Car drag Tiger, which was photographed >> with Silverstones back in the day. Dave Kellogg told me (IIRC) that he was looking >> for a set, and I think Steve Silverstein bought an Alpine with a set of these. >> >> >> Looking for that Tiger? Is it possible that it's as easy as driving around the >> area surrounding Brushy Creek Winery, Decatur Texas.Cmon, our Texas guys, while >> it's still light, let's saddle up and go take a look. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 06:35:38 2010 From: MGD To: Steve Laifman , Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 07:58:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] In a field in Texas I have a set of 16 inch Panasports on my car at the moment. I think they really look good on the car. They also allow for a large choice of tires to mount. On 5/8/10 1:47 AM, "Steve Laifman" wrote: > Here are a number of Tiger's and wheels, as well as some commentary: > > > http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/tech_threads/tt-wheel.asp > > Mine are the Silverstones, like the ones on the Ken Miles prototype > pictured. > > The 16 inch Panasports on Jerry Vanderpool's car are really striking, > AND the tires are still being sold. > 205/45/ZR16, on the front, and 225/45ZR16 on the rear. > > Lots of Tech Notes in this section from guys you should know. > > Steve > > Steve Laifman > > Editor > > http://TigersUnited.com > > > > cspoor@roadrunner.com wrote: >> FYI - I forwarded Steve's e-mail to my brother in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. >> He called the owner and found out that it's not for sale. >> >> ---- rande wrote: >> >>> I second it that the hood is no LAT model, just a period American car scoop >>> grafted onto a stock one. My car came with a homemade scoop hood courtesy of >>> the previous owner. >>> >>> What look like American Racing Equipment Silverstone alloy wheels are on the >>> TX car, and I can think of three possible dudes who'd want those. Matt >>> Taylor >>> and his dad own the former Larry Reed Sports Car drag Tiger, which was >>> photographed >>> with Silverstones back in the day. Dave Kellogg told me (IIRC) that he was >>> looking >>> for a set, and I think Steve Silverstein bought an Alpine with a set of >>> these. >>> >>> >>> Looking for that Tiger? Is it possible that it's as easy as driving around >>> the >>> area surrounding Brushy Creek Winery, Decatur Texas.Cmon, our Texas guys, >>> while >>> it's still light, let's saddle up and go take a look. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 15:22:57 2010 From: Dan Fitzgerald To: Tiger List Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 16:52:56 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] PCV Does anyone have a source for the two piece PCV set up for a MK1? Dan B9470033 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 8 19:54:35 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Dan Fitzgerald'" , "'Tiger List'" Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 21:11:33 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] PCV Dan Here are the Ford part numbers for the Tiger. C3TZ-6A666-A PCV valve 378754 Right angle fitting 378766-S Valve cover gasket C3DE-6A664-A Hose Here are 2 more part numbers for PCV valve with threads: C4ZE-6A666-A1 & C4ZE-6A666-A2. National Parts Depot lists an Adaptor 6A706 for big blocks but not sure that would work. I'm not sure anyone still has any of the threaded PCV valve parts. You may have to go to the 1965 system with the C6AZ-6A664-N hose with 2 right angle bends and a PCV valve with a hose fitting. Some of the PCV valves are made to disassemble, clean and reassemble. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Fitzgerald Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 4:53 PM To: Tiger List Subject: [Tigers] PCV Does anyone have a source for the two piece PCV set up for a MK1? Dan B9470033 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2859 - Release Date: 05/07/10 06:26:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 11:01:17 2010 From: Tod Brown To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 12:26:39 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Visit to England Although the Icelandic volcano had us on pins and needles for a while, my wife and I were able to spend the last two weeks in England sandwiched between eruptions and have now returned. Our trip was not focused on Sunbeams, but there are a couple of things I did want to mention to the group. First, I had the distinct pleasure of meeting with Graham and Ruth Vickery and viewing their two Tigers. They were exceedingly gracious and invited Merrilee and me to stay overnight at their house in Surrey. The next day Graham drove us up to Heathrow in the morning traffic. What nice people! Graham is the vice-president of STOC and is very knowledgeable about Tigers. He owns two special ones now and has owned others in the past. One example that he now owns is one of the pre-production Tigers that Rootes and Jensen put together before regular production began. According to Graham, they pulled 10 Alpines off the line and converted them to Tigers to study the engineering and modifications necessary. Graham's car is No. 10 of the group and still bears the marks of the Alpine production line (won't pass TAC) but is now fitted with a 289 and LHD. Graham's other car is a Tiger II, painted the original Orchid green. It is the last Tiger made and was initially delivered to a dealer in Scotland. Quite a thrill to see the beginning and the end together. Graham and Ruth intend to come to the United in October in Maine (without the cars, unfortunately), which is how I happened to make contact with him, so I would urge anyone who would like to talk to him to make plans for the United as well. If you need information, please contact me. The dates are Oct 8 - 10. More info at www.RootesAmerica.org. It seems the English are just as interested in cars as Americans, judging from the many interesting cars I saw while there, many of which are not available in the US. I saw a couple of groups of people touring around in their new MGs so the classic two-seaters seem to be surviving quite well. I also met a gentleman who had been a factory driver for Land Rover in Solihull who had a lot of interesting stories. Among the things he did before his recent retirement was to bring the Queen's Land Rovers up to Buckingham Palace from the factory when she and the other Royals needed them and then drive them around. Seems like that would be much more interesting than driving our politicians around in their Denalis. Finally, for those of you who are hard-core sticklers for authenticity (like the obsessive Jim Armstrong), I have managed to bring back several canisters of English air, complete with trace amounts of methane from Norfolk sheep and Icelandic ash. Fill your Dunlops with English air and be the envy of other Tiger owners at the next concours. Act fast before I put them up on eBay. Buy it Now price of 20 GBP including VAT and certificate of authenticity. Enough for one tire. Contact me for more details. Cheers, Tod B382002384LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 11:01:48 2010 From: "Joe Brown" To: Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 11:27:57 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Respect? I just picked up a copy of Hemmings Sports and Exotic Cars and there is a half-page ad in there for a company (www.flyinmiata.com/V8) that puts Corvette engines into Miatas and the headline reads "The 21st Century Sunbeam Tiger". You just don't see many people referring to Tigers in ads. Thanks, Joe Brown Arlington, TX B382000217 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 13:29:13 2010 From: "Norman C. Miller" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 11:24:10 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] MEMORIAL SERVICE - DICK BARKER The remembrance service for Dick will be held on the USS Midway, June 13th at 11:00AM. There will be an on board reception following. All are welcome to attend and celebrate Dick's life. http://www.midway.org/contact Norm _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 16:10:03 2010 From: collector2@webtv.net To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 14:13:17 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap Is this the correct cap for the Tiger, do these come chromed also? Thanks, Mike http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250627230811 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 16:58:55 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: "'Mountjoy'" , Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 16:52:37 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Ummmmmmmmm.....Crow tastes good. Darrell, Just to let you and everyone else know, good call on the hot glue. One of the grills became attached due to the softening of the glue because of heat. It did not depart the engine compartment fortunately. They are now securely fastened by 5 minute epoxy. Duke B382002037 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mountjoy Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 2:18 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Got Grillz? Nice source, Duke but hot glue ?? You plan on running your motor? I'd hate to see those grillz slide off and get lost because your hot glue melted. Darrell _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 16:59:00 2010 From: mike schreiner To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 15:02:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Corvette Miata There is a guy Alpine Body on a Miata Chassis (saw the pictures)...now if he could get them to add the corvette drive train, that would be one fast Alpine...or is it MIAPINE? Or MIAPINEVETTE? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 18:28:24 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: , Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 19:23:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap Rootes parts list does not show a Ford part number for the correct Tiger part. Cap - Oil Filler (chrome) penciled in is C4TZ-6766-A This oil cap is very close to the Tiger oil cap; the tube should be angled up slightly for Tiger part. The oil cap is low profile style and on the Falcon Sprint it was chrome. Bob Mannel's book Mustang and Ford Small Block V8 1962 - 1969 shows a low profile oil cap in black for the 1964 Fairlane HiPo 289 engine. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of collector2@webtv.net Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 5:13 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap Is this the correct cap for the Tiger, do these come chromed also? Thanks, Mike http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250627230811 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2859 - Release Date: 05/07/10 06:26:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 19:14:56 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: collector2@webtv.net, Tiger's Den Date: Sun, 09 May 2010 17:26:06 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap Mike, The complete factory part manual for the Sunbeam Tiger model is published as an addendum to the Alpine Parts List, and shows the Tiger specific parts. These were used at the Dealer's Parts Department for identifying Rootes Part numbers. (Publication 6601334) which is found on TigersUnited.com: http://tigersunited.com/resources/factory_parts_list/Tiger/tiger_part_list.asp Click on "ENGINE (Motor) Section AF If you don't have one, a free Adobe Acrobat download link is on that page. "Click" on the "AF" Section, download the document, and it downloads. Open it with Adobe Acrobat Reader (free) and you will get an exploded view of the parts list, with the cap designated as "D111" on the Pictorial Exploded Engine View, Plate "D". and is identified as "Rootes Part Number: 1229842 Cap-Oil Filler (CHROME). The Mk II publication (also on th Shows a better picture of the "D111", but no data. The eBay breather cap: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250627230811 Looks correct, and the tube is bent at the correct angle to lead a hose to the air cleaner bottom. There is no specification given for the finish - but it does have the FoMoCo C4TZ-6766-A Can't really tell if thats dull chrome or satin aluminum paint, but looks correct - if that is a picture of the item, and not "generic stock photo" Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com collector2@webtv.net wrote: > Is this the correct cap for the Tiger, do these come chromed also? > Thanks, Mike _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 19:58:09 2010 From: michael king To: collector2@webtv.net Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 10:31:36 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap On 10 May 2010 07:13, wrote: > Is this the correct cap for the Tiger, do these come chromed also? > Thanks, Mike > > The chrome ones were an option for the LAT dress up kit IIRC.. -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 20:00:24 2010 From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 20:44:42 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap What color chrome?? In a message dated 5/9/2010 5:29:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rfraser@bluefrog.com writes: Rootes parts list does not show a Ford part number for the correct Tiger part. Cap - Oil Filler (chrome) penciled in is C4TZ-6766-A This oil cap is very close to the Tiger oil cap; the tube should be angled up slightly for Tiger part. The oil cap is low profile style and on the Falcon Sprint it was chrome. Bob Mannel's book Mustang and Ford Small Block V8 1962 - 1969 shows a low profile oil cap in black for the 1964 Fairlane HiPo 289 engine. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of collector2@webtv.net Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 5:13 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap Is this the correct cap for the Tiger, do these come chromed also? Thanks, Mike http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250627230811 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2859 - Release Date: 05/07/10 06:26:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aaaglasss@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 20:00:44 2010 From: "Mountjoy" To: "wsamouce" , Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 17:51:44 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ummmmmmmmm.....Crow tastes good. Duke, Naw, crow isn't necessary. I'm just glad you didn't lose the grill work. I know there are different melt temps of hot glue but I also know how hot my underhood temps get on my Tiger. Next (first) time we're together we'll throw some real meat on the grill, pull out the BB guns to play with the crows & have a good time. Not only that we can invite the whole forum. What a great idea ! Darrell ----- Original Message ----- From: "wsamouce" To: "'Mountjoy'" ; Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 2:52 PM Subject: Ummmmmmmmm.....Crow tastes good. > Darrell, > > Just to let you and everyone else know, good call on the hot glue. One of > the grills became attached due to the softening of the glue because of > heat. > It did not depart the engine compartment fortunately. > > They are now securely fastened by 5 minute epoxy. > > Duke > B382002037 > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Mountjoy > Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 2:18 PM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Got Grillz? > > Nice source, Duke but hot glue ?? You plan on running your motor? I'd > hate > > to see those grillz slide off and get lost because your hot glue melted. > > Darrell _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 21:31:46 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: , Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 22:15:17 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap 1964 Ford Chrome only :) Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of AAAGLASSS@aol.com Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 8:45 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap What color chrome?? In a message dated 5/9/2010 5:29:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rfraser@bluefrog.com writes: Rootes parts list does not show a Ford part number for the correct Tiger part. Cap - Oil Filler (chrome) penciled in is C4TZ-6766-A This oil cap is very close to the Tiger oil cap; the tube should be angled up slightly for Tiger part. The oil cap is low profile style and on the Falcon Sprint it was chrome. Bob Mannel's book Mustang and Ford Small Block V8 1962 - 1969 shows a low profile oil cap in black for the 1964 Fairlane HiPo 289 engine. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of collector2@webtv.net Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 5:13 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap Is this the correct cap for the Tiger, do these come chromed also? Thanks, Mike http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250627230811 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 9 23:53:29 2010 From: michael king To: Tiger Talk List Tiger Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 15:02:44 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] UK tiger racing series I would hope most listers are aware of the strong race group of tiger owners in the Uk.. and that this year they are holding 2 x sunbeam only races. They also race in the Aston Martin Owners Club series (and do very well).. i was browsigng Youtube and thought id look up AMOC races.. funnily enugh there was a show doing a special on the AMOC races.. and they filmed the Sunbeam race instead!! enjoy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy1FVTBMjUU look at 3:40 -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 07:22:00 2010 From: "rande" To: collector2@webtv.net Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 08:46:35 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] oil caps I looked at the eBay item, with its related part number, and according to the latest Sunbeam 260 supplement I have, it's consistant with the listed cap for the Mark II, but... According to the Book of Norman, the cap would be Satin Black for cars from B947000001 until B382000600. It would still be black if just the LAT aluminum rocker covers, and not the full LAT 2 engine dress up kit, were installed. And even then, according to Norm's book, the chrome cap MAY NOT have been included even in the dress up kit, as it was not vented, he writes. Looking at a Rootes press photo for the LHD production Tiger, dated March 1964, it shows a chrome oil filler cap with no vent tube. Looking at a Chrysler UK press photo for the RHD Sunbeam 260, circa March 1965, it shows a black oil filler cap with a vent tube bent to the left. Looking at issue #44 of the Encyclopedia of SuperCars copyrighted in 1992 featuring the Sunbeam Tiger, they've included a nice cutaway drawing of a Tiger showing a chrome oil cap, but they've photographed two different RHD Tiger 1 engine compartments, both having the early hot water valve, and both engines show the black oil filler cap with a vent tube. As for the parts catalogue, I have two versions - one listing only the Mark I as of January 1965, and the other listing Mark I and Mark II, and chrome is specified in both for Mark I, and illustrations don't show a vent tube, while in the catalogue listing Mark II, the eBay part number is listed for the Mark II, the illustration shows a vent tube for the Mark II, and 'chrome' is not spelled out for the Mark II. If this is a concours issue, hopefully someone familiar with Tiger judging will chime in with what's acceptable for stock class If this is an emissions issue, probably the black vented cap will look better to the inspector. My 1A, #48, came with the original chrome rocker covers but no oil cap, so I'm no use there.I'm using the black cap. I don't have any of the original Rootes service bulletins, but I wouldn't be surprised if there was an update issued for US and/or California registered cars that Rootes never put into print. Anybody with original Ford parts microfiche want to check whether 1964-65 Mustang / Falcon oil caps superceeded? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 10:39:13 2010 From: S Jones To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 09:00:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] stock oil filter fittings nut sizes For the stock oil filter hose fittings (above the filter) it sems that a 3/4" and 1 7/16" fit but not too well. They are a bit rouded though. Are 3/4" and 1 7/16" the proper sizes? It is what I use but they always feel a bit off. thanks, steve B9470867 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 10:39:49 2010 From: David T Johnson To: rande@thecia.net Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 09:01:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] oil caps B382002668 has a chrome cap with bent vent tube. Even has FoMoCo on top of the cap, original hose with clamps. BTW way among the double wire hose clamps to the carb base, were several screw clamps with FoMoCo cast in the screw mechanism. --- On Mon, 5/10/10, rande wrote: From: rande Subject: [Tigers] oil caps To: collector2@webtv.net Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Monday, May 10, 2010, 12:46 PM I looked at the eBay item, with its related part number, and according to the latest Sunbeam 260 supplement I have, it's consistant with the listed cap for the Mark II, but... According to the Book of Norman, the cap would be Satin Black for cars from B947000001 until B382000600. It would still be black if just the LAT aluminum rocker covers, and not the full LAT 2 engine dress up kit, were installed. And even then, according to Norm's book, the chrome cap MAY NOT have been included even in the dress up kit, as it was not vented, he writes. Looking at a Rootes press photo for the LHD production Tiger, dated March 1964, it shows a chrome oil filler cap with no vent tube. Looking at a Chrysler UK press photo for the RHD Sunbeam 260, circa March 1965, it shows a black oil filler cap with a vent tube bent to the left. Looking at issue #44 of the Encyclopedia of SuperCars copyrighted in 1992 featuring the Sunbeam Tiger, they've included a nice cutaway drawing of a Tiger showing a chrome oil cap, but they've photographed two different RHD Tiger 1 engine compartments, both having the early hot water valve, and both engines show the black oil filler cap with a vent tube. As for the parts catalogue, I have two versions - one listing only the Mark I as of January 1965, and the other listing Mark I and Mark II, and chrome is specified in both for Mark I, and illustrations don't show a vent tube, while in the catalogue listing Mark II, the eBay part number is listed for the Mark II, the illustration shows a vent tube for the Mark II, and 'chrome' is not spelled out for the Mark II. If this is a concours issue, hopefully someone familiar with Tiger judging will chime in with what's acceptable for stock class If this is an emissions issue, probably the black vented cap will look better to the inspector. My 1A, #48, came with the original chrome rocker covers but no oil cap, so I'm no use there.I'm using the black cap. I don't have any of the original Rootes service bulletins, but I wouldn't be surprised if there was an update issued for US and/or California registered cars that Rootes never put into print. Anybody with original Ford parts microfiche want to check whether 1964-65 Mustang / Falcon oil caps superceeded? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 11:39:27 2010 From: "rande" To: pete_stanisavljevich@valpak.com Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 13:02:58 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Cal Custom oil caps Peter S., I completely forgot about the after market angle, and I seem to remember seeing caps IIRC with side venting and no tubes. I looked up the usual current suspects for non-Ford sbf parts, the Mustang guys (Mustangs ULTD, Cal Mustang, Texas Mustang, Tony Branda) and Unlimited seems to have the best selection,though they don't show the black cap with the angled tube to the left. Plenty of chrome ones, some licensed by Ford. They're separating them into closed emissions(with tube) and open emissions(tubeless). I also looked at a 1965 San Jose-built Mustang hardtop with the 'K' motor (271HP, chrome rocker covers and chrome air filter housing) and that car is using a black oil cap without a tube!!! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 12:52:22 2010 From: David or Gary To: Steve Laifman Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 18:12:58 GMT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap That is my oil cap on eBay. From period photos I believe only the very early cars (maybe 20 or so, if any) would have unvented non-nipple caps. There is no (as far as I know) Tiger Air Cleaners made without the "smog nipple" for the rubber tube vent line from the oil cap. Or a special rubber plug (that I know of) to block the vent tube on the air cleaner if a non-nipple oil cap was used. The Tiger parts book was made up before everything was finalized. Even though the Tiger parts book shows an unvented/no-nipple chrome oil cap, all I have ever seen were black with a curved tube/nipple. I have never seen an original LAT 2 kit so I can't say if the chrome oil cap had a nipple, the Lat 2 photo shows an unvented cap, but they were probably vented soon after being introduced. The chrome "nipple" cap was available from Ford under part number C4DZ-6766-B (see JPG attached) The "1960 to 1964 Ford Car Parts & Accessories Text Catalog" Parts Book shows (I will try and scan it)..... C4TZ-6766-A (Black upturned spout) for Ford, Fairlane and Falcon, and C4DZ-6766-B (Chrome) for Falcon Special (4 Barrel). The book actually states Black upturned spout and Chrome. Of course the nipple Ford caps would have to have the nipple rotated to be correct for the Tiger. I will have to dig out my 1965 up Ford book and see what it shows, can't locate it right now. David Franchi Oil Cap Link http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/21606493/386967955.jpg _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 16:27:24 2010 From: David or Gary To: David or Gary Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 21:42:05 GMT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap/parts book scan Page from Ford parts book, best I can do and get it big enough to read on a JPG. David http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/21606493/386975150.jpg ------------ That is my oil cap on eBay. From period photos I believe only the very early cars (maybe 20 or so, if any) would have unvented non-nipple caps. There is no (as far as I know) Tiger Air Cleaners made without the "smog nipple" for the rubber tube vent line from the oil cap. Or a special rubber plug (that I know of) to block the vent tube on the air cleaner if a non-nipple oil cap was used. The Tiger parts book was made up before everything was finalized. Even though the Tiger parts book shows an unvented/no-nipple chrome oil cap, all I have ever seen were black with a curved tube/nipple. I have never seen an original LAT 2 kit so I can't say if the chrome oil cap had a nipple, the Lat 2 photo shows an unvented cap, but they were probably vented soon after being introduced. The chrome "nipple" cap was available from Ford under part number C4DZ-6766-B (see JPG attached) The "1960 to 1964 Ford Car Parts & Accessories Text Catalog" Parts Book shows (I will try and scan it)..... C4TZ-6766-A (Black upturned spout) for Ford, Fairlane and Falcon, and C4DZ-6766-B (Chrome) for Falcon Special (4 Barrel). The book actually states Black upturned spout and Chrome. Of course the nipple Ford caps would have to have the nipple rotated to be correct for the Tiger. I will have to dig out my 1965 up Ford book and see what it shows, can't locate it right now. David Franchi Oil Cap Link http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/21606493/386967955.jpg __________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 16:28:35 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: David or Gary Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 14:43:28 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger oil cap Although I can't find the picture I wanted from Dealer, or Distributor literature, I do find the description on teh Dealer's Confidential Price List from R. G. Wheatley, head of the Sunbeam Tiger Division of the Sunbeam Distributer, International Motors. : "LAT 2 Dress-up Kit includes: Polished Aluminum Rocker Covers, Chrome Dipstick, Air Cleaner (chrome), Radiator Cap, & Filler Cap. Dealer Net: $66 , List Price: $86" on TigersUnited.com: http://tigersunited.com/resources/parts_service/pp-pricelist.asp Another factor, various States that had stronger emissions requirements often specified closed breather cap to vent through the intake. California was one. England was NOT, as well as many US States. This could compound what the distributor had to do to his products before sale. So, actual distributer practice would differ. Thanks to David and Gary Franchi for this document. Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com David or Gary wrote: > That is my oil cap on eBay. From period photos I believe only the very > early cars (maybe 20 or so, if any) would have unvented non-nipple > caps. There is no (as far as I know) Tiger Air Cleaners made without the _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 10 23:25:42 2010 From: "Buck Trippel" To: Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 21:32:25 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tigers at Willow last weekend Hi, I tossed some pictures of last weekend's Willow Springs event. 4 Tigers ran. Carroll & Cleo Shelby were there as part of the Shelby American Employees reunion. John Morton attended the reunion with his daughter Lea. He then hung around so he could test our Tiger before our race season kicks off in a few weeks. I managed to get to the track so late that all the Reunion stuff had ended and by the time we got the Tiger out of the trailer it was too late to run. John flew home and then flew back on Sunday to run the Tiger. http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?p=787#post787 BTW, our first race event is the first weekend in June at Infineon. 4 Tigers have been accepted. Then we and Tom Sakai will run our Tigers at both Monterey events in August. As always, Tiger owners are always welcome to hang out in our pits. Hope to visit with some of you there. Buck Trippel _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 09:32:07 2010 From: Joel Martin To: Tiger List Serve Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 07:47:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight Hello All I have the larger 289 HiPo 289 harmonic balancer. My engine shop indicates we are missing the add on counter weight that goes under the timing cover to get the crank to come into balance, I think. Does anyone know about this and where it could be sourced from? Thanks Joel _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 10:57:10 2010 From: David T Johnson To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 09:13:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Need Radiator Its about time to start looking for a radiator for my MK IA. The original took a terrible beating when the light pole that my son hit and the LAT 42 Fan ate up the radiator back side. I'm looking for a replacement. CAT use to carry them but does not list them. Does SS or Curt carry them? I suppose I could cut the damaged core out and replaced with a new three row core. Any thoughts? Dave _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 10:58:01 2010 From: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" To: "'Joel Martin'" , "'Tiger List Serve'" Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 11:12:50 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight Joel, The counterweight you're looking for is affectionately called a "hatchet head", because it looks like one I guess. I don't have one, but I'm sure someone on this list can help you. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 9:48 AM To: Tiger List Serve Subject: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight Hello All I have the larger 289 HiPo 289 harmonic balancer. My engine shop indicates we are missing the add on counter weight that goes under the timing cover to get the crank to come into balance, I think. Does anyone know about this and where it could be sourced from? Thanks Joel _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 10:58:21 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Joel Martin'" , "'Tiger List Serve'" Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 12:20:00 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight Joel There is a picture of that counter weight on this site. http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0812_how_to_rebuild_a_289_hi _po_engine/buddy_bar.html Part # C3OZ-6A360-A It is one of the unique parts for the HiPo engine. It goes on the crank first; it is also pinned to the crank gear which is thinner than a std 289 gear. The HiPo timing chain is also thinner to accommodate these parts. The HiPo crank is only distinguished from the std crank by an orange paint mark on one of the throws. I have no idea if there is a source for this part. You may need to have the engine balanced without this part. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 10:48 AM To: Tiger List Serve Subject: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight Hello All I have the larger 289 HiPo 289 harmonic balancer. My engine shop indicates we are missing the add on counter weight that goes under the timing cover to get the crank to come into balance, I think. Does anyone know about this and where it could be sourced from? Thanks Joel _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2865 - Release Date: 05/11/10 06:26:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 10:58:25 2010 From: David T Johnson To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 09:22:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Shelby Spring Fling The 33rd IN SAAC Spring Fling is next weekend May 21-23. It will be at the Brown County State Park near Nashville, IN. The Car show is Saturday May 22 and will feature over 200 Shelby or Ford powered cars. 5 Tigers have registered. Doing nothing Saturday? Spend the day with us. You'll have the time of you life. Preregister if you can their website is WWW.INSAAC.ORG or contact me at www.djoh797014@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 11:29:39 2010 From: "Bob Dixon" To: "Joel Martin" Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 10:39:19 -0600 Subject: Re: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight I believe they refer to it as a hatchet. You may find one on: http://www.hipomustang.com/ > Hello All > > I have the larger 289 HiPo 289 harmonic balancer. My engine shop > indicates we are missing the add on counter weight that goes under the > timing > cover to get the crank to come into balance, I think. Does anyone know > about > this and where it could be sourced from? > Thanks > Joel _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 11:30:48 2010 From: "rande" To: jmartiniii@yahoo.com Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 12:56:24 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] 289HP balance part If you strike out with other sources, try these guys: www.greensalescompany.com/default.asp I haven't heard about a separate sbf balancing part, but then I don't regularly build these engines. My 200hp 289 is balanced externally by the front damper and flywheel. If they need an engine code(and they should know this) ask them to look up a '65 Mustang with a 'K' engine code. I haven't used them to look up a part, just to check stock with a part number I got from a local Ford dealer. Let us know what you find out. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 11:59:00 2010 From: "Lynn Wall" To: "'David T Johnson'" , Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 10:03:04 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Need Radiator Try Tom Hall and/or Rob Guerra for a stock looking one that performs great (my friend has one and loves it). Try Dale A for an aluminum one that performs great (I have one and love it). -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David T Johnson Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 9:13 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Need Radiator Its about time to start looking for a radiator for my MK IA. The original took a terrible beating when the light pole that my son hit and the LAT 42 Fan ate up the radiator back side. I'm looking for a replacement. CAT use to carry them but does not list them. Does SS or Curt carry them? I suppose I could cut the damaged core out and replaced with a new three row core. Any thoughts? Dave _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cars@wt-inc.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 12:30:10 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: David T Johnson Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 10:52:03 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Need Radiator Dave, I do not know if Modine still makes the 4 row core I used, but have no overheating uphill at 105 F. "Modine Special Order Manufacturing Division (ONLY) "Special High Efficiency Core" Cross flow. 18 1/2 W x 15 1/2 H (stock). Four parallel rows of 5/16 tubes on 3/8 centers, 36 tubes/row, each 3/8 inch deep by 0.080 wide externally. 14 fins/per inch fin density." Used my stock fan shroud, end tanks, fan blades (Canadian) and added an electric fan that I've yet to turn on. See "Cool It, Buddy!" article: http://tigersunited.com/techtips/SteveLaifmanValance/pt-SteveLaifmanValance1.asp Which also covers air duct and horn block-off plate design templates. Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com David T Johnson wrote: > Its about time to start looking for a radiator for my MK IA. The > original took a terrible beating when the light pole that my son > hit and the LAT 42 Fan ate up the radiator back side. > > I'm looking for a replacement. CAT use to carry them but does > not list them. Does SS or Curt carry them? I suppose I could > cut the damaged core out and replaced with a new three row > core. Any thoughts? > > Dave _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 13:09:50 2010 From: larryall@pacbell.net To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 11:22:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Mini Starter Anyone on the list have a recommendation for a mini starter to be put on the Tiger? I have Rick's headers and the OE starter. The starter is very slow to crank once the car has been warmed up. I had the starter rebuilt but never really fixed this cranking issue. I am also wondering whether replacing the solenoid is recommended. It looks original based on the patina. Could the solenoid be contributing to slow cranking after engine warmup? Thanks in advance B9472723 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 14:19:13 2010 From: Carmods@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 15:35:52 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Need Radiator _slaifman@socal.rr.com_ (mailto:slaifman@socal.rr.com) writes: I do not know if Modine still makes the 4 row core I used, but have no overheating uphill at 105 F. "Modine Special Order Manufacturing Division (ONLY) "Special High Efficiency Core" Cross flow. 18 1/2 W x 15 1/2 H (stock). Four parallel rows of 5/16 tubes on 3/8 centers, 36 tubes/row, each 3/8 inch deep by 0.080 wide externally. 14 fins/per inch fin density." I don't think Modine makes radiators any more but that type of "Modine" core is still available at most radiator shops . It is also referred to as a serpentine core due to it's fin design, vs a plate and tube core like the original Tiger radiator. The serpentine is much more efficient. Fin and plate cores are more structurally durable and were used in off- road vehicles. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 14:44:54 2010 From: Owain Lloyd To: larryall@pacbell.net Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 21:04:10 +0100 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mini Starter only after the engine is warmed up? it sounds like a bad live connection at the battery that warms up as the charging circuit flows and then has high resistance and can't deliver enough current to the starter until its cooled down. i had the same problem and buck suggested this which was indeed the problem. otherwise bad connections at the solenoid could also be a problem. incidentally, i have used the basic summit mini starter for about 6 months and it works fine. check the connections, cables and solenoid first though. On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 7:22 PM, wrote: > Anyone on the list have a recommendation for a mini starter to be put on > the > Tiger? > I have Rick's headers and the OE starter. The starter is very slow to > crank > once the car has been warmed up. I had the starter rebuilt but never > really > fixed this cranking issue. > I am also wondering whether replacing the solenoid is recommended. It > looks > original based on the patina. Could the solenoid be contributing to slow > cranking after engine warmup? > Thanks in advance > B9472723 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 14:45:30 2010 From: Chris Richards To: David T Johnson Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 13:19:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Need Radiator Hello- I am a Tiger restorer in Northern CA and have a radiator solution for Tiger Owners. The core can be replaced with a modern unit if your side tanks are decent. The new core is about 25% more efficient and retains the stock appearance and mounting. I'm having one recored currently for a Mk2 project and will soon know pricing shortly. Let me know if I can help you. Regards-Chris Chris Richards Automotive www.cjrichards.org --- From: David T Johnson Subject: [Tigers] Need Radiator I'm looking for a replacement. CAT use to carry them but does not list them. Does SS or Curt carry them? I suppose I could cut the damaged core out and replaced with a new three row core. Any thoughts? Dave _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 15:46:06 2010 From: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" To: "'Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)'" , "'Joel Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 15:47:50 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight List I forgot to add; the reason the "k" code engines (HiPos) have the heavier dampers and the "hatchet" is because the HiPo engine has heavier rods and the added weight in the damper and "hatchet" makes up the difference. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry & Maureen (Mo) Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 11:13 AM To: 'Joel Martin'; 'Tiger List Serve' Subject: Re: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight Joel, The counterweight you're looking for is affectionately called a "hatchet head", because it looks like one I guess. I don't have one, but I'm sure someone on this list can help you. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 9:48 AM To: Tiger List Serve Subject: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight Hello All I have the larger 289 HiPo 289 harmonic balancer. My engine shop indicates we are missing the add on counter weight that goes under the timing cover to get the crank to come into balance, I think. Does anyone know about this and where it could be sourced from? Thanks Joel _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 15:46:46 2010 From: Larry Paulick To: David T Johnson Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 17:09:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Need Radiator David T Johnson wrote: > Its about time to start looking for a radiator for my MK IA. The > original took a terrible beating when the light pole that my son > hit and the LAT 42 Fan ate up the radiator back side. > > I'm looking for a replacement. CAT use to carry them but does > not list them. Does SS or Curt carry them? I suppose I could > cut the damaged core out and replaced with a new three row > core. Any thoughts? > > Dave > > > > Dave assuming your side tanks are ok, any good radiator shop can rebuild yours, and you can go to a newer core, slightly thicker design for improved capacity. Remember, copper cores cool better than aluminum. Larry _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 15:46:58 2010 From: "Stu Brennan" To: "'Chris Richards'" , "'David T Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 17:11:26 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Need Radiator I had my original radiator recored by a local shop a few years back. They got a 3 x 36 core, that dimensionally matched the original, from Maine Radiator: http://maineradiator.com/ They didn't know it until they started comparing dimensions, but they had a standard core that fit perfectly. It made a huge difference on my stock 260 two barrel. Stu Brennan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 16:09:35 2010 From: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" To: , Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 16:36:46 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mini Starter List, Those that want a smaller starter can use the starters that come on most late model Fords. The small starter works very well, and can be picked up at the local junk yard (I think I paid $35 for mine some years back). Be sure to ask for one that's for a standard trany, the automatic gear sticks out further than the standard (about 3/8 of an inch if I remember). These starters are lighter, more powerful and draw less current. There are about four ways to hook up the electrics, if any one is interested I can help. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Owain Lloyd Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 3:04 PM To: larryall@pacbell.net Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mini Starter only after the engine is warmed up? it sounds like a bad live connection at the battery that warms up as the charging circuit flows and then has high resistance and can't deliver enough current to the starter until its cooled down. i had the same problem and buck suggested this which was indeed the problem. otherwise bad connections at the solenoid could also be a problem. incidentally, i have used the basic summit mini starter for about 6 months and it works fine. check the connections, cables and solenoid first though. On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 7:22 PM, wrote: > Anyone on the list have a recommendation for a mini starter to be put on > the > Tiger? > I have Rick's headers and the OE starter. The starter is very slow to > crank > once the car has been warmed up. I had the starter rebuilt but never > really > fixed this cranking issue. > I am also wondering whether replacing the solenoid is recommended. It > looks > original based on the patina. Could the solenoid be contributing to slow > cranking after engine warmup? > Thanks in advance > B9472723 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 16:39:29 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" To: "=?utf-8?B?TGFycnkgUGF1bGljaw==?=" Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 16:02:46 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Need_Radiator?= And that's why a 2 row aluminum passes 4115 btu and a four row copper brass unit of the same size only passes 3296 btu. The design of the tubes play a huge role in radiator efficiency, not merely the conductivity of the metals. Thus, the aluminum griffith cooling is superior. Yeah, this starts another fireball... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Larry Paulick" Date: Tue, May 11, 2010 16:09 Subject: [Tigers] Need Radiator To: "David T Johnson" Cc: David T Johnson wrote: > Its about time to start looking for a radiator for my MK IA. The > original took a terrible beating when the light pole that my son > hit and the LAT 42 Fan ate up the radiator back side. > > I'm looking for a replacement. CAT use to carry them but does > not list them. Does SS or Curt carry them? I suppose I could > cut the damaged core out and replaced with a new three row > core. Any thoughts? > > Dave > > > > Dave assuming your side tanks are ok, any good radiator shop can rebuild yours, and you can go to a newer core, slightly thicker design for improved capacity. Remember, copper cores cool better than aluminum. Larry _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 17:23:57 2010 From: "Teepen, Jere" To: "larryall@pacbell.net" , Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 18:54:17 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mini Starter Jack Isom at IMI Hi-Torque Performance Products has for years been offering Tiger owners a great price for his starters. His number is 562-907-9400 and is located in Whittier, CA. Another lister mentioned there are two different styles of starters on Tigers, and it is worth a call to Jack to get the information regarding the differences. I had one on my previous Sunbeam and know several who have been using one of IMI's starters for years with excellent results. In fact, I need to visit him too for my current Tiger... Regards, Jere Teepen -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of larryall@pacbell.net Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 11:23 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Mini Starter Anyone on the list have a recommendation for a mini starter to be put on the Tiger? I have Rick's headers and the OE starter. The starter is very slow to crank once the car has been warmed up. I had the starter rebuilt but never really fixed this cranking issue. I am also wondering whether replacing the solenoid is recommended. It looks original based on the patina. Could the solenoid be contributing to slow cranking after engine warmup? Thanks in advance B9472723 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 17:24:57 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" To: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 16:56:23 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Need_Radiator?= Btw, I heard from my vacationing tire engineer and post his comments on tire aging. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "spook01@comcast.net" Date: Tue, May 11, 2010 17:02 Subject: [Tigers] Need Radiator To: "Larry Paulick" , "David T Johnson" Cc: And that's why a 2 row aluminum passes 4115 btu and a four row copper brass unit of the same size only passes 3296 btu. The design of the tubes play a huge role in radiator efficiency, not merely the conductivity of the metals. Thus, the aluminum griffith cooling is superior. Yeah, this starts another fireball... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Larry Paulick" Date: Tue, May 11, 2010 16:09 Subject: [Tigers] Need Radiator To: "David T Johnson" Cc: David T Johnson wrote: > Its about time to start looking for a radiator for my MK IA. The > original took a terrible beating when the light pole that my son > hit and the LAT 42 Fan ate up the radiator back side. > > I'm looking for a replacement. CAT use to carry them but does > not list them. Does SS or Curt carry them? I suppose I could > cut the damaged core out and replaced with a new three row > core. Any thoughts? > > Dave > > > > Dave assuming your side tanks are ok, any good radiator shop can rebuild yours, and you can go to a newer core, slightly thicker design for improved capacity. Remember, copper cores cool better than aluminum. Larry _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 20:14:10 2010 From: "A. C. Tynes" To: , Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 20:39:43 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight The 289 Hi-Po crank was made identically to the regular 289 crank. The only difference is that cranks were tested for hardness and the best were selected for use in the Hi-Po engines. There should be a Brinell test mark on all 289 Hi-Po cranks. Since the Ford numbers are the same on all 289 cranks and since I understand Brinell marks can be easily faked, you should be very careful when paying more for a "Hi-Po" crank. A. C. Tynes New Orleans > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fraser > Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 11:20 AM > To: 'Joel Martin'; 'Tiger List Serve' > Subject: Re: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight > > Joel > There is a picture of that counter weight on this site. > http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0812_how_to_re build_a_289_hi > _po_engine/buddy_bar.html > > Part # C3OZ-6A360-A > It is one of the unique parts for the HiPo engine. It goes > on the crank first; it is also pinned to the crank gear which > is thinner than a std 289 gear. The HiPo timing chain is > also thinner to accommodate these parts. > > The HiPo crank is only distinguished from the std crank by an > orange paint mark on one of the throws. > > I have no idea if there is a source for this part. > > You may need to have the engine balanced without this part. > > Ron Fraser > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Joel Martin > Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 10:48 AM > To: Tiger List Serve > Subject: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight > > > Hello All > > I have the larger 289 HiPo 289 harmonic balancer. My engine > shop indicates we are missing the add on counter weight that > goes under the timing cover to get the crank to come into > balance, I think. Does anyone know about this and where it > could be sourced from? Thanks Joel > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2865 - Release > Date: 05/11/10 06:26:00 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 11 22:46:06 2010 From: DAVID GREEN To: , CAT , Rick & Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 21:51:14 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] LAT 9 center cap project Sunbeam Tiger Owners, I am planning a project to reproduce the LAT 9 center caps that may have been cut off many wheels in the past. I have preliminary prices to do a limited production run using a local machine shop with a CNC mill. These will be made out of aluminum with the embossed tigers head just like the original. I have prices between $25 to $35 each piece. The more pieces I have to order the less they will cost. With $25 being the lowest price. I plan to attach mine with a large flat washer and drill and tap threads into the cap. People interested in ordering a set or even one as a paper weight need to contact me ASAP. The projected wait time once I give the go ahead is 1 month for completion. I would like to start this project by July of this year. Dave Green alpdavegre@msn.com 520-747-2901 home after 6:30 PST _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 01:40:26 2010 From: michael king To: Tiger Talk List Tiger Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 17:14:05 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Chrome oil cap LAT KIT Everyone, to follow on from the discussion of the chrome LAt issue.. i found the LAt ad, and pease look at the following pics. They did have the chrome cap, but it appears not to be a venting tube one. close up: http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2594976700054462410cVZzxk overall ad http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2002416350054462410HBOgRQ -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 07:49:59 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'michael king'" , "'Tiger Talk List Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 09:23:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chrome oil cap LAT KIT Michael According to a note in TBON "These kits were put together and supplied to Rootes by Shelby American. Oil filler cap in LAT literature was possibly never included with this kit, as it had no provision for the breather hose to the air cleaner." My thoughts are that the picture for the dress up kit was originally from Ford and then Shelby and Rootes copied the format for there parts line. I have very little information about the engine configuration for the Original T15KL and E7KL, 260 engine groups. All Tiger engines were built after Ford introduced the closed ventilation system. I do not believe any Tiger engine had the open style system but I have no information to confirm this. Anyone have an original T15KL or E7KL engine and can confirm that there is a breather cap with hose to the air cleaner or not? Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael king Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 3:14 AM To: Tiger Talk List Tiger Subject: [Tigers] Chrome oil cap LAT KIT Everyone, to follow on from the discussion of the chrome LAt issue.. i found the LAt ad, and pease look at the following pics. They did have the chrome cap, but it appears not to be a venting tube one. close up: http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2594976700054462410cVZzxk overall ad http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2002416350054462410HBOgRQ -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2867 - Release Date: 05/11/10 06:26:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 10:31:28 2010 From: David T Johnson To: Tiger Talk List Tiger , michael king Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 09:08:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chrome oil cap LAT KIT I have the same ad. And I agree that the oil breather cap shown is not the Tiger cap at all. Just a chrome non vented cap. Like other listers have observed, a state's air regs may be at play. Or the ad maker didn't have a Tiger cap. The ad for the induction kit (Tiger intake, 4 bbl carb, air cleaner) clearly shows a different air cleaner. Its round not oval and chrome. Some time ago, a lister said he had that air cleaner complete with the little decal that the ad clearly shows. He said it was a common 4bbl air cleaner like CalCustom. Now that should drive a concurs 'expert' nuts. Concurs judging is full of 'experts' Uncle Wally once argued with the SAAC judge that he should not be penalized for not having a rubber 'TIGER' gas pedal cover. He inforned him of his qualifications and said Federal regulations banned covers on suspended gas pedals. It was against the law. Some other people made the TIGER cover and it became stock. For stock concurs the cover should not be there. Just like the rubber gaskets on door handles etc. They should be a fiber gasket that does not stick out. Most everyone including me, use the rubber gaskets. I'm getting a head ache from all this. Come to the Spring Fling and we can discuss this. Dave --- On Wed, 5/12/10, michael king wrote: From: michael king Subject: [Tigers] Chrome oil cap LAT KIT To: "Tiger Talk List Tiger" Date: Wednesday, May 12, 2010, 7:14 AM Everyone, to follow on from the discussion of the chrome LAt issue.. i found the LAt ad, and pease look at the following pics. They did have the chrome cap, but it appears not to be a venting tube one. close up: http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2594976700054462410cVZzxk overall ad http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2002416350054462410HBOgRQ -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 13:15:33 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: "'Tiger Talk List Tiger'" Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 13:56:59 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Ankle safety Call Quicktime. The 6 bolt to toploader scatter shield (non SFI) is on closeout for $250. They now have four left. http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-4.jpg Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 19:41:14 2010 From: "Will Seay" To: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" , "'JoelMartin'" Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 21:29:44 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight Jerry, I ran a 289 with HiPo damper and hatchet in my 1A for a few years. The engine started out as a factory 4bbl and retained the stock rods. The HiPo damper and hatchet were added on the advice of the Ford Muscle Parts catalog. I had always thought that the damper and hatchet were just designed to damp vibrations at higher RPMs and had nothing to do with the total mass of the drive train. Will Seay - B382001570 ____________________ wseay@embarqmail.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" To: "'Jerry & Maureen (Mo)'" ; "'JoelMartin'" ; "'Tiger List Serve'" Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 4:47 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight > List > I forgot to add; the reason the "k" code engines (HiPos) have the heavier > dampers and the "hatchet" is because the HiPo engine has heavier rods and > the added weight in the damper and "hatchet" makes up the difference. > > Jerry Christopherson > 9473187 > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Jerry & Maureen (Mo) > Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 11:13 AM > To: 'Joel Martin'; 'Tiger List Serve' > Subject: Re: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight > > Joel, > > The counterweight you're looking for is affectionately called a "hatchet > head", because it looks like one I guess. I don't have one, but I'm sure > someone on this list can help you. > > Jerry Christopherson > 9473187 > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Joel Martin > Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 9:48 AM > To: Tiger List Serve > Subject: [Tigers] HiPo 289 Counter Weight > > Hello All > > I have the larger 289 HiPo 289 harmonic balancer. My engine shop > indicates we are missing the add on counter weight that goes under the > timing > cover to get the crank to come into balance, I think. Does anyone know > about > this and where it could be sourced from? > Thanks > Joel > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wseay@embarqmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 22:28:01 2010 From: cjcoffel@sonic.net To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 21:21:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Question about Pana Sports I had Pana Sports on one of my Tigers for a brief period and really liked them. If I remember right they were 15 by 6 on the front and 15 by 7 on the rear. Tires were 195 50 15 and 215 50 15, I believe. Does this sound correct? They rolled down the road great. What is the correct offset? I know a lot of people run this set up and I want to get a set for my Tiger before United. Any help would be appreciated. Chris Also, anyone run English Mini-Lites in this size..................... _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 12 22:56:50 2010 From: michael king To: cjcoffel@sonic.net Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 14:36:45 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Question about Pana Sports IIRC Dale A in CA seels those with the Tiger offsets. On 13 May 2010 14:21, wrote: > I had Pana Sports on one of my Tigers for a brief period and really > liked them. If I remember right they were 15 by 6 on the front and 15 by 7 > on the rear. Tires were 195 50 15 and 215 50 15, I believe. > > Does this sound correct? They rolled down the road great. What is the > correct offset? > > I know a lot of people run this set up and I > want to get a set for my Tiger before United. > > Any help would be > appreciated. Chris > > Also, anyone run English Mini-Lites in this > size..................... > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 04:54:33 2010 From: Randy Smith To: cjcoffel@sonic.net, Tiger List Serve Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 06:50:09 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Question about Pana Sports Chris- Here's my old post from a couple of years ago: "I just went through the same decisions. I started with the same opinion and bias that you expressed. I also wanted Minilites, since owning similar cars in the 60's. And I wanted a period look. As I got into it, the selection of 13" tires seemed to be too limited, so I decided to compromise and go to 14's. The selection of 14's turned out to be no better. In the end, I went with Panasports in 15". I have to tell you, they really look awesome on the car and they actually ride better than the 13's, and certainly handle a lot better. The main reason I went with Panasports rather than Minilites is the selection of widths and offsets. I wanted to correct the narrow rear track, and could only do it with spacers behind the Minilites. Spacers make me nervous. I blew one off of my Mini at an autocross once. I also wanted to be able to get the widest width that would fit without modification. The Minilites only come in one width and one offset. In the end, I got 15 x 6's for the front with 195/50/15's and I got 15 x 7's for the rear with 205/50/15's. I used Dunlops. The rears have additional offset to the outside and the track is now more even. The fronts fit with just some gentle bending of the front valance with my hands. The rears did require me to do some minor grinding of the inner lip of the fender, but this was accomplished in a few minutes without being able to see anything from the outside. The Panasports really have the Minilite look, but are a more modern wheel. I'm really happy with the setup. If you get Panasports, buy them through a knowledgeable Tiger shop. There are a variety of offsets and someone with experience can get you the right ones without guessing. Besides, everyone's prices are about the same. I bought mine from Dale's Restoration and he had them shipped straight from Panasport. By the way, Panasports use standard American style tapered lugnuts. You can buy them from any parts supplier. They are 7/16" x 20 thread. Most of them take a 13/16" wrench which is hard to get into a Panasport. Get the ones that will work with a 3/4" wrench. "Mr. Lugnut" brand makes an appropriate one. The 50 series tires are the same rolling diameter as stock, so the speedo is unchanged." Good luck- Randy On 5/13/2010 12:21 AM, cjcoffel@sonic.net wrote: > I had Pana Sports on one of my Tigers for a brief period and really > liked them. If I remember right they were 15 by 6 on the front and 15 by 7 > on the rear. Tires were 195 50 15 and 215 50 15, I believe. > > Does this sound correct? They rolled down the road great. What is the > correct offset? > > I know a lot of people run this set up and I > want to get a set for my Tiger before United. > > Any help would be > appreciated. Chris > > Also, anyone run English Mini-Lites in this > size..................... > -- Randy Smith INNER QUEST, Inc. 34752 Charles Town Pike Purcellville, VA 20132 703-478-1078 540-668-6699 540-668-6253 fax InnerQuestOnline.com RSSmithIQ@cs.com Tiger- B382000189 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 04:55:16 2010 From: "Would you believe..." To: , Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 06:51:20 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Question about Pana Sports I have Panasports on my Tiger at the moment. I bought them from Dale's Restorations. All four of mine are 7X16 and look really great. The reason I decided to go with 16 inch wheels is because the selection of tires in 13, 14 and 15 inch wheels has become very limited. There is still a nice selection of 16s. The offsets for 16 inch wheels are 15mm and 25mm, if I remember correctly. I hope that helps. If you call the Panasport company and tell them you are looking for wheels for a Tiger, they will refer you to Dale. If you press them because you are on the East Coast and want to save shipping time, they may give you the name of a company in Connecticut. The problem is that that company has nothing in stock and orders the wheels from the West Coast. The bottom line is, if you want Panasports for your Tiger, Dale is your man. On 5/13/10 12:21 AM, "cjcoffel@sonic.net" wrote: > I had Pana Sports on one of my Tigers for a brief period and really > liked them. If I remember right they were 15 by 6 on the front and 15 by 7 > on the rear. Tires were 195 50 15 and 215 50 15, I believe. > > Does this sound correct? They rolled down the road great. What is the > correct offset? > > I know a lot of people run this set up and I > want to get a set for my Tiger before United. > > Any help would be > appreciated. Chris > > Also, anyone run English Mini-Lites in this > size..................... > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/porsche911e@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 05:09:47 2010 From: "Would you believe..." To: , Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 07:10:28 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Question about Pana Sports ...sorry I forgot to mention in my previous reply that the tires on the Panasport 7X16 wheels with 15 and 25mm offsets from Dale A. are 205/45/16 on all four corners. You could go with 245/40/16 in the rear, but the wide fender lip may or may not cause problems. I do not like to permanently modify my car, so I went with the safe bet and got 205s in the rear. Looks great. Also, these offsets fill the rear fenders (not way in the the originals) and bring the fronts under the fenders. As a result, the car looks much more muscular, coordinated, and agile, in my own very humble opinion. On 5/13/10 12:21 AM, "cjcoffel@sonic.net" wrote: > I had Pana Sports on one of my Tigers for a brief period and really > liked them. If I remember right they were 15 by 6 on the front and 15 by 7 > on the rear. Tires were 195 50 15 and 215 50 15, I believe. > > Does this sound correct? They rolled down the road great. What is the > correct offset? > > I know a lot of people run this set up and I > want to get a set for my Tiger before United. > > Any help would be > appreciated. Chris > > Also, anyone run English Mini-Lites in this > size..................... > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/porsche911e@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 07:39:50 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: porsche911E@verizon.net, cjcoffel@sonic.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 09:29:24 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Question about Pana Sports I agree on using Dale for the Panasport. He can get anything you want and can tell you what combinations will fit and what won't. M In a message dated 5/13/2010 6:56:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, porsche911E@verizon.net writes: I have Panasports on my Tiger at the moment. I bought them from Dale's Restorations. All four of mine are 7X16 and look really great. The reason I decided to go with 16 inch wheels is because the selection of tires in 13, 14 and 15 inch wheels has become very limited. There is still a nice selection of 16s. The offsets for 16 inch wheels are 15mm and 25mm, if I remember correctly. I hope that helps. If you call the Panasport company and tell them you are looking for wheels for a Tiger, they will refer you to Dale. If you press them because you are on the East Coast and want to save shipping time, they may give you the name of a company in Connecticut. The problem is that that company has nothing in stock and orders the wheels from the West Coast. The bottom line is, if you want Panasports for your Tiger, Dale is your man. On 5/13/10 12:21 AM, "cjcoffel@sonic.net" wrote: > I had Pana Sports on one of my Tigers for a brief period and really > liked them. If I remember right they were 15 by 6 on the front and 15 by 7 > on the rear. Tires were 195 50 15 and 215 50 15, I believe. > > Does this sound correct? They rolled down the road great. What is the > correct offset? > > I know a lot of people run this set up and I > want to get a set for my Tiger before United. > > Any help would be > appreciated. Chris > > Also, anyone run English Mini-Lites in this > size..................... > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/porsche911e@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 08:39:56 2010 From: "Sunbeam Tiger" To: Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 16:35:57 +0200 Subject: [Tigers] Many congratulations Happy birthday Norm, I'm sure you will have great day. Jan B382001030 -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 09:09:27 2010 From: "Armacost, Don Jr." To: Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 09:56:20 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Motorola 525T radio Does any have or know where I can acquire a schematic for the 525T English Motorola accessory radio? Thanks, B9473374 This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the Recipient. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute, copy or alter this email. Any views or opinions presented in this email are solely those of the author and might not represent those of Peterson Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, Mission Plastics North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) . Warning: Although Peterson Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, Mission Plastics North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) has taken reasonable precautions to ensure no viruses are present in this email, the company cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage arising from the use of this email or attachments. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 09:56:14 2010 From: Tom Parker To: "Armacost, Don Jr." Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 11:46:58 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Motorola 525T radio Don, A quick net search indicated the radio was listed as a "Radiomobile" 525T. You might try here: http://www.mullion-cove.com/Circuits%20and%20Manuals%20Lists/Radiomobile.htm Tom On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 10:56 AM, Armacost, Don Jr. wrote: > Does any have or know where I can acquire a schematic for the 525T > English Motorola accessory radio? > > > > Thanks, > > > > B9473374 > > > This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended > solely for the Recipient. If you are not the named addressee you should not > disseminate, distribute, copy or alter this email. Any views or opinions > presented in this email are solely those of the author and might not > represent > those of Peterson Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, > Mission > Plastics North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) . Warning: Although > Peterson > Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, Mission Plastics > North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) has taken reasonable precautions > to > ensure no viruses are present in this email, the company cannot accept > responsibility for any loss or damage arising from the use of this email or > attachments. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 13:11:10 2010 From: Randy Zimmermann To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 11:59:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] National Collector Car Day 2010 Who says bi-partisanship in Washington, DC is dead?B At least our cars can bridge the divide. B >From today's NYT: B "War. Peace. The Economy. Honoring car collectors. It is all part of the work of the United States Senate, which has declared July 9, 2010, as bCollector Car Appreciation Day.bB That day recognizes bthat the collection and restoration of historic and classic cars is an important part of preserving the technological achievements and cultural heritage of the United States.b B To some it may also be a demonstration of reaching across the aisles. Its sponsors were Senator Jon Tester, Democrat from Montana, and Senator Richard Burr, a Republican from North Carolina." B http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/05/13/appreciating-those-who-appreciate- collectible-cars/?hpw B Randy MkIa in Duluth _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 18:24:18 2010 From: "Clyde McLaughlin" To: Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 20:21:05 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Pa Rootes meet this past week Hi Listers, To those who did not attend you missed a great get together, the Steam propullsion museum was really cool !!! Congrates and many thanks to those who organized the event, the evening dinner theater was a real bonus, and a good social event away from the cars, Thanks Again, Clyde _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 19:54:47 2010 From: DAVID GREEN To: Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 19:50:28 -0600 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Many Congratulations I second that! Thank you Norm for all your work keeping the records for Tigers and sharing the information selflessly. Hope you had a Grrrrreat Day!!!! Dave Green Tucson, Az. 2 Mk1 Tigers and 13 1/2 Alpines now! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 20:09:01 2010 From: "Would.U.Believe" To: wsamouce , 'Tiger Talk List Tiger' Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 21:59:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety Speaking of bell housings, does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts that keep the transmission to the bell housing and those that keep the bell housing on the engine? I would not want to install them too loosely, and I would not want to over-torque them either... Also, is it preferable to install the transmission to the bell housing, and then the two as a unit to the engine, or is it better to install the bell housing to the engine first? May seem like a dumb question, but what can I tell you? FYI, the engine is a Mark 2 289, the transmission is a Mark 2 (HEH-CF) wide ratio, and the bell housing is the original aluminum 6 bolt bell housing. Thanks a lot for the help. MGD B382001355LRXFE On 5/12/10 2:56 PM, "wsamouce" wrote: > Call Quicktime. The 6 bolt to toploader scatter shield (non SFI) is on > closeout for $250. They now have four left. > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-4.jpg > > > Duke > B382002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/porsche911e@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 20:24:18 2010 From: michael king To: "Would.U.Believe" Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 12:16:28 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety Mauro, Check the WSM and it should have some figures, failng that they would be the same as any 289 mustang specs of the period. On 14 May 2010 11:59, Would.U.Believe wrote: > Speaking of bell housings, does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts > that keep the transmission to the bell housing and those that keep the bell > housing on the engine? I would not want to install them too loosely, and I > would not want to over-torque them either... Also, is it preferable to > install the transmission to the bell housing, and then the two as a unit to > the engine, or is it better to install the bell housing to the engine > first? > May seem like a dumb question, but what can I tell you? FYI, the engine is > a Mark 2 289, the transmission is a Mark 2 (HEH-CF) wide ratio, and the > bell > housing is the original aluminum 6 bolt bell housing. Thanks a lot for the > help. > > MGD B382001355LRXFE > > > On 5/12/10 2:56 PM, "wsamouce" wrote: > > > Call Quicktime. The 6 bolt to toploader scatter shield (non SFI) is on > > closeout for $250. They now have four left. > > > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-4.jpg > > > > > > Duke > > B382002037 > > _______________________________________________ > > Tigers@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/porsche911e@verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 13 21:56:10 2010 From: Tom Parker To: "Would.U.Believe" Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 23:55:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety Funny, the Tiger docs and my 1964 Motor's Manual don't cover that! I checked a Mustang forum; they were talking about 5 liter / 5 speed, but the figures should be about right for a 289: Bell housing to block: 38 - 55 ft. lbs., transmission to bell housing: 45 - 65 ft. lbs.. I've used @ 50 ft. lbs. for both with grade 8 bolts with lock washers; the bolts are 7/16", Grade 5 bolt torque is 49, Grade 8 is 70 according to the online chart. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/25.shtml http://www.portlandbolt.com/technicalinformation/bolt-torque-chart.html As to which gets mounted first, everybody has their own procedures. I put the bell housing on the engine first, use @ 6" long 7/16 bolts on all four corners to slide in the transmission, remove the bottom bolts and install the mounting bolts, then do the top. It makes aligning the transmission input shaft to the clutch much easier. A note of caution: do not use the mounting bolts to draw the transmission into the pilot bearing. you can push the pilot bearing back... this according to the folks who made my new clutch. Tom On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 9:59 PM, Would.U.Believe wrote: > Speaking of bell housings, does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts > that keep the transmission to the bell housing and those that keep the bell > housing on the engine? I would not want to install them too loosely, and I > would not want to over-torque them either... Also, is it preferable to > install the transmission to the bell housing, and then the two as a unit to > the engine, or is it better to install the bell housing to the engine > first? > May seem like a dumb question, but what can I tell you? FYI, the engine is > a Mark 2 289, the transmission is a Mark 2 (HEH-CF) wide ratio, and the > bell > housing is the original aluminum 6 bolt bell housing. Thanks a lot for the > help. > > MGD B382001355LRXFE > > > On 5/12/10 2:56 PM, "wsamouce" wrote: > > > Call Quicktime. The 6 bolt to toploader scatter shield (non SFI) is on > > closeout for $250. They now have four left. > > > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-4.jpg > > > > > > Duke > > B382002037 > > _______________________________________________ > > Tigers@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/porsche911e@verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 04:53:46 2010 From: "Would.U.Believe" To: Tom Parker , MGD Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 06:35:45 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety Thanks very much. I could not find that information in my documentation! Much appreciated! On 5/13/10 11:55 PM, "Tom Parker" wrote: > Funny, the Tiger docs and my 1964 Motor's Manual don't cover that! > > I checked a Mustang forum; they were talking about 5 liter / 5 speed, but > the figures should be about right for a 289: Bell housing to block: 38 - 55 > ft. lbs., transmission to bell housing: 45 - 65 ft. lbs.. I've used @ 50 ft. > lbs. for both with grade 8 bolts with lock washers; the bolts are 7/16", > Grade 5 bolt torque is 49, Grade 8 is 70 according to the online chart. > > http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/25.shtml > > http://www.portlandbolt.com/technicalinformation/bolt-torque-chart.html > > As to which gets mounted first, everybody has their own procedures. I put > the bell housing on the engine first, use @ 6" long 7/16 bolts on all four > corners to slide in the transmission, remove the bottom bolts and install > the mounting bolts, then do the top. It makes aligning the transmission > input shaft to the clutch much easier. > > A note of caution: do not use the mounting bolts to draw the transmission > into the pilot bearing. you can push the pilot bearing back... this > according to the folks who made my new clutch. > > Tom > > On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 9:59 PM, Would.U.Believe > wrote: > >> Speaking of bell housings, does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts >> that keep the transmission to the bell housing and those that keep the bell >> housing on the engine? I would not want to install them too loosely, and I >> would not want to over-torque them either... Also, is it preferable to >> install the transmission to the bell housing, and then the two as a unit to >> the engine, or is it better to install the bell housing to the engine >> first? >> May seem like a dumb question, but what can I tell you? FYI, the engine is >> a Mark 2 289, the transmission is a Mark 2 (HEH-CF) wide ratio, and the >> bell >> housing is the original aluminum 6 bolt bell housing. Thanks a lot for the >> help. >> >> MGD B382001355LRXFE >> >> >> On 5/12/10 2:56 PM, "wsamouce" wrote: >> >>> Call Quicktime. The 6 bolt to toploader scatter shield (non SFI) is on >>> closeout for $250. They now have four left. >>> >>> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-4.jpg >>> >>> >>> Duke >>> B382002037 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Tigers@autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/porsche911e@verizon.net >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 09:41:52 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Would.U.Believe'" , "'Tiger Talk List Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 11:42:19 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety MGD 1988 Mustang manual lists: Bellhousing to block 38 - 55 lb-ft Transmission to bellhousing 45-65 lb-ft 1965 Ford manual lists: Bellhousing to block 40 - 50 ft lbs Transmission to bellhousing 37 - 42 ft lbs Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would.U.Believe Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 10:00 PM To: wsamouce; 'Tiger Talk List Tiger' Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety Speaking of bell housings, does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts that keep the transmission to the bell housing and those that keep the bell housing on the engine? I would not want to install them too loosely, and I would not want to over-torque them either... Also, is it preferable to install the transmission to the bell housing, and then the two as a unit to the engine, or is it better to install the bell housing to the engine first? May seem like a dumb question, but what can I tell you? FYI, the engine is a Mark 2 289, the transmission is a Mark 2 (HEH-CF) wide ratio, and the bell housing is the original aluminum 6 bolt bell housing. Thanks a lot for the help. MGD B382001355LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 10:24:54 2010 From: David T Johnson To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 09:23:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Spring Fling 1 week away Listers Next Friday starts of the IN SAAC 33rd Spring Flight at the Brown County State Park, near Nashville, IN. Friday features a road tour to the Ray Skillman Auto Museum in Greenwood The group will drive up in mass (a varible moving road block) and leave somewhat together. No intersates Friday night is a unscripted welcome party with lots of bench racing. Saturday is the show followed by the banquest. Sunday is the famous road rally featuring all paved roads! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 12:23:52 2010 From: Joel Martin To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 11:12:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety - Bellhousing Alignment All I have recently gotten back from a trip to Franklin, NC where Dan Williams rebuilt/refreshed my toploader. Real interesting fellow, know his toploaders foreward backwards and sideways. Dan indicates probably the most important point when installing bellhousing and toploader is the bellhousing alignment. Dan provided me with the attached information sheets on performing this task. Also attached is a copy of a tiger flyer, I thought you all might find interesting. Joel Martin [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Bellhousing_Alignment.pdf] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Tiger_Flyer.PDF] _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 12:37:43 2010 From: Gary To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 11:22:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Alright, Buddy. Pull over!!! I can't wait!!! http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/autos_content_landing_pages/1436/Leadfoots-Be ware-Future-Speeding-Tickets-Will-Come-from-Space _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 14:01:23 2010 From: Dave Munroe To: Joel Martin , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 16:44:54 -0300 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety - Bellhousing Alignment Hi Joel; I just finished refreshing my Toploader with some parts I got from Dan. Had a really interesting conversation with him over the phone. I'm sure you know what I mean! BTW, the pdf links did not come through, and, like others I am sure, I would love to have a copy of these sheets. Any chance you could e-mail me a copy? Thanks, Dave Munroe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joel Martin" To: Sent: Friday, May 14, 2010 3:12 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety - Bellhousing Alignment > All > I have recently gotten back from a trip to Franklin, NC where Dan Williams > rebuilt/refreshed my toploader. Real interesting fellow, know his > toploaders > foreward backwards and sideways. Dan indicates probably the most > important > point when installing bellhousing and toploader is the bellhousing > alignment. > Dan provided me with the attached information sheets on performing this > task. > Also attached is a copy of a tiger flyer, I thought you all might find > interesting. > > Joel Martin > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a > name of Bellhousing_Alignment.pdf] > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a > name of Tiger_Flyer.PDF] > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave@munroe.ca _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 15:44:19 2010 From: TIGEROOTES@aol.com To: drarmacost@pmlights.com, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 17:27:32 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Motorola 525T radio Try some of these Google links to Sam's Photofact. Jim http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=Sam%27s+Photofact& btnG=Google+Search _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 17:14:36 2010 From: "Jim" To: "'Dave Munroe'" , "'Joel Martin'" Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 15:50:31 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety - Bellhousing Alignment Hi Dave /Joel That Dan is a walking encyclopaedia of toploaders lol! His shop hours are noon to midnite ! ... for the Ausies who buy a lot of his stuff . I bought a real nice repro early Cobra shift handle for the Hurst linkage on my toploader ... looked great! ... but now on the shop floor after the T5 transplant... You're right about the alignment... my toploeader had the wrong ( smaller o.d. ) bearing retainer and didn't pilot in the Lakewood properly ... chewed the ring gear off! I also got a set of dowel pins/sleeves from him and dialled the whole thing in proper. Jim B382000446 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Munroe Sent: May 14, 2010 12:45 PM To: Joel Martin; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety - Bellhousing Alignment Hi Joel; I just finished refreshing my Toploader with some parts I got from Dan. Had a really interesting conversation with him over the phone. I'm sure you know what I mean! BTW, the pdf links did not come through, and, like others I am sure, I would love to have a copy of these sheets. Any chance you could e-mail me a copy? Thanks, Dave Munroe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joel Martin" To: Sent: Friday, May 14, 2010 3:12 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety - Bellhousing Alignment > All > I have recently gotten back from a trip to Franklin, NC where Dan Williams > rebuilt/refreshed my toploader. Real interesting fellow, know his > toploaders > foreward backwards and sideways. Dan indicates probably the most > important > point when installing bellhousing and toploader is the bellhousing > alignment. > Dan provided me with the attached information sheets on performing this > task. > Also attached is a copy of a tiger flyer, I thought you all might find > interesting. > > Joel Martin > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a > name of Bellhousing_Alignment.pdf] > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a > name of Tiger_Flyer.PDF] > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave@munroe.ca _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim@island.net No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.819 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2870 - Release Date: 05/13/10 23:26:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 18:00:32 2010 From: Tom Hall To: Joel Martin Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 16:52:59 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety - Bellhousing Alignment At 11:12 AM 5/14/2010, you wrote:... >Dan indicates probably the most important >point when installing bellhousing and toploader is the bellhousing alignment. >Dan provided me with the attached information sheets on performing this task. >Also attached is a copy of a tiger flyer, I thought you all might find >interesting. > >Joel Martin Although the subject is not discussed in detail, the centering of the bellhousing, with diagram, is included in my instructions for installing my 5 speed transmission in a Tiger. (see below) The procedure is not difficult but it takes a while to really get the hang of using the offset bushings, if they are required. I do feel that this is a critical step in drive line assembly to make the clutch and transmission smooth and long lived. Tom Hall ModTiger Engineering LLC www.tigerengineering.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 19:15:01 2010 From: "Robert Jaarsma" To: Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 21:01:44 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Pa Rootes meet this past week This was the well known "BASH" = Bring A Sunbeam Here, organized by Tigers East/Alpines East. Columbus day weekend, another chance is to come to a true ROOTES event. TE/AE has their United in conjunction with the Owls Head Transportation Museum's Foreign Auto festival. We welcomes all cars of the Rootes Group: COMMER, HILLMAN, HUMBER, SINGER, SUNBEAM, SUNBEAM-TALBOT. Details at WWW.ROOTESAMERICA.ORG The Museum will give away two free bi-plane rides for two people along the coast and a fly over one of our events. We hope to have as guest of honor: Roy Axe (at the Rootes Group 1959-1982, during the time the Tiger was conceived, and later its Design Director! An event you will not want to miss! Robert Jaarsma "Clyde McLaughlin" Subject: [Tigers] Pa Rootes meet this past week To: Message-ID: <004601caf2fb$58aebc40$0301a8c0@chesapeake4> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Listers, To those who did not attend you missed a great get together, the Steam propullsion museum was really cool !!! Congrates and many thanks to those who organized the event, the evening dinner theater was a real bonus, and a good social event away from the cars, Thanks Again, Clyde _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 20:17:45 2010 From: michael king To: Jim Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 11:59:19 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ankle safety - Bellhousing Alignment > His shop hours are > noon to midnite ! ... for the Ausies who buy a lot of his stuff . I bought > a > real nice repro early Cobra shift handle for the Hurst linkage on my > toploader ... looked great! .. > Jim > B382000446 If only Rick at SS would do the same!!.. or be more attentive with his emails! :-P >From down under -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 21:14:37 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 21:57:01 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] AutoMeter Cobra 8000 Tach installed Much Thanks to Paul R. Breuhan [prbreuhan@hotmail.com] for his screening services, I now have an accurate 8000 tach in my Tiger. http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-5.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/004-1.jpg I used the original gauge's class, outer and inner bezel too. This takes about 1 hour worth on modification to the autometer's case. Now a question for you all - I am having a problem with the needle jumping around when the engine is at idle. Once the rpm is over 2000, it reads correct. When I turn on the lights, at idle, it settles down a lot but still twitches. Sometimes when I start the car it read the correct idle for a few seconds and then starts to jump. I called the AutoMeter tech line and the guy thinks that I have a ground or 12v power issue. He suggested that the alternator may have a bad diode and is causing voltage problems at idle. I tried using different 12V sources with no fix. I also tried different grounds with no success. I am also using a accell electronic ignition kit in my distributer. When driving the car, the tach works perfect......until it drops to idle. Any advice as where to start? Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 14 22:17:29 2010 From: steve wick To: , Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 20:51:38 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] AutoMeter Cobra 8000 Tach installed If you had a bad diode, you would see other problems, like the battery running down. It sounds like the electronic ignition is causing a triggering problem. When the rpm's increase, it happens so fast that it appears to smooth out. I've heard on other boards that a lot of people have a problem hooking up tach's to aftermarket electronic ignition. I believe there is an adapter/filter you can install in-line to help solve the problem. Good luck. Steve > From: wsamouce@kc.rr.com > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 21:57:01 -0500 > Subject: [Tigers] AutoMeter Cobra 8000 Tach installed > > Much Thanks to Paul R. Breuhan [prbreuhan@hotmail.com] for his screening > services, I now have an accurate 8000 tach in my Tiger. > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-5.jpg > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/004-1.jpg > > I used the original gauge's class, outer and inner bezel too. This takes > about 1 hour worth on modification to the autometer's case. > > Now a question for you all - > > I am having a problem with the needle jumping around when the engine is at > idle. Once the rpm is over 2000, it reads correct. When I turn on the > lights, at idle, it settles down a lot but still twitches. Sometimes when I > start the car it read the correct idle for a few seconds and then starts to > jump. I called the AutoMeter tech line and the guy thinks that I have a > ground or 12v power issue. He suggested that the alternator may have a bad > diode and is causing voltage problems at idle. I tried using different 12V > sources with no fix. I also tried different grounds with no success. > > I am also using a accell electronic ignition kit in my distributer. > > When driving the car, the tach works perfect......until it drops to idle. > Any advice as where to start? > > Duke > B382002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/srwick@hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 15 10:14:13 2010 From: "Wayne-MSN" To: Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 11:49:19 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pa Rootes meet this past week I would like to echo Clyde's remarks. The BASH was GREAT!!! Ted Casey and co. pick of Rough & Tumble for the Saturday get-together was super. I have never seen so many steam-powered things chugging along. From tiny to massive fixed and mobile. The sights, sounds and especially the smell of the beasties was impressive. The folks who rebuild and operate shared their passion with gusto. Got lots of questions from the very eclectic crows sharing the "Steam-up" day at Rough & Tumble folks interested in our Sunbeams and sharing their Sunbeam stories. One was particularly keen to discuss Sunbeam motorcycles (didn't know they existed)! I think there were around 25 'beams at the Saturday gathering and by my count there were more Alpines than Tigers - yea Alpines! Cheers, Wayne -----Original Message----- From: Clyde McLaughlin [mailto:clydemclaughlin@verizon.net] Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 8:21 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Pa Rootes meet this past week Hi Listers, To those who did not attend you missed a great get together, the Steam propullsion museum was really cool !!! Congrates and many thanks to those who organized the event, the evening dinner theater was a real bonus, and a good social event away from the cars, Thanks Again, Clyde _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 15 17:44:34 2010 From: "rande" To: milano164@comcast.net Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 19:38:20 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels Someone on eBay in Ohio is offering a set of American Racing Libre wheels from a '71 Capri (our bolt pattern). Includes the American Racing center caps but no lug bolts. The item number is 270577586514 or just search American Racing Libre. Wish I could afford them. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 15 18:18:01 2010 From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 20:01:49 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels Local pick up only. In a message dated 5/15/2010 4:45:53 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rande@thecia.net writes: Someone on eBay in Ohio is offering a set of American Racing Libre wheels from a '71 Capri (our bolt pattern). Includes the American Racing center caps but no lug bolts. The item number is 270577586514 or just search American Racing Libre. Wish I could afford them. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aaaglasss@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 15 19:38:24 2010 From: "Brad Huff" To: Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 20:17:44 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] front suspension and alignment Years ago when I went through my front suspension on my MK 1A, I relocated my upper a arm pivot points as was recommended for better cornering. The geometry would keep the tire footprint on the ground in a hard corner due to further increasing negitave camber as the car rolled in the turn. The only problem was that the upper a arm was then too short to get the wheel back to somewhere around zero camber while at rest. So I live with approx 1-5/8 neg camber. I have a couple of questions for the group. 1) Is this still done at all, and if not how does one compensate for the increasing positive camber purposely designed into the system to make the car push in a turn? I really don't know if stock geometry and fat sway bars are the answer. 2) Is there any negitive effects of this a arm relocation other than the inability to get zero camber at rest? 3) Would there be any value to having custom length upper a arms made to get the "best of both worlds"? 4) I have installed the MG rack conversion that cuts the ackerman angle problem roughly in half, what toe settings are you using? 5) What do you guys feel the ideal front end alignment specs are? Thank you in advance.-Brad _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 15 22:15:19 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: , Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 22:39:47 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels I think they are ugly as hell. My $.02. Duke B382002037. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rande Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 6:38 PM To: milano164@comcast.net Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels Someone on eBay in Ohio is offering a set of American Racing Libre wheels from a '71 Capri (our bolt pattern). Includes the American Racing center caps but no lug bolts. The item number is 270577586514 or just search American Racing Libre. Wish I could afford them. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 16 05:12:53 2010 From: "rande" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 06:57:16 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] American Racing Libre wheels Not local pickup only!!! "Shipping: Local pick-up offered.See more services" And no, I'm not the one selling the wheels, but during the 70's, these were one of the most ubiquitous aftermarket alloy wheel models seen on small cars like 510, 240Z, and Capri's. Like Steve Silverstein pointed out earlier about the car with Silverstones, these auction wheels will need a fair amount of polishing to make them look right 'Someone on eBay in Ohio is offering a set of American Racing Libre wheels from a '71 Capri (our bolt pattern). Includes the American Racing center caps but no lug bolts. The item number is 270577586514 or just search American Racing Libre' _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 16 09:30:40 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Brad Huff'" , Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 11:00:21 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] front suspension and alignment Brad Relocating the upper A arm was a trick Shelby American used on the Mustang to get more Neg camber for racing. Someone in the Tiger group did this same trick on the Tiger; STOA has it in their 1977 Tech Tips Supplement but I do not see an author listed with the 3 part Suspension Tuning Tip. The alignment you use on a Tiger depends on the type of driving you do. Racing requires one set up; normal driving needs much less. I'm really not sure why you want zero camber at rest. There is nothing wrong with 1 5/8 Neg camber unless you are wearing the tires. My front suspension is mostly stock and I have 1/2 to 3/4 degree neg camber, caster is at the best I could get about 2 degrees and toe in is around 1/8 and I have no problem with tire wear. Can you put the upper A arm back to the original position? I would then put in 1/2 to 3/4 Neg camber and 1/16 toe in, + 3 to 4 degrees caster; this should be a good street set up. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Huff Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 9:18 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] front suspension and alignment Years ago when I went through my front suspension on my MK 1A, I relocated my upper a arm pivot points as was recommended for better cornering. The geometry would keep the tire footprint on the ground in a hard corner due to further increasing negitave camber as the car rolled in the turn. The only problem was that the upper a arm was then too short to get the wheel back to somewhere around zero camber while at rest. So I live with approx 1-5/8 neg camber. I have a couple of questions for the group. 1) Is this still done at all, and if not how does one compensate for the increasing positive camber purposely designed into the system to make the car push in a turn? I really don't know if stock geometry and fat sway bars are the answer. 2) Is there any negitive effects of this a arm relocation other than the inability to get zero camber at rest? 3) Would there be any value to having custom length upper a arms made to get the "best of both worlds"? 4) I have installed the MG rack conversion that cuts the ackerman angle problem roughly in half, what toe settings are you using? 5) What do you guys feel the ideal front end alignment specs are? Thank you in advance.-Brad _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2873 - Release Date: 05/14/10 06:26:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 16 09:59:16 2010 From: MWood24020@aol.com To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, huffb@southslope.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 11:42:54 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] front suspension and alignment IMHO, the Tiger really NEEDS static camber in at least the -1.0 range, given its poor camber curve and Ackerman issues. What wears tires, in general, is extreme toe, as in dialing in toe out on the front to accelerate turn in response. Camber, for a car driven with any spirit at all, is not a tire killer. In a message dated 5/16/2010 8:31:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rfraser@bluefrog.com writes: Brad Relocating the upper A arm was a trick Shelby American used on the Mustang to get more Neg camber for racing. Someone in the Tiger group did this same trick on the Tiger; STOA has it in their 1977 Tech Tips Supplement but I do not see an author listed with the 3 part Suspension Tuning Tip. The alignment you use on a Tiger depends on the type of driving you do. Racing requires one set up; normal driving needs much less. I'm really not sure why you want zero camber at rest. There is nothing wrong with 1 5/8 Neg camber unless you are wearing the tires. My front suspension is mostly stock and I have 1/2 to 3/4 degree neg camber, caster is at the best I could get about 2 degrees and toe in is around 1/8 and I have no problem with tire wear. Can you put the upper A arm back to the original position? I would then put in 1/2 to 3/4 Neg camber and 1/16 toe in, + 3 to 4 degrees caster; this should be a good street set up. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Huff Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 9:18 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] front suspension and alignment Years ago when I went through my front suspension on my MK 1A, I relocated my upper a arm pivot points as was recommended for better cornering. The geometry would keep the tire footprint on the ground in a hard corner due to further increasing negitave camber as the car rolled in the turn. The only problem was that the upper a arm was then too short to get the wheel back to somewhere around zero camber while at rest. So I live with approx 1-5/8 neg camber. I have a couple of questions for the group. 1) Is this still done at all, and if not how does one compensate for the increasing positive camber purposely designed into the system to make the car push in a turn? I really don't know if stock geometry and fat sway bars are the answer. 2) Is there any negitive effects of this a arm relocation other than the inability to get zero camber at rest? 3) Would there be any value to having custom length upper a arms made to get the "best of both worlds"? 4) I have installed the MG rack conversion that cuts the ackerman angle problem roughly in half, what toe settings are you using? 5) What do you guys feel the ideal front end alignment specs are? Thank you in advance.-Brad _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2873 - Release Date: 05/14/10 06:26:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mwood24020@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 16 18:07:31 2010 From: michael king To: Tiger Talk List Tiger Date: Mon, 17 May 2010 09:17:18 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] 13" tyre supplier Guys, We often talk about tyres (tires for USA) there is a seller on ebay stocking good period tyres, 13", white walls, red stripe muscle car type.. no connection just thought it might be of use.. http://stores.ebay.com/CollectorsAutoSupplycom_13-INCH-TIRES_W0QQ_fsubZ824234016QQ_sidZ30824146QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322 for 14" muscle car look: http://stores.ebay.com/CollectorsAutoSupplycom_14-INCH-RADIAL-RAISED-LETTER_W0QQ_fsubZ20171387QQ_sidZ30824146QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322 http://stores.ebay.com/CollectorsAutoSupplycom_14-INCH-RADIAL-REDLINE_W0QQ_fsubZ16796721QQ_sidZ30824146QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322 -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 16 21:04:42 2010 From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 22:10:14 EDT Subject: [Tigers] car for sale _email this posting to a friend_ (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/email.friend?postingID=1741167395) _los angeles craigslist_ (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/) > _SF valley_ (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/) > _for sale / wanted_ (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/sss/) > _cars & trucks - by owner_ (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/) please _flag_ (http://www.craigslist.org/about/help/flags_and_community_moderation) with care: _miscategorized_ (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/flag/?flagCode=16&postingID=1741167395) _prohibited_ (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/flag/?flagCode=28&postingID=1741167395) _spam/overpost_ (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/flag/?flagCode=15&postingID=1741167395) _best of craigslist_ (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/flag/?flagCode=9&postingID=1741167395) Avoid scams and fraud by dealing locally! Beware any deal involving Western Union, Moneygram, wire transfer, cashier check, money order, shipping, escrow, or any promise of transaction protection/certification/guarantee. _More info_ (http://www.craigslist.org/about/scams.html) 1965 sunbeam tiger - $35000 (stevenson ranch) ____________________________________ Date: 2010-05-14, 1:56PM PDT Reply to: _sale-tfb9c-1741167395@craigslist.org_ (mailto:sale-tfb9c-1741167395@craigslist.org?subject=1965%20sunbeam%20tiger%2 0-%20$35000%20(stevenson%2 0ranch)&body= http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/1741167395.html ) [_Errors when replying to ads?_ (http://www.craigslist.org/about/help/replying_to_posts) ] ____________________________________ for sale my 65 tiger, many new parts. the car is not stock. it has been prepped as a track day car. it is street legal, and regularly driven on the street. less than 1000 miles on rebuilt trans, rear end. close ratio toploader, dana 44 3.31 gears 31 spine axles. new true trac limited slip diff. fluidyne alum radiator, 4 wheel disc brakes wilwood fronts, fiat 124 rear disc. carrera racing shocks at all 4 corners new leaf springs and coil springs. it has strong 289 ci iron heads, headers, victor jr intake, demon carb, msd ignition 6al and billet distributor. and many more parts. it runs 1'40s on the big track at willow. with a better driver i am sure i am leaving 5 to 10 seconds on the track. 123 mph at the end of staight. it pulls strong to 6500 rpm. it sounds amazing at full wail. hate to see it go..... * Location: stevenson ranch * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests PostingID: 1741167395 ____________________________________ * Copyright ) 2010 craigslist, inc. * _terms of use_ (http://www.craigslist.org/about/terms.of.use.html) * _privacy policy_ (http://www.craigslist.org/about/privacy_policy) * _feedback forum_ (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/forums/?forumID=8) _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 16 21:40:12 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: wsamouce , "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 22:03:39 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] AutoMeter Cobra 8000 Tach installed Grab an extra 12V battery (it can be pretty much anything including a cordless drill battery in the range 12V-15.6V) and use that to power the tach. Make sure that the tach ground is connected to both the negative terminal of the 'extra' battery as well as the chassis of the car. If your problem goes away then it is the alternator, if it stays then it has to do with the signal you're getting from the coil. If the alternator has bad (worn) brushes then it can generate noise. A bent shaft or shorted commutator on a generator can do bad things to tachs as well. If the problem is from the coil and the accel module, then try putting a 1N4003 diode in the line from the coil negative to the tach input. Try either direction. Hope this helps, Theo ________________________________________ From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce [wsamouce@kc.rr.com] Now a question for you all - I am having a problem with the needle jumping around when the engine is at idle. Once the rpm is over 2000, it reads correct. When I turn on the ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 17 09:11:59 2010 From: spmdr@juno.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 17 May 2010 07:30:18 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Bellhousing, Trans bolt torque FYI I'm real skeptical about torqueing the trans to bellhousing bolts to 65 ft-lbs! Especially into an aluminium housing, typical Tiger! I have been using 40 for everything 7/16, with generally good results. But even 40 into the aluminium bellhousing can be a problem with a short bolt or bad thread. YMMV... DW ____________________________________________________________ Car Insurance for $15/Mo? New Discounts for Car Insurance Available. See if You Qualify Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bf153fbefd18a512m07vuc _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 17 16:28:54 2010 From: "Would.U.Believe" To: , Date: Mon, 17 May 2010 17:48:02 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bell housing, Trans bolt torque DW, I think you're right and the torque spec is more like between 40 and 42 foot pounds. I found this spec on 1965 Ford Mustang shop manuals. This weekend, I used a jack adaptor for early Porsche engines (it securely supports and the weight of the entire engine) to lift the transmission to the proper height. It funny because I just installed a fresh engine into my 1972 911 a couple of weeks ago using this adaptor. I was skeptical that it would actually holt the whole engine balanced on the jack, but it worked beautifully and I did it on my own in no time. The adaptor has a hole where the toploader's drain bolt fits through, which is perfect, and has a bolt that allows one to adjust the "angle of attack". It took a few adjustments of height and angle and the transmission slid right in with no force of any kind. I attached the bolts and tightened them, but have not yet torqued them to proper spec. The whole thing, engine and drive train is now on the wheeled engine stand, ready to roll under the car, when I get to that point. I'll lift it into place with the lift plate that bolts onto the intake manifold. I watched in amazement when the machinist lifted it like that. Should be pretty easy (I hope!). I have to get some pictures of this beautiful engine and transmission before it goes into the car! Anyway, thanks for the input! M On 5/17/10 10:30 AM, "spmdr@juno.com" wrote: > FYI > > I'm real skeptical about torqueing the trans to bellhousing bolts to 65 > ft-lbs! > > Especially into an aluminium housing, typical Tiger! > > I have been using 40 for everything 7/16, with generally good results. > > But even 40 into the aluminium bellhousing can be a problem with a short > bolt or bad thread. > > YMMV... > > DW > ____________________________________________________________ > Car Insurance for $15/Mo? > New Discounts for Car Insurance Available. See if You Qualify Now! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bf153fbefd18a512m07vuc > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 17 18:25:41 2010 From: "Would.U.Believe" To: Date: Mon, 17 May 2010 19:30:30 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Extra Parts Hi all, I have a few parts I know are extra and don't really know what to do with them, other than put them on eBay. Off the top of my head, I know I have a roll bar, a complete center console, and a good lower dash pad with original, undamaged covering. I am wondering if anyone has an need/interest, and what these things might be worth. The roll bar poses its own question of how the heck to ship it from Tysons Corner, VA (close to DC). Any ideas, information or interest would be appreciated. Thanks. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 18 14:09:21 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: wsamouce Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 12:23:55 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels wsamouce wrote: > I think they are ugly as hell. My $.02. > > Duke > B382002037 Maybe so, Duke. Have a look at my wheels (and Ken Miles Prototype wheels) from American Racing "Silverstone" wheels, and lots of others: http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/tech_threads/tt-wheel.asp Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 18 14:52:31 2010 From: Joel Martin To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 12:57:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup Hello All, Now thinking about the entire ignition setup on my 63/64 HiPo motor rebuild. The goal is to keep original with as many original parts/look as possible for a street driven car. FoMoCo dual point distributor C30F - 12127 - D I would like to go with Petronic Ignitor with stock looking or stock coil - what ever that is suppose to be with a MSD 6AL box. I am understanding I would need the MSD Tach converter as well in order for the stock Smith's tach to work right. The ignitor II senses coil current level and adjusts the coil. Ignitor III adds a rev limiter as well but the 6AL box has a rev limiter, I believe so the III might be duplication of effort. A stock coil for a 66 MK1A would be? Stock distributor wires would be? Stock spark plug model would be? Stock Cap would be? Would I also need the ballast resistor to make all this work or take out the guts of the unit to keep original look. Any direction with parts, originality in mind to get the best of old and new world would be greatly appreciated. Joel Martin _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 18 15:36:13 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 13:47:07 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels >>> I think they are ugly as hell. My $.02. Duke<<< I spent my teen years in the late 60's through the mid 70's looking at mostly Cragers, reverse chrome and 'kidney bean" (also called "slotted") wheels. I found Libre's to be a refreshing change. Many wheels of the late 70's through the 80's - and beyond looked like juvenile design applications off a CNC machine (and dare I say the use of "rivets" as well). While today there are infinite varieties of wheels (some very pleasing) so many look so similar that it is like picking out a "shade" of paint in the multi-hued palette of the hardware store. Perhaps I'm partial because my '73 Datsun 510 has Libre's that I find period correct and appealing. We all have our preferences and are free to like or dislike. Though I will say as time goes by I find a hidden beauty in things I took little interest in when younger (so watch out!). For my Tiger I'll likely stick with my Cosmics given their somewhat rarity and the association with the Harrington. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 18 17:04:08 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: Joel Martin , "Tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 16:50:35 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup Hi Joel, To make your tach work with either an MSD box or with Pertronix, consider having Tom Hall or me rebuild your tach using this module: http://members.shaw.ca/tsmit/tachmod/tachmod0.html Or you can do it yourself, if you want. The module has a voltage input designed to take the output pulses from the MSD box directly, and if you're just using an Pertronix distributor module then the tach module will sense its current pulses properly. There is no such thing as stock-appearing when you go to an MSD ignition. You need to run two wires directly from the MSD box to the coil, and one or two different wires from the distributor direct to the MSD box. Running the MSD's coil output wires anywhere near the distributor wire will give you grief. You may be able to use a quality stock-replacement cap and rotor with the MSD if you keep the plug gaps near OEM and keep your plugs clean, but any problems with the high voltage setup will probably cause carbon tracking in the distributor cap in short order. With the Pertronix ignitor you can look close to stock, and if you use their Flamethrower coil you can eliminate the ballast resistor. I've tested with the Ignitor 2 / Flamethrower 2 combination and it works well... the original Ignitor could leave your coil energized when the ignition was on but the engine not running, which is a bad thing. Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin > Sent: May 18, 2010 1:58 PM > To: Tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup > > Hello All, > Now thinking about the entire ignition setup on my 63/64 HiPo motor > rebuild. The goal is to keep original with as many original parts/look > as > possible for a street driven car. FoMoCo dual point distributor C30F - > 12127 - > D > > Joel Martin ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 18 17:06:06 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: "'Thomas Witt'" , Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 17:21:08 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels I have JAP wheels on my Tiger and many think they are ugly as hell too. Each to their own as the maid kissed the cow. Duke B382002037 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Witt Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2010 3:47 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels >>> I think they are ugly as hell. My $.02. Duke<<< I spent my teen years in the late 60's through the mid 70's looking at mostly Cragers, reverse chrome and 'kidney bean" (also called "slotted") wheels. I found Libre's to be a refreshing change. Many wheels of the late 70's through the 80's - and beyond looked like juvenile design applications off a CNC machine (and dare I say the use of "rivets" as well). While today there are infinite varieties of wheels (some very pleasing) so many look so similar that it is like picking out a "shade" of paint in the multi-hued palette of the hardware store. Perhaps I'm partial because my '73 Datsun 510 has Libre's that I find period correct and appealing. We all have our preferences and are free to like or dislike. Though I will say as time goes by I find a hidden beauty in things I took little interest in when younger (so watch out!). For my Tiger I'll likely stick with my Cosmics given their somewhat rarity and the association with the Harrington. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 18 18:31:08 2010 From: michael king To: "Smit, Theo" Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 09:13:59 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup Out of ineterst do the crane control boxes suffer the same issues with the tachs? -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 18 18:33:18 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: michael king Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 18:21:34 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup Most of the 'points replacement' amplifiers such as the Mallory, Lumenition, Crane, Pertronix, etc. extend the effective dwell so that the coil is being charged longer. This is good for better high-RPM performance, and since the electronic switches don't wear it's better from a maintenance point of view. However, that longer dwell changes the profile of the current pulse that comes through the little loop transformer on the back of the tach, and the OEM tach circuit either triggers inconsistently or it won't work at all. The replacement module bypasses all of the original electronics in the tach, but it uses the original current loop transformer and the meter movement, so it allows stock appearance and wiring to be used. To use it with the MSD, Jacobs or other multi-spark boxes (or a crank-trigger system, for example), you have to put in an extra wire, and you don't use the current loop transformer. Cheers, Theo From: michael king [mailto:michael.s.king@gmail.com] Sent: May 18, 2010 5:14 PM To: Smit, Theo Cc: Joel Martin; Tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup Out of ineterst do the crane control boxes suffer the same issues with the tachs? -- Regards Michael King ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 18 19:15:20 2010 From: "Kirk Smith" To: Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 16:52:30 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Libre wheels I had a set of Libre wheels in the early '70s. They had the right offset for a Tiger- I was able to run B60-13 tires all the way around without any mods. No interference or rubbing. Kirk _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 18 23:34:33 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Joel Martin'" , Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 00:36:16 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup Joel If you want a stock looking ignition just use the Pertronix or similar unit in the distributor. You can cover the wires out of the distributor with shrink tube for that 1 wire appearance. Stock coil is a Ford yellow top B6A-12029-B Stock ignition Resistor wires are Ford C3OZ-12259-H1 Stock HiPo wires are solid core, black with SX and cylinder number on each wire Stock spark plugs Autolite BF-32 for HiPo BF-42 for non HiPo Stock Distributor cap Ford B7A-12106-A Note: Your C3OF-12127-D distributor with oil port is an early style distributor; be sure to inspect the advance mechanism thoroughly. This style has many wear points at the cam plate and weights that can hang up the advance curve. The dual point distributor has no vacuum advance; vacuum advance will give you economy on the highway. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2010 3:58 PM To: Tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup Hello All, Now thinking about the entire ignition setup on my 63/64 HiPo motor rebuild. The goal is to keep original with as many original parts/look as possible for a street driven car. FoMoCo dual point distributor C30F - 12127 - D I would like to go with Petronic Ignitor with stock looking or stock coil - what ever that is suppose to be with a MSD 6AL box. I am understanding I would need the MSD Tach converter as well in order for the stock Smith's tach to work right. The ignitor II senses coil current level and adjusts the coil. Ignitor III adds a rev limiter as well but the 6AL box has a rev limiter, I believe so the III might be duplication of effort. A stock coil for a 66 MK1A would be? Stock distributor wires would be? Stock spark plug model would be? Stock Cap would be? Would I also need the ballast resistor to make all this work or take out the guts of the unit to keep original look. Any direction with parts, originality in mind to get the best of old and new world would be greatly appreciated. Joel Martin _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2879 - Release Date: 05/18/10 06:26:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 08:33:06 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: 'Joel Martin' , "Tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 09:01:32 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup If you have electronics of almost any sort on your car (including the ignition amplifier and alternator regulator), then solid core wires are very likely to give you problems. I understand the desire to have OEM appearance and a HiPo motor but if you must have solid core wires then you can't have electronic ignition or alternator regulation. And you may find that your cellphone doesn't work while you're driving either. There are modern spiral-core wires from many manufacturers that give equal or better performance to the old-school solid core stuff too, while having enough RF suppression that you can use electronics on board. Cheers, Theo ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 09:18:01 2010 From: David Sosna To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 07:24:54 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels Hi Duke: My Tiger also came with a set of JAP wheels--Tiger's gone, but the wheels remain. One of 'em has a small crack, and I've not been able to find someone locally who will weld it for me--it's magnesium or magnalume or some such, and they're concerned it'll catch fire and do a china syndrome since magnesium provides it's own oxygen for burning. The wheels are really light, but there were some concerns expressed on the list about the strength of 40 year old magnesium ( I gather it rots) and the wisdom of actually having them on the car for daily use, so I'd replaced 'em with steelies. Looks like yours are holding up well, though. I like the pattern. I saw a picture of a Healey 3000 with a set, but until you mentioned it, I didn't know of anyone else with a set, so they must be pretty rare. :-) Best Regards David Sosna wsamouce wrote: > I have JAP wheels on my Tiger and many think they are ugly as hell too. > > Each to their own as the maid kissed the cow. > > Duke > B382002037 > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5128 (20100519) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 10:02:44 2010 From: "Alvin Johnson" To: Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 10:45:13 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Clear Plastic Cleaner/Polish I recall getting an effective rear window cleaner at a boating supply place. Two squeeze bottles---one for buffing scratches, the other a polish. But I can't recall the brand name---anyone? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 10:03:49 2010 From: Peter L To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 08:00:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] chroming rec anyone know of or recommend these guys? http://gravesplating.com/ thks, peter _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 11:32:47 2010 From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com To: twojohnsons@cox.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 12:37:43 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clear Plastic Cleaner/Polish _http://marinerv.meguiars.com/product/Clear-Plastic-Control-Panels/PlastX-Cl ear-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish_ (http://marinerv.meguiars.com/product/Clear-Plastic-Control-Panels/PlastX-Clear-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish) In a message dated 5/19/2010 9:04:03 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, twojohnsons@cox.net writes: I recall getting an effective rear window cleaner at a boating supply place. Two squeeze bottles---one for buffing scratches, the other a polish. But I can't recall the brand name---anyone? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aaaglasss@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 11:33:17 2010 From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com To: twojohnsons@cox.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 12:40:02 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clear Plastic Cleaner/Polish _http://www.novuspolish.com/_ (http://www.novuspolish.com/) In a message dated 5/19/2010 9:04:03 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, twojohnsons@cox.net writes: I recall getting an effective rear window cleaner at a boating supply place. Two squeeze bottles---one for buffing scratches, the other a polish. But I can't recall the brand name---anyone? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aaaglasss@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 12:46:40 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Alvin Johnson'" , Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 13:39:58 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clear Plastic Cleaner/Polish Alvin There are probably a number of companies the make these products. I have Maguire's Clear Plastic Cleaner and Clear Plastic Polish. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alvin Johnson Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 10:45 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Clear Plastic Cleaner/Polish I recall getting an effective rear window cleaner at a boating supply place. Two squeeze bottles---one for buffing scratches, the other a polish. But I can't recall the brand name---anyone? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2881 - Release Date: 05/19/10 06:26:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 13:04:03 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: David Sosna Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 11:19:16 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels David, You are absolutely correct about the lifetime of real magnesium wheels (yellowish) and "MAG" wheels, which are generally aluminum. After very limited use they are not allowed to be used by almost all racing organization in the sports car world. I imagine the Indy League has similar, if not more stringent, rules. This has been the case for at least 20 years, or more. You can't really polish them, but you can hang them on the wall over your bar, like enthusiast bars/clubs do. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com David Sosna wrote: > Hi Duke: > My Tiger also came with a set of JAP wheels--Tiger's gone, but the > wheels remain. One of 'em has a small crack, and I've not been able > to find someone locally who will weld it for me--it's magnesium or > magnalume or some such, and they're concerned it'll catch fire and do > a china syndrome since magnesium provides it's own oxygen for burning. > The wheels are really light, but there were some concerns expressed on > the list about the strength of 40 year old magnesium ( I gather it > rots) and the wisdom of actually having them on the car for daily use, > so I'd replaced 'em with steelies. Looks like yours are holding up > well, though. > > I like the pattern. I saw a picture of a Healey 3000 with a set, but > until you mentioned it, I didn't know of anyone else with a set, so > they must be pretty rare. > :-) > > Best Regards > David Sosna _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 13:42:28 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: "'David Sosna'" , Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 13:46:17 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels Hey David, I believe I have the non-magnesium wheels. Some time back I came across info on the JAP wheels and mine did not have the markings of the racing magnesium wheels. It a good thing as I am able to still use them. I sure would love to find some center caps. I have spinners right now but would like to have the original center caps. Do you have some that you can take a picture of as I don't even know what I am looking for? Duke -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Sosna Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 9:25 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels Hi Duke: My Tiger also came with a set of JAP wheels--Tiger's gone, but the wheels remain. One of 'em has a small crack, and I've not been able to find someone locally who will weld it for me--it's magnesium or magnalume or some such, and they're concerned it'll catch fire and do a china syndrome since magnesium provides it's own oxygen for burning. The wheels are really light, but there were some concerns expressed on the list about the strength of 40 year old magnesium ( I gather it rots) and the wisdom of actually having them on the car for daily use, so I'd replaced 'em with steelies. Looks like yours are holding up well, though. I like the pattern. I saw a picture of a Healey 3000 with a set, but until you mentioned it, I didn't know of anyone else with a set, so they must be pretty rare. :-) Best Regards David Sosna wsamouce wrote: > I have JAP wheels on my Tiger and many think they are ugly as hell too. > > Each to their own as the maid kissed the cow. > > Duke > B382002037 > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5128 (20100519) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 13:44:21 2010 From: "Robin Young" To: "'Alvin Johnson'" , Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 14:58:19 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clear Plastic Cleaner/Polish Alvin asked: I recall getting an effective rear window cleaner at a boating supply place. Two squeeze bottles---one for buffing scratches, the other a polish. But I can't recall the brand name---anyone? Alvin, it sounds like a Micro-Mesh maintenance kit. The main product line is used extensively on aircraft "glass" to remove scratches in windows and canopies. For heavy scratches, abrasive sheets begin at 1500 and incrementally go as high as 20,000 grit for polishing. Several companies sell it and you can order on line from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. RObin _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 15:02:09 2010 From: "Buck Trippel" To: "Steve Laifman" , "David Sosna" Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 13:15:39 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels I own a couple of the original LAT HSC mags built by Doanne Spencer for Rootes in 1965. Calling them "rotten" would understate how bad mine are. Crack testing showed so many cracks that I won't use them to drive to the market. As Steve suggests, they sit on a shelf & wait for someone to ask to take a look or be hauled out for a static display at a TU. Dave Stone had a set at Monterey a few years ago on the HSC Tiger that someone had polished to a mirror finish. They looked great. bt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Laifman" To: "David Sosna" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 11:19 AM Subject: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels > David, > > You are absolutely correct about the lifetime of real magnesium wheels > (yellowish) and "MAG" wheels, which are generally aluminum. After very > limited use they are not allowed to be used by almost all racing > organization in the sports car world. I imagine the Indy League has > similar, if not more stringent, rules. > > This has been the case for at least 20 years, or more. > > You can't really polish them, but you can hang them on the wall over > your bar, like enthusiast bars/clubs do. > > > Steve > > Steve Laifman > > Editor > > http://TigersUnited.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 15:34:34 2010 From: Tom Parker To: "Smit, Theo" Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 16:52:31 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup Theo, et al, I just got off the phone with Peter Bayer at Nisonger Instruments. Here's a summary of the conversation regarding the Jaeger Tach: The tachometer WILL NOT WORK with electronic ignition (Caps mine). Nisonger offers a conversion service to upgrade the tachometer so it will work with both points and electronic ignition. They test with Pertronics and MSD ignitions (which doesn't mean it will or won't work with other brands.) The price for rebuilding the tach and installing the electronic ignition conversion is $275.00. They don't offer a stand-alone conversion. This may or may not have anything to do with the problems with erratic readings at low revolutions, but, then, it may. Tom On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 10:01 AM, Smit, Theo wrote: > If you have electronics of almost any sort on your car (including the > ignition > amplifier and alternator regulator), then solid core wires are very likely > to > give you problems. I understand the desire to have OEM appearance and a > HiPo > motor but if you must have solid core wires then you can't have electronic > ignition or alternator regulation. And you may find that your cellphone > doesn't work while you're driving either. > > There are modern spiral-core wires from many manufacturers that give equal > or > better performance to the old-school solid core stuff too, while having > enough > RF suppression that you can use electronics on board. > > Cheers, > Theo > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > --- > This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the > sole > use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, > please > be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail > or > any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, > please contact the sender and delete all copies. > > Thank you for your cooperation. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 16:14:24 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: Tom Parker Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 16:19:31 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup Hi Tom, In about 2000 or 2001 I developed a circuit board to install in the Tiger tach, to fix the OEM circuit's issues with the electronic ignitions and to allow it to work with MSD, other multi-spark ignition systems, or distributorless ignitions. Since then, Tom Hall and I have converted somewhere around 150 tachs for Tigers, Alpines, MG's, Healey's, Volvo's, and other LBCs with Smiths/Jaeger instruments. The module has been successfully interfaced with MSD, Jacobs, Buick, and Megasquirt systems, as well as Pertronix, Lumenition, Lucas, Mallory, Accel, and other points-replacement distributor sensors. I test with any system that a client sends me, if there is any doubt about whether a particular distributor/coil arrangement will properly trigger the tach. What we do is not intended to compete with the services of Nissonger or MoMa. Tom and I don't repair cosmetic damage to the tach. If you have some electronics soldering skills and the ability to calibrate a tach, then you can just buy the module and do your own installation. Best regards, Theo ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 17:29:30 2010 From: "Would U.Believe" To: Tom Parker , "Smit, Theo" Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 18:21:19 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup I don't understand how that's possible because I have Pertronix in my distributor and my tach works fine. Must be an anomaly? MGD On 5/19/10 4:52 PM, "Tom Parker" wrote: > Theo, et al, > > I just got off the phone with Peter Bayer at Nisonger Instruments. Here's a > summary of the conversation regarding the Jaeger Tach: > > The tachometer WILL NOT WORK with electronic ignition (Caps mine). Nisonger > offers a conversion service to upgrade the tachometer so it will work with > both points and electronic ignition. They test with Pertronics and MSD > ignitions (which doesn't mean it will or won't work with other brands.) > > The price for rebuilding the tach and installing the electronic ignition > conversion is $275.00. They don't offer a stand-alone conversion. > > This may or may not have anything to do with the problems with erratic > readings at low revolutions, but, then, it may. > > Tom > > > > On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 10:01 AM, Smit, Theo wrote: > >> If you have electronics of almost any sort on your car (including the >> ignition >> amplifier and alternator regulator), then solid core wires are very likely >> to >> give you problems. I understand the desire to have OEM appearance and a >> HiPo >> motor but if you must have solid core wires then you can't have electronic >> ignition or alternator regulation. And you may find that your cellphone >> doesn't work while you're driving either. >> >> There are modern spiral-core wires from many manufacturers that give equal >> or >> better performance to the old-school solid core stuff too, while having >> enough >> RF suppression that you can use electronics on board. >> >> Cheers, >> Theo >> >> >> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> --- >> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the >> sole >> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, >> please >> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail >> or >> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, >> please contact the sender and delete all copies. >> >> Thank you for your cooperation. >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 17:29:42 2010 From: "Would U.Believe" To: Buck Trippel , Steve Laifman Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 18:24:36 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels There are going to be a whole lot of Porsche 911 engines disintegrating if that's the case. They were magnesium until the 3.0 liter engine came out in somewhere around 1980. This is the first I've heard about magnesium "rotting". On 5/19/10 4:15 PM, "Buck Trippel" wrote: > I own a couple of the original LAT HSC mags built by Doanne Spencer for > Rootes in 1965. > > Calling them "rotten" would understate how bad mine are. Crack testing > showed so many cracks that I won't use them to drive to the market. > > As Steve suggests, they sit on a shelf & wait for someone to ask to take a > look or be hauled out for a static display at a TU. > > Dave Stone had a set at Monterey a few years ago on the HSC Tiger that > someone had polished to a mirror finish. They looked great. > > bt > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Steve Laifman" > To: "David Sosna" > Cc: > Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 11:19 AM > Subject: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels > > >> David, >> >> You are absolutely correct about the lifetime of real magnesium wheels >> (yellowish) and "MAG" wheels, which are generally aluminum. After very >> limited use they are not allowed to be used by almost all racing >> organization in the sports car world. I imagine the Indy League has >> similar, if not more stringent, rules. >> >> This has been the case for at least 20 years, or more. >> >> You can't really polish them, but you can hang them on the wall over >> your bar, like enthusiast bars/clubs do. >> >> >> Steve >> >> Steve Laifman >> >> Editor >> >> http://TigersUnited.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 18:46:15 2010 From: "Scott Hutchinson" To: , , Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 19:37:44 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup Mine works just fine as well. Pertronix in a dual point ford. Scott Hutchinson Director of Operations NetJets Large Aircraft Office 860.292.1191 Mobile 843.290.2805 *** ******* This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 18:49:17 2010 From: michael king To: "Would U.Believe" Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 09:52:04 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels On 20 May 2010 08:24, Would U.Believe wrote: > There are going to be a whole lot of Porsche 911 engines disintegrating if > that's the case. They were magnesium until the 3.0 liter engine came out > in > somewhere around 1980. This is the first I've heard about magnesium > "rotting". Mauro Magnesium wheels are well known for turning porus "rotting" they become very brittle and fracture. As for other magnesium parts.. its not an uncomon issue on magnesium sumps. -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 18:52:03 2010 From: David T Johnson To: 'David Sosna' , Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 17:02:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels I had a set of JA Pierce (JAP) MAGNA wheels. The MAGNA meant they magnesium/aluminum. I sold them to Uncle Wally who used them on his autocross Alpine. He loved the wheels and knew quite a bit on their history. I wish he had written it down. Tiger Tom has two sets. One on his race Tiger and another on trailer which towed it. Log at the picure of his Tiger towing a Tiger. You'll see the Magna's I found a set of plastic chrome caps from American racing. I pealed the decal off and weather strip glued them to the wheel. The I wrote CAT and got 4 deals, Cut out the center and stuck them to the caps. Wally said the glue held great and he never lost a cap. TT was always after where he got the caps. Used the money to buy my LAT-9s. --- On Wed, 5/19/10, wsamouce wrote: From: wsamouce Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels To: "'David Sosna'" , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 6:46 PM Hey David, I believe I have the non-magnesium wheels. Some time back I came across info on the JAP wheels and mine did not have the markings of the racing magnesium wheels. It a good thing as I am able to still use them. I sure would love to find some center caps. I have spinners right now but would like to have the original center caps. Do you have some that you can take a picture of as I don't even know what I am looking for? Duke -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Sosna Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 9:25 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels Hi Duke: My Tiger also came with a set of JAP wheels--Tiger's gone, but the wheels remain. One of 'em has a small crack, and I've not been able to find someone locally who will weld it for me--it's magnesium or magnalume or some such, and they're concerned it'll catch fire and do a china syndrome since magnesium provides it's own oxygen for burning. The wheels are really light, but there were some concerns expressed on the list about the strength of 40 year old magnesium ( I gather it rots) and the wisdom of actually having them on the car for daily use, so I'd replaced 'em with steelies. Looks like yours are holding up well, though. I like the pattern. I saw a picture of a Healey 3000 with a set, but until you mentioned it, I didn't know of anyone else with a set, so they must be pretty rare. :-) Best Regards David Sosna wsamouce wrote: > I have JAP wheels on my Tiger and many think they are ugly as hell too. > > Each to their own as the maid kissed the cow. > > Duke > B382002037 > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5128 (20100519) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 19:34:11 2010 From: "Would U.Believe" To: michael king Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 20:33:48 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels Michael, The Porsche 911 air cooled engine was a dry sump engine; the whole case was made of magnesium. In all my experience with Porsche, over many years, I have never, ever heard of an engine case 3rotting2 or breaking randomly. Certainly, though, magnesium has a much greater tendency to fracture before some other metals and alloys, but it would take some doing to get that to happen even to a 40 year old magnesium engine case. Having said that, I know the Porsche magnesium engine cases can definitely corrode and become pitted badly, but only when completely neglected with water sitting on or in them for a very long time. The reason Porsche eventually moved to aluminum engine cases was only because the magnesium cases, which started out with a 2 liter displacement tended to warp increasingly more (and leak oil) as the engine displacements grew from 2.2, 2.4 to 2.7 liters, increasing the engines9 heat generation with each step up. I would never have guessed it, but aluminum cases are stiffer than the magnesium cases. Anyway -- back to wheels -- could it be that real magnesium wheels were a bit porous to begin with, even when new, which is part of the reason why the old mag wheels needed tubes in the day (beyond the bead design)? On 5/19/10 7:52 PM, "michael king" wrote: > > > On 20 May 2010 08:24, Would U.Believe wrote: >> There are going to be a whole lot of Porsche 911 engines disintegrating if >> that's the case. They were magnesium until the 3.0 liter engine came out in >> somewhere around 1980. This is the first I've heard about magnesium >> "rotting". > > Mauro > > Magnesium wheels are well known for turning porus "rotting" they become very > brittle and fracture. As for other magnesium parts.. its not an uncomon issue > on magnesium sumps. > _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 19:34:52 2010 From: michael king To: "Would U.Believe" Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 10:38:06 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels My comments on sumps was more in reference to issues i know of with alfas, but i am aware of the pitting on porsche motors.. long and the short of it, amgnesium wheels are very light and great when new.. they were used for racing as they are seen as consumables.. they are not a good long term option on ars.. new wheels might be better but any of the wheels from the 60-70's there wil be issues. On 20 May 2010 10:33, Would U.Believe wrote: > Michael, > > The Porsche 911 air cooled engine was a dry sump engine; the whole case was > made of magnesium. In all my experience with Porsche, over many years, I > have never, ever heard of an engine case rotting or breaking randomly. > Certainly, though, magnesium has a much greater tendency to fracture before > some other metals and alloys, but it would take some doing to get that to > happen even to a 40 year old magnesium engine case. Having said that, I > know the Porsche magnesium engine cases can definitely corrode and become > pitted badly, but only when completely neglected with water sitting on or in > them for a very long time. The reason Porsche eventually moved to aluminum > engine cases was only because the magnesium cases, which started out with a > 2 liter displacement tended to warp increasingly more (and leak oil) as the > engine displacements grew from 2.2, 2.4 to 2.7 liters, increasing the > engines heat generation with each step up. I would never have guessed it, > but aluminum cases are stiffer than the magnesium cases. > > Anyway -- back to wheels -- could it be that real magnesium wheels were a > bit porous to begin with, even when new, which is part of the reason why the > old mag wheels needed tubes in the day (beyond the bead design)? > > > On 5/19/10 7:52 PM, "michael king" wrote: > > > > On 20 May 2010 08:24, Would U.Believe wrote: > > There are going to be a whole lot of Porsche 911 engines disintegrating if > that's the case. They were magnesium until the 3.0 liter engine came out > in > somewhere around 1980. This is the first I've heard about magnesium > "rotting". > > > Mauro > > Magnesium wheels are well known for turning porus "rotting" they become > very brittle and fracture. As for other magnesium parts.. its not an uncomon > issue on magnesium sumps. > > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 19:36:31 2010 From: David Sosna To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 17:46:54 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels Hi Duke: I didn't know they made 'em in aluminum. I didn't know mine were magnesium until I took the cracked wheel to Smitty here in San Diego to see if he would weld it. His response was: "That's Magnesium. I'm not gonna weld that. If it catches fire, it'll burn right through the concrete." He could tell just by looking at the material. It weighs about 10 pounds with the center cap. The aluminum 14" O.E.M. hollow spoke rims on my Miata weigh about 10.8 lbs, so I have my doubts about the JAP's being magnesium, but short of trying to set fire to one of the JAP wheels, I've no idea how to tell whether they're aluminum, magnesium or neutronium, so for now I'll figure Smitty's right. Anybody out there got a 13" aluminum Tiger wheel that you can stick on a scale? I only have the one center cap and I'm pretty sure it isn't original. Looks like it was done on a lathe. The thickness seems to be about 0.061 inches, and the sides have a taper. Which is why I had trouble measuring the thickness. :-) I'll find my camera and send you photos. Best Regards David wsamouce wrote: > Hey David, > > I believe I have the non-magnesium wheels. Some time back I came across > info on the JAP wheels and mine did not have the markings of the racing > magnesium wheels. It a good thing as I am able to still use them. > > I sure would love to find some center caps. I have spinners right now but > would like to have the original center caps. Do you have some that you can > take a picture of as I don't even know what I am looking for? > > Duke > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of David Sosna > Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 9:25 AM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels > > Hi Duke: > My Tiger also came with a set of JAP wheels--Tiger's gone, but the > wheels remain. One of 'em has a small crack, and I've not been able to > find someone locally who will weld it for me--it's magnesium or > magnalume or some such, and they're concerned it'll catch fire and do a > china syndrome since magnesium provides it's own oxygen for burning. > > The wheels are really light, but there were some concerns expressed on > the list about the strength of 40 year old magnesium ( I gather it rots) > and the wisdom of actually having them on the car for daily use, so I'd > replaced 'em with steelies. Looks like yours are holding up well, though. > > I like the pattern. I saw a picture of a Healey 3000 with a set, but > until you mentioned it, I didn't know of anyone else with a set, so they > must be pretty rare. > :-) > > Best Regards > David Sosna > > wsamouce wrote: > >> I have JAP wheels on my Tiger and many think they are ugly as hell too. >> >> Each to their own as the maid kissed the cow. >> >> Duke >> B382002037 >> >> >> >> > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature > database 5128 (20100519) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5130 (20100519) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5130 (20100519) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 20:16:06 2010 From: michael king To: David T Johnson Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 10:55:40 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels Those wheels are still on that SV withits new owner.. have heard lots about that car, apparently THE autocross sunbeam On 20 May 2010 10:02, David T Johnson wrote: > I had a set of JA Pierce (JAP) MAGNA wheels. The MAGNA meant they > magnesium/aluminum. I sold them to Uncle Wally who used them on his > autocross Alpine. He loved the wheels and knew quite a bit on their > history. I wish he had written it down. Tiger Tom has two sets. One on > his race Tiger and another on trailer which towed it. Log at the picure > of his Tiger towing a Tiger. You'll see the Magna's > > I found a set of plastic chrome caps from American racing. I pealed the > decal off and weather strip glued them to the wheel. The I wrote CAT > and got 4 deals, Cut out the center and stuck them to the caps. Wally > said the glue held great and he never lost a cap. TT was always after > where he got the caps. > > Used the money to buy my LAT-9s. > > --- On Wed, 5/19/10, wsamouce wrote: > > > From: wsamouce > Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels > To: "'David Sosna'" , tigers@autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 6:46 PM > > > Hey David, > > I believe I have the non-magnesium wheels. Some time back I came across > info on the JAP wheels and mine did not have the markings of the racing > magnesium wheels. It a good thing as I am able to still use them. > > I sure would love to find some center caps. I have spinners right now but > would like to have the original center caps. Do you have some that you can > take a picture of as I don't even know what I am looking for? > > Duke > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of David Sosna > Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 9:25 AM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels > > Hi Duke: > My Tiger also came with a set of JAP wheels--Tiger's gone, but the > wheels remain. One of 'em has a small crack, and I've not been able to > find someone locally who will weld it for me--it's magnesium or > magnalume or some such, and they're concerned it'll catch fire and do a > china syndrome since magnesium provides it's own oxygen for burning. > > The wheels are really light, but there were some concerns expressed on > the list about the strength of 40 year old magnesium ( I gather it rots) > and the wisdom of actually having them on the car for daily use, so I'd > replaced 'em with steelies. Looks like yours are holding up well, though. > > I like the pattern. I saw a picture of a Healey 3000 with a set, but > until you mentioned it, I didn't know of anyone else with a set, so they > must be pretty rare. > :-) > > Best Regards > David Sosna > > wsamouce wrote: > > I have JAP wheels on my Tiger and many think they are ugly as hell too. > > > > Each to their own as the maid kissed the cow. > > > > Duke > > B382002037 > > > > > > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature > database 5128 (20100519) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014@yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 21:54:30 2010 From: Tom Parker To: "Would U.Believe" Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 22:30:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup The Jaeger tach is an inductive instrument; that's what the little loop on the back is... a one turn coil. If you have multiple pulses you can get erratic behavior at low rpm's. I can't say from personal experience whether it'll work on an electronic ignition; mine was stock when it ran. Still, what Peter told me makes sense, and it would appear Theo ran into a similar problem because he designed a solution also. So... you can try it or not. If your tach works, good for you! If not, and if you want to use Nisonger, the price is $275. Tom On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 6:21 PM, Would U.Believe wrote: > I don't understand how that's possible because I have Pertronix in my > distributor and my tach works fine. Must be an anomaly? MGD > > > On 5/19/10 4:52 PM, "Tom Parker" wrote: > > > Theo, et al, > > > > I just got off the phone with Peter Bayer at Nisonger Instruments. Here's > a > > summary of the conversation regarding the Jaeger Tach: > > > > The tachometer WILL NOT WORK with electronic ignition (Caps mine). > Nisonger > > offers a conversion service to upgrade the tachometer so it will work > with > > both points and electronic ignition. They test with Pertronics and MSD > > ignitions (which doesn't mean it will or won't work with other brands.) > > > > The price for rebuilding the tach and installing the electronic ignition > > conversion is $275.00. They don't offer a stand-alone conversion. > > > > This may or may not have anything to do with the problems with erratic > > readings at low revolutions, but, then, it may. > > > > Tom > > > > > > > > On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 10:01 AM, Smit, Theo >wrote: > > > >> If you have electronics of almost any sort on your car (including the > >> ignition > >> amplifier and alternator regulator), then solid core wires are very > likely > >> to > >> give you problems. I understand the desire to have OEM appearance and a > >> HiPo > >> motor but if you must have solid core wires then you can't have > electronic > >> ignition or alternator regulation. And you may find that your cellphone > >> doesn't work while you're driving either. > >> > >> There are modern spiral-core wires from many manufacturers that give > equal > >> or > >> better performance to the old-school solid core stuff too, while having > >> enough > >> RF suppression that you can use electronics on board. > >> > >> Cheers, > >> Theo > >> > >> > >> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >> --- > >> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for > the > >> sole > >> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, > >> please > >> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this > e-mail > >> or > >> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, > >> please contact the sender and delete all copies. > >> > >> Thank you for your cooperation. > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Tigers@autox.team.net > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Tigers@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 21:56:29 2010 From: Steven Silverstein To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 22:43:22 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Magnesium wheels The Miata wheels are really well designed in terms of being light weight and strong. I remember one article on the Miata which chided owners who changed to after-market wheels on the Miata - the complaint from the writer was the after-market wheels were typically much heavier than the OEM. I think wheel design in the 60's was a hit or miss proposal since they didn't have CAD analysis tools that they have today to minimize weight and maintain strength. So, often the wheels from the 60's are heavier than needed. If you think you have magnesium then polish it up in an area. Wet it and leave it in a humid area. Within a week it will take dull sheen and surface feels chalky. Most magnesium wheels, neglected, will take on a dull sheen and an 1000 grit sand paper feel on the surface (lower grit number for the really neglected!) Aluminum doesn't seem to take an oxidation nearly as quick. Again, Magnesium will corrode and pit in a humid environment. As mentioned the inside of the rim can be worse than the outside. Often the tires become deflated since magnesium can be porous.. and water enters the inside of the tire and the process of corrosion accelerates. It can even be a factor of the moisture of the air filling the tire. Steve _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 19 21:57:17 2010 From: Tod Brown To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 23:13:07 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ignition/Coil/Tach Setup The stock tach from my Tiger worked very nicely with the Pertronix ignition in a converted dual-point Mallory distributor. Of course, the accuracy of the tach probably left something to be desired after 40 years, so I replaced it with a tach out of a Series IV Alpine which has a face which matches the other instruments. I had Tom Hall do the electronic conversion for about $100 less than what Nisonger wants. Works beautifully and it gives me a redline (6000 IIRC) somewhat higher than what you see on the stock Tiger tach which is fine for my engine with the upgraded cam. At the same time, I replaced the stock coil with a Pertronix one and did away with the ballast resistor. This setup works very well for a mildly upgraded engine. If you are using a higher-performance engine, the electronic conversion offers an input for solid state ignitions as well, as Theo has noted. If you want to be really authentic, Jim Armstrong can offer a supply of original Ford points and condensers from his collection. Jim also offers a DIY on "Filing your own points". Cheers, Tod B382002384 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 20 00:46:51 2010 From: David Sosna To: Mark J Bradakis Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 22:39:58 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium wheels Thanks, Steve--I'll give it a try. Looking at what you wrote below, I wonder if that's why the P.O. had installed inner tubes. I had put it down to a hot rodders' trick from 'the day' to create stiffer sidewalls on the high profile tires in order to help cornering, but now I'm wondering if he kept losing air as well. Time to get out the polish (grin). Best Regards David Steven Silverstein wrote: > Often the tires become deflated since magnesium can be porous.. and > water enters the inside of the tire and the process of corrosion > accelerates. It can even be a factor of the moisture of the air > filling the tire. > > > > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5130 (20100519) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 20 01:15:49 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 23:06:45 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] ARE Libre wheels >>>His (Smitty's) response was: "That's Magnesium. I'm not gonna weld that. If it catches fire, it'll burn right through the concrete."<<< I remember in high school we had an aluminum smelt. Kids would bring in cans and melt them down to make "T" shifter handles. One day the crucible had a strange glow. The teacher got out the tongs and throw the offending metal in a water tank. 15 minutes later I had to get to another class, but it was still burning away when I left. The metal of course was Magnesium. It truly was like a miniature "China Syndrome." Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 20 07:35:33 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Would U.Believe'" , "'michael king'" Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 08:23:31 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels I remember a friend of mine buying a set of Mag wheels plus the store sold him some spray cans to paint and seal the wheels to air leaks. Yes I would say that Mag wheels were porous. I would also think that the manufacturing process could control the porosity but I have no experience with magnesium. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U.Believe Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 8:34 PM To: michael king Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels Anyway -- back to wheels -- could it be that real magnesium wheels were a bit porous to begin with, even when new, which is part of the reason why the old mag wheels needed tubes in the day (beyond the bead design)? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 20 09:03:36 2010 From: To: David Sosna Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 9:49:22 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium wheels David & Steve: I've got a set of Silverstones for my Tiger. They are, of course, really cool period wheels but, with all the info that's been flying around about magnesium wheels in the last few years, I've kept them just for show. I think I've only driven the car once with them on it and had no problems, but I'd sure hate to write off my Tiger because I had an old magnesium wheel break at speed. True enough, the wheels look fantastic on the Tiger, but they're not worth using and possibly losing the car over. By the way, the only way I could ever get them to hold air was to run innertubes in the tires. Otherwise, given a sufficient amount of time, the air just bleeds out through the wheels. My .02 worth, Andy Walker Edmond, OK B382001600LRXFE TAC #740 B9006857LRX ---- David Sosna wrote: > Thanks, Steve--I'll give it a try. > Looking at what you wrote below, I wonder if that's why the P.O. had > installed inner tubes. I had put it down to a hot rodders' trick from > 'the day' to create stiffer sidewalls on the high profile tires in order > to help cornering, but now I'm wondering if he kept losing air as well. > > Time to get out the polish (grin). > > Best Regards > David _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 20 10:40:54 2010 From: "Scott Hutchinson" To: Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 11:53:40 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium wheels Magnesium wheels used to be fairly common on transport category aircraft. They are light and strong. I only know of one wheel fire, but I am sure there have been many more. 1991 Nigeria Airways DC-8 with a load of Pilgrims left Jeddah. One of the eight main tires was underinflated (each truck has four). The tire next to it failed about five hundred feet into the take off roll. The under inflated one failed shortly there after. This caused the remnants to drag on the ground during the roll. The Captain, who was monitoring the takeoff while the First Officer conducted it, asked the FO if he was dragging the brakes. The FO said he was not and the takeoff continued. Liftoff speed of an -8 must be somewhere around 185 mph. The aircraft achieved flight and retracted the landing gear. Unknown to the crew the wheels, tires and brakes were on fire on the affected main gear. Magnesium burns rather hotly. It breached the center fuel tank and cabin almost immediately and the lead flight attendant informed the cockpit crew. The Captain instructed the FO to put the landing gear down and declare an emergency. Unfortunately there are no wheel well fire lights on a DC-8 or they would have known sooner. The aircraft turned towards the airport and the cabin crew began to fight the fire that had now breached the floor in the main cabin. The crew struggled to fly the aircraft as the fire had burned through the hydraulic lines which carry the fluid that powers the flight controls. The aircraft was able to circle the airport and establish on final approach before the heat melted the main wing spar and it failed. Total loss of aircraft and crew. Scott Hutchinson Director of Operations NetJets Large Aircraft O. 860.292.1191 M. 843.290.2805 *** ******* This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 20 13:58:20 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: "Would U.Believe" Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 11:21:05 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels Mauro, I have had a lot of experience with the Porsche, having owned a new 1959 356 then sold it for a new 1966 2.0 L 911S. As I recall, the 911 cylinder walls were dimpled to hold oil, and chrome plated for long wear life. Yes, the crank case was a bit "yellow". I had to sell the car after it was 10 years old due to a relocation across the country, and it was as strong as ever. My son was still quite young (see "My Life with Cars" http://tigersunited.com/articles/sl-mc/SteveLaifman.asp Have your sound on, lots of good music! As far as "rotting" is concerned, this is an extreme misuse of the word. Steel rusts (oxidize), as do aluminum and magnesium. Magnesium is much more susceptible to metal fatigue, causing early failure. Fatigue is the condition of sudden failure to to work-hardening of the material. Even steel is susceptible, but after a great many more cycles. This is why they have limited race life. All the other materials are subject to this, but at many, many more cycles. You can see this happening if you bend and unbend a wire coat hanger. After just a few cycles of extreme bending, it breaks in your hand. Mostly through work-hardening, rather than fatigue, but a similar principle. Oxidation is a normal response for these materials (including steel, where it is called "rust"). The only thing I know of that has unlimited life is the unending hope for better things. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Would U.Believe wrote: > Michael, > > The Porsche 911 air cooled engine was a dry sump engine; the whole > case was made of magnesium. In all my experience with Porsche, over > many years, I have never, ever heard of an engine case "rotting" or > breaking randomly. Certainly, though, magnesium has a much greater > tendency to fracture before some other metals and alloys, but it would > take some doing to get that to happen even to a 40 year old magnesium > engine case. Having said that, I know the Porsche magnesium engine > cases can definitely corrode and become pitted badly, but only when > completely neglected with water sitting on or in them for a very long > time. The reason Porsche eventually moved to aluminum engine cases > was only because the magnesium cases, which started out with a 2 > liter displacement tended to warp increasingly more (and leak oil) as > the engine displacements grew from 2.2, 2.4 to 2.7 liters, increasing > the engines' heat generation with each step up. I would never have > guessed it, but aluminum cases are stiffer than the magnesium cases. > > Anyway -- back to wheels -- could it be that real magnesium wheels > were a bit porous to begin with, even when new, which is part of the > reason why the old mag wheels needed tubes in the day (beyond the bead > design)? > > > On 5/19/10 7:52 PM, "michael king" wrote: > > > > On 20 May 2010 08:24, Would U.Believe wrote: > > There are going to be a whole lot of Porsche 911 engines > disintegrating if > that's the case. They were magnesium until the 3.0 liter > engine came out in > somewhere around 1980. This is the first I've heard about > magnesium > "rotting". > > > Mauro > > Magnesium wheels are well known for turning porus "rotting" they > become very brittle and fracture. As for other magnesium parts.. > its not an uncomon issue on magnesium sumps. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 20 21:02:51 2010 From: "Robert Jaarsma" To: Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 22:13:09 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Car Covers I am in need of a car cover for my Tiger. Mainly inside, but occasionally outside during downpours at meets, nights at meets, etc.. Never for long outside storage. At Sunbeam Specialties I believe $165+shipping. Rick's I would assume has a better fit. On EBay I see prices from $29.95 to $265.95 or so. Any advise about does or don'ts appreciated. Robert _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 20 22:52:59 2010 From: "Bob Dixon" To: "Robert Jaarsma" , Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 22:23:44 -0600 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Car Covers Personally, I think you would be happy going through Rick. His stuff is top-notch. I think you would be throwing money away going through ebay. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Jaarsma" To: Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 8:13 PM Subject: [Tigers] Car Covers >I am in need of a car cover for my Tiger. Mainly inside, but > occasionally outside during downpours at meets, nights at meets, etc.. > Never for long outside storage. > At Sunbeam Specialties I believe $165+shipping. Rick's I would assume > has a better fit. > On EBay I see prices from $29.95 to $265.95 or so. Any advise about does > or don'ts appreciated. > Robert > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobdixon@frii.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 21 06:26:55 2010 From: Paul R Sheahan To: tigers@autox.team.net, Robert Jaarsma Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 04:35:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Car Covers Robert, Buy your car cover from Rick at Sunbeam Specialties or Curt at Classic Sunbeam. Support the guys that do such a great job supporting us. Paul Paul R Sheahan --- On Thu, 5/20/10, Robert Jaarsma wrote: From: Robert Jaarsma Subject: [Tigers] Car Covers To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thursday, May 20, 2010, 10:13 PM I am in need of a car cover for my Tiger. Mainly inside, but occasionally outside during downpours at meets, nights at meets, etc.. Never for long outside storage. At Sunbeam Specialties I believe $165+shipping. Rick's I would assume has a better fit. On EBay I see prices from $29.95 to $265.95 or so. Any advise about does or don'ts appreciated. Robert _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sunbeamtiger@prodigy.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 21 12:06:16 2010 From: H2Otor@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 13:19:16 EDT Subject: [Tigers] JAP MAGNA wheels and information I purchased a new set of JAP wheels for my Tiger in 1968 and used them continually on the car in the summer. I drove the car for 100,000 miles until I restored it in 1993. I never had any problems with cracks with these wheels and never bounced them off any curbs. I also saved the 3 sheet sales brochure when I purchased these wheels from the MOTORING SHOP in LA JOLLA CALF in 1968. They were available for almost any British car in sizes of 10, 12",13" 14" and 15". For the Tigers you could purchase the 13' wheels in widths from 5.0 inches wide to 10" wide in 0.5 increments. Also the center caps and lug nuts were priced at 90 cents each, the 5.0" wide wheels were $45.00 each, how times have changed. If anyone wants a picture of the JAP wheels with the original caps and lug nuts or a scan of the JAP sales brochure E-mail me. I only know how the send them to you as an attachment . John Watertor _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 21 13:21:47 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Robert Jaarsma Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 11:19:47 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Car Covers Robert, Many years ago I purchased a Tiger car cover from Rick. At that time it was of superior materials and construction. I would not be able to say, though, how it performs in cold weather. It is of a light weight silvery material, but sturdy. The shininess (reflectivity) keeps the car interior cool, as well. I believe it was custom produced for Rick by a cover manufacturer (Robbins?). Easy to fold, store in the trunk in a small area, put on and take off. I still have it today, and its been a long time. I have the standard higher priced car cover for my 2005 T-Bird. Heavy, hard to fold/unfold, and takes up too much room in the trunk. Of course the T-Bird is Jaguar size, not Tiger size. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Robert Jaarsma wrote: > I am in need of a car cover for my Tiger. Mainly inside, but > occasionally outside during downpours at meets, nights at meets, etc.. > Never for long outside storage. > At Sunbeam Specialties I believe $165+shipping. Rick's I would assume > has a better fit. > On EBay I see prices from $29.95 to $265.95 or so. Any advise about does > or don'ts appreciated. > Robert _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 21 13:23:17 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Tiger's Den Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 11:48:08 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] The Red Toi As you may already know, I have posted some pictures of the "Red Toi" (my license number) Sebring sports car that my son and I put together. These are in the article: http://tigersunited.com/articles/sl-mc/SteveLaifman.asp on Page(s) 5 & 6 (sound on!) In addition, Jay posted some additional pictures, some recent, on this web page: http://www.nationalsterling.org/ownerspages/JayLaifman.html Click on each picture to magnify. This is the car I was driving when I sold my 1966 Mustang GT Convertible and bought the Tiger. -- Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 21 15:52:18 2010 From: Rollright@aol.com To: tigers@Autox.Team.Net Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 17:13:01 EDT Subject: [Tigers] bumper chroming Hello, I've got two extra sets (enough for my friend Gary's car and mine) of bumpers. I'd like to know what the going rate is, and the name of some good shops that you folks in Tiger-land have used recently. The chrome plating shops in this area seem to have evaporated. (I happen to know that Tod Brown paints his with dull silver rattle-can paint and coats the final product with baby seal blubber for that Maine coastal shine. This is not what I'm looking for.) Best regards, Jim Armstrong Marblehead, MA _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 21 17:32:53 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: , Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 18:16:59 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] JAP MAGNA wheels and information Some very interesting info John just sent me... Per the sales brochures, JAP Magna wheels are LM9 cast aluminum. "LM9 cast aluminum will stand 16% greater elongation that magnesium". The JAP MAGNA Mk2 wheels were "For Competition use. Your choice of precision gravity-cast LM9 Aluminum or Magnesium". They look nothing like the JAP MAGNA wheels. So I am 100% sure my wheels are not magnesium. Duke B382002037 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of H2Otor@aol.com Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 12:19 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] JAP MAGNA wheels and information I purchased a new set of JAP wheels for my Tiger in 1968 and used them continually on the car in the summer. I drove the car for 100,000 miles until I restored it in 1993. I never had any problems with cracks with these wheels and never bounced them off any curbs. I also saved the 3 sheet sales brochure when I purchased these wheels from the MOTORING SHOP in LA JOLLA CALF in 1968. They were available for almost any British car in sizes of 10, 12",13" 14" and 15". For the Tigers you could purchase the 13' wheels in widths from 5.0 inches wide to 10" wide in 0.5 increments. Also the center caps and lug nuts were priced at 90 cents each, the 5.0" wide wheels were $45.00 each, how times have changed. If anyone wants a picture of the JAP wheels with the original caps and lug nuts or a scan of the JAP sales brochure E-mail me. I only know how the send them to you as an attachment . John Watertor _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 21 17:47:23 2010 From: "Pointers" To: Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 18:19:38 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels Just got back from the tire shop. The TPMS on my Jeep was showing low pressure in two tires, which should not happen running nitrogen. They found corrosion at the valve stem opening. Having benefitted from this thread, I said "ah-so", whereas prior to this thread I didn't realize aluminum could corrode so quickly. Scrubbed it with wire brush & put some sealant on the pressure monitor rubber gasket. So anyone who wonders why they might lose a bit over time, this could be it. Apparently running nitrogen minimizes this problem (according to the shop) given lack of internal moisture. One tire on my Tiger goes flat over winter, but lasts the summer OK. Haven't figured that one out yet. (Basically because I haven't determined who to trust my Compomotive modular wheel to). Gary. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 21 23:11:59 2010 From: Sandy Ganz To: Pointers , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 21:50:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels Gary Had the same problem my cousins mini cooper. Tire seemed like it had a nail, but seems the PO used a 'slime' substance at some point to fix a flat and the inside of the rim was corroded to the point where it had pin holes on a few spots due to excessive aluminum corrosion. Did some JB Weld epoxy and some high temp silver metal tape and fixed it up. These were on some Japanese forged rims and they looked to be of OK quality. I think this was the first year of the new mini's and the rims were added a year or so after the car was new so seems it can happen quickly. The nitrogen is good as it has the lack of water that most gas station air compressors have. I have an aluminum Nitrogen tank with the matching regulator which was made pretty inexpensively from a resturant supply place on line, I use that for the race cars as well as anything else the compressor hose won't reach. (I have a dessicant drying on the compressor as well). I have a few sets of Compomotive wheels and have talked with them (I think Alan?) I have had to have him change a rim offset and looks like 2 halfs glued on the seams with some common clear silicon with a really thick bead over the connection of the rim halfs, so might be that or the valve stem ... Or could just be a nail ;) I know what you mean, I took my set for mounting and they were treated like steel truck rims. I ended up getting a tire and mounting machine to solve that issue, only 244 more mounts and balances before I break even... Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: Pointers To: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 21, 2010 4:19:38 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels Just got back from the tire shop. The TPMS on my Jeep was showing low pressure in two tires, which should not happen running nitrogen. They found corrosion at the valve stem opening. Having benefitted from this thread, I said "ah-so", whereas prior to this thread I didn't realize aluminum could corrode so quickly. Scrubbed it with wire brush & put some sealant on the pressure monitor rubber gasket. So anyone who wonders why they might lose a bit over time, this could be it. Apparently running nitrogen minimizes this problem (according to the shop) given lack of internal moisture. One tire on my Tiger goes flat over winter, but lasts the summer OK. Haven't figured that one out yet. (Basically because I haven't determined who to trust my Compomotive modular wheel to). Gary. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 00:27:00 2010 From: michael king To: Sandy Ganz Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 16:11:34 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels > I ended up getting a tire and mounting machine to solve that issue, only > 244 > more mounts and balances before I break even... > > Sandy > Or.. look at the cost of 1 new rim and the mounting equipment becomes quite inexpensive -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 07:56:09 2010 From: "Alvin Johnson" To: "Pointers" , Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 09:28:07 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad The Volvo dealer convinced my wife that she should convert our S-80 Volvo to nitrogen-filled tires. Dealerships certainly do need service income when car sales are down. Now the Volvo is set for competition & the dealer is $50 richer. I doubt the Volvo has ever exceeded 70mph---and that rarely--- with her driving. My new Mustang is said to have a 150mph top speed, but makes do with ordinary air. . Don't I recall that the atmosphere we breathe is 80% nitrogen. Ah well---a Volvo with Ferrari asperations. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 10:56:38 2010 From: Sandy Ganz To: Alvin Johnson , Pointers Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 09:43:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad When all said and done it's not the nitrogen it's the water content. The nitrogen filling is also a bit of a scam IF they don't vacuum the tire out as well, as you are starting with a volume of already non dry air. You can get the same effect with a dessicant dryer on your air compressor for the most part. The main thing is that your tires stay a constant pressure which helps with gas mileage a bit. Claims for longer tire life, yada yada yada. Bottom line is check your tire pressure now and again ;) My favorite thing is the guy gushing waterbased tire slop around the bead then saying you need this nitrogen, the water moisture is the problem. Last claim was the nitrogen molecule is larger and will leak less, this problem is again fixed by 'Check air in tires now and again'. Funny thing I think CostCo does it for free or a couple of bucks now. The Volvo upsell might have been for the cool green caps you get with the 'Nitro-fill' ;) Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: Alvin Johnson To: Pointers ; tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Sat, May 22, 2010 6:28:07 AM Subject: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad The Volvo dealer convinced my wife that she should convert our S-80 Volvo to nitrogen-filled tires. Dealerships certainly do need service income when car sales are down. Now the Volvo is set for competition & the dealer is $50 richer. I doubt the Volvo has ever exceeded 70mph---and that rarely--- with her driving. My new Mustang is said to have a 150mph top speed, but makes do with ordinary air. . Don't I recall that the atmosphere we breathe is 80% nitrogen. Ah well---a Volvo with Ferrari asperations. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 11:13:03 2010 From: "Pointers" To: "Sandy Ganz" , "Alvin Johnson" Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 11:57:21 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Great information Sandy. The primary benefit is steady pressure given my climate. The severe drop in temp can cause an already low tire to lose poundage to the extent the bead breaks free resulting in a flat tire in a Northern Alberta temperature that would cause many on this list to shudder (including me!). Yes, the tires were new when they filled them, but I'm going to ask them about the water based tire slop during mounting, which I'm sure is the case. Gary. ----- Original Message ----- From: Sandy Ganz To: Alvin Johnson ; Pointers ; tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2010 11:43 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad When all said and done it's not the nitrogen it's the water content. The nitrogen filling is also a bit of a scam IF they don't vacuum the tire out as well, as you are starting with a volume of already non dry air. You can get the same effect with a dessicant dryer on your air compressor for the most part. The main thing is that your tires stay a constant pressure which helps with gas mileage a bit. Claims for longer tire life, yada yada yada. Bottom line is check your tire pressure now and again ;) My favorite thing is the guy gushing waterbased tire slop around the bead then saying you need this nitrogen, the water moisture is the problem. Last claim was the nitrogen molecule is larger and will leak less, this problem is again fixed by 'Check air in tires now and again'. Funny thing I think CostCo does it for free or a couple of bucks now. The Volvo upsell might have been for the cool green caps you get with the 'Nitro-fill' ;) Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: Alvin Johnson To: Pointers ; tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Sat, May 22, 2010 6:28:07 AM Subject: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad The Volvo dealer convinced my wife that she should convert our S-80 Volvo to nitrogen-filled tires. Dealerships certainly do need service income when car sales are down. Now the Volvo is set for competition & the dealer is $50 richer. I doubt the Volvo has ever exceeded 70mph---and that rarely--- with her driving. My new Mustang is said to have a 150mph top speed, but makes do with ordinary air. . Don't I recall that the atmosphere we breathe is 80% nitrogen. Ah well---a Volvo with Ferrari asperations. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 11:40:04 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Alvin Johnson Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 10:21:39 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Alvin, Funny! "Asperations" ;-) However, if I were that concern about the dealer's profits, why would we haggle over the price? Because it has already been marked-up to account for it, and your skills. Just a note: I believe that the use of nitrogen is to keep the air dry, and not "oxidize" the rubber. A better solution would be helium, as it might make the car a little lighter. I don't recommend the use of hydrogen. Ask the Hidenberg guys! Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Alvin Johnson wrote: > The Volvo dealer convinced my wife that she should convert our S-80 > Volvo to nitrogen-filled tires. Dealerships certainly do need service > income when car sales are down. > Now the Volvo is set for competition & the dealer is $50 richer. I > doubt the Volvo has ever exceeded 70mph---and that rarely--- with her > driving. My new Mustang is said to have a 150mph top speed, but makes > do with ordinary air. > . Don't I recall that the atmosphere we breathe is 80% nitrogen. */Ah > well---a Volvo with Ferrari asperations./* _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 12:16:21 2010 From: "Jim" To: "'Steve Laifman'" , "'Alvin Johnson'" Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 10:55:37 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad A better solution would be helium, as it might make the car a little lighter. I don't recommend the use of hydrogen. Ask the Hidenberg guys! Steve That would bring a whole new meaning to 'Light up your tires!!' lol! Jim B382000446 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 13:40:30 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Jim'" , "'Steve Laifman'" , Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 15:12:53 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Jim Actually hydrogen is fine until you mix in Oxygen. The Hindenburg had more problems with the aluminized nitrate doping on the fabric; can you say rocket fuel. The hydrogen probably slowed the burn rate but I'll leave those findings to the Rocket Scientists among us. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2010 1:56 PM To: 'Steve Laifman'; 'Alvin Johnson' Cc: 'Pointers'; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad A better solution would be helium, as it might make the car a little lighter. I don't recommend the use of hydrogen. Ask the Hidenberg guys! Steve That would bring a whole new meaning to 'Light up your tires!!' lol! Jim B382000446 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2887 - Release Date: 05/21/10 06:26:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 14:13:22 2010 From: Sandy Ganz To: Jim , Steve Laifman , Alvin Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 12:50:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Ahh but Helium is a smaller molecule and like the Nitrogen sales pitch says it won't leak out through the porous tire and bead ;) How about Argon, another easy to get gas at the welding supply, but I think the regulator is more expensive then the Nitrogen Beer types. In any case you can make your own tank pretty easy, I'll put up some pics of what I did, it's pretty simple and actually very handy. Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: Jim To: Steve Laifman ; Alvin Johnson Cc: Pointers ; tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Sat, May 22, 2010 10:55:37 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad A better solution would be helium, as it might make the car a little lighter. I don't recommend the use of hydrogen. Ask the Hidenberg guys! Steve That would bring a whole new meaning to 'Light up your tires!!' lol! Jim B382000446 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 14:13:49 2010 From: Sandy Ganz To: michael king Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 12:52:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels Michael - I like your math! I'm going to try some of that stuff on my wife on the next tool purchase... Honey think of all the money it will save if I do it my self... Sound of frying pan hitting me on the head will be the last thing I remember ;) Sandy ________________________________ From: michael king To: Sandy Ganz Cc: Pointers ; tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 21, 2010 11:11:34 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Magnesium Wheels I ended up getting a tire and mounting machine to solve that issue, only 244 >more mounts and balances before I break even... > >Sandy > Or.. look at the cost of 1 new rim and the mounting equipment becomes quite inexpensive -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 15:10:49 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 13:52:38 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Well..., just make sure that your tires aren't filled with CO2. One blow-out and the polar icecaps could melt! :-) Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 16:14:45 2010 From: Paul R Sheahan To: Jim , Steve Laifman , Alvin Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 14:52:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Guys, If nitrogen makes that much difference for us driving our cars...........I have some swamp land down here in Florida I would like to move off.................... Paul Paul R Sheahan --- On Sat, 5/22/10, Sandy Ganz wrote: From: Sandy Ganz Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad To: "Jim" , "Steve Laifman" , "Alvin Johnson" Cc: "Pointers" , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Saturday, May 22, 2010, 3:50 PM Ahh but Helium is a smaller molecule and like the Nitrogen sales pitch says it won't leak out through the porous tire and bead ;) How about Argon, another easy to get gas at the welding supply, but I think the regulator is more expensive then the Nitrogen Beer types. In any case you can make your own tank pretty easy, I'll put up some pics of what I did, it's pretty simple and actually very handy. Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: Jim To: Steve Laifman ; Alvin Johnson Cc: Pointers ; tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Sat, May 22, 2010 10:55:37 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad A better solution would be helium, as it might make the car a little lighter. I don't recommend the use of hydrogen. Ask the Hidenberg guys! Steve That would bring a whole new meaning to 'Light up your tires!!' lol! Jim B382000446 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sunbeamtiger@prodigy.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 17:13:35 2010 From: v8cat To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 15:55:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad On Horsepower TV today, they spoke of all the benefits including "keeping white walls cleaner longer". hmmmmm _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 18:27:16 2010 From: michael king To: Tiger Talk List Tiger Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 10:06:28 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Replica Libre/Libra wheels Seems those who like the libre wheels might be in luck: http://www.vtowheels.com/retro4.html wide range of sizes too. -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 18:29:34 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Thomas Witt Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 17:13:37 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Tom, well it is a funny remark. Can you imagine how many believe in that? "Simple Solutions" will only work for "Simple People". Can you guys remember your high school education, where you were first taught that Trees provide shade, home for animals, fuel, wood, remove the CO2 from the air, and "exhale" the oxygen we, and all other animals, breathe. This goes for plants, vegetables, pretty flowers, and grain, as well. Sounded like a well balance cycle. Now, here are a lot of "Me Too"ers" that want to change all that by removing the very component that trees and vegetation need to survive and "save the earth". The next drive will be to save the dinosaurs from dying out because we keep sucking up their remains! This is NOT a political message, just a scientific one from a SELF preservationist. Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Thomas Witt wrote: > Well..., just make sure that your tires aren't filled with CO2. One > blow-out and the polar icecaps could melt! :-) > > Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 22 19:26:35 2010 From: Sabr2th To: Tigers Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 20:01:19 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad I did some back of the envelope calculations on this Nitrogen thing. Based on the ideal gas law (PV=mRT) my understanding is your tire pressure will vary in proportion to temperature regardless of what kind of gas you have in the tires. Just for kicks, if you inflated them to 32 psi @ 120F and drove somewhere cold, down to -60F you would lose 10 psi. Another observation: Since you really can9t pull a vacuum on a tire without breaking the bead you are starting off with air at 14.7 psi. Air is 79% Nitrogen. After inflating to 32 psi, my back of the envelope calculations indicate you9re now at 90% Nitrogen. The percent of moisture inside the tire hasn9t changed since liquids are significantly more dense that gases. As for moisture, are the inside of your tires/wheels more susceptible to moisture than the outside? Unless you always park in a garage, the outside of the tires see a lot of moisture cycling. Nitrogen and Oxygen are right next to each other on the periodic chart. So no real difference in molecule size. Another observation: I have some Goodyear Polyglas of the early 70s vintage that still look like new, hold air, etc. That would make them over 30 years old. I don9t plan on taking any long trips on them. My point is, why is the shelf life of new tires, many of which are in a climate controlled storage, now so short. My conspiracy theory is that the tire manufacturers have started using a cheaper method to make tires. Then they want to shift the blame for tire failure onto the consumer because they ran them past their expiration date. Planned obsolescence and CYA. Sorry for the long dissertation, I9m just really having a hard time with this Nitrogen in the tires thing. I9ll crawl back under my rock now. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 07:54:18 2010 From: Tod Brown To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 09:40:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad The Ideal Gas Law which, no doubt, many of you remember studying in your chemistry and physics classes long ago, indicates that all gases behave identically, so long as they are sufficiently far from their condensation (boiling) points. For nitrogen the BP is -196 C and for oxygen it is -183 C, so I think we can assume that both will behave in the same way when undergoing a temperature change, unless you live in some rather extraordinary climate. If you do, I would suggest that you probably have several more important worries than filling your tires with nitrogen and that it would be a good idea to move. In short, so long as the gas in your tires is dry, it makes little, if any, difference which gas you use. Some argue the benefits of not using oxygen in your tires to reduce degradation of the tires. However, keep in mind that the exterior will be exposed to oxygen, so I think there is little to be gained on this score. Unless someone with some really convincing data comes along, I remain unconvinced by people who want to charge me to fill my tires with nitrogen. Cheers, Tod B382002384LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 09:26:38 2010 From: Tod Brown To: tigers@autox.team.net, rollright@aol.com Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 11:06:27 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bumpers Having been most rudely accused of doing evil things to my bumpers by Jim Armstrong, ("(I happen to know that Tod Brown paints his with dull silver rattle-can paint and coats the final product with baby seal blubber for thatMaine coastal shine. This is not what I'm looking for."),I wish to set the record straight. Although the rattle can and seal blubber application was the traditional treatment forMaine pickup bumpers in the past and did add a certain je ne sais quoi, we have moved on to a more environmentally acceptable procedure. The problem, mostly, was that the moose lick the bumpers and the porcupines gnaw on them. (Have you ever seen a porcupine with heavy metal poisoning?) Naturally, most would think that we Mainers would somehow incorporate duct tape into the solution (We live close to the Canadian border and get The Red Green Show), but there is something clearly superior. I was in my local Agway recently and discovered a type of tape even better than the revered duct tape. It's every bit as strong but it's really SHINY! (like chrome). So I have redone my bumpers with the shiny tape which makes them look really elegant and then sprayed them with clear coat. I have also filled my tires with nitrogen fromEngland. Now I'm ready for the concours at the United. I'm also sending Jim a couple of rolls of the tape, so he can do his bumpers and his (lug) nuts. If others are interested, I can organize a bulk buy of the tape. Cheers, Tod B382002384LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 09:39:19 2010 From: David or Gary To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 15:20:57 GMT Subject: [Tigers] JAP Wheels/ LAT 9 center cap Here is a picture link from John Watertor of his J.A. Pearce wheel. http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/8721018/387518677.jpg The people looking for center caps for these wheels (or any other mag) might be able to use the LAT 9 "Tiger head" center caps that David Green is having made, if they are close to the same size (about 2 3/16" to 2 1/2" across). David Franchi _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 12:09:34 2010 From: Sandy Ganz To: Tod Brown , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 10:47:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Yes, it's not the gas type it the water content as Tod said. I think nitrogen is a gas that became popular since several companies make extraction systems that can take it from air and 'filter' out the oxy molecules or some such thing, entire unit sold to tire shops with the "Buy this and turn a profit" sales pitch, and your get free green valve stem caps... Nitrogen is also pretty inexpensive and common since bar's use it for beer dispensers so regulators and the like are super cheep for the hobby guys, the funded racers use not-so-cheep (welding, etc) equipment as you might expect. You can pull a vacuum on a tire, the bead will hold (once seated) but I guess that depends on how much you try to pull. As I said before, just checking and maintaining the air in your tires is more then most people do, doing just that solves most of the claimed benefits Nitrogen, mileage, tire wear, clean underware and fresh breath or what ever the claim these days are. Anyone want to recommend a syntheitc oil? (just kidding!) Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: Tod Brown To: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Sun, May 23, 2010 6:40:24 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad The Ideal Gas Law which, no doubt, many of you remember studying in your chemistry and physics classes long ago, indicates that all gases behave identically, so long as they are sufficiently far from their condensation (boiling) points. For nitrogen the BP is -196 C and for oxygen it is -183 C, so I think we can assume that both will behave in the same way when undergoing a temperature change, unless you live in some rather extraordinary climate. If you do, I would suggest that you probably have several more important worries than filling your tires with nitrogen and that it would be a good idea to move. In short, so long as the gas in your tires is dry, it makes little, if any, difference which gas you use. Some argue the benefits of not using oxygen in your tires to reduce degradation of the tires. However, keep in mind that the exterior will be exposed to oxygen, so I think there is little to be gained on this score. Unless someone with some really convincing data comes along, I remain unconvinced by people who want to charge me to fill my tires with nitrogen. Cheers, Tod B382002384LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 12:31:49 2010 From: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" To: "'michael king'" , "'Tiger Talk List Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 13:09:16 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Replica Libre/Libra wheels List I found it interesting on that website, if you go to "FAQ & Tech", it shows 7/16 lugnuts to be torqued to 55-65 lbs. The Tiger Shop Manual shows 48 lbs. that I always thought was quite low. I'm a firm believer of proper torque settings, but now I think I'll go up a few more lbs. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael king Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2010 7:06 PM To: Tiger Talk List Tiger Subject: [Tigers] Replica Libre/Libra wheels Seems those who like the libre wheels might be in luck: http://www.vtowheels.com/retro4.html wide range of sizes too. -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 12:54:00 2010 From: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" To: "'Sandy Ganz'" , "'Tod Brown'" Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 13:35:43 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad List, Speaking of moisture in tires, I know there are a lot of farm tractors and other machinery that fill their tires with water for the added weight, I don't know if they go through more tires because of doing that or not. I do know that most all aircraft tires are filled with NO2. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sandy Ganz Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 12:47 PM To: Tod Brown; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Yes, it's not the gas type it the water content as Tod said. I think nitrogen is a gas that became popular since several companies make extraction systems that can take it from air and 'filter' out the oxy molecules or some such thing, entire unit sold to tire shops with the "Buy this and turn a profit" sales pitch, and your get free green valve stem caps... Nitrogen is also pretty inexpensive and common since bar's use it for beer dispensers so regulators and the like are super cheep for the hobby guys, the funded racers use not-so-cheep (welding, etc) equipment as you might expect. You can pull a vacuum on a tire, the bead will hold (once seated) but I guess that depends on how much you try to pull. As I said before, just checking and maintaining the air in your tires is more then most people do, doing just that solves most of the claimed benefits Nitrogen, mileage, tire wear, clean underware and fresh breath or what ever the claim these days are. Anyone want to recommend a syntheitc oil? (just kidding!) Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: Tod Brown To: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Sun, May 23, 2010 6:40:24 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad The Ideal Gas Law which, no doubt, many of you remember studying in your chemistry and physics classes long ago, indicates that all gases behave identically, so long as they are sufficiently far from their condensation (boiling) points. For nitrogen the BP is -196 C and for oxygen it is -183 C, so I think we can assume that both will behave in the same way when undergoing a temperature change, unless you live in some rather extraordinary climate. If you do, I would suggest that you probably have several more important worries than filling your tires with nitrogen and that it would be a good idea to move. In short, so long as the gas in your tires is dry, it makes little, if any, difference which gas you use. Some argue the benefits of not using oxygen in your tires to reduce degradation of the tires. However, keep in mind that the exterior will be exposed to oxygen, so I think there is little to be gained on this score. Unless someone with some really convincing data comes along, I remain unconvinced by people who want to charge me to fill my tires with nitrogen. Cheers, Tod B382002384LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 13:36:54 2010 From: spook01@comcast.net To: tigers Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 02:31:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Tigers] Tires and the care thereof...from a REAL expert on the Hi Ray, Here's a bit on the topic. Mike Tire age as a determiner of tire condition would be a delightfully straightforward way to measure a tire's value to its owner. Unfortunately, the opportunity to achieve this desirable situation of linked-parameters is complicated by the political/legal factors of tire usage, the lack of uniform tire technology, and routinely poor user maintenance. A tire's structural integrity isB at its best just after cooling from the vulcanization process. My experience suggests that most of today's tires have little chance of having structural issues at this point regardless of technology.B Tire vulcanization completes all of the mechanical and chemical bonds that make the textile, steel, and rubber pieces hold on to each other. Even if the tire were never used, time would eventually cause deterioration of both external and internal bonds as retained oils migrate, oxidation occurs, and physical distortion of storage stresses certain areas of the product. However,B my own personal experienceB has included both radial and biasB tires that were stillB viable after 30+ years of storage, use,B and inflation on collector cars. At the same time, nearly 40 years as a tire engineer has shown me a lot of physical deterioration and structural failure in tires less than 10 years old.... which had been about the "rule of thumb" tire age for concern. Given that most tires are initially structurally sound, most of the early-life issues I've seen in tires resulted from poor maintenance,B undersized tireB applications, or environmental degradation. So....what are some of the tire age issues to consider? 1. From a tire company perspective, every tire is intended to fully satisfy a customer and it isB likely that 99% actually achieve that goal. A company also has to consider that a fraction of its tires will be held accountable for accidents and lawsuits. Armed with the knowledge that tires do structurally deteriorate over time and internal damage accumulates as a result ofB poor maintenance.....there is less product risk if all tires in service are "newer". In an era of rampant consummerism and legislated safety issues, there is general agreement that tire companies, government agencies, and consumer advocates want to have low risk tires in service. To-date, this has not resulted in illegal-aged tires, and it is not a bad line of reasoning. 2. The actual textile, steel and rubber components inside a tire are extremely resistant to natural deterioration. The chemical bonds between them, and the actual exterior of the tire are less resistant to degradation. Most car folks realize that tubeless tires "lose" inflation pressure over time....but they may not realize that the lost air is migrating through the tire. Inflation air contains oxygen and moisture which force there way through a tire (that's why internal adhesion failures can show up as bubbles on a tire's surface) and they chemically react with the tire's bonded structures as they travel. Tube-type tires seldom pressurize internally as inflation air migrates from the tube andB finds its way out the loose-fit valve hole in the rim. 3.B The worst degradation of a tire structure comes from overloading or underinflation. Both of these conditions make the tire's structure work harder and generate more heat than intended. (If you've not thought of rubber creating heat....B repititiously stretch a small section of a thick rubber band and then hold it to your lip to feel the hysteretic heat increase!). Heat deteriorates the chemical bonds in a tire, leading to separation of structural componentsB and failure can result. So....proper inflation & pressure maintenance contributes mightily to tire life extension. 4. External damage from mechanical sources are always risk factors that shorten a tire's life because it visually damages the structure. Less obvious damage results from exposure to sunlight, ozone, and tire cleaners. All of these factors can lead to cracking of the sidewall andB tread rubber. Since all manufacturers use different rubber compounds on the sidewall and tread, there is alot ofB variability in cracking resistance.B The sidewall and tread rubber protects and reinforces the structure of the tire. If cracking becomes too deep, the cracking agent (sun, ozone, or cleaner) can reach the textile/steel reinforcements and cause failure. Deep circumferential cracks actually can create an unexpected sidewall or tread hinge point that helps flex-fatigue the structure beneath.B To guard against cracking causes, tires are designed with anti-oxidants, anti-ozone chemicals, and oils that bleed to the surface in service to protect the tire with a chemical skin. The gray or brown film you remove with tire cleaners is the tire's protective skin. So.....what reasonable steps can prolong tire life.....while it is legal to do so? - Use the right tire size (or larger) with adequate (or more) inflation that is checked often - Store tires or vehicle away from sunlight and ozone-rich (electric motors create ozone as do ion air purifiers) environmentsB - Clean tires as seldom as needed with gentle cleaners (painting is likely better than cleaning if the "look" is satisfactory). Armorall, gasoline, and brake fluid clean great but are destructive in my opinion. - Inspect tires for cracksB since they are inevitable as tires age. Minor cracks around letters and other sidewall featuresB are normal....as are cracks at junctions of different rubbers (often visible by color differences as well). If cracks become deep ....perhaps 1/10"...B and/or are continuously circumferential while deep, a structural issue may exist or may be in creation. Cracking at this level may look so bad, you'd be embarrassed to own them anyway! So, in conclusion: There are technical, social, legal, and visual reasons to promote usage of young tires. However, tires have been routinely used in service for periods of 10+ years with good maintenance practices. It is probably a bad practice to arbitrarily expect 10+ years of service from your tires....so keep the aging factors and deterioration evidence in mind while inspecting your tires often to see how they are doing!B _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 14:07:07 2010 From: Chris Thompson To: "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 15:48:34 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad In our part of the country we don't fill them with water or they will freeze, which IS hard on the tires ;-) We typically *partly* fill them with methanol although some people cheap out and fill with saltwater. And at least here in the mountains we don't do it for weight per se, but to lower the center of gravity to reduce rollovers. Hence, just about half-filled. And at the track, we don't put N in the tires to extend their life - heck most people don't use the same set of tires twice. The sole reason is because without the moisture in the "air" the pressure in the tire doesn't change near so much as the tire heats up...... Chris B382000331 Jerry & Maureen (Mo) wrote: > List, > > Speaking of moisture in tires, I know there are a lot of farm tractors and > other machinery that fill their tires with water for the added weight, I > don't know if they go through more tires because of doing that or not. > > I do know that most all aircraft tires are filled with NO2. > > Jerry Christopherson > 9473187 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 14:07:32 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 12:50:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Replica Libre/Libra wheels Jerry, It isn't "torque" that holds the wheel on to the car, but the total clamping force. The diameter of the root of the stud threads, the number of studs/wheel, and the bearing area of the lug nut seat dictate the clamping force required. Whether the wheel can take it depends on the design. I recall that the Triumph TR-2 was required, for racing, to have a load plate over the studs to prevent the wheel center from tearing out. The Tiger has thicker wheels in that area than the Alpine then proceeded it. Later "homogulated" to reduce stocking parts. The clamping force can be measured with some sophisticated strain gauges in special instrumented washers, but that's a little much for a production car. I recall my Jaguar Knock-Offs mounting torque was "a good fitting with a rawhide hammer, followed by a goodly thwack with a copper one. (Came with the car!) The actual clamping force required in the stud is translated to the installed torque of the wheel nuts for each application so that a garage or owner can tighten to the required clamping force. If you have bigger stud diameters, and/or more of them, that number can vary, and does. I have used a Snap-On Torque Wrench, set to 50 pounds F, to correctly clamp the wheel to the car. An alloy wheel needs to withstand that clamping tension and not crack. Your Panasport wheels are very well made, and can stand the compressive load required. Not so good wheels could crack in the stud holes. BTW, this is the reason that factory tire wrenches seem short. That is to prevent the Gorilla in us from exceeding the force, and maybe breaking something. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Jerry & Maureen (Mo) wrote: > List > > I found it interesting on that website, if you go to "FAQ & Tech", it shows > 7/16 lugnuts to be torqued to 55-65 lbs. The Tiger Shop Manual shows 48 lbs. > that I always thought was quite low. I'm a firm believer of proper torque > settings, but now I think I'll go up a few more lbs. > > Jerry Christopherson > 9473187 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 16:08:55 2010 From: Steve Ralsten To: Tiger email list Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 14:58:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Installed 100% Brit steel wheels today (no magnesium no Posted a couple pics at CAT forum. http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?p=827#post827 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 18:23:27 2010 From: David T Johnson To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 17:18:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Spring Fling was great Listers The Indiana SAAC Spring Fling was Great. Dry and Sunny. Ony 4 Tigers showed up. Two broke down due to thrown out bearing problem, the other plugged carb jsts. First Place went to the late Tom Stoyles black beauty. The Bishops daughter Sanadra won the Road Rallty (A dynsty continues??) Still the best show in the country. Next yerr I hope to have my car on the road. Dave _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 19:39:34 2010 From: "Bill Waite" To: "David T Johnson" , Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 21:25:47 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Spring Fling was great Tiger Listers, To elaborate a bit on Dave's comments, the first place trophy went to David Tiettmeyer of Cincinnati, Ohio... the owner of the Tiger previously owned by the late Tom Stoyles. Lots of great Ford powered iron at the Spring Fling. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "David T Johnson" To: Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 8:18 PM Subject: [Tigers] Spring Fling was great > Listers > The Indiana SAAC Spring Fling was Great. Dry and Sunny. > Ony 4 Tigers showed up. Two broke down due to thrown out > bearing problem, the other plugged carb jsts. First Place went > to the late Tom Stoyles black beauty. The Bishops daughter > Sanadra won the Road Rallty (A dynsty continues??) > > Still the best show in the country. > > Next yerr I hope to have my car on the road. > > Dave > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fordlandia@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 23 21:35:54 2010 From: "Bob Hokanson" To: "Tigers" Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 20:11:56 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Replica Libre/Libra wheels Hasn't anybody but me snapped off one of the spindly little 7/16 wheel studs and graduated to 1/2 studs? Of course this was back in my younger days when I was stronger (and faster). Bob H > I found it interesting on that website, if you go to "FAQ & Tech", it > shows > 7/16 lugnuts to be torqued to 55-65 lbs. The Tiger Shop Manual shows 48 > lbs. > that I always thought was quite low. I'm a firm believer of proper torque > settings, but now I think I'll go up a few more lbs. > > Jerry Christopherson > 9473187 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 24 08:55:44 2010 From: Joe Rebelo To: "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 07:39:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Tire deterioration idea? I don't have the technical expertise on the running tire conversation, but I have an idea. Let's all just drive our cars so much that we get back to the basics of wearing out the tread! I figure through some very complex calculations that if driven the way the forefathers of the tiger intended, we shouldn't get more than 2.897 years (except in a leap year) out of our street tires. Joe B9470666 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 24 11:25:37 2010 From: "Jim" To: "'Joe Rebelo'" , Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 10:07:12 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tire deterioration idea? Well... if I had a set of our forefather's 5.90-13's , they wouldn't last me more than 2.897 weeks... even after rotating them front to back, lol! My 245/50-14's are date coded 1981 & 1982 ! They actually 'look' perfect as the car has been indoors for probably 99.99% of that time ... not very sticky though :( Coker is finally making a new batch ( been unavailable for several years ) and I was hoping to have them for the TU autocross but their having trouble with the molds and might not have them ready for another month or 2 ... Jim B382000446 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Rebelo Sent: May 24, 2010 7:39 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Tire deterioration idea? I don't have the technical expertise on the running tire conversation, but I have an idea. Let's all just drive our cars so much that we get back to the basics of wearing out the tread! I figure through some very complex calculations that if driven the way the forefathers of the tiger intended, we shouldn't get more than 2.897 years (except in a leap year) out of our street tires. Joe B9470666 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim@island.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 24 13:10:22 2010 From: "rsdslp@juno.com" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 18:52:29 GMT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tire deterioration idea? I am a little leery about buying Coker tires. A few years ago I bought a pair of the Coker Classic redline tires for my Jaguar. It turns out they only used 1 ply in the sidewall (this is something they don't list in the specs). These tires were so squishy they were unsafe and I had to remove them. ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 24 13:58:03 2010 From: "John Stithem" To: Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 12:40:28 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs I HAVE snapped more than one 7/16" stud. So the next question would be--- Has anyone written up a Tech Tip for changing out to 1/2" studs? The front hubs seem like a no brainer to drill out. Do you need to pull the rear hubs to drill out for 1/2" studs. Is there any more machining that needs to be done except just drill the correct size for the 1/2" studs? John Message: 2 Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 20:11:56 -0700 From: "Bob Hokanson" Subject: Re: [Tigers] Replica Libre/Libra wheels To: "Tigers" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Hasn't anybody but me snapped off one of the spindly little 7/16 wheel studs and graduated to 1/2 studs? Of course this was back in my younger days when I was stronger (and faster). Bob H > I found it interesting on that website, if you go to "FAQ & Tech", it > shows > 7/16 lugnuts to be torqued to 55-65 lbs. The Tiger Shop Manual shows 48 > lbs. > that I always thought was quite low. I'm a firm believer of proper torque > settings, but now I think I'll go up a few more lbs. > > Jerry Christopherson > 9473187 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 24 17:30:19 2010 From: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" To: "'John Stithem'" , Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 18:02:53 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs 1/2" studs would be much stronger; my only concern would be the amount of material being removed would make the hub a little bit weaker. Perhaps it would remain strong enough, I don't know, I'm just thinking out loud. Jerry Christopherson -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Stithem Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 2:40 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs I HAVE snapped more than one 7/16" stud. So the next question would be--- Has anyone written up a Tech Tip for changing out to 1/2" studs? The front hubs seem like a no brainer to drill out. Do you need to pull the rear hubs to drill out for 1/2" studs. Is there any more machining that needs to be done except just drill the correct size for the 1/2" studs? John Message: 2 Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 20:11:56 -0700 From: "Bob Hokanson" Subject: Re: [Tigers] Replica Libre/Libra wheels To: "Tigers" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Hasn't anybody but me snapped off one of the spindly little 7/16 wheel studs and graduated to 1/2 studs? Of course this was back in my younger days when I was stronger (and faster). Bob H > I found it interesting on that website, if you go to "FAQ & Tech", it > shows > 7/16 lugnuts to be torqued to 55-65 lbs. The Tiger Shop Manual shows 48 > lbs. > that I always thought was quite low. I'm a firm believer of proper torque > settings, but now I think I'll go up a few more lbs. > > Jerry Christopherson > 9473187 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 24 18:24:09 2010 From: "Teepen, Jere" To: "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" , 'John Stithem' Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 20:06:02 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs My previous Sunbeam had Tiger Tom Patton's old race hubs on the rear. They were drilled to 1/2" inch many years ago and have been on that car since about 1990. I re-drilled the front hubs to 1/2" also, but I do not recall having the hubs off. I also do not recall re-drilling them on the car, which is unlikely to have happened. Getting old... My point is, no problems with the strength of the hubs after drilling them for 1/2" in my experience. The car was autocrossed frequently in the early '90's. Drill, baby, drill. Ha-ha. Jere -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry & Maureen (Mo) Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 4:03 PM To: 'John Stithem'; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs 1/2" studs would be much stronger; my only concern would be the amount of material being removed would make the hub a little bit weaker. Perhaps it would remain strong enough, I don't know, I'm just thinking out loud. Jerry Christopherson -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Stithem Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 2:40 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs I HAVE snapped more than one 7/16" stud. So the next question would be--- Has anyone written up a Tech Tip for changing out to 1/2" studs? The front hubs seem like a no brainer to drill out. Do you need to pull the rear hubs to drill out for 1/2" studs. Is there any more machining that needs to be done except just drill the correct size for the 1/2" studs? John _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 24 18:40:22 2010 From: Tom Parker To: "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 20:24:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs Good point, Jerry, especially given the tire footprints we're dealing with. The more rubber we put on the ground the more stress we put on the hubs. So... why not change the hubs? My point: has anyone found, or is anyone building five lug hubs for the Salisbury / Dana 44 tapered axles? Or is there an axle made for the Dana with welded hubs?. (I'm an OLD Ford guy, stuck in the fifties... and I'm not particularly interested in putting a shortened Ford 9" rear under my '67.) I know Dale has front and rear disk brake conversions, but they're four bolt. Tom On Mon, May 24, 2010 at 7:02 PM, Jerry & Maureen (Mo) < JCMC2006@suddenlink.net> wrote: > 1/2" studs would be much stronger; my only concern would be the amount of > material being removed would make the hub a little bit weaker. Perhaps it > would remain strong enough, I don't know, I'm just thinking out loud. > > Jerry Christopherson > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of John Stithem > Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 2:40 PM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs > > I HAVE snapped more than one 7/16" stud. So the next question would be--- > > Has anyone written up a Tech Tip for changing out to 1/2" studs? > The front hubs seem like a no brainer to drill out. Do you need to pull the > rear hubs to drill out for 1/2" studs. Is there any more machining that > needs to be done except just drill the correct size for the 1/2" studs? > > John > > > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 20:11:56 -0700 > From: "Bob Hokanson" > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Replica Libre/Libra wheels > To: "Tigers" > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > Hasn't anybody but me snapped off one of the spindly little 7/16 wheel > studs > > and graduated to 1/2 studs? > Of course this was back in my younger days when I was stronger (and > faster). > > Bob H > > > I found it interesting on that website, if you go to "FAQ & Tech", it > > shows > > 7/16 lugnuts to be torqued to 55-65 lbs. The Tiger Shop Manual shows 48 > > lbs. > > that I always thought was quite low. I'm a firm believer of proper > torque > > settings, but now I think I'll go up a few more lbs. > > > > Jerry Christopherson > > 9473187 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 24 19:42:20 2010 From: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" To: "'Teepen, Jere'" , "'John Stithem'" Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 20:15:30 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs Well then, I guess I'm convinced. Thanks for the input. Jerry Christopherson -----Original Message----- From: Teepen, Jere [mailto:jteepen@usatoday.com] Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 7:06 PM To: Jerry & Maureen (Mo); 'John Stithem'; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs My previous Sunbeam had Tiger Tom Patton's old race hubs on the rear. They were drilled to 1/2" inch many years ago and have been on that car since about 1990. I re-drilled the front hubs to 1/2" also, but I do not recall having the hubs off. I also do not recall re-drilling them on the car, which is unlikely to have happened. Getting old... My point is, no problems with the strength of the hubs after drilling them for 1/2" in my experience. The car was autocrossed frequently in the early '90's. Drill, baby, drill. Ha-ha. Jere -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry & Maureen (Mo) Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 4:03 PM To: 'John Stithem'; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs 1/2" studs would be much stronger; my only concern would be the amount of material being removed would make the hub a little bit weaker. Perhaps it would remain strong enough, I don't know, I'm just thinking out loud. Jerry Christopherson -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Stithem Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 2:40 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs I HAVE snapped more than one 7/16" stud. So the next question would be--- Has anyone written up a Tech Tip for changing out to 1/2" studs? The front hubs seem like a no brainer to drill out. Do you need to pull the rear hubs to drill out for 1/2" studs. Is there any more machining that needs to be done except just drill the correct size for the 1/2" studs? John _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 24 21:38:17 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: Beamclub Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 20:27:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Memeber living in Lake Havasu, Az. Would the member who lives in Lake Havasu, Az. contact me off list. IF someone knows who Im talking about, please send me his name. I know I have it in an old cell phone(battery charger might be a problem) and in old emails. He told me about a good place to get parts chromed and Jim Armstrong is in need of a reccomendation for himself and a friend to get their bumpers chromed. Cheers, TtT PS: anyone else have chrome work done they can reccomend for Jim? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 00:37:47 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: Beamclub Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 23:38:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Fw: Re: 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs --- On Mon, 5/24/10, Tony Somebody wrote: From: Tony Somebody Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs To: "John Stithem" Cc: "Beamclub" Date: Monday, May 24, 2010, 10:59 PM Removal of the rear hub will be necessary to remove the old stud- you could cut them off and then using a drift punch, knock out the remaining part but then drilling out the hole to the proper size- remembering different brand studs use different size knurlings on the stud that goes thru the hub which also has female knurlings that match original Rootes lug bolts.IF Rootes made a 1/2 inch lug bolt we could find in the UK but we still couldn't machine the female knurlings. All that said a machinist would allow .00X difference in the 1/2 inch stud. Then get the old hole aligned center wise to his approval prior to drilling to the size he decides is correct. There isn't enough room to install the rear studs with the hub on the axle- ALTHOUGH, someone did previously post an emergency fix by grinding the end on an angle, allowing the stud to have room to "square up" and install. One reason I wanted to replace the studs was they where to short for one set of 14" wheels I own, so that fix wouldn't have worked for me. I also had a broken stud. After having removed my rear hubs and having one that was very hard to get off and the other pretty well easy. EXCELLENT penetrating oil was soaking the whole time tho -- at least a week with the heat of a 100 watt light bulb heating the area as close as I could get the bulb to the key way- which was up by chance.I think if you have never packed your rear axle bearing, then you need to. My $.02 worth of course. I also used plenty of antisieze when putting the hubs back on the axles. Pay attention to your shims as my end play was much different after installing new bearings that I did not use the same ammount of shims on the drivers side. I replaced the inner axle seal too and the originals are leather. Of course I couldn't find those but afterward I cleaned them up and think the original leather seals would have continued to work as well or better than the newer non leather seal(IMO). Since starting this post, others have posted concerning the strength of the hub after drilling the holes to fit a 1/2 inch lug bolt. After having the hubs off and examining them, I wish now I had thought about installing 1/2 inch lugs. I feel there is plenty of metal to withstand the small amount required to get the stud to fit. Remembering that the original hub had what I call "knurlings" on the stud and in the hub, its obvious if drilled out you will be left with a round hole and no knurlings,Just removing the knurlings will make the original hole much larger and although I don have one off, I will try to remove one from my project rear end, so I can get a better visual of the hub and the amount of metal remaining. Considering how its made, I don't think there will be any problem for anyone thinking they want or need 1/2 inch studs. Duke just removed his, I hope mine come off easier this time. Any questions or thoughts, please post. TonytheTiger --- On Mon, 5/24/10, John Stithem wrote: _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 08:09:48 2010 From: spmdr@juno.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 07:07:20 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] 5 lug rear hubs FYC, There is a Jag out there that has a 5 lug hub that fits on the Tiger axle (same tapper). I'm not up on Jags, so don't know the year or model. But I have fondled a hub and fit it to a Tiger axle. ...net offset is unknown... DW ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 4.0% FIXED! $160,000 Mortgage for $633/mo. Free. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bfbd9ed17b526b8fm07vuc _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 08:23:50 2010 From: spmdr@juno.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 07:16:45 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] 5 lug rear hubs cont. I should add, I have a set of Tiger rear hubs that have been welded and converted to 5 lug. Let me know if you have a burning (pi) desire to reinvent that (type of ) wheel. I would trade for some stockers. I don't remember what bolt circle, right off... DW ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bfbdc125d33a6c8em07vuc _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 08:53:33 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 09:43:52 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 5 lug rear hubs I think it's the Mk2 sedan. From what I understand it has a 5 on 5" bolt circle. For my rear disc conversion, I had a pair of new hubs machined and drilled 5 on 4 1/2" by Doug Jennings' machinist. As I understand it, he'll do standard-dimension Tiger hubs and then drill the hub for whatever bolt pattern you want. The hub flange is a lot more beefy than stock, both thicker and larger OD. It costs a little more money but they're not going to break, and the stud holes are in exactly the right place. Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spmdr@juno.com > Sent: May 25, 2010 8:07 AM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] 5 lug rear hubs > > FYC, > > There is a Jag out there that has a 5 lug hub that fits on the Tiger > axle > (same tapper). > > I'm not up on Jags, so don't know the year or model. > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 14:25:36 2010 From: TIGEROOTES@aol.com To: tkparker1941@gmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 16:25:26 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs Tom wrote: "My point: has anyone found, or is anyone building five lug hubs for the Salisbury / Dana 44 tapered axles?" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------- The hubs on Jaguar Mk-1 and Mk-2 saloon cars have the 5-lug Chevy pattern and are direct replacements for the rear hubs on a Tiger. Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club Seattle _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 14:39:31 2010 From: "Teepen, Jere" To: "TIGEROOTES@aol.com" , "tkparker1941@gmail.com" Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 16:39:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs Doug Jennings at the Tiger Auto Club (937-252-3317) has (had?) hubs made that could accommodate variety of lug patterns, including 5 lug. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TIGEROOTES@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 1:25 PM To: tkparker1941@gmail.com; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs Tom wrote: "My point: has anyone found, or is anyone building five lug hubs for the Salisbury / Dana 44 tapered axles?" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------- The hubs on Jaguar Mk-1 and Mk-2 saloon cars have the 5-lug Chevy pattern and are direct replacements for the rear hubs on a Tiger. Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club Seattle _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jteepen@usatoday.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 14:51:25 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Dave Munroe , Tiger's Den Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 13:52:19 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Bonnet latch Installation and Adjustment Dave, I went through the http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/tech_threads/tt-body9.asp and found the "article" I think you refer to. These are ordered "List" comments from July, 1997. The Page 9, Section O - Body as a lot of discussions on the LAT Hood (Bonnet) and latch. *My own reply in May 1999, (amplified with pictures of my installation). These are "step-by-step" directions .* Also read the comments about the front hood shims (on the same page answering Ray McCrary) detailing the shimming of the front hood hinges. prior to my comments above. I also recall having to trim the rear rubber stops to allow the thicker hood to seat correctly. This page, and section(s) are filled with older list comments which are as true today. It still works well today. I've sent it to the List, as well, for others who may have the same issues. BTW: Dave, the search engine found it with the search "exact phrase" option for "Hood Latch". This resulted in only 2 pages (17 listings), and this is the first one listed. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Dave Munroe wrote: > Hi Steve; > > I recall you did an article some time back regarding the adjustment of > a Tiger bonnet latch mechanism without getting the thing locked down > and unable to release it again from inside the cockpit. > > Try as I might, I could not locate this article on the TU site using > the in-house search engine. > > Could you please direct me to it if it still is available? > > Thanks Steve, > > Dave Munroe _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 15:09:34 2010 From: Landcmitch@aol.com To: TIGEROOTES@aol.com, tkparker1941@gmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 17:10:12 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs There is even one for sale on ebay. Charlie _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 19:20:44 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: Beamclub Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 18:16:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Jaguar and Tiger hub List- Ive been told for years that a certain year Jaguar used the same rear axle hub as the Tiger. Does anyone have any idea what model, year, etc Jag this applies to? I would also appreciate pics of a hub if anyone has one removed presently. I have started rebuilding a rear end but I haven't manged to get the brake hubs removed yet- amazing what years of setting creates. Also for those interested, the hub mentioned on epay is, I think, for a Jag but not even close to the Tiger hub. cheers, TtT _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 19:39:09 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Tony Somebody , Tiger's Den Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 18:40:03 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Jaguar and Tiger hub Tony, Is this what you had in Mind? (picture will be deleted by the List, but the link works) http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/LaifmanWireWheels/pt-SteveLaifmanWireWheels1.asp Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Tony Somebody wrote: > List- Ive been told for years that a certain year Jaguar used the same rear > axle hub as the Tiger. Does anyone have any idea what model, year, etc Jag > this applies to? > I would also appreciate pics of a hub if anyone has one removed presently. I > have started rebuilding a rear end but I haven't manged to get the brake hubs > removed yet- amazing what years of setting creates. > Also for those interested, the hub mentioned on epay is, I think, for a Jag > but not even close to the Tiger hub. > cheers, TtT _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 21:22:49 2010 From: "Ramon Spontelli" To: Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 20:13:38 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs But-but-but . . . Why not just stronger aftermarket 7/16-inch studs? We broke one of the original studs when we first started autocrossing the Mark II twenty-something years ago. We replaced 'em all with stronger 7/16-inch studs and have not had a problem since. Ramon _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 21:35:22 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: "rspontelli@earthlink.net" , Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 22:29:32 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs Good point: If you put on 1/2" studs, can you still use the OEM steel spare wheel? I used four 7/16" Moroso studs per wheel when I built my road race car. Never had a problem, even using 9" wide slicks. Dumb thing is that they come in sets of five, and three sets leaves you one stud short! Ramon, does anyone have a knurl diameter that's close to the stock size or is drilling the only way to go? Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ramon Spontelli > Sent: May 25, 2010 9:14 PM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs > > But-but-but . . . Why not just stronger aftermarket 7/16-inch studs? > > We broke one of the original studs when we first started autocrossing > the > Mark II twenty-something years ago. We replaced 'em all with stronger > 7/16-inch studs and have not had a problem since. > > Ramon > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 25 21:55:28 2010 From: "Ramon Spontelli" To: "'Smit, Theo'" , Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 20:55:51 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs << . . . does anyone have a knurl diameter that's close to the stock size or is drilling the only way to go?>> Theo, I fretted about the knurl diameter when I did mine because I could not find an exact match. I bought the closest oversize studs--Moroso--and took the whole shebang to the machinist who'd been doing my engine work for years and years. I thought he'd have to rework the hubs a bit. Funny guy. Here's how he explained it to me: "This is a turd," he said as he held up one of the new, stronger, Moroso studs. "This is your asshole," he said as he held up one of my hubs, pointing to an empty stud hole. "Get it?" He just pressed those slightly oversized studs into the hubs. Like I said, I never had a problem with 'em, and I've subsequently done the same with the Mark I street car and the Series II Alpine. Ramon P.S. When I did the Alpine, I found out that those really-long studs fit under the hubcaps on the stock wheels. Who'd-a-thunk that? -----Original Message----- From: Smit, Theo [mailto:Theo.Smit@dynastream.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 8:30 PM To: rspontelli@earthlink.net; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs Good point: If you put on 1/2" studs, can you still use the OEM steel spare wheel? I used four 7/16" Moroso studs per wheel when I built my road race car. Never had a problem, even using 9" wide slicks. Dumb thing is that they come in sets of five, and three sets leaves you one stud short! Ramon, does anyone have a knurl diameter that's close to the stock size or is drilling the only way to go? Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ramon Spontelli > Sent: May 25, 2010 9:14 PM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs > > But-but-but . . . Why not just stronger aftermarket 7/16-inch studs? > > We broke one of the original studs when we first started autocrossing > the > Mark II twenty-something years ago. We replaced 'em all with stronger > 7/16-inch studs and have not had a problem since. > > Ramon > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 26 09:53:09 2010 From: "Bill Waite" To: Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 11:50:31 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Request to Mark 1A and II Owners Re. Soft Top Stowage Hoping one of you guys can help me. I put a new soft top on our Mark II (later style top). Then, demonstrating my uncanny ability for bad timing... I have somehow managed to misplace the owner's manual. I want to stow (put down) the soft top properly. Can one of you guys scan the pages in the owner's manual that describes the process... or otherwise provide (or point me to) the process in sufficient detail to help me avoid damaging the top? Thanks in advance, Bill Waite Grand Rapids, MI _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 26 10:06:30 2010 From: spook01@comcast.net To: Paul R Sheahan Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 16:05:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Well, if using it is pointless, I will let our mx department know we should stop using it in the jet tires. Or maybe not. Energy Management is the hallmark of a professional pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul R Sheahan To: Jim , Steve Laifman , Alvin Johnson , Sandy Ganz Cc: Pointers , tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 22 May 2010 21:52:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Guys, If nitrogen makes that much difference for us driving our cars...........I have some swamp land down here in Florida I would like to move off.................... Paul Paul R Sheahan --- On Sat, 5/22/10, Sandy Ganz wrote: From: Sandy Ganz Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad To: "Jim" , "Steve Laifman" , "Alvin Johnson" Cc: "Pointers" , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Saturday, May 22, 2010, 3:50 PM Ahh but Helium is a smaller molecule and like the Nitrogen sales pitch says it won't leak out through the porous tire and bead ;) How about Argon, another easy to get gas at the welding supply, but I think the regulator is more expensive then the Nitrogen Beer types. In any case you can make your own tank pretty easy, I'll put up some pics of what I did, it's pretty simple and actually very handy. Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: Jim To: Steve Laifman ; Alvin Johnson Cc: Pointers ; tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Sat, May 22, 2010 10:55:37 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad A better solution would be helium, as it might make the car a little lighter. I don't recommend the use of hydrogen. Ask the Hidenberg guys! Steve That would bring a whole new meaning to 'Light up your tires!!' lol! Jim B382000446 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sunbeamtiger@prodigy.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 26 10:10:51 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Bill Waite'" , Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 12:11:28 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Request to Mark 1A and II Owners Re. Soft Top Stowage This email might help if the video is still there. Listers, I have put the 40Mb high res video on youtube. It is titled "Sunbeam Top Stowage". Ross "Commodore Blues" Hulse _______ Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Waite Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 11:51 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Request to Mark 1A and II Owners Re. Soft Top Stowage Hoping one of you guys can help me. I put a new soft top on our Mark II (later style top). Then, demonstrating my uncanny ability for bad timing... I have somehow managed to misplace the owner's manual. I want to stow (put down) the soft top properly. Can one of you guys scan the pages in the owner's manual that describes the process... or otherwise provide (or point me to) the process in sufficient detail to help me avoid damaging the top? Thanks in advance, Bill Waite Grand Rapids, MI _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2895 - Release Date: 05/26/10 06:25:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 26 10:27:46 2010 From: "Scott Hutchinson" To: , "Paul R Sheahan" Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 12:28:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad I was told by our maintenance department that even if you dried the air before you put it the tire there would still be enough water vapor that when you got to altitude puddles would form from the condensation. Then they freeze and break loose on touchdown beating up the inside of the tire. It always amazes me how much nitrogen actually goes in to one of those things. I mean, look at a car tire. 35 maybe 40 psi. Couple of feet high. A 737 main wheel tire is 4 feet tall and is inflated to 200 psi. Scott Hutchinson Director of Operations NetJets Large Aircraft O. 860.292.1191 M. 843.290.2805 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01@comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 12:05 PM To: Paul R Sheahan Cc: Pointers; Alvin@autox.team.net; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Well, if using it is pointless, I will let our mx department know we should stop using it in the jet tires. Or maybe not. Energy Management is the hallmark of a professional pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul R Sheahan To: Jim , Steve Laifman , Alvin Johnson , Sandy Ganz Cc: Pointers , tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 22 May 2010 21:52:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad Guys, If nitrogen makes that much difference for us driving our cars...........I have some swamp land down here in Florida I would like to move off.................... Paul Paul R Sheahan --- On Sat, 5/22/10, Sandy Ganz wrote: From: Sandy Ganz Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad To: "Jim" , "Steve Laifman" , "Alvin Johnson" Cc: "Pointers" , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Saturday, May 22, 2010, 3:50 PM Ahh but Helium is a smaller molecule and like the Nitrogen sales pitch says it won't leak out through the porous tire and bead ;) How about Argon, another easy to get gas at the welding supply, but I think the regulator is more expensive then the Nitrogen Beer types. In any case you can make your own tank pretty easy, I'll put up some pics of what I did, it's pretty simple and actually very handy. Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: Jim To: Steve Laifman ; Alvin Johnson Cc: Pointers ; tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Sat, May 22, 2010 10:55:37 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad A better solution would be helium, as it might make the car a little lighter. I don't recommend the use of hydrogen. Ask the Hidenberg guys! Steve That would bring a whole new meaning to 'Light up your tires!!' lol! Jim B382000446 _______________________________________________ *** ******* This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 26 12:53:51 2010 From: mcdangerous@verizon.net To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 13:54:23 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Tigers] 289 Dipstick (and 260 clutch) Questions Hi all. I'm just wrapping everything up before installing the Mk2 289 engine and HEH-CF transmission into my Mk1A. The car is still untouched with its original engine and transmission, being driven in its original configuration. The clutch is beginning to slip a bit, which would be the impetus to just install the 289 setup because I understand there are no adjustments for the 260 clutch and the engine has to be dropped to replace the clutch. THIS IS TRUE, RIGHT? Please let me know if the clutch can be worked on with the engine in the car (and what exactly is involved to do that). I will appreciate ANY advice re. The original reason for this email was to ask about the Tiger's dipstick. The dipstick that was on my 289 was bent up like a chicane. I'm pretty sure that's not the way it should look. I have a 1960s Cal Custom cast aluminum oil pan on the engine as well as the pressed steel one just in case I even need it. Does anyone know if the Tiger's dipstick was unique to the Tiger? If not, when buying a new dipstick, what should I buy? Is the right one the same one that was used on the 1966 or 1967 Ford Mustang / Falcon / Galaxie / Fairlane? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 26 15:20:15 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: , Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 16:56:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 289 Dipstick (and 260 clutch) Questions Here is an email I send out a couple years ago. The Rootes parts list shows Part # 1224808 which is superseded by #6100743 which is also the number I have listed for the MKII engine. I don't have a Ford number for these parts but here is what David Franchi wrote. "The later MKIA and MKII dip stick (short finger pull) is shown in the Tiger parts book with a Ford Part # C4JZ-6750-A (the Tiger MKI Rootes # 1224808 stick was superseded by this later short finger pull stick). I was never able to buy one of these short finger pull dip sticks from Ford. The "C4JZ" is an industrial part number and not available through the regular Ford Dealer, it also wasn't available from my local Ford Industrial Dealer." Can the C4JZ part still be found; probably not. I recommend that with your next oil change you mark the dipstick; 1st with just 4 quarts, run the engine to fill the oil filter; mark dipstick after it sits for a time; this is the 1 Qt low mark, add 1 Qt; this is the full mark. There are other ways to do this; if you already did an oil change then mark the full mark and siphon out 1 Qt and mark the 1 Qt low mark. Most of us are in the same position; few of us have the original dip in our Tigers. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mcdangerous@verizon.net Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 2:54 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] 289 Dipstick (and 260 clutch) Questions Hi all. I'm just wrapping everything up before installing the Mk2 289 engine and HEH-CF transmission into my Mk1A. The car is still untouched with its original engine and transmission, being driven in its original configuration. The clutch is beginning to slip a bit, which would be the impetus to just install the 289 setup because I understand there are no adjustments for the 260 clutch and the engine has to be dropped to replace the clutch. THIS IS TRUE, RIGHT? Please let me know if the clutch can be worked on with the engine in the car (and what exactly is involved to do that). I will appreciate ANY advice re. The original reason for this email was to ask about the Tiger's dipstick. The dipstick that was on my 289 was bent up like a chicane. I'm pretty sure that's not the way it should look. I have a 1960s Cal Custom cast aluminum oil pan on the engine as well as the pressed steel one just in case I even need it. Does anyone know if the Tiger's dipstick was unique to the Tiger? If not, when buying a new dipstick, what should I buy? Is the right one the same one that was used on the 1966 or 1967 Ford Mustang / Falcon / Galaxie / Fairlane? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2895 - Release Date: 05/26/10 06:25:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 26 15:47:45 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, mcdangerous@verizon.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 17:23:12 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] 289 Dipstick (and 260 clutch) Questions In my fooling with different dip sticks in digging through junk yards, I saw some difference in length between cars that used an alternator opposed to cars that used generators. If the generator was mounted high, it appeared to use a long dipstick to clear that. The cars I was viewing were non Tigers. Is that the same situation in MKI's and LA's as opposed to MkII's? The later dipsticks that are mounted on the driver's side were much longer. In a message dated 5/26/2010 5:18:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rfraser@bluefrog.com writes: Here is an email I send out a couple years ago. The Rootes parts list shows Part # 1224808 which is superseded by #6100743 which is also the number I have listed for the MKII engine. I don't have a Ford number for these parts but here is what David Franchi wrote. "The later MKIA and MKII dip stick (short finger pull) is shown in the Tiger parts book with a Ford Part # C4JZ-6750-A (the Tiger MKI Rootes # 1224808 stick was superseded by this later short finger pull stick). I was never able to buy one of these short finger pull dip sticks from Ford. The "C4JZ" is an industrial part number and not available through the regular Ford Dealer, it also wasn't available from my local Ford Industrial Dealer." Can the C4JZ part still be found; probably not. I recommend that with your next oil change you mark the dipstick; 1st with just 4 quarts, run the engine to fill the oil filter; mark dipstick after it sits for a time; this is the 1 Qt low mark, add 1 Qt; this is the full mark. There are other ways to do this; if you already did an oil change then mark the full mark and siphon out 1 Qt and mark the 1 Qt low mark. Most of us are in the same position; few of us have the original dip in our Tigers. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mcdangerous@verizon.net Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 2:54 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] 289 Dipstick (and 260 clutch) Questions Hi all. I'm just wrapping everything up before installing the Mk2 289 engine and HEH-CF transmission into my Mk1A. The car is still untouched with its original engine and transmission, being driven in its original configuration. The clutch is beginning to slip a bit, which would be the impetus to just install the 289 setup because I understand there are no adjustments for the 260 clutch and the engine has to be dropped to replace the clutch. THIS IS TRUE, RIGHT? Please let me know if the clutch can be worked on with the engine in the car (and what exactly is involved to do that). I will appreciate ANY advice re. The original reason for this email was to ask about the Tiger's dipstick. The dipstick that was on my 289 was bent up like a chicane. I'm pretty sure that's not the way it should look. I have a 1960s Cal Custom cast aluminum oil pan on the engine as well as the pressed steel one just in case I even need it. Does anyone know if the Tiger's dipstick was unique to the Tiger? If not, when buying a new dipstick, what should I buy? Is the right one the same one that was used on the 1966 or 1967 Ford Mustang / Falcon / Galaxie / Fairlane? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2895 - Release Date: 05/26/10 06:25:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 05:29:03 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 07:12:23 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Seat Adjustment Springs Replacement Hi all. When I had my seats restored, I noticed that some of the adjustment springs (to tilt and lean forward) were no good. Is there a source for replacement springs that anyone knows of? Also, are there part numbers for the right springs? I guess I should also ask if anyone has any extras laying around! Thanks. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 07:11:42 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Would U. Believe'" , Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 09:06:16 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Seat Adjustment Springs Replacement M The only part numbers I know of for these springs are the Rootes part numbers so not much help there. See the Alpine Parts Manual online at Tigers United, Section YX, Body Fittings. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 7:12 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Seat Adjustment Springs Replacement Hi all. When I had my seats restored, I noticed that some of the adjustment springs (to tilt and lean forward) were no good. Is there a source for replacement springs that anyone knows of? Also, are there part numbers for the right springs? I guess I should also ask if anyone has any extras laying around! Thanks. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2897 - Release Date: 05/26/10 06:25:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 07:52:10 2010 From: "Ross" To: , "'Would U. Believe'" Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 06:50:15 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Seat Adjustment Springs Replacement M, When I restored my seats I had the same problem. I took my broken spring to the local "ACE Hardware" store and found a match in length and diameter. You might try your local hardware store. Ross "Commodore Blues" Hulse Subject: Re: [Tigers] Seat Adjustment Springs Replacement M The only part numbers I know of for these springs are the Rootes part numbers so not much help there. See the Alpine Parts Manual online at Tigers United, Section YX, Body Fittings. Ron Fraser Subject: [Tigers] Seat Adjustment Springs Replacement Hi all. When I had my seats restored, I noticed that some of the adjustment springs (to tilt and lean forward) were no good. Is there a source for replacement springs that anyone knows of? Also, are there part numbers for the right springs? I guess I should also ask if anyone has any extras laying around! Thanks. M _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 08:24:50 2010 From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 10:25:36 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Not mine. _http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/1754869131.html_ (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/1754869131.html) _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 10:14:02 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 12:14:35 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Steering rack attachment Just curious, we are comparing 2 MKI's. One attaches the steering rack with studs and the other with bolts. And consensus on what was original? Mark L _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 10:22:21 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 12:22:16 EDT Subject: [Tigers] steering attachment Sorry, that should have been comparison on two MKIA's. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 10:29:41 2010 From: "Jim" To: , Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 09:30:23 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Steering rack attachment Hi Mark ...from the parts list... (actually the parts list supplement for the Sunbeam 260 ) part# 9003269 Bolt, 3/8" UNF. X 2" Wedglok - Rack to crossmember (4) Jim B382000446 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CoolVT@aol.com Sent: May 27, 2010 9:15 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Steering rack attachment Just curious, we are comparing 2 MKI's. One attaches the steering rack with studs and the other with bolts. And consensus on what was original? Mark L _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim@island.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 11:09:32 2010 From: To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 12:10:29 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Hardtop window trim clips Hello all, I have read the archives and understand how the center clips are supposed to be installed. I did as advised (installing the window, seal and trim together) but the clips I got with the trim absolutely do not work. I have ordered two clips from SS. I have also drilled and safety wired the trim pieced together so there is no way they will come loose. Question - when I install the center clips I want to use glue. How do you clamp them down while the glue sets and what type of glue did you use? Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 11:54:16 2010 From: To: tigers@autox.team.net, CoolVT@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 13:54:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Steering rack attachment ---- CoolVT@aol.com wrote: > Just curious, we are comparing 2 MKI's. One attaches the steering rack > with studs and the other with bolts. And consensus on what was original? > Mark L > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger@cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 12:24:58 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: rfraser@bluefrog.com Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 11:08:31 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Seat Adjustment Springs Replacement Alpine Parts List URL: http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/factory_parts_list/Alpine/alpine_part_list.asp Rootes Publication No. 6600992Plate B - Section YX #193 . This is for an Alpine S III (etc.) list. Rootes frequently issues Parts Lists for a model that contain only the items changed from prior model. If the Tiger Parts List is an addendum to teh Alpine Parts List. Also includes a cross-section of the rubber bits and pieces, metal spring steel bits. Sometimes outside sources part numbers are listed, as well. But, as has been pointed out, the Ford parts may have come from their "Industrial Division", and may not be the same as the Ford Automobile. So, if you are not taking some from an Alpine, the Part Number will not do much good. If you still have the originals, a good spring shop can make them for you. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Ron Fraser wrote: > M > The only part numbers I know of for these springs are the Rootes > part numbers so not much help there. > > See the Alpine Parts Manual online at Tigers United, Section YX, Body > Fittings. > > Ron Fraser _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 13:28:47 2010 From: "Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)" To: Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 15:28:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] 289 Dipstick (and 260 clutch) Questions There was a discussion about this just a month or so ago. Yes, you CAN replace the clutch without pulling the engine out. You have to disconnect the drivetrain, the transmission, slide it back, then lower the rear of the engine enough to unbolt the bellhousing. It comes apart like a clamshell and it's not pretty but I've done it once and I've seen the Jennings boys do it a couple times. There's a million details I don't remember. Since I now have a good 2 ton crane and plenty of jacks I just prefer to drop the engine/tranny out of the bottom. Bugz -----Original Message----- From: mcdangerous@verizon.net Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 2:54 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] 289 Dipstick (and 260 clutch) Questions Hi all. I'm just wrapping everything up before installing the Mk2 289 engine and HEH-CF transmission into my Mk1A. The car is still untouched with its original engine and transmission, being driven in its original configuration. The clutch is beginning to slip a bit, which would be the impetus to just install the 289 setup because I understand there are no adjustments for the 260 clutch and the engine has to be dropped to replace the clutch. THIS IS TRUE, RIGHT? Please let me know if the clutch can be worked on with the engine in the car (and what exactly is involved to do that). I will appreciate ANY advice re. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 14:06:52 2010 From: "Bill Waite" To: Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:01:29 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Soft Top Stowage: What a Fantastic List We Have! Thanks to everyone who replied to my request for information regarding the proper method for stowing the top. Within 1 hour, five (5) guys had responded... and eight (8) replies received in total. Just goes to show you: if you have a "Tiger" question and don't ask for help here... you are missing the boat. For those who didn't catch it... see the VIDEO made by Ross "Commodore Blues" Hulse that shows the proper method at this link: http://www.youtube.com/user/CommodoreBlues Thanks again to the Tiger List! Bill Waite ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Waite" To: Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 11:50 AM Subject: [Tigers] Request to Mark 1A and II Owners Re. Soft Top Stowage > Hoping one of you guys can help me. > > I put a new soft top on our Mark II (later style top). Then, > demonstrating my > uncanny ability for bad timing... I have somehow managed to misplace the > owner's manual. I want to stow (put down) the soft top properly. Can one > of > you guys scan the pages in the owner's manual that describes the > process... or > otherwise provide (or point me to) the process in sufficient detail to > help me > avoid damaging the top? > > Thanks in advance, > > Bill Waite > Grand Rapids, MI > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fordlandia@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 14:59:53 2010 From: "Alan Zeni" To: "tiger" Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 10:19:17 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Spam Did everyone else on the list get a spam email sent to their "tiger" email address, too? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu May 27 15:43:34 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: Alan Zeni Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 14:44:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Spam Not to this point in time.Perhaps you have a virus??????? TtT --- On Thu, 5/27/10, Alan Zeni wrote: From: Alan Zeni Subject: [Tigers] Spam To: "tiger" Date: Thursday, May 27, 2010, 12:19 PM Did everyone else on the list get a spam email sent to their "tiger" email address, too? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 28 08:08:36 2010 From: "Will Seay" To: , Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 10:07:19 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Steering rack attachment Mark, My 1A, 1570, attaches with bolts. Don't think I have ever seen a rack attached with studs. Will Seay - B382001570 ____________________ w_seay@embarqmail.com ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 12:14 PM Subject: [Tigers] Steering rack attachment > Just curious, we are comparing 2 MKI's. One attaches the steering rack > with studs and the other with bolts. And consensus on what was original? > Mark L _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 28 08:12:39 2010 From: "rande" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 10:13:29 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] tiger rental So, you're going to the south coast of the UK this summer, and the Hertz Fun Collection isn't available there, and you don't have friends there close enough who want to loan you their Tiger? Is that what's troubling you, bunkie? www.summerbreezeclassics.co.uk Go to www.ebay.co.uk and search for Sunbeam Tiger 1A for details And, no, I don't have a Tiger in this hunt, and yes, that bumble bee yellow painted Corvette at LAX will seem a bargain. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 28 09:14:10 2010 From: "Mike Michels" To: , "'Bill Waite'" , Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 08:15:03 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Request to Mark 1A and II Owners Re. Soft Top Stowage Ross' video really makes it understandable. I read the owners manual over and over and couldn't figure it out. Key thing that was missed was that you have to remove the sunvisors to close the latches. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fraser Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 9:11 AM To: 'Bill Waite'; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Request to Mark 1A and II Owners Re. Soft Top Stowage This email might help if the video is still there. Listers, I have put the 40Mb high res video on youtube. It is titled "Sunbeam Top Stowage". Ross "Commodore Blues" Hulse _______ Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Waite Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 11:51 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Request to Mark 1A and II Owners Re. Soft Top Stowage Hoping one of you guys can help me. I put a new soft top on our Mark II (later style top). Then, demonstrating my uncanny ability for bad timing... I have somehow managed to misplace the owner's manual. I want to stow (put down) the soft top properly. Can one of you guys scan the pages in the owner's manual that describes the process... or otherwise provide (or point me to) the process in sufficient detail to help me avoid damaging the top? Thanks in advance, Bill Waite Grand Rapids, MI _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2895 - Release Date: 05/26/10 06:25:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mmichels@socal.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 28 14:30:09 2010 From: "rsdslp@juno.com" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 20:29:33 GMT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad The reason commercial airplanes use nitrogen in their tire is to prevent tire explosions. As the tires heat up they out gas hydrocarbons which can then mix with any oxygen in the tire and ignite. Look up the Mexicana Airlines 727 crash on March 31, 1986. Attributed to a tire explosion in the wheel well caused by filling the tire with air coupled with overheated brakes. ____________________________________________________________ Try this Weight Loss Trick Simple weight loss secret to lose 12 pounds in 30 days http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c0027e14f461150256st04duc _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 28 15:26:31 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" To: "=?utf-8?B?cnNkc2xwQGp1bm8uY29t?=" ,tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 17:19:09 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Nitrogen_filled_tire_fad?= Also because of zero moisture. N doesn't expand like air so your pressure remains more stable due to n being inert. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "rsdslp@juno.com" Date: Fri, May 28, 2010 16:29 Subject: [Tigers] Nitrogen filled tire fad To: The reason commercial airplanes use nitrogen in their tire is to prevent tire explosions. As the tires heat up they out gas hydrocarbons which can then mix with any oxygen in the tire and ignite. Look up the Mexicana Airlines 727 crash on March 31, 1986. Attributed to a tire explosion in the wheel well caused by filling the tire with air coupled with overheated brakes. ____________________________________________________________ Try this Weight Loss Trick Simple weight loss secret to lose 12 pounds in 30 days http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c0027e14f461150256st04duc _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 29 16:30:29 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: Beamclub Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 15:27:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] throw out bearing noise?? Recently someone mentioned that a couple of Tigers had problems with TO bearings- I think it was at the spring fling in Indiana and Dave or another member gave a report of how good a time was had by all etc etc except for a couple of guys having the TO bearing problem. I'm running a Dale A. AMC conversion 5 speed, with a centerforce clutch and TOB. I had no problems driving from southern IL. to SUNI last year, going or coming but at Thanksgiving I drove from southern IL. to Charleston, WVa around 500 miles, one way. I usually plan my trips to enjoy night time driving as I-64 in Louisville and Lexington can become stop and go during rush hour traffic but I missed my original departure time and hit stop and go in Louisville. That was my first sign I had a loud problem that sounded transmission related. I had come to a stop in a clover leaf area, so I just pulled off to the side- only a Sunbeam would have had enough room- by luck a state maintance truck, who drives around helping people who break down was right behind me. He turned on his lights and we jacked up the right rear of the car. He thought the noise was in the rear end and I had just replaced bearings prior to Suni,So I already had shim questions on my mind.But the loud, almost grinding like noise sounded further forward than the rear end while setting in the car. The kid was pretty young but his main job was to assist if he could and get a wrecker otherwise. He had me exit, gave me directions to a couple place close by and left. I drove the car to both places. One a closed mechanic shop, the other a closed junk yard. The noise had disappeared, so I continued driving east, with no more problems until I exited I-64 to the area my sisters home is located. The next day (Sat) I went to the gas station that does my sisters mechanical thievery, I mean work and had the rear lube drained, which I had just done prior to Suni and inspected it by catching it with a funnel shaped a flour sifter- nothing but what appeared to be slightly used gear lube went thru the screen- I had no pieces of debris of any kind- IF there was any, it was not large enough to be caught in the screen . Long story- might need to be sent in two emails in order to post. I wanted to see if the TOBs where the same as the clutch, which came in the box with the replacement clutch and if they are the same brand as mine. Thanks for understanding the long post and any help returned. TonytheTiger _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 29 17:00:16 2010 From: Dave Munroe To: Tony Somebody , Beamclub Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 19:55:20 -0300 Subject: Re: [Tigers] throw out bearing noise?? Tony: Funny you should mention TOB's now. I am in the process of re-installing my engine after a removal to correct some problems from a previous engine build. At that time I had fitted a Centerforce I clutch and TOB. After about 8,000 miles, both the flywheel and pressure plate had plenty of signs of overheating, with a surface color change and lots of work-hardened spots and score marks. So I had the flywheel re-surfaced and am in the process of fitting a Centerforce 2 clutch and plate. Comparing the Centerforce TOB and what I think is an original Ford bearing, the CF looks a tad anemic. It has a self-centering bearing, (which would be good if the bell-housing was not set accurately for parallel and center), but is much smaller than the (original) Ford which has a larger bearing surface and and a grease fitting. It also "feels" a lot tighter and more stable. I'd like to hear others' experience with the CF TO Bearing. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Somebody" To: "Beamclub" Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 7:27 PM Subject: [Tigers] throw out bearing noise?? > Recently someone mentioned that a couple of Tigers had problems with TO > bearings- I think it was at the spring fling in Indiana and Dave or > another > member gave a report of how good a time was had by all etc etc except for > a > couple of guys having the TO bearing problem. > I'm running a Dale A. AMC conversion 5 speed, with a centerforce clutch > and > TOB. I had no problems driving from southern IL. to SUNI last year, going > or > coming but at Thanksgiving I drove from southern IL. to Charleston, WVa > around > 500 miles, one way. I usually plan my trips to enjoy night time driving as > I-64 in Louisville and Lexington can become stop and go during rush hour > traffic but I missed my original departure time and hit stop and go in > Louisville. That was my first sign I had a loud problem that sounded > transmission related. I had come to a stop in a clover leaf area, so I > just > pulled off to the side- only a Sunbeam would have had enough room- by luck > a > state maintance truck, who drives around helping people who break down was > right behind me. He turned on his lights and we jacked up the right rear > of > the car. He thought the noise was in the rear end and I had just replaced > bearings prior to Suni,So I already had shim questions on my > mind.But the loud, almost grinding like noise sounded further forward than > the rear end while setting in the car. The kid was pretty young but his > main > job was to assist if he could and get a wrecker otherwise. He had me exit, > gave me directions to a couple place close by and left. I drove the car to > both places. One a closed mechanic shop, the other a closed junk yard. The > noise had disappeared, so I continued driving east, with no more problems > until I exited I-64 to the area my sisters home is located. The next day > (Sat) > I went to the gas station that does my sisters mechanical thievery, I mean > work and had the rear lube drained, which I had just done prior to Suni > and > inspected it by catching it with a funnel shaped a flour sifter- nothing > but > what appeared to be slightly used gear lube went thru the screen- I had no > pieces of debris of any kind- IF there was any, it was not large enough to > be > caught in the screen . Long story- might need to be > sent in two emails in order to post. I wanted to see if the TOBs where the > same as the clutch, which came in the box with the replacement clutch and > if > they are the same brand as mine. Thanks for understanding the long post > and > any help returned. > TonytheTiger _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 30 00:00:53 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: Beamclub Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 22:59:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Fw: Re: throw out bearing noise?? , May 29, 2010, 11:20 PM Dave and List- I think my problem, l thought interment, is the CF TO bearing. I don't believe tranny noise would go away. IF something in the tranny was the culprit, I believe it would only get worse. I didn't mention it as my earlier post was so long but I had encountered this problem once before. I had driven about 70 miles to visit a friend for a few days and return w/ his son to help me do some work my back and heart keep me from doing- I remember now it was after SUNI as I hurt my knee- slipped at the pool in our main motel AFTER we had checked out. The rock tile was very slick and I have a slight tear in my right ACL. One more step to the lounge chair as I was killing time until the banquet, while reading a good novel- my knee went almost out of place and I was in severe pain BUT I really wasn't suppose to be there in reality. I don't know if others remember but the floor was so slick I couldn't believe they hadn't had a law suit as I saw a couple small children running and falling (not from our group, to young LOL) and I was being very careful as I knew a fall would hurt this overweight body, already in bad physical condition--- as I said, ONE more step and then my foot slipped, twisting the bad knee- 3 weeks later I finally had a shot of cortisone and the pain went away. I will not wait for a shot if it happens again and the original Dr. felt at my age I should live with the tear in the ACL. I wont wish him bad luck but if I'm ever in his office again, we will discuss the fact he should have repaired my knee. MEANWHILE, back to the CF TO bearing. I don't want to pull the engine just to change the TO bearing but I'm planning a trip back to WVa this fall and I believe I better fix it before traveling over 1000 miles round trip and I will be doing lots of shifting in the mountains. I am like Dave, I think a good original Ford TOB will be my choice, if I can locate one thru the dealerships or the Mustang people. If none of our guys have them. I also recommend anyone installing a CF clutch, which I'm very happy with, to check into a better TO bearing. TtT _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 30 17:46:42 2010 From: "Joe Brown" To: Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 18:42:08 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Upper Ball Joint Hey, I recently bought some upper ball joints from Sunbeam Specialties and I have a couple of questions. The shop manual shows a circlip that snaps into a groove after you press the ball joint into the A-arm. These clips didn't come with the ball joints. Is this a common item I should be able to get locally? Second question: The large end of the rubber boot is held in place by a wire ring but there is nothing on the small end. There is a groove in the rubber on the small end like it is made for some type of clip. When I shot some grease into the ball joint it started oozing out from under the boot on the small end. Should I have some type of clip on that end of the boot? Thanks, Joe Brown Arlington, TX B382000217 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 30 19:01:35 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Joe Brown Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 17:55:26 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Upper Ball Joint Joe, and Tigers, There are a number of suggestions on replacing upper ball joints in the Technical Tips section of retained e-mails: http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/tech_threads/tt-frontsusp.asp From *Bob Palmer*'s post: /Some from this thread: "Glad you asked this question Jim, because I have an excellent answer. Go to your local *Toyota dealer *and get two *"Dust Seals" part number 45479-30030. *When I bought two in June of '96 they cost $7.99 each. Even if you buy new upper ball joints, throw the original boots away and get these. They will last a whole lot longer than the notoriously bad British rubber that comes with their upper ball joints (as your experience confirms). If you want lower ball joint boots, try the ones for a Type II VW bus, part number 211405-375. Again, these are much better than what originally comes with the lower ball joints. Now, I could also give you a link with the word "ball joint" in the URL, but you all know how dangerous that could be. However, don't let me inhibit you from trying it on your own. Bob/ Other references can be found with the "SEARCH" engine, hot-linked on every page, on the top menu bar. First, I would check out Sunbeam Specialties for their latest offerings: http://www.rootes.com/ and Curt's Classic Sunbeam Auto Parts: http://classicsunbeam.com/ "Seek, and ye shall find" Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Joe Brown wrote: > Hey, > > I recently bought some upper ball joints from Sunbeam Specialties and I have > a couple of questions. The shop manual shows a circlip that snaps into a > groove after you press the ball joint into the A-arm. These clips didn't > come with the ball joints. Is this a common item I should be able to get > locally? Second question: The large end of the rubber boot is held in > place by a wire ring but there is nothing on the small end. There is a > groove in the rubber on the small end like it is made for some type of clip. > When I shot some grease into the ball joint it started oozing out from under > the boot on the small end. Should I have some type of clip on that end of > the boot? > > Thanks, > > Joe Brown > Arlington, TX > B38200021 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 02:31:26 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: tigers@autox.team.net, Joe Brown Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 01:31:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Upper Ball Joint Joe, not sure about the circlips, but SS should have an answer IF you can catch Rick as his employee is also Rick. Seems to me the last ones I installed came with the circlips BUT my memory isnt very good. The grease coming out. If it didnt come out, was sealed, you would burst the ruber boot when greasing, as you wouldnt know the joint was full, so the design allows grease to squirt out once it is full of lube. I would imangine the ball joint was prelubed and therefore you saw grease rather quickly.Also if the prementioned rubber is still available with provided part numbers I think it would be a good investment. TonytheTiger --- On Sun, 5/30/10, Joe Brown wrote: From: Joe Brown Subject: [Tigers] Upper Ball Joint To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sunday, May 30, 2010, 6:42 PM Hey, I recently bought some upper ball joints from Sunbeam Specialties and I have a couple of questions. The shop manual shows a circlip that snaps into a groove after you press the ball joint into the A-arm. These clips didn't come with the ball joints. Is this a common item I should be able to get locally? Second question: The large end of the rubber boot is held in place by a wire ring but there is nothing on the small end. There is a groove in the rubber on the small end like it is made for some type of clip. When I shot some grease into the ball joint it started oozing out from under the boot on the small end. Should I have some type of clip on that end of the boot? Thanks, Joe Brown Arlington, TX B382000217 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 02:34:14 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: Beamclub Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 01:35:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] attention Tom Hall Tom- Ive misplaced your card and I want to talk to you. Please send me your number off list.Im on cst and prefer to call after 9 p.m. my time but later isnt a problem. Thanks, Tony _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 09:33:21 2010 From: larryall@pacbell.net To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 08:32:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Throwout bearing noise I had a TO premature failure. It was a CF two piece self centering. It lasted probably 1000 miles over 4 years. I felt no pulsing in the pedal but did have the noise of mechanicals not lubricated. 2 years ago it was replaced with a single piece from Federal-Mogul. Part #FB-1625-C So far no problems but the bearing has maybe 300 miles on it so I will have to see over time. Message: 2 Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 19:55:20 -0300 From: Dave Munroe Subject: Re: [Tigers] throw out bearing noise?? To: Tony Somebody , Beamclub Message-ID: <9E6E4E7BE00545A289937AED1350340E@DavePC> Content-Type: text/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII; format=flowed; reply-type=original Tony: Funny you should mention TOB's now. I am in the process of re-installing my engine after a removal to correct some problems from a previous engine build. At that time I had fitted a Centerforce I clutch and TOB. After about 8,000 miles, both the flywheel and pressure plate had plenty of signs of overheating, with a surface color change and lots of work-hardened spots and score marks. So I had the flywheel re-surfaced and am in the process of fitting a Centerforce 2 clutch and plate. Comparing the Centerforce TOB and what I think is an original Ford bearing, the CF looks a tad anemic. It has a self-centering bearing, (which would be good if the bell-housing was not set accurately for parallel and center), but is much smaller than the (original) Ford which has a larger bearing surface and and a grease fitting. It also "feels" a lot tighter and more stable. I'd like to hear others' experience with the CF TO Bearing. Dave _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 10:05:33 2010 From: Tom Parker To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 12:06:12 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Clutch cylinder rod adjustment There's been lots of talk about throwout bearings. I wonder... Is there a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder? The original slave push rod in my Tiger was a cut off carriage bolt. When I replaced the clutch the first time it lasted less than a year. My theory at the time (1984) was the slave cylinder was sticking, so I installed a "return spring" on the pivot arm. It worked until the car was "de-comissioned" around 1995. Now that I'm in the process of restoring the car I bought the proper push rod from Rick at SS. To my surprise, it's adjustable! A good thing except.... there is no mention of the adjustment in the workshop manual. So.... any thoughts on adjusting the clutch push rod? My inclination is to lengthen the rod until the slave cylinder piston is pushed back as far as it will go. but I may run out of threads before that. The next alternative is to adjust the rod for proper clutch engagement (starts to engage a bit off the floor, fully engaged with pedal "slack" travel at the top. About the same as with my '57 Ford in 1963. A bit of guidance will be much appreciated. I have no desire to pull the engine again. Tom '67 Tiger 2 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 12:27:24 2010 From: Carmods@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 14:15:02 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] throw out bearing noise?? To, TonytheTiger, To eliminate the noise, you can drill and tap it with a 1/8 pipe tap and insert a Zerk fitting. Then give it a few shots of grease. That's for the knee problem of course. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 13:03:20 2010 From: Paul.Tonizzo@sybase.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 14:58:26 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 233 Hydraulic clutch slaves are self-adjusting and a return spring is not needed (at least that's what other British cars do). The piston moves up the bore as the clutch wears. So just fit a pushrod that almost bottoms out the piston to start. Paul > Subject: [Tigers] Clutch cylinder rod adjustment > There's been lots of talk about throwout bearings. I wonder... > > Is there a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder? > > The original slave push rod in my Tiger was a cut off carriage bolt. When I > replaced the clutch the first time it lasted less than a year. My theory at > the time (1984) was the slave cylinder was sticking, so I installed a > "return spring" on the pivot arm. It worked until the car was > "de-comissioned" around 1995. Now that I'm in the process of restoring the > car I bought the proper push rod from Rick at SS. To my surprise, it's > adjustable! A good thing except.... there is no mention of the adjustment in > the workshop manual. > > So.... any thoughts on adjusting the clutch push rod? My inclination is to > lengthen the rod until the slave cylinder piston is pushed back as far as it > will go. but I may run out of threads before that. The next alternative is > to adjust the rod for proper clutch engagement (starts to engage a bit off > the floor, fully engaged with pedal "slack" travel at the top. About the > same as with my '57 Ford in 1963. > > A bit of guidance will be much appreciated. I have no desire to pull the > engine again. > > Tom > '67 Tiger 2 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 14:34:39 2010 From: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" To: "'Tom Parker'" , Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 15:25:24 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch cylinder rod adjustment List, My understanding of clutch adjustment is that when the clutch is all the way out, the TB must not be touching the fingers of the clutch. If they are, than early burnout is inevitable. The TB bearing is NOT designed to spin all of the time, only when the clutch is engaged. The way I adjust a clutch is to have the slave completely compressed, then adjust the adjustable rod, so that when the return spring bottoms out the slave, there is still just enough slack in the fork that you can feel that the bearing is not touching the clutch fingers. If you cannot move the fork for and aft (or up and down) just a little with your fingers, It's too tight. If you don't start with the slave totally compressed you might push the slave piston out of the cyl. It only moves a short distance to begin with, so best to start at the very end. Also remember the return spring (connected to the clutch fork) is what returns the piston (and clutch pedal) to the start position, not the clutch springs, they will return it only as far as when the clutch is fully engaged. Some guys like to sit at a light and continue holding the clutch down for the whole time, I prefer not to do this just because it puts more strain on the TB. Just my thoughts. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Parker Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 11:06 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Clutch cylinder rod adjustment There's been lots of talk about throwout bearings. I wonder... Is there a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder? The original slave push rod in my Tiger was a cut off carriage bolt. When I replaced the clutch the first time it lasted less than a year. My theory at the time (1984) was the slave cylinder was sticking, so I installed a "return spring" on the pivot arm. It worked until the car was "de-comissioned" around 1995. Now that I'm in the process of restoring the car I bought the proper push rod from Rick at SS. To my surprise, it's adjustable! A good thing except.... there is no mention of the adjustment in the workshop manual. So.... any thoughts on adjusting the clutch push rod? My inclination is to lengthen the rod until the slave cylinder piston is pushed back as far as it will go. but I may run out of threads before that. The next alternative is to adjust the rod for proper clutch engagement (starts to engage a bit off the floor, fully engaged with pedal "slack" travel at the top. About the same as with my '57 Ford in 1963. A bit of guidance will be much appreciated. I have no desire to pull the engine again. Tom '67 Tiger 2 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 15:23:30 2010 From: drmayf To: Paul.Tonizzo@sybase.com Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 14:23:57 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 233 Paul, let me chime in here on your thread... no criticism of your message... Cars from teh era of our Sunbeams had mechanical clutch actuation schemes. her was a cross bar with a couple of levers and a big return spring. Clutches were adjusted so that the clutch pedal has a bit if free play at teh foot. Not much but always some. That was to keep the throwout bearing from riding continously on the clutch forks. Our throw out bearing were not intended to runn on teh clutch fingers full time. Now along comes Sunbeam and probably others. They used the hydraulic clutch actuation system because getting a mechanical clap trap to work would heva been difficult at best. So hydraulic was really good for making them work. But, the hydraulic versions keep teh throw out bearing surface in constant contact with the clutch fingers. Thats why they wore out and make lots of racket in teh olden days. I had to replace mine a time or two and indeed every time I had the engine out, I changed that sucker. Todays clutches and throw out bearings generally have a higher tolerance for running in full contact. So if replacing, try and get a hydraulic throwout bearing designed to run in full contact all the time. Ditto for the clutch fingers. And you'll be a happier camper... mayf Paul.Tonizzo@sybase.com wrote: >Hydraulic clutch slaves are self-adjusting and a return spring is not >needed (at least that's what other British cars do). The piston moves up >the bore as the clutch wears. So just fit a pushrod that almost bottoms >out the piston to start. > >Paul > > > >>Subject: [Tigers] Clutch cylinder rod adjustment >>There's been lots of talk about throwout bearings. I wonder... >> >>Is there a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder? >> >>The original slave push rod in my Tiger was a cut off carriage bolt. >> >> >When I > > >>replaced the clutch the first time it lasted less than a year. My theory >> >> >at > > >>the time (1984) was the slave cylinder was sticking, so I installed a >>"return spring" on the pivot arm. It worked until the car was >>"de-comissioned" around 1995. Now that I'm in the process of restoring >> >> >the > > >>car I bought the proper push rod from Rick at SS. To my surprise, it's >>adjustable! A good thing except.... there is no mention of the >> >> >adjustment in > > >>the workshop manual. >> >>So.... any thoughts on adjusting the clutch push rod? My inclination is >> >> >to > > >>lengthen the rod until the slave cylinder piston is pushed back as far >> >> >as it > > >>will go. but I may run out of threads before that. The next alternative >> >> >is > > >>to adjust the rod for proper clutch engagement (starts to engage a bit >> >> >off > > >>the floor, fully engaged with pedal "slack" travel at the top. About the >>same as with my '57 Ford in 1963. >> >>A bit of guidance will be much appreciated. I have no desire to pull the >>engine again. >> >>Tom >>'67 Tiger 2 >> >> >_______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 15:34:50 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: "drmayf@mayfco.com" , "Paul.Tonizzo@sybase.com" Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 16:33:11 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 233 Hi all, Just to add another datapoint on old-school hydraulic clutches: Japanese cars with hydraulic clutches of that era (at least the 70's) had a return spring on the clutch slave cylinder to ensure that the throwout bearing would disengage from the clutch fingers. An adjustable pushrod on the slave cylinder let you set the amount of initial free play, which would decrease as the clutch wore. Typically you'd set it so that there was about an inch of pedal movement before the throwout bearing contacted the diaphragm spring. This would translate to maybe 1/8 to 3/16" at the throwout bearing. The PO's mechanic had fitted a return spring to my Tiger's clutch fork. It hooked over the clutch release fork at one end, and was hooked through a washer that was welded to a header primary tube on the other end. Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of drmayf > Sent: May 31, 2010 3:24 PM > To: Paul.Tonizzo@sybase.com > Cc: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 233 > > Paul, let me chime in here on your thread... no criticism of your > message... > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 17:21:46 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: Carmods@aol.com Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 16:17:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] throw out bearing noise?? John- the knee has plenty of play but I like the zerk idea, now instead of grease I need a substance to take up the slack in the knee.Maybe some blue silicone that will setup but be pliable enough to allow use. A zerk on the TO bearing is a great idea . I'm told old Ford ones had a zerk and Dave Munroe has checked and reports that there is room to get a hose or tube and fitting thru the clutch arm hole to grease the bearing. I'm planning on starting at a Ford dealership, then the Mustang guys to try to find an old type. I plan on calling Tom Hall tonight as I'm told he recommends a Centerforce TO bearing and I know he has a good reason and too there was a part number, so it might be one that is hydraulic and does away with our slave cylinder. I will know later. THANKS for the kneezerk idea. LOL TtT --- On Mon, 5/31/10, Carmods@aol.com wrote: From: Carmods@aol.com Subject: Re: [Tigers] throw out bearing noise?? To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Monday, May 31, 2010, 1:15 PM To, TonytheTiger, To eliminate the noise, you can drill and tap it with a 1/8 pipe tap and insert a Zerk fitting. Then give it a few shots of grease. That's for the knee problem of course. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 19:06:22 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: "'Tony Somebody'" , Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 20:02:41 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] throw out bearing noise?? I think that the zerk to grease the TO bearing is a perfect way to sling grease on your clutch. I would not do it. Is there a super heavy-duty Ford racing TOB? Duke B382002037 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Somebody Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 6:18 PM To: Carmods@aol.com Cc: Beamclub Subject: Re: [Tigers] throw out bearing noise?? John- the knee has plenty of play but I like the zerk idea, now instead of grease I need a substance to take up the slack in the knee.Maybe some blue silicone that will setup but be pliable enough to allow use. A zerk on the TO bearing is a great idea . I'm told old Ford ones had a zerk and Dave Munroe has checked and reports that there is room to get a hose or tube and fitting thru the clutch arm hole to grease the bearing. I'm planning on starting at a Ford dealership, then the Mustang guys to try to find an old type. I plan on calling Tom Hall tonight as I'm told he recommends a Centerforce TO bearing and I know he has a good reason and too there was a part number, so it might be one that is hydraulic and does away with our slave cylinder. I will know later. THANKS for the kneezerk idea. LOL TtT --- On Mon, 5/31/10, Carmods@aol.com wrote: From: Carmods@aol.com Subject: Re: [Tigers] throw out bearing noise?? To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Monday, May 31, 2010, 1:15 PM To, TonytheTiger, To eliminate the noise, you can drill and tap it with a 1/8 pipe tap and insert a Zerk fitting. Then give it a few shots of grease. That's for the knee problem of course. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 19:20:35 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 20:15:02 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Racing Throwout Bearing Anyone try one of these - M-7548-A - Ford Racing Throwout Bearings http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford-Racing/397/M-7548-A/10002/-1?parentProductId=7633 93 Duke B382002037 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carmods@aol.com Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 1:15 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] throw out bearing noise?? To, TonytheTiger, To eliminate the noise, you can drill and tap it with a 1/8 pipe tap and insert a Zerk fitting. Then give it a few shots of grease. That's for the knee problem of course. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 31 20:20:52 2010 From: Bill Martin To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 19:15:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Jim Adams at Tigers United Happy Memorial Day Tiger fans. For those of you who havent heard or are on the fence concerning attending Tigers United in Santa Rosa I submit: Jim Adams will be in attendance and will guest speak on Saturday night, he will also be reunited with the Hollywood Sport Cars Tiger courtesy of Mr Dave Stone, Jim will also be reunited with the Hollywood Sport Cars Mclaren Mk1 courtesy of Mr Chad Raynal, and the Dekon Monza courtesy of Mr Ken Epsman. For those who don't know who Jim Adams is, he was the driver of pretty much every car that Doane Spencer built for Hollywood Sport Cars and his SCCA driver number was 55. Also attending is Mr Cris Vandagriff, son of Hollywood Sport Cars owner Chic Vandagriff. Cris is the owner of The Historic Motorsports Association (HMSA) We will also be hosting Doana and Wendy, Doane's Daughters. Putting this together has not been without challenges and will probably not happen again. So join us at Tigers United for this historic event. Bill Martin _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums