From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 00:54:06 2010 From: "Al Fudge" To: "'Tom Parker'" Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 23:48:35 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post Tom, I'm in Issaquah, Washington, about 10 miles east of Seattle on I90. I thought about dipping, but I would lose the TAC decal and probably the VIN plate. Al From: Tom Parker [mailto:tkparker1941@gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 5:15 PM To: Al Fudge Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post Al, I bead blasted mine. If I had it to do all over I think I'd have it dipped. There were seams that weren't cleaned out enough. It may have been an operator problem, but I suspect it's just the way bead blasting is. I have an AutoTwirler rotisserie and I like it. We made custom Sunbeam mounts that use the jack holes and bumper bolts. It worked really well except when the body was finally straight they had to "adjust" the brackets. Sadly the brackets are no more; they didn't make it back from the body shop. Tom Just for grins, where are you located? I'm in Georgia. On Wed, Jun 30, 2010 at 6:42 PM, Al Fudge wrote: I have a couple of questions for the community. I am 99.5% done with dissassembling my MK1. It needs some rust repair and I am considering having the shell soda blasted. Any comments on the relative merits of soda blasting over bead or sand blasting? I want to strip the shell to bare metal so I can determine the extent of the required repairs, and there will be more than a few. Also, what about rotisseries? I have looked at the Auto twirler, but are there any others to consider? I don't want to build one; I'd rather buy a complete one. Thanks, Al B9471635 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 04:13:59 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 05:14:28 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Hose_me?= Anyone have current upper and lower radiator hose numbers? I had some numbers that worked a few years ago, but the new parts house (run by children with computers) can't seem to reference them. This is the same crew who once asked if my '65 GTO was a Ford....but I digress.... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Robin Young" Date: Wed, Jun 30, 2010 22:59 Subject: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post To: "'Al Fudge'" , Al, if your car has undercoat, it is very hard to remove completely unless you dip. I used a ceramic bead blast on the body and still had to hand rub the undercoat areas to remove it. As to the rotisserie, I found that using two engine stands and modifying them was a very cheap way to go. Using the jack holes in combination with the bumper bolt holes worked well. Robin Young _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 05:59:07 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: , Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 07:59:11 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hose me Spook I just got mine in the mail from Sunbeam Specialties, cut and ready to go for a price I think was better than locating, buy and cutting them myself. Here are some numbers others have listed: Upper Dayco 627 NAPA 7459 Dayco 70627 Dayco 71015 Dayco CH666 Lower Ford KM178 NAPA 7746 Gates 21034 Gates 20753 Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01@comcast.net Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 6:14 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Hose me Anyone have current upper and lower radiator hose numbers? I had some numbers that worked a few years ago, but the new parts house (run by children with computers) can't seem to reference them. This is the same crew who once asked if my '65 GTO was a Ford....but I digress.... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Robin Young" Date: Wed, Jun 30, 2010 22:59 Subject: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post To: "'Al Fudge'" , Al, if your car has undercoat, it is very hard to remove completely unless you dip. I used a ceramic bead blast on the body and still had to hand rub the undercoat areas to remove it. As to the rotisserie, I found that using two engine stands and modifying them was a very cheap way to go. Using the jack holes in combination with the bumper bolt holes worked well. Robin Young _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2972 - Release Date: 06/30/10 06:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 06:12:18 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 08:03:40 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Hose clamp Does anyone have a source and part # for the Original style 1/2" band clamp for the water valve hoses to the heater core and temp sender? Thanks for your help Ron _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 06:24:28 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Tom Parker'" Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 08:19:45 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post Tom I don't always know more but I will raise concern when I see a possible problem. The jacking points maybe fine for lifting vertically but put a side load on them and I raise a concern. I have seen many a jacking point that is bent and it is not very hard to push then around with a bit of leverage. The main idea here is to work safely and not have you or the car crushed unexpectedly for lack of forethought. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: Tom Parker [mailto:tkparker1941@gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 12:35 AM To: rfraser@bluefrog.com Cc: Al Fudge; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post Ron, The Alpine / Tiger jack will lift a wheel off the ground with the engine in the car. (I have more faith in the mounts than the jack...) It's over. The car spent 6 months on and off the rotisserie and body cart during the rebuild. No engine or rear end, just the body shell. Same mounts. No problems. If the jack is part of the same frame assembly as the cross member it should be close to being as strong. The bolt is far from small, 1/2" UNF. Besides, how does one attach the rear; you need both to flip the car. I hesitate to disagree with someone who probably knows more than I do, so I'll leave it this way: it worked for me. No guarantees that it'll work for anyone else. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 06:26:07 2010 From: mike schreiner To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 05:26:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Hose Clamps Here you go... http://www.tractorpart.com/john_deere_cooling_hose_clamp.htm _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 07:24:08 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'mike schreiner'" , Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 09:18:30 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hose Clamps Mike This is a good source for double wire clamps as is Moss Motors and englishparts.com. Double wire clamps are not what I'm asking for; I'm looking for, as Norm Miller describes them, the 1/2" English Band clamp used at the water valve for the 1/2" hoses from the temp sender to the valve, the valve to the heater core and the heater core to the T connection. I have done several searches for this part and come up empty; I hope someone on the list had better luck. Thanks for the help Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mike schreiner Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:27 AM To: Tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Hose Clamps Here you go... http://www.tractorpart.com/john_deere_cooling_hose_clamp.htm _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2972 - Release Date: 06/30/10 06:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 07:39:14 2010 From: To: Tigers@autox.team.net, rfraser@bluefrog.com Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 8:35:43 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hose Clamps Hey Ron, I have some 1965 fuel from england you can put in your tank. Duke ---- Ron Fraser wrote: > Mike > This is a good source for double wire clamps as is Moss Motors and > englishparts.com. > > Double wire clamps are not what I'm asking for; I'm looking for, as > Norm Miller describes them, the 1/2" English Band clamp used at the water > valve for the 1/2" hoses from the temp sender to the valve, the valve to the > heater core and the heater core to the T connection. > > I have done several searches for this part and come up empty; I hope > someone on the list had better luck. > > Thanks for the help > > Ron Fraser _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 07:54:49 2010 From: Carmods@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 09:55:21 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Cooling Hoses Hi Spook, According to my records, The Tiger cooling hoses can be made from the following. Upper Dayco 627 NAPA 7459 Dayco 70627 Dayco 71015 Dayco CH 666 Lower Ford KM 178 NAPA 7746 or 7776 or 8205 Gates 20753 or 21034 Autozone M-065. Expansion Tank NAPA 8205 Dayco 71218 or 70531 Discount or Advance Auto Parts C 71218. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 08:08:52 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: , Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 10:00:03 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hose Clamps Ahhhh the sweet aroma of stale hydrocarbons. :) Ron -----Original Message----- From: wsamouce@kc.rr.com [mailto:wsamouce@kc.rr.com] Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:36 AM To: Tigers@autox.team.net; rfraser@bluefrog.com Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hose Clamps Hey Ron, I have some 1965 fuel from england you can put in your tank. Duke ---- Ron Fraser wrote: > Mike > This is a good source for double wire clamps as is Moss Motors and > englishparts.com. > > Double wire clamps are not what I'm asking for; I'm looking for, as > Norm Miller describes them, the 1/2" English Band clamp used at the > water valve for the 1/2" hoses from the temp sender to the valve, the > valve to the heater core and the heater core to the T connection. > > I have done several searches for this part and come up empty; I hope > someone on the list had better luck. > > Thanks for the help > > Ron Fraser > No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2972 - Release Date: 06/30/10 06:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 08:55:24 2010 From: "John Dillman" To: Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 09:50:48 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post I have a Direct Lift rotisserie, and like it fine, especially for the price. Mine came from Greg Smith Equipment. I have some angst over the Chinese origin of it, but I don't guess the demise of American manufacturing rests solely on my shoulders. . . . I would echo most of the comments on paint removal. Sandblasting destroys too much, even if you are good. Bead blasting is better. Soda might be even better (so it costs more). Dipping is great, except for seams and hidden areas. My '70 280sl will probably get dipped, once I stop working on the new house, as it has a lot of undercoating that the other methods won't touch. Good luck! John Dillman _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 08:56:11 2010 From: Gyroplanes@aol.com To: spook01@comcast.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 10:56:35 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hose me In a message dated 7/1/2010 5:16:11 AM Central Daylight Time, spook01@comcast.net writes: I had some numbers that worked a few years ago, but the new parts house (run by children with computers) can't seem to reference them. This is the same crew who once asked if my '65 GTO was a Ford....but I digress.... I had the same "kids with computers" experience, but mine was more laughable. I was seeking shock absorbers for a 93 Mustang, the lad couldn't find them. He turned the computer to me and he was in "electrical systems". Probably made sense to him. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 09:39:08 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: , Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 11:31:57 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hose clamp I seem to have stumped the panel, so far anyway, with this one but it is early yet. Most likely I have confused people. Here is a web site that clarifies type of hose clamps. http://www.croberts.com/hose.htm The stock Tiger engine bay uses a combination of Fig 1; double wire, Fig 2; Band, Fig 3; Ford Tower style, Fig 5; single wire hose clamps. I'm looking for the clamp similar to Fig 2; band clamp for the 1/2" hoses at the water valve. It is very possible the they are NLA; exactly what I'm trying to determine. Thanks Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fraser Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:04 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Hose clamp Does anyone have a source and part # for the Original style 1/2" band clamp for the water valve hoses to the heater core and temp sender? Thanks for your help Ron _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2972 - Release Date: 06/30/10 06:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 09:39:40 2010 From: "Robin Young" To: "'Al Fudge'" , "'Al Fudge'" Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 11:34:40 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post -----Original Message----- From: Al Fudge [mailto:AFudge@airtest.us] Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 2:56 AM To: Robin Young; Al Fudge; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post Al, A really good body guy installed eight body panels on my car while it was on the rotisserie. Afterwards, we hauled it to the bead blaster on the rotisserie and used the ceramic beads to remove paint and rust to bare metal. The beads just moved the undercoat around. It took chemicals and rubbing to remove it. Tim Ronack coached me through the paint process and pointed out steel from this era was very prone to rust. New bonding primers, (he called them wash primers) chemically bond to well prepared steel and protect the steel better than the building primer that goes on next and makes the building primer adhere better so moisture cannot cause rust under paint as was the case originally. The undercoat you asked about is actually only stuck to a one step factory paint. RObin Robin, Two engine stands is an idea I hadn't thought of. Makes sense. The undercoat has been bothering me; would the blasting remove it (apparently not) and what is it hiding? I was advised by Larry Atkisson, after he looked at the car, to sell the it and buy another one to avoid the repairs (he was very diplomatic about it). I was unable to sell it, and decided instead, against his better judgement to attempt to have it repaired. After all it is a Tiger and I have always wanted one. We'll see how it turns out. Al _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 09:53:54 2010 From: "Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)" To: Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 11:49:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Cooling Hoses Just make sure that the bottom hose you buy has the internal spring support included. Otherwise it will collapse due to the heat and suction and can starve your engine of vital coolant. Save your old hoses if just for the internal spring support. -----Original Message----- From: Carmods@aol.com Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:55 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Cooling Hoses Hi Spook, According to my records, The Tiger cooling hoses can be made from the following. Upper Dayco 627 NAPA 7459 Dayco 70627 Dayco 71015 Dayco CH 666 Lower Ford KM 178 NAPA 7746 or 7776 or 8205 Gates 20753 or 21034 Autozone M-065. Expansion Tank NAPA 8205 Dayco 71218 or 70531 Discount or Advance Auto Parts C 71218. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 10:38:43 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 09:30:58 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post The rotisserie I wound up using was simple and very low cost. It is known as the "Satellite" rotisserie. The mounting points are not questionable. One simple puts the car on jackstands (located on sturdy frame rails). Then you (the satellite) rotate around the car to perform the needed tasks. This offers a number of advantages beyond the low cost. With the typical rotisserie one needs to stand/stoop over it all day. With the satellite rotisserie half the tasks can be preformed comfortably lying on your back. When working outdoors this also provides a secondary benefit - shade! While the drawback to the satellite rotisserie is falling debris, one should be wearing a full face mask anyway. A shower at the end of the day should also be required regardless of the rotisserie type. There are psychological perception disadvantages to the typical rotisserie as well. The wife may be incline to see your "skewered" car and be thinking you should be BBQ-ing rather than working on your car. The kids may be inclined to see a rotating axis and pester you to go to the local carnival and get on the twisting (upside down) rides. So, when considering a rotisserie one needs to give full consideration to all aspects. In closing please remember if it wasn't for the 4th of July the Tiger might be a "Domestic" car. No offense implied to our fellow members across the pond. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 12:41:59 2010 From: berlin6703@mypacks.net To: "tigers@autox.team.net " Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 14:38:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Tigers] Hose Clamps Try the English "Jubilee" clamps for something that works right and still maintains the correct period appearance. Available at: https://www.xksunlimited.com/xks/merchant.ihtml?id=99&step=2 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 14:39:34 2010 From: "rande" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 16:35:36 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] hemmings 67 IA classified www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/sunbeam/tiger/1066421.html Description: 1967 Sunbeam Tiger, full restoration in 1999, very low hours since, email for full list of work done, very clean, fast car, VIN B382001746; Sunbeam Tiger Owners Association certification number 294, $33,000. 917-952-9267, CT; mark.sattler@ubs.com $33,000 mark.sattler@ubs.com I don't know the seller. This appeared as part of a Hemmings email I received today. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 15:09:39 2010 From: jliny5@cox.net To: rande@thecia.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 21:05:10 +0000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] hemmings 67 IA classified I am scheduled to take a look at this Tiger on Sunday, although the owner sent me an email a couple of days ago and said he had an offer on the table. I am waiting to hear from him on the current status. I ran the numbers past Norm Miller who confirmed the ID number. I also confirmed the TAC #. In my first email to the list last week, I ran this Tiger by the group and receved some positive comments on the individual who did the restoration. If any body has anymore info I surely would appeciate any comments. Thanks Jim lindner ------Original Message------ From: rande Sender: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net To: tigers@autox.team.net ReplyTo: rande@thecia.net Subject: [Tigers] hemmings 67 IA classified Sent: Jul 1, 2010 4:35 PM www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/sunbeam/tiger/1066421.html Description: 1967 Sunbeam Tiger, full restoration in 1999, very low hours since, email for full list of work done, very clean, fast car, VIN B382001746; Sunbeam Tiger Owners Association certification number 294, $33,000. 917-952-9267, CT; mark.sattler@ubs.com $33,000 mark.sattler@ubs.com I don't know the seller. This appeared as part of a Hemmings email I received today. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5@cox.net Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 15:32:25 2010 From: "Robin Young" To: "'Al Fudge'" , Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 17:11:30 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post Al, When the panels are replaced, you will find areas that are inaccessible when the car is fully assembled. These areas can be primed ahead of replacing the panels. The inner rockers can be fabricated easily from 12ga. Galvanized sheet and welded in place of the originals. The outer rockers are stamped and need to be purchased. It is true that some of the primer and some of the galvanized is burned off when the new panels/rockers are installed but for the most part, I thought it was worthwhile. The car on the rotisserie was transported on a car trailer about 35 miles but was strapped down pretty well. By the way, most of us have had quality problems with Victoria British but their Sunbeam body parts are top notch. Another source in the UK is Randy Willett. Willett581@msn.com . Some guys on the list recommended him recently and he is probably the source for the VB parts. Robin -----Original Message----- From: Al Fudge [mailto:AFudge@airtest.us] Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 11:52 AM To: Robin Young; Al Fudge; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post Robin, Great comments! I will be needing to locate someone who can professionally replace several panels, but I had been considering the blasting before the panel replacement. I may have to reconsider that. You moved it to the blaster on the rotisserie? On a car trailer? I was going to build a body cart out of unistrut for transportation purposes. The paint info is great. Al -----Original Message----- From: Robin Young [mailto:Robin02@mindspring.com] Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:35 AM To: Al Fudge; 'Al Fudge'; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post -----Original Message----- From: Al Fudge [mailto:AFudge@airtest.us] Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 2:56 AM To: Robin Young; Al Fudge; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post Al, A really good body guy installed eight body panels on my car while it was on the rotisserie. Afterwards, we hauled it to the bead blaster on the rotisserie and used the ceramic beads to remove paint and rust to bare metal. The beads just moved the undercoat around. It took chemicals and rubbing to remove it. Tim Ronack coached me through the paint process and pointed out steel from this era was very prone to rust. New bonding primers, (he called them wash primers) chemically bond to well prepared steel and protect the steel better than the building primer that goes on next and makes the building primer adhere better so moisture cannot cause rust under paint as was the case originally. The undercoat you asked about is actually only stuck to a one step factory paint. RObin Robin, Two engine stands is an idea I hadn't thought of. Makes sense. The undercoat has been bothering me; would the blasting remove it (apparently not) and what is it hiding? I was advised by Larry Atkisson, after he looked at the car, to sell the it and buy another one to avoid the repairs (he was very diplomatic about it). I was unable to sell it, and decided instead, against his better judgement to attempt to have it repaired. After all it is a Tiger and I have always wanted one. We'll see how it turns out. Al _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 19:32:59 2010 From: Tony McNulty To: rande@thecia.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 21:30:37 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] hemmings 67 IA classified Rowayton's right next door to where we are in Weston, CT. Anything you want looking at? Mine's into resto by a 2X Tiger owner, Julio Grosso. Tony McNulty B382001321 -- Original Owner 1966 Mk1a ----- Original Message ----- From: "rande" To: Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 4:35 PM Subject: [Tigers] hemmings 67 IA classified > www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/sunbeam/tiger/1066421.html > > Description: > 1967 Sunbeam Tiger, full restoration in 1999, very low hours since, email > for > full list of work done, very clean, fast car, VIN B382001746; Sunbeam > Tiger > Owners Association certification number 294, $33,000. 917-952-9267, CT; > mark.sattler@ubs.com > $33,000 mark.sattler@ubs.com > > I don't know the seller. This appeared as part of a Hemmings email I > received > today. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bamcnulty@optonline.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 19:56:32 2010 From: Al Fudge To: Thomas Witt Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 18:56:52 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post Tom, How late do you stay up thinking up stuff like this! Great response and I can only ask you how would one complete the orbit around the car? I can easily handle the ground portion of this orbit, presumably on a NASA rated creeper, but the levitation over the car has me stumped. How do I do that? Al On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 9:30 AM, Thomas Witt wrote: > The rotisserie I wound up using was simple and very low cost. It is known > as the "Satellite" rotisserie. The mounting points are not questionable. One > simple puts the car on jackstands (located on sturdy frame rails). Then you > (the satellite) rotate around the car to perform the needed tasks. This > offers a number of advantages beyond the low cost. With the typical > rotisserie one needs to stand/stoop over it all day. With the satellite > rotisserie half the tasks can be preformed comfortably lying on your back. > When working outdoors this also provides a secondary benefit - shade! > > While the drawback to the satellite rotisserie is falling debris, one > should be wearing a full face mask anyway. A shower at the end of the day > should also be required regardless of the rotisserie type. > > There are psychological perception disadvantages to the typical rotisserie > as well. The wife may be incline to see your "skewered" car and be thinking > you should be BBQ-ing rather than working on your car. The kids may be > inclined to see a rotating axis and pester you to go to the local carnival > and get on the twisting (upside down) rides. So, when considering a > rotisserie one needs to give full consideration to all aspects. > > In closing please remember if it wasn't for the 4th of July the Tiger might > be a "Domestic" car. No offense implied to our fellow members across the > pond. > Tom _______________________________________________ > > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allfudge1635@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 19:59:11 2010 From: Al Fudge To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 19:00:03 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Rotisserie I want to thank everyone who responded! I learned a lot and have made some great connections as I progress down the road on my first total restoration. Maybe that's a little strong as the car will not be concours quality, but a good solid driver that I'll be happy to enter in the local shows. There will be more questions as I proceed. Thanks, Al _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 21:27:55 2010 From: Mark J Bradakis To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 21:35:25 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] List membership notes For some reason it seems I've gotten more than the usual number of admin messages regarding posts by a non-member to a list. It has been happening on a number of the many lists I manage, not just this one. Basically what happens is this: People subscribe AddressA to the list. They get the messages at that address. They send messages to the list from AddressB. AddressA is a member, AddressB is not. The post from AddressB is rejected as non-member spam. Send messages from the address that is subscribed and they won't get rejected as non-member spam. If you aren't set up for digest mode, the address where you get the mail is listed in the trailer of each and every posting, right there below the donate link. Donate early, donate often! If you normally send messages from AddressB, then subscribe AddressB to the list. If you want messages to go to AddressA and not AddressB, then subscribe AddressB and set your mailman options to not deliver to AddressB. Hopefully this will assist some folks with managing Team.Net email. mjb. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 1 22:58:38 2010 From: To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 21:47:40 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers the shop that is repainting my Tiger is nearly ready for the color coat. Does anyone have a mix number for code 39 Carnival red? ppg products would be great. Erich _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 2 07:17:08 2010 From: AC SunbeamTiger To: , "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 05:56:12 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers I have an email from Ron Fraser, who cites another email from James Miller, posted to the group in 2008 with codes for several brands, including one for PPG: Steve I'm not familiar enough with what codes a paint shop can cross reference. Here are some additional numbers that may help you. Code 39 Carnival Red Ditzler # 71144, Lucite Lacquer # 8415LH, Dulux Enamel # 84016, Chrysler part# 1 liter 75242822, Berger code 404.0949, ICI 8385 Here is an email from James Miller: Here is the code for PPG DBU paint for Carnival Red. The code is 71243. (DBU = Deltron Base Urethane ) James Miller Elk Grove. Ca _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 2 08:48:06 2010 From: Tom Parker To: e.coiner@cox.net Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 10:28:58 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers My guru in New Hampshire slaved over the formula, sent more than a few samples to look at. We (He - I agreed) settled on a custom mix from Nason (I can send you the formula; it's a bit long...). The interesting part came when I was painting small attached parts. Norm had suggested "Guards Red" a Porsche / VW color. The local hobby shop carries it for models. The color is so close as to be almost indistinguishable from #39. The problem is - as always - how much orange (actually yellow...) makes a knockout red. See attached. So if I was going to start somewhere I might try Hobbytown and shoot up a sample over your choice of primer. See if that's close. Your local PPG guy will carry their version of the real thing. Tom On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 12:47 AM, wrote: > the shop that is repainting my Tiger is nearly ready for the color coat. > > Does anyone have a mix number for code 39 Carnival red? ppg products would > be great. > > > Erich > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 9151.jpg] _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 2 10:49:14 2010 From: Peter L To: e.coiner@cox.net, "tigers@autox.team.net" , Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 09:27:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers i might be wrong, but back when i did carnival red paint research, i kept hearing that they cant get it right anymore simply by code, too much time, too much chemicals changing, or whatever the reason. if you want it perfect, someone has to use a spectophotmeter or something on a peice of original paint under the dash or somewhere that hasnt faded and mix and mix and test and test and eyeball to try to match it. doug convinced me to go with guards red as close enough and anyway can repair if needed. i think at one point dale in CA got one "right", he should sell the mix or the secret ingredients list... --- On Fri, 7/2/10, AC SunbeamTiger wrote: From: AC SunbeamTiger Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers To: e.coiner@cox.net, "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Friday, July 2, 2010, 8:56 AM I have an email from Ron Fraser, who cites another email from James Miller, posted to the group in 2008 with codes for several brands, including one for PPG: Steve I'm not familiar enough with what codes a paint shop can cross reference. Here are some additional numbers that may help you. Code 39 Carnival Red Ditzler # 71144, Lucite Lacquer # 8415LH, Dulux Enamel # 84016, Chrysler part# 1 liter 75242822, Berger code 404.0949, ICI 8385 Here is an email from James Miller: Here is the code for PPG DBU paint for Carnival Red. The code is 71243. (DBU = Deltron Base Urethane ) James Miller Elk Grove. Ca _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/laurin212@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 2 11:08:48 2010 From: Peter L To: tigers@autox.team.net, wsamouce Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 09:47:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] 1965 Sunbeam Tiger for Sale - $23,500 i only have room for one now technically also since i got the wifey and baby en route. secret was, i bought the 3 several months before getting engaged. planning is everything in life. or alternatively, buy first and ask for forgiveness later! --- On Fri, 7/2/10, wsamouce wrote: From: wsamouce wsamouce@kc.rr.com If I were looking for a car, I would be all over this. Great price. I only have room for one Tiger :^( Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 2 12:07:40 2010 From: Peter L To: tigers@autox.team.net, e.coiner@cox.net Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 10:46:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers i might be wrong, but back when i did carnival red paint research, i kept hearing that they cant get it right anymore simply by code, too much time, too much chemicals changing, or whatever the reason. if you want it perfect, someone has to use a spectophotmeter or something on a peice of original paint under the dash or somewhere that hasnt faded and mix and mix and test and test and eyeball to try to match it. doug convinced me to go with guards red as close enough and anyway can repair if needed. i think at one point dale in CA got one "right", he should sell the mix or the secret ingredients list... --- On Fri, 7/2/10, e.coiner@cox.net wrote: From: e.coiner@cox.net Subject: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Friday, July 2, 2010, 12:47 AM the shop that is repainting my Tiger is nearly ready for the color coat. Does anyone have a mix number for code 39 Carnival red? ppg products would be great. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 2 13:09:51 2010 From: "rande" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 14:51:32 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] #39 and Guards Red Hi, It's funny that I know several owners who painted their cars Guards Red. At the time, I thought they figured 'what's good for my 944 is good for the catcar'but maybe they were just tipped off by Doug or other restorer. The tip to bring a unfaded piece of the Tiger in to the paint mixer is a good one. I don't have a Carnival Red car (it's actually Deep Canyon Red / Maroon) but the two fuel tank retaining brackets in the trunk are #39 C.Red, and maybe someone trying to match the color can bring one of theirs to the mixer. It comes off with just three bolts. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 2 13:39:53 2010 From: Tom Parker To: rande@thecia.net Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 15:18:39 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] #39 and Guards Red The problem is... regardless of where you get it, there's no such thing as "unfaded" 40 year old paint. My dash was somewhat lighter than the color we ended up with - and much less "intense" although it was a bit "brighter" than the original body paint. The windshield frame is discolored, probably because of the rubber seal. The inside of the boot was badly faded. So... basically, #39 is "Red, with a tough of Orange" (I think that's how Rootes described it). Looking a On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 2:51 PM, rande wrote: > Hi, > > It's funny that I know several owners who painted their cars Guards Red. At > the time, I thought they figured 'what's good for my 944 is good for the > catcar'but > maybe they were just tipped off by Doug or other restorer. > > The tip to bring a unfaded piece of the Tiger in to the paint mixer is a > good > one. I don't have a Carnival Red car (it's actually Deep Canyon Red / > Maroon) > but the two fuel tank retaining brackets in the trunk are #39 C.Red, and > maybe > someone trying to match the color can bring one of theirs to the mixer. It > comes > off with just three bolts. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 2 14:47:43 2010 From: "rande" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 16:33:19 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] red and orange Hi, Speaking of red with a little orange (would that be a tequila sunrise? OK, it Friday night here - almost - just guess what's on my mind) Does anyone who was at the Santa Rosa United remember the first Tiger in the line of personalized class in the park? It looked Orange with a touch of red. Just a stunning ride, and this being a United, stunning was a recurring theme. And, speaking of orange, remember the 2005 TEAE United in Alexandria Bay, NY, and the Tiger painted the Corvette C6 metallic orange. Awesome. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 2 17:00:17 2010 From: "Armacost, Don Jr." To: "Tom Parker" Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 17:52:23 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] #39 and Guards Red We recently finished repainting a 27k all original Carnival Red '65. While it had been repainted twice, the jams, boot and under the bonnet were original. The interior is original and after extensive cleaning and conditioning appears as new. Same for the original top. The car was from Georgetown, Canada and had been garaged and stored in a climate controlled garage. We were successful in computer matching the color from several areas and were able to touch up areas missing in the aforementioned areas perfectly as well as do a superior exterior. Just remember there are many areas, such as the ones mentioned that were not buffed out like the exterior and should appear as mildly flat and not high gloss as do all the exterior bits that should be high gloss. We used a single stage paint and experimented with varying degrees of flattener to match the nonbuffed areas. It can be done! Don Armacost Jr. President CEO Peterson Mfg. Co. On Jul 2, 2010, at 2:36 PM, "Tom Parker" wrote: > The problem is... regardless of where you get it, there's no such thing as > "unfaded" 40 year old paint. My dash was somewhat lighter than the color we > ended up with - and much less "intense" although it was a bit "brighter" > than the original body paint. The windshield frame is discolored, probably > because of the rubber seal. The inside of the boot was badly faded. > > So... basically, #39 is "Red, with a tough of Orange" (I think that's how > Rootes described it). Looking a > > > > On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 2:51 PM, rande wrote:77 > >> Hi, >> >> It's funny that I know several owners who painted their cars Guards Red. At >> the time, I thought they figured 'what's good for my 944 is good for the >> catcar'but >> maybe they were just tipped off by Doug or other restorer. >> >> The tip to bring a unfaded piece of the Tiger in to the paint mixer is a >> good >> one. I don't have a Carnival Red car (it's actually Deep Canyon Red / >> Maroon) >> but the two fuel tank retaining brackets in the trunk are #39 C.Red, and >> maybe >> someone trying to match the color can bring one of theirs to the mixer. It >> comes >> off with just three bolts. >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drarmacost@pmlights.com > This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the Recipient. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute, copy or alter this email. Any views or opinions presented in this email are solely those of the author and might not represent those of Peterson Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, Mission Plastics North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) . Warning: Although Peterson Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, Mission Plastics North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) has taken reasonable precautions to ensure no viruses are present in this email, the company cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage arising from the use of this email or attachments. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 3 13:14:29 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: e.coiner@cox.net, Tom Parker Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 11:55:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers I need it in the future OR Im going to use a red I just plain old like and not worryy about that part of original. It would be nice tho to have easy control of obtaining the original #39. TtT --- On Fri, 7/2/10, Tom Parker wrote: From: Tom Parker Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers To: e.coiner@cox.net Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Friday, July 2, 2010, 9:28 AM My guru in New Hampshire slaved over the formula, sent more than a few samples to look at. We (He - I agreed) settled on a custom mix from Nason (I can send you the formula; it's a bit long...). The interesting part came when I was painting small attached parts. Norm had suggested "Guards Red" a Porsche / VW color. The local hobby shop carries it for models. The color is so close as to be almost indistinguishable from #39. The problem is - as always - how much orange (actually yellow...) makes a knockout red. See attached. So if I was going to start somewhere I might try Hobbytown and shoot up a sample over your choice of primer. See if that's close. Your local PPG guy will carry their version of the real thing. Tom On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 12:47 AM, wrote: > the shop that is repainting my Tiger is nearly ready for the color coat. > > Does anyone have a mix number for code 39 Carnival red? ppg products would > be great. > > > Erich > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 9151.jpg] _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 3 16:14:03 2010 From: "Bill Waite" To: Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 17:52:21 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Bounced of List... Tiger listers... Somehow (have no clue) I no longer am receiving e-mails from the list. I went through the suggested "subscribe" process... but no emails for about three or four days. Can someone point me to the proper place (and or method) to get me back on the list? Thanks! Bill Waite _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 3 16:59:14 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: "Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)" Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 15:35:05 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Cooling Hoses - The Real Story! Mark, and John, Totally agree about the internal water hoses should have. Especially important on the inlet hose, due to pump suction collapsing the hose. The you are "really hosed". On the original request for the correct hoses means, I believe, for the Original Hose Clamps that were on teh car when it left the factory. I believe they were "double-wire" type, not worm drive, and CAD plated, not stainless. Here are a few references: Heater hoses, and such: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Two_spring_Hose_Clamps_-_small.jpg The original radiator hose clamps (I Think) ($ 2.05) can be seen on: http://www.englishparts.com/products/CLAMP--RADIATOR-HOSE-WIRE-TYPE--1-38-TO-1-916-IN-HOSE/7275/326-430.html TBON (The Book of Norman) shows the water and oil cap vent hoses with the "wire-type", and heater as the simple plain clamp band. He says (pp153): "All 1/2" hoses were CAD plated English "band clamps.". "All 5/8" hose clamps used CAD plated English "double wire clamps" at all but three locations." "The water pump by-pass hose was clamped with CAD plated Ford screw clamps at both ends" "The heater core return hose was clamped with a CAD plated Ford screw clamped with clamp at the elbow manifold fitting. "Upper and lower radiator hoses were clamped with CAD plated English double wire clamps" Now. are you SURE you want that 100 point concourse medal? Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd) wrote: > Just make sure that the bottom hose you buy has the internal spring > support included. Otherwise it will collapse due to the heat and suction > and can starve your engine of vital coolant. Save your old hoses if just > for the internal spring support. > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 3 17:58:27 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Bill Waite Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 16:34:51 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] List membership notes Bill, Here is the guy you should talk to about "list bounced" or your subscription/address/list issues: fordlandia@sbcglobal.net Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Mark J Bradan's wrote: > For some reason it seems I've gotten more than the usual > number of admin messages regarding posts by a non-member > to a list. It has been happening on a number of the many > lists I manage, not just this one. > > Basically what happens is this: > > People subscribe AddressA to the list. They get the > messages at that address. > > They send messages to the list from AddressB. AddressA > is a member, AddressB is not. The post from AddressB > is rejected as non-member spam. > > Send messages from the address that is subscribed and they > won't get rejected as non-member spam. If you aren't set > up for digest mode, the address where you get the mail is > listed in the trailer of each and every posting, right there > below the donate link. Donate early, donate often! > > If you normally send messages from AddressB, then subscribe > AddressB to the list. If you want messages to go to AddressA > and not AddressB, then subscribe AddressB and set your mailman > options to not deliver to AddressB. > > Hopefully this will assist some folks with managing Team.Net > email. > > mjb. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 3 18:59:53 2010 From: Terry Packer To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 17:23:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Mirror Re-Silvering Service My apology if this information has been posted in the recent past. But for those interested in having a mirror re-silvered, one source is Robert Easthope of "Reflections Again" in San Jose, CA. His primary business is furniture re-finishing. However, he has been re-silvering mirrors regularly for a long time. Bob did my Tiger's inside mirror many years ago and I just had it done again. (BTW, the reason I had the mirror re-done is because the small amount of mirror mastic I installed it with, apparently attacked the silver despite the sealing paint applied to the mirror and the fact that a mirror specific product should have been safe. Live and learn!) You should be aware that if the backside of your mirror has deteriorated badly, the glass itself can become etched or scratched, which may only become apparent after the mirror has been re-silvered. Bob can usually correct these issues but at additional cost for reworking the mirror one or more times. One alternative is to accept imperfections which may exist in the glass itself and consider it part of your car's overall patina. Another alternative is just to source a modern replacement glass which will almost certainly appear more perfect than your re-worked original. Feel free to write off-line if there are any questions I can answer regarding my experiences with Reflections Again. The usual disclaimer applies - I have no relationship with or interest in Reflections Again. Except that I did specifically ask Bob if he wanted to invite automotive type jobs, as they tend to be small and involve shipping. He said yes, so I offered to post this reference to his business. However, I received no discount or other consideration for doing so. (Maybe I should have negotiated harder!) Reflections Again Robert Easthope 1260 Yard Court, Suite H San Jose, CA 95133 408-971-8389 www.MirrorResilvering.com Terry Packer 9470018 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 3 22:15:49 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 22:49:16 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Hey guys, I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600 miles to TE/AE United 2010. The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in diameter and 935 revs per mile. If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 in diameter and 914 revs per mile. I am trying to figure out if the gas savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting. I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out. I am currently running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear). I plan on running the same speed, with cruise control, all the way to Maine. The larger tire would allow me to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed. TIA! Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 3 23:46:30 2010 From: Steve Ralsten To: tigers@autox.team.net, wsamouce Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 22:26:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Well I think you would come up a bit short. No math wiz here but I'll try based on your claimed rev numbers your effficency would improve by .9775 %. You dont include your current MPG at 78Mph but assuming you now get 20MPG you would improve to about 20.2MPG. in a 1600 mile trip you would use 80 gallons. With the $170 tire purchase you'd cut that to 79.2 Gallons. At $3 gallon you'd save less than $3. If your current MPG is better than 20 your savings would be even less. Maybe someone will show I made a mistake --- On Sat, 7/3/10, wsamouce wrote: From: wsamouce Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Saturday, July 3, 2010, 8:49 PM Hey guys, I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600 miles to TE/AE United 2010. The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in diameter and 935 revs per mile. If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 in diameter and 914 revs per mile. I am trying to figure out if the gas savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting. I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out. I am currently running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear). I plan on running the same speed, with cruise control, all the way to Maine. The larger tire would allow me to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed. TIA! Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/s_ralsten@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 04:46:34 2010 From: "Dave Munroe" To: "wsamouce" , Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 07:30:23 -0300 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Hi Duke: I have been doing the same calculation but for a different reason: I want less sturm & drang from the engine room, not just better fuel economy. Spending 17 hours at highway speeds with the"racket" reduced is a big incentive for me. I have driven to Midcoast, Maine the last two years to the annual "Tiger" gathering at the Owl's Head Museum and both times got approx 25 miles to the Canadian gal. (~21 miles/U.S. gal.) for the 1500 mile return trip. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/fuel-consumption-converter-d_850.html My car also has a 3:09 rear end, but I am running 205x50Rx15 rear tires (23.07" dia) 901.6 revs/mile. Absolutely no clearance problems on stock, unmodified rear wheel arches. But I think you should consider a different size - try 195x70x13. Should fit no problem, and you get 876 revs/mile, a significant difference: 6.45%. Here's a great calculator to make this comparison easy: http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp?action=submit&reset=yes Only problem is, tire manufacturers recommend you don't change tire size more than 3% for fear of the risk of brake failure. I have no idea how great this danger might be, but I am running Wilwoods and vented discs up front, with stock brakes in the rear, so I'm not too concerned. Do you have upgraded brakes? Dave One way or another - see you there.... Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? > Hey guys, > > I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving > 1600 > miles to TE/AE United 2010. The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in > diameter and 935 revs per mile. If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 > in > diameter and 914 revs per mile. I am trying to figure out if the gas > savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting. > > I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out. I am currently > running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear). I plan on running the same speed, > with cruise control, all the way to Maine. The larger tire would allow me > to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed. > > TIA! > > Duke > B382002037 > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 06:39:38 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'wsamouce'" , Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 07:28:01 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Duke I'm not sure your numbers are that accurate. I prefer to run the numbers using the measured circumference of the tire. There is also the question of how accurate is your speedometer and tachometer. Measure your tire circumference and re-calculate. The stock Tiger tire I believe had a diameter around 23.7" so unless your buying a tire close to that size I don't think you will see much MPG improvement from just the tires. I'm not sure where you can drive 78 mph all the time but here in NY State you would be getting tickets all day long. This state is short on money, just like many others, and one way to generate more cash is to catch more speeders. The Police have reduced their max speed tolerance to match the State's need for income. One speeding ticket would overshadow any MPG savings not to mention putting a damper on the trip. Slowing down a bit should increase your MPG. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 11:49 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Hey guys, I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600 miles to TE/AE United 2010. The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in diameter and 935 revs per mile. If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 in diameter and 914 revs per mile. I am trying to figure out if the gas savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting. I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out. I am currently running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear). I plan on running the same speed, with cruise control, all the way to Maine. The larger tire would allow me to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed. TIA! Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2977 - Release Date: 07/02/10 06:35:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 07:45:05 2010 From: michael king To: wsamouce , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 22:47:22 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Duke, I have to agree, unless you are nocking off a significant number of RPM, minimum 500.. and more likely 1000 you are not going to see much gain in terms of savings, especially if you are offsetting it against cost for tyres for a particular trip. -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 07:45:33 2010 From: "Dave Munroe" To: "Dave Munroe" , Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 09:48:28 -0300 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Hi Duke: I have been doing the same calculation but for a different reason: I want less sturm & drang from the engine room, not just better fuel economy. Spending 17 hours at highway speeds with the"racket" reduced is a big incentive for me. I have driven to Midcoast, Maine the last two years to the annual "Tiger" gathering at the Owl's Head Museum and both times got approx 25 miles to the Canadian gal. (~21 miles/U.S. gal.) for the 1500 mile return trip. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/fuel-consumption-converter-d_850.html My car also has a 3:09 rear end, but I am running 205x50Rx15 rear tires (23.07" dia) 901.6 revs/mile. Absolutely no clearance problems on stock, unmodified rear wheel arches. But I think you should consider a different size - try 195x70x13. Should fit no problem, and you get 876 revs/mile, a significant difference: 6.45%. Here's a great calculator to make this comparison easy: http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp?action=submit&reset=yes Only problem is, tire manufacturers recommend you don't change tire size more than 3% for fear of the risk of brake failure. I have no idea how great this danger might be, but I am running Wilwoods and vented discs up front, with stock brakes in the rear, so I'm not too concerned. Do you have upgraded brakes? Dave One way or another - see you there.... _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 09:14:03 2010 From: mike schreiner To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 07:18:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage I have a 2:88 with a 5 speed....PROBLEM SOLVED! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 09:48:59 2010 From: To: wsamouce , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 8:10:45 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Short answer to your question. No. Long answer below You are overthinking this whole thing. For round numbers. Assume your tiger gets 16 mpg. (mine gets 13 city 17 hwy) You will burn 1600/16 = 100 gallons of gas. At 3.00 per gallon you will use spend $300 on gas. To save $170 you spend on tires, you would have to increase your gas mileage to spend only $130 on gas. At $3/gal you could burn 130/3=43 gallons. 1600/43=37 mpg. Do you think a 22.8/22.4= 2% increase in tire diameter is going to more than double your mpg? not to mention the diameter change will make your speedo inaccurate and your gas mileage calc will be in error anyway. Summary to long answer: No. If you were really interested in saving gas you would set the cruise at 60mpg and you would save 10% or more. If you need tires buy them, otherwise put the top down and enjoy the drive. If you are worried about expenses rent a Kia and get 35 mpg ---- wsamouce wrote: > Hey guys, > > I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600 > miles to TE/AE United 2010. The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in > diameter and 935 revs per mile. If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 in > diameter and 914 revs per mile. I am trying to figure out if the gas > savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting. > > I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out. I am currently > running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear). I plan on running the same speed, > with cruise control, all the way to Maine. The larger tire would allow me > to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed. > > TIA! > > Duke > B382002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner@cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 10:12:54 2010 From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 11:28:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas Milage _http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html_ (http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html) In a message dated 7/4/2010 8:14:22 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mikeflbmer@yahoo.com writes: I have a 2:88 with a 5 speed....PROBLEM SOLVED! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aaaglasss@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 10:13:05 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: "'mike schreiner'" , Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 10:28:44 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas Milage $4000 to install a 5 speed ='s 1538 gallons of fuel (@$2.60 a gal). @16 mpg (current mileage) ='s 24,608 miles. @26 mpg (possible with overdrive 5 speed) ='s 39,998 miles 15,380 miles more with same amount of fuel. I would have to make the 3200 mile round trip 4.8 times to pay for the 5 speed. I have done some work on my distributer with Ron Fraser's help. I also plan on installing smaller primary jets for the trip. Need to do another mileage check. Duke B382002037 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mike schreiner Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 9:19 AM To: Tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage I have a 2:88 with a 5 speed....PROBLEM SOLVED! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 10:13:12 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'mike schreiner'" , Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 11:28:56 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas Milage Mike Excellent, what do you get for gas mileage? Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mike schreiner Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 10:19 AM To: Tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage I have a 2:88 with a 5 speed....PROBLEM SOLVED! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2977 - Release Date: 07/02/10 06:35:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 10:13:26 2010 From: mike schreiner To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 08:37:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] 5 Speed I built the 5 speed myself for $500. Mustang v8 T5 from u-pull it for $300. and a Chevy S10 T5 from a U pull it for $75.00 ....switched top plate and shifter housing to make it fit in x frame....had to replace front input shaft and bearing $125.00 the rest appears to be fine....car is not done yet so no road test or gas milage test yet (working on my Alpine instead) mike _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 11:15:39 2010 From: "Peter Laurinaitis" To: Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 12:37:32 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] flyingtigerbear can "flyingtigerbear" from the CAT forum send me an email thks peter _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 12:40:57 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: , wsamouce , Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 13:50:39 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas mileage with different tires? Agreed. All true, but we also have to consider that the improved mileage, albeit negligible, would continue to remain for the life of the car, not just for this single trip. Right? On 7/4/10 11:10 AM, "e.coiner@cox.net" wrote: > Short answer to your question. No. > > Long answer below > You are overthinking this whole thing. > For round numbers. Assume your tiger gets 16 mpg. (mine gets 13 city 17 hwy) > You will burn 1600/16 = 100 gallons of gas. At 3.00 per gallon you will use > spend $300 on gas. To save $170 you spend on tires, you would have to increase > your gas mileage to spend only $130 on gas. At $3/gal you could burn > 130/3=43 gallons. > 1600/43=37 mpg. Do you think a 22.8/22.4= 2% increase in tire diameter is > going to more than double your mpg? > not to mention the diameter change will make your speedo inaccurate and your > gas mileage calc will be in error anyway. > Summary to long answer: No. > > If you were really interested in saving gas you would set the cruise at 60mpg > and you would save 10% or more. > > If you need tires buy them, otherwise put the top down and enjoy the drive. > If you are worried about expenses rent a Kia and get 35 mpg > > ---- wsamouce wrote: >> Hey guys, >> >> I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600 >> miles to TE/AE United 2010. The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in >> diameter and 935 revs per mile. If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 in >> diameter and 914 revs per mile. I am trying to figure out if the gas >> savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting. >> >> I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out. I am currently >> running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear). I plan on running the same speed, >> with cruise control, all the way to Maine. The larger tire would allow me >> to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed. >> >> TIA! >> >> Duke >> B382002037 >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner@cox.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 13:59:31 2010 From: mike schreiner To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 12:05:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] 5 speed I only had to trim an inch or two on side lip (in front of the X Frame)...No cut out of X frame needed.....I used the T5 302 bell housing....choose not to buy adapter to tilt tranny (so it would come out orig shifter hole)....but could have gone that way....stock bell housing with mustang T5 adapter......so my shifter comes out on top center, slightly in front of orig shifter hole...put on fake T handle short shifter.....That is one of the plus's of having an Alger....improvements made are not so critical to originality...it is all installed but not running yet ...and clutch slave not worked out yet or rear tranny mount...mike _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 16:30:33 2010 From: Tom Parker To: rfraser@bluefrog.com Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 17:59:35 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? I went scurrying to the workshop manual. The original Tiger tires were listed as 5-90x 13 with a rolling radius of 11.5 inches (Diameter 23 inches). I'm not interested in mileage necessarily, more interested in a bit more ground clearance, so I was shooting for a diameter @ 24". I could probably get some of that with new springs, but I need the tires anyway; mine are thirty years old. Either way if you go to a larger tire the speedometer will be off by a bit , but I'm sure there are shops that can calibrate it for me (Nisonger does it). Anyhow, a 22 or so inch diameter tire will run at a somewhat higher engine speed than a 24" tire. Wiki tells me C = Pi x D, so a tire with a 22 inch diameter rolls a bit more than 69 inches per revolution, a 23 inch diameter tire rolls @ 72 1/4 inches per revolution,a 24 inch diameter tire rolls a bit less than 75 1/2 inches per revolution. I'll leave it to the engineers to complete the calculations, but it would appear at first glance that going from a 23 inch diameter tire to a 24 inch diameter tire isn't going to save you a lot of gas. Tom ' 67 Mark 2 On Sun, Jul 4, 2010 at 7:28 AM, Ron Fraser wrote: > Duke > I'm not sure your numbers are that accurate. I prefer to run the > numbers using the measured circumference of the tire. There is also the > question of how accurate is your speedometer and tachometer. Measure your > tire circumference and re-calculate. The stock Tiger tire I believe had a > diameter around 23.7" so unless your buying a tire close to that size I > don't think you will see much MPG improvement from just the tires. > > I'm not sure where you can drive 78 mph all the time but here in NY > State you would be getting tickets all day long. This state is short on > money, just like many others, and one way to generate more cash is to catch > more speeders. The Police have reduced their max speed tolerance to match > the State's need for income. One speeding ticket would overshadow any MPG > savings not to mention putting a damper on the trip. Slowing down a bit > should increase your MPG. > > Ron Fraser > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of wsamouce > Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 11:49 PM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? > > > Hey guys, > > I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600 > miles to TE/AE United 2010. The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in > diameter and 935 revs per mile. If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 > in > diameter and 914 revs per mile. I am trying to figure out if the gas > savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting. > > I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out. I am currently > running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear). I plan on running the same speed, > with cruise control, all the way to Maine. The larger tire would allow me > to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed. > > TIA! > > Duke > B382002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2977 - Release Date: 07/02/10 > 06:35:00 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 18:00:44 2010 From: michael king To: wsamouce Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 09:24:04 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas Milage Duke, The other advantage of the 5 speed is not just saving in MPG.. but also engine life.. and when you go to that stroker eventually.. it might well all shake out for you... but in real terms.. we dont buy these cars to save on gas :-) .. or perhaps convert it to a Series V 1725... you can probably get 32mpg and should fit in a tiger engine bay without to many mods!! On 5 July 2010 01:28, wsamouce wrote: > $4000 to install a 5 speed ='s 1538 gallons of fuel (@$2.60 a gal). > > @16 mpg (current mileage) ='s 24,608 miles. > @26 mpg (possible with overdrive 5 speed) ='s 39,998 miles > > 15,380 miles more with same amount of fuel. > > I would have to make the 3200 mile round trip 4.8 times to pay for the 5 > speed. > > I have done some work on my distributer with Ron Fraser's help. I also > plan > on installing smaller primary jets for the trip. Need to do another > mileage > check. > > Duke > B382002037 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of mike schreiner > Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 9:19 AM > To: Tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage > > I have a 2:88 with a 5 speed....PROBLEM SOLVED! > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 18:02:04 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 16:31:45 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Back in 2003 Ron Fraiser sent this to the list: >>>Good Question about the original tires. I don't know the real answer; I >>>can only reverse engineer the size of the tire from the printed facts in >>>the manual and on hand. Original Tire = 5.90 x 13 - not much help here. 1-From the Tiger Manual - 23.92mph @ 1000 rpm Calculate tire size using 2.88 gears Tire circumference = 72.75" - Diam. = 23.15" 2-Let's calculate again using the speedometer gear ratios. Speedo cal# = 980 rev/mi, speedo cable gear = 15 teeth, trans drive gear # B7C-17285-A = 6 teeth, 2.88 gears This gives you 24.49mph @ 1000rpm Tire circumference = 74.48" - Diam = 23.71"<<< A number of years ago (6 years to be more accurate) Jim Boynton sent me the circumference of his original, barely used spare tire. It was 74.875". So, for those that want to be "factory accurate" take your pick. 72.25", 74.48", or 74.875 as each has its merits. In closing his post Ron wrote, "I hope this helps and doesn't confuse people too much." I would agree. Tom (Witt) _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 18:31:15 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Tom Parker'" Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 19:52:33 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Tom I never liked working with rolling radius or tire diameter. They are vague terms, IMO, due to tire wear, the tire manufacturer and other factors. I prefer to measure the circumference and work from that number. The radius or diameter of a tire can be difficult to measure but the circumference is not. Getting an accurate speedometer reading depends on the tire size, the gearing, the speedometer you have and the gear ratio on the speedometer cable. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: Tom Parker [mailto:tkparker1941@gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 6:00 PM To: rfraser@bluefrog.com Cc: wsamouce; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? I went scurrying to the workshop manual. The original Tiger tires were listed as 5-90x 13 with a rolling radius of 11.5 inches (Diameter 23 inches). I'm not interested in mileage necessarily, more interested in a bit more ground clearance, so I was shooting for a diameter @ 24". I could probably get some of that with new springs, but I need the tires anyway; mine are thirty years old. Either way if you go to a larger tire the speedometer will be off by a bit , but I'm sure there are shops that can calibrate it for me (Nisonger does it). Anyhow, a 22 or so inch diameter tire will run at a somewhat higher engine speed than a 24" tire. Wiki tells me C = Pi x D, so a tire with a 22 inch diameter rolls a bit more than 69 inches per revolution, a 23 inch diameter tire rolls @ 72 1/4 inches per revolution,a 24 inch diameter tire rolls a bit less than 75 1/2 inches per revolution. I'll leave it to the engineers to complete the calculations, but it would appear at first glance that going from a 23 inch diameter tire to a 24 inch diameter tire isn't going to save you a lot of gas. Tom ' 67 Mark 2 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 4 20:32:34 2010 From: Jim To: Thomas Witt Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 18:41:17 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Measuring the 'off car' circumferance doesn't give you a very accurate 'tire revs. Per mile' as it's compressed on the bottom making the rolling diameter slightly smaller. When I sent the numbers to get a custom speedo gear for my Sprite/B210 5 sp. Conversion they asked that I mark the tire and ground with a chalk mark and then roll the car one tire revolution and make another mark on the ground and take a measurement between them to show 'rolling' circumferance... Jim B382000446 Sent from my iPhone On 2010-07-04, at 4:31 PM, "Thomas Witt" wrote: > Back in 2003 Ron Fraiser sent this to the list: > >>>> Good Question about the original tires. I don't know the real >>>> answer; I can only reverse engineer the size of the tire from the >>>> printed facts in the > manual and on hand. > > Original Tire = 5.90 x 13 - not much help here. > > 1-From the Tiger Manual - 23.92mph @ 1000 rpm Calculate tire size > using 2.88 gears Tire circumference = 72.75" - Diam. = 23.15" > > 2-Let's calculate again using the speedometer gear ratios. Speedo > cal# = 980 rev/mi, speedo cable gear = 15 teeth, > trans drive gear # B7C-17285-A = 6 teeth, 2.88 gears > This gives you 24.49mph @ 1000rpm > > Tire circumference = 74.48" - Diam = 23.71"<<< > > > A number of years ago (6 years to be more accurate) Jim Boynton sent > me the circumference of his original, barely used spare tire. It was > 74.875". > > So, for those that want to be "factory accurate" take your pick. > 72.25", 74.48", or 74.875 as each has its merits. In closing his > post Ron wrote, "I hope this helps and doesn't confuse people too > much." I would agree. > > Tom (Witt) > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim@island.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 5 00:01:48 2010 From: drmayf To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 22:10:14 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Resent...list owner said too long mayf Duke, all.... The issue of better fuel mileage seems to periodically pop up, which is not a bad thing. The Sunbeam's drag coefficient is published at 0.45, which amounts to it being a rolling brick. At a generally constant speed, drag, which directly translates to hp and tq needed to move the car down the road, you can generally estimate the power needs based on the summation of the drag forces. At least to the point where you can convince yourselves that a change in driving habits is needed for better mileage, lol. In this case, we'll run some numbers assuming that getting to speed is done in a gentle fashion and not in some screaming kamakazi banzai manner. We'll start here: frontal area is approximately 17.9 sq ft Cd is 0.45 We won't use the mechanical or rolling resistance losses since they will be fairly constant is the range of highway speeds we'll look at Drag = 1/2 * rho * V * V * A * Cd rho = air density, in slugs.. and we will use a STP value of 0.0023718 V = car speed in ft/sec for th etwo cases, we will use 78 mph = 114.4 ft/sec and 70 mph = 102.7 ft /sec. Plugging in Drag (78) = 0.5 * 0.0023718 * 114.4 * 114.4 * 17.9 * 0.45 = 125.02 lbs Drag (70) = 0.5 * 0.0023718 * 102.7 * 102.7 * 17.9 * 0.45 = 100.8 lbs HP(78) = Drag (78) * 114.4 / 550 = 26.004 hp HP(78) = Drag (70) * 102.7 / 550 = 18.8 hp As mentioed, mechanical losses and rolling resistance adds to the power required. As can bee seen, the power difference is significant. And that power requires fuel in direct proportion. It all points to the old adage of "Speed costs, how fast do you want to go?" The best fuel mileage can be had by simply going slower. In this case a drop from 78 mph to 70 will increase your mileage quite a bit. But, it also depends on the other two facors as well. If you have happy feet then it is going to get worse mileage, happy feet being the ones that are constantly twiddling with the gas pedal: everytime you do that, it pumps raw fuel into the carb through the accelerator pump. So, my suggestions? First, slow down Second, get larger skinnier tires as fat ones have a lot more rolling resistance. In fact maybe some old bias belted tires that can be pumped up hard. High tire pressures reduce rolling resistance in those tires. Also get skinnier tires on the front and keep them pumped up. Third, get an AFR meter, not even a fancy wideband. Just one of those that have led lights and show rich or lean. Then tune the car for as lean or as close to stoic as you can. Then drive it with the AFR meter lean side led lit. Fourth, maybe get a old timey vacuum meter and put it on the dash as well. A high vacuum means best economy. Fifth, keep it tuned. Get an electronic dizzy or innerds like Pertronic. I hope this may help. But, as in all things, your milage may vary.. mayf _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 5 00:02:38 2010 From: drmayf To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 22:11:28 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? resent, list owner said too big... mayf Duke, heck, unless you have an EFI setup where you can modify the tune to get a specific table full of AFR values, then you wont need a wideband setup. The ones that address 14.7 AFR or stoic conditons shoudl be far and away enough. You will always be trying to run best economy which is lean in your case. Unless you want to rejet and go auocrossing or something then you want a best power AFR of about 12.5. If that's the case, then get an Innovate or similar with an ondash readout. I use an Innovate LC-1 with an X-1 display which can also record I think (I use a stand alone data logger so this is not important to me). Spendy, but, less so than a few years ago. If you go with a race fuel then by all means ge the less expensive one as leaded fuel kills sensors. By a big box of jets lol... Use the smallest stroke on the accel pump and a less aggressive accel pump cam. If that's the kind of carb you have. Keep the air cleaner very clean. mayf wsamouce wrote: >Yep, > >Looks like slowing down a few mph will be the best savings. > >I'll pump the Sumitomo's up to 48 lbs. > >Been really wanting to install a WB AFR sensor, it keeps getting bumped down >the list though. > >I have Accell electronic guts in the distributer and MSD wires. > >Will put the hard top on and hopefully can run with the windows up in >October. > >Thanks to you all for all of the tips and comments. > >Duke >B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 5 06:25:39 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Jim'" , "'Thomas Witt'" Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 07:49:48 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Jim I have never seen a race team ever measure a tire like that, they always check the circumference, but I have never compared the measured circumference to the roll the car one tire revolution method. Yes the weight of the car compresses the diameter of the tire some but I doubt very much that the tire circumference can change more than a mm. It does pose an interesting experiment to compare these 2 methods. Tire wear can change the diameter by of the tire .5" or more; this changes the circumference the most. Ron -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 9:41 PM To: Thomas Witt Cc: Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Measuring the 'off car' circumferance doesn't give you a very accurate 'tire revs. Per mile' as it's compressed on the bottom making the rolling diameter slightly smaller. When I sent the numbers to get a custom speedo gear for my Sprite/B210 5 sp. Conversion they asked that I mark the tire and ground with a chalk mark and then roll the car one tire revolution and make another mark on the ground and take a measurement between them to show 'rolling' circumferance... Jim B382000446 Sent from my iPhone On 2010-07-04, at 4:31 PM, "Thomas Witt" wrote: > Back in 2003 Ron Fraiser sent this to the list: > >>>> Good Question about the original tires. I don't know the real >>>> answer; I can only reverse engineer the size of the tire from the >>>> printed facts in the > manual and on hand. > > Original Tire = 5.90 x 13 - not much help here. > > 1-From the Tiger Manual - 23.92mph @ 1000 rpm Calculate tire size > using 2.88 gears Tire circumference = 72.75" - Diam. = 23.15" > > 2-Let's calculate again using the speedometer gear ratios. Speedo > cal# = 980 rev/mi, speedo cable gear = 15 teeth, > trans drive gear # B7C-17285-A = 6 teeth, 2.88 gears > This gives you 24.49mph @ 1000rpm > > Tire circumference = 74.48" - Diam = 23.71"<<< > > > A number of years ago (6 years to be more accurate) Jim Boynton sent > me the circumference of his original, barely used spare tire. It was > 74.875". > > So, for those that want to be "factory accurate" take your pick. > 72.25", 74.48", or 74.875 as each has its merits. In closing his > post Ron wrote, "I hope this helps and doesn't confuse people too > much." I would agree. > > Tom (Witt) > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim@island.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2977 - Release Date: 07/02/10 06:35:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 5 10:00:09 2010 From: David T Johnson To: drmayf@mayfco.com, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 08:23:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Why not do what they do in Kentucky. Put 13 in wheels on the front and 15 in on the back. This way you are always driving downhill. Then get one of those secret 200 mpg carbs that Detroit is hiding. Dave 90degrees on July 4th..Damn Global warming! ________________________________ From: drmayf To: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 1:10:14 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Resent...list owner said too long mayf Duke, all.... The issue of better fuel mileage seems to periodically pop up, which is not a bad thing. The Sunbeam's drag coefficient is published at 0.45, which amounts to it being a rolling brick. At a generally constant speed, drag, which directly translates to hp and tq needed to move the car down the road, you can generally estimate the power needs based on the summation of the drag forces. At least to the point where you can convince yourselves that a change in driving habits is needed for better mileage, lol. In this case, we'll run some numbers assuming that getting to speed is done in a gentle fashion and not in some screaming kamakazi banzai manner. We'll start here: frontal area is approximately 17.9 sq ft Cd is 0.45 We won't use the mechanical or rolling resistance losses since they will be fairly constant is the range of highway speeds we'll look at Drag = 1/2 * rho * V * V * A * Cd rho = air density, in slugs.. and we will use a STP value of 0.0023718 V = car speed in ft/sec for th etwo cases, we will use 78 mph = 114.4 ft/sec and 70 mph = 102.7 ft /sec. Plugging in Drag (78) = 0.5 * 0.0023718 * 114.4 * 114.4 * 17.9 * 0.45 = 125.02 lbs Drag (70) = 0.5 * 0.0023718 * 102.7 * 102.7 * 17.9 * 0.45 = 100.8 lbs HP(78) = Drag (78) * 114.4 / 550 = 26.004 hp HP(78) = Drag (70) * 102.7 / 550 = 18.8 hp As mentioed, mechanical losses and rolling resistance adds to the power required. As can bee seen, the power difference is significant. And that power requires fuel in direct proportion. It all points to the old adage of "Speed costs, how fast do you want to go?" The best fuel mileage can be had by simply going slower. In this case a drop from 78 mph to 70 will increase your mileage quite a bit. But, it also depends on the other two facors as well. If you have happy feet then it is going to get worse mileage, happy feet being the ones that are constantly twiddling with the gas pedal: everytime you do that, it pumps raw fuel into the carb through the accelerator pump. So, my suggestions? First, slow down Second, get larger skinnier tires as fat ones have a lot more rolling resistance. In fact maybe some old bias belted tires that can be pumped up hard. High tire pressures reduce rolling resistance in those tires. Also get skinnier tires on the front and keep them pumped up. Third, get an AFR meter, not even a fancy wideband. Just one of those that have led lights and show rich or lean. Then tune the car for as lean or as close to stoic as you can. Then drive it with the AFR meter lean side led lit. Fourth, maybe get a old timey vacuum meter and put it on the dash as well. A high vacuum means best economy. Fifth, keep it tuned. Get an electronic dizzy or innerds like Pertronic. I hope this may help. But, as in all things, your milage may vary.. mayf _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 5 10:30:49 2010 From: Carmods@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 11:50:48 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required This is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago. A spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly overheats as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably caused by the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes negative. For some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in lower hoses, probably some low cost un-American supplier. I found that a "Rainbird/Toro" impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it tight. You can buy a sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just to find a stainless spring. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 5 13:45:02 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 11:33:42 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? The other side is that at speed the circumference of the tire can possibly grow from centrifugal force. A grossly exaggerated example are the rear slicks on a Top Fuel dragster. So, the static measurement might just be the best "averaged" measurement. Interestingly in Fred Phun's book "How to make your car handle" (page 119 - at the bottom) it states that manufactures allow up to 7% variations regarding tire dimensions for a given size (Tire & Rim Association, Inc.). That 7% is equal to 2:88 gears becoming right about 3.07 gears if you are changing tires from both extremes of that 7% limit. By the way, I always thought the 7% factor would be a good argument to get out of a mildly over the limit speeding ticket. :-) Tom (Witt) _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 5 14:14:47 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: tigers@autox.team.net, Carmods@aol.com Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 12:14:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required GOOD post John and very true to members to new to know that spring saves your butt at given times and the stainless spring should out last the owner I'm many cases- unfortunately for all us older gentleman. Cheers TonytheTiger - , July 5, 2010, 10:50 AM This is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago. A spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly overheats as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably caused by the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes negative. For some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in lower hoses, probably some low cost un-American supplier. I found that a "Rainbird/Toro" impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it tight. You can buy a sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just to find a stainless spring. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 5 14:44:49 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: atwittsend@verizon.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 16:04:29 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires? Around here the speed courts do just that if you bring it up. They allow a 5% variance in the amount the radar reads or officer states. That sometimes can make a huge difference in the fine or the points on your license. Mark In a message dated 7/5/2010 3:45:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, atwittsend@verizon.net writes: The other side is that at speed the circumference of the tire can possibly grow from centrifugal force. A grossly exaggerated example are the rear slicks on a Top Fuel dragster. So, the static measurement might just be the best "averaged" measurement. Interestingly in Fred Phun's book "How to make your car handle" (page 119 - at the bottom) it states that manufactures allow up to 7% variations regarding tire dimensions for a given size (Tire & Rim Association, Inc.). That 7% is equal to 2:88 gears becoming right about 3.07 gears if you are changing tires from both extremes of that 7% limit. By the way, I always thought the 7% factor would be a good argument to get out of a mildly over the limit speeding ticket. :-) Tom (Witt) _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 5 17:48:11 2010 From: Allan Ballard To: mcdangerous@verizon.net Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 19:09:53 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Carburetor(s) for the Tiger Well the WORST carb may be a remanufactured holley 2 bbl -- mine has left me stranded in downtown Atlanta, waiting on a tow... On Jun 21, 2010, at 12:05 PM, mcdangerous@verizon.net wrote: > > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 5 21:25:38 2010 From: Mark J Bradakis To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 20:53:23 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] ATT Troubles Those of you who have email that gets routed in various ways through AT&T, like att.net, sbcglobal.net, pacbell, etc. Have most likely not seen any Team.Net email for a few days. For some reason AT&T was blocking Team.Net. I have no idea why, what started it, and you folks don't pay me enough to waste a day on the phone sifting through an endless stream of clueless "tech support" drones to find out why. I have gotten the block removed and am in the process of getting the effected addresses back into normal operation. Thank you for your patience. mjb. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 05:57:37 2010 From: Randy Smith To: Tiger List Serve Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 07:02:18 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question Anybody have a part number (possibly Napa or the like) or a typical source application for a GM one-wire alternator so I don't drive my parts guy nuts looking for one? Thanks- Randy -- Randy Smith INNER QUEST, Inc. 34752 Charles Town Pike Purcellville, VA 20132 703-478-1078 540-668-6699 540-668-6253 fax InnerQuestOnline.com RSSmithIQ@cs.com Tiger- B382000189 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 09:33:26 2010 From: "Dave Munroe" To: "Randy Smith" , "Tiger List Serve" Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 11:55:25 -0300 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Alternator Question Randy: I have a Delco Remy 1102480 on my Tiger. Nice little unit, very common, rated as a "high output", but I couldn't find any specs to compare it to a non "high output" unit. Works well for me. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Smith" To: "Tiger List Serve" Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 8:02 AM Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question > Anybody have a part number (possibly Napa or the like) or a typical > source application for a GM one-wire alternator so I don't drive my > parts guy nuts looking for one? > > Thanks- Randy > -- > > Randy Smith > INNER QUEST, Inc. > 34752 Charles Town Pike > Purcellville, VA 20132 > 703-478-1078 > 540-668-6699 > 540-668-6253 fax > > InnerQuestOnline.com > RSSmithIQ@cs.com > Tiger- B382000189 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave@munroe.ca _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 09:33:41 2010 From: "Dave Munroe" To: "Randy Smith" , "Tiger List Serve" Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 11:59:26 -0300 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Alternator Question Randy: I found this: 1975 Corvette Delco-Remy Alternators Generator Amp Rating Application 1100544 61 Early with C60 Air Conditioning 1100597 61 Early with UA1 Heavy-Duty Battery 1100950 42 L48 & Early L82 1102394 37 2nd Production L48 (unverified) 1102474 61 2nd Production with C60 Air Conditioning 1102480 ( THIS ONE ) 61 2nd Production with UA1 Heavy-Duty Battery 1102483 37 Early L48 (unverified) 1102484 42 2nd Production L82 HTH, Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Smith" To: "Tiger List Serve" Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 8:02 AM Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question > Anybody have a part number (possibly Napa or the like) or a typical > source application for a GM one-wire alternator so I don't drive my > parts guy nuts looking for one? > > Thanks- Randy > -- > > Randy Smith > INNER QUEST, Inc. > 34752 Charles Town Pike > Purcellville, VA 20132 > 703-478-1078 > 540-668-6699 > 540-668-6253 fax > > InnerQuestOnline.com > RSSmithIQ@cs.com > Tiger- B382000189 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave@munroe.ca _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 10:04:18 2010 From: Owain Lloyd To: CoolVT@aol.com Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 16:25:52 +0100 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Carburetor(s) for the Tiger last november we cruised through all of france and spain at 100-110mph all the way with a 3.07 and toploader. we got about 16 imperial mpg (~13 m/USg) and spent about $6000 on fuel for the whole morocco rally. my rev limiter kicks in at about 128mph in 4th i think. i had to do an oil change when we arrived in malaga as without an oil cooler, the oil was running at 300F all the way. in fact it was the oil temp that governed the speed we cruised at. in the uk i tend to sit at about 90mph if there's not much traffic, which is pretty comfortable. i know you guys tend to drive slower in the states but even there it depends on where you are. last year, my trip from downtown chicago to SUNI was just over 900 miles and we averaged 97mph all the way including 4 or 5 stops for gas off the highway and with my wife sleeping in the passenger seat. no tickets - even in wisconsin. of course that wasn't in a tiger .... those big empty roads through Minnesota and s. Dakota need to be driven at about 140 to keep you awake.... unless its dark when over 130, the headlights don't reach far enough to see properly :) On Tue, Jun 22, 2010 at 12:21 AM, wrote: > Hey, how fast do you guys drive:-) Someone wrote and talked about 3,800 > rpm at 78 mph. Do you really have place where you can cruise at 78? If > so, I can see why the mileage suffers. > Mark > > > In a message dated 6/21/2010 7:17:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > tkparker1941@gmail.com writes: > > Ron, > > I'm certainly not doubting you, and you've given me something to shoot > for. > Thanks! > > Tom > > On Mon, Jun 21, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Ron Fraser > wrote: > > > > > > > BTW, when the Tiger ran I'd have been proud to get 18 - 20 MPG at > highway > > speeds. I think 28 MPG is a tad high with a 4 speed, improbable even > with a > > carbureted engine and a 5 speed, but probable with a 5 speed, fuel > injection > > and an engine management system. > > > > > > > > I easily get 25 MPG and my friends MK II with 600 cfm, 4 bbl gets about > 22 > > MPG. I once saw 29 MPG but only once. I'm pushing the ignition and > carb > > tune on my 260 to the max and I hope to cross the 30 MPG mark. If I do > > cross 30 MPG constantly I will report back on that. > > > > Ron Fraser > > > > 260, 2 bbl, 4sp > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 12:02:38 2010 From: mcdangerous@verizon.net To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 12:27:39 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Tigers] testing _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 13:18:18 2010 From: Howard gentry To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 11:32:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] speeding owaing, please anounce when and where you will be driving..I will be about three states away..going the other way..thank you zym.. The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 14:18:21 2010 From: Peter L To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 12:22:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] griffin radiator does anyone have the model number for the griffin radiator thats the right application for the tiger? thks ps - tried searching on TU, no hit for "griffin" _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 18:27:06 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Peter L , Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 19:45:44 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] griffin radiator I have mine out of my car. I think it still has a label on it. Stand by and I'll check. Cheers. On 7/6/10 3:22 PM, "Peter L" wrote: > does anyone have the model number for the griffin radiator thats the right > application for the tiger? thks > > ps - tried searching on TU, no hit for "griffin" > > > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 20:01:15 2010 From: "Teepen, Jere" To: Peter L , "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 21:04:15 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] griffin radiator Contact Doug Jennings at the Tiger/Alpine Clubhouse, 937-252-3317. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter L Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 12:22 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] griffin radiator does anyone have the model number for the griffin radiator thats the right application for the tiger? thks ps - tried searching on TU, no hit for "griffin" _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 20:01:27 2010 From: "Teepen, Jere" To: "Carmods@aol.com" , "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 21:05:59 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required A less expensive alternative is to buy a universal fit spiral hose in the same length as the lower hose and remove the spring from it, then wind into the new lower hose. Done. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carmods@aol.com Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 8:51 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required This is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago. A spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly overheats as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably caused by the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes negative. For some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in lower hoses, probably some low cost un-American supplier. I found that a "Rainbird/Toro" impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it tight. You can buy a sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just to find a stainless spring. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 20:02:19 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 21:25:00 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Horn Ring Repair Has anyone successfully repaired a broken horn ring? Mine separated where the spoke joins the hub. I've tried epoxy, but it didn't hold. I thought I cleaned the metal well. Any other suggestions? Mark L _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 20:02:30 2010 From: Tony McNulty To: Peter L , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 21:25:38 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] griffin radiator Try this .... http://www.griffinrad.com/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter L" To: Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:22 PM Subject: [Tigers] griffin radiator > does anyone have the model number for the griffin radiator thats the right > application for the tiger? thks > > ps - tried searching on TU, no hit for "griffin" > > > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bamcnulty@optonline.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 20:02:59 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Peter L , Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 21:27:15 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] griffin radiator OK. My Griffin radiator has two stickers on it. One is a green and white inspection sticker. The other is a white rectangular label with a bar code and two numbers, one above and one below. The top number has one character (the second character) that is partially marred. It looks like 9R-07671-01. The "R" may be wrong, but I really do think it is an "R". The bottom number is 00110021. I hope that helps! On 7/6/10 3:22 PM, "Peter L" wrote: > does anyone have the model number for the griffin radiator thats the right > application for the tiger? thks > > ps - tried searching on TU, no hit for "griffin" > > > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 20:03:10 2010 From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 21:31:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question Tiger on E-bay, 120592209199 Has dual reservoir master cylinder. Any one have info on this? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 21:01:54 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: CoolVT@aol.com, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 22:10:06 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Horn Ring Repair If you know someone who works on sprinklers either as a business or as maintenance at a condo project or such, ask them to save the springs when they replace the sprinkler heads. I have a few from just replacing the heads around my house over the years. M In a message dated 7/6/2010 10:03:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, CoolVT@aol.com writes: Has anyone successfully repaired a broken horn ring? Mine separated where the spoke joins the hub. I've tried epoxy, but it didn't hold. I thought I cleaned the metal well. Any other suggestions? Mark L _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 21:58:30 2010 From: michael king To: CoolVT@aol.com Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 13:07:11 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Horn Ring Repair The original design is flawed, people have strenghtened them with solder on the backs IIRC.. but the best bet is to get a repro from Rick, they are meant to be stronger. Another thing that leads to them breaking is that they are not adjusted right and require to much prerssure to activate, hence the breakage. On 7 July 2010 11:25, wrote: > Has anyone successfully repaired a broken horn ring? Mine separated where > the spoke joins the hub. I've tried epoxy, but it didn't hold. I thought > I > cleaned the metal well. Any other suggestions? > Mark L > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 22:29:04 2010 From: Tom Parker To: AAAGLASSS@aol.com Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 23:51:42 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question Tim Suddard used one from a Subaru (if memory serves) on his Tiger in Classic Motorsports. Tom On Tue, Jul 6, 2010 at 9:31 PM, wrote: > Tiger on E-bay, 120592209199 Has dual reservoir master cylinder. Any one > have info on this? > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 6 22:58:56 2010 From: "Buck Trippel" To: Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 21:07:24 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] TU Long Beach 2011 As many of you already know, the 2011 TU will be held in Long Beach, California, June 16-19th. The Queen Mary will be the host hotel and reservations are now being taken for the limited number of rooms at our special rate ($125/night). For details, please contact me off list. thanks, Buck Trippel _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 06:29:33 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: , Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 07:36:32 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question I'd also be interested in knowing of a dual master cylinder that would work to separate the front from the rear braking circuit. I heard a Volvo unit might work. Subaru too? Cool. Has anyone done this? Any tips on how to best do it? Thanks! On 7/6/10 9:31 PM, "AAAGLASSS@aol.com" wrote: > Tiger on E-bay, 120592209199 Has dual reservoir master cylinder. Any one > have info on this? > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 06:30:49 2010 From: Bill Waite To: Tiger Talk List Tiger Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:55:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Test Still not receiving messages from the Tiger List. Got bounced off the list somehow and have tried everything to get resubscribed. Posting this message to see if i get it back from the List server. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 07:28:09 2010 From: "Joe Parlanti" To: "'Would U. Believe'" , , Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 08:38:26 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number off of the part if no one else has it. Joe Parlanti B382000026 Snip... _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 08:02:40 2010 From: michael king To: Joe Parlanti Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 23:30:24 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question Its the 260Z datsun one isnt it? IIRC Dale used to sell them.. i know there is a datsun pickup one that can be used and the subaru.. then there was someone who had worked out a wilwood that could be used. On 7 July 2010 22:38, Joe Parlanti wrote: > I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can > be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number > off of the part if no one else has it. > > Joe Parlanti > B382000026 > > > Snip... > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 08:30:19 2010 From: "Joe Parlanti" To: "'michael king'" Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:34:13 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question I know Larry Paulick is running a Wilwood system on his car. Joseph V. Parlanti 16048 Copen Meadow Dr North Potomac, Md. 20878 Cell - 301-461-0626 Email - Parlanti@comcast.net From: michael king [mailto:michael.s.king@gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 9:30 AM To: Joe Parlanti Cc: Would U. Believe; AAAGLASSS@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question Its the 260Z datsun one isnt it? IIRC Dale used to sell them.. i know there is a datsun pickup one that can be used and the subaru.. then there was someone who had worked out a wilwood that could be used. On 7 July 2010 22:38, Joe Parlanti wrote: I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number off of the part if no one else has it. Joe Parlanti B382000026 Snip... _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 08:30:49 2010 From: "Bill Waite" To: "Tiger Talk List Tiger" Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:51:32 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Test Back on. I had not received the message that Mark Bradakis sent our regarding ATT & sbcglobal (Mark Rense sent me a copy). AT&T screwed up. Thanks Mark B for your efforts fixing the problem. ---- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Waite" To: "Tiger Talk List Tiger" Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 7:55 AM Subject: [Tigers] Test > Still not receiving messages from the Tiger List. Got bounced off the > list > somehow and have tried everything to get resubscribed. Posting this > message > to > see if i get it back from the List server. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fordlandia@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 09:02:48 2010 From: mcdangerous@verizon.net To: Parlanti@comcast.net Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 09:15:24 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question A part number would be great! I'm sure there is more than one would work -- Volvo, Datsun, Wilwood, etc. I'd also love to have instructions on, or pictures of, how and where the circuits are separated. Since m engine bay is empty, now would be a good time for me to do this! Cool beans. Thanks. Jul 7, 2010 07:38:30 AM, Parlanti@comcast.net wrote: I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number off of the part if no one else has it. Joe Parlanti B382000026 Snip... _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 09:29:44 2010 From: Peter L To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 07:34:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up i think ive decided to replace my rusty exhaust with a stainless set up from sunbeam spec, incl the stainless downpipes (i am using stock cast iron exhaust manifolds). i just realized in talking with SS that the package includes the muffler. question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a flowmaster 40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound of the muffler sold as part of SS kit? rick said it is "sports car like" but everyone has their own interpretation. thks. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 09:29:59 2010 From: "Buck Trippel" To: "michael king" , "Joe Parlanti" Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 07:40:42 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question Michael, I'm not aware of the Datsun pickup application but probably the most popular dual circuit MC for a Tiger is the one off the Mazda B3000 pickup truck. This truck was also sold in the US as a Ford Courier. It works great with a stock Tiger. However if you've changed to much larger calipers then something larger like the Subaru or Datsun may be needed. However the longer the MC, the harder it is to fit into the allowable space. Buck Trippel ----- Original Message ----- From: "michael king" To: "Joe Parlanti" Cc: ; Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 6:30 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question > Its the 260Z datsun one isnt it? IIRC Dale used to sell them.. i know > there > is a datsun pickup one that can be used and the subaru.. then there was > someone who had worked out a wilwood that could be used. > > On 7 July 2010 22:38, Joe Parlanti wrote: > >> I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits >> can >> be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number >> off of the part if no one else has it. >> >> Joe Parlanti >> B382000026 >> >> >> Snip... >> _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 10:01:59 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" To: "=?utf-8?B?Sm9lIFBhcmxhbnRp?=" Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 10:27:54 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Master_Cylinder_Question?= Is there a step by step so as to expedite installation? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Joe Parlanti" Date: Wed, Jul 7, 2010 08:34 Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question To: "'michael king'" Cc: , I know Larry Paulick is running a Wilwood system on his car. Joseph V. Parlanti 16048 Copen Meadow Dr North Potomac, Md. 20878 Cell - 301-461-0626 Email - Parlanti@comcast.net From: michael king [mailto:michael.s.king@gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 9:30 AM To: Joe Parlanti Cc: Would U. Believe; AAAGLASSS@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question Its the 260Z datsun one isnt it? IIRC Dale used to sell them.. i know there is a datsun pickup one that can be used and the subaru.. then there was someone who had worked out a wilwood that could be used. On 7 July 2010 22:38, Joe Parlanti wrote: I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number off of the part if no one else has it. Joe Parlanti B382000026 Snip... _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 10:59:43 2010 From: Dan Fitzgerald To: "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 12:21:26 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale List, It has come time for me to sell my Tiger. It has been a great ride and a lot of fun to restore. But, now looking into other activities. I will be posting to EBay this week with photo's of the car, and will send the item number to the list. Dan Fitzgerald B9470033FE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 11:00:01 2010 From: "Jim" To: , Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:28:22 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question I'm running a little larger bore than most. I consulted with Dale A. and a few others before putting it in. It's a 1979 Datsun 280ZX tandem master. I've uploaded some pics of the installation on Flickr showing the line routing etc. ... http://www.flickr.com/photos/51418115@N07/sets/ I'm liking the format there so may upload some of my other projects in the future... Jim B382000446 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mcdangerous@verizon.net Sent: July 7, 2010 7:15 AM To: Parlanti@comcast.net Cc: AAAGLASSS@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question A part number would be great! I'm sure there is more than one would work -- Volvo, Datsun, Wilwood, etc. I'd also love to have instructions on, or pictures of, how and where the circuits are separated. Since m engine bay is empty, now would be a good time for me to do this! Cool beans. Thanks. Jul 7, 2010 07:38:30 AM, Parlanti@comcast.net wrote: I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number off of the part if no one else has it. Joe Parlanti B382000026 Snip... _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim@island.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 11:55:28 2010 From: Dan Fitzgerald To: Tiger List , "tigers-bounces@autox.team.net" Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 13:03:03 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] FW: Mk 1 for Sale All, It has come time for me to sell my Tiger. It has been a great ride and a lot of fun to restore. But, now looking into other activities with the family. I will be posting to EBay this week with photo's of the car, and will send the item number to the list. Dan Fitzgerald B9470033FE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 12:27:08 2010 From: Carmods@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 13:32:26 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question Do any of you know what the cylinder diameters are on the Subaru, Volvo, and and other dual master cylinders? John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 12:27:54 2010 From: mcdangerous@verizon.net To: Carmods@aol.com Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 12:33:39 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required That's a good idea, but I would like to let anyone who's working on his or her cooling system like I am that I've located the actual, correct, stainless steel spring for the lower radiator hose of the SBF for only $5.36. By going this way, you can get a correct-looking radiator hose with the necessary and purpose-made spring inside. This one is stainless steel too, which is really important in this case. Here's the link for the part: http://sitesearch.cjponyparts.com/search?keywords=HW769+&search_btn=+ I hope this is helpful! Jul 5, 2010 11:31:47 AM, Carmods@aol.com wrote: This is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago. A spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly overheats as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably caused by the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes negative. For some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in lower hoses, probably some low cost un-American supplier. I found that a "Rainbird/Toro" impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it tight. You can buy a sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just to find a stainless spring. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 12:58:18 2010 From: Gary To: Jim Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 10:57:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question Jim, With the dual master in the way how do you change the left rear plug? Through the firewall or can you get it from the top? Gary --- On Wed, 7/7/10, Jim wrote: From: Jim Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question To: mcdangerous@verizon.net, Parlanti@comcast.net Cc: AAAGLASSS@aol.com, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, July 7, 2010, 9:28 AM I'm running a little larger bore than most. I consulted with Dale A. and a few others before putting it in. It's a 1979 Datsun 280ZX tandem master. I've uploaded some pics of the installation on Flickr showing the line routing etc. ... http://www.flickr.com/photos/51418115@N07/sets/ I'm liking the format there so may upload some of my other projects in the future... Jim B382000446 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mcdangerous@verizon.net Sent: July 7, 2010 7:15 AM To: Parlanti@comcast.net Cc: AAAGLASSS@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question A part number would be great! I'm sure there is more than one would work -- Volvo, Datsun, Wilwood, etc. I'd also love to have instructions on, or pictures of, how and where the circuits are separated. Since m engine bay is empty, now would be a good time for me to do this! Cool beans. Thanks. Jul 7, 2010 07:38:30 AM, Parlanti@comcast.net wrote: I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number off of the part if no one else has it. Joe Parlanti B382000026 Snip... _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim@island.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/maliburevue@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 13:38:24 2010 From: Tod Brown To: tigers@autox.team.net, Peter L Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 14:53:49 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Exhaust I have a stainless system on my Tiger which was put on about eight years ago. I don't believe it came from SS - my recollection is VB (I could be wrong on this). In my judgment it is loud, unlike the original system, which I liked. I went so far as to add an extra resonator to each side in an effort to reduce the volume, without too much success. As time has passed, I have grown to accept it, but I would still like a little more basso profundo in keeping with a V8. I don't know how many suppliers of stainless exhaust systems there are for Tigers so ymmv. If I had to do it again (and the idea with stainless was to not have to) I would go a different route. I think I have seen some good diy's on TU about this. Cheers, Tod B382002384LRXFE Remember to register online for Sunbeams United XXIX in Maine, October 8 - 10. Go to http://teae.org for more information. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 14:56:52 2010 From: "Robin Young" To: "'Peter L'" , Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 16:13:17 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up Peter Wrote: question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a flowmaster 40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound of the muffler Peter, I have used the Series 40 and it does produce a great sound but, Flowmaster also makes a stainless Tri-delta that fits well and is quieter at idle, but roars when the throttle is opened. Just a comment. RObin _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 16:29:05 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 17:55:11 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required ... I think the very best alternative is to buy a purpose-made stainless steel lower radiator hose spring for SBF for all of $5.36. The cost is minimal and, in this way, you can have a correct-looking lower radiator hose with the protection and corrosion resistance of a stainless steel part. I thought I should share this with anyone who is working on their cooling systems like I am. Here's the link: http://www.cjponyparts.com/product.asp?pn=HW769&utm_source=google&utm_medium =merchant&utm_campaign=shopping I hope this is helpful! On 7/5/10 11:50 AM, "Carmods@aol.com" wrote: > This is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago. > A spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly > overheats as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably > caused > by the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes > negative. > For some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in > lower hoses, probably some low cost un-American supplier. I found that a > "Rainbird/Toro" impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works > great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it tight. You can buy a > sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just to find a stainless > spring. > John Logan > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 17:26:59 2010 From: "Jerry" To: "Robin Young" , "'Peter L'" Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 17:31:56 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up I have used the Flowmaster 40 series with the Deltaflow technology for many years and really like the sound of it. You might try that. It's not quite as loud as the standard Deltaflow. Jerry Christopherson 373408 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robin Young" To: "'Peter L'" ; Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 3:13 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up > Peter Wrote: > > question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a flowmaster > 40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound > of > the muffler > > Peter, > > I have used the Series 40 and it does produce a great sound but, > Flowmaster > also makes a stainless Tri-delta that fits well and is quieter at idle, > but > roars when the throttle is opened. Just a comment. RObin > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 18:01:19 2010 From: David T Johnson To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 16:27:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Dual Master Cylinder For those near Dayton, contact John Engle, ex TEAE President. His dual master cylinder is incredibly nice. Its really a dual Girling master cylinder side by side. He made it all including a dual circuit to work both master with the one brake peddle. You won't believe the workmanship. His car is nearly as perfect as a personalized Tiger can be. John how about some pictures? Dave _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 18:30:21 2010 From: Allan Ballard To: "Jerry" Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 19:33:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up Is that the muffler used on McQueen's Mustang in Bullit? I'd sorta like to clone that sound, if it can be done with a stock Tiger. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMc2RdFuOxI Allan On Jul 7, 2010, at 6:31 PM, Jerry wrote: > I have used the Flowmaster 40 series with the Deltaflow technology for many years and really like the sound of it. You might try that. It's not quite as loud as the standard Deltaflow. Jerry Christopherson 373408 > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robin Young" > To: "'Peter L'" ; > Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 3:13 PM > Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up > > >> Peter Wrote: >> >> question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a flowmaster >> 40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound >> of >> the muffler >> >> Peter, >> >> I have used the Series 40 and it does produce a great sound but, Flowmaster >> also makes a stainless Tri-delta that fits well and is quieter at idle, but >> roars when the throttle is opened. Just a comment. RObin >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 18:32:07 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 16:42:05 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question I have the Datsun master cylinder on my Tiger. In my case it came off a mid-70's 610. The Datsun M/C comes in two general sizes. I think for the Tiger (assuming your not running a booster) you would want the 3/4". That is what I have. The other size I recall is 11/16". This is what I find on almost all the Z cars. A couple of notes on installation. First, people often recommend the early 70's pick up truck M/C (3/4"). The reason is it did not have a booster (nor did the early 510's - 3/4" also). My M/C came off a boosted 610. I had to modify an actuation rod because booster cars do not have a "captured" rod. In the end I got an adjustable rod off a non boosted Volvo 122 and ground the round tip to fit. The piston retainer at the end of the cylinder was too large from the Volvo. I had to grind it to fit. The task is sort of like trying to grind a nickel down to the diameter of a penny. I just let it slip/spin on the rod until to ground to fit. It wasn't pretty, but it works just fine. Just get it small enough to fit the hole, but large enough for the retaining clip to hold. The adjustable aspect of the Volvo rod was a great benefit in the final assembly. Additionally, the two mounting holes need to be files slightly to match the Tiger. Lastly getting it plumbed in was a task. I thought I could find and adapter that took the flared end of a Datsun metric brake line and connect it to the flared end of the Tiger brake line. I looked FOREVER and never found anything. Apparently there is an adapter that changes the fitting right at the M/C. I never found that either. Someone recommended a Dave Brean??? to have had the part. In the end I'm just re-flaring my lines to a common standard using the Datsun metric line for a portion of the run. If someone out there has a complete kit and you have the money I'd say just buy it. Otherwise if your a cheap-o like me you will struggle to gather and adapt all you need. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 18:32:14 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 16:50:39 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up I have a Flowmaster 50 series on my 318 Valiant. Even though the 3 chamber, 50 series is suppose to be quieter (than the 40's) I still get a horrible resonance from about 1,900 RPM to exactly 2,600 RPM, then it drops right off. While it probably doesn't help that I'm running a single muffler with 3" pipe I still hate the noise being right in the typical driving band. Others may have different experiences as there are a lot of factors that result in the final sound one hears. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 18:32:21 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Peter L , Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 19:56:14 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up I have a new Sunbeam Specialties stainless system on my car. To be honest, I am not an expert on the sound of these engines, so it's hard to judge or describe it. I am used to sounds like sport mufflers on Porsches, Remus sport systems on BMW M cars, etc. Those get my blood flowing, so to speak. I will tell you that I wish the Tiger had a more aggressive sound, which absolutely does not mean louder or droning to me. How can I describe the sound of these mufflers?... The car sounds pretty OK with the throttle wide open, but it isn't at all a turn on to me when idling or running calmly. I have actually been considering the idea of replacing the mufflers with something else to give it a more burbly, free-flowing sound. Having said all of that, there are no Tigers I've seen or heard on the road around me, so maybe mine is as good as they should sound. I can tell you that the Cobra club meets up the street from me every Saturday and those cars sound much cooler to me than my Tiger. I hate to put down the Sunbeam Specialties mufflers, but they honestly don't scratch my itch. But you know what they say about opinions... On 7/7/10 10:34 AM, "Peter L" wrote: > i think ive decided to replace my rusty exhaust with a stainless set up from > sunbeam spec, incl the stainless downpipes (i am using stock cast iron exhaust > manifolds). i just realized in talking with SS that the package includes the > muffler. question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a flowmaster > 40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound of > the muffler sold as part of SS kit? rick said it is "sports car like" but > everyone has their own interpretation. thks. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 19:00:38 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Tiger's Den Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 17:23:28 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Get Hosed! Get "Hosed"! / /Totally agree about the internal water hoses should internal springs, as original. Especially important on the inlet hose, due to pump suction collapsing the hose. The you are "really hosed". On the original request for the correct hoses means, I believe, for the Original Hose Clamps that were on the car when it left the factory. I believe they were "double-wire" type, not worm drive, and CAD plated, not stainless. Here are a few references: Heater hoses, and such: / http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Two_spring_Hose_Clamps_-_small.jpg /The original radiator hose clamps (I Think) ($ 2.05) can be seen on: / http://www.englishparts.com/products/CLAMP--RADIATOR-HOSE-WIRE-TYPE--1-38-TO-1-916-IN-HOSE/7275/326-430.html /TBON (The Book of Norman) shows the water and oil cap vent hoses with the "wire-type", and heater as the simple plain clamp band. He says (pp153): 1. "All 1/2" hoses were CAD plated English "band clamps.". 2. "All 5/8" hose clamps used CAD plated English "double wire clamps" at all but three locations." 3. "The water pump by-pass hose was clamped with CAD plated Ford screw clamps at both ends" 4. "The heater core return hose was clamped with a CAD plated Ford screw clamped with clamp at the elbow manifold fitting." 5. "Upper and lower radiator hoses were clamped with CAD plated English double wire clamps" Now. are you SURE you want that 100 point concourse medal? -- Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 19:26:46 2010 From: "John R. Engle" To: "David T Johnson" , Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 20:42:52 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dual Master Cylinder I think Dave has me confused with someone else's car. I still have the original master cylinder. Perhaps Hugh Guyne's car with the dual master setup that was developed by Doug Jennings at Tiger Auto is what he is referring to? John E ----- Original Message ----- From: "David T Johnson" To: Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 7:27 PM Subject: [Tigers] Dual Master Cylinder > For those near Dayton, contact John Engle, ex TEAE President. > His dual master > cylinder is incredibly nice. Its really a dual > Girling master cylinder side > by side. He made it all including > a dual circuit to work both master with the > one brake peddle. > You won't believe the workmanship. His car is nearly as > perfect as a personalized Tiger can be. > > John how about some pictures? > > Dave > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tigermaniac@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 7 20:26:07 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: mcdangerous@verizon.net, laurin212@yahoo.com, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 21:38:23 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up For about fifty bucks you should be able to pick up 2 el-cheapo glass paks....available in many pipe sizes and lengths. I've been happy with mine for close to 20 years. If you like a little more crackling sound get the Cherry Bomb glass paks. Mark _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 13:03:52 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 11:39:17 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] A "different" Alger Could this be the oldest "Alger" or a proto-type Tiger that was "late to the ball?" :-) http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.britishv8.org/MG/DaleSpooner/dalerearaxle.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.britishv8.org/MG/DaleSpooner.htm&usg=__AQyI9COcb3mkCn23KPCJIxdG9Eo=&h=390&w=600&sz=29&hl=en&start=3&itbs=1&tbnid=xN7TcDiGiFCmeM:&tbnh=88&tbnw=135&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dford%2B8%2522%2Brear%2Bend%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D18%26tbs%3Disch:1 I'm not too fond of the stock version of this car, but this is pretty cool. Neither am I fan of side pipes, but in this case they really help with the looks. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 13:04:39 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 11:43:19 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected Could this be the oldest "Alger" or a proto-type Tiger that was "late to the ball?" :-) http://www.britishv8.org/Other/WilfredPotter.htm I'm not too fond of the stock version of this car, but this is pretty cool. Neither am I fan of side pipes, but in this case they really help with the looks. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 14:00:28 2010 From: "Teepen, Jere" To: Thomas Witt , "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 15:35:40 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected I recently saw (do not recall where) a "kit" that included all of the necessary components to easily create a Ford small block powered MGB. The kit looked very comprehensive with new crossmember, etc.. How about a Sebring MGB-GT clone with Ford power? Yummy. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Witt Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 11:43 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected Could this be the oldest "Alger" or a proto-type Tiger that was "late to the ball?" :-) http://www.britishv8.org/Other/WilfredPotter.htm I'm not too fond of the stock version of this car, but this is pretty cool. Neither am I fan of side pipes, but in this case they really help with the looks. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 15:01:26 2010 From: arado7@sbcglobal.net To: JereTeepen Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 13:47:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected I have a new to me two seat roadster. a V6 powered. Crossfire SRT6 in triple black. cost less than building a Cobra kit. Gary. B9472283. unmodified. --- On Thu, 7/8/10, Teepen, Jere wrote: From: Teepen, Jere Subject: Re: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected To: "Thomas Witt" , "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Thursday, July 8, 2010, 7:35 PM I recently saw (do not recall where) a "kit" that included all of the necessary components to easily create a Ford small block powered MGB. The kit looked very comprehensive with new crossmember, etc.. How about a Sebring MGB-GT clone with Ford power? Yummy. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Witt Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 11:43 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected Could this be the oldest "Alger" or a proto-type Tiger that was "late to the ball?" :-) http://www.britishv8.org/Other/WilfredPotter.htm I'm not too fond of the stock version of this car, but this is pretty cool. Neither am I fan of side pipes, but in this case they really help with the looks. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/arado7@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 16:46:48 2010 From: Gabbard Gabbard To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 15:29:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Tiger shifter handle Looking for a toploader shifter handle. Alex Gabbard _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 19:13:46 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 20:55:16 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? Thanks! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 19:44:37 2010 From: michael king To: "Would U. Believe" Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 11:24:42 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? The WSM recommends 10W-30 oil On 9 July 2010 10:55, Would U. Believe wrote: > I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. > Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want > to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? > Thanks! > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 19:44:56 2010 From: Jeffery Randall To: "Would U. Believe" Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 21:29:15 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? Hi Guy . DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC TO BREAK IN A NEW ENGINE The rings won t seat and it will puke oil out the exhast. I use Castrol GTX 10W40 or20W50 depending on temp. Run it 100 miles then change oil and filter andrive at least 1000mi before you change again You can start synthetic after 3000mi On Thu, Jul 8, 2010 at 8:55 PM, Would U. Believe wrote: > I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. > Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want > to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? > Thanks! > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 20:00:20 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: michael king Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 21:41:35 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? Cool, thanks. On 7/8/10 9:24 PM, "michael king" wrote: > The WSM recommends 10W-30 oil > > On 9 July 2010 10:55, Would U. Believe wrote: >> I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. >> Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want >> to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? >> Thanks! >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 20:00:34 2010 From: "Thomas Prager" To: "Would U. Believe" Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 20:42:55 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I am running 20/50 dino, but now that I have 5,000 miles on the motor I am considering switching to synthetic oil. Is there any reason to stick with conventional oil? tom 9472154 ----- Original Message ----- From: Would U. Believe To: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 7:55 PM Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? Thanks! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tcprager@hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 20:22:02 2010 From: "Buck Trippel" To: "Would U. Believe" , Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 18:46:08 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I use Joe Gibbs 15-50 Break-in oil for flat tappet cams. Pricey but cheaper than a new cam & lifters. Buck Trippel ----- Original Message ----- From: "Would U. Believe" To: Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 5:55 PM Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? >I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. > Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want > to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? > Thanks! > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bucktrippel@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 20:35:18 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Would U. Believe'" , Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 22:01:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? Have you already done a break in run on the engine? I would use 10W30 not 20W50 plus a bottle of break in oil that has all the high pressure additives for the break in run unless you have a roller cam which does not need the additives. I would continue to run 10W30 or 10W40 as regular oil. Some of the oils have more of the additive but I'm not sure off hand which ones. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:55 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? Thanks! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2983 - Release Date: 07/08/10 18:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 20:35:35 2010 From: Rob Bernardino To: "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 22:03:51 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] (no subject) C. Robert Bernardino MD FACS Associate Professor of Ophthalmology Director, Ophthalmic Plastics and Orbital Surgery Residency Program Directort Sent from my iPhone 4 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 20:46:37 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: , Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 22:26:52 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? No. The engine has not been started yet. I plan to use a zinc break-in additive with whatever oil I use. It's very warm out here in the DC area, so I was thinking of the heavier weight oil. I guess the best bet is what the WSM and you suggest (10W30). Thanks. On 7/8/10 10:01 PM, "Ron Fraser" wrote: > Have you already done a break in run on the engine? I would use > 10W30 not 20W50 plus a bottle of break in oil that has all the high pressure > additives for the break in run unless you have a roller cam which does not > need the additives. I would continue to run 10W30 or 10W40 as regular oil. > Some of the oils have more of the additive but I'm not sure off hand which > ones. > > Ron Fraser > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Would U. Believe > Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:55 PM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? > > > I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. > Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want > to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? > Thanks! _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2983 - Release Date: 07/08/10 > 18:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 20:46:40 2010 From: "Peter Laurinaitis" To: Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 22:31:43 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up thanks for all the feedback. i ordered 2 sets of stainless exhaust systems from SS, will slap one on the unrestored "driver" and the other on the beauty queen coming out of restoration. ill keep you posted on how i like the set up. if my wife complains its still too loud, then it should be about perfect for me =) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter L" To: Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 10:34 AM Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up >i think ive decided to replace my rusty exhaust with a stainless set up >from > sunbeam spec, incl the stainless downpipes (i am using stock cast iron > exhaust > manifolds). i just realized in talking with SS that the package includes > the > muffler. question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a > flowmaster > 40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound > of > the muffler sold as part of SS kit? rick said it is "sports car like" but > everyone has their own interpretation. thks. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 20:47:46 2010 From: "Thomas Prager" To: "tigers_United_forum" Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 21:35:50 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I am running 20/50 dino, but now that I have 5,000 miles on the motor I am considering switching to synthetic oil. Is there any reason to stick with conventional oil? tom 9472154 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 21:24:51 2010 From: "Stu Brennan" To: , , , Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 22:57:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up Let me guess, Mark, you were a percussonist? Jack hammer operator? Aircraft carrier flight deck guy? I had glass packs on my Tiger when I got it, and they were #1 on the list for replacement. Just way too loud. Swapped them out for a pair of big block Thunderbird resonators, that were a lot quieter. Finally got back to stock, quieter still. Stu _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 21:40:24 2010 From: William Manning To: "Would U. Believe" Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 20:02:24 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? Shell Rotella 15W40 is what I use for my flat tappet 289. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 21:41:49 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 20:22:01 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? Rotella WAS purported to have higher zinc content. I'm starting to hear that is not the case anymore, but can't confirm. I used that and GM - E.O.S. (engine oil supplement) on a 318 I broke in recently. I also heard rumors that it is also no longer available. All I can say is the cheap flat tappet cam (SSI brand from PAW - I think Chinese) still has lobes. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 22:46:59 2010 From: Sandy Ganz To: Thomas Witt , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 21:21:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I think if the Rotella has the NEW formual or something like that on the oil it is the newer blend. I have been using Rotella synthetic in my diesel as well as in the race car (as well as other diesel oils in the race car) with good results. Anything with new low emissions, etc is bad. Brad Penn, and others make oil loaded with additives that are good. Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: Thomas Witt To: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 8:22:01 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? Rotella WAS purported to have higher zinc content. I'm starting to hear that is not the case anymore, but can't confirm. I used that and GM - E.O.S. (engine oil supplement) on a 318 I broke in recently. I also heard rumors that it is also no longer available. All I can say is the cheap flat tappet cam (SSI brand from PAW - I think Chinese) still has lobes. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 8 22:58:49 2010 From: "awtiger" To: Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 23:43:49 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Garage/shop flooring (not Tiger related) Hey, guys: Sorry to bomb the list with this question but you guys were the only ones I could think of to ask. Does anyone out there in Tigerland have the snap-together flooring (a.k.a. "RaceDeck" or the like) in their garage/shop? I'm considering installing it in my new shop but I've got some concerns. I know that it supposedly holds up well with cars parked on it, but I wonder how well it does when you're doing actual work to a car on it. Has anyone had experience with this? Do jackstands tend to pierce the flooring? How about jacks? Can it be cleaned up easily or does it lose it's luster? I know no one around the Oklahoma City area who has it so I'm flying kind of blind here. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? By the way, I painted the floor in my last shop with epoxy gray and it held up rather well. I could do that again, although the prep for that would be a killer on the new shop. Thanks so much, Andy Walker Edmond, OK B382001600LRXFE B9006857LRX _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 02:30:02 2010 From: Sandy Ganz To: awtiger , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 01:00:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Garage/shop flooring (not Tiger related) Get some samples before you buy it, it's a few bucks. I was looking at it a long while ago and when I got the samples I decided that it was not a good way to go for me. I don't think they are super durable if you have a working garage, and they sound hollow when you walk on them. I think they are ok if you have a 'waxer' type of garage but if you do lots of work I would skip them IMO. The product that I did find really well made was from a company called LokTile I think. It was solid plastic and came in bigger sized squares. Was a bit more $$ as well, but would have been worth it had I put down flooring. I ended up just keeping the cement floor. Once thing I always wondered about was hardwood flooring, seen pricing for it at some of the liquidator places for solid hardwood similar or less priced then the racedeck stuff, not sure how it would hold up but for now it's cement. Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: awtiger To: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 9:43:49 PM Subject: [Tigers] Garage/shop flooring (not Tiger related) Hey, guys: Sorry to bomb the list with this question but you guys were the only ones I could think of to ask. Does anyone out there in Tigerland have the snap-together flooring (a.k.a. "RaceDeck" or the like) in their garage/shop? I'm considering installing it in my new shop but I've got some concerns. I know that it supposedly holds up well with cars parked on it, but I wonder how well it does when you're doing actual work to a car on it. Has anyone had experience with this? Do jackstands tend to pierce the flooring? How about jacks? Can it be cleaned up easily or does it lose it's luster? I know no one around the Oklahoma City area who has it so I'm flying kind of blind here. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? By the way, I painted the floor in my last shop with epoxy gray and it held up rather well. I could do that again, although the prep for that would be a killer on the new shop. Thanks so much, Andy Walker Edmond, OK B382001600LRXFE B9006857LRX _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 05:30:22 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Sandy Ganz , Thomas Witt Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 07:02:39 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? >From old Porsche experience, we found that different grades of Mobil 1 are formulated differently. For example, 0W40 is suitable for the flat six because it has the necessary higher zinc content, while other grades do not and should not be used. I guess the bottom line is to check the zinc content of the particular grade you're planning to use. Probably, you will find this information on the manufacturer's website. Alternatively, check the open Internet. Cheers. On 7/9/10 12:21 AM, "Sandy Ganz" wrote: > I think if the Rotella has the NEW formual or something like that on the oil > it > is the newer blend. I have been using Rotella synthetic in my diesel as well > as > in the race car (as well as other diesel oils in the race car) with good > results. Anything with new low emissions, etc is bad. Brad Penn, and others > make > oil loaded with additives that are good. > > Sandy > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Thomas Witt > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 8:22:01 PM > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? > > Rotella WAS purported to have higher zinc content. I'm starting to hear that > is > not the case anymore, but can't confirm. > > I used that and GM - E.O.S. (engine oil supplement) on a 318 I broke in > recently. I also heard rumors that it is also no longer available. All I can > say > is the cheap flat tappet cam (SSI brand from PAW - I think Chinese) still has > lobes. > > Tom _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 05:46:18 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: stubrennan@comcast.net, mcdangerous@verizon.net, Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 07:23:00 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up Grew up with a Ducati single cylinder motorcycle and since have always gone for the thumping rather than the sewing machine sound. M In a message dated 7/8/2010 10:57:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, stubrennan@comcast.net writes: Let me guess, Mark, you were a percussonist? Jack hammer operator? Aircraft carrier flight deck guy? I had glass packs on my Tiger when I got it, and they were #1 on the list for replacement. Just way too loud. Swapped them out for a pair of big block Thunderbird resonators, that were a lot quieter. Finally got back to stock, quieter still. Stu _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 05:46:31 2010 From: "rande" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 07:29:38 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] flooring Andy, No sooner am I asking Sandy to pipe in on your behalf then he beats me to it. He's the first person I'd think of to use show garage flooring, and he says he has a cement floor, as I do!!! (Mine's about 15 years old, still looks new but not easy to clean up fluids). If you're still intent on floor tile for the garage, Griot's Garage - Seattle area www.griotsgarage.com offers a number of choices, each with size covered, how much weight each allows, and whether it's good for working on or just for show. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 05:57:48 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: mcdangerous@verizon.net, sganz@pacbell.net, atwittsend@verizon.net, Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 07:35:23 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? Interesting! The local Mercedes dealer uses nothing but Mobile 0W-40. The only place I could find that stocked it, believe or not, was Walmart:-) Mark In a message dated 7/9/2010 7:30:58 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, mcdangerous@verizon.net writes: >From old Porsche experience, we found that different grades of Mobil 1 are formulated differently. For example, 0W40 is suitable for the flat six because it has the necessary higher zinc content, while other grades do not and should not be used. I guess the bottom line is to check the zinc content of the particular grade you're planning to use. Probably, you will find this information on the manufacturer's website. Alternatively, check the open Internet. Cheers. On 7/9/10 12:21 AM, "Sandy Ganz" wrote: > I think if the Rotella has the NEW formual or something like that on the oil > it > is the newer blend. I have been using Rotella synthetic in my diesel as well > as > in the race car (as well as other diesel oils in the race car) with good > results. Anything with new low emissions, etc is bad. Brad Penn, and others > make > oil loaded with additives that are good. > > Sandy > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Thomas Witt > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 8:22:01 PM > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? > > Rotella WAS purported to have higher zinc content. I'm starting to hear that > is > not the case anymore, but can't confirm. > > I used that and GM - E.O.S. (engine oil supplement) on a 318 I broke in > recently. I also heard rumors that it is also no longer available. All I can > say > is the cheap flat tappet cam (SSI brand from PAW - I think Chinese) still has > lobes. > > Tom _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 07:25:12 2010 From: FHSLOTH13@aol.com To: rande@thecia.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 09:25:29 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] flooring I just installed a U-Coat it system on my previously painted ten year old floor. I stripped the floor and followed the directions. Stayed off the floor for about 7 days ( directions say 24-48 hours for light traffic). I just finished it about three weeks ago and have not had any bad experiences so far. I dragged a heavy metal shelf set across it and saw no marks from the legs. Cost me $475 for about 700 square feet of floor. Fred Baum In a message dated 7/9/2010 7:47:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rande@thecia.net writes: Andy, No sooner am I asking Sandy to pipe in on your behalf then he beats me to it. He's the first person I'd think of to use show garage flooring, and he says he has a cement floor, as I do!!! (Mine's about 15 years old, still looks new but not easy to clean up fluids). If you're still intent on floor tile for the garage, Griot's Garage - Seattle area www.griotsgarage.com offers a number of choices, each with size covered, how much weight each allows, and whether it's good for working on or just for show. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fhsloth13@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 07:29:50 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: FHSLOTH13@aol.com, rande@thecia.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 09:30:00 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] flooring Fred, What was recommended to remove oil before coating? Mark In a message dated 7/9/2010 9:26:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, FHSLOTH13@aol.com writes: I just installed a U-Coat it system on my previously painted ten year old floor. I stripped the floor and followed the directions. Stayed off the floor for about 7 days ( directions say 24-48 hours for light traffic). I just finished it about three weeks ago and have not had any bad experiences so far. I dragged a heavy metal shelf set across it and saw no marks from the legs. Cost me $475 for about 700 square feet of floor. Fred Baum In a message dated 7/9/2010 7:47:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rande@thecia.net writes: Andy, No sooner am I asking Sandy to pipe in on your behalf then he beats me to it. He's the first person I'd think of to use show garage flooring, and he says he has a cement floor, as I do!!! (Mine's about 15 years old, still looks new but not easy to clean up fluids). If you're still intent on floor tile for the garage, Griot's Garage - Seattle area www.griotsgarage.com offers a number of choices, each with size covered, how much weight each allows, and whether it's good for working on or just for show. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fhsloth13@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 07:37:19 2010 From: Marc James Small To: alpines@autox.team.net,tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 09:30:51 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Two Truckloads of Alpine and Tiger Parts This was advertised in my local paper, the Richmond (VA) TIMES-DISPATCH. Series II through V, some very rare parts. $1500. Maryland: 410-535-6468 That is all I know. Go for it, guys! Marc msmall@aya.yale.edu Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 08:22:28 2010 From: Howard gentry To: "Would U. Believe" , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 07:23:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? Hi, I concur with the short 100 mile break in run and then change oil..It is my experience, as a person who built Auto-Craft VW motors for some years, that Valvoline oil is the stuff to use. We built many VW motors for sprint cars..They developed 240 HP out of 2400cc VW engines..Many tests(don't ask) concluded that Valvoline was the only oil to keep these well developed VW engines in one piece. I am also aware that an air cooled VW is a far cry from a water cooled small block Ford, but, having done SCCA racing with many different water cooled high output engines, I still would recommend Vavoline as my oil of choice..The viscosity of the oil would be detirmined by factors such as bering clearances, load on the berings, pump pressure, RPM range of the application and the cooling capacity of the system. I believe that this applies only to Dino oils as synthetic oils are so different in operating characteristics that they in no way compare to Dino oils. zym The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America. --- On Thu, 7/8/10, Would U. Believe wrote: From: Would U. Believe Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? To: "michael king" Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Thursday, July 8, 2010, 9:41 PM Cool, thanks. On 7/8/10 9:24 PM, "michael king" wrote: > The WSM recommends 10W-30 oil > > On 9 July 2010 10:55, Would U. Believe wrote: >> I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. >> Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want >> to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? >> Thanks! >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/zymmer4@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 08:30:08 2010 From: Chris Thompson To: FHSLOTH13@aol.com Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 10:29:11 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] flooring When I built my last garage, I did 2-part epoxy on the floor, and am still pretty happy with it - very durable, and *can* be cleaned. Am building a new 8-car garage right now and spent a goodly amount of time looking at the options. Looks like the best bet for me is porcelain tile. While the "show car garage" people sell it for $10+ per sq ft, it's also readily available for as little as $2.50 per sq ft at your local tile shop..... Chris B382000331 FHSLOTH13@aol.com wrote: > I just installed a U-Coat it system on my previously painted ten year old > floor. I stripped the floor and followed the directions. Stayed off the > floor for about 7 days ( directions say 24-48 hours for light traffic). I just > finished it about three weeks ago and have not had any bad experiences so > far. I dragged a heavy metal shelf set across it and saw no marks from the > legs. Cost me $475 for about 700 square feet of floor. > > Fred Baum _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 08:37:45 2010 From: Dan Fitzgerald To: Tiger List , "tigers-bounces@autox.team.net" Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 10:38:17 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale All, Here are two websites that have pictures of my car. Please let me know if you are interested or need to see other detailed views. Thanks, Dan http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/b419/jeninaf/Sunbeam%20Tiger/ http://www.britishv8.org/Other/DanFitzgerald.htm _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 08:51:37 2010 From: Jim Sencindiver To: Marc James Small Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 10:46:43 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Two Truckloads of Alpine and Tiger Parts Called the number and it went to voicemail. I believe the voicemail intro said "You have reached the Swansons. Please leave a brief message and we will get back with you." I left them a message and my cell phone #. Let's see if they call me back. Keep on Tigering! Jim Sencindiver On Fri, Jul 9, 2010 at 9:30 AM, Marc James Small wrote: > This was advertised in my local paper, the Richmond (VA) TIMES-DISPATCH. > > Series II through V, some very rare parts. $1500. Maryland: 410-535-6468 > > That is all I know. Go for it, guys! > > Marc > > > msmall@aya.yale.edu > Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 09:26:25 2010 From: David T Johnson To: Thomas Prager , tigers_United_forum Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 08:27:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? This subject was covered months ago. Most modern oils no longer contain the ZDDP necessary to protect your engine. Available at parts store and your GM dealer. Say thank you EPA for saving my catalyst which I dont have. The conclusions were: (1) add a bottle of ZDDP additive to you oil when changing (2) use Moboil 1 which still has some ZDP but it is being phased out (3) use Shell Rotella oil. Usually used in deseil engine and still has ZDDP in it. Rotella is an excellent oil to use. Available at Walmart etc I agree with using 10W30W for breakin and then switchin to 20W50W Dave ________________________________ From: Thomas Prager To: tigers_United_forum Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 10:35:50 PM Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I am running 20/50 dino, but now that I have 5,000 miles on the motor I am considering switching to synthetic oil. Is there any reason to stick with conventional oil? tom 9472154 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 09:40:35 2010 From: David T Johnson To: Thomas Witt , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 08:40:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] A "different" Alger What about the 65 TVR, Triumph TR8 all real cars not modified cars. The MGB V8 came with a Rover 3500 V8. Few were sold At the Chicago Brit Car Fest there is a MGTD with a 289. And then there is my favorite A Morgan 8 with a LT1 motor. DAve ________________________________ From: Thomas Witt To: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 2:39:17 PM Subject: [Tigers] A "different" Alger Could this be the oldest "Alger" or a proto-type Tiger that was "late to the ball?" :-) http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.britishv8.org/MG/DaleSpooner/d alerearaxle.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.britishv8.org/MG/DaleSpooner.htm&usg=__A QyI9COcb3mkCn23KPCJIxdG9Eo=&h=390&w=600&sz=29&hl=en&start=3&itbs=1&tbnid=xN7T cDiGiFCmeM:&tbnh=88&tbnw=135&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dford%2B8%2522%2Brear%2Bend%26 hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US: official%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D18%26tbs%3Disch:1 I'm not too fond of the stock version of this car, but this is pretty cool. Neither am I fan of side pipes, but in this case they really help with the looks. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 10:24:38 2010 From: Peter L To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 09:25:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] 1965 Sunbeam Tiger for Sale - $23500 - SOLD I guess the part of my ad that said "motivated seller" was right. First guy that showed up to look at it loved it, made an offer, and we struck a deal, and he bought it. Thanks for the interest others expressed. She's going to a good home. Peter From: Peter L Subject: 1965 Sunbeam Tiger for Sale - $23500 To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Monday, June 28, 2010, 10:57 AM I tried to email the group first last night re my tiger for sale, but it seems to not have gone through. In that email i gave more color than this public ad, incl the VIN (though the pics have it shown), more color on why selling (have another tiger that will be a "keeper for life" that doug jennings is just finishing up after a 3.5 year bare metal resto and another light blue one the wifey loves), etc. So here is the details, hopefully the link doesnt make this tiger list post get blocked. Email me with any questions. http://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/cto/1814624610.html Thks Peter _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 10:28:23 2010 From: To: Tiger List , "tigers-bounces@autox.team.net" Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:28:52 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale Beautiful car, Dan!!! I really like the black-dash Tigers...my first Tiger was B9470058 and it had the black dash. Little did I know what it meant at the time... Take care and best of luck, Andy Walker Edmond, OK B382001600LRXFE B9006857LRX ---- Dan Fitzgerald wrote: > All, > > Here are two websites that have pictures of my car. Please let me know if > you are interested or need to see other detailed views. > > Thanks, > > Dan > > http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/b419/jeninaf/Sunbeam%20Tiger/ > > http://www.britishv8.org/Other/DanFitzgerald.htm > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger@cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 10:56:11 2010 From: Gyroplanes@aol.com To: mcdangerous@verizon.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:47:45 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I have no interest in Castrol, but in my lifetime I have met several guys that have worked in oil company labs, all fo them said Castrol was better than any oil they tested including their own. None of them worked for Castrol. Just an FYI. Tom Milton Lansing, IL. 1964 Tiger project B382000257 In a message dated 7/8/2010 8:15:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time, mcdangerous@verizon.net writes: I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 10:57:25 2010 From: Gyroplanes@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:52:32 EDT Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions Just wanted to give everyone an update. I moved the replacement 302 engine into my shop and plan to remove the intake within the next few days (the suspense is killing me) I need to find out if I do indeed have a roller cam engine, so I can order a cam and kit. I was considering a Ford racing B303 cam, but I have found the Edelbrock cam (recommended for my manifold and heads) is considerably cheaper than the FMS unit and slightly bigger in lift and duration (I'm still worried about the stock rockers bumping my LAT Tiger aluminum covers though) Tom Milton Lansing, IL. 1964 Tiger project B382000257 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 11:00:57 2010 From: Gyroplanes@aol.com To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, mcdangerous@verizon.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:01:28 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? In the world of aviation, we break in an engine with straight mineral oil for the first few changes (10 & 25 hours) then switch to an ashless dispersant (additive) oil or semi-synthetic. The FAA subscribes to the theory that straight synthetic oil will run off the cylinders and other parts, leaving them open to rust and corrosion. Most aircraft engines, like most Tiger engines, do not see everyday use. Tom Milton Lansing, IL. 1964 Tiger project B382000257 In a message dated 7/8/2010 9:38:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time, rfraser@bluefrog.com writes: Have you already done a break in run on the engine? I would use 10W30 not 20W50 plus a bottle of break in oil that has all the high pressure additives for the break in run unless you have a roller cam which does not need the additives. I would continue to run 10W30 or 10W40 as regular oil. Some of the oils have more of the additive but I'm not sure off hand which ones. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:55 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? Thanks! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2983 - Release Date: 07/08/10 18:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/gyroplanes@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 11:07:59 2010 From: "Dave Munroe" To: , Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 14:03:08 -0300 Subject: Re: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions Tom; Yeah, and you want to be careful that the higher lift of the cam and rockers don't drive the valve spring caps into the valve guides either. Ask me how I know.... Dave ] ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 1:52 PM Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions > Just wanted to give everyone an update. > I moved the replacement 302 engine into my shop and plan to remove the > intake within the next few days (the suspense is killing me) I need to > find out > if I do indeed have a roller cam engine, so I can order a cam and kit. > > I was considering a Ford racing B303 cam, but I have found the Edelbrock > cam (recommended for my manifold and heads) is considerably cheaper than > the > FMS unit and slightly bigger in lift and duration (I'm still worried > about > the stock rockers bumping my LAT Tiger aluminum covers though) > > Tom Milton > Lansing, IL. > 1964 Tiger project > B382000257 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave@munroe.ca _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 11:10:06 2010 From: "Armacost, Don Jr." To: , , Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:06:33 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? We use Valvoline 20W-50 Part #VV851 which is available at just about any auto parts store. You have to ask for it by part number only and it is kept behind the counter because it is not "street legal" due to the ZZDP and other friction modifiers used in the oil. Have had no problems with it and we use it in a number of antique cars varying from 45 to 75 years old. B9473374 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gyroplanes@aol.com Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 12:01 PM To: rfraser@bluefrog.com; mcdangerous@verizon.net; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? In the world of aviation, we break in an engine with straight mineral oil for the first few changes (10 & 25 hours) then switch to an ashless dispersant (additive) oil or semi-synthetic. The FAA subscribes to the theory that straight synthetic oil will run off the cylinders and other parts, leaving them open to rust and corrosion. Most aircraft engines, like most Tiger engines, do not see everyday use. Tom Milton Lansing, IL. 1964 Tiger project B382000257 In a message dated 7/8/2010 9:38:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time, rfraser@bluefrog.com writes: Have you already done a break in run on the engine? I would use 10W30 not 20W50 plus a bottle of break in oil that has all the high pressure additives for the break in run unless you have a roller cam which does not need the additives. I would continue to run 10W30 or 10W40 as regular oil. Some of the oils have more of the additive but I'm not sure off hand which ones. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:55 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? Thanks! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2983 - Release Date: 07/08/10 18:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/gyroplanes@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drarmacost@pmlights.com This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the Recipient. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute, copy or alter this email. Any views or opinions presented in this email are solely those of the author and might not represent those of Peterson Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, Mission Plastics North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) . Warning: Although Peterson Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, Mission Plastics North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) has taken reasonable precautions to ensure no viruses are present in this email, the company cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage arising from the use of this email or attachments. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 11:39:26 2010 From: "Tiger Man" To: Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 11:38:24 -0600 Subject: Re: [Tigers] flooring Chris, I'm a big fan of inexpensive and clever solutions, but I thought most ceramic and porcelain tiles were subject to crack, break or shatter if you dropped something solid on them. I had some tile installed in my bathroom, and they told me it was much more resistant to that kind of breakage, but wouldn't really say how much more resistant. I personally tend to be a bit clumsy out in the shop so I was wondering how big of an issue that is, or is the tile you are getting is designed to take that. Thanks, Steve > When I built my last garage, I did 2-part epoxy on the floor, and am still > pretty happy with it - very durable, and *can* be cleaned. Am building a > new 8-car garage right now and spent a goodly amount of time looking at > the options. Looks like the best bet for me is porcelain tile. While the > "show car garage" people sell it for $10+ per sq ft, it's also readily > available for as little as $2.50 per sq ft at your local tile shop..... _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 12:14:22 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: , Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 14:11:38 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions Tom I have seen some put 2 gaskets under the valve covers to clear valves. I don't know if there is enough room for that on the Tiger. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gyroplanes@aol.com Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 12:53 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions Just wanted to give everyone an update. I moved the replacement 302 engine into my shop and plan to remove the intake within the next few days (the suspense is killing me) I need to find out if I do indeed have a roller cam engine, so I can order a cam and kit. I was considering a Ford racing B303 cam, but I have found the Edelbrock cam (recommended for my manifold and heads) is considerably cheaper than the FMS unit and slightly bigger in lift and duration (I'm still worried about the stock rockers bumping my LAT Tiger aluminum covers though) Tom Milton Lansing, IL. 1964 Tiger project B382000257 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2990 - Release Date: 07/09/10 06:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 12:24:46 2010 From: Bob Josten To: awtiger Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 11:24:17 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Garage/shop flooring (not Tiger related) Andy, if your concrete floor is in generally good condition consider having it polished and then sealed. It's the same technique that was used often years ago on terrazzo floors. After grinding it is best sealed with a product like Retro Plate http://www.retroplatesystem.com/ . The result is a very smooth 'wet' look floor that is non-porous and is similar in appearance to marble but without the cost and no grout lines. All the floors in my house are this finish and some day I will empty out my shop and do the same there. This is how it looks http://www.concretereflections.com/Gallery/Gallery_1.asp . You can also stain the concrete after grinding but before sealing with an acid stain like those made by Scofield. The Home Depot near me spend it's first two years of operation constantly cleaning the fork lift scuff marks off their floors and then finally ended up having them polished and sealed. It's much nicer looking and way easier to maintain. regards Bob J. On Thu, Jul 8, 2010 at 9:43 PM, awtiger wrote: > Hey, guys: > > Sorry to bomb the list with this question but you guys were the only ones I > could think of to ask. > > Does anyone out there in Tigerland have the snap-together flooring (a.k.a. > "RaceDeck" or the like) in their garage/shop? I'm considering installing it > in my new shop but I've got some concerns. I know that it supposedly holds > up well with cars parked on it, but I wonder how well it does when you're > doing actual work to a car on it. Has anyone had experience with this? Do > jackstands tend to pierce the flooring? How about jacks? Can it be cleaned > up easily or does it lose it's luster? I know no one around the Oklahoma > City area who has it so I'm flying kind of blind here. Can anyone shed some > light on this for me? > > By the way, I painted the floor in my last shop with epoxy gray and it held > up rather well. I could do that again, although the prep for that would be > a killer on the new shop. > > Thanks so much, > Andy Walker > Edmond, OK > B382001600LRXFE > B9006857LRX _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bob@rjosten.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 12:40:01 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: mcdangerous@verizon.net, tigers@autox.team.net, Gyroplanes@aol.com Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 11:34:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I do not use Castrol 30 or 40W now as I went to their synthetic oil a couple years back. But I used it in my first two Tigers, which covered from 1972 thru 1984 if memory serves. I always liked the product, for what that is worth. It is easy to see when it needs changing, no matter the mileage. I strongly believe that changing your oil regularly is the life of an engine, so if your cars overheats severely, I would change the oil as I believe the extreme high temps helps to break the oil down. TtT --- On Fri, 7/9/10, Gyroplanes@aol.com wrote: From: Gyroplanes@aol.com Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? To: mcdangerous@verizon.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 11:47 AM I have no interest in Castrol, but in my lifetime I have met several guys that have worked in oil company labs, all fo them said Castrol was better than any oil they tested including their own. None of them worked for Castrol. Just an FYI. Tom Milton Lansing, IL. 1964 Tiger project B382000257 In a message dated 7/8/2010 8:15:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time, mcdangerous@verizon.net writes: I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine. Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want to use synthetic (too slippery). What grade oil are you all using, 20W50? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 13:10:49 2010 From: Joel Martin To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:09:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil There was a exellent article in British Motoring Magazine called "Oil for Classic British Sports Cars" that discuss's the lack of zink in today's oil. I have a copy that I can send to anyone who might like it. Do not know which edition the article was in - you could look at them and probably find it via http://www.britishmotoring.net/ Sure wish we could provide attachments via this post. Joel Martin _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 13:11:27 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Dan Fitzgerald Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 12:10:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale - HOSE CLAMPS Dan, Good looking Tiger. My 1965 Tiger Mk I has the wood dash (B9472289), Wonder when they changed to wood? Tigers, The pics shown on: second one down, are a good illustration of the Original Top radiator hose, and Breather cap hoses: http://www.britishv8.org/Other/DanFitzgerald.htm Note the clamps are dual wire-type, not worm drive bands. See previous post with Norman's commentary quoted. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Dan Fitzgerald wrote: > All, > > Here are two websites that have pictures of my car. Please let me know if > you are interested or need to see other detailed views. > > Thanks, > > Dan > > http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/b419/jeninaf/Sunbeam%20Tiger/ > > http://www.britishv8.org/Other/DanFitzgerald.htm > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 13:22:12 2010 From: Joel Martin To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:18:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil Would you just know it, as soon as first email sent - I find the right one. Here you go. http://www.britishmotoring.net/Archives/2009_Winter.pdf Joel Martin ----- Original Message ---- From: Joel Martin To: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Fri, July 9, 2010 3:09:52 PM Subject: RE: Best Dino Oil There was a exellent article in British Motoring Magazine called "Oil for Classic British Sports Cars" that discuss's the lack of zink in today's oil. I have a copy that I can send to anyone who might like it. Do not know which edition the article was in - you could look at them and probably find it via http://www.britishmotoring.net/ Sure wish we could provide attachments via this post. Joel Martin _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 13:23:41 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Tony Somebody'" , , Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 15:22:45 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? Tony Engine oil and ATF are designed to work best at around 200 degrees F; as the temp rises these products degrade at an exponential rate and need to be changed more often. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Somebody Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 2:35 PM To: mcdangerous@verizon.net; tigers@autox.team.net; Gyroplanes@aol.com Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? I do not use Castrol 30 or 40W now as I went to their synthetic oil a couple years back. But I used it in my first two Tigers, which covered from 1972 thru 1984 if memory serves. I always liked the product, for what that is worth. It is easy to see when it needs changing, no matter the mileage. I strongly believe that changing your oil regularly is the life of an engine, so if your cars overheats severely, I would change the oil as I believe the extreme high temps helps to break the oil down. TtT _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 13:25:32 2010 From: arado7@sbcglobal.net To: Tony Somebody Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:26:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? --- On Fri, 7/9/10, Tony Somebody wrote: From: Tony Somebody Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302? To: mcdangerous@verizon.net, tigers@autox.team.net, Gyroplanes@aol.com Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 6:34 PM I do not use Castrol 30 or 40W now as I went to their synthetic oil a couple years back. But I used it in my first two Tigers, which covered from 1972 thru 1984 if memory serves. I always liked the product, for what that is worth. It is easy to see when it needs changing, no matter the mileage. I strongly believe that changing your oil regularly is the life of an engine, so if your cars overheats severely, I would change the oil as I believe the extreme high temps helps to break the oil down. TtT I have used Mobil1 in my Tiger since I rebuilt the drive train in 1986. I use 20-50 since I don't live in the artic and Tigers run hot. I change oil annually or 12K miles. . The same for my Brit bikes Norton and Triumph. Gary B9472283 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 13:26:13 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: rande@thecia.net Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 12:26:55 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] flooring Thanks for the link, Rande, I have the same concerns as Andy. My floor is concrete, and is used for parking, and some maintenance work. I have used floor jacks, jack stands, "wheelie dealies", etc. with no remaining scars. I, too, have seen some very attractive, and expensive, flooring, and have the same concerns. Epoxy paint is used by some. Griot's seems to have quite a collection, but I haven't tried any. www.griotsgarage.com lot's of choices, but which? Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the various types, or has use-tested any. Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com rande wrote: > Andy, > > No sooner am I asking Sandy to pipe in on your behalf then he beats me to it. > > > He's the first person I'd think of to use show garage flooring, and he says > he has a cement floor, as I do!!! (Mine's about 15 years old, still looks new > but not easy to clean up fluids). > > If you're still intent on floor tile for the garage, Griot's Garage - Seattle > area www.griotsgarage.com offers a number of choices, each with size covered, > how much weight each allows, and whether it's good for working on or just for > show. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 13:37:31 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Gyroplanes@aol.com Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 12:33:03 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions Yes, Tom, The shallow LAT valve covers can do this. I have heard of using two gaskets (maybe bonded to each other in the facing sides, to gain some clearance, as well as removing the standard metal plates. No experience here, but "love will find a way!" Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Gyroplanes@aol.com wrote: > Just wanted to give everyone an update. > I moved the replacement 302 engine into my shop and plan to remove the > intake within the next few days (the suspense is killing me) I need to find out > if I do indeed have a roller cam engine, so I can order a cam and kit. > > I was considering a Ford racing B303 cam, but I have found the Edelbrock > cam (recommended for my manifold and heads) is considerably cheaper than the > FMS unit and slightly bigger in lift and duration (I'm still worried about > the stock rockers bumping my LAT Tiger aluminum covers though) > > Tom Milton > Lansing, IL. > 1964 Tiger project > B382000257 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 13:46:01 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Steve Laifman'" , "'Dan Fitzgerald'" Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 15:46:20 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale - HOSE CLAMPS Steve You are correct about the hose clamps. The original hose clamps on the Tiger engine were a combination of double wire, band, single wire, Ford tower and cotter pin band clamps. The band clamp on the small hose to the header tank is period correct, I believe, and so is a double wire clamp. I have not determined the exact clamp used in this position or if there is a transition date from one to the other. Dan has a band clamp on the heater valve which is exactly the type of clamp I'm trying to determine is still available anywhere. Dan also has the correct cotter pin clamp on the brake booster. If anyone knows the part number and source of the band clamp for the heater valve hoses; please pass it along. I believe Rootes went to the wood dash, the GT Alpine dash, to upgrade the interior package for the Tiger and add more differences between the two models. I would also guess that they got a better price for increasing the quantity of wood dashes produced. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Laifman Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 3:10 PM To: Dan Fitzgerald Cc: Tiger List Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale - HOSE CLAMPS Dan, Good looking Tiger. My 1965 Tiger Mk I has the wood dash (B9472289), Wonder when they changed to wood? Tigers, The pics shown on: second one down, are a good illustration of the Original Top radiator hose, and Breather cap hoses: http://www.britishv8.org/Other/DanFitzgerald.htm Note the clamps are dual wire-type, not worm drive bands. See previous post with Norman's commentary quoted. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 14:07:52 2010 From: Peter L To: Tiger List , "tigers-bounces@autox.team.net" Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:08:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale whats the story on black dashes? was gonna swap mine out for a walnut one tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original, maybe it was? --- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger@cox.net wrote: From: awtiger@cox.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale To: "Tiger List" , "tigers-bounces@autox.team.net" , "Dan Fitzgerald" Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 12:28 PM Beautiful car, Dan!!! I really like the black-dash Tigers...my first Tiger was B9470058 and it had the black dash. Little did I know what it meant at the time... _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 14:10:25 2010 From: FHSLOTH13@aol.com To: laurin212@yahoo.com, tigers@autox.team.net, Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 16:11:00 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale According to Norman, Page 15, about 400 Tigers had black vinyl dashes. Fred baum In a message dated 7/9/2010 4:08:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, laurin212@yahoo.com writes: whats the story on black dashes? was gonna swap mine out for a walnut one tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original, maybe it was? --- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger@cox.net wrote: From: awtiger@cox.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale To: "Tiger List" , "tigers-bounces@autox.team.net" , "Dan Fitzgerald" Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 12:28 PM Beautiful car, Dan!!! I really like the black-dash Tigers...my first Tiger was B9470058 and it had the black dash. Little did I know what it meant at the time... _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fhsloth13@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 14:15:40 2010 From: To: Tiger List , Peter L , Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 16:15:45 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale Peter: As Fred just stated, somewhere around the first 400 Tigers had the black vinyl Alpine dashes. I don't know what number your car is, but if it's a very early Mk1, then the black dash is more than likely correct for it. In other words, don't swap the dashes until you know for sure if you're intent is to stay original. Take care, Andy Walker Edmond, OK B382001600LRXFE B9006857LRX ---- Peter L wrote: > whats the story on black dashes?B was gonna swap mine out for a walnut one tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original, maybe it was? > > --- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger@cox.net wrote: > > > From: awtiger@cox.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale > To: "Tiger List" , "tigers-bounces@autox.team.net" , "Dan Fitzgerald" > Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 12:28 PM > > > Beautiful car, Dan!!!B I really like the black-dash Tigers...my first Tiger was B9470058 and it had the black dash.B Little did I know what it meant at the time... _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 14:23:07 2010 From: Peter L To: Tiger List , Dan Fitzgerald Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:20:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale its B9473454, so unlikely its one of those first 400 unfortunately. hmmm.... From: awtiger@cox.net Peter: As Fred just stated, somewhere around the first 400 Tigers had the black vinyl Alpine dashes. I don't know what number your car is, but if it's a very early Mk1, then the black dash is more than likely correct for it. In other words, don't swap the dashes until you know for sure if you're intent is to stay original. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 14:53:21 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: rfraser@bluefrog.com Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 13:49:35 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] HOSE CLAMPS - Redux Ron, Here is the link to a site that sells British hose clamps, etc. that was posted before: http://www.englishparts.com/products/CLAMP--RADIATOR-HOSE-WIRE-TYPE--1-38-TO-1-916-IN-HOSE/7275/326-430.html The double wire radiator hoses are #326-430 (but specified for Healy, Sprite, Midget, etc.) are probably the same, @ $2.05 each. The water valve clamps are $1.40 each. Lots of other MG, Healey, and Triumph bits and pieces. Believe they are the same as the Tiger clamps , watch sizes! Let us know how your project ends up, and read the post about TBON quote, below: TBON (The Book of Norman) shows the water and oil cap vent hoses with the "wire-type", and heater as the simple plain clamp band. He says (pp153): 1. "All 1/2" hoses were CAD plated English "band clamps.". 2. "All 5/8" hose clamps used CAD plated English "double wire clamps" at all but three locations." 3. "The water pump by-pass hose was clamped with CAD plated Ford screw clamps at both ends" 4. "The heater core return hose was clamped with a CAD plated Ford screw clamped with clamp at the elbow manifold fitting. 5. "Upper and lower radiator hoses were clamped with CAD plated English double wire clamps" Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Ron Fraser wrote: > Steve > You are correct about the hose clamps. The original hose clamps on > the Tiger engine were a combination of double wire, band, single wire, Ford > tower and cotter pin band clamps. > > The band clamp on the small hose to the header tank is period > correct, I believe, and so is a double wire clamp. I have not determined > the exact clamp used in this position or if there is a transition date from > one to the other. Dan has a band clamp on the heater valve which is > exactly the type of clamp I'm trying to determine is still available > anywhere. Dan also has the correct cotter pin clamp on the brake booster. > > If anyone knows the part number and source of the band clamp for the > heater valve hoses; please pass it along. > > I believe Rootes went to the wood dash, the GT Alpine dash, to > upgrade the interior package for the Tiger and add more differences between > the two models. I would also guess that they got a better price for > increasing the quantity of wood dashes produced. > > Ron Fraser _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 14:53:56 2010 From: To: Tiger List , Peter L , Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 16:53:13 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale You're right...go on with the wood dash plan. The black dash should not be in a car that late in production. Best of luck, Andy Walker Edmond, OK B382001600LRXFE B9006857LRX ---- Peter L wrote: > its B9473454, so unlikely its one of those first 400 unfortunately.B hmmm.... > B > B > > From: awtiger@cox.net > > Peter: > > As Fred just stated, somewhere around the first 400 Tigers had the black vinyl Alpine dashes.B I don't know what number your car is, but if it's a very early Mk1, then the black dash is more than likely correct for it.B In other words, don't swap the dashes until you know for sure if you're intent is to stay original. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 16:24:20 2010 From: "A. C. Tynes" To: , Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 17:18:55 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions Tom, Even if it is not an original roller lifter block, it can be converted fairly inexpensively. The holddown kits to use original style lifters are about $50 new and are available used. I may even have enough spares to make up a set for you. The lifters are more expensive than non-rollers, but considering the extra risk with flat tappet break-ins we've been talking about and the inherent advantages of roller lifters, it seems that rollers are the only way to go. There are also linked roller lifters that can be used in place of the original Ford type lifters without needing the holddowns. Modeling clay or Play-Do in a zip lock bag laid on your rocker arms will let you check the clearance with your valve covers, but, of course, the engine has to be put together first. As a point of reference, I seem to have plenty of clearance with an E303 cam and Ford B351 roller rockers under a cast aluminum "Power by Ford" valve cover with no mods to the baffles. The engine hasn't been started yet. Good luck with your engine. A. C. Tynes New Orleans > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fraser > Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 1:12 PM > To: Gyroplanes@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions > > Tom > I have seen some put 2 gaskets under the valve covers > to clear valves. I don't know if there is enough room for > that on the Tiger. > > Ron Fraser > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net > [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Gyroplanes@aol.com > Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 12:53 PM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions > > > Just wanted to give everyone an update. > I moved the replacement 302 engine into my shop and plan to > remove the intake within the next few days (the suspense is > killing me) I need to find out if I do indeed have a roller > cam engine, so I can order a cam and kit. > > I was considering a Ford racing B303 cam, but I have found > the Edelbrock cam (recommended for my manifold and heads) is > considerably cheaper than the > > FMS unit and slightly bigger in lift and duration (I'm still > worried about the stock rockers bumping my LAT Tiger > aluminum covers though) > > Tom Milton > Lansing, IL. > 1964 Tiger project > B382000257 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2990 - Release > Date: 07/09/10 06:36:00 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 16:58:37 2010 From: "John Stithem" To: Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 16:00:00 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 311 The black dashes were used in the early Tiger's. The exact number is in question. I have had 2 early Tigers--one vin# 254 which I still own and it has an original black dash, another Tiger that was stolen in 1980 vin# 263 and it also had an original black dash. TBON states the black dash stopped somewhere around vin# 256---which leads to the statement "The exact number is in question". But we don't really know what the Tiger builders did at Rootes. They may have sent out a number of Tigers with wood dashes, discovered they had one black dash left and put it on a Tiger out of order. We have seen stranger things than that show up on these Tigers when trying to figure out when and why they did something to the cars. If your vin# is before 263--it could have an original black dash and if you want to keep it original----don't give up the dash. If your vin# is larger than 264---it is probably a transplanted dash from an Alpine. John Message: 3 Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:08:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Peter L Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale To: Tiger List , "tigers-bounces@autox.team.net" , Dan Fitzgerald , awtiger@cox.net Message-ID: <870637.51036.qm@web53606.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" whats the story on black dashes? was gonna swap mine out for a walnut one tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original, maybe it was? --- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger@cox.net wrote: 271.1.1/2989 - Release Date: 07/08/10 23:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 17:12:18 2010 From: "rande" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 19:13:02 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] What's with the black dash? I'll trust Norms numbers for the end of black dash cars. The reason for them is that early on, Rootes wanted to offer two models of the Tiger, the same as Alpine. The sports tourer specs included rubber flooring, black instrument panel, black steering wheel, and provisions for a soft top. Hard top optional. If you went for the GT, you got wood wheel, wood instrument panel, full carpeting, dome light switches in the door hinges, altered and upholstered area behind the front seats, and no soft top, but standard hard top. As wiser minds prevailed(let's use Norm's cut off point) Rootes decided to make just one model, let's call it a sports tourer with full carpet, wood instrument panel and steering wheel ,keep the soft top, omit the special GT cockpit, and keep the hard top as an option. I've seen two Tiger GT's, one photographed with its hard top, and one displayed at the '95 Grants Pass missing the hard top but with the unique upholstered rear cockpit. I think Brett Simpson's car ( I think it's Pressed Steel body #1) that was at Big Sky is a sports tourer. I hope someone from the Northwest will correct me on Brett's car. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 17:24:06 2010 From: Rick Graf To: John Stithem Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 19:19:22 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 311 I think they go later than that. I'm the third owner of #304, which is largely unmolested, and it's got a black dash. John Stithem wrote: >The black dashes were used in the early Tiger's. The exact number is in >question. I have had 2 early Tigers--one vin# 254 which I still own and it >has an original black dash, another Tiger that was stolen in 1980 vin# 263 >and it also had an original black dash. TBON states the black dash stopped >somewhere around vin# 256---which leads to the statement "The exact number >is in question". >But we don't really know what the Tiger builders did at Rootes. They may >have sent out a number of Tigers with wood dashes, discovered they had one >black dash left and put it on a Tiger out of order. We have seen stranger >things than that show up on these Tigers when trying to figure out when and >why they did something to the cars. > >If your vin# is before 263--it could have an original black dash and if you >want to keep it original----don't give up the dash. If your vin# is larger >than 264---it is probably a transplanted dash from an Alpine. > >John > > > >Message: 3 >Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:08:09 -0700 (PDT) >From: Peter L >Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale >To: Tiger List , > "tigers-bounces@autox.team.net" , Dan > Fitzgerald , awtiger@cox.net >Message-ID: <870637.51036.qm@web53606.mail.re2.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >whats the story on black dashes? was gonna swap mine out for a walnut one >tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original, maybe >it >was? > >--- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger@cox.net wrote: > > >271.1.1/2989 - Release Date: 07/08/10 23:36:00 >_______________________________________________ >Tigers@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rgraf@bellatlantic.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 9 18:28:58 2010 From: Steve Ralsten To: tigers@autox.team.net, John Stithem Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 17:29:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 311 Maybe he'll chime in here but when I was shopping for a Tiger Norm told me the "first 400" had black dash and I think he said contrasting stripe upholstry. Not sure about the upholstry but certain about the 400 remark because one car I was looking at had black dash. Steve --- On Fri, 7/9/10, John Stithem wrote: From: John Stithem Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 311 To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 4:00 PM The black dashes were used in the early Tiger's. The exact number is in question. I have had 2 early Tigers--one vin# 254 which I still own and it has an original black dash, another Tiger that was stolen in 1980 vin# 263 and it also had an original black dash. TBON states the black dash stopped somewhere around vin# 256---which leads to the statement "The exact number is in question". But we don't really know what the Tiger builders did at Rootes. They may have sent out a number of Tigers with wood dashes, discovered they had one black dash left and put it on a Tiger out of order. We have seen stranger things than that show up on these Tigers when trying to figure out when and why they did something to the cars. If your vin# is before 263--it could have an original black dash and if you want to keep it original----don't give up the dash. If your vin# is larger than 264---it is probably a transplanted dash from an Alpine. John Message: 3 Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:08:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Peter L Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale To: Tiger List , "tigers-bounces@autox.team.net" , Dan Fitzgerald , awtiger@cox.net Message-ID: <870637.51036.qm@web53606.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" whats the story on black dashes? was gonna swap mine out for a walnut one tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original, maybe it was? --- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger@cox.net wrote: 271.1.1/2989 - Release Date: 07/08/10 23:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/s_ralsten@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 10 05:57:08 2010 From: "rande" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 07:57:16 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Oil brands 'I have no interest in Castrol, but in my lifetime I have met several guys that have worked in oil company labs, all fo them said Castrol was better than any oil they tested including their own. None of them worked for Castrol. Just an FYI. Tom Milton' I, too, have no dog in the oil brand fight, but my first summer job in 1967 was as gofer for a Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Jaguar (and occasional new Ferrari, Ford GT, and 427 Cobra special order)dealer, and the shop used Castrol exclusively. That how I got into the habit of using it. My Tiger is engineless at this point, but my '87 BMW 325iS uses BMW 15-40(made by Castrol), my '00 325CI coupe specifies BMW brand or Castrol Syntec(I use the Syntec at home). Volkswagen specifies Mobil 1 for my '07 Golf/Rabbit, and that is the one exception I make to using Castrol. Admittedly, it has more to do with being a long term habit for me than research. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 10 06:23:48 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: rande@thecia.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 08:19:47 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil brands I think Volkswagon and Mercedes specifying Mobile 1 has something do with squeaking out an extra .5 miles per gallon on mileage tests and being able to offer extended times between oil changes. M In a message dated 7/10/2010 7:57:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rande@thecia.net writes: 'I have no interest in Castrol, but in my lifetime I have met several guys that have worked in oil company labs, all fo them said Castrol was better than any oil they tested including their own. None of them worked for Castrol. Just an FYI. Tom Milton' I, too, have no dog in the oil brand fight, but my first summer job in 1967 was as gofer for a Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Jaguar (and occasional new Ferrari, Ford GT, and 427 Cobra special order)dealer, and the shop used Castrol exclusively. That how I got into the habit of using it. My Tiger is engineless at this point, but my '87 BMW 325iS uses BMW 15-40(made by Castrol), my '00 325CI coupe specifies BMW brand or Castrol Syntec(I use the Syntec at home). Volkswagen specifies Mobil 1 for my '07 Golf/Rabbit, and that is the one exception I make to using Castrol. Admittedly, it has more to do with being a long term habit for me than research. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 10 09:52:52 2010 From: spmdr@juno.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 08:50:21 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Castrol oil I used Castrol GTX 20w50 for decades until my daily ride got to the point of using more oil than I could find on sale. So ( in the early '90s, I think ) I picked a cheap oil I could find at any Wal-mart, Their SuperTech 20w50. Low and behold, the oil consumption went DOWN, SIGNIFICANTLY! I later heard that this house brand was really Quaker State. Not long ago I heard the SuperTech oils have been switched from QS to another source. I have not noticed any effects of this rumored change. Still using the Waly stuff, no problems... BTW, daily ride has 682,000+ miles, and counting... ...Not much original on that jewel, anymore! My $.02 DW ____________________________________________________________ Free Credit Score A bad credit score is below 598. Click here to see yours for $0. Checking won't affect your score. By Experian® http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c3896f1eed3440f04m07vuc _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 10 19:31:09 2010 From: Tod Brown To: tigers@autox.team.net, "rande" Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 21:32:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil Brands My '07 VW GTI specifies Castrol Syntec Tod B382002384LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 10 21:12:18 2010 From: Chris Thompson To: Tiger Man Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 23:11:11 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] flooring I wouldn't say that porcelain is either clever or inexpensive, Steve, but it *is* very different from standard ceramic. It's main difference is in being *very* resistant to impact damage. Still, I wouldn't use it in a heavily working garage. But the question that started this thread was whether to use to interlocking rubber-like floor tiles, which I wouldn't use in any kind of working garage, either. Or probably even in a show garage, which is what it is intended for. Porcelain is a good (I think) compromise between the two. My garage will be house a bunch of cars that just need maintenance, not restoration, and there's a big difference there in the garage environment...... Tiger Man wrote: > Chris, > > I'm a big fan of inexpensive and clever solutions, but I thought most > ceramic and porcelain tiles were subject to crack, break or shatter if > you dropped something solid on them. I had some tile installed in my > bathroom, and they told me it was much more resistant to that kind of > breakage, but wouldn't really say how much more resistant. I > personally tend to be a bit clumsy out in the shop so I was wondering > how big of an issue that is, or is the tile you are getting is > designed to take that. > > Thanks, > Steve _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 10 21:24:10 2010 From: Chris Thompson To: Steve Laifman Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 23:23:22 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] flooring I used the 2-part epoxy from Sherwin-Williams on the floor of my current garage, and have been very happy with it over the past 10 years or so. If I was so motivated, I could probably scrub it on down to looking like new. If I was so motivated ;-) Steve Laifman wrote: > > Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the various types, or has use-tested any. > > > Steve Laifman > > Editor > > http://TigersUnited.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 06:11:17 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" To: "=?utf-8?B?Q2hyaXMgVGhvbXBzb24=?=" Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 07:11:51 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?flooring?= I used the rustoleum two part epoxy for my floor. The main thing about a painted floor is prep. Otherwise, the paint will pop loose no matter the brand. Be sure to completely clean and seal the floor before etching and painting. Then enjoy. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Chris Thompson" Date: Sat, Jul 10, 2010 22:11 Subject: [Tigers] flooring To: "Tiger Man" Cc: I wouldn't say that porcelain is either clever or inexpensive, Steve, but it *is* very different from standard ceramic. It's main difference is in being *very* resistant to impact damage. Still, I wouldn't use it in a heavily working garage. But the question that started this thread was whether to use to interlocking rubber-like floor tiles, which I wouldn't use in any kind of working garage, either. Or probably even in a show garage, which is what it is intended for. Porcelain is a good (I think) compromise between the two. My garage will be house a bunch of cars that just need maintenance, not restoration, and there's a big difference there in the garage environment...... Tiger Man wrote: > Chris, > > I'm a big fan of inexpensive and clever solutions, but I thought most > ceramic and porcelain tiles were subject to crack, break or shatter if > you dropped something solid on them. I had some tile installed in my > bathroom, and they told me it was much more resistant to that kind of > breakage, but wouldn't really say how much more resistant. I > personally tend to be a bit clumsy out in the shop so I was wondering > how big of an issue that is, or is the tile you are getting is > designed to take that. > > Thanks, > Steve _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01@comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 16:01:47 2010 From: "Mike Michels" To: , Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 15:02:19 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required Another option is the lower radiator hose spring for Mustangs sold by National Parts Depot. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carmods@aol.com Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 8:51 AM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required This is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago. A spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly overheats as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably caused by the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes negative. For some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in lower hoses, probably some low cost un-American supplier. I found that a "Rainbird/Toro" impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it tight. You can buy a sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just to find a stainless spring. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mmichels@socal.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 17:30:33 2010 From: Brian Glenn To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:31:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping Friends, I bought a Mk1 last year. Doug Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI V and I drove it home to San Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both. I'm looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA and was hoping for some references and advice. Thanks, Brian Glenn B9472615 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 18:01:54 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: ora_archy@yahoo.com, Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 20:02:08 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Shipping I had one shipped from Calif. to Vermont. It was attached at the engine/frame mounting holes to a pretty cheap 2 piece engine stand. Each piece of the stand was bolted to a pallet and the whole thing wrapped in plastic. Shipped common carrier freight and arrived in perfect condition. (no accessories attached except intake). Mark In a message dated 7/11/2010 7:31:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ora_archy@yahoo.com writes: Friends, I bought a Mk1 last year. Doug Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI V and I drove it home to San Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both. I'm looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA and was hoping for some references and advice. Thanks, Brian Glenn B9472615 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 18:02:04 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: ora_archy@yahoo.com, Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 20:02:27 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Shipping I had one shipped from Calif. to Vermont. It was attached at the engine/frame mounting holes to a pretty cheap 2 piece engine stand. Each piece of the stand was bolted to a pallet and the whole thing wrapped in plastic. Shipped common carrier freight and arrived in perfect condition. (no accessories attached except intake). Mark In a message dated 7/11/2010 7:31:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ora_archy@yahoo.com writes: Friends, I bought a Mk1 last year. Doug Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI V and I drove it home to San Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both. I'm looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA and was hoping for some references and advice. Thanks, Brian Glenn B9472615 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 18:16:18 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 20:16:49 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! Hello all. I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember. Unfortunately, I've run into a problem. I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough to install the fourth bolt. Ah, were it so easy! As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt. Then I tried to install either of the driver side bolts. No way. The holes do not match up. I tried everything for hours. I set the car down, and even bounced on it. No luck. Half of the hole is blocked by the frame. So, to stabilize it for now, installed the rear bolt on the passenger side. Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static display in my garage, not a drivable car. I am trying to figure out what to do. The idea that I keep returning to is to find some way to spread the frame rails the 1/4 to 1/2 inch necessary to line up the holes. Does anyone know how to do that? I was considering putting some kind of tall jack in between the rails near where the radiator will go. In my mind's eye, I imagine there is some sort of tool out there that would work; some sort of thing that can be screwed or ratcheted between the rails to spread them. Does anyone know what I should do and where I can get the needed tool, if any is actually needed? Thanks in advance for your invaluable advice. M On 7/10/10 11:23 PM, "Chris Thompson" wrote: > I used the 2-part epoxy from Sherwin-Williams on the floor of my current > garage, and have been very happy with it over the past 10 years or so. > If I was so motivated, I could probably scrub it on down to looking like > new. If I was so motivated ;-) > > Steve Laifman wrote: >> >> Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the various >> types, or has use-tested any. >> >> >> Steve Laifman >> >> Editor >> >> http://TigersUnited.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 18:47:04 2010 From: "Buck Trippel" To: "Brian Glenn" , Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 17:47:11 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Shipping Hi Brian, About two years ago I shipped a complete Ford NASCAR race motor from Charlotte to Los Angeles via Forward Air "terminal to terminal" The complete motor was inside a purpose built plastic engine shipping crate. This was strapped to a pallet. The accessories (including headers) were boxed and placed on the pallet and the whole batch was strapped and shrink wrapped. It made it out here in just a couple days and the price was about $500. One weird thing was that they require payment at the shipping end. They would not allow me to pay for it in Los Angeles. At the Forward Air Terminal, a forklift driver gently placed it in the back of my pick-up. The whole operation was very sweet. I wouldn't expect yours to cost as much since the distance is probably a good deal shorter and diesel was very high back then. I also looked at U-Ship where I might have been able to money but used Forward Air because they run off a schedule and we only had a couple days to ship the engine off to a race. good luck. Buck Trippel ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Glenn" To: Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 4:31 PM Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping > Friends, > > I bought a Mk1 last year. Doug Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI V > and > I drove it home to San Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both. > > I'm looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA > and > was hoping for some references and advice. > > Thanks, > Brian Glenn > B9472615 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bucktrippel@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 18:57:48 2010 From: atwittsend@verizon.net To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 19:54:14 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed It has been some time, but I recall the same issues. My recollection was that I elongated the holes in the crossmember (equally) to get it to bolt in. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 19:06:18 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: atwittsend@verizon.net, Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:06:46 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Most past replies had been to put a block of wood and a jack under the oil pan and lift the engine slightly. M In a message dated 7/11/2010 8:58:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, atwittsend@verizon.net writes: It has been some time, but I recall the same issues. My recollection was that I elongated the holes in the crossmember (equally) to get it to bolt in. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 19:29:25 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: , , Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:29:55 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed I tried lifting the car from under the crossmember, hoping the weight of the engine would cause the frame rails to spread apart a bit, but I did not try to lift from under the oil pan. Because the crossmember is not at all bolted on the driver's side, wouldn't the effect be just to separate the body from the crossmember? Is there any way to spread the frame rails with some sort of scissor jack or something to push them outward from the inside surfaces? My scissor jack from my Jeep is way to short... Any ideas? Thanks! M On 7/11/10 9:06 PM, "CoolVT@aol.com" wrote: > Most past replies had been to put a block of wood and a jack under the oil > pan and lift the engine slightly. > M > > > In a message dated 7/11/2010 8:58:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > atwittsend@verizon.net writes: > > It has been some time, but I recall the same issues. My recollection was > that I elongated the holes in the crossmember (equally) to get it to bolt > in. > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 22:06:38 2010 From: "Kirk Smith" To: "'Would U. Believe'" , Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:05:11 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Maybe something like this would work. I have it installed in the trunk of my Tiger to cut down on cowl shake. Don't ask me where I got it- my Dad gave it to me. Someone that specializes in truck accessories would probably have one. Screw it one way to expand the bar, screw it the other way to make it smaller. There is some adjustability on the ends. You'd just have to find one that was in the ballpark for the frame rails. http://tinypic.com/r/2aenxoj/3 Kirk -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 5:17 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! Hello all. I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember. Unfortunately, I've run into a problem. I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough to install the fourth bolt. Ah, were it so easy! As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt. Then I tried to install either of the driver side bolts. No way. The holes do not match up. I tried everything for hours. I set the car down, and even bounced on it. No luck. Half of the hole is blocked by the frame. So, to stabilize it for now, installed the rear bolt on the passenger side. Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static display in my garage, not a drivable car. I am trying to figure out what to do. The idea that I keep returning to is to find some way to spread the frame rails the 1/4 to 1/2 inch necessary to line up the holes. Does anyone know how to do that? I was considering putting some kind of tall jack in between the rails near where the radiator will go. In my mind's eye, I imagine there is some sort of tool out there that would work; some sort of thing that can be screwed or ratcheted between the rails to spread them. Does anyone know what I should do and where I can get the needed tool, if any is actually needed? Thanks in advance for your invaluable advice. M On 7/10/10 11:23 PM, "Chris Thompson" wrote: > I used the 2-part epoxy from Sherwin-Williams on the floor of my current > garage, and have been very happy with it over the past 10 years or so. > If I was so motivated, I could probably scrub it on down to looking like > new. If I was so motivated ;-) > > Steve Laifman wrote: >> >> Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the various >> types, or has use-tested any. >> >> >> Steve Laifman >> >> Editor >> >> http://TigersUnited.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/twotigers@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 22:35:30 2010 From: Derek Ross To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:25:38 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Engine shipping Met the principles of this company at the Pri show a few years ago - seemed like they "get it" ... http://racedrive.com/dir/links/performance_plus-10736.html Hope that might help ... Derek _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 22:35:43 2010 From: To: "Would U. Believe" , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:34:40 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed I used a hydraulic "jaws of life" kit that my good friend bought from Harbor Freight. A bottle jack and a 4x4 cut to the correct length might work as well. ---- "Would U. Believe" wrote: > Hello all. I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this > weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember. Unfortunately, I've > run into a problem. I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the > car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough > to install the fourth bolt. Ah, were it so easy! > > As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt. Then I > tried to install either of the driver side bolts. No way. The holes do not > match up. I tried everything for hours. I set the car down, and even > bounced on it. No luck. Half of the hole is blocked by the frame. So, to > stabilize it for now, installed the rear bolt on the passenger side. > Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static > display in my garage, not a drivable car. > > I am trying to figure out what to do. The idea that I keep returning to is > to find some way to spread the frame rails the 1/4 to 1/2 inch necessary to > line up the holes. Does anyone know how to do that? I was considering > putting some kind of tall jack in between the rails near where the radiator > will go. In my mind's eye, I imagine there is some sort of tool out there > that would work; some sort of thing that can be screwed or ratcheted between > the rails to spread them. Does anyone know what I should do and where I can > get the needed tool, if any is actually needed? > > Thanks in advance for your invaluable advice. M > > > On 7/10/10 11:23 PM, "Chris Thompson" wrote: > > > I used the 2-part epoxy from Sherwin-Williams on the floor of my current > > garage, and have been very happy with it over the past 10 years or so. > > If I was so motivated, I could probably scrub it on down to looking like > > new. If I was so motivated ;-) > > > > Steve Laifman wrote: > >> > >> Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the various > >> types, or has use-tested any. > >> > >> > >> Steve Laifman > >> > >> Editor > >> > >> http://TigersUnited.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Tigers@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner@cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 22:36:31 2010 From: To: Brian Glenn , Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:37:22 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Shipping I recently bought an engine on line from www.automotix.com. It was shipped to me via Estes trucking. It could have been delivered to my home or office, but it worked out better to have it delivered to their terminal. They placed it in the back of a pickup truck with a forklift. The engine was strapped to a wooden pallet and shrink wrapped. It arrived in fine condition. ---- Brian Glenn wrote: > Friends, > > I bought a Mk1 last year. Doug Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI V and > I drove it home to San Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both. > > I'm looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA and > was hoping for some references and advice. > > Thanks, > Brian Glenn > B9472615 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner@cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 23:06:01 2010 From: allfudge1635@gmail.com To: "Would U. Believe" ,Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 04:55:43 +0000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease! I can think of a couple of options. The cheapest is to get some right and left hand thread all thread rod with a few compatible nuts, and a length of 3/4 inch black iron pipe (or two). Weld one right hand and one left hand nut into the ends of the pipe(s), insert appropriate lengths of all thread into the pipe and use this as a "spreader". Rotating the pipe one way forces the all thread out, and the other way retract. I made my door bars like this for use on the rotisserie. You might want to add some sort of pad to the end of each rod at the point of contact with the frame rails. The other option I can think of is a hydraulic ram, which costs considerably more. Sent on the Sprint. Now Network from my BlackBerry. -----Original Message----- From: "Would U. Believe" Sender: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:29:55 To: ; ; Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! I tried lifting the car from under the crossmember, hoping the weight of the engine would cause the frame rails to spread apart a bit, but I did not try to lift from under the oil pan. Because the crossmember is not at all bolted on the driver's side, wouldn't the effect be just to separate the body from the crossmember? Is there any way to spread the frame rails with some sort of scissor jack or something to push them outward from the inside surfaces? My scissor jack from my Jeep is way to short... Any ideas? Thanks! M On 7/11/10 9:06 PM, "CoolVT@aol.com" wrote: > Most past replies had been to put a block of wood and a jack under the oil > pan and lift the engine slightly. > M > > > In a message dated 7/11/2010 8:58:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > atwittsend@verizon.net writes: > > It has been some time, but I recall the same issues. My recollection was > that I elongated the holes in the crossmember (equally) to get it to bolt > in. > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allfudge1635@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 23:36:40 2010 From: Gyroplanes@aol.com To: Tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 01:33:35 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Shipping I ship parts and large boxes all over the world. I use U-ship (it's a lot like ebay, companied bid on you freight) I also found a company out of PA that I use an awful lot lately, LDM International. They are real good for long distances. They broker the freight out to UPS & Fedex and other brand name carriers. SEKO Intl has also been real good for domestic & intl shipping. Tom In a message dated 7/11/2010 11:37:37 P.M. Central Daylight Time, e.coiner@cox.net writes: I recently bought an engine on line from www.automotix.com. It was shipped to me via Estes trucking. It could have been delivered to my home or office, but it worked out better to have it delivered to their terminal. They placed it in the back of a pickup truck with a forklift. The engine was strapped to a wooden pallet and shrink wrapped. It arrived in fine condition. ---- Brian Glenn wrote: > Friends, > > I bought a Mk1 last year. Doug Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI V and > I drove it home to San Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both. > > I'm looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA and > was hoping for some references and advice. > > Thanks, > Brian Glenn > B9472615 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner@cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/gyroplanes@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 11 23:51:10 2010 From: Gyroplanes@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 01:40:16 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Newest update on my resto Tiger project I finally got my 302 apart, it is a roller cam model, very clean inside. I got a bit of a start though. When I peeled back the garbage bag I've had around it for the last 20 yrs, it had a 2bbl intake..... I momentarily gasped, but remembered I took the intake and carb off for my Ranchero when I ordered the Performer & Holley. I must have set the 260 intake on it to keep the mice out. I'll probably plastigauge the rods & main for piece of mind. Everything looks clean and very low miles. I noticed it has an aluminum oil pump body, is this an aftermarket? I thought I remember my many Fords all having cast iron pumps? Thanks in advance, Making progress Tom Milton Lansing, IL. 1964 Tiger project B382000257 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 00:20:53 2010 From: Tony Somebody To: "Would U. Believe" , tigers@autox.team.net, Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 23:08:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Good idea IMO. TtT --- On Sun, 7/11/10, e.coiner@cox.net wrote: From: e.coiner@cox.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! To: "Would U. Believe" , tigers@autox.team.net Date: Sunday, July 11, 2010, 11:34 PM I used a hydraulic "jaws of life" kit that my good friend bought from Harbor Freight. A bottle jack and a 4x4 cut to the correct length might work as well. ---- "Would U. Believe" wrote: > Hello all. I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this > weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember. Unfortunately, I've > run into a problem. I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the > car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough > to install the fourth bolt. Ah, were it so easy! > > As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt. Then I > tried to install either of the driver side bolts. No way. The holes do not > match up. I tried everything for hours. I set the car down, and even > bounced on it. No luck. Half of the hole is blocked by the frame. So, to > stabilize it for now, installed the rear bolt on the passenger side. > Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static > display in my garage, not a drivable car. > > I am trying to figure out what to do. The idea that I keep returning to is > to find some way to spread the frame rails the 1/4 to 1/2 inch necessary to > line up the holes. Does anyone know how to do that? I was considering > putting some kind of tall jack in between the rails near where the radiator > will go. In my mind's eye, I imagine there is some sort of tool out there > that would work; some sort of thing that can be screwed or ratcheted between > the rails to spread them. Does anyone know what I should do and where I can > get the needed tool, if any is actually needed? > > Thanks in advance for your invaluable advice. M > > > On 7/10/10 11:23 PM, "Chris Thompson" wrote: > > > I used the 2-part epoxy from Sherwin-Williams on the floor of my current > > garage, and have been very happy with it over the past 10 years or so. > > If I was so motivated, I could probably scrub it on down to looking like > > new. If I was so motivated ;-) > > > > Steve Laifman wrote: > >> > >> Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the various > >> types, or has use-tested any. > >> > >> > >> Steve Laifman > >> > >> Editor > >> > >> http://TigersUnited.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Tigers@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner@cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 06:37:20 2010 From: Carmods@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 08:31:38 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Oil For many years, there has been no relationship between Quaker State motor oil and Pennsylvania crude. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 07:41:12 2010 From: Allan Ballard To: Carmods@aol.com Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 09:22:03 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil Is there any problem using Rotella T oil? On Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM, Carmods@aol.com wrote: > For many years, there has been no relationship between Quaker State motor > oil and Pennsylvania crude. > > John Logan > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 08:38:15 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Allan Ballard'" , Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 10:27:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil Allan You have to investigate any oil these days. All oils are reducing the amount of additives to comply with emissions regulations even for diesel engines. The labels on the bottles tell approximately the level of additives but you need to know the label markings. If your breaking in a newly rebuilt engine I say always add a bottle of additives to make sure you don't wipe a cam lobe and have to start over. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan Ballard Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 9:22 AM To: Carmods@aol.com Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil Is there any problem using Rotella T oil? On Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM, Carmods@aol.com wrote: > For many years, there has been no relationship between Quaker State > motor oil and Pennsylvania crude. > > John Logan > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2991 - Release Date: 07/12/10 06:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 09:27:42 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, allanballard@att.net, Carmods@aol.com Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 11:03:03 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil Are we talking mainly about older, rebuilt engines? Many of the modern cars have no special break in oil or instructions and the engine is under warranty for 100,000 miles. Are the new engines that much better? Mark In a message dated 7/12/2010 10:39:04 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rfraser@bluefrog.com writes: Allan You have to investigate any oil these days. All oils are reducing the amount of additives to comply with emissions regulations even for diesel engines. The labels on the bottles tell approximately the level of additives but you need to know the label markings. If your breaking in a newly rebuilt engine I say always add a bottle of additives to make sure you don't wipe a cam lobe and have to start over. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan Ballard Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 9:22 AM To: Carmods@aol.com Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil Is there any problem using Rotella T oil? On Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM, Carmods@aol.com wrote: > For many years, there has been no relationship between Quaker State > motor oil and Pennsylvania crude. > > John Logan > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2991 - Release Date: 07/12/10 06:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 10:53:52 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" To: CoolVT@aol.com,rfraser@bluefrog.com,allanballard@att.net,Carmods@aol.com Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 11:44:32 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Oil?= More tightly controlled clearances. And advanced engineering. Things haven't stood still since 66! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: CoolVT@aol.com Date: Mon, Jul 12, 2010 10:03 Subject: [Tigers] Oil To: , , Cc: Are we talking mainly about older, rebuilt engines? Many of the modern cars have no special break in oil or instructions and the engine is under warranty for 100,000 miles. Are the new engines that much better? Mark In a message dated 7/12/2010 10:39:04 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rfraser@bluefrog.com writes: Allan You have to investigate any oil these days. All oils are reducing the amount of additives to comply with emissions regulations even for diesel engines. The labels on the bottles tell approximately the level of additives but you need to know the label markings. If your breaking in a newly rebuilt engine I say always add a bottle of additives to make sure you don't wipe a cam lobe and have to start over. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan Ballard Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 9:22 AM To: Carmods@aol.com Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil Is there any problem using Rotella T oil? On Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM, Carmods@aol.com wrote: > For many years, there has been no relationship between Quaker State > motor oil and Pennsylvania crude. > > John Logan > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2991 - Release Date: 07/12/10 06:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 12:48:25 2010 From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" To: "=?utf-8?B?Um9iIEJlcm5hcmRpbm8=?=" Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 13:28:47 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Oil?= How so? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Rob Bernardino" Date: Mon, Jul 12, 2010 11:58 Subject: [Tigers] Oil To: "spook01@comcast.net" Cc: , , , , Auto makers break-in cars for us. Rob On Jul 12, 2010, at 12:44 PM, spook01@comcast.net wrote: > More tightly controlled clearances. And advanced engineering. Things haven't stood still since 66! > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: CoolVT@aol.com > Date: Mon, Jul 12, 2010 10:03 > Subject: [Tigers] Oil > To: , , > Cc: > > > Are we talking mainly about older, rebuilt engines? Many of the modern > cars have no special break in oil or instructions and the engine is under > warranty for 100,000 miles. Are the new engines that much better? > Mark > > > In a message dated 7/12/2010 10:39:04 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > rfraser@bluefrog.com writes: > > Allan > You have to investigate any oil these days. All oils are reducing > the amount of additives to comply with emissions regulations even for > diesel > engines. The labels on the bottles tell approximately the level of > additives but you need to know the label markings. If your breaking in a > newly rebuilt engine I say always add a bottle of additives to make sure > you > don't wipe a cam lobe and have to start over. > > Ron Fraser > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Allan Ballard > Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 9:22 AM > To: Carmods@aol.com > Cc: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil > > > Is there any problem using Rotella T oil? > > > On Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM, Carmods@aol.com wrote: > >> For many years, there has been no relationship between Quaker State >> motor oil and Pennsylvania crude. >> >> John Logan >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 14:27:05 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: , "'Rob Bernardino'" Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 16:04:36 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil When I worked a summer job at a GM engine plant back in the 70's, they ran every engine for a given amount of time on propane, I believe. I was too busy to note the length of time or the exact procedure. I'm sure it is no different today. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: spook01@comcast.net [mailto:spook01@comcast.net] Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 2:29 PM To: Rob Bernardino Cc: CoolVT@aol.com; rfraser@bluefrog.com; allanballard@att.net; Carmods@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil How so? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Rob Bernardino" Date: Mon, Jul 12, 2010 11:58 Subject: [Tigers] Oil To: "spook01@comcast.net" Cc: , , , , Auto makers break-in cars for us. Rob _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 18:40:51 2010 From: rab65tiger@aol.com To: mcdangerous@verizon.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 20:12:15 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed A porta power may help, and probably be rented,borrowed, or purchased from numerous tool companies. Northern tool, harbor freight, eastwood, speedway, local tool shops. http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-heavy-duty-portable-hydraulic-equipment-ki t-44899.html Harbor fright low qaulity, but may do the trick, easy to over push..... Randy B _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 18:44:39 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: "Would U. Believe" , Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 19:16:59 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed If the crossmember and chassis are that different then it would seem to be prudent to measure both sets of holes, compare against the frame measurement chart that's in the Tiger shop manual, and figure out which of the two is actually out of spec. My crossmember turned out to be flattened and opened up front to back (i.e. the front set of holes were closer to correct than the rear set). Jacking the chassis rails to fit the crossmember might be the easy way to make things bolt in, but if you're out by over 1/2" then you have little guarantee that the spread you're introducing is even on both sides. Cheers, Theo ________________________________________ From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe [mcdangerous@verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 6:16 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! Hello all. I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember. Unfortunately, I've run into a problem. I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough to install the fourth bolt. Ah, were it so easy! As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt. Then I tried to install either of the driver side bolts. No way. The holes do not match up. I tried everything for hours. I set the car down, and even bounced on it. No luck. Half of the hole is blocked by the frame. So, to stabilize it for now, installed the rear bolt on the passenger side. Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static display in my garage, not a drivable car. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 19:02:37 2010 From: rab65tiger@aol.com To: CoolVT@aol.com, rfraser@bluefrog.com, allanballard@att.net, Carmods@aol.com Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 20:31:15 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil Newer engines I believe are all roller cams, I do not think you can get a new car with a flat tappet cam. What I have read is two resons, superior qaulity design aspects of roller cam operation, and roller cams required, because smog requirements, to reduce emissions many additives being regulated out of oil. Internet information, not sure how accurate. I have seen several people wipe out flat tappet cams in short order, especially at break in, and new installs. RB -----Original Message----- From: CoolVT@aol.com To: rfraser@bluefrog.com; allanballard@att.net; Carmods@aol.com Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Jul 12, 2010 8:03 am Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil Are we talking mainly about older, rebuilt engines? Many of the modern ars have no special break in oil or instructions and the engine is under arranty for 100,000 miles. Are the new engines that much better? ark n a message dated 7/12/2010 10:39:04 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, fraser@bluefrog.com writes: Allan ou have to investigate any oil these days. All oils are reducing he amount of additives to comply with emissions regulations even for iesel ngines. The labels on the bottles tell approximately the level of dditives but you need to know the label markings. If your breaking in a ewly rebuilt engine I say always add a bottle of additives to make sure ou on't wipe a cam lobe and have to start over. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- rom: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] n Behalf Of Allan Ballard ent: Monday, July 12, 2010 9:22 AM o: Carmods@aol.com c: tigers@autox.team.net ubject: Re: [Tigers] Oil s there any problem using Rotella T oil? n Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM, Carmods@aol.com wrote: > For many years, there has been no relationship between Quaker State motor oil and Pennsylvania crude. John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net ______________________________________________ igers@autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. hecked by AVG - www.avg.com ersion: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2991 - Release Date: 07/12/10 6:36:00 ______________________________________________ igers@autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com ______________________________________________ igers@autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rab65tiger@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 19:13:52 2010 From: michael king To: "Smit, Theo" Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 10:50:47 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed On 13 July 2010 10:16, Smit, Theo wrote: > If the crossmember and chassis are that different then it would seem to be > prudent to measure both sets of holes, compare against the frame > measurement > chart that's in the Tiger shop manual, and figure out which of the two is > actually out of spec. My crossmember turned out to be flattened and opened > up > front to back (i.e. the front set of holes were closer to correct than the > rear set). Theo, A good point, as we all know the front cross members are prone to cracks, sagging etc, when bolted to the car they will stay connected, once removed if its no longer in true then it will be hard to get it back in. There was some measurements a while back for the tower to tower and cross dimensions to check the front suspension. The other thing is when the front end is out its prudent to brace the shock woers and fulcrum pins. -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 19:14:25 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: Theo.Smit@dynastream.com, mcdangerous@verizon.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:00:30 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed I wonder if it's possible that using bad engine mounts could be pulling the frame in? By any chance have you tried loosening the mounts? Mark In a message dated 7/12/2010 8:45:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com writes: If the crossmember and chassis are that different then it would seem to be prudent to measure both sets of holes, compare against the frame measurement chart that's in the Tiger shop manual, and figure out which of the two is actually out of spec. My crossmember turned out to be flattened and opened up front to back (i.e. the front set of holes were closer to correct than the rear set). Jacking the chassis rails to fit the crossmember might be the easy way to make things bolt in, but if you're out by over 1/2" then you have little guarantee that the spread you're introducing is even on both sides. Cheers, Theo ________________________________________ From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe [mcdangerous@verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 6:16 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! Hello all. I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember. Unfortunately, I've run into a problem. I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough to install the fourth bolt. Ah, were it so easy! As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt. Then I tried to install either of the driver side bolts. No way. The holes do not match up. I tried everything for hours. I set the car down, and even bounced on it. No luck. Half of the hole is blocked by the frame. So, to stabilize it for now, installed the rear bolt on the passenger side. Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static display in my garage, not a drivable car. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 19:43:02 2010 From: David T Johnson To: CoolVT@aol.com, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com, mcdangerous@verizon.net, Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 18:23:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed This happened to me when I dropped my cross member. As I noted, I jacked the LAT oil pan up just enough to take up the engine weight. Its the engine weight that is causing problems. Once unweighted, all be cross member bolts went in with out issue Dave ________________________________ From: "CoolVT@aol.com" To: Theo.Smit@dynastream.com; mcdangerous@verizon.net; tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Mon, July 12, 2010 9:00:30 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! I wonder if it's possible that using bad engine mounts could be pulling the frame in? By any chance have you tried loosening the mounts? Mark In a message dated 7/12/2010 8:45:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com writes: If the crossmember and chassis are that different then it would seem to be prudent to measure both sets of holes, compare against the frame measurement chart that's in the Tiger shop manual, and figure out which of the two is actually out of spec. My crossmember turned out to be flattened and opened up front to back (i.e. the front set of holes were closer to correct than the rear set). Jacking the chassis rails to fit the crossmember might be the easy way to make things bolt in, but if you're out by over 1/2" then you have little guarantee that the spread you're introducing is even on both sides. Cheers, Theo ________________________________________ From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe [mcdangerous@verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 6:16 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! Hello all. I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember. Unfortunately, I've run into a problem. I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough to install the fourth bolt. Ah, were it so easy! As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt. Then I tried to install either of the driver side bolts. No way. The holes do not match up. I tried everything for hours. I set the car down, and even bounced on it. No luck. Half of the hole is blocked by the frame. So, to stabilize it for now, installed the rear bolt on the passenger side. Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static display in my garage, not a drivable car. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 19:58:30 2010 From: Jim To: "CoolVT@aol.com" Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 18:29:57 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed That's what I would do... Loosen all the mounts and 'hang' the motor... Then get the damn cross member bolted in . The motor mounts are a lot more forgiving ! Don't forget to put 'safety' bolts in the mounts! See the great article on Tigers United called '350 Lunati stroker' about that one... Jim B382000446 Sent from my iPhone On 2010-07-12, at 6:00 PM, CoolVT@aol.com wrote: > I wonder if it's possible that using bad engine mounts could be > pulling > the frame in? By any chance have you tried loosening the mounts? > Mark > > > In a message dated 7/12/2010 8:45:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > Theo.Smit@dynastream.com writes: > > If the crossmember and chassis are that different then it would > seem to be > prudent to measure both sets of holes, compare against the frame > measurement > chart that's in the Tiger shop manual, and figure out which of the > two is > actually out of spec. My crossmember turned out to be flattened and > opened > up > front to back (i.e. the front set of holes were closer to correct > than the > rear set). > > Jacking the chassis rails to fit the crossmember might be the easy > way to > make > things bolt in, but if you're out by over 1/2" then you have little > guarantee > that the spread you're introducing is even on both sides. > > Cheers, > Theo > ________________________________________ > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] > On > Behalf > Of Would U. Believe [mcdangerous@verizon.net] > Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 6:16 PM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed > Please! > > Hello all. I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over > this > weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember. > Unfortunately, I've > run into a problem. I expected to be able to install three bolts, > set the > car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame > rails enough > to install the fourth bolt. Ah, were it so easy! > > As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward > bolt. Then I > tried to install either of the driver side bolts. No way. The > holes do > not > match up. I tried everything for hours. I set the car down, and even > bounced on it. No luck. Half of the hole is blocked by the > frame. So, > to > stabilize it for now, installed the rear bolt on the passenger side. > Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice > static > display in my garage, not a drivable car. > > > --- > --- > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > --- > This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material > for the > sole > use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, > please > be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this > e-mail > or > any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in > error, > please contact the sender and delete all copies. > > Thank you for your cooperation. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim@island.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 19:58:48 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:30:27 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] MKII / Six Bolt Clutch Slave Cylinder Setup > Hi all. I have a question about the clutch cylinder setup on the MK2/289 six > bolt bellhousing. I have the MK2 clutch slave cylinder bracket and the MK1A9s > slave cylinder, so that9s a good start. But because the clutch fork is > different from the older 5 bolt housing9s clutch fork, I9m wondering if the > 3actuating rod2 from the slave cylinder is also different, or if the 2609s > part will work. Does anyone know? Thanks. ( I hope that all makes some > sense!) _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 19:59:23 2010 From: "Peter Laurinaitis" To: Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:38:47 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Shipping just for a point of reference, i shipped an engine on a pallet from CT to Doug Jennings in OH for around $300 ish my engine builder bolted the engine rack right onto the pallet i dont recall which shipper he used but can check if needed peter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Glenn" To: Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 7:31 PM Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping > Friends, > > I bought a Mk1 last year. Doug Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI V > and > I drove it home to San Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both. > > I'm looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA > and > was hoping for some references and advice. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 12 21:15:41 2010 From: "Scattt" To: "Would U. Believe" , Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 22:51:55 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] MKII / Six Bolt Clutch Slave Cylinder Setup The actuating rods are the same. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Would U. Believe" To: Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 9:30 PM Subject: [Tigers] MKII / Six Bolt Clutch Slave Cylinder Setup >> Hi all. I have a question about the clutch cylinder setup on the MK2/289 > six >> bolt bellhousing. I have the MK2 clutch slave cylinder bracket and the > MK1A9s >> slave cylinder, so that9s a good start. But because the clutch fork is >> different from the older 5 bolt housing9s clutch fork, I9m wondering if >> the >> 3actuating rod2 from the slave cylinder is also different, or if the >> 2609s >> part will work. Does anyone know? Thanks. ( I hope that all makes >> some >> sense!) > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/scattt@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 00:14:07 2010 From: Gyroplanes@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 01:46:34 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please explain this to a new guy. My engine is out, so now would be the time. Tom Milton Lansing, IL. 1964 Tiger project B382000257 In a message dated 7/12/2010 8:14:49 P.M. Central Daylight Time, michael.s.king@gmail.com writes: The other thing is when the front end is out its prudent to brace the shock woers and fulcrum pins _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 05:15:32 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Gary Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 06:49:30 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] MK2 Clutch Slave Cylinder Pushrod Setup Hi and thanks. I hope you don't mind that I copy the list in the hope of acquiring the needed info. No, I have the original MK2 bell housing, which is the C5DA-6394-A, as described in this article. The bellhousings of the MK1A and the MK2 have obvious differences in that the MK1A has a five bolt engine attachment pattern and a narrow bolt pattern for the transmission, and the MK2 has a six bolt engine attachment pattern and a wide arrangement for the HEH-CF transmission. Both have 10.5 inch clutch forks (lever arms) (the Mk1A attaches to the bellhousing pivot with a weak looking wire clip, and the MK2 with a stronger looking flat spring clip). The difference that has me wondering is at the slave cylinder ends of the two lever arms, which are different. The MK1A9s lever arm uses a unique clip to hold the slave cylinder clutch rod to the end of the clutch fork. The MK2 (as shown in the article) has a simple conical pit in it, with no provisions for any retaining clip. The author of the article says, 3I9m not sure if this [MK1A] clutch rod clip works with the [MK2] lever arm, but you may be able to modify it.2 My questions are, since there are no provisions for a clutch rod retaining wire clip on the MK2 arm, does this mean either that the pushrod is different on the MK2 than it was on the MK1A, and (if not) is there a need to use a retaining clip at all with the MK2 clutch lever arm? If both answers are negative, then I will simply install the MK1A pushrod into the slave cylinder and hope for the best. Does anyone know how the MK2 setup looked? I want to be sure about this because I can9t imagine the disaster that would be caused by firing the pushrod out of the slave cylinder! Thanks in advance. M On 7/13/10 3:38 AM, "Gary" wrote: > You may have the wrong clutch fork. You need to use the same clutch fork as > the 5 bolt setup, at least the same length. Read the attached article to find > out which bellhousing and clutch fork you do have. > > Gary > > --- On Mon, 7/12/10, Would U. Believe wrote: >> >> From: Would U. Believe >> Subject: [Tigers] MKII / Six Bolt Clutch Slave Cylinder Setup >> To: "tigers@autox.team.net" >> Date: Monday, July 12, 2010, 6:30 PM >> >>> Hi all. I have a question about the clutch cylinder setup on the MK2/289 >> six >>> bolt bellhousing. I have the MK2 clutch slave cylinder bracket and the >> MK1A's slave cylinder, so that's a good start. But because the clutch fork >> is >>> different from the older 5 bolt housing's clutch fork, I'm wondering if the >>> 3actuating rod2 from the slave cylinder is also different, or if the 2609s >>> part will work. Does anyone know? Thanks. (I hope that all makes some >>> sense!) >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers@autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/maliburevue@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 07:17:57 2010 From: Tom Parker To: Gyroplanes@aol.com Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 08:50:31 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Tom, If your cross member is out of the car you need to take two sets of measurements: Between the towers and the bolt hole spacing. The C.A.T. Shop Notes has the tower measurements; if you don't have a copy you need one. Bill Graf's the parts manager, he's a good guy; they have parts even Rick doesn't carry. You have to join to buy. The frame spec in the Tiger Workshop manual only gives the rear bolt spacing: 22.56". Cross member - frame bolts: Measure between the bolt holes, center to center: Front = 24 1/8" + / - 1/8" Rear = 22 1/2" + / - 1/8" The diagonal between the bolts should be about 24 1/8+ Crossmember - tower spacing - measure at the upper A Arm mounts: Front: 30 11/16" Rear: 28 - 28 3/16" Per C.A.T. Page F 6. The bolt spacing tells you if the frame and cross member will mate, the towers tells you whether you'll be able to align the front end. Again, if you don't have the C.A.T. shop notes, you need to get a copy (in my opinion; it's saved me more times than I care to admit.) My Kitty had a hard life. The crossmember bolt spacing was correct but the bolts were elongated to the outside, implying the body had been spread a time or two; even with the bolts tight it moved. After the body rebuild the body was a bit tighter than spec. Welding does that. When you put the engine in - if you do it from the bottom - you need to get the engine in position and install the crossmember before you install the engine mounts, or with the engine mount bracket bolts loose in their frame holes (no load from the engine on the car). Remember to remove both brake lines before you drop the cross member. The right side line is easy to forget! Tom ' 67 Mark 2 On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 1:46 AM, wrote: > Please explain this to a new guy. My engine is out, so now would be the > time. > > Tom Milton > Lansing, IL. > 1964 Tiger project > B382000257 > > > > > In a message dated 7/12/2010 8:14:49 P.M. Central Daylight Time, > michael.s.king@gmail.com writes: > > The other thing is when the front > end is out its prudent to brace the shock woers and fulcrum pins > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 09:18:44 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: "Would U. Believe" Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 09:48:10 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55 degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp. So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you thread on those bolts with the die, the better. Good luck, Theo ________________________________________ From: Would U. Believe [mcdangerous@verizon.net] Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 7:05 PM To: Smit, Theo Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! Well, as it turns out, in a short time after work, with fresh eyes and a fresh mind, I was able to get the third bolt in and the fourth hole is lined up. Unfortunately, I flattened the beginning threads of the fourth bolt yesterday and will have to use a die to freshen them (or find another bolt. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 09:50:20 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Would U. Believe'" , "'Gary'" Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:24:30 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK2 Clutch Slave Cylinder Pushrod Setup M All the part number seem to be the same from Mk I to Mk II for the slave cylinder parts. I always recommend you safety wire the pushrod so just in case there is a problem you do not loose the pushrod in the middle of nowhere. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 6:50 AM To: Gary Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] MK2 Clutch Slave Cylinder Pushrod Setup Hi and thanks. I hope you don't mind that I copy the list in the hope of acquiring the needed info. No, I have the original MK2 bell housing, which is the C5DA-6394-A, as described in this article. The bellhousings of the MK1A and the MK2 have obvious differences in that the MK1A has a five bolt engine attachment pattern and a narrow bolt pattern for the transmission, and the MK2 has a six bolt engine attachment pattern and a wide arrangement for the HEH-CF transmission. Both have 10.5 inch clutch forks (lever arms) (the Mk1A attaches to the bellhousing pivot with a weak looking wire clip, and the MK2 with a stronger looking flat spring clip). The difference that has me wondering is at the slave cylinder ends of the two lever arms, which are different. The MK1A9s lever arm uses a unique clip to hold the slave cylinder clutch rod to the end of the clutch fork. The MK2 (as shown in the article) has a simple conical pit in it, with no provisions for any retaining clip. The author of the article says, 3I9m not sure if this [MK1A] clutch rod clip works with the [MK2] lever arm, but you may be able to modify it.2 My questions are, since there are no provisions for a clutch rod retaining wire clip on the MK2 arm, does this mean either that the pushrod is different on the MK2 than it was on the MK1A, and (if not) is there a need to use a retaining clip at all with the MK2 clutch lever arm? If both answers are negative, then I will simply install the MK1A pushrod into the slave cylinder and hope for the best. Does anyone know how the MK2 setup looked? I want to be sure about this because I can9t imagine the disaster that would be caused by firing the pushrod out of the slave cylinder! Thanks in advance. M On 7/13/10 3:38 AM, "Gary" wrote: > You may have the wrong clutch fork. You need to use the same clutch > fork as the 5 bolt setup, at least the same length. Read the attached > article to find > out which bellhousing and clutch fork you do have. > > Gary > > --- On Mon, 7/12/10, Would U. Believe wrote: >> >> From: Would U. Believe >> Subject: [Tigers] MKII / Six Bolt Clutch Slave Cylinder Setup >> To: "tigers@autox.team.net" >> Date: Monday, July 12, 2010, 6:30 PM >> >>> Hi all. I have a question about the clutch cylinder setup on the >>> MK2/289 >> six >>> bolt bellhousing. I have the MK2 clutch slave cylinder bracket and >>> the >> MK1A's slave cylinder, so that's a good start. But because the >> clutch fork >> is >>> different from the older 5 bolt housing's clutch fork, I'm wondering >>> if the >>> 3actuating rod2 from the slave cylinder is also different, or if the 2609s >>> part will work. Does anyone know? Thanks. (I hope that all makes >>> some >>> sense!) _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 09:54:08 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Smit, Theo'" , "'Would U. Believe'" Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:35:23 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed I would suggest you put a slight point on the bolt to get by the bad threads; a thread file might work OK here too. As Theo states the threads for UNF are slightly different from SAE threads. If you have another same bolt available I would cut grooves in the length of the bolt threads to make it a thread chaser to clean the threads in the frame. If you have just the one bolt then be less aggressive and shorter with the grooves and run the bolt in a out a few times cleaning the grooves each time until clean. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Smit, Theo Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 10:48 AM To: Would U. Believe Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55 degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp. So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you thread on those bolts with the die, the better. Good luck, Theo ________________________________________ From: Would U. Believe [mcdangerous@verizon.net] Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 7:05 PM To: Smit, Theo Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! Well, as it turns out, in a short time after work, with fresh eyes and a fresh mind, I was able to get the third bolt in and the fourth hole is lined up. Unfortunately, I flattened the beginning threads of the fourth bolt yesterday and will have to use a die to freshen them (or find another bolt. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 10:50:11 2010 From: mcdangerous@verizon.net To: Theo.Smit@dynastream.com Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:23:35 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Roger that! Thanks. M Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55 degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp. So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you thread on those bolts with the die, the better. Good luck, Theo ________________________________________ From: Would U. Believe [mcdangerous@verizon.net] Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 7:05 PM To: Smit, Theo Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please! Well, as it turns out, in a short time after work, with fresh eyes and a fresh mind, I was able to get the third bolt in and the fourth hole is lined up. Unfortunately, I flattened the beginning threads of the fourth bolt yesterday and will have to use a die to freshen them (or find another bolt. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 11:32:53 2010 From: drmayf To: mcdangerous@verizon.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 10:04:52 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Actually, the grip length is the amount of the bolt that is unthreaded, i.e., the shank of the bolt. mayf mcdangerous@verizon.net wrote: >Roger that! Thanks. M > >Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: > >Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55 degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp. So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you thread on those bolts with the die, the better. > >Good luck, >Theo _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 12:04:32 2010 From: dave@munroe.ca To: drmayf@mayfco.com,mcdangerous@verizon.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 17:43:32 +0000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease! Hey Mayf, That is, interestingly, counter-intuitive. Dave ------Original Message------ From: drmayf Sender: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net To: mcdangerous@verizon.net Cc: Theo.Smit@dynastream.com Cc: tigers@autox.team.net ReplyTo: drmayf@mayfco.com Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease! Sent: 13 Jul 2010 14:04 Actually, the grip length is the amount of the bolt that is unthreaded, i.e., the shank of the bolt. mayf mcdangerous@verizon.net wrote: >Roger that! Thanks. M > >Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: > >Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55 degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp. So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you thread on those bolts with the die, the better. > >Good luck, >Theo _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave@munroe.ca Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 12:58:09 2010 From: drmayf To: dave@munroe.ca Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:10:58 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease! Not when you really think about it. Think about two plates being bolted together. You want the strongest part of the bolt, the unthreaded part, to carry the load. If part of the bolt that is threaded in in the hole then the load capacity is reduced because of the root diameter of the bolt: ie smaller cross section for either shear or tension. mayf dave@munroe.ca wrote: >Hey Mayf, > >That is, interestingly, counter-intuitive. > >Dave > >------Original Message------ >From: drmayf >Sender: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net >To: mcdangerous@verizon.net >Cc: Theo.Smit@dynastream.com >Cc: tigers@autox.team.net >ReplyTo: drmayf@mayfco.com >Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease! >Sent: 13 Jul 2010 14:04 > >Actually, the grip length is the amount of the bolt that is unthreaded, >i.e., the shank of the bolt. > >mayf >mcdangerous@verizon.net wrote: > > > >>Roger that! Thanks. M >> >>Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: >> >>Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55 degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp. So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you thread on those bolts with the die, the better. >> >>Good luck, >>Theo >> >> >_ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 13:23:11 2010 From: Sandy Ganz To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:48:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats Tiger Fun - Was up to 2am working on the Tiger last night. Got a new steering wheel adapter from Crowders Customizing and this one seems to work. This was a Nardi branded one vs. some generic that I received last time. Some of the trim had to be removed and it seems about an 1" longer then the Motolita wheel adapter (steering is 1" closer to driver). But spline is correct. The trim is a bit short but some black paint will make it look good enough. While that was out rebuilt the turn indicator switch with a Sunbeam Specialties kit and that was a lot of fun getting the pivot/rivet thing out. It was hard to drill as it spun, finally crimped it and shoved a screwdriver in to keep from spinning. Mission accomplished, my turn switch now cancels when you turn the wheel! And now an actual question! Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II models and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much work and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer. http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/# Thanks for any seat tips, someone sent me some a while back, but I can't dig up the email. Sandy _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 13:23:40 2010 From: "Dave Munroe" To: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:51:45 -0300 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease! > Not when you really think about it. Think about two plates being bolted > together. You want the strongest part of the bolt, the unthreaded part, > to carry the load. If part of the bolt that is threaded in in the hole > then the load capacity is reduced because of the root diameter of the > bolt: ie smaller cross section for either shear or tension. > > mayf > dave@munroe.ca wrote: > >>Hey Mayf, >> >>That is, interestingly, counter-intuitive. >> >>Dave ! >>Sent: 13 Jul 2010 14:04 >> >>Actually, the grip length is the amount of the bolt that is unthreaded, >>i.e., the shank of the bolt. >> >>mayf >>mcdangerous@verizon.net wrote: _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 13:23:47 2010 From: "Dave Munroe" To: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:57:32 -0300 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease! Now that makes sense! ( I should have really thought about it. ) Thanks for the lesson, Dr.MayF. Dave From: drmayf Sender: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Not when you really think about it. Think about two plates being bolted together. You want the strongest part of the bolt, the unthreaded part, to carry the load. If part of the bolt that is threaded is in the hole then the load capacity is reduced because of the root diameter of the bolt: ie smaller cross section for either shear or tension. mayf dave@munroe.ca wrote: Hey Mayf, That is, interestingly, counter-intuitive. Dave Actually, the grip length is the amount of the bolt that is unthreaded, i.e., the shank of the bolt. mayf mcdangerous@verizon.net wrote: Roger that! Thanks. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 13:52:08 2010 From: Larry Paulick To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:31:22 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats I have the Fonza seat in my Tiger. Like them as you sit in the as opposed as sitting on the Tiger seat. The higher back does away with wind buffeting. Adds leg room. Work is involved. Larry On 7/13/10 2:48 PM, Sandy Ganz wrote: > Tiger Fun - > > Was up to 2am working on the Tiger last night. Got a new steering wheel adapter > from Crowders Customizing and this one seems to work. This was a Nardi branded > one vs. some generic that I received last time. Some of the trim had to be > removed and it seems about an 1" longer then the Motolita wheel adapter > (steering is 1" closer to driver). But spline is correct. The trim is a bit > short but some black paint will make it look good enough. > > While that was out rebuilt the turn indicator switch with a Sunbeam Specialties > kit and that was a lot of fun getting the pivot/rivet thing out. It was hard to > drill as it spun, finally crimped it and shoved a screwdriver in to keep from > spinning. Mission accomplished, my turn switch now cancels when you turn the > wheel! > > And now an actual question! > > Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II models > and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much work > and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer. > > http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/# > > Thanks for any seat tips, someone sent me some a while back, but I can't dig up > the email. > > Sandy _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 15:24:20 2010 From: ZForce56@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 16:55:54 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Stainless steel bumpers Has anyone got any experience with the stainless steel bumpers marketed by the Harrington Group and made in Vietnam? I am interested in knowing the about the fit, finish, and quality. I have recently-replated original chrome bumpers but the plater was not sufficiently skilled and the bumpers are objectionably wavy. Thanks, Zach _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 15:39:28 2010 From: Carmods@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 17:07:07 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: Theo, Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread (BSF)? What size are they? John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 15:39:48 2010 From: jliny5@cox.net To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 21:13:51 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Car Transport Good afternoon As my effort to acquire a Tiger moves along, I was wondering if the List has any recommendations on enclosed car transport companies. I got a quote from Reliable (advertised on MECUM site) and spoke to Passport Transport, but they had limitations on Operating in Virginia, where I reside. Any recommendations or comments welcome. Once again great to be on the list, I am learning a lot. Thx, Jim Lindner Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 15:39:51 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: Sandy Ganz , "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 16:15:32 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats Check the base measurements on that seat... I'm not sure that it will fit side to side. They have the original Classic that is an inch narrower, but even that one might be a squeeze to get in there. IIRC, the Tiger rails are also not symmetric with respect to the seat centerline so some adapting is required regardless. Theo ________________________________________ From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sandy Ganz [sganz@pacbell.net] Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 12:48 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats Tiger Fun - And now an actual question! Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II models and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much work and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer. http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/# ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 16:12:24 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: , Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 17:55:44 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache John The bolts are 1/2" UNF x 3 1/4"; UNF is compatible with SAE fine thread but there are small differences. An SAE tap run through these threads will cut metal. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carmods@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 5:07 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: Theo, Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread (BSF)? What size are they? John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2998 - Release Date: 07/13/10 06:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 17:41:44 2010 From: michael king To: ZForce56@aol.com Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 08:43:23 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stainless steel bumpers There have been mixed reports about them.. the finish is meant to be good, the fit however might be questionable and the strangth the same. There is a thread on the CAT board discussing them.. maybe have a quick read. On 14 July 2010 06:55, wrote: > Has anyone got any experience with the stainless steel bumpers marketed by > the Harrington Group and made in Vietnam? I am interested in knowing the > about the fit, finish, and quality. I have recently-replated original > chrome > bumpers but the plater was not sufficiently skilled and the bumpers are > objectionably wavy. > Thanks, > Zach > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 17:43:45 2010 From: Jeffery Randall To: jliny5@cox.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 18:44:07 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Car Transport What I do is rent a Penski 16ft truck for less 100 aday and do it my self hire alocal tow guy to load and unload On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 5:13 PM, wrote: > Good afternoon > > As my effort to acquire a Tiger moves along, I was wondering if the List > has any recommendations on enclosed car transport companies. I got a quote > from Reliable (advertised on MECUM site) and spoke to Passport Transport, > but they had limitations on Operating in Virginia, where I reside. Any > recommendations or comments welcome. > > Once again great to be on the list, I am learning a lot. > > Thx, > > Jim Lindner > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 17:43:53 2010 From: michael king To: "Smit, Theo" Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 08:45:57 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats I used the cobra classic bucket, which from what i can tell is almost the same as the corbeau classic seat.. the one you have shown looks a little wide.. here is a picture of the bucket in my alpine SII. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1136010562054462410yZGscn On 14 July 2010 07:15, Smit, Theo wrote: > Check the base measurements on that seat... I'm not sure that it will fit > side > to side. They have the original Classic that is an inch narrower, but even > that one might be a squeeze to get in there. IIRC, the Tiger rails are also > not symmetric with respect to the seat centerline so some adapting is > required > regardless. > > Theo > ________________________________________ > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On > Behalf > Of Sandy Ganz [sganz@pacbell.net] > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 12:48 PM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats > > Tiger Fun - > > And now an actual question! > > Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II > models > and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much > work > and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer. > > http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/# > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > --- > This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the > sole > use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, > please > be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail > or > any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, > please contact the sender and delete all copies. > > Thank you for your cooperation. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 17:44:10 2010 From: Jeffery Randall To: Carmods@aol.com Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 18:46:26 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache SAE fine thread from the Ace store work just fine On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 5:07 PM, wrote: > Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: > > they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: > > > > Theo, > > Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread (BSF)? > > What size are they? > > John Logan > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 17:46:16 2010 From: Steve Ralsten To: tigers@autox.team.net, ZForce56@aol.com Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:53:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stainless steel bumpers Read from the CAT discussion board here... http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?t=289 Steve --- On Tue, 7/13/10, ZForce56@aol.com wrote: > From: ZForce56@aol.com > Subject: [Tigers] Stainless steel bumpers > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Date: Tuesday, July 13, 2010, 1:55 PM > Has anyone got any experience with > the stainless steel bumpers marketed by > the Harrington Group and made in Vietnam? I am interested > in knowing the > about the fit, finish, and quality. I have > recently-replated original chrome > bumpers but the plater was not sufficiently skilled > and the bumpers are > objectionably wavy. > Thanks, > Zach _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 18:14:40 2010 From: Tom Parker To: Carmods@aol.com Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 19:23:33 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache I checked the Alpine parts book. They're UNF threads. Tom On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 5:07 PM, wrote: > Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: > > they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: > > > > Theo, > > Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread (BSF)? > > What size are they? > > John Logan > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 19:39:53 2010 From: Sandy Ganz To: michael king , "Smit, Theo" Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 17:48:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats Thanks all so far for the seat suggestions. Michael was the one that I was looking for. I like the look of that seat, still looks vintage. The width of the Cobra Classic was 19.3" and the wide point and I think the Corbeau's were right at 19" as well. I'll have to get some measurements going. I may be removing the console and that might allow some wiggle room but will have to get the tape measure out tonight. Also Michael, what did you do to mount those seats, did you use the Sunbeam rails or new brackets to mount the seats? And same question Larry ;) Thanks a bunch for the feedback! Sandy ________________________________ From: michael king To: "Smit, Theo" Cc: Sandy Ganz ; "tigers@autox.team.net" Sent: Tue, July 13, 2010 3:45:57 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats I used the cobra classic bucket, which from what i can tell is almost the same as the corbeau classic seat.. the one you have shown looks a little wide.. here is a picture of the bucket in my alpine SII. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1136010562054462410yZGscn On 14 July 2010 07:15, Smit, Theo wrote: Check the base measurements on that seat... I'm not sure that it will fit side >to side. They have the original Classic that is an inch narrower, but even >that one might be a squeeze to get in there. IIRC, the Tiger rails are also >not symmetric with respect to the seat centerline so some adapting is required >regardless. > >Theo >________________________________________ >From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf >Of Sandy Ganz [sganz@pacbell.net] >Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 12:48 PM >To: tigers@autox.team.net >Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats > >Tiger Fun - > > >And now an actual question! > >Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II >models >and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much work >and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer. > >http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/# > >----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >--- >This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole >use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please >be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or >any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, >please contact the sender and delete all copies. > >Thank you for your cooperation. >_______________________________________________ > >Tigers@autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 19:41:09 2010 From: michael king To: Sandy Ganz Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 10:57:22 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats Sandy, I used the runners that cobra sold.. they have fore and aft movement..AIMHO are a lot safer than thee rootes sunners as the seat doesnt hinge forward so wont throw you in a hit. Also apart from the side bolsters holding you in in the corners, the fact the seat is secure to the floor on all 4 corners means it doesnt lean either.. feels much more solid. Also.. i didnt go for the optional headrests as they are too short to do anything.. now.. to throw in another option.. and a lot more pricey.. but there are replca porsche RS carerra seats from GTS that i htink are even nicer.. but cost a fair bit more: http://gtsclassics.com.au/Details.cfm?ProdID=47&category=2 though iwould not sue the head rests... On 14 July 2010 10:48, Sandy Ganz wrote: > Thanks all so far for the seat suggestions. Michael was the one that I > was looking for. I like the look of that seat, still looks vintage. The > width of the Cobra Classic was 19.3" and the wide point and I think the > Corbeau's were right at 19" as well. I'll have to get some measurements > going. > > I may be removing the console and that might allow some wiggle room but > will have to get the tape measure out tonight. > > Also Michael, what did you do to mount those seats, did you use the Sunbeam > rails or new brackets to mount the seats? And same question Larry ;) > > Thanks a bunch for the feedback! > > Sandy > > ------------------------------ > *From:* michael king > *To:* "Smit, Theo" > *Cc:* Sandy Ganz ; "tigers@autox.team.net" < > tigers@autox.team.net> > *Sent:* Tue, July 13, 2010 3:45:57 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats > > I used the cobra classic bucket, which from what i can tell is almost the > same as the corbeau classic seat.. the one you have shown looks a little > wide.. here is a picture of the bucket in my alpine SII. > > http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1136010562054462410yZGscn > > > > On 14 July 2010 07:15, Smit, Theo wrote: > >> Check the base measurements on that seat... I'm not sure that it will fit >> side >> to side. They have the original Classic that is an inch narrower, but even >> that one might be a squeeze to get in there. IIRC, the Tiger rails are >> also >> not symmetric with respect to the seat centerline so some adapting is >> required >> regardless. >> >> Theo >> ________________________________________ >> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On >> Behalf >> Of Sandy Ganz [sganz@pacbell.net] >> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 12:48 PM >> To: tigers@autox.team.net >> Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats >> >> Tiger Fun - >> >> And now an actual question! >> >> Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II >> models >> and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much >> work >> and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer. >> >> http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/# >> >> >> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> --- >> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the >> sole >> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, >> please >> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail >> or >> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, >> please contact the sender and delete all copies. >> >> Thank you for your cooperation. >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers@autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com >> >> > > > -- > Regards > > Michael King > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 20:13:21 2010 From: David T Johnson To: Tom Parker , Carmods@aol.com Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 18:30:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache I have covered this years ago. Your nearest Caterpillar dealer parts counter sells genuine CAT bolts, nuts, washers. All grade 8, phosphate coated for outdoor use, feature rolled threads and are quality USA made. Deere bolts are supposed to be good. Washers? CAT washers actually fit the underside of a bolt head relief and have the correct taper side. Taper? That's so the washer straightens up when torgue is applied. Forget the Auto parts stuff. Bonus. Some CAT bolt heads say CAT. ________________________________ From: Tom Parker To: Carmods@aol.com Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Tue, July 13, 2010 7:23:33 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache I checked the Alpine parts book. They're UNF threads. Tom On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 5:07 PM, wrote: > Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: > > they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: > > > > Theo, > > Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread (BSF)? > > What size are they? > > John Logan > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 20:14:13 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 21:30:05 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust Flanges for OEM Exhaust Manifolds/Downpipes OK, next problem: I received the lovely stainless steel downpipes to use with the stock exhaust manifolds from Sunbeam Specialties today, but these do not come with the absolutely necessary flanges. Rick doesn't sell these. What a drag! Does anyone know where I can find a set of the OEM exhaust flanges (or replacements), and/or what other cars used the same ones? Any advice will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance for your help. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 21:17:20 2010 From: "rande" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 22:22:08 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] crossmember taps I wondered if someone local (US) could get UNF tap and dies http://products.tapcousa.com This outfit sells a single 1/2"-20 UNF set for around 29.00US plus shipping. The other choice is 1/2"-13 which sounds like course thread. Someone else is welcome check their site, enter the information and see if they come up with similar results, or maybe another supplier. RB _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 22:15:43 2010 From: "Peter Laurinaitis" To: , Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 23:34:44 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Car Transport i had a great experience with intercity, do do mostly coast to coast, but i shipped a car from Nebraska to NY using them last year http://www.intercitylines.com/ they were highly recommended when i was asking folks ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 5:13 PM Subject: [Tigers] Car Transport > Good afternoon > > As my effort to acquire a Tiger moves along, I was wondering if the List > has any recommendations on enclosed car transport companies. I got a quote > from Reliable (advertised on MECUM site) and spoke to Passport Transport, > but they had limitations on Operating in Virginia, where I reside. Any > recommendations or comments welcome. > > Once again great to be on the list, I am learning a lot. > > Thx, > > Jim Lindner > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/laurin212@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 22:15:59 2010 From: "Sigma Engineering" To: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 23:42:42 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] crossmember taps Try Travers Tool Supply...i get most of my machining supplies from them, have for many years. Various grades offered but all good stuff depending on your application (home, shop, commercial). 1/2-20 taps starting at around $5 (they probably have 100's of 1/2-20 tap choices) http://www.travers.com/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "rande" To: Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 10:22 PM Subject: [Tigers] crossmember taps >I wondered if someone local (US) could get UNF tap and dies > > http://products.tapcousa.com > > This outfit sells a single 1/2"-20 UNF set for around 29.00US plus > shipping. > The other choice is 1/2"-13 which sounds like course thread. > > Someone else is welcome check their site, enter the information and see if > they > come up with similar results, or maybe another supplier. > > RB > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 22:17:49 2010 From: Tom Hall To: rande@thecia.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 20:49:07 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] crossmember taps At 07:22 PM 7/13/2010, you wrote: >I wondered if someone local (US) could get UNF tap and dies > >http://products.tapcousa.com > >This outfit sells a single 1/2"-20 UNF set for around 29.00US plus shipping. >The other choice is 1/2"-13 which sounds like course thread. > >Someone else is welcome check their site, enter the information and >see if they >come up with similar results, or maybe another supplier. If you are going to chase and re-thread the frame tube nuts, you will need a tap with an extended shank. The standard shank length will not get you far enough into the tube to do this job correctly. McMaster-Carr P/N 2582A21 will do the job nicely. I use this on every frame I repair when I attach my reinforcing plates. Tom Hall ModTiger Engineering LLC www.tigerengineering.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 22:45:25 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Would U. Believe'" , Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 00:01:17 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust Flanges for OEM Exhaust Manifolds/Downpipes M Flange, exhaust - C3AZ-5269-A Any shop that does exhaust systems should have them. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 9:30 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust Flanges for OEM Exhaust Manifolds/Downpipes OK, next problem: I received the lovely stainless steel downpipes to use with the stock exhaust manifolds from Sunbeam Specialties today, but these do not come with the absolutely necessary flanges. Rick doesn't sell these. What a drag! Does anyone know where I can find a set of the OEM exhaust flanges (or replacements), and/or what other cars used the same ones? Any advice will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance for your help. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2998 - Release Date: 07/13/10 06:36:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Jul 13 23:44:44 2010 From: Sandy Ganz To: Tom Hall , rande@thecia.net Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 21:49:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] crossmember taps Tom, not sure if that linked worked, but here is another to the part - http://www.mcmaster.com/#2582a21/=7y9u7b Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: Tom Hall To: rande@thecia.net Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Sent: Tue, July 13, 2010 8:49:07 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] crossmember taps At 07:22 PM 7/13/2010, you wrote: >I wondered if someone local (US) could get UNF tap and dies > >http://products.tapcousa.com > >This outfit sells a single 1/2"-20 UNF set for around 29.00US plus shipping. >The other choice is 1/2"-13 which sounds like course thread. > >Someone else is welcome check their site, enter the information and >see if they >come up with similar results, or maybe another supplier. If you are going to chase and re-thread the frame tube nuts, you will need a tap with an extended shank. The standard shank length will not get you far enough into the tube to do this job correctly. McMaster-Carr P/N 2582A21 will do the job nicely. I use this on every frame I repair when I attach my reinforcing plates. Tom Hall ModTiger Engineering LLC www.tigerengineering.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 14 09:52:46 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: "Carmods@aol.com" , "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:57:37 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache Good question! I re-read the various standards (at least as described by Wikipedia) and combined with the Alpine parts reference cited earlier I don't think that these are British thread after all. BSW (British Standard Whitworth) in 1/2" has a 12 thread pitch, while BSF has 16 threads per inch. We know that the chassis bolts are 1/2-20. UNF is spec'ed at 1/2-20 while UNC is 1/2-13. So the question that remains is, are these bolts made with a 60 degree thread profile or not? If they are, are they designed for an interference fit (which might explain why a standard die will remove material from the bolt threads)? As already stated, these bolts have a longer threaded section and shorter grip length (thanks Mayf!) than a standard SAE bolt, so you can't easily go to your local ACE hardware store to buy replacements. Using a thread die to put extra threads on a store bought bolt is dangerous because it causes stress risers at the root of the threads - conventional bolts have the threads rolled into them, which essentially forges the threads into the bolt and strengthens the threaded area. Theo ________________________________________ From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carmods@aol.com [Carmods@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:07 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: Theo, Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread (BSF)? What size are they? John Logan _______________________________________________ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 14 10:12:40 2010 From: David or Gary To: Would U. Believe Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 15:43:01 GMT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust Flanges for OEM Exhaust Manifolds/Downpipes Although any muffler shop will have a flange that will work they are usually "universal fit" and are quite a bit larger in both overall size (sometimes causing clearance problems) and the holes are elongated requiring washers. The original type flange is hard to find, but they were still being made five years ago, don't know if they still are available today. I have a pair of new ones, also nice used ones, contact me if you are interested. David Franchi _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 14 11:14:05 2010 From: Carmods@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 12:28:50 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache I believe I'm safe in saying, that UNF, SAE and ISO thread profile dimensions are the same. There are thread tolerance classes and coatings that effect the fit between nuts, bolts dies and taps. Whitworth Threads Rootes used Whitworth BSF and BA fasteners in its vehicles almost exclusively through the mid-50's. Tiger owners are lucky that they fazed out most of the Whitworth threads by the time Tigers were built, although some exist. Spouses, partners and playmates of those who have purchased older vintage British-made cars often believe that bWhitworth threadsb is code for bYou had a screw loose the day you bought that thingb. .John Logan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 14 11:15:33 2010 From: Howard gentry To: TheoSmit , tiger list Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:43:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache Hi, A 1/2-20 UNF has a 60 degree thread form, rolled or cut thread. Clearance is detirmined by the specified major and minor diameter of the threads themselves. zym The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America. --- On Wed, 7/14/10, Smit, Theo wrote: From: Smit, Theo Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache To: "Carmods@aol.com" , "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Wednesday, July 14, 2010, 10:57 AM Good question! I re-read the various standards (at least as described by Wikipedia) and combined with the Alpine parts reference cited earlier I don't think that these are British thread after all. BSW (British Standard Whitworth) in 1/2" has a 12 thread pitch, while BSF has 16 threads per inch. We know that the chassis bolts are 1/2-20. UNF is spec'ed at 1/2-20 while UNC is 1/2-13. So the question that remains is, are these bolts made with a 60 degree thread profile or not? If they are, are they designed for an interference fit (which might explain why a standard die will remove material from the bolt threads)? As already stated, these bolts have a longer threaded section and shorter grip length (thanks Mayf!) than a standard SAE bolt, so you can't easily go to your local ACE hardware store to buy replacements. Using a thread die to put extra threads on a store bought bolt is dangerous because it causes stress risers at the root of the threads - conventional bolts have the threads rolled into them, which essentially forges the threads into the bolt and strengthens the threaded area. Theo ________________________________________ From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carmods@aol.com [Carmods@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:07 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: Theo, Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread (BSF)? What size are they? John Logan _______________________________________________ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/zymmer4@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 14 13:32:02 2010 From: "rande" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 14:55:51 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust flanges Hi, For anyone with a Ford parts catalogue(book, fiche,etc), I wonder if the down pipe flange is comparable on our cars to one from a '65-67 Mustang, Cougar, Falcon,Cyclone, etc. What diameter are their down pipes for small blocks. And, failing that information, would it benefit someone to bring their exhaust manifold and down pipe to a dealer to match what Ford/Mercury dealers have in stock? I have the right side manifold off. The dimensions for that flange are: two inch downpipe hole the attaching bolt holes are three inches apart, center to center. the attaching holes are 9/16 diameter the actual bolts are 7/16 fine (threaded part)by 1.5" long. If your dealer can get the part number but not the part, try www.greensalescompany.com , an obsolete Ford part source. You can enter the part number to check stock, but you need to call them for price, if they show the part. RB _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 14 14:02:07 2010 From: David or Gary To: rande@thecia.net Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 19:11:15 GMT Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust flanges All small block Fords (until about 1970) use the same flange 2" except the early 221 cu. in. which had a flat welded on flange. Most, I believe all? V8 Ford cars have head pipes made so the flange can't be removed. You can only get the flange with the head pipe assembly. David ------------- Hi, For anyone with a Ford parts catalogue(book, fiche,etc), I wonder if the down pipe flange is comparable on our cars to one from a '65-67 Mustang, Cougar, Falcon,Cyclone, etc. What diameter are their down pipes for small blocks. And, failing that information, would it benefit someone to bring their exhaust manifold and down pipe to a dealer to match what Ford/Mercury dealers have in stock? I have the right side manifold off. The dimensions for that flange are: two inch downpipe hole the attaching bolt holes are three inches apart, center to center. the attaching holes are 9/16 diameter the actual bolts are 7/16 fine (threaded part)by 1.5" long. If your dealer can get the part number but not the part, try www.greensalescompany.com , an obsolete Ford part source. You can enter the part number to check stock, but you need to call them for price, if they show the part. RB _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 14 18:01:05 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: "Smit, Theo" , "Carmods@aol.com" Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 19:19:14 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache Here's a dumb question: Since these bolts are such oddballs in the US, what's to stop people from using a 1/2-20 SAE tap and just installing new Grade 8 SAE 1/2-20 bolts? Just curious. If that's an insane idea, is there a source for suitable and appropriate replacement crossmember bolts anywhere? Thanks. M On 7/14/10 10:57 AM, "Smit, Theo" wrote: > Good question! I re-read the various standards (at least as described by > Wikipedia) and combined with the Alpine parts reference cited earlier I don't > think that these are British thread after all. > > BSW (British Standard Whitworth) in 1/2" has a 12 thread pitch, while BSF has > 16 threads per inch. We know that the chassis bolts are 1/2-20. UNF is spec'ed > at 1/2-20 while UNC is 1/2-13. > > So the question that remains is, are these bolts made with a 60 degree thread > profile or not? If they are, are they designed for an interference fit (which > might explain why a standard die will remove material from the bolt threads)? > > As already stated, these bolts have a longer threaded section and shorter grip > length (thanks Mayf!) than a standard SAE bolt, so you can't easily go to your > local ACE hardware store to buy replacements. Using a thread die to put extra > threads on a store bought bolt is dangerous because it causes stress risers at > the root of the threads - conventional bolts have the threads rolled into > them, which essentially forges the threads into the bolt and strengthens the > threaded area. > > Theo > ________________________________________ > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf > Of Carmods@aol.com [Carmods@aol.com] > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:07 PM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache > > Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: > > they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: > > > > Theo, > > Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread (BSF)? > > What size are they? > > John Logan > _______________________________________________ > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > --- > This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole > use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please > be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or > any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, > please contact the sender and delete all copies. > > Thank you for your cooperation. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 14 20:03:28 2010 From: Jim To: "Would U. Believe" Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 18:09:05 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache I must be missing something...when I go to my local industrial supplier, they only have 2 kinds of 'inch' bolts... UNC and UNF ! All my taps and dies are the same. What's different about SAE?? Or is that a U.S. term for a world standard? I bought new UNF grade 8's for the crossmember... Ran a long tap though... No problem at all...reused those nice thick stock washers though... Also, I don't see a need for those 'long thread' 3/8" UNF bolts for the fulcrum pins... If you reach into the crossmemer, you can feel all that extra thread sticking through the threaded backing plate... Just use shorter bolts with the normal length thread and they will still stick out the back a little... Jim B382000446 Sent from my iPhone On 2010-07-14, at 4:19 PM, "Would U. Believe" wrote: > Here's a dumb question: Since these bolts are such oddballs in the > US, > what's to stop people from using a 1/2-20 SAE tap and just > installing new > Grade 8 SAE 1/2-20 bolts? Just curious. If that's an insane idea, > is there > a source for suitable and appropriate replacement crossmember bolts > anywhere? Thanks. M > > > On 7/14/10 10:57 AM, "Smit, Theo" wrote: > >> Good question! I re-read the various standards (at least as >> described by >> Wikipedia) and combined with the Alpine parts reference cited >> earlier I don't >> think that these are British thread after all. >> >> BSW (British Standard Whitworth) in 1/2" has a 12 thread pitch, >> while BSF has >> 16 threads per inch. We know that the chassis bolts are 1/2-20. UNF >> is spec'ed >> at 1/2-20 while UNC is 1/2-13. >> >> So the question that remains is, are these bolts made with a 60 >> degree thread >> profile or not? If they are, are they designed for an interference >> fit (which >> might explain why a standard die will remove material from the bolt >> threads)? >> >> As already stated, these bolts have a longer threaded section and >> shorter grip >> length (thanks Mayf!) than a standard SAE bolt, so you can't easily >> go to your >> local ACE hardware store to buy replacements. Using a thread die to >> put extra >> threads on a store bought bolt is dangerous because it causes >> stress risers at >> the root of the threads - conventional bolts have the threads >> rolled into >> them, which essentially forges the threads into the bolt and >> strengthens the >> threaded area. >> >> Theo >> ________________________________________ >> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] >> On Behalf >> Of Carmods@aol.com [Carmods@aol.com] >> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:07 PM >> To: tigers@autox.team.net >> Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache >> >> Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit@dynastream.com wrote: >> >> they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same >> as SAE: >> >> >> >> Theo, >> >> Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread (BSF)? >> >> What size are they? >> >> John Logan >> _______________________________________________ >> >> >> --- >> --- >> --- >> -------------------------------------------------------------------- >> --- >> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material >> for the sole >> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended >> recipient, please >> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this >> e-mail or >> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in >> error, >> please contact the sender and delete all copies. >> >> Thank you for your cooperation. >> ___________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Jul 14 20:35:42 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Would U. Believe'" , Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 21:46:00 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache UNF; Unified Fine and UNC; Unified Coarse was established during WWII to be compatible and interchangeable with SAE threads but there are some slight differences between the threads. An SAE 1/2 -20 should go right into those threads without using a tap. If there is a problem running the bolt in from the bottom, run the bolt in from the top Any time I put an SAE tap through a Unified thread I cut metal and the UNF bolt feels a bit loose in those threads. An SAE thread chaser might work OK but I have not tried. I prefer not to cut the original threads more than necessary. I prefer to cut grooves into the UNF bolt threads, making it it's own tap and use it to clear Unified threads. If that is not possible I would take an SAE 1/2-20 bolt and cut grooves into it to make a thread chaser. Yes, UNF taps are available but I have mostly seem them in kits not individually. My notes indicate that the crossmember bolt is 3 1/4" UNF, Auto S - thread length = 1.7", shank length = 1.55" Auto S is the bolt grade, I think S denotes about a grade 8 but I can't find my sheet about that right now. I have purchased many bolt from a Caterpillar dealer but I don't remember if I purchased any crossmember bolts. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2010 7:19 PM To: Smit, Theo; Carmods@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache Here's a dumb question: Since these bolts are such oddballs in the US, what's to stop people from using a 1/2-20 SAE tap and just installing new Grade 8 SAE 1/2-20 bolts? Just curious. If that's an insane idea, is there a source for suitable and appropriate replacement crossmember bolts anywhere? Thanks. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 15 14:24:31 2010 From: Rollright@aol.com To: tigers@Autox.Team.Net Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 15:46:12 EDT Subject: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers Hello, After having four bumpers sitting in the basement for at least 10 years, Gary Fish called up Nuchrome in New Bedford, MA for me. I took over the interaction from there. Bottom line: bumpers to be re chromed in 4 to 6 weeks at $ 250 per bumper. How about a deal on 4 of them? $ 8.00 off each. Some sort of tax they will absorb. So, $ 250. If you are local to CT, MA, NH, and So. ME, they pick up and deliver. Eventually. That saves a lot, it really does.. So, I'll let you know... Jim Armstrong Mk 1A 382002083 LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 15 15:52:33 2010 From: "Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)" To: , Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 17:06:18 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers Jim, That's about right, I just had two fairly clean bumpers and the four over-riders re-chromed for $500. Another $250 covered all the latches, mirror stalk, door handles, cranks, pulls, post covers and badges. I still have the rear tail lights and a few other bits to take over. It sure ain't cheap putting one of these suckers back together! Bugz -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rollright@aol.com Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 3:46 PM To: tigers@Autox.Team.Net Cc: onegonefish@comcast.net; todbrown@roadrunner.com Subject: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers Hello, After having four bumpers sitting in the basement for at least 10 years, Gary Fish called up Nuchrome in New Bedford, MA for me. I took over the interaction from there. Bottom line: bumpers to be re chromed in 4 to 6 weeks at $ 250 per bumper. How about a deal on 4 of them? $ 8.00 off each. Some sort of tax they will absorb. So, $ 250. If you are local to CT, MA, NH, and So. ME, they pick up and deliver. Eventually. That saves a lot, it really does.. So, I'll let you know... Jim Armstrong Mk 1A 382002083 LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mark.rense@ge.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 15 17:19:04 2010 From: "Tiger Man" To: Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 16:37:31 -0600 Subject: Re: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers I've always been curious about how much chroming costs, thanks for letting us know. Does that include all the prep costs? I've heard that the parts have to be looking perfect before they are chromed, or you will see it in the end result. I am assuming then that 40+ year old previously chromed parts need some prep work before hand? So do they still do true 'chroming'? I though that the old process used some nasty chemicals and many places now offer some other finish or process that isn't quite as nasty to be around. Just curious Thanks, Steve > Jim, > That's about right, I just had two fairly clean bumpers and the four > over-riders re-chromed for $500. Another $250 covered all the latches, > mirror stalk, door handles, cranks, pulls, post covers and badges. I > still have the rear tail lights and a few other bits to take over. It > sure ain't cheap putting one of these suckers back together! > > Bugz > > Hello, > > After having four bumpers sitting in the basement for at least 10 years, > Gary Fish called up Nuchrome in New Bedford, MA for me. I took over the > interaction from there. > > Bottom line: bumpers to be re chromed in 4 to 6 weeks at $ 250 per > bumper. > How about a deal on 4 of them? $ 8.00 off each. Some sort of tax they > will absorb. So, $ 250. > > If you are local to CT, MA, NH, and So. ME, they pick up and deliver. > Eventually. That saves a lot, it really does.. > > So, I'll let you know... > > > Jim Armstrong > Mk 1A 382002083 > LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 15 17:49:38 2010 From: "Peter Laurinaitis" To: "Rense, Mark \(GE Indust, ConsInd\)" , Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 18:59:16 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers sounds like a screaming bargain, assuming the quality is there. the shop i used (that tim suddard from classic motorsports used for his tiger) charges like triple that, literally. i tried working them down in price but couldnt get them to budge. i either got robbed or got what i paid for... =) doug jennings says they look good, i havent seen them yet... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)" To: ; Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:06 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers > Jim, > That's about right, I just had two fairly clean bumpers and the four > over-riders re-chromed for $500. Another $250 covered all the latches, > mirror stalk, door handles, cranks, pulls, post covers and badges. I > still have the rear tail lights and a few other bits to take over. It > sure ain't cheap putting one of these suckers back together! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 15 18:51:14 2010 From: michael king To: Tiger Man Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 09:58:35 +1000 Subject: Re: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers On 16 July 2010 08:37, Tiger Man wrote: > > So do they still do true 'chroming'? I though that the old process used > some nasty chemicals and many places now offer some other finish or process > that isn't quite as nasty to be around. > > Just curious > > Thanks, > Steve > Its my understanding that all developed countries have ban the use of the traditional chroming chemicals for OHS and reasons. Apparently this diminished the ability to get as hard a finsh on the chrome and also makes it harder to get a good finsh. I remember reading a good artcile about it ina C&S about 6 years back when they started to phase all the chemicals out. Long and the short of it, chroming is labour intenstive.. you need a very straight well polished pats before you styart plating.. and then the finsh depends hevaily on the amount of finshing and also what base layers they use.. triple platiung chrome can mean several things.. it depends what those 3 layers are.. Apparently lots of the modern repro stuff is of very por quality and needs to be rechromed before use.. the current wire wheels for brit cars and hub caps/bumpers they do for VW's carry a warning they are suitable for summer use only as the quality of the chroming is so low. -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Jul 15 21:48:56 2010 From: michael king To: Tiger Talk List Tiger Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 13:08:14 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] salvaged tiger? For those who havent trawled Norms rootes1 site: http://www.classictiger.com/mudge/pieces/tech1q.htm looks like there might be some rusty parts to put to rest on land: http://theage.drive.com.au/motor-news/great-cars-going-deep-20100715-10btu.html -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 18:08:28 2010 From: "Norman C. Miller" To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 16:20:05 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] IMAGE HELP I'm looking for someone who has a copy of an old CAT Club photo calendar and can get me a high quality scan of the yellow Tiger depicted here. In case you don't recognize the youngsters, that's Steve Sorenson on the left talking to Dan Walters. http://szwaxa.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pGJ9Ue3z-S0_fK-eOrethIi8QB5mKxla_kj2MUTmlSI8kfx3Zz_RePyVeKdWh3ATMiNLtYClMeRqhnG_vdjg_AcpOK57C5RJx/boulware-request.jpg?psid=1 Thanks Norm _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 19:02:00 2010 From: Allan Ballard To: michael king Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 20:15:43 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb I m sorting my stock MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~ 3 decades of storage in a barn. Current focus is on carburation. It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl. Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of bubbly gas in the bottom of the carb. Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the carb to be cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it died with the same symptoms. It acted as it was out of gas then died and would not re-start. I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there and no way it would start. About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I drove it onto the flatbed truck. Does this make any sense to any one? Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS carb? Allan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 19:32:08 2010 From: Theo Smit To: 'Tiger's List' Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 18:40:50 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Alpine bodyshell for sale For anyone that's in dire need of chassis parts, I'm trying to free up some garage space: Thanks, Theo _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 20:04:33 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: "'Allan Ballard'" , "'michael king'" Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 20:29:35 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Rebuild the Autolite 2100. They are great carbs and won't let you down. Duke B382002037, running with a autolite 4100 and doing it very well. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan Ballard Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 7:16 PM To: michael king Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb I m sorting my stock MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~ 3 decades of storage in a barn. Current focus is on carburation. It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl. Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of bubbly gas in the bottom of the carb. Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the carb to be cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it died with the same symptoms. It acted as it was out of gas then died and would not re-start. I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there and no way it would start. About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I drove it onto the flatbed truck. Does this make any sense to any one? Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS carb? Allan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce@kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 20:05:39 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Allan Ballard Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 18:30:38 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Allan, Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms? If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything electrical was "it must be a loose wire" (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations) Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Allan Ballard wrote: > I m sorting my stock MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~ > 3 decades of storage in a barn. > > Current focus is on carburation. > > It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl. > > Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a > restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It > looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of bubbly > gas in the > bottom of the carb. > > Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the > carb to be cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it > died with the same symptoms. It acted as it was out of gas then died and > would not re-start. > > I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the > carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there > and no way it would start. > > About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I drove > it onto the flatbed truck. > > Does this make any sense to any one? > > Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS > carb? > > Allan > ______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 20:05:52 2010 From: Allan Ballard To: Steve Laifman Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 21:35:48 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Fuel pump meaning pumping too much fuel? On Jul 16, 2010, at 9:30 PM, Steve Laifman wrote: > Allan, > > Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms? > > If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything electrical was "it must be a loose wire" > > (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations) > > Steve > > Steve Laifman > Editor > http://TigersUnited.com > > > Allan Ballard wrote: >> >> I m sorting my stock MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~ >> 3 decades of storage in a barn. >> >> Current focus is on carburation. >> >> It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl. >> >> Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a >> restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It >> looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of bubbly >> gas in the >> bottom of the carb. >> >> Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the >> carb to be cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it >> died with the same symptoms. It acted as it was out of gas then died and >> would not re-start. >> >> I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the >> carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there >> and no way it would start. >> >> About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I drove >> it onto the flatbed truck. >> >> Does this make any sense to any one? >> >> Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS >> carb? >> >> Allan >> ______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 20:36:49 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: allanballard@att.net, michael.s.king@gmail.com Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 22:04:49 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Allan, If it's boiling over Holly makes a "heat proof" spacer that goes under the carb. If that is truly what is happening, the spacer will solve the problem. A few yrs. ago on the list someone else reported symptoms similar to yours.....that is stalling while the car was running. This might not be the boiling issue. I would start by searching the archives _http://www.team.net/archive/tigers/_ (http://www.team.net/archive/tigers/) to see what you find. I'm sure someone else can chime in on this. Mark In a message dated 7/16/2010 9:02:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, allanballard@att.net writes: I m sorting my stock MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~ 3 decades of storage in a barn. Current focus is on carburation. It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl. Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of bubbly gas in the bottom of the carb. Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the carb to be cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it died with the same symptoms. It acted as it was out of gas then died and would not re-start. I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there and no way it would start. About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I drove it onto the flatbed truck. Does this make any sense to any one? Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS carb? Allan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 21:03:31 2010 From: CoolVT@aol.com To: slaifman@socal.rr.com, allanballard@att.net Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 22:10:08 EDT Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Steve, That could make sense. If the float was stuck open the pressure in the line could flood the carb even with the car parked. M In a message dated 7/16/2010 10:06:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, slaifman@socal.rr.com writes: Allan, Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms? If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything electrical was "it must be a loose wire" (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations) Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Allan Ballard wrote: > I m sorting my stock MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~ > 3 decades of storage in a barn. > > Current focus is on carburation. > > It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl. > > Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a > restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It > looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of bubbly > gas in the > bottom of the carb. > > Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the > carb to be cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it > died with the same symptoms. It acted as it was out of gas then died and > would not re-start. > > I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the > carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there > and no way it would start. > > About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I drove > it onto the flatbed truck. > > Does this make any sense to any one? > > Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS > carb? > > Allan > ______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 21:03:48 2010 From: "Buck Trippel" To: "Allan Ballard" Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 19:13:09 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Have you checked to see if 1) your needle is "junked up" & sticking? 2) your Float level's OK? 3) your carb's float still floats? Finally, is the fuel simply boiling in the bowl and overflowing the vents into the bore? good luck, Buck ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allan Ballard" To: "Steve Laifman" Cc: Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 6:35 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb > Fuel pump meaning pumping too much fuel? > > > On Jul 16, 2010, at 9:30 PM, Steve Laifman wrote: > >> Allan, >> >> Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms? >> >> If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything > electrical was "it must be a loose wire" >> >> (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations) >> >> Steve >> >> Steve Laifman >> Editor >> http://TigersUnited.com >> >> >> Allan Ballard wrote: >>> >>> I m sorting my stock MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets > after ~ >>> 3 decades of storage in a barn. >>> >>> Current focus is on carburation. >>> >>> It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl. >>> >>> Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper >>> at > a >>> restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It >>> looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of > bubbly >>> gas in the >>> bottom of the carb. >>> >>> Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced >>> the >>> carb to be cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it >>> died with the same symptoms. It acted as it was out of gas then died >>> and >>> would not re-start. >>> >>> I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the >>> carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there >>> and no way it would start. >>> >>> About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I > drove >>> it onto the flatbed truck. >>> >>> Does this make any sense to any one? >>> >>> Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a > POS >>> carb? >>> >>> Allan >>> ______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 21:05:53 2010 From: "Dave Munroe" To: "Allan Ballard" , "Steve Laifman" Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 23:30:02 -0300 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Allan: I had the same problem with my re-built Holley. After way too much time wasted trying to get the carb sorted, I bought an Edelbrock 600 cfm replacement and had the same problem. Eventually I got smart and put a pressure gauge on the fuel line to the carb - it was reading 14 psi. These carbs only need 5 to 6 psi. I got a new fuel pump that makes ~ 6 psi and have lived happily ever after. Everyone has their own favorite carb. A new anything of the proper size is better than a rebuilt old one. Best of luck, Dave Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb > Fuel pump meaning pumping too much fuel? > > > On Jul 16, 2010, at 9:30 PM, Steve Laifman wrote: > >> Allan, >> >> Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms? >> >> If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything > electrical was "it must be a loose wire" >> >> (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations) >> >> Steve _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 21:35:10 2010 From: "csx2282" To: "tigers" Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 19:41:18 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number Hi all, I'm trying to track down the part number and supplier of the original Tiger water pump fans. Perhaps there was more than one fan depending on the year and model? I would be interested in information on all of them. Just to be clear, I'm not looking for an after market replacement or alternatives, but info on the original fans. Thanks, Roland _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 21:35:21 2010 From: "Thomas Witt" To: Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 19:46:54 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb As you said you drove a short 6 miles and there was bubbling gas. If this car sat for 30 years the gas tank may be full of debris. If it is getting past the filter (is there a filter?) you could be having particles not allowing the float to close. This might be the cause of the excess fuel. So, it is either the float bowls overfilling (particles in the needle & seat), overheating ( you need to insulate the carb from the intake with a none heat absorbing spacer or your fuel pressure is too high. Those would be the first things to check. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Jul 16 21:36:58 2010 From: "Hall Motors" To: "'Allan Ballard'" , "'michael king'" Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 21:56:49 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Allan - I had a similar problem (intermittent flooding) with a HiPo Mustang running its original (and rebuilt) Holley 4Bbl. Turned out to be a float that was fuel soaking and sinking. If you didn't drive it for several weeks it would "unsoak". When driven, after a while it would soak and flood. A "new" float (actually a used one) fixed the problem. Brad Hall B3820000609LRXFE -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan Ballard Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 7:16 PM To: michael king Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb I m sorting my stock MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~ 3 decades of storage in a barn. Current focus is on carburation. It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl. Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of bubbly gas in the bottom of the carb. Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the carb to be cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it died with the same symptoms. It acted as it was out of gas then died and would not re-start. I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there and no way it would start. About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I drove it onto the flatbed truck. Does this make any sense to any one? Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS carb? Allan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/hallmotors@cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 03:39:27 2010 From: Allan Ballard To: "Thomas Witt" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 05:15:19 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Thanks everyone, The fuel tanks have been redone; the floats are set correctly but I don't know whether they leak or if anything is sticking. Since the the carb is new (remanufactured) hopefully the needle/seat is ok ...? The carb appears to have two spacers each about 1/2 inch thick but I don't know if either or both are non-heat absorbing---how to tell? There is a filter just prior to the fuel line connecting to the carb. That leaves fuel pressure; makes sense to insert a pressure regulator into the system. The fuel pump is a new reproduction of the factory pump. Allan On Jul 16, 2010, at 10:46 PM, Thomas Witt wrote: > As you said you drove a short 6 miles and there was bubbling gas. If this car sat for 30 years the gas tank may be full of debris. If it is getting past the filter (is there a filter?) you could be having particles not allowing the float to close. This might be the cause of the excess fuel. > > So, it is either the float bowls overfilling (particles in the needle & seat), overheating ( you need to insulate the carb from the intake with a none heat absorbing spacer or your fuel pressure is too high. Those would be the first things to check. > > Tom _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 05:52:21 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'csx2282'" , "'tigers'" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 07:26:07 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number Roland Original fan part number is C4JZ-8600-B; original hub part number is B9ME-8553-A, a 1959 Mercury part. The C4JZ number indicates it is a Ford Industrial Division supplied part. My guess is that it is a Falcon part with the larger center hole. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of csx2282 Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 10:41 PM To: tigers Subject: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number Hi all, I'm trying to track down the part number and supplier of the original Tiger water pump fans. Perhaps there was more than one fan depending on the year and model? I would be interested in information on all of them. Just to be clear, I'm not looking for an after market replacement or alternatives, but info on the original fans. Thanks, Roland _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3009 - Release Date: 07/16/10 06:35:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 07:10:16 2010 From: garywinblad@comcast.net To: 'tigers' Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 12:45:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number Hi Roland, I have one on my Tiger if you want to see it. But like Ron says, the Tiger has a "pushed back" hub so the center hole of the fan is enlarged to 1", don't think Cobras have that. BTW, even though it only has 4 blades, it really pushes a lot more air than aftermarket flex fans, ask me how I know... Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron Fraser To: 'csx2282' , 'tigers' Sent: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:26:07 -0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number Roland Original fan part number is C4JZ-8600-B; original hub part number is B9ME-8553-A, a 1959 Mercury part. The C4JZ number indicates it is a Ford Industrial Division supplied part. My guess is that it is a Falcon part with the larger center hole. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of csx2282 Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 10:41 PM To: tigers Subject: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number Hi all, I'm trying to track down the part number and supplier of the original Tiger water pump fans. Perhaps there was more than one fan depending on the year and model? I would be interested in information on all of them. Just to be clear, I'm not looking for an after market replacement or alternatives, but info on the original fans. Thanks, Roland _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 07:24:07 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Norman C. Miller'" , Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 09:08:37 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] IMAGE HELP Norm That is the 1991 CAT calendar, Jan 1991. Owner and photographer is Michael Boulware, Arcadia, California. Sorry I don't have a way to scan the picture. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Norman C. Miller Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 7:20 PM To: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] IMAGE HELP I'm looking for someone who has a copy of an old CAT Club photo calendar and can get me a high quality scan of the yellow Tiger depicted here. In case you don't recognize the youngsters, that's Steve Sorenson on the left talking to Dan Walters. http://szwaxa.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pGJ9Ue3z-S0_fK-eOrethIi8QB5mKxla_kj2MU TmlSI8kfx3Zz_RePyVeKdWh3ATMiNLtYClMeRqhnG_vdjg_AcpOK57C5RJx/boulware-request .jpg?psid=1 Thanks Norm _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 08:07:51 2010 From: Tod Brown To: tigers@autox.team.net, Allan Ballard Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 09:42:17 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" Carb Allan: I vote for a sticking float. If it has been sitting for that long and you did not clean it out well, it would be remarkable if there were not some ancient residue in there. Tod B382002384LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 08:08:01 2010 From: "wsamouce" To: Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 08:52:52 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] AutoMeter Cobra 8000 Tach complete With some observations from Jim, I put the original needle on the tach and it works great. Check out the finish product - http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/045.jpg Love having the reliability of a modern tach. Paul Breuhan did the silk screening of the auto meter face. Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 08:51:38 2010 From: "Dave Munroe" To: "wsamouce" , Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:28:12 -0300 Subject: Re: [Tigers] AutoMeter Cobra 8000 Tach complete Very impressive work, Duke. And ditto to Paul. Dave Subject: [Tigers] AutoMeter Cobra 8000 Tach complete > With some observations from Jim, I put the original needle on the tach and > it works great. > > Check out the finish product - > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/045.jpg > > Love having the reliability of a modern tach. > > Paul Breuhan did the silk screening of the auto meter face. > > Duke > B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 09:37:43 2010 From: "Norman C. Miller" To: "Kirk Smith" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 08:14:29 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] IMAGE HELP Kirk, Big thanks. I knew someone would have this. Norm At 12:54 AM 7/17/2010, you wrote: >Hi Norm, > >Just got home from work and saw your email. I have that calendar. Do you >still need a scan, or did someone get it to you already?...snip.. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 11:07:12 2010 From: "Mark44124" To: Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 12:43:15 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb I have had a lot of Holleys over the years, I choose to use them as really cool paper weights now. If you need a good rebuild Ford 2100 get hold of this character. I have bought several 2100 and a 4100 from him and they are all good (hint - buy a bigger CFM one like a 1.14 or 1.23 for your Tiger). http://stores.ebay.com/GOTTA-FISH-CARBURETORS It really sounds like fuel boil over, but if it only takes 6 miles of driving from cold start to shut-down, my bet is on either a bad float and/or too much fuel pressure. Good hunting! Bugz _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 11:07:52 2010 From: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" To: "'Allan Ballard'" , "'Thomas Witt'" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:50:23 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Allan, Drive the car for a while then shut it down. Then open the hood and watch to see when and where the fuel is coming in from and pooling on top of the butterflies. It seems to me that if the fuel pressure was way too high you wouldn't be able to drive 6 mi. it would be flooding from the start, or running very rich. I have been helping a friend with his 67 Shelby 350GT with a Paxton blower and the rear floats (Holly) seemed to be sticking (gas everywhere). I removed both bowls didn't see any debris of any kind or sticking, put it back together and it worked fine. Go figure. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan Ballard Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 4:15 AM To: Thomas Witt Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Thanks everyone, The fuel tanks have been redone; the floats are set correctly but I don't know whether they leak or if anything is sticking. Since the the carb is new (remanufactured) hopefully the needle/seat is ok ...? The carb appears to have two spacers each about 1/2 inch thick but I don't know if either or both are non-heat absorbing---how to tell? There is a filter just prior to the fuel line connecting to the carb. That leaves fuel pressure; makes sense to insert a pressure regulator into the system. The fuel pump is a new reproduction of the factory pump. Allan On Jul 16, 2010, at 10:46 PM, Thomas Witt wrote: > As you said you drove a short 6 miles and there was bubbling gas. If this car sat for 30 years the gas tank may be full of debris. If it is getting past the filter (is there a filter?) you could be having particles not allowing the float to close. This might be the cause of the excess fuel. > > So, it is either the float bowls overfilling (particles in the needle & seat), overheating ( you need to insulate the carb from the intake with a none heat absorbing spacer or your fuel pressure is too high. Those would be the first things to check. > > Tom _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 12:26:23 2010 From: Owain Lloyd To: Allan Ballard Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 19:00:37 +0100 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb i had issues with slowly sinking floats too. its hard to reproduce but at about 12 bucks for a new float its not worth guessing. before installing a regulator, fuel pressure should be easy to just measure with one of those cheap fluid filled mechanical gauges that go under the bonnet. take it out when you're done. you need a gauge to set/check the regulator anyhow. i keep a mechanical gauge on a long line that can come into the interior in my tool chest for testing/diagnosis. actually two - one for carbs and one higher range one for injection. On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Allan Ballard wrote: > Thanks everyone, > > The fuel tanks have been redone; the floats are set correctly but I don't > know > whether they leak or if anything is > sticking. > > Since the the carb is new (remanufactured) hopefully the needle/seat is ok > ...? > > The carb appears to have two spacers each about 1/2 inch thick but I don't > know if either or both are non-heat absorbing---how > to tell? > > There is a filter just prior to the fuel line connecting to the carb. > > That leaves fuel pressure; makes sense to insert a pressure regulator into > the > system. The fuel pump is a new reproduction of > the factory pump. > > Allan > > > > On Jul 16, 2010, at 10:46 PM, Thomas Witt wrote: > > > As you said you drove a short 6 miles and there was bubbling gas. If > this > car sat for 30 years the gas tank may be full of debris. If it is getting > past the filter (is there a filter?) you could be having particles not > allowing the float to close. This might be the cause of the excess fuel. > > > > So, it is either the float bowls overfilling (particles in the needle & > seat), overheating ( you need to insulate the carb from the intake with a > none > heat absorbing spacer or your fuel pressure is too high. Those would be > the > first things to check. > > > > Tom _______________________________________________ > > Tigers@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 13:09:28 2010 From: Allan Ballard To: owain.lloyd@gmail.com Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 14:36:40 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Thanks everyone. I had planned to install a 4 bbl on a F4B manifold this winter but since the Holly 2 bbl became a problem, I moved up the 4 bbl installation to...next week. I went by Summit Racing and picked up an Eldebrock Performance Carb, model 1404 with manual choke and delivers 500 cfm. The carb is new not remanufactured so it ought to work, right? I am also moving the coil from the factory location on top of the intake manifold near the gas line, to a cooler and safer location near the generator. Thanks again for your help, Allan On Jul 17, 2010, at 2:00 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote: > i had issues with slowly sinking floats too. its hard to reproduce but at about 12 bucks for a new float its not worth guessing. > > before installing a regulator, fuel pressure should be easy to just measure with one of those cheap fluid filled mechanical gauges that go under the bonnet. take it out when you're done. you need a gauge to set/check the regulator anyhow. i keep a mechanical gauge on a long line that can come into the interior in my tool chest for testing/diagnosis. actually two - one for carbs and one higher range one for injection. > > On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Allan Ballard wrote: > Thanks everyone, > > The fuel tanks have been redone; the floats are set correctly but I don't know > whether they leak or if anything is > sticking. > > Since the the carb is new (remanufactured) hopefully the needle/seat is ok > ...? > > The carb appears to have two spacers each about 1/2 inch thick but I don't > know if either or both are non-heat absorbing---how > to tell? > > There is a filter just prior to the fuel line connecting to the carb. > > That leaves fuel pressure; makes sense to insert a pressure regulator into the > system. The fuel pump is a new reproduction of > the factory pump. > > Allan > > > > On Jul 16, 2010, at 10:46 PM, Thomas Witt wrote: > > > As you said you drove a short 6 miles and there was bubbling gas. If this > car sat for 30 years the gas tank may be full of debris. If it is getting > past the filter (is there a filter?) you could be having particles not > allowing the float to close. This might be the cause of the excess fuel. > > > > So, it is either the float bowls overfilling (particles in the needle & > seat), overheating ( you need to insulate the carb from the intake with a none > heat absorbing spacer or your fuel pressure is too high. Those would be the > first things to check. > > > > Tom _______________________________________________ > > Tigers@autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard@att.net > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 16:51:05 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: Allan Ballard Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 15:26:36 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Allan, If the carb floats are sticking, or not shutting off when back-pressure is sensed by the fuel pump, it may starve the engine out, and leave an un-purged residue of gas. I don't exactly understand what you mean by "a pool" of gas "inside the throat?" Steve With an F4B and quad 465 CFM Holley. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Allan Ballard wrote: > Fuel pump meaning pumping too much fuel? > > > On Jul 16, 2010, at 9:30 PM, Steve Laifman wrote: > >> Allan, >> >> Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms? >> >> If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything >> electrical was "it must be a loose wire" >> >> (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations) >> >> Steve >> >> Steve Laifman >> >> Editor >> >> http://TigersUnited.com >> >> >> >> Allan Ballard wrote: >>> I m sorting my stock MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~ >>> 3 decades of storage in a barn. >>> >>> Current focus is on carburation. >>> <====== snip ==========> _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 17:08:01 2010 From: Allan Ballard To: Steve Laifman Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 18:49:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Steve, Sorry if I used less than the best terminology... :) First let me say the fuel tanks have been professionally redone, and the Holly is a new carb with less than 20 miles on it. I think the fuel system is pristine or close to it. Between the Holly and the intake manifold are two metal spacers, each about 1.2 inch thick. The fuel pump is a new re-pro from Classic Sunbeam, mounted in the stock location. To my knowledge, the fuel line remains in the factory location. It has a filter just before the carb. ---With the air filter housing off, I simply looked down into the carb. At the bottom of the carb was a pool of fuel that was bubbling. A small minnow could swim in such a pool if it was water. I assume the "bubbling" in reality was "boiling.' The pool developed in two different circumstances. First, while the car was parked after a run, and I was enjoying a restaurant meal. I got the engine cranked after much effort, but 2 blocks later -- pool of gas again and that was that. Had to call triple A. The repair shop blamed the hot air choke mechanism, and replaced that part. Shop then said car is ready and indeed it fired up and an ran great...for about 6 miles. Then it acted as if it was out of gas and died (had half a tank of gas). I pushed it off the road, removed the air filter housing and...gas had pooled again just as before. After half an hour or so, I got it cranked and cancelled the tow. Big mistake as it went a block then died again, also with the gas pooling in the carb. About that time I remembered cursing remanufactured Holly carbs back in the day and decided to replace it with the F4B intake and a 4bbl carb to match...Summit Racing had just what I need...car is in the shop for an installation next week. Normally I would do this myself but am recovering from a surgery and must not use the left arm for a few more weeks... Allan : http://s826.photobucket.com/albums/zz184/allanballard/Sunbeam%20Tiger%20Mk1a/ stock 1966 Mk1a Tiger On Jul 17, 2010, at 6:26 PM, Steve Laifman wrote: > Allan, > > If the carb floats are sticking, or not shutting off when back-pressure is sensed by the fuel pump, it may starve the engine out, and leave an un-purged residue of gas. > > I don't exactly understand what you mean by "a pool" of gas "inside the throat?" > > Steve > > With an F4B and quad 465 CFM Holley. > > Steve > > Steve Laifman > Editor > http://TigersUnited.com > > > Allan Ballard wrote: >> >> Fuel pump meaning pumping too much fuel? >> >> >> On Jul 16, 2010, at 9:30 PM, Steve Laifman wrote: >> >>> Allan, >>> >>> Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms? >>> >>> If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything electrical was "it must be a loose wire" >>> >>> (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations) >>> >>> Steve >>> >>> Steve Laifman >>> Editor >>> http://TigersUnited.com >>> >>> >>> Allan Ballard wrote: >>>> >>>> I m sorting my stock MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~ >>>> 3 decades of storage in a barn. >>>> >>>> Current focus is on carburation. >>>> > > <====== snip ==========> _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 18:08:46 2010 From: "John Stithem" To: Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 16:42:18 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 326 If you have an aftermarket fuel pump, you may need to either adjust the pressure down or put a fuel pressure regulator in line. If the fuel pressure is too high it will overflow the float bowls flood the carb. John Message: 2 Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 20:15:43 -0400 From: Allan Ballard Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb I m sorting my stock MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~ 3 decades of storage in a barn. Current focus is on carburation. It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl. Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of bubbly gas in the bottom of the carb. Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the carb to be cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it died with the same symptoms. It acted as it was out of gas then died and would not re-start. I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there and no way it would start. About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I drove it onto the flatbed truck. Does this make any sense to any one? Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS carb? Allan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Jul 17 19:36:38 2010 From: Marc James Small To: Allan Ballard , Steve Laifman Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 21:20:06 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb At 06:49 PM 7/17/2010, Allan Ballard wrote: >To my knowledge, the fuel line remains in the factory location. > Has the fuel line been replaced? Marc msmall@aya.yale.edu Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 18 01:35:06 2010 From: Allan Ballard To: Marc James Small Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 03:19:18 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb no... On Jul 17, 2010, at 9:20 PM, Marc James Small wrote: > At 06:49 PM 7/17/2010, Allan Ballard wrote: > > >To my knowledge, the fuel line remains in the factory location. > > > > Has the fuel line been replaced? > > Marc > > > msmall@aya.yale.edu > Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir! _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 18 06:34:08 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Allan Ballard , Marc James Small Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 08:12:08 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Incidentally... When installing the 289 engine, I had my first good look at my fuel line. All the metal pipes look good and all the rubber hoses were new. Or so I thought. I was truly shocked to find a 3.5 to 4 inch length of really ratty, hardened, cloth covered fuel hose with the original double wire hose bands on it. I think this was a factory bit. Just moving the fuel line downward caused this to-this-point-unknown bit of fuel hose to crack. It would certainly have leaked if I had not replaced it. This piece of hose was just aft of the starter and conjoins two metal pipes. Just FYI. M On 7/18/10 3:19 AM, "Allan Ballard" wrote: > no... > > > On Jul 17, 2010, at 9:20 PM, Marc James Small wrote: > >> At 06:49 PM 7/17/2010, Allan Ballard wrote: >> >>> To my knowledge, the fuel line remains in the factory location. >>> >> >> Has the fuel line been replaced? >> >> Marc >> >> >> msmall@aya.yale.edu >> Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir! > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous@verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 18 08:50:36 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Would U. Believe'" Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 10:34:13 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb M Yes, that is the factory hose and clamps. It does get exposed to heat cycles and weather so it is something everyone should inspect on a regular basis as should all the rubber hoses. If you still have that hose and clamps about; I would like to see a picture. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 8:12 AM To: Allan Ballard; Marc James Small Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Incidentally... When installing the 289 engine, I had my first good look at my fuel line. All the metal pipes look good and all the rubber hoses were new. Or so I thought. I was truly shocked to find a 3.5 to 4 inch length of really ratty, hardened, cloth covered fuel hose with the original double wire hose bands on it. I think this was a factory bit. Just moving the fuel line downward caused this to-this-point-unknown bit of fuel hose to crack. It would certainly have leaked if I had not replaced it. This piece of hose was just aft of the starter and conjoins two metal pipes. Just FYI. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 18 13:02:51 2010 From: Steve Laifman To: "Would U. Believe" Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 11:47:13 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Thanks for your post, Mc Dangerous (M), and Allan, I remembered that I, too, had some fiddling to do with the F4B/Holley installation. There was no tube on the carburettor to a attach to the distributer vacuum advance port. The available gaskets, with such a port, would stick the air filter through the LAT hood. This wouldn't influence those that replaced the distributor with one that does not have vacuum advance. I wanted it "stock" but put the "Ignitor" kit in and had the advance curve tuned to the car with spring replacement. So, I took the easiest approach possible. I replaced the carburettor butterfly lower unit with a new replacement part that did have a vacuum port. No hood banging, and easy adaption. The thinnest composite gaskets with a vacuum port I could find were still too thick. While then, a carb parts source would still have new pieces. Now, they probably have used pieces. Watch the shaft wear on used units. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Would U. Believe wrote: > Allan, > > Bottom line up front: I would suggest you find and buy a Mustang Boss 302 > phenolic carburetor spacer (or any other thin phenolic spacer) with a vacuum > port and try that. Here's why... > > When I adopted my Tiger, it had a very heavy cast iron Ford four barrel > intake manifold and a Holley 600CFM carburetor on it. Sandwiched between > these parts was a one inch thick aluminum spacer with a vacuum port. One of > the first things I did was to change over to an F4B and a 465 CFM > carburetor. Immediately, I noticed was that with the F4B being much taller > than the Ford intake, the carburetor would not fit under the hood with the > one-inch spacer. So I eliminated the carb spacer. You guessed it...the > result was that I had the very same symptoms as the ones you describe. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 18 15:30:25 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Steve Laifman Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 17:30:50 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Steve, I like to remain as stock as possible too. Interestingly, the 465 CFM carb I bought last year has a vacuum port for the distributor advance built into the side just forward of the automatic heat activated choke. It also has a hot air tube that runs from the right hand exhaust manifold to the carburetor for the automatic choke. The port in the phenolic spacer is used for...I can9t remember off the top of my head! Anyway, I will be happy when I9ve finalized the installation of the 289 and get this thing cranked over. I plan to crank it with no gas or spark just to get the oil pressure up and oil well distributed before I can finally start it. As a short cut, I9ve temporarily installed the old generator so that I can have a little positive reinforcement and get the engine started. I can9t bear the thought of re-wiring this thing for the alternator. I had a hiccup yesterday with an exhaust manifold I bought from a fellow Lister. One of the 3ears2 where a stud or bolt goes just cracked off! This forced me to lose a bunch of time to uninstall it and use another one temporarily. I9ll have to find a replacement manifold (right hand) somewhere... What a bummer! Maybe the guy has another one for me. Cheers to everyone. M On 7/18/10 2:47 PM, "Steve Laifman" wrote: > Thanks for your post, Mc Dangerous (M), and Allan, > > I remembered that I, too, had some fiddling to do with the F4B/Holley > installation. There was no tube on the carburettor to a attach to the > distributer vacuum advance port. The available gaskets, with such a port, > would stick the air filter through the LAT hood. > > This wouldn't influence those that replaced the distributor with one that > does not have vacuum advance. I wanted it "stock" but put the "Ignitor" kit > in and had the advance curve tuned to the car with spring replacement. > > So, I took the easiest approach possible. I replaced the carburettor butterfly > lower unit with a new replacement part that did have a vacuum port. > > No hood banging, and easy adaption. The thinnest composite gaskets with a > vacuum port I could find were still too thick. > > While then, a carb parts source would still have new pieces. Now, they > probably have used pieces. Watch the shaft wear on used units. > > Steve > > Steve Laifman > > Editor > > http://TigersUnited.com > > > Would U. Believe wrote: >> >> Allan, >> >> Bottom line up front: I would suggest you find and buy a Mustang Boss 302 >> phenolic carburetor spacer (or any other thin phenolic spacer) with a vacuum >> port and try that. Here's why... >> >> When I adopted my Tiger, it had a very heavy cast iron Ford four barrel >> intake manifold and a Holley 600CFM carburetor on it. Sandwiched between >> these parts was a one inch thick aluminum spacer with a vacuum port. One of >> the first things I did was to change over to an F4B and a 465 CFM >> carburetor. Immediately, I noticed was that with the F4B being much taller >> than the Ford intake, the carburetor would not fit under the hood with the >> one-inch spacer. So I eliminated the carb spacer. You guessed it...the >> result was that I had the very same symptoms as the ones you describe. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 18 16:43:28 2010 From: "Dan Eiland" To: "Tiger List" , "Alpine List" Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 16:41:07 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Test Message I'm in the process of moving from my old computer, built in the times of Moses, to a newer computer built more recently. I'm trying to move my address book from my old computer to my new computer and set up new folders for my car lists. Just wondering if my emails are going through? I'm receiving just not sure if I'm sending yet. Dan Eiland El Paso, TX _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 18 18:26:40 2010 From: michael king To: Tiger Talk List Tiger Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 10:19:59 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] B9471586LRXFE Does anyone know anything about car B9471586LRXFE, it may have been owned by Rich Tuttle of New Jersey in mid 2000's? Any history before or after would be appreciated. -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 18 18:27:52 2010 From: "Stu Brennan" To: Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 20:28:40 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] TE/AE United Tech Sessions Hi Gang: We are looking for tech session presenters for the Tigers East/Alpines East United in Rockland, Maine this October. Sorry to bomb the list, but so far requests in our newsletter and on our forum have not turned up many volunteers. Here's you chance to impress your friends with your expertise, show off that clever little trick you discovered, and enjoy that warm feeling you get when you know you have help others. All we need is a 10 or 15 minute presentation, which is not at all as fearsome as is sounds. We'll have a LCD projector available, and may even have room to bring a car inside for a quick demo. We also may assemble a panel of experts for a question and answer session, volunteers needed here, too. So Step Up, TE/AE! United 2010 Needs You! Contact me with your generous offers of assistance. Stu Brennan stubrennan@comcast.net Tech Session Coordinator United 2010 _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 18 18:55:48 2010 From: "Would U. Believe" To: Steve Laifman Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 20:55:34 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Oh, I think the vacuum port in the phenolic spacer under the carb goes to the PCV valve on the right valve cover... On 7/18/10 2:47 PM, "Steve Laifman" wrote: > Thanks for your post, Mc Dangerous (M), and Allan, > > I remembered that I, too, had some fiddling to do with the F4B/Holley > installation. There was no tube on the carburettor to a attach to the > distributer vacuum advance port. The available gaskets, with such a port, > would stick the air filter through the LAT hood. > > This wouldn't influence those that replaced the distributor with one that > does not have vacuum advance. I wanted it "stock" but put the "Ignitor" kit > in and had the advance curve tuned to the car with spring replacement. > > So, I took the easiest approach possible. I replaced the carburettor butterfly > lower unit with a new replacement part that did have a vacuum port. > > No hood banging, and easy adaption. The thinnest composite gaskets with a > vacuum port I could find were still too thick. > > While then, a carb parts source would still have new pieces. Now, they > probably have used pieces. Watch the shaft wear on used units. > > Steve > > Steve Laifman > > Editor > > http://TigersUnited.com > > > Would U. Believe wrote: >> >> Allan, >> >> Bottom line up front: I would suggest you find and buy a Mustang Boss 302 >> phenolic carburetor spacer (or any other thin phenolic spacer) with a vacuum >> port and try that. Here's why... >> >> When I adopted my Tiger, it had a very heavy cast iron Ford four barrel >> intake manifold and a Holley 600CFM carburetor on it. Sandwiched between >> these parts was a one inch thick aluminum spacer with a vacuum port. One of >> the first things I did was to change over to an F4B and a 465 CFM >> carburetor. Immediately, I noticed was that with the F4B being much taller >> than the Ford intake, the carburetor would not fit under the hood with the >> one-inch spacer. So I eliminated the carb spacer. You guessed it...the >> result was that I had the very same symptoms as the ones you describe. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Jul 18 19:10:59 2010 From: " Ron Fraser" To: "'Would U. Believe'" Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 21:07:05 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb M Port in the phenolic spacer, must be a Boss 302 part, is for the PCV hose. Converting to an alternator is not that hard unless you are going for the MK II stock look which would really require buying a MK II wire harness and the correct relays and parts. I did write up an article "Alternator conversions for Dummies" and I am a dummy when it come to many electrical things. The wiring will look stock for a MK I but with an alternator. Cast Iron exhaust manifolds can be welded. I had to clean an clear the threads in the manifold then made a brass bolt to put in the threads and welded the crack with cast iron welding rod. The hard part was finding a welding supply shop that had cast iron welding rod in stock that day. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Would U. Believe Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 5:31 PM To: Steve Laifman Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Steve, I like to remain as stock as possible too. Interestingly, the 465 CFM carb I bought last year has a vacuum port for the distributor advance built into the side just forward of the automatic heat activated choke. It also has a hot air tube that runs from the right hand exhaust manifold to the carburetor for the automatic choke. The port in the phenolic spacer is used for...I can9t remember off the top of my head! Anyway, I will be happy when I9ve finalized the installation of the 289 and get this thing cranked over. I plan to crank it with no gas or spark just to get the oil pressure up and oil well distributed before I can finally start it. As a short cut, I9ve temporarily installed the old generator so that I can have a little positive reinforcement and get the engine started. I can9t bear the thought of re-wiring this thing for the alternator. I had a hiccup yesterday with an exhaust manifold I bought from a fellow Lister. One of the 3ears2 where a stud or bolt goes just cracked off! This forced me to lose a bunch of time to uninstall it and use another one temporarily. I9ll have to find a replacement manifold (right hand) somewhere... What a bummer! Maybe the guy has another one for me. Cheers to everyone. M _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 06:45:09 2010 From: Allan Ballard To: rfraser@bluefrog.com Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 08:37:18 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid I have my servo off the car--it's being mailed to a rebuilder. I see that the starter solenoid is mounted *beneath* the servo... Once the booster goes back on...when/if the solenoid fails the servo will have to be removed in order to replace the solenoid. Having to open the brake lines to do an emergency roadside solenoid repair is not the best idea. So I'm thinking of relocating the solenoid---but to where? Where is the "best" location? Perhaps in the firewall to chassis corner on the driver's side similar to the Alpine? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 06:59:30 2010 From: Tom Parker To: Allan Ballard Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 08:56:49 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid Allan, You can replace the solenoid without having to remove the servo. I've done it; it's a bit tight but not difficult at all. On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 8:37 AM, Allan Ballard wrote: > I have my servo off the car--it's being mailed to a rebuilder. > > I see that the starter solenoid is mounted *beneath* the servo... > > Once the booster goes back on...when/if the solenoid fails the servo will > have to be removed in order to replace the solenoid. > > Having to open the brake lines to do an emergency roadside solenoid repair > is > not the best idea. > > So I'm thinking of relocating the solenoid---but to where? > > Where is the "best" location? > > Perhaps in the firewall to chassis corner on the driver's side similar to > the > Alpine? > _______________________________________________ > Tigers@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 09:30:59 2010 From: Rob To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 10:22:18 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Tigers] Need a part _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 10:15:30 2010 From: "Smit, Theo" To: Rob , "tigers@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 11:13:25 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Need a part I've got some. Can you be more specific? > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rob > Sent: July 19, 2010 9:22 AM > To: tigers@autox.team.net > Cc: tigers@autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Need a part > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 11:17:18 2010 From: "Jerry & Maureen \(Mo\)" To: "'Allan Ballard'" , Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 12:14:40 -0500 Subject: Re: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid Go out and buy a high quality solenoid (Blue Streak by Standard is a good one) and put it in before you get the servo back. They usually last for many many years anyway. Like Tom said it is possible to change one out with the servo in. One suggestion I would have is to replace the #4 battey cable with #2 cable it will allow far more current to the starter. I think I bought 15 ft of it when I did mine (#2 welding cable). Be sure to use the #2 size for EVERYTHING (batt to solenoid, solenoid to starter, and engine to frame and of course batt to ground). It makes a big difference. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan Ballard Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 7:37 AM To: rfraser@bluefrog.com Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid I have my servo off the car--it's being mailed to a rebuilder. I see that the starter solenoid is mounted *beneath* the servo... Once the booster goes back on...when/if the solenoid fails the servo will have to be removed in order to replace the solenoid. Having to open the brake lines to do an emergency roadside solenoid repair is not the best idea. So I'm thinking of relocating the solenoid---but to where? Where is the "best" location? Perhaps in the firewall to chassis corner on the driver's side similar to the Alpine? _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 11:46:57 2010 From: "Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)" To: "Allan Ballard" Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 13:40:54 -0400 Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Allan, The "little" Edelbrock is a great choice for a mild 260/289. I have had a 1403 (electric choke version) on one of my cars for seven years without issues. I wound up changing the needle and spring combination on the primaries and one step smaller jets in the secondaries to lean it out slightly. Your engine may/will have different needs, especially if you have tubular headers and a lumpy cam. I like them so much I just bought a 1406 (600 CFM Electric choke) carb for my stroker project. Buy the tuning calibration kit (part # 1486), it has all you need to get the mixture dialed in. The stock SU fuel pump is marginal for this size carb, I could drain the bowls on a hard third/fourth gear pull. I switched to a Holley Red Head fuel pump and that cured the delivery issue. Be sure to carefully check your stack-up height with your new manifold, some engine mounts are taller than others and with a F4B in place your air cleaner might be interfering with the hood. Swipe some Playdoh from the brat next door, put a ball of it onto the air cleaner and carefully close your hood. You need a minimum of 1/4" clearance, more is better. I had to go to a flathead screw for my air cleaner to gain enough room. Have fun, go fast! Bugz -----Original Message----- From: Allan Ballard Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 2:37 PM To: owain.lloyd@gmail.com Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb Thanks everyone. I had planned to install a 4 bbl on a F4B manifold this winter but since the Holly 2 bbl became a problem, I moved up the 4 bbl installation to...next week. I went by Summit Racing and picked up an Eldebrock Performance Carb, model 1404 with manual choke and delivers 500 cfm. The carb is new not remanufactured so it ought to work, right? I am also moving the coil from the factory location on top of the intake manifold near the gas line, to a cooler and safer location near the generator. Thanks again for your help, Allan _______________________________________________ Tigers@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Jul 19 12:01:06 2010 From: drmayf To: "Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)" Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 10:57:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [Tigers]